From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 31 Mar 2000 11:08:04 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 11:08:04 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Jerusalem Artichokes Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes, may not be the best thing to provide summer shade for the south side of a house. They might provide some shade to the lower part of a house wall. But if you are looking for something to provide summer shade yet allowing the sun to come through in the winter, you might think about a deciduous vine. But deciduous vines tend to look scraggly in the winter. Sunchokes should be planted late enough in the spring such that the new tender green sprouts will not be killed by frost and early enough so they can complete the growing cycle before the first winter frost. Because they take over 6 months to mature, this suggests planting the tubers anytime from late January through the end of May. Summer heat is no problem, because as sunflowers (Helianthus tuberosus)they thrive in it, but while they are growing they will need plenty of water. It helps to shade or mulch the roots. They can be a bit invasive; if any tubers or parts of tubers are left in the ground will certainly have them come the following year. Olin Miller > ---- Original Message ----- From: Rebecca Rasmussen > I am trying to figure out something to plant on the south side of my > house to shade it from the summer sun. I've just moved to Phoenix from > Washington state and feel like I have come to a different planet when it > comes to gardening. Anyways back in Washington I had a nice stand of > Jerusalem Artichokes which grew all the way to the roof. Will Jerusalem > Artichokes do as well here? I know they like the sun but will the heat > be too much for them? Is there some other plant that I should consider > instead? > > Thanks > Rebecca From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:20:05 EST Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:20:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palo verde not bloming You didn't say age of the Palo Verde tree, for they typically do not bloom for several years. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:28:21 EST Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 17:28:21 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Valencia oranges ripen late Valencia oranges do not ripen until Feb. or March. The longer you leave them on the tree the sweeter they become. No they do not affect the bloom in any way. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From n.savage@asu.edu Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:52:55 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:52:55 -0700 From: N. Savage n.savage@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Ouch... Two nights ago I walked into a Palo Verde Tree and got a thorn/sticker in my head.It burned a bit and after it was removed a lump and tenderness still remain. Is there any reason for concern from this thorn or sticker i.e. toxicity, or a piece remaining imbeded? (Yes, next time I will carry a flashlight when walking through my "desert landscaping in the dark.) From dolsontree@hotmail.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 22:44:19 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 22:44:19 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Encarsia Formosa check out the arizona biological control website www.biconet.com Don Olson The Groundskeeper ACLP F-090-2 Cert. Arborist WC-3377 Cert. Pest cont. 930077 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 3:18 PM Subject: [AG] Encarsia Formosa > arid_gardener > Is there a local supplier for the encarsia formosa wasp? This is my last > resort to control the whitefly infestation in my greenhouse. Thx for your > help. Beverly > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From LBradley@sisna.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 20:46:21 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 20:46:21 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Instructional Specialist Horticulture Position with The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Full time Instructional Specialist Senior position opening up in the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Urban Horticulture Program coordinating the volunteer Master Gardener Program. Pays $25,478 - $31,090, full benefits, including tuition waiver (6hrs/semester). Would include teaching volunteers and the public, coordinating programs to promote environmentally responsible gardening and landscaping, working with website, listserves, preparing publications, etc. We will be interviewing for it soon and hope to fill by the end of April. Job Description http://hr2.hr.arizona.edu/18369xoutx.htm Job Application Form http://hr2.hr.arizona.edu/formspage.htm#C Frequently Asked Questions Concerning the Job Process http://hr2.hr.arizona.edu/faq.htm Maricopa County Home Horticulture http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ University of Arizona Cooperative Extension http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/about/ Please share this with anyone whom you think would be a strong candidate. Thanks for your assistance recruiting. Lucy Bradley Lucy K. Bradley From himjolly@aol.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:00:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 21:00:33 -0700 (MST) From: himjolly@aol.com himjolly@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a medium size lime tree that produces yellow skins when ripe, and they have no seeds.Thin skin also- Interested in the name or type as part of the tree is dying and I would like another. Excellent quality fruit and juicy. Zone is So Calif. near the ocean. From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:13:39 -0700 Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:13:39 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: [MG] Owl Pellets There is a bulletin board down at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office where animals [free and for sale] are posted. I think its affiliated with Youth/4-H Services. You might call down there and get a listing put up. Linda Guy alley14@imap1.asu.edu wrote: > HI, I have two beautiful and very vocal roosters. They are very friendly and > have good coloration. However, I live in an urban setting and my neighbor is > complaining. If anyone is interested and can give them a good home please > e-mail me with your phone number and we can arrange a meeting or drop-off. I > don't want to eat them, there too sweet. Thanks. alley14 @imap1.asu.edu > > _______________________________________________ > Maricopa-mg mailing list > Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:20:41 -0700 Date: Sat, 01 Apr 2000 09:20:41 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Sunburnt Saguaro I believe you correctly diagnosed your problem as sunburn, and it will get worse as the heat intensifies. I forwarded your note to a colleague who specializes in native plants. I'm hoping she might have some more advice for you. Transplanting is usually recommended during the first quarter of the year. I was asking her if it was too late to 'reorient' the saguaro back to its original point of view. The only other thing I can suggest is that you use shade cloth to toughen the newly exposed 'skin' for future seasons. Linda Guy Master Gardener PlantPerson@Prodigy.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What would cause a Saguaro, which was planted in the last year, to turn a pinkish color? Some parts of the pink area are soft. This cactus sustained sunburn as it was planted in a different orientation than it originally grew in. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From krwilton@worldnet.att.net Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:43:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 08:43:33 -0700 (MST) From: krwilton@worldnet.att.net krwilton@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to remove our front lawn (Bermuda hybrid - St Augustine I think)and want to minimize the use of chemicals that would affect current border plants and new xeriscape plantings. What's your recommendation? Do you know where I could rent a sod cutter and would it do the trick? The grass area is about 600 Sq Ft. Thanks, Kathleen From Clystag@aol.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:42:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 09:42:08 -0700 (MST) From: Clystag@aol.com Clystag@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently moved to Bullhead City Az. We are trying to cultivate a lawn using fescue. The problem is the winds. We have ample water, but the winds direct the spray away from the lawn. Is there any soil amendmends you are aware of that would hold moisture in the ground, so if a day goes by without water the area doesn't die? I once saw an additive that was like little jelly drops that would expand when moistened and hold water. It was quite expensive and intended for potted plants. It would be a hit in this area if if could be used in larger quantities for landscaping. Any help would be appreciated. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:02:35 EST Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:02:35 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda gras; removing Kathleen, A sod cutter would not work in removing bermuda grass since the roots sometimes may go several feet deep. A chemical herbicide such as Roundup is your only viable choice Good luck. Rod. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Sun, 2 Apr 2000 07:42:33 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 07:42:33 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Vine, Climber Suggestion I've got thirty feet of five foot tall wall that gets sun morning to about three in the afternoon. I plan to water it with a drip system. I plan to bolt a trellis to the wall for it to climb. The soil here has a caliche layer about eight inches down. What are some good vines? I've thought of bougainvilla but it's everywhere. - Jim From RG1253@aol.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:26:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:26:11 -0700 (MST) From: RG1253@aol.com RG1253@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hi i have some canna lilies and dont know how to take care of them like where to cut and thing like that can any help me From cmrick@email.msn.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 16:37:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 16:37:08 -0700 (MST) From: cmrick@email.msn.com cmrick@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For the past two years grasshoppers (altho the grasshopper crop was small) have made lacework of the leaves on my young citrus trees (a Lisbon Lemon, a Grapefruit, a naval orange and a tangelo). How can I guard against them without damaging the fruit and birds that eat the grasshoppers? Appreciate any advice you can give me. Carroll Rickard From JWashi.5241@aol.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:44:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:44:16 -0700 (MST) From: JWashi.5241@aol.com JWashi.5241@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much queen palms should be watered. From upyornse@yahoo.com Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:07:20 -0800 (PST) Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2000 20:07:20 -0800 (PST) From: Upyornse upyornse@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Lemon Scale I have used this remedy successfully. Mix two gallons water with one cup each, brown antiseptic mouthwash, isopropyl alcohol.Then add one tablespoon liquid dish washing soap. Spray with two gallon pump sprayer until tree is drenched. Spray from as many angles as you can, to really drench the tree. Apply this spray between five PM and dusk. Apply this spray every three months. At first you will not see a difference, but the following year after about four applications your trees will shine. I always mark a wall calendar three months ahead to remind me. UPYORNSE __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:41:15 EDT Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:41:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Vine, Climber Suggestion for a south facing wall Jim, There are other colors of Bougainvillea in case you don't like red. Other possibilities could be Pyracantha, Queen's Wreath vine, Cats Claw vine, Cape Honeysuckle, as well as others. The folowing is a posting by Mike Todd which has excellent info on vines. Good luck. Rod A couple of vines spring to mind: (1) the nearly ubiquitous Cat's-claw vine (Macfadeyena ungis-cati)--a vigorous, self-attaching vine with yellow trumpet-like flowers that appear in the spring; and (2) Queen's Wreath (Antigonon leptopus)--a lovely vine with large, heart-shaped leaves and clusters of deep pink flowers that appear once the weather really warms up and last through the fall. Queen's Wreath climbs by tendrils but needs a trellis or a post for support. Both plants love the heat and are reliable for foliage and bloom. My strong preference is for the Queen's Wreath, but that's me. Another vine that we have had success with is the Yellow Orchid-vine (Calleum macroptera also known as Mascagnia macroptera). This vine requires support to climb. We find it to be less impressive from a distance than Queen's Wreath. But if you are looking for something to put near a porch/patio, where it will be appreciated up close, M. macroptera is also a fine choice. This vine has a purple-flowered relative (Mascagnia lilacina) that is slower growing, but more cold hardy than M. macroptera. We just put in a M. lilacina on the south side of our house in Phx--too early to tell what it's eventually going to look like, but it seems to be doing well despite occasional neglect (this is not to say that I recommend neglecting new plantings of any species, mind you). These are some of my recommendations. Perhaps others on the list will add their own favorites. Good luck From deniseorjohn@home.com Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:45:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:45:46 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Queen Palms I would like to plant some queen palms around my pool, but the ground only has about 1 to 1 1/2 feet depth of dirt until you hit almost solid rock. Would the roots of queen palms do o.k. in this type of yard? Do you need much ground area for queen palms? Thanks From ahler@netvalue.net Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:51:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 18:51:38 -0700 (MST) From: ahler@netvalue.net ahler@netvalue.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grapefruit tree that has been planted for 14 months. It was a 15 gallon tree at the time of planting. The tree is about 5 feet tall right now. It bloomed in December and it now has about 40-50 small grapefruit on it, about the size of a large marble. A friend has suggested that we remove all the grapefruit so the tree can us its energy to continue growing. Since the branches are too small to support a full size grapefruit, do you recommend that we remove the grapefruits? If so, any special way to do it? thanks, Jane From sharynnj@mindspring.com Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:07:39 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:07:39 -0700 (MST) From: sharynnj@mindspring.com sharynnj@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Burclover has taken over my backyard. Is there a weed killer that I can use on my Burmuda grass to get rid of this pest? Thank you, Sharynn From sharynnj@mindspring.com Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:08:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 20:08:02 -0700 (MST) From: sharynnj@mindspring.com sharynnj@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Burclover has taken over my backyard. Is there a weed killer that I can use on my Burmuda grass to get rid of this pest? Thank you, Sharynn From fmnewton@uswest.net Sun, 2 Apr 2000 21:56:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Apr 2000 21:56:22 -0700 (MST) From: fmnewton@uswest.net fmnewton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What method of weed control is best for these subdivision lots in the Mtn. Vista Ranch area. With the recent rains, our bare back yard is sprouting green and I need to control the weeds yet be able to landscape later. I presume this area was once a cotton field since we had an infestation of cotton weevils. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks from an Alaska transplant, Fred Newton From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 08:46:52 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 08:46:52 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Houseplant Gnats It's been a long time since I dealt with these: I have a small cactus [in house] that I received as a Christmas present and with the spring weather the gnats abound. I have a bottle of soil drench with a Bt strain that is supposed to work on these midgets... What other ways have you handled these successfully? Thanks, Linda Guy From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:07:43 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:07:43 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cactus Problems I have gone through my limited resources on cactus problem diagnosis. I don't have enough information to diagnose but can offer you several suggestions for proceeding. First, you can bring samples of the problem to the Maricopa County Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix, AZ 85040, where a weekly diagnostic meeting [Friday, very early] is held by staff and Master Gardener volunteers. The second option is to call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline at 480-941-1225 on M-F from 10 to 11:30 am. They specialize in these plants. Be prepared to share information on the type of cactus. For example, your second problem "white fuzz or mold" on cactus is probably cochineal scale IF the plant is a prickly pear. Or it could be some other sort of fungal rot from an unidentified injury. The brown spots have me stumped, easy to do since I don't personally grow cactus. Could be a disease or a pest or even sunscald if the cactus was movted and did not get replanted in its original orientation. In general, cactus will do better with less rather than more water, particularly until such time as you figure out the culprits(s).. Excess water is hazardous to the plant's health, especially in the cooler season when our literature suggests virtually no watering [plant is dormant] due to rot susceptibility. Be prepared to discuss your watering and fertilizing practices as well as the sun exposure with whomever you choose to contact. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Ron & Cheryl wrote: > No mam I never did receive a reply. I could sure use some advice about the > problem with my cactus. Any help would be greatly appreciated! > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda A. Guy" > To: > Sent: Friday, March 31, 2000 5:49 AM > Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Did you ever receive a reply from one of us? > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > cszark@xtratyme.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I have a 2 cactus over 6 ft. One has 4 "fins" that start wide at base > and narrow as it gets to top. It's getting brown spots that are drying out. > The top has new growth so I think it's getting enough water. Help? My > other one is wrinkled looking and the thorns have a white fuzz or mold > growing at the base where they connect. Some thorns have fallen off. Please > help if you can ? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:20:21 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:20:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Replacing Citrus Tree Based on the supplemental information you provided, I assume you may have had some phytophthora foot rot, which is also called brown rot gummosis, due to sap being secreted from infection sites, as you described in your follow-up note. We have a publication on controlling the fungus in the home yard, Q-191 which can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top or can usually be viewed in the reference section (#635) of your public library. Vacated tree sites can be fumigated with DD [dichloraopropane - dichloropropene] or Vapam. Follow the instructions on the product very precisely. Such fumigants should not be used when living plants are located closer than 5 feet from the drip line of the dead tree or when roots from other plants may be located within the soil to be treated. Citrus trees with a 'sour orange' rootstock are resistant to PFR and should be used. However, be aware that if the grafts are not PFR-resistant, you must keep the bud union 4-6" above the soil line when planting. You will also want to reexamine your watering habits. A single bubbler which you used with frequency is not the preferred practice. Deep infrequent irrigations are the way to go. A good place to start is another publication on the topic of citrus irrigation; this one is online at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Geleyan@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > A pink grapefruit tree developed a disease and we cut it down and are digging out the roots. We want to plant an orange tree in that location because we have a bubbler in that location. Is there anything we need to treat the soil with, and is there any way to finish killing the deeply embedded roots? If application of a chemical is needed, how long should we wait before planting another tree? Sap was oozing from the branches and leaves and most of the branches branches died. We did not have it diagnosed - too late for that. > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:26:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:26:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Clump Birch Tree I could not find a specific reference to Clump Birch, but in the Sunset Western Garden Book, p. 183-4 on birches (Betula) it says that all birches need ample water at all times and a regular feeding program. So, if you do not satisfy the plant's need for H20, it may well attempt to quench it's thirst elsewhere. All are susceptible to aphids that drip honeydew and for that reason, the book suggests that these are not trees for patios or near cars. They have very poor drought tolerance. Check that your tree is a Betula and that my advice is pertinent to it. Linda Guy Master Gardener angie@dbproperties.com wrote: > arid_gardener > could you provide information on a Clump Birch Tree. We have one near our swimming pool and I am concerned about the roots possibly damaging our swimming pool. I am guessing it's about 15 ft away. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:47:55 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:47:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Apricot Disease; Lady Bank's rose Your apricot may have a brown rot disease that is from a common fungus attacking stone fruit. It can overwinter in the rotted fruit on the ground and in dried rotted fruit remaining on the tree; also, obviously in infected wood. Spring winds and rain carry the spores to the healthy parts of the tree in bud. Flowers can be impacted from the time buds open until petals fall; most fruit will rot in the month prior to expected harvest. Yours seems to have grown down into the trunk where it is producing cankers that ooze sap. This suggests that you may be beyond the strategies of good leaf/fruit clean-up practices and promptly removing and destroying all infected and affected parts of the tree. If not, fungicides recommended in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver contain captan, chlorothalonil or triforine. Always follow the directions explicitly when using this product. If the whole tree is impacted, you may need to consider replacement. Use the 25-30 year expected life span as a guide in the decision. Also consider the potential impact on other almond/stone fruit trees you may have in the yard. As to the Lady Banks rose question, it is not receiving sufficient sunlight. Roses prefer full sun, with afternoon relief in our summer heat extending the bloom season. But my neighbor has at least a half dozen along a fully exposed chain link fence that do well all summer, even with two labs jumping all over them. Fertilizer can help the bloom cycle but your location is the bigger issue at this time, I think. Linda Guy Master Gardener Beth Brumhall wrote: > No I have not received a reply. > Beth > > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: killshandra@hotmail.com > >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 06:48:30 -0700 > > > >Did you ever receive a reply from one of us? > > > >Linda Guy, MG > > > >killshandra@hotmail.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > A year ago we moved into our house that has a pre-existing mature > >apricot tree. It seems to be oozing a lot of substance (mostly on the > >lower trunk)that looks like sap. The tree doesn't seem to be producing a > >lot of leaves or fruit. The previous owner stated the tree did well and > >produced a lot of fruit. What can I do for the tree to help it become more > >healthy? Is the loss of the sap substance a significant problem? > > > > > > We also have a Banksia (sp) rose that is growing on a trellis. It is on > >the north side of the house, and does not receive much sun. It has not > >flowered since we have lived in the house. Is fertilization important, and > >how much is necessary? > > > > > > Thank you > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:51:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 09:51:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Thornless Rose Varieties A neighbor was asking about these....I've read that Lady Bank's is virtually thornless. Are there any others that do particularly well here? Thanks. Linda Guy From paulmarian@aol.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 15:49:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 15:49:59 -0700 (MST) From: paulmarian@aol.com paulmarian@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My hibiscus is two years old. It had flowered when it was planted. However it has not bloomed since. What can I do to encourage blossoms. It is planted on the south side of our home in well drained soil. From renior307@aol.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 08:37:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 08:37:42 -0700 (MST) From: renior307@aol.com renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dear Question? I planted a Lysaloma Tree otherwise known as "desert fern" a year and a half ago. It was doing just fine but I noticed in the last couple of days that it's leaves are turning brown and "deteriorating"...dropping off?? I water once a week deeply. Could it be too much water or is this it's natural behavior this time of year? How can I revive this dear tree. It is about 8 feet tall and on the "slim" side. Also my tomatoes have had lots of blossoms but as yet have not produced any fruit. What's the deal? Any remedy? Like to share that this morning while I was watering with a "feeding sprayer" two hummingbirds kept swooping down for a drink from it. They were a foot away from my body! this kept up for at least five minutes. What a nice way to start my day. P.S. I am the one with the desert prim rose problem...they were like taking over my yard , they never move into the house! but I tried the Roundup removal system and it didn't work. They were "injured" but haven't given up! My new method it just pulling them up. Oh well! Thanks for your time and effort on my questions. Renee From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 03 Apr 2000 16:49:47 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2000 16:49:47 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] lysiloma I would make two observations about your Lysiloma tree. First, you are probably watering it too much. Once a week in the cool weather is quite frequent. Try cutting back to once every 2-3 weeks until it is very warm and then every 10 days should be sufficient unless it is a very small tree. Second, lysilomas do lose their leaves this time of the year. In some individuals they lose them gradually over the last two months, in others they fall off all of a sudden about now. You should see the newer leaves emerging almost immediately if the leaves are falling off for the first time. Most will be fully leafed out by mid month. Good luck, Mary Irish From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:09 EDT Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:09 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Queen palms planted over caliche Your situation is certainly not favorable for planting Queen palms. The soil depth is very marginal, the Queen should have a minumum of two feet of soil. However drainage could be an even worse problem. Queen palms do not like wet feet. To check on your drainage dig a hole down to the rock or caliche and fill it with water, allow it to drain and refill. If the second filling has not drained in 24 hours then you must do something to correct the drainage. One thing to do is to drill a hole through the rock so that the water will drain. The other option would be to plant the palm in a raised bed, which might be your best option given the shallow soil condition. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:08 EDT Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:08 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Grapefruit tree, newly planted with lots of fruit It is rather unusual for a year old grapefruit tree to be loaded with fruit, however you need not worry for nature will take care of getting rid the fruit. Just give it a little time. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:07 EDT Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:06:07 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Weed control Fred, The herbicide Glyphosate should eliminate your weeds provided the weeds are young and actively growing, but be careful and do not spray on any plants you do not want removed. Now would be a good time to spray since the weeds are actively growing from the recent rains. Glyphosate is not active in the soil so you don't have to be concerned about killing any good plants near by . Glyphosate is sold under the trade name of Roundup as well as others. At this time of year I usually mix the preemergent herbicide Surflan with the mix to give the weeds a double whammy, since the Surflan will kill sprouting seeds. Surflan should not be used if you plan to plant seeds within six months. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:42:07 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:42:07 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Aphid Infestation Hello again! I've never heard that the soapy solution deters the beneficials as this is designed to penetrate the soft bodied 'suckers' attacking your plant. Are you washing away the pheremone in the process, though? For now, let me suggest that you go out and hose off the leaves daily. They will be gone as soon as the warm weather hits, but we do want to ensure you also have tomato plants left by then Linda Guy Master Gardener. Gregcm2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My Tomatoes are being eaten alive by aphids! I've used a Ladybug pheromone to no avail. No Ladybugs..... will the soapy water solution I've been using drive them off too? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:46:21 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:46:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lime Variety Identification We have a publication online regarding suitable citrus varieties for the low desert we're in. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf This may help you identify the variety. Your best bet is to contact your own county cooperative extension service, whose phone number will be listed in the government pages of your phone directory. Linda Guy Master Gardener - Maricopa County, AZ himjolly@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a medium size lime tree that produces yellow skins when ripe, and they have no seeds.Thin skin also- > Interested in the name or type as part of the tree is dying and I would like another. Excellent quality fruit and juicy. > Zone is So Calif. near the ocean. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:49:04 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:49:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Reaction Allergies are a very, very personal response. I have never heard that there is specific toxicity for this particular tree, but I know that when I prune these and others in my yard, my welts from the scratches reach greater proportions than do my husband's. Perhaps we are simply more 'delicate'! Linda Guy Master Gardener "N. Savage" wrote: > arid_gardener > Two nights ago I walked into a Palo Verde Tree and got a thorn/sticker in > my head.It burned a bit and after it was removed a lump and tenderness > still remain. Is there any reason for concern from this thorn or sticker > i.e. toxicity, or a piece remaining imbeded? (Yes, next time I will carry a > flashlight when walking through my "desert landscaping in the dark.) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:51:19 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 08:51:19 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Queen Palm Irrigation Refer to our publication on care of palm trees which you can reach online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Linda Guy Master Gardener JWashi.5241@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How much queen palms should be watered. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 04 Apr 2000 09:44:50 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2000 09:44:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fig Tree Varieties for Cochise County I'm hoping we have a few Cochise County MGs online who can help me find information on fig tree varieties that are most suitable for Douglas, AZ. My mother-in-law adores figs but hasn't had success cultivating them. Are there special needs for growing figs there? If possible, I'd like to surprise her with a few plants for Mom's Day. Many thanks, Linda Guy Maricopa County MG From cdmj1@juno.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 18:15:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 18:15:54 -0700 (MST) From: cdmj1@juno.com cdmj1@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the secret of growing tomatoes here in the east valley? Seems no matter what I try, they just won't produce fruit or do anything but look like overgrown weeds. Have tried mulch, fertilizer, water, no water, screening, sticky traps, sprays for bugs and nothing works. Must be a desert secret! From Diamon4@goodnet.com Mon, 3 Apr 2000 19:57:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 19:57:58 -0700 (MST) From: Diamon4@goodnet.com Diamon4@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does anyone know how to stop cutter bee's from ravabing the leaves of roses? I have used netting in the past, having to wrap the entire bush in it which prevents the bees from eating the leaves, but it deforms the plant, not to mention how ugly it looks! D. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:09:09 EDT Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 17:09:09 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Cutter bees Since the cutter bees do not ingest the rose leaves there is little that we can do to stop them, unless we want to stand guard with a can of bug spray and douse them as they are doing their cutting. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:17:44 -0700 Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 14:17:44 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] How Late can you Plant Roses? Is the optimal time to plant bareroot roses past? Should I wait for next year? - Jim From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:01:13 EDT Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 18:01:13 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] How Late can you Plant Roses? Jim, Yes it is too late to plant bareroot roses. Here in the low desert the bareroot roses should be planted in January or February. However potted roses can still be planted safely. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 05 Apr 2000 08:26:53 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 08:26:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Replacing Citrus --------------58DF4C704985614D1B670017 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is more information from our citrus scientist, Dr. Glenn Wright: "It sounds to me as if the tree died of Phytophthora root rot, or less likely Texas root rot. In the case of Phytophthora, the best control to remove the disease from the soil would be to cover the affected area with plastic, allow the area to remain completely dry and fallow until the fall. Dr. Matheron's studies suggest that this will help kill any remaining disease spores in the soil. Alternatively, the person could apply Alliette or Subdue as a soil drench according to the label directions.. I suppose that there are some soil sterilants that could be used, but these may sterilize the soil for longer than the homeowner might like. Most of the roots will rot away fairly quickly, it is the disease that remains in the soil that should be dealt with." Good luck! Linda Guy --------------58DF4C704985614D1B670017 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is more information from our citrus scientist, Dr. Glenn Wright:

"It sounds to me as if the tree died of Phytophthora root rot, or less likely Texas root rot.  In the case of Phytophthora, the best control to remove the disease from the soil would be to cover the affected area with plastic, allow the area to remain completely dry and fallow until the fall.  Dr. Matheron's studies suggest that this will help kill any remaining disease spores in the soil.  Alternatively, the person could apply Alliette or Subdue as a soil drench according to the label directions..  I suppose that there are some soil sterilants that could be used, but these may sterilize the soil for longer than the homeowner might like.  Most of the roots will rot away fairly quickly, it is the disease that remains in the soil that should be dealt with."

Good luck!
Linda Guy
 
  --------------58DF4C704985614D1B670017-- From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 05 Apr 2000 08:41:29 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 08:41:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pear Leaf Drop Can you post more specific information about your situation? Have they aver produced or are these newly transplanted trees; what is your watering schedule; do you fertilize; how much and when; what is the exposure; where are you located; did the trees experience any thing out of the ordinary that could have precipitated the leaf drop [chemical spray, sudden weather change, fertilizer burn from too heavy an application, etc.]. Linda Guy Master Gardener gavaman@surfsouth.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 4 Bradford Pear trees that bloomed and now it > seems that the leaves are dying off. Can you > help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From aliceh1@juno.com Wed, 5 Apr 2000 13:50:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 13:50:48 -0700 (MST) From: aliceh1@juno.com aliceh1@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Eleven months ago, we had our front yard landscaped. A large (about 8 feet high) ocotillo was planted on the north side. So far, it has not produced any green growth. The branches are still supple and not brittle. How long does it take for green to appear? For a while, we sprayed it several times a week with water. Should we be doing something else. From jabuck1@uswest.net Wed, 5 Apr 2000 13:06:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 13:06:32 -0700 (MST) From: jabuck1@uswest.net jabuck1@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have several bouganvilla that were frost bit last winter. They are starting to become green again fronm the bottom up, but still have a long way to go. My question is, can I go ahead and trim off the tops and sides to get rid of the "dead" parts and also make it more full, or should I wait? I have a yellow oleander tress in the same spot? Thank you, Jennifer Buckley From bstruthers2@earthlink.net Wed, 5 Apr 2000 10:23:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 10:23:10 -0700 (MST) From: bstruthers2@earthlink.net bstruthers2@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When can we plant Bermuda grass seed to insure good germination? From dahart@uswest.net Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:49:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:49:20 -0700 (MST) From: dahart@uswest.net dahart@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am searching for a privacy hedge to replace a wooden fence at my Phoenix home. I have 2 toddlers,so I need something that will keep them in and is not harmful (eating or touching). Therefore, bougivallia and oleandar are not a possibility and those of course, are the ones all the nurseries sell at reasonable prices. I am going to need quite a few. I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks so much. Sincerely, DeAnna From Gregcm2@aol.com Thu, 6 Apr 2000 03:32:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 03:32:59 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I believe I have powdery mildew on my rose bushes. It is powdery white and causes the leaves to turn yellow or curl shut. I just noticed it a couple of days ago on one rose bush and it is spreading rapidly to the others. The rose bushes are within 4 feet of my tomato plants. How can I remove the powdery mildew? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:27:40 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:27:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Ocotillo Greening Ocotillos can take up to two years to recover from being transplanted. I know this from personal experience! Mine is in its second year [I had replaced another one, probably prematurely since I didn't realize it needed such a long time to revitalize itself] and had all but given up when I noticed it greening and producing a few blooms this past week. Consult more detailed information on caring for your transplanted ocotillo at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000999.html Mary Irish, formerly of the DBG, provided this response to another very similar question. Linda Guy Master Gardener aliceh1@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Eleven months ago, we had our front yard landscaped. A large (about 8 feet high) ocotillo was planted on the north side. So far, it has not produced any green growth. The branches are still supple and not brittle. How long does it take for green to appear? For a while, we sprayed it several times a week with water. Should we be doing something else. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:35:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:35:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda Lawn Seeding We usually recommend waiting until mid to late May to seed bermuda lawns. The soil needs to have warmed for this hot weather turf. This and other 'Timely Tips' are located at our website on http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm There is also a very detailed chapter on lawns in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Linda Guy Master Gardener bstruthers2@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > When can we plant Bermuda grass seed to insure good germination? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:38:14 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:38:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Frost-Sensitive Ornamentals Now is the time to start pruning your bougainvillea and oleanders, as they begin to leaf out with new spring growth. For this and other pointers, month by month, see our "Timely Tips" at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener jabuck1@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have several bouganvilla that were frost > bit last winter. They are starting to become > green again fronm the bottom up, but still have a > long way to go. My question is, can I go ahead and trim > off the tops and sides to get rid of the "dead" > parts and also make it more full, or should I > wait? I have a yellow oleander tress in the same > spot? > Thank you, > Jennifer Buckley > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:43:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:43:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Powdery Mildew We have a publication on Powdery Mildew and its control at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1033.pdf It seems to indicate that the mildew is specific to the type of plant and doesn't transfer to other plants unless they are closely related. So it appears that the attack on your roses should not impact your tomatoes. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Gregcm2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I believe I have powdery mildew on my rose bushes. It is powdery white and causes the leaves to turn yellow or curl shut. I just noticed it a couple of days ago on one rose bush and it is spreading rapidly to the others. The rose bushes are within 4 feet of my tomato plants. How can I remove the powdery mildew? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:55:15 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 07:55:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Plant Suggestions For Birds The Sunset Western Garden Book has a list of plants to attract butterflies and hummingbirds. Our publication on flowers cites a plant's ability to lure hummers, seed-eating birds and butterflies. It's located at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100table.pdf The companion piece with general planting instructions on various flowers is available at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100.pdf Judy Mielke also has a list regarding native plants that attract wildlife in the back of her book "Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes." You might also make contact with the state's Audubon Society. Their website is at http://www.audubon.org/chapter/az/ Linda Guy Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm trying to attract birds to my backyard here in Tucson. I already have a > bird bath. > > I was wondering what type of plants to plant. My yard has 5' walls around > it and I will be planting against the east and west walls. The west wall > gets first sun, but it is shaded in the afternoon. > > For the west wall, I want a climber to screen out the neighbors a bit more. > Against the east wall, I could put shrubs of some kind. I was originally > thinking of roses and bougainvilla, but I don't think either are very good > for birds. Everything will be watered on drip. > > Thanks in advance, > > - Jim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:01:15 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:01:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Harvesting Fava Beans I don't grow fava beans so don't have the specific answer as to appropriate time to harvest. But the folks at Native Seeds Search in Tucson sell these seeds and probably could provide an answer to you. Their website, which has an email contact function, is at http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/ The Sunset Western Garden Book says that the immature pods can eaten like edible-pod peas; mature or immature seeds are prepared like dry or green limas. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener goosemother@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have successfully grown fava beans over the winter and have a full crop on 12 large plants. The bean pods are getting large now. When do I harvest them? They are the purple variety. If I open the moist pod the inner grean beans dry out. Also, can I save some of the beans for seed this fall? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:06:07 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:06:07 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Attracting Birds Yet another wildlife reference was under my nose in our own website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-anml.htm Linda From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:26:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:26:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Beetle Identification and Control I consulted our Master Gardener Entomology Manual and found a vegetable weevil about 1/2" long with a V-shaped white marking on the rear of the wing covers. It appears to have a bit of a 'snout', too. They usually attack vegetables during the winter and early spring. I presume that warming weather will eventually take care of your issue. I've never specifically addressed this pest, so I don't know the specific controls. Hand-picking would help, or you could try rotenone or a pyrethrum-based insecticides to control the beetles organically. I'm not familiar with other compounds. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener heygary@theriver.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in Pinal county, and have had good luck growing broccholi in the past. But now I have some 1/2 inch long (and smaller) rust colored beetle like bugs with brown heads on them that are eating all the leaves off of the plants. Any idea what they are called and any effective controls for them? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:41:43 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 08:41:43 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Questions Irrigating citrus is discussed in good detail in a new publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf In the Timely Tips columns for March and April, several problems with citrus leaves are noted. You might want to review these to see if this is applicable to your situation. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm I'm not sure why the grapefruit leaves are a different shade of green; new growth often is a different color and perhaps the grapefruit has more than the other two citrus trees. Also, perhaps this is just a difference amongst varieties of citrus. Linda Guy Master Gardener azmason@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > How often and how deep to I need to water young citrus trees? Young being 4 - 5 years old, I believe, as they are in the 4 - 6 ft range in height? > Also, ruby grapefruit tree has brown spots on a few leaves? What is this an indication of? The other leaves are light green compared to the navel orange > and lemon tree. > > Thanks for your anticpated help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 06 Apr 2000 13:29:22 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 13:29:22 -0700 From: Walter Morrow wmorrow@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Harvesting Fava Beans >> I have successfully grown fava beans over the winter and have a full crop on 12 large plants. The bean pods are getting large now. When do I harvest them? They are the purple variety. If I open the moist pod the inner grean beans dry out. Also, can I save some of the beans for seed this fall? My introduction to favas was eating the dried beans. If that's what you want, you can just leave them on the plants until the pods are dry. (And you can plant from that seed next fall.) When I started growing my own, however, I tried eating them fresh and green, and for me that's the way to go; now I never let any pods dry on my plants. For most of the varieties I've grown I pick them when I can't feel any open space between the beans in the pods. That works because the pods start off bigger than the seeds, and the seeds grow until they fill out the pods. For the Tarahumara favas I'm growing now, however, it doesn't seem to work the same way. The Tarahumara pods seem to grow along with the seeds; from the time the seeds are small they fill the pod, but if I leave them, both the seeds and the pods will grow more. I've been harvesting them when the seeds are a half inch long or slightly longer; that's still smaller than the seeds of other varieties I've grown. I've gotten most of my seeds from Native Seeds/Search, as Linda suggested. I've done well with their Guatemalan Purple variety. Is that the purple you have? Its seeds are usually still green when I pick them, but sometimes they are showing purple, and I think that means I picked the pod too late. In Tucson I've planted as early as mid-Sept for several years, trying to get some harvest before it gets too cold, but that has rarely happened. Almost always I have to wait til March for any harvest, and I'm starting to suspect that I could plant as late as the beginning of Nov without setting back the harvest date at all. My planting this year was made at the end of the first week of October, and I've been harvesting for 2-3 weeks now. Did you notice when your plants started flowering? I always have a period of maybe three weeks when the plants flower, but no pods are set. Did your plants do that? Walter Morrow 621-3650 Applications Systems Analyst Ag Administrative Services, University of Arizona From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 6 Apr 2000 16:42:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 16:42:41 -0700 (MST) From: saz621@primenet.com saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you have recommended varieties of fruit, nut and vegetables on this site? If so, where? Thank you. From sa2346@aol.com Wed, 5 Apr 2000 19:44:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 19:44:29 -0700 (MST) From: sa2346@aol.com sa2346@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have trouble with some of my petunias every year. About a third of them don't survive. They get a wilted look after a week or so and die. I can't figure this out. I buy healthy looking ones at the nursery and plant them in pots and in a flower garden usually in Oct. From thahn1@uswest.net Thu, 6 Apr 2000 18:39:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 18:39:26 -0700 (MST) From: thahn1@uswest.net thahn1@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have tulips and daffodils. At first they started growing like crazy. All of a sudden the leaves are beginning to brown. (from the tips going down). I live 1 mile east of Metro Center. Am i using too much water? Or would this happen because of too much fertilizer? Desperate...I'm competing with my neighbor. From retiredplc@aol.com Thu, 6 Apr 2000 06:14:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 06:14:27 -0700 (MST) From: retiredplc@aol.com retiredplc@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Grass Watering Schedules - the schedules talk to inches per week. We have 7 day - 24 hour timers that control frequency and duration of "ON". Please, is there a 'ideal' frequency of watering? For example, everyday, every other day, etc. in order to 'put down' the inches per week? Deep watering vs. shallow watering? We have rye in winter & bemuda in the summer. Thank you, Paul Cote Westbrook Village (acres of grass) Peoria, AZ From elfmagic@atlantic.net Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:43:57 -0400 Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 21:43:57 -0400 From: Robert Hobbs elfmagic@atlantic.net Subject: [AG] Fw: citris HELP!!!! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BFA011.369229A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable -----Original Message----- From: Robert Hobbs To: arid_garener@ag.arizona.edu Date: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 9:39 PM Subject: citris HELP!!!! I,m not sure what to do about my orange trees I planted on March 17 they = are no bigger than my thumb and about 2 ft. high and got over two = hundred little oranges I,m sure the trees won,t grow big enough to = support all of this in this first year Please!!! what should I do Rob = Hobbs SpringHill Fl. =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BFA011.369229A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

 
I,m not sure what to do about my orange trees I planted on March 17 = they=20 are no bigger than my thumb and about 2 ft. high and got over two = hundred little=20 oranges I,m sure the trees won,t grow big enough to support all of this = in this=20 first year  Please!!! what should I do Rob Hobbs SpringHill = Fl.
 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BFA011.369229A0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 06 Apr 2000 23:27:21 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 23:27:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Vegetables, Fruit and Nut varieties for Area Yes, you can visit the on-line Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Just click on the table of contents and you will see a section on vegetables and one on fruits. You can also find a list of publications, including one on fruits and nuts at the following page: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. While you are at our site, be sure to check out our archives where a wealth of gardening information is stored from past questions and answers. You can find it from our home page at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/. From here scroll down to the option called "Ask a question", which will take you to the archives. There is a lot of useful and interesting info to be found just by starting out at the home page, including a Calendar of Gardening Events. We hope that you will accept our invitation to "take a tour" :>) Happy Gardening! Sue Bass Master Gardener saz621@primenet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you have recommended varieties of fruit, nut and vegetables on this site? If so, where? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rcruz9146@aol.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:52:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:52:15 -0700 (MST) From: rcruz9146@aol.com rcruz9146@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just planted some strawberry plants in 8 inch potts. they are Fragaria 'Mara des Bois' variety. I used a b-1 root shock and stimulature right after transfering. I bought then from Home Depot. After 4 days in the new pot they dont seem to be doing very well. Any tips would be very appreciated. From kmiller6@uswest.net Fri, 7 Apr 2000 01:26:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 01:26:20 -0700 (MST) From: kmiller6@uswest.net kmiller6@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a plant that looks kind of like a bush. I know it would be so much better if you had a name, but it's leaves are green and the outside edge is white. it has many small branches from the base. it's indoor, and a house plant. Anyway, my question is what kind of disease does it have. The leaves, stems, and even the branches leading to the leaves have a brown, scaley thing on it. They are all over it. The leaves seem also to be dying. The brown stuff is not bugs that I know of, because they do not move. They look more like a fungus or such. Any ideas? From dunnan@infinet-is.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:07:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 10:07:23 -0700 (MST) From: dunnan@infinet-is.com dunnan@infinet-is.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have no knowledge of trees and bought a house with two. The roots are beginning to move a cinderblock fence and lift a sidewalk. Can I just cut the roots doing this? One tree is a Mulberry; the other is an ash and is tilting about 15 degrees from straight and is about 25 feet tall. could you advise? Or tell me where to get help? Thanks! From katt6@uswest.net Fri, 7 Apr 2000 12:51:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 12:51:35 -0700 (MST) From: katt6@uswest.net katt6@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I understand that sunflowers have an alleopathic effect on surrounding plants. What crops do they affect and why? I have sunflowers planted under my mesquite tree but very near to my tomatoes. Is this bad? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 17:56:36 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 17:56:36 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus, newly planted with tiny oranges Robert, Don't worry about your orange tree. Nature will take its course and soon there won't be a single orange on the tree. Typically citrus do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground at least four years. At least that is the case in Arizona, and I would expect them to do the same in Florida. For a positive answer, call your county extension office. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 18:12:04 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 18:12:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Tree root damage Yes you can cut the roots on your trees that are lifting your fence and sidewalk, however there is always the chance that you will kill the tree. I suggest that you call a certified arborist for a positive answer. Check the yellow pages for arborist listings or the following website: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html%3e Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 18:23:49 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 18:23:49 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: aBOUT pYMATOTRICHUM Javier, I'm forwarding your email to Dr. Mary Olsen of the Pathology Dept. at University of Arizona. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From pmelam@ucdavis.edu Fri, 07 Apr 2000 16:06:50 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 16:06:50 -0700 From: Pamela Geisel pmelam@ucdavis.edu Subject: [AG] New CD-ROM on Solving Garden Problems --=====================_4578730==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I just wanted to take a moment to let you know the long awaited CD ROM for solving garden and landscape problems is now available. Following is some information about the CD and how to order it. If you get the CD, let us know if you like it!!!Happy Gardening and volunteering. Pam Geisel UC's New CD Shows Gardeners Nonchemical Pest Control A new tool from the University of California will help backyard gardeners became better stewards of their own corner of the earth -- their vegetable gardens and landscapes. The UC Statewide Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Project just >released this spring its new interactive garden problem solver on compact disc. The UC Guide to Solving Garden and Landscape Problems. For both Macintosh and PC computers, the CD will help gardeners easily solve more than 600 common pest and disease problems of fruits, vegetables and woody ornamental plants. The guide was originally prepared by UC scientists to help horticultural advisors and >county farm advisors, master gardeners, retail nursery personnel and others who >advise the public. But the guide is so easy to use that anyone can proficiently diagnose their pest problems. It contains more than 4,800 of IPM's renowned photographs to help identify pests and disorders of more than 40 different fruits and vegetables and more than 80 ornamental trees. It offers suggestions for nonchemical pest control methods; natural enemies for biological control; and tips to promote good plant health. It also shows the user how to eliminate unnecessary pesticide use and, if necessary, select pesticides that ose minimal risks to human health and the environment.. Although developed specifically for the >West, most of the information is useful for gardeners anywhere in the United States. The UC Guide to Solving Garden and Landscape Problems is available from >local offices of UC Cooperative Extension or UC ANR Communication Services (phone 800-994-8849, fax 510-643-5470), or order online at (http://www .ipm.ucdavis.edu/IPMPROJECT/ADS/cd_solvinggarden.html ) For additional information about the guide, contact UC Cooperative Extension Horticulture Advisor Pamela M. Geisel in Fresno at (559) 456-7554 or by email at pmelam@ucdavis.edu. Tip by John Stumbos, ANR News & Information Outreach, (530) 754-9554, jdstumbos@ucdavis.edu Pamela M. Geisel Farm Advisor Environmental Horticulture Pamela M. Geisel Farm Advisor Environmental Horticulture ************************************** University of California Cooperative Extension 1720 S. Maple Ave. Fresno, CA 93702 (559)456-7554 FAX (559) 456-7575 Cell phone (209)907-8468 ************************************* _______________________________________________ Hort-agents mailing list Hort-agents@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/ma ilman/listinfo/hort-agents --=====================_4578730==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just wanted to take a moment to let you know the long awaited CD ROM for solving garden and landscape problems is now available.  Following is some information about the CD and how to order it.  If you get  the CD, let us know if you like it!!!Happy Gardening and volunteering.  Pam Geisel


UC's New CD Shows Gardeners Nonchemical Pest Control  

A new tool from the University  of California will help backyard gardeners  became better stewards of their own  corner of the earth -- their vegetable gardens  and  landscapes.  The UC Statewide  Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Project  just  >released this spring its new interactive garden problem solver on compact  disc.  The  UC Guide to Solving Garden and Landscape  Problems.  For  both Macintosh and PC  computers,  the CD will help gardeners easily solve more  than 600 common  pest and disease  problems of fruits, vegetables and  woody ornamental plants. The  guide  was originally prepared by UC scientists  to help horticultural advisors and  >county  farm advisors, master gardeners, retail  nursery personnel and others who  >advise  the public.  But the guide is so easy to  use that anyone can proficiently  diagnose  their pest problems.  It contains more than  4,800 of IPM's renowned  photographs to help identify pests and disorders of  more than 40 different fruits and  vegetables  and more than 80 ornamental trees.  It offers suggestions for  nonchemical pest  control methods; natural enemies for biological  control; and tips  to promote good  plant health.  It also shows the user how  to eliminate  unnecessary pesticide  use and, if necessary, select pesticides  that ose minimal risks to  human  health and the environment..  Although developed  specifically for the  >West, most of  the information is useful for gardeners  anywhere in the United  States.  The UC Guide to Solving  Garden and Landscape Problems is available from  >local  offices of UC Cooperative Extension or UC  ANR Communication Services (phone  800-994-8849,  fax 510-643-5470), or order online at
(ht= tp://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/IPMPROJECT/ADS/cd_solvinggarden.html )
For additional  information about the guide, contact UC  Cooperative Extension Horticulture  Advisor Pamela M. Geisel in Fresno at (559) 456-7554 or by email  at pmelam@ucdavis.edu.  Tip by John Stumbos, ANR News  & Information  Outreach, (530)  754-9554, jdstumbos@ucdavis.edu Pamela M. Geisel   Farm Advisor  Environmental  Horticulture
Pamela M. Geisel
Farm Advisor
Environmental Horticulture
**************************************
University of California
Cooperative Extension
1720 S. Maple Ave.
Fresno, CA  93702
(559)456-7554
FAX (559) 456-7575
Cell phone (209)907-8468

*************************************

_______________________________________________ Hort-agents mailing list Hort-agents@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizo= na.Edu/mailman/listinfo/hort-agents
--=====================_4578730==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 07 Apr 2000 19:29:10 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 19:29:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sunflowers effect on other plants I have heard (and read) in various places that this is so, but I can find no mention of what plants in particular are effected by sunflowers. Just wanted you to know that I am researching this and if and when I find an answer, I'll let you know. In the meantime, perhaps one of the other subscribers to the list will have the answer and we will all learn something! :>) Sue Bass Master Gardener katt6@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that sunflowers have an alleopathic effect on surrounding plants. What crops do they affect and why? I have sunflowers planted under my mesquite tree but very near to my tomatoes. Is this bad? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From maba@primenet.com Fri, 07 Apr 2000 19:52:40 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Apr 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Brian Anderson maba@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Navel Orange Tree Dear arid_gardener, I am looking for some ideas regarding a navel orange tree which I purchased and had planted by a local nursery on March 22. The tree is about 3 years old and was growing in a 24" box when I purchased it. The nursery folks planted it, and sprinkled some root starter in the hole before setting the tree in. The tree had full foilage, and many blossoms when they planted it, but a few of the leaves were yellowing. I watered it twice daily for four days, when I began to see leaves and blossoms falling off of it. It has now reached the point that there are very few leaves, and most of the blossoms have fallen. Many of the blossoms opened before they fell off. The nursery recommended that I cut back on watering to once a day, which I did. This did not make any difference, the leaves and unopened blossoms continued to fall. I don't see very many new leaves (maybe 12-20) on the tree, and it has about a 2 foot crown. I am afraid I'm going to lose the tree, and would appreciate any help that you could provide to minimize this possibility. Maybe I'm still overwatering, or maybe I'm just expecting too much after only 16 days. Thank you in advance, Brian Anderson Chandler, AZ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 7 Apr 2000 23:43:02 -0700 Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 23:43:02 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: > I understand that sunflowers have an allelopathic effect on surrounding plants. What crops do they affect and why? I have sunflowers planted under my mesquite tree but very near to my tomatoes. Is this bad? > There are occasional threads about this topic on the gardening newsgroups but there does not appear to be a consensus. Many do not believe it to be a problem. But there is said to be evidence that the seed hulls contain an allelopathic substance similar to jugalone found in the true walnut family (juglandaceae) such as the American black walnut and that is not a problem with the plant, just with the seed hulls. Some companion planting guides tell us the 3 sisters CBS group (corn, beans squash) benefit from planting next to sunflowers and potatoes are adversely affected. Potatoes and sunflowers grow during different seasons in the low desert. In my experience it has not been a problem. The shading effect of the sunflower's broad leaves will inhibit growth in many plants by blocking out the sun which may explain some of the adverse effect people have experienced. . But in the low desert many vegetable plants will benefit from the afternoon shade provided by strategically placed sunflower plants. Sorry I could not provide a definitive answer. But hopefully this will help you find the answer. Olin From Sctdlmoyes@aol.com Fri, 7 Apr 2000 21:52:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 21:52:34 -0700 (MST) From: Sctdlmoyes@aol.com Sctdlmoyes@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to know if you can cut back Euryops Daisies? Will they come back? How far can you cut them back without killing them? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Apr 2000 08:08:22 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 08:08:22 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Sunflowers - alleopathic properties This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A91DCAF7BE07014151492059 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit arid_gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: > I understand that sunflowers have an allelopathic effect on surrounding plants. What crops do they affect and why? I have sunflowers planted under my mesquite tree but very near to my tomatoes. Is this bad? > There are occasional threads about this topic on the gardening newsgroups but there does not appear to be a consensus. Many do not believe it to be a problem. But there is said to be evidence that the seed hulls contain an allelopathic substance similar to jugalone found in the true walnut family (juglandaceae) such as the American black walnut and that is not a problem with the plant, just with the seed hulls. Some companion planting guides tell us the 3 sisters CBS group (corn, beans squash) benefit from planting next to sunflowers and potatoes are adversely affected. Potatoes and sunflowers grow during different seasons in the low desert. In my experience it has not been a problem. The shading effect of the sunflower's broad leaves will inhibit growth in many plants by blocking out the sun which may explain some of the adverse effect people have experienced. . But in the low desert many vegetable plants will benefit from the afternoon shade provided by strategically placed sunflower plants. Sorry I could not provide a definitive answer. But hopefully this will help you find the answer. Olin __________________________ --------------A91DCAF7BE07014151492059 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22494 invoked by uid 0); 8 Apr 2000 07:53:32 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (204.147.80.19) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 8 Apr 2000 07:53:32 -0000 Received: (qmail 11258 invoked from network); 8 Apr 2000 07:53:30 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 8 Apr 2000 07:53:30 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (Ag.Arizona.Edu [128.196.42.70]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id AAA17839; Sat, 8 Apr 2000 00:17:41 -0700 (MST) Received: from mtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net (mtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net [204.127.131.52]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id AAA17811 for ; Sat, 8 Apr 2000 00:17:37 -0700 (MST) Received: from netzone ([12.72.32.34]) by mtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net (InterMail vM.4.01.02.39 201-229-119-122) with SMTP id <20000408071702.EAC14374.mtiwmhc27.worldnet.att.net@netzone>; Sat, 8 Apr 2000 07:17:02 +0000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Fri, 7 Apr 2000 23:43:02 -0700 Message-ID: <002601bfa127$a93e6ba0$2220480c@netzone.com> From: "Olin Miller" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: "Arid Gardener List" , katt6@uswest.net Reply-To: "Olin Miller" References: <200004071951.MAA01150@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Organization: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 X-Mailman-Version: 1.0 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 arid_gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: > I understand that sunflowers have an allelopathic effect on surrounding plants. What crops do they affect and why? I have sunflowers planted under my mesquite tree but very near to my tomatoes. Is this bad? > There are occasional threads about this topic on the gardening newsgroups but there does not appear to be a consensus. Many do not believe it to be a problem. But there is said to be evidence that the seed hulls contain an allelopathic substance similar to jugalone found in the true walnut family (juglandaceae) such as the American black walnut and that is not a problem with the plant, just with the seed hulls. Some companion planting guides tell us the 3 sisters CBS group (corn, beans squash) benefit from planting next to sunflowers and potatoes are adversely affected. Potatoes and sunflowers grow during different seasons in the low desert. In my experience it has not been a problem. The shading effect of the sunflower's broad leaves will inhibit growth in many plants by blocking out the sun which may explain some of the adverse effect people have experienced. . But in the low desert many vegetable plants will benefit from the afternoon shade provided by strategically placed sunflower plants. Sorry I could not provide a definitive answer. But hopefully this will help you find the answer. Olin _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - --------------A91DCAF7BE07014151492059-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Apr 2000 08:14:06 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 08:14:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Euryops Yes you can prune Euryops. The information I have from the Sunset Western Gardening Book says to prune after flowering in June. It does not state how harshly you can prune them, nor does a Taylors guide I have. The general rule of thumb for pruning is not to take more than one-third of the plant in a pruning. Another Master Gardener may have further info on this plant as to whether you can prune it more aggressively. Sue Bass Master Gardener Sctdlmoyes@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I want to know if you can cut back Euryops > Daisies? Will they come back? How far can > you cut them back without killing them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lcolgan@goodnet.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:53:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:53:10 -0700 (MST) From: lcolgan@goodnet.com lcolgan@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was wondering what I should do to my cilantro and dill plant that has started to flower. How should I trim it? I have enjoyed the plant and used a lot of the herbs. I have even dried some dill. I would like to keep the plant producing? How can I keep the plant from producing? From rgilli9898@aol.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 09:18:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 09:18:31 -0700 (MST) From: rgilli9898@aol.com rgilli9898@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can we grow an Avocado Tree in Phoenix? And if so what would it take? Thank you, Keela From mckernan@ctaz.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 10:13:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 10:13:04 -0700 (MST) From: mckernan@ctaz.com mckernan@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have 3 dwraf citus trees - planted 2 yrs ago. 1 Grapefruit, 1 Lemon, 1 Orange. All look health and have produced some fruit..1 grapftuit, 4 lemons but no oranges. Oranges set fruit (now) but seem to start falling from tree for no reason..a little wind but not hard enough to make fruit fall. What can I do to remedy problem. Thank you From lsaxon@inficad.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:49:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:49:21 -0700 (MST) From: lsaxon@inficad.com lsaxon@inficad.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there anything to use to help keep grass from growing in my flower beds. Also is there any way to get rid of the grass growing in flower beds besides pulling it out. I love the lilac bushes growing back east. There is a plant here that looks very close to te lilac bush. Do you know the name of it. From LSOWACKE@cs.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:42:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 13:42:23 -0700 (MST) From: LSOWACKE@cs.com LSOWACKE@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What plants are best for full sun, tropical look and for around the pool? From USAFRESV@AOL.Com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 09:59:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 09:59:21 -0700 (MST) From: USAFRESV@AOL.Com USAFRESV@AOL.Com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live out by Avondale, is it to late to plant sweet corn already? Thank you, you have a great site. Mrs. McPherson From nelsbells@prodigy.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 15:58:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 15:58:18 -0700 (MST) From: nelsbells@prodigy.com nelsbells@prodigy.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband is very unsucessfully trying to gro strawberries and tomatoes....Poor guy, it seems like everything he trys fails. Can you recommend a book or someone for him to talk to. Thanking you in advance. Nel Schroeder From obeles@gateway.net Sat, 8 Apr 2000 17:05:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 17:05:27 -0700 (MST) From: obeles@gateway.net obeles@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dear Arid Gardener, My tomato plants are producing lots of blossoms, but the blossoms are falling off the plant before they can set any fruit. What's going on?? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:43:07 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:43:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Strawberry/Tomato Reference Question from Home-Hort WWW page Best books: IMO): 1. Brookbank's "Desert Gardening" has excellent sections for both. 2. Bradley, Cromell, Guy, "Desert Gardening for Beginners". This a general gardening guide and may be the best place to begin. See http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm for more info about this book. 3. The "Arizona Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/tomatoes.html has lots of good information about growing tomatoes but it isn't really specific to growing tomatoes in the low desert, i.e., it is pretty generic and applies across the US. Should note that neither strawberries nor tomatoes are particularly well suited to our low desert climate, but many of us try to grow them anyway with varying degrees of success which can vary from year to year depending on climate factors for a particular year. ============================================== ---- Original Message -----From: > My husband is very unsucessfully trying to gro strawberries and tomatoes....Poor guy, it seems like everything he trys fails. Can you recommend a book or someone for him to talk to. Thanking you in advance. Nel Schroeder From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:29:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:29:36 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need info on lobelia, gazania and euryops:water, feeding, sun or shade,soil. Thank you, From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:56:34 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 20:56:34 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sweetcorn Pl;anting Date Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: > I live out by Avondale, is it to late to plant sweet corn already? >... I would say it is possible but a bit marginal. The time-to-ripen is based on measurements of accumulated heat units and, with the warmer weather, the time will shorter than the seed packet estimate which is usually based on the time required to accumulate the required heat units at the location where the seed corn was grown. The effect would be to ripen before the ears are fully developed. I have better success with corn planted in late summer for fail production. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for recommended planting dates in the low desert. See also http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html for growing tips. Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 8 Apr 2000 21:44:33 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2000 21:44:33 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato Growing Secrets Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: > What is the secret of growing tomatoes here in the > east valley? Seems no matter what I try, they just > won't produce fruit or do anything but look like > overgrown weeds. Have tried mulch, fertilizer, > water, no water, screening, sticky traps, sprays for > bugs and nothing works. Must be a desert secret! ====================== I haven't seen a response to this post. I'm in the northwest valley but I don't believe our situation is very different. From your post, it appears the plants are growing okay (like overgrown weeds) but you are not getting any fruit. The following information is from my personal experience from gardening here since 1966. Other gardeners often report different experiences. Due to our short growing season, tomatoes are not very well suited to our low desert climate but they can be grown successfully. The ones that perform best are the thick-skinned processing types (most are determinate types) which tend to be more resistant to heat. Spring tomatoes should be started from seed at or before New years Day and planted out in late February. Fruit set is best when daytime temperatures are between 55 and 90 deg. F. Above 95 degrees, there are very few types that set fruit but the blossoms which have set will mature and yield but may need protection from the sun. Small to medium fruited, short season determinate types which provide a single crop all ripening at or near the same time provide the best yields. Cherry types, either determinate or indeterminate, are also more heat resistant and have a better chance of ripening. Indeterminate types bear during the entire growing season which is pretty long in more temperate climates but is very short here. They will set early fruit and the small fruited types may bear well but the large fruited types favored by most gardeners are usually not very productive. As to fertilizer, apply one with a high phosphorous content (2nd number in the NPK ratio). Too much nitrogen results in lots of nice green foliage but little fruit. Tomatoes do not have many insect pests here. There may be aphids, easily controlled, during the cooler weather. Whiteflies are often seen around the plants but I have not needed to control them. Hornworms can ruin a plant within a few days. Some people use Bt but picking them off and feeding them to the birds works pretty well. VF wilts are and curly top virus are often a problem. Control methods vary. Olin From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:25:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:25:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cilantro and Dill Both cilantro and dill produce for one season here. You can try to save some of the herbs now, although when flowering the taste is not the best. Drying is an option, but I prefer to freeze them for better flavor, as well as other winter annual herbs like the parsleys. After rinsing, I put them on a cookie sheet to flash-freeze; once frozen I put them in a plastic ziploc. In this way they don't all clump together. You could try to save some seeds, but if these were hybrids, you might not get the same plant. As the temps fall next autumn, plant your winter herb these or purchased seeds again. Linda Guy Master Gardener lcolgan@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I was wondering what I should do to my cilantro and dill plant that has started to flower. How should I trim it? I have enjoyed the plant and used a lot of the herbs. I have even dried some dill. I would like to keep the plant producing? How can I keep the plant from producing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:31:18 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:31:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Navel Orange Tree - Irrigation Mr. Anderson, You nursery was correct in its assessment that you watering practices could be drowning the tree roots. Plus you make it more susceptible to the fungal diseases that attack citrus. We have an excellent publication online that deals with the watering requirements for citrus at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf You should be watering your newly planted citrus at 2-3day intervals, increasing the timing to 3-5 days in another month. See the chart on page 3. Once your watering practices are shored up, you should expect some fruit drop at this time of year which is the tree's normal thinning process. Linda Guy Master Gardener Brian Anderson wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear arid_gardener, > > I am looking for some ideas regarding a navel orange tree which I > purchased and had planted by a local nursery on March 22. The tree is > about 3 years old and was growing in a 24" box when I purchased it. The > nursery folks planted it, and sprinkled > some root starter in the hole before setting the tree in. The tree had > full foilage, and many blossoms when they planted it, but a few of the > leaves were yellowing. > > I watered it twice daily for four days, when I began to see leaves and > blossoms falling off of it. It has now reached the point that there are > very few leaves, and most of the blossoms have fallen. Many of the > blossoms opened before they fell off. The nursery recommended that I cut > back on watering to once a day, which I did. This did not make any > difference, the leaves and unopened blossoms continued to fall. > > I don't see very many new leaves (maybe 12-20) on the tree, and it has > about a > 2 foot crown. I am afraid I'm going to lose the tree, and would > appreciate any help that you could provide to minimize this possibility. > Maybe I'm still overwatering, or maybe I'm just expecting too much after > only 16 days. > > Thank you in advance, > > Brian Anderson > Chandler, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:48:00 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 08:48:00 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bee Removal It's hard to know what to recommend, not knowing the bees that were removed. Pyrethrin is a popular plant-derived product, while Sevin is inorganic. Perhaps you noticed the column in the Saturday Republic on Carpenter bees which discusses the removal of the eggs that are left behind to hatch if only the colony is removed, hence the dusting. All colonies should be removed by a licensed professional due to the risk of swarms, particularly due to the potential for Africanized honeybees. Your other option would be to call a beekeeper to have the colony moved. There is usually no reason to deal with solitary bees, nor carpenter bees, unless nesting in and destroying wood in the home. We have several fact sheets on bees, MC 11 [solitary bees], MC 12 [carpenter bees] and MC 63 [africanized honey bees]. To order, go to http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm or check out your local library, reference section 635, and see if they don't have a binder full of our home horticulture publications for you to read. Linda Guy Master Gardener tsozuna@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > This past Friday we had to exterminate a > bee colony (professionally) from our patio. > It was estimated that there were approx. > 1500-2500 bees which were within the framing > of the house. They used PT 565 XLO (Pyrethrin) > and Residual Pest Dust (5% Sevin). > > To say the least, I am feeling very guilty > that some other method of removal could not > be done -- I had thought that there was a > shortage of bees. My question: Is there a > less "violent" way to remove bees (no visible > hive was evident unless it was within the > framing of the house)? We notice that a small > number of bees continue to congregate in the > same area and I don't want to spray them with > Raid or call the AAA Africanized Bee Removal > Specialists again. > > I do realize that they may be Africanized -- > per AAA ABRS, Honey Bees make their hives in > May -- but that does nothing to appease my > feelings of guilt. Thank you! Theresa > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Apr 2000 09:01:51 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 09:01:51 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Turf Irrigation Paul: Thanks for your patience in waiting for a reply to your question. Here is a response to a similar question given by a fellow Master Gardener: "Set out several small cans ( I use tuna fish cans ) on your lawn and run your sprinklers a known amount of time ie: 15 minutes and measure the amount of water in each one, then average the amount of water in all the cans." This will tell you how many inches of water are being applied to your lawn. For more information on irrigation, please see the Irrigation section in the on line Master Gardener Manual. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html and check out the section called Irrigation System Evaluation and Scheduling. This should provide some useful information for you. When you have some time, please feel free to browse our web site if you have never done so. We have an archive of gardening questions asked and you can find it under the heading of "Ask A Question". There is also a section called "Timely Tips" which offers monthly suggestions, as well as links to various gardening information sites. Our web site can be accessed at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Sue Bass Master Gardener retiredplc@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Grass Watering Schedules - the schedules talk to inches per week. We have 7 day - 24 hour timers that control frequency and duration of "ON". Please, is there a 'ideal' frequency of watering? For example, everyday, every other day, etc. in order to 'put down' the inches per week? > > Deep watering vs. shallow watering? > > We have rye in winter & bemuda in the summer. > > Thank you, > > Paul Cote > Westbrook Village (acres of grass) > Peoria, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ebenware@juno.com Sun, 9 Apr 2000 10:02:53 -0700 Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 10:02:53 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Corn Planting Dates Mrs. PcPherson, The Cooperative Extension guidance for Maricopa County, "Vegetable Planting Calendar for the Low Desert," Fact Sheet MC84, indicates planting corn is to be done from February 15th to March 31st *and* from July 15 to August 31st. Today may be OK, and it may be too late, depending upon the weather. If this heat does not relent, it will be too hot for the corn to produce viable pollen and although you may get stalk and ears, you may not get kernels. You can either give it a try now, with this knowledge (sometimes it warms the heart just to see green growth) or if you really are intent on the product, I'd wait until the July/Aug planting season, as Mr. Miller indicates below. Edna Benware Maricopa County Master Gardener Olin Miller had already replied: I would say it is possible but a bit marginal. The time-to-ripen is based on measurements of accumulated heat units and, with the warmer weather, the time will shorter than the seed packet estimate which is usually based on the time required to accumulate the required heat units at the location where the seed corn was grown. The effect would be to ripen before the ears are fully developed. I have better success with corn planted in late summer for fail production. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for recommended planting dates in the low desert. See also http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html for growing tips. Olin On Sat, 8 Apr 2000 09:59:21 -0700 (MST) USAFRESV@AOL.Com writes: > arid_gardener > I live out by Avondale, is it to late to plant sweet corn already? > Thank you, you have a great site. > Mrs. McPherson > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:13:17 EDT Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:13:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Grass in flower beds A herbicide called Grass Be Gone can be used as an over the top spray over most shrubs and many flowers to kill grass. Be sure to read the label to be sure that the chemical will not be toxic to your flowers. The chemical in the herbicide is Flazifop in the event you cant find Grass be Gone. If your flowers are annuals, after you remove the flowers for a seasonal change from winter to summer annuals you could spray the grass with a herbicide such as Roundup. There is a plant called lilac vine ( Hardenbergia violacea ) that can be grown here, however it is a vine not a bush. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Apr 2000 21:13:06 EDT Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 21:13:06 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus, time to bear fruit Citrus are not suposed to bear fruit until they are three to four years old. The fruit drop that you are seeing now is just natures way of ridding the tree of fruit that the tree is not strong enough to handle, so what you are seeing now is normal. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 10 Apr 2000 06:41:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 06:41:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Native Shrub Resembling Lilac I believe the plant you seek is a buddleia, either b. alternifolia or b. davidii, the latter is fragrant. They are also known as 'butterfly bush' so expect more than a few to visit your yard. These are low-water use plants and I understand that they perform so much better than certain strains of the traditional lilac that can grow in certain local conditions [cooler corners of yard, eg] and with a lot of water. Linda Guy Master Gardener lsaxon@inficad.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there anything to use to help keep grass from growing in my flower beds. > > Also is there any way to get rid of the grass growing in flower beds besides pulling it out. > > I love the lilac bushes growing back east. There is a plant here that looks very close to te lilac bush. Do you know the name of it. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 07:50:58 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 07:50:58 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Turf Irrigation Paul: I guess I misunderstood your previous note. About once every three days is best for most lawns. Since you have already done the measuring of the water with cans, you know the rate of delivery from your sprinkers. Even in the hot summer months most lawns do not need to be watered every day. Do you take a daily newspaper? If so, there is a Lawn-Watering guide that appears, usually in the weather section (at least it does in the Republic). It will tell you each day how much water needs to be applied to your lawn if it was last watered three days ago. For instance, in yesterday's paper it read, .55 inches is needed for Bermuda Grass if last watered 3 days ago. The lawn's water requirements vary throughout the year due to temperature, sunlight, and wind (just a few of the factors). If you do not take a daily newspaper, you can get the above information by calling 1-800-537-3578 which gives a recorded message of the daily water requirement. Once you know your rate of delivery and the water requirement in inches, you can use the handy conversion chart found at: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG. It will give you the amount of time you need to water in minutes. I would use that information on the Phoenix Water Services Department page as the documentation you requested. Again, thank you for your patience. Sue Bass Master Gardener retiredplc@aol.com wrote: > Hi Sue, Thanks for the response. > > I have already done the measuring and know how much and how fast, the water > is delivered to the lawn. > > Please review my original email and questions. > > For example, if 1.5" a week is required - what is the ideal method to deliver > the 1.5"? > > .21 inches per day for 7 days = 1.5" > > or > > 1.5" all in one day? > > or > > some other combination that will total 1.5" per week. > > I'm looking for the ideal frequency - how many times per week to deliver the > 1.5". > > I'm also looking for documentation that talks to this so that I may argue > with my landscaper and do it with an authoritative source. > > Thank you, > > Paul From skramcorp@juno.com Sun, 9 Apr 2000 12:43:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 12:43:47 -0700 (MST) From: skramcorp@juno.com skramcorp@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The Saguaro in our front yard is developing small black splits and holes in many places around the top. Also, I am finding a lot of black, sooty material all around on the ground. What is causing this and what should I do about it? From weimeraa@aol.com Sun, 9 Apr 2000 16:22:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 16:22:54 -0700 (MST) From: weimeraa@aol.com weimeraa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to make cuttings from my rosemary bush and try to make new plants. Do you have any suggestions? Do I use only this spring's growth, or should I cut back to a woody stem? Thank you. From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:57:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 14:57:45 -0700 (MST) From: Aaryn Olsson aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Nutgrass herbicide (fwd) ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 09:56:32 -0700 From: Mark Habermann To: lab@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Nutgrass herbicide I am having a problem with nutgrass (crabgrass) invading my rock and Bermuda lawn. Can you suggest a herbicide that will eliminate it without killing the Bermuda? Someone who has tiff recommended "manage" but I am unsure. Thanks. Mark Habermann Avondale, AZ From norrisha@aol.com Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:37:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:37:52 -0700 (MST) From: norrisha@aol.com norrisha@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need a recipe for pouring down mole holes so that they leave my yard forever. I had one that had castor oil and liquid dishwaasing soap that you blended in a blender. Does anybody know the proportions for this, or even better a sure fire way to discourage their digging in my yard? From janstewcrooks@home.com Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:31:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 12:31:40 -0700 (MST) From: janstewcrooks@home.com janstewcrooks@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of the three orange trees we have in our back yard has refused to respond to the standard treatment we have given all our trees. The tree has over the past three years produced less and less fruit. This year it is losing most of its leaves even though there are some buds and new beginning fruit. There are green branches but few leaves on them. HELP!!! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Apr 2000 18:19:30 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 18:19:30 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Nutgrass herbicide (fwd) Mark, I've used Manage with some sucess, but it will take more than one application. Be sure to follow the directions on the label. Good luck. Rod From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:54:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:54:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Plants to Use Near Swimming Pools A good source of information regarding the best plants to use near swimming pools can be found in the Sunset Western Garden Book. You may be able to find a copy in the local library. It also can be purchased at most Home Centers and Nurseries in the area, as well as book stores. Page 88 in the book is dedicated to this subject. There are some nice photos too. Sue Bass Master Gardener LSOWACKE@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What plants are best for full sun, tropical look and for around the pool? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:13:30 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:13:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Care of Lobelia, Gazania and Euryops Lobelia is a summer annual that likes sun to partial shade and prefers moist, rich soil. From my own experience they seem to do better with full sun to partial shade in the morning and afternoon shade during the hottest days. Now this is for the blue, annual varieties seen in nurseries now. According to the Sunset Western Garden book, there is a perennial that is a Mexican native that has open clusters of tubular, orange red flowers. If this is what you have, the book says that once established it can withstand considerable aridity and neglect. I have no experience with this plant. With the annuals I have occasionally given them a boost with some Miracle Grow when I have watered, but that is about it. Gazanias are a tough, South African plant that like full sun and occasional dry-season waterings. They grow well in almost any soil and you can feed them once in the spring with slow-acting fertilizer. They are in their peak bloom time right now, which runs from late Spring to Early summer, but will bloom intermittently throughout the year. Euryops is another plant native to South Africa. They tend to bloom heaviest in May and June. You can prune them in June after flowering. They thrive in full sun and require little water once established. I have no information on fertilizing them. Maybe an occasional fertilization as with the gazanias above, but I wouldn't over do it. They are extremely tolerant of our climate and soils here. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I need info on lobelia, gazania and euryops:water, feeding, sun or shade,soil. > > Thank you, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:48:17 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 15:48:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Avocado Trees In Phoenix Keela: Below is a response given in the recent past to another gardener asking about growing avocado here. Here is the response: Avocados are a subtropical fruit so they prefer more alkaline soils, higher humidity, and less freezing than we can offer here in the Low Desert. However, there are Master Gardeners in Phoenix, AZ growing avocados. You may want to check with folks at the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Association, see their website: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Keela: The gardeners who are members of the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers will definitely be your best bet for growing suggestions. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener rgilli9898@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can we grow an Avocado Tree in Phoenix? And if so what would it take? > Thank you, > Keela > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:35:02 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 16:35:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Moles Unfortunately, I do not have the recipe you are looking for. Moles are insect eaters and are inadvertently digging up your garden while searching out grubs and worms. According to the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, using such folk remedies as chewing gum, castor beans or a so-called gopher plant will not remove moles. They suggest wire barriers or trapping. Trapping being their recommended method of removal. We have a section on Vertebrate Pests in the on line Master Gardener Manual which you can view at the page below: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener norrisha@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I need a recipe for pouring down mole holes so that they leave my yard forever. I had one that had castor oil and liquid dishwaasing soap that you blended in a blender. Does anybody know the proportions for this, or even better a sure fire way to discourage their digging in my yard? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From d.a.heap@worldnet.att.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 17:01:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 17:01:29 -0700 (MST) From: d.a.heap@worldnet.att.net d.a.heap@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I am a very new gardener. I have planted four variedties of tomatoes. Early Girl, First Lady, Rutgers Select and Yellow Pear. The plants are beautiful and loaded with blossoms. The problem is they are not setting fruit. My father has instructed me not to water for a few days and that has resulted in two small tomatoes on 16 plants. I have also been told that there is a product that you spray on the plant to improve the "setting" of the tomatoes. Is there such a thing? If so what is it and where can I find it? Thank you very much, Denise Heap From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 21:01:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 21:01:15 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato Pollination Question from Home-Hort WWW page There are products in spray cans available at garden centers which are said to help with fruit set early in the season when temperatures are lower but I am not aware of any that work at our current high temperatures. Tomatoes are self-pollinating and it helps to gently shake the plant early in the morning when the blossoms are fresh - do this several times each week. It is difficult to say how much or how frequently to irrigate because it depends on how well your soil's water holding capacity, plant exposure to sun and wind, exposure, mulch around plants and other factors. .Overwatering can result in too much vegetative growth. Right now I water mine 2 times per week but will need to increase that when the temps go back into the 90s. If the plants are wilted early in the morning, you are not watering enough. But if they appear wilted only during the heat of the day and not in the morning, you are okay with watering. If the soil is dry an inch or so below the surface, you need to water. When plants are stressed, they tend go to seed or form fruit to try to reproduce. Withholding too much water could overstress the plant and result in permanent damage. Early Girl is often the first to set fruit but starts off slowly. Yellow Pear is an indeterminate 4-foot bush with small fruit which may be difficult to see at first. Rutgers is a mid to late season determinate bush and bears fruit weeks later than the others. I am not familiar with First Lady but the name suggests it's also an early type. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 5:01 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > Hi, I am a very new gardener. I have planted four variedties of tomatoes. Early Girl, First Lady, Rutgers Select and Yellow Pear. The plants are beautiful and loaded with blossoms. The problem is they are not setting fruit. My father has instructed me not to water for a few days and that has resulted in two small tomatoes on 16 plants. I have also been told that there is a product that you spray on the plant to improve the "setting" of the tomatoes. Is there such a thing? If so what is it and where can I find it? From obeles@gateway.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 21:33:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 21:33:51 -0700 (MST) From: obeles@gateway.net obeles@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dear Arid Gardener, Is this the season to plant carrots? If so, can they be grown in a moderately deep container on a patio that receives direct sun only part of the day? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 10 Apr 2000 22:44:08 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 22:44:08 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: When to Plant Carrots Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: > arid_gardener > Dear Arid Gardener, > Is this the season to plant carrots? If so, can they be grown in a moderately deep container on a patio that receives direct sun only part of the day? The usual recommendation is to plant from August through April but the cooler period from about mid September through mid March is best. With our above normal temps at this time, it is a bit of a gamble. You may just get tops . Refer to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a low desert vegetable planting calendar. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:37:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:37:22 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Rose Spacing I'm laying out my irrigation lines for a row of roses I plan on planting. What is the spacing for roses? I plan to plant the typical ones, not minitures or big ones. Should I use 1 emitter per plant, 2 emitters, or some type of mini sprinkler? How many gallons a day does a rose need durring the summer and winter? I've never grown roses before. - Jim From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:37:52 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:37:52 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rooting Rosemary Cuttings In my opinion, your efforts will be more successful with newer growth. One source suggests taking 4" cuttings in late spring or autumn, trimming off the upper and lower leaves and placing the cuttings in a moist mixture of 2 parts sand and 1 part peat moss. I have simply taken a sutting, trimmed off a few bottom leaves, dipped it in a rooting compound like Rootone, and put in in my container soil (equal parts potting soil, peat, and pumice). It's been years since I've propogated rosemary this way, however. Usually the lower branches start developing roots where they touch the ground. I simply cut off the stem and move the 'transplant' (stem, roots and dirt) elsewhere in the yard or give it to friends. You can accomplish the same thing by scarifying the bottom of a lower stem, securing it firmly to the soil with a wire peg and waiting for the roots to form. One that I planted this way 2 years ago is 4' around and has been heavily pruned several times. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener weimeraa@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to make cuttings from my rosemary bush and try to make new plants. Do you have any suggestions? Do I use only this spring's growth, or should I cut back to a woody stem? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:27:32 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:27:32 -0700 From: Patti Baciewicz pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: >Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2000 19:25:26 -0700 (PDT) >From: Scott Rusch >To: pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >I have a quick question and I was wondering if you >could direct me. I was wondering if you knew which >desert plant had the longest roots? > >If you could help out at all, that would be great. > >Thanks, >Scott Rusch > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://im.yahoo.com > From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:49:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:49:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus Yellowing Mrs. Steinman, I looked through the Sunset Western Garden Book on your behalf, since I've no personal experience with hibiscus and I noticed that your question has been around some time. The plants require excellent drainage as they are susceptible to root rot. Amendments to open up our soils which tend to be compacted clay would be important. Plants are recommended to be fed monthly [twice monthly if in a container], from April to early September. Frequent, deep waterings are necessary. One third of old wood should be pruned out in spring to keep matrue plants growing and blooming vigorously. As these are frost-tender you need to wait until late March before doing so. Pinching out tips of stems in spring and summer increases flower production. I saw no mention of the plant's need for acidic conditions [like a camellia or gardenia, e.g.]. Perhaps Muracid is not the best choice of fertilizer; I'm not familiar with the product. These plants are VERY susceptible to aphids. Might this be your problem? Diagnosis and treatment is discussed in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener donnvelma@dellnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Re: Hibiscus plant. Some of the leaves are turning yellow. Several weeks ago Muracid was applied per label instructions. Also just how much water and sunlight does this plant need? Thank you. Velma Steinman > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:55:48 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:55:48 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro - Bacterial Necrosis Your description sounds like a condition called Bacterial Necrosis which is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm If the spots are small, you can probably treat and save the plant. If large, or impacting an arm that could fall, removal will be necessary. Avoid any desire to water the plant more as this will worsen the condition. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener skramcorp@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > The Saguaro in our front yard is developing small black splits and holes in many places around the top. Also, I am finding a lot of black, sooty material all around on the ground. What is causing this and what should I do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:58:11 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 08:58:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Poolside Landscaping Another good resource is our own publication 'Plants for Poolside Landscapes' available at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf Linda Guy, Master Gardener LSOWACKE@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What plants are best for full sun, tropical look and for around the pool? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:10:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 09:10:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Woodpeckers and Saguaros Mike, Information in Judy Mielke's book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes indicates that certain woodpeckers and flickers make nesting holes in the saguaro and other birds make take up residence after the original occupants move on. This is a natural process, generally speaking, with problems arising in urban areas where there are fewer saguaros hence these are impacted more heavily by the bird population. Flickers' holes were said to be more potentially harmful, because they disturbed the water-transport tissues in the upper part of the plant. Commercial replicas of snakes or owls are useless, but this books suggests putting in a replica of either a woodpecker or flicker since the birds are so territorial. This may [I stress may] be driven away by the imposter. You could also wedge a piece of hardware cloth into the opening. Managing woodpeckers is also discussed in a UA bulletin at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/woodpkr.htm Also, the Desert Botanical Garden has a phone hotline M-F 10 - 11:30 am 480-941-1225. They may have some other ideas. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener mike@advanced-water.com wrote: > arid_gardener > do woodpeckers normally nest in saguaros? > or are their holes made to access insects > within? i have three pairs of woodpeckers > (three species) pecking large holes in one > of the giant saguaros on my property in > Scottsdale, I am concerned that this may > indicate an infestation requiring treatment > to save this plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives -