From cbi64@webtv.net Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 From: Barbara Isaac by way of Lucy Bradley cbi64@webtv.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] help i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for 15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a 16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. thanx From cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:15:41 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:15:41 -0700 From: Carolyn Chard cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Howdy from the Desert Rat! Rose & tulip, lemon & lime, I can't think how to finish this rhyme! Carolyn H. Chard cchard@ag.arizona.edu "You make a living by what you get; you make a life by what you give." From mike.todd@asu.edu Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Barbara, We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) to Texas Root Rot*: Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) Hope this helps. *From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp 103-104. >Message: 1 >Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >Subject: [Arid_gardener] help > >i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >thanx Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS Please reply to these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS Please reply to each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? thank you. r2beshon@AL.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700 Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Mike Todd I think you could have a couple of things going on with this bottle tree (I'm assuming that this is the Australian Bottle Tree - Brachychiton populneus) that is so commonly planted in the metro-Phoenix area. Texas Root Rot is quite common with these trees, but generally the leaves seem to die almost overnite and stick on the tree, rather than changing color and falling off - and the younger leaves at the branch tips should be dead also for Texas Root Rot. These trees are generally partially deciduous, meaning that periodically they will shed many of their older leaves and then flush out with fresh leaves. Sometimes this is a seasonal response and sometimes a response to stress - heat, lack of water, disease, salt, etc. The individual tree response varies greatly from clone to clone. If the tree looks healthy otherwise, has retained some of its older leaves and the branch ends all have new leaves emerging, then it is probably this response, rather than root rot. If you choose to keep this tree and help ot recover, rather than replacing at this time with a more root rot tolerant species, then I would also like to suggest that you need to change your watering pattern to help the tree recover and continue to grow healthy. Many people place the bubblers/drippers at the base of the young tree when forst planted and then do not move and adjust them outwards as the tree matures. For a 5 year old tree, your water source should be out at the drip line of the tree, not near the base. Moving the drippers/bubblers out to the area on the ground that is directly under the outer edge of the leaf canopy will make for a far healthier tree as that is where the tree's feeder and water absorbing roots are located. Watering too near the trunk can promote disease and also make for a shallow root system that is more prone to stress. Also, you need to adjust your watering schedule to take into account the fact that the tree is more mature now. You are currently wateriing your tree too often, and for way too short a period each time - too frequent and short of waterings will lead to a shallow, stress prone root system, along with accumulating salts in the root zone. You should be watering the tree for much longer at a time, but watering far fewer times since it is now 5 years old and considered a mature tree. By watering for a longer period, the water will soak in far deeper and help to flush accumulated salts out of the root zone. With this deeper watering schedule, you can probably cut back your watering to once every 2 or 3 weeks. Specific information on suggested tree watering schedules will depend on how much water your bubbler/drip system puts out over a set period of time. Details on this are available from your city's water conservation office, as well as on the University of Arizona website. Hope that this is helpful Mike Hills Maricopa County Master Gardener Volunteer *********************************** From: Michael Todd To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: cbi64@webtv.net Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves >arid_gardener >Barbara, > >We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. >In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends >to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be >susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about >what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root >Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider >planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for >years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) >to Texas Root Rot*: > >Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) >Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) >Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) >Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) >Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) >Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) >Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) >Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) > >Hope this helps. > >*From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain >a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp >103-104. ******************************************> >>Message: 1 >>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >>) >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] help >> >>i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >>leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >>base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >>then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >>leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >>15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >>rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >>16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >>i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >>thanx > >Mike Todd >Graduate Research Associate > >Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 >Arizona State University | Arizona State University West >PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 >Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 > >E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu >ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 >ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS (Sow- or Pillbugs) Sowbugs/pillbugs are found in very damp, shaded areas feeding on dying or decaying vegetation. Refer to the entomology section of the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/relatives.html I have not known this critter to eat roots, however. Since they are attracted to moisture, could you be overwatering, resulting in roots rotting while attracting these rolypolys? I have known them to feed on small transplants, but this was vegetative, not root. Perhaps you've another issue? Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there > something i > can put in the soil to eradicate them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care for Ponytail Palm [Beaucarnea recurvata] You've wisely chosen a southern/western indoors' exposure for a plant that likes plenty of good lighting. I've not had personal experience with this as an outdoor plant, but the Sunset Western Garden Book (page 180) suggests that it is viable outside in our zone. I'd watch carefully for the amount of summer sun, however. In my personal experience, the single most important factor is your watering practice. This plant will like to be deeply watered, but infrequently; drying out between waterings will be important. I drowned my last ponytail! Make sure run-off drains into a saucer and that it is not reabsorbed back into the root ball, carrying back any salts that the first watering leached from the container's soil. Tips on the end of foliage can mean lack of water, but overwatering or poor drainage are also likely candidates. Use a soil probe to check for the moisture of the root ball. The plant could also have been overfertilized (meaning heavy salt content); of course lack of fertilization could also be a factor. I normally stop fertilizing houseplants until spring growth recommences. My personal practice and the recommendation of our Indoor Plant Selection and Care publication #8828 is to trim brown leaf tips and margins following the shape of the leaf. I am not aware of specific advice to the contrary for Ponytails. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener jbh@azstarnet.com wrote: > How often should I water a ponytail palm? It is in a room that gets southern and western light. > It is about 4-5 ft tall and has several branches coming out of the main trunk. i got it at an estate sale and it has a lot of browning on the tips. > What can be done for that? I read you are not supposed to cut off the brown parts. > Thanks for your advice From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:32:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:32:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Citrus and Bougainvillea in Quartsite Mr. and Mrs. Goff, First, permit me to suggest that your county's Cooperative Extension office may be a better source of information for your particular area of Arizona. The only online publication we have is AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus When you get to this index of the Home Horticulture website you will also notice some other publications that can be ordered by mail at $1 each from: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 602/470-8086 (ext 301) There used to be an old U of A citrus publication 8464 called Citrus Trees in the Home Garden that covered most growing topics including fertilizing, watering, pruning, frost protections etc. You can ask about it at the phone number above. But your own Extension Office might just as well have it. As to bougainvilleas, most thrive on a bit of neglect. Indeed, the colorful bracts which are not a true flower, are most profuse when the plant is feeling a bit stressed for water. Overwatering will generate lush green vegetation. I have never had the need to fertilize mine in the past. Wait until danger of frost passes in the spring time to trim damage from cold temps. I hope this is helpful to you. Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener NollieR@redrivernet.com wrote: > We are looking for information on growing citrus trees & bougainvillea in Quartzsite AZ. Can you give us some tips and/or reading material. On line if possible. Thank you. Doris & Ray Goff. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape software Hi Manfred, There is a review of several landscaping programs in the National Home Gardening Club Magazine for Nov/Dec. I'll list them below starting with the one that appears to give you the most flexibility. Complete Land Designer v. 5.0 (Sierra) price $50.00 Burpee 3D Garden Designer (Heat Zone Edition) Price $30 Expert Landscape Design 3D v. 5 price $12.00 Imagine Your Landscape (Adex) price $50.00 Planix Landscape (Autodesk) Price $20 If you do not have access to this magazine and are interested in more information about one of these I can type in the information given. If you are in the local Phoenix area and have access to a fax machine I could also fax the entire page to you. There is also a CD called Desert Landscaping but out by the Water Resources Research Center. You can probably locate it most easily at the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway, Tempe, AZ JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time, helspermc@mindspring.com writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: helspermc@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I am looking for software packages that will allow me to design landscaping ,inclusive of the usage of desert plants and cacti. The software should draw plans and produce a list of items used with associated costs. Pls. let me know of your recommendations and sources for aquisition. Thanks, Manfred Helsper >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:50:31 EST Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:50:31 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hibiscus Hi, Probably the best reference I can give you is the address for a Hibiscus Society. It is located in Florida but they are willing to answer questions from AZ. Very friendly people. They also publish a Hibiscus Handbook. I've sent for the book but it hasn't arrived as yet. The address is http:\\ww.trop-hibiscus.com In a message dated 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time, BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I need information or tips on how to get a big, beautiful tropical hibiscus to produce more blooms along with its great foliage- I feed it Miracid and diluted vinegar (roots only!) once a month. Thank you! >> From GailThiele@aol.com Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:01:21 EST Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:01:21 EST From: GailThiele@aol.com GailThiele@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] care and feeding of certain plants The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. Thanks. Gail A. Thiele gailthiele@aol.com From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Houseplants Check out the University of Arizona Publication on House plants It is in PDF format so you will need acrobat reader to open. For instructions on how to download a free copy see Yes moisture meters can give accurate indication of moisture present and it would not be unusual to have the top of the pot dry out prior to the bottom of the pot and so get different readings at different levels in your pot. Moisture will evaporate off the top and gravity will pull it to the bottom. Good luck with your house plants! At 06:01 PM 11/03/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help >in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena >J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf >ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that >has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need >some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, >misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you >could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how >to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or >what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These >plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there >a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden >Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a >moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the >moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. >Thanks. >Gail A. Thiele >gailthiele@aol.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:03:27 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:03:27 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ta Dah!!!! Searchable Archives Look what Paul Sarando, computer guru for the University of Arizona, has done for us!!! He has created a search engine on the archives page that will search not only our new archives that we created when we moved to the mailman system, but also the old system which was on Majordomo. This means that you can go to the archives, type in what you are interested in and it searches both archives (not just the subject line, the whole message) so it will find all the previous messages on a particular topic!!! Check it out!!! How Cool is That!! Many, Many, Thanks to Paul for making the archives a functional tool for us!!! Lucy Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From mpinckard@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700 From: Michelle Pinckard mpinckard@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden To Whom It May Concern: I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: Green beans Broccoli Carrots Cerely Cauliflower Endive Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas Radishes I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as layout? Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of these? Please respond at your earliest convenience. From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:59:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:33:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:33:41 -0700 (MST) From: BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have a Great Thursday! Test Message From Azgopher@juno.com Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST) From: Azgopher@juno.com Azgopher@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden Michelle Pinckard on Thursday, November 04, 1999 9:14 AM wrote: > ... > I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice > on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: > > Green beans Broccoli Carrots > Cerely Cauliflower Endive > Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas > Radishes > > I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as > layout? > Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of > these? I would us a modified "Square Foot Garden" layout. You could block out 9 3-foot square beds with 18 inches walkways between them. Or 4 5-foot squares or some other convenient combination. See http://members.primary.net/~silvest/garden/spacing.html for recommended sqft plant spacings and other ideas for your garden layout. Note that many sqft gardens are in raised beds for various reasons but it isn't really necessary to make raised beds. Unless you plan to use plastic tunnels forget about planting green beans until mid March. They need warm soil and it is already too cool to grow beans out in the open. And there isn't time to make a crop before frost. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for the vegetable planting schedule for Maricopa county. Most broccoli types produce fairly well. You will usually get only 1 large head but the side shoots are just as tasty and will produce over a long period if you harvest them before the yellow blossoms appear. Look for a type with a short time to maturity. Green Comet and Packman are my personal favorites because of prolific side shoot production but there are many others. I would suggest buying transplants for both broccoli and cauliflower - faster than seed at this late date. When buying transplants, your choices are pretty limited. Self blanching cauliflower is pretty popular but the regular old-fashioned types seem to be hardier. You might want to begin with a short carrot like Short-n-Sweet or Thumbelina if you have tight clay soil. I usually grow a Nantes type because it is more cylindrical with very little taper. Can't recommend any celery types - it hasn't been successful for me. Black Seeded Simpson is a bland flavored, light green lettuce which grows well here and is a pretty good substitute for iceberg lettuce. It is pretty widely available. You can often get 3-4 shearings from it before it starts to become bitter. Many of the other old standbys like oak-leaf and salad bowl are more flavorful. I'd suggest trying a leaf lettuce mix or a Mesclun mix to see what works best for you. For radishes, I would also suggest starting with a mix - something like cherry belle, French breakfast, icicle, champion, etc to see which works best for you. Any of the curly endives should do okay - it's pretty hardy. Green onions can be grown pretty rapidly using the generic sets available now in most garden center. For peas, we usually grow Wando it can get pretty rangy. Little Marvel,a short bush type, is also a good choice. You might also want to try "sugar snap peas". You don't need to shell them - one eats the entire pod. Good Luck! Olin Miller http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jerusalem artichoke planting dates/AZ On Thursday, November 04, 1999 6:51 PM, Toni L. Allen wrote: > .... We're getting conflicting info about when to plant them here in central AZ. When?? Can we plant now. If we don't plant now, how do we store them until planting. > ... Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers in May. They need warm weather. You might try storing in a refrigerator. -Olin Miller From cmuller2000@earthlink.com Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST) From: cmuller2000@earthlink.com cmuller2000@earthlink.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I irrigate my lawn every 2 weeks (6-8 in). Should I continue this throughout the winter? From PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST) From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. > ... I have heard diatomaceous earth works but have never tried it yself. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... > each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? > ... Reccomended planting date for fall tomatoes is from July15 to August 15 according to the schedule at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf. Can't help with the other questions. Sorry. -Olin Miller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 Nov 1999 22:06:07 EST Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 22:06:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf: Winter watering All plants require much less water in the winter ; a rule of thumb is 1/2 the summer requirements. The newspapers on the weather page list the amount of water required to keep turf healthy, which varies throughout the year. Check outt the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf care at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From ecard10331@aol.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST) From: ecard10331@aol.com ecard10331@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently had two Chilean Mesquite Trees planted in our yard. During planting the Drip system was damaged and both trees were excessively watered for some time before we realized what had happened and repaired the damage. Now both trees are shedding their leaves. Are these trees dying? Can we salvage them? They have been in one month and the problem was solved after about two weeks. How often should we water these trees and for how long? they are beautiful trees and we would hate to lose them. Thanks in advance for your advice. Ed Cardinal From kallaz@gte.net Sat, 06 Nov 1999 11:42:06 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 11:42:06 -0700 From: kevin@linda ahern kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] I cannot get connected to your question line. What are the huge white slimy caterpillars that are now in my unsuccessful vegetable garden soil? Did they come from my compost pile? From kallaz@gte.net Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST) From: kallaz@gte.net kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx From uitti@primenet.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST) From: uitti@primenet.com uitti@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti From scottwlee@hotmail.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST) From: scottwlee@hotmail.com scottwlee@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! From deniseorjohn@home.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys acaulis (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:29:27 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:29:27 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf recommendation for Thatcher, Az. Scott, I would recommend that you check with your county extension office. If I knew your elevation and climate zone I would be in a better position to help. Your county agent should be able to help you. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 18:14:06 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 18:14:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Over watered Mesquite trees Ed It is typical of trees that are under stress to drop their leaves and being overwatered for two weeks might be enough to cause stress. Hopefully yours will not be lost. My guess is that your trees should be ok. I doubt that your trees have established much root growth yet and especially with the over watering. When the tree was planted did anyone check to make sure that you had good drainage from the planting hole? The planting hole filled with water should drain overnight. If it doesn't it is not a fit place to plant a tree. A small hole dug down to the depth of the root ball at the edge of the root ball should tell you the current moisture situation. An experienced person can determine the same thing by inserting a steel probe; the probe will go easily to the depth that the water has penetrated. This is also a great way to determine if the irrigation water has penetrated to the proper depth. If the tree has not been watered in two weeks it should need water now unless your soil is not draining well. Deep watering every two to three weeks during the winter should be adequate. The root ball on a newly planted tree dries out much faster than the surrounding soil and should be monitored until the roots have penetrated into the surrounding soil. I would be glad to hear from you as to how your trees do. Good luck. Rod Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From seklug@earthlink.net Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST) From: seklug@earthlink.net seklug@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and knowledgeable tree trimmer. Would it be best to find someone who is a certified arborist. Other than taking my chances with the yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make a recommendation? From Codiedale@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:21:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:21:01 -0700 (MST) From: Codiedale@aol.com Codiedale@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:20 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:20 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Certified Arborist Listing The following website will have a list of Certified Arborists in your area: http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~isa/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod From tacman7@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST) From: tacman7@aol.com tacman7@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. From plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700 From: Barry L. Bequette plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Horticulture Conference] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -- Barry L. Bequette, Ph.D. University of Arizona County Extension Director, Yuma County 2200 West 28th Street, Suite 102 Yuma, AZ 85364-6928 Phone: (520) 726-3904 Fax: (520) 726-8472 Mobile: (520) 210-1663 email: plantdoc@ag.arizona.edu --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from smtp04.primenet.com (smtp04.primenet.com [206.165.6.134]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id IAA05038 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:36:20 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp04.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id IAA14561 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:35:40 -0700 (MST) Received: from ip-19-208.yum.primenet.com(207.218.19.208), claiming to be "blakelyr" via SMTP by smtp04.primenet.com, id smtpdAAAloaOmC; Mon Nov 8 08:35:23 1999 Message-ID: <000c01bf29fd$c53039c0$0c00060a@blakelyr> From: "Roger Blakeley" To: Subject: Horticulture Conference Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:27:10 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yuma's Home and Garden Horticulture Conference Agenda: 7:30 a.m. - 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments 8:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry Mikel U of = A Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona. 9:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike Matheron = U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 10:30 a.m. - 10:45 a.m. Break 10:45 a.m. - 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A Cooperative = Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 11:45 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle 12:30 p.m. - 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. David = Kerns U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 1:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona. 2:30 p.m. - 2:35 p.m. Break 2:35 p.m. - 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City of Yuma = Parks & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona. Date: February 12, 2000 Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. 28th Street. Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up $10.00 at the door. R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension Office 2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona 726-3904 Raffle On Garden Items 8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yuma’s Home and Garden Horticulture Conference

Agenda:

7:30 a.m. – 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments

8:30 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry = Mikel U of A=20 Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona.

9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike = Matheron U of=20 A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

10:30 a.m. – 10:45 a.m. Break

10:45 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle

12:30 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. = David Kerns U=20 of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

1:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona.

2:30 p.m. – 2:35 p.m. Break

2:35 p.m. – 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City = of Yuma Parks=20 & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona.

Date: February 12, 2000

Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. = 28th=20 Street.

Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up

$10.00 at the door.

R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension = Office

2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona

726-3904

Raffle On Garden Items

8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered!

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00-- --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C-- From solson@asu.edu Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST) From: solson@asu.edu solson@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? From yiayia1@prodigy.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) From: yiayia1@prodigy.net yiayia1@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with no other information available. We have not been able to find out what this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? From mike.todd@asu.edu Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sapphire Dragon Tree Here are the URLs for a couple of websites that could be of some use: http://www.paulownia.org/bibliography.html http://www.sapphire-dragon.com/ Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 9 >Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) >From: yiayia1@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with >no other information available. We have not been able to find out what >this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Hi, In areas with caliche, the addition of soil sulfur and organic matter to the backfill will help to break down the caliche and release nutrients to the plants. Although it is often recommended gypsum should not be used because it is ineffective in caliche or calcified soils. Plants properly suited to the local soils will perform well with native soil as the backfill. I have several friends that planted their bougainvillea into the native clay soil we have in our neighborhood, with no amendments. I have mine in a pot filled with potting soil. All seem to be doing fine so they must have a wide range of tolerance. I find no specific information as to plant depth but the usual is to guide by the potted plant itself. It should not be planted deeper then it is in the pot. In a message dated 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado Tree Hi, Probably your best bet for an answer to your avocado question is to contact Dick Gross. rkg144@worlnet.att.net He is the secretary of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers. This group has the best information for growing semi tropical plants in the valley. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunter, Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time, aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From reesaviary@cs.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST) From: reesaviary@cs.com reesaviary@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when do you pick the olives to be canned and how to can green and black olives? From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From maxcel@swlink.net Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small compost pile in my backyard that I started earlier this year. It has a large number of ants in it, but it also has worms that we can't identify. When I saw them a couple of weeks ago, they looked like they were about an inch long and very pale. I thought they might be some type of grub. Any idea what these might be and if they are OK for my compost? From Phgeditors@aol.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:07:47 EST Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:07:47 EST From: Phgeditors@aol.com Phgeditors@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. From DorrineM@AOL.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST) From: DorrineM@AOL.com DorrineM@AOL.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? From dmaceachern@energes.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST) From: dmaceachern@energes.com dmaceachern@energes.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) I have a question on how to trim/prune two trees I have in my front yard. They were new and planted in May. I believe they are members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled in width & height. I want to trim them back in width so they are not interfering with the sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. Is there a web site page you could direct me to that either explains or illustrates the proper method. I am new to the area and want to ensure I do not damage the plant. Thank You. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Pruning Trees You can visit the following page from the Master Gardener manual for great information on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer dmaceachern@energes.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) > > I have a question on how to trim/prune > two trees I have in my front yard. They were > new and planted in May. I believe they are > members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled > in width & height. I want to trim them back in > width so they are not interfering with the > sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. > > Is there a web site page you could direct me to > that either explains or illustrates the > proper method. I am new to the area and want > to ensure I do not damage the plant. > > Thank You. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:50:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:50:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Rabbits in the Garden Dorrine: I have a few ideas that MIGHT help you. In a book I have called, "A Miscellany of Garden Wisdom" (its a collection of homespun, old time knowledge) it is mentioned that a liberal planting of Foxglove will keep rabbits away. If you like foxglove, it might be worth a try. It also mentioned onions. I use a product called Repel which I purchase at nurseries. I use it to keep cats from using my flower bed as a litter box. It works well for that. The container lists Rabbits as well. Always follow the instructions on the container. Chicken wire fencing is one of the most effective ways to keep rabbits out. You can also visit the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html This is a new section of the on-line Master Gardener manual, which may give you some suggestions. Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer DorrineM@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? > We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm and other tree care Queen Palms are not native to nor are they well adapted to our low desert, and because of this they are not long lived. It is not a tree that one can plant and forget. It must be watered and fertilized properly. Granular fertilizer uniformly spread on the ground at the drip line of the tree, whether palm or other tree, and watered in well will provide a more uniform fertilization than other methods. Fertilization by injection could be a viable way to correct a nutrient dificiency or for a special situation. Fertilizer spikes will provide the tree with a uniform nutrient release which you won't have with the surface application. A combination of the spikes with the surface application will work well provided the reccommended rate is not exceeded. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide quite commonly used on many applications in the garden and landscape. One of its applications is to treat bud rot on palms. Alliette, a more costly fungicide, appears to be targeted toward a specific fungi. Sorry but I don't have available a chemical make up of Alliette. If it is important to you I could research it. The Evergreen Elm is quite susceptable to Texas Root Rot. One way to minimise the chances of Texas Root Rot is not to over water. Periodic applications of soil sulfur will help to lower the soil pH which is also helpful. But most of all INCREASE the irrigation interval in fall, and more in winter. Each time you water, DEEP WATER. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello Scott in Thatcher If I am reading my map correctly, you are at about 3,000 foot elevation which gives you more options for turfgrass than us low desert gardeners. You may want to double check with your local county extension agent for their local recommendations for turfgrass in your area. You should be able to grow a Turf Tall Fescue lawn which would be "softer" than bermuda, and will also remain green year round. You should plant this grass seed in the early-mid Fall or in early spring. A Fall planting will be better to allow the fescue plants to establish a strong root system before next summer's heat returns. Deep, infrequent watering will make the grass healthier. This grass species does require more water than bermuda, but once your stand is a couple of years old, it will have a deep root system. Mowing height is recommended at 2-3 inches, and this grass species is fairly tolerant of shade if you have older trees. Plant 6-8 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet of turf area (DO NOT plant more than this rate - too many seedlings crowding each other will promote disease). Your local garden centers and nurseries should have detailed information for you on planting and care of this turfgrass species. There are many different varieties and brand names available, just make sure that the seed package label says the words "Turf Tall Fescue" somewhere on it. Good Luck Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Research Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ******************************************* -----Original Message----- From: scottwlee@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Just a brief note from my personal experience. 1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate better & faster. 2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. 3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they eat them. 4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in the spring from the trunk and main branches mike hills - maricopa county master gardener **************************************. -----Original Message----- From: Codiedale@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit repellent plants Dorrine - you might try planting some YARROW plants. This is a herb that looks a lot like a fern, and comes in many different bloom colors - grows very well here in the Valley. Readily available at local nurseries and garden centers this time of year. The flowers can be dried and used in crafts and flower arrangements. According to many members of the Arizona Herb Association who grow this plant, the pungent smell of the leaves is not pleasing to rabbits so they usually avoid eating these. Some members recommend planting these yarrow plants along the front or outer edge of the flower beds so the rabbits hit them first and are hopefully turned aside. I am surprised that they ate your lantana. Next spring you may want to try planting larger size lantana plants so that they have a better start and can then keep up enough growth to get ahead of the animal munching. I have also had people recommend several different items below to use as rabbit repellents, HOWEVER, please be aware that in very dry years with little in the desert to eat, the rabbits and other desert dwellers will come into your yard anyway once they get hungry enough. Blood Meal or Bone Meal sprinkled around the garden beds - available at nurseries. Human, Cat or Dog hair tied up in little muslin or cheesecloth bags and hung in your shrubs and bushes - the odor of "predator" is supposed to keep rabbits away. Cat litterbox cleanout (cat dung) scattered around the edge of your property is sometimes effective in repelling the rabbits into other people's yards (again due to the potential cat predator threat) Moth Balls - available at drugstores - scattered around in the foliage or along the edge of your property where you think the animals are netering. Not on any human edible plants and please be aware that the smell that helps keep the rabbits away is also not pleasant for people. Commercial spray and powder products to repell pests can be purchased at your garden center, hardware store or nursery and do sometimes work (example: "Ropell"). You may also want to contact the Desert Botanical Garden and The Arizona Game & Fish office - both have helpful publications on this topic. Mike Hills - Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County ****************************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: DorrineM@AOL.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? >We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Castor Beans >arid_gardener >Just a brief note from my personal experience. > >1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - >fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate >better & faster. > >2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does >need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. > >3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a >plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they >eat them. > >4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in >the spring from the trunk and main branches > > >mike hills - maricopa county master gardener >**************************************. >-----Original Message----- >From: Codiedale@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been >attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >>on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the >conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral >information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other >information you my have would be great too. >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dybegay@amug.org Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST) From: dybegay@amug.org dybegay@amug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and where I can find frost dates. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market. This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself. (NO brokers please) If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start. Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market.  This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself.  (NO brokers please)

If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start.  Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT-- From ed-gayle@home.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: ed-gayle@home.com ed-gayle@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:05:26 EST Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:05:26 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an ornamental pomegranate tree and it never gets any fruit on it. It is grown for the blooms. Val From maxcel@swlink.net Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a hibiscus in my backyard that I planted last fall. Towards the end of this summer it finally started growing! It has put on about 1 1/2 - 2 feet of growth. Now I am wondering when and how much I should cut it back so that it won't get leggy. Also, it hasn't flowered in a long time. When can I expect to see some flowers? Thanks, Celestine From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:44:01 EST Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:44:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus: with vegetative growth and no blooms Celestine, You can prune back your hibiscus about 1/3 next spring after the danger of frost is past. Too much nitrogen fertilizer would cause a lot of vegetative growth and few blossoms. I would suggest that you use a balanced fertilizer. Good luck. Rod From gretchen@hpiug.org Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST) From: gretchen@hpiug.org gretchen@hpiug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there an inexpensive but reliable way to water is of my houseplants while away on an extended vacation (2 months) ? I have found some wick devices that last two weeks. From valpogrl@aol.com Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST) From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I am having problems with my roses generally this fall, the worst is a "Paradise" rose, about 10 years old. Alot of the leaves have turned yellow and then fallen, I haven't seen any black spot however. BUT, the stems are turning purple, though they don't seem swollen, just purple. Black spot? Vitamin defiency? Any ideas? Thanks, Cindy From mikesmower@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 06:33:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 06:33:33 -0700 (MST) From: mikesmower@aol.com mikesmower@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be appreciated. thanx tim From saturn1066@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:08:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:08:24 -0700 (MST) From: saturn1066@aol.com saturn1066@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The leafs and branches of my oleander are beginning to try drwon and yellow and dry. Many of the branches are now nothing but dry, brittle dead wood. It doesn't appear to be the oleander gall described in the index. Although perhaps it is. Would welcome your recommendation..Please advise.. From asinger@prodigy.net Sat, 13 Nov 1999 13:25:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 13:25:02 -0700 (MST) From: asinger@prodigy.net asinger@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:45:23 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:45:23 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] First and Last Frost Dates for the Valley of the Sun Check out our web page on Frost in the Valley for information on First and Last Frost in the Valley and Frost and Growing Season Data For other weather related information see Lucy At 03:41 PM 11/10/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and >where I can find frost dates. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:04:00 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:04:00 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Hi, Slugs need moisture so I'd say under your plastic pots is an excellent daytime hiding place for them. I believe they come out at night to feed on your very delicious plants. I'd start some of the procedures for eliminating them if they are doing damage. Sunset's Western Garden Problem Solver has a list of things to do. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, Phgeditors@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: Phgeditors@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:03:50 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:03:50 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Succulents Hi Fran, There is a CD called Desert Landscaping that has information on all the plants you listed with pictures. I got my copy from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 East Broadway Tempe, AZ for a cost of $25.00 I have an address in my notebook that says photo's you might check. It is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm I've not tried this address myself as yet. Hope this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time, asinger@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: asinger@prodigy.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran >> From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:58:26 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:58:26 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Snails and Slugs tend to hibernate in cool weather, but we haven't had any yet so they are still out and about and active. You may be seeing more of them because we have had such a dry fall they are coming up to your potted plants that are watered. They tend to go to sheltered places during the day so they may be living under the pots during the day. Natural populations tend to cycle, this seem to be a banner year for slugs. For more information on Snails and Slugs see Lucy At 01:07 PM 11/09/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones >with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping >stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:51:22 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:51:22 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olives Hi, We have a number of answers to questions on Olives in the Arid_Gardener archives. I've copied/pasted one of these letters. One way to reach the archives is the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html There is now a better way to cruise the hundred's of letters but I can't find that info at the moment. I scrolled to the O's and found several under the heading of Olives. Hopefully others will give you more information. Re: Olives Art Tarsha (stack@goodnet.com) Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:41:55 -0700 Hi All, Since I got a few requests for this recipe, I decided to just post it to the list. Brined Greek-Style Olives Always use mature, full colored, yet still firm fruit. (dark reddish/purple). Harvest before frost and throw out any bruised or soft olives. They will fade in color and soften up during curing. Wash and stem the olives. 1. Place cleaned and sorted olives in 1 quart or larger glass jars. 2. Cover with a brine containing 8 oz. of salt per gallon of water. Use a little saucer and weight or other rigging to keep the olives submerged in the liquid. Fasten the lid on loosely. 3. After one week, replace the original brine with a stronger brine of 1 lb of salt per gallon of water, again leaving covers loose. 4. After 2 more weeks, replace the brine with a new brine of the same solution, 1 lb salt per gallon of water and seat the covers firmly. If pressure forms, carefully loosen the cover to release the gas, then close again firmly. 5. If during this time, a mold or scum forms on the top of the liquid, skim it off and replace the brine. Keeping the olives submerged in the brine should keep this from happening. 6. After 6 weeks to 2 months of total curing time, you can taste your olives to see if enough bitterness has been leached out to make them edible. Since tastes are different, you may cure them for a bit less or a bit more time to get the result you like. These will be VERY salty straight from the brine. You can soak a few test olives in clear water in the refrigerator for a day before tasting if you prefer. Remember that any olives you desalt by soaking in clear water must be refrigerated. The salt is what is preserving them. 7. When they've been cured to your taste, drain brine and rinse olives. Put them back in clean quart glass jars, packing in 3 or 4 slices of lemon with them, a minced clove of garlic and a teaspoon of oregano. Only fill the jars about 2/3rds full of olives. Pour in each quart jar 2/3 cup of white vinegar and a teaspoon of salt. Fill with water to within an inch of the top, then pour in olive oil until the liquid comes to within a half inch of the top of the jar. Seal firmly, agitate to mix contents and store in a dark place at room temperature. 8. These will keep for a year, but are most delicious from about a week after being put in marinade to about 3 to 4 months later. After that, they begin to taste more and more acidic and strong. My arabic father in law loves them the longer they sit, but I prefer them in the early stages. :-) From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:07:11 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:07:11 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Searching the Archives To search the arid_gardener archives go to There is a search engine there that will allow you to search within the message as well as for particular authors, dates, etc. Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:09:55 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:09:55 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to find a certified arborist Check out the site below that lets you search by zip code, city or state for certified arborists in your area. At 04:40 PM 11/07/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and >knowledgeable tree trimmer. >Would it be best to find someone who is a certified >arborist. Other than taking my chances with the >yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make >a recommendation? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:14:16 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:14:16 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranate Hi, The information I found in Sunset's Western Garden mentions a number of varieties from dwarf, to shrub or tree. Most seem to have no fruit, or small dry red fruit. One tree variety is mentioned as the most common (called "Wonderful") fruiting variety. It has red fruit in the autumn. It mentions that regular deep watering is important for fruit development. It would also need to be in a sunny location. It did not mention feeding fertilizer. It did say pomegranates are very tolerant of our alkaline soils. Information from a book called "Shade and Color with Water-Conserving Plants" by James Walters and Balbir Backhaus. Dwarfs are very ornamental in containers but do not produce edible fruit. They all like heat and good drainage. Non fruiting varieties need little water. It mentions "Wonderful" as being the best fruiting. It says to water deeply, twice monthly from spring thru fall. Minimal fertilizer. Doesn't require a pollinator, minimal chilling requirements. There are other fruiting varieties but they are not commonly found. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time, ed-gayle@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: ed-gayle@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:35:42 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:35:42 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification Hi, I can't tell if anyone answered your question or not. Insects can be difficult to identify. Sometimes if you give a very detailed description we can find possibilities in our books. Really your best bet is to bottle up a few specimens and take them into the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Tempe, AZ. They have a very good pannel that looks at specific problems and speciments Friday mornings. I have heard of a white grub that sometimes is found in compost piles, especially ones that don't generate enough heat while they are working. I've never heard anyone even attempt to identify the critter though. On the problems with your garden I know most of my problems stem from poor watering practices. I tend to over water or kill things with shallow watering so that they are killed by accumulative salts. You might check out this address for help with watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.htm The master gardener manual is a wealth of information and can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html For Veggies try: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#vegetable Hope some of this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, kallaz@gte.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: kallaz@gte.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx >> From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:33:05 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:33:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Cindy, As my roses age they reach a peak and then start to decline after 7 or 8 years. The humus that we mix in to the planting hole when we plant a rose is eventually used up by the growing rose. Our plants thrive because of the bacteria that the humus is host to in the soil and when it is gone our plants do not grow as well. We can help the situation by applying any one of the many organic mulches annually. Yellow leaves can be caused by over or under watering, nitrogen deficiency, magnesium deficiency, spider mites as well as other things. Roses struggle to stay alive during our hot summers in the low desert and this one has been much longer than usual. Yesterdays temperature was 16 degrees above normal. I've lost several roses during the last month and I blame it on the much higher than normal temperatures. Black spot is very seldom seen here in the low desert. On Saturday, November 20, Mesa East Valley Rose Society will host a rose show and festival at Mesa Community College, and open to the public from 1:00 to 4:00 PM. Come and enjoy the largest public rose garden in Arizona ( 2500 roses) and bring a sample of foliage from your Paradise rose. One of the several Consulting Rosarians who will be there should be able to help you with a more definitive diagnosis. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From tate@dzn.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:31:15 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:31:15 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation To all my gardening friends. I use plastic T-tape to irrigate my garden site at a community garden location in El Paso Texas. The dripper are 8 inches apart and my lines are 14 to 18 inches apart. I control the amount of water used with an automatic metering valve. This allow me to set the number of gallons of water to apply and the valve cuts off when finished. What I would like to know is someone's recommendation for the maximum depth to place these lines below the surface for a mixed vegetable garden. Presently I have carrots, broccoli, and pole bean growing beautifully with the lines six inches deep. Dale and Selma Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 915.751.3879 From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:47:25 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:47:25 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Vegetables, particularly tomatoes Mike, Below are some resources that may be of interest to you. You may also want to check out the Maricopa County Home Horticulture Website Vegetable Planting Guide for Maricopa County Back the dates up a week or two for Wickenburg Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter, Section on Tomatoes Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Trouble Shooting problems with Tomatoes Desert Gardening For Beginners Good Luck! Lucy Bradley At 06:04 PM 11/13/1999 -0800, you wrote: > My name is Mike Hosler and I am a veteran Master Gardener in Oregon, >Clackamas County Chapter, and got your email address from our program >coordinator. > I am interested in getting info and/or data on raising vegetables, >particularly tomatoes, in the Phoenix and north in the Wickenburg area(s). >I'm sure that the climate presents some unique challenges, and equally sure >that some avid gardeners have mastered them. >Looking for recommendations of people, publications, or any other sources >to which you might direct me. >Thanks >Mike Hosler Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:35 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification The grubs could well have been living in your compost. The larger ones may mature into a magnificent metallic green beetle. Unless you have more than 12 per square foot there is no need to treat them. If you want you can pull them out and set them on the sidewalk or some other surface for the birds to eat them. Arizona Master Gardener Entomology Manual, section on white grubs >In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, >kallaz@gte.net writes: > ><< Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: kallaz@gte.net > Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > arid_gardener > I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a >successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of >home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening >workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and >unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned >home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY >large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are >these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting >seeds? What do I do? Many thx > > > >> > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:09 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:09 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering new sod lawn Hi, Chapter 12 of the Master Gardener Manual gives good information on lawn care in the valley. You might try the following address for help: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.htm.html#index You can also get to the master gardener manual via the Arid_gardener web page by selecting publications. What I found in chapter 12 about newly planted sod is as follows. Water sod 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals for 10 to 14 days. Avoid soaking sod continuously at night. After sod begins to "knit" (and resists being pulled up) begin to water once a day, for a longer period of time. Then, decrease irrigation to every 2 to 3 days. The chapter goes into how to recognize when you lawn needs water, the screw driver test to see if your water is perking the 8 to 10 inches recommended for established lawns. Lots of info you might find useful. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time, tacman7@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: tacman7@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:10 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:10 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo Pine death Hi, I doubt very much that electrical wires running thru the tree had anything to do with the tree's death. The Aleppo pine tree (pinus halepensis) is subject to Texas Root Rot. The symptoms of the disease is rapid death during the hot season. Leaves remain on the tree but are dry and will crumble in your hand. I just lost an eucalyptus tree to the same disease. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time, solson@asu.edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: solson@asu.edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:05 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euphorbia Amak Variegata Hi, There seems to be many varieties of Euphorbia. I haven't found anything on your particular variety. They all seem to be drought tolerant though so I'd expect the problem will be more related to too much water. Anyway I'm reposting your question in case someone one line will recognize the plant and give you more information. You might just have to keep a careful eye on the plant and go by whether it is showing signs of needing water (wilting). JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Azgopher@juno.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Azgopher@juno.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:07 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planter made of plastic pipe Hi Paul, We have several things to consider with your planter. 1. Will it be hung in the shade or full sun? 2. How deep is the planter? The less soil the faster it will dry out in our climate. 3. The color black absorbs heat readily. Keeping the plant roots at a temperature they can tolerate may be a problem. Do you live in the lower valley? 4. Are we talking about annual or perennial plants for your planter? There are a number of books out on container gardening. The one I have is from Sunset. I found it at a local nursery. I know book stores have a number of container gardening books that are more extensive. You might want to just scan thru some of these books for ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time, uitti@primenet.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: uitti@primenet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:08 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:08 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hymenoxys caulis (wild flower) Hi, I'm reposting your question under the name of the wild flower you mentioned. Evidently the one you have in your yard looks like the one you found in the article your referred to. A good description of the plant is always helpful to those of us trying to answer questions. I have one address that might be helpful http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html We do have people in the master gardener program with experience with wild flowers. Hopefully one will see the name of the angelica daisy you mention and give you more information. There are books at nurseries and book stores on wild flowers. You might try scanning thru some of these books. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time, deniseorjohn@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: deniseorjohn@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys caulks (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks >> From sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:38:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:38:04 -0700 (MST) From: sandstrom.family@prodigy.net sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. thank you From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:18:02 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:18:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Grapefruit - When to Pick Hi - Funny you should ask the question about when to pick grapefruit. I just asked myself that this afternoon while looking at the fruit and wondering -----. My Ortho "All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits" says "The only sure way to determine maturity is to taste the fruit. Fruit color is a poor indication of ripeness because many fruits have fully colored rinds months before they can be eaten." On the books, there are sections in most desert gardening books and a section in the Sunset Western Garden Book. The Maricopa County Library at 32nd Street has a good selection. Hope this helps. Ursula ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 3:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. > > thank you > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jess@cvweb.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:04:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: jess@cvweb.com jess@cvweb.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: Question #1: Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. Question #2: If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? Question #3: Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? Thanks for your feedback! Jess T. From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:19:04 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:19:04 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: > > Century Plant > Huachuca Agave > Shindagger > Agave palmeri > Sotol > Yucca elata > Yucca baccata > Ocotillo > Boojum > Aloes > Octopus Agave > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > Thanks > Fran > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gaye.clark@asu.edu Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:40:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:40:27 -0700 (MST) From: gaye.clark@asu.edu gaye.clark@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:31:17 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:31:17 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shaded Lawn Problems >Bermudagrass lawns are the main turf in The Valley and none of the available >Bermuda varieties (seeded nor sodded) are at all tolerant of shade. The >problem has nothing to do with any fungus from the Mesquite trees, as >bermudas are extremely disease tolerant. It is merely caused by the shade >from your clients' maturing trees and is a fairly common problem as >people's landscapes mature. > >The best and usually easiest solution is to trim the trees up - not just >thinning the canopy as you have done before, but actully moving the crown >upwards by removing some of the large lower limbs. You will have to >decide if this is possible based on the individual trees and their current >branch structure - this will allow more sun to shine in under the sides of >the tree during the days. If you do this, then you also need to mow the >turf under the trees at a taller mowing height - 2 to 3 inches tall - to >permit the grass to have more leaf surface to trap and colllect the limited >sunlight. > >Option #2 would be to plant some "Turf Tall Fescue" seed this fall and >winter. This is a cool climate turfgrass species that is very shade >tolerant - available from seed at most local garden centers and nurseries >under many different brand names and labels. This grass species will >remain green year round in our climate, but stresses severely during the hot >summers and needs far more water than bermuda does. However, under trees, >the temperature is generally about 20 degrees coller, so the Tall Fescue >will usually do well and survive the summers in shaded conditions. The >seed needs to be planted NOW in order to get the grass plants root system's >developed well enough before next summer's heat stress returns. PLANT 6 to >8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet in a well prepared seed bed according >to the label instructions and instructions sheets from your grass seed >supplier. DO NOT plant extra seed!!!! More is definitely NOT better, as >the seedlings will be too crowded to develop a good root system and will >succumb to heat and disease next summer. > >Option #3 is to plant St. Augustine or Zoysia grass - Both are warm >climate gras speices with good shade tolerance. St. Augustine from sod >planted next summer - Zoysia from seed or sod planted next summer. Both >of these go dormant in winter like the bermudas and can be overseeded with >ryegrass for winter green turf - although they are not as tolerant of >overseeding practices as the bermudas are. > >There is a good article with more detailed information on this in one of the >1999 issues of the 'Horticultural Communicator' which you can access at our >website where you posted this querstion. Find the Communicator pages >and you should be able to query for the artcile on shaded turfgrass >problems. If you have any problems tracking this down, please advise and >we can help. > >Good Luck! > >Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County > >Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales >Seed Research of Oregon >5314 West Luke Avenue >Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA >tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 >email mhills_sro@msn.com >WEB www.sroseed.com > > > >******************************* >-----Original Message----- >From: mikesmower@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 6:33 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the >past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most >pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, >mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there >has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this >was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent >this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems >to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers >because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? >>one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce >some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, >i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the >account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be >appreciated. >>thanx tim >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:30:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:30:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass seedlings can suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, combined with the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor drainage or soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are spots that get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or similar. I would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering. You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical that you actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem areas - make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you have sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the soil evenly where you want it to. If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in all the way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two reasons. 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is still hard and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus due to overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the drainage. 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then the soil is compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of your spriklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the sprinkler pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also immrpove the drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of running off. To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the area to loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand into the holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration. Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I would not recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually expensive, fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if you have an underlying problem with watering or drainage. You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. If you got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should have shown you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and then tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make sure that you are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much water can often lead to disease problkems also. Hope that this information is helpful. mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener Mike Hills Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales Seed Research of Oregon 5314 West Luke Avenue Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 email mhills_sro@msn.com WEB www.sroseed.com ************************* -----Original Message----- From: gaye.clark@asu.edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JAPA@CTAZ.COM Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:12:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:12:43 -0700 (MST) From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM JAPA@CTAZ.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:54:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:54:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Hello and thanks for the question - The specific watering requirements will differ depending on which herb species you planted. Some herb plants grow larger than others, and some are higher water users than other species. Also, the amount and system of water delivery will be effected by the type of soil in your herb garden. Did you amend the soil with organic matter, or are you using our native soil with its higher clay content? Is this a raised bed, or planted directly into your yard soil? Some herbs such as Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Sage are much more prone to root rot and should be planted in well drained soil and not receive too much water. Others such as Basil, Oregano, Lemongrass, Chiles, Sorrel, Mints, Lemon Balm, Gotu Kola, etc. like or at least tolerate extra water. Please let me know which specific herb plants you have planted and I will try to give you more detailed advice. Also email your mailing addresss and I will have the Arizona Herb Association mail you their info sheet on soil preparation and watering for herbs grown in The Valley. This local herb gardening club meets the first Thursday of each month (except for December) at 7 pm and meetings are either at the Palo Verde room at the Extension office, or are at the Community Room at the Pueblo Grande Museum. The telephone voice mail system and the website both will tell the meeting topic and the meeting location for each month. We welcome guests at our meetings - dues are $25 individual and $35 for a family per year - this includes meetings, monthly newsletter and discounts on many books available at our meetings and out monthly functions. You can check out information on the Arizona Herb Association and their upcoming meetings (some of the Spring meetings will have topics concerning soil and irrigation) by calling tel #602-470-8086 ext. 830 or checking our website at www.accessarizona.com/Community/Groups/AzHerb You may also want to go check out local herb demo gardens to get some ideas - we maintain a demonstration herb garden at the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 east Broadway Road AND we also advise the Desert Botanical Gardne on their herb demonstration garden. The Arizona Herb Association also has a great book published on growing herbs in this area "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" available for $10 including postage - mail to : Az Herb Assoc., P.O. Box 63101, Phoenix, AZ 85082 The Master Gardener Press has also published an excellent book for beginning gardeners in this area, and this book includes a section on herbs that may be helpful. "Desert Gardening for Beginners' by Cathy Cromell - send $10 check made out to University of Arizona - mail to: Master Gardener Program, Maricopa County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - OR, you can pick up the book at that office for $8.00 walk in. One thing to keep in mind under your Eucalyptus tree - keep the dropped leaves cleared away from the plants on a regular basis. Eucalyptus leaves do not mulch down very well and may also leach substances into the soil that slow growth of other plants. Eucalyptus trees also have extensive, invasive roots systems that often compete with other more shallow rooted plants making it difficult to grow other flowers and plants under these trees. You may have no problems, but please keep this in mind for later reference. ALSO, the October 22 issue of the Arizona Republic had a good article on planting and care of Fall Herbs in their Arizona Home and Gardening section. I believe you can access this article online at the Arizona Republic's website, or call them to order a back issue of the paper. Look forward to hearing back from you. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association, Phoenix ************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: jess@cvweb.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: > >Question #1: >Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. > >Question #2: >If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? > >Question #3: >Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? > >Thanks for your feedback! > >Jess T. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:37:39 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:37:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade plants Check out the article on Shade Plants in the Saturday November 13, 1999 issue of the Arizona Republic in the AZ Home and Garden section. Should be accessable through the Republic's website - if you cannot find it, let me know and I will try to pull the article from our submission files and forward to you. Good Luck - Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County mhills_sro@msn.com ************************************** -----Original Message----- From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 3:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. >THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:31:31 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:31:31 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Alan Singer wrote: > Mary, > Thanks for writing back. > I am preparing for being a docent in a desert botanical garden. > We are studying plants that grow in this garden. > I need to become very familiar with the list of succulents I indicated > below. > Such things as growing times, blooming, perhaps some interesting information > about a particular plant. > Anything that would work with children and adults. > I hope that helps. > > Thanks > Fran > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mary Irish > To: > Cc: > Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary > > > > > > asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on > specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following > succulents: > > > > > > Century Plant - This is actually Agave americana. The plant is grown > ornamentally all over the world and gets large, usually 5 ft tall and as much > across although there can be varieties that are much larger, particulary when > grown in coastal California or the Mediterranean. It usually lives about 20 > years in the Phoenix area and is highly susceptible to the agave snout weevil > > > Huachuca Agave - This is Agave parryi v. huachucensis and is native to > southern Arizona and into northern Sonora. It is usually about 2.5 ft tall > maybe 3 ft and a little less around. It is quite cold hardy, very symmetrical > plant that is widely used in the ornamental trade. > > > Shindagger - Many plants carry this common name but Agave lechuguilla is > one of the plants that is usually associated with the name. That agave has a > wide distribution throughout the Chihuahuan desert, in fact in most areas > where it occurs it is so common that you almost have to walk on it to cross > the area. It is smaller, about 2 ft tall generally, and is rounded on the back > of the leaf with a distinctive striation to the skin. > > > Agave palmeri - This is another larger plant that is native to southern > Arizona but it intergrades north with Agave chrysantha. It is about 3-4 feet > tall and at least that around. It is not particulary common horticulturally, > but is very attractive. > > > Sotol - This name is usually applied to Dasylirion wheeleri, which is > native to the mid elevations of Arizona and into Mexico. The plant is a > collection of tightly held leaves that have tiny teeth on the edge. Unlike > agaves, dasylirion bloom throughout their lives with large, plume-like > flowering heads. > > > Yucca elata - The soaptree yucca is found throughout the Sonoran and > Mohave desert and eastward into New Mexico. It is tall and the flowering > stalks are held high above the plant, the entire thing can be over 25 ft tall. > Plants look grassy and have many small white filaments that are at the base of > the leaf making them look hairy. > > > Yucca baccata - Banana yucca is native to the mid elevations of Arizona > north into New Mexico and Nevada. The plant is pretty variable, it can be > tall, about 6-8 feet tall, or trailing along the ground. The leaves are > generally dusky blue grey but in some populations are a beautiful pale blue > green. The flowers are large and close inside the head. They are reputed to be > edible as are the seed pods. > > > Ocotillo - Fouquieria splendens is native to Arizona with small isolated > populations in Nevada and California. It is part of a small family that is > limited to the deserts of Baja, Sonora and the U.S. of which the boojum tree > is the most remarkable. This plant can lose its leaves, to conserve moisture, > many times during the year. The bloom is beautiful, a cluster of red tubular > flowers held at the end of the long stems. > > > Boojum - Fouquieria columnaris is related to the ocotillo as noted above. > It is an unusualy looking plant, tall (over 50 ft in nature) with a whitish > smooth skin on a trunk that is wider at the base than the top. Stems are very > thorny and occur irregular intervals on the plant. It is entirely summer > dormant, and blooms while it is dormant. > > > Aloes - This is a large genus of succulent plants, most of them from > southern Africa, all of them from the Old World. Horticulturally, most like > some shade here, but there are so many it is hard to generalize too much. > > > Octopus Agave - Agave vilmoriniana is not common in nature but is becoming > very common as an ornamental in Phoenix. It can be large, up to 6 ft across > and almost that tall, and has very soft, curved unarmed leaves. In areas > colder than Phoenix some attention needs to be paid to frost protection for > this plant. I can recommend some books for you to check for more detailed information. Agaves of Continental North America by Howard S. Gentry, Sonoran Desert Atlas by Turner and others, Boojum by R. Humphrey should help some. Good luck, Mary Irish > > > > > > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Fran > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:45:59 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:45:59 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose this might be the sphinx moth larva.look in arid gardener archives. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose > Hello, > > I'd suggest that you bottle up a few of the black worms and take them into > the county extension office at 4341 East Broadway in Phoenix. An alternative > of this would be to make a very detailed description of the worm in another > question to the arid_gardener in hopes that someone on the board can identify > it for you. > > I doubt you will have much success with the Mexican Primrose until you can > control what is feeding off of it. > > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > Master Gardener Volunteer > Apache Junction, AZ > > > In a message dated 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, > RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com writes: > > << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time > From: RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com > To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > Last February I planted many beds of Mexican > > (spelling?). The plants flourished and then were attacked by some insect or > black worm. The plants were soon stripped of all leaf and bloom. They had a > leggy barren look. I replaced all in June and again they flourished,but were > soon attacked again. They have been in this leggy barren look for most of the > summer. The plants are under drip irrigation. Yesterday I trimmed back some > of the barren stems and discovered that many show signs of life. Is there a > trick to growing these things? How do you treat this plant for insect (worm) > infestation? There is new leaf growth at the base of some plants and already > the lefs are showing signs of being eaten. > > > > From CarlovClin@aol.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:33:37 EST Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:33:37 EST From: CarlovClin@aol.com CarlovClin@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Native Seed Search, headquartered at Tucson Botanical Gardens exists to collect and propagate the old varieties of plants grown locally. I acquired several seta of I'itois onion from a demonstration garden at the East Campus of Pima Community College. It is a mold flavored multiplier that is well adapted to Sonoran desert rainfall. It grew last winter during the winter rains and again during the summer monsoons. I would be glad to share some sets if I had an address. Clinton Andrus From redworm@netzone.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 06:03:09 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 06:03:09 -0700 From: Jerry English redworm@netzone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] L'itois onion This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is Payson to far north? Would love to get them started for local garden = club. redworm@netzone ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is  Payson to far north? Would = love to get=20 them started for local garden club. = redworm@netzone
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:45:56 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:45:56 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: Fwd: I was asked to forward this to you >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:57:29 -0700 >To: Carol Noyes >From: Terry Mikel >Subject: Re: Fwd: I was asked to forward this to you > >This is a response on an inquiry about mesquite trees in lawns and the >grass suffering. . . . Mesquite trees in lawns offer a couple pressures to >the grass. First is the the competition for water. . . .Second and >probably more important is the shade affect. . . .Grass needs lots of sun >and the vigororous mesquites can easily shade large areas quickly. . . >.About some unknown fungus interacting or some other alepathic interaction. >. . .I have not heard of any but we do know about the shade and water >issue. . . >Terry > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:31:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:31:03 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose I have a whole section of my yard in the Mexican Evening Primrose and what you saw this summer is a very normal pattern. This feeding damage is usually caused by an insect called a "Flea Beetle" - immature stage looks like a smal dark worm maybe 1/4 inch long and the adult is a small dark colored beetle. You can check in the University of Arizona website for the 'Horticultural Communicator' newsletter archives for an article written on it earlier this summer, when the problem was showing up all over the area. Many of us who grow this flower in our yards count on this insect to come in each summer and prune the plants, as the Mexican Evening Primrose can be pretty invasive if it grows unchecked. Overall the insect does no major harm and you rarely need to replant with new plants - in fact, putting fresh plants into the infested area just gives them some new food and extends the insects expansion cycle. Once the insects have pruned the plants for you, rake out the dead stems and debris in late summer. The plants are usually a bit dormant at that point, especially in full sun. But as soon as cooler temperatures hit in late September or early October (or this year, in November) the crowns and roots of the Primrose plants start sending up new healthy buds. Mine are loaded with new growth the last couple of weeks. The insect doesn't show again until middle of next summer, after you have enjoyed 6+ months of blooms. Within another month yours will be blooming again and go on through next summer. Not everyone gets this insect in their primrose and those that do get it, don't necessarily have it each year so you may see it again next year, or it may pass you by - you may also see others in your neighborhood whose plants are still blooming a bit in summer when yours are eaten down. You can decide to spray an insecticide next summer when the damage first starts to appear, but keep in mind that these insects do only minor damage to the plants, which always recover from the underground rhizomes and crowns - it may be best for your family, pets and neighbors to skip spraying an insecticide at all and just work around it. Good Luck! Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County ********************************************************* -----Original Message----- From: don olson To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 7:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose >arid_gardener >this might be the sphinx moth larva.look in arid gardener archives. >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Cc: >Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 11:54 AM >Subject: Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose > > >> Hello, >> >> I'd suggest that you bottle up a few of the black worms and take them into >> the county extension office at 4341 East Broadway in Phoenix. An >alternative >> of this would be to make a very detailed description of the worm in >another >> question to the arid_gardener in hopes that someone on the board can >identify >> it for you. >> >> I doubt you will have much success with the Mexican Primrose until you can >> control what is feeding off of it. >> >> >> JeanSciFi@aol.com >> Master Gardener Volunteer >> Apache Junction, AZ >> >> >> In a message dated 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, >> RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com writes: >> >> << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> Date: 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time >> From: RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com >> To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> >> Last February I planted many beds of Mexican >> >> (spelling?). The plants flourished and then were attacked by some insect >or >> black worm. The plants were soon stripped of all leaf and bloom. They had >a >> leggy barren look. I replaced all in June and again they flourished,but >were >> soon attacked again. They have been in this leggy barren look for most of >the >> summer. The plants are under drip irrigation. Yesterday I trimmed back >some >> of the barren stems and discovered that many show signs of life. Is there >a >> trick to growing these things? How do you treat this plant for insect >(worm) >> infestation? There is new leaf growth at the base of some plants and >already >> the lefs are showing signs of being eaten. >> >> >> >> > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From curtis@primenet.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:07:35 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:07:35 -0700 From: Starr & Judy Curtis curtis@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Euphorbia Amak Variegata General care for euphorbias: Let the soil become dry to the touch between waterings. When you do water, do it until it comes out the bottom. This prevents salt buildup. If it is in the ground the same thing applies--water well when you do but let it dry out between. Fertilize monthly in summer with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 diluted to half strength. They also benefit from a little bone meal and a little limestone mixed with the soil (about 1tablespoon per gallon of soil). Judy Curtis, Master Gardener > Date: 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: Azgopher@juno.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > arid_gardener > This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At >what rate do I water it until it is established ? From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:57:49 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:57:49 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The first fertilization on a winter ryegrass lawn is usually sometime = after the first mowing. Prior to that, the seedlings are too young to = need or take up any fertilizer you apply. Check with your yard = maintenance people on this - they may already have the fertilizer = application scheduled. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County ********************************************************* -----Original Message----- From: Gaye Clark To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:11 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas =20 =20 thank you. I will go out and check it this morning. We have had it = in about 3-4 weeks and it's watered daily ( per our lawnman). shouldn't = it be fertilized soon as well? -----Original Message-----=20 From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com]=20 Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM=20 To: gaye.clark@asu.edu=20 Cc: arid gardener list=20 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas=20 =20 =20 Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass = seedlings can=20 suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, = combined with=20 the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor = drainage or=20 soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are = spots that=20 get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or = similar. I=20 would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and = poke it=20 into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering.=20 You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical = that you=20 actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem = areas -=20 make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you = have=20 sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is = penetrating the=20 soil evenly where you want it to.=20 If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in = all the=20 way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two = reasons.=20 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is = still hard=20 and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus = due to=20 overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the = drainage.=20 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then = the soil=20 is compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of = your=20 spriklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the = sprinkler=20 pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also = immrpove the=20 drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of = running off.=20 To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the = area to=20 loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce = the=20 hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand = into the=20 holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration.=20 Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I = would not=20 recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually = expensive,=20 fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if = you have=20 an underlying problem with watering or drainage.=20 You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. = If you=20 got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should = have shown=20 you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started = and then=20 tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make = sure that=20 you are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much = water can=20 often lead to disease problkems also.=20 Hope that this information is helpful.=20 mike hills=20 Volunteer Master Gardener=20 Mike Hills=20 Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales=20 Seed Research of Oregon=20 5314 West Luke Avenue=20 Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA=20 tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298=20 email mhills_sro@msn.com=20 WEB www.sroseed.com=20 *************************=20 -----Original Message-----=20 From: gaye.clark@asu.edu =20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu =20 Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM=20 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=20 =20 =20 >arid_gardener=20 >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back = that=20 have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the = grass=20 was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is = front and=20 back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be?=20 >=20 >=20 >_______________________________________________=20 >Arid_gardener mailing list=20 >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=20 >=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead = areas
The first fertilization on a winter = ryegrass=20 lawn is usually sometime after the first mowing.    Prior = to=20 that, the seedlings are too young to need or take up any fertilizer you=20 apply.      Check with your yard maintenance = people on=20 this  - they may already have the fertilizer application=20 scheduled.
 
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa = County
 
*********************************************************=
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Gaye Clark <GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu>
To:=20 'Mike Hills' <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>=
Date:=20 Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:11 AM
Subject: RE:=20 [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas

thank you. I will go out and check it this = morning. We have=20 had it in about 3-4 weeks and it's watered daily ( per our lawnman). = shouldn't it be fertilized soon as well?

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com<= /A>]=20
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM =
To: gaye.clark@asu.edu
Cc: arid = gardener=20 list
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass = dead=20 areas


Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the = ryegrass=20 seedlings can
suffer from several fungal = diseases=20 due to the excess water, combined with
the = hot=20 temperatures.    Usually this occurs in areas with = poor=20 drainage or
soil compaction.   = Please=20 check if those areas in your yard are spots that
get=20 extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or=20 similar.   I
would suggest that = you take a=20 long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it
into the=20 soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering.

You did say that it is not due to lack of water, = but it is=20 critical that you
actually check the soil = water=20 condition in those specific problem areas  -
make sure that the soil is not dry or too = wet.    The=20 fact that you have
sprinklers going does = not=20 necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the
soil evenly where you want it to.

If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing = the=20 screwdriver in all the
way, then the = compaction is=20 causing the problem for one of two reasons.
1)   If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, = but the=20 soil is still hard
and the screwdriver = won't go in,=20 then you have damping off fungus due to
overly wet=20 conditions.   Need to loosen the soil to improve the=20 drainage.

2)  If the soil in that area is dry and the = probe won't=20 go in then the soil
is compacted and also = may have=20 problem with the overlap pattern of your
spriklers=20 not wetting the area enough.   Need to adjust the = sprinkler=20
pattern to be sure all areas get watered = sufficiently and=20 also immrpove the
drainage of the soil = there so the=20 water can soak in instead of running off.

To improve the drainage in those areas, you can = dig or=20 rototill the area to
loosen, or perhaps = just use a=20 long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the
hardened=20 crust.   If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand = into=20 the
holes you make, you will see much = better soil=20 penetration.

Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such = as damping=20 off, I would not
recommend spraying with a = fungicide=20 product.   These are usually expensive,
fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that = effective if you=20 have
an underlying problem with watering = or=20 drainage.

You didn't mention how long since you planted your = ryegrass=20 seeds.   If you
got instructions = from your=20 nursery or garden center, they should have shown
you=20 proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and=20 then
tapering off the watering frequency = as the=20 plants mature.    Make sure that
you=20 are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much water=20 can
often lead to disease problkems = also.=20

Hope that this information is helpful.

mike hills
Volunteer = Master=20 Gardener
Mike Hills
Research=20 Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales
Seed Research = of=20 Oregon
5314 West Luke Avenue =
Glendale, Arizona    85301    = USA
tel(623)435-9393   =20 fax(623)435-5121    cell(602)909-7298 =
email    mhills_sro@msn.com
WEB     www.sroseed.com

*************************
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 gaye.clark@asu.edu <gaye.clark@asu.edu>
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>=20
Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM =
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW = page=20


>arid_gardener
>Recently=20 planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back = that=20
have died. I went over to see why a brown spot = had occurred=20 and the grass
was brown and dry and just = pulled out=20 when I tocuhed it. This is front and
back. = it's not=20 due to lack of water. what could it be?
>=20
>
>_______________________________________________ =
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= /FONT>=20
>


------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:08:39 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:08:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose - FYI -----Original Message----- From: Robert Flowers, JR To: Mike Hills Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose >Thank you so very much for the info.........The plants are pushing up great >new growth just as you described. ------------------------------------------------------------- >----- Original Message ----- >From: Mike Hills >To: >Cc: arid gardener list >Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:31 AM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose > > >> I have a whole section of my yard in the Mexican Evening Primrose and what >> you saw this summer is a very normal pattern. This feeding damage is >> usually caused by an insect called a "Flea Beetle" - immature stage looks >> like a smal dark worm maybe 1/4 inch long and the adult is a small dark >> colored beetle. You can check in the University of Arizona website for >> the 'Horticultural Communicator' newsletter archives for an article >written >> on it earlier this summer, when the problem was showing up all over the >> area. >> >> Many of us who grow this flower in our yards count on this insect to come >in >> each summer and prune the plants, as the Mexican Evening Primrose can be >> pretty invasive if it grows unchecked. Overall the insect does no major >> harm and you rarely need to replant with new plants - in fact, putting >fresh >> plants into the infested area just gives them some new food and extends >the >> insects expansion cycle. Once the insects have pruned the plants for >you, >> rake out the dead stems and debris in late summer. The plants are >usually >> a bit dormant at that point, especially in full sun. But as soon as >cooler >> temperatures hit in late September or early October (or this year, in >> November) the crowns and roots of the Primrose plants start sending up new >> healthy buds. Mine are loaded with new growth the last couple of weeks. >> The insect doesn't show again until middle of next summer, after you have >> enjoyed 6+ months of blooms. Within another month yours will be >blooming >> again and go on through next summer. >> >> Not everyone gets this insect in their primrose and those that do get it, >> don't necessarily have it each year so you may see it again next year, or >it >> may pass you by - you may also see others in your neighborhood whose >> plants are still blooming a bit in summer when yours are eaten down. >You >> can decide to spray an insecticide next summer when the damage first >starts >> to appear, but keep in mind that these insects do only minor damage to the >> plants, which always recover from the underground rhizomes and crowns - >it >> may be best for your family, pets and neighbors to skip spraying an >> insecticide at all and just work around it. >> >> Good Luck! >> Mike Hills >> Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County >> ********************************************************* >> From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:08:59 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:08:59 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Shade >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:07:26 -0700 >To: mikesmower@aol.com >From: "Mike Hills" (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >Subject: Shade > >arid_gardener > >Here is a file copy of the Horticultural Communicator article on shade = >problems with turf from earlier this year. May give you some = >additional ideas on your turfgrass problems under the mesquite trees. > >mike hills - Volunteer Master Gardener > >*********************************** > >Can=92t See Your Grass For The Trees? Or The Mystery of the Dead Shaded = >Grass > >As plant attached people, we all have some personal experience with =93a = >walk in the woods=94. As we walk through the woods, we notice a = >definite lack of =85=85=85=85=85. Yes, that=92s right =96 GRASS. As a = >general rule, we do not expect to see grass growing under the trees in = >Nature =96 in fact we all know that you look for grass in open, sunny = >areas among the trees such as meadows. But, somehow when we gardeners = >move into the realm of our own yard, we forget what we already know and = >we expect to have lush, thick grass under our own trees. After all, we = >manage to manipulate most other plants to grow where and how we want = >them to grow. And, to add further strain to our lawn growing efforts, = >we insist on pruning the turf plants very short and leaving a much = >reduced leaf surface to harvest the limited sunlight that reaches past = >the tree canopies. Turf is a good choice for recreation and for = >cooling benefits on the home, but Low Desert residents have to be = >realistic about where we can grow it. > >The turfgrass species used around the world have entered Mankinds=92 = >turf world from wild and maintained pastures. This includes both the = >cool climate turfgrass species (fescues, bluegrasses, bentgrasses, = >ryegrasses, etc.) that originated in Europe and the warm climate species = >(bermudagrasses, zoysias, bahias, St. Augustine, buffalograsses, etc.) = >that originated in various hot or tropical regions of the world. In = >all cases, mowed and maintained turfgrasses were originally chosen for = >their ability to withstand and thrive under the constant traffic and = >grazing pressure of our animal herds =96 the first lawn mowers. A = >pasture is a manmade duplication of the natural grasslands and prairies = >around the world - wide open spaces, with few shrubs or trees to = >compete with the grass plants for nutrients and water, and plenty of = >sunlight. A successful manmade turfgrass area is generally the same = >duplication. > >Plant breeders have made many improvements over the years to our = >turfgrass choices through selection and breeding for desired traits such = >as color, texture, density, disease & insect resistance, reduced water = >needs, etc. However, shade tolerance is one area where very little = >progress has actually been made. These are after all plants that = >evolved over millions of years to fill an ecological niche in full sun = >conditions =96 turfgrass breeders have only been working on this for a = >few hundred years and it will take longer to match Mother Nature=92s = >success. =20 > >A few turfgrass species tend to be more tolerant of shade than others, = >but this does not mean that they are truly =93shade loving=94 plants. = >Comparing the same plants in sun or shade, the plants with adequate = >light levels will always be healthier and more vigorous. Sadly for Low = >Desert gardeners, the turf species that are more tolerant of shaded = >conditions are not very tolerant of our temperature and pH extremes. = >In a few situations, we can manage to get some grass to hang on in heavy = >shade, but it will not be as healthy as the surrounding sunny areas, and = >will always be more susceptible to insect and disease pressures during = >the more stressful times of the year. > >We actually need to concede defeat to Mother Nature, and convert our = >heavily shaded areas to flower and vegetable beds or plant these areas = >to shade loving ground covers. If you or your MG Hotline clients still = >insist on growing grass in those areas, there are a few cultural = >practices that can help improve your chances. Removing some trees to = >increase sunlight; pruning the tree crowns upward and thinning the = >canopies periodically to let in more light; mowing the shaded grass = >taller to allow more leaf surface; or planting a different turf species = >under the trees that is more shade tolerant. Over the long term, the = >first three choices are generally more successful. For the last = >option, we desert dwellers can plant zoysiagrass or tall fescue and have = >some success in our shaded turf areas. However, these will need = >different levels and types of nutrients, water and mowing than the = >surrounding grass areas AND, the turf gardener will have to diligently = >monitor the shaded turf for insect and disease problems.=20 > >I would recommend taking Mother Nature=92s advice. Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:11:16 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:11:16 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose - FYI arid_gardener Gaye Clark - now that the seedlings are 4 weeks old, you definitely = need to change the watering schedule to water a lot less often, but for = longer periods each time. 5 minutes per day, just about every day = is not healthy for the grass and can actually lead to stress and disease = problems. To sprout the seedlings initially, your maintenance people = should have been watering several times per day, every day for about 5 = minutes each time - for the first 3-4 weeks, until the first mowing. = Then, you start reducing the water schedule to water deeper, but not = quite as often - this promotes a healthier turfgrass plant. I highly recommend that you check out the Arizona Republic Home & garden = section for the Saturday issue in mid October that included how to = overseed. This article had step-by-step instructions that you need to = discuss with your maintenance contractors. I have tried to paste the = original text version of the article in the message below, but you may = still want to check the Republic's website for the actual article. One critical thing to check now, is to be sure you are not watering at = night or in the evening. If the grass seedlings go into the cooler = evening and night with a lot of moisture on the leaves, fungal diseases = are almost guaranteed. The grass should be watered in the morning or = perhaps the afternoon, so that there is enough time for the leaves to = dry off before sunset each day. If none of these answers seems to quite fit the bill, and you've = discussed this with your maintenance people, then you may need to = re-seed the entire area and start over. Perhaps applying a general = purpose turf fungicide at the time of seeding to reduce the chance of = disease. Also, do not put any fertilizer down with the new seeding, = until those plants are first mowed. It may also be possible that your grass seedlings are stressing for = water - did they cover the seed with mulch or manure when planted, or = are the seeds laying exposed on top of the ground? If they are = exposed, and since we are having this unusually hot fall weather, it is = very possible that the seedlings are burning up due to lack of water and = too high temperature, even though your soil probe shows the soil is soft = and has water in it. Many landscape, sports field and golf firms do = not bother with mulch or manure application over the seed , and in most = years this is not a real problem. But, with our hot temperatures this = year on any exposed seedings may be part of your problem. Hope this helps - mike hills ************************************************************* Fall Overseeding. Go For The Green! Sharon Dewey, Special for the Arizona Republic If you really enjoy that dead-grass look, then by all means don=92t = overseed this fall. But if a functional turf area is part of your = landscape design, and you have spent all spring and summer nurturing = your lawn, start planning for overseeding so you can enjoy your little = patch of green all year. You also will be protecting the dormant Bermuda = by insulating the growing crown, which produces new shoots. Here=92s = what you do: Overseeding established Bermuda lawns with winter rye can be done from = mid-October through mid-November. Temperatures should be reaching the = mid-sixties at night on a consistent basis for good overseeding weather. = This article covers the Seven Steps for Overseeding: Managing Bermuda = Grass, Scalping and Dethatching, Selecting Seed and Sowing, Top = Dressing, Watering, Mowing, and Fertilizing. 1. Managing Bermuda Grass 1.. Your Bermuda grass needs to be managed to slow down growth and = encourage food storage for dormancy. But do not overseed your Bermuda = lawn until its second year. 2.. Do not fertilize for four to six weeks before overseeding. 3.. Two weeks before overseeding, reduce watering by 50 percent. 2. Scalping and Dethatching 4.. Scalp (mow) Bermuda grass to =BD inch in height. 5.. Heavy dethatching of Bermuda grass should not be a part of fall = overseeding. 6.. Dethatch only if heavy thatch exists (more than =BD inch), and = just enough to open the canopy and allow the seeds to make contact with = the soil. Thatch is a fibrous, straw-like layer between the soil and the = grass blades. 7.. Early and midsummer dethatching is best. 8.. If dethatching is done too late in the summer or in early fall = when temperatures are warm (above 90 degrees), it may indirectly injure = the grass because the Bermuda will put energy into new growth instead of = slowing down and preparing for its winter rest. Bermuda grass needs this = slowing period in order to successfully compete in the spring with any = surviving rye grass. 3. Selecting Seed and Sowing 9.. Rye grasses, both annual and perennial, make up the majority of = the grass types used for overseeding. 10.. Annual rye grass is less expensive per pound than perennial = rye, but it requires more seed to cover the same area. Perennial rye is = often preferred since it is a darker green, more disease resistant, = easier to mow, and finer bladed. It is also less likely to stain = clothing, shoes and kids. 11.. Determine the amount of seed: Annual Rye =96 10 to 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet Perennial Rye =96 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet 12.. Sow the seeds evenly by hand or use a spreader. 13.. Spread half of the seeds in one direction and the other half = perpendicular to the first direction. 14.. Drag or rake the seeds to ensure that it makes contact with the = soil 4. Top Dressing 15.. Cover the seed with no more than 1/4 inch of weed-free material = such as peat moss or forest mulch. 16.. Another option is to cover the seed with grass clippings = instead of mulch. To use this method, scalp the lawn at 3/4 inch instead = of =BD inch, then follow Step 3 for Selecting Seed and Sowing. After = seeding the area, use a reel mower without the catcher and mow the = remaining Bermuda stubble (about 1/4 inch), leaving the clippings to = cover the seed. 17.. Top dressing is an optional step that can help retain moisture = and moderate temperature for seed germination. It is especially helpful = if cool temperatures come early. (Hey! sometimes it happens here in the = desert!). However, some people have had success without top dressing = during years with normal, moderate weather. 5. Watering 18.. Keep the seeds damp for seven days. 19.. Water three times a day for short durations (5 to 10 minutes) = at 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m. Water four times a day if you do not top = dress. 20.. If temperatures are below 100 degrees (we can only hope by = mid-October!), water two times per day (about 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. is = ideal) for 5 to 10 minutes. 21.. When the grass emerges to one inch, reduce watering to once a = day, applying 1/4 inch of water. 22.. After the second mowing, reduce the water to an as-needed = basis, applying =BD to 1-3/4 inches per week. 23.. Once the lawn is established and depending on temperature, wind = and rain, watering may be reduced to every other week or as often as two = to three times per week. Water only enough to avoid wilt between = waterings. 6. Mowing 24.. When the grass is about two inches high (about two weeks after = overseeding), mow to a height of 1-1/2 inches. Perennial rye can be = mowed lower, but it is best to allow the grass to become established = before closer mowing, or else seedlings may be pulled out. 25.. Use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades shred the grass tips, = which turn brown and can create entry wounds for diseases. 26.. Do not mow when the lawn is wet or seedlings may be pulled out. 27.. The One-Third Rule determines when to mow established grass. Cut only the top one-third of the grass blade at any mowing. Removing more than one-third interrupts photosynthesis (the plant=92s ability to make food) and causes some of the deeper roots to die. 7. Fertilizing 28.. About two weeks after overseeding, fertilize with a 16-20-0, or lawn starter fertilizer. Then water in the fertilizer. 29.. Don't fertilize too early or the Bermuda may start to compete with the rye, and don=92t wait too long or the rye seeds may die for lack of nutrition. 30.. After your winter lawn is established fertilize every four to six weeks with one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, using a balanced fertilizer such as a blend of 21-7-14. Keeping your lawn green all winter pays great dividends. It maintains the beauty of your landscape design, allows you to continue having a functional area for children and pets to play, and provides space for family gatherings. It also protects your dormant Bermuda. But remember that proper maintenance year-round keeps your lawn healthy and helps you save water, time and money. And yes, appropriate turf areas are one of the seven principles of xeriscape. So, it=92s okay to Go for the Green! Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional at Western Sod and is a Master Gardener volunteer for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. ******************************* -----Original Message----- From: Gaye Clark To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:21 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas =20 =20 Okay, I went out and the screwdriver goes the entire length into the ground fine. The sprinklers are set at 5 minutes 5 days a week. Our yard man sets them to not be on on Weds and Thurs. as he mows on Thursdays. So what should I do now? Re seed these areas, fertilize, or what? It looks terrible and it looked so nice. Maybe a rain dance would help! -----Original Message-----=20 From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com]=20 Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM=20 To: gaye.clark@asu.edu=20 Cc: arid gardener list=20 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas=20 Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass seedlings can suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, combined with the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor drainage or soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are spots that get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swing sets or similar. I would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering. You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical that you actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem areas make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you have sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the soil evenly where you want it to. If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in all the way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two reasons 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is still hard and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus due to overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the drainage. 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then the soils compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of your sprinklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the sprinkler pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also improve the drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of running off. To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the area to loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand into the holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration. Even if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I would not recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually expensive, fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if you have an underlying problem with watering or drainage. You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. If you got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should have shown you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and then tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make sure that you are not over watering the grass as it gets older, as too much water can often lead to disease problems also Hope that this information is helpful. mike hills=20 Volunteer Master Gardener=20 Mike Hills=20 Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales=20 Seed Research of Oregon=20 5314 West Luke Avenue=20 Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA=20 tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298=20 email mhills_sro@msn.com=20 WEB www.sroseed.com=20 *************************=20 -----Original Message-----=20 From: gaye.clark@asu.edu =20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu =20 Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM=20 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=20 >arid_gardener >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? From crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 17 Nov 1999 11:40:50 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 11:40:50 -0700 From: Cathy Rymer crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: ASDM seeks Landscape Gardener >Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 20:14:17 -0700 >From: David Sewell >Subject: ASDM seeks Landscape Gardener >To: AZPLANTS@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU > >[Posted for Sandi Lehman . Please reply >to address given in notice, not via email. --DS] > > ------------------------------------------------------ > LANDSCAPE GARDENER > > The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is seeking qualified applicants for > the position of Landscape Gardener. Primary responsibilities include > assisting the Botany staff with maintaining and creating plant-related > exhibits on Museum grounds including planting, pruning, watering, > irrigation installation, fertilizing, and weed and pest control. > Weekend, holiday and evening work may be required. Minimum six months > directly related experience, such as horticultural or outdoor work > experience in the Sonoran Desert region. A working knowledge of > desert landscaping is required. Must be able to lift/carry 50 pounds, > endure extensive physical labor, e.g. lifting, digging, bending, etc. > Ability to tolerate exposure to elements. Must have good > communication skills and be self-motivated to develop professionally. > Send letter of interest and resume to Human Resources, Arizona-Sonora > Desert Museum, 2021 N. Kinney Road, Tucson, AZ 85743. No phone calls > please. Closing date November 19, 1999. No relocation allowance. > EOE > > -------------------------------------------------------- > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from this list, send the command SIGNOFF AZPLANTS to >LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU, or send a request to >AZPLANTS-request@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU. From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:25:55 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:25:55 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Jessica - will mail you today the information on the Arizona Herb Association, and our herb planting and care sheet as well. Really suggest you purchase the 2 books I mentioned previously to help you with herb and vegetable growing questions all year - "Desert Gardening for Beginners" and also 'The Low Desert Herb Growing Handbook" - both are available at the Extension Ofice on Broadway. ALSO, THERE IS A HERB GARDENING CLASS BEING TAUGHT THIS SATURDAY AT THE EXTENSION OFFICE - contact Lori Thompson for details on class and fees - lthompson@rocketmail.com I'm not sure what to tell you to grow under the euc tree to compete with the aggressive eucalyptus roots. Would suggest yu send that as a new question to this arid gardener master gardener list and see who responds. One thing to keep in mind - herbs like more sun than most people think - more sun = better growth and better flavor - be sure that your Euc. tree is not shading the herb bed too much - you may need to prune up some of he lower branches to allow more sunlight in. On your soil additives you mention - hope this means that you mixed these into your existing soil and did not just pour this stuff on top of the ground and plant directly into the compost - mixing into your existing soil is far far better. As far as watering the herbs you presently have planted, here are some thoughts: These herbs do vary a little in their water needs - the basil and the mint probably use the most - so you might be bettter off using a different drip emitter to each seperate plant. Adjustable emitters are available that allow you to open and close the end so you can control how much water the different plants recieve. Here are some tips on the individuals: BASIL - this is a summer herb that is frost sensitive - your plants are too young to make it through the winter, but will do well for a while, until freeze. Next spring, plant your basil as soon as frost danger is past in early spring and the plants will mature a lot more by winter 2000 and have better chance of surviving winter freeze. LEMON THYME - an excellent, very flavorful plant that can root root fairly easily - be sure this plant is along the edge of the bed, or raised up (NOT in a depression) so that the water drains away, and does not pool around the stem - THYME - ditto APPLE MINT - mints do like a little more water to be the most productive - mints are extremely aggressive and invasive and are very heavy feeders, stripping the soil of nutrients as it grows and spreads. We have ahd the best luck corraling it by cutting the bottom off a 5-10 gallon plastic nursery tree or shrub container (so that it now looks like a long tube) - bury this inthe ground, with about a 2 inch lip sticking above and fill the center with enriched soil, with some general fertilizer added. Plant trhe mint plant in the middle, and be sure an emitter is cut through the side or otherwise reaches the center of the buried pot., The mints invasive underground rhizomes (stems) only go about 8-10 inches deep, so it cannot get loose in your garden, except if it escapes over the top lip of the pot. After about 1 year/1 season, you need to dig this out, pull out some rooted, healthy parts of the mint plant, toss the rest on your compost pile (it will be overgrown and stemmy and going downhill) - rebury the pot, refill wiith new rich soil and replant the salvaged rooted stems and go another year. OREGANO - likes moderate water and rarely root rots, but be sure it is not in a depression that will allow water to pond around the stem and crown as this will promote root rot. Lots and lots of different tatses and strengths of oregano - be sure that you like the tatse fresh and dried of the one you have before you go much further. We always tell people to taste the small plants first - if no good taste now, will not get better in your garden - taste likes & dislikes on this are very personal and vary from person to person. SAVORY - Summer Savory is a warm season annual (dies with winter frost), while the Winter savory is a long lived perennial plant. Both need water like the Oreganoes. MARJORAM - several different types of marjoram but they all respond and grow similar to the oreganoes. ITALIAN PARSELY - the parselys are technically biennial plants meaning they grow one full season as vegetation with leaves to harvest - the second spring, they go tto bloom, set seeds and die mid-summer. This is just the life of the plant and cannot be changed. We find often that transplanted nursery parsley planst will only last one year - bolting to bloom in late summer the first year. Planting parsley from seed direct in your garden usually has more success getting it to live the full 2 years. Higher water liker, so good output on htis herbs emitter. CHIVES - regular garden chives do well here all winter and spring, but in 99% of the gardens, they disappear in response to our summer heat and you have to replant when fall returns. Garlic Chives are a garlic tasting version that you can harvest for 11 months - in January they disappear into the ground, but the roots regrow in February and thhe clumps get bigger and healthier each year. SAGE - extremely prone to root rot. Very critical to be sure of good drainage. Dig a large, deep hole and back fill with gravel, sand, coarse barks, pebbles, etc. mixed in with the soil and then plant the plant. Absolutely NO depression to collect water or the sage plant will die. Evene with these precautions, many sage plants die in mid-late summer from stresss anyway - just be aware and replant. Be sure only one low volume dripper on the sage and that the emitter is away from the base of the plant - not right against the stem. ARUGULA - actually we do consider this a herb plant. Grows excellent all winter and the more you harvest the better it grows and produces. In spring, with heat the leaves can get hotter and bitter - your personal taste. Does like good water supply. Good Luck with your gardening Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener ************************** -----Original Message----- From: Jessica Turvey To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 6:57 PM Subject: RE: Responses to Your Questions Mike: Thank you for your prompt and very detailed response. Here are the answers to your questions: 1) The 2' X 6' herb plot is not raised bed. 2) The soil was amended with a blend of Home Depot's "Omni Mix," mulch and some manure. 3) I have put the following herbs into this garden: Basil (purple ruffle and green), lemon thyme, thyme, apple mint, oregano, savory, marjoram, Italian parsley, chives, sage, and a non-herb, arugula. You are right about the invasive nature of the eucalyptus tree. Maybe that explains why the flowering plants we put around the tree in the early spring have not done as well as expected. If you have any suggestions as to what might be more successful to plant there I would be interested in knowing. Thank you also for all of the herb book and association ideas. I would like to receive information from the AZ Herb Assoc. My mailing address is: Jessica Turvey 15632 South 17th Street, Phoenix, AZ 85048 I appreciate all your help! Sincerely, Jess T. ---------- From: Mike Hills Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 3:54 PM To: jess@cvweb.com Cc: arid gardener list; Arizona Herb Association Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Hello and thanks for the question - The specific watering requirements will differ depending on which herb species you planted. Some herb plants grow larger than others, and some are higher water users than other species. Also, the amount and system of water delivery will be effected by the type of soil in your herb garden. Did you amend the soil with organic matter, or are you using our native soil with its higher clay content? Is this a raised bed, or planted directly into your yard soil? Some herbs such as Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Sage are much more prone to root rot and should be planted in well drained soil and not receive too much water. Others such as Basil, Oregano, Lemongrass, Chiles, Sorrel, Mints, Lemon Balm, Gotu Kola, etc. like or at least tolerate extra water. Please let me know which specific herb plants you have planted and I will try to give you more detailed advice. Also email your mailing addresss and I will have the Arizona Herb Association mail you their info sheet on soil preparation and watering for herbs grown in The Valley. This local herb gardening club meets the first Thursday of each month (except for December) at 7 pm and meetings are either at the Palo Verde room at the Extension office, or are at the Community Room at the Pueblo Grande Museum. The telephone voice mail system and the website both will tell the meeting topic and the meeting location for each month. We welcome guests at our meetings - dues are $25 individual and $35 for a family per year - this includes meetings, monthly newsletter and discounts on many books available at our meetings and out monthly functions. You can check out information on the Arizona Herb Association and their upcoming meetings (some of the Spring meetings will have topics concerning soil and irrigation) by calling tel #602-470-8086 ext. 830 or checking our website at www.accessarizona.com/Community/Groups/AzHerb You may also want to go check out local herb demo gardens to get some ideas - we maintain a demonstration herb garden at the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 east Broadway Road AND we also advise the Desert Botanical Gardne on their herb demonstration garden. The Arizona Herb Association also has a great book published on growing herbs in this area "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" available for $10 including postage - mail to : Az Herb Assoc., P.O. Box 63101, Phoenix, AZ 85082 The Master Gardener Press has also published an excellent book for beginning gardeners in this area, and this book includes a section on herbs that may be helpful. "Desert Gardening for Beginners' by Cathy Cromell - send $10 check made out to University of Arizona - mail to: Master Gardener Program, Maricopa County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - OR, you can pick up the book at that office for $8.00 walk in. One thing to keep in mind under your Eucalyptus tree - keep the dropped leaves cleared away from the plants on a regular basis. Eucalyptus leaves do not mulch down very well and may also leach substances into the soil that slow growth of other plants. Eucalyptus trees also have extensive, invasive roots systems that often compete with other more shallow rooted plants making it difficult to grow other flowers and plants under these trees. You may have no problems, but please keep this in mind for later reference. ALSO, the October 22 issue of the Arizona Republic had a good article on planting and care of Fall Herbs in their Arizona Home and Gardening section. I believe you can access this article online at the Arizona Republic's website, or call them to order a back issue of the paper. Look forward to hearing back from you. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association, Phoenix ************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: jess@cvweb.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: > >Question #1: >Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. > >Question #2: >If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? > >Question #3: >Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? > >Thanks for your feedback! > >Jess T. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:37:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:37:14 -0700 From: Cathy Rymer crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Changes at the Arizona Republic For any subscribers to the list that read the Saturday edition of the Arizona Republic, there may be changes in the future of the AZ Desert GardenGuide section. The directive to the paper as a whole is provide shorter more consumer oriented articles. This may mean drastic changes in the current format of this section. U of A Master Gardener volunteers, agents, and local professionals may no longer be contributing articles. If you are happy with (or have suggestions for) the current presentation of local, research-based information that has been a part of the Arizona Republic garden section since March of this year, please let the paper know about it. Ms. Linda Vachata, The Arizona Republic, 200 East Van Buren, Phoenix, AZ 85001. Linda.Vachata@pni.com Email Your feedback is important to them in making decisions for the future of the AZ GardenGuide. Thanks for your attention. Cathy From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:06:27 EST Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:06:27 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hanging Planter Hi Paul, It sounds like your planter is tall and narrow (4ft high with inside width of 4 inches). I'm not quite sure where this watering tube is located and how it will function. The written word is sometimes difficult when it comes to describing something. I looked up the Mandevilla plant you mentioned. I don't find any species recommended for the low desert. Sunset puts us in zone 13 and it lists zones 21-24, 4-9 and 14-21 for your plant but these zones are never completely accurate. Your container sounds like it might be fun to do some experimenting with. I'd fill it with a premium quality potting soil that I premixed with some encapsulated time release fertilizer that will slowly leach out nutrients each time you water. I'd look for plants that will cascade over the sides to soften the appearance of the plastic pipe. Here is where the experimenting would begin for me. I haven't been in the valley very long so I'm sure others could suggest better plants but I'll give you some of my ideas anyway. I've wondered how maybe a ground cover like some of the lantanas might do as a cascading plant in a planter. How would one of the bright red bougainvillea vine type species do if allowed to cascade? These plants seem to be able to take our heat and are drought tolerant. Of course there are plants like verbena, trailing lobelia, sweet alyssum, nasturtiums etc. A lot depends on the season, what's available in the nurseries and how much you want to fuss. I'm trying sweet peas in one of my planters along with ivy leafed geraniums. Birds keep eating my lobelia. I'd just have fun trying things, just like you must have enjoyed making your planter. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/14/99 4:39:56 PM US Mountain Standard Time, uitti@primenet.com writes: << Subj: Hanging Planter Date: 11/14/99 4:39:56 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: uitti@primenet.com (Paul S. Uitti) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com Jean, Thanks for the interest in "my" hanging planter. I'll try to answer the questions you asked. 1. I can hang it in either full sun or full shade, but regardless, it'll get a lot of light. We have a large covered patio (about 15 feet by 65 feet). The patio faces south and on the east end is a vertical lattice work to form something of a room without a wall on the west end of this area. It's more of a privacy area ... good place to read or maybe even have a drink of something. Anyway, it's shady there, but it gets as warm as north Scottsdale gets during any season. I suppose the could reach a hundred or so in the summer, but we did have snow for a couple of days last winter. (Not too good a place to read or drink at that time of the year) 2. The planter is roughly 4 feet high and the inside diameter is 4 inches. Inside of the thing, I installed a 3/4 inch pipe (PVC) which I drilled 1/8 inch holes throughout for watering. 3. I used black PVC only because it was available in my garage, I could and probably will paint it white before I do anything with it. 4. We live in the north Scottsdale area, a mile or so north of Pinnacle peak and near the Troon Mountain. 5. I'm not fussy about annuals or perennials, I am willing to use either, but I would like color. If I lived in Michigan where I came from, I would probably try mandevilla for the summer, they are very showy and have good green leaves. I don't know if they would grow here, but they should, 'cause they originated in Mexico or somewhere south of here., I think. Anyway, thanks again for listening. Paul From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:53:19 EST Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:53:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Guidance requested Hi Lucy, I've not approved the last two administrative notices only cause I'm afraid to. The messages seem benign enough but I don't know where they are coming from. It sounds like they are using the wrong method and just need instruction as to how to reach the arid gardener general board. Do you have any guidelines or help in how I'm to make any decisions as to what to approve or not? Maybe I should be leaving the decisions to you? Seems we are getting fewer questions. Have we changed something that makes the board less accessible or is it just the season? Bye, Jean From ClaireASP@aol.com Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:07:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:07:44 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:21:30 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:21:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Claire: Perhaps I can help, I found Cercis reniformis in my copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book, which is the latest revised edition. It reads: Native to Southwest. Leaves leathery, blue green, 2-3 in. wide, with rounded or notched tips. Flowers as in C. canadensis (which lists flowers of rosy pink in early spring); variety 'Alba', with white flowers, is sold in West. I could not find a mention of height specific to this variety, however, C. canadensis grows 25-35 ft. tall. This was bothering me, I just HAD to find out more so I did a search of the Net and found the following website owned by New Mexico State University: http://weather-mirror.nmsu.edu/AbqPlantList/small/smalldec.htm They show a height to 25', but not much more information. Hope this helps a little! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Daisy@doitnow.com Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:54:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:54:35 -0700 (MST) From: Daisy@doitnow.com Daisy@doitnow.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are ornamental pear trees susceptible to Texas Root Rot? Can someone tell me what the watering schedule should be? I am suddenly responsible for a row of about fifteen ornamental pear trees, all with problems. The old ones have a lot of dead branches. The young one, planted this past spring and doing well until recently, have a lot of wilted and crispy leaves(new growth). There also is a white fuzzy growth (aphids?) on the petiols of many of the affected leaves. From eldol46307@aol.com Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:20:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:20:04 -0700 (MST) From: eldol46307@aol.com eldol46307@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We lost a Australian Bottle Tree; perhaps to Texas root rot. It died slowly, perhaps over several months. It never looked really good, now it looks really bad. We have several questions. How long do we have to take it out and still be able to tell what caused it to die? What do we need to take to a Nursery for them to evaluate cause of death? When is the best time to plant a replacement tree; now or in the spring? If it was Texas Root Rot, what kind of trees should we exclude from our choices? Thanks for much for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Larry and Gail From tate@dzn.com Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:05:32 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:05:32 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation I receive the following letter from a resent post from a John Poder (I think)and I have lost John's E-mail address. I don't understand what he means with 11/2 in his Example: A tree--. If possible, please redirect this E-mail to him. Dale, You can use this as a guide. As a rule, the roots of a tree will be in the first 3 feet of soil. A shrub or bush in the first 2 feet of soil. Accent plant ( low growing plants, flowers or veggies) are in the first 1 of soil. I like to bury my emitters half the depth of the roots of the plant being watered. Example: A tree would have the emitters 11/2 feet deep and be placed between 2/3 the distance between the trunk and canopy of the tree. I carry this through with all my plants remembering that the feeder roots are at the edge of the canopy and thats where the water should be. Using this procedure, water doesn't reach the top od the soil so any weed seed that may have blown in don't get watered and I have few if any weeds.I run the system for hours then let the soil dry out a bit before watering again. The result I've found is less water used because its into the root zone right a way and no weeds because the top of the soil stays dry. --- Dale Tate wrote> I use plastic T-tape to irrigate my ished. Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:09 EST Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Pear with problems Daisy, Yes the Evergreen Pear is very susceptible to Texas Root Rot. It is also subject to iron chlorosis and zinc deficiency as well as fireblight, crown gall, and root knot nematodes. Its problems are too multiple to make my favorite tree list. It is most important that trees growing in our low desert be deep watered, this means for most trees a watering depth of at least three feet, and a summertime interval of not less than one week and winter watering at three to four week intervals. Differing soil consistencies can change this somewhat. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.htm With the number of trees that you have to care for I would suggest that you contact a certified arborist for a course of action in caring for these trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:51 EST Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:51 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottled Tree Dying Larry and Gail, Yes the Bottle Tree is quite susceptible to Texas Root Rot, however the symptoms that you describe do not sound like Texas Root Rot where the tree collapses suddenly and the leaves hang on to the tree. The first thing that I would look at is the irrigation. Are you deep watering and what is the interval. Has there been any construction nearby? Have you applied any weed killer on grass or weeds? What about pool backwash water? Have you applied fertilizer and how much? How old is the tree? Is there caliche where the tree is planted? If you bring a sample of foliage to the U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix someone will try and give you an answer. If you will answer the questions I may be able to give you an answer on line. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Volunteer Master Gardener and Arborist From mastersgardener1@juno.com Sat, 20 Nov 1999 12:09:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 12:09:33 -0700 (MST) From: mastersgardener1@juno.com mastersgardener1@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system From lencleo@aol.com Sat, 20 Nov 1999 15:46:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 15:46:09 -0700 (MST) From: lencleo@aol.com lencleo@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 20 ft saguaro that has six arms and is growing three more, Last yr. the woodpeckers made a home in it.My question is in a few places there are huge brown spots,are they dead or is the catus sick. Thank you for your help. From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 10:18:06 -0700 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 10:18:06 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water System Installation You might try Tip Top Nurseries. They have short classes on Saturday mornings at their various locations. I went to the one last spring on drip water systems and it was very useful. I don't know if they still offer that class, but you might call them and find out. Ursula ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 12:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page | arid_gardener | Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system | | | | _______________________________________________ | Arid_gardener mailing list | Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu | http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener | From PatMertz@mail.maricopa.gov Sat, 20 Nov 1999 22:03:40 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 22:03:40 -0700 From: Pat Mertz - MCDOTX PatMertz@mail.maricopa.gov Subject: [Arid_gardener] sycamore trees I had a nursery plant a 24" box sycamore tree about a year ago. I missed a few deep waterings this past summer, but it was getting watered from my lawn sprinklers 3 mornings a week. All of the leaves on the tree have died and the ends of some of the branches are dry and brittle. The remaining portion of many of the branches seem to be "green", that is flexible and springy. Based on this info, do you think that the tree will be able to make a comeback this spring? If so, should I prune the dry and brittle portions of the branches? Thanks for any help you can offer. From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 21 Nov 1999 11:29:45 -0700 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 11:29:45 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Courses on Irrigation For a listing of classes offered in Maricopa County on gardening and landscaping see: The quickest way to find a particular topic is to go to the top of the web page. Click on "Edit" on the tool bar and select "Find in Page", you will be given a box to type in the particular topic (e.g. "irrigation") then click "Find Next". The cursor will proceed to the first place on the page with that word. Click "Find Next" again and it will move to the next spot all the way down the page. In this way you can identify all the courses that list irrigation in their description. At 12:09 PM 11/20/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 21 Nov 1999 14:42:18 -0700 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 14:42:18 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Heritage fund grant proposals due 11/30/99 --=====================_15691220==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Grant Proposals for Arizona Game and Fish Department Heritage Funds are due= =20 Nov. 30, 1999 Funds Available For 1999 Grant Cycle (FY 99-2000): Environmental Education=85.......................$35,600 Schoolyard Grants=85=85.............................$60,000 Urban Wildlife and Urban Wildlife Habitat...$246,000 for more information see Good Luck! Lucy Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/=20 --=====================_15691220==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Grant Proposals for Arizona Game and Fish Department Heritage Funds are due Nov. 30, 1999

Funds Available For 1999 Grant Cycle (FY 99-2000):

Environmental Education=85.......................$35,600

Schoolyard Grants=85=85.............................$60,000

Urban Wildlife and Urban Wildlife Habitat...$246,000

for more information see

<http://www.gf.state.az.us/frames/other/hert_inf.htm&= gt;


Good Luck!
Lucy

Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_15691220==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:53:31 -0700 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:53:31 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] FREE Composted Horse Manure in Central AZ FREE Composted Horse Manure available in Cave Creek, AZ Bring a truck and have it loaded for you, You are welcome to as much as you want. Call Perri at (480) 488-1034 to arrange a time for pick-up Location North on Cave Creek Road Past Lone Mountain Take the 4th Street past Ocupado It is paved and only goes West (Left) This ends on 48th St. where you will go Right On Desert Forest go Left Pavement ends on 46th Street Go right on 46th 'till the pavement ends You'll see Lacaballeriza. Pull up to the gate and wait Note, Just stick to the pavement and you'll make all the right turns Be sure to bring a tarp to cover the load to prevent it flying away!! Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From white@nwf.org Sat, 20 Nov 1999 16:07:03 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 16:07:03 -0700 From: Jean White white@nwf.org Subject: [AG] National Wildlife Federation on-line course to train Wildlife Habitat Stewards Habitat Stewards On-line! General Interest Inquiry Greetings! The National Wildlife Federation would like to offer an on-line course to train Habitat Stewards in the year 2000! Anyone can become a Habitat Steward! No prior knowledge is needed, only your enthusiasm for wildlife and the environment and willingness to help others. If you are already certified in the Backyard Wildlife Habitat program, this is a great choice for you- but being certified is not mandatory for the class. Habitat Stewards is the volunteer training and mentoring arm of the National Wildlife Federation's Backyard Wildlife Habitat program. Through the Backyard Wildlife Habitat program, NWF assists individuals, families, and organizations in discovering wildlife and connecting with nature through the creation of wildlife habitat, at home, school, and places of work, worship, and recreation. Those who meet the basic requirements of providing habitat are rewarded with national recognition through a certification process. Every certified Backyard Wildlife Habitat site has four basic elements needed by all species: food, water, cover, and places to raise young. To date, NWF has recognized over 25,000 individuals, families, and organizations through the national certification process. Once you have completed the on-line course, you will be capable of assisting others in your community in the creation or preservation of habitat for wildlife. Please take a moment to respond to the following questions so that we may best serve your needs: 1. Please list any groups or organizations at which you currently volunteer your time and expertise. How many hours per week do you volunteer? (a) 0-3 (b) 3-5 (c) 5-8 (d) 8-10 (e) 10-12 (f) 12- 15 (e) 15 or more 2. If you were given the option of taking a class on line, or attending the same class in person, which would you choose? 3. Have you ever taken an on-line course before? If yes, what types of courses have you taken? If no, would you ever take an on-line course? If no, why not? 4. What would motivate you to take an on-line course with NWF?(Choose all that apply) (a) Continuing Education Units (b) Graduate School credits (c) Undergraduate credits (d) Non-formal professional development (e) to learn more about the content area (f) to learn more about technology (g) Other, please specify: 5. How many hours a week would you spend in an online class? (a) none (b) .5-3 .5 (c) 3.5-7 (d) 7-11 (e) 11-15 (f) 15 or more (g) Other, please specify: 6. How many weeks would you participate at the above frequency? (a) none (b) 1- 3 (c) 4 - 7 (d) 7 - 10 (e) 11-14 (f) 15 or more (g) Other, please specify: 7. Describe your comfort level with using technology? (a) not comfortable (b) limited comfort (c) moderately comfortable (d) very comfortable 8)What time of year would you prefer to take an on-line training? (a) Jan-March (b) April-June (c) July-Aug. (d) Sept.-Dec. Is there a specific month that is best for you? Please specify: 9. Do you have a VCR in your home? 10. Do you have a personal computer in your home? 11. Do you have access to the Internet at home? At work? What speed is your modem connection? 12. Respondent information: Name: Age: Sex: Address: City/State: Profession: Part-time/Full-time/Self-employed/Retired/Other? PLEASE RESPOND TO JEAN WHITE AT: White@nwf.org Thank you! _____________________________________________________________ Have you seen our List Picks of The Week? Get Informed, Entertained, Enlightened at Topica. http://www.topica.com/t/7 From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:37:26 -0800 (PST) Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:37:26 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:39:36 -0800 (PST) Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:39:36 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:45:12 -0800 (PST) Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:45:12 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:12:09 EST Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:12:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Sycamore Trees with burned leaves Pat, It is important to deep water any tree planted in a turf area and especially the Sycamore during our hot summers. The grass had adequate water but the tree did not. If you have not already done so I suggest a deep watering now and once a month during the cooler weather. By deep watering we mean water that penetrates at least three feet deep. You can prune back the dead branches to a live side branch that is 1/3 the size of the main branch. If there is still green on the branches the tree is still alive and should survive if there are not other problems. The Sycamore is susceptible to Anthracnose fungi which will cause early leaf drop and twig die back. The leaves would have had brown irregular blotches on them. If this is the case be sure to dispose of all leaves and dead twigs and branches. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From emy_wa@aol.com Sun, 21 Nov 1999 18:05:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 18:05:48 -0700 (MST) From: emy_wa@aol.com emy_wa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My mother has a potted blue pseudopilocereus azureus which has reached a height of 7'. I am afraid the slender cactus will just fall over and someone will be hurt. I currently have a sling around it because the plastic pot is warping from the plant's weight. Is it too old (over 10 yrs)to transplant into the yard? Who would be a likely person to do the work? Are there buyers for such plants? Any info which you can give me will be greatly appreciated. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:14:26 EST Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:14:26 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Information about Texas Root Rot Hi, One of the best publications I've come across about Texas Root Rot is a Cooperative Extension Publication 192014 called diseases of Urban Plants in Arizona. It can be purchased from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe. The disease is difficult to fight, is frequently found in our alkaline soils, usually kills established trees during the hot summer months. The identification of the fungus (P. omnivorum) can be done by an expert with a hand lens. The cortical tissue of a rotted, decayed root is examined for the presence of mycelial strands on the surface of the cortical tissue. I doubt that the normal nursery person could make this determination. Someone from the extension office might be able to if you took a specimen there. The article I mentioned above does have a treatment described but says that the pathogen is so aggressive that it might not work. It would be worth a try though if you caught an infected tree in time to actually do something. The article says that monocot plants like palms, agave, yucca, bamboo's and many perennial ornamental grasses are immune. It says that many native dicots like Blue, foothills and sonaoran Palo Verde's are resistant but not immune. This list also includes the Chilean and Honey Mesquite, jojoha, desert willow and sweet acacia trees. A few non native trees have resistance as well, like Mulberry, Aleppo pine and citrus trees. The publication would be very informative and more complete. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/19/99 8:47:29 AM US Mountain Standard Time, eldol46307@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/19/99 8:47:29 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: eldol46307@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We lost a Australian Bottle Tree; perhaps to Texas root rot. It died slowly, perhaps over several months. It never looked really good, now it looks really bad. We have several questions. How long do we have to take it out and still be able to tell what caused it to die? What do we need to take to a Nursery for them to evaluate cause of death? When is the best time to plant a replacement tree; now or in the spring? If it was Texas Root Rot, what kind of trees should we exclude from our choices? Thanks for much for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Larry and Gail >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:25 EST Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:25 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Possible Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro Hi, Hopefully someone with more experience with Saguaro will pick up your question to answer. Your description brought to mind Cooperative Extension publication 8837 called Control of Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro. I'll give some of the symptoms for your comparison. If there is a match I'd get this publication from the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe or post a question to the arid_gardener asking for the control of this disease. Symptoms: They may appear at one or more positions on the trunk or branches of saguaros at any time. The first external indicators of bacterial necrosis are usually a circular darkening and softening of the plant tissues. In time, the infected area usually enlarges, becoming purplish-black, and splits open. If such an opening occurs, a dark odoruous material will freqauently "leak" from the plant. At other times, the soft areas dry and crack, revealing the dark, dry remains of disseased tissues. If conditions are favorable, the plant can confine the disease to a "pocket" by forming a barrier of protective tissue (callus) around the affected area. If this tissue does not rapidly form or if it is breached in some way, the infection will spread. Thus, there is no way to predict how long a plant might survive following the occurrence of such symptoms. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/21/99 9:13:46 AM US Mountain Standard Time, lencleo@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/21/99 9:13:46 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: lencleo@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a 20 ft saguaro that has six arms and is growing three more, Last yr. the woodpeckers made a home in it.My question is in a few places there are huge brown spots,are they dead or is the catus sick. Thank you for your help. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:27 EST Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:27 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Cercis Reniformis (Oklahoma Redbud) Hi, I found one short mention the C. reniformis (Oklahoma Redbud) in the American Horticultgural Society Encyclopedial of Garden Plants. What I found is as follows: 'Oklahoma' has waxy, glossy,richy green leaves with rounded tips and dark wine red flowers. 15 ft by 15 ft zones 6-9. The zones were not identified as to whose so I think that info is meaningless. It could be the American Horticultural Societyies Plant Heat Zones but several zonal maps were in the book and I didn't find the key to what was being used in the article. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/18/99 6:21:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time, ClaireASP@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/18/99 6:21:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: ClaireASP@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. _______________________________________________ >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:29 EST Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:29 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Tree information Hello, The county extension office has a number of publications on Citrus. They can be purchased from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe, AZ. I believe if you actually go to the office you can have a certain number of publications free. Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC17 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona 8670 Low Desert Citrus Varieties MC87 Many Nurseries also carry a selection of books, like Sunset's Citrus book that you might find useful. One thing I found interesting about citrus fruit is that it doesn't sweeten once picked off the tree. It has an optimum time to be picked regardless of its color -- the time it will be the sweetest. The chart I saw for several different varieties of Grapefruit listed Late November thru May. Do you know which variety you have? I picked some white grapefruit from a friends tree last summer that were very good. I understand they sometimes have overlapping crops on a grapefruit, that is some of the old ones are still on the plant while the new crop is developing. We have several citrus people who answer questions on the arid_gardener, perhaps one will find your question and give you additional information. If you get a chance I'd try to ask the last owner of your property some information about the grapefruit tree. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/14/99 3:38:14 PM US Mountain Standard Time, sandstrom.family@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/14/99 3:38:14 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. thank you From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:44:54 -0800 (PST) Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:44:54 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Dale,On a full grown tree place the emitters at least two thirds the distance from the trunk of thetree to the canopy edge. I would place enough emitters around the tree as to water the perimeter ( about every 3-4 feet). In the case of a new,small tree,I would make a spiral with the 1/2 inch poly starting from the farthest edge of the canopy when the tree will be full grown and spiral the tube around the tree to where the canopy is now placing emitters where the future roots will be. This will eliminate moving the drip system as the tree grows and keep the soil moist for the new roots to grow in. --- Dale Tate wrote: > At 05:57 PM 11/22/99 -0800, you wrote: > >1/2 that distance or 11/2 foot deep. In the case of > a > Sorry about that. Sometime mail goes out before it's > edited. This version > may read better. > > > John, > > I finally figured out that you meant 1 and 1/2 foot > deep which would be one > half the 3 foot root zone for a tree. Just did not > comprehend what 11/2 > feet deep which to me meant 5 and 1/2 food deep. > > Now the fact is I have a pecan tree about 37 years > old and I certainly > can't dig a eighteen trench around the circumference > of a tree at or near > the drip line. What I can do is place the source > line just below the turf > about 1 inch deep, then drill a hole eighteen inches > deep and drop a lead > weighted dripper off the main line attached to a > micro tubing into each > hole. The soil is rather sandy but at that depth is > rather compacted. > > What would be your best guess as to how far apart > these dripper in the > holes should be and would just one circle of dripper > be sufficient. > > Sorry John, just never had any experience > installing drip system. You know > even a small tree, say with say a six foot canopy is > likely to grow. Does > one keep adding circles of drippers. > > Happy Holidays > > > > Dale Tate > 5305 Anchorage Ave. > El Paso,TX 79924 > > http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html > 915.751.3879 > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:33:29 -0700 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:33:29 -0700 From: Walter Morrow wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers The original poster buries drip system emitters halfway down into the root zone; e.g. for a tree with a 3' root zone he would place the emitters 1.5' down. My question is, does the moisture move up as well as down through the soil? How well does the soil above those emitters get wet? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:02:55 -0800 (PST) Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:02:55 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Walter, I have found that in establishing a running time for the system that the soil is evenly wet around an emitter. As an example if I run the system for lets say one half hour, it will wet an area about the size of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the watering time so that the top inch or two of soil stays dry, you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less work. I have been doing this for years with good success. --- Walter Morrow wrote: > arid_gardener > The original poster buries drip system emitters > halfway down into the root > zone; e.g. for a tree with a 3' root zone he would > place the emitters 1.5' > down. My question is, does the moisture move up as > well as down through the > soil? How well does the soil above those emitters > get wet? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:39:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:39:55 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do the buried emitters plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a porous material around the buried emitters? Olin Miller john peder on Tuesday, November 23, 1999 3:02 PM wrote: Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > Walter, I have found that in establishing a running > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet around > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for lets > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the size > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the watering > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays dry, > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less work. > I have been doing this for years with good success. From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:14:26 -0800 (PST) Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:14:26 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers First of all, I don't put the emitter at the end of the 1/4 inch tubing. I put it into the 1/2 inch poly then plug the 1/4 inch tubing into the emitter. I dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to set, not push the tube into place and just backfill with soil. Keep in mind the drip system is working with about 30 psi and is enough to wet the soil and not plug up. I have systems that are 10-15 years old and with the normal maintainance needed for a drip system,(flushing once in a while) they are still working perfectly. --- Olin Miller wrote: > arid_gardener > Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do > the buried emitters > plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a > porous material around > the buried emitters? > Olin Miller > > john peder on > Tuesday, November 23, > 1999 3:02 PM wrote: > Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > > Walter, I have found that in establishing a > running > > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet > around > > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for > lets > > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the > size > > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the > watering > > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays > dry, > > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less > work. > > I have been doing this for years with good > success. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:19:08 -0800 (PST) Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:19:08 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers I use standard pressure compensating emitters and just push the regular soil back into the hole, not amended --- Olin Miller wrote: > Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do > the buried emitters > plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a > porous material around > the buried emitters? > Olin Miller > > john peder on > Tuesday, November 23, > 1999 3:02 PM wrote: > Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > > Walter, I have found that in establishing a > running > > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet > around > > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for > lets > > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the > size > > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the > watering > > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays > dry, > > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less > work. > > I have been doing this for years with good > success. > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From WA2MGE@MPINET.NET Wed, 24 Nov 1999 16:54:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 16:54:58 -0700 (MST) From: WA2MGE@MPINET.NET WA2MGE@MPINET.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I LIVED IN ROSWELL, N.M. UNTIL JUNE 1998, WHEN I MOVED TO FLORIDA. DURING MY RESIDENCE IN N.M., I WAS FORTUNATE TO HAVE AVAILABLE A PRODUCE PRODUCT CALLED "ARIZONA LEMONS" THESE LEMONS WERE TWICE THE SIZE OF COMMON LEMONS, BUT PERFECTLY FORMED LEMONS, THEY HAD A GREAT TASTE, AND A CLEAR, FIRM, AND THICK SKIN, AND WERE NOT WHAT IS COMMONLY CALLED "PONDEROSA LEMONS", WHICH ARE DISTORTED AND HAVE AN ODD SKIN. MY QUESTION, WHAT IS THE VARIETY OF THE SO CALLED "ARIZONA LEMON", AND CAN IT BE OBTAINED BY SOMEONE IN FLORIDA, FOR PLANTING IN A BACKYARD CITRUS GROVE? HOPING THAT YOU CAN HELP ME, THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORT. From mehunter7@aol.com Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:48:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:48:09 -0700 (MST) From: mehunter7@aol.com mehunter7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it too late to plant wildflower seeds? From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:55:59 -0700 Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:55:59 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemons Lisbon Lemon, Eureka & Ponderosa are the standard lemons in the Phoenix area. They are more resistent to several problems that we don't want in the citrus here. Meyer is not permitted because of disease problems. Meyer holds better on the trees and was very popular in the past. The fruit on all, except Ponderosa is listed as medium size. I notice that even on the same tree, the size can be very variable. People growing fruit will often give, or sell their very largest fruit for a premium of money or respect. This year my grapefruit has fewer fruit on it and several fruits are nearly the size of pumpkins. On Wed, 24 Nov 1999 16:54:58 -0700 (MST) WA2MGE@MPINET.NET writes: >arid_gardener >I LIVED IN ROSWELL, N.M. UNTIL JUNE 1998, WHEN I MOVED TO FLORIDA. >DURING MY RESIDENCE IN N.M., I WAS FORTUNATE TO HAVE AVAILABLE A >PRODUCE PRODUCT CALLED "ARIZONA LEMONS" THESE LEMONS WERE TWICE THE >SIZE OF COMMON LEMONS, BUT PERFECTLY FORMED LEMONS, THEY HAD A GREAT >TASTE, AND A CLEAR, FIRM, AND THICK SKIN, AND WERE NOT WHAT IS >COMMONLY CALLED "PONDEROSA LEMONS", WHICH ARE DISTORTED AND HAVE AN >ODD SKIN. MY QUESTION, WHAT IS THE VARIETY OF THE SO CALLED "ARIZONA >LEMON", AND CAN IT BE OBTAINED BY SOMEONE IN FLORIDA, FOR PLANTING IN >A BACKYARD CITRUS GROVE? HOPING THAT YOU CAN HELP ME, THANKS FOR YOUR >EFFORT. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From rccrash@gateway.net Thu, 25 Nov 1999 18:03:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 18:03:46 -0700 (MST) From: rccrash@gateway.net rccrash@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have left my front lawn unwatered for the last two summers and I have never overseeded with rye grass since I have lived in my house (in downtown Phoenix)over the last six years. This next summer I wish to grow a nice healthy front lawn with bermuda grass. I do not wish to purchase sod, I wish to condition my lawn appropriate for planting seed. I have been searching the web to find some answers, but to no avail. Can you give me some direction in a step by step format starting from the time of year to prepare soil, what chemicals to use, and seeding process? From m3k9@webtv.net Sat, 27 Nov 1999 06:14:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 06:14:24 -0700 (MST) From: m3k9@webtv.net m3k9@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Birdhouse Gourds I have a garden full of hugh birdhouse gourds. The seed pk says not to harvest until they are tan in color.They are staying green. The vines are still thriving, despite abit of frost bite. Should I continue waiting for them to change color, or pick them.? I live in South Tempe. Thank you. From earathbun@earthlink.net Fri, 26 Nov 1999 19:28:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 19:28:16 -0700 (MST) From: earathbun@earthlink.net earathbun@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper? From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 26 Nov 1999 07:51:33 -0700 Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 07:51:33 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: wildflower seeds/LATE November no, but water them a couple of times a week, at first and fertilize them LIGHTLY with ammonium nitrate when they are several inches high and they'll catch up to the earlier planted ones. On Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:48:09 -0700 (MST) mehunter7@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Is it too late to plant wildflower seeds? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 27 Nov 1999 11:45:49 EST Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 11:45:49 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Gourds Hi, There is a SW gourd Association that meets 7:00 PM on the 3rd Wed of the month at the Maricopa County Extension Office 4341 East Broadway Tempe. The person to contact is Frank Martin (602) 470-1556 ext 1010. I'm sure he can answer your question. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/27/99 7:51:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time, m3k9@webtv.net writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/27/99 7:51:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: m3k9@webtv.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Re: Birdhouse Gourds I have a garden full of hugh birdhouse gourds. The seed pk says not to harvest until they are tan in color.They are staying green. The vines are still thriving, despite abit of frost bite. Should I continue waiting for them to change color, or pick them.? I live in South Tempe. Thank you. >> From kberg@uswest.net Sat, 27 Nov 1999 14:23:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 14:23:18 -0700 (MST) From: kberg@uswest.net kberg@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This week the frost got to parts of my tomato plants. Should I leave the dead leaves on or prune them? The fruit seems to be ok at this point. From HELMJ100@JUNO.COM Sat, 27 Nov 1999 15:59:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 15:59:00 -0700 (MST) From: HELMJ100@JUNO.COM HELMJ100@JUNO.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a drip system for our new yard. Now that the weather has cooled off, how much time should I be watering plants such as ground morning glory, green cloud, red fairy duster, red yucca, red salvia and verbena? What about Pyracantha, Lady's bank Rose and Hardenbergia? Then we do have some lawn, but will not overseed this winter. 2 trees - 1 Palo Verde and 1 Australian Bottle Brush Tree. Because we have never had a landscaped yard before, I am at a loss and landscape person not very helpful, now that the job is done. Thanks for your help. From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Sat, 27 Nov 1999 16:27:47 -0800 (PST) Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 16:27:47 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you start now, by late spring you could have the lawn of your dreams.STEP 1--If you have a sprinkler system soak the soil so its moist to a depth of 7-8 inches While your at it, put flags by each sprinler head so they don't get damaged. STEP--2 Apply 1/2 to 1 inch of gypsum and 3-4 inches of mulch on top the soil and till it in to a depth of 7-8 inches. A rear tine tiller is easier to use. STEP--3A If you don't have a sprinkler system, now is the time to install one as the soil is all loose to a depth of 8 inches. STEP --4 Rake the soil as level as you can and with a lawn roller 1/2 filled with water, roll the soil in two directions. this will leave areas that did not get compacted by the roller and they should be filled in. These low spots could cause diseases in the lawn later so get the lawn area level. When late spring arrives, spread your seed, cover it with manure,sand,soil or anything not too course and water it. PRESTO!! summer lawn. --- rccrash@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have left my front lawn unwatered for the last two > summers and I have never overseeded with rye grass > since I have lived in my house (in downtown > Phoenix)over the last six years. This next summer I > wish to grow a nice healthy front lawn with bermuda > grass. I do not wish to purchase sod, I wish to > condition my lawn appropriate for planting seed. I > have been searching the web to find some answers, > but to no avail. Can you give me some direction in > a step by step format starting from the time of year > to prepare soil, what chemicals to use, and seeding > process? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. All in one place. Yahoo! Shopping: http://shopping.yahoo.com From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 27 Nov 1999 09:57:29 -0700 Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 09:57:29 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: gourds Make sure they aren't lying in direct contact with soil. Air needs to circulate to prevent fungus damage to the shell. Why not pick half and leave half so you will know which gives you the best product for other years? And let the rest of us know the results of your experiment. I've just picked them when they looked pleasing to me and been happy every time. They tend to become more and more beige over time, no matter when you pick them. With luffas, it is best to pick them just as they begin to turn yellowish because the skin is easiest to peel before it is completely dry. And I find the sponge more clean looking that way too. Store them with the bottom (largest end) down and the seeds drop out as they dry. These sponges make great paint "rags" for texturing walls or paint designs. They don't absorb paint and need less cleaning since they are just the right price when you raise them in your garden. On Sat, 27 Nov 1999 06:14:24 -0700 (MST) m3k9@webtv.net writes: >arid_gardener >Re: Birdhouse Gourds >I have a garden full of hugh birdhouse gourds. The seed pk says not >to harvest until they are tan in color.They are staying green. The >vines are still thriving, despite abit of frost bite. Should I >continue waiting for them to change color, or pick them.? I live in >South Tempe. Thank you. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 27 Nov 1999 09:49:18 -0700 Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 09:49:18 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] evergreens in Tucson My choice would be rosemary! It looks like an evergreen, year round, has no disease problems, uses less water and looks best with very little pruning. The upright variety grows 3 or 4 feet high, making a fine natural hedge. The prostrate variety will be 12 to 18 inches high, making a fine ground cover. In the cool season, it will have pale blue or white flowers. If you step on any part of it, it smells delightful. It gets spider mites occasionally which are controlled with a spray of water. You won't find anything that will thrive with so little trouble! My prostrate rosemary even has flowers through parts of the summer (it gets noon day sun for about 6 hours west of my home near Phoenix). Rosemary will take sun or shade (more compact in sun) ~ sun is advised but it will survive indoors for years in a sunny window in northern homes (I think indoor sunny window equal to shade in Arizona). I am fond of Juniper but many people equate Juniper to high desert weeds. Other pine type evergreens will use large amounts of water in hot desert dry wind. If you want a tall pine = Aleppo would be my choice. On Fri, 26 Nov 1999 19:28:16 -0700 (MST) earathbun@earthlink.net writes: >arid_gardener >I would like to add some color and seasonal interest to my father's >landscape in Tucson. He has a southern exposure with a drip irrigation >system, and "no" evergreen plant material. (He needs very low >maintenance plants that don't require excess pruning.) Are there any >compact evergreens, or even perennials that might stay evergreen which >he could grow? Are there pines, or juniper that are visually >interesting (either colorful, or offer a contrasting texture to other >deciduous plants) that I could select for him? How does Gold Euonymus >grow there, Blue Star Juniper, Gold, or Compressed Juniper? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From mmmbradley@redrivernet.com Sun, 28 Nov 1999 09:31:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 09:31:58 -0700 (MST) From: mmmbradley@redrivernet.com mmmbradley@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. Are there only certain times of year that I can trim pigmy date palms. Mine is young and I trim the lower fronds so they are laying on the ground a couple of times a year. 2. What can I do to assure success with a joshua tree? I live in the foothills of Lake Havasu City. I need something with height to balance my home. There is little landscaping in the front of my home because the pool is in front. I am having fun leaving most of the back of my home (upward sloping) as is with black rock, creosote, etc. and am only planting xeriscape items. From RFIGOR@NETSCAPE.NET Sun, 28 Nov 1999 11:03:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 11:03:08 -0700 (MST) From: RFIGOR@NETSCAPE.NET RFIGOR@NETSCAPE.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page WOULD YOU PLEASE RESPOND WITH THE PROPER FEEDING AND WATERING FOR THE FOLLOWING TREES: 1. JUJUBE TREE 2. PERSIMON TREE From wardy@uswest.net Sun, 28 Nov 1999 12:34:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 12:34:48 -0700 (MST) From: wardy@uswest.net wardy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I get rid of gophers? From R2BESHON@aol.com Sun, 28 Nov 1999 16:02:10 -0700 Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 16:02:10 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost as a rule i cover all my flowers when frost warnings are out, however is it necessary? do i need to cover geraniums, pansies, dianthas, and petunias? r2beshon@aol.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 28 Nov 1999 19:14:54 -0700 Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 19:14:54 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: clarification needed on planting zones (Lengthy) ---- Original Message ----- > > > >There are times when a MG, including myself, refer to plant zones. Now that > >I know a little more I find USDA, Sunset, Extension publications, American > >Horticultural Society, etc., give different numbers to our area. I run into > >statements like the following. Tempe is given a heat zone ranking of 11 by > >the American Horticultural Society. "That means that a canna which is ranked > >USDA Zones 7 to 11 for cold and Zones 12 to 1 for heat should thrive there." > >(quote taken from national home garden publication) I don't know about others > >but I could certainly use some clarification -- maybe part of a MG update > >meeting. Recently a MG gave an answer of a plant zone of 9 for this area. > >Who gave this zone number? How do our clients (for want of a better name) > >interpret this number if we do not identify the source. Don't you think we > >need some kind of identification and standardization to our zone answers? > The author of the above forwarded post makes a good point in that when asking questions about plants, one should state the location and, if the plant zone is given, indicate which zone system it refers to. There is a world of difference between USDA zone 9, Sunset zone 9, and Heat-Zone 9. The USDA zones only indicate the cold hardiness which doesn't indicate if the plant is adapted otherwise. The AHS Heat-Zones only indicate the plant's tolerance to heat. None of the zones take into account environmental factors such as stress due to pollution, security lighting an toxic wastes; increased plant vigor due to improved management systems; or stresses due to planting in artificial environments (malls, freeways, next to buildings). The zone ratings are not perfect but are a good place to begin. To review my understanding of the zone ratings: USDA PLANT HARDINESS ZONES The current map of the USDA Plant Hardiness Zones is the 1990 version which is based on the average of the lowest temperatures recorded for each of the years 1974 to 1986. The map shows 11 zones: Zone 1 represents temperature lows below -50 degrees F, zone 11 represents lows above +40 degrees F (essentially frost-free). Zones 2 through 10 are each divided into 10 degree zones, then further divided into two 5 degree sub zones, designated "a" and "b", but plant listings don't use the sub zones. The low desert in Maricopa County falls into zone 9b (25-30 Deg. F). Some of the outlying areas (called the "colder valley locations" by the TV weather people) are in zone 9a. Mountain areas within the county (Bradshaws, New River Mountains, Matzatals and White Tanks) would be in colder zones and are not suitable for gardening but are interesting for the study of native plants. The best map I have found on the web is at the National Arboretum at http://www.ars-grin.gov/ars/Beltsville/na/hardzone/hzm-sw1.htm . There is also a zone finder at the Time-Life Virtual Garden at http://www.vg.com/cgi-bin/v2/gemag/PID=69909416995854636609308,09308&s=4 536 which requires you the enter your postal zip code, then returns your zone number. It puts Wickenburg, Cave Creek/Carefree, New River and Black Canyon City in Zone 9 - one would expect these to be in zone 8 - so use with discretion. The land grant universities in some states (e.g., FL and TX) have web sites with maps showing county boundaries which are overlaid with the plant hardiness map showing the zone boundaries within the counties. This improves the resolution. I am not aware of such an overlay map of AZ. Following is a list of the low temperature ranges for each zone and sub zone: USDA Zone Temperature Range ======= ========== 1 Below -50 F 2a -50 to -45 F 2b -45 to -40 F 3a -40 to -35 F 3b -35 to -30 F 4a -30 to -25 F 4b -25 to -20 F 5a -20 to -15 F 5b -15 to -10 F 6a -10 to -5 F 6b -5 to 0 F 7a 0 to 5 F 7b 5 to 10 F 8a 10 to 15 F 8b 15 to 20 F 9a 20 to 25 F 9b 25 to 30 F 10a 30 to 35 F 10b 35 to 40 F 11 above 40 F SUNSET ZONES The Sunset zones, established by Sunset Books, are the most useful for the Western states. The zones consider winter lows, summer highs, length of growing season, humidity, rainfall patterns, latitude, elevation, continental air influence, and local terrain. The zones assigned to the plant listings in the Plant Encyclopedia of the Sunset Western Garden book are a pretty reliable indication of the plant's adaptation. One limitation is it only lists plants in common use at the time of the book's latest printing (1995 in this case) and the numerous subsequent plant introductions are not listed. The Phoenix metropolitan area lies in zone 13 - some of the surrounding areas in Maricopa County are in zone 12. To find your Sunset zone, go to url http://sunsetmag.com/Reference/GardenRef/ZoneFinder.html and fill in the from. AHS HEAT ZONES The American Horticultural Society has developed a USA Plant Heat-Zone Map that assigns geographical zones of plant tolerance to heat. The AHS plant heat-zones complement USDA plant cold-hardiness zones and Sunset climatic zones as an additional aid in plant selection for a given region. As gardeners know, not all plants that are cold-hardy in USDA zone 9 (Phoenix AZ) can withstand our intense summer heat; it follows that not all plants that are heat-tolerant in the new AHS heat-zone will also withstand the coldest days in USDA zone 9. The map defines 12 color-coded zones based on the number of heat-days occurring annually in each zone. A heat-day occurs when the temperature exceeds 86 degrees F. The temperature 86 degrees F was chosen because (according to AHS) plant cellular proteins are damaged - a few years of observation in the Phoenix AZ area suggests this breakdown occurs at a higher temperature because many of our desert plants seem to prosper well into the 90s. The temperatures used to establish the heat-zones are the 22-year statistical averages recorded from 1974 through 1995. AHS members can download the map from the AHS website but nonmembers need to either buy the map or the book (see www.ahs.org for links). The book, "Heat-Zone Gardening" contains a picture gallery, with the temperature profiles, of 460 landscape plants and herbs. One hundred twenty-five of these plants meet the criteria for both the USDA and AHS zones for Phoenix. The profiles list only the genus and does not provide any details for plants with temperature tolerances that are species dependent. There are also a number of plants that are pretty easy to grow here (Phoenix AZ) that do not meet the heat-zone criteria for Phoenix. Possibly the best use of the heat-zone ratings for our area is to help identify plants that are marginally adapted. Existing Sunset zone ratings appear to be more useful for our desert climate than either the USDA or AHS zones. Olin, near Phoenix AZ USDA Zone 9b Sunset Zone 13 AHS Heat-Zone 11 (or 12 - difficult to tell from the map) From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 28 Nov 1999 07:04:23 -0700 Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 07:04:23 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Frost protection If you can provide frost protection, prune; if you can't provide frost protection you might want to pull the plants and hang upside down in a warm place to allow all strength to go into the fruit. Near Phoenix, it doesn't take much protection in some winters to keep tomatoes going till warmer weather. I had ripe cherry tomatoes one year in February with only the shelter of a dead coccozzi squash vine. One man in my community garden has wrapped that thick row cover around tubes of reinforcing wire, leaving the tops open unless it gets really cold. (then he covers the tops with plastic). I'm trying this system for cucumbers this year. A couple of clear bottles of water near the plants would also store heat. (they need to be north of the plant so they don't burn the tissues like a magnifying lens during the day) A couple of wall-o-waters can be staked around the sides of a plant in an oval................. even a big bucket of water could help............... On Sat, 27 Nov 1999 14:23:18 -0700 (MST) kberg@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >This week the frost got to parts of my tomato plants. Should I leave >the dead leaves on or prune them? The fruit seems to be ok at this >point. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From Dkaplan765@aol.com Sun, 28 Nov 1999 20:50:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 20:50:09 -0700 (MST) From: Dkaplan765@aol.com Dkaplan765@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to find an efficient way to keep cats from using my vegetable garden as a toilet. I have placed broken pumice stone all over which supposedly hurts their foot pads, I have sprayed pepper/garlic sprays all over (which just rinses right over when the sprinkler comes on) all to no avail. What do you suggest? They are destroying flowers & vegetables besides the unsanitation aspect. From alan35@goodnet.com Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:31:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:31:09 -0700 (MST) From: alan35@goodnet.com alan35@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve this fantastic plant. Thanks for any help you can provide. Alan WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page http://thewall-usa.com From foxgray@uswest.net Mon, 29 Nov 1999 08:44:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 08:44:31 -0700 (MST) From: foxgray@uswest.net foxgray@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the disadvantages to having a desert landscape? We wanted to put rocks in our front yard, but someone told us that it brings scorpions, snakes and things like that. Is that true? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:23 EST Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:23 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Frost sensative annuals Pansies can handle temps down to the low twenties, however the geraniums, dianthus and petunias should be covered when the weather forecast is for freezing temperatures. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:26 EST Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:26 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Gophers I've had excellent results in getting rid of gophers with highway flares. Just dig out the hole enough so that the flare can be inserted into the hole, light the flare, insert it into the hole and refill the hole with dirt. Flares can be purchased at auto parts stores such as Checker or Auto Zone. Good luck. Rod From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:23:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:23:44 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] New Summer Lawn Question Hello - seeded bermudas have come a long way in the last few years, so you have a lot of new options for planting seed on your lawn next spring. The main key will be preparation and you have all winter and early spring to work on that. The more you can work and improve the soil and lawn seed bed now, the more years the lawn will grow healthy before it starts to compact againb from traffic, etc. Second key to a new bermuda lawn is soil temperature - very critical to have a soil tmeperature over 60 degrees before putting the bermuda seed down. You can estimate daytime soil temperture based on the nighttime air temperature for a couple of weeks - usually we tell people to wait until mid-April most years (1999 we had a cool spring so bermuda seed did not germinate until mid-May). Another key factor will be regular irrigation so it would be a good time to update or repair your existing sprinkler system or install a new one. Correct irrigation can make a huge difference in your success with a lawn area. ALSO, analyze your yard for shade versus sun - grass grows in sun and all grass needs a minimum of 6 hours good sunlight each day for healthy grow. Bermuda has no tolerance for shade and will die out very fast after planting, if you have old shade trees or tall buildings that do not let the sun in. You can sometimes correct any excess shade by proper pruning of your trees to move the canopy upwards and proper thinning to allow more sunlight through - you may want to contact a certified arborist for help with this. If you have too much shade and bermuda will not be an option, then several other "grasses" can be used as substitutes with some success: "Turf Tall Fescue" (Plant Now!!), "Dichondra" (plant in early spring) or "Zoysia" (plant by sprigs, plugs or seed next spring). Start incorporating organic matter into your turf soil now, along with some gypsum to help loosen the compacted soil. You want well composted, weed free organic matter - store bought mulch/compost, homemade compost, composted manure, bulk mulch from one of the bulk firms listed in the yellow pages, etc. Should add 4 inches minimum up to 6 or even 8 inches of organic matter and till this into the top 8-12 inches of soil, along with the gypsum. If you do this at least 2 months before seeding next spring, it will give the new soil a chance to settle and for any remaining weed seeds to sprout and be removed. You can also till in some starter fertilizer (high in phosphorous for root system development) - usually at a rate of a couple pounds per 1,000 square feet - this is important for the long term health of the turf as it promotes a strong root system and phosphorous will stay active and available in the soil for long periods. When temperatures are right next spring, you need to get your bermuda eed - many different brands and varieties now available from the local Valley nurseries and garden centers. Look for the word "certified" on the package to tell you this is an actual improved variety of bermuda seed, rather than just a fancy branded name for common bermuda. If the package label says a fancy name, but also includes the words "Variety Not Stated" or "VNS" then it is just Common bermuda seed which is o.k., but not as uniform and high quality as the actual turf-type bermudas. Look for certified varieties or blends such as "Bermuda Triangle Blend", "Primo Bermuda Blend", "Blackjack", "Sonesta", "Primavera", "Certified Ewing Bermuda Blend", "Sahara", "Primavera", "Sultan", "Yuma", etc. You will need about 2 pounds of seed per 1,000 square feet - so not plant more seed, as too thick a planting can lead to disease in the young seedlings. Measure your turf area, and figure your square footage. You should buy about 20% extra seed to hold back for repairs in case of irrigation wash-outs or other problems. As long as the seed is kept dry and fairly cool it will keep for a couple of years. Once the soil temperature (or night air temp.) is warm enough next spring, rake the improved soil surface to loosen and remove any sprouted weeds or debris. Broadcast the seed, going in two directions to get good coverage. Cover the seed lightly (1/4 inch maximum) with clean mulch or compost to hold moisture. Start irrigating - first few weeks at 2-4 times per day for 5-10 minutes each time (just to moisten the soil, but not wet enough to start to run off and puddle). Then when seeds are well sprouted, start reducing the number of watering times, while lengthening the water duration for establishing a deeper healthier root system. You should end up at about 6-8 weeks with established turf plants, that you are watering every 3-5 days for about 1/2 to 1 inch of water each time. You would start mowing 3-4 weeks after the seeds start to sprout - mow the first time with a very sharp mower and only cut off 1/3 of the leaf surface. Make sure that the grass is fairly dry the first mowing, by withholding watering the day before - that way the grass leaves will mow better and your mower won't be making ruts in the mud. Usually the first fertilizing is done shortly after the first mowing. A balanced turf fertilizer, available at any garden center or nursery, does the best job - especially if it is a "timed release" or "slow release" product. Apply at manufacturers recommended rate on the package. The seeded bermudas do best maintained at a 1 - 1 1/2 inch mowing weight, although some projects have had good results at 1/2 inch for a tighter turf surface. Mowing frequency will depend on your care level - more water & fertilizer means more frequent mowing. Generally with moderate care, the seeded bermudas can be mowed once every 5-7 days - never remove more than 1/3 of the grass leaf at any one time, that is the key. Hope this helps. If you get any more questions, please feel free to ask. Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Mike Hills Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales Seed Research of Oregon Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 email mhills_sro@msn.com WEB www.sroseed.com *********************************************** -----Original Message----- From: rccrash@gateway.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Friday, November 26, 1999 8:31 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have left my front lawn unwatered for the last two summers and I have never overseeded with rye grass since I have lived in my house (in downtown Phoenix)over the last six years. This next summer I wish to grow a nice healthy front lawn with bermuda grass. I do not wish to purchase sod, I wish to condition my lawn appropriate for planting seed. I have been searching the web to find some answers, but to no avail. Can you give me some direction in a step by step format starting from the time of year to prepare soil, what chemicals to use, and seeding process? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:27 EST Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:43:27 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Jujube and Persimon tree care The Jujube tree is listed as being drought tolerent and as such should be very happy being deep watered biweekly in the summer and once a month in the winter. The persimon tree is not recommended for the low desert and will need to be watered more frequently especially in summer, once a week with deep water should be adequate. A general purpose fertilizer should be used. Do not use a high nitrogen fertilizer on this tree, as it will result in lots of foliage and little fruit. Good luck. Rod From inksparrow@uswest.net Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:02:50 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:02:50 -0700 From: D. Sparrow inksparrow@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Free Goat Manure in Gilbert, AZ Source for free goat manure in Gilbert near Cooper and Warner. Call Edythe first at (480) 899-9534 and get directions. She notes that the great thing about goat manure is that it is dry straight from the goat and doesn't burn. It is light and dusty though and she recommends masks for shoveling. Her goats are fed on alfalfa hay. The manure has nothing else added to it. She has it regularly, there being about 50 goats. She has garden clubs using it but has so much on a regular basis that she needs more takers. From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:09:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:09:06 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] frost petunias are probably the most sensitive of the plants you mention, geraniums next. Pansies are cool weather plants and servive under snow as small seedlings in nothern Ohio. Dianthis............. has survived through the winter for me, near Phoenix with no covering. One Carnation plant survived 4 years about a foot south of a tall cement wall, 12 feet east of my home....it died this summer, during the heat. On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 16:02:10 -0700 R2BESHON@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) writes: >arid_gardener >as a rule i cover all my flowers when frost warnings are out, however >is it >necessary? >do i need to cover geraniums, pansies, dianthas, and petunias? >r2beshon@aol.com > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:17:01 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:17:01 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Palms I only prune off dry, dead tissue from well-loved palms. When I wanted to remove some Washington palms, I cut off the entire top first because the fronds were thorning me to death. After cleaning up those fronds, I was tired so left the rest for later and........... the top regrew. Next I want to find out how many times this might happen............................ What a great adventure gardening can be!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you can water even a little bit, you will love the red fairy duster. Put it in the foreground where you can watch hummingbirds visit and you will have this pleasure early every morning through most of the year. The plant will survive without irrigation but it won't bloom as much as with water once a week. On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 09:31:58 -0700 (MST) mmmbradley@redrivernet.com writes: >arid_gardener >1. Are there only certain times of year that I can trim pigmy date >palms. Mine is young and I trim the lower fronds so they are laying >on the ground a couple of times a year. > >2. What can I do to assure success with a joshua tree? I live in the >foothills of Lake Havasu City. I need something with height to >balance my home. There is little landscaping in the front of my home >because the pool is in front. I am having fun leaving most of the >back of my home (upward sloping) as is with black rock, creosote, etc. >and am only planting xeriscape items. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:32:30 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:32:30 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Cats Control mice! Think about their survival and life style. Why are they choosing your garden for their use? Perhaps providing a pile of sand away from your garden would be more attractive than your vegetables.... Plant catnip next to the sand. Or enclose your beds with chicken wire to exclude the cats...... At my community garden, many 20 x 40 foot gardens are entirely enclosed to exclude rabbits. Cats are a similar nuisance. However, something is drawing them to your garden........ Cats and snakes love mice. On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 20:50:09 -0700 (MST) Dkaplan765@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I want to find an efficient way to keep cats from using my vegetable >garden as a toilet. >I have placed broken pumice stone all over which supposedly hurts >their foot pads, I have sprayed pepper/garlic sprays all over (which >just rinses right over when the sprinkler comes on) all to no avail. >What do you suggest? They are destroying flowers & vegetables besides >the unsanitation aspect. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:43:57 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:43:57 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Desert Landscape No! It is not true. Scorpions love crickets as food. Snakes eat mice. And both creactures need a steady supply. Rocks are pretty sterile compared to plant life. Shade will attract wildlife.............and be pleasant for human beings, too. In my garden (I just keep planting) there is more vegetation than in my neighbor's yards and I have more wildlife ~ mostly birds. I enjoy their presence but some people find this undesirable. I've been in Arizona, near Phoenix for 6 years, garden every day and have not seen a rattlesnake near my yard or garden yet! I've also not seen a scorpion but I'm careful where I put my hands and feet! Scorpions hide near &, or under big rocks, so be careful when moving them. Each creature has a job to do but I don't want rodents around my garden so I trap and, occasionally, poison mice............ The birds have been very helpful in controling insects. On Mon, 29 Nov 1999 08:44:31 -0700 (MST) foxgray@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >What are the disadvantages to having a desert landscape? We wanted to >put rocks in our front yard, but someone told us that it brings >scorpions, snakes and things like that. Is that true? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:54:09 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 06:54:09 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Saguaro Cactus There have been a few pruned in a similar way near where I live and they got arms just below the cut. None of them died. It doesn't look like anything was done to the cuts. It is amazing how much nerve some people have! Did SRP remove the prunings? Apparently saguaro cactus root from the ribs so you could try propagating the pieces. You grieve for the plant but perhaps you will like the new shape in a few years. The 45 degree angle will help water run off and avoid rot problems............. There is a black oozing, bacterial infection that devastates saguaro when it occurs but that is the only thing that usually kills them other than too much water. On Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:31:09 -0700 (MST) alan35@goodnet.com writes: >arid_gardener >Recently, SRP pruned, without my permission or knowledge, my 50+ year >old Saguaro Cactus. They cut the top off at about a 45' angle. What >harm will this do to the plant? My understanding is that is will allow >the moisture stored inside to evaporate, killing the beautiful old >plant. Are there any preventive measures that can be taken to preserve >this fantastic plant. > >Thanks for any help you can provide. >Alan >WebMaster@TheWall-USA.com > >The Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall Page >http://thewall-usa.com > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From cbi64@webtv.net Tue Nov 2 17:09:29 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 From: Barbara Isaac by way of Lucy Bradley cbi64@webtv.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] help i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for 15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a 16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. thanx From cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Nov 2 18:15:41 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:15:41 -0700 From: Carolyn Chard cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Howdy from the Desert Rat! Rose & tulip, lemon & lime, I can't think how to finish this rhyme! Carolyn H. Chard cchard@ag.arizona.edu "You make a living by what you get; you make a life by what you give." From mike.todd@asu.edu Tue Nov 2 19:22:02 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Barbara, We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) to Texas Root Rot*: Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) Hope this helps. *From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp 103-104. >Message: 1 >Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >Subject: [Arid_gardener] help > >i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >thanx Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue Nov 2 19:20:05 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS Please reply to these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue Nov 2 19:20:54 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS Please reply to each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? thank you. r2beshon@AL.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Nov 2 20:19:18 1999 Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Mike Todd I think you could have a couple of things going on with this bottle tree (I'm assuming that this is the Australian Bottle Tree - Brachychiton populneus) that is so commonly planted in the metro-Phoenix area. Texas Root Rot is quite common with these trees, but generally the leaves seem to die almost overnite and stick on the tree, rather than changing color and falling off - and the younger leaves at the branch tips should be dead also for Texas Root Rot. These trees are generally partially deciduous, meaning that periodically they will shed many of their older leaves and then flush out with fresh leaves. Sometimes this is a seasonal response and sometimes a response to stress - heat, lack of water, disease, salt, etc. The individual tree response varies greatly from clone to clone. If the tree looks healthy otherwise, has retained some of its older leaves and the branch ends all have new leaves emerging, then it is probably this response, rather than root rot. If you choose to keep this tree and help ot recover, rather than replacing at this time with a more root rot tolerant species, then I would also like to suggest that you need to change your watering pattern to help the tree recover and continue to grow healthy. Many people place the bubblers/drippers at the base of the young tree when forst planted and then do not move and adjust them outwards as the tree matures. For a 5 year old tree, your water source should be out at the drip line of the tree, not near the base. Moving the drippers/bubblers out to the area on the ground that is directly under the outer edge of the leaf canopy will make for a far healthier tree as that is where the tree's feeder and water absorbing roots are located. Watering too near the trunk can promote disease and also make for a shallow root system that is more prone to stress. Also, you need to adjust your watering schedule to take into account the fact that the tree is more mature now. You are currently wateriing your tree too often, and for way too short a period each time - too frequent and short of waterings will lead to a shallow, stress prone root system, along with accumulating salts in the root zone. You should be watering the tree for much longer at a time, but watering far fewer times since it is now 5 years old and considered a mature tree. By watering for a longer period, the water will soak in far deeper and help to flush accumulated salts out of the root zone. With this deeper watering schedule, you can probably cut back your watering to once every 2 or 3 weeks. Specific information on suggested tree watering schedules will depend on how much water your bubbler/drip system puts out over a set period of time. Details on this are available from your city's water conservation office, as well as on the University of Arizona website. Hope that this is helpful Mike Hills Maricopa County Master Gardener Volunteer *********************************** From: Michael Todd To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: cbi64@webtv.net Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves >arid_gardener >Barbara, > >We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. >In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends >to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be >susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about >what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root >Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider >planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for >years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) >to Texas Root Rot*: > >Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) >Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) >Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) >Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) >Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) >Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) >Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) >Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) > >Hope this helps. > >*From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain >a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp >103-104. ******************************************> >>Message: 1 >>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >>) >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] help >> >>i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >>leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >>base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >>then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >>leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >>15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >>rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >>16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >>i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >>thanx > >Mike Todd >Graduate Research Associate > >Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 >Arizona State University | Arizona State University West >PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 >Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 > >E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu >ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 >ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Nov 2 20:53:12 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS (Sow- or Pillbugs) Sowbugs/pillbugs are found in very damp, shaded areas feeding on dying or decaying vegetation. Refer to the entomology section of the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/relatives.html I have not known this critter to eat roots, however. Since they are attracted to moisture, could you be overwatering, resulting in roots rotting while attracting these rolypolys? I have known them to feed on small transplants, but this was vegetative, not root. Perhaps you've another issue? Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there > something i > can put in the soil to eradicate them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Nov 2 21:08:03 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care for Ponytail Palm [Beaucarnea recurvata] You've wisely chosen a southern/western indoors' exposure for a plant that likes plenty of good lighting. I've not had personal experience with this as an outdoor plant, but the Sunset Western Garden Book (page 180) suggests that it is viable outside in our zone. I'd watch carefully for the amount of summer sun, however. In my personal experience, the single most important factor is your watering practice. This plant will like to be deeply watered, but infrequently; drying out between waterings will be important. I drowned my last ponytail! Make sure run-off drains into a saucer and that it is not reabsorbed back into the root ball, carrying back any salts that the first watering leached from the container's soil. Tips on the end of foliage can mean lack of water, but overwatering or poor drainage are also likely candidates. Use a soil probe to check for the moisture of the root ball. The plant could also have been overfertilized (meaning heavy salt content); of course lack of fertilization could also be a factor. I normally stop fertilizing houseplants until spring growth recommences. My personal practice and the recommendation of our Indoor Plant Selection and Care publication #8828 is to trim brown leaf tips and margins following the shape of the leaf. I am not aware of specific advice to the contrary for Ponytails. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener jbh@azstarnet.com wrote: > How often should I water a ponytail palm? It is in a room that gets southern and western light. > It is about 4-5 ft tall and has several branches coming out of the main trunk. i got it at an estate sale and it has a lot of browning on the tips. > What can be done for that? I read you are not supposed to cut off the brown parts. > Thanks for your advice From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Nov 2 21:32:12 1999 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:32:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Citrus and Bougainvillea in Quartsite Mr. and Mrs. Goff, First, permit me to suggest that your county's Cooperative Extension office may be a better source of information for your particular area of Arizona. The only online publication we have is AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus When you get to this index of the Home Horticulture website you will also notice some other publications that can be ordered by mail at $1 each from: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 602/470-8086 (ext 301) There used to be an old U of A citrus publication 8464 called Citrus Trees in the Home Garden that covered most growing topics including fertilizing, watering, pruning, frost protections etc. You can ask about it at the phone number above. But your own Extension Office might just as well have it. As to bougainvilleas, most thrive on a bit of neglect. Indeed, the colorful bracts which are not a true flower, are most profuse when the plant is feeling a bit stressed for water. Overwatering will generate lush green vegetation. I have never had the need to fertilize mine in the past. Wait until danger of frost passes in the spring time to trim damage from cold temps. I hope this is helpful to you. Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener NollieR@redrivernet.com wrote: > We are looking for information on growing citrus trees & bougainvillea in Quartzsite AZ. Can you give us some tips and/or reading material. On line if possible. Thank you. Doris & Ray Goff. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Nov 2 23:09:05 1999 Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape software Hi Manfred, There is a review of several landscaping programs in the National Home Gardening Club Magazine for Nov/Dec. I'll list them below starting with the one that appears to give you the most flexibility. Complete Land Designer v. 5.0 (Sierra) price $50.00 Burpee 3D Garden Designer (Heat Zone Edition) Price $30 Expert Landscape Design 3D v. 5 price $12.00 Imagine Your Landscape (Adex) price $50.00 Planix Landscape (Autodesk) Price $20 If you do not have access to this magazine and are interested in more information about one of these I can type in the information given. If you are in the local Phoenix area and have access to a fax machine I could also fax the entire page to you. There is also a CD called Desert Landscaping but out by the Water Resources Research Center. You can probably locate it most easily at the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway, Tempe, AZ JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time, helspermc@mindspring.com writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: helspermc@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I am looking for software packages that will allow me to design landscaping ,inclusive of the usage of desert plants and cacti. The software should draw plans and produce a list of items used with associated costs. Pls. let me know of your recommendations and sources for aquisition. Thanks, Manfred Helsper >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Nov 2 23:50:31 1999 Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:50:31 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hibiscus Hi, Probably the best reference I can give you is the address for a Hibiscus Society. It is located in Florida but they are willing to answer questions from AZ. Very friendly people. They also publish a Hibiscus Handbook. I've sent for the book but it hasn't arrived as yet. The address is http:\\ww.trop-hibiscus.com In a message dated 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time, BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I need information or tips on how to get a big, beautiful tropical hibiscus to produce more blooms along with its great foliage- I feed it Miracid and diluted vinegar (roots only!) once a month. Thank you! >> From GailThiele@aol.com Wed Nov 3 23:01:21 1999 Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:01:21 EST From: GailThiele@aol.com GailThiele@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] care and feeding of certain plants The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. Thanks. Gail A. Thiele gailthiele@aol.com From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Nov 4 01:30:53 1999 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Houseplants Check out the University of Arizona Publication on House plants It is in PDF format so you will need acrobat reader to open. For instructions on how to download a free copy see Yes moisture meters can give accurate indication of moisture present and it would not be unusual to have the top of the pot dry out prior to the bottom of the pot and so get different readings at different levels in your pot. Moisture will evaporate off the top and gravity will pull it to the bottom. Good luck with your house plants! At 06:01 PM 11/03/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help >in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena >J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf >ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that >has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need >some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, >misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you >could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how >to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or >what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These >plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there >a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden >Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a >moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the >moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. >Thanks. >Gail A. Thiele >gailthiele@aol.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Nov 4 03:03:27 1999 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:03:27 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ta Dah!!!! Searchable Archives Look what Paul Sarando, computer guru for the University of Arizona, has done for us!!! He has created a search engine on the archives page that will search not only our new archives that we created when we moved to the mailman system, but also the old system which was on Majordomo. This means that you can go to the archives, type in what you are interested in and it searches both archives (not just the subject line, the whole message) so it will find all the previous messages on a particular topic!!! Check it out!!! How Cool is That!! Many, Many, Thanks to Paul for making the archives a functional tool for us!!! Lucy Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From mpinckard@earthlink.net Thu Nov 4 16:14:35 1999 Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700 From: Michelle Pinckard mpinckard@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden To Whom It May Concern: I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: Green beans Broccoli Carrots Cerely Cauliflower Endive Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas Radishes I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as layout? Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of these? Please respond at your earliest convenience. From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Nov 4 17:59:44 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Nov 4 19:33:41 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:33:41 -0700 (MST) From: BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have a Great Thursday! Test Message From Azgopher@juno.com Fri Nov 5 00:59:53 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST) From: Azgopher@juno.com Azgopher@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 5 05:27:39 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden Michelle Pinckard on Thursday, November 04, 1999 9:14 AM wrote: > ... > I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice > on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: > > Green beans Broccoli Carrots > Cerely Cauliflower Endive > Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas > Radishes > > I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as > layout? > Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of > these? I would us a modified "Square Foot Garden" layout. You could block out 9 3-foot square beds with 18 inches walkways between them. Or 4 5-foot squares or some other convenient combination. See http://members.primary.net/~silvest/garden/spacing.html for recommended sqft plant spacings and other ideas for your garden layout. Note that many sqft gardens are in raised beds for various reasons but it isn't really necessary to make raised beds. Unless you plan to use plastic tunnels forget about planting green beans until mid March. They need warm soil and it is already too cool to grow beans out in the open. And there isn't time to make a crop before frost. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for the vegetable planting schedule for Maricopa county. Most broccoli types produce fairly well. You will usually get only 1 large head but the side shoots are just as tasty and will produce over a long period if you harvest them before the yellow blossoms appear. Look for a type with a short time to maturity. Green Comet and Packman are my personal favorites because of prolific side shoot production but there are many others. I would suggest buying transplants for both broccoli and cauliflower - faster than seed at this late date. When buying transplants, your choices are pretty limited. Self blanching cauliflower is pretty popular but the regular old-fashioned types seem to be hardier. You might want to begin with a short carrot like Short-n-Sweet or Thumbelina if you have tight clay soil. I usually grow a Nantes type because it is more cylindrical with very little taper. Can't recommend any celery types - it hasn't been successful for me. Black Seeded Simpson is a bland flavored, light green lettuce which grows well here and is a pretty good substitute for iceberg lettuce. It is pretty widely available. You can often get 3-4 shearings from it before it starts to become bitter. Many of the other old standbys like oak-leaf and salad bowl are more flavorful. I'd suggest trying a leaf lettuce mix or a Mesclun mix to see what works best for you. For radishes, I would also suggest starting with a mix - something like cherry belle, French breakfast, icicle, champion, etc to see which works best for you. Any of the curly endives should do okay - it's pretty hardy. Green onions can be grown pretty rapidly using the generic sets available now in most garden center. For peas, we usually grow Wando it can get pretty rangy. Little Marvel,a short bush type, is also a good choice. You might also want to try "sugar snap peas". You don't need to shell them - one eats the entire pod. Good Luck! Olin Miller http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Nov 5 05:48:45 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jerusalem artichoke planting dates/AZ On Thursday, November 04, 1999 6:51 PM, Toni L. Allen wrote: > .... We're getting conflicting info about when to plant them here in central AZ. When?? Can we plant now. If we don't plant now, how do we store them until planting. > ... Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers in May. They need warm weather. You might try storing in a refrigerator. -Olin Miller From cmuller2000@earthlink.com Fri Nov 5 06:59:23 1999 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST) From: cmuller2000@earthlink.com cmuller2000@earthlink.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I irrigate my lawn every 2 weeks (6-8 in). Should I continue this throughout the winter? From PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Fri Nov 5 21:45:20 1999 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST) From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Nov 6 00:33:59 1999 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. > ... I have heard diatomaceous earth works but have never tried it yself. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Nov 6 00:45:29 1999 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... > each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? > ... Reccomended planting date for fall tomatoes is from July15 to August 15 according to the schedule at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf. Can't help with the other questions. Sorry. -Olin Miller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Nov 6 03:06:07 1999 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 22:06:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf: Winter watering All plants require much less water in the winter ; a rule of thumb is 1/2 the summer requirements. The newspapers on the weather page list the amount of water required to keep turf healthy, which varies throughout the year. Check outt the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf care at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From ecard10331@aol.com Sat Nov 6 15:55:14 1999 Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST) From: ecard10331@aol.com ecard10331@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently had two Chilean Mesquite Trees planted in our yard. During planting the Drip system was damaged and both trees were excessively watered for some time before we realized what had happened and repaired the damage. Now both trees are shedding their leaves. Are these trees dying? Can we salvage them? They have been in one month and the problem was solved after about two weeks. How often should we water these trees and for how long? they are beautiful trees and we would hate to lose them. Thanks in advance for your advice. Ed Cardinal From kallaz@gte.net Sat Nov 6 18:42:06 1999 Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 11:42:06 -0700 From: kevin@linda ahern kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] I cannot get connected to your question line. What are the huge white slimy caterpillars that are now in my unsuccessful vegetable garden soil? Did they come from my compost pile? From kallaz@gte.net Sat Nov 6 19:07:00 1999 Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST) From: kallaz@gte.net kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx From uitti@primenet.com Sat Nov 6 21:15:48 1999 Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST) From: uitti@primenet.com uitti@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti From scottwlee@hotmail.com Sat Nov 6 21:34:33 1999 Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST) From: scottwlee@hotmail.com scottwlee@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! From deniseorjohn@home.com Sun Nov 7 04:06:49 1999 Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys acaulis (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 7 21:29:27 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:29:27 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf recommendation for Thatcher, Az. Scott, I would recommend that you check with your county extension office. If I knew your elevation and climate zone I would be in a better position to help. Your county agent should be able to help you. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 7 23:14:06 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 18:14:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Over watered Mesquite trees Ed It is typical of trees that are under stress to drop their leaves and being overwatered for two weeks might be enough to cause stress. Hopefully yours will not be lost. My guess is that your trees should be ok. I doubt that your trees have established much root growth yet and especially with the over watering. When the tree was planted did anyone check to make sure that you had good drainage from the planting hole? The planting hole filled with water should drain overnight. If it doesn't it is not a fit place to plant a tree. A small hole dug down to the depth of the root ball at the edge of the root ball should tell you the current moisture situation. An experienced person can determine the same thing by inserting a steel probe; the probe will go easily to the depth that the water has penetrated. This is also a great way to determine if the irrigation water has penetrated to the proper depth. If the tree has not been watered in two weeks it should need water now unless your soil is not draining well. Deep watering every two to three weeks during the winter should be adequate. The root ball on a newly planted tree dries out much faster than the surrounding soil and should be monitored until the roots have penetrated into the surrounding soil. I would be glad to hear from you as to how your trees do. Good luck. Rod Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From seklug@earthlink.net Sun Nov 7 23:40:18 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST) From: seklug@earthlink.net seklug@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and knowledgeable tree trimmer. Would it be best to find someone who is a certified arborist. Other than taking my chances with the yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make a recommendation? From Codiedale@aol.com Mon Nov 8 02:21:01 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:21:01 -0700 (MST) From: Codiedale@aol.com Codiedale@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Nov 8 03:54:20 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:20 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Certified Arborist Listing The following website will have a list of Certified Arborists in your area: http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~isa/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod From tacman7@aol.com Mon Nov 8 05:54:36 1999 Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST) From: tacman7@aol.com tacman7@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. From plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Nov 8 15:51:48 1999 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700 From: Barry L. Bequette plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Horticulture Conference] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -- Barry L. Bequette, Ph.D. University of Arizona County Extension Director, Yuma County 2200 West 28th Street, Suite 102 Yuma, AZ 85364-6928 Phone: (520) 726-3904 Fax: (520) 726-8472 Mobile: (520) 210-1663 email: plantdoc@ag.arizona.edu --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from smtp04.primenet.com (smtp04.primenet.com [206.165.6.134]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id IAA05038 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:36:20 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp04.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id IAA14561 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:35:40 -0700 (MST) Received: from ip-19-208.yum.primenet.com(207.218.19.208), claiming to be "blakelyr" via SMTP by smtp04.primenet.com, id smtpdAAAloaOmC; Mon Nov 8 08:35:23 1999 Message-ID: <000c01bf29fd$c53039c0$0c00060a@blakelyr> From: "Roger Blakeley" To: Subject: Horticulture Conference Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:27:10 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yuma's Home and Garden Horticulture Conference Agenda: 7:30 a.m. - 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments 8:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry Mikel U of = A Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona. 9:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike Matheron = U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 10:30 a.m. - 10:45 a.m. Break 10:45 a.m. - 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A Cooperative = Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 11:45 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle 12:30 p.m. - 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. David = Kerns U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 1:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona. 2:30 p.m. - 2:35 p.m. Break 2:35 p.m. - 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City of Yuma = Parks & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona. Date: February 12, 2000 Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. 28th Street. Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up $10.00 at the door. R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension Office 2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona 726-3904 Raffle On Garden Items 8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yuma’s Home and Garden Horticulture Conference

Agenda:

7:30 a.m. – 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments

8:30 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry = Mikel U of A=20 Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona.

9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike = Matheron U of=20 A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

10:30 a.m. – 10:45 a.m. Break

10:45 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle

12:30 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. = David Kerns U=20 of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

1:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona.

2:30 p.m. – 2:35 p.m. Break

2:35 p.m. – 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City = of Yuma Parks=20 & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona.

Date: February 12, 2000

Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. = 28th=20 Street.

Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up

$10.00 at the door.

R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension = Office

2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona

726-3904

Raffle On Garden Items

8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered!

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00-- --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C-- From solson@asu.edu Mon Nov 8 16:45:19 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST) From: solson@asu.edu solson@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? From yiayia1@prodigy.net Mon Nov 8 18:41:59 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) From: yiayia1@prodigy.net yiayia1@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with no other information available. We have not been able to find out what this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? From mike.todd@asu.edu Mon Nov 8 19:23:04 1999 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sapphire Dragon Tree Here are the URLs for a couple of websites that could be of some use: http://www.paulownia.org/bibliography.html http://www.sapphire-dragon.com/ Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 9 >Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) >From: yiayia1@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with >no other information available. We have not been able to find out what >this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 8 22:37:07 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Hi, In areas with caliche, the addition of soil sulfur and organic matter to the backfill will help to break down the caliche and release nutrients to the plants. Although it is often recommended gypsum should not be used because it is ineffective in caliche or calcified soils. Plants properly suited to the local soils will perform well with native soil as the backfill. I have several friends that planted their bougainvillea into the native clay soil we have in our neighborhood, with no amendments. I have mine in a pot filled with potting soil. All seem to be doing fine so they must have a wide range of tolerance. I find no specific information as to plant depth but the usual is to guide by the potted plant itself. It should not be planted deeper then it is in the pot. In a message dated 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 8 22:37:05 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado Tree Hi, Probably your best bet for an answer to your avocado question is to contact Dick Gross. rkg144@worlnet.att.net He is the secretary of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers. This group has the best information for growing semi tropical plants in the valley. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunter, Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time, aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From reesaviary@cs.com Tue Nov 9 00:43:35 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST) From: reesaviary@cs.com reesaviary@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when do you pick the olives to be canned and how to can green and black olives? From Pacsmith@att.net Tue Nov 9 05:42:40 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From Pacsmith@att.net Tue Nov 9 05:44:04 1999 Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From maxcel@swlink.net Tue Nov 9 16:09:53 1999 Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small compost pile in my backyard that I started earlier this year. It has a large number of ants in it, but it also has worms that we can't identify. When I saw them a couple of weeks ago, they looked like they were about an inch long and very pale. I thought they might be some type of grub. Any idea what these might be and if they are OK for my compost? From Phgeditors@aol.com Tue Nov 9 18:07:47 1999 Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:07:47 EST From: Phgeditors@aol.com Phgeditors@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. From DorrineM@AOL.com Tue Nov 9 18:37:13 1999 Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST) From: DorrineM@AOL.com DorrineM@AOL.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? From dmaceachern@energes.com Tue Nov 9 18:55:47 1999 Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST) From: dmaceachern@energes.com dmaceachern@energes.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) I have a question on how to trim/prune two trees I have in my front yard. They were new and planted in May. I believe they are members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled in width & height. I want to trim them back in width so they are not interfering with the sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. Is there a web site page you could direct me to that either explains or illustrates the proper method. I am new to the area and want to ensure I do not damage the plant. Thank You. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Nov 9 20:24:29 1999 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Pruning Trees You can visit the following page from the Master Gardener manual for great information on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer dmaceachern@energes.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) > > I have a question on how to trim/prune > two trees I have in my front yard. They were > new and planted in May. I believe they are > members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled > in width & height. I want to trim them back in > width so they are not interfering with the > sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. > > Is there a web site page you could direct me to > that either explains or illustrates the > proper method. I am new to the area and want > to ensure I do not damage the plant. > > Thank You. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Nov 9 20:50:12 1999 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:50:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Rabbits in the Garden Dorrine: I have a few ideas that MIGHT help you. In a book I have called, "A Miscellany of Garden Wisdom" (its a collection of homespun, old time knowledge) it is mentioned that a liberal planting of Foxglove will keep rabbits away. If you like foxglove, it might be worth a try. It also mentioned onions. I use a product called Repel which I purchase at nurseries. I use it to keep cats from using my flower bed as a litter box. It works well for that. The container lists Rabbits as well. Always follow the instructions on the container. Chicken wire fencing is one of the most effective ways to keep rabbits out. You can also visit the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html This is a new section of the on-line Master Gardener manual, which may give you some suggestions. Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer DorrineM@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? > We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Nov 10 00:06:09 1999 Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm and other tree care Queen Palms are not native to nor are they well adapted to our low desert, and because of this they are not long lived. It is not a tree that one can plant and forget. It must be watered and fertilized properly. Granular fertilizer uniformly spread on the ground at the drip line of the tree, whether palm or other tree, and watered in well will provide a more uniform fertilization than other methods. Fertilization by injection could be a viable way to correct a nutrient dificiency or for a special situation. Fertilizer spikes will provide the tree with a uniform nutrient release which you won't have with the surface application. A combination of the spikes with the surface application will work well provided the reccommended rate is not exceeded. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide quite commonly used on many applications in the garden and landscape. One of its applications is to treat bud rot on palms. Alliette, a more costly fungicide, appears to be targeted toward a specific fungi. Sorry but I don't have available a chemical make up of Alliette. If it is important to you I could research it. The Evergreen Elm is quite susceptable to Texas Root Rot. One way to minimise the chances of Texas Root Rot is not to over water. Periodic applications of soil sulfur will help to lower the soil pH which is also helpful. But most of all INCREASE the irrigation interval in fall, and more in winter. Each time you water, DEEP WATER. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed Nov 10 16:40:38 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello Scott in Thatcher If I am reading my map correctly, you are at about 3,000 foot elevation which gives you more options for turfgrass than us low desert gardeners. You may want to double check with your local county extension agent for their local recommendations for turfgrass in your area. You should be able to grow a Turf Tall Fescue lawn which would be "softer" than bermuda, and will also remain green year round. You should plant this grass seed in the early-mid Fall or in early spring. A Fall planting will be better to allow the fescue plants to establish a strong root system before next summer's heat returns. Deep, infrequent watering will make the grass healthier. This grass species does require more water than bermuda, but once your stand is a couple of years old, it will have a deep root system. Mowing height is recommended at 2-3 inches, and this grass species is fairly tolerant of shade if you have older trees. Plant 6-8 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet of turf area (DO NOT plant more than this rate - too many seedlings crowding each other will promote disease). Your local garden centers and nurseries should have detailed information for you on planting and care of this turfgrass species. There are many different varieties and brand names available, just make sure that the seed package label says the words "Turf Tall Fescue" somewhere on it. Good Luck Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Research Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ******************************************* -----Original Message----- From: scottwlee@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed Nov 10 17:19:21 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Just a brief note from my personal experience. 1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate better & faster. 2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. 3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they eat them. 4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in the spring from the trunk and main branches mike hills - maricopa county master gardener **************************************. -----Original Message----- From: Codiedale@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed Nov 10 20:33:11 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit repellent plants Dorrine - you might try planting some YARROW plants. This is a herb that looks a lot like a fern, and comes in many different bloom colors - grows very well here in the Valley. Readily available at local nurseries and garden centers this time of year. The flowers can be dried and used in crafts and flower arrangements. According to many members of the Arizona Herb Association who grow this plant, the pungent smell of the leaves is not pleasing to rabbits so they usually avoid eating these. Some members recommend planting these yarrow plants along the front or outer edge of the flower beds so the rabbits hit them first and are hopefully turned aside. I am surprised that they ate your lantana. Next spring you may want to try planting larger size lantana plants so that they have a better start and can then keep up enough growth to get ahead of the animal munching. I have also had people recommend several different items below to use as rabbit repellents, HOWEVER, please be aware that in very dry years with little in the desert to eat, the rabbits and other desert dwellers will come into your yard anyway once they get hungry enough. Blood Meal or Bone Meal sprinkled around the garden beds - available at nurseries. Human, Cat or Dog hair tied up in little muslin or cheesecloth bags and hung in your shrubs and bushes - the odor of "predator" is supposed to keep rabbits away. Cat litterbox cleanout (cat dung) scattered around the edge of your property is sometimes effective in repelling the rabbits into other people's yards (again due to the potential cat predator threat) Moth Balls - available at drugstores - scattered around in the foliage or along the edge of your property where you think the animals are netering. Not on any human edible plants and please be aware that the smell that helps keep the rabbits away is also not pleasant for people. Commercial spray and powder products to repell pests can be purchased at your garden center, hardware store or nursery and do sometimes work (example: "Ropell"). You may also want to contact the Desert Botanical Garden and The Arizona Game & Fish office - both have helpful publications on this topic. Mike Hills - Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County ****************************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: DorrineM@AOL.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? >We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed Nov 10 22:04:33 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Castor Beans >arid_gardener >Just a brief note from my personal experience. > >1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - >fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate >better & faster. > >2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does >need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. > >3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a >plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they >eat them. > >4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in >the spring from the trunk and main branches > > >mike hills - maricopa county master gardener >**************************************. >-----Original Message----- >From: Codiedale@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been >attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >>on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the >conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral >information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other >information you my have would be great too. >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dybegay@amug.org Wed Nov 10 22:41:43 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST) From: dybegay@amug.org dybegay@amug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and where I can find frost dates. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Nov 10 23:10:05 1999 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market. This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself. (NO brokers please) If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start. Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market.  This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself.  (NO brokers please)

If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start.  Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT-- From ed-gayle@home.com Thu Nov 11 13:38:15 1999 Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: ed-gayle@home.com ed-gayle@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Nov 11 15:05:26 1999 Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:05:26 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an ornamental pomegranate tree and it never gets any fruit on it. It is grown for the blooms. Val From maxcel@swlink.net Thu Nov 11 16:27:15 1999 Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a hibiscus in my backyard that I planted last fall. Towards the end of this summer it finally started growing! It has put on about 1 1/2 - 2 feet of growth. Now I am wondering when and how much I should cut it back so that it won't get leggy. Also, it hasn't flowered in a long time. When can I expect to see some flowers? Thanks, Celestine From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Nov 11 21:44:01 1999 Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:44:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus: with vegetative growth and no blooms Celestine, You can prune back your hibiscus about 1/3 next spring after the danger of frost is past. Too much nitrogen fertilizer would cause a lot of vegetative growth and few blossoms. I would suggest that you use a balanced fertilizer. Good luck. Rod From gretchen@hpiug.org Fri Nov 12 13:40:04 1999 Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST) From: gretchen@hpiug.org gretchen@hpiug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there an inexpensive but reliable way to water is of my houseplants while away on an extended vacation (2 months) ? I have found some wick devices that last two weeks. From valpogrl@aol.com Sat Nov 13 00:18:40 1999 Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST) From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I am having problems with my roses generally this fall, the worst is a "Paradise" rose, about 10 years old. Alot of the leaves have turned yellow and then fallen, I haven't seen any black spot however. BUT, the stems are turning purple, though they don't seem swollen, just purple. Black spot? Vitamin defiency? Any ideas? Thanks, Cindy From mikesmower@aol.com Sat Nov 13 13:33:33 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 06:33:33 -0700 (MST) From: mikesmower@aol.com mikesmower@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be appreciated. thanx tim From saturn1066@aol.com Sat Nov 13 19:08:24 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:08:24 -0700 (MST) From: saturn1066@aol.com saturn1066@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The leafs and branches of my oleander are beginning to try drwon and yellow and dry. Many of the branches are now nothing but dry, brittle dead wood. It doesn't appear to be the oleander gall described in the index. Although perhaps it is. Would welcome your recommendation..Please advise.. From asinger@prodigy.net Sat Nov 13 20:25:02 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 13:25:02 -0700 (MST) From: asinger@prodigy.net asinger@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat Nov 13 19:45:23 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:45:23 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] First and Last Frost Dates for the Valley of the Sun Check out our web page on Frost in the Valley for information on First and Last Frost in the Valley and Frost and Growing Season Data For other weather related information see Lucy At 03:41 PM 11/10/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and >where I can find frost dates. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 00:04:00 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:04:00 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Hi, Slugs need moisture so I'd say under your plastic pots is an excellent daytime hiding place for them. I believe they come out at night to feed on your very delicious plants. I'd start some of the procedures for eliminating them if they are doing damage. Sunset's Western Garden Problem Solver has a list of things to do. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, Phgeditors@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: Phgeditors@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 00:03:50 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:03:50 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Succulents Hi Fran, There is a CD called Desert Landscaping that has information on all the plants you listed with pictures. I got my copy from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 East Broadway Tempe, AZ for a cost of $25.00 I have an address in my notebook that says photo's you might check. It is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm I've not tried this address myself as yet. Hope this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time, asinger@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: asinger@prodigy.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran >> From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat Nov 13 23:58:26 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:58:26 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Snails and Slugs tend to hibernate in cool weather, but we haven't had any yet so they are still out and about and active. You may be seeing more of them because we have had such a dry fall they are coming up to your potted plants that are watered. They tend to go to sheltered places during the day so they may be living under the pots during the day. Natural populations tend to cycle, this seem to be a banner year for slugs. For more information on Snails and Slugs see Lucy At 01:07 PM 11/09/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones >with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping >stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 00:51:22 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:51:22 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olives Hi, We have a number of answers to questions on Olives in the Arid_Gardener archives. I've copied/pasted one of these letters. One way to reach the archives is the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html There is now a better way to cruise the hundred's of letters but I can't find that info at the moment. I scrolled to the O's and found several under the heading of Olives. Hopefully others will give you more information. Re: Olives Art Tarsha (stack@goodnet.com) Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:41:55 -0700 Hi All, Since I got a few requests for this recipe, I decided to just post it to the list. Brined Greek-Style Olives Always use mature, full colored, yet still firm fruit. (dark reddish/purple). Harvest before frost and throw out any bruised or soft olives. They will fade in color and soften up during curing. Wash and stem the olives. 1. Place cleaned and sorted olives in 1 quart or larger glass jars. 2. Cover with a brine containing 8 oz. of salt per gallon of water. Use a little saucer and weight or other rigging to keep the olives submerged in the liquid. Fasten the lid on loosely. 3. After one week, replace the original brine with a stronger brine of 1 lb of salt per gallon of water, again leaving covers loose. 4. After 2 more weeks, replace the brine with a new brine of the same solution, 1 lb salt per gallon of water and seat the covers firmly. If pressure forms, carefully loosen the cover to release the gas, then close again firmly. 5. If during this time, a mold or scum forms on the top of the liquid, skim it off and replace the brine. Keeping the olives submerged in the brine should keep this from happening. 6. After 6 weeks to 2 months of total curing time, you can taste your olives to see if enough bitterness has been leached out to make them edible. Since tastes are different, you may cure them for a bit less or a bit more time to get the result you like. These will be VERY salty straight from the brine. You can soak a few test olives in clear water in the refrigerator for a day before tasting if you prefer. Remember that any olives you desalt by soaking in clear water must be refrigerated. The salt is what is preserving them. 7. When they've been cured to your taste, drain brine and rinse olives. Put them back in clean quart glass jars, packing in 3 or 4 slices of lemon with them, a minced clove of garlic and a teaspoon of oregano. Only fill the jars about 2/3rds full of olives. Pour in each quart jar 2/3 cup of white vinegar and a teaspoon of salt. Fill with water to within an inch of the top, then pour in olive oil until the liquid comes to within a half inch of the top of the jar. Seal firmly, agitate to mix contents and store in a dark place at room temperature. 8. These will keep for a year, but are most delicious from about a week after being put in marinade to about 3 to 4 months later. After that, they begin to taste more and more acidic and strong. My arabic father in law loves them the longer they sit, but I prefer them in the early stages. :-) From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 14 01:07:11 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:07:11 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Searching the Archives To search the arid_gardener archives go to There is a search engine there that will allow you to search within the message as well as for particular authors, dates, etc. Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 14 01:09:55 1999 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:09:55 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to find a certified arborist Check out the site below that lets you search by zip code, city or state for certified arborists in your area. At 04:40 PM 11/07/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and >knowledgeable tree trimmer. >Would it be best to find someone who is a certified >arborist. Other than taking my chances with the >yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make >a recommendation? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 18:14:16 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:14:16 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranate Hi, The information I found in Sunset's Western Garden mentions a number of varieties from dwarf, to shrub or tree. Most seem to have no fruit, or small dry red fruit. One tree variety is mentioned as the most common (called "Wonderful") fruiting variety. It has red fruit in the autumn. It mentions that regular deep watering is important for fruit development. It would also need to be in a sunny location. It did not mention feeding fertilizer. It did say pomegranates are very tolerant of our alkaline soils. Information from a book called "Shade and Color with Water-Conserving Plants" by James Walters and Balbir Backhaus. Dwarfs are very ornamental in containers but do not produce edible fruit. They all like heat and good drainage. Non fruiting varieties need little water. It mentions "Wonderful" as being the best fruiting. It says to water deeply, twice monthly from spring thru fall. Minimal fertilizer. Doesn't require a pollinator, minimal chilling requirements. There are other fruiting varieties but they are not commonly found. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time, ed-gayle@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: ed-gayle@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 18:35:42 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:35:42 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification Hi, I can't tell if anyone answered your question or not. Insects can be difficult to identify. Sometimes if you give a very detailed description we can find possibilities in our books. Really your best bet is to bottle up a few specimens and take them into the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Tempe, AZ. They have a very good pannel that looks at specific problems and speciments Friday mornings. I have heard of a white grub that sometimes is found in compost piles, especially ones that don't generate enough heat while they are working. I've never heard anyone even attempt to identify the critter though. On the problems with your garden I know most of my problems stem from poor watering practices. I tend to over water or kill things with shallow watering so that they are killed by accumulative salts. You might check out this address for help with watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.htm The master gardener manual is a wealth of information and can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html For Veggies try: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#vegetable Hope some of this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, kallaz@gte.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: kallaz@gte.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx >> From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 14 19:33:05 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:33:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Cindy, As my roses age they reach a peak and then start to decline after 7 or 8 years. The humus that we mix in to the planting hole when we plant a rose is eventually used up by the growing rose. Our plants thrive because of the bacteria that the humus is host to in the soil and when it is gone our plants do not grow as well. We can help the situation by applying any one of the many organic mulches annually. Yellow leaves can be caused by over or under watering, nitrogen deficiency, magnesium deficiency, spider mites as well as other things. Roses struggle to stay alive during our hot summers in the low desert and this one has been much longer than usual. Yesterdays temperature was 16 degrees above normal. I've lost several roses during the last month and I blame it on the much higher than normal temperatures. Black spot is very seldom seen here in the low desert. On Saturday, November 20, Mesa East Valley Rose Society will host a rose show and festival at Mesa Community College, and open to the public from 1:00 to 4:00 PM. Come and enjoy the largest public rose garden in Arizona ( 2500 roses) and bring a sample of foliage from your Paradise rose. One of the several Consulting Rosarians who will be there should be able to help you with a more definitive diagnosis. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From tate@dzn.com Sun Nov 14 19:31:15 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:31:15 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation To all my gardening friends. I use plastic T-tape to irrigate my garden site at a community garden location in El Paso Texas. The dripper are 8 inches apart and my lines are 14 to 18 inches apart. I control the amount of water used with an automatic metering valve. This allow me to set the number of gallons of water to apply and the valve cuts off when finished. What I would like to know is someone's recommendation for the maximum depth to place these lines below the surface for a mixed vegetable garden. Presently I have carrots, broccoli, and pole bean growing beautifully with the lines six inches deep. Dale and Selma Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 915.751.3879 From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 14 20:47:25 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:47:25 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Vegetables, particularly tomatoes Mike, Below are some resources that may be of interest to you. You may also want to check out the Maricopa County Home Horticulture Website Vegetable Planting Guide for Maricopa County Back the dates up a week or two for Wickenburg Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter, Section on Tomatoes Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Trouble Shooting problems with Tomatoes Desert Gardening For Beginners Good Luck! Lucy Bradley At 06:04 PM 11/13/1999 -0800, you wrote: > My name is Mike Hosler and I am a veteran Master Gardener in Oregon, >Clackamas County Chapter, and got your email address from our program >coordinator. > I am interested in getting info and/or data on raising vegetables, >particularly tomatoes, in the Phoenix and north in the Wickenburg area(s). >I'm sure that the climate presents some unique challenges, and equally sure >that some avid gardeners have mastered them. >Looking for recommendations of people, publications, or any other sources >to which you might direct me. >Thanks >Mike Hosler Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 14 21:15:35 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:35 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification The grubs could well have been living in your compost. The larger ones may mature into a magnificent metallic green beetle. Unless you have more than 12 per square foot there is no need to treat them. If you want you can pull them out and set them on the sidewalk or some other surface for the birds to eat them. Arizona Master Gardener Entomology Manual, section on white grubs >In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, >kallaz@gte.net writes: > ><< Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: kallaz@gte.net > Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > arid_gardener > I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a >successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of >home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening >workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and >unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned >home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY >large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are >these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting >seeds? What do I do? Many thx > > > >> > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 21:36:09 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:09 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering new sod lawn Hi, Chapter 12 of the Master Gardener Manual gives good information on lawn care in the valley. You might try the following address for help: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.htm.html#index You can also get to the master gardener manual via the Arid_gardener web page by selecting publications. What I found in chapter 12 about newly planted sod is as follows. Water sod 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals for 10 to 14 days. Avoid soaking sod continuously at night. After sod begins to "knit" (and resists being pulled up) begin to water once a day, for a longer period of time. Then, decrease irrigation to every 2 to 3 days. The chapter goes into how to recognize when you lawn needs water, the screw driver test to see if your water is perking the 8 to 10 inches recommended for established lawns. Lots of info you might find useful. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time, tacman7@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: tacman7@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 21:36:10 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:10 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo Pine death Hi, I doubt very much that electrical wires running thru the tree had anything to do with the tree's death. The Aleppo pine tree (pinus halepensis) is subject to Texas Root Rot. The symptoms of the disease is rapid death during the hot season. Leaves remain on the tree but are dry and will crumble in your hand. I just lost an eucalyptus tree to the same disease. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time, solson@asu.edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: solson@asu.edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 21:36:05 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euphorbia Amak Variegata Hi, There seems to be many varieties of Euphorbia. I haven't found anything on your particular variety. They all seem to be drought tolerant though so I'd expect the problem will be more related to too much water. Anyway I'm reposting your question in case someone one line will recognize the plant and give you more information. You might just have to keep a careful eye on the plant and go by whether it is showing signs of needing water (wilting). JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Azgopher@juno.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Azgopher@juno.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 21:36:07 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planter made of plastic pipe Hi Paul, We have several things to consider with your planter. 1. Will it be hung in the shade or full sun? 2. How deep is the planter? The less soil the faster it will dry out in our climate. 3. The color black absorbs heat readily. Keeping the plant roots at a temperature they can tolerate may be a problem. Do you live in the lower valley? 4. Are we talking about annual or perennial plants for your planter? There are a number of books out on container gardening. The one I have is from Sunset. I found it at a local nursery. I know book stores have a number of container gardening books that are more extensive. You might want to just scan thru some of these books for ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time, uitti@primenet.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: uitti@primenet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun Nov 14 21:36:08 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:08 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hymenoxys caulis (wild flower) Hi, I'm reposting your question under the name of the wild flower you mentioned. Evidently the one you have in your yard looks like the one you found in the article your referred to. A good description of the plant is always helpful to those of us trying to answer questions. I have one address that might be helpful http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html We do have people in the master gardener program with experience with wild flowers. Hopefully one will see the name of the angelica daisy you mention and give you more information. There are books at nurseries and book stores on wild flowers. You might try scanning thru some of these books. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time, deniseorjohn@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: deniseorjohn@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys caulks (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks >> From sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Sun Nov 14 22:38:04 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:38:04 -0700 (MST) From: sandstrom.family@prodigy.net sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. thank you From umiller@azdps.com Sun Nov 14 23:18:02 1999 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:18:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Grapefruit - When to Pick Hi - Funny you should ask the question about when to pick grapefruit. I just asked myself that this afternoon while looking at the fruit and wondering -----. My Ortho "All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits" says "The only sure way to determine maturity is to taste the fruit. Fruit color is a poor indication of ripeness because many fruits have fully colored rinds months before they can be eaten." On the books, there are sections in most desert gardening books and a section in the Sunset Western Garden Book. The Maricopa County Library at 32nd Street has a good selection. Hope this helps. Ursula ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 3:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. > > thank you > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jess@cvweb.com Mon Nov 15 15:04:33 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: jess@cvweb.com jess@cvweb.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: Question #1: Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. Question #2: If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? Question #3: Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? Thanks for your feedback! Jess T. From saz621@primenet.com Mon Nov 15 15:19:04 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:19:04 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: > > Century Plant > Huachuca Agave > Shindagger > Agave palmeri > Sotol > Yucca elata > Yucca baccata > Ocotillo > Boojum > Aloes > Octopus Agave > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > Thanks > Fran > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gaye.clark@asu.edu Mon Nov 15 17:40:27 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:40:27 -0700 (MST) From: gaye.clark@asu.edu gaye.clark@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Nov 15 18:31:17 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:31:17 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shaded Lawn Problems >Bermudagrass lawns are the main turf in The Valley and none of the available >Bermuda varieties (seeded nor sodded) are at all tolerant of shade. The >problem has nothing to do with any fungus from the Mesquite trees, as >bermudas are extremely disease tolerant. It is merely caused by the shade >from your clients' maturing trees and is a fairly common problem as >people's landscapes mature. > >The best and usually easiest solution is to trim the trees up - not just >thinning the canopy as you have done before, but actully moving the crown >upwards by removing some of the large lower limbs. You will have to >decide if this is possible based on the individual trees and their current >branch structure - this will allow more sun to shine in under the sides of >the tree during the days. If you do this, then you also need to mow the >turf under the trees at a taller mowing height - 2 to 3 inches tall - to >permit the grass to have more leaf surface to trap and colllect the limited >sunlight. > >Option #2 would be to plant some "Turf Tall Fescue" seed this fall and >winter. This is a cool climate turfgrass species that is very shade >tolerant - available from seed at most local garden centers and nurseries >under many different brand names and labels. This grass species will >remain green year round in our climate, but stresses severely during the hot >summers and needs far more water than bermuda does. However, under trees, >the temperature is generally about 20 degrees coller, so the Tall Fescue >will usually do well and survive the summers in shaded conditions. The >seed needs to be planted NOW in order to get the grass plants root system's >developed well enough before next summer's heat stress returns. PLANT 6 to >8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet in a well prepared seed bed according >to the label instructions and instructions sheets from your grass seed >supplier. DO NOT plant extra seed!!!! More is definitely NOT better, as >the seedlings will be too crowded to develop a good root system and will >succumb to heat and disease next summer. > >Option #3 is to plant St. Augustine or Zoysia grass - Both are warm >climate gras speices with good shade tolerance. St. Augustine from sod >planted next summer - Zoysia from seed or sod planted next summer. Both >of these go dormant in winter like the bermudas and can be overseeded with >ryegrass for winter green turf - although they are not as tolerant of >overseeding practices as the bermudas are. > >There is a good article with more detailed information on this in one of the >1999 issues of the 'Horticultural Communicator' which you can access at our >website where you posted this querstion. Find the Communicator pages >and you should be able to query for the artcile on shaded turfgrass >problems. If you have any problems tracking this down, please advise and >we can help. > >Good Luck! > >Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County > >Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales >Seed Research of Oregon >5314 West Luke Avenue >Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA >tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 >email mhills_sro@msn.com >WEB www.sroseed.com > > > >******************************* >-----Original Message----- >From: mikesmower@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 6:33 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the >past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most >pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, >mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there >has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this >was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent >this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems >to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers >because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? >>one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce >some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, >i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the >account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be >appreciated. >>thanx tim >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Nov 15 21:30:45 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:30:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass seedlings can suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, combined with the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor drainage or soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are spots that get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or similar. I would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering. You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical that you actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem areas - make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you have sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the soil evenly where you want it to. If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in all the way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two reasons. 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is still hard and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus due to overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the drainage. 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then the soil is compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of your spriklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the sprinkler pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also immrpove the drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of running off. To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the area to loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand into the holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration. Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I would not recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually expensive, fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if you have an underlying problem with watering or drainage. You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. If you got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should have shown you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and then tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make sure that you are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much water can often lead to disease problkems also. Hope that this information is helpful. mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener Mike Hills Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales Seed Research of Oregon 5314 West Luke Avenue Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 email mhills_sro@msn.com WEB www.sroseed.com ************************* -----Original Message----- From: gaye.clark@asu.edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JAPA@CTAZ.COM Mon Nov 15 22:12:43 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:12:43 -0700 (MST) From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM JAPA@CTAZ.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Nov 15 22:54:45 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:54:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Hello and thanks for the question - The specific watering requirements will differ depending on which herb species you planted. Some herb plants grow larger than others, and some are higher water users than other species. Also, the amount and system of water delivery will be effected by the type of soil in your herb garden. Did you amend the soil with organic matter, or are you using our native soil with its higher clay content? Is this a raised bed, or planted directly into your yard soil? Some herbs such as Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Sage are much more prone to root rot and should be planted in well drained soil and not receive too much water. Others such as Basil, Oregano, Lemongrass, Chiles, Sorrel, Mints, Lemon Balm, Gotu Kola, etc. like or at least tolerate extra water. Please let me know which specific herb plants you have planted and I will try to give you more detailed advice. Also email your mailing addresss and I will have the Arizona Herb Association mail you their info sheet on soil preparation and watering for herbs grown in The Valley. This local herb gardening club meets the first Thursday of each month (except for December) at 7 pm and meetings are either at the Palo Verde room at the Extension office, or are at the Community Room at the Pueblo Grande Museum. The telephone voice mail system and the website both will tell the meeting topic and the meeting location for each month. We welcome guests at our meetings - dues are $25 individual and $35 for a family per year - this includes meetings, monthly newsletter and discounts on many books available at our meetings and out monthly functions. You can check out information on the Arizona Herb Association and their upcoming meetings (some of the Spring meetings will have topics concerning soil and irrigation) by calling tel #602-470-8086 ext. 830 or checking our website at www.accessarizona.com/Community/Groups/AzHerb You may also want to go check out local herb demo gardens to get some ideas - we maintain a demonstration herb garden at the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 east Broadway Road AND we also advise the Desert Botanical Gardne on their herb demonstration garden. The Arizona Herb Association also has a great book published on growing herbs in this area "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" available for $10 including postage - mail to : Az Herb Assoc., P.O. Box 63101, Phoenix, AZ 85082 The Master Gardener Press has also published an excellent book for beginning gardeners in this area, and this book includes a section on herbs that may be helpful. "Desert Gardening for Beginners' by Cathy Cromell - send $10 check made out to University of Arizona - mail to: Master Gardener Program, Maricopa County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - OR, you can pick up the book at that office for $8.00 walk in. One thing to keep in mind under your Eucalyptus tree - keep the dropped leaves cleared away from the plants on a regular basis. Eucalyptus leaves do not mulch down very well and may also leach substances into the soil that slow growth of other plants. Eucalyptus trees also have extensive, invasive roots systems that often compete with other more shallow rooted plants making it difficult to grow other flowers and plants under these trees. You may have no problems, but please keep this in mind for later reference. ALSO, the October 22 issue of the Arizona Republic had a good article on planting and care of Fall Herbs in their Arizona Home and Gardening section. I believe you can access this article online at the Arizona Republic's website, or call them to order a back issue of the paper. Look forward to hearing back from you. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association, Phoenix ************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: jess@cvweb.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: > >Question #1: >Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. > >Question #2: >If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? > >Question #3: >Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? > >Thanks for your feedback! > >Jess T. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon Nov 15 23:37:39 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:37:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade plants Check out the article on Shade Plants in the Saturday November 13, 1999 issue of the Arizona Republic in the AZ Home and Garden section. Should be accessable through the Republic's website - if you cannot find it, let me know and I will try to pull the article from our submission files and forward to you. Good Luck - Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County mhills_sro@msn.com ************************************** -----Original Message----- From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 3:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. >THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From saz621@primenet.com Tue Nov 16 00:31:31 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:31:31 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Alan Singer wrote: > Mary, > Thanks for writing back. > I am preparing for being a docent in a desert botanical garden. > We are studying plants that grow in this garden. > I need to become very familiar with the list of succulents I indicated > below. > Such things as growing times, blooming, perhaps some interesting information > about a particular plant. > Anything that would work with children and adults. > I hope that helps. > > Thanks > Fran > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mary Irish > To: > Cc: > Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary > > > > > > asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on > specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following > succulents: > > > > > > Century Plant - This is actually Agave americana. The plant is grown > ornamentally all over the world and gets large, usually 5 ft tall and as much > across although there can be varieties that are much larger, particulary when > grown in coastal California or the Mediterranean. It usually lives about 20 > years in the Phoenix area and is highly susceptible to the agave snout weevil > > > Huachuca Agave - This is Agave parryi v. huachucensis and is native to > southern Arizona and into northern Sonora. It is usually about 2.5 ft tall > maybe 3 ft and a little less around. It is quite cold hardy, very symmetrical > plant that is widely used in the ornamental trade. > > > Shindagger - Many plants carry this common name but Agave lechuguilla is > one of the plants that is usually associated with the name. That agave has a > wide distribution throughout the Chihuahuan desert, in fact in most areas > where it occurs it is so common that you almost have to walk on it to cross > the area. It is smaller, about 2 ft tall generally, and is rounded on the back > of the leaf with a distinctive striation to the skin. > > > Agave palmeri - This is another larger plant that is native to southern > Arizona but it intergrades north with Agave chrysantha. It is about 3-4 feet > tall and at least that around. It is not particulary common horticulturally, > but is very attractive. > > > Sotol - This name is usually applied to Dasylirion wheeleri, which is > native to the mid elevations of Arizona and into Mexico. The plant is a > collection of tightly held leaves that have tiny teeth on the edge. Unlike > agaves, dasylirion bloom throughout their lives with large, plume-like > flowering heads. > > > Yucca elata - The soaptree yucca is found throughout the Sonoran and > Mohave desert and eastward into New Mexico. It is tall and the flowering > stalks are held high above the plant, the entire thing can be over 25 ft tall. > Plants look grassy and have many small white filaments that are at the base of > the leaf making them look hairy. > > > Yucca baccata - Banana yucca is native to the mid elevations of Arizona > north into New Mexico and Nevada. The plant is pretty variable, it can be > tall, about 6-8 feet tall, or trailing along the ground. The leaves are > generally dusky blue grey but in some populations are a beautiful pale blue > green. The flowers are large and close inside the head. They are reputed to be > edible as are the seed pods. > > > Ocotillo - Fouquieria splendens is native to Arizona with small isolated > populations in Nevada and California. It is part of a small family that is > limited to the deserts of Baja, Sonora and the U.S. of which the boojum tree > is the most remarkable. This plant can lose its leaves, to conserve moisture, > many times during the year. The bloom is beautiful, a cluster of red tubular > flowers held at the end of the long stems. > > > Boojum - Fouquieria columnaris is related to the ocotillo as noted above. > It is an unusualy looking plant, tall (over 50 ft in nature) with a whitish > smooth skin on a trunk that is wider at the base than the top. Stems are very > thorny and occur irregular intervals on the plant. It is entirely summer > dormant, and blooms while it is dormant. > > > Aloes - This is a large genus of succulent plants, most of them from > southern Africa, all of them from the Old World. Horticulturally, most like > some shade here, but there are so many it is hard to generalize too much. > > > Octopus Agave - Agave vilmoriniana is not common in nature but is becoming > very common as an ornamental in Phoenix. It can be large, up to 6 ft across > and almost that tall, and has very soft, curved unarmed leaves. In areas > colder than Phoenix some attention needs to be paid to frost protection for > this plant. I can recommend some books for you to check for more detailed information. Agaves of Continental North America by Howard S. Gentry, Sonoran Desert Atlas by Turner and others, Boojum by R. Humphrey should help some. Good luck, Mary Irish > > > > > > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Fran > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Tue Nov 16 00:45:59 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:45:59 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose this might be the sphinx moth larva.look in arid gardener archives. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 11:54 AM Subject: Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose > Hello, > > I'd suggest that you bottle up a few of the black worms and take them into > the county extension office at 4341 East Broadway in Phoenix. An alternative > of this would be to make a very detailed description of the worm in another > question to the arid_gardener in hopes that someone on the board can identify > it for you. > > I doubt you will have much success with the Mexican Primrose until you can > control what is feeding off of it. > > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > Master Gardener Volunteer > Apache Junction, AZ > > > In a message dated 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, > RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com writes: > > << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time > From: RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com > To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > Last February I planted many beds of Mexican > > (spelling?). The plants flourished and then were attacked by some insect or > black worm. The plants were soon stripped of all leaf and bloom. They had a > leggy barren look. I replaced all in June and again they flourished,but were > soon attacked again. They have been in this leggy barren look for most of the > summer. The plants are under drip irrigation. Yesterday I trimmed back some > of the barren stems and discovered that many show signs of life. Is there a > trick to growing these things? How do you treat this plant for insect (worm) > infestation? There is new leaf growth at the base of some plants and already > the lefs are showing signs of being eaten. > > > > From CarlovClin@aol.com Tue Nov 16 03:33:37 1999 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:33:37 EST From: CarlovClin@aol.com CarlovClin@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Native Seed Search, headquartered at Tucson Botanical Gardens exists to collect and propagate the old varieties of plants grown locally. I acquired several seta of I'itois onion from a demonstration garden at the East Campus of Pima Community College. It is a mold flavored multiplier that is well adapted to Sonoran desert rainfall. It grew last winter during the winter rains and again during the summer monsoons. I would be glad to share some sets if I had an address. Clinton Andrus From redworm@netzone.com Tue Nov 16 13:03:09 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 06:03:09 -0700 From: Jerry English redworm@netzone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] L'itois onion This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is Payson to far north? Would love to get them started for local garden = club. redworm@netzone ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is  Payson to far north? Would = love to get=20 them started for local garden club. = redworm@netzone
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF2FF8.42549EA0-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Nov 16 15:45:56 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:45:56 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: Fwd: I was asked to forward this to you >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 08:57:29 -0700 >To: Carol Noyes >From: Terry Mikel >Subject: Re: Fwd: I was asked to forward this to you > >This is a response on an inquiry about mesquite trees in lawns and the >grass suffering. . . . Mesquite trees in lawns offer a couple pressures to >the grass. First is the the competition for water. . . .Second and >probably more important is the shade affect. . . .Grass needs lots of sun >and the vigororous mesquites can easily shade large areas quickly. . . >.About some unknown fungus interacting or some other alepathic interaction. >. . .I have not heard of any but we do know about the shade and water >issue. . . >Terry > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Nov 16 17:31:03 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:31:03 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose I have a whole section of my yard in the Mexican Evening Primrose and what you saw this summer is a very normal pattern. This feeding damage is usually caused by an insect called a "Flea Beetle" - immature stage looks like a smal dark worm maybe 1/4 inch long and the adult is a small dark colored beetle. You can check in the University of Arizona website for the 'Horticultural Communicator' newsletter archives for an article written on it earlier this summer, when the problem was showing up all over the area. Many of us who grow this flower in our yards count on this insect to come in each summer and prune the plants, as the Mexican Evening Primrose can be pretty invasive if it grows unchecked. Overall the insect does no major harm and you rarely need to replant with new plants - in fact, putting fresh plants into the infested area just gives them some new food and extends the insects expansion cycle. Once the insects have pruned the plants for you, rake out the dead stems and debris in late summer. The plants are usually a bit dormant at that point, especially in full sun. But as soon as cooler temperatures hit in late September or early October (or this year, in November) the crowns and roots of the Primrose plants start sending up new healthy buds. Mine are loaded with new growth the last couple of weeks. The insect doesn't show again until middle of next summer, after you have enjoyed 6+ months of blooms. Within another month yours will be blooming again and go on through next summer. Not everyone gets this insect in their primrose and those that do get it, don't necessarily have it each year so you may see it again next year, or it may pass you by - you may also see others in your neighborhood whose plants are still blooming a bit in summer when yours are eaten down. You can decide to spray an insecticide next summer when the damage first starts to appear, but keep in mind that these insects do only minor damage to the plants, which always recover from the underground rhizomes and crowns - it may be best for your family, pets and neighbors to skip spraying an insecticide at all and just work around it. Good Luck! Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County ********************************************************* -----Original Message----- From: don olson To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 7:37 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose >arid_gardener >this might be the sphinx moth larva.look in arid gardener archives. >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Cc: >Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 11:54 AM >Subject: Re: Black worm & Mexican Primrose > > >> Hello, >> >> I'd suggest that you bottle up a few of the black worms and take them into >> the county extension office at 4341 East Broadway in Phoenix. An >alternative >> of this would be to make a very detailed description of the worm in >another >> question to the arid_gardener in hopes that someone on the board can >identify >> it for you. >> >> I doubt you will have much success with the Mexican Primrose until you can >> control what is feeding off of it. >> >> >> JeanSciFi@aol.com >> Master Gardener Volunteer >> Apache Junction, AZ >> >> >> In a message dated 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, >> RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com writes: >> >> << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> Date: 9/10/99 8:17:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time >> From: RobertFlowersJR@MSN.com >> To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> >> Last February I planted many beds of Mexican >> >> (spelling?). The plants flourished and then were attacked by some insect >or >> black worm. The plants were soon stripped of all leaf and bloom. They had >a >> leggy barren look. I replaced all in June and again they flourished,but >were >> soon attacked again. They have been in this leggy barren look for most of >the >> summer. The plants are under drip irrigation. Yesterday I trimmed back >some >> of the barren stems and discovered that many show signs of life. Is there >a >> trick to growing these things? How do you treat this plant for insect >(worm) >> infestation? There is new leaf growth at the base of some plants and >already >> the lefs are showing signs of being eaten. >> >> >> >> > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From curtis@primenet.com Tue Nov 16 21:07:35 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:07:35 -0700 From: Starr & Judy Curtis curtis@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Euphorbia Amak Variegata General care for euphorbias: Let the soil become dry to the touch between waterings. When you do water, do it until it comes out the bottom. This prevents salt buildup. If it is in the ground the same thing applies--water well when you do but let it dry out between. Fertilize monthly in summer with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 diluted to half strength. They also benefit from a little bone meal and a little limestone mixed with the soil (about 1tablespoon per gallon of soil). Judy Curtis, Master Gardener > Date: 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: Azgopher@juno.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > arid_gardener > This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At >what rate do I water it until it is established ? From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Nov 16 20:57:49 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:57:49 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable The first fertilization on a winter ryegrass lawn is usually sometime = after the first mowing. Prior to that, the seedlings are too young to = need or take up any fertilizer you apply. Check with your yard = maintenance people on this - they may already have the fertilizer = application scheduled. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County ********************************************************* -----Original Message----- From: Gaye Clark To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:11 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas =20 =20 thank you. I will go out and check it this morning. We have had it = in about 3-4 weeks and it's watered daily ( per our lawnman). shouldn't = it be fertilized soon as well? -----Original Message-----=20 From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com]=20 Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM=20 To: gaye.clark@asu.edu=20 Cc: arid gardener list=20 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas=20 =20 =20 Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass = seedlings can=20 suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, = combined with=20 the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor = drainage or=20 soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are = spots that=20 get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or = similar. I=20 would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and = poke it=20 into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering.=20 You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical = that you=20 actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem = areas -=20 make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you = have=20 sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is = penetrating the=20 soil evenly where you want it to.=20 If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in = all the=20 way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two = reasons.=20 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is = still hard=20 and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus = due to=20 overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the = drainage.=20 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then = the soil=20 is compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of = your=20 spriklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the = sprinkler=20 pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also = immrpove the=20 drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of = running off.=20 To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the = area to=20 loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce = the=20 hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand = into the=20 holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration.=20 Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I = would not=20 recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually = expensive,=20 fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if = you have=20 an underlying problem with watering or drainage.=20 You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. = If you=20 got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should = have shown=20 you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started = and then=20 tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make = sure that=20 you are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much = water can=20 often lead to disease problkems also.=20 Hope that this information is helpful.=20 mike hills=20 Volunteer Master Gardener=20 Mike Hills=20 Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales=20 Seed Research of Oregon=20 5314 West Luke Avenue=20 Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA=20 tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298=20 email mhills_sro@msn.com=20 WEB www.sroseed.com=20 *************************=20 -----Original Message-----=20 From: gaye.clark@asu.edu =20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu =20 Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM=20 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=20 =20 =20 >arid_gardener=20 >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back = that=20 have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the = grass=20 was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is = front and=20 back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be?=20 >=20 >=20 >_______________________________________________=20 >Arid_gardener mailing list=20 >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=20 >=20 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead = areas
The first fertilization on a winter = ryegrass=20 lawn is usually sometime after the first mowing.    Prior = to=20 that, the seedlings are too young to need or take up any fertilizer you=20 apply.      Check with your yard maintenance = people on=20 this  - they may already have the fertilizer application=20 scheduled.
 
Mike Hills
Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa = County
 
*********************************************************=
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Gaye Clark <GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu>
To:=20 'Mike Hills' <mhills_sro@email.msn.com>=
Date:=20 Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:11 AM
Subject: RE:=20 [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas

thank you. I will go out and check it this = morning. We have=20 had it in about 3-4 weeks and it's watered daily ( per our lawnman). = shouldn't it be fertilized soon as well?

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com<= /A>]=20
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM =
To: gaye.clark@asu.edu
Cc: arid = gardener=20 list
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass = dead=20 areas


Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the = ryegrass=20 seedlings can
suffer from several fungal = diseases=20 due to the excess water, combined with
the = hot=20 temperatures.    Usually this occurs in areas with = poor=20 drainage or
soil compaction.   = Please=20 check if those areas in your yard are spots that
get=20 extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or=20 similar.   I
would suggest that = you take a=20 long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it
into the=20 soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering.

You did say that it is not due to lack of water, = but it is=20 critical that you
actually check the soil = water=20 condition in those specific problem areas  -
make sure that the soil is not dry or too = wet.    The=20 fact that you have
sprinklers going does = not=20 necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the
soil evenly where you want it to.

If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing = the=20 screwdriver in all the
way, then the = compaction is=20 causing the problem for one of two reasons.
1)   If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, = but the=20 soil is still hard
and the screwdriver = won't go in,=20 then you have damping off fungus due to
overly wet=20 conditions.   Need to loosen the soil to improve the=20 drainage.

2)  If the soil in that area is dry and the = probe won't=20 go in then the soil
is compacted and also = may have=20 problem with the overlap pattern of your
spriklers=20 not wetting the area enough.   Need to adjust the = sprinkler=20
pattern to be sure all areas get watered = sufficiently and=20 also immrpove the
drainage of the soil = there so the=20 water can soak in instead of running off.

To improve the drainage in those areas, you can = dig or=20 rototill the area to
loosen, or perhaps = just use a=20 long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the
hardened=20 crust.   If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand = into=20 the
holes you make, you will see much = better soil=20 penetration.

Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such = as damping=20 off, I would not
recommend spraying with a = fungicide=20 product.   These are usually expensive,
fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that = effective if you=20 have
an underlying problem with watering = or=20 drainage.

You didn't mention how long since you planted your = ryegrass=20 seeds.   If you
got instructions = from your=20 nursery or garden center, they should have shown
you=20 proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and=20 then
tapering off the watering frequency = as the=20 plants mature.    Make sure that
you=20 are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much water=20 can
often lead to disease problkems = also.=20

Hope that this information is helpful.

mike hills
Volunteer = Master=20 Gardener
Mike Hills
Research=20 Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales
Seed Research = of=20 Oregon
5314 West Luke Avenue =
Glendale, Arizona    85301    = USA
tel(623)435-9393   =20 fax(623)435-5121    cell(602)909-7298 =
email    mhills_sro@msn.com
WEB     www.sroseed.com

*************************
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 gaye.clark@asu.edu <gaye.clark@asu.edu>
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu = <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>=20
Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM =
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW = page=20


>arid_gardener
>Recently=20 planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back = that=20
have died. I went over to see why a brown spot = had occurred=20 and the grass
was brown and dry and just = pulled out=20 when I tocuhed it. This is front and
back. = it's not=20 due to lack of water. what could it be?
>=20
>
>_______________________________________________ =
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener<= /FONT>=20
>


------=_NextPart_000_0055_01BF303A.91494DC0-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Nov 16 22:08:39 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:08:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose - FYI -----Original Message----- From: Robert Flowers, JR To: Mike Hills Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 3:12 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose >Thank you so very much for the info.........The plants are pushing up great >new growth just as you described. ------------------------------------------------------------- >----- Original Message ----- >From: Mike Hills >To: >Cc: arid gardener list >Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:31 AM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose > > >> I have a whole section of my yard in the Mexican Evening Primrose and what >> you saw this summer is a very normal pattern. This feeding damage is >> usually caused by an insect called a "Flea Beetle" - immature stage looks >> like a smal dark worm maybe 1/4 inch long and the adult is a small dark >> colored beetle. You can check in the University of Arizona website for >> the 'Horticultural Communicator' newsletter archives for an article >written >> on it earlier this summer, when the problem was showing up all over the >> area. >> >> Many of us who grow this flower in our yards count on this insect to come >in >> each summer and prune the plants, as the Mexican Evening Primrose can be >> pretty invasive if it grows unchecked. Overall the insect does no major >> harm and you rarely need to replant with new plants - in fact, putting >fresh >> plants into the infested area just gives them some new food and extends >the >> insects expansion cycle. Once the insects have pruned the plants for >you, >> rake out the dead stems and debris in late summer. The plants are >usually >> a bit dormant at that point, especially in full sun. But as soon as >cooler >> temperatures hit in late September or early October (or this year, in >> November) the crowns and roots of the Primrose plants start sending up new >> healthy buds. Mine are loaded with new growth the last couple of weeks. >> The insect doesn't show again until middle of next summer, after you have >> enjoyed 6+ months of blooms. Within another month yours will be >blooming >> again and go on through next summer. >> >> Not everyone gets this insect in their primrose and those that do get it, >> don't necessarily have it each year so you may see it again next year, or >it >> may pass you by - you may also see others in your neighborhood whose >> plants are still blooming a bit in summer when yours are eaten down. >You >> can decide to spray an insecticide next summer when the damage first >starts >> to appear, but keep in mind that these insects do only minor damage to the >> plants, which always recover from the underground rhizomes and crowns - >it >> may be best for your family, pets and neighbors to skip spraying an >> insecticide at all and just work around it. >> >> Good Luck! >> Mike Hills >> Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County >> ********************************************************* >> From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Nov 16 23:08:59 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:08:59 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Shade >Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:07:26 -0700 >To: mikesmower@aol.com >From: "Mike Hills" (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >Subject: Shade > >arid_gardener > >Here is a file copy of the Horticultural Communicator article on shade = >problems with turf from earlier this year. May give you some = >additional ideas on your turfgrass problems under the mesquite trees. > >mike hills - Volunteer Master Gardener > >*********************************** > >Can=92t See Your Grass For The Trees? Or The Mystery of the Dead Shaded = >Grass > >As plant attached people, we all have some personal experience with =93a = >walk in the woods=94. As we walk through the woods, we notice a = >definite lack of =85=85=85=85=85. Yes, that=92s right =96 GRASS. As a = >general rule, we do not expect to see grass growing under the trees in = >Nature =96 in fact we all know that you look for grass in open, sunny = >areas among the trees such as meadows. But, somehow when we gardeners = >move into the realm of our own yard, we forget what we already know and = >we expect to have lush, thick grass under our own trees. After all, we = >manage to manipulate most other plants to grow where and how we want = >them to grow. And, to add further strain to our lawn growing efforts, = >we insist on pruning the turf plants very short and leaving a much = >reduced leaf surface to harvest the limited sunlight that reaches past = >the tree canopies. Turf is a good choice for recreation and for = >cooling benefits on the home, but Low Desert residents have to be = >realistic about where we can grow it. > >The turfgrass species used around the world have entered Mankinds=92 = >turf world from wild and maintained pastures. This includes both the = >cool climate turfgrass species (fescues, bluegrasses, bentgrasses, = >ryegrasses, etc.) that originated in Europe and the warm climate species = >(bermudagrasses, zoysias, bahias, St. Augustine, buffalograsses, etc.) = >that originated in various hot or tropical regions of the world. In = >all cases, mowed and maintained turfgrasses were originally chosen for = >their ability to withstand and thrive under the constant traffic and = >grazing pressure of our animal herds =96 the first lawn mowers. A = >pasture is a manmade duplication of the natural grasslands and prairies = >around the world - wide open spaces, with few shrubs or trees to = >compete with the grass plants for nutrients and water, and plenty of = >sunlight. A successful manmade turfgrass area is generally the same = >duplication. > >Plant breeders have made many improvements over the years to our = >turfgrass choices through selection and breeding for desired traits such = >as color, texture, density, disease & insect resistance, reduced water = >needs, etc. However, shade tolerance is one area where very little = >progress has actually been made. These are after all plants that = >evolved over millions of years to fill an ecological niche in full sun = >conditions =96 turfgrass breeders have only been working on this for a = >few hundred years and it will take longer to match Mother Nature=92s = >success. =20 > >A few turfgrass species tend to be more tolerant of shade than others, = >but this does not mean that they are truly =93shade loving=94 plants. = >Comparing the same plants in sun or shade, the plants with adequate = >light levels will always be healthier and more vigorous. Sadly for Low = >Desert gardeners, the turf species that are more tolerant of shaded = >conditions are not very tolerant of our temperature and pH extremes. = >In a few situations, we can manage to get some grass to hang on in heavy = >shade, but it will not be as healthy as the surrounding sunny areas, and = >will always be more susceptible to insect and disease pressures during = >the more stressful times of the year. > >We actually need to concede defeat to Mother Nature, and convert our = >heavily shaded areas to flower and vegetable beds or plant these areas = >to shade loving ground covers. If you or your MG Hotline clients still = >insist on growing grass in those areas, there are a few cultural = >practices that can help improve your chances. Removing some trees to = >increase sunlight; pruning the tree crowns upward and thinning the = >canopies periodically to let in more light; mowing the shaded grass = >taller to allow more leaf surface; or planting a different turf species = >under the trees that is more shade tolerant. Over the long term, the = >first three choices are generally more successful. For the last = >option, we desert dwellers can plant zoysiagrass or tall fescue and have = >some success in our shaded turf areas. However, these will need = >different levels and types of nutrients, water and mowing than the = >surrounding grass areas AND, the turf gardener will have to diligently = >monitor the shaded turf for insect and disease problems.=20 > >I would recommend taking Mother Nature=92s advice. Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Nov 16 23:11:16 1999 Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 16:11:16 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Primrose - FYI arid_gardener Gaye Clark - now that the seedlings are 4 weeks old, you definitely = need to change the watering schedule to water a lot less often, but for = longer periods each time. 5 minutes per day, just about every day = is not healthy for the grass and can actually lead to stress and disease = problems. To sprout the seedlings initially, your maintenance people = should have been watering several times per day, every day for about 5 = minutes each time - for the first 3-4 weeks, until the first mowing. = Then, you start reducing the water schedule to water deeper, but not = quite as often - this promotes a healthier turfgrass plant. I highly recommend that you check out the Arizona Republic Home & garden = section for the Saturday issue in mid October that included how to = overseed. This article had step-by-step instructions that you need to = discuss with your maintenance contractors. I have tried to paste the = original text version of the article in the message below, but you may = still want to check the Republic's website for the actual article. One critical thing to check now, is to be sure you are not watering at = night or in the evening. If the grass seedlings go into the cooler = evening and night with a lot of moisture on the leaves, fungal diseases = are almost guaranteed. The grass should be watered in the morning or = perhaps the afternoon, so that there is enough time for the leaves to = dry off before sunset each day. If none of these answers seems to quite fit the bill, and you've = discussed this with your maintenance people, then you may need to = re-seed the entire area and start over. Perhaps applying a general = purpose turf fungicide at the time of seeding to reduce the chance of = disease. Also, do not put any fertilizer down with the new seeding, = until those plants are first mowed. It may also be possible that your grass seedlings are stressing for = water - did they cover the seed with mulch or manure when planted, or = are the seeds laying exposed on top of the ground? If they are = exposed, and since we are having this unusually hot fall weather, it is = very possible that the seedlings are burning up due to lack of water and = too high temperature, even though your soil probe shows the soil is soft = and has water in it. Many landscape, sports field and golf firms do = not bother with mulch or manure application over the seed , and in most = years this is not a real problem. But, with our hot temperatures this = year on any exposed seedings may be part of your problem. Hope this helps - mike hills ************************************************************* Fall Overseeding. Go For The Green! Sharon Dewey, Special for the Arizona Republic If you really enjoy that dead-grass look, then by all means don=92t = overseed this fall. But if a functional turf area is part of your = landscape design, and you have spent all spring and summer nurturing = your lawn, start planning for overseeding so you can enjoy your little = patch of green all year. You also will be protecting the dormant Bermuda = by insulating the growing crown, which produces new shoots. Here=92s = what you do: Overseeding established Bermuda lawns with winter rye can be done from = mid-October through mid-November. Temperatures should be reaching the = mid-sixties at night on a consistent basis for good overseeding weather. = This article covers the Seven Steps for Overseeding: Managing Bermuda = Grass, Scalping and Dethatching, Selecting Seed and Sowing, Top = Dressing, Watering, Mowing, and Fertilizing. 1. Managing Bermuda Grass 1.. Your Bermuda grass needs to be managed to slow down growth and = encourage food storage for dormancy. But do not overseed your Bermuda = lawn until its second year. 2.. Do not fertilize for four to six weeks before overseeding. 3.. Two weeks before overseeding, reduce watering by 50 percent. 2. Scalping and Dethatching 4.. Scalp (mow) Bermuda grass to =BD inch in height. 5.. Heavy dethatching of Bermuda grass should not be a part of fall = overseeding. 6.. Dethatch only if heavy thatch exists (more than =BD inch), and = just enough to open the canopy and allow the seeds to make contact with = the soil. Thatch is a fibrous, straw-like layer between the soil and the = grass blades. 7.. Early and midsummer dethatching is best. 8.. If dethatching is done too late in the summer or in early fall = when temperatures are warm (above 90 degrees), it may indirectly injure = the grass because the Bermuda will put energy into new growth instead of = slowing down and preparing for its winter rest. Bermuda grass needs this = slowing period in order to successfully compete in the spring with any = surviving rye grass. 3. Selecting Seed and Sowing 9.. Rye grasses, both annual and perennial, make up the majority of = the grass types used for overseeding. 10.. Annual rye grass is less expensive per pound than perennial = rye, but it requires more seed to cover the same area. Perennial rye is = often preferred since it is a darker green, more disease resistant, = easier to mow, and finer bladed. It is also less likely to stain = clothing, shoes and kids. 11.. Determine the amount of seed: Annual Rye =96 10 to 15 pounds per 1,000 square feet Perennial Rye =96 8 to 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet 12.. Sow the seeds evenly by hand or use a spreader. 13.. Spread half of the seeds in one direction and the other half = perpendicular to the first direction. 14.. Drag or rake the seeds to ensure that it makes contact with the = soil 4. Top Dressing 15.. Cover the seed with no more than 1/4 inch of weed-free material = such as peat moss or forest mulch. 16.. Another option is to cover the seed with grass clippings = instead of mulch. To use this method, scalp the lawn at 3/4 inch instead = of =BD inch, then follow Step 3 for Selecting Seed and Sowing. After = seeding the area, use a reel mower without the catcher and mow the = remaining Bermuda stubble (about 1/4 inch), leaving the clippings to = cover the seed. 17.. Top dressing is an optional step that can help retain moisture = and moderate temperature for seed germination. It is especially helpful = if cool temperatures come early. (Hey! sometimes it happens here in the = desert!). However, some people have had success without top dressing = during years with normal, moderate weather. 5. Watering 18.. Keep the seeds damp for seven days. 19.. Water three times a day for short durations (5 to 10 minutes) = at 10 a.m., noon and 2 p.m. Water four times a day if you do not top = dress. 20.. If temperatures are below 100 degrees (we can only hope by = mid-October!), water two times per day (about 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. is = ideal) for 5 to 10 minutes. 21.. When the grass emerges to one inch, reduce watering to once a = day, applying 1/4 inch of water. 22.. After the second mowing, reduce the water to an as-needed = basis, applying =BD to 1-3/4 inches per week. 23.. Once the lawn is established and depending on temperature, wind = and rain, watering may be reduced to every other week or as often as two = to three times per week. Water only enough to avoid wilt between = waterings. 6. Mowing 24.. When the grass is about two inches high (about two weeks after = overseeding), mow to a height of 1-1/2 inches. Perennial rye can be = mowed lower, but it is best to allow the grass to become established = before closer mowing, or else seedlings may be pulled out. 25.. Use a sharp mower blade. Dull blades shred the grass tips, = which turn brown and can create entry wounds for diseases. 26.. Do not mow when the lawn is wet or seedlings may be pulled out. 27.. The One-Third Rule determines when to mow established grass. Cut only the top one-third of the grass blade at any mowing. Removing more than one-third interrupts photosynthesis (the plant=92s ability to make food) and causes some of the deeper roots to die. 7. Fertilizing 28.. About two weeks after overseeding, fertilize with a 16-20-0, or lawn starter fertilizer. Then water in the fertilizer. 29.. Don't fertilize too early or the Bermuda may start to compete with the rye, and don=92t wait too long or the rye seeds may die for lack of nutrition. 30.. After your winter lawn is established fertilize every four to six weeks with one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, using a balanced fertilizer such as a blend of 21-7-14. Keeping your lawn green all winter pays great dividends. It maintains the beauty of your landscape design, allows you to continue having a functional area for children and pets to play, and provides space for family gatherings. It also protects your dormant Bermuda. But remember that proper maintenance year-round keeps your lawn healthy and helps you save water, time and money. And yes, appropriate turf areas are one of the seven principles of xeriscape. So, it=92s okay to Go for the Green! Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional at Western Sod and is a Master Gardener volunteer for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. ******************************* -----Original Message----- From: Gaye Clark To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:21 AM Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas =20 =20 Okay, I went out and the screwdriver goes the entire length into the ground fine. The sprinklers are set at 5 minutes 5 days a week. Our yard man sets them to not be on on Weds and Thurs. as he mows on Thursdays. So what should I do now? Re seed these areas, fertilize, or what? It looks terrible and it looked so nice. Maybe a rain dance would help! -----Original Message-----=20 From: Mike Hills [mailto:mhills_sro@email.msn.com]=20 Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 2:31 PM=20 To: gaye.clark@asu.edu=20 Cc: arid gardener list=20 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas=20 Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass seedlings can suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, combined with the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor drainage or soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are spots that get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swing sets or similar. I would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering. You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical that you actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem areas make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you have sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the soil evenly where you want it to. If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in all the way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two reasons 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is still hard and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus due to overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the drainage. 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then the soils compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of your sprinklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the sprinkler pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also improve the drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of running off. To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the area to loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand into the holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration. Even if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I would not recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually expensive, fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if you have an underlying problem with watering or drainage. You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. If you got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should have shown you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and then tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make sure that you are not over watering the grass as it gets older, as too much water can often lead to disease problems also Hope that this information is helpful. mike hills=20 Volunteer Master Gardener=20 Mike Hills=20 Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales=20 Seed Research of Oregon=20 5314 West Luke Avenue=20 Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA=20 tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298=20 email mhills_sro@msn.com=20 WEB www.sroseed.com=20 *************************=20 -----Original Message-----=20 From: gaye.clark@asu.edu =20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu =20 Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM=20 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page=20 >arid_gardener >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? From crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Nov 17 18:40:50 1999 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 11:40:50 -0700 From: Cathy Rymer crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: ASDM seeks Landscape Gardener >Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 20:14:17 -0700 >From: David Sewell >Subject: ASDM seeks Landscape Gardener >To: AZPLANTS@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU > >[Posted for Sandi Lehman . Please reply >to address given in notice, not via email. --DS] > > ------------------------------------------------------ > LANDSCAPE GARDENER > > The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum is seeking qualified applicants for > the position of Landscape Gardener. Primary responsibilities include > assisting the Botany staff with maintaining and creating plant-related > exhibits on Museum grounds including planting, pruning, watering, > irrigation installation, fertilizing, and weed and pest control. > Weekend, holiday and evening work may be required. Minimum six months > directly related experience, such as horticultural or outdoor work > experience in the Sonoran Desert region. A working knowledge of > desert landscaping is required. Must be able to lift/carry 50 pounds, > endure extensive physical labor, e.g. lifting, digging, bending, etc. > Ability to tolerate exposure to elements. Must have good > communication skills and be self-motivated to develop professionally. > Send letter of interest and resume to Human Resources, Arizona-Sonora > Desert Museum, 2021 N. Kinney Road, Tucson, AZ 85743. No phone calls > please. Closing date November 19, 1999. No relocation allowance. > EOE > > -------------------------------------------------------- > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from this list, send the command SIGNOFF AZPLANTS to >LISTSERV@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU, or send a request to >AZPLANTS-request@LISTSERV.ARIZONA.EDU. From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed Nov 17 19:25:55 1999 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:25:55 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Jessica - will mail you today the information on the Arizona Herb Association, and our herb planting and care sheet as well. Really suggest you purchase the 2 books I mentioned previously to help you with herb and vegetable growing questions all year - "Desert Gardening for Beginners" and also 'The Low Desert Herb Growing Handbook" - both are available at the Extension Ofice on Broadway. ALSO, THERE IS A HERB GARDENING CLASS BEING TAUGHT THIS SATURDAY AT THE EXTENSION OFFICE - contact Lori Thompson for details on class and fees - lthompson@rocketmail.com I'm not sure what to tell you to grow under the euc tree to compete with the aggressive eucalyptus roots. Would suggest yu send that as a new question to this arid gardener master gardener list and see who responds. One thing to keep in mind - herbs like more sun than most people think - more sun = better growth and better flavor - be sure that your Euc. tree is not shading the herb bed too much - you may need to prune up some of he lower branches to allow more sunlight in. On your soil additives you mention - hope this means that you mixed these into your existing soil and did not just pour this stuff on top of the ground and plant directly into the compost - mixing into your existing soil is far far better. As far as watering the herbs you presently have planted, here are some thoughts: These herbs do vary a little in their water needs - the basil and the mint probably use the most - so you might be bettter off using a different drip emitter to each seperate plant. Adjustable emitters are available that allow you to open and close the end so you can control how much water the different plants recieve. Here are some tips on the individuals: BASIL - this is a summer herb that is frost sensitive - your plants are too young to make it through the winter, but will do well for a while, until freeze. Next spring, plant your basil as soon as frost danger is past in early spring and the plants will mature a lot more by winter 2000 and have better chance of surviving winter freeze. LEMON THYME - an excellent, very flavorful plant that can root root fairly easily - be sure this plant is along the edge of the bed, or raised up (NOT in a depression) so that the water drains away, and does not pool around the stem - THYME - ditto APPLE MINT - mints do like a little more water to be the most productive - mints are extremely aggressive and invasive and are very heavy feeders, stripping the soil of nutrients as it grows and spreads. We have ahd the best luck corraling it by cutting the bottom off a 5-10 gallon plastic nursery tree or shrub container (so that it now looks like a long tube) - bury this inthe ground, with about a 2 inch lip sticking above and fill the center with enriched soil, with some general fertilizer added. Plant trhe mint plant in the middle, and be sure an emitter is cut through the side or otherwise reaches the center of the buried pot., The mints invasive underground rhizomes (stems) only go about 8-10 inches deep, so it cannot get loose in your garden, except if it escapes over the top lip of the pot. After about 1 year/1 season, you need to dig this out, pull out some rooted, healthy parts of the mint plant, toss the rest on your compost pile (it will be overgrown and stemmy and going downhill) - rebury the pot, refill wiith new rich soil and replant the salvaged rooted stems and go another year. OREGANO - likes moderate water and rarely root rots, but be sure it is not in a depression that will allow water to pond around the stem and crown as this will promote root rot. Lots and lots of different tatses and strengths of oregano - be sure that you like the tatse fresh and dried of the one you have before you go much further. We always tell people to taste the small plants first - if no good taste now, will not get better in your garden - taste likes & dislikes on this are very personal and vary from person to person. SAVORY - Summer Savory is a warm season annual (dies with winter frost), while the Winter savory is a long lived perennial plant. Both need water like the Oreganoes. MARJORAM - several different types of marjoram but they all respond and grow similar to the oreganoes. ITALIAN PARSELY - the parselys are technically biennial plants meaning they grow one full season as vegetation with leaves to harvest - the second spring, they go tto bloom, set seeds and die mid-summer. This is just the life of the plant and cannot be changed. We find often that transplanted nursery parsley planst will only last one year - bolting to bloom in late summer the first year. Planting parsley from seed direct in your garden usually has more success getting it to live the full 2 years. Higher water liker, so good output on htis herbs emitter. CHIVES - regular garden chives do well here all winter and spring, but in 99% of the gardens, they disappear in response to our summer heat and you have to replant when fall returns. Garlic Chives are a garlic tasting version that you can harvest for 11 months - in January they disappear into the ground, but the roots regrow in February and thhe clumps get bigger and healthier each year. SAGE - extremely prone to root rot. Very critical to be sure of good drainage. Dig a large, deep hole and back fill with gravel, sand, coarse barks, pebbles, etc. mixed in with the soil and then plant the plant. Absolutely NO depression to collect water or the sage plant will die. Evene with these precautions, many sage plants die in mid-late summer from stresss anyway - just be aware and replant. Be sure only one low volume dripper on the sage and that the emitter is away from the base of the plant - not right against the stem. ARUGULA - actually we do consider this a herb plant. Grows excellent all winter and the more you harvest the better it grows and produces. In spring, with heat the leaves can get hotter and bitter - your personal taste. Does like good water supply. Good Luck with your gardening Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener ************************** -----Original Message----- From: Jessica Turvey To: 'Mike Hills' Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 6:57 PM Subject: RE: Responses to Your Questions Mike: Thank you for your prompt and very detailed response. Here are the answers to your questions: 1) The 2' X 6' herb plot is not raised bed. 2) The soil was amended with a blend of Home Depot's "Omni Mix," mulch and some manure. 3) I have put the following herbs into this garden: Basil (purple ruffle and green), lemon thyme, thyme, apple mint, oregano, savory, marjoram, Italian parsley, chives, sage, and a non-herb, arugula. You are right about the invasive nature of the eucalyptus tree. Maybe that explains why the flowering plants we put around the tree in the early spring have not done as well as expected. If you have any suggestions as to what might be more successful to plant there I would be interested in knowing. Thank you also for all of the herb book and association ideas. I would like to receive information from the AZ Herb Assoc. My mailing address is: Jessica Turvey 15632 South 17th Street, Phoenix, AZ 85048 I appreciate all your help! Sincerely, Jess T. ---------- From: Mike Hills Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 3:54 PM To: jess@cvweb.com Cc: arid gardener list; Arizona Herb Association Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Hello and thanks for the question - The specific watering requirements will differ depending on which herb species you planted. Some herb plants grow larger than others, and some are higher water users than other species. Also, the amount and system of water delivery will be effected by the type of soil in your herb garden. Did you amend the soil with organic matter, or are you using our native soil with its higher clay content? Is this a raised bed, or planted directly into your yard soil? Some herbs such as Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Sage are much more prone to root rot and should be planted in well drained soil and not receive too much water. Others such as Basil, Oregano, Lemongrass, Chiles, Sorrel, Mints, Lemon Balm, Gotu Kola, etc. like or at least tolerate extra water. Please let me know which specific herb plants you have planted and I will try to give you more detailed advice. Also email your mailing addresss and I will have the Arizona Herb Association mail you their info sheet on soil preparation and watering for herbs grown in The Valley. This local herb gardening club meets the first Thursday of each month (except for December) at 7 pm and meetings are either at the Palo Verde room at the Extension office, or are at the Community Room at the Pueblo Grande Museum. The telephone voice mail system and the website both will tell the meeting topic and the meeting location for each month. We welcome guests at our meetings - dues are $25 individual and $35 for a family per year - this includes meetings, monthly newsletter and discounts on many books available at our meetings and out monthly functions. You can check out information on the Arizona Herb Association and their upcoming meetings (some of the Spring meetings will have topics concerning soil and irrigation) by calling tel #602-470-8086 ext. 830 or checking our website at www.accessarizona.com/Community/Groups/AzHerb You may also want to go check out local herb demo gardens to get some ideas - we maintain a demonstration herb garden at the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 east Broadway Road AND we also advise the Desert Botanical Gardne on their herb demonstration garden. The Arizona Herb Association also has a great book published on growing herbs in this area "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" available for $10 including postage - mail to : Az Herb Assoc., P.O. Box 63101, Phoenix, AZ 85082 The Master Gardener Press has also published an excellent book for beginning gardeners in this area, and this book includes a section on herbs that may be helpful. "Desert Gardening for Beginners' by Cathy Cromell - send $10 check made out to University of Arizona - mail to: Master Gardener Program, Maricopa County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - OR, you can pick up the book at that office for $8.00 walk in. One thing to keep in mind under your Eucalyptus tree - keep the dropped leaves cleared away from the plants on a regular basis. Eucalyptus leaves do not mulch down very well and may also leach substances into the soil that slow growth of other plants. Eucalyptus trees also have extensive, invasive roots systems that often compete with other more shallow rooted plants making it difficult to grow other flowers and plants under these trees. You may have no problems, but please keep this in mind for later reference. ALSO, the October 22 issue of the Arizona Republic had a good article on planting and care of Fall Herbs in their Arizona Home and Gardening section. I believe you can access this article online at the Arizona Republic's website, or call them to order a back issue of the paper. Look forward to hearing back from you. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association, Phoenix ************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: jess@cvweb.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: > >Question #1: >Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. > >Question #2: >If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? > >Question #3: >Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? > >Thanks for your feedback! > >Jess T. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Nov 17 19:37:14 1999 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 12:37:14 -0700 From: Cathy Rymer crymer@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Changes at the Arizona Republic For any subscribers to the list that read the Saturday edition of the Arizona Republic, there may be changes in the future of the AZ Desert GardenGuide section. The directive to the paper as a whole is provide shorter more consumer oriented articles. This may mean drastic changes in the current format of this section. U of A Master Gardener volunteers, agents, and local professionals may no longer be contributing articles. If you are happy with (or have suggestions for) the current presentation of local, research-based information that has been a part of the Arizona Republic garden section since March of this year, please let the paper know about it. Ms. Linda Vachata, The Arizona Republic, 200 East Van Buren, Phoenix, AZ 85001. Linda.Vachata@pni.com Email Your feedback is important to them in making decisions for the future of the AZ GardenGuide. Thanks for your attention. Cathy From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed Nov 17 22:06:27 1999 Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 17:06:27 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hanging Planter Hi Paul, It sounds like your planter is tall and narrow (4ft high with inside width of 4 inches). I'm not quite sure where this watering tube is located and how it will function. The written word is sometimes difficult when it comes to describing something. I looked up the Mandevilla plant you mentioned. I don't find any species recommended for the low desert. Sunset puts us in zone 13 and it lists zones 21-24, 4-9 and 14-21 for your plant but these zones are never completely accurate. Your container sounds like it might be fun to do some experimenting with. I'd fill it with a premium quality potting soil that I premixed with some encapsulated time release fertilizer that will slowly leach out nutrients each time you water. I'd look for plants that will cascade over the sides to soften the appearance of the plastic pipe. Here is where the experimenting would begin for me. I haven't been in the valley very long so I'm sure others could suggest better plants but I'll give you some of my ideas anyway. I've wondered how maybe a ground cover like some of the lantanas might do as a cascading plant in a planter. How would one of the bright red bougainvillea vine type species do if allowed to cascade? These plants seem to be able to take our heat and are drought tolerant. Of course there are plants like verbena, trailing lobelia, sweet alyssum, nasturtiums etc. A lot depends on the season, what's available in the nurseries and how much you want to fuss. I'm trying sweet peas in one of my planters along with ivy leafed geraniums. Birds keep eating my lobelia. I'd just have fun trying things, just like you must have enjoyed making your planter. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/14/99 4:39:56 PM US Mountain Standard Time, uitti@primenet.com writes: << Subj: Hanging Planter Date: 11/14/99 4:39:56 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: uitti@primenet.com (Paul S. Uitti) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com Jean, Thanks for the interest in "my" hanging planter. I'll try to answer the questions you asked. 1. I can hang it in either full sun or full shade, but regardless, it'll get a lot of light. We have a large covered patio (about 15 feet by 65 feet). The patio faces south and on the east end is a vertical lattice work to form something of a room without a wall on the west end of this area. It's more of a privacy area ... good place to read or maybe even have a drink of something. Anyway, it's shady there, but it gets as warm as north Scottsdale gets during any season. I suppose the could reach a hundred or so in the summer, but we did have snow for a couple of days last winter. (Not too good a place to read or drink at that time of the year) 2. The planter is roughly 4 feet high and the inside diameter is 4 inches. Inside of the thing, I installed a 3/4 inch pipe (PVC) which I drilled 1/8 inch holes throughout for watering. 3. I used black PVC only because it was available in my garage, I could and probably will paint it white before I do anything with it. 4. We live in the north Scottsdale area, a mile or so north of Pinnacle peak and near the Troon Mountain. 5. I'm not fussy about annuals or perennials, I am willing to use either, but I would like color. If I lived in Michigan where I came from, I would probably try mandevilla for the summer, they are very showy and have good green leaves. I don't know if they would grow here, but they should, 'cause they originated in Mexico or somewhere south of here., I think. Anyway, thanks again for listening. Paul From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu Nov 18 14:53:19 1999 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:53:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Guidance requested Hi Lucy, I've not approved the last two administrative notices only cause I'm afraid to. The messages seem benign enough but I don't know where they are coming from. It sounds like they are using the wrong method and just need instruction as to how to reach the arid gardener general board. Do you have any guidelines or help in how I'm to make any decisions as to what to approve or not? Maybe I should be leaving the decisions to you? Seems we are getting fewer questions. Have we changed something that makes the board less accessible or is it just the season? Bye, Jean From ClaireASP@aol.com Fri Nov 19 01:07:44 1999 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:07:44 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Nov 19 02:21:30 1999 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:21:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Claire: Perhaps I can help, I found Cercis reniformis in my copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book, which is the latest revised edition. It reads: Native to Southwest. Leaves leathery, blue green, 2-3 in. wide, with rounded or notched tips. Flowers as in C. canadensis (which lists flowers of rosy pink in early spring); variety 'Alba', with white flowers, is sold in West. I could not find a mention of height specific to this variety, however, C. canadensis grows 25-35 ft. tall. This was bothering me, I just HAD to find out more so I did a search of the Net and found the following website owned by New Mexico State University: http://weather-mirror.nmsu.edu/AbqPlantList/small/smalldec.htm They show a height to 25', but not much more information. Hope this helps a little! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Daisy@doitnow.com Fri Nov 19 00:54:35 1999 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 17:54:35 -0700 (MST) From: Daisy@doitnow.com Daisy@doitnow.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are ornamental pear trees susceptible to Texas Root Rot? Can someone tell me what the watering schedule should be? I am suddenly responsible for a row of about fifteen ornamental pear trees, all with problems. The old ones have a lot of dead branches. The young one, planted this past spring and doing well until recently, have a lot of wilted and crispy leaves(new growth). There also is a white fuzzy growth (aphids?) on the petiols of many of the affected leaves. From eldol46307@aol.com Fri Nov 19 04:20:04 1999 Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:20:04 -0700 (MST) From: eldol46307@aol.com eldol46307@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We lost a Australian Bottle Tree; perhaps to Texas root rot. It died slowly, perhaps over several months. It never looked really good, now it looks really bad. We have several questions. How long do we have to take it out and still be able to tell what caused it to die? What do we need to take to a Nursery for them to evaluate cause of death? When is the best time to plant a replacement tree; now or in the spring? If it was Texas Root Rot, what kind of trees should we exclude from our choices? Thanks for much for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Larry and Gail From tate@dzn.com Sat Nov 20 18:05:32 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:05:32 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation I receive the following letter from a resent post from a John Poder (I think)and I have lost John's E-mail address. I don't understand what he means with 11/2 in his Example: A tree--. If possible, please redirect this E-mail to him. Dale, You can use this as a guide. As a rule, the roots of a tree will be in the first 3 feet of soil. A shrub or bush in the first 2 feet of soil. Accent plant ( low growing plants, flowers or veggies) are in the first 1 of soil. I like to bury my emitters half the depth of the roots of the plant being watered. Example: A tree would have the emitters 11/2 feet deep and be placed between 2/3 the distance between the trunk and canopy of the tree. I carry this through with all my plants remembering that the feeder roots are at the edge of the canopy and thats where the water should be. Using this procedure, water doesn't reach the top od the soil so any weed seed that may have blown in don't get watered and I have few if any weeds.I run the system for hours then let the soil dry out a bit before watering again. The result I've found is less water used because its into the root zone right a way and no weeds because the top of the soil stays dry. --- Dale Tate wrote> I use plastic T-tape to irrigate my ished. Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Nov 20 23:07:09 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Pear with problems Daisy, Yes the Evergreen Pear is very susceptible to Texas Root Rot. It is also subject to iron chlorosis and zinc deficiency as well as fireblight, crown gall, and root knot nematodes. Its problems are too multiple to make my favorite tree list. It is most important that trees growing in our low desert be deep watered, this means for most trees a watering depth of at least three feet, and a summertime interval of not less than one week and winter watering at three to four week intervals. Differing soil consistencies can change this somewhat. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.htm With the number of trees that you have to care for I would suggest that you contact a certified arborist for a course of action in caring for these trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Nov 20 23:07:51 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:07:51 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottled Tree Dying Larry and Gail, Yes the Bottle Tree is quite susceptible to Texas Root Rot, however the symptoms that you describe do not sound like Texas Root Rot where the tree collapses suddenly and the leaves hang on to the tree. The first thing that I would look at is the irrigation. Are you deep watering and what is the interval. Has there been any construction nearby? Have you applied any weed killer on grass or weeds? What about pool backwash water? Have you applied fertilizer and how much? How old is the tree? Is there caliche where the tree is planted? If you bring a sample of foliage to the U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix someone will try and give you an answer. If you will answer the questions I may be able to give you an answer on line. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Volunteer Master Gardener and Arborist From mastersgardener1@juno.com Sat Nov 20 19:09:33 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 12:09:33 -0700 (MST) From: mastersgardener1@juno.com mastersgardener1@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system From lencleo@aol.com Sat Nov 20 22:46:09 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 15:46:09 -0700 (MST) From: lencleo@aol.com lencleo@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 20 ft saguaro that has six arms and is growing three more, Last yr. the woodpeckers made a home in it.My question is in a few places there are huge brown spots,are they dead or is the catus sick. Thank you for your help. From umiller@azdps.com Sun Nov 21 17:18:06 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 10:18:06 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water System Installation You might try Tip Top Nurseries. They have short classes on Saturday mornings at their various locations. I went to the one last spring on drip water systems and it was very useful. I don't know if they still offer that class, but you might call them and find out. Ursula ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, November 20, 1999 12:09 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page | arid_gardener | Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system | | | | _______________________________________________ | Arid_gardener mailing list | Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu | http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener | From PatMertz@mail.maricopa.gov Sun Nov 21 05:03:40 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 22:03:40 -0700 From: Pat Mertz - MCDOTX PatMertz@mail.maricopa.gov Subject: [Arid_gardener] sycamore trees I had a nursery plant a 24" box sycamore tree about a year ago. I missed a few deep waterings this past summer, but it was getting watered from my lawn sprinklers 3 mornings a week. All of the leaves on the tree have died and the ends of some of the branches are dry and brittle. The remaining portion of many of the branches seem to be "green", that is flexible and springy. Based on this info, do you think that the tree will be able to make a comeback this spring? If so, should I prune the dry and brittle portions of the branches? Thanks for any help you can offer. From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 21 18:29:45 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 11:29:45 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Courses on Irrigation For a listing of classes offered in Maricopa County on gardening and landscaping see: The quickest way to find a particular topic is to go to the top of the web page. Click on "Edit" on the tool bar and select "Find in Page", you will be given a box to type in the particular topic (e.g. "irrigation") then click "Find Next". The cursor will proceed to the first place on the page with that word. Click "Find Next" again and it will move to the next spot all the way down the page. In this way you can identify all the courses that list irrigation in their description. At 12:09 PM 11/20/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >Do you offer any training courses on the installation of a water system > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 21 21:42:18 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 14:42:18 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Heritage fund grant proposals due 11/30/99 --=====================_15691220==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Grant Proposals for Arizona Game and Fish Department Heritage Funds are due= =20 Nov. 30, 1999 Funds Available For 1999 Grant Cycle (FY 99-2000): Environmental Education=85.......................$35,600 Schoolyard Grants=85=85.............................$60,000 Urban Wildlife and Urban Wildlife Habitat...$246,000 for more information see Good Luck! Lucy Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/=20 --=====================_15691220==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Grant Proposals for Arizona Game and Fish Department Heritage Funds are due Nov. 30, 1999

Funds Available For 1999 Grant Cycle (FY 99-2000):

Environmental Education=85.......................$35,600

Schoolyard Grants=85=85.............................$60,000

Urban Wildlife and Urban Wildlife Habitat...$246,000

for more information see

<http://www.gf.state.az.us/frames/other/hert_inf.htm&= gt;


Good Luck!
Lucy

Lucy K. Bradley
Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture
Maricopa County
The University of Arizona
Cooperative Extension
4341 E Broadway Rd.
Phoenix, AZ  85040-8807

Phone:  (602) 470-8086 ext 323
Fax:  (602) 470-8092
email:  BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ --=====================_15691220==_.ALT-- From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun Nov 21 22:53:31 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:53:31 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] FREE Composted Horse Manure in Central AZ FREE Composted Horse Manure available in Cave Creek, AZ Bring a truck and have it loaded for you, You are welcome to as much as you want. Call Perri at (480) 488-1034 to arrange a time for pick-up Location North on Cave Creek Road Past Lone Mountain Take the 4th Street past Ocupado It is paved and only goes West (Left) This ends on 48th St. where you will go Right On Desert Forest go Left Pavement ends on 46th Street Go right on 46th 'till the pavement ends You'll see Lacaballeriza. Pull up to the gate and wait Note, Just stick to the pavement and you'll make all the right turns Be sure to bring a tarp to cover the load to prevent it flying away!! Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From white@nwf.org Sat Nov 20 23:07:03 1999 Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 16:07:03 -0700 From: Jean White white@nwf.org Subject: [AG] National Wildlife Federation on-line course to train Wildlife Habitat Stewards Habitat Stewards On-line! General Interest Inquiry Greetings! The National Wildlife Federation would like to offer an on-line course to train Habitat Stewards in the year 2000! Anyone can become a Habitat Steward! No prior knowledge is needed, only your enthusiasm for wildlife and the environment and willingness to help others. If you are already certified in the Backyard Wildlife Habitat program, this is a great choice for you- but being certified is not mandatory for the class. Habitat Stewards is the volunteer training and mentoring arm of the National Wildlife Federation's Backyard Wildlife Habitat program. Through the Backyard Wildlife Habitat program, NWF assists individuals, families, and organizations in discovering wildlife and connecting with nature through the creation of wildlife habitat, at home, school, and places of work, worship, and recreation. Those who meet the basic requirements of providing habitat are rewarded with national recognition through a certification process. Every certified Backyard Wildlife Habitat site has four basic elements needed by all species: food, water, cover, and places to raise young. To date, NWF has recognized over 25,000 individuals, families, and organizations through the national certification process. Once you have completed the on-line course, you will be capable of assisting others in your community in the creation or preservation of habitat for wildlife. Please take a moment to respond to the following questions so that we may best serve your needs: 1. Please list any groups or organizations at which you currently volunteer your time and expertise. How many hours per week do you volunteer? (a) 0-3 (b) 3-5 (c) 5-8 (d) 8-10 (e) 10-12 (f) 12- 15 (e) 15 or more 2. If you were given the option of taking a class on line, or attending the same class in person, which would you choose? 3. Have you ever taken an on-line course before? If yes, what types of courses have you taken? If no, would you ever take an on-line course? If no, why not? 4. What would motivate you to take an on-line course with NWF?(Choose all that apply) (a) Continuing Education Units (b) Graduate School credits (c) Undergraduate credits (d) Non-formal professional development (e) to learn more about the content area (f) to learn more about technology (g) Other, please specify: 5. How many hours a week would you spend in an online class? (a) none (b) .5-3 .5 (c) 3.5-7 (d) 7-11 (e) 11-15 (f) 15 or more (g) Other, please specify: 6. How many weeks would you participate at the above frequency? (a) none (b) 1- 3 (c) 4 - 7 (d) 7 - 10 (e) 11-14 (f) 15 or more (g) Other, please specify: 7. Describe your comfort level with using technology? (a) not comfortable (b) limited comfort (c) moderately comfortable (d) very comfortable 8)What time of year would you prefer to take an on-line training? (a) Jan-March (b) April-June (c) July-Aug. (d) Sept.-Dec. Is there a specific month that is best for you? Please specify: 9. Do you have a VCR in your home? 10. Do you have a personal computer in your home? 11. Do you have access to the Internet at home? At work? What speed is your modem connection? 12. Respondent information: Name: Age: Sex: Address: City/State: Profession: Part-time/Full-time/Self-employed/Retired/Other? PLEASE RESPOND TO JEAN WHITE AT: White@nwf.org Thank you! _____________________________________________________________ Have you seen our List Picks of The Week? Get Informed, Entertained, Enlightened at Topica. http://www.topica.com/t/7 From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Mon Nov 22 00:37:26 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:37:26 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Mon Nov 22 00:39:36 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:39:36 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Mon Nov 22 00:45:12 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 16:45:12 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] watering plants while on vacation For extended vacations try this. Get an inexpensive timer that hooks up to a hose bib. Disconnect the cold water line to your clothes washer and hook up the timer. to the timer fasten a 1/2 inch poly tube and run it to your bathtub. Place your plants in the tub with the drain open and hook up drip emitters to the line for each plant.Set the timer, turn on the cold water line and enjoy your vacation knowing the plants will be watered at the proper time and with the proper amount of water. Have fun. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Nov 22 01:12:09 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 20:12:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Sycamore Trees with burned leaves Pat, It is important to deep water any tree planted in a turf area and especially the Sycamore during our hot summers. The grass had adequate water but the tree did not. If you have not already done so I suggest a deep watering now and once a month during the cooler weather. By deep watering we mean water that penetrates at least three feet deep. You can prune back the dead branches to a live side branch that is 1/3 the size of the main branch. If there is still green on the branches the tree is still alive and should survive if there are not other problems. The Sycamore is susceptible to Anthracnose fungi which will cause early leaf drop and twig die back. The leaves would have had brown irregular blotches on them. If this is the case be sure to dispose of all leaves and dead twigs and branches. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From emy_wa@aol.com Mon Nov 22 01:05:48 1999 Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 18:05:48 -0700 (MST) From: emy_wa@aol.com emy_wa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My mother has a potted blue pseudopilocereus azureus which has reached a height of 7'. I am afraid the slender cactus will just fall over and someone will be hurt. I currently have a sling around it because the plastic pot is warping from the plant's weight. Is it too old (over 10 yrs)to transplant into the yard? Who would be a likely person to do the work? Are there buyers for such plants? Any info which you can give me will be greatly appreciated. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 22 21:14:26 1999 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:14:26 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Information about Texas Root Rot Hi, One of the best publications I've come across about Texas Root Rot is a Cooperative Extension Publication 192014 called diseases of Urban Plants in Arizona. It can be purchased from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe. The disease is difficult to fight, is frequently found in our alkaline soils, usually kills established trees during the hot summer months. The identification of the fungus (P. omnivorum) can be done by an expert with a hand lens. The cortical tissue of a rotted, decayed root is examined for the presence of mycelial strands on the surface of the cortical tissue. I doubt that the normal nursery person could make this determination. Someone from the extension office might be able to if you took a specimen there. The article I mentioned above does have a treatment described but says that the pathogen is so aggressive that it might not work. It would be worth a try though if you caught an infected tree in time to actually do something. The article says that monocot plants like palms, agave, yucca, bamboo's and many perennial ornamental grasses are immune. It says that many native dicots like Blue, foothills and sonaoran Palo Verde's are resistant but not immune. This list also includes the Chilean and Honey Mesquite, jojoha, desert willow and sweet acacia trees. A few non native trees have resistance as well, like Mulberry, Aleppo pine and citrus trees. The publication would be very informative and more complete. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/19/99 8:47:29 AM US Mountain Standard Time, eldol46307@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/19/99 8:47:29 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: eldol46307@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We lost a Australian Bottle Tree; perhaps to Texas root rot. It died slowly, perhaps over several months. It never looked really good, now it looks really bad. We have several questions. How long do we have to take it out and still be able to tell what caused it to die? What do we need to take to a Nursery for them to evaluate cause of death? When is the best time to plant a replacement tree; now or in the spring? If it was Texas Root Rot, what kind of trees should we exclude from our choices? Thanks for much for your time and expertise. Sincerely, Larry and Gail >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 22 22:37:25 1999 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:25 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Possible Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro Hi, Hopefully someone with more experience with Saguaro will pick up your question to answer. Your description brought to mind Cooperative Extension publication 8837 called Control of Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro. I'll give some of the symptoms for your comparison. If there is a match I'd get this publication from the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe or post a question to the arid_gardener asking for the control of this disease. Symptoms: They may appear at one or more positions on the trunk or branches of saguaros at any time. The first external indicators of bacterial necrosis are usually a circular darkening and softening of the plant tissues. In time, the infected area usually enlarges, becoming purplish-black, and splits open. If such an opening occurs, a dark odoruous material will freqauently "leak" from the plant. At other times, the soft areas dry and crack, revealing the dark, dry remains of disseased tissues. If conditions are favorable, the plant can confine the disease to a "pocket" by forming a barrier of protective tissue (callus) around the affected area. If this tissue does not rapidly form or if it is breached in some way, the infection will spread. Thus, there is no way to predict how long a plant might survive following the occurrence of such symptoms. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/21/99 9:13:46 AM US Mountain Standard Time, lencleo@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/21/99 9:13:46 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: lencleo@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a 20 ft saguaro that has six arms and is growing three more, Last yr. the woodpeckers made a home in it.My question is in a few places there are huge brown spots,are they dead or is the catus sick. Thank you for your help. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 22 22:37:27 1999 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:27 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Cercis Reniformis (Oklahoma Redbud) Hi, I found one short mention the C. reniformis (Oklahoma Redbud) in the American Horticultgural Society Encyclopedial of Garden Plants. What I found is as follows: 'Oklahoma' has waxy, glossy,richy green leaves with rounded tips and dark wine red flowers. 15 ft by 15 ft zones 6-9. The zones were not identified as to whose so I think that info is meaningless. It could be the American Horticultural Societyies Plant Heat Zones but several zonal maps were in the book and I didn't find the key to what was being used in the article. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/18/99 6:21:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time, ClaireASP@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/18/99 6:21:28 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: ClaireASP@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I bought tree called Oklahoma Redbud. The scientific name on the tag says,"Cercis Reniformis" I want to know more information about this tree, so went to my Sunset Western Garden Book. It listed several varieties , but not the Reniformis. If you have any information about this tree, I surely would appreciate hearing from you. One of the things that I would like to know is; how tall does it tend to grow, and what is it's widest span? Anything else you have to offer about this tree would be a plus! Hope to hear from you; and thanks so much for the service you provide. _______________________________________________ >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Nov 22 22:37:29 1999 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:37:29 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Tree information Hello, The county extension office has a number of publications on Citrus. They can be purchased from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway in Tempe, AZ. I believe if you actually go to the office you can have a certain number of publications free. Irrigation Needs of Citrus MC17 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona 8670 Low Desert Citrus Varieties MC87 Many Nurseries also carry a selection of books, like Sunset's Citrus book that you might find useful. One thing I found interesting about citrus fruit is that it doesn't sweeten once picked off the tree. It has an optimum time to be picked regardless of its color -- the time it will be the sweetest. The chart I saw for several different varieties of Grapefruit listed Late November thru May. Do you know which variety you have? I picked some white grapefruit from a friends tree last summer that were very good. I understand they sometimes have overlapping crops on a grapefruit, that is some of the old ones are still on the plant while the new crop is developing. We have several citrus people who answer questions on the arid_gardener, perhaps one will find your question and give you additional information. If you get a chance I'd try to ask the last owner of your property some information about the grapefruit tree. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/14/99 3:38:14 PM US Mountain Standard Time, sandstrom.family@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/14/99 3:38:14 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. thank you From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 23 15:44:54 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:44:54 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Dale,On a full grown tree place the emitters at least two thirds the distance from the trunk of thetree to the canopy edge. I would place enough emitters around the tree as to water the perimeter ( about every 3-4 feet). In the case of a new,small tree,I would make a spiral with the 1/2 inch poly starting from the farthest edge of the canopy when the tree will be full grown and spiral the tube around the tree to where the canopy is now placing emitters where the future roots will be. This will eliminate moving the drip system as the tree grows and keep the soil moist for the new roots to grow in. --- Dale Tate wrote: > At 05:57 PM 11/22/99 -0800, you wrote: > >1/2 that distance or 11/2 foot deep. In the case of > a > Sorry about that. Sometime mail goes out before it's > edited. This version > may read better. > > > John, > > I finally figured out that you meant 1 and 1/2 foot > deep which would be one > half the 3 foot root zone for a tree. Just did not > comprehend what 11/2 > feet deep which to me meant 5 and 1/2 food deep. > > Now the fact is I have a pecan tree about 37 years > old and I certainly > can't dig a eighteen trench around the circumference > of a tree at or near > the drip line. What I can do is place the source > line just below the turf > about 1 inch deep, then drill a hole eighteen inches > deep and drop a lead > weighted dripper off the main line attached to a > micro tubing into each > hole. The soil is rather sandy but at that depth is > rather compacted. > > What would be your best guess as to how far apart > these dripper in the > holes should be and would just one circle of dripper > be sufficient. > > Sorry John, just never had any experience > installing drip system. You know > even a small tree, say with say a six foot canopy is > likely to grow. Does > one keep adding circles of drippers. > > Happy Holidays > > > > Dale Tate > 5305 Anchorage Ave. > El Paso,TX 79924 > > http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html > 915.751.3879 > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Nov 23 16:33:29 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:33:29 -0700 From: Walter Morrow wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers The original poster buries drip system emitters halfway down into the root zone; e.g. for a tree with a 3' root zone he would place the emitters 1.5' down. My question is, does the moisture move up as well as down through the soil? How well does the soil above those emitters get wet? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 23 22:02:55 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:02:55 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Walter, I have found that in establishing a running time for the system that the soil is evenly wet around an emitter. As an example if I run the system for lets say one half hour, it will wet an area about the size of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the watering time so that the top inch or two of soil stays dry, you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less work. I have been doing this for years with good success. --- Walter Morrow wrote: > arid_gardener > The original poster buries drip system emitters > halfway down into the root > zone; e.g. for a tree with a 3' root zone he would > place the emitters 1.5' > down. My question is, does the moisture move up as > well as down through the > soil? How well does the soil above those emitters > get wet? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Nov 23 22:39:55 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:39:55 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do the buried emitters plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a porous material around the buried emitters? Olin Miller john peder on Tuesday, November 23, 1999 3:02 PM wrote: Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > Walter, I have found that in establishing a running > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet around > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for lets > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the size > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the watering > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays dry, > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less work. > I have been doing this for years with good success. From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 23 23:14:26 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:14:26 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers First of all, I don't put the emitter at the end of the 1/4 inch tubing. I put it into the 1/2 inch poly then plug the 1/4 inch tubing into the emitter. I dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to set, not push the tube into place and just backfill with soil. Keep in mind the drip system is working with about 30 psi and is enough to wet the soil and not plug up. I have systems that are 10-15 years old and with the normal maintainance needed for a drip system,(flushing once in a while) they are still working perfectly. --- Olin Miller wrote: > arid_gardener > Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do > the buried emitters > plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a > porous material around > the buried emitters? > Olin Miller > > john peder on > Tuesday, November 23, > 1999 3:02 PM wrote: > Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > > Walter, I have found that in establishing a > running > > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet > around > > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for > lets > > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the > size > > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the > watering > > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays > dry, > > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less > work. > > I have been doing this for years with good > success. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 23 23:19:08 1999 Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:19:08 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers I use standard pressure compensating emitters and just push the regular soil back into the hole, not amended --- Olin Miller wrote: > Question for john peder: What type of emitters? Do > the buried emitters > plug up? Is it necessary or advisable to place a > porous material around > the buried emitters? > Olin Miller > > john peder on > Tuesday, November 23, > 1999 3:02 PM wrote: > Subject: Re: [AG] Re: Drip System Depth of Drippers > > Walter, I have found that in establishing a > running > > time for the system that the soil is evenly wet > around > > an emitter. As an example if I run the system for > lets > > say one half hour, it will wet an area about the > size > > of a basketball around the emitter.So in answer to > > your question,yes, it will wet a complete circle > > around the emitter. Now if you can adjust the > watering > > time so that the top inch or two of soil stays > dry, > > you won't be wetting weed seed. That means less > work. > > I have been doing this for years with good > success. > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com From WA2MGE@MPINET.NET Wed Nov 24 23:54:58 1999 Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 16:54:58 -0700 (MST) From: WA2MGE@MPINET.NET WA2MGE@MPINET.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I LIVED IN ROSWELL, N.M. UNTIL JUNE 1998, WHEN I MOVED TO FLORIDA. DURING MY RESIDENCE IN N.M., I WAS FORTUNATE TO HAVE AVAILABLE A PRODUCE PRODUCT CALLED "ARIZONA LEMONS" THESE LEMONS WERE TWICE THE SIZE OF COMMON LEMONS, BUT PERFECTLY FORMED LEMONS, THEY HAD A GREAT TASTE, AND A CLEAR, FIRM, AND THICK SKIN, AND WERE NOT WHAT IS COMMONLY CALLED "PONDEROSA LEMONS", WHICH ARE DISTORTED AND HAVE AN ODD SKIN. MY QUESTION, WHAT IS THE VARIETY OF THE SO CALLED "ARIZONA LEMON", AND CAN IT BE OBTAINED BY SOMEONE IN FLORIDA, FOR PLANTING IN A BACKYARD CITRUS GROVE? HOPING THAT YOU CAN HELP ME, THANKS FOR YOUR EFFORT. From mehunter7@aol.com Thu Nov 25 15:48:09 1999 Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:48:09 -0700 (MST) From: mehunter7@aol.com mehunter7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it too late to plant wildflower seeds? From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu Nov 25 15:55:59 1999 Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:55:59 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemons Lis