
From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Oct 26 10:42:37 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:42:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Aaryn  Olsson <aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] test

Test message. Please ignore ;-)  




From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Oct 26 16:06:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:00:13 -0700
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From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Queen Palm Care

It is also available on line
<http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf>


>From: RodMcQ6@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:03:32 EDT
>Subject: Queen Palm Care
>To: aokayservices@msn.com
>CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>
>
>U of A Extension has available an excellent bulletin on palm tree care
>available for only $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040.
>Rod


Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/


From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Oct 26 16:06:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:31:50 -0700
To: djmm2@juno.com
From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
In-Reply-To: <199910260432.VAA05962@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] What to Plant Now?

Check out these resources available on the web:

Timely Tips for October
<http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/oct.htm>

Vegetable Planting Calendar
<http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf>

Flower Planting Guide
<http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf>

Flower Planting Table
<http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100table.pdf>

Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs 
in an Arid Climate
<http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm>

In October:
Plant Seeds
           Beets, Bok Choy, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese 
Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard,
           Collard Greens, Endive, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce (Head & Leaf), 
Leeks, Mustard, Onions (Bulb & Green),
           Parsnips, Peas, Radishes, Rutabagas, Spinach, Turnips

Plant Transplants
           Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Cabbage, Chinese Cabbage, 
Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Garlic, Kohlrabi, Lettuce
           (Head & Leaf)



At 09:32 PM 10/25/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>What kind of seeds can I sow now for a vegetable garden?  I planted some 
>tomato plants the first week of Oct. Is that too late? Or can I expect to 
>get some tomatoes before frost?  They are EARLY GIRL.  Is it too late to 
>plant cucumbers or squash now?
>Also, what flower seeds can I sow now?  Are there any annuals that will 
>take a frost and still look good?  I could get plants from a nursery 
>instead of starting seeds if it is too late.



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Oct 26 16:36:23 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 16:38:44 -0700
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] New EMAIL list management system for arid_gardener

Greetings!

Thanks to the help of the guys at the University of Arizona ECAT lab we 
have been able to upgrade the system used to manage this email list for the 
Arid Gardeners.  We converted from 'Majordomo" to "Mailman" which will give 
you much more control over your participation in the list.  If you have any 
questions about the list please contact Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>

Lucy

Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/


From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Oct 26 21:03:45 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower Seeds

The following flower seeds can be planted in Nov:

African daisy, ageratum, asters, Baby's breath, black-eyed Susan, calendula, 
Clarkia, bachelor buttons, flax (both blue and red), hollyhocks, larkspur, 
lupine, poppies (California, Iceland and Shirley), snapdragon, stock, sweet 
peas, and yarrow.  There are quite a few others, but these are probably the 
ones you recognize.  When you buy the seed, check the packets and see at what 
temperature each seed germinates.  Plant the ones that need the highest 
germination temperature first.

Val


From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Oct 27 13:24:13 1999
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From: DIXIEDAWNH@aol.com
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: CALL FOR EXHIBITORS - SW Region Community and School/Youth
 Gardening Conf...

Leslie,
I need to confess that I got the two conferences confused.  I glanced at this 
e mail quickly and assumed that it was the MG conference (which is of course 
in Oct.)  My speed reading skills certainly do need to be improved.

Do you need presenters at this one and tell me more about ehibitors.  

The e mail you recently sent about the "great divide" was for this one. Right?

Wow, talk about confusion.  Hello brain. Are you still in there?To many irons 
in the fire here.

 Is there a program or schedule or any info out on this conference?
Dixie


From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Oct 28 14:54:54 1999
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From: "April Bourie" <marketing@tohonochulpark.org>
To: <Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:52:19 -0700
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Please note new email address

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Please note that Tohono Chul Park has a new web site and email address.

The Web Site address is: www.tohonochulpark.org, and the new email =
address is:
general@tohonochulpark.org.

Thanks!
April Bourie
Marketing and Communications Director

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Please note that Tohono Chul Park =
has a new web=20
site and email address.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The Web Site address is: <A=20
href=3D"http://www.tohonochulpark.org">www.tohonochulpark.org</A>, and =
the new=20
email address is:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:general@tohonochulpark.org">general@tohonochulpark.org</A>=
.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>April Bourie</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Marketing and Communications=20
Director</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 10:45:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:43:11 -0700
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus in Zone 8

I don't believe I saw a response to your question yet, and so apologize if I duplicate someone else's answer.

If you are not in Maricopa County, your best bet is to contact the Cooperative Extension in your county for specific information on citrus in your
climate zone. By year 3-4 most citrus is producing in the low desert (zone 9), barring  unfavorable water, fertilization, climate conditions or
unresolved pest problems. You might be interested in a publication called Citrus Trees in the Home Garden (publication#8464) which discusses frost
protection as well as cultivation. Send $1 to:

                                            Home Horticulture Publications
                                    University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
                                            4341 E. Broadway Road
                                              Phoenix, AZ 85040

Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

beckbabe@webtv.net wrote:

> I have an orange tree about 5 years old when do you think it will produce fruit? And how would you keep it from freezing in winter I am in zone 8.



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 10:55:10 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Software for Landscape Designing

Manfred,

The University of Arizona has software that focuses on desert plants. Check out:
    http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/press.htm#CD

For a piece of software that does everything including a purchase order for the plants involved in the design, I would recommend looking over the products available from American Nurseryman Publishing Company. A
catalog is available (PN800-621-5727) or check out the website (www.amerinursery.com).

Other possibilities are the American Horticultural Society (800-777-7931) and National Gardening Association (800-lets-gro). I don't have websites handy, but would be surprised if they were not online, too.

Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

helspermc@mindspring.com wrote:

> I am looking for software packages that will allow me to design landscaping ,inclusive of the usage of desert plants and cacti. The software should draw plans and produce a list of items used with associated costs.
> Pls. let me know of your recommendations and sources for aquisition.
> Thanks,  Manfred Helsper



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 11:27:05 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Conadria Figs

Our publication MC-23 entitled Home Grown Figs, can be ordered for $1
from:
                                              Home Horticulture
Publications
                                        University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
                                            4341 E. Broadway Road
                                              Phoenix, AZ 85040

Figs are fast and vigorous growers in our area. I'm not familiar with
the specific growth habit of the conadria, which is supposed to
be good in hot areas, but figs will reach 15-30' high and wide depending
on care, pruning, etc.

Hope this helps.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

yardnymph@aol.com wrote:

> Just purchased a conadria fig tree.  Can you give me info on planting, fertilizing, etc... How big can I expect the tree to grow?


From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 11:32:31 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees for Maricopa County

While you've mentioned  the desire for 'leafy trees' but there are other
considerations to evaluate: size, proximity to power lines, if you would
like a low water use tree, whether you want a tree that is green all
year round (but nonconiferous) or if you would accept a deciduous tree,
exposure, etc.

I would suggest two of our publications:  MC-13 Trees for Maricopa
County and MC-33 Drought resistant trees for Maricopa County.

These are available for $1 each by writing to:
      Home Horticulture Publications
      University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
      4341 E. Broadway Road
      Phoenix, AZ 85040

One of our horticultural newsletters has a general list of potential
tree problems.

Higher maintenance trees are eucalyptus, palms, olives, chinese elm,
mesquite(certain varieties require lots of pruning so if in a heavily
trafficked area, they'll need a lot of grooming).

They're so TALL! silk oak, eucalyptus, palms, aleppo pines.

Chlorosis or Disease potential: silk oak, elms, eucalyptus, citrus,
bottle trees, queen palms, ornamental pears.

Litter problems or seasonal nuisance: eucalyptus, jacaranda, yellow
oleander, carob, orchid, olive, pine, citrus, palms, mesquite, mulberry,
silk oak

Allergens: olive, african sumac, mulberry

Damage causing roots: cottonwood, mulberry, chamel ash, silk oak,
chniese elm, aleppo pine.

Hope this helps!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener


gwoodside@uswest.net wrote:

> I have three huge pine trees in my back yard
> that I would like to replace with leafy type
> shade trees.  What is the best type that can
> withstand our summers and are fairly low
> maintenance?


From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 11:42:34 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 11:39:24 -0700
From: "Linda A. Guy" <laguy2@primenet.com>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Umbrella Plant Control

The only way I know to control this plant is to periodically dig out the plant. Over time, the centers will become well overgrown.
You will want to dig this out and replant with the smaller divisions taken from the perimeter of the plant. I would be afraid that
an herbicide would impact the whole plant.

One trick, which I use on perennial herbs that tend to run rampant across my beds, is to sink a plastic pot (5 or 15 gallon,
depending on the size you want) in the area where you want the plant. Make sure the bottom has been cut out for drainage. This
might make the annual division process easier for you, too.

I'm not uncomfortable making this recommendation, because I have related varieties growing successfully in my pond in containers.
Each spring, I remove almost 2/3 from the container and retain only the best looking third of the plant for the following season.

Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

pmjk@excite.com wrote:

> How can one control umbrella grass?  Ours spreads latterally by rhizomes whereever it wants.  Is there a recommended herbicide?



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 13:49:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 13:55:20 -0700
To: az_mg_pro@Ag.Arizona.Edu, school_garden@mallorn.com,
        arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Butterflies of Arizona

<http://www.npwrc.usgs.gov/resource/distr/lepid/bflyusa/az/toc.htm>

Check out this website with photographs and descriptions of Butterflies 
found in Arizona.  It includes hundreds of butterflies and contains 
information in the following categories:

Wing span:

Keys to Identification:

Life history:

Flight Season:

Caterpillar host plants:

Adult food:

Habitat:

Range:

Conservation:

Management needs:


Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/


From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Oct 29 22:43:07 1999
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Reply-To: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Arid Gardener List" <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 22:28:01 -0700
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower and Garden Show

Date:  Saturday and Sunday, November 13 and 14, 1999

Location:  Washing Adult Center Auditorium
                  2240 W CITRUS WAY
                  PHOENIX  AZ

The Washington Adult Center is the half-mile street between  Bethany
Home Rd. and Glendale Ave, at 23rd Ave. and Citrus Way about 1/2 mile
east of I-17.

You are invited to the Fall Flower and Garden Show which is free and
open to the public.   The show is offered as a service to the public and
it brings together examples of the many flowers, vegetables, and fruits
that can be grown successfully in our low desert climate.  Important
objectives of the show are to increase interest in gardening,  to
encourage the growing of plants by more individuals, to broaden
horticultural knowledge and skills, and to protect and improve the
quality of plants grown.  You can help realize these objectives by
exhibiting your gardening accomplishments in the show.  An optional
novice section is available if you have not previously exhibited or won
a blue ribbon.

Entries will be accepted from 7:00AM to 10:00 AM on Saturday, November
13.  To obtain a schedule of show classifications and entry tags, send
your request with your mailing address to millero@worldnet.att.net .
Additional entry tags will also be available at the staging area at the
adult center.  See also the show announcement at
http://home.att.net/~millero/show99.html.

The show will be open for viewing 1:00-5:00 PM on Saturday and 1:00-4:00
PM on Sunday, November 13-14.





From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 10:11:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] help

i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its
leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the
base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow
then brown and falling off. this is happening on the  branches yet the
leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for
15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in
rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a
16-16-16 mixture.   what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do
i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated.
thanx




From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 11:07:20 1999
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From: Carolyn Chard <cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Howdy from the Desert Rat!

Rose & tulip, lemon & lime,
I can't think how to finish this rhyme!
  Carolyn H. Chard
  cchard@ag.arizona.edu

"You make a living by what you get;  you make a life by what you give."   




From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 12:22:05 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700
From: mike.todd@asu.edu (Michael Todd)
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves

Barbara,

We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. 
In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus).  This fungus tends
to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be
susceptible to it.  Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about
what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root
Rot.  If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider
planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for
years.  Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune)
to Texas Root Rot*:

Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis)
Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica)
Mesquite (Prosopis spp.)
Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.)
Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii)
Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii)
Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi)
Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)

Hope this helps.

*From Brookbank, G. (1992).  Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain
a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest.  Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp
103-104. 

>Message: 1
>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley
><BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] help
>
>i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its
>leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the
>base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow
>then brown and falling off. this is happening on the  branches yet the
>leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for
>15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in
>rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a
>16-16-16 mixture.   what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do
>i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated.
>thanx

Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
 
Dept of Psychology        |  Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University  |  Arizona State University West      
PO Box 871104             |  PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104       |  Phoenix AZ 85069-7100

E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu            
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004




From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 12:30:16 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: R2BESHON@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS

Please reply to <R2BESHON@aol.com>

these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers.  is there
something i
can put in the soil to eradicate them.



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 12:30:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: R2BESHON@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS

Please reply to <R2BESHON@aol.com>

each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer.  they are still
green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes.  why do the tomatoes
at
this stage never get bigger or ripen?  also for fall tomatoes - when should i
plant
and which variety is the best for slicing?  thank you.  r2beshon@AL.com



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 13:30:14 1999
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From: "Mike Hills" <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>
To: "Michael Todd" <mike.todd@asu.edu>, <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700
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Mike Todd


I think you could have a couple of things going on with this bottle tree
(I'm assuming that this is the Australian Bottle Tree - Brachychiton
populneus) that is so commonly planted in the metro-Phoenix area.

Texas Root Rot is quite common with these trees, but generally the leaves
seem to die almost overnite and stick on the tree, rather than changing
color and falling off - and the younger leaves at the branch tips should be
dead also for Texas Root Rot.    These trees are generally partially
deciduous, meaning that periodically they will shed many of their older
leaves and then flush out with fresh leaves.    Sometimes this is a seasonal
response and sometimes a response to stress - heat, lack of water, disease,
salt, etc.   The individual tree response varies greatly from clone to
clone.    If the tree looks healthy otherwise, has retained some of its
older leaves and the branch ends all have new leaves emerging, then it is
probably this response, rather than root rot.

If you choose to keep this tree and help ot recover, rather than replacing
at this time with a more root rot tolerant species, then I would also like
to suggest that you need to change your watering pattern to help the tree
recover and continue to grow healthy.    Many people place the
bubblers/drippers at the base of the young tree when forst planted and then
do not move and adjust them outwards as the tree matures.    For a 5 year
old tree, your water source should be out at the drip line of the tree, not
near the base.   Moving the drippers/bubblers out to the area on the ground
that is directly under the outer edge of the leaf canopy will make for a far
healthier tree as that is where the tree's feeder and water absorbing roots
are located.    Watering too near the trunk can promote disease and also
make for a shallow root system that is more prone to stress.

Also, you need to adjust your watering schedule to take into account the
fact that the tree is more mature now.    You are currently wateriing your
tree too often, and for way too short a period each time - too frequent and
short of waterings will lead to a shallow, stress prone root system, along
with accumulating salts in the root zone.   You should be watering the tree
for much longer at a time, but watering far fewer times since it is now 5
years old and considered a mature tree.   By watering for a longer period,
the water will soak in far deeper and help to flush accumulated salts out of
the root zone.   With this deeper watering schedule, you can probably cut
back your watering to once every 2 or 3 weeks.    Specific information on
suggested tree watering schedules will depend on how much water your
bubbler/drip system puts out over a set period of time.    Details on this
are available from your city's water conservation office, as well as on the
University of Arizona website.

Hope that this is helpful
Mike Hills
Maricopa County Master Gardener Volunteer

***********************************


From: Michael Todd <mike.todd@asu.edu>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Cc: cbi64@webtv.net <cbi64@webtv.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:23 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves


>arid_gardener
>Barbara,
>
>We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer.
>In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus).  This fungus tends
>to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be
>susceptible to it.  Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about
>what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root
>Rot.  If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider
>planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for
>years.  Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune)
>to Texas Root Rot*:
>
>Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis)
>Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica)
>Mesquite (Prosopis spp.)
>Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.)
>Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii)
>Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii)
>Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi)
>Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis)
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>*From Brookbank, G. (1992).  Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain
>a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest.  Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp
>103-104.


******************************************>
>>Message: 1
>>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700
>>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>>From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley
>><BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
>>Subject: [Arid_gardener] help
>>
>>i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its
>>leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the
>>base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow
>>then brown and falling off. this is happening on the  branches yet the
>>leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for
>>15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in
>>rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a
>>16-16-16 mixture.   what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do
>>i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated.
>>thanx
>
>Mike Todd
>Graduate Research Associate
>
>Dept of Psychology        |  Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
>Arizona State University  |  Arizona State University West
>PO Box 871104             |  PO Box 37100
>Tempe AZ 85287-1104       |  Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
>
>E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
>ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
>ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>





From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 13:55:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700
From: "Linda A. Guy" <laguy2@primenet.com>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS (Sow- or Pillbugs)

Sowbugs/pillbugs are found in very damp, shaded areas feeding on dying or
decaying vegetation. Refer to the entomology section of the Master
Gardener Manual at:

http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/relatives.html

I have not known this critter to eat roots, however. Since they are
attracted to moisture, could you be overwatering, resulting in roots
rotting while attracting these rolypolys? I have known them to feed on
small transplants, but this was vegetative, not root. Perhaps you've
another issue?

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

"by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

> arid_gardener
> Please reply to <R2BESHON@aol.com>
>
> these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers.  is there
> something i
> can put in the soil to eradicate them.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 14:10:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700
From: "Linda A. Guy" <laguy2@primenet.com>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care for Ponytail Palm [Beaucarnea recurvata]

You've wisely chosen a southern/western indoors' exposure for a plant that likes plenty of good lighting. I've not had personal experience with this as
an outdoor plant, but the Sunset Western Garden Book (page 180) suggests that it is viable outside in our zone. I'd watch carefully for the amount of
summer sun, however.

In my personal experience, the single most important factor is your watering practice. This plant will like to be deeply watered, but infrequently;
drying out between waterings will be important. I drowned my last ponytail! Make sure run-off drains into a saucer and that it is not reabsorbed back
into the root ball, carrying back any salts that the first watering leached from the container's soil.

Tips on the end of foliage can mean lack of water, but overwatering or poor drainage are also likely candidates. Use a soil probe to check for the
moisture of the root ball. The plant could also have been overfertilized (meaning heavy salt content); of course lack of fertilization could also be a
factor. I normally stop fertilizing houseplants until spring growth recommences.

My personal practice and the recommendation of our Indoor Plant Selection and Care publication #8828 is to trim brown leaf tips and margins following
the shape of the leaf. I am not aware of specific advice to the contrary for Ponytails.

Hope this helps.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

jbh@azstarnet.com wrote:

> How often should I water a ponytail palm? It is in a room that gets southern and western light.
> It is about 4-5 ft tall and has several branches coming out of the main trunk. i got it at an estate sale and it has a lot of browning on the tips.
> What can be done for that? I read you are not supposed to cut off the brown parts.
> Thanks for your advice



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 14:34:44 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Citrus and Bougainvillea in Quartsite

Mr. and Mrs. Goff,

First, permit me to suggest that your county's Cooperative Extension office may be a better source of information for your particular area of Arizona. The only online publication we have is AZ
1001  Low Desert Citrus Varieties available at:

http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus

When you get to this index of the Home Horticulture website you will also notice some other publications that can be ordered by mail at $1 each from:
        Home Horticulture Publications
        University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
        4341 E. Broadway Road,  Phoenix, AZ 85040
        602/470-8086 (ext 301)

There used to be an old  U of A citrus publication 8464 called Citrus Trees in the Home Garden that covered most growing topics including fertilizing, watering, pruning, frost protections etc.
You can ask about it at the phone number above. But your own Extension Office might just as well have it.

As to bougainvilleas, most thrive on a bit of neglect. Indeed, the colorful bracts which are not a true flower, are most profuse when the plant is feeling a bit stressed for water. Overwatering
will generate lush green vegetation. I have never had the need to fertilize mine in the past. Wait until danger of frost passes in the spring time to trim damage from cold temps.

I hope this is helpful to you. Good luck.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

NollieR@redrivernet.com wrote:

> We are looking for information on growing citrus trees & bougainvillea in Quartzsite AZ. Can you give us some tips and/or reading material.  On line if possible.  Thank you. Doris & Ray Goff.



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 16:09:43 1999
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From: JeanSciFi@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST
To: helspermc@mindspring.com
CC: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape software

Hi Manfred,

There is a review of several landscaping programs in the National Home 
Gardening Club Magazine for Nov/Dec.

I'll list them below starting with the one that appears to give you the most 
flexibility.  

Complete Land Designer v. 5.0 (Sierra) price $50.00
Burpee 3D Garden Designer (Heat Zone Edition) Price $30
Expert Landscape Design 3D v. 5 price $12.00
Imagine Your Landscape (Adex) price $50.00
Planix Landscape (Autodesk) Price $20

If you do not have access to this magazine and are interested in more 
information about one of these I can type in the information given.  If you 
are in the local Phoenix area and have access to a fax machine I could also 
fax the entire page to you.

There is also a CD called Desert Landscaping but out by the Water Resources 
Research Center.  You can probably locate it most easily at the Maricopa 
County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway, Tempe, AZ

JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ

In a message dated 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
helspermc@mindspring.com writes:

<< Subj:     Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 Date:  10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time
 From:  helspermc@mindspring.com
 To:    arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 
 I am looking for software packages that will allow me to design landscaping 
,inclusive of the usage of desert plants and cacti. The software should draw 
plans and produce a list of items used with associated costs.
 Pls. let me know of your recommendations and sources for aquisition.
 Thanks,  Manfred Helsper
 

  >>


From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  2 16:52:12 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hibiscus

Hi,

Probably the best reference I can give you is the address for a Hibiscus 
Society.  It is located in Florida but they are willing to answer questions 
from AZ.  Very friendly people.  They also publish a Hibiscus Handbook.  I've 
sent for the book but it hasn't arrived as yet.  The address is

    http:\\ww.trop-hibiscus.com


In a message dated 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net writes:

<< Subj:     Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 Date:  10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time
 From:  BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net
 To:    arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 
 
 I need information or tips on how to get a big, beautiful tropical hibiscus 
to produce
 more blooms along with its great foliage-
 I feed it Miracid and diluted vinegar (roots only!) once a month. Thank you!
 
 
>>


From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov  3 16:02:10 1999
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From: GailThiele@aol.com
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] care and feeding of certain plants

The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you.  I needs lots of help 
in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants:  a Dracaena 
J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf 
ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that 
has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant.  I really need 
some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, 
misting requirements, and fertilizing needs.  I have a black thumb so if you 
could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it.  Also, I need to know how 
to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or 
what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off.  These 
plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there 
a book that would give me really good information?  I have the Sunset Garden 
Book, but it is not complete enough for me.  One final question:  is a 
moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the 
moisture present?  I get different readings the further down it is placed.
Thanks.
Gail A. Thiele
gailthiele@aol.com


From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov  3 19:00:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700
To: GailThiele@aol.com
From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Houseplants

Check out the University of Arizona Publication on House plants
<http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1025.pdf>

It is in PDF format so you will need acrobat reader to open.  For 
instructions on how to download a free copy see 
<http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants>

Yes moisture meters can give accurate indication of moisture present and it 
would not be unusual to have the top of the pot dry out prior to the bottom 
of the pot and so get different readings at different levels in your 
pot.  Moisture will evaporate off the top and gravity will pull it to the 
bottom.

Good luck with your house plants!


At 06:01 PM 11/03/1999 -0500, you wrote:
>arid_gardener
>The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you.  I needs lots of help
>in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants:  a Dracaena
>J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf
>ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that
>has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant.  I really need
>some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs,
>misting requirements, and fertilizing needs.  I have a black thumb so if you
>could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it.  Also, I need to know how
>to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or
>what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off.  These
>plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there
>a book that would give me really good information?  I have the Sunset Garden
>Book, but it is not complete enough for me.  One final question:  is a
>moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the
>moisture present?  I get different readings the further down it is placed.
>Thanks.
>Gail A. Thiele
>gailthiele@aol.com
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener



From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov  3 20:04:56 1999
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To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ta Dah!!!! Searchable Archives

Look what Paul Sarando, computer guru for the University of Arizona, has 
done for us!!!

<http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

He has created a search engine on the archives page that will search not 
only our new archives that we created when we moved to the mailman system, 
but also the old system which was on Majordomo.

This means that you can go to the archives, type in what you are interested 
in and it searches both archives (not just the subject line, the whole 
message) so it will find all the previous messages on a particular 
topic!!!  Check it out!!!

How Cool is That!!

Many, Many, Thanks to Paul for making the archives a functional tool for us!!!

Lucy

Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/


From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 09:42:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
From: Michelle Pinckard <mpinckard@earthlink.net> (by way of Lucy Bradley <BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu>)
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden

To Whom It May Concern:


I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice
on layout & brands of seed to use.  I would like to plant the following:

Green beans Broccoli  Carrots
Cerely  Cauliflower Endive
Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas
Radishes

I have a 12x12 foot garden area.  What do you recommend as far as
layout?
Do  you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of
these?

Please respond at your earliest convenience.






From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 10:59:48 1999
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To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to?



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 12:33:44 1999
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To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
From: BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Have a Great Thursday!Test Message



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 17:59:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST)
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To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do Iwater it until it is established ?



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 22:43:10 1999
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Reply-To: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Arid Gardener List" <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>,
        <mpinckard@earthlink.net>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991104091411.009d8a60@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700
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Michelle Pinckard <mpinckard@earthlink.net> on Thursday, November 04,
1999 9:14 AM wrote:
> ...
> I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some
advice
> on layout & brands of seed to use.  I would like to plant the
following:
>
> Green beans Broccoli  Carrots
> Cerely  Cauliflower Endive
> Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas
> Radishes
>
> I have a 12x12 foot garden area.  What do you recommend as far as
> layout?
> Do  you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any
of
> these?

I would us a modified "Square Foot Garden" layout.  You could block out
9 3-foot square beds with 18 inches walkways between them.   Or 4 5-foot
squares or some other convenient combination.  See
http://members.primary.net/~silvest/garden/spacing.html for recommended
sqft plant spacings and other ideas for your garden layout.  Note that
many sqft gardens are in raised beds for various reasons but it isn't
really necessary to make raised beds.

Unless you plan to use plastic tunnels forget about planting green beans
until mid March.  They need warm soil and it is already too cool to grow
beans out in the open.  And there isn't time to make a crop before
frost.  See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for the
vegetable planting schedule for Maricopa county.

Most broccoli types produce fairly well.  You will usually get  only 1
large head but the side shoots are just as  tasty and will produce over
a long period if you harvest them before the yellow blossoms appear.
Look for a type with a short time to maturity.  Green Comet and Packman
are my personal favorites because of prolific side shoot production but
there are many others.  I would suggest buying transplants for both
broccoli and cauliflower - faster than seed at this late date.  When
buying transplants, your choices are pretty limited.  Self blanching
cauliflower is pretty popular but the regular old-fashioned types seem
to be hardier.

You might want to begin with a short carrot like Short-n-Sweet or
Thumbelina if you have tight clay soil.  I usually grow a Nantes type
because it is more cylindrical with very little taper.   Can't recommend
any celery types - it hasn't been successful for me.

Black Seeded Simpson is a bland flavored, light green lettuce which
grows well here and is a pretty good substitute for iceberg lettuce.  It
is pretty widely available. You can often get 3-4 shearings from it
before it starts to become bitter.  Many of the other old standbys like
oak-leaf and salad bowl are more flavorful.  I'd suggest trying a leaf
lettuce mix or a Mesclun mix to see what works best for you.  For
radishes, I would also suggest starting with a mix - something like
cherry belle, French breakfast, icicle, champion, etc to see which works
best for you.

Any of the curly endives should do okay - it's pretty hardy.  Green
onions can be grown pretty rapidly using the generic sets available now
in most garden center.   For peas, we usually grow Wando it can get
pretty rangy.  Little Marvel,a short bush type,  is also a good choice.
You might also want to try "sugar snap peas".   You don't need to shell
them - one eats the entire pod.

Good Luck!
Olin Miller
http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html







From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 23:02:58 1999
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Reply-To: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Arid Gardener List" <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>, <pacha@c2i2.com>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991104185049.009ffe20@ag.arizona.edu>
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jerusalem artichoke planting dates/AZ

On Thursday, November 04, 1999 6:51 PM, Toni L. Allen <pacha@c2i2.com>
wrote:
> ....  We're getting conflicting  info about when to plant them here in
central AZ.   When??   Can we plant  now.  If we don't plant now,  how
do we store them until planting.
> ...

Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers in May.  They need warm weather.  You
might try storing in a refrigerator.  -Olin Miller






From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov  4 23:59:23 1999
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Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST)
From: cmuller2000@earthlink.com
Message-Id: <199911050659.XAA17758@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I irrigate my lawn every 2 weeks (6-8 in). Should I continue this throughout the winter?



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov  5 14:45:20 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST)
From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com
Message-Id: <199911052145.OAA02717@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche?



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov  5 17:57:53 1999
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Reply-To: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Arid Gardener List" <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>, <R2BESHON@aol.com>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991102121923.00ac97c0@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700
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On  Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote:
>... these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers.  is
there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them.
> ...

I have heard diatomaceous earth works but have never tried it
yself.  -Olin



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov  5 17:59:24 1999
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Reply-To: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
From: "Olin Miller" <millero@worldnet.att.net>
To: "Arid Gardener List" <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>, <R2BESHON@aol.com>
References: <4.2.0.58.19991102122029.00acbdb0@ag.arizona.edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700
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On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote:
>...
> each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer.  they are
still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes.  why do
the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen?  also for fall
tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for
slicing?
> ...

Reccomended planting date for fall tomatoes is from July15 to August 15
according to the schedule at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf.  Can't help with the other
questions.   Sorry.   -Olin Miller



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov  5 20:06:47 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf: Winter watering

All plants require much less water in the winter ; a rule of thumb is 1/2 the 
summer requirements. The newspapers on the weather page list the amount of 
water required to keep turf healthy, which varies throughout the year.
Check outt the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf care at the following 
website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
 Good luck. Rod


From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 08:55:14 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST)
From: ecard10331@aol.com
Message-Id: <199911061555.IAA16662@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

We recently had two Chilean Mesquite Trees planted in our yard. During planting the Drip system was damaged and both trees were excessively watered for some time before we realized what had happened and repaired the damage. Now both trees are shedding their leaves. Are these trees dying? Can we salvage them? They have been in one month and the problem was solved after about two weeks. How often should we water these trees and for how long? they are beautiful trees and we would hate to lose them.Thanks in advance for your advice.Ed Cardinal



From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 11:46:34 1999
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From: "kevin@linda ahern" <kallaz@gte.net>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] <no subject>

I cannot get connected to your question line.  What are the huge white slimy
caterpillars that are now in my unsuccessful vegetable garden soil?  Did
they come from my compost pile?


From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 12:07:00 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST)
From: kallaz@gte.net
Message-Id: <199911061907.MAA05112@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have raised beds in my garden.  We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing.  This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops.  Nothing sprouted in my first planting!  I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on.  When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches.  What are these???  Did they come from my compost pile????  Did they eat my rooting seeds?  What do I do?  Many thx



From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 14:15:48 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST)
From: uitti@primenet.com
Message-Id: <199911062115.OAA17315@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem:What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather?  I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time.  What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom?I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.  Thanks again.Paul Uitti   



From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 14:34:33 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST)
From: scottwlee@hotmail.com
Message-Id: <199911062134.OAA19184@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally.  I am interested in planting a lawn.  I would like to know about the grasses I could use.  I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass.  I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot!



From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov  6 21:06:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST)
From: deniseorjohn@home.com
Message-Id: <199911070406.VAA25861@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I read an article on desert flowers andwanted to know if the Hymenoxys acaulis(Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard eversummer.       Do you know what daisies I'm referring too?  I'd love to plant more and also wouldlove to know how to keep them from dying outeach year.  Thanks



From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 14:30:01 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf recommendation for Thatcher, Az.

Scott, I would recommend that you check with your county extension  office. 
If I knew your elevation and climate zone I would be in a better position to 
help. Your county  agent should be able to help you.
Good luck. Rod


From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 16:14:44 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Over watered Mesquite trees

Ed
It is typical of trees that are under stress to drop their leaves and being 
overwatered for two weeks might be enough to cause stress.  Hopefully yours 
will not be lost.  My guess is that your trees should be ok.  I doubt that 
your trees have established much root growth yet and especially with the over 
watering.  When the tree was planted did anyone check to make sure that you 
had good drainage from the planting hole?  The planting hole filled with 
water should drain overnight.  If it doesn't it is not a fit place to plant a 
tree.  A small hole dug down to the depth of the root ball at the edge of the 
root ball should tell you the current moisture situation.  An experienced 
person can determine the same thing by inserting a steel probe; the probe 
will go easily to the depth that the water has penetrated.  This is also a 
great way to determine if the irrigation water has penetrated to the proper 
depth.  
If the tree has not been watered in two weeks it should need water now unless 
your soil is not draining well.  Deep watering every two to three weeks 
during the winter should be adequate.  The root ball on a newly planted tree 
dries out much faster than the surrounding soil and should be monitored until 
the roots have penetrated into the surrounding soil.
I would be glad to hear from you as to how your trees do.
Good luck. Rod
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following 
website:  http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html 


From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 16:40:19 1999
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST)
From: seklug@earthlink.net
Message-Id: <199911072340.QAA29375@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and knowledgeable tree trimmer.Would it be best to find someone who is a certifiedarborist. Other than taking my chances with theyellow pages, do you have a list or can you makea recommendation? 



From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 19:21:01 1999
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From: Codiedale@aol.com
Message-Id: <199911080221.TAA16391@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet)on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions.  Any other information you my have would be great too.



From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 20:55:17 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Certified Arborist Listing

The following website will have a list of Certified Arborists in your area:
http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~isa/arborists/arborist.html
Good luck. Rod


From arid_gardener-admin  Sun Nov  7 22:54:36 1999
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Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST)
From: tacman7@aol.com
Message-Id: <199911080554.WAA14261@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago.  The sod is seeded with winter rye.  I have a sprinkler system.  I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes.



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 08:51:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700
From: "Barry L. Bequette" <plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Organization: University of Arizona
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--
Barry L. Bequette, Ph.D.
University of Arizona
County Extension Director, Yuma County
2200 West 28th Street, Suite 102
Yuma, AZ  85364-6928
Phone: (520) 726-3904
Fax: (520) 726-8472
Mobile: (520) 210-1663
email: plantdoc@ag.arizona.edu


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Subject: Horticulture Conference
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  Yuma's Home and Garden Horticulture Conference

  Agenda:

7:30 a.m. - 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments

8:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry Mikel U of =
A Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona.

9:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike Matheron =
U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

10:30 a.m. - 10:45 a.m. Break

10:45 a.m. - 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A Cooperative =
Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

11:45 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle

12:30 p.m. - 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. David =
Kerns U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

1:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A =
Cooperative Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona.

2:30 p.m. - 2:35 p.m. Break

2:35 p.m. - 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City of Yuma =
Parks & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona.

Date: February 12, 2000

Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. 28th Street.

Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up

$10.00 at the door.

R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension Office

2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona

726-3904

Raffle On Garden Items

8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered!



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  <P>Yuma&#8217;s Home and Garden Horticulture Conference</P>
  <P></FONT><FONT face=3DJester size=3D3>Agenda:</P></BLOCKQUOTE>
<P>7:30 a.m. &#8211; 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments</P>
<P>8:30 a.m. &#8211; 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry =
Mikel U of A=20
Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona.</P>
<P>9:30 a.m. &#8211; 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike =
Matheron U of=20
A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.</P>
<P>10:30 a.m. &#8211; 10:45 a.m. Break</P>
<P>10:45 a.m. &#8211; 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A =
Cooperative=20
Extension, Yuma, Arizona.</P>
<P>11:45 a.m. &#8211; 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle</P>
<P>12:30 p.m. &#8211; 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. =
David Kerns U=20
of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.</P>
<P>1:30 p.m. &#8211; 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A =
Cooperative=20
Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona.</P>
<P>2:30 p.m. &#8211; 2:35 p.m. Break</P>
<P>2:35 p.m. &#8211; 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City =
of Yuma Parks=20
&amp; Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona.</P></FONT><FONT face=3D"Book =
Antiqua"=20
size=3D4>
<P align=3Dcenter>Date: February 12, 2000</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. =
28<SUP>th</SUP>=20
Street.</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>$10.00 at the door.</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension =
Office</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>2200 W. 28<SUP>th</SUP> Street Yuma, Arizona</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>726-3904</P>
<P align=3Dcenter>Raffle On Garden Items</P></FONT><FONT face=3DJester =
size=3D7>
<P align=3Dcenter>8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered!</P>
<P align=3Dcenter></P></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00--


--------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C--



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 09:45:22 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST)
From: solson@asu.edu
Message-Id: <199911081645.JAA22387@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old.  It has suddenly died.  The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid.  He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches.  What do you think?



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 11:42:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST)
From: yiayia1@prodigy.net
Message-Id: <199911081841.LAA23508@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with no other information available.  We have not been able to find out what this plant is, nor how to care for it.  Can someone help? 



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 12:25:44 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700
From: mike.todd@asu.edu (Michael Todd)
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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 <fc.00663ce500291f1d3b9aca0044e3a9e7.291f58@asuwest-online.west.asu.edu>
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sapphire Dragon Tree

Here are the URLs for a couple of websites that could be of some use:

http://www.paulownia.org/bibliography.html 

http://www.sapphire-dragon.com/ 


Good luck.

-mike t.

arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes:
>Message: 9
>Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST)
>From: yiayia1@prodigy.net
>To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with
>no other information available.  We have not been able to find out what
>this plant is, nor how to care for it.  Can someone help? 


Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
 
Dept of Psychology        |  Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University  |  Arizona State University West      
PO Box 871104             |  PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104       |  Phoenix AZ 85069-7100

E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu            
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004




From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 15:37:42 1999
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From: JeanSciFi@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea
To: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com
CC: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Hi,

In areas with caliche, the addition of soil sulfur and organic matter to the 
backfill will help to break down the caliche and release nutrients to the 
plants.  Although it is often recommended gypsum should not be used because 
it is ineffective in caliche or calcified soils.  Plants properly suited to 
the local soils will perform well with native soil as the backfill.

I have several friends that planted their bougainvillea into the native clay 
soil we have in our neighborhood, with no amendments.  I have mine in a pot 
filled with potting soil.  All seem to be doing fine so they must have a wide 
range of tolerance. 

I find no specific information as to plant depth but the usual is to guide by 
the potted plant itself.  It should not be planted deeper then it is in the 
pot.

In a message dated 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, 
PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com writes:

<< Subj:     [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 Date:  11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time
 From:  PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com
 Sender:    arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 To:    arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 
 arid_gardener
 How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all 
caleche?
 
 
 
  >>


From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 15:37:42 1999
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	Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:37:38 -0700 (MST)
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Avocado Tree
To: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Hi,

Probably your best bet for an answer to your avocado question is to contact 
Dick Gross.  rkg144@worlnet.att.net

He is the secretary of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers.  This group has the 
best information for growing semi tropical plants in the valley.

JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunter,
Apache Junction, AZ


In a message dated 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time, 
aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes:

<< Subj:     [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
 Date:  11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time
 From:  aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 Sender:    arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 To:    arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 
 arid_gardener
 What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to?
 
 
 _______________________________________________
 Arid_gardener mailing list
 Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
 
 
>>


From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 17:43:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST)
From: reesaviary@cs.com
Message-Id: <199911090043.RAA21534@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

when do you pick the olives to be canned and how to can green and black olives?



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 22:42:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST)
From: Pacsmith@att.net
Message-Id: <199911090542.WAA04250@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization  or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help!



From arid_gardener-admin  Mon Nov  8 22:44:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST)
From: Pacsmith@att.net
Message-Id: <199911090544.WAA04419@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization  or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help!



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 09:09:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST)
From: maxcel@swlink.net
Message-Id: <199911091609.JAA04894@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have a small compost pile in my backyard that I started earlier this year.  It has a large number of ants in it, but it also has worms that we can't identify.  When I saw them a couple of weeks ago, they looked like they were about an inch long and very pale.  I thought they might be some type of grub.  Any idea what these might be and if they are OK for my compost?



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 11:08:22 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones 
with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping 
stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before.


From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 11:37:15 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST)
From: DorrineM@AOL.com
Message-Id: <199911091837.LAA14006@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat?  Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant.   It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses.   Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing?We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also?   Any rabbit repelents?



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 11:55:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST)
From: dmaceachern@energes.com
Message-Id: <199911091855.LAA21559@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living)I have a question on how to trim/prunetwo trees I have in my front yard. They werenew and planted in May. I believe they aremembers of the Mesquite family. They have doubledin width & height. I want to trim them back inwidth so they are not interfering with the sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall.Is there a web site page you could direct me tothat either explains or illustrates the proper method. I am new to the area and wantto ensure I do not damage the plant.Thank You.



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 13:20:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700
From: Sue Bass <sjbass@uswest.net>
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Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question Pruning Trees
References: <199911091855.LAA21559@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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You can visit the following page from the Master Gardener
manual for great information on
pruning:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html

Good luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener Volunteer

dmaceachern@energes.com wrote:

> arid_gardener
> Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living)
>
> I have a question on how to trim/prune
> two trees I have in my front yard. They were
> new and planted in May. I believe they are
> members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled
> in width & height. I want to trim them back in
> width so they are not interfering with the
> sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall.
>
> Is there a web site page you could direct me to
> that either explains or illustrates the
> proper method. I am new to the area and want
> to ensure I do not damage the plant.
>
> Thank You.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 13:45:40 1999
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To: DorrineM@AOL.com
CC: arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question Rabbits in the Garden
References: <199911091837.LAA14006@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
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Dorrine:
I have a few ideas that MIGHT help you.  In a book I have called, "A Miscellany of Garden Wisdom" (its a collection of homespun, old time knowledge) it is mentioned that a liberal planting of Foxglove will keep rabbits away.  If you like foxglove, it might be worth a
try.  It also mentioned onions.  I use a product called Repel which I purchase at nurseries.  I use it to keep cats from using my flower bed as a litter box.  It works well for that.  The container lists Rabbits as well.  Always follow the instructions on the
container.  Chicken wire fencing is one of the most effective ways to keep rabbits out.

You can also visit the following site:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html

 This is a new section of the on-line Master Gardener manual, which may give you some suggestions.
Good luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener Volunteer

DorrineM@AOL.com wrote:

> arid_gardener
> Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat?  Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant.   It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses.   Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing?
> We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also?   Any rabbit repelents?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener



From arid_gardener-admin  Tue Nov  9 17:06:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST
To: Pacsmith@att.net
CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm and other tree care

Queen Palms are not native to nor are they well adapted to our low desert, 
and because  of this they are not long lived. It is not a tree that one can 
plant and forget. It must be watered and fertilized  properly. Granular 
fertilizer uniformly  spread on the ground at the drip line of the tree, 
whether palm or other tree, and watered in well will provide a more uniform 
fertilization than other methods. Fertilization by injection could be a 
viable way  to correct a nutrient dificiency or for a special situation. 
Fertilizer spikes will provide the tree with a uniform nutrient release which 
you won't have with the surface application. A combination of the spikes with 
the surface application will work well provided the reccommended  rate is not 
exceeded.
Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide quite commonly used on many applications 
in the garden and landscape. One of its applications is to treat bud rot on 
palms. Alliette, a more costly fungicide, appears to be targeted toward a 
specific fungi. Sorry but I don't have available a chemical make up of 
Alliette. If it is important to you I could research it.
The Evergreen Elm is quite susceptable to Texas Root Rot. One way to minimise 
the chances of Texas Root Rot is not to over water. Periodic applications of 
soil sulfur  will help to lower the soil pH which is also helpful.
But most of all INCREASE the irrigation interval in fall, and more in winter. 
Each time you water, DEEP WATER.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist


From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 14:22:02 1999
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From: "Mike Hills" <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>
To: <scottwlee@hotmail.com>, <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700
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Hello Scott in Thatcher

If I am reading my map correctly, you are at about 3,000 foot elevation
which gives you more options for turfgrass than us low desert gardeners.
You may want to double check with your local county extension agent for
their local recommendations for turfgrass in your area.

You should be able to grow a Turf Tall Fescue lawn which would be "softer"
than bermuda, and will also remain green year round.    You should plant
this grass seed in the early-mid Fall or in early spring.   A Fall planting
will be better to allow the fescue plants to establish a strong root system
before next summer's heat returns.     Deep, infrequent watering will make
the grass healthier.    This grass species does require more water than
bermuda, but once your stand is a couple of years old, it will have a deep
root system.   Mowing height is recommended at 2-3 inches, and this grass
species is fairly tolerant of shade if you have older trees.

Plant 6-8 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet of turf area  (DO NOT plant more
than this rate -  too many seedlings crowding each other will promote
disease).     Your local garden centers and nurseries should have detailed
information for you on planting and care of this turfgrass species.
There are many different varieties and brand names available, just make sure
that the seed package label says the words "Turf Tall Fescue" somewhere on
it.

Good Luck
Mike Hills
Master Gardener, Maricopa County
Research Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon
*******************************************

-----Original Message-----
From: scottwlee@hotmail.com <scottwlee@hotmail.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:34 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>arid_gardener
>I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally.  I am
interested in planting a lawn.  I would like to know about the grasses I
could use.  I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass.  I
admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your
information not too technical. Thanks a lot!
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>





From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 14:22:30 1999
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From: "Mike Hills" <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>
To: <Codiedale@aol.com>, <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700
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Just a brief note from my personal experience.

1)  It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water  -
fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate
better & faster.

2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does
need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant.

3)  You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a
plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they
eat them.

4)  Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in
the spring from the trunk and main branches


mike hills - maricopa county master gardener
**************************************.
-----Original Message-----
From: Codiedale@aol.com <Codiedale@aol.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>arid_gardener
>I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been
attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet)
>on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the
conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral
information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions.  Any other
information you my have would be great too.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>





From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 14:22:49 1999
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From: "Mike Hills" <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>
To: <DorrineM@AOL.com>, <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] rabbit repellent plants
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700
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Dorrine  -  you might try planting some YARROW plants.   This is a herb that
looks a lot like a fern, and comes in many different bloom colors  -  grows
very well here in the Valley.    Readily available at local nurseries and
garden centers this time of year.   The flowers can be dried and used in
crafts and flower arrangements.    According to many members of the Arizona
Herb Association who grow this plant, the pungent smell of the leaves is not
pleasing to rabbits so they usually avoid eating these.   Some members
recommend planting these yarrow plants along the front or outer edge of the
flower beds so the rabbits hit them first and are hopefully turned aside.

I am surprised that they ate your lantana.    Next spring you may want to
try planting larger size lantana plants so that they have a better start and
can then keep up enough growth to get ahead of the animal munching.

I have also had people recommend several different items below to use as
rabbit repellents, HOWEVER, please be aware that in very dry years with
little in the desert to eat, the rabbits and other desert dwellers will come
into your yard anyway once they get hungry enough.

Blood Meal or Bone Meal sprinkled around the garden beds - available at
nurseries.

Human, Cat or Dog hair tied up in little muslin or cheesecloth bags and hung
in your shrubs and bushes  -  the odor of "predator" is supposed to keep
rabbits away.

Cat litterbox cleanout (cat dung) scattered around the edge of your property
is sometimes effective in repelling the rabbits into other people's yards
(again due to the potential cat predator threat)

Moth Balls - available at drugstores - scattered around in the foliage or
along the edge of your property where you think the animals are netering.
Not on any human edible plants and please be aware that the smell that helps
keep the rabbits away is also not pleasant for people.

Commercial spray and powder products to repell pests can be purchased at
your garden center, hardware store or  nursery and do sometimes work
(example: "Ropell").

You may also want to contact the Desert Botanical Garden and The Arizona
Game & Fish office -  both have helpful publications on this topic.

Mike Hills - Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County
******************************************************************

-----Original Message-----
From: DorrineM@AOL.com <DorrineM@AOL.com>
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:38 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page


>arid_gardener
>Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat?  Something
(probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant.   It is a small area in
front of house - have tried Lantana and roses.   Would like to put in pansy
or petunias - is this possible without fencing?
>We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate
rodents - seem to have them also?   Any rabbit repelents?
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>





From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 15:15:03 1999
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From: "Mike Hills" <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>
To: <Codiedale@aol.com>, <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Castor Beans
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700
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>arid_gardener
>Just a brief note from my personal experience.
>
>1)  It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water  -
>fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate
>better & faster.
>
>2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does
>need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant.
>
>3)  You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a
>plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they
>eat them.
>
>4)  Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in
>the spring from the trunk and main branches
>
>
>mike hills - maricopa county master gardener
>**************************************.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Codiedale@aol.com <Codiedale@aol.com>
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
>Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM
>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>>arid_gardener
>>I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been
>attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet)
>>on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the
>conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral
>information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions.  Any other
>information you my have would be great too.
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Arid_gardener mailing list
>>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>





From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 15:41:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST)
From: dybegay@amug.org
Message-Id: <199911102241.PAA22953@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I live in the NE area.  I have a small garden and I like to know how and where I can find frost dates.



From arid_gardener-admin  Wed Nov 10 16:12:12 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700
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From: Carol Noyes <cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Cc: maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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--=====================_29171197==_.ALT
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The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron
Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market.  This
is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey,
etc. yourself.  (NO brokers please)

If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for
your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start.  Stop by and see
our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a
call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ 
--=====================_29171197==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
The <b>South Mountain Farmers Market</b>, located at 6414 S. 26th Street
at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing
Farmers Market.&nbsp; This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the
produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself.&nbsp; (NO brokers
please)<br>
<br>
If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet
for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start.&nbsp;
Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or
give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more
information.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>Carol Noyes</div>
<div>Administrative Secretary</div>
<div>Maricopa County</div>
<div>Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs</div>
<br>
<div>602-470-8086&nbsp; Ext. 308</div>
<br>
<div>Have a wonderful day!!</div>
<br>
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
</html>

--=====================_29171197==_.ALT--



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov 11 06:38:16 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST)
From: ed-gayle@home.com
Message-Id: <199911111338.GAA03682@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental.  I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen.  What do you think?  Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding?  I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything.



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov 11 08:06:03 1999
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I have an ornamental pomegranate tree and it never gets any fruit on it.  It 
is grown for the blooms.  

Val


From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov 11 09:27:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST)
From: maxcel@swlink.net
Message-Id: <199911111627.JAA24539@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have a hibiscus in my backyard that I planted last fall.  Towards the end of this summer it finally started growing!  It has put on about 1 1/2 - 2 feet of growth.  Now I am wondering when and how much I should cut it back so that it won't get leggy.Also, it hasn't flowered in a long time.  When can I expect to see some flowers?Thanks,Celestine



From arid_gardener-admin  Thu Nov 11 14:45:11 1999
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus: with vegetative growth and no blooms

Celestine,  You can prune back your hibiscus about 1/3 next spring after the 
danger of frost is past. Too much nitrogen fertilizer would cause a lot of 
vegetative growth and few blossoms. I would suggest that you use a balanced 
fertilizer.
Good luck. 
Rod


From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov 12 06:40:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST)
From: gretchen@hpiug.org
Message-Id: <199911121340.GAA24789@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Is there an inexpensive but reliable way to water is of my houseplants while away on an extended vacation (2 months) ?  I have found some wick devices that last two weeks.  



From arid_gardener-admin  Fri Nov 12 17:18:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST)
From: valpogrl@aol.com
Message-Id: <199911130018.RAA00306@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

Hi,I am having problems with my roses generally this fall, the worst is a "Paradise" rose, about 10 years old.  Alot of the leaves have turned yellow and then fallen, I haven't seen any black spot however.  BUT, the stems are turning purple, though they don't seem swollen, just purple.  Black spot?  Vitamin defiency?  Any ideas? Thanks,Cindy



From arid_gardener-admin  Sat Nov 13 06:33:34 1999
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