Date: Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] pre-emergent treatment for spurge in lawn
=20
=20
I read that this is the time to put on the pre emergent treatment =
for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. I can find things to =
kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. The one thing I found said =
to apply when the weeds are growing but the spurge doesn't really grow =
till the weather gets hot. Is this the right time and if so could you =
give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? I looked at Home Depot =
and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Tom & Peggy =
Derieg
Hope that this is a little helpful in your search =
for a=20
Pre-Emergent Herbicide for your lawn.
I assume that you have a bermudagrass lawn of come =
variety and=20
are a low desert resident. Did you overseed with =
ryegrass this=20
fall? The instructions on the bag that you =
thought meant=20
that it could kill the grass usually refers to new grass seedlings =
- =20
not to a mature turf plants. If your ryegrass has been =
in for=20
a couple months now, you can go ahead and apply one of these "weed =
&=20
feed" type products at the rate recommended on the bag (NOT any =
higher!)=20
and should have no problems with death to your ryegrass or the =
underlying=20
dormant bermuda plants. You just should not apply before or =
shortly=20
after putting down ryegrass seed in the fall, OR new bermuda seed in the =
late=20
spring/summer.
Generally we recommend that the pre-emergent =
herbicide and=20
fertilizer combination products are applied in the Fall (if you do not =
overseed)=20
and again in early Spring (whether you overseed or not) - =
this will=20
help take care of the crop of fall sprouting weed species and the crop =
of spring=20
sprouters (like spurge) as they pop up. Read the bag labels =
closely=20
and make sure it says Pre-emergent and then apply in February or early =
March for=20
spurge control. Lots of different brand labels, so =
cannot=20
recommend any specific brand - just depends on the one that =
your=20
store has in stock.
The post-emergent weed killers are =
for treatment=20
of weeds in winter and summer, after the weeds already germinated and=20
established because you missed your fall or spring applications of=20
pre-emergents. The winter cold should kill any spurge =
you have=20
in your lawn now, and a properly applied early spring product should =
stop most=20
of the seeds from sprouting next year.
One thing - usually the nurseries and =
garden=20
centers do not stock these pre-emergents in mid-summer and mid-winter, =
which may=20
explain your difficulty finding them. They stock them only =
during=20
the part of the year when they should be applied - early spring and =
early=20
fall. Wait until February to look for it again. =
ALSO, a critical factor in weed control in a lwan is =
to keep=20
the lawn thick and dense and healthy. Proper lawn care =
-=20
watering, mowing, fertilizing, etc. - will usually prevent thin or bare =
areas -=20
no thin or bare areas means no sunlight o nthe soil which =3D no weed =
seeds=20
sprouting each year. Check our University of Arizona =
and=20
Maricopa County Extension website for turf care information to get your =
lawn=20
healthy again. ALSO, we have a turf and lawn care class =
scheduled=20
for this year that would probably help you a lot. =
Contact=20
Master Gardener Lori Thompson at lthompson@rocketmail.com&nbs=
p; for=20
details of time, date, cost, etc. for this upcoming class =
session.
Good Luck!
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa =
County
**********************************************************
-----Original =
Message-----
From:=20
Tom Derieg <tderieg@goodnet.com>
To:=
=20
arid gardener <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>
Date:=20
Tuesday, December 07, 1999 12:49 PM
Subject: [AG] =
pre-emergent=20
treatment for spurge in lawn
I read that this is the time to put on the =
pre=20
emergent treatment for weeds in the lawn but don't know what to use. =
I can=20
find things to kill the weeds but they also kill the grass. =
The one=20
thing I found said to apply when the weeds are growing but the =
spurge=20
doesn't really grow till the weather gets hot. Is this the right =
time and if=20
so could you give me a brand name and maybe where to find it? =
I looked=20
at Home Depot and Tip Top Nursery. Thanks. Peggy=20
Derieg
------=_NextPart_000_00EB_01BF4307.624B5740--
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:58:29 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 15:58:29 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Institute of Desert Ecology
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist (Mammals) -Carol
Olson, M.S., University of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona
(Herpetology)-Linwood Smith, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds & Plants) -Bob
Scarborough, Consulting Geologist (Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available through the
University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1 unit) for an
additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate), payable at the
Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a means of
bringing
together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors for field studies of the
Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held at Catalina State Park, at the base
of Santa Catalina Mountains, April 13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may
be earned during the sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am, however, all
participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12 after 4 pm to
register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee includes a waiver of park
entrance and camping fees for April 12 through 16. The program will end at 2:30
pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State Park. The
spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina Mountains forms the backdrop
for this 5,500 acre desert park located just north of Tucson at elevations
ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The desert washes, canyons and bajadas
contain a vast array of desert plants and wildlife. The park is a popular
birding area and has a bird list of over 150 species that have been seen within
its borders. Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees,
adjacent to undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian
areas, and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot, but
expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with emphasis on
relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical characteristics of
the desert rather than classification and identification. Our days start early
and optional activities such as owling, blacklighting for insects and star
talks extend into the evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in
small groups during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of the Audobon
Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in good health.
Registration is limited to no more than 65 people. Faculty members are
experienced at teaching students with different knowledge levels; anyone with
an interest in natural history and desert ecology can participate. No pets are
allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own tents or campers.
Water is available at the site, but there are no electrical or water hookups.
To avoid disrupting the peaceful surroundings, operation of generators is not
permitted at the site. Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and
the park has holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate vegetarians. Before
early field sessions, a nutritious pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact
the director for further information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes instruction, camp
services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on Thursday morning and ending
with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable deposit of $45 per person must
accompany the registration form. The balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please
make checks payable to the Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be
refunded for cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are available
(contact your director for information). *To avoid disappointment, please
register early, since the Institute is often fully enrolled several months in
advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of Desert Ecology, 300 E.
University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386, sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
In cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board and the University of
Arizona
30th Annual Institute of Desert Ecology
April 13-16,2000
Catalina State Park
Tucson, Arizona
Faculty: -Ronnie
Sidner, Ph.D., Consulting Biologist
(Mammals) -Carol Olson, M.S., University
of Arizona (Entomology)
-Cecil
Schwalbe, Ph.D., University of Arizona (Herpetology)-Linwood Smith,
Ph.D., University of Arizona (Birds & Plants)
-Carl
Tomoff, Ph.D., Prescott College (Birds &
Plants) -Bob Scarborough, Consulting Geologist
(Geology)
University Credit: Graduate or undergraduate credit is available
through the University of Arizona (RNR 497/597B - Desert Ecosystems, 1
unit) for an additional fee of $111 (undergraduate) or $121 (graduate),
payable at the Institute (these fees may change).
Since 1970, The Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a
means of bringing together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors
for field studies of the Sonoran Desert. The Institute will be held
at Catalina State Park, at the base of Santa Catalina Mountains, April
13-16, 2000. One unit of college credit may be earned during the
sessions.
DATES: The Institute begins on Thursday, April 13 at 6:30 am,
however, all participants are encourages to arrive on Wednesday, April 12
after 4 pm to register and set up camp. The Desert Institute fee
includes a waiver of park entrance and camping fees for April 12 through
16. The program will end at 2:30 pm on Sunday, April 16.
LOCATION: The site of the Desert Institute is Catalina State
Park. The spectacular northwest face of the Santa Catalina
Mountains forms the backdrop for this 5,500 acre desert park located just
north of Tucson at elevations ranging form 2,650 to 3,000 feet. The
desert washes, canyons and bajadas contain a vast array of desert plants
and wildlife. The park is a popular birding area and has a bird
list of over 150 species that have been seen within its borders.
Our camping area is comfortably shaded by mesquite trees, adjacent to
undisturbed desert washes, canyons, hillsides, and rich riparian areas,
and secluded from other campgrounds. Days should be sunny and hot,
but expect chilly evenings.
PROGRAM: Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert ecosystems with
emphasis on relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical
characteristics of the desert rather than classification and
identification. Our days start early and optional activities such
as owling, blacklighting for insects and star talks extend into the
evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in small groups
during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties
together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.
PARTICIPANTS: Those who attend do not need to be members of
the Audobon Society. They should be at least 18 years old and in
good health. Registration is limited to no more than 65
people. Faculty members are experienced at teaching students with
different knowledge levels; anyone with an interest in natural history
and desert ecology can participate. No pets are allowed.
ACCOMMODATIONS AND MEALS: Participants furnish their own
tents or campers. Water is available at the site, but there are no
electrical or water hookups. To avoid disrupting the peaceful
surroundings, operation of generators is not permitted at the site.
Solar showers and portable restrooms are provided, and the park has
holding tank disposal facilities. Ample, tasty meals are catered
from an on-site unit, with adequate choices to accommodate
vegetarians. Before early field sessions, a nutritious
pre-breakfast snack is available. Contact the director for further
information about arrangements.
FEE & REGISTRATION: The cost of $295 per person includes
instruction, camp services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on
Thursday morning and ending with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable
deposit of $45 per person must accompany the registration form. The
balance is due by March 10, 2000. Please make checks payable to the
Institute of Desert Ecology. No money will be refunded for
cancellations received after April 1, 2000, unless we can fill the
vacancy from the waiting list. A few partial scholarships are
available (contact your director for information). *To avoid
disappointment, please register early, since the Institute is often fully
enrolled several months in advance.
*We welcome donations for scholarships. These donations are tax
deductible.
IMPORTANT: Please make departing flight reservations for 4pm
or later.
QUESTIONS? Contact Tucson Audubon Society, Institute of
Desert Ecology, 300 E. University Blvd #120, Tucson, AZ 85705
DIRECTOR: Leona J. Lansing, 520-721-7386,
sonoralee@aol.com
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_27191974==_.ALT--
From Kirotate@aol.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 17:20:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Kirotate@aol.com Kirotate@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My orange tree has blossoms and it is only early December. I'm wondering why, and what to expect next. The oranges that had already set on it seem not to be turning color, yet there are of normal size. Incidentally, the orange tree next to it, is proceding on a normal schedule; I think the trees are 10-12 years old and my guess is they are Arizona sweet oranges. Thank you.
From bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:26:06 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:26:06 -0700
From: Carl Olson bugman@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] ants
That's an interesting question. The only time I know of people getting ants
is for an ant farm and normally those things have a supplier. I am assuming
you want live ants, not dead ones. You might also try Wards Scientific or
Carolina Biological Supply for live material.
Carl
Carl A. Olson
Associate Curator
Dept. of Entomology
http://deadbugs.agforbes.arizona.edu/
University of Arizona
Tucson, AZ 85721
FAX (520) 621-1150 Office (520) 621-5925
e-mail bugman@ag.arizona.edu
NOTE from Lucy Bradley
Carolina Biological Supply, 2700 York Road, Burlington, NC 27215 has an
online catalog that contains an Ant Farm with a
certificate for ants. However, Arizona Residents must have a certificate
from USDA to receive ants.
From edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:34:35 -0700
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:34:35 -0700
From: by way of Lucy Bradley edythe.jensen@arizonarepublic.com
Subject: [AG] free fertilizer
Free organic fertilizer: goat manure; animals fed on alfalfa hay; no bermuda or
weeds. Gilbert, Arizona near Warner and Cooper roads. call for directions:
480-899-0534.
Thanks!
Edythe Jensen
From judithcheek@yahoo.com Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0800 (PST)
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 18:53:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Marilyn Lehrbach judithcheek@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Found it!
Thank you. I found some brittlebush at Tip Top
Nursery on Bell Rd, Glendale. We are from WA. state
and desert gardening is very new to us as we come from
a wet and less than always sunny climate. Again,
thank you. Marilyn L. (judithcheek@yahoo.com)
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place.
Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com
From cmcarlton@uswest.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:58:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 08:58:00 -0700 (MST)
From: cmcarlton@uswest.net cmcarlton@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
If lemons or oranges are picked off the tree a little early, will they ripen? My parents are visiting from Ohio and leaving on 12/14. They want to ake some citrus back with them, but it is not quite ready. Please advise. Thanks.
From j.turbenson@att.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:44 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 09:13:44 -0700 (MST)
From: j.turbenson@att.net j.turbenson@att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We moved here this summer from Minnesota. We have a large irrigated lot in Gilbert. I already have a raised bed garden on the property and flower beds. So far, anything I have planted just seems to sit there for awhile and dies. Nothing flourishes but acts like it is poisoned somehow. I have tried tomatos, petunias, herbs, Mums, etc. but nothing seems to want to grow and just withers and dies or stays in the soil without growth. Help. Thanks.
From Sunsfan001@aol.com Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:26:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 11:26:34 -0700 (MST)
From: Sunsfan001@aol.com Sunsfan001@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am interested in growing saguaros from seed. eg pre-treatment of seeds? potting medium, soil dampness, germination time, etc.
Thnaks,
Cheyl
From mulness@uswest.net Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:27:49 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 14:27:49 -0700 (MST)
From: mulness@uswest.net mulness@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Every year I grow a number of tomato and
pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
have some leaves that are slightly curled
and the whole plant does not have healthy
green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
and peppers but are not growing to the size
they should. We had a few white flies but not
amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
the years we have mulched and fertilized so
we have a very good soil base.
We use a soaker hose watering system so they
are watered well.
I hope I have given you enough so you can
come up with an answer.
Thank You, Merv Ulness
mulness@uswest.net
From eandrcook@hotmail.com Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: eandrcook@hotmail.com eandrcook@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
From teacher@bmol.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST)
From: teacher@bmol.com teacher@bmol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have Flame and Thompson varieties.
From helend5@aol.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 13:02:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 13:02:19 -0700 (MST)
From: helend5@aol.com helend5@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 2 questions.
1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help.
2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help!
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis. Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them. They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season. But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:37:43 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:37:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Utility Line Clearing - Saguaro
I know you are frustrated with SRP's having cut your your majestic plant. I forwarded your note to the relevant unit (through my husband who is an SRP employee) to confirm my understanding of the utility's line clearing practices. It is the homeowner's responsibility to keep plant material pruned to a point that is reasonably clear of the lines for obvious safety
reasons and power delivery needs. As a homeowner, it would therefore be up to me to engage in the most beneficial horticultural practices for my plants/trees as well as the balanced look of the trees and aesthetics of my yard.
If I do not do so, and my trees threatened the lines in some way, the utility is permitted to 'clear the lines'. Although effort is made to use horticulturally correct pruning techniques, only that part of my tree that is in the lines will be cut.
Also, SRP would contact me only if they needed access to my property; if they can access my plant material through the alley or other easements or rights of way, they will do so without prior notice, as is their right.
The 45 degree angle was a good practice to minimize damage to your saguaro, as noted by a colleague who previously responded. If you have any questions for SRP itself, please contact the Line Clearing Division at 602/236-8888.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
alan35@goodnet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve this fantastic plant.
>
> Thanks for any help you can provide.
> Alan
> WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com
>
> The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page
> http://thewall-usa.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:09:19 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:09:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Brittlebush
I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> how much?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:16:42 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:16:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:26:02 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:26:02 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Lime Harvest Time
The UofA published a nice discussion of Citrus Trees in the Home Garden
(formerly #8464; I'm not sure of the new #) which suggests that Bearss
ripens from July through November, but will carry some fruit all year.
Taste testing is the best barometer, but remember, this is a tart lime.
If you're interested in the publication send $1 to:
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Hope you're enjoying your harvest!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
LEONARDEM@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> BEARS LIME TREES
> WHAT TIME OF THE YEAR ARE THE FRUIT READY FOR PICKING
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:30:52 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:30:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Purchasing Brittlebush
This is more commonly available than you might expect. I've seen them at Harpers, Tip Top, Bakers, Desert Winds....now that xeriscaping is taking off (low water use) many nurseries have them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
judithcheek@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was recently at the Botanical gardens in Phoenix and saw a plant there i thought was beautiful. It is called Brittlebush (silvery leaves and stems). I checked a few places near where I live but nobody had it. where can I buy Brittlebush?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:37:24 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:37:24 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Tomatos and Peppers in the Winter
Your plants would appear to be doing what comes naturally, as these are
fundamentally warm season vegetables in our area. I've never tried to
keep these two plants through the winter (I'm too preoccupied with my
cool season crops and don't want to allot the space!) but I really give
high marks to a device called the "wall 'o' water". It's about 2.5 feet
high and is a round plastic sleeve that fits around plants. The walls
are cylinders into which you put water with the garden hose. This then
becomes a hothouse for your plants.
I usually plant my "summer" tomatos mid Feb to March using these little
greenhouses and always have tomatos late April/May. I don't know why
these couldn't work for you during this season, too. You may want to
cover the tops on evenings during frost warnings.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mulness@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Every year I grow a number of tomato and
> pepper plants. All my plants now seem to
> have some leaves that are slightly curled
> and the whole plant does not have healthy
> green look. They blossom some and have tomatoes
> and peppers but are not growing to the size
> they should. We had a few white flies but not
> amount to my judgement would hurt any.Over
> the years we have mulched and fertilized so
> we have a very good soil base.
> We use a soaker hose watering system so they
> are watered well.
> I hope I have given you enough so you can
> come up with an answer.
>
> Thank You, Merv Ulness
> mulness@uswest.net
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:56:42 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 16:56:42 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Frost Protection
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
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I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that
will do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard.
Only in the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights
and extension cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I
grow) to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry
I couldn't resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the
horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or some
protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow
mine, besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer
anyway. I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh
seed or transplants in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
> I know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
> and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
> Brocoli? Leeks? I have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up
> against the south facing wall of my house. The lows where I live are
> often 10 to 12 degrees lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on
> the radio. The lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If
> the radio says 45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover
> the plants if it less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there
> was no frost on the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite
> frost when I go to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
I may not be the best respondent to your question, because I am not the
type of gardener who coddles my plants. I try to select material that will
do well at the particular time of year and/or area of the yard. Only in
the severest of conditions do I trot out the blankets, lights and extension
cords.
Based on personal experience I have never lost any cold season vegetable
(you specifically mention romaine, broccoli and leeks, all of which I grow)
to frost. During the coolest months, they simply 'veg out' (sorry I couldn't
resist) and resume growth when the sun begins its rise on the horizon.
Basil, however, is clearly a warm weather annual. South wall and/or
some protection is necessary to nurse the plant through winter to spring.
Frost damage is tell tale black leaves. Don't pick themoff in the
cooler months, as they will protect the ones underneath from additional
frost damage. However, I don't go to this trouble because in the second
year the plant becomes woody, loses its taste (and that's why I grow mine,
besides the landscape interest) and dies sometime the next summer anyway.
I keep my basil as long as I can, but always start with fresh seed or transplants
in spring. Likewise with tomatos.
I hope this answers your question.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Kerr Family wrote:
I
know frost tender is a relative term. How cold does it have to be,
and for how long to damage romaine lettuce? Basil? Tomato?
Brocoli? Leeks? I
have sucesfully kept tomatos alive, but dormant, up against the south facing
wall of my house. The lows where I live are often 10 to 12 degrees
lower than the official Sky Habor numbers on the radio. The
lowest temperature is usually just before dawn. If the radio says
45 or less, I check my outside thermometer, and cover the plants if it
less than 38. It is amazing to me how often there was no frost on
the car when I get the paper at 6 AM, but definite frost when I go
to work at 7AM.
--------------379BAB3EC9C179C6CD93C039--
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:19:06 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:19:06 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where tree
roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
wild.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> Thanks for the information.
>
> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> garlic plants.
>
> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
>
> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >
> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >
> >> arid_gardener
> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> how much?
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> Archives -
> >
> >
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:21:12 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:21:12 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Wintertime Container Tomatos
If the area is well protected, if there is a full day's worth of sun
(and block walls around the plants to retain heat during the cold
nights) I suspect it might work, although I personally have not had
success. March might be too soon to expect ripened fruit. Recognize that
here in the low desert, tomatos are grown in the warmer not cooler
vegetable season.
I just answered a similar question where I recommended a mini-hothouse
contraption called a wall'o'water. This is a 2/5 foot sleeve of plastic
that is placed around a plant and whose walls are made of cylinders that
you fill with water to create the hot house effect. These
are fairly big and may be too large for your containers.
I'm hoping one of our other container gardening experts has some better
advice for you.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
eandrcook@hotmail.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
> I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:22:59 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:22:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Cat Control (again!)
I've got another suggestion for you that I found while perusing my
gardening catalogs to creat my Christmas wish list. You might consider
experimenting with different predator urines to mark the perimeter of
your beds. Our website policy is to recommend several sources, but
unfortunately I could only find one in my library: Peaceful Valley Farm
Supply's 1999 Main Catalog (p.96) sells urine from fox, coyote and
bobcat; collected from domesticated farm-raised animals, too! (Gee, I
never considered a bobcat ranch before....) I wouldn't be surprised if
other organic farm suppliers carry similar products
There's a discussion of which predator works for which WILD garden
pests. They do not discuss domestic animal repellant, however. Maybe
someone at the company knows more (888-784-1722).
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:23:43 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:23:43 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Is Desert Landscaping Susceptible to Scorpion,Snake Infestation
I converted an old bermuda lawn to xeriscaping, with gravel and low
water use plants and have had no problems. In all my classes or reading
on the topic, I have not heard this raised as an
issue once. Indeed, in converting, I noted that other critters like
snails, cockroaches, etc. went elsewhere (the neighbors perhaps?) whose
yards were still lushly irrigated.
One note for you to consider: I live in an old, developed area of
central Phoenix. If you live in a new development on the outskirts,
where wildlife like snakes and scorpions are being
displaced by home and other building, you will likely see these. But it
will not, in my opinion, be because of the choice of landscaping.
Eventually, as a new neighborhood matures, the wildlife
abates.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
foxgray@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What are the disadvantages to having a desert landscape? We wanted to put rocks in our front yard, but someone told us that it brings scorpions, snakes and things like that. Is that true?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:31:28 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:31:28 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Drip Irriation Specifics
Since this is largely dependent on the type of plant material, may I suggest you peruse our Master Gardener Manual, Irrigation Section at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html
Overall, the Master Gardener Manual may also have other information that would be beneficial to your horticultural efforts. If the section in question does not address your specific needs, don't
hesitate to send us a detailed question again!
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
rknott@inficad.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a drip system (2 gal/hr) one setting for plants and one for a flower bed. Is there a watering guideline for how long, and how many days/week that I should water during the different seasons.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Ray Knott (Sun Lakes)
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:37:52 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:37:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Irrigating Mexican Fan Palms
According to our Publication Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ 1021) available online at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
established palm trees do well with slow irrigation to 2 feet deep every 2 to 3 weeks in
the growing season (same amount every 4 to 6 weeks in winter).
Hope this helps.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Tpjscarp@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> how much water does a mexican fan palm need in gallons per week or month 3 years old?
>
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From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:51:59 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 17:51:59 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Flower Removal from Gingko
The UofA's publication #Q375 Chemical Removal of Flowers on Olive and
Mulberry suggest a spray containing napthaleneacetic acid (NAA) or
strong streams of water during pollination season. Unfortunately, I do
not find a specific reference to ginkos; perhaps your favorite nursery
can advise you on this or another chemical. The Sunset Western Garden
Guide simply advises not to plant female trees, which advice is too late
for you now...
If you want a copy of the UofA publication, send $1 to
Home Horticulture Publications
University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
4341 E. Broadway Road
Phoenix, AZ 85040
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
tooldye@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a beautiful female gingko tree.
> Every year it produces more and more stinky
> fruits. Is there any way to reduce the amount
> of fruit this plant grows and proceeds to drop
> on my high traffic sidewalk? I've heard rumors
> of a sterilizer for fruit trees, would this
> work for the gingko?
> Would love some help!
> Kim in KC
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:05:14 -0700
Date: Sun, 12 Dec 1999 09:05:14 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] tomatoes in pots
Winter - 1997-8, I had nice tomatoes in pots. Cool weather slows plant
growth and frost can finish it, permanently. Pots tend to be warmer
than the soil and can be moved to shelter from winds or frost. I think
it is late to be trying but March is 3 months (90 days) away. How bad
would it be if you came close but failed? And you would know, next
year.
On Sat, 11 Dec 1999 20:02:19 -0700 (MST) eandrcook@hotmail.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>I am a snowbird, here until the end of March.
>I was wondering if it might be possible to grow tomatoes in large pots
>on a patio with a southern exposure, that would ripen before I return
>home. Any information would be appreciated. There is always next
>year to try something. Thank you for your time. Regards Rhoda
>
>
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:20:53 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:20:53 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Grapes
It is time for grape leaves to fall off the plant for their dormant
season. After this happens is a great time to prune and, or try to
propagate them. If you want to try cuttings, make sure the part
closest to the plant is in the soil with the other end pointed up. As
I cut these, I make the bottom straight and the tops slanted at a sharp
angle. Grapes make wonderful cooling shade! quickly. Do put the
cuttings where you want them to grow because they make lots of roots the
first year and are a nuisance to transplant if you didn't put them in 5
gallon pots. I have Thompson, Ruby and Flame, all seedless.
To help grapes go dormant near Phoenix, I stopped watering mine about
the first of November..... They do look pretty bad until the leaves
drop.
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 06:12:18 -0700 (MST) teacher@bmol.com writes:
>arid_gardener
>After a late rain, 99 % of our grape leaves turned purple-grey and
>were blighted. We can't figure out what caused that damage. We have
>Flame and Thompson varieties.
>
>
>
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From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:14:38 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 07:14:38 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreens for Tucson Area
Before planting my Aleppo and Bottlebrush, I talked to my neighbor and
she thought they would be nice in the place I later planted them (18 feet
south of her house and 9 feet north of mine and about 20 feet between
them)................... they were five gallon size. A year later she
came complaining that the two trees that had been discussed before
planting were going to shade her solar heater, 30 feet north and quite a
bit east of the trees, on the back of her house. I immediately stoped
watering both the Aleppo pine and Bottlebrush. I expected them to die.
It is now 4 years later. In the middle of the summer I collect
roof valley water and put most of it on the Aleppo. The tree has grown
very little and looks fragile but lives on. The bottle brush is about
6 feet tall and blooms.
In the low desert, more than anywhere else in our country, size is a
reflection of water. I would never chose this Aleppo for a Christmas
tree but it is amazing how well this little tree has done with so little
water. Neither tree has an irrigation nozzle within 25 feet of them.
There are no gutters on my house so they get a little extra rain from
the part of my hippish roof aimed in their direction, a triangular area,
perhaps 8 feet deep by 25 feet long.
Now my home is near Phoenix and Tucson is cooler and wetter than
Phoenix. It is very bad to water only one little area of a tree root
ball (roots will grow in that area and perhaps not at all on the other
side of the tree, making it very susceptible to blowing over if the wind
comes from that area where there are no roots.)
On Sun, 12 Dec 1999 15:18:06 -0700 "Linda A. Guy"
writes:
>arid_gardener
>Further to the excellent response you already received on suggested
>evergreens, I would like to add some information to the recommendation
>on Aleppo pine trees, particularly since you are looking for
>low-maintenance landscaping for your parent. In one of our
>Communicator issues, we discussed troubling trees. Aleppos grow to an
>IMMENSE size and placement is a key consideration. Next to a house
>could be an insurance issue, at least you will need the cost of
>services of an arborist to keep it well trimmed on a regular basis.
>Avoiding powerlines goes without say.
>
>It is a beautiful tree: I live in a neighborhood that is full of them.
>They remind me of huge billowing thunder clouds in our monsoon season.
>But I've seen the damage they can cause if poorly situated.
>
>Linda Guy
>Master Gardener
>
>earathbun@earthlink.net wrote:
>
>> arid_gardener
>> I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's
>landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation
>system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low
>maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any
>compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which
>he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually
>interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other
>deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus
>grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper?
>>
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>
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From azpiper@earthlink.net Mon, 13 Dec 1999 16:08:27 -0700
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 16:08:27 -0700
From: azpiper@earthlink.net azpiper@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] unscribe
Hi.
Please delete my name from your list.
Thanks.
From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:35:14 EST
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 18:35:14 EST
From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com
Subject: [AG] White Flies in Greenhouse
My lovely new greenhouse is finally safe from the squirrels but I have a
horrid infestation of white flies that love the balmy weather. Please advise
how to get rid of them and also do you suppose they have laid next years eggs
all over the place too? It is never going to get cold in there. I don't
want to use bud spray - I have lovely tomatoes ripening along with
cauliflower. Thx.
From efountain@access1.net Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST)
From: efountain@access1.net efountain@access1.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
Can you confirm?
Thanks,
Ellen Fountain
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:16:32 EST
Date: Mon, 13 Dec 1999 22:16:32 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Using softened water for irrigation
Ellen, You are correct. You must have a bypass around the water softener for
irrigation. The salt in the softened water will make short life of most
landscape plants.
Good luck. Rod
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:00:48 -0700
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:00:48 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Brittlebush
The 'brittleness' of your brittlebush is a function of water: I believe you
indicated that these were not being irrigated in any way other than rain fall.
Mine are on a system, hence the blooming and leaf color that is green with a
greyish cast, vs yours which are probably approaching white/grey with little
green. Simply the plants' respective reactions to environment.
The real reason for this response, however, is to share with you the Desert
Botanical Garden Hotline [480-941-1255], available M-F on a limited basis, I
believe from 10 to 11:30 am. They will surely be able to answer your questions
about amending soil for cactus since this is a particular area of expertise for
them.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Michael Goldstein wrote:
> I am surprised that your brittlebush is blooming now. Mine is showing no
> signs at all of new growth or flowering. It is just, well, brittle. My
> arms are scratched like I've tried to give an alley cat a bath. I think
> I'll try your method. Thanks for the help.
>
> At 05:19 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >My apologies, for not "sensing" that you were in need of my information an
> >hour sooner!! Actually, the pruning practice I was referring to was for the
> >late spring; in pruning the bushes now, you have certainly removed the lovely
> >little yellow flowers that will be with us through March. Not to worry, I'm
> >sure you'll receive at least one crop come February..... Again, if you want
> >the flowers, do not prune (except to dead head spent blossoms) at this time.
> >
> >If these are doing heartily as volunteers (another name for weeds, depending
> >on your point of view!) you probably won't need to irrigate them in the
> >summer. In doing so periodically, however, you CAN engage in the practice I
> >mentioned of cropping the bush to about 8" and having it grow back grey/green
> >(the less water, the more white/grey and dry/brittle it will appear) and
> >without the woodiness discussed in the previous answer.
> >
> >As to hills/valleys to perk up the landscape texture, lay out a few garden
> >hoses where you would like a few washes and berms. I suggest washes where
> tree
> >roots can eventually receive excess runoff collected here. I have one that
> >runs the length of my front yard and waters all my native species trees.
> >Although each tree is on the drip system, I rarely use it because of the wash
> >(of course, I irrigated well the FIRST year to establish and I'm watching
> >rainfall, heat, etc.). Once you've dug your wash(es), just use the dirt to
> >hill and mound in areas that you'd like. Consider those areas where
> >bikes/pedestrians might cross your yard in lieu of the sidewalk (we did this
> >because we are a corner lot), or raise other plant material to block a
> >neighbor's yard (we're not fond of the adjacent 'landscaping' shall we say!).
> >You get the idea. If you need more dirt, the classified ads carry fill....
> >
> >I will have to leave it to my colleagues to answer your question on soil
> >amendment for cactus. Just remember, not all cactus likes full sun; many need
> >the benefit of the filtered shade so often provided by native trees in the
> >wild.
> >
> >Good luck!
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >
> >
> >Michael Goldstein wrote:
> >
> >> Thanks for the information.
> >>
> >> Your timing is off by about a nanosecond. I have just come inside from
> >> hacking at the aforementioned (and quite aptly named) shrub. I did chop
> >> off about a third, more or less, during a profanity-laced interlude
> >> exacerbated by the fact that my dogs had decided to eat my two thriving
> >> garlic plants.
> >>
> >> The brittlebush grew quite unexpectedly a couple of years ago in a large
> >> rectangular bald area of my front yard where I have been growing
> >> wildflowers in the spring. I have dreams of turning this patch of dirt
> >> into a desert landscape. If I were to plant cactus, would I need to
> >> install a drip irrigation system for it? Would I need to change the soil
> >> at the spots the cacti were planted? Also, how can I add little hills and
> >> valleys that seem to add interest to a landscape?
> >>
> >> At 04:09 PM 12/12/1999 -0700, you wrote:
> >> >I have a number of specimens in my xeriscaped front yard and have
> >> >experimented with the volume pruned, but always take away a sizeable
> >> >amount (at least a third as my colleague recommended). In a class on
> >> >desert landscaping which I took at DBG from Ron Dinchak, (also an
> >> >instructor at MCC) I learned that you can prune most of the way back in
> >> >April/May and get a lush soft regrowth in the summer with some
> >> >irrigation. This takes care of the woody stems that can quickly develop.
> >> >It also leaves me with very reasonably sized, not leggy plants.
> >> >
> >> >During the flowering season (which is just beginning in my central
> >> >Phoenix yard), I dead head the flowering tops monthly, just because I
> >> >like a cleaner look. It's not necessary, though.
> >> >
> >> >Good luck,
> >> >Linda Guy
> >> >Master Gardener
> >> >
> >> >mr_mike@bigfoot.com wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> arid_gardener
> >> >> The plant commonly known as Brittlebush;
> >> >> should it be pruned back? If so, when and
> >> >> how much?
> >> >>
> >> >> _______________________________________________
> >> >> Arid_gardener mailing list
> >> >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >> >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> >> >> Archives -
> >> >
> >> >
> >
> >
> Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend.
> Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. - Groucho Marx
From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:05:41 -0700
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 07:05:41 -0700
From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Softened water
The water goes into my home in the front next to an exterior water
outlet. This water outlet, in the front is before the water entry to
the home. The entry on the exterior back wall is after entry to my
home. I know this because when I turn off the valve on the pipe below
the front faucet, everything except that front faucet has no water.
The irrigation system is also connected before entry into the home.
Your plumber wants to avoid the expense and work of 2 pipe lines under
your home........ and perhaps you would too.
You can install a cheaper plastic pipeline around the perimeter of your
home and enjoy having unsoftened water for your plants. It is my
opinion that our soil has enough salts already without adding various
other chemicals.
And the cost of softening water is dear in addition to thinking about the
environmental danger.
On Mon, 13 Dec 1999 10:53:20 -0700 (MST) efountain@access1.net writes:
>arid_gardener
>We are in the planning stages for building a new home in the Tucson
>Mountains on near Sweetwater and Camino de Oeste. The builder will put
>in plumbing connections for a soft water system inside the house. I
>asked him about separate plumbing for the outside hose bibs and he
>said that potassium softened water doesn't hurt plants, and that you
>can water with it. I think he is wrong, and that you should not use
>softened water for watering plants, either indoors or outdoors.
>Can you confirm?
>Thanks,
>Ellen Fountain
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives -
From gaye.luna@nau.edu Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:10:29 -0700 (MST)
From: gaye.luna@nau.edu gaye.luna@nau.edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I live in Surprise and am new to desert vegetation. I am wondering how long (times/week) and how much (minutes) I should water the following yard scrubbery during the winter months:
(1) Evergreen Elms (5 years old)
(2) Lantana (5 years old)
(3) Bankor Red Bouganvilla (planted 1 1/2 months ago)
(4) Rose bushes (5 years old)
They are all on the same drip system, unfortunately, so would need some advice on times and length to accommodate all these plants.
Thank you,
From ppiercy@primenet.com Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 14:14:12 -0700 (MST)
From: ppiercy@primenet.com ppiercy@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am looking for a list of flowers and vegtables that grow in the Phoenix area. The types of things I am looking for: ex. What type of pumpkins, squash, etc that grow here. Thank you.
From jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:44:01 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 08:44:01 -0700 (MST)
From: jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net jimsimpsoncpa@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
After a light frost, what is the best method to rcover a vegetable garden? E.G., water immediately to melt light frost, wait for the sun to warm, space heater?
Thx, Jim
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:10:50 -0700
Date: Wed, 15 Dec 1999 10:10:50 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Free Lemon Booklets
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Arizona Grown has a booklet available this month titled "150 Ways to Use
Lemons"
from Sunkist. Callers will also receive this month's list of fruits and
vegetables being harvested in Arizona. Call: 888-PICKED-4-U (888-742-5334).
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
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Arizona Grown has a booklet available this