Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] pre-emergent treatment for spurge in lawn
=20
=20
I read that this is the time to put on the pre emergent treatment =
for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. I can find things to =
kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. The one thing I found said =
to apply when the weeds are growing but the spurge doesn't really grow =
till the weather gets hot. Is this the right time and if so could you =
give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? I looked at Home Depot =
and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Tom & Peggy =
Derieg
Hope that this is a little helpful in your search =
for a=20
Pre-Emergent Herbicide for your lawn.
I assume that you have a bermudagrass lawn of come =
variety and=20
are a low desert resident. Did you overseed with =
ryegrass this=20
fall? The instructions on the bag that you =
thought meant=20
that it could kill the grass usually refers to new grass seedlings =
- =20
not to a mature turf plants. If your ryegrass has been =
in for=20
a couple months now, you can go ahead and apply one of these "weed =
&=20
feed" type products at the rate recommended on the bag (NOT any =
higher!)=20
and should have no problems with death to your ryegrass or the =
underlying=20
dormant bermuda plants. You just should not apply before or =
shortly=20
after putting down ryegrass seed in the fall, OR new bermuda seed in the =
late=20
spring/summer.
Generally we recommend that the pre-emergent =
herbicide and=20
fertilizer combination products are applied in the Fall (if you do not =
overseed)=20
and again in early Spring (whether you overseed or not) - =
this will=20
help take care of the crop of fall sprouting weed species and the crop =
of spring=20
sprouters (like spurge) as they pop up. Read the bag labels =
closely=20
and make sure it says Pre-emergent and then apply in February or early =
March for=20
spurge control. Lots of different brand labels, so =
cannot=20
recommend any specific brand - just depends on the one that =
your=20
store has in stock.
The post-emergent weed killers are =
for treatment=20
of weeds in winter and summer, after the weeds already germinated and=20
established because you missed your fall or spring applications of=20
pre-emergents. The winter cold should kill any spurge =
you have=20
in your lawn now, and a properly applied early spring product should =
stop most=20
of the seeds from sprouting next year.
One thing - usually the nurseries and =
garden=20
centers do not stock these pre-emergents in mid-summer and mid-winter, =
which may=20
explain your difficulty finding them. They stock them only =
during=20
the part of the year when they should be applied - early spring and =
early=20
fall. Wait until February to look for it again. =
ALSO, a critical factor in weed control in a lwan is =
to keep=20
the lawn thick and dense and healthy. Proper lawn care =
-=20
watering, mowing, fertilizing, etc. - will usually prevent thin or bare =
areas -=20
no thin or bare areas means no sunlight o nthe soil which =3D no weed =
seeds=20
sprouting each year. Check our University of Arizona =
and=20
Maricopa County Extension website for turf care information to get your =
lawn=20
healthy again. ALSO, we have a turf and lawn care class =
scheduled=20
for this year that would probably help you a lot. =
Contact=20
Master Gardener Lori Thompson at lthompson@rocketmail.com&nbs=
p; for=20
details of time, date, cost, etc. for this upcoming class =
session.
Good Luck!
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa =
County
**********************************************************
-----Original =
Message-----
From:=20
Tom Derieg <tderieg@goodnet.com>
To:=
=20
arid gardener <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>
Date:=20
Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] =
pre-emergent=20
treatment for spurge in lawn
I read that this is the time to put on the =
pre=20
emergent treatment for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. =
I can=20
find things to kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. =
The one=20
thing I found said to apply when the weeds are growing but the =
spurge=20
doesn't really grow till the weather gets hot. Is this the right =
time and if=20
so could you give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? =
I looked=20
at Home Depot and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy=20
Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740--
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:58:29 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:58:29 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Institute of Desert Ecology
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist (Mammals) -Carol
Olson, M.S., University of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona
(Herpetology)-Linwood Smith, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds & Plants) -Bob
Scarborough, Consulting Geologist (Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available through the
University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1 unit) for an
additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate), payable at the
Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a means of
bringing
together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors for field studies of the
Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held at Catalina State Park, at the base
of Santa Catalina Mountains, April 13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may
be earned during the sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am, however, all
participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12 after 4 pm to
register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee includes a waiver of park
entrance and camping fees for April 12 through 16. The program will end at 2:30
pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State Park. The
spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina Mountains forms the backdrop
for this 5,500 acre desert park located just north of Tucson at elevations
ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The desert washes, canyons and bajadas
contain a vast array of desert plants and wildlife. The park is a popular
birding area and has a bird list of over 150 species that have been seen within
its borders. Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees,
adjacent to undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian
areas, and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot, but
expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with emphasis on
relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical characteristics of
the desert rather than classification and identification. Our days start early
and optional activities such as owling, blacklighting for insects and star
talks extend into the evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in
small groups during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of the Audobon
Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in good health.
Registration is limited to no more than 65 people. Faculty members are
experienced at teaching students with different knowledge levels; anyone with
an interest in natural history and desert ecology can participate. No pets are
allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own tents or campers.
Water is available at the site, but there are no electrical or water hookups.
To avoid disrupting the peaceful surroundings, operation of generators is not
permitted at the site. Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and
the park has holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate vegetarians. Before
early field sessions, a nutritious pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact
the director for further information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes instruction, camp
services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on Thursday morning and ending
with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable deposit of $45 per person must
accompany the registration form. The balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please
make checks payable to the Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be
refunded for cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are available
(contact your director for information). *To avoid disappointment, please
register early, since the Institute is often fully enrolled several months in
advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of Desert Ecology, 300 E.
University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386, sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of
Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie
Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist
(Mammals) -Carol Olson, M.S., University
of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil
Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Herpetology)-Linwood Smith,
Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl
Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds &
Plants) -Bob Scarborough, Consulting Geologist
(Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available
through the University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1
unit) for an additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate),
payable at the Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a
means of bringing together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors
for field studies of the Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held
at Catalina State Park, at the base of Santa Catalina Mountains, April
13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may be earned during the
sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am,
however, all participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12
after 4 pm to register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee
includes a waiver of park entrance and camping fees for April 12 through
16. The program will end at 2:30 pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State
Park. The spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina
Mountains forms the backdrop for this 5,500 acre desert park located just
north of Tucson at elevations ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The
desert washes, canyons and bajadas contain a vast array of desert plants
and wildlife. The park is a popular birding area and has a bird
list of over 150 species that have been seen within its borders.
Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees, adjacent to
undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian areas,
and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot,
but expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with
emphasis on relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical
characteristics of the desert rather than classification and
identification. Our days start early and optional activities such
as owling, blacklighting for insects and star talks extend into the
evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in small groups
during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of
the Audobon Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in
good health. Registration is limited to no more than 65
people. Faculty members are experienced at teaching students with
different knowledge levels; anyone with an interest in natural history
and desert ecology can participate. No pets are allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own
tents or campers. Water is available at the site, but there are no
electrical or water hookups. To avoid disrupting the peaceful
surroundings, operation of generators is not permitted at the site.
Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and the park has
holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate
vegetarians. Before early field sessions, a nutritious
pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact the director for further
information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes
instruction, camp services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on
Thursday morning and ending with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable
deposit of $45 per person must accompany the registration form. The
balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please make checks payable to the
Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be refunded for
cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are
available (contact your director for information). *To avoid
disappointment, please register early, since the Institute is often fully
enrolled several months in advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax
deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm
or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of
Desert Ecology, 300 E. University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386,
sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT--
From Kirotate@aol.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Kirotate@aol.com Kirotate@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My orange tree has blossoms and it is only early December. I'm wondering why, and what to expect next. The oranges that had already set on it seem not to be turning color, yet there are of normal size. Incidentally, the orange tree next to it, is proceding on a normal schedule; I think the trees are 10-12 years old and my guess is they are Arizona sweet oranges. Thank you.
From bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:26:06 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:26:06 -0700
From: Carl Olson bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] ants
That's an interesting question. The only time I know of people getting ants
is for an ant farm and normally those things have a supplier. I am assuming
you want live ants, not dead ones. You might also try Wards Scientific or
Carolina Biological Supply for live material.
Carl
Carl A. Olson
Associate Curator
Dept. of Entomology
http://deadbugs.agforbes.arizona.edu/
University of Arizona
Tucson, AZ 85721
FAX (520) 621-1150 Office (520) 621-5925
e-mail bugman@ag.arizona.edu
NOTE from Lucy Bradley
Carolina Biological Supply, 2700 York Road, Burlington, NC 27215 has an
online catalog that contains an Ant Farm with a
certificate for ants. However, Arizona Residents must have a certificate
from USDA to receive ants.
From edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:34:35 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:34:35 -0700
From: by way of Lucy Bradley edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com
Subject: [AG] free fertilizer
Free organic fertilizer: goat manure; animals fed on alfalfa hay; no bermuda or
weeds. Gilbert, Arizona near Warner and Cooper roads. call for directions:
480-899-0534.
Thanks!
Edythe Jensen
From judithcheek@yahoo.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0800 (PST)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Marilyn Lehrbach judithcheek@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Found it!
Thank you. I found some brittlebush at Tip Top
Nursery on Bell Rd, Glendale. We are from WA. state
and desert gardening is very new to us as we come from
a wet and less than always sunny climate. Again,
thank you. Marilyn L. (judithcheek@yahoo.com)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
From cmcarlton@uswest.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:58:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:58:00 -0700 (MST)
From: cmcarlton@uswest.net cmcarlton@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
If lemons or oranges are picked off the tree a little early, will they ripen? My parents are visiting from Ohio and leaving on 12/14. They want to ake some citrus back with them, but it is not quite ready. Please advise. Thanks.
From j.turbenson@att.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:44 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:44 -0700 (MST)
From: j.turbenson@att.net j.turbenson@att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We moved here this summer from Minnesota. We have a large irrigated lot in Gilbert. I already have a raised bed garden on the property and flower beds. So far, anything I have planted just seems to sit there for awhile and dies. Nothing flourishes but acts like it is poisoned somehow. I have tried tomatos, petunias, herbs, Mums, etc. but nothing seems to want to grow and just withers and dies or stays in the soil without growth. Help. Thanks.
From Sunsfan001@aol.com Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:26:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:26:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Sunsfan001@aol.com Sunsfan001@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am interested in growing saguaros from seed. eg pre-treatment of seeds? potting medium, soil dampness, germination time, etc.
Thnaks,
Cheyl
From mulness@uswest.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:27:49 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:27:49 -0700 (MST)
From: mulness@uswest.net mulness@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Every year I grow a number of tomato and
pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
have some leaves that are slightly curled
and the whole plant does not have healthy
green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
and peppers but are not growing to the size
they should. We had a few white flies but not
amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
the years we have mulched and fertilized so
we have a very good soil base.
We use a soaker hose watering system so they
are watered well.
I hope I have given you enough so you can
come up with an answer.
Thank You, Merv Ulness
mulness@uswest.net
From eandrcook@hotmail.com Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: eandrcook@hotmail.com eandrcook@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
From teacher@bmol.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST)
From: teacher@bmol.com teacher@bmol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have Flame and Thompson varieties.
From helend5@aol.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 13:02:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 13:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: helend5@aol.com helend5@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 2 questions.
1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help.
2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help!
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis. Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them. They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season. But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:37:43 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:37:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Utility Line Clearing - Saguaro
I know you are frustrated with SRP's having cut your your majestic plant. I forwarded your note to the relevant unit (through my husband who is an SRP employee) to confirm my understanding of the utility's line clearing practices. It is the homeowner's responsibility to keep plant material pruned to a point that is reasonably clear of the lines for obvious safety
reasons and power delivery needs. As a homeowner, it would therefore be up to me to engage in the most beneficial horticultural practices for my plants/trees as well as the balanced look of the trees and aesthetics of my yard.
If I do not do so, and my trees threatened the lines in some way, the utility is permitted to 'clear the lines'. Although effort is made to use horticulturally correct pruning techniques, only that part of my tree that is in the lines will be cut.
Also, SRP would contact me only if they needed access to my property; if they can access my plant material through the alley or other easements or rights of way, they will do so without prior notice, as is their right.
The 45 degree angle was a good practice to minimize damage to your saguaro, as noted by a colleague who previously responded. If you have any questions for SRP itself, please contact the Line Clearing Division at 602/236-8888.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
alan35@goodnet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve this fantastic plant.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> Alan
> WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com
>
> The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page
> http://thewall-usa.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:09:19 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:09:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Brittlebush
I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> how much?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:16:42 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:16:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:26:02 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:26:02 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Lime Harvest Time
The UofA published a nice discussion of Citrus Trees in the Home Garden
(formerly #8464; I'm not sure of the new #) which suggests that Bearss
ripens from July through November, but will carry some fruit all year.
Taste testing is the best barometer, but remember, this is a tart lime.
If you're interested in the publication send $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Hope you're enjoying your harvest!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
LEONARDEM@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> BEARS LIME TREES
> WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR ARE THE FRUIT READY FOR PICKING
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:30:52 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:30:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Purchasing Brittlebush
This is more commonly available than you might expect. I've seen them at Harpers, Tip Top, Bakers, Desert Winds....now that xeriscaping is taking off (low water use) many nurseries have them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
judithcheek@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it. where can I buy Brittlebush?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:37:24 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:37:24 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Tomatos and Peppers in the Winter
Your plants would appear to be doing what comes naturally, as these are
fundamentally warm season vegetables in our area. I've never tried to
keep these two plants through the winter (I'm too preoccupied with my
cool season crops and don't want to allot the space!) but I really give
high marks to a device called the "wall 'o' water". It's about 2.5 feet
high and is a round plastic sleeve that fits around plants. The walls
are cylinders into which you put water with the garden hose. This then
becomes a hothouse for your plants.
I usually plant my "summer" tomatos mid Feb to March using these little
greenhouses and always have tomatos late April/May. I don't know why
these couldn't work for you during this season, too. You may want to
cover the tops on evenings during frost warnings.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mulness@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Every year I grow a number of tomato and
> pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
> have some leaves that are slightly curled
> and the whole plant does not have healthy
> green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
> and peppers but are not growing to the size
> they should. We had a few white flies but not
> amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
> the years we have mulched and fertilized so
> we have a very good soil base.
> We use a soaker hose watering system so they
> are watered well.
> I hope I have given you enough so you can
> come up with an answer.
>
> Thank You, Merv Ulness
> mulness@uswest.net
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:56:42 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:56:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Frost Protection
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
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I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that
will do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard.
Only in the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights
and extension cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I
grow) to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry
I couldn't resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the
horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or some
protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow
mine, besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer
anyway. I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh
seed or transplants in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
> I know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
> and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
> Brocoli? Leeks? I have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up
> against the south facing wall of my house. The lows where I live are
> often 10 to 12 degrees lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on
> the radio. The lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If
> the radio says 45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover
> the plants if it less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there
> was no frost on the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite
> frost when I go to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that will
do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard. Only in
the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights and extension
cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I grow)
to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry I couldn't
resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or
some protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow mine,
besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer anyway.
I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh seed or transplants
in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
I
know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
Brocoli? Leeks? I
have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up against the south facing
wall of my house. The lows where I live are often 10 to 12 degrees
lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on the radio. The
lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If the radio says
45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover the plants if it
less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there was no frost on
the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite frost when I go
to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039--
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:19:06 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:19:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where tree
roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
wild.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> Thanks for the information.
>
> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> garlic plants.
>
> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
>
> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >
> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >
> >> arid_gardener
> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> how much?
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> Archives -
> >
> >
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:21:12 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:21:12 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Wintertime Container Tomatos
If the area is well protected, if there is a full day's worth of sun
(and block walls around the plants to retain heat during the cold
nights) I suspect it might work, although I personally have not had
success. March might be too soon to expect ripened fruit. Recognize that
here in the low desert, tomatos are grown in the warmer not cooler
vegetable season.
I just answered a similar question where I recommended a mini-hothouse
contraption called a wall'o'water. This is a 2/5 foot sleeve of plastic
that is placed around a plant and whose walls are made of cylinders that
you fill with water to create the hot house effect. These
are fairly big and may be too large for your containers.
I'm hoping one of our other container gardening experts has some better
advice for you.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
eandrcook@hotmail.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
> I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:22:59 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:22:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:23:43 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:23:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Is Desert Landscaping Susceptible to Scorpion,Snake Infestation
I converted an old bermuda lawn to xeriscaping, with gravel and low
water use plants and have had no problems. In all my classes or reading
on the topic, I have not heard this raised as an
issue once. Indeed, in converting, I noted that other critters like
snails, cockroaches, etc. went elsewhere (the neighbors perhaps?) whose
yards were still lushly irrigated.
One note for you to consider: I live in an old, developed area of
central Phoenix. If you live in a new development on the outskirts,
where wildlife like snakes and scorpions are being
displaced by home and other building, you will likely see these. But it
will not, in my opinion, be because of the choice of landscaping.
Eventually, as a new neighborhood matures, the wildlife
abates.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
foxgray@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What are the disadvantages to having a desert landscape? We wanted to put rocks in our front yard, but someone told us that it brings scorpions, snakes and things like that. Is that true?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:31:28 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:31:28 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Drip Irriation Specifics
Since this is largely dependent on the type of plant material, may I suggest you peruse our Master Gardener Manual, Irrigation Section at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html
Overall, the Master Gardener Manual may also have other information that would be beneficial to your horticultural efforts. If the section in question does not address your specific needs, don't
hesitate to send us a detailed question again!
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
rknott@inficad.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a drip system (2 gal/hr) one setting for plants and one for a flower bed. Is there a watering guideline for how long, and how many days/week that I should water during the different seasons.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ray Knott (Sun Lakes)
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:37:52 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:37:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Irrigating Mexican Fan Palms
According to our Publication Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ 1021) available online at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
established palm trees do well with slow irrigation to 2 feet deep every 2 to 3 weeks in
the growing season (same amount every 4 to 6 weeks in winter).
Hope this helps.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Tpjscarp@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> how much water does a mexican fan palm need in gallons per week or month 3 years old?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:51:59 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:51:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Flower Removal from Gingko
The UofA's publication #Q375 Chemical Removal of Flowers on Olive and
Mulberry suggest a spray containing napthaleneacetic acid (NAA) or
strong streams of water during pollination season. Unfortunately, I do
not find a specific reference to ginkos; perhaps your favorite nursery
can advise you on this or another chemical. The Sunset Western Garden
Guide simply advises not to plant female trees, which advice is too late
for you now...
If you want a copy of the UofA publication, send $1 to
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
tooldye@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a beautiful female gingko tree.
> Every year it produces more and more stinky
> fruits. Is there any way to reduce the amount
> of fruit this plant grows and proceeds to drop
> on my high traffic sidewalk? I've heard rumors
> of a sterilizer for fruit trees, would this
> work for the gingko?
> Would love some help!
> Kim in KC
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:05:14 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:05:14 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] tomatoes in pots
Winter - 1997-8, I had nice tomatoes in pots. Cool weather slows plant
growth and frost can finish it, permanently. Pots tend to be warmer
than the soil and can be moved to shelter from winds or frost. I think
it is late to be trying but March is 3 months (90 days) away. How bad
would it be if you came close but failed? And you would know, next
year.
On Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST) eandrcook@hotmail.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
>I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots
>on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return
>home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next
>year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
>
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:20:53 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:20:53 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Grapes
It is time for grape leaves to fall off the plant for their dormant
season. After this happens is a great time to prune and, or try to
propagate them. If you want to try cuttings, make sure the part
closest to the plant is in the soil with the other end pointed up. As
I cut these, I make the bottom straight and the tops slanted at a sharp
angle. Grapes make wonderful cooling shade! quickly. Do put the
cuttings where you want them to grow because they make lots of roots the
first year and are a nuisance to transplant if you didn't put them in 5
gallon pots. I have Thompson, Ruby and Flame, all seedless.
To help grapes go dormant near Phoenix, I stopped watering mine about
the first of November..... They do look pretty bad until the leaves
drop.
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST) teacher@bmol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and
>were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have
>Flame and Thompson varieties.
>
>
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:14:38 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:14:38 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Before planting my Aleppo and Bottlebrush, I talked to my neighbor and
she thought they would be nice in the place I later planted them (18 feet
south of her house and 9 feet north of mine and about 20 feet between
them)................... they were five gallon size. A year later she
came complaining that the two trees that had been discussed before
planting were going to shade her solar heater, 30 feet north and quite a
bit east of the trees, on the back of her house. I immediately stoped
watering both the Aleppo pine and Bottlebrush. I expected them to die.
It is now 4 years later. In the middle of the summer I collect
roof valley water and put most of it on the Aleppo. The tree has grown
very little and looks fragile but lives on. The bottle brush is about
6 feet tall and blooms.
In the low desert, more than anywhere else in our country, size is a
reflection of water. I would never chose this Aleppo for a Christmas
tree but it is amazing how well this little tree has done with so little
water. Neither tree has an irrigation nozzle within 25 feet of them.
There are no gutters on my house so they get a little extra rain from
the part of my hippish roof aimed in their direction, a triangular area,
perhaps 8 feet deep by 25 feet long.
Now my home is near Phoenix and Tucson is cooler and wetter than
Phoenix. It is very bad to water only one little area of a tree root
ball (roots will grow in that area and perhaps not at all on the other
side of the tree, making it very susceptible to blowing over if the wind
comes from that area where there are no roots.)
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700 "Linda A. Guy"
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested
>evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation
>on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for
>low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our
>Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an
>IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house
>could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of
>services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis.
>Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
>
>It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them.
>They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season.
>But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
>
>Linda Guy
>Master Gardener
>
>earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
>
>> arid_gardener
>> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's
>landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation
>system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low
>maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any
>compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which
>he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually
>interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other
>deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus
>grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>>
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>
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From azpiper@earthlink.net Mon, 13 Dec 1999 16:08:27 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 16:08:27 -0700
From: azpiper@earthlink.net azpiper@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] unscribe
Hi.
Please delete my name from your list.
Thanks.
From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:35:14 EST
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:35:14 EST
From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com
Subject: [AG] White Flies in Greenhouse
My lovely new greenhouse is finally safe from the squirrels but I have a
horrid infestation of white flies that love the balmy weather. Please advise
how to get rid of them and also do you suppose they have laid next years eggs
all over the place too? It is never going to get cold in there. I don't
want to use bud spray - I have lovely tomatoes ripening along with
cauliflower. Thx.
From efountain@access1.net Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST)
From: efountain@access1.net efountain@access1.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
Can you confirm?
Thanks,
Ellen Fountain
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:16:32 EST
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:16:32 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Using softened water for irrigation
Ellen, You are correct. You must have a bypass around the water softener for
irrigation. The salt in the softened water will make short life of most
landscape plants.
Good luck. Rod
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:00:48 -0700
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:00:48 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
The 'brittleness' of your brittlebush is a function of water: I believe you
indicated that these were not being irrigated in any way other than rain fall.
Mine are on a system, hence the blooming and leaf color that is green with a
greyish cast, vs yours which are probably approaching white/grey with little
green. Simply the plants' respective reactions to environment.
The real reason for this response, however, is to share with you the Desert
Botanical Garden Hotline [480-941-1255], available M-F on a limited basis, I
believe from 10 to 11:30 am. They will surely be able to answer your questions
about amending soil for cactus since this is a particular area of expertise for
them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> I am surprised that your brittlebush is blooming now. Mine is showing no
> signs at all of new growth or flowering. It is just, well, brittle. My
> arms are scratched like I've tried to give an alley cat a bath. I think
> I'll try your method. Thanks for the help.
>
> At 05:19 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
> >hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
> >late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
> >little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
> >sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
> >the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
> >
> >If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
> >on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
> >summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
> >mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
> >(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
> >without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
> >
> >As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
> >hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where
> tree
> >roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
> >runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
> >Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
> >(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
> >rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
> >hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
> >bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
> >because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
> >neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
> >You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
> >
> >I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
> >amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
> >the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
> >wild.
> >
> >Good luck!
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >
> >
> >Michael Goldstein wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks for the information.
> >>
> >> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> >> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> >> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> >> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> >> garlic plants.
> >>
> >> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> >> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> >> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> >> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> >> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> >> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> >> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
> >>
> >> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >> >
> >> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >> >
> >> >Good luck,
> >> >Linda Guy
> >> >Master Gardener
> >> >
> >> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> arid_gardener
> >> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> >> how much?
> >> >>
> >> >> _______________________________________________
> >> >> Arid_gardener mailing list
> >> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> >> Archives -
> >> >
> >> >
> >
> >
> Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend.
> Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. - Groucho Marx
From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:05:41 -0700
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:05:41 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Softened water
The water goes into my home in the front next to an exterior water
outlet. This water outlet, in the front is before the water entry to
the home. The entry on the exterior back wall is after entry to my
home. I know this because when I turn off the valve on the pipe below
the front faucet, everything except that front faucet has no water.
The irrigation system is also connected before entry into the home.
Your plumber wants to avoid the expense and work of 2 pipe lines under
your home........ and perhaps you would too.
You can install a cheaper plastic pipeline around the perimeter of your
home and enjoy having unsoftened water for your plants. It is my
opinion that our soil has enough salts already without adding various
other chemicals.
And the cost of softening water is dear in addition to thinking about the
environmental danger.
On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST) efountain@access1.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson
>Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put
>in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I
>asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he
>said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you
>can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use
>softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
>Can you confirm?
>Thanks,
>Ellen Fountain
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From gaye.luna@nau.edu Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST)
From: gaye.luna@nau.edu gaye.luna@nau.edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I live in Surprise and am new to desert vegetation. I am wondering how long (times/week) and how much (minutes) I should water the following yard scrubbery during the winter months:
(1) Evergreen Elms (5 years old)
(2) Lantana (5 years old)
(3) Bankor Red Bouganvilla (planted 1 1/2 months ago)
(4) Rose bushes (5 years old)
They are all on the same drip system, unfortunately, so would need some advice on times and length to accommodate all these plants.
Thank you,
From ppiercy@primenet.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST)
From: ppiercy@primenet.com ppiercy@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
From jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:44:01 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:44:01 -0700 (MST)
From: jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a light frost, what is the best method to rcover a vegetable garden? E.G., water immediately to melt light frost, wait for the sun to warm, space heater?
Thx, Jim
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:10:50 -0700
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:10:50 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Free Lemon Booklets
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Grown has a booklet available this month titled "150 Ways to Use
Lemons"
from Sunkist. Callers will also receive this month's list of fruits and
vegetables being harvested in Arizona. Call: 888-PICKED-4-U (888-742-5334).
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Grown has a booklet available this
month titled "150 Ways to Use Lemons" from Sunkist.
Callers will also receive this month's list of fruits and vegetables
being harvested in Arizona. Call: 888-PICKED-4-U
(888-742-5334).
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:48:42 EST
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:48:42 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Watering Trees and Shrubs
For the months of Dec.,Jan., and Feb. deep water the trees once per month;
deep water the shrubs once every two to three week.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck. Rod
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:58:47 -0700
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:58:47 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Recycle your Christmas tree
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful again will provide opportunities for
residents to recycle Christmas trees. Fourteen city parks will accept single
trees from residents from 8 am to 6 pm any days between Monday, Dec. 27 and
Sunday, Jan. 9.
Each area will have collection bins, trucks or chippers to convert trees into
mulch for use on city projects. Last year about 100,000 trees were recycled.
The sites are:
North Central South
Deer Valley Park Marivue Park
El Reposo Park
19th Ave/Utopia Road Osborn Rd/55th Ave
Alta Vista Rd/7th St
Sereno Park Washington Park
Mountain Vista Park
Sweetwater Ave/56th St Maryland/23rd Ave
48th St/Knox Rd
Paradise Valley Park Madison Park
Desert Foothills Park
40th St, South of Union Hills Rd Glenrosa Ave/16th St
Desert Foothills Pkwy/Chandler Blvd
Cactus Park Los Olivos Park
El Prado Park
Cactus Rd/39th Ave Devonshire Ave/28th St
6428 S. 19th Ave
Mountain View Park Desert West Park
Peoria/7th Ave Encanto Blvd/67th Ave
Trees also may be left at the city's two landfills, 27th ave and Lower
Buckeye Rd, Monday through Saturday, or any day at 31st Ave and Happy valley
Rd. Landfill hours are 5:30 am to 5:00 pm weekdays and 8 am to 4 pm on
Saturdays. The service is free to Phoenix residents who drop off one tree.
A to Z Equipment Rentals & Sales also will accept trees at no charge
from 9 am to 4 pm Dec. 27 through Jan 7 and 9 am to 2 pm. Stores are located
at 4050 E. Indian School Rd and 15634 N. 32nd St.
Donate a living tree to a park or school, call the Parks,
Recreation and
Library Department at 602-253-2687.
Collection event partners with the city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful
include A to Z Equipment Rentals & Sales, Arizona Public Service Co, Bashas',
Coca Cola Bottling Co and Kalil Bottling Co. For more information, call
602-262-7251.
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful again will provide opportunities
for residents to recycle Christmas trees. Fourteen city parks will
accept single trees from residents from 8 am to 6 pm any days between
Monday, Dec. 27 and Sunday, Jan. 9.
Each area will have collection bins, trucks or chippers to convert trees
into mulch for use on city projects. Last year about 100,000 trees
were recycled.
The sites are:
North Central South
Deer Valley
Park Marivue
Park El
Reposo Park
19th Ave/Utopia
Road Osborn
Rd/55th
Ave Alta
Vista Rd/7th St
Sereno
Park Washington
Park Mountain
Vista Park
Sweetwater Ave/56th
St Maryland/23rd
Ave 48th
St/Knox Rd
Paradise Valley
Park Madison
Park Desert
Foothills Park
40th St, South of Union Hills
Rd Glenrosa
Ave/16th
St Desert
Foothills Pkwy/Chandler Blvd
Cactus
Park Los
Olivos
Park El
Prado Park
Cactus Rd/39th
Ave Devonshire
Ave/28th
St 6428
S. 19th Ave
Mountain View
Park Desert
West Park
Peoria/7th
Ave Encanto
Blvd/67th Ave
Trees also
may be left at the city's two landfills, 27th ave and Lower Buckeye Rd,
Monday through Saturday, or any day at 31st Ave and Happy valley
Rd. Landfill hours are 5:30 am to 5:00 pm weekdays and 8 am to 4 pm
on Saturdays. The service is free to Phoenix residents who drop off
one tree.
A to Z
Equipment Rentals & Sales also will accept trees at no charge from 9
am to 4 pm Dec. 27 through Jan 7 and 9 am to 2 pm. Stores are
located at 4050 E. Indian School Rd and 15634 N. 32nd St.
Donate a
living tree to a park or school, call the Parks, Recreation and Library
Department at 602-253-2687.
Collection
event partners with the city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful include A to
Z Equipment Rentals & Sales, Arizona Public Service Co, Bashas', Coca
Cola Bottling Co and Kalil Bottling Co. For more information, call
602-262-7251.
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT--
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:04:04 -0700
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:04:04 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: desert varieties
Most vegetables that you grew anywhere else can be grown here.
Butternut squash does better than Acorn squash. Rhubarb, horseradish
and raspberries are very difficult ~ I've seen no one succeed with them.
The Maricopa County Cooperative Extension at 4341 E. Broadway Road has
many brochures that can help you. There is a Northwest Valley Satellite
Office at 13816 Camino del Sol, Sun City West. You need to go, sit
down, and discuss your need for specific information.
George Brookbank, from Tuscon, has written 2 helpful books that you can
pick up from the library or book store. Desert Gardening is about
vegetables. Desert Landscaping is about other plants at home. Both
books have a handy monthly suggestion list in the back for what to do
during each month. Gardening here is delightful but very different
from any where else you've ever been. Birds and rabbits are hungary
and thirsty. Staking plants exposes them to the hot dry wind. Water,
soil and temperatures are different. You may want to take the Master
Gardener course ~ it certainly was one of the best investments I made
when I got here.
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST) ppiercy@primenet.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the
>Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of
>pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 15 Dec 1999 07:53:48 -0700
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 07:53:48 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: watering
All of your plants will do well with water once a week in the winter and
that may be the easiest way to set your timer...... mine will not set for
less often than that. However, you can turn it off entirely or adjust
individual nozzles.
The dormant Bouganvilla does not need any water applied in the winter if
it is an established plant or at most, once a month. The Elm needs
the most water in the summer. And the roses will need water twice a
week in the summer. This can be done with a hose........
When water is applied, make sure that it is enough water to get the
plant roots wet and then allow the soil to dry out before water is
applied again. Keeping soil wet all the time causes fungus infections
to thrive. Giving too little water will cause your plants to dry out,
grow slow, and is easy to see.
Think about the rain pattern in the area of the country where you came
from..... Rain happened once a week to once in 2 weeks and that works
well here for applying water. Too many people new to the desert keep
their soil wet all the time. This wastes water, causes the plants to
grow in unnatural ways and infects their soil with fungus that wouldn't
get so strong if the soil could only dry out occasionally.
In the summer heat, plants can only take up water according to their
root strength.......... Plants watered too often have poor root structure
and often fail in spite (and perhaps because) of vast amounts of water
poured on at that time.
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST) gaye.luna@nau.edu writes:
>arid_gardener
>I live in Surprise and am new to desert vegetation. I am wondering
>how long (times/week) and how much (minutes) I should water the
>following yard scrubbery during the winter months:
>(1) Evergreen Elms (5 years old)
>(2) Lantana (5 years old)
>(3) Bankor Red Bouganvilla (planted 1 1/2 months ago)
>(4) Rose bushes (5 years old)
>
>They are all on the same drip system, unfortunately, so would need
>some advice on times and length to accommodate all these plants.
>
>Thank you,
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:32:19 -0700
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:32:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Vegetables and Flowers for Phoenix
There are several items that can help you. First is the Timely Tips section of our Home Horticulture page which is reached at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
This will show you what can be planted by seed, bulb or transplant by month.
Another possibility is our Master Gardener Press book, Desert Gardening for Beginners
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm
which has many planting calendar charts in the appendix section.
Maricopa County Horticultural publications are listed on the website, too. Some may have to be ordered, but others are online. One is AZ 1005 a Vegetable Planting Calendar:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf
Another is for flowers AZ1100
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf
This should be ample material for you to commence your gardening adventures. Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ppiercy@primenet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From dougjo@aol.com Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:42:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:42:34 -0700 (MST)
From: dougjo@aol.com dougjo@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
Is this sound advice?
Thanks,
Doug
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:44:02 -0700
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:44:02 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] White Flies in Greenhouse
Vivid yellow paper or cardboard smeared with petroleum jelly or similar sticky
substance on both sides placed around the greenhouse will prove irresistable to
your whiteflies which will stick thereon! You will have to replace the papers
when they are filled with the insects, probably more frequently at the beginning.
If you don't want to make them (although it's truly very easy), many nurseries
and gardening catalogs sell them.
If my memory serves me, someone tested the efficacy of various dish soaps and
Dawn came up with superior marks in this spray formula:
Use one teaspoon to 2 tablespoons of liquid detergent soap per gallon of water
(not extra concentrated types, however, nor soaps which contain citrus acids
which may burn plants). Spray to coat insects, making sure leaf underside
surfaces are also treated. Start with smaller amount of soap and work up to 2 T.
One thing to watch for is is leaf burn, depending on the temperature of your
greenhouse. I would personally start with the 'white'fly paper strategy first.
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My lovely new greenhouse is finally safe from the squirrels but I have a
> horrid infestation of white flies that love the balmy weather. Please advise
> how to get rid of them and also do you suppose they have laid next years eggs
> all over the place too? It is never going to get cold in there. I don't
> want to use bud spray - I have lovely tomatoes ripening along with
> cauliflower. Thx.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:00:07 -0700
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:00:07 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Restoring Palm Trees
Hi Doug,
I recommend Epsom salts, which are magnesium sulfate, for my 'human' clients to soak in. However, I'm sceptical of applying a salt solution in our environment for which soil salts are already a problem. I don't KNOW that this won't work. But what happens if your
palms' nutritional deficiency is not magnesium?
Palms most often suffer from lack of nitrogen in our area; when insufficient, older fronds are pale green or yellow. Potassium deficiency (older leaves are yellow, including midrib) or magnesium deficiency (yellow older leaves but central vein is still green)
are also possible problems.
Preventative fertilization keeps the palms lush and green; once the leaves are yellowed they cannot be restored. There are special palm fertilizers which address this tree's specific needs, including other micronutrients like iron, sulfur, zinc, copper, etc. I'd
be more inclined to check into these first. However, I don't believe I would do this weekly in this slow growth season. Under normal circumstances, palms are fertilized in midspring and early summer.
Also, check out our Arizona Landscape Palms publication AZ1021 at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dougjo@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:08:47 -0700
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:08:47 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Restoring Palm Trees
Hi Doug,
Just to clarify: In the following paragraph of my original response, I
did not mean to imply that the tree itself could not be restored; I was
referring specifically to those leaves that have become discolored:
"Preventative fertilization keeps the palms lush and green; once the
leaves are yellowed they cannot be restored. There are special palm
fertilizers which address this tree's specific needs...."
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dougjo@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:13:38 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:13:38 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Evergreens for Tucson Area
Hi again, Elizabeth,
It will be important for you to ensure that the Arizona Cypress (cupressus arizonica) is INDEED a dwarf variety. The standard tree grows to 40', spreading to 20' which makes it excellent for windbreaks. They grow fast and don't typically need water after being established. [Aforementioned from Sunset Western Garden Book, p. 252.] I would also ask the nursery how big the dwarf gets because the smallest dimensions I saw for this tree is 20 to 25'. You may be putting your dad into a regular pruning/maintenance situation that he cannot handle.
The Sunset guide does not recommend Monterey Cypress for either Phoenix (we are zone 13 in their book) or Tucson (considered as zone 12). They only recommend the Monterey for their zone 17, which is northern California coastal climate. The Italian cypress would be a better choice. Remember it can grow very tall (to 60'), although it is slender.
It sounds like you have a good nursery to consult. How about your local County Extension Office, too? They would know your plant material pallette better than we in Maricopa County.
Best of luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Elizabeth Rathbun wrote:
> Thanks for the information about the Aleppo Pine. My father would be unable to take care of a large tree like that one. Maybe they might come up with a dwarf version one of these days. That would be nice.
>
> A grower recommended two types of plants that I could try: dwarf Arizona Cypress (Which are hard to find) and other varieties of Monterrey Cypress which don't grow as large. Some look like low junipers and others resemble Italian Cypress. I've never noticed those in Tucson, however, I'm going to check what they have at my favorite Tucson nursery - the Mesquite Valley Grower. They usually know what can grow there, and what can't. Some of these gourmet conifers might just burn like toast in the hot sun!
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > > Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:26:11 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:26:11 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Fountain Grass
I have not yet seen a response to your query and, although I can't
specifically answer your question, I would like to guide you to an
answer the best I can. Several months ago, the gardening section
(Saturday Home Section) of the Arizona Republic ran a wonderful article
on ornamental grasses. You could try the archival function on their
website (www.azcentral.com) to try to locate it, or otherwise contact
the garden editor by phone (602/444-8000 is the general PN).
Unless you have a variety that does not set seed, many types of
ornamental grass seed themselves fairly freely, which may eventually
crowd out other plant material. During the growing season, you might
also consider keeping the plumes pruned before the seeds mature, if this
becomes a problem for you.
Good luck,
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do you prune purple fountain grass?
> 1. Mass straight across cut-back
> 2. Thin out old
> 3. Cut out pie section
>
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:29:59 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:29:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I'm having a tough time researching your question. Do you have the botanical name for your plant just to make sure we are looking up the correct species? I'm not at all familiar with your tree, but there may still be another Master Gardener online who is.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Jenfloy@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I planted a saphire dragon tree back in October and it's only grown to about 4 feet tall. The info sheet that came with it says that if the tree doesn't make 5 feet by the first frost then you are to cut it back and wait till the spring. I will I know that I need to cut it back? Will it just go brown and dry up? I do I know that it didn't get tall enough?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:47:16 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:47:16 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Purple Fountain Grass
Dear Arid Gardener
The Purple Fountain Grass does not set any seed - it is a sterile plant -
so that you do not have to worry about new seedlings cropping up around your
yard and taking things over. Usually once a year, in the early spring
the plant is shaved off at about a 4-6 inch height in order to remove the
older, dead flowers and leaves and to stimulate new growth.
Once your plant is older and larger, you can split it to produce more plants
if you need more of these in your landscape. Just dig off a chunk of the
root ball, or crown of the plant and transplant to the new spot.
The green variety of fountain grass does reseed very readily and can become
a serious nuisance in your yard, neighbors yards, etc. with aggressive new
seedlings cropping up all over. In fact, the State is considering
legislation to prohibit sales of the green variety in Arizona since it has
started to invade our Mountain parks the last couple of years. Stay clear
of this green variety, and stick with the purple..
mike hills
Volunteer Master Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Linda A. Guy
To: jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: [AG] Pruning Fountain Grass
>arid_gardener
>I have not yet seen a response to your query and, although I can't
>specifically answer your question, I would like to guide you to an
>answer the best I can. Several months ago, the gardening section
>(Saturday Home Section) of the Arizona Republic ran a wonderful article
>on ornamental grasses. You could try the archival function on their
>website (www.azcentral.com) to try to locate it, or otherwise contact
>the garden editor by phone (602/444-8000 is the general PN).
>
>Unless you have a variety that does not set seed, many types of
>ornamental grass seed themselves fairly freely, which may eventually
>crowd out other plant material. During the growing season, you might
>also consider keeping the plumes pruned before the seeds mature, if this
>becomes a problem for you.
>
>Good luck,
>Linda Guy,
>Master Gardener
>
>jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> arid_gardener
>> How do you prune purple fountain grass?
>> 1. Mass straight across cut-back
>> 2. Thin out old
>> 3. Cut out pie section
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Arid_gardener mailing list
>> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>> Archives -
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From ehpierce@home.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:15:28 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:15:28 -0700 (MST)
From: ehpierce@home.com ehpierce@home.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the best type of sod to lay for the Phoenix area summers.
From willa@gardenpod.com Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:32:14 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:32:14 -0700 (MST)
From: willa@gardenpod.com willa@gardenpod.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'm from Oregon and wanted to know about the differences in your growing seasons for indoor gardening...using greenhouses. What months do gardeners have to either move their gardening inside or not garden at all?
From jdebolske@aol.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:45:29 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:45:29 -0700 (MST)
From: jdebolske@aol.com jdebolske@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do keep clover from growing in the winter in a bermuda grass lawn?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:06:01 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:06:01 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Palms
I would not put added bone meal on a palm; somewhere I read that the
middle number on the fertilizer bag for palms should be low and that is
exactly what is in bone meal or super phosphate {which, if used at all,
should always be placed near the roots since it doesn't move with water}.
I would use a good palm fertilizer, which can be gotten at any
nursery and apply it no more than 3 times a year during warm weather.
Perhaps a little chelated iron for yellow leaves on some plants that
have been watered too much too often. It is not a good idea to throw a
lot of fertilizer on sick plants. Every 2 weeks during dormant growth
periods (winter = dormant palm growth) is certainly a lot of fertilizer!
On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:42:34 -0700 (MST) dougjo@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two
>pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak
>WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood
>meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From gjblackham@aol.com Sat, 18 Dec 1999 07:16:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 07:16:19 -0700 (MST)
From: gjblackham@aol.com gjblackham@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am trying to get information on container gardening; flowers and greenery, not vegtables. I would like what will grow well during the summer and winter in full sun and shade. I am having a difficult time getting this information. Thank you Sharon Blackham
From craryville@flinet.com Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:06:20 -0700
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:06:20 -0700
From: Leonard Faust craryville@flinet.com
Subject: [AG] Needed information
I understand that Dorsett can be used to increase the Anna crop, but can
Anna be used to pollinate Dorsetts? Leonard Faust South
Florida
From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 18 Dec 1999 20:39:46 -0700
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 20:39:46 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Dear colleagues,
Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical name
[mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was having
trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the challenge
and assist him?
Regards,
Linda Guy, MG
JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
> The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an ornamental
> variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this because a
> couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended up
> fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner but
> it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week prior
> (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not knowing
> how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> Thanks for your efforts so far.
> eric
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 19 Dec 1999 15:19:15 -0700
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 15:19:15 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Free Goldfish
Two years ago I decided to populate my backyard pond with a dozen
refugees from the feeder fish tank at the local tropical fish store
[hey, at 10 for $1 it was a screaming deal]. Overwhelmed by their second
lease on life and obviously desiring to make the most of their remaining
days, my little ones have gone forth and multiplied. I am culling the
school [who am I kidding? I take whatever I can catch.] and have now at
least a dozen gold fish, hopefully more, to pass on [free of course] to
a good home.
These are your 'garden variety' goldfish, mostly orange, some white,
some bicolored; some even pregnant! Beautiful fancy tails though. They
are not accustomed to being fed, and forage for themselves. Smallest is
3.5 inches, most in the 4-5 inch range. I believe they could still come
indoors as denizens of a larger bowl or tank, but someone else's pond is
also a possibility. Don't confuse these with koi, which are ravenous
vegetarians and eat everything in sight. I'm only losing some plant
material now because of MY poor herd management practices!
Any takers? Don't you think they'd make a GREAT stocking stuffer? I'm
partial to my little fellas, and, anyway, it's too early to be putting
one under each seed of corn in the garden......
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
Arcadia Neighborhood of Phoenix
602/852-0738
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:08:33 -0700
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:08:33 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in Cottonwood.
Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there URL:
http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
"Linda A. Guy" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Dear colleagues,
>
> Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical name
> [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was having
> trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the challenge
> and assist him?
>
> Regards,
> Linda Guy, MG
>
> JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
>
> > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an ornamental
> > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this because a
> > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended up
> > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner but
> > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week prior
> > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not knowing
> > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > eric
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mbell29@prodigy.net Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:11:36 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:11:36 -0700 (MST)
From: mbell29@prodigy.net mbell29@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura (thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along roadssides)?
From mbell29@prodigy.net Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:02:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:02:56 -0700 (MST)
From: mbell29@prodigy.net mbell29@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am interested in growing and roasting chilis at home in Tempe. I love roasted New Mexico chilis. Is there a variety of chili that can be used for this purpose that will do well in our climate? I understand that jalapenos are hotter than New Mexicos and might be too hot.
From ABELS@aol.com Sun, 19 Dec 1999 23:36:30 EST
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 23:36:30 EST
From: ABELS@aol.com ABELS@aol.com
Subject: [AG] nose dive....
Please set me at "no mail" since my hard drive is taking a nose dive....when
I get the problem settled, I'll be back.
thanks,
Robyn Abels
From cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Mon, 20 Dec 1999 08:58:15 -0700
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 08:58:15 -0700
From: Jones, Chris cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I would be quite concerned about planting Paulownia kawakami, with such a
fancy name as Sapphire Dragon tree. Note below that JENFLOY says P.
tomentosa grows wild in the eastern states (is it native?). There is a good
chance that it is an invasive tree if the conditions are right, and all we
need in Ariz. is another salt cedar, tamarix, tree-of-heaven, Siberian elm
or Russian olive!
Please research the growing habits of this species, suckering, seeding, etc.
before propagating it around the state! As Master Gardeners, we can read the
website below and see incredible claims - very fast growing trees are
usually very weak trees. Deep straight taproots? where are we taught that
tree roots grow?
Paulownia is probably an appropriate tree for poor Chinese peasants who must
practice agroforesty just to simply live from day to day. As a U.S.
homeowner, please be cautious and environmentally conscious.
I'll be happy to retract my warnings if someone can show credibly that this
genus and its commercial species are not invasive at any of the
environmental settings of Arizona.
"If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is."
Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
The University of Arizona
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ 85501
Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:09 PM
To: JENFLOY@aol.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: Re: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
arid_gardener
I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in
Cottonwood.
Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there
URL:
http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
"Linda A. Guy" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Dear colleagues,
>
> Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical
name
> [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was
having
> trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the
challenge
> and assist him?
>
> Regards,
> Linda Guy, MG
>
> JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
>
> > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an
ornamental
> > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this
because a
> > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended
up
> > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner
but
> > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week
prior
> > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not
knowing
> > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > eric
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives -
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 20 Dec 1999 11:50:23 EST
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 11:50:23 EST
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Hi,
I looked up Paulownia in The American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of
Garden Plants. It gives information about several of the varieties
mentioned. It also has a picture of one of the varieties in full bloom. I
didn't find anything mentioned that would give me the impression that it
might become a problem. This is only one reference but one that I have
confidence.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 20 Dec 1999 15:09:55 -0700
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 15:09:55 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Chris:
I agree with you 100%. I read the website and personally, I wouldn't plant
one. It sounds like it could turn into another Kudzu. But, I didn't feel it
was my place to be too preachy on a tree that I have limited information on.
Especially as a voluntter. As an extension agent, perhaps you would like to
respond to them. There isn't a lot of info available on kawakami. If they
already have one, I just figured it was the only place they were going to get
any additional information on it.
Happy Holidays!
Sue Bass
"Jones, Chris" wrote:
> I would be quite concerned about planting Paulownia kawakami, with such a
> fancy name as Sapphire Dragon tree. Note below that JENFLOY says P.
> tomentosa grows wild in the eastern states (is it native?). There is a good
> chance that it is an invasive tree if the conditions are right, and all we
> need in Ariz. is another salt cedar, tamarix, tree-of-heaven, Siberian elm
> or Russian olive!
>
> Please research the growing habits of this species, suckering, seeding, etc.
> before propagating it around the state! As Master Gardeners, we can read the
> website below and see incredible claims - very fast growing trees are
> usually very weak trees. Deep straight taproots? where are we taught that
> tree roots grow?
>
> Paulownia is probably an appropriate tree for poor Chinese peasants who must
> practice agroforesty just to simply live from day to day. As a U.S.
> homeowner, please be cautious and environmentally conscious.
>
> I'll be happy to retract my warnings if someone can show credibly that this
> genus and its commercial species are not invasive at any of the
> environmental settings of Arizona.
>
> "If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is."
>
> Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
> Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
>
> The University of Arizona
> Gila County Cooperative Extension
> 1177 Monroe Street
> Globe, AZ 85501
>
> Ph: (520) 425-7179
> FAX: (520) 425-0265
> E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:09 PM
> To: JENFLOY@aol.com
> Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> Subject: Re: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
>
> arid_gardener
> I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in
> Cottonwood.
> Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there
> URL:
> http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
> Good Luck!
> Sue Bass
> Master Gardener
>
> "Linda A. Guy" wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > Dear colleagues,
> >
> > Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical
> name
> > [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was
> having
> > trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the
> challenge
> > and assist him?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Linda Guy, MG
> >
> > JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an
> ornamental
> > > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this
> because a
> > > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended
> up
> > > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner
> but
> > > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week
> prior
> > > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not
> knowing
> > > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > > eric
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From Jessica.schepler@usa.net Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:09:38 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:09:38 -0700 (MST)
From: Jessica.schepler@usa.net Jessica.schepler@usa.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I planted my first garden this past year and couldn't bear to pull up my tomatoes because they still had so many fruit. I have about 30 plus green tomatoes that are just now beginning to ripen. Contrary to what everyone has told me, I just threw some clear plastic over them and they appear to be doing quite well. In fact, the plants are still flowering producing new fruit, and one of thje green tomatoes just ripened fully this week! Do I have to pull these plants up and put in new plants in order to get a new crop of tomatoes for the upcoming season, or will my old plants continue to produce indefinately? I have heard some people say they keep the same plants and just cut back the vines, but I have heard others say the plants (regardless of variety) do not continue to produce indefinately and must be pulled up. I live in Mesa and have 1 large earlygirl variety and two patio tomatoe plants. Thanks for the info! Jessica
From cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:05:19 -0700
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:05:19 -0700
From: Jones, Chris cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: [AG] FW: sapphire dragon
Thank you for the article below. John Begeman is credible and I'm glad you
saved the article. He shares again from his experience that P. tomentosa
naturalized throughout the Southeast. I think our biggest threat from P.
kawakami would be inadvertently letting seeds get established in any of
Arizona's riparian areas where it may be able to propagate on its own.
John's article shows it probably won't make it in desert, and would be quite
a water-guzzler in the garden.
My quick internet search right now didn't turn up much on this species'
culture either, but the Bushland Weeds Education Group of Sidney, Australia
http://www.zip.com.au/~aabr/weed_lists/weed1.html didn't recommend it for
landscape settings either.
Remember our hallowed American business philosophy, Caveat emptor!
Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
The University of Arizona
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ 85501
Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: SWymer@aol.com [mailto:SWymer@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 9:53 AM
To: cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: sapphire dragon
Mr Jones - you are right about sapphire dragon trees. I sent a copy of
tghe
below article to both sjbass@uswest.net and jenfloy
FYI - John Begeman, Extension Agent in Tucson, wrote the following about
two
years ago:
Think twice before planting sapphire
dragon trees here
Sunday, 18 January 1998
HOME 1H
By John Begeman, Special to The Arizona Daily Star
THE ARIZONA DAILY STAR
COLUMN
I have received numerous inquiries during the past few months about a
new variety of tree sold at retail garden centers here in Tucson.
It's also available by mail through several internet sites. Its
exotic-sounding
name is the sapphire dragon tree.
I knew nothing about this tree in the beginning.
Looking through my reference books on plants, landscaping, horticulture,
and botany, I could find no such plant listed. But though information
supplied by retailers, I came up with its real name: Paulownia kawakamii.
Paulownia is a group of deciduous flowering trees, the most well known of
which is the Empress tree, Paulownia tomentosa. From my days in Florida,
I remember it as an ornamental tree grown and naturalized in the
Southeast, particularly north Florida, Alabama, Georgia and the Carolinas.
As a landscape tree it was valued for its showy violet, trumpet-shaped
flower clusters and unusually large, heart-shaped leaves.
Paulownia kawakamii, the sapphire dragon tree, is similar to tomentosa in
flower color, leaf size (1 foot across), and fast growth. According to ads,
the sapphire dragon tree can reach 10 feet high the first year, 15 feet the
second, and 25 feet the third. As you can imagine, this fast growth rate
makes the tree ideal for timber production. Paulownia tree plantations are
throughout Asia, South America and even in the United States.
The sapphire dragon tree and other Paulownias are well suited for
bio-mass production, but as a landscape tree, it may be less than ideal.
To maintain a dense canopy of leaves for shade, the tree should be heavily
pruned every year or every other year. If allowed to grow naturally, the
tree will become rather leggy, with wide-spaced branches and thin foliage.
Moisture loss through large leaves is significant, requiring frequent
watering
during the growing season.
Although it is unknown how the sapphire dragon tree responds to our
desert conditions, an indication may come by looking at the environment
where the tree is native: China, Japan and Taiwan.
In Taiwan, annual rainfall is abundant, exceeding 40 inches annually. The
climate is maritime, and the air is moist throughout the year. Although
subtropical with warm summers, those temperatures seldom exceed 95
degrees. Winters are mild, with temperatures rarely lower than 40 degrees.
Contrast this with Tucson; well, you know the story - it's a dry heat, for
much of the year.
Another cause for concern with the dragon tree is its requirement of deep,
well drained, acid soils; this according to researchers at the Virginia
Tech
Department of Forestry. They also state that the tree does poorest on
heavy clay compacted soils, which we have an abundance of in Tucson. A
requirement for acid soils may, in itself, eliminate the tree from
consideration for planting here. Our soils are very alkaline. Try growing
an
acid-loving gardenia and you'll find it nearly impossible to keep it green
and growing, let alone producing flowers.
If this sounds like less than a glowing endorsement of the sapphire dragon
tree, you're right. The requirements this tree needs to successfully grow
are
all the ones we don't have in Tucson. I know lots of people who bring
plants from ``back home'' and try nursing them along for a year or so
before they finally die. But look at all the wasted time, money and effort.
Our unique and challenging desert environment calls for trees that are up
to
the challenge. These are the ``tried-and-true'' native and desert adapted
palo verdes, mesquites and acacias, among others. I doubt that the
sapphire dragon tree has what it takes to join this rather exclusive list.
TREE HELP
How to prune trees and shrubs will be demonstrated at the Pima County
Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave., at 9 a.m. Wednesday. If you
have a gardening question, call its Plant Clinic, weekdays 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
at 626-5161.
John Begeman is the horticulture agent for the University of
Arizona's Pima County Cooperative Extension.
From fil2145@AOL.com Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:18:09 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:18:09 -0700 (MST)
From: fil2145@AOL.com fil2145@AOL.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the best varity of pecan tree to plant in the Higley, Az. area? Where can you buy them as a bare root?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:26:16 -0700
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:26:16 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Collecting seed
When you see a plant that is blooming, you can stop, watch for creatures
and older bloom that has set seed. You may have to come back in another
week or pick seed off the ground. And, always label, it is frustrating
to have several envelopes of unknown seed and even worse if you want to
germinate it in your garden and don't know how long to leave the ground
expectant. In the wild, taking a small amount of seed is not such a bad
thing as digging up the plant would be. And you can have the adventure
and future bragging rights of having started your own.
Sometimes it takes a while for these things to get exactly the right
start. I find that a small pot on top of my freezer eventually will
start almost anything. A film over the top helps keep it from drying
out (remove if mold starts) and the gentle bottom heat from the
refrigerator or freezer speeds germination.
On Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:11:36 -0700 (MST) mbell29@prodigy.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura
>(thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along
>roadssides)?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:33:34 -0700
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:33:34 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: peppers
All varieties of Peppers do very well near Phoenix. A light summer
shade helps them survive the summer. They do well from February to
late May and again in September to November. I've had plants live a
couple of years before dying. You could start them from seed now on top
of your refrigerator and slip them into pots after the holidays. It you
plant them out before late February, they will need a wall o water or
other frost protection.
Removing the seed helps peppers be milder than if you use the entire
fruit. They are a pretty plant: vivid green leaves, erect growth habit
(brittle so if they are near a path, provide some support to protect from
trafic), pretty fruit. I would like them behind flowers and have this
picture in my brain of an asparagus hedge farthest back, peppers in front
with low growing petunias and alysum in front. Why not?
On Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:02:56 -0700 (MST) mbell29@prodigy.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am interested in growing and roasting chilis at home in Tempe. I
>love roasted New Mexico chilis. Is there a variety of chili that can
>be used for this purpose that will do well in our climate? I
>understand that jalapenos are hotter than New Mexicos and might be too
>hot.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:21:57 -0700
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:21:57 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] sod question
The best turfgrass for the low deserts is any variety of bermudagrass.
These come as seeded varieties and as sodded varieties (no seed). In
general, the sod varieties are tighter and more dense than the seeded
varieties and most of the sod bermuda varieties do not produce pollen on
their blooms.
Among the sodded bermudas, their are quite a few varieties available that
differ mainly in the amount of care and maintenance that they require.
All the way from the varieties suited for putting greens that require mowing
1-2 times per days every day at less than 1/4 inch heights to remain
healthy, all the way to taller growing, easier to maintain varieties more
suited to parks and sports fields.
Specific varieties recommended really depends on what is available at your
local nursery or garden center and how much care and maintenance you plan to
perform. Also, some varieties are better maintained with a reel mower,
while others can be cared for with either rotary or reel mowers. Check
with your local garden center or nursery and have in mind your answers to
their questions.
You can also purchase bermuda sod to lay down now - it is overseeded with
ryegrass for winter color and the underlying bermuda sod is dormant. The
bermuda will root in over the winter and when warmer temperatures return in
spring, the bermuda comes back out of dormancy and greens up - the ryegrass
fades out as temperatures climb and usually by May or June, you have a
bermuda turf established. The garden center or nursery can give you
literature sheets on planting, care and maintenance.
Hope this is helpful. If you have more specific questions you can check
in the yellow pages under sod and contact direct the area sod farms. They
can also advise you of where specific sod varieties are available locally.
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener
***********************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: ehpierce@home.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:36 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>What is the best type of sod to lay for the Phoenix area summers.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:41:56 -0700
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:41:56 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: Fw: [AG] Merimia & Datura Question
Carolyn and Carole - we still have some seed packets for the Merimia
stashed at the extension office and I have some new packets of the datura
seed ready for spring sale, so let me know when and if this check shows up
and we can get them sent out.
mike hills
**************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Hills
To: mbell29@prodigy.net
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AG] Merimia & Datura Question
>Hello - these plants are occasionally available at the seasonal plant
>sales at our three low elevation botanical gardens - Desert Botanical
Garden
>(Phoenix), Boyce Thompson Arboretum (Superior) and Tucson Botanical Garden.
>
>If you would like to try some seeds next spring as weather warms up, send a
>Check for $5.00 made out to University of Arizona. Send to Maricopa
>County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - send
>attention: Carolyn Chard. Include a copy of this email for reference.
>We can mail you a packet of each seed from our Master Gardener Volunteers.
>We had these for sale at our fall and Spring Garden Fairs and still have
>some seed packets available.
>
>Merimia - Mexican Morning Glory
>Datura - Desert Thornapple
>
>Mike hills
>Volunteer Master Gardener
>
>*********************
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mbell29@prodigy.net
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 9:33 PM
>Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>>arid_gardener
>>Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura
>(thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along roadssides)?
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Arid_gardener mailing list
>>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>>Archives -
>>
>
>
From dukedpyle@mindspring.com Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:37:09 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:37:09 -0700 (MST)
From: dukedpyle@mindspring.com dukedpyle@mindspring.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am newly relocated from Indiana! We have
a track home in North Scottsdale and the
only place we can put our garden is on the
East side of our home, next to the house.
Will this be OK for a small organic garden??!!
What base and soil should I try and what
vegitables should I start with??? Please
help!!
From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 21 Dec 1999 06:17:08 -0700
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 06:17:08 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Perennial vegetables.
Keep them as long as they are doing well. They eventually will become
less productive, probably because they use up trace minerals in the spot
they have their roots. You will want to rotate where they grow.
Tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers can be kept from year to year if they
don't get a hard frost damage in the winter. The combination of hot
temperatures and white flies usually makes them so weak in the summer
that their vigor is gone by September (tomatoes, that is).
The eggplant and pepper do better with summer. In my reading this
week, asparagus is apparently an anti-nematode for tomatoes. Some of
these companion plantings must work for similar reasons. Gardening here
is such a pleasure: few weeds, two growing seasons...............
rest in the middle.
Greenhouses are often made of plastic. I think what the advisors have
in mind, with not using plastic as a cold protectant, is that there needs
to be support other than the plant to keep the plastic off leaves to give
air space to actually insulate against the cold. You have found a good
method to protect your tomatoes. And they also need ventilation which
might not happen if the plastic is too close to the plant. Go with
what works for you. If it eventually fails, improve on it and share
your information so the rest of us don't make the same mistakes. Happy
Holidays.
On Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:09:38 -0700 (MST) Jessica.schepler@usa.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>I planted my first garden this past year and couldn't bear to pull up
>my tomatoes because they still had so many fruit. I have about 30
>plus green tomatoes that are just now beginning to ripen. Contrary to
>what everyone has told me, I just threw some clear plastic over them
>and they appear to be doing quite well. In fact, the plants are still
>flowering producing new fruit, and one of thje green tomatoes just
>ripened fully this week! Do I have to pull these plants up and put in
>new plants in order to get a new crop of tomatoes for the upcoming
>season, or will my old plants continue to produce indefinately? I
>have heard some people say they keep the same plants and just cut back
>the vines, but I have heard others say the plants (regardless of
>variety) do not continue to produce indefinately and must be pulled
>up. I live in Mesa and have 1 large earlygirl variety and two patio
>tomatoe plants. Thanks for the info! Jessica
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From mike.todd@asu.edu Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
Hi there:
Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka garbanzos)
in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've been
having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos in
these parts. Thanks.
-mike t.
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 22 Dec 1999 05:43:35 -0700
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 05:43:35 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: garden location
You will find that location east of your home very good for the low
desert. The early sun is the gentlest and allows any dew (a rare thing)
to dry early in the day. As the sun gets more intense your plants will
be protected and yet there well be plenty of light from all our sunny
days. Many plants that require full sun in northern Ohio really do
better with light shade in the hot sunny low desert.
My peace rose was 12 feet east of my home and I decided I would like it
better 3 feet east of my home. It is like a different plant: 5 feet
high, thriving and blooming almost continuously while in the former
location it was sick, short and barely surviving, let alone blooming.
It might also be that the enriched soil location replaced a used up soil
location....
If you have rabbits, you will need to protect vegetables from them. A
little chicken wire surrounding your planting area is enough. However,
it needs to be 24 inches high and 6 inches into the ground! or surrounded
by rock to discourage digging. Rabbits are much hungarier and
thirstier in the desert and new growth is their favorite food. Birds
also attack new seedlings!
After the seedling stage rabbits won't be a problem for artichokes,
onions, garlic, eggplant, potatoes. They will always be a problem for
asparagus, beans, lettuce. Birds will often eat radish
foliage........... You are going to love gardening in the low desert.
Perhaps you would like to take the master gardening class; I wish I had
taken it sooner.
On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:37:09 -0700 (MST) dukedpyle@mindspring.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am newly relocated from Indiana! We have
>a track home in North Scottsdale and the
>only place we can put our garden is on the
>East side of our home, next to the house.
>Will this be OK for a small organic garden??!!
>
>What base and soil should I try and what
>vegitables should I start with??? Please
>help!!
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From soxmandan@aol.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 11:42:24 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 11:42:24 -0700 (MST)
From: soxmandan@aol.com soxmandan@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
Help!!!
A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base doesn't look too healthy.
Can it be salvaged and replanted???
It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
I never watered it, per instructions.
From mtmcgeough@uswest.net Thu, 23 Dec 1999 14:55:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 14:55:34 -0700 (MST)
From: mtmcgeough@uswest.net mtmcgeough@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I work for a large landscape company and would like to do a better job at educating the spanish speaking members of my crews. I am interested in finding out where I can find spanish language horticulture information such as proper pruning, fertilizing, and general plant care. If anyone knows of a web site, books, or pamphlets that could help me in my quest, I would appreciate an e-mail.
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 15:57:28 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 15:57:28 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [sg] [AG] Free Goldfish in Phoenix, AZ
Thank you for what is always a timely reminder about handling non-native
species, animal OR vegetal. The Nature Conservancy (of which I am also a
member) had a fabulous article on this topic several months ago. Did you see
it?
In this urban area of Phoenix, I am passing my goldfish on to other folks
who have small, backyard water features. Mine is somewhat large at 12 x 4.5.
I was never planning to stock someone's earthen pond in a rural area! Use of
feeder fish (where one doesn't want the trouble of koi) is a common practice
for backyard ponds in our neck of the woods.
Many of us lose our fish to migratory birds as they pass through our state.
The kingfisher who visited my pond the last two years and consequently kept
the fish population manageable simply didn't show. As it turns out, I gave
the first half dozen goldfish to a neighbor two miles away who HAD just been
wiped out by a kingfisher.... Maybe it was my old friend!
You might even be surprised to know that I am raising children who have
never seen water in a river bed since virtually all our rivers have been
dammed earlier this century for power generation. Your point is well taken,
however; these might not be species that we want to introduce into the
canals that move water across our state.
Thanks for your interest, Maria.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maria Minno wrote:
> Please find out whether these are a pest species in your
> area before you pass them out. Thanks! Here in Florida
> we are suffering from a takeover by exotic fish and shellfish
> of our native species.
>
> Maria Minno
> Gainesville Florida
>
> ----------
> From: Linda A. Guy[SMTP:laguy2@primenet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 9:13 PM
> To: school_garden@mallorn.com
> Subject: [sg] [AG] Free Goldfish in Phoenix, AZ
>
> arid_gardener
> Two years ago I decided to populate my backyard pond with a dozen
> refugees from the feeder fish tank at the local tropical fish store
> [hey, at 10 for $1 it was a screaming deal]. Overwhelmed by their second
> lease on life and obviously desiring to make the most of their remaining
> days, my little ones have gone forth and multiplied. I am culling the
> school [who am I kidding? I take whatever I can catch.] and have now at
> least a dozen gold fish, hopefully more, to pass on [free of course] to
> a good home.
>
> These are your 'garden variety' goldfish, mostly orange, some white,
> some bicolored; some even pregnant! Beautiful fancy tails though. They
> are not accustomed to being fed, and forage for themselves. Smallest is
> 3.5 inches, most in the 4-5 inch range. I believe they could still come
> indoors as denizens of a larger bowl or tank, but someone else's pond is
> also a possibility. Don't confuse these with koi, which are ravenous
> vegetarians and eat everything in sight. I'm only losing some plant
> material now because of MY poor herd management practices!
>
> Any takers? Don't you think they'd make a GREAT stocking stuffer? I'm
> partial to my little fellas, and, anyway, it's too early to be putting
> one under each seed of corn in the garden......
>
> Linda Guy,
> Master Gardener
> Arcadia Neighborhood of Phoenix
> 602/852-0738
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
> _______________________________________________
> School_garden maillist - School_garden@mallorn.com
> https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/school_garden
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:43:27 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:43:27 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Arizona Sweets
Citrus is not my specialty, but I will try to answer your question since I haven't noticed a response yet.
In the 12-11-99 Garden Section of the Republic, Lucy Bradley wrote a column "When to give citrus a squeeze." Fruit color is not a reliable guide to the readiness of the fruit. A lack of cold days (and we are experiencing unusually balmy weather) will keep the fruit green. A taste test should be your guide. As you probably already know, the longer the fruit is on your tree the lower
the acid content drops and the sweeter it becomes.
I have seen some orange blooming in my neighborhood, and again wonder if the weather isn't the culprit, triggering a false spring reaction. You mention that an adjacent tree is performing as before, however. Is the tree that is blooming more exposed to sunlight and warmth, shading the other and keeping it cooler?
For your information, many sweet oranges are sold as Arizona Sweets, but this is not a specific variety. This can refer to Diller, Hamlin, Marrs, Pineapple or Trovita varieties, each with somewhat different harvest dates. Perhaps each tree is truly different. If you want more online information on citrus try AZ 1001 Citrus Varieties at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Good luck and good eating.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kirotate@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My orange tree has blossoms and it is only early December. I'm wondering why, and what to expect next. The oranges that had already set on it seem not to be turning color, yet there are of normal size. Incidentally, the orange tree next to it, is proceding on a normal schedule; I think the trees are 10-12 years old and my guess is they are Arizona sweet oranges. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:46:33 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:46:33 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Ripening Citrus
I know this response comes to late for your parents' departure to return to the midwest, but citrus fruit does not ripen once removed from the tree. More information can be seen in AZ1001 on citrus varieties.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
cmcarlton@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> If lemons or oranges are picked off the tree a little early, will they ripen? My parents are visiting from Ohio and leaving on 12/14. They want to ake some citrus back with them, but it is not quite ready. Please advise. Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:58:15 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:58:15 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Tangerine Performance
Tangerines (or mandarins) typically have thin-skins, and what you described is a beautiful fruit indeed. Assuming good water (deep, not frequent and shallow) and nutrient (fertilizer is a must for good production) practices, my hunch is that this could be a variety that may need to be on the tree longer
to mature. The longer it stays on the tree, the lower the acid content drops and the sugar rises. (Fruit picked from the tree ceases to ripen.)
Our bulletin AZ 1001 on Low Desert Citrus Varieties has a table on the ripening dates for different tangerine varieties. I'm not sure it specifically applies to your locale, but it's a gauge at least. Unfortunately, it suggests that indeed, you have a problem, since most varieties are ready in November.
There is one variety (Kinnow) that ripens later than others.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
alwardt@futureone.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The first two years of production on my single tangerine tree have produced a large crop of small, thin-skinned,beautifully colored and textured "very sour" fruit. The tree is on a drip system. We live in the desert near Aguila. Is there anything that can be done to make this abundant crop edible?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:03:46 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:03:46 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Growing Saguaro from Seed
Hi Cheyl, Sunsfan!
I can't answer your question, but I bet I know who can. Contact the Desert Botanical Garden hotline between 10 and 11:30 am, Mon thru
Fri with your question (480-941-1225). You could also try the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society (602/493-7003) or the
Arizona Native Plant Society, Phoenix Chapter (602-992-5435). Both clubs meet at the DBG on a regular basis.
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
Sunsfan001@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am interested in growing saguaros from seed. eg pre-treatment of seeds? potting medium, soil dampness, germination time, etc.
>
> Thnaks,
> Cheyl
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:11:24 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:11:24 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Grapes
A late rain suggests you may not be in the Phoenix area where it hasn't rained in quite some time. Grapes are deciduous so the leaf coloration and (presumed) loss are
typical in fall. I cannot volunteer a suggestion as to "blight", but I can't think whay this would be a result of rainfall.
May I suggest our publications MC59 Backyard Grapes and Q276 Growing Grapes at Home, both available by sending your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
teacher@bmol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have Flame and Thompson varieties.
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:18:51 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:18:51 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
I can't directly reply, but I know that the folks at Native Seeds/SEARCH in
Tucson sell the seeds and usually always send fact sheets with your purchase.
The phone number is 520/622-5561. Seed packets are $1.50, plus s/h, plus you'll
be supporting a great organization.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Todd wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Hi there:
>
> Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka garbanzos)
> in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
> wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've been
> having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos in
> these parts. Thanks.
>
> -mike t.
>
> Mike Todd
> Graduate Research Associate
>
> Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
> Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
> PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
> Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
>
> E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
> ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
> ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:21:44 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:21:44 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Saguaro Emergency
>From Monday thru Friday, between the hours of 10-11:30 am, the Desert Botanical Garden Hotline is available at 480-941-1225. Make sure you call tomorrow, as they are closed on
12/25.
Best of luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
soxmandan@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
> Help!!!
> A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base doesn't look too healthy.
> Can it be salvaged and replanted???
> It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
> I never watered it, per instructions.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu, 23 Dec 1999 05:41:22 -0700
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 05:41:22 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
That is interesting and I would like the results of your effort, too!
How do you know they are a cool season crop? Where did you get your
seed? Are they looking at all stressed by the short days and cool
weather? I have an old Taylor's:
"The chick-pea is an annual long cult. in southern Eu. for food.
Unlike the garden pea, it will stand considerable summer heat. Sow the
seeds 6-8 in. apart in drills about 2 in. deep, and space the rows at
least 2 ft. apart. The plant is of easy culture."
"arietinum. Chick-pea or garbanzo. A sticky-hairy annual, 1-2 ft.
high and branched. Leaflets 9-15, ovalish, about 1/2 in. long, finely
toothed. Flowers white or pinkish, scarecely 3/8 in. long. Pod nearly
1 in. long and half as wide, the seed wrinkled, about 1/3 in. in
diameter, one end pointed as though a ram's horn, white, red or black.
Western Asia." There is a paragraph above these 2 that
says that the chick-pea is the only one of interest among the dozen
"Asiatic herbs" of this family name. Apparently the standard is for one
seed per pod.
Page 88 of John Jeavon's book: "How to Grow more Vegetables......"
gives: 50 seeds per ounce, suggests 4 inch spacing in beds, 9 weeks to
maturity, 8 week harvest period and the other information seems quite
indefinite and not very encouraging.
On Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700 mike.todd@asu.edu (Michael Todd)
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Hi there:
>
>Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka
>garbanzos)
>in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
>wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've
>been
>having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos
>in
>these parts. Thanks.
>
>-mike t.
>
>Mike Todd
>Graduate Research Associate
>
>Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC
>3051
>Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
>PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
>Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
>
>E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
>ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
>ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 24 Dec 1999 07:13:36 -0700
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 07:13:36 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Growing Garbanzos
Hi again Mike,
Further to my response yesterday, Native Seeds/SEARCH is now online, and
at
http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/catalog/seedlist.html
you will find brief cultivating and seed-saving instructions for what is
indeed a cool season legume here in our deserts.
Enjoy your crop.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From dmkerr@dancris.com Sat, 25 Dec 1999 14:57:38 -0700
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 14:57:38 -0700
From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
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How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and =
hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants or =
is the sodium concentration too high?
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BF4EE8.62DEA1C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
How can I get chlorine out of tap water =
for=20
watering houseplants and hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater =
to make it=20
usable for plants or is the sodium concentration too=20
high?
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BF4EE8.62DEA1C0--
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:39:03 -0700
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:39:03 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] clover weeds in lawns
There are many different brands of "weed & feed" type products sold by the
Valley's nurseries and garden centers. These products are the best bet
for killing clover growing in your winter overseeded ryegrass lawn. Make
sure that the product says "post-emergent" on it somewhere as this kills
broadleaf weeds that have already sprouted and are growing in the lawn.
Most of these products do control clover, but you might double check by
reading the label to be sure that clover is listed. The fertilizer content
in the bag will also help the ryegrass to grow thicker and more lush -
thick healthy grass helps to keep more weeds from sprouting by reducing the
amount of light that reaches the soil surface.
For organic home gardeners, a couple of solutions work fairly well. Hand
pulling on smaller infestations is a good method - usually this is "Burr
Clover" which has a central tap root with long flat branches spreading
ut - using a knife to cut the central tap root just below ground level and
rolling up all the side branches to discard works very well. Also, some
people have luck with spraying a solution of vinegar on broadleaf weeds.
Use common white vinegar (inexpensive at any grocery store) and mix a
solution of about 25% vinegar and 75% water. Wait until the lawn is
scheduled to be mowed, before spraying with the vinegar solution. Spray in
the morning so that the warmth of the day will help this solution to burn
the clover - it is best to just spray on & around the clover plants,
especially any newly emerging clover seedlings. Some clovers are a little
tougher and are easier to kill with vinegar while they are still small
seedlings - if the plants are more mature, the vinegar may only stunt them
or burn some of the leaves, without actually killing the clover plants.
The vinegar should not hurt your ryegrass plants, although it is a good idea
to water the lawn late the same afternoon as you spray the vinegar to reduce
any stress to the ryegrass. Mowing the lawn a couple days later will
remove any damaged leaf tips from the ryegrass.
It is very critical that you control the clover as soon as possible. If
left to mature and begin blooming, it can produce hundreds of new seeds to
sit in the soil until next fall - controlling the existing plants early
and preventing seed formation can greatly reduce your problems in future
years.
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener
**********************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: jdebolske@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:38 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>How do keep clover from growing in the winter in a bermuda grass lawn?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:45:35 -0700
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:45:35 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Re: ryegrass problems
Scott Esling
I am a Volunteer Master Gardener, but in "real life" I work for the local
office of an Oregon grass seed company - Seed Research of Oregon. I'll
give you some advice and suggestions below and then if you need any more
specific details, feel free to call and discuss with my office.
1) Topdressing with a sand and seed mixture into your divots is the normal
practice in this area and usually works quite well on golf courses, turf
horse tracks, parks, etc.
2) Soil Temperatures have dropped considerably since you planted the seed
in October - as the soils cool off, the ryegrass seed reverts to its true
pattern of taking 3-4+ weeks to sprout and emerge. (Earlier in the fall,
while soil temperatures are still warm, the ryegrass seed can pop up in as
little as 5 days). Anything you can do to darken the soil color will
help to warm it and help with seed germination during mid-winter. Mixing
Activated Charcoal with you sand/seed mix, or maybe some darker colored
mulch will really help. The dark color (rather than pale sand) will help
absorb heat from the sun and warm the soil better in your divots that you
are re-planting. Also, with our long dry spell this fall, you may want
to alter your watering schedule - you need to start watering for longer
peiods to keep the already sprouted grass plants happy - deeper watering
for healthier deeper roots. On the other hand, you do need to water 3
times a day to keep your divot seeds germinating as well. See if there is
any way to modify your watering to accomodate both of these.
3) Watering at night is in general not recommended due to higher
incidences of fungal diseases, BUt in reality our climate has few turfgrass
related fungal diseases in most seasons. The local water companies
recommend that homeowners water their lawns at night due to a slight savings
in water from less evaporation at night. THE GOLF COURSES mostly water at
night due to watering schedules on large turf acreage - they have to rotate
through the sprinkler system, watering one section at a time, to keep their
water pressure up. With 100-200 acres on a golf course, this often means
rotaing into the night. They also water at night to accomodate their
customers who don't want to be sprayed while golfing during the day.
Hope these answers help you some. You may also want to contact Dr. Dave
Kopec and Dr. Ken Marcum with the Karsten Turfgrass Research Center in
Tucson - this is the turf research department of the College of
Agriculture, with the University of Arizona.
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
Mike Hills
Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales
Seed Research of Oregon
5314 West Luke Avenue
Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA
tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298
email mhills_sro@msn.com
WEB www.sroseed.com
*******************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Esling, Scott J(Z99952)
To: 'mhills_sro@email.msn.com'
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 4:02 AM
Subject: rye grass
>Dear sir,
> I am a golf driving range owner in Glendale,AZ and am in need of
>advice. Before I ask for the advise here's a little background...I am not a
>professional greenskeeper. I opened my facility having only basic knowledge
>of lawn care. I use Fertizona and follow their fertilizing advice. I also
>purchase my seed through them.
>I planted my 360' x 75' teebox last February (overseeded dormant bermuda
>sod). I transitioned back to winter rye in mid-October and the rye came in
>nicely. By the second week of Nov. golfers began "hitting" off of it. I
>move my teeing stations based upon usage and I topdress with sand to fill
in
>the divoted areas. I then add new rye seed. It is this new seed that will
>not grow. I follow the same water schedule as I did when I first
established
>my winter lawn -- daily, (3) five minute cycles. If you will, please give
>advice on these questions:
>How can I get regrowth for my teebox? Is it too cold now for germination to
>occur? Is the sand that I use not the right material? Could it be that it
>does not foster new growth?
>I know experts say not to water at night but how come almost all golf
>courses do and why is their turf usually perfect?
>Is there any chance that I could get U of A to investigate my turf? Is my
>story worthy of research? Does the Agricultural Dept have a need for
>research and development areas at commercial sites? If not, do you know of
>any organization that would?
>Thanks for your time.
>Scott Esling
>
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:38:53 -0700
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:38:53 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] saguaro problem
Hello Gardener
Sorry to hear about your saguaro falling over. I would suggest very
strobly that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden here in Phoenix.
They have an expert on staff who has had 100% success with transplanting
many saguaroes over the last 15 years. The Desert Botanical Garden has
an easy to read and understand information sheet on transplanting saguaros
and their care the first year to insure success - this was written by Cezar,
their resident expert. Desert Botanical Garden tel#480-941-1225 -
One thing to NOTE: The Desert Botanical Garden experts all recommend that
YOU DO WATER the transplanted saguaro quite a bit the first year - or else
it will not survive. Remember that you are asking it to generate an
entire new root system and it needs water to do this. The Botanical
Garden's sheet has explicit watering instructions.
>From your saguaro falling over, I would guess that it may have also been
planted too deeply originally and therefor has not developed a new strong
root system - many landscapers tend to plant them way too deep, in order
not to use any supports. With the root system too far below ground it
does not get enough water to re-develop so these plants often falll over or
die after a year or two or more. The information sheet form the Desert
Botanical Garden goes into more detail on this, if you choose to try and
replant. This correct watering is especially critical for your Lake Havasu
area, since I don't think you receive enough rainfall for healthy optimum
saguaro growth.
On another note, your cactus may be too damaged to bother replanting. If
it crashed to the ground in its recent fall, the internal structure may be
extensively damaged. A large mature saguaro weighs a lot and when they
crash over, the trunk and support structure is often cracked and fractured
(almost shattered) - you may want to look closely at your cactus and check
for visible cracks and bruising. Depending on the severity of the damage,
you can decide whether or not to replant. In the meantime, keep the plant
base dry and open to the air so that any damage or tears in the base can
callous over and begin healing before you replant. If some areas appear
rotten and watery, scrape them away down to healthy tissue and let the air
heal the wound - no need to apply bleach or other materials, as long as you
scrape the rotten parts out down to fresh tissue.
You may also want to contact the company that sold you the cactus and/or
transplanted it originally for you. Sometimes they will warranty their
cacti, especially if they did the planting themselves. You should still
get the Desertt Botanical Gardens Saguaro transplanting sheet to discuss
with the re-planters to make sure it is done right this time and to make
sure that your follow up care is correct..
Hope this has helped. Good Luck!
mike hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
**********************************
-----Original Message-----
From: soxmandan@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Thursday, December 23, 1999 11:52 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
>Help!!!
>A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa
to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base
doesn't look too healthy.
>Can it be salvaged and replanted???
>It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
>I never watered it, per instructions.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:03:36 -0700
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:03:36 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] water
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Kerr Family
If you are using only small amounts of water for your houseplants and =
hydroponics, then there is an easy solution. Chlorine is a volatile =
gas that will actually evaporate from treated tap water left standing in =
an open container - usually 24 hours is long enough - pots, gallon =
jugs, pails, etc.. I used this system for many years for home =
aquariums, when I was concerned about excessive chlorine levels on more =
sensitive fish. =20
With most houseplants, the chlorine levels in most of our Arizona tap =
water are not high enough to be harmful. You do need to flush the =
pots at least once per month by watering excessively and making sure the =
water completely drains through - none left sitting in the drain tray. =
This will usually help to eliminate any excess ssalts that have =
accumulated in the soil from our water.
I will wait for some other more knowledgeable Master Gardeners to answer =
you on re-use of the pool backwash water on your yard plants. I've =
heard both sides over the years - "harmful" and "not harmful" so I am =
not too sure what to tell you.
Good Luck - mike hills, Volunteer Master Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerr Family
To: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Saturday, December 25, 1999 2:58 PM
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
=20
=20
How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and =
hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants =
or is the sodium concentration too high?
------=_NextPart_000_01B7_01BF506A.C968B060
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Kerr Family
If you are using only small amounts of water for =
your=20
houseplants and hydroponics, then there is an easy solution. =
Chlorine is a volatile gas that will actually evaporate from treated tap =
water=20
left standing in an open container - usually 24 hours is long =
enough -=20
pots, gallon jugs, pails, etc.. I used this system for =
many=20
years for home aquariums, when I was concerned about excessive chlorine =
levels=20
on more sensitive fish.
With most houseplants, the chlorine levels in most =
of our=20
Arizona tap water are not high enough to be harmful. =
You do=20
need to flush the pots at least once per month by watering excessively =
and=20
making sure the water completely drains through - none left sitting in =
the drain=20
tray. This will usually help to eliminate any excess ssalts =
that=20
have accumulated in the soil from our water.
I will wait for some other more knowledgeable Master =
Gardeners=20
to answer you on re-use of the pool backwash water on your yard=20
plants. I've heard both sides over the years -=20
"harmful" and "not harmful" so I am not too sure =
what to=20
tell you.
Good Luck - mike hills, Volunteer Master =
Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original =
Message-----
From:=20
Kerr Family <dmkerr@dancris.com>
To: =
Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
=20
<Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>
Date:=20
Saturday, December 25, 1999 2:58 PM
Subject: [AG] (no=20
subject)
How can I get chlorine out of tap =
water for=20
watering houseplants and hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool =
backwater to make=20
it usable for plants or is the sodium concentration too=20
high?
------=_NextPart_000_01B7_01BF506A.C968B060--
From bronwenjones@earthlink.net Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:58:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:58:00 -0700 (MST)
From: bronwenjones@earthlink.net bronwenjones@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My (twisted) Cereus (Senita?) has turned
light yellow. All other Cereus within
25 feet appear normal, including a large
Suguaro. What causes this and what
should I do about it?
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:29:06 -0700
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:29:06 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Spanish
Hello arid gardener
I have a couple of handy books that I have picked up over the years that are
for Agricultural and Horticultural Spanish. Real handy and easy to use.
These are more dictionary style for your use, rather than actually Spanish
language horticultural information. Perhaps another one of our arid
gardener answerers can help with more suggestions.
I believe I picked them up at the University of AriZona BOOKSTORE, BUT NOT
100% CERTAIN. You could call them in Tucson and ask.
Otherwise, here is the information on the better one that I keep here in my
office., With ISBN# and details you can maybe order from your local
favorite bookstore. Or even look for this title online with Amazon.
ISBN 0-913702-56-0
Library of Congress Catalog # 93-0060117
"Thompson's English/Spanish Spanish/English Illustrated Agricultural
Dictionary"
by Dr. Robert P. Rice Jr. (published in 1993)
Published by Thompson Publications - maybe they are on-line these days too
if you do a search?
Good Luck!
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
**********************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: mtmcgeough@uswest.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Thursday, December 23, 1999 3:18 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>I work for a large landscape company and would like to do a better job at
educating the spanish speaking members of my crews. I am interested in
finding out where I can find spanish language horticulture information such
as proper pruning, fertilizing, and general plant care. If anyone knows of
a web site, books, or pamphlets that could help me in my quest, I would
appreciate an e-mail.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From gallegos.me@pg.com Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:15:23 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:15:23 -0700 (MST)
From: gallegos.me@pg.com gallegos.me@pg.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Purchasing large quantities of Citrus Trees:
Our family recently purchased an old historic home that
has over 9 acres in citrus trees. Over 500 trees of assorted citrus tress
exist. Many trees are 50 years old and are dying quickly. We want
to revitalize the orchard and want to purchase replacements. Without having
From mike.todd@asu.edu Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:49:52 -0700
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:49:52 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: Re(2): [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
Linda and Dawn:
Thanks for your responses. In fact, I purchased my garbanzo seeds (var.
Dolores de Hidalgo) from NS/S (an organization I am proud to be a member
of). Unfortunately, I don't always find the info I need in the
seedlistings or even with phone calls to the Tucson store. Linda, if you
know of a specific person or persons to ask for at NS/S for plant advice,
could you please send that info along? Thanks again.
-mike t.
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From AugieASA@AOL.COM Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:20:30 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:20:30 -0700 (MST)
From: AugieASA@AOL.COM AugieASA@AOL.COM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My question regards FIG Trees.
My Fig tree produces Figs but they seem to never mature to sweetness. Is ther a soil conditioner that needs to be applied. The
varity of Figs are (don't know the name) but they are white ones and produce 2X a year.
Any help would be appriciated
Thanks Augie
From amews@aol.com Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:12:46 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:12:46 -0700 (MST)
From: amews@aol.com amews@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
None of our bedding plants are thriving this year--lots of initial growth then wilt & death. We water regularly & fertilize. We are not new to gardening but can't figure out why our flower beds look so pitiful! We live in the desert & have always amended the soil. Also, our roses do not thrive-- lots of dead limbs and sickly stems very little flowering. They seem to do well initally then kapoot! HELP & THANKS
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:45:36 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:45:36 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Kerr Family,
First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating
chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This
may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic
operation. The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used
to have a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to
give you some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited
their facility on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's
an interesting place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)
It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note to
our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large
quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be
interested. (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)
Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe
for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing
from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some
circumstances the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and
the publication lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to
salt content. Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my
Master Gardener training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool
water. The publication is available by mailing $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative
Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
> How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and
> hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable
> for plants or is the sodium concentration too high?
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Kerr Family,
First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating
chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This
may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic operation.
The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used to have
a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to give you
some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited their facility
on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's an interesting
place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)
It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note
to our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large
quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested.
(arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)
Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water:
Safe for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing
from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some circumstances
the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and the publication
lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to salt content.
Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my Master Gardener
training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool water. The publication
is available by mailing $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
How
can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and hydroponics?Is
there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants or is
the sodium concentration too high?
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3--
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:57:49 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:57:49 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Renovating a Citrus Orchard
You note appears to have been truncated (see below). Can you tell us more about
what information you are seeking? Also, what area of the valley are you located
in?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gallegos.me@pg.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Purchasing large quantities of Citrus Trees:
> Our family recently purchased an old historic home that
> has over 9 acres in citrus trees. Over 500 trees of assorted citrus tress
> exist. Many trees are 50 years old and are dying quickly. We want
> to revitalize the orchard and want to purchase replacements. Without having
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:07:22 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:07:22 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] White Fig Trees
Hi Augie,
White figs are likely to be either Conadria or Kadota. The former does well in the Salt River Valley [large, cream to light green
colored fruit with a whitish-strawberry meat. It needs minimal chilling conditions, and is less susceptible to sour fruit beetle
than the more typical Mission variety. ] However, while popular in areas of California, the Kadota fig has poor fruiting for
southern Arizona [one of our publications suggests it has a VERY erratic ripening history].
Two crops are typical for figs. The first is born about June on the prior year's wood. The new wood yields midsummer through about
October.
We have a pretty good fig publication MC23 Home Grown Figs that can tell you alot about pruning (an activity recommended for
January), fertilizing, irrigating, harvesting and trouble shooting. Just send $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
AugieASA@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My question regards FIG Trees.
>
> My Fig tree produces Figs but they seem to never mature to sweetness. Is ther a soil conditioner that needs to be applied. The
> varity of Figs are (don't know the name) but they are white ones and produce 2X a year.
> Any help would be appriciated
> Thanks Augie
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:36:19 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:36:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Beginning Gardening in Arizona
Thanks for not giving up just yet! Gardening in our low desert will be different in many ways, but I'm sure it's just a matter of some more information before your beds are producing.
There are so many things that could be causing you a problem that I am going to recommend a little bit of reading out of our Home Horticulture library. Before I give you that list, however, it might be good for you to know that while we have year-round growing seasons, the plant material, particularly annuals, need to be started at the appropriate time. Just because a plant is in the nursery does not mean its the optimum time to put it in your garden.
We gardeners who like to turn the 'crops' over quickly tend to use varieties with shorter times to maturity, like many northern neighbors are forced to do with short summers. It also helps us bring our vegetables in before the intense heat of the summer. Irrigation is critical: deep and infrequent is better than daily sprinkling. Our soil is lacking in organic material, tending to compaction, so soil amendments such as manure or compost are annual
garden activities (4-6 inches is good) that usually require two weeks of fallow time before planting therein.
Now, here are some places you can tour for some solid advice for desert gardening:
Maricopa County Home Horticulture Publications at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
where you can specifically look online at AZ1100 Flower and Bedding Plant Guide for the Low Desert and AZ1005 Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County, amongst many other specialty publications. If a publication of interest is not online, this page contains instructions for ordering a copy. Your local library should also have a full set.
We also have a book for newcomers like yourself called Desert Gardening for Beginners
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm
Finally, every month we keep you posted on gardening activities suitable for our climate and conditions. It too is available on our website at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
Don't give up hope! Exceptional gardening can be and is done all around our valley.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
j.turbenson@att.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We moved here this summer from Minnesota. We have a large irrigated lot in Gilbert. I already have a raised bed garden on the property and flower beds. So far, anything I have planted just seems to sit there for awhile and dies. Nothing flourishes but acts like it is poisoned somehow. I have tried tomatos, petunias, herbs, Mums, etc. but nothing seems to want to grow and just withers and dies or stays in the soil without growth. Help. Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:56:05 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:56:05 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Vegetable Garden: Frost Recovery
Hi Jim,
Most vegetable varieties (leaf, root and flower crops) that are in our gardens now will usually dally in a state of dormancy if the weather gets really cold. (This
of course doesn't seem to currently be the situation in this unseasonably warm winter.) It is a natural state that should not be tampered with much: it is nature's
way of winterizing plants to withstand the cold. Actively growing foliage is the most susceptible to freeze injury, so you don't really want to stimulate anything
that is frost-tender. Proper irrigation is essential, because thirsty plants are more susceptible to frost damage as well.
If you have concern about damage, the time to act is when the frost warning is issued. Applying heat after the fact, especially from a heater, will really confuse
the plant, probably shock it and perhaps kill it. (Light bulbs are sometimes recommended but this is usually used for very frost sensitive plants like citrus
trees.) Irrigating after a frost may be too late if the plant was already dry.
Covering your crops with row cover when frost threatens is best. Remove it during the day or you will make your plants too weakened and dependent on the warmth.
Make sure the covering doesn't touch the plants, as frost damage can arise at the point of contact. (Again, I'm speaking of cool season vegetables; if you have a
wall'o'water around a tomato plant that is normally a warm season crop, this frost protection remains in place until spring)
If you incur frost damage, it is not usually pruned until warmer weather. You will only encourage new growth which will again be susceptible to frost. Plus the old,
damaged growth will act as a protective layer.
We have several good frost publications, one of which is available on line at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf
I hope this helps you.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> After a light frost, what is the best method to rcover a vegetable garden? E.G., water immediately to melt light frost, wait for the sun to warm, space heater?
>
> Thx, Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:06:07 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:06:07 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] East Exposure Vegetable Garden
This can be a good place to plant, keeping in mind that the area will
produce best if it has 6 to 8 hours of sun at ANY time of the year. This
may be harder for you to achieve in the winter particularly if you have
any walls or trees shading the area from the south. On the other hand,
the east wall of your house will provide some ambient heat during the
cooler hours of winter.
In the summer time, this location could be just the ticket to give
relief to heat-stressed vegetables in the afternoon. Just don't put
plants up against that east housewall or they may fry on the stucco!
We have loads of information to help you get started, and alot of it is
online. Check out Maricopa County Home Horticulture Publications at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
where you can specifically look online at AZ1100 Flower and Bedding
Plant Guide for the Low
Desert and AZ1005 Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County,
amongst many other specialty publications. If a publication of interest
is not online, this page contains instructions for
ordering a copy. Your local library should also have a full set.
We also have a book for newcomers like yourself called Desert Gardening
for Beginners
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm
Finally, every month we keep you posted on gardening activities suitable
for our climate and
conditions. It too is available on our website at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
You're just gonna love gardening here!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dukedpyle@mindspring.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am newly relocated from Indiana! We have
> a track home in North Scottsdale and the
> only place we can put our garden is on the
> East side of our home, next to the house.
> Will this be OK for a small organic garden??!!
>
> What base and soil should I try and what
> vegitables should I start with??? Please
> help!!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:20:34 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 09:20:34 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Renovating a Citrus Orchard
Colleagues,
Please note the following addendum to Mr. Gallegos' original query which was cut
off.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Gallegos-ME wrote:
> Linda,
>
> Thanks for getting back to me.
>
> I was looking for a nursery or wholesaler that sells citrus trees (assorted). I
> hear there was a co-op somewhere in AZ that sells 15-gallon trees. I'm
> interested in buying 20-30 trees this year and about the same over the next 5
> years. Of course if there is a program that supports the revitalization of
> orchards and funding is available, I'd be interested in hearing more. Today,
> all our citrus fruit is donated to the food banks of Arizona. Additional, we
> support our local school programs with field trips on the property, etc. The
> orchard is maintained by us and we are looking for any help or guidance on where
> to purchase quality citrus trees for an affordable price ($8 - $12 range).
>
> We live in S. Phoenix. S. of Baseline and W. of 7th Ave. The historic
> significance of our place is not only the age of the home, but the age of the
> citrus farm. The citrus trees on this 10 acre plot are over 50 years old. Over
> a 200 trees are dead while many are still alive and well.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Michael
>
>
> Internet Mail Message
> Received from host: smtp05.primenet.com
> [206.165.6.135]
>
>
> From: "Linda A. Guy" on 12/29/99 07:57 AM
>
> To: Michael Gallegos-ME/PGI
> cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu
> Subject: Renovating a Citrus Orchard
>
> You note appears to have been truncated (see below). Can you tell us more about
> what information you are seeking? Also, what area of the valley are you located
> in?
>
> Linda Guy
> Master Gardener
>
> gallegos.me@pg.com wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > Purchasing large quantities of Citrus Trees:
> > Our family recently purchased an old historic home that
> > has over 9 acres in citrus trees. Over 500 trees of assorted citrus tress
> > exist. Many trees are 50 years old and are dying quickly. We want
> > to revitalize the orchard and want to purchase replacements. Without having
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 29 Dec 1999 13:33:55 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 13:33:55 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Renovating a Citrus Orchard
While you wait for input from my colleagues about local nurseries, you might
consider boning up on appropriate citrus varieties and care. Check out our Home
Horticulture directory of publications, citrus section at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
One of the publications dealing with varieties is online; the rest can be ordered
(directions are on that page of our website) or you could easily drive over to the
County Extension Office, which is not quite in your backyard.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Gallegos-ME wrote:
> Linda,
>
> Thanks for getting back to me.
>
> I was looking for a nursery or wholesaler that sells citrus trees (assorted). I
> hear there was a co-op somewhere in AZ that sells 15-gallon trees. I'm
> interested in buying 20-30 trees this year and about the same over the next 5
> years. Of course if there is a program that supports the revitalization of
> orchards and funding is available, I'd be interested in hearing more. Today,
> all our citrus fruit is donated to the food banks of Arizona. Additional, we
> support our local school programs with field trips on the property, etc. The
> orchard is maintained by us and we are looking for any help or guidance on where
> to purchase quality citrus trees for an affordable price ($8 - $12 range).
>
> We live in S. Phoenix. S. of Baseline and W. of 7th Ave. The historic
> significance of our place is not only the age of the home, but the age of the
> citrus farm. The citrus trees on this 10 acre plot are over 50 years old. Over
> a 200 trees are dead while many are still alive and well.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Michael
>
>
> Internet Mail Message
> Received from host: smtp05.primenet.com
> [206.165.6.135]
>
>
From leoneamerica@azwest.net Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:58:06 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:58:06 -0700 (MST)
From: leoneamerica@azwest.net leoneamerica@azwest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I flood irragate my garden. Because of this many of my watermelons rot on the bottom. I have tried the elevated on a slab trick but that is not the answer. Is there a variety of watermelon that will take this type of irragation without having the high rotting problem? I do not have any problems with my cantaloupes
From leoneamerica@azwest.net Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:54:45 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:54:45 -0700 (MST)
From: leoneamerica@azwest.net leoneamerica@azwest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
whenever I plant a head lettuce such as Iceburg, they come out perfect except for the fact that they weigh about half of what a head weighs that I can buy in the grocery store. What can I do to get them up to a ore normal weight?
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 29 Dec 1999 17:23:49 -0700
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 17:23:49 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Renovating a Citrus Orchard
I scanned this pub a few months ago to respond to a similar question.
Hope it helps. Good Luck. -Olin
>From Fact Sheet MC 8 - Recovery of Neglected Citrus Trees
Cooperative Extension
The University Of Arizona, College Of Agriculture
Maricopa County Office
4341 E. Broadway Ave
Phoenix Az 85040
The perplexing problem of how to rejuvenate declining citrus trees has
confronted most Southern Arizona gardeners. Assuming this sometimes
dubious challenge takes determination and patience reinforced with
know-how and the proverbial "green thumb.
-
Although citrus trees are comparatively hardy, they're substantially
weakened from prolonged neglect, they, suffer considerable injury from
subsequent exposure to our scorching, desiccating summers and occasional
winter freezing. Potential for recovery depends upon each tree's health
and vigor and, of course, the extent of injury.
Late winter and early spring are the best seasons to initiate
restoration attempts, and the base of each tree is the place to start.
Make sure the bud or graft union, that swollen enlargement that
encircles the base of the trunk. is above the ground surface. If not,
soil should be removed to expose this critical area to the air.
Occasionally trees are transplanted too deep, or too much soil is filled
in under established trees or mounded around the base of their trunks.
This condition makes them more susceptible to Foot Rot Gumosis
infection, an all-too-common fungus disease of the lower trunks and
roots of citrus trees.
Then, as near as practical, extend their irrigation well out to the
"dripline" of each tree. This is necessary in order that the important
feeder roots which are most prolific in the outer reaches of root zones
can adequately be supplied with water and fertilizer. These wells need
only be deep enough to confine water under the trees during irrigations,
however, since the rate of flow can usually be adjusted in accordance
with the soi1's rate of absorption.
Next, closely inspect the trunks and lower limbs of each tree. Carefully
cut away any bark that's loose, cracked. or bleeding sap. Don't remove
healthy bark! And no wood need be removed unless it's rotting.
Immediately treat such surgical wounds with a smear of Bordeaux Mixture
diluted with water to a thin paint consistency. Then, to discourage
future Foot Rot Gumosis infection, dilute three tablespoons of Bordeaux
Mixture per gallon of water and drench 3 to 5 gallons of this solution
into the soil Immediately around the base of each tree trunk. Usually
this drench need not be repeated, at least for a few years.
Now, look to the limbs and branches. Corrective pruning will probably be
necessary. If summer foliage has been sparse, sun-exposed bark of
branches, limbs, and trunks will be sunburned to varying degrees. But,
whatever the cause, any dead or severely weakened twigs, branches, or
limbs best be pruned out. Then, thin out twigs of the rest of each tree
to balance its remaining branching. Treat all larger cuts with the
Bordeaux Mixture smear, then seal them with asphalt pruning paste after
they dry.
Next, or at least before the weather gets hot, white vinyl tree paint
ought to be applied to any larger branches, limbs, or trunks that are
not shaded by foliage from our summer's intense sunlight. Its white
color will reflect the sun's burning rays and prevent further burn
injury.
Finally, a good application of nitrogen fertilizer, evenly applied under
each tree and watered in by a deep, thorough irrigation, will hopefully
stimulate recovery. The regular seasons to fertilize citrus are early
February and then again in late May, but an additional application about
the first of August will help weakened trees recover their vigor.
Nitrogen fertilizers normally suffice, but if summer foliage develops a
chlorotic (yellowing) appearance, an application of chelated iron will
green up leaves and stimulate growth.
Established citrus trees should be irrigated 6 to 8 hours each time and
about every 10 days to 2 weeks during the summer, every 2 to 3 weeks
spring and fall, but only once each month in the winter.
Those growing in sprinkler-irrigated grass lawns additionally need those
prolonged 6 to 8 hour irrigations but only about once a month to supply
their deeper rooting needs.
Insect sprays are normally not a practical necessity for landscape
citrus, but don't entirely discount the possibility. New growth produced
from cut back limbs will be particularly susceptible to thrips injury.
ATTENTIVE observation and prompt controls could save weakened trees from
further set-back.
2/78 BOYCE R. FOERMAN, Extension Agent, Agriculture
From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:00:34 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:00:34 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page]
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From: Sue Bass
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To: leoneamerica@azwest.net
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I researched your question using a book called Desert Gardening Fruits and Vegetables by George Brookbank. In the section on gardening in December he says, "Although lettuce prefers cooler temperatures, we get a little impatient
with its slower growth during the month of December. We can overcome this to some extent by using ammonium nitrate in place of the usual ammonium sulphate. Use a little less because it is stronger - 33 instead of 21 percent. Pale
plants will green up within a week and their size will increase, too. A gentle application, say a teaspoon shared between three or four plants per plant every two weeks, will really push your crop along." He then states that "Head
lettuce does not grow nearly as well as leaf types . . . Head lettuce varieties take 75 days or more to mature, whereas leaf types need only 40 days or so. We are back to the principal of desert gardening that says you have a number
of short seasons to use. . . . Use quick- maturing varieties."
Further information about lettuce can be found at the following site in the Master Gardener Manual:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/lettuce.html
Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener Volunteer
leoneamerica@azwest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> whenever I plant a head lettuce such as Iceburg, they come out perfect except for the fact that they weigh about half of what a head weighs that I can buy in the grocery store. What can I do to get them up to a ore normal weight?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
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From dgilbert@amug.org Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:09:26 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:09:26 -0700 (MST)
From: dgilbert@amug.org dgilbert@amug.org
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Wanted to find out what type fertilizer or plant food I need for Pgymy Date palms and fan palms. Also do cactus need any type of fertilizer or food outside in my yard. They were just planted two months ago. Thanks for any help you can give me.
From kclizman@aol.com Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:53:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:53:50 -0700 (MST)
From: kclizman@aol.com kclizman@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again.
I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:38:28 EST
Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 19:38:28 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Rose and Flower Problems
Your problems with the annuals sound like the problems that I've had this
year with annuals. The extremely high temperatures in October and November
and suddenly turning cooler than normal has not allowed the plants a chance
to do much growing. Most of our winter annuals cannot handle those high
temperatures. I have assumed that you live in the low desert area of Maricopa
County. If you would send me more info I hopefully could be more specific.
What annuals have you planted?
Have you planted the same annuals in the same spot and for how many years?
How did you prepare the soil?
How often and how much were you watering when it was hot and now?
Describe the plants that died, yellow leaves? shrunken stems at ground level?
Have you fertilized and with what?
I'll need similar info about the roses.
I'll be waiting to hear from you.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:23:45 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:23:45 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] bermuda weeds
Your idea might work for areas that receive no water but anyplace that
will get within 6 feet of a water source will need to be completely free
of any part of a rhizome. If you can follow up when the first sprout
appears and dig down and remove all traces of this grass, that might be
the best way to start your new garden this year. It certainly will be
lots of work.
On Thu, 30 Dec 1999 15:53:50 -0700 (MST) kclizman@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a
>butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not
>have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again.
>
>I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till
>the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:48:36 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:48:36 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: sajuaro
If you can get it up, keep it up, it might make roots from the bottom of
the ribs. It will need water occasionally in order to do this but you
must not rot the bottom. This is a difficult thing to do without the
equipment that originally planted it. It would seem that contacting
the people who planted it for you would be in order since you followed
their directions.
In the case that you can't raise the whole plant, you need to know that
these cacti make roots from the bottom of each rib rather than from the
thorn bases. This means that each branch could start a new plant and,
perhaps, sections of the main trunk could too. Let me know what you
do. I love my saguaro.
On Thu, 23 Dec 1999 11:42:24 -0700 (MST) soxmandan@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
>Help!!!
>A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from
>Mesa to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and
>the base doesn't look too healthy.
>Can it be salvaged and replanted???
>It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
>I never watered it, per instructions.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 06:54:11 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 06:54:11 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: chlorine
Leave the water sit in an open plastic container overnight, change
containers a couple of times hoping the plastic will absorb what the air
doesn't get. There are very few plants that will trive with salty
water like pool water tends to be.
On Sat, 25 Dec 1999 14:57:38 -0700 "Kerr Family"
writes:
>How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and
>hydroponics?
>Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants or
>is the sodium concentration too high?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:38:03 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:38:03 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Cool weather fertilization
In the cool weather, ammonium sulfate acts much slower than it would in
warm weather so ammonium nitrate is a better fertilizer. However, since
it is so fast acting, you must be more careful to water and apply less
quantity each application. Nitrogen is the main need for these green
leafy vegetables.
On Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:54:45 -0700 (MST) leoneamerica@azwest.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>whenever I plant a head lettuce such as Iceburg, they come out perfect
>except for the fact that they weigh about half of what a head weighs
>that I can buy in the grocery store. What can I do to get them up to a
>ore normal weight?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:26:20 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:26:20 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Cactus fertilizer
Don't fertilize cactus much anytime and never in the cool season.
Cactus roots are near the surface and are easily burnt with fertilizer.
When they are actively growing, they can be watered more and the danger
of root burning is less.
On Thu, 30 Dec 1999 09:09:26 -0700 (MST) dgilbert@amug.org writes:
>arid_gardener
>Wanted to find out what type fertilizer or plant food I need for Pgymy
>Date palms and fan palms. Also do cactus need any type of fertilizer
>or food outside in my yard. They were just planted two months ago.
>Thanks for any help you can give me.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:34:43 -0700
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 05:34:43 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Watermellon
In a situation like yours, you might try planting your watermelon near
the side of your garden where you could train the vines up slope so your
melons would be on unirrigated land (the dike around your garden that
keeps the water on the crops).
On Wed, 29 Dec 1999 08:58:06 -0700 (MST) leoneamerica@azwest.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>I flood irragate my garden. Because of this many of my watermelons rot
>on the bottom. I have tried the elevated on a slab trick but that is
>not the answer. Is there a variety of watermelon that will take this
>type of irragation without having the high rotting problem? I do not
>have any problems with my cantaloupes
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dmkerr@dancris.com Wed Dec 1 13:33:18 1999
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 06:33:18 -0700
From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
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I know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be, =
and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato? Brocoli? =
Leeks?
I have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up against the south =
facing wall of my house. The lows where I live are often 10 to 12 =
degrees lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on the radio. The =
lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If the radio says 45 or =
less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover the plants if it less =
than 38. It is amazing to me how often there was no frost on the car =
when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite frost when I go to work at =
7AM.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I know frost tender is a relative =
term. How=20
cold does it have to be, and for how long to damage romaine =
lettuce? =20
Basil? Tomato? Brocoli? Leeks?
I have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, =
but dormant,=20
up against the south facing wall of my house. The lows where I =
live are=20
often 10 to 12 degrees lower than the official Sky Habor numbers =
on the=20
radio. The lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. =
If the=20
radio says 45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover the =
plants if=20
it less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there was no frost =
on the=20
car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite frost when I go to =
work at=20
7AM.
------=_NextPart_000_0056_01BF3BC5.F48F6EA0--
From Efamlie@aol.com Wed Dec 1 16:56:25 1999
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:56:25 -0700 (MST)
From: Efamlie@aol.com Efamlie@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hello. Every fall I plant two flower beds with petunias. Have never had a problem with them before..always beautiful! This year am having a horrible time with them. The plants slowly develop a "wilt"...then die. I have removed dead petunias and replanted (am on third planting)! Have purchased different petunias from different nurserys--thinking it could be diseased product (?). What is going on....HELP! Thanks so much..anxiously awaiting your reply.
Sincerely, Mary
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 18:16:43 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:16:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Christmas Cactus
Sorry for the delayed response due to Thanksgiving. I'm also posting your
answer to the readers of our website, which you can always use to research
your gardening questions:
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
According to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension publication MC-38:
'To keep them at their best, bright light and day temperatures of 65 to 70
degrees (55 to 65 degrees at night) is recommended. Keep the potting soil
evenly moist, not wet. With proper care, they can be kept for years as indoor
potted plants." When you water, make sure the root ball is thoroughly
moistened, some drainage into tray to ensure leaching.
There was no reference to placing them in a period of darkness following the
holidays. However, in the Sunset Western Gardening Book (p. 480) there is a
reference to increasing the hours of darkness to 12-14 hours during the month
of November, as well as cooler night temps (50-55 degrees) to ensure bloom
set during the Christmas holiday season.
Hope to have a chance to see you during the holidays.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
"Audrey C. Hill" wrote:
> I was going to fumble around on the Internet looking for advice, when
> your name popped into my head. I bought a small flowering Christmas
> Catus with no instructions as to how to take care of it. I am going to
> transplant it into a larger pot, hoping to encourage it to grow LARGE. I
> am not good with plants. How often do you water them? Do you know
> anything about Christmas Catus? I heard after Christmas you are supposed
> to put it in a dark place, like a closet, until next Christmas. Any
> ideas??????
>
> Looking forward to your help!!!
>
> Audrey
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 18:26:06 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:26:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cleaning Terracotta Pots
In the event your question was not yet answered: the Arizona Master
Gardener Manual, also available online at
ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/index.html
noted the following in the indoor plant section:
"Wash soluble salts from clay pots with water and a scrub brush, and
wash all pots in a
solution of 1 part liquid bleach to 9 parts water."
Hope this helps.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
clnorton@mindspring.com wrote:
> How do you clean salt and mineral stains from teracotta pots.
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 18:41:54 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:41:54 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Palm Bud Rot
My understanding is that disease control is treatment of the palm itself (removing all infected material and using a copper fungicide on the bud/crown) and adjacent palms: time is of the
essence to prevent spread. Since it appears you already removed the tree, and presuming there are not adjacent, infected specimens, I do not see why the palm can't be replaced, although my
experience is with queen palms. You may want to consult our online publication AZ 1021 on Arizona Landscape Palms.
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
HRB85373@aol.com wrote:
> we lost a pineapple (phoenix) palm this summer apparently to palm heart rot. Can we plant another in the same location? If not, what could be planted there, a clean small tree or palm?
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 18:57:04 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:57:04 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Eucalyptus
There is an excellent review of eucalyptus in the Sunset Garden Book, page 281. If you knew your variety, their chart would help you to determine whether your
tree is suitable for our climate zone. Generally, eucalyptus need deep infrequent waterings. Perhaps your assessment of 'adequate water' is too much. Please
refer to our Master Gardener Manual, whose section on irrigation is very instructive, at:
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/Scheduling.html
Eucalyptus are susceptible to chlorosis in dense soils or with overwatering. Iron chelates suring the spring and fall growth periods are helpful to manage this
condition.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
antrasian@aol.com wrote:
> We have a eucalyptus tree which has some branches on it on which the leaves have died. What might be done to save this tree? It is getting adequate water.
>
> We're afraid the rest of the tree will die also.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bob antrasian
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 19:14:21 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 12:14:21 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Aleppo Pine Death
Your tree may have also suffered from a physiological condition known as Aleppo Pine Blight. Our online Master Gardener Manual contains a plant pathology section, with a chart dedicated to pine tree problems. You can reach it at:
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pathology/pine.html#pine
Hope this will help you to identify the cultivation practice(s) that may have led to the loss of your tree.
I concur with Jean's initial response regarding the power lines. I live in the Arcadia neighborhood of Phoenix where Aleppo's are everywhere, about and all around power lines. One problem could be that the pruning practices of the utilities to keep what
ultimately becomes an IMMENSE tree out of the power lines have not left a healthy specimen. It's unfortunate, but too often inappropriate trees are planted near the the power lines. I'm married to a utility employee, and as much as they are embarrassed
to perform those grossly deforming 'haircuts', it's important for our safety and power supply.
After you have the tree removed be sure to consult a tree publication for size and shape before replacing the tree. An excellent reference entitled Desert Shade Trees was co-published by the Desert Botanical Garden, SRP, City of Phoenix, Arizona
Forestry Council and Phoenix Urban Forestry several years ago. It specifically addresses the power line issue in its chart.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
solson@asu.edu wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 19:38:53 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 12:38:53 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Oleander Disease
I'm not sure whether we have yet responded to your question.
There is an Extension publication devoted to Diseases of Oleander (8213). It is not available online, but you can purchase it by mailing $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
It discusses Oleander gall, Texas root rot, iron chlorosis, frost and drought, and should help you to more specifically identify and treat the condition of your plants.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
saturn1066@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The leafs and branches of my oleander are beginning to try drwon and yellow and dry. Many of the branches are now nothing but dry, brittle dead wood. It doesn't appear to be the oleander gall described in the index. Although perhaps it is. Would welcome your recommendation..Please advise..
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 19:44:27 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 12:44:27 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [MG] ocotillo fence
Have you tried the Desert Botanical Garden. I seem to recall that one of the
newer thematic trails related to native gardening had ocotillo fences.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
"michelle swayne latkovski (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote:
> I am interested in any information you may have (or know where I could
> find) about installing an ocotillo fence. It's for a community garden/park
> in downtown Phoenix called Jardin de la Gente. We have someone from
> Gardener's World coming to help with the initial instruction of
> installation, but I would like to have a second opinion about it. (She
> recommends placing the canes 3- 4 inches apart.) There are other questions
> too. And also if any Master Gardeners would like to participate this
> Sat/Sun in the installation their help would be greatly appreciated. My
> number is 602-716-9189.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Michelle Swayne Latkovski
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Maricopa-mg mailing list
> Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 19:59:49 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 12:59:49 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pseudopilocereus azureus
I could not find your specific species but located a Pilosocereus in my reference book. It makes mention of a 4 foot growth after 10 years outside (approaching only a foot after
five years indoors) so either yours is another species or your mother should join our Master Gardener ranks!!
I think your best bet is to contact the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society (Gard Roper at 996-9718 or Ken Jantz at 860-2427) or the Desert Botanical Garden Hotline
(M-F 10 to 11:30 am 941-1255).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
emy_wa@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My mother has a potted blue pseudopilocereus azureus which has reached a height of 7'.
> I am afraid the slender cactus will just fall over and someone will be hurt. I currently have a sling around it because the plastic pot is warping from the plant's weight.
>
> Is it too old (over 10 yrs)to transplant into the yard?
> Who would be a likely person to do the work?
> Are there buyers for such plants?
>
> Any info which you can give me will be greatly appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 1 20:15:44 1999
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 13:15:44 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat control in gardens
I live in the Phoenix city area, with small lots, and am constantly waging this battle, since many neighbors let their cats roam all day and night. I use the pepper spray and pumice on the tops of our block fences, with a view to keeping the cats away, but as you note, it is temporary until washed away.
A dog outdoors might be helpful.
Unfortunately, when the cats are in season and and as many as four are fighting in our backyards and alleys, I have resorted to trapping them (a humane trap) and returning them to their owners with a good-humored explanation (it helps when I share that my own pet bunny who is kept in outdoors is not
pleased with them either), and certain 'evidence' of their visits in my yard. It helps to keep the kitties under control for a period of time at least. Most neighbors want to remain on good terms after all.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Dkaplan765@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I want to find an efficient way to keep cats from using my vegetable garden as a toilet.
> I have placed broken pumice stone all over which supposedly hurts their foot pads, I have sprayed pepper/garlic sprays all over (which just rinses right over when the sprinkler comes on) all to no avail. What do you suggest? They are destroying flowers & vegetables besides the unsanitation aspect.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 1 22:24:33 1999
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 17:24:33 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Petunias dying
One of the basic rules of gardening is not to plant the same crop for more
than two or three years consecutively. What has probably happened is a
fungus, most likely Phytophora, has invaded your soil, and petunias are one
of its favorite hosts. Check the stem at the soil line of one of the wilting
plants; If it is shrunken and brownish in color, then Phytophora or one of
the water molds is the problem. Fungicides that are recommended are Captan,
Banrot and Subdue.
If you replant with another annual do not use Pansies in the winter or Vinca
in the summer as they are very susceptible to the same fungi.
Be sure not to over water and do not plant any deeper than the top of the
root ball.
Good luck. Rod
From tooldye@earthlink.net Thu Dec 2 15:54:09 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 08:54:09 -0700 (MST)
From: tooldye@earthlink.net tooldye@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a beautiful female gingko tree.
Every year it produces more and more stinky
fruits. Is there any way to reduce the amount
of fruit this plant grows and proceeds to drop
on my high traffic sidewalk? I've heard rumors
of a sterilizer for fruit trees, would this
work for the gingko?
Would love some help!
Kim in KC
From jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com Thu Dec 2 15:59:56 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 08:59:56 -0700 (MST)
From: jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do you prune purple fountain grass?
1. Mass straight across cut-back
2. Thin out old
3. Cut out pie section
Thanks
From cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Thu Dec 2 16:01:13 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 09:01:13 -0700
From: Jones, Chris cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: [AG] Cat control in gardens
I'll offer my grandparents method cat control, and you can of course take it
or leave.
They too used a trap. Instead of returning the cat directly, they'ed give
the cat a cold shower with the water hose on full blast before releasing it.
Whether that worked to permanently deter the individual from coming in again
or not, I'm sure they got a cruel satisfaction from it. But with cats being
the intelligent creatures some claim they are, I'm sure they would think
twice before going back into their yard for at least the rest of the season.
Or at least steer clear of the trap the next night.
At least it's no more cruel than an intense pepper burn.
Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
The University of Arizona
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ 85501
Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda A. Guy
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 1:16 PM
To: Dkaplan765@aol.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: Re: [AG] Cat control in gardens
arid_gardener
I live in the Phoenix city area, with small lots, and am constantly waging
this battle, since many neighbors let their cats roam all day and night. I
use the pepper spray and pumice on the tops of our block fences, with a view
to keeping the cats away, but as you note, it is temporary until washed
away.
A dog outdoors might be helpful.
Unfortunately, when the cats are in season and and as many as four are
fighting in our backyards and alleys, I have resorted to trapping them (a
humane trap) and returning them to their owners with a good-humored
explanation (it helps when I share that my own pet bunny who is kept in
outdoors is not
pleased with them either), and certain 'evidence' of their visits in my
yard. It helps to keep the kitties under control for a period of time at
least. Most neighbors want to remain on good terms after all.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Dkaplan765@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I want to find an efficient way to keep cats from using my vegetable
garden as a toilet.
> I have placed broken pumice stone all over which supposedly hurts their
foot pads, I have sprayed pepper/garlic sprays all over (which just rinses
right over when the sprinkler comes on) all to no avail. What do you
suggest? They are destroying flowers & vegetables besides the unsanitation
aspect.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives -
From valentine@yahoo.com Thu Dec 2 18:39:17 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 11:39:17 -0700 (MST)
From: valentine@yahoo.com valentine@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
how do you buy ants
From AzGanna@aol.com Thu Dec 2 22:27:56 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:27:56 -0700 (MST)
From: AzGanna@aol.com AzGanna@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I just bought a home in Glendale Az and the ground is continuously wet. How often should winter grass be watered? How often should Citrus trees (orange, tangelo and grapefruit) be watered? How often should bougainvillas and mesquite trees be watered?
I would appreciate this information as soon as possible since the ground is really wet and cold and the grass is full of brownish white patches.
Thanks for you help. Lynne
From LEONARDEM@AOL.COM Fri Dec 3 01:07:55 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 18:07:55 -0700 (MST)
From: LEONARDEM@AOL.COM LEONARDEM@AOL.COM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
BEARS LIME TREES
WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR ARE THE FRUIT READY FOR PICKING
From tomwelsch@hotmail.com Fri Dec 3 02:28:14 1999
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 19:28:14 MST
From: tom welsch tomwelsch@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I don't know about barrier or deterrent methods... I have dogs, and they
absolutely love my flower beds... why not? It is after all the coolest,
softest soil around in the yard. so I always make sure to till and amend
and water an area for them... You may want to try this, it works with my
dogs, which usually just want a nice place to lay down. Sounds like these
cats just want a nice place to do their business... Hope it helps.
Tom Welsch
master Gardener Volunteer
>From: Dkaplan765@aol.com
>To:
>Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 20:50:09 -0700 (MST)
>
>arid_gardener
>I want to find an efficient way to keep cats from using my vegetable garden
>as a toilet.
>I have placed broken pumice stone all over which supposedly hurts their
>foot pads, I have sprayed pepper/garlic sprays all over (which just rinses
>right over when the sprinkler comes on) all to no avail. What do you
>suggest? They are destroying flowers & vegetables besides the unsanitation
>aspect.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Dec 3 04:42:40 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 21:42:40 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: clarification needed on planting zones
There is dot jpg AHS Plant Heat-Zone Map with an overlay of the
color-coded Heat-Zones at
http://www.suite101.com/userfiles/79/hz1024.jpg .
It shows most of Maricopa County in Zone 11. The northwest corner,
probably the Bradshaws, and the northern edge of the county along the
New River mountains appear to be in Zone 10. Kinda hard to tell the
difference between dark orange and darker orange. My previous post on
the subject had indicated the map was not available on the web. -Olin
From Jenfloy@aol.com Fri Dec 3 06:32:42 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 23:32:42 -0700 (MST)
From: Jenfloy@aol.com Jenfloy@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I planted a saphire dragon tree back in October and it's only grown to about 4 feet tall. The info sheet that came with it says that if the tree doesn't make 5 feet by the first frost then you are to cut it back and wait till the spring. I will I know that I need to cut it back? Will it just go brown and dry up? I do I know that it didn't get tall enough?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu Dec 2 11:31:26 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 04:31:26 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Christmas Cactus
My Christmas Cactus died the summer I kept it on an east facing patio
near Phoenix. It got too hot there!
In Northern Ohio, my Christmas Cactus was kept near a South facing
sliding glass door to a green house off the basement of my home. It
got sun but was cool through the winter (50 degrees). It was watered
haphazardly (when the pads got soft and rather empty looking). This
plant was brought into the warm part of the house when it showed buds
until they were done blooming and then it went back to the basement.
It was a peachy pink and bloomed twice a year ~ near Thanksgiving and
around Easter. There are other heat sensitive plants: hens &
chicks...............
Very few plants can survive long in complete shade.............
On Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:16:43 -0700 "Linda A. Guy"
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Sorry for the delayed response due to Thanksgiving. I'm also posting
>your
>answer to the readers of our website, which you can always use to
>research
>your gardening questions:
>http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
>
>According to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension publication MC-38:
>'To keep them at their best, bright light and day temperatures of 65
>to 70
>degrees (55 to 65 degrees at night) is recommended. Keep the potting
>soil
>evenly moist, not wet. With proper care, they can be kept for years as
>indoor
>potted plants." When you water, make sure the root ball is thoroughly
>moistened, some drainage into tray to ensure leaching.
>
>There was no reference to placing them in a period of darkness
>following the
>holidays. However, in the Sunset Western Gardening Book (p. 480) there
>is a
>reference to increasing the hours of darkness to 12-14 hours during
>the month
>of November, as well as cooler night temps (50-55 degrees) to ensure
>bloom
>set during the Christmas holiday season.
>
>Hope to have a chance to see you during the holidays.
>
>Linda Guy
>Master Gardener
>
>"Audrey C. Hill" wrote:
>
>> I was going to fumble around on the Internet looking for advice,
>when
>> your name popped into my head. I bought a small flowering
>Christmas
>> Catus with no instructions as to how to take care of it. I am going
>to
>> transplant it into a larger pot, hoping to encourage it to grow
>LARGE. I
>> am not good with plants. How often do you water them? Do you know
>> anything about Christmas Catus? I heard after Christmas you are
>supposed
>> to put it in a dark place, like a closet, until next Christmas.
>Any
>> ideas??????
>>
>> Looking forward to your help!!!
>>
>> Audrey
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu Dec 2 11:22:00 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 04:22:00 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Petunias
When I have a problem like yours, I change the plant..... crop rotation.
Your soil has become infected or even deficient in some micronutrient
that petunias need. By using a different plant you'll starve the
infecting micro organism or use different micronutrients. Try sweet
peas in the cool weather to improve the soil. You have ample evidence
that petunias are unsuccessful in that spot. Geraniums, calendula,
annual poppies, marigolds, pansies, English daisies are common cool
weather plants to consider. Vinca, cosmos, zinnia, sunflowers (there
are some shorter & double ones) are possible hot weather ones.
On Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:56:25 -0700 (MST) Efamlie@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>Hello. Every fall I plant two flower beds with petunias. Have never
>had a problem with them before..always beautiful! This year am having
>a horrible time with them. The plants slowly develop a "wilt"...then
>die. I have removed dead petunias and replanted (am on third
>planting)! Have purchased different petunias from different
>nurserys--thinking it could be diseased product (?). What is going
>on....HELP! Thanks so much..anxiously awaiting your reply.
>Sincerely, Mary
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From popsy@wans.ner Fri Dec 3 02:23:59 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 19:23:59 -0700 (MST)
From: popsy@wans.ner popsy@wans.ner
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My mother in Black Canyon City had a silk tree (albizia) that seemed to do well for a while after planted, then started to decline. They inspected the roots and found small (less than 1/4 inch)fuzzy ball-like, whitish protrusions on the roots. They would be in clusters up to an inch wide. Could this be a fungus that killed the tree? If so, how does one deal with it?
From popsy@access1.net Fri Dec 3 02:27:34 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 19:27:34 -0700 (MST)
From: popsy@access1.net popsy@access1.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I just sent duplicate messages, the second because my email address was wrong in the first, the one given with this messages is correct.
From HelensBaby@aol.com Fri Dec 3 15:07:11 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 08:07:11 -0700 (MST)
From: HelensBaby@aol.com HelensBaby@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am trying to find some information on the Jacaranda tree. A neighbor had one and I noticed it grew very fast. I live in Yuma. Any information you can give me about this tree will be appreciated. Thank you
From popsy@access1.net Fri Dec 3 02:25:04 1999
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 19:25:04 -0700 (MST)
From: popsy@access1.net popsy@access1.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My mother in Black Canyon City had a silk tree (albizia) that seemed to do well for a while after planted, then started to decline. They inspected the roots and found small (less than 1/4 inch)fuzzy ball-like, whitish protrusions on the roots. They would be in clusters up to an inch wide. Could this be a fungus that killed the tree? If so, how does one deal with it?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Dec 3 16:14:52 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 11:14:52 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Fwd: Watering landscape plants
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From: RodMcQ6@aol.com
Full-name: RodMcQ6
Message-ID: <0.be622028.257945c5@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 11:11:49 EST
Subject: Watering landscape plants
To: AZGanna@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: Windows AOL sub 45
Lynne, If your grass is winter rye watering every three to four days should
be adequate, if it is Bermuda then water it once a month during the cooler
months. The citrus and mesquite if just planted should be deep watered every
two weeks, if they are established over a year then once a month. With the
Bougainvillea once it has become established ( one year old ) you will have
more blooms if you remove the water entirely except for deep watering once a
month during the hot weather.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck. Rod
--part1_0.5824f7e8.2579467c_boundary--
From ClaireASP@aol.com Sat Dec 4 00:48:38 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 17:48:38 -0700 (MST)
From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My son just recently moved into a new home in Gilbert. He has to landscape the backyard. He is just like me; very interested in plants. On his Christmas list, he asked for a Queen Palm. Would this be a bad time of the year for him to plant this? I thought that maybe Spring would be better. Let me know what you think. Thanks for all your help.
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri Dec 3 14:08:51 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 07:08:51 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] watering
Your irrigation system has defaulted to everyday watering..... a very bad
idea. The ground needs to dry out between wet periods or fungus disease
will take over. Citrus & bougainvillas need water about once a month
during the coolest months in AZ. The grass probably needs it once a
week. When you water, put on enough to get those roots wet (for grass
- a foot down) {for citrus - 3 feet down} then allow the soil to dry out
before watering again. You will need to pay attention to quantity the
first couple of times after changing the settings. You probably need
to change the battery that backs up your electrical system, too.
On Thu, 2 Dec 1999 15:27:56 -0700 (MST) AzGanna@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I just bought a home in Glendale Az and the ground is continuously
>wet. How often should winter grass be watered? How often should
>Citrus trees (orange, tangelo and grapefruit) be watered? How often
>should bougainvillas and mesquite trees be watered?
>
>I would appreciate this information as soon as possible since the
>ground is really wet and cold and the grass is full of brownish white
>patches.
>
>Thanks for you help. Lynne
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri Dec 3 14:45:49 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 07:45:49 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Citrus Ripening
I picked most of my limes by last week (one still on the tree). They
get sweeter as they hang on which doesn't bother me and I didn't have
enough to give away since this is one dwarf tree that is really going to
be dwarf.................
My Lisbon lemon is planted north of a 5 foot tall wall and I've been
picking them since October while they were still green. They are just
starting to turn yellow................. This "dwarf" tree was planted
6 feet from my back door and, of course, is not going to be dwarf!!! so
I'm pruning regularly to control the thorny branches.
My OLD citrus book by Richard Ray & Lance Walheim: "Citrus: How to
Select, Grow and Enjoy" lists for Cal. & Ariz. Desert Zone:
Washington Navel Orange = Mid Nov.-Dec.
Trovita Orange Jan - Feb
Marrs (natural dwarf) orange Oct - Feb
Encore Mandarine Mar - June
Kinnow Dec - Feb
Eureka Lemon Sep - Oct; Mar - May
Lisbon Lemon Sep - Oct; Apr - June
Ponderosa Sep - Aug
Marsh & Red Blush Grapefruit Jan - May
Mexican Lime July - Oct.
Bearss Jun - Sep
Minneola Tangelo Jan - Feb
Orlando Tangelo Dec - Feb
My book is old and I've left out several varieties. They tend to ripen
December - Feb. I've planted a Valencia Orange because it ripens later
(March) than my other varieties. I've tasted all my trees this month
and they are a bit sour to my taste............ However, I leave
grapefruit on (since my tree is so big and I don't mind lessening my next
crop). The grapefruit is not really eatable after late August; you can
tell the difference between each years crop from the fruit color.
Color is not an indicator for taste........
On Thu, 2 Dec 1999 18:07:55 -0700 (MST) LEONARDEM@AOL.COM writes:
>arid_gardener
>BEARS LIME TREES
>WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR ARE THE FRUIT READY FOR PICKING
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri Dec 3 14:03:08 1999
Date: Fri, 3 Dec 1999 07:03:08 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] ants
Ants are attracted to organic matter and will come when you add sawdust
or even manure to soil. They also love the drippings from hummingbird
feeders if your feeder sways at all in the wind...................
On Thu, 2 Dec 1999 11:39:17 -0700 (MST) valentine@yahoo.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>how do you buy ants
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From mr_mike@bigfoot.com Sat Dec 4 15:34:35 1999
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 08:34:35 -0700 (MST)
From: mr_mike@bigfoot.com mr_mike@bigfoot.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
should it be pruned back? If so, when and
how much?
From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Dec 4 15:59:16 1999
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 08:59:16 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Brittlebush
From the book The Low-Water Flower Gardener, by Eric A. Johnson
and Scott Millard:
Brittlebush, Encelia farinosa:
With time, landscape plants often develop heavy woody
branches. Thin and cut back soft branches at least one-third,
maintaining natural form, for renewed growth after flowering.
After shearing, selectively thin inside branches to allow
sunlight into the plant's interior.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> how much?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Dec 4 16:14:22 1999
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 09:14:22 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Jacaranda
The following information was found in the Sunset Western Garden Book:
Jacaranda mimosifolia, deciduous to semi evergreen tree, hardy in zones 12, 13 and 15-24 (Yuma is zone 13). Requires full sun and infrequent watering. It is native to Brazil and often sold as J. acutifolia.
Grows 25-40 ft high, 15-30 ft wide. Open, irregular, oval headed; sometimes multitrunked or even shrubby. Finely cut, fern like leaves, usually dropping in February-March. New leaves may grow quickly or branches
may remain bare until tree flowers - usually in June, but bloom is possible any time from April to September. Blossoms lavender blue, tubular, 2 inches long in many 8-inch clusters. white-flowered "Alba" is
sometimes seen, lusher foliage, longer blooming period, and sparser flowers. All forms have roundish, flat seed capsules, quite decorative in arrangements. Fairly hardy after it attains some mature, hard wood;
young plants are tender below 25 degrees but often come back from freeze to make multistemmed, shrubby plants. Takes a wide variety of soils but does best in sandy soil.
I hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
HelensBaby@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am trying to find some information on the Jacaranda tree. A neighbor had one and I noticed it grew very fast. I live in Yuma. Any information you can give me about this tree will be appreciated. Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 4 23:36:40 1999
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 18:36:40 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Queen Palm , Planting Time
The preferred time to plant a Queen Palm is spring to early summer, however
in the low desert I see them planted year round. My recommendation would be
to avoid planting during November thru February. You can access the U of A
Bulletin on Arizona Landscape Palms at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to open it; if you don't have Adobe you
can download it free.
Good luck. Rod
From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat Dec 4 23:13:32 1999
Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 16:13:32 -0700
From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Right Plant, Right Place
Perhaps one of the other messages in this story is the importance of
choosing to place plants in locations with room for their mature
height. Choose not to plant trees and other tall plants near power lines.
Lucy
At 06:54 AM 11/30/1999 -0700, you wrote:
>arid_gardener
>There have been a few pruned in a similar way near where I live and they
>got arms just below the cut. None of them died. It doesn't look like
>anything was done to the cuts. It is amazing how much nerve some
>people have! Did SRP remove the prunings? Apparently saguaro
>cactus root from the ribs so you could try propagating the pieces.
>You grieve for the plant but perhaps you will like the new shape in a few
>years. The 45 degree angle will help water run off and avoid rot
>problems............. There is a black oozing, bacterial infection that
>devastates saguaro when it occurs but that is the only thing that usually
>kills them other than too much water.
>
>
>On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:31:09 -0700 (MST) alan35@goodnet.com writes:
> >arid_gardener
> >Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year
> >old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What
> >harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow
> >the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old
> >plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve
> >this fantastic plant.
> >
> >Thanks for any help you can provide.
> >Alan
> >WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com
> >
> >The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page
> >http://thewall-usa.com
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >Archives -
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
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>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807
Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax: (602) 470-8092
email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/
From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat Dec 4 13:00:37 1999
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 06:00:37 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: silk tree (albizia)
The plant nurisher needs to think about how the area was treated: how
much water? how often? how much fertilizer? how often? How does
the land drain? what is the condition of that soil? sandy? pH?
organic content? How much sun does the area get each day in summer?
winter? This thinking period may yield the knowledge of what might have
caused the decline. . . After considering all possible varients, it
is probably best to chose from another family of plants than the one
which has just died.
I'm pretty sure that Baker's Nursery has an outstanding specimen of
"silk floss tree" behind the main cash register over a patio containing a
water feature................ Perhaps Jim Baker could advise you about
possible threats to the species.
On Thu, 2 Dec 1999 19:23:59 -0700 (MST) popsy@wans.ner writes:
>arid_gardener
>My mother in Black Canyon City had a silk tree (albizia) that seemed
>to do well for a while after planted, then started to decline. They
>inspected the roots and found small (less than 1/4 inch)fuzzy
>ball-like, whitish protrusions on the roots. They would be in clusters
>up to an inch wide. Could this be a fungus that killed the tree? If
>so, how does one deal with it?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From babsdelite@aol.com Sun Dec 5 05:30:30 1999
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 22:30:30 -0700 (MST)
From: babsdelite@aol.com babsdelite@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What time of year is it best to fertilize citrus trees and queen palms? I'll be waiting for your reply. Thanks, Babs
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 5 19:15:49 1999
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 14:15:49 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Fertilizing citrus and Queen palms
Babs, Both citrus and Queen Palms will benefit from fertilizing three to four
times a year starting in February or March and ending in July or August. Be
sure that you use a fertilizer designed for the Queen Palms on the palms for
they have special needs.
Good luck. Rod
From thelma@c2i2.com Sun Dec 5 17:18:06 1999
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 10:18:06 -0700 (MST)
From: thelma@c2i2.com thelma@c2i2.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
what time of the year do I prune my roses
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 6 21:28:21 1999
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 16:28:21 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Roses, Pruning
Thelma, If you live in the low desert, January is the time to prune roses. We
also prune in September, but much lighter.
If you would like info on how to prune roses, I'll be glad to send you the
latest.
Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Dec 7 17:34:15 1999
Date: Tue, 07 Dec 1999 10:34:15 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
Comment: I am having a cat problem in my vegetable/flower gardens. They
>use it for a toilet thus digging up the plants. They are my own 2 cats in
>addition to a neighborhood cat so trapping them is not the answer since
>they live here and are outside cats. Pepper/garlic spray on the plants
>doesn't work as it washes away immediately and the pumice stone I have
>scattered in the exposed soil does not seem to deter them either.
Please respond to DKaplan765@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U
of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
From alwardt@futureone.com Tue Dec 7 01:08:58 1999
Date: Mon, 6 Dec 1999 18:08:58 -0700 (MST)
From: alwardt@futureone.com alwardt@futureone.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
The first two years of production on my single tangerine tree have produced a large crop of small, thin-skinned,beautifully colored and textured "very sour" fruit. The tree is on a drip system. We live in the desert near Aguila. Is there anything that can be done to make this abundant crop edible?
From tderieg@goodnet.com Tue Dec 7 19:39:54 1999
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 12:39:54 -0700
From: Tom Derieg tderieg@goodnet.com
Subject: [AG] pre-emergent treatment for spurge in lawn
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I read that this is the time to put on the pre emergent treatment for =
weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. I can find things to kill =
the weeds but they also kill the grass. The one thing I found said to =
apply when the weeds are growing but the spurge doesn't really grow till =
the weather gets hot. Is this the right time and if so could you give me =
a brand name and maybe where to find it? I looked at Home Depot and Tip =
Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BF40B0.29C8A3E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I read that this is the time to put on the pre =
emergent=20
treatment for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. I can find =
things to=20
kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. The one thing I found =
said to=20
apply when the weeds are growing but the spurge doesn't really grow till =
the=20
weather gets hot. Is this the right time and if so could you give me a =
brand=20
name and maybe where to find it? I looked at Home Depot and Tip =
Top=20
Nursery. Thanks. Peggy Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_0059_01BF40B0.29C8A3E0--
From rknott@inficad.com Wed Dec 8 05:30:51 1999
Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 22:30:51 -0700 (MST)
From: rknott@inficad.com rknott@inficad.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a drip system (2 gal/hr) one setting for plants and one for a flower bed. Is there a watering guideline for how long, and how many days/week that I should water during the different seasons.
Thank you,
Ray Knott (Sun Lakes)
From Tpjscarp@aol.com Wed Dec 8 23:37:48 1999
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 16:37:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Tpjscarp@aol.com Tpjscarp@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
how much water does a mexican fan palm need in gallons per week or month 3 years old?
From judithcheek@yahoo.com Thu Dec 9 02:06:46 1999
Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 19:06:46 -0700 (MST)
From: judithcheek@yahoo.com judithcheek@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it. where can I buy Brittlebush?
From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu Dec 9 21:46:26 1999
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 14:46:26 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #44 - 2 msgs
Hi Judith:
Could you give us an idea of where you live? That might help narrow down
the list of places to check out. For what it's worth, in my experience,
Brittlebush (along with a lot of other low desert plants) are hard to find
at the nurseries in the winter. The nurseries tend to have these as the
weather warms up and the plants start leafing out and/or blooming. Hope we
can help.
-mike t.
arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes:
>Message: 2
>Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1999 19:06:46 -0700 (MST)
>From:
>To:
>Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there
>i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and
>stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it.
>where can I buy Brittlebush?
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From saz621@primenet.com Thu Dec 9 20:43:33 1999
Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1999 13:43:33 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Mary Irish wrote:
> Judith,
> You can find that plant at most TipTop Nurseries, Baker's Nursery, and most certainly at Desert Tree Nursery. There are others I am sure. Good luck, Mary
>
> judithcheek@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it. where can I buy Brittlebush?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Fri Dec 10 19:09:18 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 12:09:18 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] pre-emergent treatment for spurge in lawn
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Tom & Peggy Derieg
Hope that this is a little helpful in your search for a Pre-Emergent =
Herbicide for your lawn.
I assume that you have a bermudagrass lawn of come variety and are a low =
desert resident. Did you overseed with ryegrass this fall? The =
instructions on the bag that you thought meant that it could kill the =
grass usually refers to new grass seedlings - not to a mature turf =
plants. If your ryegrass has been in for a couple months now, you can =
go ahead and apply one of these "weed & feed" type products at the rate =
recommended on the bag (NOT any higher!) and should have no problems =
with death to your ryegrass or the underlying dormant bermuda plants. =
You just should not apply before or shortly after putting down ryegrass =
seed in the fall, OR new bermuda seed in the late spring/summer.
Generally we recommend that the pre-emergent herbicide and fertilizer =
combination products are applied in the Fall (if you do not overseed) =
and again in early Spring (whether you overseed or not) - this will =
help take care of the crop of fall sprouting weed species and the crop =
of spring sprouters (like spurge) as they pop up. Read the bag labels =
closely and make sure it says Pre-emergent and then apply in February or =
early March for spurge control. Lots of different brand labels, so =
cannot recommend any specific brand - just depends on the one that =
your store has in stock.
The post-emergent weed killers are for treatment of weeds in winter and =
summer, after the weeds already germinated and established because you =
missed your fall or spring applications of pre-emergents. The winter =
cold should kill any spurge you have in your lawn now, and a properly =
applied early spring product should stop most of the seeds from =
sprouting next year.
One thing - usually the nurseries and garden centers do not stock =
these pre-emergents in mid-summer and mid-winter, which may explain your =
difficulty finding them. They stock them only during the part of the =
year when they should be applied - early spring and early fall. Wait =
until February to look for it again.=20
ALSO, a critical factor in weed control in a lwan is to keep the lawn =
thick and dense and healthy. Proper lawn care - watering, mowing, =
fertilizing, etc. - will usually prevent thin or bare areas - no thin or =
bare areas means no sunlight o nthe soil which =3D no weed seeds =
sprouting each year. Check our University of Arizona and Maricopa =
County Extension website for turf care information to get your lawn =
healthy again. ALSO, we have a turf and lawn care class scheduled for =
this year that would probably help you a lot. Contact Master Gardener =
Lori Thompson at lthompson@rocketmail.com for details of time, date, =
cost, etc. for this upcoming class session.
Good Luck! =20
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
**********************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Derieg
To: arid gardener
Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] pre-emergent treatment for spurge in lawn
=20
=20
I read that this is the time to put on the pre emergent treatment =
for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. I can find things to =
kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. The one thing I found said =
to apply when the weeds are growing but the spurge doesn't really grow =
till the weather gets hot. Is this the right time and if so could you =
give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? I looked at Home Depot =
and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Tom & Peggy =
Derieg
Hope that this is a little helpful in your search =
for a=20
Pre-Emergent Herbicide for your lawn.
I assume that you have a bermudagrass lawn of come =
variety and=20
are a low desert resident. Did you overseed with =
ryegrass this=20
fall? The instructions on the bag that you =
thought meant=20
that it could kill the grass usually refers to new grass seedlings =
- =20
not to a mature turf plants. If your ryegrass has been =
in for=20
a couple months now, you can go ahead and apply one of these "weed =
&=20
feed" type products at the rate recommended on the bag (NOT any =
higher!)=20
and should have no problems with death to your ryegrass or the =
underlying=20
dormant bermuda plants. You just should not apply before or =
shortly=20
after putting down ryegrass seed in the fall, OR new bermuda seed in the =
late=20
spring/summer.
Generally we recommend that the pre-emergent =
herbicide and=20
fertilizer combination products are applied in the Fall (if you do not =
overseed)=20
and again in early Spring (whether you overseed or not) - =
this will=20
help take care of the crop of fall sprouting weed species and the crop =
of spring=20
sprouters (like spurge) as they pop up. Read the bag labels =
closely=20
and make sure it says Pre-emergent and then apply in February or early =
March for=20
spurge control. Lots of different brand labels, so =
cannot=20
recommend any specific brand - just depends on the one that =
your=20
store has in stock.
The post-emergent weed killers are =
for treatment=20
of weeds in winter and summer, after the weeds already germinated and=20
established because you missed your fall or spring applications of=20
pre-emergents. The winter cold should kill any spurge =
you have=20
in your lawn now, and a properly applied early spring product should =
stop most=20
of the seeds from sprouting next year.
One thing - usually the nurseries and =
garden=20
centers do not stock these pre-emergents in mid-summer and mid-winter, =
which may=20
explain your difficulty finding them. They stock them only =
during=20
the part of the year when they should be applied - early spring and =
early=20
fall. Wait until February to look for it again. =
ALSO, a critical factor in weed control in a lwan is =
to keep=20
the lawn thick and dense and healthy. Proper lawn care =
-=20
watering, mowing, fertilizing, etc. - will usually prevent thin or bare =
areas -=20
no thin or bare areas means no sunlight o nthe soil which =3D no weed =
seeds=20
sprouting each year. Check our University of Arizona =
and=20
Maricopa County Extension website for turf care information to get your =
lawn=20
healthy again. ALSO, we have a turf and lawn care class =
scheduled=20
for this year that would probably help you a lot. =
Contact=20
Master Gardener Lori Thompson at lthompson@rocketmail.com&nbs=
p; for=20
details of time, date, cost, etc. for this upcoming class =
session.
Good Luck!
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa =
County
**********************************************************
-----Original =
Message-----
From:=20
Tom Derieg <tderieg@goodnet.com>
To:=
=20
arid gardener <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>
Date:=20
Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] =
pre-emergent=20
treatment for spurge in lawn
I read that this is the time to put on the =
pre=20
emergent treatment for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. =
I can=20
find things to kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. =
The one=20
thing I found said to apply when the weeds are growing but the =
spurge=20
doesn't really grow till the weather gets hot. Is this the right =
time and if=20
so could you give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? =
I looked=20
at Home Depot and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy=20
Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740--
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Dec 10 22:58:29 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:58:29 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Institute of Desert Ecology
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist (Mammals) -Carol
Olson, M.S., University of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona
(Herpetology)-Linwood Smith, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds & Plants) -Bob
Scarborough, Consulting Geologist (Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available through the
University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1 unit) for an
additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate), payable at the
Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a means of
bringing
together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors for field studies of the
Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held at Catalina State Park, at the base
of Santa Catalina Mountains, April 13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may
be earned during the sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am, however, all
participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12 after 4 pm to
register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee includes a waiver of park
entrance and camping fees for April 12 through 16. The program will end at 2:30
pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State Park. The
spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina Mountains forms the backdrop
for this 5,500 acre desert park located just north of Tucson at elevations
ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The desert washes, canyons and bajadas
contain a vast array of desert plants and wildlife. The park is a popular
birding area and has a bird list of over 150 species that have been seen within
its borders. Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees,
adjacent to undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian
areas, and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot, but
expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with emphasis on
relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical characteristics of
the desert rather than classification and identification. Our days start early
and optional activities such as owling, blacklighting for insects and star
talks extend into the evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in
small groups during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of the Audobon
Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in good health.
Registration is limited to no more than 65 people. Faculty members are
experienced at teaching students with different knowledge levels; anyone with
an interest in natural history and desert ecology can participate. No pets are
allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own tents or campers.
Water is available at the site, but there are no electrical or water hookups.
To avoid disrupting the peaceful surroundings, operation of generators is not
permitted at the site. Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and
the park has holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate vegetarians. Before
early field sessions, a nutritious pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact
the director for further information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes instruction, camp
services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on Thursday morning and ending
with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable deposit of $45 per person must
accompany the registration form. The balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please
make checks payable to the Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be
refunded for cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are available
(contact your director for information). *To avoid disappointment, please
register early, since the Institute is often fully enrolled several months in
advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of Desert Ecology, 300 E.
University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386, sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of
Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie
Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist
(Mammals) -Carol Olson, M.S., University
of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil
Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Herpetology)-Linwood Smith,
Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl
Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds &
Plants) -Bob Scarborough, Consulting Geologist
(Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available
through the University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1
unit) for an additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate),
payable at the Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a
means of bringing together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors
for field studies of the Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held
at Catalina State Park, at the base of Santa Catalina Mountains, April
13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may be earned during the
sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am,
however, all participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12
after 4 pm to register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee
includes a waiver of park entrance and camping fees for April 12 through
16. The program will end at 2:30 pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State
Park. The spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina
Mountains forms the backdrop for this 5,500 acre desert park located just
north of Tucson at elevations ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The
desert washes, canyons and bajadas contain a vast array of desert plants
and wildlife. The park is a popular birding area and has a bird
list of over 150 species that have been seen within its borders.
Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees, adjacent to
undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian areas,
and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot,
but expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with
emphasis on relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical
characteristics of the desert rather than classification and
identification. Our days start early and optional activities such
as owling, blacklighting for insects and star talks extend into the
evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in small groups
during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of
the Audobon Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in
good health. Registration is limited to no more than 65
people. Faculty members are experienced at teaching students with
different knowledge levels; anyone with an interest in natural history
and desert ecology can participate. No pets are allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own
tents or campers. Water is available at the site, but there are no
electrical or water hookups. To avoid disrupting the peaceful
surroundings, operation of generators is not permitted at the site.
Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and the park has
holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate
vegetarians. Before early field sessions, a nutritious
pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact the director for further
information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes
instruction, camp services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on
Thursday morning and ending with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable
deposit of $45 per person must accompany the registration form. The
balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please make checks payable to the
Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be refunded for
cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are
available (contact your director for information). *To avoid
disappointment, please register early, since the Institute is often fully
enrolled several months in advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax
deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm
or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of
Desert Ecology, 300 E. University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386,
sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT--
From Kirotate@aol.com Sat Dec 11 00:20:56 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Kirotate@aol.com Kirotate@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My orange tree has blossoms and it is only early December. I'm wondering why, and what to expect next. The oranges that had already set on it seem not to be turning color, yet there are of normal size. Incidentally, the orange tree next to it, is proceding on a normal schedule; I think the trees are 10-12 years old and my guess is they are Arizona sweet oranges. Thank you.
From bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat Dec 11 01:26:06 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:26:06 -0700
From: Carl Olson bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] ants
That's an interesting question. The only time I know of people getting ants
is for an ant farm and normally those things have a supplier. I am assuming
you want live ants, not dead ones. You might also try Wards Scientific or
Carolina Biological Supply for live material.
Carl
Carl A. Olson
Associate Curator
Dept. of Entomology
http://deadbugs.agforbes.arizona.edu/
University of Arizona
Tucson, AZ 85721
FAX (520) 621-1150 Office (520) 621-5925
e-mail bugman@ag.arizona.edu
NOTE from Lucy Bradley
Carolina Biological Supply, 2700 York Road, Burlington, NC 27215 has an
online catalog that contains an Ant Farm with a
certificate for ants. However, Arizona Residents must have a certificate
from USDA to receive ants.
From edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com Sat Dec 11 01:34:35 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:34:35 -0700
From: by way of Lucy Bradley edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com
Subject: [AG] free fertilizer
Free organic fertilizer: goat manure; animals fed on alfalfa hay; no bermuda or
weeds. Gilbert, Arizona near Warner and Cooper roads. call for directions:
480-899-0534.
Thanks!
Edythe Jensen
From judithcheek@yahoo.com Sat Dec 11 02:53:31 1999
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Marilyn Lehrbach judithcheek@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Found it!
Thank you. I found some brittlebush at Tip Top
Nursery on Bell Rd, Glendale. We are from WA. state
and desert gardening is very new to us as we come from
a wet and less than always sunny climate. Again,
thank you. Marilyn L. (judithcheek@yahoo.com)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
From cmcarlton@uswest.net Sat Dec 11 15:58:00 1999
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:58:00 -0700 (MST)
From: cmcarlton@uswest.net cmcarlton@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
If lemons or oranges are picked off the tree a little early, will they ripen? My parents are visiting from Ohio and leaving on 12/14. They want to ake some citrus back with them, but it is not quite ready. Please advise. Thanks.
From j.turbenson@att.net Sat Dec 11 16:13:44 1999
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:44 -0700 (MST)
From: j.turbenson@att.net j.turbenson@att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We moved here this summer from Minnesota. We have a large irrigated lot in Gilbert. I already have a raised bed garden on the property and flower beds. So far, anything I have planted just seems to sit there for awhile and dies. Nothing flourishes but acts like it is poisoned somehow. I have tried tomatos, petunias, herbs, Mums, etc. but nothing seems to want to grow and just withers and dies or stays in the soil without growth. Help. Thanks.
From Sunsfan001@aol.com Sat Dec 11 18:26:34 1999
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:26:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Sunsfan001@aol.com Sunsfan001@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am interested in growing saguaros from seed. eg pre-treatment of seeds? potting medium, soil dampness, germination time, etc.
Thnaks,
Cheyl
From mulness@uswest.net Sat Dec 11 21:27:49 1999
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:27:49 -0700 (MST)
From: mulness@uswest.net mulness@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Every year I grow a number of tomato and
pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
have some leaves that are slightly curled
and the whole plant does not have healthy
green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
and peppers but are not growing to the size
they should. We had a few white flies but not
amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
the years we have mulched and fertilized so
we have a very good soil base.
We use a soaker hose watering system so they
are watered well.
I hope I have given you enough so you can
come up with an answer.
Thank You, Merv Ulness
mulness@uswest.net
From eandrcook@hotmail.com Sun Dec 12 03:02:19 1999
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: eandrcook@hotmail.com eandrcook@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
From teacher@bmol.com Sun Dec 12 13:12:18 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST)
From: teacher@bmol.com teacher@bmol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have Flame and Thompson varieties.
From helend5@aol.com Sun Dec 12 20:02:19 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 13:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: helend5@aol.com helend5@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 2 questions.
1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help.
2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help!
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 22:18:06 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis. Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them. They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season. But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 22:37:43 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:37:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Utility Line Clearing - Saguaro
I know you are frustrated with SRP's having cut your your majestic plant. I forwarded your note to the relevant unit (through my husband who is an SRP employee) to confirm my understanding of the utility's line clearing practices. It is the homeowner's responsibility to keep plant material pruned to a point that is reasonably clear of the lines for obvious safety
reasons and power delivery needs. As a homeowner, it would therefore be up to me to engage in the most beneficial horticultural practices for my plants/trees as well as the balanced look of the trees and aesthetics of my yard.
If I do not do so, and my trees threatened the lines in some way, the utility is permitted to 'clear the lines'. Although effort is made to use horticulturally correct pruning techniques, only that part of my tree that is in the lines will be cut.
Also, SRP would contact me only if they needed access to my property; if they can access my plant material through the alley or other easements or rights of way, they will do so without prior notice, as is their right.
The 45 degree angle was a good practice to minimize damage to your saguaro, as noted by a colleague who previously responded. If you have any questions for SRP itself, please contact the Line Clearing Division at 602/236-8888.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
alan35@goodnet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve this fantastic plant.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> Alan
> WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com
>
> The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page
> http://thewall-usa.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:09:19 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:09:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Brittlebush
I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> how much?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:16:42 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:16:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:26:02 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:26:02 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Lime Harvest Time
The UofA published a nice discussion of Citrus Trees in the Home Garden
(formerly #8464; I'm not sure of the new #) which suggests that Bearss
ripens from July through November, but will carry some fruit all year.
Taste testing is the best barometer, but remember, this is a tart lime.
If you're interested in the publication send $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Hope you're enjoying your harvest!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
LEONARDEM@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> BEARS LIME TREES
> WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR ARE THE FRUIT READY FOR PICKING
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:30:52 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:30:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Purchasing Brittlebush
This is more commonly available than you might expect. I've seen them at Harpers, Tip Top, Bakers, Desert Winds....now that xeriscaping is taking off (low water use) many nurseries have them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
judithcheek@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it. where can I buy Brittlebush?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:37:24 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:37:24 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Tomatos and Peppers in the Winter
Your plants would appear to be doing what comes naturally, as these are
fundamentally warm season vegetables in our area. I've never tried to
keep these two plants through the winter (I'm too preoccupied with my
cool season crops and don't want to allot the space!) but I really give
high marks to a device called the "wall 'o' water". It's about 2.5 feet
high and is a round plastic sleeve that fits around plants. The walls
are cylinders into which you put water with the garden hose. This then
becomes a hothouse for your plants.
I usually plant my "summer" tomatos mid Feb to March using these little
greenhouses and always have tomatos late April/May. I don't know why
these couldn't work for you during this season, too. You may want to
cover the tops on evenings during frost warnings.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mulness@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Every year I grow a number of tomato and
> pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
> have some leaves that are slightly curled
> and the whole plant does not have healthy
> green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
> and peppers but are not growing to the size
> they should. We had a few white flies but not
> amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
> the years we have mulched and fertilized so
> we have a very good soil base.
> We use a soaker hose watering system so they
> are watered well.
> I hope I have given you enough so you can
> come up with an answer.
>
> Thank You, Merv Ulness
> mulness@uswest.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 12 23:56:42 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:56:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Frost Protection
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that
will do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard.
Only in the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights
and extension cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I
grow) to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry
I couldn't resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the
horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or some
protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow
mine, besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer
anyway. I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh
seed or transplants in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
> I know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
> and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
> Brocoli? Leeks? I have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up
> against the south facing wall of my house. The lows where I live are
> often 10 to 12 degrees lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on
> the radio. The lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If
> the radio says 45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover
> the plants if it less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there
> was no frost on the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite
> frost when I go to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that will
do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard. Only in
the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights and extension
cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I grow)
to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry I couldn't
resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or
some protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow mine,
besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer anyway.
I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh seed or transplants
in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
I
know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
Brocoli? Leeks? I
have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up against the south facing
wall of my house. The lows where I live are often 10 to 12 degrees
lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on the radio. The
lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If the radio says
45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover the plants if it
less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there was no frost on
the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite frost when I go
to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039--
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:19:06 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:19:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where tree
roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
wild.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> Thanks for the information.
>
> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> garlic plants.
>
> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
>
> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >
> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >
> >> arid_gardener
> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> how much?
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Arid_gardener mailing list
> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> Archives -
> >
> >
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:21:12 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:21:12 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Wintertime Container Tomatos
If the area is well protected, if there is a full day's worth of sun
(and block walls around the plants to retain heat during the cold
nights) I suspect it might work, although I personally have not had
success. March might be too soon to expect ripened fruit. Recognize that
here in the low desert, tomatos are grown in the warmer not cooler
vegetable season.
I just answered a similar question where I recommended a mini-hothouse
contraption called a wall'o'water. This is a 2/5 foot sleeve of plastic
that is placed around a plant and whose walls are made of cylinders that
you fill with water to create the hot house effect. These
are fairly big and may be too large for your containers.
I'm hoping one of our other container gardening experts has some better
advice for you.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
eandrcook@hotmail.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
> I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:22:59 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:22:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:23:43 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:23:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Is Desert Landscaping Susceptible to Scorpion,Snake Infestation
I converted an old bermuda lawn to xeriscaping, with gravel and low
water use plants and have had no problems. In all my classes or reading
on the topic, I have not heard this raised as an
issue once. Indeed, in converting, I noted that other critters like
snails, cockroaches, etc. went elsewhere (the neighbors perhaps?) whose
yards were still lushly irrigated.
One note for you to consider: I live in an old, developed area of
central Phoenix. If you live in a new development on the outskirts,
where wildlife like snakes and scorpions are being
displaced by home and other building, you will likely see these. But it
will not, in my opinion, be because of the choice of landscaping.
Eventually, as a new neighborhood matures, the wildlife
abates.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
foxgray@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What are the disadvantages to having a desert landscape? We wanted to put rocks in our front yard, but someone told us that it brings scorpions, snakes and things like that. Is that true?
>
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> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:31:28 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:31:28 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Drip Irriation Specifics
Since this is largely dependent on the type of plant material, may I suggest you peruse our Master Gardener Manual, Irrigation Section at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html
Overall, the Master Gardener Manual may also have other information that would be beneficial to your horticultural efforts. If the section in question does not address your specific needs, don't
hesitate to send us a detailed question again!
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
rknott@inficad.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a drip system (2 gal/hr) one setting for plants and one for a flower bed. Is there a watering guideline for how long, and how many days/week that I should water during the different seasons.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ray Knott (Sun Lakes)
>
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> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:37:52 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:37:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Irrigating Mexican Fan Palms
According to our Publication Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ 1021) available online at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
established palm trees do well with slow irrigation to 2 feet deep every 2 to 3 weeks in
the growing season (same amount every 4 to 6 weeks in winter).
Hope this helps.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Tpjscarp@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> how much water does a mexican fan palm need in gallons per week or month 3 years old?
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Dec 13 00:51:59 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:51:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Flower Removal from Gingko
The UofA's publication #Q375 Chemical Removal of Flowers on Olive and
Mulberry suggest a spray containing napthaleneacetic acid (NAA) or
strong streams of water during pollination season. Unfortunately, I do
not find a specific reference to ginkos; perhaps your favorite nursery
can advise you on this or another chemical. The Sunset Western Garden
Guide simply advises not to plant female trees, which advice is too late
for you now...
If you want a copy of the UofA publication, send $1 to
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
tooldye@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a beautiful female gingko tree.
> Every year it produces more and more stinky
> fruits. Is there any way to reduce the amount
> of fruit this plant grows and proceeds to drop
> on my high traffic sidewalk? I've heard rumors
> of a sterilizer for fruit trees, would this
> work for the gingko?
> Would love some help!
> Kim in KC
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Dec 12 16:05:14 1999
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:05:14 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] tomatoes in pots
Winter - 1997-8, I had nice tomatoes in pots. Cool weather slows plant
growth and frost can finish it, permanently. Pots tend to be warmer
than the soil and can be moved to shelter from winds or frost. I think
it is late to be trying but March is 3 months (90 days) away. How bad
would it be if you came close but failed? And you would know, next
year.
On Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST) eandrcook@hotmail.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
>I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots
>on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return
>home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next
>year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
>
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Dec 13 14:20:53 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:20:53 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Grapes
It is time for grape leaves to fall off the plant for their dormant
season. After this happens is a great time to prune and, or try to
propagate them. If you want to try cuttings, make sure the part
closest to the plant is in the soil with the other end pointed up. As
I cut these, I make the bottom straight and the tops slanted at a sharp
angle. Grapes make wonderful cooling shade! quickly. Do put the
cuttings where you want them to grow because they make lots of roots the
first year and are a nuisance to transplant if you didn't put them in 5
gallon pots. I have Thompson, Ruby and Flame, all seedless.
To help grapes go dormant near Phoenix, I stopped watering mine about
the first of November..... They do look pretty bad until the leaves
drop.
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST) teacher@bmol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and
>were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have
>Flame and Thompson varieties.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Dec 13 14:14:38 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:14:38 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Before planting my Aleppo and Bottlebrush, I talked to my neighbor and
she thought they would be nice in the place I later planted them (18 feet
south of her house and 9 feet north of mine and about 20 feet between
them)................... they were five gallon size. A year later she
came complaining that the two trees that had been discussed before
planting were going to shade her solar heater, 30 feet north and quite a
bit east of the trees, on the back of her house. I immediately stoped
watering both the Aleppo pine and Bottlebrush. I expected them to die.
It is now 4 years later. In the middle of the summer I collect
roof valley water and put most of it on the Aleppo. The tree has grown
very little and looks fragile but lives on. The bottle brush is about
6 feet tall and blooms.
In the low desert, more than anywhere else in our country, size is a
reflection of water. I would never chose this Aleppo for a Christmas
tree but it is amazing how well this little tree has done with so little
water. Neither tree has an irrigation nozzle within 25 feet of them.
There are no gutters on my house so they get a little extra rain from
the part of my hippish roof aimed in their direction, a triangular area,
perhaps 8 feet deep by 25 feet long.
Now my home is near Phoenix and Tucson is cooler and wetter than
Phoenix. It is very bad to water only one little area of a tree root
ball (roots will grow in that area and perhaps not at all on the other
side of the tree, making it very susceptible to blowing over if the wind
comes from that area where there are no roots.)
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700 "Linda A. Guy"
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested
>evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation
>on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for
>low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our
>Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an
>IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house
>could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of
>services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis.
>Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
>
>It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them.
>They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season.
>But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
>
>Linda Guy
>Master Gardener
>
>earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
>
>> arid_gardener
>> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's
>landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation
>system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low
>maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any
>compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which
>he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually
>interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other
>deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus
>grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Arid_gardener mailing list
>> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>> Archives -
>
>
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>Archives -
From azpiper@earthlink.net Mon Dec 13 23:08:27 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 16:08:27 -0700
From: azpiper@earthlink.net azpiper@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] unscribe
Hi.
Please delete my name from your list.
Thanks.
From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon Dec 13 23:35:14 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:35:14 EST
From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com
Subject: [AG] White Flies in Greenhouse
My lovely new greenhouse is finally safe from the squirrels but I have a
horrid infestation of white flies that love the balmy weather. Please advise
how to get rid of them and also do you suppose they have laid next years eggs
all over the place too? It is never going to get cold in there. I don't
want to use bud spray - I have lovely tomatoes ripening along with
cauliflower. Thx.
From efountain@access1.net Mon Dec 13 17:53:20 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST)
From: efountain@access1.net efountain@access1.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
Can you confirm?
Thanks,
Ellen Fountain
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Dec 14 03:16:32 1999
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:16:32 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Using softened water for irrigation
Ellen, You are correct. You must have a bypass around the water softener for
irrigation. The salt in the softened water will make short life of most
landscape plants.
Good luck. Rod
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Dec 14 14:00:48 1999
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:00:48 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
The 'brittleness' of your brittlebush is a function of water: I believe you
indicated that these were not being irrigated in any way other than rain fall.
Mine are on a system, hence the blooming and leaf color that is green with a
greyish cast, vs yours which are probably approaching white/grey with little
green. Simply the plants' respective reactions to environment.
The real reason for this response, however, is to share with you the Desert
Botanical Garden Hotline [480-941-1255], available M-F on a limited basis, I
believe from 10 to 11:30 am. They will surely be able to answer your questions
about amending soil for cactus since this is a particular area of expertise for
them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> I am surprised that your brittlebush is blooming now. Mine is showing no
> signs at all of new growth or flowering. It is just, well, brittle. My
> arms are scratched like I've tried to give an alley cat a bath. I think
> I'll try your method. Thanks for the help.
>
> At 05:19 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
> >hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
> >late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
> >little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
> >sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
> >the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
> >
> >If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
> >on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
> >summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
> >mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
> >(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
> >without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
> >
> >As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
> >hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where
> tree
> >roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
> >runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
> >Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
> >(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
> >rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
> >hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
> >bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
> >because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
> >neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
> >You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
> >
> >I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
> >amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
> >the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
> >wild.
> >
> >Good luck!
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >
> >
> >Michael Goldstein wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks for the information.
> >>
> >> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> >> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> >> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> >> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> >> garlic plants.
> >>
> >> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> >> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> >> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> >> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> >> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> >> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> >> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
> >>
> >> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >> >
> >> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >> >
> >> >Good luck,
> >> >Linda Guy
> >> >Master Gardener
> >> >
> >> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> arid_gardener
> >> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> >> how much?
> >> >>
> >> >> _______________________________________________
> >> >> Arid_gardener mailing list
> >> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> >> Archives -
> >> >
> >> >
> >
> >
> Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend.
> Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. - Groucho Marx
From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue Dec 14 14:05:41 1999
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:05:41 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Softened water
The water goes into my home in the front next to an exterior water
outlet. This water outlet, in the front is before the water entry to
the home. The entry on the exterior back wall is after entry to my
home. I know this because when I turn off the valve on the pipe below
the front faucet, everything except that front faucet has no water.
The irrigation system is also connected before entry into the home.
Your plumber wants to avoid the expense and work of 2 pipe lines under
your home........ and perhaps you would too.
You can install a cheaper plastic pipeline around the perimeter of your
home and enjoy having unsoftened water for your plants. It is my
opinion that our soil has enough salts already without adding various
other chemicals.
And the cost of softening water is dear in addition to thinking about the
environmental danger.
On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST) efountain@access1.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson
>Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put
>in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I
>asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he
>said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you
>can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use
>softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
>Can you confirm?
>Thanks,
>Ellen Fountain
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From gaye.luna@nau.edu Tue Dec 14 21:10:29 1999
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST)
From: gaye.luna@nau.edu gaye.luna@nau.edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I live in Surprise and am new to desert vegetation. I am wondering how long (times/week) and how much (minutes) I should water the following yard scrubbery during the winter months:
(1) Evergreen Elms (5 years old)
(2) Lantana (5 years old)
(3) Bankor Red Bouganvilla (planted 1 1/2 months ago)
(4) Rose bushes (5 years old)
They are all on the same drip system, unfortunately, so would need some advice on times and length to accommodate all these plants.
Thank you,
From ppiercy@primenet.com Tue Dec 14 21:14:12 1999
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST)
From: ppiercy@primenet.com ppiercy@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
From jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net Wed Dec 15 15:44:01 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:44:01 -0700 (MST)
From: jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a light frost, what is the best method to rcover a vegetable garden? E.G., water immediately to melt light frost, wait for the sun to warm, space heater?
Thx, Jim
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Dec 15 17:10:50 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:10:50 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Free Lemon Booklets
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Grown has a booklet available this month titled "150 Ways to Use
Lemons"
from Sunkist. Callers will also receive this month's list of fruits and
vegetables being harvested in Arizona. Call: 888-PICKED-4-U (888-742-5334).
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Arizona Grown has a booklet available this
month titled "150 Ways to Use Lemons" from Sunkist.
Callers will also receive this month's list of fruits and vegetables
being harvested in Arizona. Call: 888-PICKED-4-U
(888-742-5334).
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_7014357==_.ALT--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 15 21:48:42 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:48:42 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Watering Trees and Shrubs
For the months of Dec.,Jan., and Feb. deep water the trees once per month;
deep water the shrubs once every two to three week.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck. Rod
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Dec 15 23:58:47 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 16:58:47 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Recycle your Christmas tree
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful again will provide opportunities for
residents to recycle Christmas trees. Fourteen city parks will accept single
trees from residents from 8 am to 6 pm any days between Monday, Dec. 27 and
Sunday, Jan. 9.
Each area will have collection bins, trucks or chippers to convert trees into
mulch for use on city projects. Last year about 100,000 trees were recycled.
The sites are:
North Central South
Deer Valley Park Marivue Park
El Reposo Park
19th Ave/Utopia Road Osborn Rd/55th Ave
Alta Vista Rd/7th St
Sereno Park Washington Park
Mountain Vista Park
Sweetwater Ave/56th St Maryland/23rd Ave
48th St/Knox Rd
Paradise Valley Park Madison Park
Desert Foothills Park
40th St, South of Union Hills Rd Glenrosa Ave/16th St
Desert Foothills Pkwy/Chandler Blvd
Cactus Park Los Olivos Park
El Prado Park
Cactus Rd/39th Ave Devonshire Ave/28th St
6428 S. 19th Ave
Mountain View Park Desert West Park
Peoria/7th Ave Encanto Blvd/67th Ave
Trees also may be left at the city's two landfills, 27th ave and Lower
Buckeye Rd, Monday through Saturday, or any day at 31st Ave and Happy valley
Rd. Landfill hours are 5:30 am to 5:00 pm weekdays and 8 am to 4 pm on
Saturdays. The service is free to Phoenix residents who drop off one tree.
A to Z Equipment Rentals & Sales also will accept trees at no charge
from 9 am to 4 pm Dec. 27 through Jan 7 and 9 am to 2 pm. Stores are located
at 4050 E. Indian School Rd and 15634 N. 32nd St.
Donate a living tree to a park or school, call the Parks,
Recreation and
Library Department at 602-253-2687.
Collection event partners with the city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful
include A to Z Equipment Rentals & Sales, Arizona Public Service Co, Bashas',
Coca Cola Bottling Co and Kalil Bottling Co. For more information, call
602-262-7251.
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful again will provide opportunities
for residents to recycle Christmas trees. Fourteen city parks will
accept single trees from residents from 8 am to 6 pm any days between
Monday, Dec. 27 and Sunday, Jan. 9.
Each area will have collection bins, trucks or chippers to convert trees
into mulch for use on city projects. Last year about 100,000 trees
were recycled.
The sites are:
North Central South
Deer Valley
Park Marivue
Park El
Reposo Park
19th Ave/Utopia
Road Osborn
Rd/55th
Ave Alta
Vista Rd/7th St
Sereno
Park Washington
Park Mountain
Vista Park
Sweetwater Ave/56th
St Maryland/23rd
Ave 48th
St/Knox Rd
Paradise Valley
Park Madison
Park Desert
Foothills Park
40th St, South of Union Hills
Rd Glenrosa
Ave/16th
St Desert
Foothills Pkwy/Chandler Blvd
Cactus
Park Los
Olivos
Park El
Prado Park
Cactus Rd/39th
Ave Devonshire
Ave/28th
St 6428
S. 19th Ave
Mountain View
Park Desert
West Park
Peoria/7th
Ave Encanto
Blvd/67th Ave
Trees also
may be left at the city's two landfills, 27th ave and Lower Buckeye Rd,
Monday through Saturday, or any day at 31st Ave and Happy valley
Rd. Landfill hours are 5:30 am to 5:00 pm weekdays and 8 am to 4 pm
on Saturdays. The service is free to Phoenix residents who drop off
one tree.
A to Z
Equipment Rentals & Sales also will accept trees at no charge from 9
am to 4 pm Dec. 27 through Jan 7 and 9 am to 2 pm. Stores are
located at 4050 E. Indian School Rd and 15634 N. 32nd St.
Donate a
living tree to a park or school, call the Parks, Recreation and Library
Department at 602-253-2687.
Collection
event partners with the city and Phoenix Clean and Beautiful include A to
Z Equipment Rentals & Sales, Arizona Public Service Co, Bashas', Coca
Cola Bottling Co and Kalil Bottling Co. For more information, call
602-262-7251.
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_31494978==_.ALT--
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed Dec 15 15:04:04 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:04:04 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: desert varieties
Most vegetables that you grew anywhere else can be grown here.
Butternut squash does better than Acorn squash. Rhubarb, horseradish
and raspberries are very difficult ~ I've seen no one succeed with them.
The Maricopa County Cooperative Extension at 4341 E. Broadway Road has
many brochures that can help you. There is a Northwest Valley Satellite
Office at 13816 Camino del Sol, Sun City West. You need to go, sit
down, and discuss your need for specific information.
George Brookbank, from Tuscon, has written 2 helpful books that you can
pick up from the library or book store. Desert Gardening is about
vegetables. Desert Landscaping is about other plants at home. Both
books have a handy monthly suggestion list in the back for what to do
during each month. Gardening here is delightful but very different
from any where else you've ever been. Birds and rabbits are hungary
and thirsty. Staking plants exposes them to the hot dry wind. Water,
soil and temperatures are different. You may want to take the Master
Gardener course ~ it certainly was one of the best investments I made
when I got here.
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST) ppiercy@primenet.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the
>Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of
>pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed Dec 15 14:53:48 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 07:53:48 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: watering
All of your plants will do well with water once a week in the winter and
that may be the easiest way to set your timer...... mine will not set for
less often than that. However, you can turn it off entirely or adjust
individual nozzles.
The dormant Bouganvilla does not need any water applied in the winter if
it is an established plant or at most, once a month. The Elm needs
the most water in the summer. And the roses will need water twice a
week in the summer. This can be done with a hose........
When water is applied, make sure that it is enough water to get the
plant roots wet and then allow the soil to dry out before water is
applied again. Keeping soil wet all the time causes fungus infections
to thrive. Giving too little water will cause your plants to dry out,
grow slow, and is easy to see.
Think about the rain pattern in the area of the country where you came
from..... Rain happened once a week to once in 2 weeks and that works
well here for applying water. Too many people new to the desert keep
their soil wet all the time. This wastes water, causes the plants to
grow in unnatural ways and infects their soil with fungus that wouldn't
get so strong if the soil could only dry out occasionally.
In the summer heat, plants can only take up water according to their
root strength.......... Plants watered too often have poor root structure
and often fail in spite (and perhaps because) of vast amounts of water
poured on at that time.
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST) gaye.luna@nau.edu writes:
>arid_gardener
>I live in Surprise and am new to desert vegetation. I am wondering
>how long (times/week) and how much (minutes) I should water the
>following yard scrubbery during the winter months:
>(1) Evergreen Elms (5 years old)
>(2) Lantana (5 years old)
>(3) Bankor Red Bouganvilla (planted 1 1/2 months ago)
>(4) Rose bushes (5 years old)
>
>They are all on the same drip system, unfortunately, so would need
>some advice on times and length to accommodate all these plants.
>
>Thank you,
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 16 15:32:19 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:32:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Vegetables and Flowers for Phoenix
There are several items that can help you. First is the Timely Tips section of our Home Horticulture page which is reached at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
This will show you what can be planted by seed, bulb or transplant by month.
Another possibility is our Master Gardener Press book, Desert Gardening for Beginners
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm
which has many planting calendar charts in the appendix section.
Maricopa County Horticultural publications are listed on the website, too. Some may have to be ordered, but others are online. One is AZ 1005 a Vegetable Planting Calendar:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf
Another is for flowers AZ1100
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf
This should be ample material for you to commence your gardening adventures. Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ppiercy@primenet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From dougjo@aol.com Thu Dec 16 04:42:34 1999
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:42:34 -0700 (MST)
From: dougjo@aol.com dougjo@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
Is this sound advice?
Thanks,
Doug
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 16 15:44:02 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 08:44:02 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] White Flies in Greenhouse
Vivid yellow paper or cardboard smeared with petroleum jelly or similar sticky
substance on both sides placed around the greenhouse will prove irresistable to
your whiteflies which will stick thereon! You will have to replace the papers
when they are filled with the insects, probably more frequently at the beginning.
If you don't want to make them (although it's truly very easy), many nurseries
and gardening catalogs sell them.
If my memory serves me, someone tested the efficacy of various dish soaps and
Dawn came up with superior marks in this spray formula:
Use one teaspoon to 2 tablespoons of liquid detergent soap per gallon of water
(not extra concentrated types, however, nor soaps which contain citrus acids
which may burn plants). Spray to coat insects, making sure leaf underside
surfaces are also treated. Start with smaller amount of soap and work up to 2 T.
One thing to watch for is is leaf burn, depending on the temperature of your
greenhouse. I would personally start with the 'white'fly paper strategy first.
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My lovely new greenhouse is finally safe from the squirrels but I have a
> horrid infestation of white flies that love the balmy weather. Please advise
> how to get rid of them and also do you suppose they have laid next years eggs
> all over the place too? It is never going to get cold in there. I don't
> want to use bud spray - I have lovely tomatoes ripening along with
> cauliflower. Thx.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 16 16:00:07 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:00:07 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Restoring Palm Trees
Hi Doug,
I recommend Epsom salts, which are magnesium sulfate, for my 'human' clients to soak in. However, I'm sceptical of applying a salt solution in our environment for which soil salts are already a problem. I don't KNOW that this won't work. But what happens if your
palms' nutritional deficiency is not magnesium?
Palms most often suffer from lack of nitrogen in our area; when insufficient, older fronds are pale green or yellow. Potassium deficiency (older leaves are yellow, including midrib) or magnesium deficiency (yellow older leaves but central vein is still green)
are also possible problems.
Preventative fertilization keeps the palms lush and green; once the leaves are yellowed they cannot be restored. There are special palm fertilizers which address this tree's specific needs, including other micronutrients like iron, sulfur, zinc, copper, etc. I'd
be more inclined to check into these first. However, I don't believe I would do this weekly in this slow growth season. Under normal circumstances, palms are fertilized in midspring and early summer.
Also, check out our Arizona Landscape Palms publication AZ1021 at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dougjo@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 16 16:08:47 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 09:08:47 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Restoring Palm Trees
Hi Doug,
Just to clarify: In the following paragraph of my original response, I
did not mean to imply that the tree itself could not be restored; I was
referring specifically to those leaves that have become discolored:
"Preventative fertilization keeps the palms lush and green; once the
leaves are yellowed they cannot be restored. There are special palm
fertilizers which address this tree's specific needs...."
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dougjo@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 17 14:13:38 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:13:38 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Evergreens for Tucson Area
Hi again, Elizabeth,
It will be important for you to ensure that the Arizona Cypress (cupressus arizonica) is INDEED a dwarf variety. The standard tree grows to 40', spreading to 20' which makes it excellent for windbreaks. They grow fast and don't typically need water after being established. [Aforementioned from Sunset Western Garden Book, p. 252.] I would also ask the nursery how big the dwarf gets because the smallest dimensions I saw for this tree is 20 to 25'. You may be putting your dad into a regular pruning/maintenance situation that he cannot handle.
The Sunset guide does not recommend Monterey Cypress for either Phoenix (we are zone 13 in their book) or Tucson (considered as zone 12). They only recommend the Monterey for their zone 17, which is northern California coastal climate. The Italian cypress would be a better choice. Remember it can grow very tall (to 60'), although it is slender.
It sounds like you have a good nursery to consult. How about your local County Extension Office, too? They would know your plant material pallette better than we in Maricopa County.
Best of luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Elizabeth Rathbun wrote:
> Thanks for the information about the Aleppo Pine. My father would be unable to take care of a large tree like that one. Maybe they might come up with a dwarf version one of these days. That would be nice.
>
> A grower recommended two types of plants that I could try: dwarf Arizona Cypress (Which are hard to find) and other varieties of Monterrey Cypress which don't grow as large. Some look like low junipers and others resemble Italian Cypress. I've never noticed those in Tucson, however, I'm going to check what they have at my favorite Tucson nursery - the Mesquite Valley Grower. They usually know what can grow there, and what can't. Some of these gourmet conifers might just burn like toast in the hot sun!
>
> Thanks for your advice.
>
>
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > > Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 17 14:26:11 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:26:11 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Fountain Grass
I have not yet seen a response to your query and, although I can't
specifically answer your question, I would like to guide you to an
answer the best I can. Several months ago, the gardening section
(Saturday Home Section) of the Arizona Republic ran a wonderful article
on ornamental grasses. You could try the archival function on their
website (www.azcentral.com) to try to locate it, or otherwise contact
the garden editor by phone (602/444-8000 is the general PN).
Unless you have a variety that does not set seed, many types of
ornamental grass seed themselves fairly freely, which may eventually
crowd out other plant material. During the growing season, you might
also consider keeping the plumes pruned before the seeds mature, if this
becomes a problem for you.
Good luck,
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do you prune purple fountain grass?
> 1. Mass straight across cut-back
> 2. Thin out old
> 3. Cut out pie section
>
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 17 14:29:59 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 07:29:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I'm having a tough time researching your question. Do you have the botanical name for your plant just to make sure we are looking up the correct species? I'm not at all familiar with your tree, but there may still be another Master Gardener online who is.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Jenfloy@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I planted a saphire dragon tree back in October and it's only grown to about 4 feet tall. The info sheet that came with it says that if the tree doesn't make 5 feet by the first frost then you are to cut it back and wait till the spring. I will I know that I need to cut it back? Will it just go brown and dry up? I do I know that it didn't get tall enough?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Fri Dec 17 21:47:16 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:47:16 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Purple Fountain Grass
Dear Arid Gardener
The Purple Fountain Grass does not set any seed - it is a sterile plant -
so that you do not have to worry about new seedlings cropping up around your
yard and taking things over. Usually once a year, in the early spring
the plant is shaved off at about a 4-6 inch height in order to remove the
older, dead flowers and leaves and to stimulate new growth.
Once your plant is older and larger, you can split it to produce more plants
if you need more of these in your landscape. Just dig off a chunk of the
root ball, or crown of the plant and transplant to the new spot.
The green variety of fountain grass does reseed very readily and can become
a serious nuisance in your yard, neighbors yards, etc. with aggressive new
seedlings cropping up all over. In fact, the State is considering
legislation to prohibit sales of the green variety in Arizona since it has
started to invade our Mountain parks the last couple of years. Stay clear
of this green variety, and stick with the purple..
mike hills
Volunteer Master Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Linda A. Guy
To: jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: [AG] Pruning Fountain Grass
>arid_gardener
>I have not yet seen a response to your query and, although I can't
>specifically answer your question, I would like to guide you to an
>answer the best I can. Several months ago, the gardening section
>(Saturday Home Section) of the Arizona Republic ran a wonderful article
>on ornamental grasses. You could try the archival function on their
>website (www.azcentral.com) to try to locate it, or otherwise contact
>the garden editor by phone (602/444-8000 is the general PN).
>
>Unless you have a variety that does not set seed, many types of
>ornamental grass seed themselves fairly freely, which may eventually
>crowd out other plant material. During the growing season, you might
>also consider keeping the plumes pruned before the seeds mature, if this
>becomes a problem for you.
>
>Good luck,
>Linda Guy,
>Master Gardener
>
>jalmcddl@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>
>> arid_gardener
>> How do you prune purple fountain grass?
>> 1. Mass straight across cut-back
>> 2. Thin out old
>> 3. Cut out pie section
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Arid_gardener mailing list
>> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>> Archives -
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From ehpierce@home.com Thu Dec 16 22:15:28 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:15:28 -0700 (MST)
From: ehpierce@home.com ehpierce@home.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the best type of sod to lay for the Phoenix area summers.
From willa@gardenpod.com Thu Dec 16 22:32:14 1999
Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 15:32:14 -0700 (MST)
From: willa@gardenpod.com willa@gardenpod.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'm from Oregon and wanted to know about the differences in your growing seasons for indoor gardening...using greenhouses. What months do gardeners have to either move their gardening inside or not garden at all?
From jdebolske@aol.com Fri Dec 17 21:45:29 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 14:45:29 -0700 (MST)
From: jdebolske@aol.com jdebolske@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do keep clover from growing in the winter in a bermuda grass lawn?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri Dec 17 16:06:01 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 09:06:01 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Palms
I would not put added bone meal on a palm; somewhere I read that the
middle number on the fertilizer bag for palms should be low and that is
exactly what is in bone meal or super phosphate {which, if used at all,
should always be placed near the roots since it doesn't move with water}.
I would use a good palm fertilizer, which can be gotten at any
nursery and apply it no more than 3 times a year during warm weather.
Perhaps a little chelated iron for yellow leaves on some plants that
have been watered too much too often. It is not a good idea to throw a
lot of fertilizer on sick plants. Every 2 weeks during dormant growth
periods (winter = dormant palm growth) is certainly a lot of fertilizer!
On Wed, 15 Dec 1999 21:42:34 -0700 (MST) dougjo@aol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
> I was told that my palm trees were sick and advised to apply two
>pounds of epsom salts (dissolved in 5 gal of water) and deep soak
>WEEKLY for at least the next year PLUS alternate bone meal and blood
>meal every 5 weeks. (The fronds were pale green/yellow)
> Is this sound advice?
> Thanks,
> Doug
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From gjblackham@aol.com Sat Dec 18 14:16:19 1999
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 07:16:19 -0700 (MST)
From: gjblackham@aol.com gjblackham@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am trying to get information on container gardening; flowers and greenery, not vegtables. I would like what will grow well during the summer and winter in full sun and shade. I am having a difficult time getting this information. Thank you Sharon Blackham
From craryville@flinet.com Sat Dec 18 04:06:20 1999
Date: Fri, 17 Dec 1999 21:06:20 -0700
From: Leonard Faust craryville@flinet.com
Subject: [AG] Needed information
I understand that Dorsett can be used to increase the Anna crop, but can
Anna be used to pollinate Dorsetts? Leonard Faust South
Florida
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 19 03:39:46 1999
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 20:39:46 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Dear colleagues,
Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical name
[mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was having
trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the challenge
and assist him?
Regards,
Linda Guy, MG
JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
> The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an ornamental
> variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this because a
> couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended up
> fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner but
> it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week prior
> (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not knowing
> how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> Thanks for your efforts so far.
> eric
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun Dec 19 22:19:15 1999
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 15:19:15 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Free Goldfish
Two years ago I decided to populate my backyard pond with a dozen
refugees from the feeder fish tank at the local tropical fish store
[hey, at 10 for $1 it was a screaming deal]. Overwhelmed by their second
lease on life and obviously desiring to make the most of their remaining
days, my little ones have gone forth and multiplied. I am culling the
school [who am I kidding? I take whatever I can catch.] and have now at
least a dozen gold fish, hopefully more, to pass on [free of course] to
a good home.
These are your 'garden variety' goldfish, mostly orange, some white,
some bicolored; some even pregnant! Beautiful fancy tails though. They
are not accustomed to being fed, and forage for themselves. Smallest is
3.5 inches, most in the 4-5 inch range. I believe they could still come
indoors as denizens of a larger bowl or tank, but someone else's pond is
also a possibility. Don't confuse these with koi, which are ravenous
vegetarians and eat everything in sight. I'm only losing some plant
material now because of MY poor herd management practices!
Any takers? Don't you think they'd make a GREAT stocking stuffer? I'm
partial to my little fellas, and, anyway, it's too early to be putting
one under each seed of corn in the garden......
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
Arcadia Neighborhood of Phoenix
602/852-0738
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Dec 20 01:08:33 1999
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 18:08:33 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in Cottonwood.
Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there URL:
http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
"Linda A. Guy" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Dear colleagues,
>
> Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical name
> [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was having
> trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the challenge
> and assist him?
>
> Regards,
> Linda Guy, MG
>
> JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
>
> > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an ornamental
> > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this because a
> > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended up
> > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner but
> > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week prior
> > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not knowing
> > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > eric
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mbell29@prodigy.net Mon Dec 20 03:11:36 1999
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:11:36 -0700 (MST)
From: mbell29@prodigy.net mbell29@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura (thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along roadssides)?
From mbell29@prodigy.net Mon Dec 20 03:02:56 1999
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:02:56 -0700 (MST)
From: mbell29@prodigy.net mbell29@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am interested in growing and roasting chilis at home in Tempe. I love roasted New Mexico chilis. Is there a variety of chili that can be used for this purpose that will do well in our climate? I understand that jalapenos are hotter than New Mexicos and might be too hot.
From ABELS@aol.com Mon Dec 20 04:36:30 1999
Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 23:36:30 EST
From: ABELS@aol.com ABELS@aol.com
Subject: [AG] nose dive....
Please set me at "no mail" since my hard drive is taking a nose dive....when
I get the problem settled, I'll be back.
thanks,
Robyn Abels
From cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Mon Dec 20 15:58:15 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 08:58:15 -0700
From: Jones, Chris cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
I would be quite concerned about planting Paulownia kawakami, with such a
fancy name as Sapphire Dragon tree. Note below that JENFLOY says P.
tomentosa grows wild in the eastern states (is it native?). There is a good
chance that it is an invasive tree if the conditions are right, and all we
need in Ariz. is another salt cedar, tamarix, tree-of-heaven, Siberian elm
or Russian olive!
Please research the growing habits of this species, suckering, seeding, etc.
before propagating it around the state! As Master Gardeners, we can read the
website below and see incredible claims - very fast growing trees are
usually very weak trees. Deep straight taproots? where are we taught that
tree roots grow?
Paulownia is probably an appropriate tree for poor Chinese peasants who must
practice agroforesty just to simply live from day to day. As a U.S.
homeowner, please be cautious and environmentally conscious.
I'll be happy to retract my warnings if someone can show credibly that this
genus and its commercial species are not invasive at any of the
environmental settings of Arizona.
"If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is."
Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
The University of Arizona
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ 85501
Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:09 PM
To: JENFLOY@aol.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: Re: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
arid_gardener
I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in
Cottonwood.
Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there
URL:
http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
"Linda A. Guy" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Dear colleagues,
>
> Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical
name
> [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was
having
> trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the
challenge
> and assist him?
>
> Regards,
> Linda Guy, MG
>
> JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
>
> > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an
ornamental
> > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this
because a
> > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended
up
> > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner
but
> > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week
prior
> > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not
knowing
> > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > eric
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives -
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Dec 20 16:50:23 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 11:50:23 EST
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Hi,
I looked up Paulownia in The American Horticultural Society Encyclopedia of
Garden Plants. It gives information about several of the varieties
mentioned. It also has a picture of one of the varieties in full bloom. I
didn't find anything mentioned that would give me the impression that it
might become a problem. This is only one reference but one that I have
confidence.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Dec 20 22:09:55 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 15:09:55 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
Chris:
I agree with you 100%. I read the website and personally, I wouldn't plant
one. It sounds like it could turn into another Kudzu. But, I didn't feel it
was my place to be too preachy on a tree that I have limited information on.
Especially as a voluntter. As an extension agent, perhaps you would like to
respond to them. There isn't a lot of info available on kawakami. If they
already have one, I just figured it was the only place they were going to get
any additional information on it.
Happy Holidays!
Sue Bass
"Jones, Chris" wrote:
> I would be quite concerned about planting Paulownia kawakami, with such a
> fancy name as Sapphire Dragon tree. Note below that JENFLOY says P.
> tomentosa grows wild in the eastern states (is it native?). There is a good
> chance that it is an invasive tree if the conditions are right, and all we
> need in Ariz. is another salt cedar, tamarix, tree-of-heaven, Siberian elm
> or Russian olive!
>
> Please research the growing habits of this species, suckering, seeding, etc.
> before propagating it around the state! As Master Gardeners, we can read the
> website below and see incredible claims - very fast growing trees are
> usually very weak trees. Deep straight taproots? where are we taught that
> tree roots grow?
>
> Paulownia is probably an appropriate tree for poor Chinese peasants who must
> practice agroforesty just to simply live from day to day. As a U.S.
> homeowner, please be cautious and environmentally conscious.
>
> I'll be happy to retract my warnings if someone can show credibly that this
> genus and its commercial species are not invasive at any of the
> environmental settings of Arizona.
>
> "If it sounds too good to be true, it usually is."
>
> Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
> Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
>
> The University of Arizona
> Gila County Cooperative Extension
> 1177 Monroe Street
> Globe, AZ 85501
>
> Ph: (520) 425-7179
> FAX: (520) 425-0265
> E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:09 PM
> To: JENFLOY@aol.com
> Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> Subject: Re: [AG] Re: [AG]Sapphire Dragon Tree
>
> arid_gardener
> I found a website for someone who sells Sapphire Dragon Trees up in
> Cottonwood.
> Perhaps they can provide you with information on this tree. Here is there
> URL:
> http://www.sapphire-dragon.com
> Good Luck!
> Sue Bass
> Master Gardener
>
> "Linda A. Guy" wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > Dear colleagues,
> >
> > Eric kindly responded to my first inquiry regarding the plant's botanical
> name
> > [mine was considerably different than the name he has provided] as I was
> having
> > trouble finding any reference material. Can any other MG's rise to the
> challenge
> > and assist him?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Linda Guy, MG
> >
> > JENFLOY@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > > The scientific name for the Sapphire Dragon Tree is Scrophulariaceae
> > > Paulownia kawakami. The planting instructions say that it is an
> ornamental
> > > variety that has no similarity to the growth habits of the Paulownia
> > > Tomentosa which grows wild in the eastern United States. I live out in
> > > Gilbert and I think we've already had our first frost. I say this
> because a
> > > couple of my plants were bit one night last week and my lantana ended
> up
> > > fried the next morning. I thought for sure my Dragon Tree was a gonner
> but
> > > it only has a few crispy lower leaves and these turning brittle a week
> prior
> > > (I think it needed water). I know that I need to take a wait and see
> > > attitude but I'm really excited about this tree and it bugs me not
> knowing
> > > how to determine if I'll need to cut it back or not.
> > > Thanks for your efforts so far.
> > > eric
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From Jessica.schepler@usa.net Mon Dec 20 23:09:38 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:09:38 -0700 (MST)
From: Jessica.schepler@usa.net Jessica.schepler@usa.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I planted my first garden this past year and couldn't bear to pull up my tomatoes because they still had so many fruit. I have about 30 plus green tomatoes that are just now beginning to ripen. Contrary to what everyone has told me, I just threw some clear plastic over them and they appear to be doing quite well. In fact, the plants are still flowering producing new fruit, and one of thje green tomatoes just ripened fully this week! Do I have to pull these plants up and put in new plants in order to get a new crop of tomatoes for the upcoming season, or will my old plants continue to produce indefinately? I have heard some people say they keep the same plants and just cut back the vines, but I have heard others say the plants (regardless of variety) do not continue to produce indefinately and must be pulled up. I live in Mesa and have 1 large earlygirl variety and two patio tomatoe plants. Thanks for the info! Jessica
From cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Mon Dec 20 23:05:19 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:05:19 -0700
From: Jones, Chris cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: [AG] FW: sapphire dragon
Thank you for the article below. John Begeman is credible and I'm glad you
saved the article. He shares again from his experience that P. tomentosa
naturalized throughout the Southeast. I think our biggest threat from P.
kawakami would be inadvertently letting seeds get established in any of
Arizona's riparian areas where it may be able to propagate on its own.
John's article shows it probably won't make it in desert, and would be quite
a water-guzzler in the garden.
My quick internet search right now didn't turn up much on this species'
culture either, but the Bushland Weeds Education Group of Sidney, Australia
http://www.zip.com.au/~aabr/weed_lists/weed1.html didn't recommend it for
landscape settings either.
Remember our hallowed American business philosophy, Caveat emptor!
Christopher Jones, Extension Agent
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs
The University of Arizona
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ 85501
Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu
-----Original Message-----
From: SWymer@aol.com [mailto:SWymer@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 9:53 AM
To: cjones@mail.co.gila.az.us
Subject: sapphire dragon
Mr Jones - you are right about sapphire dragon trees. I sent a copy of
tghe
below article to both sjbass@uswest.net and jenfloy
FYI - John Begeman, Extension Agent in Tucson, wrote the following about
two
years ago:
Think twice before planting sapphire
dragon trees here
Sunday, 18 January 1998
HOME 1H
By John Begeman, Special to The Arizona Daily Star
THE ARIZONA DAILY STAR
COLUMN
I have received numerous inquiries during the past few months about a
new variety of tree sold at retail garden centers here in Tucson.
It's also available by mail through several internet sites. Its
exotic-sounding
name is the sapphire dragon tree.
I knew nothing about this tree in the beginning.
Looking through my reference books on plants, landscaping, horticulture,
and botany, I could find no such plant listed. But though information
supplied by retailers, I came up with its real name: Paulownia kawakamii.
Paulownia is a group of deciduous flowering trees, the most well known of
which is the Empress tree, Paulownia tomentosa. From my days in Florida,
I remember it as an ornamental tree grown and naturalized in the
Southeast, particularly north Florida, Alabama, Georgia and the Carolinas.
As a landscape tree it was valued for its showy violet, trumpet-shaped
flower clusters and unusually large, heart-shaped leaves.
Paulownia kawakamii, the sapphire dragon tree, is similar to tomentosa in
flower color, leaf size (1 foot across), and fast growth. According to ads,
the sapphire dragon tree can reach 10 feet high the first year, 15 feet the
second, and 25 feet the third. As you can imagine, this fast growth rate
makes the tree ideal for timber production. Paulownia tree plantations are
throughout Asia, South America and even in the United States.
The sapphire dragon tree and other Paulownias are well suited for
bio-mass production, but as a landscape tree, it may be less than ideal.
To maintain a dense canopy of leaves for shade, the tree should be heavily
pruned every year or every other year. If allowed to grow naturally, the
tree will become rather leggy, with wide-spaced branches and thin foliage.
Moisture loss through large leaves is significant, requiring frequent
watering
during the growing season.
Although it is unknown how the sapphire dragon tree responds to our
desert conditions, an indication may come by looking at the environment
where the tree is native: China, Japan and Taiwan.
In Taiwan, annual rainfall is abundant, exceeding 40 inches annually. The
climate is maritime, and the air is moist throughout the year. Although
subtropical with warm summers, those temperatures seldom exceed 95
degrees. Winters are mild, with temperatures rarely lower than 40 degrees.
Contrast this with Tucson; well, you know the story - it's a dry heat, for
much of the year.
Another cause for concern with the dragon tree is its requirement of deep,
well drained, acid soils; this according to researchers at the Virginia
Tech
Department of Forestry. They also state that the tree does poorest on
heavy clay compacted soils, which we have an abundance of in Tucson. A
requirement for acid soils may, in itself, eliminate the tree from
consideration for planting here. Our soils are very alkaline. Try growing
an
acid-loving gardenia and you'll find it nearly impossible to keep it green
and growing, let alone producing flowers.
If this sounds like less than a glowing endorsement of the sapphire dragon
tree, you're right. The requirements this tree needs to successfully grow
are
all the ones we don't have in Tucson. I know lots of people who bring
plants from ``back home'' and try nursing them along for a year or so
before they finally die. But look at all the wasted time, money and effort.
Our unique and challenging desert environment calls for trees that are up
to
the challenge. These are the ``tried-and-true'' native and desert adapted
palo verdes, mesquites and acacias, among others. I doubt that the
sapphire dragon tree has what it takes to join this rather exclusive list.
TREE HELP
How to prune trees and shrubs will be demonstrated at the Pima County
Extension Center, 4210 N. Campbell Ave., at 9 a.m. Wednesday. If you
have a gardening question, call its Plant Clinic, weekdays 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
at 626-5161.
John Begeman is the horticulture agent for the University of
Arizona's Pima County Cooperative Extension.
From fil2145@AOL.com Mon Dec 20 21:18:09 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 14:18:09 -0700 (MST)
From: fil2145@AOL.com fil2145@AOL.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the best varity of pecan tree to plant in the Higley, Az. area? Where can you buy them as a bare root?
From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Dec 20 12:26:16 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:26:16 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Collecting seed
When you see a plant that is blooming, you can stop, watch for creatures
and older bloom that has set seed. You may have to come back in another
week or pick seed off the ground. And, always label, it is frustrating
to have several envelopes of unknown seed and even worse if you want to
germinate it in your garden and don't know how long to leave the ground
expectant. In the wild, taking a small amount of seed is not such a bad
thing as digging up the plant would be. And you can have the adventure
and future bragging rights of having started your own.
Sometimes it takes a while for these things to get exactly the right
start. I find that a small pot on top of my freezer eventually will
start almost anything. A film over the top helps keep it from drying
out (remove if mold starts) and the gentle bottom heat from the
refrigerator or freezer speeds germination.
On Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:11:36 -0700 (MST) mbell29@prodigy.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura
>(thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along
>roadssides)?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Dec 20 12:33:34 1999
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 05:33:34 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: peppers
All varieties of Peppers do very well near Phoenix. A light summer
shade helps them survive the summer. They do well from February to
late May and again in September to November. I've had plants live a
couple of years before dying. You could start them from seed now on top
of your refrigerator and slip them into pots after the holidays. It you
plant them out before late February, they will need a wall o water or
other frost protection.
Removing the seed helps peppers be milder than if you use the entire
fruit. They are a pretty plant: vivid green leaves, erect growth habit
(brittle so if they are near a path, provide some support to protect from
trafic), pretty fruit. I would like them behind flowers and have this
picture in my brain of an asparagus hedge farthest back, peppers in front
with low growing petunias and alysum in front. Why not?
On Sun, 19 Dec 1999 20:02:56 -0700 (MST) mbell29@prodigy.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am interested in growing and roasting chilis at home in Tempe. I
>love roasted New Mexico chilis. Is there a variety of chili that can
>be used for this purpose that will do well in our climate? I
>understand that jalapenos are hotter than New Mexicos and might be too
>hot.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Dec 21 18:21:57 1999
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:21:57 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] sod question
The best turfgrass for the low deserts is any variety of bermudagrass.
These come as seeded varieties and as sodded varieties (no seed). In
general, the sod varieties are tighter and more dense than the seeded
varieties and most of the sod bermuda varieties do not produce pollen on
their blooms.
Among the sodded bermudas, their are quite a few varieties available that
differ mainly in the amount of care and maintenance that they require.
All the way from the varieties suited for putting greens that require mowing
1-2 times per days every day at less than 1/4 inch heights to remain
healthy, all the way to taller growing, easier to maintain varieties more
suited to parks and sports fields.
Specific varieties recommended really depends on what is available at your
local nursery or garden center and how much care and maintenance you plan to
perform. Also, some varieties are better maintained with a reel mower,
while others can be cared for with either rotary or reel mowers. Check
with your local garden center or nursery and have in mind your answers to
their questions.
You can also purchase bermuda sod to lay down now - it is overseeded with
ryegrass for winter color and the underlying bermuda sod is dormant. The
bermuda will root in over the winter and when warmer temperatures return in
spring, the bermuda comes back out of dormancy and greens up - the ryegrass
fades out as temperatures climb and usually by May or June, you have a
bermuda turf established. The garden center or nursery can give you
literature sheets on planting, care and maintenance.
Hope this is helpful. If you have more specific questions you can check
in the yellow pages under sod and contact direct the area sod farms. They
can also advise you of where specific sod varieties are available locally.
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener
***********************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: ehpierce@home.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:36 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>What is the best type of sod to lay for the Phoenix area summers.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Dec 21 18:41:56 1999
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 11:41:56 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: Fw: [AG] Merimia & Datura Question
Carolyn and Carole - we still have some seed packets for the Merimia
stashed at the extension office and I have some new packets of the datura
seed ready for spring sale, so let me know when and if this check shows up
and we can get them sent out.
mike hills
**************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Hills
To: mbell29@prodigy.net
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AG] Merimia & Datura Question
>Hello - these plants are occasionally available at the seasonal plant
>sales at our three low elevation botanical gardens - Desert Botanical
Garden
>(Phoenix), Boyce Thompson Arboretum (Superior) and Tucson Botanical Garden.
>
>If you would like to try some seeds next spring as weather warms up, send a
>Check for $5.00 made out to University of Arizona. Send to Maricopa
>County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - send
>attention: Carolyn Chard. Include a copy of this email for reference.
>We can mail you a packet of each seed from our Master Gardener Volunteers.
>We had these for sale at our fall and Spring Garden Fairs and still have
>some seed packets available.
>
>Merimia - Mexican Morning Glory
>Datura - Desert Thornapple
>
>Mike hills
>Volunteer Master Gardener
>
>*********************
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mbell29@prodigy.net
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>Date: Sunday, December 19, 1999 9:33 PM
>Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>>arid_gardener
>>Where can I get yellow morning glory (Merimia aurea?)and datura
>(thornapple, sacred datura, locoweed - the one we see along roadssides)?
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>Arid_gardener mailing list
>>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>>Archives -
>>
>
>
From dukedpyle@mindspring.com Tue Dec 21 20:37:09 1999
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:37:09 -0700 (MST)
From: dukedpyle@mindspring.com dukedpyle@mindspring.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am newly relocated from Indiana! We have
a track home in North Scottsdale and the
only place we can put our garden is on the
East side of our home, next to the house.
Will this be OK for a small organic garden??!!
What base and soil should I try and what
vegitables should I start with??? Please
help!!
From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue Dec 21 13:17:08 1999
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 1999 06:17:08 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Perennial vegetables.
Keep them as long as they are doing well. They eventually will become
less productive, probably because they use up trace minerals in the spot
they have their roots. You will want to rotate where they grow.
Tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers can be kept from year to year if they
don't get a hard frost damage in the winter. The combination of hot
temperatures and white flies usually makes them so weak in the summer
that their vigor is gone by September (tomatoes, that is).
The eggplant and pepper do better with summer. In my reading this
week, asparagus is apparently an anti-nematode for tomatoes. Some of
these companion plantings must work for similar reasons. Gardening here
is such a pleasure: few weeds, two growing seasons...............
rest in the middle.
Greenhouses are often made of plastic. I think what the advisors have
in mind, with not using plastic as a cold protectant, is that there needs
to be support other than the plant to keep the plastic off leaves to give
air space to actually insulate against the cold. You have found a good
method to protect your tomatoes. And they also need ventilation which
might not happen if the plastic is too close to the plant. Go with
what works for you. If it eventually fails, improve on it and share
your information so the rest of us don't make the same mistakes. Happy
Holidays.
On Mon, 20 Dec 1999 16:09:38 -0700 (MST) Jessica.schepler@usa.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>I planted my first garden this past year and couldn't bear to pull up
>my tomatoes because they still had so many fruit. I have about 30
>plus green tomatoes that are just now beginning to ripen. Contrary to
>what everyone has told me, I just threw some clear plastic over them
>and they appear to be doing quite well. In fact, the plants are still
>flowering producing new fruit, and one of thje green tomatoes just
>ripened fully this week! Do I have to pull these plants up and put in
>new plants in order to get a new crop of tomatoes for the upcoming
>season, or will my old plants continue to produce indefinately? I
>have heard some people say they keep the same plants and just cut back
>the vines, but I have heard others say the plants (regardless of
>variety) do not continue to produce indefinately and must be pulled
>up. I live in Mesa and have 1 large earlygirl variety and two patio
>tomatoe plants. Thanks for the info! Jessica
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From mike.todd@asu.edu Wed Dec 22 21:13:01 1999
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
Hi there:
Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka garbanzos)
in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've been
having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos in
these parts. Thanks.
-mike t.
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed Dec 22 12:43:35 1999
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 05:43:35 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Re: garden location
You will find that location east of your home very good for the low
desert. The early sun is the gentlest and allows any dew (a rare thing)
to dry early in the day. As the sun gets more intense your plants will
be protected and yet there well be plenty of light from all our sunny
days. Many plants that require full sun in northern Ohio really do
better with light shade in the hot sunny low desert.
My peace rose was 12 feet east of my home and I decided I would like it
better 3 feet east of my home. It is like a different plant: 5 feet
high, thriving and blooming almost continuously while in the former
location it was sick, short and barely surviving, let alone blooming.
It might also be that the enriched soil location replaced a used up soil
location....
If you have rabbits, you will need to protect vegetables from them. A
little chicken wire surrounding your planting area is enough. However,
it needs to be 24 inches high and 6 inches into the ground! or surrounded
by rock to discourage digging. Rabbits are much hungarier and
thirstier in the desert and new growth is their favorite food. Birds
also attack new seedlings!
After the seedling stage rabbits won't be a problem for artichokes,
onions, garlic, eggplant, potatoes. They will always be a problem for
asparagus, beans, lettuce. Birds will often eat radish
foliage........... You are going to love gardening in the low desert.
Perhaps you would like to take the master gardening class; I wish I had
taken it sooner.
On Tue, 21 Dec 1999 13:37:09 -0700 (MST) dukedpyle@mindspring.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am newly relocated from Indiana! We have
>a track home in North Scottsdale and the
>only place we can put our garden is on the
>East side of our home, next to the house.
>Will this be OK for a small organic garden??!!
>
>What base and soil should I try and what
>vegitables should I start with??? Please
>help!!
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From soxmandan@aol.com Thu Dec 23 18:42:24 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 11:42:24 -0700 (MST)
From: soxmandan@aol.com soxmandan@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
Help!!!
A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base doesn't look too healthy.
Can it be salvaged and replanted???
It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
I never watered it, per instructions.
From mtmcgeough@uswest.net Thu Dec 23 21:55:34 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 14:55:34 -0700 (MST)
From: mtmcgeough@uswest.net mtmcgeough@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I work for a large landscape company and would like to do a better job at educating the spanish speaking members of my crews. I am interested in finding out where I can find spanish language horticulture information such as proper pruning, fertilizing, and general plant care. If anyone knows of a web site, books, or pamphlets that could help me in my quest, I would appreciate an e-mail.
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 23 22:57:28 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 15:57:28 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [sg] [AG] Free Goldfish in Phoenix, AZ
Thank you for what is always a timely reminder about handling non-native
species, animal OR vegetal. The Nature Conservancy (of which I am also a
member) had a fabulous article on this topic several months ago. Did you see
it?
In this urban area of Phoenix, I am passing my goldfish on to other folks
who have small, backyard water features. Mine is somewhat large at 12 x 4.5.
I was never planning to stock someone's earthen pond in a rural area! Use of
feeder fish (where one doesn't want the trouble of koi) is a common practice
for backyard ponds in our neck of the woods.
Many of us lose our fish to migratory birds as they pass through our state.
The kingfisher who visited my pond the last two years and consequently kept
the fish population manageable simply didn't show. As it turns out, I gave
the first half dozen goldfish to a neighbor two miles away who HAD just been
wiped out by a kingfisher.... Maybe it was my old friend!
You might even be surprised to know that I am raising children who have
never seen water in a river bed since virtually all our rivers have been
dammed earlier this century for power generation. Your point is well taken,
however; these might not be species that we want to introduce into the
canals that move water across our state.
Thanks for your interest, Maria.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maria Minno wrote:
> Please find out whether these are a pest species in your
> area before you pass them out. Thanks! Here in Florida
> we are suffering from a takeover by exotic fish and shellfish
> of our native species.
>
> Maria Minno
> Gainesville Florida
>
> ----------
> From: Linda A. Guy[SMTP:laguy2@primenet.com]
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 9:13 PM
> To: school_garden@mallorn.com
> Subject: [sg] [AG] Free Goldfish in Phoenix, AZ
>
> arid_gardener
> Two years ago I decided to populate my backyard pond with a dozen
> refugees from the feeder fish tank at the local tropical fish store
> [hey, at 10 for $1 it was a screaming deal]. Overwhelmed by their second
> lease on life and obviously desiring to make the most of their remaining
> days, my little ones have gone forth and multiplied. I am culling the
> school [who am I kidding? I take whatever I can catch.] and have now at
> least a dozen gold fish, hopefully more, to pass on [free of course] to
> a good home.
>
> These are your 'garden variety' goldfish, mostly orange, some white,
> some bicolored; some even pregnant! Beautiful fancy tails though. They
> are not accustomed to being fed, and forage for themselves. Smallest is
> 3.5 inches, most in the 4-5 inch range. I believe they could still come
> indoors as denizens of a larger bowl or tank, but someone else's pond is
> also a possibility. Don't confuse these with koi, which are ravenous
> vegetarians and eat everything in sight. I'm only losing some plant
> material now because of MY poor herd management practices!
>
> Any takers? Don't you think they'd make a GREAT stocking stuffer? I'm
> partial to my little fellas, and, anyway, it's too early to be putting
> one under each seed of corn in the garden......
>
> Linda Guy,
> Master Gardener
> Arcadia Neighborhood of Phoenix
> 602/852-0738
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
> _______________________________________________
> School_garden maillist - School_garden@mallorn.com
> https://secure.mallorn.com/mailman/listinfo/school_garden
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 23 23:43:27 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:43:27 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Arizona Sweets
Citrus is not my specialty, but I will try to answer your question since I haven't noticed a response yet.
In the 12-11-99 Garden Section of the Republic, Lucy Bradley wrote a column "When to give citrus a squeeze." Fruit color is not a reliable guide to the readiness of the fruit. A lack of cold days (and we are experiencing unusually balmy weather) will keep the fruit green. A taste test should be your guide. As you probably already know, the longer the fruit is on your tree the lower
the acid content drops and the sweeter it becomes.
I have seen some orange blooming in my neighborhood, and again wonder if the weather isn't the culprit, triggering a false spring reaction. You mention that an adjacent tree is performing as before, however. Is the tree that is blooming more exposed to sunlight and warmth, shading the other and keeping it cooler?
For your information, many sweet oranges are sold as Arizona Sweets, but this is not a specific variety. This can refer to Diller, Hamlin, Marrs, Pineapple or Trovita varieties, each with somewhat different harvest dates. Perhaps each tree is truly different. If you want more online information on citrus try AZ 1001 Citrus Varieties at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Good luck and good eating.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kirotate@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My orange tree has blossoms and it is only early December. I'm wondering why, and what to expect next. The oranges that had already set on it seem not to be turning color, yet there are of normal size. Incidentally, the orange tree next to it, is proceding on a normal schedule; I think the trees are 10-12 years old and my guess is they are Arizona sweet oranges. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 23 23:46:33 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:46:33 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Ripening Citrus
I know this response comes to late for your parents' departure to return to the midwest, but citrus fruit does not ripen once removed from the tree. More information can be seen in AZ1001 on citrus varieties.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
cmcarlton@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> If lemons or oranges are picked off the tree a little early, will they ripen? My parents are visiting from Ohio and leaving on 12/14. They want to ake some citrus back with them, but it is not quite ready. Please advise. Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Dec 23 23:58:15 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 16:58:15 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Tangerine Performance
Tangerines (or mandarins) typically have thin-skins, and what you described is a beautiful fruit indeed. Assuming good water (deep, not frequent and shallow) and nutrient (fertilizer is a must for good production) practices, my hunch is that this could be a variety that may need to be on the tree longer
to mature. The longer it stays on the tree, the lower the acid content drops and the sugar rises. (Fruit picked from the tree ceases to ripen.)
Our bulletin AZ 1001 on Low Desert Citrus Varieties has a table on the ripening dates for different tangerine varieties. I'm not sure it specifically applies to your locale, but it's a gauge at least. Unfortunately, it suggests that indeed, you have a problem, since most varieties are ready in November.
There is one variety (Kinnow) that ripens later than others.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
alwardt@futureone.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The first two years of production on my single tangerine tree have produced a large crop of small, thin-skinned,beautifully colored and textured "very sour" fruit. The tree is on a drip system. We live in the desert near Aguila. Is there anything that can be done to make this abundant crop edible?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 24 00:03:46 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:03:46 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Growing Saguaro from Seed
Hi Cheyl, Sunsfan!
I can't answer your question, but I bet I know who can. Contact the Desert Botanical Garden hotline between 10 and 11:30 am, Mon thru
Fri with your question (480-941-1225). You could also try the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society (602/493-7003) or the
Arizona Native Plant Society, Phoenix Chapter (602-992-5435). Both clubs meet at the DBG on a regular basis.
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
Sunsfan001@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am interested in growing saguaros from seed. eg pre-treatment of seeds? potting medium, soil dampness, germination time, etc.
>
> Thnaks,
> Cheyl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 24 00:11:24 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:11:24 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Grapes
A late rain suggests you may not be in the Phoenix area where it hasn't rained in quite some time. Grapes are deciduous so the leaf coloration and (presumed) loss are
typical in fall. I cannot volunteer a suggestion as to "blight", but I can't think whay this would be a result of rainfall.
May I suggest our publications MC59 Backyard Grapes and Q276 Growing Grapes at Home, both available by sending your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
teacher@bmol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have Flame and Thompson varieties.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 24 00:18:51 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:18:51 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
I can't directly reply, but I know that the folks at Native Seeds/SEARCH in
Tucson sell the seeds and usually always send fact sheets with your purchase.
The phone number is 520/622-5561. Seed packets are $1.50, plus s/h, plus you'll
be supporting a great organization.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Todd wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Hi there:
>
> Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka garbanzos)
> in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
> wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've been
> having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos in
> these parts. Thanks.
>
> -mike t.
>
> Mike Todd
> Graduate Research Associate
>
> Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
> Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
> PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
> Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
>
> E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
> ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
> ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 24 00:21:44 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 17:21:44 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Saguaro Emergency
From Monday thru Friday, between the hours of 10-11:30 am, the Desert Botanical Garden Hotline is available at 480-941-1225. Make sure you call tomorrow, as they are closed on
12/25.
Best of luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
soxmandan@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
> Help!!!
> A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base doesn't look too healthy.
> Can it be salvaged and replanted???
> It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
> I never watered it, per instructions.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu Dec 23 12:41:22 1999
Date: Thu, 23 Dec 1999 05:41:22 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
That is interesting and I would like the results of your effort, too!
How do you know they are a cool season crop? Where did you get your
seed? Are they looking at all stressed by the short days and cool
weather? I have an old Taylor's:
"The chick-pea is an annual long cult. in southern Eu. for food.
Unlike the garden pea, it will stand considerable summer heat. Sow the
seeds 6-8 in. apart in drills about 2 in. deep, and space the rows at
least 2 ft. apart. The plant is of easy culture."
"arietinum. Chick-pea or garbanzo. A sticky-hairy annual, 1-2 ft.
high and branched. Leaflets 9-15, ovalish, about 1/2 in. long, finely
toothed. Flowers white or pinkish, scarecely 3/8 in. long. Pod nearly
1 in. long and half as wide, the seed wrinkled, about 1/3 in. in
diameter, one end pointed as though a ram's horn, white, red or black.
Western Asia." There is a paragraph above these 2 that
says that the chick-pea is the only one of interest among the dozen
"Asiatic herbs" of this family name. Apparently the standard is for one
seed per pod.
Page 88 of John Jeavon's book: "How to Grow more Vegetables......"
gives: 50 seeds per ounce, suggests 4 inch spacing in beds, 9 weeks to
maturity, 8 week harvest period and the other information seems quite
indefinite and not very encouraging.
On Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:13:01 -0700 mike.todd@asu.edu (Michael Todd)
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Hi there:
>
>Does anyone on the list have experience growing chickpeas (aka
>garbanzos)
>in the Phoenix area? This is my first time to try the crop, and I am
>wondering about irrigation needs, esp. given the long dry spell we've
>been
>having. I would appreciate any other pointers for growing garbanzos
>in
>these parts. Thanks.
>
>-mike t.
>
>Mike Todd
>Graduate Research Associate
>
>Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC
>3051
>Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
>PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
>Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
>
>E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
>ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
>ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Fri Dec 24 14:13:36 1999
Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 07:13:36 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Growing Garbanzos
Hi again Mike,
Further to my response yesterday, Native Seeds/SEARCH is now online, and
at
http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/catalog/seedlist.html
you will find brief cultivating and seed-saving instructions for what is
indeed a cool season legume here in our deserts.
Enjoy your crop.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From dmkerr@dancris.com Sat Dec 25 21:57:38 1999
Date: Sat, 25 Dec 1999 14:57:38 -0700
From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BF4EE8.62DEA1C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and =
hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants or =
is the sodium concentration too high?
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BF4EE8.62DEA1C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
How can I get chlorine out of tap water =
for=20
watering houseplants and hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater =
to make it=20
usable for plants or is the sodium concentration too=20
high?
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BF4EE8.62DEA1C0--
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Dec 27 16:39:03 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:39:03 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] clover weeds in lawns
There are many different brands of "weed & feed" type products sold by the
Valley's nurseries and garden centers. These products are the best bet
for killing clover growing in your winter overseeded ryegrass lawn. Make
sure that the product says "post-emergent" on it somewhere as this kills
broadleaf weeds that have already sprouted and are growing in the lawn.
Most of these products do control clover, but you might double check by
reading the label to be sure that clover is listed. The fertilizer content
in the bag will also help the ryegrass to grow thicker and more lush -
thick healthy grass helps to keep more weeds from sprouting by reducing the
amount of light that reaches the soil surface.
For organic home gardeners, a couple of solutions work fairly well. Hand
pulling on smaller infestations is a good method - usually this is "Burr
Clover" which has a central tap root with long flat branches spreading
ut - using a knife to cut the central tap root just below ground level and
rolling up all the side branches to discard works very well. Also, some
people have luck with spraying a solution of vinegar on broadleaf weeds.
Use common white vinegar (inexpensive at any grocery store) and mix a
solution of about 25% vinegar and 75% water. Wait until the lawn is
scheduled to be mowed, before spraying with the vinegar solution. Spray in
the morning so that the warmth of the day will help this solution to burn
the clover - it is best to just spray on & around the clover plants,
especially any newly emerging clover seedlings. Some clovers are a little
tougher and are easier to kill with vinegar while they are still small
seedlings - if the plants are more mature, the vinegar may only stunt them
or burn some of the leaves, without actually killing the clover plants.
The vinegar should not hurt your ryegrass plants, although it is a good idea
to water the lawn late the same afternoon as you spray the vinegar to reduce
any stress to the ryegrass. Mowing the lawn a couple days later will
remove any damaged leaf tips from the ryegrass.
It is very critical that you control the clover as soon as possible. If
left to mature and begin blooming, it can produce hundreds of new seeds to
sit in the soil until next fall - controlling the existing plants early
and preventing seed formation can greatly reduce your problems in future
years.
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener
**********************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: jdebolske@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:38 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>How do keep clover from growing in the winter in a bermuda grass lawn?
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Dec 27 17:45:35 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 10:45:35 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Re: ryegrass problems
Scott Esling
I am a Volunteer Master Gardener, but in "real life" I work for the local
office of an Oregon grass seed company - Seed Research of Oregon. I'll
give you some advice and suggestions below and then if you need any more
specific details, feel free to call and discuss with my office.
1) Topdressing with a sand and seed mixture into your divots is the normal
practice in this area and usually works quite well on golf courses, turf
horse tracks, parks, etc.
2) Soil Temperatures have dropped considerably since you planted the seed
in October - as the soils cool off, the ryegrass seed reverts to its true
pattern of taking 3-4+ weeks to sprout and emerge. (Earlier in the fall,
while soil temperatures are still warm, the ryegrass seed can pop up in as
little as 5 days). Anything you can do to darken the soil color will
help to warm it and help with seed germination during mid-winter. Mixing
Activated Charcoal with you sand/seed mix, or maybe some darker colored
mulch will really help. The dark color (rather than pale sand) will help
absorb heat from the sun and warm the soil better in your divots that you
are re-planting. Also, with our long dry spell this fall, you may want
to alter your watering schedule - you need to start watering for longer
peiods to keep the already sprouted grass plants happy - deeper watering
for healthier deeper roots. On the other hand, you do need to water 3
times a day to keep your divot seeds germinating as well. See if there is
any way to modify your watering to accomodate both of these.
3) Watering at night is in general not recommended due to higher
incidences of fungal diseases, BUt in reality our climate has few turfgrass
related fungal diseases in most seasons. The local water companies
recommend that homeowners water their lawns at night due to a slight savings
in water from less evaporation at night. THE GOLF COURSES mostly water at
night due to watering schedules on large turf acreage - they have to rotate
through the sprinkler system, watering one section at a time, to keep their
water pressure up. With 100-200 acres on a golf course, this often means
rotaing into the night. They also water at night to accomodate their
customers who don't want to be sprayed while golfing during the day.
Hope these answers help you some. You may also want to contact Dr. Dave
Kopec and Dr. Ken Marcum with the Karsten Turfgrass Research Center in
Tucson - this is the turf research department of the College of
Agriculture, with the University of Arizona.
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
Mike Hills
Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales
Seed Research of Oregon
5314 West Luke Avenue
Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA
tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298
email mhills_sro@msn.com
WEB www.sroseed.com
*******************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Esling, Scott J(Z99952)
To: 'mhills_sro@email.msn.com'
Date: Tuesday, December 21, 1999 4:02 AM
Subject: rye grass
>Dear sir,
> I am a golf driving range owner in Glendale,AZ and am in need of
>advice. Before I ask for the advise here's a little background...I am not a
>professional greenskeeper. I opened my facility having only basic knowledge
>of lawn care. I use Fertizona and follow their fertilizing advice. I also
>purchase my seed through them.
>I planted my 360' x 75' teebox last February (overseeded dormant bermuda
>sod). I transitioned back to winter rye in mid-October and the rye came in
>nicely. By the second week of Nov. golfers began "hitting" off of it. I
>move my teeing stations based upon usage and I topdress with sand to fill
in
>the divoted areas. I then add new rye seed. It is this new seed that will
>not grow. I follow the same water schedule as I did when I first
established
>my winter lawn -- daily, (3) five minute cycles. If you will, please give
>advice on these questions:
>How can I get regrowth for my teebox? Is it too cold now for germination to
>occur? Is the sand that I use not the right material? Could it be that it
>does not foster new growth?
>I know experts say not to water at night but how come almost all golf
>courses do and why is their turf usually perfect?
>Is there any chance that I could get U of A to investigate my turf? Is my
>story worthy of research? Does the Agricultural Dept have a need for
>research and development areas at commercial sites? If not, do you know of
>any organization that would?
>Thanks for your time.
>Scott Esling
>
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Dec 27 19:38:53 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 12:38:53 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] saguaro problem
Hello Gardener
Sorry to hear about your saguaro falling over. I would suggest very
strobly that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden here in Phoenix.
They have an expert on staff who has had 100% success with transplanting
many saguaroes over the last 15 years. The Desert Botanical Garden has
an easy to read and understand information sheet on transplanting saguaros
and their care the first year to insure success - this was written by Cezar,
their resident expert. Desert Botanical Garden tel#480-941-1225 -
One thing to NOTE: The Desert Botanical Garden experts all recommend that
YOU DO WATER the transplanted saguaro quite a bit the first year - or else
it will not survive. Remember that you are asking it to generate an
entire new root system and it needs water to do this. The Botanical
Garden's sheet has explicit watering instructions.
From your saguaro falling over, I would guess that it may have also been
planted too deeply originally and therefor has not developed a new strong
root system - many landscapers tend to plant them way too deep, in order
not to use any supports. With the root system too far below ground it
does not get enough water to re-develop so these plants often falll over or
die after a year or two or more. The information sheet form the Desert
Botanical Garden goes into more detail on this, if you choose to try and
replant. This correct watering is especially critical for your Lake Havasu
area, since I don't think you receive enough rainfall for healthy optimum
saguaro growth.
On another note, your cactus may be too damaged to bother replanting. If
it crashed to the ground in its recent fall, the internal structure may be
extensively damaged. A large mature saguaro weighs a lot and when they
crash over, the trunk and support structure is often cracked and fractured
(almost shattered) - you may want to look closely at your cactus and check
for visible cracks and bruising. Depending on the severity of the damage,
you can decide whether or not to replant. In the meantime, keep the plant
base dry and open to the air so that any damage or tears in the base can
callous over and begin healing before you replant. If some areas appear
rotten and watery, scrape them away down to healthy tissue and let the air
heal the wound - no need to apply bleach or other materials, as long as you
scrape the rotten parts out down to fresh tissue.
You may also want to contact the company that sold you the cactus and/or
transplanted it originally for you. Sometimes they will warranty their
cacti, especially if they did the planting themselves. You should still
get the Desertt Botanical Gardens Saguaro transplanting sheet to discuss
with the re-planters to make sure it is done right this time and to make
sure that your follow up care is correct..
Hope this has helped. Good Luck!
mike hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
**********************************
-----Original Message-----
From: soxmandan@aol.com
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Thursday, December 23, 1999 11:52 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>I have a sajuaro emergency!!!
>Help!!!
>A two armed 16 foot sajauro was planted in my yard last january from Mesa
to Lake Havasu City...it blew over in the wind two days ago and the base
doesn't look too healthy.
>Can it be salvaged and replanted???
>It has been up in my yard less than a year!!
>I never watered it, per instructions.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Dec 27 20:03:36 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 13:03:36 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] water
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_01B7_01BF506A.C968B060
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Kerr Family
If you are using only small amounts of water for your houseplants and =
hydroponics, then there is an easy solution. Chlorine is a volatile =
gas that will actually evaporate from treated tap water left standing in =
an open container - usually 24 hours is long enough - pots, gallon =
jugs, pails, etc.. I used this system for many years for home =
aquariums, when I was concerned about excessive chlorine levels on more =
sensitive fish. =20
With most houseplants, the chlorine levels in most of our Arizona tap =
water are not high enough to be harmful. You do need to flush the =
pots at least once per month by watering excessively and making sure the =
water completely drains through - none left sitting in the drain tray. =
This will usually help to eliminate any excess ssalts that have =
accumulated in the soil from our water.
I will wait for some other more knowledgeable Master Gardeners to answer =
you on re-use of the pool backwash water on your yard plants. I've =
heard both sides over the years - "harmful" and "not harmful" so I am =
not too sure what to tell you.
Good Luck - mike hills, Volunteer Master Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Kerr Family
To: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Saturday, December 25, 1999 2:58 PM
Subject: [AG] (no subject)
=20
=20
How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and =
hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants =
or is the sodium concentration too high?
------=_NextPart_000_01B7_01BF506A.C968B060
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Kerr Family
If you are using only small amounts of water for =
your=20
houseplants and hydroponics, then there is an easy solution. =
Chlorine is a volatile gas that will actually evaporate from treated tap =
water=20
left standing in an open container - usually 24 hours is long =
enough -=20
pots, gallon jugs, pails, etc.. I used this system for =
many=20
years for home aquariums, when I was concerned about excessive chlorine =
levels=20
on more sensitive fish.
With most houseplants, the chlorine levels in most =
of our=20
Arizona tap water are not high enough to be harmful. =
You do=20
need to flush the pots at least once per month by watering excessively =
and=20
making sure the water completely drains through - none left sitting in =
the drain=20
tray. This will usually help to eliminate any excess ssalts =
that=20
have accumulated in the soil from our water.
I will wait for some other more knowledgeable Master =
Gardeners=20
to answer you on re-use of the pool backwash water on your yard=20
plants. I've heard both sides over the years -=20
"harmful" and "not harmful" so I am not too sure =
what to=20
tell you.
Good Luck - mike hills, Volunteer Master =
Gardener
*******************************************
-----Original =
Message-----
From:=20
Kerr Family <dmkerr@dancris.com>
To: =
Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
=20
<Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>
Date:=20
Saturday, December 25, 1999 2:58 PM
Subject: [AG] (no=20
subject)
How can I get chlorine out of tap =
water for=20
watering houseplants and hydroponics?
Is there a way to treat pool =
backwater to make=20
it usable for plants or is the sodium concentration too=20
high?
------=_NextPart_000_01B7_01BF506A.C968B060--
From bronwenjones@earthlink.net Mon Dec 27 16:58:00 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 09:58:00 -0700 (MST)
From: bronwenjones@earthlink.net bronwenjones@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My (twisted) Cereus (Senita?) has turned
light yellow. All other Cereus within
25 feet appear normal, including a large
Suguaro. What causes this and what
should I do about it?
From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Dec 28 01:29:06 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:29:06 -0700
From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com
Subject: [AG] Spanish
Hello arid gardener
I have a couple of handy books that I have picked up over the years that are
for Agricultural and Horticultural Spanish. Real handy and easy to use.
These are more dictionary style for your use, rather than actually Spanish
language horticultural information. Perhaps another one of our arid
gardener answerers can help with more suggestions.
I believe I picked them up at the University of AriZona BOOKSTORE, BUT NOT
100% CERTAIN. You could call them in Tucson and ask.
Otherwise, here is the information on the better one that I keep here in my
office., With ISBN# and details you can maybe order from your local
favorite bookstore. Or even look for this title online with Amazon.
ISBN 0-913702-56-0
Library of Congress Catalog # 93-0060117
"Thompson's English/Spanish Spanish/English Illustrated Agricultural
Dictionary"
by Dr. Robert P. Rice Jr. (published in 1993)
Published by Thompson Publications - maybe they are on-line these days too
if you do a search?
Good Luck!
Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County
**********************************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: mtmcgeough@uswest.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Date: Thursday, December 23, 1999 3:18 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>arid_gardener
>I work for a large landscape company and would like to do a better job at
educating the spanish speaking members of my crews. I am interested in
finding out where I can find spanish language horticulture information such
as proper pruning, fertilizing, and general plant care. If anyone knows of
a web site, books, or pamphlets that could help me in my quest, I would
appreciate an e-mail.
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
>
From gallegos.me@pg.com Tue Dec 28 01:15:23 1999
Date: Mon, 27 Dec 1999 18:15:23 -0700 (MST)
From: gallegos.me@pg.com gallegos.me@pg.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Purchasing large quantities of Citrus Trees:
Our family recently purchased an old historic home that
has over 9 acres in citrus trees. Over 500 trees of assorted citrus tress
exist. Many trees are 50 years old and are dying quickly. We want
to revitalize the orchard and want to purchase replacements. Without having
From mike.todd@asu.edu Tue Dec 28 17:49:52 1999
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:49:52 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: Re(2): [AG] Chickpea (Cicer arietinum) irrigation, etc.
Linda and Dawn:
Thanks for your responses. In fact, I purchased my garbanzo seeds (var.
Dolores de Hidalgo) from NS/S (an organization I am proud to be a member
of). Unfortunately, I don't always find the info I need in the
seedlistings or even with phone calls to the Tucson store. Linda, if you
know of a specific person or persons to ask for at NS/S for plant advice,
could you please send that info along? Thanks again.
-mike t.
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From AugieASA@AOL.COM Tue Dec 28 17:20:30 1999
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 10:20:30 -0700 (MST)
From: AugieASA@AOL.COM AugieASA@AOL.COM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My question regards FIG Trees.
My Fig tree produces Figs but they seem to never mature to sweetness. Is ther a soil conditioner that needs to be applied. The
varity of Figs are (don't know the name) but they are white ones and produce 2X a year.
Any help would be appriciated
Thanks Augie
From amews@aol.com Tue Dec 28 20:12:46 1999
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 13:12:46 -0700 (MST)
From: amews@aol.com amews@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
None of our bedding plants are thriving this year--lots of initial growth then wilt & death. We water regularly & fertilize. We are not new to gardening but can't figure out why our flower beds look so pitiful! We live in the desert & have always amended the soil. Also, our roses do not thrive-- lots of dead limbs and sickly stems very little flowering. They seem to do well initally then kapoot! HELP & THANKS
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 29 14:45:36 1999
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:45:36 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Kerr Family,
First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating
chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This
may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic
operation. The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used
to have a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to
give you some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited
their facility on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's
an interesting place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)
It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note to
our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large
quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be
interested. (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)
Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe
for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing
from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some
circumstances the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and
the publication lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to
salt content. Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my
Master Gardener training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool
water. The publication is available by mailing $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative
Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
> How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and
> hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable
> for plants or is the sodium concentration too high?
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Hi Kerr Family,
First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating
chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This
may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic operation.
The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used to have
a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to give you
some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited their facility
on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's an interesting
place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)
It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note
to our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large
quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested.
(arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)
Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water:
Safe for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing
from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some circumstances
the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and the publication
lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to salt content.
Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my Master Gardener
training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool water. The publication
is available by mailing $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
How
can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and hydroponics?Is
there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for plants or is
the sodium concentration too high?
--------------9D1452964B284A61103515F3--
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Dec 29 14:57:49 1999
Date: Wed, 29 Dec 1999 07:57:49 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Renovating a Citrus Orchard
You note appears to have been truncated (see below). Can you tell us more about
what information you are seeking? Also, what area of the valley are you located
in?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gallegos.me@pg.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Purchasing large quantities of Citrus Trees:
> Our family recently purchased an old historic home that
> has over 9 acres in citrus trees. Over 500 trees of assorted citrus tress
> exist. Many trees are 50 years old and are dying quickly. We want
> to revitalize the orchard and want to purchase replacements. Without