From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 16:52:26 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 09:52:26 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Rice [for the birds!] I wish this was my experience...it would sure be a great way to manage the abundance of pigeons in our neighborhood!!!!! Actually the experts are NOT death on the practice of throwing rice. Indeed, several indicate it is a myth/urban legend. And remember, I'm not talking about doing so regularly, but just tossing pest-laden products. I particularly liked one person's comment that his mom used to tell him the same thing about eating uncooked macaroni, and he's still around! Wildbirds regularly glean southern rice fields, too. Check out the following for more... http://www.kalmbach.com/birders/askbirders/askbirders.html http://www.snopes.com/weddings/horrors/birdrice.htm Thanks for the reply, I had a good time with this one. Heck, I even found designer rices to toss.... I particularly enjoyed the suggestion that one release butterflies or doves for a novel approach to the wedding's finale. Too bad, I'm already hitched. Linda Guy Master Gardener Mapgoddess@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lucy@cyberback.com Tue Aug 1 16:14:08 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 09:14:08 -0700 (MST) From: lucy@cyberback.com lucy@cyberback.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been a master gardener in Arkansas for three years. Am I automatically going to be a master gardener in Az, or am I expected to go through all the training? From emardick@brg.com Tue Aug 1 17:41:51 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 10:41:51 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] emails Why am I receiving emails dated before August 1 today (August 1)? From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Aug 1 17:11:59 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 10:11:59 -0700 (MST) From: Aaryn Olsson aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Digest problems Dear arid_gardener list subscriber, I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please send me one copy of the message. Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. Sincerely, Aaryn Olsson mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Aug 1 18:06:22 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 11:06:22 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [AG] Digest problems That is not the case. I am not a digest user. Although I did not receive 150 as another user did, I did receive 4 or 5 copies of the same emails. It seems to have stopped now though. alan Aaryn Olsson wrote: > arid_gardenerDear arid_gardener list subscriber, > > I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I > think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if > that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the > duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. > > In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken > action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears > to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in > error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please > send me one copy of the message. > > Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. > > Sincerely, > Aaryn Olsson > mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From tkotanch@hotmail.com Tue Aug 1 19:09:04 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tkotanch@hotmail.com tkotanch@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am a definate novice when it comes to planting in Arizona. But I have to ask a stupid question. How often should I water plants in the summer. I've gotten answers from twice a day to every other day. I have planted bogenvelias, lantana, Mexican primrose, etc. Also, how can I tell if I'm overwatering or not watering enough? Please help! Tom From EnvConnections@yahoo.com Tue Aug 1 20:59:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 13:59:49 -0700 (MST) From: EnvConnections@yahoo.com EnvConnections@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have established roses on the east side behind a 3 foot patio wall. They look just awful. I have NOT mulched this year because of a horrible roach problem in our yard. Could I cut the roses back now, below the wall? What else can I do? From marybuck@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 23:19:51 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:19:51 -0700 (MST) From: marybuck@uswest.net marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am wondering why I have received over 400 messages from aridgardener on my e-mail today.This has really tied up my e-mail. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:10 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Unknowm tree dying Your tree is probably dying because it is not getting enough water. Since I don't know what the tree is I can't give you exact guidelines, I can however give you approximations that will help keep the tree alive unless it is too far gone now. Right away place a hose under that tree that is set to run slow and leave it all night. Then adjust your time clock to water that tree and any other trees you have once a week and apply enough water to penetrate to a depth of 3 feet plus. You can determine the depth by using a steel bar, after irrigating the bar will penetrate the soil easily to the depth you have watered. As the weather cools increase the time between irrigations until winter when you should be watering trees about once a month. Checkout this website on watering trees and plants at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Insects and disease seldom attack healthy trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:19 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:19 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bottletrees It is very common for the limbs especially the lower limbs on a bottle tree to grow horizontally, so nothing to worry about. I think that you gave me a clue to the reason that one bottle tree does well while an adjoining one does not do well and that clue is that you have caliche in your yard. If you planted the trees you probably know whether or not there was caliche in the ground where the poor tree is planted. If the caliche is shallow there may not be enough depth for a good root foundatiion, or the caliche could retain water in a basin where the roots are, and the Bottle Tree does not like wet feet.. The planting hole could contain construction debris. A leaking gas main could cause severe problems. Has there been any weed killer used nearby? Have the trees been over pruned? Have all the trees received the same amount of water? Is the soil uniform through out the yard? Do you have much sandy soil? The bottle tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot,and this is the time of year to be on the lookout for it. These are a few of the many things that could cause problems. I would be concerned about your irrigation interval of once a month in the summer if you live in the low desert. This has been a really hot year, and people are loosing lots of trees . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:18 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:15 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer Rose care Your questions are similiar to dozens of others who are attempting to grow roses in the low desert. Do not prune anything off your roses except the spent blooms until you do tour fall pruning in September. I've copied my responce to other persons and hope that is helpful to you. What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 01:46:54 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 18:46:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: arid e-mail list --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer: No, this is not normal. There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ. We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected. If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus. Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list. In general its a great list and great place to learn and share gardening info. Sue Bass Master Gardener Listserve Manager J Nabors wrote: > I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. > Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am > new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a > day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please > inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer:
No, this is not normal.  There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ.  We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected.   If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus.  Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list.  In general its a great list and  great place to learn and share gardening info.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Listserve Manager

J Nabors wrote:

I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors
--------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:16:02 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:16:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit More on the topic of rice [which is after all the seed of its particular plant] for our feathered friends. Linda --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 5374 invoked by uid 0); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (204.147.80.26) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: (qmail 3678 invoked from network); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail.birdwatchersdigest.com (209.51.216.60) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from [192.168.18.20] [206.222.4.41] by mail.birdwatchersdigest.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-5.05) id ABE89D8B026A; Tue, 01 Aug 2000 14:50:16 -0400 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 14:50:27 -0400 Message-Id: From: "Bill Thompson, III" To: "Linda Guy by way of Bird Watcher's Digest" Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: editor@mail.birdwatchersdigest.com In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >How harmful is it to occasionally disperse some of these products [rice, >couscous packages] to the neighboring birds? I'm in the Phoenix metro >area, and from time to time I will dump the contents of a >weevil-infested box out for the birds. Pigeons and dove, rarely quail, >but mostly urban songbirds and pigeons. This is hardly a regular >practice. Thanks for your response. Not harmful at all. Don't worry about it. Bill T. -- Bill Thompson, III Editor Bird Watcher's Digest http://www.birdwatchersdigest.com P.O. Box 110 Marietta, OH 45750 USA 1-800-879-2473 --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59-- From marybuck@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 00:26:34 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 17:26:34 -0700 From: mary marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs HELP! I have recieved over 600 copies of this news letter. I don't know if someone there is playing a joke or if something is wrong with your server. Hopefully it's not a virus of somesort. They just don't stop coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 6:26 PM Subject: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs > arid_gardenerSend Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > arid_gardener digest > > Today's Topics: > > 1. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 2. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 4. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (fscapellit@mindspring.com) > 6. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bonnford@amug.org) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (archsoul@home.com) > 8. Fwd: (Marikelly Block) > 9. YUCCA (Sue Hakala) > 10. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 11. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 13. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

ont > size=3D3 color=3Dred face=3D"Bradley Hand ITC"> style=3D'font-size:12.0pt; > mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Bradley Hand = > ITC";color:red'>Ursula > Miller, Peoria

> >

color=3Dblack> !supportEmptyParas]>  color=3Dblack> style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><= > /p> > >

> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:24:57 -0700 (MST) > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I sent a message to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu........but never received an answer. Is anybody there? > > Please help me. > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:28:42 -0700 (MST) > From: bonnford@amug.org > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Night-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:24:41 -0700 (MST) > From: archsoul@home.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Are all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:20:19 -0700 > To: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: Marikelly Block > Subject: [AG] Fwd: > > Can anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Sue Hakala" > To: "ARCHIVES" > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:16:33 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960" > Subject: [AG] YUCCA > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with > your yucca. If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most plants = > aren't > looking their best right about now. The extreme heat and lack of rain = > has > seriously stressed many plants. It might be that your plant is = > sunburned. > If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place somehow. It does > sound stressed. If you haven't been watering, I would suggest a slow, = > deep > watering. I use an "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter = > of > the plant. This is a black hose made from recycled tires available at > places like WalMart, Target, etc. I water for 3-4 hours very slowly. = > The > water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches. Check this by pushing a = > metal > rod/long screwdriver or something into the ground. If the water doesn't = > get > to this depth, the roots can't get at it. So long and slow is the way = > to > go. I water my plants the first of the month, so I don't forget, in = > June, > July, August, and September assuming that we haven't had enough rain. = > Don't water more than this as the soil needs to dry out thoroughly = > between waterings or your plant may start to rot from too much moisture. = > Good luck! > -----Original Message----- > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >arid_gardener > >Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 > inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. > > > >What is my problem?? > > > >We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on > the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from = > them. > > > >Thank you. > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >Archives - > > > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong = > > with
your yucca.  If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most = > plants=20 > aren't
looking their best right about now.  The extreme heat and = > lack of=20 > rain has
seriously stressed many plants.  It might be that your = > plant is=20 > sunburned.
If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place=20 > somehow.  It does
sound stressed.   If you haven't = > been=20 > watering, I would suggest a slow, deep
watering.  I use an=20 > "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter of
the = > > plant.  This is a black hose made from recycled tires available=20 > at
places like WalMart, Target, etc.  I water for 3-4 hours very = > > slowly.  The
water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches.  = > Check=20 > this by pushing a metal
rod/long screwdriver or something into the=20 > ground.  If the water doesn't get
to this depth, the roots can't = > get at=20 > it.  So long and slow is the way to
go.  I water my plants = > the=20 > first of the month, so I don't forget, in June,
July, August, and = > September=20 > assuming that we haven't had enough rain.  Don't water more than = > this as=20 > the soil needs to dry out thoroughly between waterings or your plant may = > start=20 > to rot from too much moisture.  Good luck!
-----Original=20 > Message-----
From: href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com = > < href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com&g= > t;
To:=20 > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > =20 > < href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
Date:=20 > Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort = > WWW=20 > page


>arid_gardener
>Our yuccas' leaves are turning=20 > yellow.  There's yellow at the tips (2
inches)or yellow started = > in mid=20 > leaf and growing larger.
>
>What is my = > problem??
>
>We=20 > have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on
the=20 > level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from=20 > them.
>
>Thank=20 > you.
>
>
>
>_____________________________________= > __________
>Arid_gardener=20 > mailing list
> href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
> href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives=20 > - < href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/">http://Ag.Arizona= > .Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>
>
>
TML> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

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> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest_______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:38:58 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:38:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Little Pumpkins I can't be entirely sure, but I suspect your problem is similar to ones with other squash plants. With little or no pollination, the plant might still produce a very small fruit that is not viable for long. See the relevant discussion in our Timely Tips column for July at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm The tremendous heat does not help the pollination process. Linda Guy Marikelly Block wrote: > arid_gardenerCan anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 05:23:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:23:49 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe ----- Original Message ----- From: > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your location? Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:00:38 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:00:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:24 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Are all dates from Palms edible? May be edible but not necessarily palatable. Date palms for date production are propagated vegetatively by harvesting offshoots from a parent. Many of the "ornamental" date palms in landscapes grew from discarded seeds of unknown parentage. We have one such tree that bears excellent dates but don't know what kind. Date palms are dioecious (male and female flowers on different trees). and need to be hand-pollinated to produce decent fruit. Fresh pollen from flowers collected within a few hours after the flower sheath opens should be used. The female flowers should be pollinated as soon as possible after the sheath splits open (within 1-3 days). >When are dates harvested? Timing depends on the variety. Developing fruit is usually protected by covering with a waterproof paper protector. When the fruit starts to ripen, the flesh becomes soft and turns dark brown. The degree of ripeness for staring to pick depends on the type (soft, semi-soft, etc). >Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Probably not. > Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? This is the easiest part. We just use a shallow box (like a pop case), line the bottom with a paper towel, put in the fruit, cover it with cheesecloth from Frye's Supermarket (to protect from birds and bugs), and put it in the sun. Should turn them daily if you don't use a box with a screen or hardware cloth bottom which would allow for air circulation. We just finished drying grapes. Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:11:36 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:11:36 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" >Hi, folks – Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the salt. My questions are: >s this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Yes. >Where does the salt come from? Most irrigation water comes from the Colorado River or Salt River drainages and contains lots of minerals. When the water evaporates, it leaves salt residues. >Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Yes. > Does deepwatering fix it and, if so, aren’t I also washing away good nutrients besides the salt? Deep watering leaches out the salts and also some nutrients. >... >...Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., “made in/for Arizona”) better than the national products or is this just marketing hype? Depends. In some cases, e.g., many fertilizers also contain sulfur s well as some of the trace minerals our soil needs. >... >...Are there nutrients in the rain that don’t exist in the hose water? No. But rain water is better because it doesn't contain all of the dissolved salts. (Why do you have rain in Peoria when we don't have any in N. Phoenix?). Olin From Alelopathy@aol.com Wed Aug 2 10:56:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 06:56:39 EDT From: Alelopathy@aol.com Alelopathy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Email I've just received over 900 Arid-gardener Digest messages. Do you think something went amiss? ? ? From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 14:26:50 2000 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:26:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Date Palms In addition to Olin's response, if you are interested, the arboretum at ASU has a date palm curator [480-965-8137]. Historic, former commercial date gardens here in the valley remain in the Date Palm Manor district of Tempe [Khadrawy, Hayany and Deglet Noor dates] and in my own neighborhood of Arcadia [Black Sphinx]. At last year's Master Gardener Conference, the Arboretum did a good presentation on date garden care, month by month. You could call our MG Desk at the Maricopa County Extension Office and ask if someone would xerox the 4-5 pages out of the conference proceedings manual and mail it to you. You might have to pay a nominal charge for this. [602-470-8086 ext.301] While you are on the phone with them, you might ask if they have an old home horticulture pub laying around that they could also copy. It's #8330 Growing and Processing Dates, and although it is not circulated any longer, many of us who did our training a while ago have this publication in our manuals. This pub suggests that dates picked before fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temp between 95 and 120 degrees F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured/dehydrated to the point where spoilage will not occur. Because you said your dates were still green, I'm not sure this would work in your situation. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener archsoul@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerAre all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:34:41 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:34:41 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My pumpkins and squash develop a condition were the veins of the leaves slowly turn gray. This leads to a netted appearance in the leaf as the gray spreads. Finally the leaf is totally gray and brittle. What causes this condition? I’ve tried using various fertilizers in the past to no avail. Gratefully, Chris Webb From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:23:40 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:23:40 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote dormancy? Gratefully, Chris Webb From maryfergus@aol.com Wed Aug 2 15:15:32 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 08:15:32 -0700 (MST) From: maryfergus@aol.com maryfergus@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our two yr old Desert Museum Palo Verde tree blew down in the wind; the roots were not exposed; nothing broken; It has been pushed back up and staked well. MY QUESTION: What can we do to help its shock? Water it deeply??? (the ground was wet) Can we put anything on it to help ?? B1 solution??? Super-Thrive?? Miracle grow? Thanks very much for any help you can give us. This is a beautiful tree!!! Mary McArdle (623) 975 0430 From stevekop@hotmail.com Wed Aug 2 17:52:57 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:52:57 -0700 (MST) From: stevekop@hotmail.com stevekop@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have about a half acre St. Augustine lawn near downtown Tempe, where we have flood irrigigation. Within the last few months, the St. Augustine is dying in patches. It first turns brown, then dies entirely. Bermuda and assorted weeds tend to fill the dead areas. I recently read about St. Augustine Decline in Florida. Is that virus common in Arizona? Is it likely that is the cause? If so, is there any cure or preventative measures? Is there any other likely cause? Thanks for the help. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 18:00:41 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 11:00:41 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Grape Problems Recommend you obtain Pub. MC 59, "Growing Backyard Grapes" from the Cooperative Extension. It addresses your questions but is too lengthy to reproduce here. Either stop by the extension off ice or order it by sending your request, and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Insect pests described therein are variegated leaf hoppers, Western grape leaf skeletonizers, and grape flea beetles. If the your plants are well established, they should survive. They would be losing their leaves in a few months anyway regardless of what you do and there won't be any wouldn't be any significant new growth this year. Just keep the roots from drying out but not too wet. Should leaf out again in February. But be sure to get a copy of MC59. ----- Original Message ----- From: >My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? > > At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote .dormancy? From marypatter@aol.com Wed Aug 2 20:19:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: marypatter@aol.com marypatter@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I discourage birds from landing in my yard, drinking pool water and making a mess all over the deck, waterfall, etc.? From ClaireASP@aol.com Wed Aug 2 21:08:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:08:02 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sister-in-law from So. Calif. just gave me a plant called Duranta. It is in a five gal.pot, and about 41/2 ft. tall, on a stake. I looked this up in my Sunset Western Garden book, and it said that it is okay in our zone 13. Also says it can take full sun. Do you agree with that? Should I plant it in the ground, in sun or shade; or plant it in a nice pot and keep it on my shaded patio. If I plant it in the ground,should I put a trellis behind it, or keep it staked as it is now? I hope that someone is familiar with this plant and can offer me suggestions on how to properly care for this plant. It is such a neat looking plant and I don't want to loose it! I have lost enough plants this summer already!!! In case you need to know what area I live in, it is No. Scottsdale. I have one more question. I had a 36" box Shamel Ash planted two weeks ago, I know I shouldn't have planted it at this time of the year! Anyway, within a few days all the leaves completely dried up. I have deep watered it every day like the guy at Moon Valley told me to do. Do you think my tree is dead, or might it come back? I have a three month warranty on it; but will I be able to tell at that time that it is actually dead? Sorry to bother you; and thanks for all the help that you have given me in the past.You guys do a great job!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 20:39:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:39:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe Correction: Catfacing is thought to be a blossoming problem and, therefore, occurs at the blossom end, not at the stem. Stem end splitting is probably caused by the hot weather causing the skin to toughen and then split when irrigated. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "kathleen williams" To: "Olin Miller" Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 8:19 AM Subject: Re: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe > Thanks a million for the info.to answer the below,no I am not in desert/no I > did not plant same kind I planted before/they did not have it on hand,This > is the Parks Whopper,the other were German girl (Queen)I did have to plant > late this yr.too cool here,Live/learn,in Ga.. >... > ----- Original Message -----> From: Olin Miller > > > > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? > > > > There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's > > face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These > > malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the > > early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be > > worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. > > Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The > > cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > > > > > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 > > ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 > > yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? > > > > If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. > > Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you > > plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this > > year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the > > recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your > location? > > > > Olin From clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 21:25:01 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:25:01 -0700 From: Cindy Stuckey clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of virus. Thank you for any suggestions ... Cindy From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:26:16 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:26:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Are all dates from Palms edible? Following is the text portion of Cooperative Extension Pub. 8330, "Growing and Processing Dates". Should answer all of your questions. -Olin ============================================= The University of Arizona. College of Agriculture. Tucson, Arizona 85721 Lowell F. True and Allan D. Boettcher, Agricultural Extension Agents, Maricopa County Dates have been grown since ancient times and are an important food source in desert regions of North Africa and Southwest Asia. Dates were first grown in America from seed imported by Jesuit missionaries. The first commercial date garden was planted in 1912 and between 1920 and 1945, about 500 acres of commercial date palms were grown in Arizona. Summer rainfall proved a serious hazard to commercial production in the Salt River Valley and most of the palms have been destroyed or the acreage has been subdivided for housing because of unprofitable operation. Many of the palms remaining at homesites are productive and property owners can harvest the fruit. Because the date palm grows only in the desert, it commands a great deal of local public interest. Varieties Dates may be classed as soft, semi-dry or dry {bread) dates. Soft dates have soft flesh, high moisture content, low sugar content and are highly perishable. Conversely, semi-dry varieties have firm flesh, low moisture content, high sugar content and may be kept for weeks or months at room temperature with little deterioration. Dry dates have a high sugar content but are undesirable for fresh consumption because of their hard, dry flesh. The following soft and semi-dry varieties commonly are found growing around Arizona homes: Halawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening mid-season to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Hayany -Soft, large size; dark red, ripening early to deep purple; highly susceptible to rain damage, ferments easily. Khadrawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening early to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Khustawy -Soft, small size; yellow, ripening mid-season to light brown, rain tolerant. Maktoom -Soft, large size; yellow, ripening late to amber; somewhat rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Medjool -Semi-dry, large size; orange-yellow, ripening mid-season to reddish-brown; rain tolerant. This variety currently is being planted most widely in Arizona, thus offshoots are difficult to obtain. Zahidi -Semi-dry, small size; bright yellow, ripening late to light brown; rain tolerant. Removing and Planting Offshoots Date palms are dioecious, each tree being specifically male or female. When date palms are propagated from seeds, about one-half will be males and the females rarely resemble the parent. Propagation from an offshoot is the best way to start a young palm capable of producing high quality fruit. Since offshoots are not commonly available from retail nurseries, the best source is from established trees in neighborhood yards. Select for transplanting offshoots 10 to 12 inches in diameter and weighing 35 to 70 pounds. Since growth is poor in winter months, plant offshoots in April or May to take advantage of the warm summer growth period. Remove the lower leaves and tie the remaining 10 or 12 younger leaves together with twine {not wire) to make offshoot removal easier. Remove the soil at the base of the offshoot to expose the roots and locate the tough stalk-like connection to the parent palm. If it is not connected to the parent plant the "offshoot" is a seedling and not desirable as a transplant. A special date palm chisel is required to sever the connection and to cut the roots at the offshoot base. The chisel blade is a hardened steel plate 9 x 4 x 1 inches in size, ground sharp and welded to the end of a 48-inch steel rod 11/4 inches in diameter . Successful offshoot removal requires two persons, one to hold the chisel, the other to drive it with a 16-pound hammer. After separating offshoot from parent, prune the tied leaves about 36 inches above the offshoot trunk. Wrap with wet burlap until ready to plant. The offshoots that develop above the soil line will not have any roots and will be more difficult to transplant satisfactorily. Plant the offshoot in a prepared hole in the center of a basin five feet in diameter and 10 inches deep. Work the soil carefully around the base and roots while water is running into the hole. Air pockets in the. soil beneath the offshoot can be fatal. If more than one palm is to be planted, space them at least 30 feet apart. Keep the soil moist around the offshoot for at least six weeks after planting by running three inches of water into the basin every three to eight days, depending on soil type and weather conditions. During the remainder of the summer months, fill the basin slowly every two weeks. Irrigation Established date palms are capable of surviving long periods without irrigation but respond to regular deep watering. To maintain maximum growth, the soil should be thoroughly wetted to a depth of six to eight feet once during the winter and spring followed by summer irrigations at intervals of 20 to 25 days. It will take approximately 8 inches of water to moisten the top 6 to 8 feet or 4 to 5 inches of water to wet the top 3 or 4 feet. Damage to ripening fruit by late summer rains and accompanying high humidity is more severe if the palms have been recently irrigated. Best fruit quality is obtained when the trees are under moderate moisture stress during ripening. Desirable soil moisture conditions may be difficult to maintain in the home yard where there are lawns and other plants requiring scheduled irrigations. Fertilization Date palms have deep spreading root systems capable of foraging widely for nutrients. Maximum growth and fruiting will continue for many years in a moderately fertile soil without additional fertilization. Annual application of barnyard manure is an excellent way to maintain the soil fertility. Application of moderate amounts of commercial fertilizer is advisable for soils known to be low in fertility. Leaf Removal About 100 leaves are required to support a normal date crop. Since about 20 new leaves are produced each year, no more than 20 should be removed at anyone time. If there are fewer than 100 leaves on the palm, remove only the dead leaves. The number of leaves can be estimated by counting the number of tiers of leaves, moving in a slightly spiral direction from the lowest to the highest, and multiplying by 13. It is advisable to cut spines from the leaf midribs to prevent personal injury during pollinating and harvesting operations. Pollination Since male flowers are borne on separate trees, hand pollination is necessary to insure a good fruit set. Some male trees bloom as late as January; some female trees as early as mid-February. Most male and female trees normally will flower during March and April. Collect male flowers within a few hours after the sheath (Figure 3) splits open, to prevent pollen loss. Store in a cool place. For the first few weeks a newly opened male flower can be hung upside down in a cool, airy area until needed. One must prevent mold from attacking the moisture laden pollen. Before pollinating, remove about 1/3 to 1/2 of the female flower strands from the center of each flower cluster. Cut three or four strands of florets from the male flower and place among the female flower strands within one to three days after its sheath splits open. The pollen-bearing male florets may be held in place by tying the female flower with twine (Figure 4), using a slip knot which gradually will loosen as the fruit development proceeds. Fruit Thinning If fruit is not thinned, palms tend to over-produce, causing fewer flowers to develop the following year. An average palm tree with 100 leaves can easily support seven to eight of the approximately 18 flower clusters that may develop during its flowering period. When developing berries reach 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter, adjust the fruit load accordingly, removing the smallest clusters first. Fruit size can be increased by removing at the same time fruit strands from the center of the re- maining clusters, individual berries from the strands or both. In general, removal of 40% to 60% of the berries from the cluster will nearly double the weight of the remaining fruit at harvest. Physiological damage to fruit of some varieties may result from over-thinning. To prevent wind damage to the fruit and breaking of long fruit arms, support the weight of heavy clusters by tying each one to an adjacent leaf midrib. Reducing Rain and Insect Injury Rain and high humidity may cause physical damage to the fruit in the period preceding ripening. When this happens, cracks appear in the fruit surface through which fungi and bacteria may enter. Fermentation or souring of the fruit rapidly follows. Fruit clusters can be protected with commercially available date covers. These heavy waxed ripple kraft bags are placed around clusters and tied tightly to the fruiting arms just before the fruit begins to ripen. Cut off the excess length so that no more than three to four inches of the bottom of the cluster is exposed. It is advisable to raise the covers temporarily soon after a rain to allow free air circulation. Butcher paper is a satisfactory substitute for commercial date covers. People also have had success using bags made from porous cloth material which permits good air circulation within the bag. For example, sheer curtain material will work for date bags. The bottom may be enclosed to prevent bird entry . Bugs nor- mally enter the date through the stem end. Fruit clusters that are properly thinned will normally not develop a bug problem. Dried-fruit beetles,. bees, wasps and birds also can cause extensive injury to ripening fruit. At present no EP A.registered pesticides are available for the protection of dates against such hazards. Properly installed paper date covers tend to reduce these kinds of losses, however . Harvesting the Fruit It is necessary to make several pickings during the ripening season, as all the fruit on a cluster does not ripen uniformly. To avoid losses from insects and micro-organisms, dates should be picked when they are only partially ripened. The beginning of ripening is marked by the appearance of translucent spots on the skin at or near the fruit tips, gradually spreading over the entire fruit surface. At this stage the flesh is still firm, but as ripening proceeds, it becomes soft and mushy (tree ripe). For home processing, it is best to wait until the fruit is fully translucent to tree-ripe before picking. Damaged, sour and fermented fruit at. tracts insects and should be selectively removed from the clusters at each picking. Sorting and Cleaning Sort the fruit carefully and discard all sour and fermented dates. Soft dates should never be washed directly in water. A convenient method to clean small lots is to spread the fruit on the surface of a moist turkish towel held on a tray. Gently shake, roll and tumble the fruit to remove adhering soil and debris. Rinse the towel frequently in clean water . Ripening and Curing Dates picked before they are fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temperature between 95° and 120° F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured (dehydrated) to the point where spoilage will not occur. Tree-ripened fruit need only be cured. Fresh tree-ripe, uncured dates contain 35% to 40% moisture; the flesh is soft and mushy and the skin is mostly unwrinkled. They must be refrigerated to prevent spoilage. Fully cured dates contain 25% to 28% moisture; the flesh is rather firm and pliable and the skin is wrinkled like that of a prune. The fruit keeps well at room temperature. Almost any method may be used to heat the dates, but the most common are the kitchen oven method and the solar heater method. Kitchen oven method: Spread dates one layer deep on trays and place on oven shelves. Ideally, tray bottoms should be perforated to allow air circulation but cookie sheets may be used. If possible, insert a thin glass or metal thermometer into one of the dates. Heat oven until the fruit temperature reaches 120°F and then turn off the oven. When dates have cooled to 100°F, turn on the oven again. Inspect the fruit frequently and remove individuals that have ripened and cured to the desired point. Repeat procedure as necessary. If a thermometer is not available, modify the procedure as follows: Preheat the oven to 200°F using the oven temperature dial, then turn it off. Place the dates in the oven and leave them until it has cooled. If necessary, repeat the process until fruit is cured to the desired point. It is essential that the dates not be over-heated. Fruit temperatures above 155°F will caramelize the sugar and produce sticky, syrupy dates with a scorched flavor. Solar heater method: The solar heater is a shallow rectangular wooden box with a sloping glass or plastic cover that admits and traps the sun's heat. The sides should be tight, with screened openings at each end for ventilation. Soft dates should be placed one layer deep on trays and stacked in the heater. Semi-dry dates may be placed two to three layers deep on the trays. The stack of trays in the heater should be rotated occasionally so that all fruit receives the same exposure. On extremely hot days, some partial shade may be required to reduce the temperature in the box. Because the temperature drops at night, ripening and curing may require two to eight days, depending on the fruit and the temperature conditions. Inspect and remove ripened and cured fruit daily. High Heat Treatment High heat treatment (sometimes called "pasteurization") kills insect eggs and adults and some yeasts and bacteria. Many resistant micro-organisms survive the heat, but further dehydration also results, so treated dates usually keep well. Place the previously ripened and cured dates in a pre-heated oven and raise the fruit temperature to 150°F. Maintain the heat for 30 minutes, using a good thermometer if possible. Do not overheat. Remove fruit from the oven and allow to cool. Storage of Dates If the fruit is dehydrated to 20% to 25% moisture, no further treatment is necessary and it may be stored at room temperature in almost any kind of container. Dates containing more than 32% moisture should be refrigerated. Regardless of moisture content, dates may be stored indefinitely in a freezer at 0°F. The appearance of small white sugar crystals under the skin of fruit stored for long periods in a refrigerator is unappealing to the eye but does not harm the fruit for eating purposes. Most sugar spotting occurs in fruit with 24% to 33% moisture and can be minimized by storage at a°F or lower. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:40:18 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:40:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green In the low AZ desert, that sometimes happens when tomatoes are planted too late and further development stops before maturity due to high temperatures. Suggest contacting your local county extension office for advice in your case. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cindy Stuckey" > arid_gardener > Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits > on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign > of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. > Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day > for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate > days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of > virus. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:03 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde felled by the wind Mary, The best thing you can do to help your tree is to be sure that the tree is deep watered adequately ( to a depth in excess of 3 feet ). No do not apply fertilizer, B 1 etc. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:05 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Newly planted Shamel Ash Claire, I'm not familiar with the plant called Duranta, hopefully someone else will pick up on that part of your question. You said that all the leaves dried up and fell off the newly planted tree with in days. That tells me that the tree was delivered to you in a very dry condition or it was not watered properly when it was planted. Were you present when the tree was planted ? Two weeks should be an adequate time for every day watering. I just planted ten 36 inch box trees, the most recent was planted two weeks ago. I'm already irrigating every other day and will go to three days soon. If the tree is going to live it will start to leaf out again soon. I would recommend that you advise the nurseryman of the trees condition and do it by mail. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZroaddust@aol.com Thu Aug 3 03:04:11 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:04:11 -0700 (MST) From: AZroaddust@aol.com AZroaddust@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A 5' arm (and the only one at that) on our 32' saguaro succumbed to the high winds a few nights ago. It left a relatively small jagged break on the "trunk", but is about 11" in diameter. My inclination is to leave it alone and let nature do the healing, but I'm also concerned about it possibly contracting Bacterial Nercrosis since it is humid this time of year and there are several "rotting" saguaros on the preserve in our neighborhood. Can preventative measures be taken, or wait and see what happens? Thank you. From gpbrady@earthlink.net Thu Aug 3 04:32:55 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:32:55 -0700 (MST) From: gpbrady@earthlink.net gpbrady@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a couple of quesitons. First, I thought I bought a Ficus tree, but now I have small white fig shaped fruit at the ends of some branches. Is this normal or did the nursury make a mistake? Second, the same ficus is in full sun and has black and brown dried leaves, I am watering it, but the tree seems to have become even more sparse. I have put down bark to prevent water evaporation, and the soil beneath it seem moist, yet not too wet. Is the leave discoloration normal due to the heat or should I water even more? Geoff From janetfay@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 23:24:09 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:24:09 -0700 (MST) From: janetfay@ix.netcom.com janetfay@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On the north side of my exterior stucco wall there are some strange blood-like "splats",in a random pattern.Each are about 2 inches in diameter, in a variety of patterns. I don't think it is a bird related marking, and is only on this exposure of my house. It washes off with difficulty. Thank you for any help on these mysteries markings. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Thu Aug 3 15:30:50 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:30:50 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Duranta species, aka: sky flowers Concerning the sky flower (Duranta sp.) you were given.... Sky flowers are a tropical plant. Native to tropical climates, these plants love heat, humidity, bright light (a lot of full sun), well draining soils, and will tolerate coastal areas. In our inland, and subtropical desert, the conditions are drier and considerably more intense with heat and sunlight during the summer months. I would plant the sky flower in the ground, within an area that is protected from direct summer sun (filtered over head, morning sun only, avoid western exposures). This plant will require a lot of soil moisture during our hot summer months, so by planting it within shady enclosures, under patios, atriums, etc., it should thrive and you will be able to keep the soil cooler and moister than out in direct exposure conditions. The sky flower (most common and best is Duranta repens) will climb and bramble like cape honeysuckle (if you are familiar with the plant), and it is best to support the plant around walls, a trellis or large rock features (I have seen this plant used around shaded waterfalls in water garden settings). By keeping it protected, any extreme cold or frost conditions that might occur in winter, will not kill back the plant or foliage. Windy areas will also beat and tatter the foliage until it matures. Keep in mind the berries produced by this plant are poisonous and the plant can have thorns with maturity, so it can be a hazard to children if planted where kids are to frequent. If you like this plant, you might also consider a Vitex (Chaste tree). This plant has a similar bloom that is upright (blossoms like lavender or some sage), and Vitex can be planted as a shrub screen, or small tree. This plant is a more tolerant of arid, dry conditions than Duranta and can be planted in full sun. Hopefully this addresses your concerns. Valerie Meyers From cotton@dancris.com Thu Aug 3 18:13:15 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 11:13:15 -0700 From: Steven Bales cotton@dancris.com Subject: [AG] sources for garden veggy seeds --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country. Thanks for your help, Steven Bales --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area.  Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden.  Also looking for seed vendors.  Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best?   Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country.
 
Thanks for your help,  Steven Bales
--=====================_10844779==_.ALT-- From Gadkin@uswest.net Thu Aug 3 14:28:09 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 07:28:09 -0700 (MST) From: Gadkin@uswest.net Gadkin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Do you have any information about alternative/artificial grass systems. Our current lawn is consuming large amounts of water and time to maintain but we would still like and area for our children to play. I'm hoping that there might be an alternative that is easy on the knees and friendlier to the environment. Thank you for a response, Kim From RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Thu Aug 3 23:39:03 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 16:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: RAM6260@YAHOO.COM RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My lemon tree last year lost it's leaves in midsummer while the adjacent orange and grapefruit trees on the same watering schedule did fine. This spring, I got some new leaf development but leaves are still sparce. I do have some fruit developing. Do not detect cholosis. Any ideas? From LBradley@sisna.com Fri Aug 4 01:04:03 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 18:04:03 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Arid Landscape Plants course to be offered at Glendale Community College Fall 2000 >From: DESERTPLTS@aol.com >Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 17:55:13 EDT >Subject: (no subject) >To: > > >Lucy, >If you know of any persons that might be interested in taking AGS188 at >Glendale Comm College, Arid Landscape Plants, I finally got through the >paperwork. It will be 6-9pm mon and wed nites starting aug 28th, if any >one has any questions, they can email me or call me at mountain states. >thanks >see you at the master gardeners >george hull Lucy K. Bradley From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:32:52 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:32:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Prickly Pear Fruit Your question has been around for a while, and I'm not sure I have seen a response to it. Many of us who volunteer to answer these questions have specialties other than cactus. I hope you won't mind if I suggest that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden by telephone, during their hotline hours of 10-11:30 am, M-F. 480-941-1225 These plants are clearly their specialty, and I suspect they will help you very quickly. I apologize for the delay in our own response. Linda Guy Master Gardener Tanya.Mure@nau.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > >From some quick research I have learned that > prickly pear fruit can be anywhere between > yellow to red. One of my friends has a prickly > pear that had red fruit earlier this year and > was looking forward to harvesting the next > batch. Right now the fruit is yellow and is > falling off the cactus, when it is cut open it > smells o.k. but looks mushy (technical term), > almost like it had been left on the plant too > long. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:35:57 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:35:57 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Brown Patches in Turf There are several possibilities. One is that your sprinkler system is somehow missing these spots. Putting cans out to gauge the adequacy of the irrigation can help you determine this. There is a possibility that you have a miniscule, but difficult to control pest called pearl scale. You can find the culprit by digging out a piece of turf. Description and control measures are covered in our summary at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener gentner@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Have several large (4x6+) brown patches in tifgreen lawn. Have had grubs in the past but that doesn't seem to be the problem now. Have taken digital pictures of these areas that I can send for your review. Please advise. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:53:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:53:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Improved Mesquite Variety What exactly do you consider an improved variety of mesquite to be? Lack of tolerance for a winter cold snap, which you have suggested is one of the characteristics, would not in my opinion be considered an improvement, since this would require frost protection measures in the winter months. Sonoran desert natives include: Honey mesquite [Prosopis glandulosa] a large spiny shrub or small tree, sometimes called Texas mesquite; honey from its catkins is commonly offered for sale. Screwbean mesquite, a personal favorite [prosopis pubescens] is a tall shrub or medium tree with screwbean shaped pods. A good planting for wildlife. The Velvet or Arizona mesquite [prospis velutina] is clearly a tree, reaching to 40'. It is also terrific for urban wildlife habitat. Nonnatives include Argentine [p. alba] and Chilean [p.chlensis] also tree sized [30 x20].The Argentine has a cultivar called "Colorado" which has fewer thorns and is more cold tolerant than the Argentinean. But in total, there are 44 varieties of mesquite throughout the SW and Latin America.My understanding is that the biggest difficulty in selecting mesquites is their similarities and hence mislabeling in the nurseries. Be sure you are dealing with a trusted retailer. Linda Guy Master Gardener wildem21@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? > > I have heard they exist but I have also heare the > improved varieties have little or no tolerance for > freezing temperatures. > > I will be grateful for any information anyone > can share. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:00:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:00:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Pests I couldn't find a pest that matched your description in the entomology section of our online Master Gardener Manual, although I invite you to peruse it to see if you can make a diagnosis yourself: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html You are welcome to bring samples to one of our satellite offices near your home; or bring in a sample for the weekly diagnosis meeting at the Maricopa County Extension Office. The addresses for these locations are listed on the same page where you originally placed your question in the right hand column http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > While pulling some crabgrass out of my bermuda grass lawn, i found some areas down at the soil level that has a white fuzzy cottony substance all over them. At first it looks like a spider nest, but there is way too much of it to be that. The grass is very dense and very green. The entire back yard gets shaded late in the afternoon by the house. lawn is watered every other day and mowed every week. Any suggestions would help. > Thanx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:06:14 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:06:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Thrips? Killing cukes,melons I'm not sure that someone has yet replied to your distressing situation. I unfortunately am not sure myself what is attacking your crops. Could you take a trot through the troubleshooting section of the July Timely Tips column and see if you find the culprit? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm Another resource is the entomology chapter of our Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ If all else fails, you can take samples to the nearest satellite office or to the weekly diagnosis meeting at the main office. All the addresses are listed on the same page where you originally posted your question, right hand column. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I wasn't more helpful. Best of luck in resolving your situation. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear Master Gardener, > > I have a horrible infestation of things on the back of the leaves of my > cantaloupe and cucumbers. They are little dots of black and light brown > - I'm guessing mature and immature somethings. > > I sprayed the backs of the leaves with a spray containing stuff from > chrysanthemums, but I can't tell if it did anything. I'm losing whole > crops here, ha! My wonderful melon vines are going, and the cukes are > about gone. Any last rites you can suggest? > > Sincerely, Jackie > > _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ > http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:18:43 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:18:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Irrigation Practices In the first year, the mesquite trees may need a bit more water to get established. Your interval seems correct, but they could stand a deep watering to 3' each time. Next year you'll be able to do this monthly, or even less frequently if you are not encouraging quick, lush growth. Mine get a deep irrigation about twice a summer to aproximate monsoon weather. I don't feel the need to constantly prune above 100 degrees in the summer, and a lot of waer would cause this kind of growth! I have mostly small container cactus. But our publication 8309, which you can order with instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals says that they typically have tapering tap roots to anchor the plant and fleshy lateral roots, about 3 t 5 inches below the soils surface, that extend in search of moisture and nutrients. I hope you tried as best you could to maintain the original orientation. Cactus can often sunburn if the hardened west side is not reestablished in the same position on transplanting. Your soil should be ok for the cactus which like it well drained [for which a percentage of gravel is helpful]. Fertilization is rarely necessary, but if you feel you must, do so earlier in the season. You don't want to encourage new growth going into the cooler months where the tender ends will risk frost damage. Limited irrigation to establish the plant in the first year is necessary, but thereafter, only supplement during prolonged dry spells. It is imperative that water never be left to puddle as they disdain wet or damp feet. Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener SCSTECH2@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted my yard to cactus and a thronless Mesquite tree plus some bushes. I deepwatered the tree. I water every two weeks(a light amount) About 2 feet of clay loam over a sandy loam. Send any info you can. Do saguaro have tap roots? Thank you.... > Is it a good idea to fertilze cactus? How much? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri Aug 4 13:20:13 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 06:20:13 -0700 From: Jennifer Kleffner nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest problem Dear Arid Gardener Digest, Somehow your system got a glitch in it and I received over 900 copies of the digest dated Monday. All of the issues seemed to be different (they were numbered sequentially) but I did not check the text for changes as I was a bit overwhelmed. I finally had my internet service provider delete them on his end, as I was never going to download them all. I don't know if this was just a problem with my subscription (nativenursery@redrivernet.com) or if it affected many other people. But please check. I love this service, but if it happens again, I will have to unsubscribe. Thanks, Jennifer Kleffner From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:08 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:08 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: ocotillo --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >From: "Alan & Alicia Vorgitch" >To: >Subject: ocotillo >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 > >I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo >plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is >5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of >fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what >would the cost be. Thanks Alan Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
From: "Alan  & Alicia Vorgitch" <vorgitch@mediaone.net>
To: <cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: ocotillo
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600

I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is 5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what would the cost be.  Thanks  Alan



Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:27 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:27 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > >Linda Ffolliott > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) >From: fbard8587@uswest.net >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Francine Bard >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net >City: tempe State: Az >Country: USA >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 16:09:53 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:09:53 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [AGAphids It's difficult to say why what works for most people isn't working for you. Try washing the insects off the plants with something like a sweeeper nozzle before spraying soaps or insecticide.. Also, you will need to be persistent and repeat weekly. Or maybe they are not aphids. When whiteflies are active, there may be a new infestation of whitefly nymphs several times each week, sometimes every day. Treatment is similar to that of aphids but needs to be more frequent. With whiteflies, you would also see adults flying around the plants. Aphids are usually easier to control than whiteflies. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 16:14:48 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 09:14:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poolside Plantings We have a good publication on landscaping for pools, available at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf Succulents can be an excellent choice because their low water requirement will protect your decking. They needn't have thorns, if that is the issue, and some have a look that can fit into other themes, like mediterranean. Recommended vines were yellow morning glory and pink trumpet. But there are other flowers and shrubs which may also suit your fancy. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Carol Noyes wrote: > arid_gardener > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) > >From: Linda Ffolliott > >To: Carol Noyes > >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > > > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > > > >Linda Ffolliott > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) > >From: fbard8587@uswest.net > >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Comment from the College site > > > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > > > >Individual: Francine Bard > >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net > >City: tempe State: Az > >Country: USA > >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to > >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not > >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > ____