From cbi64@webtv.net Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 From: Barbara Isaac by way of Lucy Bradley cbi64@webtv.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] help i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for 15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a 16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. thanx From cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:15:41 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 11:15:41 -0700 From: Carolyn Chard cchard@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Howdy from the Desert Rat! Rose & tulip, lemon & lime, I can't think how to finish this rhyme! Carolyn H. Chard cchard@ag.arizona.edu "You make a living by what you get; you make a life by what you give." From mike.todd@asu.edu Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:22:02 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Barbara, We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) to Texas Root Rot*: Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) Hope this helps. *From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp 103-104. >Message: 1 >Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >) >Subject: [Arid_gardener] help > >i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >thanx Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:05 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS Please reply to these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 12:20:54 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS Please reply to each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? thank you. r2beshon@AL.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700 Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:19:18 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves Mike Todd I think you could have a couple of things going on with this bottle tree (I'm assuming that this is the Australian Bottle Tree - Brachychiton populneus) that is so commonly planted in the metro-Phoenix area. Texas Root Rot is quite common with these trees, but generally the leaves seem to die almost overnite and stick on the tree, rather than changing color and falling off - and the younger leaves at the branch tips should be dead also for Texas Root Rot. These trees are generally partially deciduous, meaning that periodically they will shed many of their older leaves and then flush out with fresh leaves. Sometimes this is a seasonal response and sometimes a response to stress - heat, lack of water, disease, salt, etc. The individual tree response varies greatly from clone to clone. If the tree looks healthy otherwise, has retained some of its older leaves and the branch ends all have new leaves emerging, then it is probably this response, rather than root rot. If you choose to keep this tree and help ot recover, rather than replacing at this time with a more root rot tolerant species, then I would also like to suggest that you need to change your watering pattern to help the tree recover and continue to grow healthy. Many people place the bubblers/drippers at the base of the young tree when forst planted and then do not move and adjust them outwards as the tree matures. For a 5 year old tree, your water source should be out at the drip line of the tree, not near the base. Moving the drippers/bubblers out to the area on the ground that is directly under the outer edge of the leaf canopy will make for a far healthier tree as that is where the tree's feeder and water absorbing roots are located. Watering too near the trunk can promote disease and also make for a shallow root system that is more prone to stress. Also, you need to adjust your watering schedule to take into account the fact that the tree is more mature now. You are currently wateriing your tree too often, and for way too short a period each time - too frequent and short of waterings will lead to a shallow, stress prone root system, along with accumulating salts in the root zone. You should be watering the tree for much longer at a time, but watering far fewer times since it is now 5 years old and considered a mature tree. By watering for a longer period, the water will soak in far deeper and help to flush accumulated salts out of the root zone. With this deeper watering schedule, you can probably cut back your watering to once every 2 or 3 weeks. Specific information on suggested tree watering schedules will depend on how much water your bubbler/drip system puts out over a set period of time. Details on this are available from your city's water conservation office, as well as on the University of Arizona website. Hope that this is helpful Mike Hills Maricopa County Master Gardener Volunteer *********************************** From: Michael Todd To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: cbi64@webtv.net Date: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:23 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bottle tree losing leaves >arid_gardener >Barbara, > >We have a friend in Mesa who also lost a mature bottle tree this summer. >In her case, I suspect Texas Root Rot (a soil fungus). This fungus tends >to kill trees off pretty quickly, and bottle trees are known to be >susceptible to it. Others on the e-mail list might have other ideas about >what went wrong (e.g., grubs, poor drainage), but my guess is Texas Root >Rot. If you confirm that this is the problem, you should consider >planting a resistant species, as the fungus will stay in the soil for >years. Here is a brief list of trees that are resistant (but not immune) >to Texas Root Rot*: > >Aleppo Pine (Pinus halepensis) >Arizona Cypress (Cupressus arizonica) >Mesquite (Prosopis spp.) >Palo Verde (Cercidum spp.) >Arizona Sycamore (Platanus wrightii) >Sweet Acacia (Acacia farnesiana, a.k.a. Acacia smallii) >Lysiloma, a.k.a Fern of the Desert (Lysiloma microphylla var. thornberi) >Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) > >Hope this helps. > >*From Brookbank, G. (1992). Desert Landscaping: How to Start and Maintain >a Healthy Landscape in the Southwest. Tucson: U of Arizona Press, pp >103-104. ******************************************> >>Message: 1 >>Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:09:29 -0700 >>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>From: cbi64@webtv.net (Barbara Isaac) (by way of Lucy Bradley >>) >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] help >> >>i hope you can help. i have a bottle tree that has started to lose its >>leaves. the tree is 5 years old and is over 20" circumference at the >>base and is over 25' tall. the leaves on the branches are turning yellow >>then brown and falling off. this is happening on the branches yet the >>leaves on the ends of the branches are still green. i water the tree for >>15 minutes 2x per week with three bubblers at the base. the tree is in >>rocks with no other vegetation. the tree was fertilized in April with a >>16-16-16 mixture. what is causing this problem. am i over watering? do >>i need to fertilize again. your input will be greatly appreciated. >>thanx > >Mike Todd >Graduate Research Associate > >Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 >Arizona State University | Arizona State University West >PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 >Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 > >E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu >ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 >ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:53:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS (Sow- or Pillbugs) Sowbugs/pillbugs are found in very damp, shaded areas feeding on dying or decaying vegetation. Refer to the entomology section of the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/relatives.html I have not known this critter to eat roots, however. Since they are attracted to moisture, could you be overwatering, resulting in roots rotting while attracting these rolypolys? I have known them to feed on small transplants, but this was vegetative, not root. Perhaps you've another issue? Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there > something i > can put in the soil to eradicate them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:08:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care for Ponytail Palm [Beaucarnea recurvata] You've wisely chosen a southern/western indoors' exposure for a plant that likes plenty of good lighting. I've not had personal experience with this as an outdoor plant, but the Sunset Western Garden Book (page 180) suggests that it is viable outside in our zone. I'd watch carefully for the amount of summer sun, however. In my personal experience, the single most important factor is your watering practice. This plant will like to be deeply watered, but infrequently; drying out between waterings will be important. I drowned my last ponytail! Make sure run-off drains into a saucer and that it is not reabsorbed back into the root ball, carrying back any salts that the first watering leached from the container's soil. Tips on the end of foliage can mean lack of water, but overwatering or poor drainage are also likely candidates. Use a soil probe to check for the moisture of the root ball. The plant could also have been overfertilized (meaning heavy salt content); of course lack of fertilization could also be a factor. I normally stop fertilizing houseplants until spring growth recommences. My personal practice and the recommendation of our Indoor Plant Selection and Care publication #8828 is to trim brown leaf tips and margins following the shape of the leaf. I am not aware of specific advice to the contrary for Ponytails. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener jbh@azstarnet.com wrote: > How often should I water a ponytail palm? It is in a room that gets southern and western light. > It is about 4-5 ft tall and has several branches coming out of the main trunk. i got it at an estate sale and it has a lot of browning on the tips. > What can be done for that? I read you are not supposed to cut off the brown parts. > Thanks for your advice From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:32:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:32:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Citrus and Bougainvillea in Quartsite Mr. and Mrs. Goff, First, permit me to suggest that your county's Cooperative Extension office may be a better source of information for your particular area of Arizona. The only online publication we have is AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus When you get to this index of the Home Horticulture website you will also notice some other publications that can be ordered by mail at $1 each from: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 602/470-8086 (ext 301) There used to be an old U of A citrus publication 8464 called Citrus Trees in the Home Garden that covered most growing topics including fertilizing, watering, pruning, frost protections etc. You can ask about it at the phone number above. But your own Extension Office might just as well have it. As to bougainvilleas, most thrive on a bit of neglect. Indeed, the colorful bracts which are not a true flower, are most profuse when the plant is feeling a bit stressed for water. Overwatering will generate lush green vegetation. I have never had the need to fertilize mine in the past. Wait until danger of frost passes in the spring time to trim damage from cold temps. I hope this is helpful to you. Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener NollieR@redrivernet.com wrote: > We are looking for information on growing citrus trees & bougainvillea in Quartzsite AZ. Can you give us some tips and/or reading material. On line if possible. Thank you. Doris & Ray Goff. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:09:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Landscape software Hi Manfred, There is a review of several landscaping programs in the National Home Gardening Club Magazine for Nov/Dec. I'll list them below starting with the one that appears to give you the most flexibility. Complete Land Designer v. 5.0 (Sierra) price $50.00 Burpee 3D Garden Designer (Heat Zone Edition) Price $30 Expert Landscape Design 3D v. 5 price $12.00 Imagine Your Landscape (Adex) price $50.00 Planix Landscape (Autodesk) Price $20 If you do not have access to this magazine and are interested in more information about one of these I can type in the information given. If you are in the local Phoenix area and have access to a fax machine I could also fax the entire page to you. There is also a CD called Desert Landscaping but out by the Water Resources Research Center. You can probably locate it most easily at the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway, Tempe, AZ JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time, helspermc@mindspring.com writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/16/99 3:26:17 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: helspermc@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I am looking for software packages that will allow me to design landscaping ,inclusive of the usage of desert plants and cacti. The software should draw plans and produce a list of items used with associated costs. Pls. let me know of your recommendations and sources for aquisition. Thanks, Manfred Helsper >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:50:31 EST Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:50:31 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Hibiscus Hi, Probably the best reference I can give you is the address for a Hibiscus Society. It is located in Florida but they are willing to answer questions from AZ. Very friendly people. They also publish a Hibiscus Handbook. I've sent for the book but it hasn't arrived as yet. The address is http:\\ww.trop-hibiscus.com In a message dated 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time, BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 10/11/99 10:04:46 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: BNKJOHNSON@prodigy.net To: arid_gardener-outgoing@Ag.Arizona.Edu I need information or tips on how to get a big, beautiful tropical hibiscus to produce more blooms along with its great foliage- I feed it Miracid and diluted vinegar (roots only!) once a month. Thank you! >> From GailThiele@aol.com Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:01:21 EST Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 18:01:21 EST From: GailThiele@aol.com GailThiele@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] care and feeding of certain plants The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. Thanks. Gail A. Thiele gailthiele@aol.com From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 18:30:53 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Houseplants Check out the University of Arizona Publication on House plants It is in PDF format so you will need acrobat reader to open. For instructions on how to download a free copy see Yes moisture meters can give accurate indication of moisture present and it would not be unusual to have the top of the pot dry out prior to the bottom of the pot and so get different readings at different levels in your pot. Moisture will evaporate off the top and gravity will pull it to the bottom. Good luck with your house plants! At 06:01 PM 11/03/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >The Master Gardener, Norma Kafer, referred me to you. I needs lots of help >in knowing how to successfully grow indoors the following plants: a Dracaena >J.C. Compacta;two types of ficus 1)Benjamina 2) a huge fiddle shaped leaf >ficus; a Kentsia ( or is it Kentia) palm; and a Bromeliad of some sort that >has different colored fronds and is similar to a ginger plant. I really need >some very specific information about these plants' light needs, water needs, >misting requirements, and fertilizing needs. I have a black thumb so if you >could be as specific as possible I'd appreciate it. Also, I need to know how >to trouble shoot, i.e., what to do when the leaves are brown on the tips (or >what not to do), what to do when the leaves turn yellow and fall off. These >plants are fairly new to my home and are doing both of these things. Is there >a book that would give me really good information? I have the Sunset Garden >Book, but it is not complete enough for me. One final question: is a >moisture tester with a long probe really an accurate indicator of the >moisture present? I get different readings the further down it is placed. >Thanks. >Gail A. Thiele >gailthiele@aol.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:03:27 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 20:03:27 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ta Dah!!!! Searchable Archives Look what Paul Sarando, computer guru for the University of Arizona, has done for us!!! He has created a search engine on the archives page that will search not only our new archives that we created when we moved to the mailman system, but also the old system which was on Majordomo. This means that you can go to the archives, type in what you are interested in and it searches both archives (not just the subject line, the whole message) so it will find all the previous messages on a particular topic!!! Check it out!!! How Cool is That!! Many, Many, Thanks to Paul for making the archives a functional tool for us!!! Lucy Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From mpinckard@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 09:14:35 -0700 From: Michelle Pinckard mpinckard@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden To Whom It May Concern: I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: Green beans Broccoli Carrots Cerely Cauliflower Endive Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas Radishes I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as layout? Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of these? Please respond at your earliest convenience. From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:59:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 10:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:33:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:33:41 -0700 (MST) From: BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have a Great Thursday! Test Message From Azgopher@juno.com Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:59:53 -0700 (MST) From: Azgopher@juno.com Azgopher@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:27:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Help with my garden Michelle Pinckard on Thursday, November 04, 1999 9:14 AM wrote: > ... > I am going to plant my winter garden this week & would like some advice > on layout & brands of seed to use. I would like to plant the following: > > Green beans Broccoli Carrots > Cerely Cauliflower Endive > Leaf Lettuce Green Onions Peas > Radishes > > I have a 12x12 foot garden area. What do you recommend as far as > layout? > Do you recommend certain brands of seed or should I use sets for any of > these? I would us a modified "Square Foot Garden" layout. You could block out 9 3-foot square beds with 18 inches walkways between them. Or 4 5-foot squares or some other convenient combination. See http://members.primary.net/~silvest/garden/spacing.html for recommended sqft plant spacings and other ideas for your garden layout. Note that many sqft gardens are in raised beds for various reasons but it isn't really necessary to make raised beds. Unless you plan to use plastic tunnels forget about planting green beans until mid March. They need warm soil and it is already too cool to grow beans out in the open. And there isn't time to make a crop before frost. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for the vegetable planting schedule for Maricopa county. Most broccoli types produce fairly well. You will usually get only 1 large head but the side shoots are just as tasty and will produce over a long period if you harvest them before the yellow blossoms appear. Look for a type with a short time to maturity. Green Comet and Packman are my personal favorites because of prolific side shoot production but there are many others. I would suggest buying transplants for both broccoli and cauliflower - faster than seed at this late date. When buying transplants, your choices are pretty limited. Self blanching cauliflower is pretty popular but the regular old-fashioned types seem to be hardier. You might want to begin with a short carrot like Short-n-Sweet or Thumbelina if you have tight clay soil. I usually grow a Nantes type because it is more cylindrical with very little taper. Can't recommend any celery types - it hasn't been successful for me. Black Seeded Simpson is a bland flavored, light green lettuce which grows well here and is a pretty good substitute for iceberg lettuce. It is pretty widely available. You can often get 3-4 shearings from it before it starts to become bitter. Many of the other old standbys like oak-leaf and salad bowl are more flavorful. I'd suggest trying a leaf lettuce mix or a Mesclun mix to see what works best for you. For radishes, I would also suggest starting with a mix - something like cherry belle, French breakfast, icicle, champion, etc to see which works best for you. Any of the curly endives should do okay - it's pretty hardy. Green onions can be grown pretty rapidly using the generic sets available now in most garden center. For peas, we usually grow Wando it can get pretty rangy. Little Marvel,a short bush type, is also a good choice. You might also want to try "sugar snap peas". You don't need to shell them - one eats the entire pod. Good Luck! Olin Miller http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 22:48:45 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jerusalem artichoke planting dates/AZ On Thursday, November 04, 1999 6:51 PM, Toni L. Allen wrote: > .... We're getting conflicting info about when to plant them here in central AZ. When?? Can we plant now. If we don't plant now, how do we store them until planting. > ... Plant Jerusalem artichoke tubers in May. They need warm weather. You might try storing in a refrigerator. -Olin Miller From cmuller2000@earthlink.com Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 23:59:23 -0700 (MST) From: cmuller2000@earthlink.com cmuller2000@earthlink.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I irrigate my lawn every 2 weeks (6-8 in). Should I continue this throughout the winter? From PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:45:20 -0700 (MST) From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] ROLLY POLY BUGS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... these roly poly bugs are eating the roots on all my flowers. is there something i can put in the soil to eradicate them. > ... I have heard diatomaceous earth works but have never tried it yself. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700 Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 17:45:29 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] TOMATOE PLANTS On Tuesday, November 02, 1999 12:20 PM R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: >... > each year this time i pull out my tomato plants from summer. they are still green, still have blooms, and still have green tomatoes. why do the tomatoes at this stage never get bigger or ripen? also for fall tomatoes - when should i plant and which variety is the best for slicing? > ... Reccomended planting date for fall tomatoes is from July15 to August 15 according to the schedule at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf. Can't help with the other questions. Sorry. -Olin Miller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 Nov 1999 22:06:07 EST Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 22:06:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf: Winter watering All plants require much less water in the winter ; a rule of thumb is 1/2 the summer requirements. The newspapers on the weather page list the amount of water required to keep turf healthy, which varies throughout the year. Check outt the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf care at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From ecard10331@aol.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:55:14 -0700 (MST) From: ecard10331@aol.com ecard10331@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently had two Chilean Mesquite Trees planted in our yard. During planting the Drip system was damaged and both trees were excessively watered for some time before we realized what had happened and repaired the damage. Now both trees are shedding their leaves. Are these trees dying? Can we salvage them? They have been in one month and the problem was solved after about two weeks. How often should we water these trees and for how long? they are beautiful trees and we would hate to lose them. Thanks in advance for your advice. Ed Cardinal From kallaz@gte.net Sat, 06 Nov 1999 11:42:06 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 11:42:06 -0700 From: kevin@linda ahern kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] I cannot get connected to your question line. What are the huge white slimy caterpillars that are now in my unsuccessful vegetable garden soil? Did they come from my compost pile? From kallaz@gte.net Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 12:07:00 -0700 (MST) From: kallaz@gte.net kallaz@gte.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx From uitti@primenet.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:15:48 -0700 (MST) From: uitti@primenet.com uitti@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti From scottwlee@hotmail.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 14:34:33 -0700 (MST) From: scottwlee@hotmail.com scottwlee@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! From deniseorjohn@home.com Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 21:06:49 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys acaulis (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:29:27 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:29:27 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf recommendation for Thatcher, Az. Scott, I would recommend that you check with your county extension office. If I knew your elevation and climate zone I would be in a better position to help. Your county agent should be able to help you. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 18:14:06 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 18:14:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Over watered Mesquite trees Ed It is typical of trees that are under stress to drop their leaves and being overwatered for two weeks might be enough to cause stress. Hopefully yours will not be lost. My guess is that your trees should be ok. I doubt that your trees have established much root growth yet and especially with the over watering. When the tree was planted did anyone check to make sure that you had good drainage from the planting hole? The planting hole filled with water should drain overnight. If it doesn't it is not a fit place to plant a tree. A small hole dug down to the depth of the root ball at the edge of the root ball should tell you the current moisture situation. An experienced person can determine the same thing by inserting a steel probe; the probe will go easily to the depth that the water has penetrated. This is also a great way to determine if the irrigation water has penetrated to the proper depth. If the tree has not been watered in two weeks it should need water now unless your soil is not draining well. Deep watering every two to three weeks during the winter should be adequate. The root ball on a newly planted tree dries out much faster than the surrounding soil and should be monitored until the roots have penetrated into the surrounding soil. I would be glad to hear from you as to how your trees do. Good luck. Rod Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From seklug@earthlink.net Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:40:18 -0700 (MST) From: seklug@earthlink.net seklug@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and knowledgeable tree trimmer. Would it be best to find someone who is a certified arborist. Other than taking my chances with the yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make a recommendation? From Codiedale@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:21:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:21:01 -0700 (MST) From: Codiedale@aol.com Codiedale@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:20 EST Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:20 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Certified Arborist Listing The following website will have a list of Certified Arborists in your area: http://www.ag.uiuc.edu/~isa/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod From tacman7@aol.com Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:54:36 -0700 (MST) From: tacman7@aol.com tacman7@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. From plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 08:51:48 -0700 From: Barry L. Bequette plantdoc@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Horticulture Conference] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit -- Barry L. Bequette, Ph.D. University of Arizona County Extension Director, Yuma County 2200 West 28th Street, Suite 102 Yuma, AZ 85364-6928 Phone: (520) 726-3904 Fax: (520) 726-8472 Mobile: (520) 210-1663 email: plantdoc@ag.arizona.edu --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from smtp04.primenet.com (smtp04.primenet.com [206.165.6.134]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id IAA05038 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:36:20 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp04.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id IAA14561 for ; Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:35:40 -0700 (MST) Received: from ip-19-208.yum.primenet.com(207.218.19.208), claiming to be "blakelyr" via SMTP by smtp04.primenet.com, id smtpdAAAloaOmC; Mon Nov 8 08:35:23 1999 Message-ID: <000c01bf29fd$c53039c0$0c00060a@blakelyr> From: "Roger Blakeley" To: Subject: Horticulture Conference Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 08:27:10 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Yuma's Home and Garden Horticulture Conference Agenda: 7:30 a.m. - 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments 8:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry Mikel U of = A Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona. 9:30 a.m. - 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike Matheron = U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 10:30 a.m. - 10:45 a.m. Break 10:45 a.m. - 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A Cooperative = Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 11:45 a.m. - 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle 12:30 p.m. - 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. David = Kerns U of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona. 1:30 p.m. - 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona. 2:30 p.m. - 2:35 p.m. Break 2:35 p.m. - 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City of Yuma = Parks & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona. Date: February 12, 2000 Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. 28th Street. Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up $10.00 at the door. R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension Office 2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona 726-3904 Raffle On Garden Items 8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered! ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yuma’s Home and Garden Horticulture Conference

Agenda:

7:30 a.m. – 8:30 a.m. Registration and opening Comments

8:30 a.m. – 9:30 a.m. Pruning for the Life of the Tree. Terry = Mikel U of A=20 Cooperative Extension, Phoenix, Arizona.

9:30 a.m. – 10:30 a.m. Disease in your lawn and landscape. Mike = Matheron U of=20 A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

10:30 a.m. – 10:45 a.m. Break

10:45 a.m. – 11:45 a.m. Home Citrus Care. Glen Wright U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

11:45 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Lunch and Raffle

12:30 p.m. – 1:30 p.m. The Good and Bad Insects in your Yard. = David Kerns U=20 of A Cooperative Extension, Yuma, Arizona.

1:30 p.m. – 2:30 p.m. Desert Landscaping. Barry Bequette U of A = Cooperative=20 Extension, Director, Yuma, Arizona.

2:30 p.m. – 2:35 p.m. Break

2:35 p.m. – 3:35 p.m. Trees in the Nursery. Roger Blakeley City = of Yuma Parks=20 & Recreation Department, Yuma, Arizona.

Date: February 12, 2000

Time: 8:00 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Place: Cooperative Extension Auditorium 2200 W. = 28th=20 Street.

Cost: $5.00 Pre- sign-up

$10.00 at the door.

R.S.V.P. At the Yuma County Cooperative Extension = Office

2200 W. 28th Street Yuma, Arizona

726-3904

Raffle On Garden Items

8 Advanced Master Gardner Credit Hours Offered!

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01BF29C3.0D31EB00-- --------------B8EB8302FE3E4EBE7DD9329C-- From solson@asu.edu Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:45:19 -0700 (MST) From: solson@asu.edu solson@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? From yiayia1@prodigy.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) From: yiayia1@prodigy.net yiayia1@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with no other information available. We have not been able to find out what this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? From mike.todd@asu.edu Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700 Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 12:23:04 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sapphire Dragon Tree Here are the URLs for a couple of websites that could be of some use: http://www.paulownia.org/bibliography.html http://www.sapphire-dragon.com/ Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 9 >Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:41:59 -0700 (MST) >From: yiayia1@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We were recently given a plant simply labeled Sapphire Dragon Tree, with >no other information available. We have not been able to find out what >this plant is, nor how to care for it. Can someone help? Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Hi, In areas with caliche, the addition of soil sulfur and organic matter to the backfill will help to break down the caliche and release nutrients to the plants. Although it is often recommended gypsum should not be used because it is ineffective in caliche or calcified soils. Plants properly suited to the local soils will perform well with native soil as the backfill. I have several friends that planted their bougainvillea into the native clay soil we have in our neighborhood, with no amendments. I have mine in a pot filled with potting soil. All seem to be doing fine so they must have a wide range of tolerance. I find no specific information as to plant depth but the usual is to guide by the potted plant itself. It should not be planted deeper then it is in the pot. In a message dated 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time, PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/5/99 2:45:43 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: PLANTLADYAZ@webtv.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener How deep do I dig a hole for a bougainvillea? Do I ammend soil if it is all caleche? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:37:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado Tree Hi, Probably your best bet for an answer to your avocado question is to contact Dick Gross. rkg144@worlnet.att.net He is the secretary of the Arizona Rare Fruit Growers. This group has the best information for growing semi tropical plants in the valley. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunter, Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time, aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 11:03:06 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener What temperatures are avocado trees hardy to? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From reesaviary@cs.com Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:43:35 -0700 (MST) From: reesaviary@cs.com reesaviary@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when do you pick the olives to be canned and how to can green and black olives? From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:42:40 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:44:04 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are debating whether our queen palms and trees are better nurtured by our care or that of a tree service. Please help me understand: 1) whether queen palms need deep root ferilization or can obtain the required nutrients via a pellet-type palm tree fertilizer sprinkled beneath the tree and watered into the soil (in other words, do-it-yourself). Ours need some special care right now, with some fronds growing in stunted. What is the lifespan of a queen palm? We are trying to determine how much to invest in the upkeep of these palms. 2/ is deep root fertilization necessary for healthy citrus, ash and mesquite trees? we have been fertilizing them ourselves, and a tree service said that once-a-year deep root fertilization and slow-release fertilizer spikes would ensure a nutritionally healthy tree. What do you think? We want to nourish our trees, but a service can become quite expensive, compared to doing it ourselves. 3/ Is there much difference between Bordeaux and Aliette fungicides? 4/ We have a Chinese Evergreen Elm that we planted last spring. Since then we have discovered that they are susceptible to root rot. Our neighborhood has lost several trees to root rot in past years. What can we do to protect our tree? Thanks for your help! From maxcel@swlink.net Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small compost pile in my backyard that I started earlier this year. It has a large number of ants in it, but it also has worms that we can't identify. When I saw them a couple of weeks ago, they looked like they were about an inch long and very pale. I thought they might be some type of grub. Any idea what these might be and if they are OK for my compost? From Phgeditors@aol.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:07:47 EST Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:07:47 EST From: Phgeditors@aol.com Phgeditors@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. From DorrineM@AOL.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:37:13 -0700 (MST) From: DorrineM@AOL.com DorrineM@AOL.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? From dmaceachern@energes.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:55:47 -0700 (MST) From: dmaceachern@energes.com dmaceachern@energes.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) I have a question on how to trim/prune two trees I have in my front yard. They were new and planted in May. I believe they are members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled in width & height. I want to trim them back in width so they are not interfering with the sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. Is there a web site page you could direct me to that either explains or illustrates the proper method. I am new to the area and want to ensure I do not damage the plant. Thank You. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:24:29 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Pruning Trees You can visit the following page from the Master Gardener manual for great information on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer dmaceachern@energes.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Very nice Web Site (we do web sites for a living) > > I have a question on how to trim/prune > two trees I have in my front yard. They were > new and planted in May. I believe they are > members of the Mesquite family. They have doubled > in width & height. I want to trim them back in > width so they are not interfering with the > sidewalk and driveway and contiue to grow tall. > > Is there a web site page you could direct me to > that either explains or illustrates the > proper method. I am new to the area and want > to ensure I do not damage the plant. > > Thank You. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:50:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:50:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question Rabbits in the Garden Dorrine: I have a few ideas that MIGHT help you. In a book I have called, "A Miscellany of Garden Wisdom" (its a collection of homespun, old time knowledge) it is mentioned that a liberal planting of Foxglove will keep rabbits away. If you like foxglove, it might be worth a try. It also mentioned onions. I use a product called Repel which I purchase at nurseries. I use it to keep cats from using my flower bed as a litter box. It works well for that. The container lists Rabbits as well. Always follow the instructions on the container. Chicken wire fencing is one of the most effective ways to keep rabbits out. You can also visit the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html This is a new section of the on-line Master Gardener manual, which may give you some suggestions. Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer DorrineM@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? > We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:06:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm and other tree care Queen Palms are not native to nor are they well adapted to our low desert, and because of this they are not long lived. It is not a tree that one can plant and forget. It must be watered and fertilized properly. Granular fertilizer uniformly spread on the ground at the drip line of the tree, whether palm or other tree, and watered in well will provide a more uniform fertilization than other methods. Fertilization by injection could be a viable way to correct a nutrient dificiency or for a special situation. Fertilizer spikes will provide the tree with a uniform nutrient release which you won't have with the surface application. A combination of the spikes with the surface application will work well provided the reccommended rate is not exceeded. Bordeaux is a copper based fungicide quite commonly used on many applications in the garden and landscape. One of its applications is to treat bud rot on palms. Alliette, a more costly fungicide, appears to be targeted toward a specific fungi. Sorry but I don't have available a chemical make up of Alliette. If it is important to you I could research it. The Evergreen Elm is quite susceptable to Texas Root Rot. One way to minimise the chances of Texas Root Rot is not to over water. Periodic applications of soil sulfur will help to lower the soil pH which is also helpful. But most of all INCREASE the irrigation interval in fall, and more in winter. Each time you water, DEEP WATER. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:40:38 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello Scott in Thatcher If I am reading my map correctly, you are at about 3,000 foot elevation which gives you more options for turfgrass than us low desert gardeners. You may want to double check with your local county extension agent for their local recommendations for turfgrass in your area. You should be able to grow a Turf Tall Fescue lawn which would be "softer" than bermuda, and will also remain green year round. You should plant this grass seed in the early-mid Fall or in early spring. A Fall planting will be better to allow the fescue plants to establish a strong root system before next summer's heat returns. Deep, infrequent watering will make the grass healthier. This grass species does require more water than bermuda, but once your stand is a couple of years old, it will have a deep root system. Mowing height is recommended at 2-3 inches, and this grass species is fairly tolerant of shade if you have older trees. Plant 6-8 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet of turf area (DO NOT plant more than this rate - too many seedlings crowding each other will promote disease). Your local garden centers and nurseries should have detailed information for you on planting and care of this turfgrass species. There are many different varieties and brand names available, just make sure that the seed package label says the words "Turf Tall Fescue" somewhere on it. Good Luck Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Research Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ******************************************* -----Original Message----- From: scottwlee@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 2:34 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I am from thatcher, az in the south east corner in the gila vally. I am interested in planting a lawn. I would like to know about the grasses I could use. I would prefer to use one that is softer than Bermuda grass. I admitt that I know very little about grasses, so please keep your information not too technical. Thanks a lot! > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:19:21 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Just a brief note from my personal experience. 1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate better & faster. 2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. 3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they eat them. 4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in the spring from the trunk and main branches mike hills - maricopa county master gardener **************************************. -----Original Message----- From: Codiedale@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other information you my have would be great too. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:33:11 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit repellent plants Dorrine - you might try planting some YARROW plants. This is a herb that looks a lot like a fern, and comes in many different bloom colors - grows very well here in the Valley. Readily available at local nurseries and garden centers this time of year. The flowers can be dried and used in crafts and flower arrangements. According to many members of the Arizona Herb Association who grow this plant, the pungent smell of the leaves is not pleasing to rabbits so they usually avoid eating these. Some members recommend planting these yarrow plants along the front or outer edge of the flower beds so the rabbits hit them first and are hopefully turned aside. I am surprised that they ate your lantana. Next spring you may want to try planting larger size lantana plants so that they have a better start and can then keep up enough growth to get ahead of the animal munching. I have also had people recommend several different items below to use as rabbit repellents, HOWEVER, please be aware that in very dry years with little in the desert to eat, the rabbits and other desert dwellers will come into your yard anyway once they get hungry enough. Blood Meal or Bone Meal sprinkled around the garden beds - available at nurseries. Human, Cat or Dog hair tied up in little muslin or cheesecloth bags and hung in your shrubs and bushes - the odor of "predator" is supposed to keep rabbits away. Cat litterbox cleanout (cat dung) scattered around the edge of your property is sometimes effective in repelling the rabbits into other people's yards (again due to the potential cat predator threat) Moth Balls - available at drugstores - scattered around in the foliage or along the edge of your property where you think the animals are netering. Not on any human edible plants and please be aware that the smell that helps keep the rabbits away is also not pleasant for people. Commercial spray and powder products to repell pests can be purchased at your garden center, hardware store or nursery and do sometimes work (example: "Ropell"). You may also want to contact the Desert Botanical Garden and The Arizona Game & Fish office - both have helpful publications on this topic. Mike Hills - Master Gardener Volunteer, Maricopa County ****************************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: DorrineM@AOL.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:38 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Are there any bedding plants that rabbits will NOT eat? Something (probably rabbits) seem to eat everything I plant. It is a small area in front of house - have tried Lantana and roses. Would like to put in pansy or petunias - is this possible without fencing? >We live in Sun City West - and also wonder what to put out to eliminate rodents - seem to have them also? Any rabbit repelents? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:04:33 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: Fw: [Arid_gardener] Castor Beans >arid_gardener >Just a brief note from my personal experience. > >1) It helps to soak the seed for a few hours or overnite in warm water - >fairly hard seed coat so this helps the seed to imbibe water and germinate >better & faster. > >2) This plant is tolerant of a wide range of soil types and pH, but it does >need a fairly large volume of water - not a drought tolerant plant. > >3) You are also aware I hope that the seeds are poisonous so this is a >plant not usually recommended for planting in yards with kids, in case they >eat them. > >4) Frost sensitive, but a well established plant will generally regrow in >the spring from the trunk and main branches > > >mike hills - maricopa county master gardener >**************************************. >-----Original Message----- >From: Codiedale@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 7:22 PM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>I have been researching the Castor Bean for some time now and have been >attempting to put together a information sheet (fact sheet) >>on how to grow the plant from seed. Im looking for information on the >conditioning of the soil fertilizers ect....im looking for gereral >information for anyone to use...not just for arizona conditions. Any other >information you my have would be great too. >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From dybegay@amug.org Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:41:43 -0700 (MST) From: dybegay@amug.org dybegay@amug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and where I can find frost dates. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:10:05 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market. This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself. (NO brokers please) If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start. Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The South Mountain Farmers Market, located at 6414 S. 26th Street at Waldron Farms, is looking for vendors to compliment its growing Farmers Market.  This is a TRUE Farmers Market; you must grow the produce, herbs, flowers, honey, etc. yourself.  (NO brokers please)

If you would like to get into the growing business or just want an outlet for your occasional bumper crops, this is a great place to start.  Stop by and see our market for yourself, every Saturday from 9 to 1, or give Frank Martin a call at 602-604-2413 (voice mail) for more information.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_29171197==_.ALT-- From ed-gayle@home.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: ed-gayle@home.com ed-gayle@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:05:26 EST Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:05:26 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an ornamental pomegranate tree and it never gets any fruit on it. It is grown for the blooms. Val From maxcel@swlink.net Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:27:15 -0700 (MST) From: maxcel@swlink.net maxcel@swlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a hibiscus in my backyard that I planted last fall. Towards the end of this summer it finally started growing! It has put on about 1 1/2 - 2 feet of growth. Now I am wondering when and how much I should cut it back so that it won't get leggy. Also, it hasn't flowered in a long time. When can I expect to see some flowers? Thanks, Celestine From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:44:01 EST Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:44:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus: with vegetative growth and no blooms Celestine, You can prune back your hibiscus about 1/3 next spring after the danger of frost is past. Too much nitrogen fertilizer would cause a lot of vegetative growth and few blossoms. I would suggest that you use a balanced fertilizer. Good luck. Rod From gretchen@hpiug.org Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:40:04 -0700 (MST) From: gretchen@hpiug.org gretchen@hpiug.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there an inexpensive but reliable way to water is of my houseplants while away on an extended vacation (2 months) ? I have found some wick devices that last two weeks. From valpogrl@aol.com Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:18:40 -0700 (MST) From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I am having problems with my roses generally this fall, the worst is a "Paradise" rose, about 10 years old. Alot of the leaves have turned yellow and then fallen, I haven't seen any black spot however. BUT, the stems are turning purple, though they don't seem swollen, just purple. Black spot? Vitamin defiency? Any ideas? Thanks, Cindy From mikesmower@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 06:33:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 06:33:33 -0700 (MST) From: mikesmower@aol.com mikesmower@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be appreciated. thanx tim From saturn1066@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:08:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:08:24 -0700 (MST) From: saturn1066@aol.com saturn1066@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The leafs and branches of my oleander are beginning to try drwon and yellow and dry. Many of the branches are now nothing but dry, brittle dead wood. It doesn't appear to be the oleander gall described in the index. Although perhaps it is. Would welcome your recommendation..Please advise.. From asinger@prodigy.net Sat, 13 Nov 1999 13:25:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 13:25:02 -0700 (MST) From: asinger@prodigy.net asinger@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:45:23 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 12:45:23 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] First and Last Frost Dates for the Valley of the Sun Check out our web page on Frost in the Valley for information on First and Last Frost in the Valley and Frost and Growing Season Data For other weather related information see Lucy At 03:41 PM 11/10/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I live in the NE area. I have a small garden and I like to know how and >where I can find frost dates. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:04:00 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:04:00 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Hi, Slugs need moisture so I'd say under your plastic pots is an excellent daytime hiding place for them. I believe they come out at night to feed on your very delicious plants. I'd start some of the procedures for eliminating them if they are doing damage. Sunset's Western Garden Problem Solver has a list of things to do. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time, Phgeditors@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/9/99 11:08:40 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: Phgeditors@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:03:50 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:03:50 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Succulents Hi Fran, There is a CD called Desert Landscaping that has information on all the plants you listed with pictures. I got my copy from the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 East Broadway Tempe, AZ for a cost of $25.00 I have an address in my notebook that says photo's you might check. It is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm I've not tried this address myself as yet. Hope this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time, asinger@prodigy.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/13/99 1:25:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: asinger@prodigy.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: Century Plant Huachuca Agave Shindagger Agave palmeri Sotol Yucca elata Yucca baccata Ocotillo Boojum Aloes Octopus Agave Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. Thanks Fran >> From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:58:26 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:58:26 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Slugs Snails and Slugs tend to hibernate in cool weather, but we haven't had any yet so they are still out and about and active. You may be seeing more of them because we have had such a dry fall they are coming up to your potted plants that are watered. They tend to go to sheltered places during the day so they may be living under the pots during the day. Natural populations tend to cycle, this seem to be a banner year for slugs. For more information on Snails and Slugs see Lucy At 01:07 PM 11/09/1999 -0500, you wrote: >arid_gardener >Why am I finding so many slugs underneath my plastic nursery pots (the ones >with plants in them)? And at night they are all over our cement stepping >stones. I live in central Phoenix and have never had this problem before. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:51:22 EST Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 19:51:22 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olives Hi, We have a number of answers to questions on Olives in the Arid_Gardener archives. I've copied/pasted one of these letters. One way to reach the archives is the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html There is now a better way to cruise the hundred's of letters but I can't find that info at the moment. I scrolled to the O's and found several under the heading of Olives. Hopefully others will give you more information. Re: Olives Art Tarsha (stack@goodnet.com) Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:41:55 -0700 Hi All, Since I got a few requests for this recipe, I decided to just post it to the list. Brined Greek-Style Olives Always use mature, full colored, yet still firm fruit. (dark reddish/purple). Harvest before frost and throw out any bruised or soft olives. They will fade in color and soften up during curing. Wash and stem the olives. 1. Place cleaned and sorted olives in 1 quart or larger glass jars. 2. Cover with a brine containing 8 oz. of salt per gallon of water. Use a little saucer and weight or other rigging to keep the olives submerged in the liquid. Fasten the lid on loosely. 3. After one week, replace the original brine with a stronger brine of 1 lb of salt per gallon of water, again leaving covers loose. 4. After 2 more weeks, replace the brine with a new brine of the same solution, 1 lb salt per gallon of water and seat the covers firmly. If pressure forms, carefully loosen the cover to release the gas, then close again firmly. 5. If during this time, a mold or scum forms on the top of the liquid, skim it off and replace the brine. Keeping the olives submerged in the brine should keep this from happening. 6. After 6 weeks to 2 months of total curing time, you can taste your olives to see if enough bitterness has been leached out to make them edible. Since tastes are different, you may cure them for a bit less or a bit more time to get the result you like. These will be VERY salty straight from the brine. You can soak a few test olives in clear water in the refrigerator for a day before tasting if you prefer. Remember that any olives you desalt by soaking in clear water must be refrigerated. The salt is what is preserving them. 7. When they've been cured to your taste, drain brine and rinse olives. Put them back in clean quart glass jars, packing in 3 or 4 slices of lemon with them, a minced clove of garlic and a teaspoon of oregano. Only fill the jars about 2/3rds full of olives. Pour in each quart jar 2/3 cup of white vinegar and a teaspoon of salt. Fill with water to within an inch of the top, then pour in olive oil until the liquid comes to within a half inch of the top of the jar. Seal firmly, agitate to mix contents and store in a dark place at room temperature. 8. These will keep for a year, but are most delicious from about a week after being put in marinade to about 3 to 4 months later. After that, they begin to taste more and more acidic and strong. My arabic father in law loves them the longer they sit, but I prefer them in the early stages. :-) From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:07:11 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:07:11 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Searching the Archives To search the arid_gardener archives go to There is a search engine there that will allow you to search within the message as well as for particular authors, dates, etc. Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:09:55 -0700 Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:09:55 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to find a certified arborist Check out the site below that lets you search by zip code, city or state for certified arborists in your area. At 04:40 PM 11/07/1999 -0700, you wrote: >arid_gardener >I am looking for a good, honest, reputable and >knowledgeable tree trimmer. >Would it be best to find someone who is a certified >arborist. Other than taking my chances with the >yellow pages, do you have a list or can you make >a recommendation? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:14:16 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:14:16 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] pomegranate Hi, The information I found in Sunset's Western Garden mentions a number of varieties from dwarf, to shrub or tree. Most seem to have no fruit, or small dry red fruit. One tree variety is mentioned as the most common (called "Wonderful") fruiting variety. It has red fruit in the autumn. It mentions that regular deep watering is important for fruit development. It would also need to be in a sunny location. It did not mention feeding fertilizer. It did say pomegranates are very tolerant of our alkaline soils. Information from a book called "Shade and Color with Water-Conserving Plants" by James Walters and Balbir Backhaus. Dwarfs are very ornamental in containers but do not produce edible fruit. They all like heat and good drainage. Non fruiting varieties need little water. It mentions "Wonderful" as being the best fruiting. It says to water deeply, twice monthly from spring thru fall. Minimal fertilizer. Doesn't require a pollinator, minimal chilling requirements. There are other fruiting varieties but they are not commonly found. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time, ed-gayle@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/11/99 6:38:41 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: ed-gayle@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener A friend has a pomegranate tree that doesn't have decent fruit (it doesn't ripen). She said she was told it may be an ornamental. I read somewhere that there is a trick (special feeding or watering) to making pomegranates ripen. What do you think? Is it an ornamental or does it need feeding? I think the article I saw was in the newspaper. I've search the 'net for info and haven't found anything. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:35:42 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:35:42 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification Hi, I can't tell if anyone answered your question or not. Insects can be difficult to identify. Sometimes if you give a very detailed description we can find possibilities in our books. Really your best bet is to bottle up a few specimens and take them into the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Tempe, AZ. They have a very good pannel that looks at specific problems and speciments Friday mornings. I have heard of a white grub that sometimes is found in compost piles, especially ones that don't generate enough heat while they are working. I've never heard anyone even attempt to identify the critter though. On the problems with your garden I know most of my problems stem from poor watering practices. I tend to over water or kill things with shallow watering so that they are killed by accumulative salts. You might check out this address for help with watering. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.htm The master gardener manual is a wealth of information and can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html For Veggies try: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#vegetable Hope some of this helps. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, kallaz@gte.net writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: kallaz@gte.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting seeds? What do I do? Many thx >> From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:33:05 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:33:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Cindy, As my roses age they reach a peak and then start to decline after 7 or 8 years. The humus that we mix in to the planting hole when we plant a rose is eventually used up by the growing rose. Our plants thrive because of the bacteria that the humus is host to in the soil and when it is gone our plants do not grow as well. We can help the situation by applying any one of the many organic mulches annually. Yellow leaves can be caused by over or under watering, nitrogen deficiency, magnesium deficiency, spider mites as well as other things. Roses struggle to stay alive during our hot summers in the low desert and this one has been much longer than usual. Yesterdays temperature was 16 degrees above normal. I've lost several roses during the last month and I blame it on the much higher than normal temperatures. Black spot is very seldom seen here in the low desert. On Saturday, November 20, Mesa East Valley Rose Society will host a rose show and festival at Mesa Community College, and open to the public from 1:00 to 4:00 PM. Come and enjoy the largest public rose garden in Arizona ( 2500 roses) and bring a sample of foliage from your Paradise rose. One of the several Consulting Rosarians who will be there should be able to help you with a more definitive diagnosis. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From tate@dzn.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:31:15 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 12:31:15 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip irrigation To all my gardening friends. I use plastic T-tape to irrigate my garden site at a community garden location in El Paso Texas. The dripper are 8 inches apart and my lines are 14 to 18 inches apart. I control the amount of water used with an automatic metering valve. This allow me to set the number of gallons of water to apply and the valve cuts off when finished. What I would like to know is someone's recommendation for the maximum depth to place these lines below the surface for a mixed vegetable garden. Presently I have carrots, broccoli, and pole bean growing beautifully with the lines six inches deep. Dale and Selma Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 915.751.3879 From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:47:25 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 13:47:25 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Vegetables, particularly tomatoes Mike, Below are some resources that may be of interest to you. You may also want to check out the Maricopa County Home Horticulture Website Vegetable Planting Guide for Maricopa County Back the dates up a week or two for Wickenburg Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Vegetable Chapter, Section on Tomatoes Arizona Master Gardener Manual, Trouble Shooting problems with Tomatoes Desert Gardening For Beginners Good Luck! Lucy Bradley At 06:04 PM 11/13/1999 -0800, you wrote: > My name is Mike Hosler and I am a veteran Master Gardener in Oregon, >Clackamas County Chapter, and got your email address from our program >coordinator. > I am interested in getting info and/or data on raising vegetables, >particularly tomatoes, in the Phoenix and north in the Wickenburg area(s). >I'm sure that the climate presents some unique challenges, and equally sure >that some avid gardeners have mastered them. >Looking for recommendations of people, publications, or any other sources >to which you might direct me. >Thanks >Mike Hosler Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:15:35 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Grub Identification The grubs could well have been living in your compost. The larger ones may mature into a magnificent metallic green beetle. Unless you have more than 12 per square foot there is no need to treat them. If you want you can pull them out and set them on the sidewalk or some other surface for the birds to eat them. Arizona Master Gardener Entomology Manual, section on white grubs >In a message dated 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time, >kallaz@gte.net writes: > ><< Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: 11/6/99 12:07:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: kallaz@gte.net > Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > arid_gardener > I have raised beds in my garden. We have tried for 4 seasons to get a >successful vegetable garden growing. This year I added a year's worth of >home compost to my bed and added other amendments rec in the Master Gardening >workshops. Nothing sprouted in my first planting! I replanted and >unfortunately and accidentally left the watering system on. When I returned >home all the beds were flooded and floating and lying in muck were MANY >large, white, slimy caterpillars...some as big as 3 inches. What are >these??? Did they come from my compost pile???? Did they eat my rooting >seeds? What do I do? Many thx > > > >> > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:09 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:09 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering new sod lawn Hi, Chapter 12 of the Master Gardener Manual gives good information on lawn care in the valley. You might try the following address for help: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.htm.html#index You can also get to the master gardener manual via the Arid_gardener web page by selecting publications. What I found in chapter 12 about newly planted sod is as follows. Water sod 3 to 4 times daily for short intervals for 10 to 14 days. Avoid soaking sod continuously at night. After sod begins to "knit" (and resists being pulled up) begin to water once a day, for a longer period of time. Then, decrease irrigation to every 2 to 3 days. The chapter goes into how to recognize when you lawn needs water, the screw driver test to see if your water is perking the 8 to 10 inches recommended for established lawns. Lots of info you might find useful. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time, tacman7@aol.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/7/99 10:54:54 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: tacman7@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I just bought a new home and had sod layed in the back yard about two weeks ago. The sod is seeded with winter rye. I have a sprinkler system. I would like to know how often and for how long the grass should be watered? i.e. three times a week for 20 minutes. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:10 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:10 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo Pine death Hi, I doubt very much that electrical wires running thru the tree had anything to do with the tree's death. The Aleppo pine tree (pinus halepensis) is subject to Texas Root Rot. The symptoms of the disease is rapid death during the hot season. Leaves remain on the tree but are dry and will crumble in your hand. I just lost an eucalyptus tree to the same disease. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time, solson@asu.edu writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/8/99 9:47:32 AM US Mountain Standard Time From: solson@asu.edu Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a large Allepo Pine in my backyard approximately 20 years old. It has suddenly died. The tree is extremely dry, but the trimmer says it is solid. He thinks it died because of the APS wires that run through the branches. What do you think? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:05 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:05 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euphorbia Amak Variegata Hi, There seems to be many varieties of Euphorbia. I haven't found anything on your particular variety. They all seem to be drought tolerant though so I'd expect the problem will be more related to too much water. Anyway I'm reposting your question in case someone one line will recognize the plant and give you more information. You might just have to keep a careful eye on the plant and go by whether it is showing signs of needing water (wilting). JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Azgopher@juno.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/4/99 6:00:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Azgopher@juno.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This morning I planted a cactus succulent ---Euphorbia Amak Variegata . At what rate do I water it until it is established ? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:07 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:07 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planter made of plastic pipe Hi Paul, We have several things to consider with your planter. 1. Will it be hung in the shade or full sun? 2. How deep is the planter? The less soil the faster it will dry out in our climate. 3. The color black absorbs heat readily. Keeping the plant roots at a temperature they can tolerate may be a problem. Do you live in the lower valley? 4. Are we talking about annual or perennial plants for your planter? There are a number of books out on container gardening. The one I have is from Sunset. I found it at a local nursery. I know book stores have a number of container gardening books that are more extensive. You might want to just scan thru some of these books for ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time, uitti@primenet.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 2:16:09 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: uitti@primenet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I built a hanging planter out of 4 in. black PVC about 4 feet in length. I drilled 1 1/4 in holes (staggared) thru-out it's length. The bottom was capped with a standard 4 in end cap (1/8 inch holes drilled for drainage). In the center of the 4 in. PVC I installed a 1 in. PVC with 1/8 in. holes scattered thru-out for watering. Now the problem: What should I plant in this planter that will withstand our weather? I would like a lot of color and something that covers the PVC in time. What is the best time to plant, and how long can I expect it to bloom? I would appreciate any suggestions you may have. Thanks again. Paul Uitti >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:08 EST Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:36:08 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hymenoxys caulis (wild flower) Hi, I'm reposting your question under the name of the wild flower you mentioned. Evidently the one you have in your yard looks like the one you found in the article your referred to. A good description of the plant is always helpful to those of us trying to answer questions. I have one address that might be helpful http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html We do have people in the master gardener program with experience with wild flowers. Hopefully one will see the name of the angelica daisy you mention and give you more information. There are books at nurseries and book stores on wild flowers. You might try scanning thru some of these books. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time, deniseorjohn@home.com writes: << Subj: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 11/6/99 9:07:07 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: deniseorjohn@home.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu I read an article on desert flowers and wanted to know if the Hymenoxys caulks (Angelica Daisy) is the beautiful wild daisy bushes that pop up in my yard ever summer. Do you know what daisies I'm referring too? I'd love to plant more and also would love to know how to keep them from dying out each year. Thanks >> From sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:38:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 15:38:04 -0700 (MST) From: sandstrom.family@prodigy.net sandstrom.family@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. thank you From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:18:02 -0700 Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 16:18:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Grapefruit - When to Pick Hi - Funny you should ask the question about when to pick grapefruit. I just asked myself that this afternoon while looking at the fruit and wondering -----. My Ortho "All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits" says "The only sure way to determine maturity is to taste the fruit. Fruit color is a poor indication of ripeness because many fruits have fully colored rinds months before they can be eaten." On the books, there are sections in most desert gardening books and a section in the Sunset Western Garden Book. The Maricopa County Library at 32nd Street has a good selection. Hope this helps. Ursula ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, November 14, 1999 3:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I purchased a home with a large grapefruit tree in the backyard. Where can I find information about the care of such a tree. I do not know when the fruit is supposed to be ripe, whether to leave it on or pick it all off once it is ripe or anything else about care and upkeep for that matter. Please point me in the right direction. > > thank you > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jess@cvweb.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:04:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: jess@cvweb.com jess@cvweb.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: Question #1: Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. Question #2: If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? Question #3: Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? Thanks for your feedback! Jess T. From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:19:04 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 08:19:04 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following succulents: > > Century Plant > Huachuca Agave > Shindagger > Agave palmeri > Sotol > Yucca elata > Yucca baccata > Ocotillo > Boojum > Aloes > Octopus Agave > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > Thanks > Fran > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gaye.clark@asu.edu Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:40:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:40:27 -0700 (MST) From: gaye.clark@asu.edu gaye.clark@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:31:17 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:31:17 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shaded Lawn Problems >Bermudagrass lawns are the main turf in The Valley and none of the available >Bermuda varieties (seeded nor sodded) are at all tolerant of shade. The >problem has nothing to do with any fungus from the Mesquite trees, as >bermudas are extremely disease tolerant. It is merely caused by the shade >from your clients' maturing trees and is a fairly common problem as >people's landscapes mature. > >The best and usually easiest solution is to trim the trees up - not just >thinning the canopy as you have done before, but actully moving the crown >upwards by removing some of the large lower limbs. You will have to >decide if this is possible based on the individual trees and their current >branch structure - this will allow more sun to shine in under the sides of >the tree during the days. If you do this, then you also need to mow the >turf under the trees at a taller mowing height - 2 to 3 inches tall - to >permit the grass to have more leaf surface to trap and colllect the limited >sunlight. > >Option #2 would be to plant some "Turf Tall Fescue" seed this fall and >winter. This is a cool climate turfgrass species that is very shade >tolerant - available from seed at most local garden centers and nurseries >under many different brand names and labels. This grass species will >remain green year round in our climate, but stresses severely during the hot >summers and needs far more water than bermuda does. However, under trees, >the temperature is generally about 20 degrees coller, so the Tall Fescue >will usually do well and survive the summers in shaded conditions. The >seed needs to be planted NOW in order to get the grass plants root system's >developed well enough before next summer's heat stress returns. PLANT 6 to >8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet in a well prepared seed bed according >to the label instructions and instructions sheets from your grass seed >supplier. DO NOT plant extra seed!!!! More is definitely NOT better, as >the seedlings will be too crowded to develop a good root system and will >succumb to heat and disease next summer. > >Option #3 is to plant St. Augustine or Zoysia grass - Both are warm >climate gras speices with good shade tolerance. St. Augustine from sod >planted next summer - Zoysia from seed or sod planted next summer. Both >of these go dormant in winter like the bermudas and can be overseeded with >ryegrass for winter green turf - although they are not as tolerant of >overseeding practices as the bermudas are. > >There is a good article with more detailed information on this in one of the >1999 issues of the 'Horticultural Communicator' which you can access at our >website where you posted this querstion. Find the Communicator pages >and you should be able to query for the artcile on shaded turfgrass >problems. If you have any problems tracking this down, please advise and >we can help. > >Good Luck! > >Mike Hills - Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County > >Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales >Seed Research of Oregon >5314 West Luke Avenue >Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA >tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 >email mhills_sro@msn.com >WEB www.sroseed.com > > > >******************************* >-----Original Message----- >From: mikesmower@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Date: Saturday, November 13, 1999 6:33 AM >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >>arid_gardener >>you folks are fantastic. i own a lawn maintenance company and, in the >past, you folks have haelped on several occasions. my last and most >pressing problem relates to lawns. several of my customers have dense, >mature mesquite trees. the last two years, as the trees have matured, there >has been a deterioration of the lawns toward the end of the summer. this >was expected and will be expected next year. is there a way to circumvent >this? i can and will seriously prune the mesquites back but that only seems >to delay the enividible. i do not want to loose any more of my customers >because i have failed to arrive at a solution. is there one? >>one of the customers i lost this year stated that the mesquites produce >some sort of fungus that hurts the lawn. since i have never heard of this, >i believe their new maintenance man is just giving them a line for the >account and nothing will change again next august. any help will be >appreciated. >>thanx tim >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> > > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:30:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:30:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass dead areas Quite often when we have a hot fall like this, the ryegrass seedlings can suffer from several fungal diseases due to the excess water, combined with the hot temperatures. Usually this occurs in areas with poor drainage or soil compaction. Please check if those areas in your yard are spots that get extra traffic such as pathways or areas under swingsets or similar. I would suggest that you take a long screwdriver (8-10 inches) and poke it into the soil in those areas about 30 minutes after watering. You did say that it is not due to lack of water, but it is critical that you actually check the soil water condition in those specific problem areas - make sure that the soil is not dry or too wet. The fact that you have sprinklers going does not necessarily mean that the water is penetrating the soil evenly where you want it to. If the soil is hard and you have trouble pushing the screwdriver in all the way, then the compaction is causing the problem for one of two reasons. 1) If the surface of the soil is wet and damp, but the soil is still hard and the screwdriver won't go in, then you have damping off fungus due to overly wet conditions. Need to loosen the soil to improve the drainage. 2) If the soil in that area is dry and the probe won't go in then the soil is compacted and also may have problem with the overlap pattern of your spriklers not wetting the area enough. Need to adjust the sprinkler pattern to be sure all areas get watered sufficiently and also immrpove the drainage of the soil there so the water can soak in instead of running off. To improve the drainage in those areas, you can dig or rototill the area to loosen, or perhaps just use a long pitchfork or other tool to pierce the hardened crust. If you aerate using a tool, then rake some sand into the holes you make, you will see much better soil penetration. Evene if this is caused by a fungus disease such as damping off, I would not recommend spraying with a fungicide product. These are usually expensive, fairly toxic to animals, children, etc. and not that effective if you have an underlying problem with watering or drainage. You didn't mention how long since you planted your ryegrass seeds. If you got instructions from your nursery or garden center, they should have shown you proper watering for the first 3 weeks to get the seeds started and then tapering off the watering frequency as the plants mature. Make sure that you are not overwatering the grass as it gets older, as too much water can often lead to disease problkems also. Hope that this information is helpful. mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener Mike Hills Research Agronomist, Turfgrass Sales Seed Research of Oregon 5314 West Luke Avenue Glendale, Arizona 85301 USA tel(623)435-9393 fax(623)435-5121 cell(602)909-7298 email mhills_sro@msn.com WEB www.sroseed.com ************************* -----Original Message----- From: gaye.clark@asu.edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 10:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Recently planted rye lawn. Now have several patches front and back that have died. I went over to see why a brown spot had occurred and the grass was brown and dry and just pulled out when I tocuhed it. This is front and back. it's not due to lack of water. what could it be? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From JAPA@CTAZ.COM Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:12:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:12:43 -0700 (MST) From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM JAPA@CTAZ.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:54:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:54:45 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herb Garden Watering Question Hello and thanks for the question - The specific watering requirements will differ depending on which herb species you planted. Some herb plants grow larger than others, and some are higher water users than other species. Also, the amount and system of water delivery will be effected by the type of soil in your herb garden. Did you amend the soil with organic matter, or are you using our native soil with its higher clay content? Is this a raised bed, or planted directly into your yard soil? Some herbs such as Thyme, Rosemary, Lavender and Sage are much more prone to root rot and should be planted in well drained soil and not receive too much water. Others such as Basil, Oregano, Lemongrass, Chiles, Sorrel, Mints, Lemon Balm, Gotu Kola, etc. like or at least tolerate extra water. Please let me know which specific herb plants you have planted and I will try to give you more detailed advice. Also email your mailing addresss and I will have the Arizona Herb Association mail you their info sheet on soil preparation and watering for herbs grown in The Valley. This local herb gardening club meets the first Thursday of each month (except for December) at 7 pm and meetings are either at the Palo Verde room at the Extension office, or are at the Community Room at the Pueblo Grande Museum. The telephone voice mail system and the website both will tell the meeting topic and the meeting location for each month. We welcome guests at our meetings - dues are $25 individual and $35 for a family per year - this includes meetings, monthly newsletter and discounts on many books available at our meetings and out monthly functions. You can check out information on the Arizona Herb Association and their upcoming meetings (some of the Spring meetings will have topics concerning soil and irrigation) by calling tel #602-470-8086 ext. 830 or checking our website at www.accessarizona.com/Community/Groups/AzHerb You may also want to go check out local herb demo gardens to get some ideas - we maintain a demonstration herb garden at the Maricopa Extension office at 4341 east Broadway Road AND we also advise the Desert Botanical Gardne on their herb demonstration garden. The Arizona Herb Association also has a great book published on growing herbs in this area "The Low Desert Herb Gardening Handbook" available for $10 including postage - mail to : Az Herb Assoc., P.O. Box 63101, Phoenix, AZ 85082 The Master Gardener Press has also published an excellent book for beginning gardeners in this area, and this book includes a section on herbs that may be helpful. "Desert Gardening for Beginners' by Cathy Cromell - send $10 check made out to University of Arizona - mail to: Master Gardener Program, Maricopa County Extension, 4341 East Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 - OR, you can pick up the book at that office for $8.00 walk in. One thing to keep in mind under your Eucalyptus tree - keep the dropped leaves cleared away from the plants on a regular basis. Eucalyptus leaves do not mulch down very well and may also leach substances into the soil that slow growth of other plants. Eucalyptus trees also have extensive, invasive roots systems that often compete with other more shallow rooted plants making it difficult to grow other flowers and plants under these trees. You may have no problems, but please keep this in mind for later reference. ALSO, the October 22 issue of the Arizona Republic had a good article on planting and care of Fall Herbs in their Arizona Home and Gardening section. I believe you can access this article online at the Arizona Republic's website, or call them to order a back issue of the paper. Look forward to hearing back from you. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Arizona Herb Association, Phoenix ************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: jess@cvweb.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I have a 2'X 6' herb garden that faces west under the shade of a eucalyptus tree. This weekend I planted twelve herb plants. Here come the questions: > >Question #1: >Do I need a drip on each plant? Currently the plants are sharing six - one gallon drips. > >Question #2: >If your answer is no I do not need a drip on each plant, should I use 1 or 2 gallon drips? > >Question #3: >Where can I get additional information on herb gardening in the desert? > >Thanks for your feedback! > >Jess T. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:37:39 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 16:37:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade plants Check out the article on Shade Plants in the Saturday November 13, 1999 issue of the Arizona Republic in the AZ Home and Garden section. Should be accessable through the Republic's website - if you cannot find it, let me know and I will try to pull the article from our submission files and forward to you. Good Luck - Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County mhills_sro@msn.com ************************************** -----Original Message----- From: JAPA@CTAZ.COM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, November 15, 1999 3:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >LOOKING FOR PLANTS THAT WILL BE IN SHADE ALL THE TIME, ON NORTH SIDE OF HOUSE AT ENTRY. >THAT TAKES LITTLE CARE AND GROWS INTO NICE BUSH. > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:31:31 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:31:31 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Alan Singer wrote: > Mary, > Thanks for writing back. > I am preparing for being a docent in a desert botanical garden. > We are studying plants that grow in this garden. > I need to become very familiar with the list of succulents I indicated > below. > Such things as growing times, blooming, perhaps some interesting information > about a particular plant. > Anything that would work with children and adults. > I hope that helps. > > Thanks > Fran > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mary Irish > To: > Cc: > Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Fran, I would be glad to help, but what is it you want to know? Mary > > > > > > asinger@prodigy.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am working on a project and need to get as much information on > specific succulents as I can. I really need information on the following > succulents: > > > > > > Century Plant - This is actually Agave americana. The plant is grown > ornamentally all over the world and gets large, usually 5 ft tall and as much > across although there can be varieties that are much larger, particulary when > grown in coastal California or the Mediterranean. It usually lives about 20 > years in the Phoenix area and is highly susceptible to the agave snout weevil > > > Huachuca Agave - This is Agave parryi v. huachucensis and is native to > southern Arizona and into northern Sonora. It is usually about 2.5 ft tall > maybe 3 ft and a little less around. It is quite cold hardy, very symmetrical > plant that is widely used in the ornamental trade. > > > Shindagger - Many plants carry this common name but Agave lechuguilla is > one of the plants that is usually associated with the name. That agave has a > wide distribution throughout the Chihuahuan desert, in fact in most areas > where it occurs it is so common that you almost have to walk on it to cross > the area. It is smaller, about 2 ft tall generally, and is rounded on the back > of the leaf with a distinctive striation to the skin. > > > Agave palmeri - This is another larger plant that is native to southern > Arizona but it intergrades north with Agave chrysantha. It is about 3-4 feet > tall and at least that around. It is not particulary common horticulturally, > but is very attractive. > > > Sotol - This name is usually applied to Dasylirion wheeleri, which is > native to the mid elevations of Arizona and into Mexico. The plant is a > collection of tightly held leaves that have tiny teeth on the edge. Unlike > agaves, dasylirion bloom throughout their lives with large, plume-like > flowering heads. > > > Yucca elata - The soaptree yucca is found throughout the Sonoran and > Mohave desert and eastward into New Mexico. It is tall and the flowering > stalks are held high above the plant, the entire thing can be over 25 ft tall. > Plants look grassy and have many small white filaments that are at the base of > the leaf making them look hairy. > > > Yucca baccata - Banana yucca is native to the mid elevations of Arizona > north into New Mexico and Nevada. The plant is pretty variable, it can be > tall, about 6-8 feet tall, or trailing along the ground. The leaves are > generally dusky blue grey but in some populations are a beautiful pale blue > green. The flowers are large and close inside the head. They are reputed to be > edible as are the seed pods. > > > Ocotillo - Fouquieria splendens is native to Arizona with small isolated > populations in Nevada and California. It is part of a small family that is > limited to the deserts of Baja, Sonora and the U.S. of which the boojum tree > is the most remarkable. This plant can lose its leaves, to conserve moisture, > many times during the year. The bloom is beautiful, a cluster of red tubular > flowers held at the end of the long stems. > > > Boojum - Fouquieria columnaris is related to the ocotillo as noted above. > It is an unusualy looking plant, tall (over 50 ft in nature) with a whitish > smooth skin on a trunk that is wider at the base than the top. Stems are very > thorny and occur irregular intervals on the plant. It is entirely summer > dormant, and blooms while it is dormant. > > > Aloes - This is a large genus of succulent plants, most of them from > southern Africa, all of them from the Old World. Horticulturally, most like > some shade here, but there are so many it is hard to generalize too much. > > > Octopus Agave - Agave vilmoriniana is not common in nature but is becoming > very common as an ornamental in Phoenix. It can be large, up to 6 ft across > and almost that tall, and has very soft, curved unarmed leaves. In areas > colder than Phoenix some attention needs to be paid to frost protection for > this plant. I can recommend some books for you to check for more detailed information. Agaves of Continental North America by Howard S. Gentry, Sonoran Desert Atlas by Turner and others, Boojum by R. Humphrey should help some. Good luck, Mary Irish > > > > > > > Any help, pictures, descriptions etc. would be wonderful. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Fran > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:45:59 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:45:59 -0700 From: don olson dolso