From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 16:52:26 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 09:52:26 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Rice [for the birds!] I wish this was my experience...it would sure be a great way to manage the abundance of pigeons in our neighborhood!!!!! Actually the experts are NOT death on the practice of throwing rice. Indeed, several indicate it is a myth/urban legend. And remember, I'm not talking about doing so regularly, but just tossing pest-laden products. I particularly liked one person's comment that his mom used to tell him the same thing about eating uncooked macaroni, and he's still around! Wildbirds regularly glean southern rice fields, too. Check out the following for more... http://www.kalmbach.com/birders/askbirders/askbirders.html http://www.snopes.com/weddings/horrors/birdrice.htm Thanks for the reply, I had a good time with this one. Heck, I even found designer rices to toss.... I particularly enjoyed the suggestion that one release butterflies or doves for a novel approach to the wedding's finale. Too bad, I'm already hitched. Linda Guy Master Gardener Mapgoddess@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lucy@cyberback.com Tue Aug 1 16:14:08 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 09:14:08 -0700 (MST) From: lucy@cyberback.com lucy@cyberback.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been a master gardener in Arkansas for three years. Am I automatically going to be a master gardener in Az, or am I expected to go through all the training? From emardick@brg.com Tue Aug 1 17:41:51 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 10:41:51 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] emails Why am I receiving emails dated before August 1 today (August 1)? From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Aug 1 17:11:59 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 10:11:59 -0700 (MST) From: Aaryn Olsson aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Digest problems Dear arid_gardener list subscriber, I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please send me one copy of the message. Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. Sincerely, Aaryn Olsson mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Aug 1 18:06:22 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 11:06:22 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [AG] Digest problems That is not the case. I am not a digest user. Although I did not receive 150 as another user did, I did receive 4 or 5 copies of the same emails. It seems to have stopped now though. alan Aaryn Olsson wrote: > arid_gardenerDear arid_gardener list subscriber, > > I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I > think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if > that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the > duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. > > In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken > action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears > to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in > error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please > send me one copy of the message. > > Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. > > Sincerely, > Aaryn Olsson > mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From tkotanch@hotmail.com Tue Aug 1 19:09:04 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tkotanch@hotmail.com tkotanch@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am a definate novice when it comes to planting in Arizona. But I have to ask a stupid question. How often should I water plants in the summer. I've gotten answers from twice a day to every other day. I have planted bogenvelias, lantana, Mexican primrose, etc. Also, how can I tell if I'm overwatering or not watering enough? Please help! Tom From EnvConnections@yahoo.com Tue Aug 1 20:59:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 13:59:49 -0700 (MST) From: EnvConnections@yahoo.com EnvConnections@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have established roses on the east side behind a 3 foot patio wall. They look just awful. I have NOT mulched this year because of a horrible roach problem in our yard. Could I cut the roses back now, below the wall? What else can I do? From marybuck@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 23:19:51 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:19:51 -0700 (MST) From: marybuck@uswest.net marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am wondering why I have received over 400 messages from aridgardener on my e-mail today.This has really tied up my e-mail. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:10 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Unknowm tree dying Your tree is probably dying because it is not getting enough water. Since I don't know what the tree is I can't give you exact guidelines, I can however give you approximations that will help keep the tree alive unless it is too far gone now. Right away place a hose under that tree that is set to run slow and leave it all night. Then adjust your time clock to water that tree and any other trees you have once a week and apply enough water to penetrate to a depth of 3 feet plus. You can determine the depth by using a steel bar, after irrigating the bar will penetrate the soil easily to the depth you have watered. As the weather cools increase the time between irrigations until winter when you should be watering trees about once a month. Checkout this website on watering trees and plants at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Insects and disease seldom attack healthy trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:19 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:19 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bottletrees It is very common for the limbs especially the lower limbs on a bottle tree to grow horizontally, so nothing to worry about. I think that you gave me a clue to the reason that one bottle tree does well while an adjoining one does not do well and that clue is that you have caliche in your yard. If you planted the trees you probably know whether or not there was caliche in the ground where the poor tree is planted. If the caliche is shallow there may not be enough depth for a good root foundatiion, or the caliche could retain water in a basin where the roots are, and the Bottle Tree does not like wet feet.. The planting hole could contain construction debris. A leaking gas main could cause severe problems. Has there been any weed killer used nearby? Have the trees been over pruned? Have all the trees received the same amount of water? Is the soil uniform through out the yard? Do you have much sandy soil? The bottle tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot,and this is the time of year to be on the lookout for it. These are a few of the many things that could cause problems. I would be concerned about your irrigation interval of once a month in the summer if you live in the low desert. This has been a really hot year, and people are loosing lots of trees . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:18 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:15 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer Rose care Your questions are similiar to dozens of others who are attempting to grow roses in the low desert. Do not prune anything off your roses except the spent blooms until you do tour fall pruning in September. I've copied my responce to other persons and hope that is helpful to you. What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 01:46:54 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 18:46:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: arid e-mail list --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer: No, this is not normal. There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ. We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected. If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus. Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list. In general its a great list and great place to learn and share gardening info. Sue Bass Master Gardener Listserve Manager J Nabors wrote: > I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. > Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am > new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a > day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please > inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer:
No, this is not normal.  There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ.  We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected.   If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus.  Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list.  In general its a great list and  great place to learn and share gardening info.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Listserve Manager

J Nabors wrote:

I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors
--------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:16:02 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:16:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit More on the topic of rice [which is after all the seed of its particular plant] for our feathered friends. Linda --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 5374 invoked by uid 0); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (204.147.80.26) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: (qmail 3678 invoked from network); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail.birdwatchersdigest.com (209.51.216.60) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from [192.168.18.20] [206.222.4.41] by mail.birdwatchersdigest.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-5.05) id ABE89D8B026A; Tue, 01 Aug 2000 14:50:16 -0400 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 14:50:27 -0400 Message-Id: From: "Bill Thompson, III" To: "Linda Guy by way of Bird Watcher's Digest" Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: editor@mail.birdwatchersdigest.com In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >How harmful is it to occasionally disperse some of these products [rice, >couscous packages] to the neighboring birds? I'm in the Phoenix metro >area, and from time to time I will dump the contents of a >weevil-infested box out for the birds. Pigeons and dove, rarely quail, >but mostly urban songbirds and pigeons. This is hardly a regular >practice. Thanks for your response. Not harmful at all. Don't worry about it. Bill T. -- Bill Thompson, III Editor Bird Watcher's Digest http://www.birdwatchersdigest.com P.O. Box 110 Marietta, OH 45750 USA 1-800-879-2473 --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59-- From marybuck@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 00:26:34 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 17:26:34 -0700 From: mary marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs HELP! I have recieved over 600 copies of this news letter. I don't know if someone there is playing a joke or if something is wrong with your server. Hopefully it's not a virus of somesort. They just don't stop coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 6:26 PM Subject: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs > arid_gardenerSend Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > arid_gardener digest > > Today's Topics: > > 1. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 2. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 4. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (fscapellit@mindspring.com) > 6. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bonnford@amug.org) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (archsoul@home.com) > 8. Fwd: (Marikelly Block) > 9. YUCCA (Sue Hakala) > 10. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 11. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 13. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

ont > size=3D3 color=3Dred face=3D"Bradley Hand ITC"> style=3D'font-size:12.0pt; > mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Bradley Hand = > ITC";color:red'>Ursula > Miller, Peoria

> >

color=3Dblack> !supportEmptyParas]>  color=3Dblack> style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><= > /p> > >

> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:24:57 -0700 (MST) > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I sent a message to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu........but never received an answer. Is anybody there? > > Please help me. > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:28:42 -0700 (MST) > From: bonnford@amug.org > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Night-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:24:41 -0700 (MST) > From: archsoul@home.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Are all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:20:19 -0700 > To: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: Marikelly Block > Subject: [AG] Fwd: > > Can anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Sue Hakala" > To: "ARCHIVES" > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:16:33 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960" > Subject: [AG] YUCCA > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with > your yucca. If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most plants = > aren't > looking their best right about now. The extreme heat and lack of rain = > has > seriously stressed many plants. It might be that your plant is = > sunburned. > If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place somehow. It does > sound stressed. If you haven't been watering, I would suggest a slow, = > deep > watering. I use an "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter = > of > the plant. This is a black hose made from recycled tires available at > places like WalMart, Target, etc. I water for 3-4 hours very slowly. = > The > water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches. Check this by pushing a = > metal > rod/long screwdriver or something into the ground. If the water doesn't = > get > to this depth, the roots can't get at it. So long and slow is the way = > to > go. I water my plants the first of the month, so I don't forget, in = > June, > July, August, and September assuming that we haven't had enough rain. = > Don't water more than this as the soil needs to dry out thoroughly = > between waterings or your plant may start to rot from too much moisture. = > Good luck! > -----Original Message----- > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >arid_gardener > >Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 > inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. > > > >What is my problem?? > > > >We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on > the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from = > them. > > > >Thank you. > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >Archives - > > > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong = > > with
your yucca.  If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most = > plants=20 > aren't
looking their best right about now.  The extreme heat and = > lack of=20 > rain has
seriously stressed many plants.  It might be that your = > plant is=20 > sunburned.
If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place=20 > somehow.  It does
sound stressed.   If you haven't = > been=20 > watering, I would suggest a slow, deep
watering.  I use an=20 > "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter of
the = > > plant.  This is a black hose made from recycled tires available=20 > at
places like WalMart, Target, etc.  I water for 3-4 hours very = > > slowly.  The
water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches.  = > Check=20 > this by pushing a metal
rod/long screwdriver or something into the=20 > ground.  If the water doesn't get
to this depth, the roots can't = > get at=20 > it.  So long and slow is the way to
go.  I water my plants = > the=20 > first of the month, so I don't forget, in June,
July, August, and = > September=20 > assuming that we haven't had enough rain.  Don't water more than = > this as=20 > the soil needs to dry out thoroughly between waterings or your plant may = > start=20 > to rot from too much moisture.  Good luck!
-----Original=20 > Message-----
From: href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com = > < href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com&g= > t;
To:=20 > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > =20 > < href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
Date:=20 > Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort = > WWW=20 > page


>arid_gardener
>Our yuccas' leaves are turning=20 > yellow.  There's yellow at the tips (2
inches)or yellow started = > in mid=20 > leaf and growing larger.
>
>What is my = > problem??
>
>We=20 > have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on
the=20 > level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from=20 > them.
>
>Thank=20 > you.
>
>
>
>_____________________________________= > __________
>Arid_gardener=20 > mailing list
> href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
> href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives=20 > - < href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/">http://Ag.Arizona= > .Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>
>
>
TML> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

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> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest_______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:38:58 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:38:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Little Pumpkins I can't be entirely sure, but I suspect your problem is similar to ones with other squash plants. With little or no pollination, the plant might still produce a very small fruit that is not viable for long. See the relevant discussion in our Timely Tips column for July at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm The tremendous heat does not help the pollination process. Linda Guy Marikelly Block wrote: > arid_gardenerCan anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 05:23:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:23:49 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe ----- Original Message ----- From: > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your location? Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:00:38 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:00:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:24 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Are all dates from Palms edible? May be edible but not necessarily palatable. Date palms for date production are propagated vegetatively by harvesting offshoots from a parent. Many of the "ornamental" date palms in landscapes grew from discarded seeds of unknown parentage. We have one such tree that bears excellent dates but don't know what kind. Date palms are dioecious (male and female flowers on different trees). and need to be hand-pollinated to produce decent fruit. Fresh pollen from flowers collected within a few hours after the flower sheath opens should be used. The female flowers should be pollinated as soon as possible after the sheath splits open (within 1-3 days). >When are dates harvested? Timing depends on the variety. Developing fruit is usually protected by covering with a waterproof paper protector. When the fruit starts to ripen, the flesh becomes soft and turns dark brown. The degree of ripeness for staring to pick depends on the type (soft, semi-soft, etc). >Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Probably not. > Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? This is the easiest part. We just use a shallow box (like a pop case), line the bottom with a paper towel, put in the fruit, cover it with cheesecloth from Frye's Supermarket (to protect from birds and bugs), and put it in the sun. Should turn them daily if you don't use a box with a screen or hardware cloth bottom which would allow for air circulation. We just finished drying grapes. Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:11:36 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:11:36 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" >Hi, folks – Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the salt. My questions are: >s this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Yes. >Where does the salt come from? Most irrigation water comes from the Colorado River or Salt River drainages and contains lots of minerals. When the water evaporates, it leaves salt residues. >Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Yes. > Does deepwatering fix it and, if so, aren’t I also washing away good nutrients besides the salt? Deep watering leaches out the salts and also some nutrients. >... >...Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., “made in/for Arizona”) better than the national products or is this just marketing hype? Depends. In some cases, e.g., many fertilizers also contain sulfur s well as some of the trace minerals our soil needs. >... >...Are there nutrients in the rain that don’t exist in the hose water? No. But rain water is better because it doesn't contain all of the dissolved salts. (Why do you have rain in Peoria when we don't have any in N. Phoenix?). Olin From Alelopathy@aol.com Wed Aug 2 10:56:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 06:56:39 EDT From: Alelopathy@aol.com Alelopathy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Email I've just received over 900 Arid-gardener Digest messages. Do you think something went amiss? ? ? From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 14:26:50 2000 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:26:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Date Palms In addition to Olin's response, if you are interested, the arboretum at ASU has a date palm curator [480-965-8137]. Historic, former commercial date gardens here in the valley remain in the Date Palm Manor district of Tempe [Khadrawy, Hayany and Deglet Noor dates] and in my own neighborhood of Arcadia [Black Sphinx]. At last year's Master Gardener Conference, the Arboretum did a good presentation on date garden care, month by month. You could call our MG Desk at the Maricopa County Extension Office and ask if someone would xerox the 4-5 pages out of the conference proceedings manual and mail it to you. You might have to pay a nominal charge for this. [602-470-8086 ext.301] While you are on the phone with them, you might ask if they have an old home horticulture pub laying around that they could also copy. It's #8330 Growing and Processing Dates, and although it is not circulated any longer, many of us who did our training a while ago have this publication in our manuals. This pub suggests that dates picked before fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temp between 95 and 120 degrees F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured/dehydrated to the point where spoilage will not occur. Because you said your dates were still green, I'm not sure this would work in your situation. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener archsoul@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerAre all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:34:41 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:34:41 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My pumpkins and squash develop a condition were the veins of the leaves slowly turn gray. This leads to a netted appearance in the leaf as the gray spreads. Finally the leaf is totally gray and brittle. What causes this condition? I’ve tried using various fertilizers in the past to no avail. Gratefully, Chris Webb From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:23:40 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:23:40 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote dormancy? Gratefully, Chris Webb From maryfergus@aol.com Wed Aug 2 15:15:32 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 08:15:32 -0700 (MST) From: maryfergus@aol.com maryfergus@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our two yr old Desert Museum Palo Verde tree blew down in the wind; the roots were not exposed; nothing broken; It has been pushed back up and staked well. MY QUESTION: What can we do to help its shock? Water it deeply??? (the ground was wet) Can we put anything on it to help ?? B1 solution??? Super-Thrive?? Miracle grow? Thanks very much for any help you can give us. This is a beautiful tree!!! Mary McArdle (623) 975 0430 From stevekop@hotmail.com Wed Aug 2 17:52:57 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:52:57 -0700 (MST) From: stevekop@hotmail.com stevekop@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have about a half acre St. Augustine lawn near downtown Tempe, where we have flood irrigigation. Within the last few months, the St. Augustine is dying in patches. It first turns brown, then dies entirely. Bermuda and assorted weeds tend to fill the dead areas. I recently read about St. Augustine Decline in Florida. Is that virus common in Arizona? Is it likely that is the cause? If so, is there any cure or preventative measures? Is there any other likely cause? Thanks for the help. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 18:00:41 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 11:00:41 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Grape Problems Recommend you obtain Pub. MC 59, "Growing Backyard Grapes" from the Cooperative Extension. It addresses your questions but is too lengthy to reproduce here. Either stop by the extension off ice or order it by sending your request, and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Insect pests described therein are variegated leaf hoppers, Western grape leaf skeletonizers, and grape flea beetles. If the your plants are well established, they should survive. They would be losing their leaves in a few months anyway regardless of what you do and there won't be any wouldn't be any significant new growth this year. Just keep the roots from drying out but not too wet. Should leaf out again in February. But be sure to get a copy of MC59. ----- Original Message ----- From: >My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? > > At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote .dormancy? From marypatter@aol.com Wed Aug 2 20:19:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: marypatter@aol.com marypatter@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I discourage birds from landing in my yard, drinking pool water and making a mess all over the deck, waterfall, etc.? From ClaireASP@aol.com Wed Aug 2 21:08:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:08:02 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sister-in-law from So. Calif. just gave me a plant called Duranta. It is in a five gal.pot, and about 41/2 ft. tall, on a stake. I looked this up in my Sunset Western Garden book, and it said that it is okay in our zone 13. Also says it can take full sun. Do you agree with that? Should I plant it in the ground, in sun or shade; or plant it in a nice pot and keep it on my shaded patio. If I plant it in the ground,should I put a trellis behind it, or keep it staked as it is now? I hope that someone is familiar with this plant and can offer me suggestions on how to properly care for this plant. It is such a neat looking plant and I don't want to loose it! I have lost enough plants this summer already!!! In case you need to know what area I live in, it is No. Scottsdale. I have one more question. I had a 36" box Shamel Ash planted two weeks ago, I know I shouldn't have planted it at this time of the year! Anyway, within a few days all the leaves completely dried up. I have deep watered it every day like the guy at Moon Valley told me to do. Do you think my tree is dead, or might it come back? I have a three month warranty on it; but will I be able to tell at that time that it is actually dead? Sorry to bother you; and thanks for all the help that you have given me in the past.You guys do a great job!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 20:39:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:39:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe Correction: Catfacing is thought to be a blossoming problem and, therefore, occurs at the blossom end, not at the stem. Stem end splitting is probably caused by the hot weather causing the skin to toughen and then split when irrigated. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "kathleen williams" To: "Olin Miller" Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 8:19 AM Subject: Re: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe > Thanks a million for the info.to answer the below,no I am not in desert/no I > did not plant same kind I planted before/they did not have it on hand,This > is the Parks Whopper,the other were German girl (Queen)I did have to plant > late this yr.too cool here,Live/learn,in Ga.. >... > ----- Original Message -----> From: Olin Miller > > > > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? > > > > There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's > > face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These > > malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the > > early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be > > worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. > > Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The > > cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > > > > > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 > > ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 > > yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? > > > > If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. > > Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you > > plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this > > year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the > > recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your > location? > > > > Olin From clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 21:25:01 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:25:01 -0700 From: Cindy Stuckey clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of virus. Thank you for any suggestions ... Cindy From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:26:16 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:26:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Are all dates from Palms edible? Following is the text portion of Cooperative Extension Pub. 8330, "Growing and Processing Dates". Should answer all of your questions. -Olin ============================================= The University of Arizona. College of Agriculture. Tucson, Arizona 85721 Lowell F. True and Allan D. Boettcher, Agricultural Extension Agents, Maricopa County Dates have been grown since ancient times and are an important food source in desert regions of North Africa and Southwest Asia. Dates were first grown in America from seed imported by Jesuit missionaries. The first commercial date garden was planted in 1912 and between 1920 and 1945, about 500 acres of commercial date palms were grown in Arizona. Summer rainfall proved a serious hazard to commercial production in the Salt River Valley and most of the palms have been destroyed or the acreage has been subdivided for housing because of unprofitable operation. Many of the palms remaining at homesites are productive and property owners can harvest the fruit. Because the date palm grows only in the desert, it commands a great deal of local public interest. Varieties Dates may be classed as soft, semi-dry or dry {bread) dates. Soft dates have soft flesh, high moisture content, low sugar content and are highly perishable. Conversely, semi-dry varieties have firm flesh, low moisture content, high sugar content and may be kept for weeks or months at room temperature with little deterioration. Dry dates have a high sugar content but are undesirable for fresh consumption because of their hard, dry flesh. The following soft and semi-dry varieties commonly are found growing around Arizona homes: Halawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening mid-season to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Hayany -Soft, large size; dark red, ripening early to deep purple; highly susceptible to rain damage, ferments easily. Khadrawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening early to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Khustawy -Soft, small size; yellow, ripening mid-season to light brown, rain tolerant. Maktoom -Soft, large size; yellow, ripening late to amber; somewhat rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Medjool -Semi-dry, large size; orange-yellow, ripening mid-season to reddish-brown; rain tolerant. This variety currently is being planted most widely in Arizona, thus offshoots are difficult to obtain. Zahidi -Semi-dry, small size; bright yellow, ripening late to light brown; rain tolerant. Removing and Planting Offshoots Date palms are dioecious, each tree being specifically male or female. When date palms are propagated from seeds, about one-half will be males and the females rarely resemble the parent. Propagation from an offshoot is the best way to start a young palm capable of producing high quality fruit. Since offshoots are not commonly available from retail nurseries, the best source is from established trees in neighborhood yards. Select for transplanting offshoots 10 to 12 inches in diameter and weighing 35 to 70 pounds. Since growth is poor in winter months, plant offshoots in April or May to take advantage of the warm summer growth period. Remove the lower leaves and tie the remaining 10 or 12 younger leaves together with twine {not wire) to make offshoot removal easier. Remove the soil at the base of the offshoot to expose the roots and locate the tough stalk-like connection to the parent palm. If it is not connected to the parent plant the "offshoot" is a seedling and not desirable as a transplant. A special date palm chisel is required to sever the connection and to cut the roots at the offshoot base. The chisel blade is a hardened steel plate 9 x 4 x 1 inches in size, ground sharp and welded to the end of a 48-inch steel rod 11/4 inches in diameter . Successful offshoot removal requires two persons, one to hold the chisel, the other to drive it with a 16-pound hammer. After separating offshoot from parent, prune the tied leaves about 36 inches above the offshoot trunk. Wrap with wet burlap until ready to plant. The offshoots that develop above the soil line will not have any roots and will be more difficult to transplant satisfactorily. Plant the offshoot in a prepared hole in the center of a basin five feet in diameter and 10 inches deep. Work the soil carefully around the base and roots while water is running into the hole. Air pockets in the. soil beneath the offshoot can be fatal. If more than one palm is to be planted, space them at least 30 feet apart. Keep the soil moist around the offshoot for at least six weeks after planting by running three inches of water into the basin every three to eight days, depending on soil type and weather conditions. During the remainder of the summer months, fill the basin slowly every two weeks. Irrigation Established date palms are capable of surviving long periods without irrigation but respond to regular deep watering. To maintain maximum growth, the soil should be thoroughly wetted to a depth of six to eight feet once during the winter and spring followed by summer irrigations at intervals of 20 to 25 days. It will take approximately 8 inches of water to moisten the top 6 to 8 feet or 4 to 5 inches of water to wet the top 3 or 4 feet. Damage to ripening fruit by late summer rains and accompanying high humidity is more severe if the palms have been recently irrigated. Best fruit quality is obtained when the trees are under moderate moisture stress during ripening. Desirable soil moisture conditions may be difficult to maintain in the home yard where there are lawns and other plants requiring scheduled irrigations. Fertilization Date palms have deep spreading root systems capable of foraging widely for nutrients. Maximum growth and fruiting will continue for many years in a moderately fertile soil without additional fertilization. Annual application of barnyard manure is an excellent way to maintain the soil fertility. Application of moderate amounts of commercial fertilizer is advisable for soils known to be low in fertility. Leaf Removal About 100 leaves are required to support a normal date crop. Since about 20 new leaves are produced each year, no more than 20 should be removed at anyone time. If there are fewer than 100 leaves on the palm, remove only the dead leaves. The number of leaves can be estimated by counting the number of tiers of leaves, moving in a slightly spiral direction from the lowest to the highest, and multiplying by 13. It is advisable to cut spines from the leaf midribs to prevent personal injury during pollinating and harvesting operations. Pollination Since male flowers are borne on separate trees, hand pollination is necessary to insure a good fruit set. Some male trees bloom as late as January; some female trees as early as mid-February. Most male and female trees normally will flower during March and April. Collect male flowers within a few hours after the sheath (Figure 3) splits open, to prevent pollen loss. Store in a cool place. For the first few weeks a newly opened male flower can be hung upside down in a cool, airy area until needed. One must prevent mold from attacking the moisture laden pollen. Before pollinating, remove about 1/3 to 1/2 of the female flower strands from the center of each flower cluster. Cut three or four strands of florets from the male flower and place among the female flower strands within one to three days after its sheath splits open. The pollen-bearing male florets may be held in place by tying the female flower with twine (Figure 4), using a slip knot which gradually will loosen as the fruit development proceeds. Fruit Thinning If fruit is not thinned, palms tend to over-produce, causing fewer flowers to develop the following year. An average palm tree with 100 leaves can easily support seven to eight of the approximately 18 flower clusters that may develop during its flowering period. When developing berries reach 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter, adjust the fruit load accordingly, removing the smallest clusters first. Fruit size can be increased by removing at the same time fruit strands from the center of the re- maining clusters, individual berries from the strands or both. In general, removal of 40% to 60% of the berries from the cluster will nearly double the weight of the remaining fruit at harvest. Physiological damage to fruit of some varieties may result from over-thinning. To prevent wind damage to the fruit and breaking of long fruit arms, support the weight of heavy clusters by tying each one to an adjacent leaf midrib. Reducing Rain and Insect Injury Rain and high humidity may cause physical damage to the fruit in the period preceding ripening. When this happens, cracks appear in the fruit surface through which fungi and bacteria may enter. Fermentation or souring of the fruit rapidly follows. Fruit clusters can be protected with commercially available date covers. These heavy waxed ripple kraft bags are placed around clusters and tied tightly to the fruiting arms just before the fruit begins to ripen. Cut off the excess length so that no more than three to four inches of the bottom of the cluster is exposed. It is advisable to raise the covers temporarily soon after a rain to allow free air circulation. Butcher paper is a satisfactory substitute for commercial date covers. People also have had success using bags made from porous cloth material which permits good air circulation within the bag. For example, sheer curtain material will work for date bags. The bottom may be enclosed to prevent bird entry . Bugs nor- mally enter the date through the stem end. Fruit clusters that are properly thinned will normally not develop a bug problem. Dried-fruit beetles,. bees, wasps and birds also can cause extensive injury to ripening fruit. At present no EP A.registered pesticides are available for the protection of dates against such hazards. Properly installed paper date covers tend to reduce these kinds of losses, however . Harvesting the Fruit It is necessary to make several pickings during the ripening season, as all the fruit on a cluster does not ripen uniformly. To avoid losses from insects and micro-organisms, dates should be picked when they are only partially ripened. The beginning of ripening is marked by the appearance of translucent spots on the skin at or near the fruit tips, gradually spreading over the entire fruit surface. At this stage the flesh is still firm, but as ripening proceeds, it becomes soft and mushy (tree ripe). For home processing, it is best to wait until the fruit is fully translucent to tree-ripe before picking. Damaged, sour and fermented fruit at. tracts insects and should be selectively removed from the clusters at each picking. Sorting and Cleaning Sort the fruit carefully and discard all sour and fermented dates. Soft dates should never be washed directly in water. A convenient method to clean small lots is to spread the fruit on the surface of a moist turkish towel held on a tray. Gently shake, roll and tumble the fruit to remove adhering soil and debris. Rinse the towel frequently in clean water . Ripening and Curing Dates picked before they are fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temperature between 95° and 120° F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured (dehydrated) to the point where spoilage will not occur. Tree-ripened fruit need only be cured. Fresh tree-ripe, uncured dates contain 35% to 40% moisture; the flesh is soft and mushy and the skin is mostly unwrinkled. They must be refrigerated to prevent spoilage. Fully cured dates contain 25% to 28% moisture; the flesh is rather firm and pliable and the skin is wrinkled like that of a prune. The fruit keeps well at room temperature. Almost any method may be used to heat the dates, but the most common are the kitchen oven method and the solar heater method. Kitchen oven method: Spread dates one layer deep on trays and place on oven shelves. Ideally, tray bottoms should be perforated to allow air circulation but cookie sheets may be used. If possible, insert a thin glass or metal thermometer into one of the dates. Heat oven until the fruit temperature reaches 120°F and then turn off the oven. When dates have cooled to 100°F, turn on the oven again. Inspect the fruit frequently and remove individuals that have ripened and cured to the desired point. Repeat procedure as necessary. If a thermometer is not available, modify the procedure as follows: Preheat the oven to 200°F using the oven temperature dial, then turn it off. Place the dates in the oven and leave them until it has cooled. If necessary, repeat the process until fruit is cured to the desired point. It is essential that the dates not be over-heated. Fruit temperatures above 155°F will caramelize the sugar and produce sticky, syrupy dates with a scorched flavor. Solar heater method: The solar heater is a shallow rectangular wooden box with a sloping glass or plastic cover that admits and traps the sun's heat. The sides should be tight, with screened openings at each end for ventilation. Soft dates should be placed one layer deep on trays and stacked in the heater. Semi-dry dates may be placed two to three layers deep on the trays. The stack of trays in the heater should be rotated occasionally so that all fruit receives the same exposure. On extremely hot days, some partial shade may be required to reduce the temperature in the box. Because the temperature drops at night, ripening and curing may require two to eight days, depending on the fruit and the temperature conditions. Inspect and remove ripened and cured fruit daily. High Heat Treatment High heat treatment (sometimes called "pasteurization") kills insect eggs and adults and some yeasts and bacteria. Many resistant micro-organisms survive the heat, but further dehydration also results, so treated dates usually keep well. Place the previously ripened and cured dates in a pre-heated oven and raise the fruit temperature to 150°F. Maintain the heat for 30 minutes, using a good thermometer if possible. Do not overheat. Remove fruit from the oven and allow to cool. Storage of Dates If the fruit is dehydrated to 20% to 25% moisture, no further treatment is necessary and it may be stored at room temperature in almost any kind of container. Dates containing more than 32% moisture should be refrigerated. Regardless of moisture content, dates may be stored indefinitely in a freezer at 0°F. The appearance of small white sugar crystals under the skin of fruit stored for long periods in a refrigerator is unappealing to the eye but does not harm the fruit for eating purposes. Most sugar spotting occurs in fruit with 24% to 33% moisture and can be minimized by storage at a°F or lower. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:40:18 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:40:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green In the low AZ desert, that sometimes happens when tomatoes are planted too late and further development stops before maturity due to high temperatures. Suggest contacting your local county extension office for advice in your case. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cindy Stuckey" > arid_gardener > Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits > on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign > of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. > Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day > for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate > days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of > virus. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:03 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde felled by the wind Mary, The best thing you can do to help your tree is to be sure that the tree is deep watered adequately ( to a depth in excess of 3 feet ). No do not apply fertilizer, B 1 etc. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:05 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Newly planted Shamel Ash Claire, I'm not familiar with the plant called Duranta, hopefully someone else will pick up on that part of your question. You said that all the leaves dried up and fell off the newly planted tree with in days. That tells me that the tree was delivered to you in a very dry condition or it was not watered properly when it was planted. Were you present when the tree was planted ? Two weeks should be an adequate time for every day watering. I just planted ten 36 inch box trees, the most recent was planted two weeks ago. I'm already irrigating every other day and will go to three days soon. If the tree is going to live it will start to leaf out again soon. I would recommend that you advise the nurseryman of the trees condition and do it by mail. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZroaddust@aol.com Thu Aug 3 03:04:11 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:04:11 -0700 (MST) From: AZroaddust@aol.com AZroaddust@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A 5' arm (and the only one at that) on our 32' saguaro succumbed to the high winds a few nights ago. It left a relatively small jagged break on the "trunk", but is about 11" in diameter. My inclination is to leave it alone and let nature do the healing, but I'm also concerned about it possibly contracting Bacterial Nercrosis since it is humid this time of year and there are several "rotting" saguaros on the preserve in our neighborhood. Can preventative measures be taken, or wait and see what happens? Thank you. From gpbrady@earthlink.net Thu Aug 3 04:32:55 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:32:55 -0700 (MST) From: gpbrady@earthlink.net gpbrady@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a couple of quesitons. First, I thought I bought a Ficus tree, but now I have small white fig shaped fruit at the ends of some branches. Is this normal or did the nursury make a mistake? Second, the same ficus is in full sun and has black and brown dried leaves, I am watering it, but the tree seems to have become even more sparse. I have put down bark to prevent water evaporation, and the soil beneath it seem moist, yet not too wet. Is the leave discoloration normal due to the heat or should I water even more? Geoff From janetfay@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 23:24:09 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:24:09 -0700 (MST) From: janetfay@ix.netcom.com janetfay@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On the north side of my exterior stucco wall there are some strange blood-like "splats",in a random pattern.Each are about 2 inches in diameter, in a variety of patterns. I don't think it is a bird related marking, and is only on this exposure of my house. It washes off with difficulty. Thank you for any help on these mysteries markings. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Thu Aug 3 15:30:50 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:30:50 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Duranta species, aka: sky flowers Concerning the sky flower (Duranta sp.) you were given.... Sky flowers are a tropical plant. Native to tropical climates, these plants love heat, humidity, bright light (a lot of full sun), well draining soils, and will tolerate coastal areas. In our inland, and subtropical desert, the conditions are drier and considerably more intense with heat and sunlight during the summer months. I would plant the sky flower in the ground, within an area that is protected from direct summer sun (filtered over head, morning sun only, avoid western exposures). This plant will require a lot of soil moisture during our hot summer months, so by planting it within shady enclosures, under patios, atriums, etc., it should thrive and you will be able to keep the soil cooler and moister than out in direct exposure conditions. The sky flower (most common and best is Duranta repens) will climb and bramble like cape honeysuckle (if you are familiar with the plant), and it is best to support the plant around walls, a trellis or large rock features (I have seen this plant used around shaded waterfalls in water garden settings). By keeping it protected, any extreme cold or frost conditions that might occur in winter, will not kill back the plant or foliage. Windy areas will also beat and tatter the foliage until it matures. Keep in mind the berries produced by this plant are poisonous and the plant can have thorns with maturity, so it can be a hazard to children if planted where kids are to frequent. If you like this plant, you might also consider a Vitex (Chaste tree). This plant has a similar bloom that is upright (blossoms like lavender or some sage), and Vitex can be planted as a shrub screen, or small tree. This plant is a more tolerant of arid, dry conditions than Duranta and can be planted in full sun. Hopefully this addresses your concerns. Valerie Meyers From cotton@dancris.com Thu Aug 3 18:13:15 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 11:13:15 -0700 From: Steven Bales cotton@dancris.com Subject: [AG] sources for garden veggy seeds --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country. Thanks for your help, Steven Bales --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area.  Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden.  Also looking for seed vendors.  Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best?   Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country.
 
Thanks for your help,  Steven Bales
--=====================_10844779==_.ALT-- From Gadkin@uswest.net Thu Aug 3 14:28:09 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 07:28:09 -0700 (MST) From: Gadkin@uswest.net Gadkin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Do you have any information about alternative/artificial grass systems. Our current lawn is consuming large amounts of water and time to maintain but we would still like and area for our children to play. I'm hoping that there might be an alternative that is easy on the knees and friendlier to the environment. Thank you for a response, Kim From RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Thu Aug 3 23:39:03 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 16:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: RAM6260@YAHOO.COM RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My lemon tree last year lost it's leaves in midsummer while the adjacent orange and grapefruit trees on the same watering schedule did fine. This spring, I got some new leaf development but leaves are still sparce. I do have some fruit developing. Do not detect cholosis. Any ideas? From LBradley@sisna.com Fri Aug 4 01:04:03 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 18:04:03 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Arid Landscape Plants course to be offered at Glendale Community College Fall 2000 >From: DESERTPLTS@aol.com >Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 17:55:13 EDT >Subject: (no subject) >To: > > >Lucy, >If you know of any persons that might be interested in taking AGS188 at >Glendale Comm College, Arid Landscape Plants, I finally got through the >paperwork. It will be 6-9pm mon and wed nites starting aug 28th, if any >one has any questions, they can email me or call me at mountain states. >thanks >see you at the master gardeners >george hull Lucy K. Bradley From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:32:52 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:32:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Prickly Pear Fruit Your question has been around for a while, and I'm not sure I have seen a response to it. Many of us who volunteer to answer these questions have specialties other than cactus. I hope you won't mind if I suggest that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden by telephone, during their hotline hours of 10-11:30 am, M-F. 480-941-1225 These plants are clearly their specialty, and I suspect they will help you very quickly. I apologize for the delay in our own response. Linda Guy Master Gardener Tanya.Mure@nau.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > >From some quick research I have learned that > prickly pear fruit can be anywhere between > yellow to red. One of my friends has a prickly > pear that had red fruit earlier this year and > was looking forward to harvesting the next > batch. Right now the fruit is yellow and is > falling off the cactus, when it is cut open it > smells o.k. but looks mushy (technical term), > almost like it had been left on the plant too > long. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:35:57 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:35:57 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Brown Patches in Turf There are several possibilities. One is that your sprinkler system is somehow missing these spots. Putting cans out to gauge the adequacy of the irrigation can help you determine this. There is a possibility that you have a miniscule, but difficult to control pest called pearl scale. You can find the culprit by digging out a piece of turf. Description and control measures are covered in our summary at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener gentner@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Have several large (4x6+) brown patches in tifgreen lawn. Have had grubs in the past but that doesn't seem to be the problem now. Have taken digital pictures of these areas that I can send for your review. Please advise. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:53:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:53:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Improved Mesquite Variety What exactly do you consider an improved variety of mesquite to be? Lack of tolerance for a winter cold snap, which you have suggested is one of the characteristics, would not in my opinion be considered an improvement, since this would require frost protection measures in the winter months. Sonoran desert natives include: Honey mesquite [Prosopis glandulosa] a large spiny shrub or small tree, sometimes called Texas mesquite; honey from its catkins is commonly offered for sale. Screwbean mesquite, a personal favorite [prosopis pubescens] is a tall shrub or medium tree with screwbean shaped pods. A good planting for wildlife. The Velvet or Arizona mesquite [prospis velutina] is clearly a tree, reaching to 40'. It is also terrific for urban wildlife habitat. Nonnatives include Argentine [p. alba] and Chilean [p.chlensis] also tree sized [30 x20].The Argentine has a cultivar called "Colorado" which has fewer thorns and is more cold tolerant than the Argentinean. But in total, there are 44 varieties of mesquite throughout the SW and Latin America.My understanding is that the biggest difficulty in selecting mesquites is their similarities and hence mislabeling in the nurseries. Be sure you are dealing with a trusted retailer. Linda Guy Master Gardener wildem21@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? > > I have heard they exist but I have also heare the > improved varieties have little or no tolerance for > freezing temperatures. > > I will be grateful for any information anyone > can share. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:00:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:00:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Pests I couldn't find a pest that matched your description in the entomology section of our online Master Gardener Manual, although I invite you to peruse it to see if you can make a diagnosis yourself: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html You are welcome to bring samples to one of our satellite offices near your home; or bring in a sample for the weekly diagnosis meeting at the Maricopa County Extension Office. The addresses for these locations are listed on the same page where you originally placed your question in the right hand column http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > While pulling some crabgrass out of my bermuda grass lawn, i found some areas down at the soil level that has a white fuzzy cottony substance all over them. At first it looks like a spider nest, but there is way too much of it to be that. The grass is very dense and very green. The entire back yard gets shaded late in the afternoon by the house. lawn is watered every other day and mowed every week. Any suggestions would help. > Thanx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:06:14 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:06:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Thrips? Killing cukes,melons I'm not sure that someone has yet replied to your distressing situation. I unfortunately am not sure myself what is attacking your crops. Could you take a trot through the troubleshooting section of the July Timely Tips column and see if you find the culprit? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm Another resource is the entomology chapter of our Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ If all else fails, you can take samples to the nearest satellite office or to the weekly diagnosis meeting at the main office. All the addresses are listed on the same page where you originally posted your question, right hand column. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I wasn't more helpful. Best of luck in resolving your situation. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear Master Gardener, > > I have a horrible infestation of things on the back of the leaves of my > cantaloupe and cucumbers. They are little dots of black and light brown > - I'm guessing mature and immature somethings. > > I sprayed the backs of the leaves with a spray containing stuff from > chrysanthemums, but I can't tell if it did anything. I'm losing whole > crops here, ha! My wonderful melon vines are going, and the cukes are > about gone. Any last rites you can suggest? > > Sincerely, Jackie > > _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ > http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:18:43 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:18:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Irrigation Practices In the first year, the mesquite trees may need a bit more water to get established. Your interval seems correct, but they could stand a deep watering to 3' each time. Next year you'll be able to do this monthly, or even less frequently if you are not encouraging quick, lush growth. Mine get a deep irrigation about twice a summer to aproximate monsoon weather. I don't feel the need to constantly prune above 100 degrees in the summer, and a lot of waer would cause this kind of growth! I have mostly small container cactus. But our publication 8309, which you can order with instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals says that they typically have tapering tap roots to anchor the plant and fleshy lateral roots, about 3 t 5 inches below the soils surface, that extend in search of moisture and nutrients. I hope you tried as best you could to maintain the original orientation. Cactus can often sunburn if the hardened west side is not reestablished in the same position on transplanting. Your soil should be ok for the cactus which like it well drained [for which a percentage of gravel is helpful]. Fertilization is rarely necessary, but if you feel you must, do so earlier in the season. You don't want to encourage new growth going into the cooler months where the tender ends will risk frost damage. Limited irrigation to establish the plant in the first year is necessary, but thereafter, only supplement during prolonged dry spells. It is imperative that water never be left to puddle as they disdain wet or damp feet. Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener SCSTECH2@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted my yard to cactus and a thronless Mesquite tree plus some bushes. I deepwatered the tree. I water every two weeks(a light amount) About 2 feet of clay loam over a sandy loam. Send any info you can. Do saguaro have tap roots? Thank you.... > Is it a good idea to fertilze cactus? How much? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri Aug 4 13:20:13 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 06:20:13 -0700 From: Jennifer Kleffner nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest problem Dear Arid Gardener Digest, Somehow your system got a glitch in it and I received over 900 copies of the digest dated Monday. All of the issues seemed to be different (they were numbered sequentially) but I did not check the text for changes as I was a bit overwhelmed. I finally had my internet service provider delete them on his end, as I was never going to download them all. I don't know if this was just a problem with my subscription (nativenursery@redrivernet.com) or if it affected many other people. But please check. I love this service, but if it happens again, I will have to unsubscribe. Thanks, Jennifer Kleffner From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:08 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:08 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: ocotillo --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >From: "Alan & Alicia Vorgitch" >To: >Subject: ocotillo >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 > >I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo >plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is >5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of >fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what >would the cost be. Thanks Alan Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
From: "Alan  & Alicia Vorgitch" <vorgitch@mediaone.net>
To: <cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: ocotillo
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600

I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is 5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what would the cost be.  Thanks  Alan



Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:27 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:27 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > >Linda Ffolliott > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) >From: fbard8587@uswest.net >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Francine Bard >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net >City: tempe State: Az >Country: USA >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 16:09:53 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:09:53 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [AGAphids It's difficult to say why what works for most people isn't working for you. Try washing the insects off the plants with something like a sweeeper nozzle before spraying soaps or insecticide.. Also, you will need to be persistent and repeat weekly. Or maybe they are not aphids. When whiteflies are active, there may be a new infestation of whitefly nymphs several times each week, sometimes every day. Treatment is similar to that of aphids but needs to be more frequent. With whiteflies, you would also see adults flying around the plants. Aphids are usually easier to control than whiteflies. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 16:14:48 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 09:14:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poolside Plantings We have a good publication on landscaping for pools, available at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf Succulents can be an excellent choice because their low water requirement will protect your decking. They needn't have thorns, if that is the issue, and some have a look that can fit into other themes, like mediterranean. Recommended vines were yellow morning glory and pink trumpet. But there are other flowers and shrubs which may also suit your fancy. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Carol Noyes wrote: > arid_gardener > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) > >From: Linda Ffolliott > >To: Carol Noyes > >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > > > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > > > >Linda Ffolliott > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) > >From: fbard8587@uswest.net > >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Comment from the College site > > > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > > > >Individual: Francine Bard > >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net > >City: tempe State: Az > >Country: USA > >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to > >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not > >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 16:23:52 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:23:52 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Fwd: ocotillo Prescott might be a bit cold for ocotillos. Suggest you contact the Yavapai County Cooperative Extension Office in Prescott for advice at: Yavapai County Cooperative Extension P.O. Box 388 Prescott, AZ 86302-0388 Phone: (520) 445-6590 or (520) 771-3385 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Noyes" > From: "Alan & Alicia Vorgitch" >> I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is 5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what would the cost be. Thanks Alan From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 16:38:17 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 09:38:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening --------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mr. Bales, You could begin by consulting our online publication and planting guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable In general, as we enter the cooler months, we tend to plant vegetables whose leaves, flowers/buds or roots are eaten. Starting early spring, you will be planting vegetables whose fruits are consumed. This rule applies to most annuals. As to legumes, peas are generally cool season while beans are warm season. Onions and garlic will be planted in two months, and will be with you through about May/June. Having said all this, most of us coax an amazing array of veggies year round with some combination of containers, shade cloth or frost protection, depending on the weather, plant's requirements and our own fanatic devotion. But the general rule is good guidance for a novice. You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online. Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast. Hope this gets you started. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Steven Bales by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good > source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for > seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is > catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for > other parts of the country. > > Thanks for your help, Steven Bales --------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mr. Bales,

You could begin by consulting our online publication and planting guide at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable

In general, as we enter the cooler months, we tend to plant vegetables whose leaves, flowers/buds or roots are eaten. Starting early spring, you will be planting vegetables whose fruits are consumed. This rule applies to most annuals. As to legumes, peas are generally cool season while beans are warm season. Onions and garlic will be planted in two months, and will be with you through about May/June.

Having said all this, most of us coax an amazing array of veggies year round with some combination of containers, shade cloth or frost protection, depending on the weather, plant's requirements and our own fanatic devotion. But the general rule is good guidance for a novice.

You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm

The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm
I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online.

Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast.

Hope this gets you started.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

"Steven Bales by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area.  Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden.  Also looking for seed vendors.  Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best?   Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country.

Thanks for your help,  Steven Bales

--------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 17:00:50 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 10:00:50 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] sources for garden veggy seeds Most garden centers stock seeds that will produce well here as well as many that will not. But in most cases, catalog seed suppliers store their seeds at controlled a temperatures and controlled humidity and are better sources. Also note that many seeds companies buy their bulk seed from the same supplier before packaging them in the small gardener packets. That is, seed from a catalog seed company in Maine may be grown at the same place as that from one in California. But there are exceptions. Seeds from Native Seeds/SEARCH, located in Tucson and Plants of the Southwest in Santa Fe NM , are grown in one of the southwestern states. See: http://www.nativeseeds.org http://www.plantsothesouthwest.com I buy most of my garden seeds from Johnny's in Maine, Territorial Seeds in Oregon, Burpee in PA, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (Organic) in CA, Filaree Farms in WA (Organic garlic), Richter's in Canada (Herbs), Park Seed in So. Carolina, or locally when I need them right away. I'm sure there are other equally good sources. I think it is more important to plant at the right time of year and plant suited varieties. You will find a schedule planting for vegetables at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf http://www.filareefarm.com/ Good luck! Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Bales (by way of Lucy Bradley )" > I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country. From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 17:05:49 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 10:05:49 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Discouraging Birds It is inevitable that with water features in the yard, you will attract wildlife in the low desert. This morning at my house it was a squadron of young grackles and their moms, making a joyful squawking as they learned to tip down to the water's surface without losing their balance and falling in! Later their moms will no doubt teach them to catch the algae-eating water snails. I'd prefer that they didn't, but I'm never at a loss for snails, so I suspect all is in balance in my backyard and the pond. Later in the morning, however, it was a small group of pigeons which I'd just as soon pop with a pellet gun and skewer for dinner [whip up a nice sauce and we French will eat almost anything!]. But through observation, I learned that the entire neighborhood flock was originally visiting for a full course lunch [African sumac berries] and that year we took out a decent sized tree just to mitigate the attractiveness of our yard. Now we are back to just a hand full of pigeons, and they come and go only to drink. As long as we have netting/wire in potential spring nesting areas of our eaves, we're willing to live with the more limited mess on the slate around the pond. I'm sharing this to suggest that you target the particular offenders and remove as many other enticements as you can, since your water feature will no doubt be there permanently. That is to say, at least minimize sources of food and shelter. I don't think you can entirely discourage all birds, unless you kept a pet outdoors to do so. Or you could make a large enclosure of netting. Or hang strips of brightly shining foil whose glinting in the sun is said to deter birds. As to this latter option, I read of it often but not tried it. I'm skeptical, simply because I have a number of shiny chimes near the pond which don't seem to achieve this function at all. They are there to gently soothe, along with the gurgling waterfall, my massage/bodywork clients in an adjoining room. Quite honestly, I think the birds must like it too! You can consult the relevant listings on these pages of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/index.htm [managing birds] or the chapter on managing vertebrate pests in our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener marypatter@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerHow can I discourage birds from landing in my yard, drinking pool water and making a mess all over the deck, waterfall, etc.? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 19:19:41 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 12:19:41 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] (no subject) --=====================_15196050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Educational Opportunity Do you want to learn more about landscape plants that thrive in our desert soils and climate? Take advantage of a class being offered at Glendale Community College. Arid Landscape Plants - AGS188, is being offered on Monday and Wednesday nights from 6 - 9 pm beginning on August 28 . The instructor is George Hull, who heads up the propagation division at Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. 3 credits are available. Contact Glendale Community College for registration information. http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/ 6000 W Olive Ave, Glendale AZ 85302 (623) 845-3000 Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15196050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Educational Opportunity

Do you want to learn more about landscape plants that thrive in our desert soils and climate? Take advantage of a class being offered at Glendale Community College. Arid Landscape Plants - AGS188, is being offered on Monday and Wednesday nights from 6 - 9 pm beginning on August 28 . The instructor is George Hull, who heads up the propagation division at Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. 3 credits are available.

Contact Glendale Community College for registration information. http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/ 6000 W Olive Ave, Glendale AZ 85302
(623) 845-3000









Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15196050==_.ALT-- From appliedc@hotmail.com Fri Aug 4 00:08:52 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 17:08:52 -0700 (MST) From: appliedc@hotmail.com appliedc@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I recently had a Mexican Fan Palm trimmed. It was done by a climber with a chainsaw. Being tinker of sorts I was wondering if you know of any machine/manufacturer of a palm trimming machine. Noticing newly planted skinned palms, I was wondering if this is done by hand. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John chen appliedc@hotmail.com From mesamess@AOL.com Fri Aug 4 01:49:37 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 18:49:37 -0700 (MST) From: mesamess@AOL.com mesamess@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have five boginvillia and none of them ever bloom. I have tried watering them alot and because they always look like threr on thier last leg and I have tried holding off on the water. I planted them two years ago and had the worst luck. Evey one I know has great luck with them and I have followed thier advice to no avail. Should I trim them ,fertilize them and with what? From DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Fri Aug 4 15:43:50 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:43:50 -0700 (MST) From: DONNORRICH@AOL.COM DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page To: RodMcQ6 First, thank you for your previous information and suggestions; the citrus is doing very well! Second, could you tell me when is the best time for pruning your citrus trees. Any suggestions to help in the process would be grestly appreciated. Again, thank you very much for a great service! From mpclever@earthlink.net Fri Aug 4 04:07:41 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 21:07:41 -0700 (MST) From: mpclever@earthlink.net mpclever@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I appear to have an infestation of fungus gnats, problem is, I have NO houseplants, aluminum can recycle bin and kitchen trash have been relocated 15 feet away from the house outside. All remidies I have read about all have to do with care of houseplants. I have no fruit out of the refrigerator, and I have cleaned every kitchen cabinet, including thoroughly under the sink (thinking it may be stagnent water)trying to find were they are nesting. I have also "bombed" my house three times in six weeks with NO improvement. Please help me, I have stopped cooking for my husband and children because I don't want the gnats in our food, and we are getting tired of eating out :) From fanadea@aol.com Fri Aug 4 20:00:08 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 13:00:08 -0700 (MST) From: fanadea@aol.com fanadea@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Plantain: Considered a weed. DOes it grow here in the Phoenix area. If not, since it is considered a weed, how could one go about obtaining it? From brendalopez@home.com Fri Aug 4 16:22:58 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:22:58 -0700 (MST) From: brendalopez@home.com brendalopez@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is it a good time to plant bokchoy in Phoenix and what conditions does this veg. need From parmeljw@wellsfargo.com Fri Aug 4 20:46:34 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 13:46:34 -0700 (MST) From: parmeljw@wellsfargo.com parmeljw@wellsfargo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page TO: Cathy Rymer Last year there was a class at the Arboretum in Tempe on date palm care. Will that class be repeated at any time in the future? You can contact me by phone at 602-378-6811 or at the email address above. Thank you for your assistance. From jennifurn@netzero.net Sat Aug 5 03:11:04 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 20:11:04 -0700 (MST) From: jennifurn@netzero.net jennifurn@netzero.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help I can not get rid of this vine that I ordered out of the newspaper called "hummingbird vine". It keeps sprouting up from the roots. Round up has not worked. It turns the leaves brown but keeps on growing. What can I do!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 04:16:26 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:16:26 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Bok Choy in Phx I've grown Bok Choy a number of times and it never required any special attention or conditions. I always sowed seeds in October but according to the planting schedule at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf you can plant seeds any time from August 15 through February (6-1/2 months). But if planting during the winter months when seeds take longer to sprout, you might want to consider transplants which you would probably have to grow yourself. I suspect it would be pretty difficult to find them in garden centers. As to "conditions", you can grow under the same conditions as other cool weather greens like lettuce or the cabbage family. It's grows well in Phoenix and is easy to grow. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >When is it a good time to plant bokchoy in Phoenix and what conditions does this veg. need From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 05:06:22 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 22:06:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: getting Rid of Hummingbird Vine There are probably chemicals that would do the job but which many of us would rather not use. If you can keep its leaves from growing, the roots will eventually die. I would try digging it out. I got rid of a cape honeysuckle by digging out the roots which wasn't too difficult. There were a few places where the vines had rooted and it took a few months before I got all of it. Or you could see that the roots don't receive any irrigation for a year or so. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >Help I can not get rid of this vine that I ordered out of the newspaper called "hummingbird vine". It keeps sprouting up from the roots. Round up has not worked. It turns the leaves brown but keeps on growing. What can I do!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 05:06:32 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 22:06:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plantain (Weeds) Plantain grows very well in Phoenix, unfortunately. We used to get the buckhorn kind from seeds in horse manure which survived composting. Probably came with the hay. The broadleaf kind is less common, it's been quite awhile since I've seen it - years ago it used to come up in the lawn in the spring before being suffocated by the hybrid Bermudagrass. I don't recall having ever seen either type in the desert so it's probably only a problem with crops. I've seen seeds of the buckhorn type offered for sale in herb catalogs. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >Plantain: Considered a weed. DOes it grow here in the Phoenix area. If not, since it is considered a weed, how could one go about obtaining it? From dg.anderson@home.com Sat Aug 5 16:49:55 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 09:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: dg.anderson@home.com dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the name of the herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 6 00:35:33 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 17:35:33 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge "Manage" ----- Original Message ----- From: >What is the name of the herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Sat Aug 5 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page It is early August and my Shamel Ash is dropping all of it's leaves. Isn't it early in the season for this? If so, what could be the reason for this leaf drop? Thanks for your reply. From agaviota@hotmail.com Mon Aug 7 00:58:07 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 17:58:07 -0700 (MST) From: agaviota@hotmail.com agaviota@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was away for four weeks this summer and found my lime tree and a few other landscaping trees suffered from serious underwatering. They seem to be coming back but suffer from partially burnt leaves any suggestions to nurse them back to health? From mnrmartian@yahoo.com Sun Aug 6 22:16:31 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:16:31 -0700 (MST) From: mnrmartian@yahoo.com mnrmartian@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have just moved into a subdivion North of Hwy. 60 near Ironwood St.in Apache Junction. We find that our yard and many of the neighbors yards are infested with brown dog ticks. Apparently expensive treatment by professional pest exterminators has proven to be ineffective. What can we do?? Help! From john_reardanz@yahoo.com Sun Aug 6 16:29:06 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 09:29:06 -0700 (MST) From: john_reardanz@yahoo.com john_reardanz@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find out about the root growth of a grapefruit tree. Do the roots grow deep or do they grow shallow and spread out. From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sun Aug 6 18:25:51 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 11:25:51 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband gets itchy and red when he prunes and discards branches of Ruellia, Peninsularis or Brittoniana. Otherwise, calle Acanthaceae. It has blue flowers. Does it have that effect on people? It's happened each time (3) that he's pruned them. From artcin@earthlink.net Sun Aug 6 23:30:05 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 16:30:05 -0700 (MST) From: artcin@earthlink.net artcin@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to plant black walnut trees in my yard, and am seeking a source to purchase seeds or seedlings or trees. I live in Peoria. Black walnut trees are abundant in Wisconsin (that's where I moved from), but I can't seem to find a source for them here. Can you help? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 02:54:54 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:54:54 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [Shamel Ash Losing Leaves . Shamel Ash sometimes succumbs to root rot but the usual problem this time of year is water not penetrating to the root area. It needs lots of water and is stressed by our intense summer heat. After watering, the water should have soaked to 3 feet for mature trees. Check by probing with a steel rod. The tree should have a water basin out to the edge of its canopy for holding the water during irrigation - irrigate slowly so the water will soak in We have a Shamel Ash tree planted in 1983 and initially had problems in July and August until we started a applying sulfur and fertilizer in the spring, then giving it lots of water. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >It is early August and my Shamel Ash is dropping all of it's leaves. Isn't it early in the season for this? If so, what could be the reason for this leaf drop? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 03:15:07 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:15:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Root growth of a grapefruit tree . Roots are not invasive. Feeder roots will spread out a little past the canopy about 2-3 feet deep. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I am trying to find out about the root growth of a grapefruit tree. Do the roots grow deep or do they grow shallow and spread out. From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 03:18:05 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:18:05 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Black Walnut in Peria AZ . If you want a nut tree, consider one that is adapted to this area - e.g., pecan. You can find 15 gal. and boxed pecan trees in nurseries now and bare root in January. Now isn't a very good time for planting. Recommend waiting until October or, for bare root, January. Most nut trees, including pecans, need a second pollenizer pecan tree. Some of the pecans (e.g., Western Schley) are self-pollenizing but many of the pecans are self pollenizing but are more productive if cross pollinated from another variety of pecan tree. There are also several varieties of Almonds that will grow here.-Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I want to plant black walnut trees in my yard, and am seeking a source to purchase seeds or seedlings or trees. I live in Peoria. Black walnut trees are abundant in Wisconsin (that's where I moved from), but I can't seem to find a source for them here. Can you help? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 7 03:54:33 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:54:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape trees in bad shape due to lack of water The best thing you can do for your trees is to be sure that they are deep watered to a depth of three feet periodically. Since I do not know what the trees are I will have to play safe and recommend an irrigation interval that is safe for all, that of applying water once a week. Applying a three to four inch mulch around the trees out to the drip line will also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 05:27:24 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:27:24 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Brown Dog Tick ----- Original Message ----- From: >We have just moved into a subdivion North of > Hwy. 60 near Ironwood St.in Apache Junction. > We find that our yard and many of the > neighbors yards are infested with brown dog > ticks. Apparently expensive treatment by > professional pest exterminators has proven to > be ineffective. What can we do?? Help! Effective eradication and control usually involves the periodic use of chemicals on both the premises and the dog. It is usually best to hire a pest control operator and, at the same time, tick-dip the dog. Sounds as though you need a cooperative neighborhood effort and maybe try a different pest control operator. If neighbors do not cooperate, depending on how near they are, it may never be possible to completely eradicate the pest, only to reduce it to a tolerable threshold by periodic treatments. You can read about the treatments in Cooperative Extension Publication 6401 "Brown Dog Tick" which you can pick up at the extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix or you may order it by sending your request and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Olin Miller From msaffiri@rdc.cl Mon Aug 7 12:53:31 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 05:53:31 -0700 (MST) From: msaffiri@rdc.cl msaffiri@rdc.cl Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need information about the citrus "calamandin". Thanks in advance. From beverlybonich@msn.com Mon Aug 7 15:55:03 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 08:55:03 -0700 (MST) From: beverlybonich@msn.com beverlybonich@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 7 17:06:56 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:56 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Leucophyllum cimarron] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Resending to the list for the archives. Sue --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <398EEC8E.59CF09D6@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:23 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: beverlybonich@msn.com Subject: Re:Leucophyllum cimarron References: <200008071555.IAA18972@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm afraid I could find nothing on this particular species of Leucophyllum in any of my resources nor on the Internet through a search. I can give you some general information about Leucophyllum. Leucophyllum is a diverse genus of hardy shrubs from the Chihuahuan Desert. All are cold- and drought-tolerant and primarily reliant on the summer monsoons to induce flowering. Some species will bloom nearly anytime the humidity is up. This information is from the book "Low-Water Use Plants for California and the Southwest" by Carol Shuler. The various species generally range in size between 3 feet and 6 feet. I can't tell you how large this species grows to. Usually as wide as they are high, although the hybrid "Rain Cloud" tends to be more vertical than other Leucophyllum. Most are hardy to 5-10 degrees F. They prefer full sun and well drained soil. You may want to check with some of the larger nurseries in the area and see if they have more specific information. It may be a newer species than can be found in my reference books. Perhaps a fellow Master Gardener will have more specific information for you on this species. Sue Bass Master Gardener beverlybonich@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 17:17:51 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:17:51 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Citrus 'calamondin' . The calamondin I am somewhat familiar with is a small limequat bushy plant , usually grown as a houseplant back east. It is not very cold hardy. The limequat we occasionally see in the valley around Phoenix is 'Tavares' and it isn't very cold hardy either. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I need information about the citrus "calamandin". > From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 7 17:19:11 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:19:11 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Kumquat hybrid - Calamondin The following is information I located in the book, "Citrus" by Lance Walheim. Calamondin is listed as a Kumquat Hybrid. The book states that it is of unknown parentage but is labeled an acid mandarin, a mandarin or kumquat hybrid or its own species, Citrus mitis. It further states that this valuable ornamental is kumquatlike, which is why it is included with kumquat hybrids. Fruit is small, bright orange-red, and often borne in clusters. The tree is compact, fine textured, with small, closely spaced leaves. Cold hardy. Calamondin makes an excellent container plant indoors or out. Variegated calamondin, Citrus mitis, is also an exceptional ornamental. According to the book, the harvest season for the deserts of Arizona and California is November to March. You may want to contact the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers for additional information about this citrus. The following link will provide you with information on how to contact the group - http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener msaffiri@rdc.cl wrote: > arid_gardenerI need information about the citrus "calamandin". > > Thanks in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Mon Aug 7 19:06:44 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 12:06:44 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Leucophyllum cimarron] Sue et. al., I believe that 'Cimarron' is a trademark name that Mountain States Nursery uses for Leucophyllum zygophyllum. L. zygophyllum is a little smaller than some leucophyllums, about 4-5 feet tall and geneally a dusky whistish color owing to the fine hairs on the foliage. The flowers are a deep indigo. Like all leucophyllums it prefers full sun, very good drainage, intermittent but not continuous watering especially in the summer. You should be able to find more info on the leucophyllums in general, and sometimes this species, in most general desert gardening books. Mary Irish Sue Bass wrote: > Resending to the list for the archives. > Sue > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re:Leucophyllum cimarron > Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:23 -0700 > From: Sue Bass > To: beverlybonich@msn.com > References: <200008071555.IAA18972@Ag.Arizona.Edu> > > I'm afraid I could find nothing on this particular species of Leucophyllum in any of my resources nor on the Internet through a > search. I can give you some general information about Leucophyllum. Leucophyllum is a diverse genus of hardy shrubs from the > Chihuahuan Desert. All are cold- and drought-tolerant and primarily reliant on the summer monsoons to induce flowering. Some > species will bloom nearly anytime the humidity is up. This information is from the book "Low-Water Use Plants for California > and the Southwest" by Carol Shuler. The various species generally range in size between 3 feet and 6 feet. I can't tell you > how large this species grows to. Usually as wide as they are high, although the hybrid "Rain Cloud" tends to be more vertical > than other Leucophyllum. Most are hardy to 5-10 degrees F. They prefer full sun and well drained soil. You may want to check > with some of the larger nurseries in the area and see if they have more specific information. It may be a newer species than > can be found in my reference books. Perhaps a fellow Master Gardener will have more specific information for you on this > species. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > beverlybonich@msn.com wrote: > > > arid_gardenerI would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 21:22:25 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:22:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Citrus 'calamondin' . There is an excellent write-up at http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/calamondin.html > ----- Original Message ----- From: >I need information about the citrus "calamandin". From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Mon Aug 7 22:17:32 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 18:17:32 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Allergic skin reaction to Ruellia I do not know if anyone responded to your question about red, itchy skin from handling Ruellia.... The foliage and branches of Ruellia species are not known to be toxic or viewed as irritants to humans and I cannot think of a plant in the family Acanthaceae that is known to. However, certain plants can produce chemicals that bother some people and create allergic reactions. Oleanders, lantanas and even asparagus fern can irritate the skin and if you have a tendency to break out in a rash or itch, wear long sleeves, gloves and scarves to avoid contact of the plant with your skin. Washing affected areas immediately after handling will also cut back on a reaction. Valerie Meyers From LIGHTSMITHMM@email.msn.com Mon Aug 7 23:54:12 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:54:12 -0700 From: ROBERTA SMITH LIGHTSMITHMM@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry tree with split from wind damage Dear Master Gardeners, A friend reported a monsoon damaged, five year old, mulberry tree in Cave Creek. The tree has two large, trunk-like branches that form a "V" about 8 ft. above the ground. This is where a split ocurred last week. The tree was staked but this did not help. The split just below the "V" is oozing a white liquid. Does anyone have a specific remedy or care regimen for this ailing tree? Best Regards, Roberta Smith From aculnon1@home.com Mon Aug 7 23:00:51 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:00:51 -0700 (MST) From: aculnon1@home.com aculnon1@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I just returned home from a short trip and discovered my grapefruit tree is in serious trouble. The leaves on several branches are dead, and the bark has split in areas. Large clumps of hardened sap have oozed out of the cracks in the bark. This has happened quite suddenly. The tree is almost 30 years old and has been healthy. It had grown too large and was cut back quite a bit in late winter. What can I do to save this tree? Is it too late? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Aug 8 11:39:16 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 04:39:16 -0700 (PDT) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Information Dan, The system I use I call leaky pipe, its made by Aquapore from recycled tires. It sweats water all along the pipe.It takes some calculating and practice to adjust the system for ultimate results but basically its simple to install. As you know, water seeks dry. Useing that theory, I bury the pipe deep enough so it is 1/2 ti 1/3 deep the distance of the roots of her plants. EI. If a plant has most root in the top 3 feet of soil, I'll bury the pipes 11/2 to 2 feet deep. Through trial and some error I run the system till the bed is wet with the exception of the top 1-2 inches of soil ( that where the weed seeds are).That way we have a minium of weed problems. This would work on trees, shrubs and I've done it for lawns. The secret is to know the average depth of the roots your dealing with. The water will spread in all directions as it leaves the pipe so you get the whole root system watered but not the top soil. Hope this answers yoyr question, if not , let me know. Cactus Jack --- Dan williams wrote: > You had a post saying that you had buryied a system > in your wifes flower > gerden that watered the roots but not the surface. > and tou said that you > had no problem for years. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: john peder > To: Dan williams > Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 4:30 AM > Subject: Re: Information > > > > Dan, You will have to refresh me. What system are > you > > talking about? > > > > > > --- Dan williams wrote: > > > I never heard of that kind of system before. I > would > > > be very interested in learning more about it. > How > > > does it work and were can I purchase the > material? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ From emardick@brg.com Tue Aug 8 15:04:07 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:04:07 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees Is it advisable to put 3 - 4 inches of mulch around fruit trees now? At the present time I have about 1" of mulch around the perimeter. Thank you for your time and attention. From saz621@primenet.com Tue Aug 8 15:13:46 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:13:46 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: garlic Dear all, I have had a phenomenon in my garlic that has not happened to me before. I harvested and dried them as usual this year. But, as I began to use them, I noticed that many of the bulbs never made the distinctive split of bulblets, or cloves. One of these bulbs is the size of a large plum. Naturally this makes them a bit difficult to use. So, has this happened to any of your before? Any idea what causes it? And what would you recommend next year to prevent this strange phenom? I should say that I have grown this same strain of garlic for many years and this is the first occurrence of this problem. Thanks, Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 8 15:37:47 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:37:47 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: garlic The "bulbs" you mention are often called "rounds". I have never had true garlic develop into rounds when cloves were planted but I understand it happens to top setting garlic like the rocamboles in northern regions where the growing season is too short and also elsewhere if you plant the bulbils instead of the cloves. Maybe yours were planted too late. With elephant garlic, which we are told is really a leek, planting the corms which grow on the roots always produce rounds for me. Planting the rounds the following year yields the largest cloved bulbs but you will also get cloved bulbs by planting cloves directly - except some in northern climates where they can only grow rounds. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Irish" >... > I have had a phenomenon in my garlic that has not happened to me before. I harvested and dried them as usual this year. But, as I began to use them, I noticed that many of the bulbs never made the distinctive split of bulblets, or cloves. One of these bulbs > is the size of a large plum. Naturally this makes them a bit difficult to use. So, has this happened to any of your before? Any idea what causes it? And what would you recommend next year to prevent this strange phenom? I should say that I have grown this > same strain of garlic for many years and this is the first occurrence of this problem. > Thanks, Mary Irish > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 15:53:43 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:53:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Insect ID I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension office in your county, whose phone number will be listed in the government pages of the phone book. You could also try to find its website through http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/ Good luck to you. Linda Guy Maricopa County Master Gardener Angel Moreno wrote: > Hello Ms. Guy, > No, I am from the Central Valley area of California. It seems as if these > are tiny worms in the seed. Perhaps like the Mexican Jumping bean. > Any ideas? I just hope my oak is not affected. > > Linda Guy wrote: > > > Are you in the Phoenix metro area? [This hotline targets the Maricopa > > County, AZ area.] I've never heard of this issue locally. > > > > swamper2@pacbell.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I have these tiny little seed-like balls beneath my oak tree. > > > They resemble a tiny mustard seed. These seeds are jumping. They > > > sound like rice crispys. What are these? Should I be concerned? > > > Are they dangerous to my pets? > > > Help! > > > Angel Moreno > > > swamper2@pacbell.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 15:57:37 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:57:37 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pest ID You can try, as I did, to id the insect through our Master Gardener Manual's entomology chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ If this fails you, catch one and bring it to the weekly diagnostic meeting at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. You could also ask at the nearest satellite office, whose addresses are located on the same page where you originally asked this question. Linda Guy Master Gardener bonnford@amug.org wrote: > arid_gardenerNight-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:07:34 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:07:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Date Palm Classes The phone number [listed in last year's Master Gardener Conference proceedings] for the date palm curator is 480/965-8137. Or you could peruse the arboretum's website at http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm There was a wonderful 5-page handout from the Aroboretum's seminar on date gardening month by month at the abovereferenced conference. You could ask the curator's office for a copy, or call the Master Gardener desk at (602) 470-8086 and ask for a copy from last year's proceedings manual. Expect to pay a nominal fee. Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener parmeljw@wellsfargo.com wrote: > arid_gardenerTO: Cathy Rymer > > Last year there was a class at the Arboretum in Tempe on date palm care. Will that class be repeated at any time in the future? You can contact me by phone at 602-378-6811 or at the email address above. Thank you for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:25:38 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:25:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Improved Mesquite Variety Growing mesquites very fast can have its downside. We tend to see many more blown over in urban plantings than those in the desert habitat, and we speculate it's because we encourage [with an abundance of water and fertilizer, vs occasional deep soakings to encourage deep rooting], a canopy that is not always supported by a commensurate root zone. But this is, after all, a horticultural practice and not necessarily a function of the tree variety. As to your interest in a tree that produces heavier crops and more nutrient-laden beans, I doubt that our growers have had demand for this from the general population, since we often entertain questions from folks who are looking to eradicate the beans and their litter. I wonder if some of the groups that focus on ethnobotanic issues could be of assistance to you. Two in Arizona that come to mind are the Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix http://www.dbg.org/ and Native Seed Search in Tucson http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/ Each sponsor demo gardens on uses of native plants. They may also be a source for seeds. [From Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes] Honey mesquites have a distribution that includes much of Texas, Oklahoma and even parts of Kansas; as you might expect with such a range, this tree is very cold hardy, to 0 degrees F. The screwbean can be found to 4000 feet, in an area that includes western Texas. It is similarly cold hardy, to 0 degrees. Velvet mesquite is also found in west Texas, 1000 - 5000 feet elevation, and is slightly less hardy [ to 5 degres F]. Please also consider contacting your own county's cooperative extension office whose phone number you will find listed in the government pages of your phone book. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener Marcus Wilder wrote: > Dear Linda: > > Thank you for your time and attention. I would think the first > characteristic of an imporved variety would be rapid growth. Second, I > would think heavy crops of mesquite beans would be an improvement. Third, > richer beans would be good. > > Occasional hard freezes are the norm in my area here in South Texas. My > target area is South Bexar County, just south of San Antonio. > Infrequently the temperature can drop below twenty. > > How fast does the Arizona variety grow? Where are seedlings or beans > available? What is its cold tolerance? > > With sincere appreciation, > > Marcus > > At 07:53 PM 8/3/00 -0700, you wrote: > >What exactly do you consider an improved variety of mesquite to be? Lack > >of tolerance for a winter cold snap, which you have suggested is one of > >the characteristics, would not in my opinion be considered an > >improvement, since this would require frost protection measures in the > >winter months. > > > >Sonoran desert natives include: Honey mesquite [Prosopis glandulosa] a > >large spiny shrub or small tree, sometimes called Texas mesquite; honey > >from its catkins is commonly offered for sale. Screwbean mesquite, a > >personal favorite [prosopis pubescens] is a tall shrub or medium tree > >with screwbean shaped pods. A good planting for wildlife. The Velvet or > >Arizona mesquite [prospis velutina] is clearly a tree, reaching to 40'. > >It is also terrific for urban wildlife habitat. > > > >Nonnatives include Argentine [p. alba] and Chilean [p.chlensis] also > >tree sized [30 x20].The Argentine has a cultivar called "Colorado" which > >has fewer thorns and is more cold tolerant than the Argentinean. > > > >But in total, there are 44 varieties of mesquite throughout the SW and > >Latin America.My understanding is that the biggest difficulty in > >selecting mesquites is their similarities and hence mislabeling in the > >nurseries. Be sure you are dealing with a trusted retailer. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > > > >wildem21@bigplanet.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? > >> > >> I have heard they exist but I have also heare the > >> improved varieties have little or no tolerance for > >> freezing temperatures. > >> > >> I will be grateful for any information anyone > >> can share. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:34:12 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:34:12 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Treating a cactus wound to prevent bacterial necrosis We have a summary which includes a pretty good discussion of wound treatment at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm I think you are wise to take some precaution [although I do not grow this cactus] given that disease seems evident already in your preserve. This bacteria can be transmitted by moths' larva as you will read in the above. Good luck with your magnificent saguaro! Linda Guy Master Gardener AZroaddust@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerA 5' arm (and the only one at that) on our 32' saguaro succumbed to the high winds a few nights ago. It left a relatively small jagged break on the "trunk", but is about 11" in diameter. > > My inclination is to leave it alone and let nature do the healing, but I'm also concerned about it possibly contracting Bacterial Nercrosis since it is humid this time of year and there are several "rotting" saguaros on the preserve in our neighborhood. > > Can preventative measures be taken, or wait and see what happens? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:48:48 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:48:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ficus with Figs Would it surprise you to know that ficus is simply an ornamental fig? F. benjamina can sprout a reddish fig [though none of mine have ever produced when I grew them in more temperate climes]. F. auriculata also produces larger figs. In fact in reviewing the many varieties of ornamental figs, most produce some kind of fruit, that is mostly inedible. You might want to pick up the Sunset Western Garden Book [pp294-5] at the library and read about ficus; in addition, it would help you determine the specific variety you have. I've had experience with f. benjamina, they can be particularly fussy about being moved, e.g. from nursery to home. If it were dropping green leaves, I'd suspect insufficient water. But since they are discolored, I'm more suspicious that it is due to the move, particularly if the leaves were exposed in transit in an open truck bed. Keeping the root zone evenly moist is key, but you sound as if you are at risk to rot the plant. Be patient. I once lost all the leaves on a 15' ficus due to it's move post-purchase; I had no choice but to dangle part of it out of a station wagon for the very slow 2 mile trip home. For two months, it was 'autumn' in my living room.But it eventually releafed. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gpbrady@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardenerI have a couple of quesitons. > > First, I thought I bought a Ficus tree, but now I have small white fig shaped fruit at the ends of some branches. Is this normal or did the nursury make a mistake? > > Second, the same ficus is in full sun and has black and brown dried leaves, I am watering it, but the tree seems to have become even more sparse. I have put down bark to prevent water evaporation, and the soil beneath it seem moist, yet not too wet. Is the leave discoloration normal due to the heat or should I water even more? > > Geoff > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:58:28 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:58:28 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Deterring Birds I received a message from another server member that they have used with success mylar balloons to scare off birds. Linda Guy From momoftwo@home.com Tue Aug 8 14:54:28 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:54:28 -0700 (MST) From: momoftwo@home.com momoftwo@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Slugs have been eating my vegetable garden. What can I use to get rid of them which is safe around young kids and pets. Neither will walk in it as it is a raised bed. I've read that diatomaceous earth doesn't work when wet, can be a fatal if dogs lick paws covered with DE and it has a strong cancer warning. With all this in mind with caution can it still be used as a barrier? Where can you buy it? I read copper also works. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:21 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:21 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Lemon tree loosing leaves The lemon tree grows much faster than other varieties of citrus, consequently it uses more water. I suspect that the amount of water that you are applying may be marginal for your other trees and submarginal for the lemon. Citrus trees growing in the low desert should be deep watered every week to 10 days. Deep water means the water must penetrate to 3 plus feet and cover the entire area under the canopy.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist . From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:23 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:23 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees Three to four inches of mulch around your fruit trees would be great. You will keep the soil cooler, use less water and add humus to the soil as the mulch breaks down. Good ;luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:25 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:25 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry tree with split from wind damage Roberta, Sounds like the mulberry tree has taken a heavy hit. One of the first things you should do is to have an arborist check out the tree to be sure that you do not have a safety hazzard. While there he can tell you whether or not the tree can be saved. The yellow pages have a listing under Arborist. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:24 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:24 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus dying Your grapefruit is showing some serious stress. The first thing that I would do is to deep water the tree adequately. Was the tree watered while you were away? How much and how often? If you cut away more than 15% of the tree when you heavy pruned it, this would put the tree under stress. Then there is the age factor, at 30 years it is probably on its way down hill. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From mhills_sro@msn.com Wed Aug 9 05:38:32 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:38:32 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page - St. Augustinegrass S.A.D. or St. Augustine Decline is not as common in the Valley of the Sun as in the more humid Southeastern U.S., but it does show up here periodically - especially in the hot summer - especially during our summer monsoons. Other possible causes of dying St. Augustine that are more common, may include: 1) sudden changes in shade/sun patterns - St. Aug. gets adjusted to shade and then a tree dies, blows down or is removed and the resultant sun blast can shock the grass and kill portions. Raise the mow height and lengthen the water application to help it adjust to the new, sunnier hotter climate since the shade is gone 2) soil compaction - this can come on slowly over several years in yards with higher traffic patterns - kids, dogs, parties, etc. See how hard it is to stick a long screw driver into the soil a day after watering - if the ground is very hard it can be difficult for the grass to thrive, unless you renovate the soil a bit. Rent a core aerator (NOT a dethatcher!) and pass over the yard to improve the drainage and improve the airflow to the grass plants' roots. You can then broadcast either sand or mulch/compost over the holes and rake it in so that it settles into the holes where the cores were removed. Deeper watering and a taller summer mow height can help the remaining grass plants survive the summer to eventually get healthier and recover. 3) Inadeqaute water and/or salt buildup - St.Augustinegrass is fairly salt tolerant, but it does like water and often in the summer we find that people are not watering it quite enough to make this grass happy, or enough water to keep the salts flushed through the soil profile. Check your watering schedule and water application amounts compared to the current lawn watering rate recommendations in your water bill, or check the University of Arizona Maricopa County Extension Master Gardener website for water and fertilizer and care recommendation details specific to St. Augustinegrass. If you cannot find these details, then please email your mailing address to my personal email at mhills_sro@msn.com and I will mail you a St.Augustinegrass recommended care sheet. 4) check that nobody has applied any excessive fertlizer to the grass recently - too heavy an application in the summer heat, can often burn the grass out in patches. 5) lastly - and hard to clearly ID, is St. Augustinegrass Decline disease. No real simple answer on treating it to prevent spread and no simple way to be sure that this is what you have. Under any and all of these above situations, the grass can recover as long as you double check your care patterns and habits and make sure that it is getting the proper level of care for St. Augustinegrass. Raise the mow height in summer to 3-4 inches tall and never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height or it will scalp and brown out. Increase watering duration in the summer so that you are watering for longer periods, but less frequently - this will let the water go deeper into the soil which pushes salts down and improves the health of the grass. A light watering fairly often does not do the grass any good and will set the turf up for a stress reaction the first time that you miss a watering during summer heat stress. St. Augustinegrass seed is very rarely available, but you can still help fill in the bare spots in the turf. Rake out the dead grass in those areas, dig in some compost or mulch and then rake the prepared area smooth. Now go into healthy areas and dig out small pieces of the grass with roots intact. Transplant these cuttings into the prepared areas and water well. These cuttings should root in easily and start to spread and fill in the bare areas. Anyway, hope that some of this information clicks for you and helps to answer your questions. Please feel free to contact the Master Gardener question line or my personal email address with any further questions you may have. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County email mhills_sro@msn.com *********************************************** -----Original Message----- From: stevekop@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 10:55 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardenerI have about a half acre St. Augustine lawn near downtown Tempe, where we have flood irrigigation. Within the last few months, the St. Augustine is dying in patches. It first turns brown, then dies entirely. Bermuda and assorted weeds tend to fill the dead areas. I recently read about St. Augustine Decline in Florida. Is that virus common in Arizona? Is it likely that is the cause? If so, is there any cure or preventative measures? Is there any other likely cause? Thanks for the help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > From LusterSal@aol.com Wed Aug 9 15:15:20 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:15:20 -0700 (MST) From: LusterSal@aol.com LusterSal@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My ficus tree has brown spots on the leaves, almost as if they have been burned. The tree gets full sun all day and is on the southwest side of the house. What should I do about this problem? Any help / advise would be appreciated! From djwright@uswest.net Wed Aug 9 14:44:11 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 07:44:11 -0700 (MST) From: djwright@uswest.net djwright@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we are getting holes approx. the size of pencil leads in some of our peppers. We can find no signs of insect or birds doing the damagenor do we find any insect evidence inside the peppers. any suggestions. Dale Wright From RNikolaev@aol.com Wed Aug 9 00:20:12 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 17:20:12 -0700 (MST) From: RNikolaev@aol.com RNikolaev@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have had several plants and trees die this summer along the east edge of our property which backs up to a golf course. Is there a way to have the soil tested to find out what might be the cause before we replace the plantings? Thank you for your help. From ldd1tus@hotmail.com Wed Aug 9 15:29:55 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:29:55 -0700 (MST) From: ldd1tus@hotmail.com ldd1tus@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted sod (bermuda from a local garden shop)about two years ago. During the winter I plant winter annual rye with good results last winter. This summer I have two problems. 1. When I fertilized with a weed control granulated product it seemed to slow the growth of areas where there was overlap and excessive fertilizer...will the weed control slow/kill bermudagrass? 2. I have what seems as renegade bermuda that has runners throughout the healthy grass that is healthy but has a golden tinge to it that implies that it is dying from lack of water (which is not true). Is this another type of grass or is it what bermudagrass does under certain conditions/soil types etc.? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Aug 9 15:49:35 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 08:49:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dichondra flea beetle Chris: Had you received a response to your question? If not, I located the following information on the Net from the University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Project. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r785300711.html Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Chris Jones wrote: > What control measures and insecticides are recommended for dichondra flea > beetle infestations? > > Christopher Jones, Extension Agent > Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs > > The University of Arizona > Gila County Cooperative Extension > 1177 Monroe Street > Globe, AZ 85501 > > Ph: (520) 425-7179 > FAX: (520) 425-0265 > E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu From slmend@aol.com Wed Aug 9 15:55:49 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:55:49 -0700 (MST) From: slmend@aol.com slmend@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are newly arrived from Nebraska and have lived in the midwest all our lives. Yesterday I removed a dead orange tree. We have heard that "cocktail" trees are an option to a one fruit tree. We have an irrigated yard and a lovely producing lemon tree. The dead tree was removed from the backyard, sunny all day and at the "source of the irrigation." Do you suggest replanting in the same location? Do you recommend Cocktail trees? If so, what is a reliable source? We live in the central corridor of Phoenix. Thank you. Sharon From tslevins@u.arizona.edu Wed Aug 9 16:58:12 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 09:58:12 -0700 (MST) From: tslevins@u.arizona.edu tslevins@u.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we live in ahwatukee and would like to transplant our desert sage shrub and a mexican bird of paradise. is this possible? if so how could we do it? we also have humming bird shrubs that are very dry and brown at the base. it is a woody shrub with stalks that mainly lay down with some up growth. i think the botanical name started with a z... not sure now. they produce nice orange/red trupmet like blooms with some light green leave toward the top of stalk. how can I take care of this shrub. is this a normal look? thanks for your time, tami sue From j_harrell@NetZero.net Wed Aug 9 22:01:46 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 15:01:46 -0700 From: Jackie and Bill Harrell j_harrell@NetZero.net Subject: [AG] Tomato planting time Hi, Can somebody tell me why the Extension Service planting calendars say to plant tomatoes July 1 to August 1, but the nurseries don't get them in for another few weeks. Also the peppers say to plant July 1-July 15, and those aren't in for weeks yet, either. Thanks, Jackie _______________________________________________ Why pay for something you could get for free? NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html From kdpi@yahoo.com Wed Aug 9 23:07:11 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 16:07:11 -0700 (MST) From: kdpi@yahoo.com kdpi@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to grow a palm or palm like plant, (something airy that grows four or five feet tall, or can be maintained at that height), in a pot at the edge of my patio. The location get the afternoon sun. Is there anything that can survive the hot afternoon sun? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:10:57 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:10:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Trees dying If you haven't increased the amount of water that you are irrigating with then you should check out your irrigation system. I hear this same story all the time and 90% of the time the fault is with improper irrigation. This spring and summer have been so hot that plants without proper irrigation will not make it. Check out thhe Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If you decide to have a soil test done, there are several listed in the yellow pages under Laboratories. I have used IAS Labs several times. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:11:01 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:11:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus trees with brown spots on the leaves I have been told that California grown ficus trees may sometimes develope black spots on the leaves and this does not happen with the Arizona trees. The problem could be caused by improper irrigation. If you will reply with the age of the tree and how much and how often you are irrigating I'ii be glad to advise you. Check out this website on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:11:00 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:11:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Grass dying from too much fertilizer Too much fertiliiizer or weed killer can damage or kill your grass. It is very important to follow the instructions on the bag. If you will bring a sample of the renegade bermuda to U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 we will try to identify it for you. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener From saz621@primenet.com Thu Aug 10 00:29:18 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:29:18 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tami Sue, You certain can trasnplant your desert sage and Mexican bird of paradise. You could move them right now but especially for the sage you would have to be very careful about watering it. Moving it in such high temperatures can make for more stress than it can take sometimes. It is very easy to move around once the weather cools a bit, say in October. The bird would probably prefer to be moved now, while it is still warm enough for it to grow and recover. Because the bird is a little cold sensitive it is best not to move it between October and February. The plant with brown is probably Zauschneria californica, California fuschia and that look is very normal right now. It may be wanting a little more water but otherwise if there is green, it will sharp up come the cooler weather. Try giving it a very hard prune in late January and that will improve its form a lot. Good luck, Mary Irish tslevins@u.arizona.edu wrote: > arid_gardenerwe live in ahwatukee and would like to transplant our desert sage shrub and a mexican bird of paradise. is this possible? if so how could we do it? > > we also have humming bird shrubs that are very dry and brown at the base. it is a woody shrub with stalks that mainly lay down with some up growth. i think the botanical name started with a z... not sure now. they produce nice orange/red trupmet like blooms with some light green leave toward the top of stalk. how can I take care of this shrub. is this a normal look? thanks for your time, tami sue > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:31:53 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:31:53 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Small palms The pygmy date palm which grows to 6 to 8 feet tall, and the Sago Palm which grows 6 to 10 feet tall could be choices for you. Check them out on line at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Thu Aug 10 00:29:09 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:29:09 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Mediterranean Fan Palm which does well - though mine's in the ground. It gets the hot afternoon sun and needs almost no care. My book says it can be used in containers. But I'd get a big container since these palms get wide. But you can reduce the width by trimming it periodically and not giving it too much water. The book also says: "Accepts neglect without complaint, but grows faster and large with ample feedings and water". Also "Bold accent, tropical effect". Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of kdpi@yahoo.com Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardenerI want to grow a palm or palm like plant, (something airy that grows four or five feet tall, or can be maintained at that height), in a pot at the edge of my patio. The location get the afternoon sun. Is there anything that can survive the hot afternoon sun? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From tdpm-4@juno.com Thu Aug 10 05:00:04 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:00:04 -0700 (MST) From: tdpm-4@juno.com tdpm-4@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there a lemon or lime tree that will produce citrus into the summer months? From tdpm-4@juno.com Thu Aug 10 05:01:40 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:01:40 -0700 (MST) From: tdpm-4@juno.com tdpm-4@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? From toomanydrinksaway@aol.com Thu Aug 10 05:36:58 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:36:58 -0700 (MST) From: toomanydrinksaway@aol.com toomanydrinksaway@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently received an Anna apple tree that I planted in my backyard. What are some do's and don'ts I should know about? From saz621@primenet.com Thu Aug 10 15:48:46 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:48:46 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Mediterranean fan palm Ursula, You can indeed prune your palm to reduce both height and width. It is best to prune palms when it is warm. You won't have too hold it back with 'not giving it too much water' if it is in a container as the container will have a bonsai effect on the plant as well. Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 18:55:48 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 11:55:48 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [Using Lime to Improve Soil ----- Original Message ----- From: >Will adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? The term "caliche" is used to describe a crusty layer of calcium carbonate, a type of lime, at or near the surface of the soil. The only way to get rid of it is to remove it and haul it away. When it is below the soil surface, you can sometimes temporarily provide drainage by punching holes through it but the best solution is to remove it. Soil that is merely compacted is often mistaken for caliche. It can be broken up by deep watering and then tilling after a few days while it is still soft but not too wet. This soil condition can best be improved by mixing in compost and sulfur. Compost should be added annually because the organic material seems to dissolve in our soil which is highly alkaline due to evaporation from the surface leaving salt residues and to the highly alkaline reaction of the irrigation water. Pelleted and flaked soil sulfur is slow-acting, often takes one garden season before it becomes effective, but it is relatively long lasting. Wetable sulfur powders and liquids are fast acting but the effect is short-lived. Adding agricultural gypsum, a type of calcium sulfate, also helps loosen he soil. Adding lime will exacerbate the high pH condition and is not recommended. It would take lots of sand to effect a permanent change in the soil texture and is seldom necessary. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 19:12:35 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:12:35 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomato planting time ----- Original Message -----From: "Jackie and Bill Harrell" >... > Can somebody tell me why the Extension Service planting calendars say > to plant tomatoes July 1 to August 1, but the nurseries don't get them > in for another few weeks. Also the peppers say to plant July 1-July 15, > and those aren't in for weeks yet, either. > My copy of the planting calendar says July 15 - Aug 15 for tomatoes which I also believe to be a bit early. But you can't really go by when the nurseries have them for sale. They will only stock whatever is saleable and tomato plants would be a pretty hard sell in July and August when few people are thinking about gardening. But they will sell them all winter long because people will buy them even though it may not be the best time to plant. I haven't grown fall tomatoes for a number of years because it was a lot of work for very little return. As I recall, setting out transplants around Labor Day may yield a few ripe tomatoes, depending on the variety, but there will be quite a few green ones that won't ripen until late February with the warmer weather warms. I am acquainted with gardeners who plant tomatoes in October for a spring crop. Last year, frost protection wasn't necessary but it is required during "normal" Phoenix winters. I usually have pretty good success with a second crop in the in the fall with spring-planted peppers. It is pretty easy to keep peppers going through the summer compared with tomatoes which are more prone to wilts and blights during their dormant summer period. Olin From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Thu Aug 10 21:32:23 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:32:23 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I read in the book "Secrets to Great Soil" by Elizabeth P. Stell that growing alfalfa (green manure) will help break up caliche. The roots of alfalfa evidently break it up. On Wed, 9 Aug 2000 tdpm-4@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardenerWill adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From deniseorjohn@home.com Thu Aug 10 16:56:24 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:56:24 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted 3 - 1 gallon Italian cypresses in May. I know not to expect much if any growth during the summers here in Phoenix, but I noticed the top of the main stalk , the vertical growing tip, is dead wood now, although the rest of the plants seem fine. I snapped of the tops hoping to encourage new growth so they will continue to grow vertically. Should I prune the top down more to green wood, and exactly where would I prune? I want to encourage fast growth on the plants. Thanks so much! From evepanis@excite.com Thu Aug 10 19:02:06 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:02:06 -0700 (MST) From: evepanis@excite.com evepanis@excite.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, My question may be alittle different; I have a large terrarium, very warm conditions, because this is a bearded dragon lizards home, Anyway I was told I could plant a succulant called Haworthia in his cage and this plant is perfectly safe if he were to eat any and it is a tuff plant as far as abuse and heat conditions in tank!!! Is this palnt safe and non-toxic ??? Would appreciate answer before I use it. Thankyou so much, regards, Eve Panis From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Aug 10 22:22:01 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:22:01 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plants for patios The Wednesday Arizona Republic had a full page article on patio trees on the back page of The Good Life section. The article included a listing of patio trees for full sun, full shade and morning sun only. If you know someone who has their copy, you might want to take a look. Sue Bass Master Gardener kdpi@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI want to grow a palm or palm like plant, > (something airy that grows four or five feet > tall, or can be maintained at that height), > in a pot at the edge of my patio. > The location get the afternoon sun. > Is there anything that can survive the hot > afternoon sun? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 23:02:18 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 16:02:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sounds a lot like grackles or some other bird. Grackles often peck holes that size in citrus. Except for the holes, I'm not certain birds would leave any other sign. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >we are getting holes approx. the size of pencil leads in >some of our peppers. We can find no signs of insect >or birds doing the damage nor do we find any insect >evidence inside the peppers. any suggestions. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 23:12:31 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:12:31 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer ripening citrus Sorry, but we do not have much choice in citrus that will ripen in the summer. Lemons will ripen during the period of September thru April. The lime comes the closest to what you are looking for. The variety Bearss ripens from july thru November. The Bearss is very frost tender and should not be planted in the colder areas of the valley, and when you do plant one, find the most sheltered spot in your yard. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 13:39:04 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 06:39:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Palm Trimming Equipment Your question hasn't yet been answered, and while I can't specifically address the issue of manual vs power tools, I've several sites to suggest to you to investigate. One is the Intl Palm Society, which has an online chat function, at http://www.palms.org/ Our own publication on Landscape Palms has basic guidance for pruning, but does not discuss the tools http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf I have seen pictures of telescoping power pruners [found with a search engine under tree trimming], which looks like a little chain saw on a very long stick. You could also check out an equipment rating website such as Garden Review and get info on people's personal experience with equipment. This is a fun website where you can win some good stuff if you 'enter' yourself by supplying your opinions on anything from seed catalogs to tools to barbecue grills. Linda Guy Master Gardener appliedc@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardenerHi, > I recently had a Mexican Fan Palm trimmed. It was done by a climber with a chainsaw. Being tinker of sorts I was wondering if you know of any machine/manufacturer of a palm trimming machine. Noticing newly planted skinned palms, I was wondering if this is done by hand. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > John chen > appliedc@hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 13:59:25 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 06:59:25 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Options As a general rule, bermuda grasses and hybrids are the turf of choice in the low desert home environment, barring special circumstances like shade. As a playground for pets and kids, Midiron and Santa Ana hold up well and can take a higher mowing height...mine gets mowed only weekly. This compares to the 'tifs' that are cut shorter and produce the putting green effect. According to some material from last year's Master Gardener Conference, other turf options are not generally the best choice for the novice gardener, meaning extra effort. Dichondra is decorative though not a grass, and is not suitable for high traffic. Zoysia prefers neutral to acid soil and can be chlorotic. St. Augustine is the standard for shade. Buffalo grass is not recommended for high traffic [it's great if you want to leave your yard unmown, looking like a field, though]. Fescue is most often a cool season grass, used with some success in the summer for shaded spots. So where does this leave you? In a state of re-evaluating your yard for those key areas where lawn is an absolute must and removing it in those areas where trees, perennial borders, herb beds,etc. would be suitable and out of the way of the children's romping spots. If you decide to remove the lawn, your window of opportunity is closing for this year. Turf needs to be removed [unless you are digging out the top 8-12"] during its growing season. Let me know if you want further advice on this process. Linda Guy Master Gardener Gadkin@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardenerHello, > Do you have any information about alternative/artificial grass systems. > Our current lawn is consuming large amounts of water and time to maintain > but we would still like and area for our children to play. I'm hoping > that there might be an alternative that is easy on the knees and friendlier > to the environment. > > Thank you for a response, > Kim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 14:17:05 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 07:17:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pest ID: Fungus Gnats? I only know fungus gnats as a pest of houseplants, because the soil is where the larva reside. Lacking houseplants, compost buckets and the like in the house, I wonder if you truly have fungus gnats. I have a strong suspicion it is some other pest. Unless you have container plants directly outside your doors and windows? I'm not sure what you meant by bombing your house 3x ....was this a professionally applied treatment following the firm's positive id of the problem? What did they say the insect was? One pest that can crop up from time to time in the kitchen, and which comes in with packages of dried rice, cereals, pasta dishes is weevils. They are tiny, but they clearly look like little beetles rather than gnats. If you think this is your problem, let me know if you need assistance with prevention and control. What I can suggest is that you bring some specimens in a jar, along with a write-up of the problem [they look and act like fungus gnats, but there are no houseplants, house was treated 3x with a particular chemical, etc.] to the Maricopa County Extension office, where a weekly diagnostic session deals with homeowner problems like yours. [4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener mpclever@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardenerHelp! I appear to have an infestation of fungus gnats, problem is, I have NO houseplants, aluminum can recycle bin and kitchen trash have been relocated 15 feet away from the house outside. All remidies I have read about all have to do with care of houseplants. I have no fruit out of the refrigerator, and I have cleaned every kitchen cabinet, including thoroughly under the sink (thinking it may be stagnent water)trying to find were they are nesting. I have also "bombed" my house three times in six weeks with NO improvement. Please help me, I have stopped cooking for my husband and children because I don't want the gnats in our food, and we are getting tired of eating out :) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 14:27:06 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 07:27:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Slug Management Copper flashing [any home improvement store] is an option; other methods of control are listed on our site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/snail.htm One low tech but very effective way to rid yourself of these nighttime prowlers is to put out a few strategically placed boards or newspapers for them to hide under during the day. Manually remove them as they aggregate there. Your garden will also benefit by cleaning up all debris which provide additional 'habitat'. DE [not the pool stuff] is easily washed away. I don't know about the harm for pets/kids, as I always thought the issue was breathing it in. Since there are other options for you to try, hopefully my lack of knowledge on the topic of toxicity won't be a problem for you! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener momoftwo@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerSlugs have been eating my vegetable garden. What can I use to get rid of them which is safe around young kids and pets. Neither will walk in it as it is a raised bed. I've read that diatomaceous earth doesn't work when wet, can be a fatal if dogs lick paws covered with DE and it has a strong cancer warning. With all this in mind with caution can it still be used as a barrier? Where can you buy it? I read copper also works. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ddwight@speedchoice.com Fri Aug 11 01:07:25 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:07:25 -0700 (MST) From: ddwight@speedchoice.com ddwight@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is cabbage grown locally? I am looking for a dense head to use for sauerkraut making. Your advice is appreciated. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Fri Aug 18 17:01:42 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 10:01:42 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Drip in the Vegetable Garden I'm trying to figure out how to water my vegetable garden with drip. I've got a 4'x4' container and am using the 'Square foot Gardening' system. Tomatoes are easy becase they are 1 per square foot and I can use one emmiter. But there are 16 carrots to the square foot and I can't figure out how to water them. I could use drip sprinklers but what happens when the plants, lettuce, bush beans get up too high? Tried a drip soaker, but it has holes every six inches. I'm at a loss. - Jim From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From shapiro@azstarnet.com Sat Aug 19 10:14:21 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 04:14:21 -0600 From: Erik Shapiro shapiro@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] please remove me from list, thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 01:58:39 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 18:58:39 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Arid Gardener --------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Pauline: The last I heard from the University, they were going to run a reinstall on Thursday night. If they didn't work, it sounded like they were going to go back to using Majordomo instead of Mailman as the server. I haven't received anything so it is apparently not working yet. I'll inform the list if an when I hear something. Thanks for writing. Sue Bass Listserve Manager Pauline Marx wrote: > Hi Sue, I haven't gotten any Arid Gardener questions or > responses since you sent that test thingee out the other > day. Is there a problem or is everyone out in the pool > instead of in the garden ? Pauline --------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Pauline:
The last I heard from the University, they were going to run a reinstall on Thursday night.  If they didn't work, it sounded like they were going to go back to using Majordomo instead of Mailman as the server.  I haven't received anything so it is apparently not working yet.  I'll inform the list if an when I hear something.  Thanks for writing.

Sue Bass
Listserve Manager
Pauline Marx wrote:

Hi Sue,  I haven't gotten any Arid Gardener questions or responses since you sent that test thingee out the other day.  Is there a problem or is everyone out in the pool instead of in the garden ?  Pauline
--------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94-- From doryvan@aol.com Mon Aug 21 02:55:39 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 19:55:39 -0700 (MST) From: doryvan@aol.com doryvan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I miss getting the Arid_gardener email questons and answers. How do I 're-enlist'? From bilnanaz@cs.com Mon Aug 21 15:24:07 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:24:07 -0700 (MST) From: bilnanaz@cs.com bilnanaz@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When can Oleander be trimmed back severely? From RAM6260@AOL.COM Fri Aug 18 23:57:29 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 16:57:29 -0700 (MST) From: RAM6260@AOL.COM RAM6260@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have ficus trees, queen palms, roses and shrubs all on the same drip system. I am planning to put the trees and queen palms on a separate bubbler irrigation line that also has my citrus trees. Do you think this is a good plan. Thanks. From SMoore7627@aol.com Sat Aug 19 15:09:22 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 08:09:22 -0700 (MST) From: SMoore7627@aol.com SMoore7627@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grapefruit tree that is dying and the bark is peeling off and it is black underneath. I was wondering if you could tell me what is wrong. About half of the tree looks good but half of it is dead. Thanks From kaiotea@home.com Sat Aug 19 16:55:21 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 09:55:21 -0700 (MST) From: kaiotea@home.com kaiotea@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a saguaro cactus in my yard that is approx. 16-20 ft. tall and has two arms, both on the west side of the cactus. Over the past several years , it is noticeable that the cactus is continuing to grow taller. It has also taken on a distinctive "lean" to the west side where the arms are. Should I be concerned that this lean may someday result in the cactus falling over? If this could be a problem, what measures should be taken to correct it? From klmihocko@juno.com Mon Aug 21 16:04:59 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:04:59 -0700 (MST) From: klmihocko@juno.com klmihocko@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted pumpkins in July. They have been growing pretty well & have even been blossoming. My question is, shouldn't I be seeing some kind of melon growing by now? I have been fighting ants and gophers but I feel that I've been able to keep on top of them. If I'm not seeing any melons growing by now, am I wasting my time on the plants? Thanks, Kathy From tgjanddrj@hotmail.com Fri Aug 18 23:57:45 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 16:57:45 -0700 (MST) From: tgjanddrj@hotmail.com tgjanddrj@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to Surprise AZ. We have two citrus trees in our back yard. One a grapefruit and one an orange. They are 3 years old. How do I care for them. What must I do to have them produce jucy fruit. The grapefruits we have picked have been soft and not solid. They tasted fine, but had no density. From scold@accessus.net Mon Aug 21 05:32:02 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 22:32:02 -0700 (MST) From: scold@accessus.net scold@accessus.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, my name is Joyce and I'm a frustrated mom of a 13 year old 8th grader who is doing a leaf collection for school. We are having problems finding pictures of fruit trees so that we can identify them and their scientific names. Of course, we all know how to pick out apple trees, etc., but for the collection, we have to identify them exactly, and there are so many different kinds. Does anyone know a site or book where I can find this information???? I would really appreciate any help. Thanks, Joyce From WHEL2TH@aol.com Mon Aug 21 03:58:41 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 20:58:41 -0700 (MST) From: WHEL2TH@aol.com WHEL2TH@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to the "Valley of the Sun". After our house was built I had a landscaper provide trees and sod for us. We did not get much instruction on care for our grass, bushes, palm trees, and fruit trees. Now with this heat it appears much of the grass is turning brown (but we water), a few palm trees can barely stand straight up and are turning brown (but we water), and my gratefruit tree looks pretty bleak (but I water). Is there someone I can hire that can come to the house and give me information and instructions on caring for my yard? From cnations@earthlink.net Mon Aug 21 14:47:50 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 07:47:50 -0700 (MST) From: cnations@earthlink.net cnations@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My St. Augustine is dying one area and the area is slowly getting bigger. Bermuda is taking over the dead St. Augustine area so I pretty sure it's not a water problem, plus I've measured the water, and this area is getting the same as the rest of the yard. I have also fertilized with a 21-7-14 fertilizer. There is an occasional green St. Augustine blade in this area but very very few. I seem to remember a St. Augustine fungas that could cause this damage, but don't know what to do for it. Can you help? From momoftwo@home.com Mon Aug 21 06:22:16 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 23:22:16 -0700 (MST) From: momoftwo@home.com momoftwo@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is your email situation fixed? If so I'd like a referral to a definitive piece of literature on lawn maint.(bermuda)in the Phoenix area. I have huge bald spots. It was suggested that I spray diazinon. This makes me uncomfortable. How bad is this pesticide? Anything else I could try? I found 1 grub and some small homoptera? nymphs (little yellow/white) beneath the bald spots. All suggestions welcome. Thanks From N-Dschmier@msn.com Sat Aug 19 19:58:01 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 12:58:01 -0700 (MST) From: N-Dschmier@msn.com N-Dschmier@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Every tree we have planted in a particular spot has died. Originally there was a young Velvet Mesquite in the location planted by the original owner.We wanted a different type of tree there so we took it out and planted a Black Leaf Acacia in the Fall. It didn't grow much and after a few months the leaves started to look brown and the stems yellow the whole thing looked dead and we gave up on it. When we removed it there was some grey powdery-moldy looking stuff on the roots, so we were carefull not to use the old soil. We planted an Acacia Belliana in the same spot in April. Now the Belliana, has experienced a similar decline as the previous one but when we dug it up there was no grey powdery stuff. We try to not over-water or underwater, but with new plants and it being so hot this summer, it's hard to tell what to do. We really want the next tree we plant in this spot to survive. Could you please give us some insight as to what has been causing our problems? Thank You! From cjangel@att.net Sat Aug 19 17:44:57 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 10:44:57 -0700 (MST) From: cjangel@att.net cjangel@att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a weeping bottlebrush tree (callistemon viminalis) in the front of my house (N.E. exposure). It has been in for 5 years and there is alternately windy days that will affect the tree so it has been staked for all these years. I would like to prune the bottom limbs since the tree is heavier on one side than the other. This may balance the tree better. As long as I do not "top" the tree, is this recommend or will I be ruining the essential shape of the tree. Also, do you think this tree will ever be able to stand on its own? Thanks. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:34:31 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:34:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pest ID: Fungus Gnats? [RESEND due to my problems with server,] I only know fungus gnats as a pest of houseplants, because the soil is where the larva reside. Lacking houseplants, compost buckets and the like in the house, I wonder if you truly have fungus gnats. I have a strong suspicion it is some other pest. Unless you have container plants directly outside your doors and windows? I'm not sure what you meant by bombing your house 3x ....was this a professionally applied treatment following the firm's positive id of the problem? What did they say the insect was? One pest that can crop up from time to time in the kitchen, and which comes in with packages of dried rice, cereals, pasta dishes is weevils. They are tiny, but they clearly look like little beetles rather than gnats. If you think this is your problem, let me know if you need assistance with prevention and control. What I can suggest is that you bring some specimens in a jar, along with a write-up of the problem [they look and act like fungus gnats, but there are no houseplants, house was treated 3x with a particular chemical, etc.] to the Maricopa County Extension office, where a weekly diagnostic session deals with homeowner problems like yours. [4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener mpclever@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardenerHelp! I appear to have an infestation of fungus gnats, problem is, I have NO houseplants, aluminum can recycle bin and kitchen trash have been relocated 15 feet away from the house outside. All remidies I have read about all have to do with care of houseplants. I have no fruit out of the refrigerator, and I have cleaned every kitchen cabinet, including thoroughly under the sink (thinking it may be stagnent water)trying to find were they are nesting. I have also "bombed" my house three times in six weeks with NO improvement. Please help me, I have stopped cooking for my husband and children because I don't want the gnats in our food, and we are getting tired of eating out :) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:34:58 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:34:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Slug Management [RESENT due to my problems with server] Copper flashing [any home improvement store] is an option; other methods of control are listed on our site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/snail.htm One low tech but very effective way to rid yourself of these nighttime prowlers is to put out a few strategically placed boards or newspapers for them to hide under during the day. Manually remove them as they aggregate there. Your garden will also benefit by cleaning up all debris which provide additional 'habitat'. DE [not the pool stuff] is easily washed away. I don't know about the harm for pets/kids, as I always thought the issue was breathing it in. Since there are other options for you to try, hopefully my lack of knowledge on the topic of toxicity won't be a problem for you! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener momoftwo@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerSlugs have been eating my vegetable garden. What can I use to get rid of them which is safe around young kids and pets. Neither will walk in it as it is a raised bed. I've read that diatomaceous earth doesn't work when wet, can be a fatal if dogs lick paws covered with DE and it has a strong cancer warning. With all this in mind with caution can it still be used as a barrier? Where can you buy it? I read copper also works. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:36:08 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:36:08 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pond Attracting Bees [RESENT due to my server problems] As I've written to other folks with similar concerns about various other species which have suddenly shown up, water features will inevitably bring many forms of wildlife to your yard. The same damp ledge of rocks will also attract butterflies which will drink in a similar fashion. My best advice to you is to try to live with it, but eliminate other lures that will keep the insects to a minimal, manageable stage. What I'm particularly thinking of is to make sure the wasps don't nest somewhere in your immediate area and then never have the need to leave your yard. Limiting food sources is another option, but if you love flowers, hard not to expect insects. Speaking of bees, gardeners usually want to attract this dwindling commodity into our yards. Many of what I have in my urban Phoenix setting seem to be solitary bees [but I'm no expert on id], and I often work side by side with them in the beds. In all these years, I've never been stung, but if you are extremely allergic to stings, my cavalier attitude may not work for you. And if there is any question but that a swarm is building, get the heck out of there. Bottom line is that insect identification is critical to your comfort in the area. Guidance on this can be provided to you in the insect section of our publications list http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects as well as in the Entomology chapter of the online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Hope that this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maryjo Giliforte wrote: > Hi, > Again I call on you for some advice. I finally finished my pond and I > put in a water fall with rocks. The problem now is, I have bees at least > 8 or 10 hanging around the rocks on the water fall. I also have yellow > jackets floating in the pond getting water. Let me mention that the > weather is extremely hot here in Phoenix. Are they just hot and getting > water? What can I do to get rid of them, I have fish in the pond so I > can't use anything that would harm the fish. > > Thank you > Marrjo From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:36:28 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:36:28 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Haworthia [RESENT due to my server problems] I do not grow this succulent, but my reference material says that there are up to 80 varieties of this plant, and evidently a confusing number of names. A pattern of raised white spots is a common trait. Many become red to orange while dormant in hot weather, returning to green when they start to grow in cooler weather. They prefer diffuse sun or shade and offset freely into spreading clumps. The average 3 - 6" height would be ok for a terrarium, but I'm not sure that the plant's preference for cool makes it a suitable choice. As to the toxicity, your needs would best be served by a specialist in the field. I have two additional sources of info for you. First is to contact the Desert Botanical Garden during its hotline hours M-F, 10 - 11:30 at 480/941-1225. They may have info on toxicity, in addition to suggestions for terrarium succulents. Also, you might consider contacting the Az Herpetological society here. I'd give you the link in our website, but our server is down now and I can't access it. They often will help with referrals on reptiles other than snakes. Linda Guy Master Gardener evepanis@excite.com wrote: > arid_gardenerHi, My question may be alittle different; I have a large terrarium, very warm conditions, because this is a bearded dragon lizards home, Anyway I was told I could plant a succulant called Haworthia in his cage and this plant is perfectly safe if he were to eat any and it is a tuff plant as far as abuse and heat conditions in tank!!! Is this palnt safe and non-toxic ??? Would appreciate answer before I use it. Thankyou so much, regards, Eve Panis > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:36:56 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:36:56 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Apple Tree Care [RESENT due to my server problems] A great reference for you is the Fruit Tree chapter of the Master Gardener Manual, available online to you at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Anna is a nice variety because it is acceptably self-pollinating, although some material I have read suggests it can do even better with another apple tree, like Dorsett to cross-pollinate. These two are among the best adapted to the low desert elevations. Please note that of late we have had unusually warm winters and, if the minimum number of winter chilling hours is not attained, fruit production will drop for that year. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener toomanydrinksaway@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI recently received an Anna apple tree that I planted in my backyard. What are some do's and don'ts I should know about? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:37:11 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:37:11 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Request for Cool Season Vegetable Tips [RESENT due to my server problems] Like most of you, I usually enjoy a substantial bounty from my fall/winter/early spring garden. But I'm looking for some additional advice on a few vegetables where the production I'd hoped for continues to elude me. Beets: My daughter and I are crazy about 'em but I've had consistently low germination rates with the many varieties I've tried. When they do germinate, they just seem to poke along and don't amount to much. Only about 1/2 actually 'fill out'. Carrots: Similar to issue with beets. Could it be something with my soil texture since the common denominator here is root crop? I originally [6 years ago] hauled out the top foot of sod and soil and replaced it with topsoil, that is amended with at least 2" compost twice yearly, and occasionally soil sulfur. Our bunny, Miss Heidi, would be forever grateful for your advice. Cauliflower: Which variety does best for you? I have broccoli to die for, and my cabbages ain't half bad, but cauliflower production is always marginal at best. What's your secret? Brussel Sprouts: Can't seem to get the buds to exceed about the size of a nickel. Maybe that's all I can expect....how about yours? Many thanks for any and all stories you can share, privately or via the server. Linda From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 16:37:32 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 09:37:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Honeysuckle care [RESENT due to my server problems] Ms. Castner, You don't say that you have a problem with the Cape Honeysuckle [Tecomaria capensis] which is an evergreen vine or shrub from South Africa. It should thrive in our heat and is a moderate water consumer [needing a deep watering once or twice a month]. While it will accept some drought and hot winds, good drainage is a must. If it is doing poorly and the watering is adequate, I would persue the drainage factor. I used to keep mine tidied up with an occasional pruning in the summer. But if its taking a beating, I might wait until the heat abates this fall. The current canopy provides shade for the rest of the plant. As to the traditional honeysuckle [Loniceria, a completely different plant that is sometimes evergreen, sometimes deciduous], the reason I asked where you live is that I've not noticed these plants in the low desert elevations. [I'm intimately familiar with them having grown up with them in rural Maryland....still can't resist sucking the nectar from the bottom of the blossoms!] Many are not considered adapted to our zone 13, according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, which I suggest you review [p.360]. It would help you to identify the particular variety of lonicera that is in your yard, and it's special needs. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Ellie Castner wrote: > I dont know the exactly name of the honeysuckles...one is. I believe, a Cape > Honeysuckle (the one with orange trumpet flowers) and the other has fragrant > yellow and white flowers (the type I remember my mother growing in East). > Hope you can advise me. > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Guy > To: bunyldy@worldnet.att.net > Date: Thursday, August 03, 2000 9:42 PM > Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >Where are you located and do you have more specifics on the variety? > > > >bunyldy@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> Question about honeysuckle vines. I have a "regular" vine (the one that > produces the fragrant yellow & white flowers). It bloomed beautfully in the > spring but now there are few leaves & mostly dried limbs. Should I prune it > back, how much & when? Thank you for your response. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > From George85358@Hotmail.com Mon Aug 21 20:52:49 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 13:52:49 -0700 (MST) From: George85358@Hotmail.com George85358@Hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you control leaf cutter ants? Is it the same as for regular ants? From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 01:10:46 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > Linda From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 02:52:40 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 19:52:40 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] re pantry pests While this response is not a gardening response, I thought I'd pass this on in case anyone else was afraid of harming birds with uncooked rice. I located this at an Urban Legends page. Uncooked, milled rice is no more harmful to birds than rice in the field, Cheesman said. The Curator of Ornithology at the University of California at Berkeley agrees. "It's a myth. There is no reason why birds, including small songbirds, can't eat rice," said Ned Johnson, a professor of biology at Berkeley who lectures frequently on the food and feeding of birds. Many churchs and reception halls have rules prohibiting the throwing of confetti or rice. These rules work to keep the property clean so that the next happy couple doesn't get its send-off amid the leavings of the previous pair. Confetti is notoriously hard to clean up -- not even vacuuming a lawn will return it to pristine condition. Rice poses a unique danger. Not to birds, though -- to people. Scattered on a hard surface (such as the steps of a church or a dance floor) it puts anyone who walks across that surface at risk of taking a nasty spill. Far better to prohibit rice throwing at a wedding than to end up with an injured guest. Don't do it for the birds, do it for the inlaws. > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From kffrmw88@mindspring.com Tue Aug 1 01:55:34 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: kffrmw88@mindspring.com kffrmw88@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the tops of tomatoes split? also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? thanks, From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:34:27 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:34:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flood of maillist posts The University is working on the listserve. I'll forward your note to them. Please bear with them, there has been an ongoing problem they are trying to solve. Sue Bass Master Gardener, List serve manager Nancy Eilers-Hughes wrote: > You've got a major problem with your listserver, if you haven't > noticed. I've gotten 150+ DIGEST posts in the last couple of hours. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:38:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:38:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Problems! We are getting messages from very unhappy subscribers complaining of hundreds of repeated messages being sent to their addresses. Please advise. Sue Bass Listserve Manager From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From edrood@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 1 03:59:55 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 20:59:55 -0700 (MST) From: edrood@worldnet.att.net edrood@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There is a tree in my backyard which is drying up and getting pale. Yellowing. The leaves are broad and similar to a desert willow but it is not a desert willow. Is it getting too much water if I am watering it for one hour on drip each day or is it already dead? Please send names of varieties similar to a desert willow and any possible remedies for possible ailments. From marketresource@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 12:33:46 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 05:33:46 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 04:35:28 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 21:35:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: repeat, repeat, repeat What exactly have you been receiving? Please let me know and I will forward it to the University. They are currently working on some problems we have been having with the listserve. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Serve Manager KSTMetal@aol.com wrote: > Are we now being spammed with the arid gardener e-mail? Again, we need to > repeat how to use it as it is terribly time consuming to have the messages > repeated over and over in the body of the text. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 16:52:26 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 09:52:26 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Rice [for the birds!] I wish this was my experience...it would sure be a great way to manage the abundance of pigeons in our neighborhood!!!!! Actually the experts are NOT death on the practice of throwing rice. Indeed, several indicate it is a myth/urban legend. And remember, I'm not talking about doing so regularly, but just tossing pest-laden products. I particularly liked one person's comment that his mom used to tell him the same thing about eating uncooked macaroni, and he's still around! Wildbirds regularly glean southern rice fields, too. Check out the following for more... http://www.kalmbach.com/birders/askbirders/askbirders.html http://www.snopes.com/weddings/horrors/birdrice.htm Thanks for the reply, I had a good time with this one. Heck, I even found designer rices to toss.... I particularly enjoyed the suggestion that one release butterflies or doves for a novel approach to the wedding's finale. Too bad, I'm already hitched. Linda Guy Master Gardener Mapgoddess@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it > at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with > weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lucy@cyberback.com Tue Aug 1 16:14:08 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 09:14:08 -0700 (MST) From: lucy@cyberback.com lucy@cyberback.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been a master gardener in Arkansas for three years. Am I automatically going to be a master gardener in Az, or am I expected to go through all the training? From emardick@brg.com Tue Aug 1 17:41:51 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 10:41:51 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] emails Why am I receiving emails dated before August 1 today (August 1)? From aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Aug 1 17:11:59 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 10:11:59 -0700 (MST) From: Aaryn Olsson aaryn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Digest problems Dear arid_gardener list subscriber, I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please send me one copy of the message. Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. Sincerely, Aaryn Olsson mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Aug 1 18:06:22 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 11:06:22 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [AG] Digest problems That is not the case. I am not a digest user. Although I did not receive 150 as another user did, I did receive 4 or 5 copies of the same emails. It seems to have stopped now though. alan Aaryn Olsson wrote: > arid_gardenerDear arid_gardener list subscriber, > > I apologize for the extraordinary amount of mail you may have received. I > think it was only the digest members that recived the duplicates, but if > that's not the case, please let me know by forwarding a copy of the > duplicate message to mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu. > > In any case, I have identified a problem with the digests and have taken > action to correct it. In looking at the error logs, the problem appears > to be fixed, as of "Aug 01 10:05:25 2000." If you receive messages in > error with a time/date stamp later than 10:05:25 2000, August 1, please > send me one copy of the message. > > Thanks for your patience and again I apologize for the inconvenience. > > Sincerely, > Aaryn Olsson > mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From tkotanch@hotmail.com Tue Aug 1 19:09:04 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 12:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tkotanch@hotmail.com tkotanch@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am a definate novice when it comes to planting in Arizona. But I have to ask a stupid question. How often should I water plants in the summer. I've gotten answers from twice a day to every other day. I have planted bogenvelias, lantana, Mexican primrose, etc. Also, how can I tell if I'm overwatering or not watering enough? Please help! Tom From EnvConnections@yahoo.com Tue Aug 1 20:59:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 13:59:49 -0700 (MST) From: EnvConnections@yahoo.com EnvConnections@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have established roses on the east side behind a 3 foot patio wall. They look just awful. I have NOT mulched this year because of a horrible roach problem in our yard. Could I cut the roses back now, below the wall? What else can I do? From marybuck@uswest.net Tue Aug 1 23:19:51 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 16:19:51 -0700 (MST) From: marybuck@uswest.net marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am wondering why I have received over 400 messages from aridgardener on my e-mail today.This has really tied up my e-mail. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:10 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Unknowm tree dying Your tree is probably dying because it is not getting enough water. Since I don't know what the tree is I can't give you exact guidelines, I can however give you approximations that will help keep the tree alive unless it is too far gone now. Right away place a hose under that tree that is set to run slow and leave it all night. Then adjust your time clock to water that tree and any other trees you have once a week and apply enough water to penetrate to a depth of 3 feet plus. You can determine the depth by using a steel bar, after irrigating the bar will penetrate the soil easily to the depth you have watered. As the weather cools increase the time between irrigations until winter when you should be watering trees about once a month. Checkout this website on watering trees and plants at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Insects and disease seldom attack healthy trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:19 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:19 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bottletrees It is very common for the limbs especially the lower limbs on a bottle tree to grow horizontally, so nothing to worry about. I think that you gave me a clue to the reason that one bottle tree does well while an adjoining one does not do well and that clue is that you have caliche in your yard. If you planted the trees you probably know whether or not there was caliche in the ground where the poor tree is planted. If the caliche is shallow there may not be enough depth for a good root foundatiion, or the caliche could retain water in a basin where the roots are, and the Bottle Tree does not like wet feet.. The planting hole could contain construction debris. A leaking gas main could cause severe problems. Has there been any weed killer used nearby? Have the trees been over pruned? Have all the trees received the same amount of water? Is the soil uniform through out the yard? Do you have much sandy soil? The bottle tree is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot,and this is the time of year to be on the lookout for it. These are a few of the many things that could cause problems. I would be concerned about your irrigation interval of once a month in the summer if you live in the low desert. This has been a really hot year, and people are loosing lots of trees . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:18 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 2 00:25:15 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 20:25:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer Rose care Your questions are similiar to dozens of others who are attempting to grow roses in the low desert. Do not prune anything off your roses except the spent blooms until you do tour fall pruning in September. I've copied my responce to other persons and hope that is helpful to you. What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 01:46:54 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 18:46:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: arid e-mail list --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer: No, this is not normal. There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ. We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected. If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus. Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list. In general its a great list and great place to learn and share gardening info. Sue Bass Master Gardener Listserve Manager J Nabors wrote: > I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. > Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am > new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a > day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please > inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors --------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jennifer:
No, this is not normal.  There was some sort of glitch yesterday with the computers at the University of AZ.  We were advised today that as of about 10am this morning the problem had been corrected.   If you experience any thing else that doesn't seem right to you let us know and we will get in touch with the computer gurus.  Sorry about the mess, especially with you being new to the list.  In general its a great list and  great place to learn and share gardening info.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Listserve Manager

J Nabors wrote:

I received about 900 e-mails from the arid_gardener today. Is this typical or didI get every email ever sent? (I am new on the email list). How many usually are sent in a day? I am thinking there was some sort of mistake. Please inform me.Thanks Jennifer Nabors
--------------01663CACF69B6FA825C5776B-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:16:02 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:16:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit More on the topic of rice [which is after all the seed of its particular plant] for our feathered friends. Linda --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 5374 invoked by uid 0); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (204.147.80.26) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: (qmail 3678 invoked from network); 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from mail.birdwatchersdigest.com (209.51.216.60) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 1 Aug 2000 18:41:34 -0000 Received: from [192.168.18.20] [206.222.4.41] by mail.birdwatchersdigest.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-5.05) id ABE89D8B026A; Tue, 01 Aug 2000 14:50:16 -0400 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 14:50:27 -0400 Message-Id: From: "Bill Thompson, III" To: "Linda Guy by way of Bird Watcher's Digest" Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Sender: editor@mail.birdwatchersdigest.com In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: Feeding Rice/Cereal Products Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >How harmful is it to occasionally disperse some of these products [rice, >couscous packages] to the neighboring birds? I'm in the Phoenix metro >area, and from time to time I will dump the contents of a >weevil-infested box out for the birds. Pigeons and dove, rarely quail, >but mostly urban songbirds and pigeons. This is hardly a regular >practice. Thanks for your response. Not harmful at all. Don't worry about it. Bill T. -- Bill Thompson, III Editor Bird Watcher's Digest http://www.birdwatchersdigest.com P.O. Box 110 Marietta, OH 45750 USA 1-800-879-2473 --------------F44F132999900A2DC3322B59-- From marybuck@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 00:26:34 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 17:26:34 -0700 From: mary marybuck@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs HELP! I have recieved over 600 copies of this news letter. I don't know if someone there is playing a joke or if something is wrong with your server. Hopefully it's not a virus of somesort. They just don't stop coming!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 6:26 PM Subject: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #252 - 13 msgs > arid_gardenerSend Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > arid_gardener digest > > Today's Topics: > > 1. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 2. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 4. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (fscapellit@mindspring.com) > 6. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bonnford@amug.org) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (archsoul@home.com) > 8. Fwd: (Marikelly Block) > 9. YUCCA (Sue Hakala) > 10. RE: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Ursula Miller) > 11. Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available (Olin Miller) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu) > 13. Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water (Ursula Miller) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

ont > size=3D3 color=3Dred face=3D"Bradley Hand ITC"> style=3D'font-size:12.0pt; > mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Bradley Hand = > ITC";color:red'>Ursula > Miller, Peoria

> >

color=3Dblack> !supportEmptyParas]>  color=3Dblack> style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><= > /p> > >

> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:24:57 -0700 (MST) > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I sent a message to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu........but never received an answer. Is anybody there? > > Please help me. > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:28:42 -0700 (MST) > From: bonnford@amug.org > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Night-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:24:41 -0700 (MST) > From: archsoul@home.com > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Are all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:20:19 -0700 > To: Arid_Gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: Marikelly Block > Subject: [AG] Fwd: > > Can anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Sue Hakala" > To: "ARCHIVES" > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:16:33 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960" > Subject: [AG] YUCCA > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with > your yucca. If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most plants = > aren't > looking their best right about now. The extreme heat and lack of rain = > has > seriously stressed many plants. It might be that your plant is = > sunburned. > If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place somehow. It does > sound stressed. If you haven't been watering, I would suggest a slow, = > deep > watering. I use an "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter = > of > the plant. This is a black hose made from recycled tires available at > places like WalMart, Target, etc. I water for 3-4 hours very slowly. = > The > water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches. Check this by pushing a = > metal > rod/long screwdriver or something into the ground. If the water doesn't = > get > to this depth, the roots can't get at it. So long and slow is the way = > to > go. I water my plants the first of the month, so I don't forget, in = > June, > July, August, and September assuming that we haven't had enough rain. = > Don't water more than this as the soil needs to dry out thoroughly = > between waterings or your plant may start to rot from too much moisture. = > Good luck! > -----Original Message----- > From: fscapellit@mindspring.com > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >arid_gardener > >Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 > inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. > > > >What is my problem?? > > > >We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on > the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from = > them. > > > >Thank you. > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >Archives - > > > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="iso-8859-1" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > > > > > http-equiv=3DContent-Type> > > > >
From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong = > > with
your yucca.  If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most = > plants=20 > aren't
looking their best right about now.  The extreme heat and = > lack of=20 > rain has
seriously stressed many plants.  It might be that your = > plant is=20 > sunburned.
If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place=20 > somehow.  It does
sound stressed.   If you haven't = > been=20 > watering, I would suggest a slow, deep
watering.  I use an=20 > "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter of
the = > > plant.  This is a black hose made from recycled tires available=20 > at
places like WalMart, Target, etc.  I water for 3-4 hours very = > > slowly.  The
water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches.  = > Check=20 > this by pushing a metal
rod/long screwdriver or something into the=20 > ground.  If the water doesn't get
to this depth, the roots can't = > get at=20 > it.  So long and slow is the way to
go.  I water my plants = > the=20 > first of the month, so I don't forget, in June,
July, August, and = > September=20 > assuming that we haven't had enough rain.  Don't water more than = > this as=20 > the soil needs to dry out thoroughly between waterings or your plant may = > start=20 > to rot from too much moisture.  Good luck!
-----Original=20 > Message-----
From: href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com = > < href=3D"mailto:fscapellit@mindspring.com">fscapellit@mindspring.com&g= > t;
To:=20 > href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > =20 > < href=3D"mailto:arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= > >
Date:=20 > Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort = > WWW=20 > page


>arid_gardener
>Our yuccas' leaves are turning=20 > yellow.  There's yellow at the tips (2
inches)or yellow started = > in mid=20 > leaf and growing larger.
>
>What is my = > problem??
>
>We=20 > have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = > on
the=20 > level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from=20 > them.
>
>Thank=20 > you.
>
>
>
>_____________________________________= > __________
>Arid_gardener=20 > mailing list
> href=3D"mailto:Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu">Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
> href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener">http://Ag.A= > rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives=20 > - < href=3D"http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/">http://Ag.Arizona= > .Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>
>
>
TML> > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960-- > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , > Subject: RE: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's > Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, > by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and > Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in > the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each > plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and > maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com > Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > arid_gardener > please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, > mesquite, ironwoods > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > Reply-To: "Olin Miller" > From: "Olin Miller" > To: "Arid Gardener List" , > > Cc: > Subject: Fw: [AG] Grape Vines Available > Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 18:10:46 -0700 > Organization: > charset="iso-8859-1" > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy" > > Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available > > > > arid_gardenerDoes anyone recall the person who inquired recently about > grapevines? > > [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby > > at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually > > looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. > > > > While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, > > container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this > > year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. > > > > Linda > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) > From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu > To: > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My question is very much the same as one which > was asked in your site, but didn't seem to > have been fully answered. > Why would one bottle tree look fine, > and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? > These trees are about 6 years old. > > What would cause older bottle trees' largest > branches to become more and more horizontal > to the ground? There are some healed cracks and > dark coloration at the point where the main > branches divide from the trunk on these older > trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. > We are getting worried about them. > > The soil is pretty caliche. We have been > watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, > about once a month. > > Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't > mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree > to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is > a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help > you can give. > > Thanks! > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: > Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 > boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0" > Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit > > Hi, folks - Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older > leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it > up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the > soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little > rainfall to wash away the salt. > > My questions are: > > Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt > come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep > watering fix it and, if so, aren't I also washing away good nutrients > besides the salt? > > I've been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of > nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need - though this > nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves > means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins > means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with > items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown's back yard? Answer: Mr. > Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I'm not talking lollipops). > > Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think > that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., "made > in/for Arizona") better than the national products or is this just marketing > hype? > > And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I > notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good > watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don't exist in > the hose water? > > Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. > > Ursula Miller, Peoria > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 > Content-Type: text/html; > charset="Windows-1252" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > > xmlns:w=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" = > xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40"> > > > charset=3Dwindows-1252"> > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Hi, = > folks =96 Recently > some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = > leaves > turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = > When > I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = > of salt > in the soil.=A0 It said that = > this occurs > primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = > salt. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>My = > questions > are:=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Is this = > a common > occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 > Where does the salt come from? yes">=A0 > Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? style=3D"mso-spacerun: > yes">=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = > washing away > good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 = >

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>I=92ve = > been feeding > the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = > and all > the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = > gets > very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = > leaves > means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = > etc.) style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = > Clue game > with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0=A0Answer: style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = > lollipops).

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Which = > brings up > another question (sorry to be so long-winded): style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as > region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = > national products > or is this just marketing hype?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>And I = > have yet one > more question now that I have your attention. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 > color=3Dblack > face=3DWingdings> style=3D'font-family:Wingdings;mso-ascii-font-family:Arial; > mso-hansi-font-family:Arial;mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:W= > ingdings'> style=3D'mso-char-type:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family:Wingdings'>J<= > /span> class=3DEmailStyle15> style=3D'font-family:Arial'> style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 I notice that plants are happier = > after a > good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = > that don=92t > exist in the hose water?

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial>Thanks = > for bearing > with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = > Have a > nice day.

> >

color=3Dblack > face=3DArial> !supportEmptyParas]> 

> >

ont > size=3D3 color=3Dred face=3D"Bradley Hand ITC"> style=3D'font-size:12.0pt; > mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Bradley Hand = > ITC";color:red'>Ursula > Miller, Peoria

> >

color=3Dblack> !supportEmptyParas]>  color=3Dblack> style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><= > /p> > >

> > > > > > ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest_______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 02:38:58 2000 Date: Tue, 01 Aug 2000 19:38:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Little Pumpkins I can't be entirely sure, but I suspect your problem is similar to ones with other squash plants. With little or no pollination, the plant might still produce a very small fruit that is not viable for long. See the relevant discussion in our Timely Tips column for July at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm The tremendous heat does not help the pollination process. Linda Guy Marikelly Block wrote: > arid_gardenerCan anyone answer this question? > Thanks Kelly > > >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) > >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) > >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 > >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: christie youngdale > >Subject: > > > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and > >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have > >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > > > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > > > >thank you, christie > > > **************************** > Marikelly Block > Applications Systems Analyst Senior > Cooperative Extension > University of Arizona > 301 Forbes Bldg. > Tucson, AZ 85721 > 520-626-9174 > mblock@ag.arizona.edu > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 05:23:49 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 22:23:49 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe ----- Original Message ----- From: > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your location? Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:00:38 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:00:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 10:24 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Are all dates from Palms edible? May be edible but not necessarily palatable. Date palms for date production are propagated vegetatively by harvesting offshoots from a parent. Many of the "ornamental" date palms in landscapes grew from discarded seeds of unknown parentage. We have one such tree that bears excellent dates but don't know what kind. Date palms are dioecious (male and female flowers on different trees). and need to be hand-pollinated to produce decent fruit. Fresh pollen from flowers collected within a few hours after the flower sheath opens should be used. The female flowers should be pollinated as soon as possible after the sheath splits open (within 1-3 days). >When are dates harvested? Timing depends on the variety. Developing fruit is usually protected by covering with a waterproof paper protector. When the fruit starts to ripen, the flesh becomes soft and turns dark brown. The degree of ripeness for staring to pick depends on the type (soft, semi-soft, etc). >Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Probably not. > Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? This is the easiest part. We just use a shallow box (like a pop case), line the bottom with a paper towel, put in the fruit, cover it with cheesecloth from Frye's Supermarket (to protect from birds and bugs), and put it in the sun. Should turn them daily if you don't use a box with a screen or hardware cloth bottom which would allow for air circulation. We just finished drying grapes. Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 06:11:36 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:11:36 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" >Hi, folks – Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the salt. My questions are: >s this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Yes. >Where does the salt come from? Most irrigation water comes from the Colorado River or Salt River drainages and contains lots of minerals. When the water evaporates, it leaves salt residues. >Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Yes. > Does deepwatering fix it and, if so, aren’t I also washing away good nutrients besides the salt? Deep watering leaches out the salts and also some nutrients. >... >...Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., “made in/for Arizona”) better than the national products or is this just marketing hype? Depends. In some cases, e.g., many fertilizers also contain sulfur s well as some of the trace minerals our soil needs. >... >...Are there nutrients in the rain that don’t exist in the hose water? No. But rain water is better because it doesn't contain all of the dissolved salts. (Why do you have rain in Peoria when we don't have any in N. Phoenix?). Olin From Alelopathy@aol.com Wed Aug 2 10:56:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 06:56:39 EDT From: Alelopathy@aol.com Alelopathy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Email I've just received over 900 Arid-gardener Digest messages. Do you think something went amiss? ? ? From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Aug 2 14:26:50 2000 Date: Wed, 02 Aug 2000 07:26:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Date Palms In addition to Olin's response, if you are interested, the arboretum at ASU has a date palm curator [480-965-8137]. Historic, former commercial date gardens here in the valley remain in the Date Palm Manor district of Tempe [Khadrawy, Hayany and Deglet Noor dates] and in my own neighborhood of Arcadia [Black Sphinx]. At last year's Master Gardener Conference, the Arboretum did a good presentation on date garden care, month by month. You could call our MG Desk at the Maricopa County Extension Office and ask if someone would xerox the 4-5 pages out of the conference proceedings manual and mail it to you. You might have to pay a nominal charge for this. [602-470-8086 ext.301] While you are on the phone with them, you might ask if they have an old home horticulture pub laying around that they could also copy. It's #8330 Growing and Processing Dates, and although it is not circulated any longer, many of us who did our training a while ago have this publication in our manuals. This pub suggests that dates picked before fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temp between 95 and 120 degrees F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured/dehydrated to the point where spoilage will not occur. Because you said your dates were still green, I'm not sure this would work in your situation. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener archsoul@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerAre all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:34:41 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:34:41 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My pumpkins and squash develop a condition were the veins of the leaves slowly turn gray. This leads to a netted appearance in the leaf as the gray spreads. Finally the leaf is totally gray and brittle. What causes this condition? I’ve tried using various fertilizers in the past to no avail. Gratefully, Chris Webb From lindasbw@aol.com Wed Aug 2 06:23:40 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Aug 2000 23:23:40 -0700 (MST) From: lindasbw@aol.com lindasbw@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote dormancy? Gratefully, Chris Webb From maryfergus@aol.com Wed Aug 2 15:15:32 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 08:15:32 -0700 (MST) From: maryfergus@aol.com maryfergus@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our two yr old Desert Museum Palo Verde tree blew down in the wind; the roots were not exposed; nothing broken; It has been pushed back up and staked well. MY QUESTION: What can we do to help its shock? Water it deeply??? (the ground was wet) Can we put anything on it to help ?? B1 solution??? Super-Thrive?? Miracle grow? Thanks very much for any help you can give us. This is a beautiful tree!!! Mary McArdle (623) 975 0430 From stevekop@hotmail.com Wed Aug 2 17:52:57 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 10:52:57 -0700 (MST) From: stevekop@hotmail.com stevekop@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have about a half acre St. Augustine lawn near downtown Tempe, where we have flood irrigigation. Within the last few months, the St. Augustine is dying in patches. It first turns brown, then dies entirely. Bermuda and assorted weeds tend to fill the dead areas. I recently read about St. Augustine Decline in Florida. Is that virus common in Arizona? Is it likely that is the cause? If so, is there any cure or preventative measures? Is there any other likely cause? Thanks for the help. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 18:00:41 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 11:00:41 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Grape Problems Recommend you obtain Pub. MC 59, "Growing Backyard Grapes" from the Cooperative Extension. It addresses your questions but is too lengthy to reproduce here. Either stop by the extension off ice or order it by sending your request, and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Insect pests described therein are variegated leaf hoppers, Western grape leaf skeletonizers, and grape flea beetles. If the your plants are well established, they should survive. They would be losing their leaves in a few months anyway regardless of what you do and there won't be any wouldn't be any significant new growth this year. Just keep the roots from drying out but not too wet. Should leaf out again in February. But be sure to get a copy of MC59. ----- Original Message ----- From: >My grapes have been devastated by what appears to be some form of leafhopper. This insect is ¼ in. (or less) long, upright wings, wedge shaped body, strong jumper and flyer – looks kind of like a tiny brownish mottled grasshopper. Are grapes known to be target plants for these insects? > > At this time, most of the grape leaves have turned brown. There are a few green leaves on the ends of some vines but insects are still present. I have removed all fruit even though the Flame grapes never fully ripened. Both the Flame and Thomson Seedless tended to loose moisture and sunburn (turn to raisins) before ripening although the Flame were hurt worse. What is the best way to keep these plants alive so they can leaf again next year? If I promote re-leafing now, should I still withhold water in the fall to promote .dormancy? From marypatter@aol.com Wed Aug 2 20:19:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: marypatter@aol.com marypatter@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I discourage birds from landing in my yard, drinking pool water and making a mess all over the deck, waterfall, etc.? From ClaireASP@aol.com Wed Aug 2 21:08:02 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:08:02 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sister-in-law from So. Calif. just gave me a plant called Duranta. It is in a five gal.pot, and about 41/2 ft. tall, on a stake. I looked this up in my Sunset Western Garden book, and it said that it is okay in our zone 13. Also says it can take full sun. Do you agree with that? Should I plant it in the ground, in sun or shade; or plant it in a nice pot and keep it on my shaded patio. If I plant it in the ground,should I put a trellis behind it, or keep it staked as it is now? I hope that someone is familiar with this plant and can offer me suggestions on how to properly care for this plant. It is such a neat looking plant and I don't want to loose it! I have lost enough plants this summer already!!! In case you need to know what area I live in, it is No. Scottsdale. I have one more question. I had a 36" box Shamel Ash planted two weeks ago, I know I shouldn't have planted it at this time of the year! Anyway, within a few days all the leaves completely dried up. I have deep watered it every day like the guy at Moon Valley told me to do. Do you think my tree is dead, or might it come back? I have a three month warranty on it; but will I be able to tell at that time that it is actually dead? Sorry to bother you; and thanks for all the help that you have given me in the past.You guys do a great job!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 20:39:39 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 13:39:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe Correction: Catfacing is thought to be a blossoming problem and, therefore, occurs at the blossom end, not at the stem. Stem end splitting is probably caused by the hot weather causing the skin to toughen and then split when irrigated. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "kathleen williams" To: "Olin Miller" Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 8:19 AM Subject: Re: [AG] Tomatoes: Split, Small, Not Ripe > Thanks a million for the info.to answer the below,no I am not in desert/no I > did not plant same kind I planted before/they did not have it on hand,This > is the Parks Whopper,the other were German girl (Queen)I did have to plant > late this yr.too cool here,Live/learn,in Ga.. >... > ----- Original Message -----> From: Olin Miller > > > > Why do the tops of tomatoes split? > > > > There is a condition tomato people call "catfacing" (looks like a cat's > > face to some people) in which cracks radiate from the stem. These > > malformations are the result of incomplete separation of cells during the > > early stages of flower and fruit development. Adverse effects seem to be > > worst when both day and night temperatures are high or when both are low. > > Occurs more with the beefsteak types. Pretty common with Brandywine. The > > cracks usually heal over and the tomato is otherwise okay. > > > > > also why is my tomatoes growing soo slow/want get ripe?the vine is 15 > > ft.tall,has some fruit on it,I have done everything I know,I am a farmer,2 > > yrs.ago I grew some about 2 pounds each,no luck since then,can you help? > > > > If you can grow 2 lb. tomatoes, you are probably not in the low desert. > > Some things to consider: Where is your location? What variety did you > > plant that grew to 2 lbs. last year? Did you plant the same variety this > > year? Did you plant at the same time as last year. Do you know what the > > recommended planting dates and recommended cultivars are for your > location? > > > > Olin From clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 21:25:01 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:25:01 -0700 From: Cindy Stuckey clstuckey@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of virus. Thank you for any suggestions ... Cindy From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:26:16 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:26:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: Fw: [AG] Dates ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Are all dates from Palms edible? Following is the text portion of Cooperative Extension Pub. 8330, "Growing and Processing Dates". Should answer all of your questions. -Olin ============================================= The University of Arizona. College of Agriculture. Tucson, Arizona 85721 Lowell F. True and Allan D. Boettcher, Agricultural Extension Agents, Maricopa County Dates have been grown since ancient times and are an important food source in desert regions of North Africa and Southwest Asia. Dates were first grown in America from seed imported by Jesuit missionaries. The first commercial date garden was planted in 1912 and between 1920 and 1945, about 500 acres of commercial date palms were grown in Arizona. Summer rainfall proved a serious hazard to commercial production in the Salt River Valley and most of the palms have been destroyed or the acreage has been subdivided for housing because of unprofitable operation. Many of the palms remaining at homesites are productive and property owners can harvest the fruit. Because the date palm grows only in the desert, it commands a great deal of local public interest. Varieties Dates may be classed as soft, semi-dry or dry {bread) dates. Soft dates have soft flesh, high moisture content, low sugar content and are highly perishable. Conversely, semi-dry varieties have firm flesh, low moisture content, high sugar content and may be kept for weeks or months at room temperature with little deterioration. Dry dates have a high sugar content but are undesirable for fresh consumption because of their hard, dry flesh. The following soft and semi-dry varieties commonly are found growing around Arizona homes: Halawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening mid-season to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Hayany -Soft, large size; dark red, ripening early to deep purple; highly susceptible to rain damage, ferments easily. Khadrawy -Soft, medium size; yellow, ripening early to amber; rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Khustawy -Soft, small size; yellow, ripening mid-season to light brown, rain tolerant. Maktoom -Soft, large size; yellow, ripening late to amber; somewhat rain tolerant, but tends to shrivel. Medjool -Semi-dry, large size; orange-yellow, ripening mid-season to reddish-brown; rain tolerant. This variety currently is being planted most widely in Arizona, thus offshoots are difficult to obtain. Zahidi -Semi-dry, small size; bright yellow, ripening late to light brown; rain tolerant. Removing and Planting Offshoots Date palms are dioecious, each tree being specifically male or female. When date palms are propagated from seeds, about one-half will be males and the females rarely resemble the parent. Propagation from an offshoot is the best way to start a young palm capable of producing high quality fruit. Since offshoots are not commonly available from retail nurseries, the best source is from established trees in neighborhood yards. Select for transplanting offshoots 10 to 12 inches in diameter and weighing 35 to 70 pounds. Since growth is poor in winter months, plant offshoots in April or May to take advantage of the warm summer growth period. Remove the lower leaves and tie the remaining 10 or 12 younger leaves together with twine {not wire) to make offshoot removal easier. Remove the soil at the base of the offshoot to expose the roots and locate the tough stalk-like connection to the parent palm. If it is not connected to the parent plant the "offshoot" is a seedling and not desirable as a transplant. A special date palm chisel is required to sever the connection and to cut the roots at the offshoot base. The chisel blade is a hardened steel plate 9 x 4 x 1 inches in size, ground sharp and welded to the end of a 48-inch steel rod 11/4 inches in diameter . Successful offshoot removal requires two persons, one to hold the chisel, the other to drive it with a 16-pound hammer. After separating offshoot from parent, prune the tied leaves about 36 inches above the offshoot trunk. Wrap with wet burlap until ready to plant. The offshoots that develop above the soil line will not have any roots and will be more difficult to transplant satisfactorily. Plant the offshoot in a prepared hole in the center of a basin five feet in diameter and 10 inches deep. Work the soil carefully around the base and roots while water is running into the hole. Air pockets in the. soil beneath the offshoot can be fatal. If more than one palm is to be planted, space them at least 30 feet apart. Keep the soil moist around the offshoot for at least six weeks after planting by running three inches of water into the basin every three to eight days, depending on soil type and weather conditions. During the remainder of the summer months, fill the basin slowly every two weeks. Irrigation Established date palms are capable of surviving long periods without irrigation but respond to regular deep watering. To maintain maximum growth, the soil should be thoroughly wetted to a depth of six to eight feet once during the winter and spring followed by summer irrigations at intervals of 20 to 25 days. It will take approximately 8 inches of water to moisten the top 6 to 8 feet or 4 to 5 inches of water to wet the top 3 or 4 feet. Damage to ripening fruit by late summer rains and accompanying high humidity is more severe if the palms have been recently irrigated. Best fruit quality is obtained when the trees are under moderate moisture stress during ripening. Desirable soil moisture conditions may be difficult to maintain in the home yard where there are lawns and other plants requiring scheduled irrigations. Fertilization Date palms have deep spreading root systems capable of foraging widely for nutrients. Maximum growth and fruiting will continue for many years in a moderately fertile soil without additional fertilization. Annual application of barnyard manure is an excellent way to maintain the soil fertility. Application of moderate amounts of commercial fertilizer is advisable for soils known to be low in fertility. Leaf Removal About 100 leaves are required to support a normal date crop. Since about 20 new leaves are produced each year, no more than 20 should be removed at anyone time. If there are fewer than 100 leaves on the palm, remove only the dead leaves. The number of leaves can be estimated by counting the number of tiers of leaves, moving in a slightly spiral direction from the lowest to the highest, and multiplying by 13. It is advisable to cut spines from the leaf midribs to prevent personal injury during pollinating and harvesting operations. Pollination Since male flowers are borne on separate trees, hand pollination is necessary to insure a good fruit set. Some male trees bloom as late as January; some female trees as early as mid-February. Most male and female trees normally will flower during March and April. Collect male flowers within a few hours after the sheath (Figure 3) splits open, to prevent pollen loss. Store in a cool place. For the first few weeks a newly opened male flower can be hung upside down in a cool, airy area until needed. One must prevent mold from attacking the moisture laden pollen. Before pollinating, remove about 1/3 to 1/2 of the female flower strands from the center of each flower cluster. Cut three or four strands of florets from the male flower and place among the female flower strands within one to three days after its sheath splits open. The pollen-bearing male florets may be held in place by tying the female flower with twine (Figure 4), using a slip knot which gradually will loosen as the fruit development proceeds. Fruit Thinning If fruit is not thinned, palms tend to over-produce, causing fewer flowers to develop the following year. An average palm tree with 100 leaves can easily support seven to eight of the approximately 18 flower clusters that may develop during its flowering period. When developing berries reach 1/4 to 1/2 inch diameter, adjust the fruit load accordingly, removing the smallest clusters first. Fruit size can be increased by removing at the same time fruit strands from the center of the re- maining clusters, individual berries from the strands or both. In general, removal of 40% to 60% of the berries from the cluster will nearly double the weight of the remaining fruit at harvest. Physiological damage to fruit of some varieties may result from over-thinning. To prevent wind damage to the fruit and breaking of long fruit arms, support the weight of heavy clusters by tying each one to an adjacent leaf midrib. Reducing Rain and Insect Injury Rain and high humidity may cause physical damage to the fruit in the period preceding ripening. When this happens, cracks appear in the fruit surface through which fungi and bacteria may enter. Fermentation or souring of the fruit rapidly follows. Fruit clusters can be protected with commercially available date covers. These heavy waxed ripple kraft bags are placed around clusters and tied tightly to the fruiting arms just before the fruit begins to ripen. Cut off the excess length so that no more than three to four inches of the bottom of the cluster is exposed. It is advisable to raise the covers temporarily soon after a rain to allow free air circulation. Butcher paper is a satisfactory substitute for commercial date covers. People also have had success using bags made from porous cloth material which permits good air circulation within the bag. For example, sheer curtain material will work for date bags. The bottom may be enclosed to prevent bird entry . Bugs nor- mally enter the date through the stem end. Fruit clusters that are properly thinned will normally not develop a bug problem. Dried-fruit beetles,. bees, wasps and birds also can cause extensive injury to ripening fruit. At present no EP A.registered pesticides are available for the protection of dates against such hazards. Properly installed paper date covers tend to reduce these kinds of losses, however . Harvesting the Fruit It is necessary to make several pickings during the ripening season, as all the fruit on a cluster does not ripen uniformly. To avoid losses from insects and micro-organisms, dates should be picked when they are only partially ripened. The beginning of ripening is marked by the appearance of translucent spots on the skin at or near the fruit tips, gradually spreading over the entire fruit surface. At this stage the flesh is still firm, but as ripening proceeds, it becomes soft and mushy (tree ripe). For home processing, it is best to wait until the fruit is fully translucent to tree-ripe before picking. Damaged, sour and fermented fruit at. tracts insects and should be selectively removed from the clusters at each picking. Sorting and Cleaning Sort the fruit carefully and discard all sour and fermented dates. Soft dates should never be washed directly in water. A convenient method to clean small lots is to spread the fruit on the surface of a moist turkish towel held on a tray. Gently shake, roll and tumble the fruit to remove adhering soil and debris. Rinse the towel frequently in clean water . Ripening and Curing Dates picked before they are fully ripe can be completely ripened by heating at a temperature between 95° and 120° F. Heating is continued until the fruit is cured (dehydrated) to the point where spoilage will not occur. Tree-ripened fruit need only be cured. Fresh tree-ripe, uncured dates contain 35% to 40% moisture; the flesh is soft and mushy and the skin is mostly unwrinkled. They must be refrigerated to prevent spoilage. Fully cured dates contain 25% to 28% moisture; the flesh is rather firm and pliable and the skin is wrinkled like that of a prune. The fruit keeps well at room temperature. Almost any method may be used to heat the dates, but the most common are the kitchen oven method and the solar heater method. Kitchen oven method: Spread dates one layer deep on trays and place on oven shelves. Ideally, tray bottoms should be perforated to allow air circulation but cookie sheets may be used. If possible, insert a thin glass or metal thermometer into one of the dates. Heat oven until the fruit temperature reaches 120°F and then turn off the oven. When dates have cooled to 100°F, turn on the oven again. Inspect the fruit frequently and remove individuals that have ripened and cured to the desired point. Repeat procedure as necessary. If a thermometer is not available, modify the procedure as follows: Preheat the oven to 200°F using the oven temperature dial, then turn it off. Place the dates in the oven and leave them until it has cooled. If necessary, repeat the process until fruit is cured to the desired point. It is essential that the dates not be over-heated. Fruit temperatures above 155°F will caramelize the sugar and produce sticky, syrupy dates with a scorched flavor. Solar heater method: The solar heater is a shallow rectangular wooden box with a sloping glass or plastic cover that admits and traps the sun's heat. The sides should be tight, with screened openings at each end for ventilation. Soft dates should be placed one layer deep on trays and stacked in the heater. Semi-dry dates may be placed two to three layers deep on the trays. The stack of trays in the heater should be rotated occasionally so that all fruit receives the same exposure. On extremely hot days, some partial shade may be required to reduce the temperature in the box. Because the temperature drops at night, ripening and curing may require two to eight days, depending on the fruit and the temperature conditions. Inspect and remove ripened and cured fruit daily. High Heat Treatment High heat treatment (sometimes called "pasteurization") kills insect eggs and adults and some yeasts and bacteria. Many resistant micro-organisms survive the heat, but further dehydration also results, so treated dates usually keep well. Place the previously ripened and cured dates in a pre-heated oven and raise the fruit temperature to 150°F. Maintain the heat for 30 minutes, using a good thermometer if possible. Do not overheat. Remove fruit from the oven and allow to cool. Storage of Dates If the fruit is dehydrated to 20% to 25% moisture, no further treatment is necessary and it may be stored at room temperature in almost any kind of container. Dates containing more than 32% moisture should be refrigerated. Regardless of moisture content, dates may be stored indefinitely in a freezer at 0°F. The appearance of small white sugar crystals under the skin of fruit stored for long periods in a refrigerator is unappealing to the eye but does not harm the fruit for eating purposes. Most sugar spotting occurs in fruit with 24% to 33% moisture and can be minimized by storage at a°F or lower. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 2 21:40:18 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 14:40:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] I've got a zillion, but they're green In the low AZ desert, that sometimes happens when tomatoes are planted too late and further development stops before maturity due to high temperatures. Suggest contacting your local county extension office for advice in your case. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cindy Stuckey" > arid_gardener > Help! My tomatos (Celebrity, Champion and Roma) have a zillion huge fruits > on them. The fruits have been full sized and green for weeks now. No sign > of coloring up except on just a few near the ground ... and they're rotten. > Our temperatures here in Chatsworth, CA have been averaging 105 every day > for the last several weeks. The plants are on a drip system with alternate > days, 4 gallons in one hour. The leaves are rolled upward. No sign of > virus. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:03 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde felled by the wind Mary, The best thing you can do to help your tree is to be sure that the tree is deep watered adequately ( to a depth in excess of 3 feet ). No do not apply fertilizer, B 1 etc. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 3 00:23:05 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:23:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Newly planted Shamel Ash Claire, I'm not familiar with the plant called Duranta, hopefully someone else will pick up on that part of your question. You said that all the leaves dried up and fell off the newly planted tree with in days. That tells me that the tree was delivered to you in a very dry condition or it was not watered properly when it was planted. Were you present when the tree was planted ? Two weeks should be an adequate time for every day watering. I just planted ten 36 inch box trees, the most recent was planted two weeks ago. I'm already irrigating every other day and will go to three days soon. If the tree is going to live it will start to leaf out again soon. I would recommend that you advise the nurseryman of the trees condition and do it by mail. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZroaddust@aol.com Thu Aug 3 03:04:11 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 20:04:11 -0700 (MST) From: AZroaddust@aol.com AZroaddust@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A 5' arm (and the only one at that) on our 32' saguaro succumbed to the high winds a few nights ago. It left a relatively small jagged break on the "trunk", but is about 11" in diameter. My inclination is to leave it alone and let nature do the healing, but I'm also concerned about it possibly contracting Bacterial Nercrosis since it is humid this time of year and there are several "rotting" saguaros on the preserve in our neighborhood. Can preventative measures be taken, or wait and see what happens? Thank you. From gpbrady@earthlink.net Thu Aug 3 04:32:55 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 21:32:55 -0700 (MST) From: gpbrady@earthlink.net gpbrady@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a couple of quesitons. First, I thought I bought a Ficus tree, but now I have small white fig shaped fruit at the ends of some branches. Is this normal or did the nursury make a mistake? Second, the same ficus is in full sun and has black and brown dried leaves, I am watering it, but the tree seems to have become even more sparse. I have put down bark to prevent water evaporation, and the soil beneath it seem moist, yet not too wet. Is the leave discoloration normal due to the heat or should I water even more? Geoff From janetfay@ix.netcom.com Wed Aug 2 23:24:09 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Aug 2000 16:24:09 -0700 (MST) From: janetfay@ix.netcom.com janetfay@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On the north side of my exterior stucco wall there are some strange blood-like "splats",in a random pattern.Each are about 2 inches in diameter, in a variety of patterns. I don't think it is a bird related marking, and is only on this exposure of my house. It washes off with difficulty. Thank you for any help on these mysteries markings. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Thu Aug 3 15:30:50 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:30:50 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Duranta species, aka: sky flowers Concerning the sky flower (Duranta sp.) you were given.... Sky flowers are a tropical plant. Native to tropical climates, these plants love heat, humidity, bright light (a lot of full sun), well draining soils, and will tolerate coastal areas. In our inland, and subtropical desert, the conditions are drier and considerably more intense with heat and sunlight during the summer months. I would plant the sky flower in the ground, within an area that is protected from direct summer sun (filtered over head, morning sun only, avoid western exposures). This plant will require a lot of soil moisture during our hot summer months, so by planting it within shady enclosures, under patios, atriums, etc., it should thrive and you will be able to keep the soil cooler and moister than out in direct exposure conditions. The sky flower (most common and best is Duranta repens) will climb and bramble like cape honeysuckle (if you are familiar with the plant), and it is best to support the plant around walls, a trellis or large rock features (I have seen this plant used around shaded waterfalls in water garden settings). By keeping it protected, any extreme cold or frost conditions that might occur in winter, will not kill back the plant or foliage. Windy areas will also beat and tatter the foliage until it matures. Keep in mind the berries produced by this plant are poisonous and the plant can have thorns with maturity, so it can be a hazard to children if planted where kids are to frequent. If you like this plant, you might also consider a Vitex (Chaste tree). This plant has a similar bloom that is upright (blossoms like lavender or some sage), and Vitex can be planted as a shrub screen, or small tree. This plant is a more tolerant of arid, dry conditions than Duranta and can be planted in full sun. Hopefully this addresses your concerns. Valerie Meyers From cotton@dancris.com Thu Aug 3 18:13:15 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 11:13:15 -0700 From: Steven Bales cotton@dancris.com Subject: [AG] sources for garden veggy seeds --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country. Thanks for your help, Steven Bales --=====================_10844779==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area.  Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden.  Also looking for seed vendors.  Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best?   Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country.
 
Thanks for your help,  Steven Bales
--=====================_10844779==_.ALT-- From Gadkin@uswest.net Thu Aug 3 14:28:09 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 07:28:09 -0700 (MST) From: Gadkin@uswest.net Gadkin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Do you have any information about alternative/artificial grass systems. Our current lawn is consuming large amounts of water and time to maintain but we would still like and area for our children to play. I'm hoping that there might be an alternative that is easy on the knees and friendlier to the environment. Thank you for a response, Kim From RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Thu Aug 3 23:39:03 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 16:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: RAM6260@YAHOO.COM RAM6260@YAHOO.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My lemon tree last year lost it's leaves in midsummer while the adjacent orange and grapefruit trees on the same watering schedule did fine. This spring, I got some new leaf development but leaves are still sparce. I do have some fruit developing. Do not detect cholosis. Any ideas? From LBradley@sisna.com Fri Aug 4 01:04:03 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 18:04:03 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Arid Landscape Plants course to be offered at Glendale Community College Fall 2000 >From: DESERTPLTS@aol.com >Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 17:55:13 EDT >Subject: (no subject) >To: > > >Lucy, >If you know of any persons that might be interested in taking AGS188 at >Glendale Comm College, Arid Landscape Plants, I finally got through the >paperwork. It will be 6-9pm mon and wed nites starting aug 28th, if any >one has any questions, they can email me or call me at mountain states. >thanks >see you at the master gardeners >george hull Lucy K. Bradley From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:32:52 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:32:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Prickly Pear Fruit Your question has been around for a while, and I'm not sure I have seen a response to it. Many of us who volunteer to answer these questions have specialties other than cactus. I hope you won't mind if I suggest that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden by telephone, during their hotline hours of 10-11:30 am, M-F. 480-941-1225 These plants are clearly their specialty, and I suspect they will help you very quickly. I apologize for the delay in our own response. Linda Guy Master Gardener Tanya.Mure@nau.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > >From some quick research I have learned that > prickly pear fruit can be anywhere between > yellow to red. One of my friends has a prickly > pear that had red fruit earlier this year and > was looking forward to harvesting the next > batch. Right now the fruit is yellow and is > falling off the cactus, when it is cut open it > smells o.k. but looks mushy (technical term), > almost like it had been left on the plant too > long. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:35:57 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:35:57 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Brown Patches in Turf There are several possibilities. One is that your sprinkler system is somehow missing these spots. Putting cans out to gauge the adequacy of the irrigation can help you determine this. There is a possibility that you have a miniscule, but difficult to control pest called pearl scale. You can find the culprit by digging out a piece of turf. Description and control measures are covered in our summary at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener gentner@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Have several large (4x6+) brown patches in tifgreen lawn. Have had grubs in the past but that doesn't seem to be the problem now. Have taken digital pictures of these areas that I can send for your review. Please advise. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 02:53:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 19:53:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Improved Mesquite Variety What exactly do you consider an improved variety of mesquite to be? Lack of tolerance for a winter cold snap, which you have suggested is one of the characteristics, would not in my opinion be considered an improvement, since this would require frost protection measures in the winter months. Sonoran desert natives include: Honey mesquite [Prosopis glandulosa] a large spiny shrub or small tree, sometimes called Texas mesquite; honey from its catkins is commonly offered for sale. Screwbean mesquite, a personal favorite [prosopis pubescens] is a tall shrub or medium tree with screwbean shaped pods. A good planting for wildlife. The Velvet or Arizona mesquite [prospis velutina] is clearly a tree, reaching to 40'. It is also terrific for urban wildlife habitat. Nonnatives include Argentine [p. alba] and Chilean [p.chlensis] also tree sized [30 x20].The Argentine has a cultivar called "Colorado" which has fewer thorns and is more cold tolerant than the Argentinean. But in total, there are 44 varieties of mesquite throughout the SW and Latin America.My understanding is that the biggest difficulty in selecting mesquites is their similarities and hence mislabeling in the nurseries. Be sure you are dealing with a trusted retailer. Linda Guy Master Gardener wildem21@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? > > I have heard they exist but I have also heare the > improved varieties have little or no tolerance for > freezing temperatures. > > I will be grateful for any information anyone > can share. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:00:46 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:00:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Pests I couldn't find a pest that matched your description in the entomology section of our online Master Gardener Manual, although I invite you to peruse it to see if you can make a diagnosis yourself: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html You are welcome to bring samples to one of our satellite offices near your home; or bring in a sample for the weekly diagnosis meeting at the Maricopa County Extension Office. The addresses for these locations are listed on the same page where you originally placed your question in the right hand column http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > While pulling some crabgrass out of my bermuda grass lawn, i found some areas down at the soil level that has a white fuzzy cottony substance all over them. At first it looks like a spider nest, but there is way too much of it to be that. The grass is very dense and very green. The entire back yard gets shaded late in the afternoon by the house. lawn is watered every other day and mowed every week. Any suggestions would help. > Thanx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:06:14 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:06:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Thrips? Killing cukes,melons I'm not sure that someone has yet replied to your distressing situation. I unfortunately am not sure myself what is attacking your crops. Could you take a trot through the troubleshooting section of the July Timely Tips column and see if you find the culprit? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm Another resource is the entomology chapter of our Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ If all else fails, you can take samples to the nearest satellite office or to the weekly diagnosis meeting at the main office. All the addresses are listed on the same page where you originally posted your question, right hand column. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm I'm sorry I wasn't more helpful. Best of luck in resolving your situation. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear Master Gardener, > > I have a horrible infestation of things on the back of the leaves of my > cantaloupe and cucumbers. They are little dots of black and light brown > - I'm guessing mature and immature somethings. > > I sprayed the backs of the leaves with a spray containing stuff from > chrysanthemums, but I can't tell if it did anything. I'm losing whole > crops here, ha! My wonderful melon vines are going, and the cukes are > about gone. Any last rites you can suggest? > > Sincerely, Jackie > > _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ > http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 03:18:43 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Aug 2000 20:18:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Irrigation Practices In the first year, the mesquite trees may need a bit more water to get established. Your interval seems correct, but they could stand a deep watering to 3' each time. Next year you'll be able to do this monthly, or even less frequently if you are not encouraging quick, lush growth. Mine get a deep irrigation about twice a summer to aproximate monsoon weather. I don't feel the need to constantly prune above 100 degrees in the summer, and a lot of waer would cause this kind of growth! I have mostly small container cactus. But our publication 8309, which you can order with instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals says that they typically have tapering tap roots to anchor the plant and fleshy lateral roots, about 3 t 5 inches below the soils surface, that extend in search of moisture and nutrients. I hope you tried as best you could to maintain the original orientation. Cactus can often sunburn if the hardened west side is not reestablished in the same position on transplanting. Your soil should be ok for the cactus which like it well drained [for which a percentage of gravel is helpful]. Fertilization is rarely necessary, but if you feel you must, do so earlier in the season. You don't want to encourage new growth going into the cooler months where the tender ends will risk frost damage. Limited irrigation to establish the plant in the first year is necessary, but thereafter, only supplement during prolonged dry spells. It is imperative that water never be left to puddle as they disdain wet or damp feet. Check out the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener SCSTECH2@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted my yard to cactus and a thronless Mesquite tree plus some bushes. I deepwatered the tree. I water every two weeks(a light amount) About 2 feet of clay loam over a sandy loam. Send any info you can. Do saguaro have tap roots? Thank you.... > Is it a good idea to fertilze cactus? How much? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri Aug 4 13:20:13 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 06:20:13 -0700 From: Jennifer Kleffner nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest problem Dear Arid Gardener Digest, Somehow your system got a glitch in it and I received over 900 copies of the digest dated Monday. All of the issues seemed to be different (they were numbered sequentially) but I did not check the text for changes as I was a bit overwhelmed. I finally had my internet service provider delete them on his end, as I was never going to download them all. I don't know if this was just a problem with my subscription (nativenursery@redrivernet.com) or if it affected many other people. But please check. I love this service, but if it happens again, I will have to unsubscribe. Thanks, Jennifer Kleffner From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:08 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:08 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: ocotillo --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >From: "Alan & Alicia Vorgitch" >To: >Subject: ocotillo >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 > >I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo >plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is >5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of >fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what >would the cost be. Thanks Alan Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
From: "Alan  & Alicia Vorgitch" <vorgitch@mediaone.net>
To: <cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: ocotillo
Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 10:38:07 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600

I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is 5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what would the cost be.  Thanks  Alan



Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_1001118==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 15:23:27 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 08:23:27 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > >Linda Ffolliott > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) >From: fbard8587@uswest.net >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Francine Bard >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net >City: tempe State: Az >Country: USA >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 16:09:53 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:09:53 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [AGAphids It's difficult to say why what works for most people isn't working for you. Try washing the insects off the plants with something like a sweeeper nozzle before spraying soaps or insecticide.. Also, you will need to be persistent and repeat weekly. Or maybe they are not aphids. When whiteflies are active, there may be a new infestation of whitefly nymphs several times each week, sometimes every day. Treatment is similar to that of aphids but needs to be more frequent. With whiteflies, you would also see adults flying around the plants. Aphids are usually easier to control than whiteflies. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Help! I have a major infestation of aphids. I have tried soapy water, insecticidal soap, ladybugs and insecticide(which I strongly didn't want to do) Absolutely nothing has worked. They cover the undersides of so many leaves of my vegatable plants that it is becoming physically impossible to keep up the attack. I had the same problem in my winter garden last year. Is there anything you might recommend that I haven't tried? I am at my wits end! From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 16:14:48 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 09:14:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poolside Plantings We have a good publication on landscaping for pools, available at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf Succulents can be an excellent choice because their low water requirement will protect your decking. They needn't have thorns, if that is the issue, and some have a look that can fit into other themes, like mediterranean. Recommended vines were yellow morning glory and pink trumpet. But there are other flowers and shrubs which may also suit your fancy. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Carol Noyes wrote: > arid_gardener > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:10:59 -0700 (MST) > >From: Linda Ffolliott > >To: Carol Noyes > >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > > > >do you have a suggestion for this person? email fbard8587@uswest.net > > > >Linda Ffolliott > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > >Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 11:09:22 -0700 (MST) > >From: fbard8587@uswest.net > >To: ffolinda@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Cc: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu, paul@Ag.Arizona.Edu, rcasler@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Comment from the College site > > > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > > > >Individual: Francine Bard > >Email: fbard8587@uswest.net > >City: tempe State: Az > >Country: USA > >Comment: I have about a 1 foot space between my brick fence and pool to > >plant something-maybe a vine? Do you have any suggestions that would not > >destroy my pool with a root system? NO cactus. > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 16:23:52 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:23:52 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Fwd: ocotillo Prescott might be a bit cold for ocotillos. Suggest you contact the Yavapai County Cooperative Extension Office in Prescott for advice at: Yavapai County Cooperative Extension P.O. Box 388 Prescott, AZ 86302-0388 Phone: (520) 445-6590 or (520) 771-3385 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carol Noyes" > From: "Alan & Alicia Vorgitch" >> I will be building a home in Prescott soon. I happen to love the ocotillo plant and wonder if I can grow it successfully there, The elevation is 5800 feet and the soil is made up of decomposed granite and a foot of fertile top soil. Where can I buy 2-4 plants in the 6 foot range? and what would the cost be. Thanks Alan From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 16:38:17 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 09:38:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening --------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mr. Bales, You could begin by consulting our online publication and planting guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable In general, as we enter the cooler months, we tend to plant vegetables whose leaves, flowers/buds or roots are eaten. Starting early spring, you will be planting vegetables whose fruits are consumed. This rule applies to most annuals. As to legumes, peas are generally cool season while beans are warm season. Onions and garlic will be planted in two months, and will be with you through about May/June. Having said all this, most of us coax an amazing array of veggies year round with some combination of containers, shade cloth or frost protection, depending on the weather, plant's requirements and our own fanatic devotion. But the general rule is good guidance for a novice. You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online. Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast. Hope this gets you started. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Steven Bales by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good > source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for > seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is > catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for > other parts of the country. > > Thanks for your help, Steven Bales --------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mr. Bales,

You could begin by consulting our online publication and planting guide at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable

In general, as we enter the cooler months, we tend to plant vegetables whose leaves, flowers/buds or roots are eaten. Starting early spring, you will be planting vegetables whose fruits are consumed. This rule applies to most annuals. As to legumes, peas are generally cool season while beans are warm season. Onions and garlic will be planted in two months, and will be with you through about May/June.

Having said all this, most of us coax an amazing array of veggies year round with some combination of containers, shade cloth or frost protection, depending on the weather, plant's requirements and our own fanatic devotion. But the general rule is good guidance for a novice.

You might want to keep abreast of the monthly garden activities at our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm

The page with the recommended reading list is located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm
I really like George Brookbank's Desert Gardening and Nyhuis' Desert Harvest. Of course you could try our own Desert Gardening for Beginners, which many nurseries carry, or you can order online.

Sometimes life gets the best of me and I purchase six packs of transplants, particularly cabbage, broccoli, etc. from my favorite local nursery. But I adore my salad greens and purchase an array of seeds to keep the salad bowl in both the house and the rabbit hutch filled to overflowing. You might be amazed to learn that the seeds from the catalogs of our more northerly neighbors, which feature short-season varieties, can do well here. That's because our seasons are also short....short autumns before the coolness causes a temporary hibernation of some winter crops which recover come February or so. Similarly, we plant tomatos, usually with some protection in February and the short season or "early" varieties start producing well before the summer's blast.

Hope this gets you started.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

"Steven Bales by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area.  Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden.  Also looking for seed vendors.  Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best?   Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country.

Thanks for your help,  Steven Bales

--------------226548B6EDE4082942BB719F-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 4 17:00:50 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 10:00:50 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] sources for garden veggy seeds Most garden centers stock seeds that will produce well here as well as many that will not. But in most cases, catalog seed suppliers store their seeds at controlled a temperatures and controlled humidity and are better sources. Also note that many seeds companies buy their bulk seed from the same supplier before packaging them in the small gardener packets. That is, seed from a catalog seed company in Maine may be grown at the same place as that from one in California. But there are exceptions. Seeds from Native Seeds/SEARCH, located in Tucson and Plants of the Southwest in Santa Fe NM , are grown in one of the southwestern states. See: http://www.nativeseeds.org http://www.plantsothesouthwest.com I buy most of my garden seeds from Johnny's in Maine, Territorial Seeds in Oregon, Burpee in PA, Peaceful Valley Farm Supply (Organic) in CA, Filaree Farms in WA (Organic garlic), Richter's in Canada (Herbs), Park Seed in So. Carolina, or locally when I need them right away. I'm sure there are other equally good sources. I think it is more important to plant at the right time of year and plant suited varieties. You will find a schedule planting for vegetables at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf http://www.filareefarm.com/ Good luck! Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Bales (by way of Lucy Bradley )" > I'm a novice gardener in the Buckeye area. Can you guide me to a good source of suggested plantings for my Fall garden. Also looking for seed vendors. Is there a good place here in the valley or is catalogue best? Most catalogues I've seen talk about varieties for other parts of the country. From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 4 17:05:49 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 10:05:49 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Discouraging Birds It is inevitable that with water features in the yard, you will attract wildlife in the low desert. This morning at my house it was a squadron of young grackles and their moms, making a joyful squawking as they learned to tip down to the water's surface without losing their balance and falling in! Later their moms will no doubt teach them to catch the algae-eating water snails. I'd prefer that they didn't, but I'm never at a loss for snails, so I suspect all is in balance in my backyard and the pond. Later in the morning, however, it was a small group of pigeons which I'd just as soon pop with a pellet gun and skewer for dinner [whip up a nice sauce and we French will eat almost anything!]. But through observation, I learned that the entire neighborhood flock was originally visiting for a full course lunch [African sumac berries] and that year we took out a decent sized tree just to mitigate the attractiveness of our yard. Now we are back to just a hand full of pigeons, and they come and go only to drink. As long as we have netting/wire in potential spring nesting areas of our eaves, we're willing to live with the more limited mess on the slate around the pond. I'm sharing this to suggest that you target the particular offenders and remove as many other enticements as you can, since your water feature will no doubt be there permanently. That is to say, at least minimize sources of food and shelter. I don't think you can entirely discourage all birds, unless you kept a pet outdoors to do so. Or you could make a large enclosure of netting. Or hang strips of brightly shining foil whose glinting in the sun is said to deter birds. As to this latter option, I read of it often but not tried it. I'm skeptical, simply because I have a number of shiny chimes near the pond which don't seem to achieve this function at all. They are there to gently soothe, along with the gurgling waterfall, my massage/bodywork clients in an adjoining room. Quite honestly, I think the birds must like it too! You can consult the relevant listings on these pages of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/index.htm [managing birds] or the chapter on managing vertebrate pests in our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener marypatter@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerHow can I discourage birds from landing in my yard, drinking pool water and making a mess all over the deck, waterfall, etc.? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Aug 4 19:19:41 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Aug 2000 12:19:41 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] (no subject) --=====================_15196050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Educational Opportunity Do you want to learn more about landscape plants that thrive in our desert soils and climate? Take advantage of a class being offered at Glendale Community College. Arid Landscape Plants - AGS188, is being offered on Monday and Wednesday nights from 6 - 9 pm beginning on August 28 . The instructor is George Hull, who heads up the propagation division at Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. 3 credits are available. Contact Glendale Community College for registration information. http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/ 6000 W Olive Ave, Glendale AZ 85302 (623) 845-3000 Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15196050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Educational Opportunity

Do you want to learn more about landscape plants that thrive in our desert soils and climate? Take advantage of a class being offered at Glendale Community College. Arid Landscape Plants - AGS188, is being offered on Monday and Wednesday nights from 6 - 9 pm beginning on August 28 . The instructor is George Hull, who heads up the propagation division at Mountain States Wholesale Nursery. 3 credits are available.

Contact Glendale Community College for registration information. http://www.gc.maricopa.edu/ 6000 W Olive Ave, Glendale AZ 85302
(623) 845-3000









Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15196050==_.ALT-- From appliedc@hotmail.com Fri Aug 4 00:08:52 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 17:08:52 -0700 (MST) From: appliedc@hotmail.com appliedc@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I recently had a Mexican Fan Palm trimmed. It was done by a climber with a chainsaw. Being tinker of sorts I was wondering if you know of any machine/manufacturer of a palm trimming machine. Noticing newly planted skinned palms, I was wondering if this is done by hand. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John chen appliedc@hotmail.com From mesamess@AOL.com Fri Aug 4 01:49:37 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 18:49:37 -0700 (MST) From: mesamess@AOL.com mesamess@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have five boginvillia and none of them ever bloom. I have tried watering them alot and because they always look like threr on thier last leg and I have tried holding off on the water. I planted them two years ago and had the worst luck. Evey one I know has great luck with them and I have followed thier advice to no avail. Should I trim them ,fertilize them and with what? From DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Fri Aug 4 15:43:50 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 08:43:50 -0700 (MST) From: DONNORRICH@AOL.COM DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page To: RodMcQ6 First, thank you for your previous information and suggestions; the citrus is doing very well! Second, could you tell me when is the best time for pruning your citrus trees. Any suggestions to help in the process would be grestly appreciated. Again, thank you very much for a great service! From mpclever@earthlink.net Fri Aug 4 04:07:41 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Aug 2000 21:07:41 -0700 (MST) From: mpclever@earthlink.net mpclever@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I appear to have an infestation of fungus gnats, problem is, I have NO houseplants, aluminum can recycle bin and kitchen trash have been relocated 15 feet away from the house outside. All remidies I have read about all have to do with care of houseplants. I have no fruit out of the refrigerator, and I have cleaned every kitchen cabinet, including thoroughly under the sink (thinking it may be stagnent water)trying to find were they are nesting. I have also "bombed" my house three times in six weeks with NO improvement. Please help me, I have stopped cooking for my husband and children because I don't want the gnats in our food, and we are getting tired of eating out :) From fanadea@aol.com Fri Aug 4 20:00:08 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 13:00:08 -0700 (MST) From: fanadea@aol.com fanadea@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Plantain: Considered a weed. DOes it grow here in the Phoenix area. If not, since it is considered a weed, how could one go about obtaining it? From brendalopez@home.com Fri Aug 4 16:22:58 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 09:22:58 -0700 (MST) From: brendalopez@home.com brendalopez@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is it a good time to plant bokchoy in Phoenix and what conditions does this veg. need From parmeljw@wellsfargo.com Fri Aug 4 20:46:34 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 13:46:34 -0700 (MST) From: parmeljw@wellsfargo.com parmeljw@wellsfargo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page TO: Cathy Rymer Last year there was a class at the Arboretum in Tempe on date palm care. Will that class be repeated at any time in the future? You can contact me by phone at 602-378-6811 or at the email address above. Thank you for your assistance. From jennifurn@netzero.net Sat Aug 5 03:11:04 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 20:11:04 -0700 (MST) From: jennifurn@netzero.net jennifurn@netzero.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help I can not get rid of this vine that I ordered out of the newspaper called "hummingbird vine". It keeps sprouting up from the roots. Round up has not worked. It turns the leaves brown but keeps on growing. What can I do!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 04:16:26 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 21:16:26 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Bok Choy in Phx I've grown Bok Choy a number of times and it never required any special attention or conditions. I always sowed seeds in October but according to the planting schedule at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf you can plant seeds any time from August 15 through February (6-1/2 months). But if planting during the winter months when seeds take longer to sprout, you might want to consider transplants which you would probably have to grow yourself. I suspect it would be pretty difficult to find them in garden centers. As to "conditions", you can grow under the same conditions as other cool weather greens like lettuce or the cabbage family. It's grows well in Phoenix and is easy to grow. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >When is it a good time to plant bokchoy in Phoenix and what conditions does this veg. need From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 05:06:22 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 22:06:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: getting Rid of Hummingbird Vine There are probably chemicals that would do the job but which many of us would rather not use. If you can keep its leaves from growing, the roots will eventually die. I would try digging it out. I got rid of a cape honeysuckle by digging out the roots which wasn't too difficult. There were a few places where the vines had rooted and it took a few months before I got all of it. Or you could see that the roots don't receive any irrigation for a year or so. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >Help I can not get rid of this vine that I ordered out of the newspaper called "hummingbird vine". It keeps sprouting up from the roots. Round up has not worked. It turns the leaves brown but keeps on growing. What can I do!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 5 05:06:32 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 22:06:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plantain (Weeds) Plantain grows very well in Phoenix, unfortunately. We used to get the buckhorn kind from seeds in horse manure which survived composting. Probably came with the hay. The broadleaf kind is less common, it's been quite awhile since I've seen it - years ago it used to come up in the lawn in the spring before being suffocated by the hybrid Bermudagrass. I don't recall having ever seen either type in the desert so it's probably only a problem with crops. I've seen seeds of the buckhorn type offered for sale in herb catalogs. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >Plantain: Considered a weed. DOes it grow here in the Phoenix area. If not, since it is considered a weed, how could one go about obtaining it? From dg.anderson@home.com Sat Aug 5 16:49:55 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 09:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: dg.anderson@home.com dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the name of the herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 6 00:35:33 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2000 17:35:33 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge "Manage" ----- Original Message ----- From: >What is the name of the herbicide that will suppress purple nutsedge? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 6 19:08:00 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:08:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not doing well Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Sat Aug 5 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page It is early August and my Shamel Ash is dropping all of it's leaves. Isn't it early in the season for this? If so, what could be the reason for this leaf drop? Thanks for your reply. From agaviota@hotmail.com Mon Aug 7 00:58:07 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 17:58:07 -0700 (MST) From: agaviota@hotmail.com agaviota@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was away for four weeks this summer and found my lime tree and a few other landscaping trees suffered from serious underwatering. They seem to be coming back but suffer from partially burnt leaves any suggestions to nurse them back to health? From mnrmartian@yahoo.com Sun Aug 6 22:16:31 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 15:16:31 -0700 (MST) From: mnrmartian@yahoo.com mnrmartian@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have just moved into a subdivion North of Hwy. 60 near Ironwood St.in Apache Junction. We find that our yard and many of the neighbors yards are infested with brown dog ticks. Apparently expensive treatment by professional pest exterminators has proven to be ineffective. What can we do?? Help! From john_reardanz@yahoo.com Sun Aug 6 16:29:06 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 09:29:06 -0700 (MST) From: john_reardanz@yahoo.com john_reardanz@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find out about the root growth of a grapefruit tree. Do the roots grow deep or do they grow shallow and spread out. From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sun Aug 6 18:25:51 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 11:25:51 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband gets itchy and red when he prunes and discards branches of Ruellia, Peninsularis or Brittoniana. Otherwise, calle Acanthaceae. It has blue flowers. Does it have that effect on people? It's happened each time (3) that he's pruned them. From artcin@earthlink.net Sun Aug 6 23:30:05 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 16:30:05 -0700 (MST) From: artcin@earthlink.net artcin@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to plant black walnut trees in my yard, and am seeking a source to purchase seeds or seedlings or trees. I live in Peoria. Black walnut trees are abundant in Wisconsin (that's where I moved from), but I can't seem to find a source for them here. Can you help? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 02:54:54 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 19:54:54 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [Shamel Ash Losing Leaves . Shamel Ash sometimes succumbs to root rot but the usual problem this time of year is water not penetrating to the root area. It needs lots of water and is stressed by our intense summer heat. After watering, the water should have soaked to 3 feet for mature trees. Check by probing with a steel rod. The tree should have a water basin out to the edge of its canopy for holding the water during irrigation - irrigate slowly so the water will soak in We have a Shamel Ash tree planted in 1983 and initially had problems in July and August until we started a applying sulfur and fertilizer in the spring, then giving it lots of water. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >It is early August and my Shamel Ash is dropping all of it's leaves. Isn't it early in the season for this? If so, what could be the reason for this leaf drop? From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 03:15:07 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:15:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Root growth of a grapefruit tree . Roots are not invasive. Feeder roots will spread out a little past the canopy about 2-3 feet deep. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I am trying to find out about the root growth of a grapefruit tree. Do the roots grow deep or do they grow shallow and spread out. From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 03:18:05 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 20:18:05 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Black Walnut in Peria AZ . If you want a nut tree, consider one that is adapted to this area - e.g., pecan. You can find 15 gal. and boxed pecan trees in nurseries now and bare root in January. Now isn't a very good time for planting. Recommend waiting until October or, for bare root, January. Most nut trees, including pecans, need a second pollenizer pecan tree. Some of the pecans (e.g., Western Schley) are self-pollenizing but many of the pecans are self pollenizing but are more productive if cross pollinated from another variety of pecan tree. There are also several varieties of Almonds that will grow here.-Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I want to plant black walnut trees in my yard, and am seeking a source to purchase seeds or seedlings or trees. I live in Peoria. Black walnut trees are abundant in Wisconsin (that's where I moved from), but I can't seem to find a source for them here. Can you help? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 7 03:54:33 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 23:54:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape trees in bad shape due to lack of water The best thing you can do for your trees is to be sure that they are deep watered to a depth of three feet periodically. Since I do not know what the trees are I will have to play safe and recommend an irrigation interval that is safe for all, that of applying water once a week. Applying a three to four inch mulch around the trees out to the drip line will also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 05:27:24 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2000 22:27:24 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Brown Dog Tick ----- Original Message ----- From: >We have just moved into a subdivion North of > Hwy. 60 near Ironwood St.in Apache Junction. > We find that our yard and many of the > neighbors yards are infested with brown dog > ticks. Apparently expensive treatment by > professional pest exterminators has proven to > be ineffective. What can we do?? Help! Effective eradication and control usually involves the periodic use of chemicals on both the premises and the dog. It is usually best to hire a pest control operator and, at the same time, tick-dip the dog. Sounds as though you need a cooperative neighborhood effort and maybe try a different pest control operator. If neighbors do not cooperate, depending on how near they are, it may never be possible to completely eradicate the pest, only to reduce it to a tolerable threshold by periodic treatments. You can read about the treatments in Cooperative Extension Publication 6401 "Brown Dog Tick" which you can pick up at the extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix or you may order it by sending your request and $1.00 to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Olin Miller From msaffiri@rdc.cl Mon Aug 7 12:53:31 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 05:53:31 -0700 (MST) From: msaffiri@rdc.cl msaffiri@rdc.cl Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need information about the citrus "calamandin". Thanks in advance. From beverlybonich@msn.com Mon Aug 7 15:55:03 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 08:55:03 -0700 (MST) From: beverlybonich@msn.com beverlybonich@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 7 17:06:56 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:56 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Leucophyllum cimarron] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Resending to the list for the archives. Sue --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <398EEC8E.59CF09D6@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:23 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.72 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: beverlybonich@msn.com Subject: Re:Leucophyllum cimarron References: <200008071555.IAA18972@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm afraid I could find nothing on this particular species of Leucophyllum in any of my resources nor on the Internet through a search. I can give you some general information about Leucophyllum. Leucophyllum is a diverse genus of hardy shrubs from the Chihuahuan Desert. All are cold- and drought-tolerant and primarily reliant on the summer monsoons to induce flowering. Some species will bloom nearly anytime the humidity is up. This information is from the book "Low-Water Use Plants for California and the Southwest" by Carol Shuler. The various species generally range in size between 3 feet and 6 feet. I can't tell you how large this species grows to. Usually as wide as they are high, although the hybrid "Rain Cloud" tends to be more vertical than other Leucophyllum. Most are hardy to 5-10 degrees F. They prefer full sun and well drained soil. You may want to check with some of the larger nurseries in the area and see if they have more specific information. It may be a newer species than can be found in my reference books. Perhaps a fellow Master Gardener will have more specific information for you on this species. Sue Bass Master Gardener beverlybonich@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------73FFA94EA164E8B691722BEB-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 17:17:51 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 10:17:51 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Citrus 'calamondin' . The calamondin I am somewhat familiar with is a small limequat bushy plant , usually grown as a houseplant back east. It is not very cold hardy. The limequat we occasionally see in the valley around Phoenix is 'Tavares' and it isn't very cold hardy either. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >I need information about the citrus "calamandin". > From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 7 17:19:11 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:19:11 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Kumquat hybrid - Calamondin The following is information I located in the book, "Citrus" by Lance Walheim. Calamondin is listed as a Kumquat Hybrid. The book states that it is of unknown parentage but is labeled an acid mandarin, a mandarin or kumquat hybrid or its own species, Citrus mitis. It further states that this valuable ornamental is kumquatlike, which is why it is included with kumquat hybrids. Fruit is small, bright orange-red, and often borne in clusters. The tree is compact, fine textured, with small, closely spaced leaves. Cold hardy. Calamondin makes an excellent container plant indoors or out. Variegated calamondin, Citrus mitis, is also an exceptional ornamental. According to the book, the harvest season for the deserts of Arizona and California is November to March. You may want to contact the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers for additional information about this citrus. The following link will provide you with information on how to contact the group - http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener msaffiri@rdc.cl wrote: > arid_gardenerI need information about the citrus "calamandin". > > Thanks in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Mon Aug 7 19:06:44 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 12:06:44 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Leucophyllum cimarron] Sue et. al., I believe that 'Cimarron' is a trademark name that Mountain States Nursery uses for Leucophyllum zygophyllum. L. zygophyllum is a little smaller than some leucophyllums, about 4-5 feet tall and geneally a dusky whistish color owing to the fine hairs on the foliage. The flowers are a deep indigo. Like all leucophyllums it prefers full sun, very good drainage, intermittent but not continuous watering especially in the summer. You should be able to find more info on the leucophyllums in general, and sometimes this species, in most general desert gardening books. Mary Irish Sue Bass wrote: > Resending to the list for the archives. > Sue > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Re:Leucophyllum cimarron > Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2000 10:06:23 -0700 > From: Sue Bass > To: beverlybonich@msn.com > References: <200008071555.IAA18972@Ag.Arizona.Edu> > > I'm afraid I could find nothing on this particular species of Leucophyllum in any of my resources nor on the Internet through a > search. I can give you some general information about Leucophyllum. Leucophyllum is a diverse genus of hardy shrubs from the > Chihuahuan Desert. All are cold- and drought-tolerant and primarily reliant on the summer monsoons to induce flowering. Some > species will bloom nearly anytime the humidity is up. This information is from the book "Low-Water Use Plants for California > and the Southwest" by Carol Shuler. The various species generally range in size between 3 feet and 6 feet. I can't tell you > how large this species grows to. Usually as wide as they are high, although the hybrid "Rain Cloud" tends to be more vertical > than other Leucophyllum. Most are hardy to 5-10 degrees F. They prefer full sun and well drained soil. You may want to check > with some of the larger nurseries in the area and see if they have more specific information. It may be a newer species than > can be found in my reference books. Perhaps a fellow Master Gardener will have more specific information for you on this > species. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > beverlybonich@msn.com wrote: > > > arid_gardenerI would like information about a plant: leocophyllum cimarron--adult size, sun requirements, etc. Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 7 21:22:25 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 14:22:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Citrus 'calamondin' . There is an excellent write-up at http://www.hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/calamondin.html > ----- Original Message ----- From: >I need information about the citrus "calamandin". From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Mon Aug 7 22:17:32 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 18:17:32 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Allergic skin reaction to Ruellia I do not know if anyone responded to your question about red, itchy skin from handling Ruellia.... The foliage and branches of Ruellia species are not known to be toxic or viewed as irritants to humans and I cannot think of a plant in the family Acanthaceae that is known to. However, certain plants can produce chemicals that bother some people and create allergic reactions. Oleanders, lantanas and even asparagus fern can irritate the skin and if you have a tendency to break out in a rash or itch, wear long sleeves, gloves and scarves to avoid contact of the plant with your skin. Washing affected areas immediately after handling will also cut back on a reaction. Valerie Meyers From LIGHTSMITHMM@email.msn.com Mon Aug 7 23:54:12 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:54:12 -0700 From: ROBERTA SMITH LIGHTSMITHMM@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry tree with split from wind damage Dear Master Gardeners, A friend reported a monsoon damaged, five year old, mulberry tree in Cave Creek. The tree has two large, trunk-like branches that form a "V" about 8 ft. above the ground. This is where a split ocurred last week. The tree was staked but this did not help. The split just below the "V" is oozing a white liquid. Does anyone have a specific remedy or care regimen for this ailing tree? Best Regards, Roberta Smith From aculnon1@home.com Mon Aug 7 23:00:51 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2000 16:00:51 -0700 (MST) From: aculnon1@home.com aculnon1@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I just returned home from a short trip and discovered my grapefruit tree is in serious trouble. The leaves on several branches are dead, and the bark has split in areas. Large clumps of hardened sap have oozed out of the cracks in the bark. This has happened quite suddenly. The tree is almost 30 years old and has been healthy. It had grown too large and was cut back quite a bit in late winter. What can I do to save this tree? Is it too late? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Aug 8 11:39:16 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 04:39:16 -0700 (PDT) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Re: Information Dan, The system I use I call leaky pipe, its made by Aquapore from recycled tires. It sweats water all along the pipe.It takes some calculating and practice to adjust the system for ultimate results but basically its simple to install. As you know, water seeks dry. Useing that theory, I bury the pipe deep enough so it is 1/2 ti 1/3 deep the distance of the roots of her plants. EI. If a plant has most root in the top 3 feet of soil, I'll bury the pipes 11/2 to 2 feet deep. Through trial and some error I run the system till the bed is wet with the exception of the top 1-2 inches of soil ( that where the weed seeds are).That way we have a minium of weed problems. This would work on trees, shrubs and I've done it for lawns. The secret is to know the average depth of the roots your dealing with. The water will spread in all directions as it leaves the pipe so you get the whole root system watered but not the top soil. Hope this answers yoyr question, if not , let me know. Cactus Jack --- Dan williams wrote: > You had a post saying that you had buryied a system > in your wifes flower > gerden that watered the roots but not the surface. > and tou said that you > had no problem for years. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: john peder > To: Dan williams > Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 4:30 AM > Subject: Re: Information > > > > Dan, You will have to refresh me. What system are > you > > talking about? > > > > > > --- Dan williams wrote: > > > I never heard of that kind of system before. I > would > > > be very interested in learning more about it. > How > > > does it work and were can I purchase the > material? > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. > > http://invites.yahoo.com/ > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Kick off your party with Yahoo! Invites. http://invites.yahoo.com/ From emardick@brg.com Tue Aug 8 15:04:07 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:04:07 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees Is it advisable to put 3 - 4 inches of mulch around fruit trees now? At the present time I have about 1" of mulch around the perimeter. Thank you for your time and attention. From saz621@primenet.com Tue Aug 8 15:13:46 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:13:46 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: garlic Dear all, I have had a phenomenon in my garlic that has not happened to me before. I harvested and dried them as usual this year. But, as I began to use them, I noticed that many of the bulbs never made the distinctive split of bulblets, or cloves. One of these bulbs is the size of a large plum. Naturally this makes them a bit difficult to use. So, has this happened to any of your before? Any idea what causes it? And what would you recommend next year to prevent this strange phenom? I should say that I have grown this same strain of garlic for many years and this is the first occurrence of this problem. Thanks, Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 8 15:37:47 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 08:37:47 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: garlic The "bulbs" you mention are often called "rounds". I have never had true garlic develop into rounds when cloves were planted but I understand it happens to top setting garlic like the rocamboles in northern regions where the growing season is too short and also elsewhere if you plant the bulbils instead of the cloves. Maybe yours were planted too late. With elephant garlic, which we are told is really a leek, planting the corms which grow on the roots always produce rounds for me. Planting the rounds the following year yields the largest cloved bulbs but you will also get cloved bulbs by planting cloves directly - except some in northern climates where they can only grow rounds. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Irish" >... > I have had a phenomenon in my garlic that has not happened to me before. I harvested and dried them as usual this year. But, as I began to use them, I noticed that many of the bulbs never made the distinctive split of bulblets, or cloves. One of these bulbs > is the size of a large plum. Naturally this makes them a bit difficult to use. So, has this happened to any of your before? Any idea what causes it? And what would you recommend next year to prevent this strange phenom? I should say that I have grown this > same strain of garlic for many years and this is the first occurrence of this problem. > Thanks, Mary Irish > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 15:53:43 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:53:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Insect ID I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension office in your county, whose phone number will be listed in the government pages of the phone book. You could also try to find its website through http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/ Good luck to you. Linda Guy Maricopa County Master Gardener Angel Moreno wrote: > Hello Ms. Guy, > No, I am from the Central Valley area of California. It seems as if these > are tiny worms in the seed. Perhaps like the Mexican Jumping bean. > Any ideas? I just hope my oak is not affected. > > Linda Guy wrote: > > > Are you in the Phoenix metro area? [This hotline targets the Maricopa > > County, AZ area.] I've never heard of this issue locally. > > > > swamper2@pacbell.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I have these tiny little seed-like balls beneath my oak tree. > > > They resemble a tiny mustard seed. These seeds are jumping. They > > > sound like rice crispys. What are these? Should I be concerned? > > > Are they dangerous to my pets? > > > Help! > > > Angel Moreno > > > swamper2@pacbell.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 15:57:37 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 08:57:37 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pest ID You can try, as I did, to id the insect through our Master Gardener Manual's entomology chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ If this fails you, catch one and bring it to the weekly diagnostic meeting at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. You could also ask at the nearest satellite office, whose addresses are located on the same page where you originally asked this question. Linda Guy Master Gardener bonnford@amug.org wrote: > arid_gardenerNight-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:07:34 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:07:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Date Palm Classes The phone number [listed in last year's Master Gardener Conference proceedings] for the date palm curator is 480/965-8137. Or you could peruse the arboretum's website at http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm There was a wonderful 5-page handout from the Aroboretum's seminar on date gardening month by month at the abovereferenced conference. You could ask the curator's office for a copy, or call the Master Gardener desk at (602) 470-8086 and ask for a copy from last year's proceedings manual. Expect to pay a nominal fee. Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener parmeljw@wellsfargo.com wrote: > arid_gardenerTO: Cathy Rymer > > Last year there was a class at the Arboretum in Tempe on date palm care. Will that class be repeated at any time in the future? You can contact me by phone at 602-378-6811 or at the email address above. Thank you for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:25:38 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:25:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Improved Mesquite Variety Growing mesquites very fast can have its downside. We tend to see many more blown over in urban plantings than those in the desert habitat, and we speculate it's because we encourage [with an abundance of water and fertilizer, vs occasional deep soakings to encourage deep rooting], a canopy that is not always supported by a commensurate root zone. But this is, after all, a horticultural practice and not necessarily a function of the tree variety. As to your interest in a tree that produces heavier crops and more nutrient-laden beans, I doubt that our growers have had demand for this from the general population, since we often entertain questions from folks who are looking to eradicate the beans and their litter. I wonder if some of the groups that focus on ethnobotanic issues could be of assistance to you. Two in Arizona that come to mind are the Desert Botanical Gardens in Phoenix http://www.dbg.org/ and Native Seed Search in Tucson http://www.azstarnet.com/~nss/ Each sponsor demo gardens on uses of native plants. They may also be a source for seeds. [From Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes] Honey mesquites have a distribution that includes much of Texas, Oklahoma and even parts of Kansas; as you might expect with such a range, this tree is very cold hardy, to 0 degrees F. The screwbean can be found to 4000 feet, in an area that includes western Texas. It is similarly cold hardy, to 0 degrees. Velvet mesquite is also found in west Texas, 1000 - 5000 feet elevation, and is slightly less hardy [ to 5 degres F]. Please also consider contacting your own county's cooperative extension office whose phone number you will find listed in the government pages of your phone book. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener Marcus Wilder wrote: > Dear Linda: > > Thank you for your time and attention. I would think the first > characteristic of an imporved variety would be rapid growth. Second, I > would think heavy crops of mesquite beans would be an improvement. Third, > richer beans would be good. > > Occasional hard freezes are the norm in my area here in South Texas. My > target area is South Bexar County, just south of San Antonio. > Infrequently the temperature can drop below twenty. > > How fast does the Arizona variety grow? Where are seedlings or beans > available? What is its cold tolerance? > > With sincere appreciation, > > Marcus > > At 07:53 PM 8/3/00 -0700, you wrote: > >What exactly do you consider an improved variety of mesquite to be? Lack > >of tolerance for a winter cold snap, which you have suggested is one of > >the characteristics, would not in my opinion be considered an > >improvement, since this would require frost protection measures in the > >winter months. > > > >Sonoran desert natives include: Honey mesquite [Prosopis glandulosa] a > >large spiny shrub or small tree, sometimes called Texas mesquite; honey > >from its catkins is commonly offered for sale. Screwbean mesquite, a > >personal favorite [prosopis pubescens] is a tall shrub or medium tree > >with screwbean shaped pods. A good planting for wildlife. The Velvet or > >Arizona mesquite [prospis velutina] is clearly a tree, reaching to 40'. > >It is also terrific for urban wildlife habitat. > > > >Nonnatives include Argentine [p. alba] and Chilean [p.chlensis] also > >tree sized [30 x20].The Argentine has a cultivar called "Colorado" which > >has fewer thorns and is more cold tolerant than the Argentinean. > > > >But in total, there are 44 varieties of mesquite throughout the SW and > >Latin America.My understanding is that the biggest difficulty in > >selecting mesquites is their similarities and hence mislabeling in the > >nurseries. Be sure you are dealing with a trusted retailer. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > > > >wildem21@bigplanet.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? > >> > >> I have heard they exist but I have also heare the > >> improved varieties have little or no tolerance for > >> freezing temperatures. > >> > >> I will be grateful for any information anyone > >> can share. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:34:12 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:34:12 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Treating a cactus wound to prevent bacterial necrosis We have a summary which includes a pretty good discussion of wound treatment at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm I think you are wise to take some precaution [although I do not grow this cactus] given that disease seems evident already in your preserve. This bacteria can be transmitted by moths' larva as you will read in the above. Good luck with your magnificent saguaro! Linda Guy Master Gardener AZroaddust@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardenerA 5' arm (and the only one at that) on our 32' saguaro succumbed to the high winds a few nights ago. It left a relatively small jagged break on the "trunk", but is about 11" in diameter. > > My inclination is to leave it alone and let nature do the healing, but I'm also concerned about it possibly contracting Bacterial Nercrosis since it is humid this time of year and there are several "rotting" saguaros on the preserve in our neighborhood. > > Can preventative measures be taken, or wait and see what happens? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:48:48 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:48:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ficus with Figs Would it surprise you to know that ficus is simply an ornamental fig? F. benjamina can sprout a reddish fig [though none of mine have ever produced when I grew them in more temperate climes]. F. auriculata also produces larger figs. In fact in reviewing the many varieties of ornamental figs, most produce some kind of fruit, that is mostly inedible. You might want to pick up the Sunset Western Garden Book [pp294-5] at the library and read about ficus; in addition, it would help you determine the specific variety you have. I've had experience with f. benjamina, they can be particularly fussy about being moved, e.g. from nursery to home. If it were dropping green leaves, I'd suspect insufficient water. But since they are discolored, I'm more suspicious that it is due to the move, particularly if the leaves were exposed in transit in an open truck bed. Keeping the root zone evenly moist is key, but you sound as if you are at risk to rot the plant. Be patient. I once lost all the leaves on a 15' ficus due to it's move post-purchase; I had no choice but to dangle part of it out of a station wagon for the very slow 2 mile trip home. For two months, it was 'autumn' in my living room.But it eventually releafed. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gpbrady@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardenerI have a couple of quesitons. > > First, I thought I bought a Ficus tree, but now I have small white fig shaped fruit at the ends of some branches. Is this normal or did the nursury make a mistake? > > Second, the same ficus is in full sun and has black and brown dried leaves, I am watering it, but the tree seems to have become even more sparse. I have put down bark to prevent water evaporation, and the soil beneath it seem moist, yet not too wet. Is the leave discoloration normal due to the heat or should I water even more? > > Geoff > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Aug 8 16:58:28 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2000 09:58:28 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Deterring Birds I received a message from another server member that they have used with success mylar balloons to scare off birds. Linda Guy From momoftwo@home.com Tue Aug 8 14:54:28 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 07:54:28 -0700 (MST) From: momoftwo@home.com momoftwo@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Slugs have been eating my vegetable garden. What can I use to get rid of them which is safe around young kids and pets. Neither will walk in it as it is a raised bed. I've read that diatomaceous earth doesn't work when wet, can be a fatal if dogs lick paws covered with DE and it has a strong cancer warning. With all this in mind with caution can it still be used as a barrier? Where can you buy it? I read copper also works. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:21 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:21 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Lemon tree loosing leaves The lemon tree grows much faster than other varieties of citrus, consequently it uses more water. I suspect that the amount of water that you are applying may be marginal for your other trees and submarginal for the lemon. Citrus trees growing in the low desert should be deep watered every week to 10 days. Deep water means the water must penetrate to 3 plus feet and cover the entire area under the canopy.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist . From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:23 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:23 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees Three to four inches of mulch around your fruit trees would be great. You will keep the soil cooler, use less water and add humus to the soil as the mulch breaks down. Good ;luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:25 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:25 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry tree with split from wind damage Roberta, Sounds like the mulberry tree has taken a heavy hit. One of the first things you should do is to have an arborist check out the tree to be sure that you do not have a safety hazzard. While there he can tell you whether or not the tree can be saved. The yellow pages have a listing under Arborist. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 9 01:12:24 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:12:24 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus dying Your grapefruit is showing some serious stress. The first thing that I would do is to deep water the tree adequately. Was the tree watered while you were away? How much and how often? If you cut away more than 15% of the tree when you heavy pruned it, this would put the tree under stress. Then there is the age factor, at 30 years it is probably on its way down hill. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From mhills_sro@msn.com Wed Aug 9 05:38:32 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 22:38:32 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page - St. Augustinegrass S.A.D. or St. Augustine Decline is not as common in the Valley of the Sun as in the more humid Southeastern U.S., but it does show up here periodically - especially in the hot summer - especially during our summer monsoons. Other possible causes of dying St. Augustine that are more common, may include: 1) sudden changes in shade/sun patterns - St. Aug. gets adjusted to shade and then a tree dies, blows down or is removed and the resultant sun blast can shock the grass and kill portions. Raise the mow height and lengthen the water application to help it adjust to the new, sunnier hotter climate since the shade is gone 2) soil compaction - this can come on slowly over several years in yards with higher traffic patterns - kids, dogs, parties, etc. See how hard it is to stick a long screw driver into the soil a day after watering - if the ground is very hard it can be difficult for the grass to thrive, unless you renovate the soil a bit. Rent a core aerator (NOT a dethatcher!) and pass over the yard to improve the drainage and improve the airflow to the grass plants' roots. You can then broadcast either sand or mulch/compost over the holes and rake it in so that it settles into the holes where the cores were removed. Deeper watering and a taller summer mow height can help the remaining grass plants survive the summer to eventually get healthier and recover. 3) Inadeqaute water and/or salt buildup - St.Augustinegrass is fairly salt tolerant, but it does like water and often in the summer we find that people are not watering it quite enough to make this grass happy, or enough water to keep the salts flushed through the soil profile. Check your watering schedule and water application amounts compared to the current lawn watering rate recommendations in your water bill, or check the University of Arizona Maricopa County Extension Master Gardener website for water and fertilizer and care recommendation details specific to St. Augustinegrass. If you cannot find these details, then please email your mailing address to my personal email at mhills_sro@msn.com and I will mail you a St.Augustinegrass recommended care sheet. 4) check that nobody has applied any excessive fertlizer to the grass recently - too heavy an application in the summer heat, can often burn the grass out in patches. 5) lastly - and hard to clearly ID, is St. Augustinegrass Decline disease. No real simple answer on treating it to prevent spread and no simple way to be sure that this is what you have. Under any and all of these above situations, the grass can recover as long as you double check your care patterns and habits and make sure that it is getting the proper level of care for St. Augustinegrass. Raise the mow height in summer to 3-4 inches tall and never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height or it will scalp and brown out. Increase watering duration in the summer so that you are watering for longer periods, but less frequently - this will let the water go deeper into the soil which pushes salts down and improves the health of the grass. A light watering fairly often does not do the grass any good and will set the turf up for a stress reaction the first time that you miss a watering during summer heat stress. St. Augustinegrass seed is very rarely available, but you can still help fill in the bare spots in the turf. Rake out the dead grass in those areas, dig in some compost or mulch and then rake the prepared area smooth. Now go into healthy areas and dig out small pieces of the grass with roots intact. Transplant these cuttings into the prepared areas and water well. These cuttings should root in easily and start to spread and fill in the bare areas. Anyway, hope that some of this information clicks for you and helps to answer your questions. Please feel free to contact the Master Gardener question line or my personal email address with any further questions you may have. Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County email mhills_sro@msn.com *********************************************** -----Original Message----- From: stevekop@hotmail.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Wednesday, August 02, 2000 10:55 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardenerI have about a half acre St. Augustine lawn near downtown Tempe, where we have flood irrigigation. Within the last few months, the St. Augustine is dying in patches. It first turns brown, then dies entirely. Bermuda and assorted weeds tend to fill the dead areas. I recently read about St. Augustine Decline in Florida. Is that virus common in Arizona? Is it likely that is the cause? If so, is there any cure or preventative measures? Is there any other likely cause? Thanks for the help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > From LusterSal@aol.com Wed Aug 9 15:15:20 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:15:20 -0700 (MST) From: LusterSal@aol.com LusterSal@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My ficus tree has brown spots on the leaves, almost as if they have been burned. The tree gets full sun all day and is on the southwest side of the house. What should I do about this problem? Any help / advise would be appreciated! From djwright@uswest.net Wed Aug 9 14:44:11 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 07:44:11 -0700 (MST) From: djwright@uswest.net djwright@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we are getting holes approx. the size of pencil leads in some of our peppers. We can find no signs of insect or birds doing the damagenor do we find any insect evidence inside the peppers. any suggestions. Dale Wright From RNikolaev@aol.com Wed Aug 9 00:20:12 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 17:20:12 -0700 (MST) From: RNikolaev@aol.com RNikolaev@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have had several plants and trees die this summer along the east edge of our property which backs up to a golf course. Is there a way to have the soil tested to find out what might be the cause before we replace the plantings? Thank you for your help. From ldd1tus@hotmail.com Wed Aug 9 15:29:55 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:29:55 -0700 (MST) From: ldd1tus@hotmail.com ldd1tus@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted sod (bermuda from a local garden shop)about two years ago. During the winter I plant winter annual rye with good results last winter. This summer I have two problems. 1. When I fertilized with a weed control granulated product it seemed to slow the growth of areas where there was overlap and excessive fertilizer...will the weed control slow/kill bermudagrass? 2. I have what seems as renegade bermuda that has runners throughout the healthy grass that is healthy but has a golden tinge to it that implies that it is dying from lack of water (which is not true). Is this another type of grass or is it what bermudagrass does under certain conditions/soil types etc.? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Aug 9 15:49:35 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 08:49:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dichondra flea beetle Chris: Had you received a response to your question? If not, I located the following information on the Net from the University of California Statewide Integrated Pest Management Project. http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r785300711.html Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Chris Jones wrote: > What control measures and insecticides are recommended for dichondra flea > beetle infestations? > > Christopher Jones, Extension Agent > Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs > > The University of Arizona > Gila County Cooperative Extension > 1177 Monroe Street > Globe, AZ 85501 > > Ph: (520) 425-7179 > FAX: (520) 425-0265 > E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu From slmend@aol.com Wed Aug 9 15:55:49 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 08:55:49 -0700 (MST) From: slmend@aol.com slmend@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are newly arrived from Nebraska and have lived in the midwest all our lives. Yesterday I removed a dead orange tree. We have heard that "cocktail" trees are an option to a one fruit tree. We have an irrigated yard and a lovely producing lemon tree. The dead tree was removed from the backyard, sunny all day and at the "source of the irrigation." Do you suggest replanting in the same location? Do you recommend Cocktail trees? If so, what is a reliable source? We live in the central corridor of Phoenix. Thank you. Sharon From tslevins@u.arizona.edu Wed Aug 9 16:58:12 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 09:58:12 -0700 (MST) From: tslevins@u.arizona.edu tslevins@u.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we live in ahwatukee and would like to transplant our desert sage shrub and a mexican bird of paradise. is this possible? if so how could we do it? we also have humming bird shrubs that are very dry and brown at the base. it is a woody shrub with stalks that mainly lay down with some up growth. i think the botanical name started with a z... not sure now. they produce nice orange/red trupmet like blooms with some light green leave toward the top of stalk. how can I take care of this shrub. is this a normal look? thanks for your time, tami sue From j_harrell@NetZero.net Wed Aug 9 22:01:46 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 15:01:46 -0700 From: Jackie and Bill Harrell j_harrell@NetZero.net Subject: [AG] Tomato planting time Hi, Can somebody tell me why the Extension Service planting calendars say to plant tomatoes July 1 to August 1, but the nurseries don't get them in for another few weeks. Also the peppers say to plant July 1-July 15, and those aren't in for weeks yet, either. Thanks, Jackie _______________________________________________ Why pay for something you could get for free? NetZero provides FREE Internet Access and Email http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html From kdpi@yahoo.com Wed Aug 9 23:07:11 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 16:07:11 -0700 (MST) From: kdpi@yahoo.com kdpi@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to grow a palm or palm like plant, (something airy that grows four or five feet tall, or can be maintained at that height), in a pot at the edge of my patio. The location get the afternoon sun. Is there anything that can survive the hot afternoon sun? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:10:57 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:10:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Trees dying If you haven't increased the amount of water that you are irrigating with then you should check out your irrigation system. I hear this same story all the time and 90% of the time the fault is with improper irrigation. This spring and summer have been so hot that plants without proper irrigation will not make it. Check out thhe Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If you decide to have a soil test done, there are several listed in the yellow pages under Laboratories. I have used IAS Labs several times. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:11:01 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:11:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus trees with brown spots on the leaves I have been told that California grown ficus trees may sometimes develope black spots on the leaves and this does not happen with the Arizona trees. The problem could be caused by improper irrigation. If you will reply with the age of the tree and how much and how often you are irrigating I'ii be glad to advise you. Check out this website on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:11:00 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:11:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Grass dying from too much fertilizer Too much fertiliiizer or weed killer can damage or kill your grass. It is very important to follow the instructions on the bag. If you will bring a sample of the renegade bermuda to U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 we will try to identify it for you. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener From saz621@primenet.com Thu Aug 10 00:29:18 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Aug 2000 17:29:18 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tami Sue, You certain can trasnplant your desert sage and Mexican bird of paradise. You could move them right now but especially for the sage you would have to be very careful about watering it. Moving it in such high temperatures can make for more stress than it can take sometimes. It is very easy to move around once the weather cools a bit, say in October. The bird would probably prefer to be moved now, while it is still warm enough for it to grow and recover. Because the bird is a little cold sensitive it is best not to move it between October and February. The plant with brown is probably Zauschneria californica, California fuschia and that look is very normal right now. It may be wanting a little more water but otherwise if there is green, it will sharp up come the cooler weather. Try giving it a very hard prune in late January and that will improve its form a lot. Good luck, Mary Irish tslevins@u.arizona.edu wrote: > arid_gardenerwe live in ahwatukee and would like to transplant our desert sage shrub and a mexican bird of paradise. is this possible? if so how could we do it? > > we also have humming bird shrubs that are very dry and brown at the base. it is a woody shrub with stalks that mainly lay down with some up growth. i think the botanical name started with a z... not sure now. they produce nice orange/red trupmet like blooms with some light green leave toward the top of stalk. how can I take care of this shrub. is this a normal look? thanks for your time, tami sue > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 00:31:53 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 20:31:53 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Small palms The pygmy date palm which grows to 6 to 8 feet tall, and the Sago Palm which grows 6 to 10 feet tall could be choices for you. Check them out on line at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Thu Aug 10 00:29:09 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 17:29:09 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Mediterranean Fan Palm which does well - though mine's in the ground. It gets the hot afternoon sun and needs almost no care. My book says it can be used in containers. But I'd get a big container since these palms get wide. But you can reduce the width by trimming it periodically and not giving it too much water. The book also says: "Accepts neglect without complaint, but grows faster and large with ample feedings and water". Also "Bold accent, tropical effect". Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of kdpi@yahoo.com Sent: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 4:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardenerI want to grow a palm or palm like plant, (something airy that grows four or five feet tall, or can be maintained at that height), in a pot at the edge of my patio. The location get the afternoon sun. Is there anything that can survive the hot afternoon sun? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From tdpm-4@juno.com Thu Aug 10 05:00:04 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:00:04 -0700 (MST) From: tdpm-4@juno.com tdpm-4@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there a lemon or lime tree that will produce citrus into the summer months? From tdpm-4@juno.com Thu Aug 10 05:01:40 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:01:40 -0700 (MST) From: tdpm-4@juno.com tdpm-4@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? From toomanydrinksaway@aol.com Thu Aug 10 05:36:58 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2000 22:36:58 -0700 (MST) From: toomanydrinksaway@aol.com toomanydrinksaway@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently received an Anna apple tree that I planted in my backyard. What are some do's and don'ts I should know about? From saz621@primenet.com Thu Aug 10 15:48:46 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 08:48:46 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Mediterranean fan palm Ursula, You can indeed prune your palm to reduce both height and width. It is best to prune palms when it is warm. You won't have too hold it back with 'not giving it too much water' if it is in a container as the container will have a bonsai effect on the plant as well. Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 18:55:48 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 11:55:48 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [Using Lime to Improve Soil ----- Original Message ----- From: >Will adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? The term "caliche" is used to describe a crusty layer of calcium carbonate, a type of lime, at or near the surface of the soil. The only way to get rid of it is to remove it and haul it away. When it is below the soil surface, you can sometimes temporarily provide drainage by punching holes through it but the best solution is to remove it. Soil that is merely compacted is often mistaken for caliche. It can be broken up by deep watering and then tilling after a few days while it is still soft but not too wet. This soil condition can best be improved by mixing in compost and sulfur. Compost should be added annually because the organic material seems to dissolve in our soil which is highly alkaline due to evaporation from the surface leaving salt residues and to the highly alkaline reaction of the irrigation water. Pelleted and flaked soil sulfur is slow-acting, often takes one garden season before it becomes effective, but it is relatively long lasting. Wetable sulfur powders and liquids are fast acting but the effect is short-lived. Adding agricultural gypsum, a type of calcium sulfate, also helps loosen he soil. Adding lime will exacerbate the high pH condition and is not recommended. It would take lots of sand to effect a permanent change in the soil texture and is seldom necessary. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 19:12:35 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:12:35 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomato planting time ----- Original Message -----From: "Jackie and Bill Harrell" >... > Can somebody tell me why the Extension Service planting calendars say > to plant tomatoes July 1 to August 1, but the nurseries don't get them > in for another few weeks. Also the peppers say to plant July 1-July 15, > and those aren't in for weeks yet, either. > My copy of the planting calendar says July 15 - Aug 15 for tomatoes which I also believe to be a bit early. But you can't really go by when the nurseries have them for sale. They will only stock whatever is saleable and tomato plants would be a pretty hard sell in July and August when few people are thinking about gardening. But they will sell them all winter long because people will buy them even though it may not be the best time to plant. I haven't grown fall tomatoes for a number of years because it was a lot of work for very little return. As I recall, setting out transplants around Labor Day may yield a few ripe tomatoes, depending on the variety, but there will be quite a few green ones that won't ripen until late February with the warmer weather warms. I am acquainted with gardeners who plant tomatoes in October for a spring crop. Last year, frost protection wasn't necessary but it is required during "normal" Phoenix winters. I usually have pretty good success with a second crop in the in the fall with spring-planted peppers. It is pretty easy to keep peppers going through the summer compared with tomatoes which are more prone to wilts and blights during their dormant summer period. Olin From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Thu Aug 10 21:32:23 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 14:32:23 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I read in the book "Secrets to Great Soil" by Elizabeth P. Stell that growing alfalfa (green manure) will help break up caliche. The roots of alfalfa evidently break it up. On Wed, 9 Aug 2000 tdpm-4@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardenerWill adding sand and lime (type s) to caliche soil improve drainage? If they do, what portions should be used? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From deniseorjohn@home.com Thu Aug 10 16:56:24 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 09:56:24 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted 3 - 1 gallon Italian cypresses in May. I know not to expect much if any growth during the summers here in Phoenix, but I noticed the top of the main stalk , the vertical growing tip, is dead wood now, although the rest of the plants seem fine. I snapped of the tops hoping to encourage new growth so they will continue to grow vertically. Should I prune the top down more to green wood, and exactly where would I prune? I want to encourage fast growth on the plants. Thanks so much! From evepanis@excite.com Thu Aug 10 19:02:06 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 12:02:06 -0700 (MST) From: evepanis@excite.com evepanis@excite.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, My question may be alittle different; I have a large terrarium, very warm conditions, because this is a bearded dragon lizards home, Anyway I was told I could plant a succulant called Haworthia in his cage and this plant is perfectly safe if he were to eat any and it is a tuff plant as far as abuse and heat conditions in tank!!! Is this palnt safe and non-toxic ??? Would appreciate answer before I use it. Thankyou so much, regards, Eve Panis From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Aug 10 22:22:01 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 15:22:01 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plants for patios The Wednesday Arizona Republic had a full page article on patio trees on the back page of The Good Life section. The article included a listing of patio trees for full sun, full shade and morning sun only. If you know someone who has their copy, you might want to take a look. Sue Bass Master Gardener kdpi@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardenerI want to grow a palm or palm like plant, > (something airy that grows four or five feet > tall, or can be maintained at that height), > in a pot at the edge of my patio. > The location get the afternoon sun. > Is there anything that can survive the hot > afternoon sun? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 10 23:02:18 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 16:02:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sounds a lot like grackles or some other bird. Grackles often peck holes that size in citrus. Except for the holes, I'm not certain birds would leave any other sign. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >we are getting holes approx. the size of pencil leads in >some of our peppers. We can find no signs of insect >or birds doing the damage nor do we find any insect >evidence inside the peppers. any suggestions. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 10 23:12:31 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 19:12:31 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer ripening citrus Sorry, but we do not have much choice in citrus that will ripen in the summer. Lemons will ripen during the period of September thru April. The lime comes the closest to what you are looking for. The variety Bearss ripens from july thru November. The Bearss is very frost tender and should not be planted in the colder areas of the valley, and when you do plant one, find the most sheltered spot in your yard. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 13:39:04 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 06:39:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Palm Trimming Equipment Your question hasn't yet been answered, and while I can't specifically address the issue of manual vs power tools, I've several sites to suggest to you to investigate. One is the Intl Palm Society, which has an online chat function, at http://www.palms.org/ Our own publication on Landscape Palms has basic guidance for pruning, but does not discuss the tools http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf I have seen pictures of telescoping power pruners [found with a search engine under tree trimming], which looks like a little chain saw on a very long stick. You could also check out an equipment rating website such as Garden Review and get info on people's personal experience with equipment. This is a fun website where you can win some good stuff if you 'enter' yourself by supplying your opinions on anything from seed catalogs to tools to barbecue grills. Linda Guy Master Gardener appliedc@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardenerHi, > I recently had a Mexican Fan Palm trimmed. It was done by a climber with a chainsaw. Being tinker of sorts I was wondering if you know of any machine/manufacturer of a palm trimming machine. Noticing newly planted skinned palms, I was wondering if this is done by hand. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > John chen > appliedc@hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 13:59:25 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 06:59:25 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Options As a general rule, bermuda grasses and hybrids are the turf of choice in the low desert home environment, barring special circumstances like shade. As a playground for pets and kids, Midiron and Santa Ana hold up well and can take a higher mowing height...mine gets mowed only weekly. This compares to the 'tifs' that are cut shorter and produce the putting green effect. According to some material from last year's Master Gardener Conference, other turf options are not generally the best choice for the novice gardener, meaning extra effort. Dichondra is decorative though not a grass, and is not suitable for high traffic. Zoysia prefers neutral to acid soil and can be chlorotic. St. Augustine is the standard for shade. Buffalo grass is not recommended for high traffic [it's great if you want to leave your yard unmown, looking like a field, though]. Fescue is most often a cool season grass, used with some success in the summer for shaded spots. So where does this leave you? In a state of re-evaluating your yard for those key areas where lawn is an absolute must and removing it in those areas where trees, perennial borders, herb beds,etc. would be suitable and out of the way of the children's romping spots. If you decide to remove the lawn, your window of opportunity is closing for this year. Turf needs to be removed [unless you are digging out the top 8-12"] during its growing season. Let me know if you want further advice on this process. Linda Guy Master Gardener Gadkin@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardenerHello, > Do you have any information about alternative/artificial grass systems. > Our current lawn is consuming large amounts of water and time to maintain > but we would still like and area for our children to play. I'm hoping > that there might be an alternative that is easy on the knees and friendlier > to the environment. > > Thank you for a response, > Kim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 14:17:05 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 07:17:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pest ID: Fungus Gnats? I only know fungus gnats as a pest of houseplants, because the soil is where the larva reside. Lacking houseplants, compost buckets and the like in the house, I wonder if you truly have fungus gnats. I have a strong suspicion it is some other pest. Unless you have container plants directly outside your doors and windows? I'm not sure what you meant by bombing your house 3x ....was this a professionally applied treatment following the firm's positive id of the problem? What did they say the insect was? One pest that can crop up from time to time in the kitchen, and which comes in with packages of dried rice, cereals, pasta dishes is weevils. They are tiny, but they clearly look like little beetles rather than gnats. If you think this is your problem, let me know if you need assistance with prevention and control. What I can suggest is that you bring some specimens in a jar, along with a write-up of the problem [they look and act like fungus gnats, but there are no houseplants, house was treated 3x with a particular chemical, etc.] to the Maricopa County Extension office, where a weekly diagnostic session deals with homeowner problems like yours. [4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener mpclever@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardenerHelp! I appear to have an infestation of fungus gnats, problem is, I have NO houseplants, aluminum can recycle bin and kitchen trash have been relocated 15 feet away from the house outside. All remidies I have read about all have to do with care of houseplants. I have no fruit out of the refrigerator, and I have cleaned every kitchen cabinet, including thoroughly under the sink (thinking it may be stagnent water)trying to find were they are nesting. I have also "bombed" my house three times in six weeks with NO improvement. Please help me, I have stopped cooking for my husband and children because I don't want the gnats in our food, and we are getting tired of eating out :) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Aug 11 14:27:06 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Aug 2000 07:27:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Slug Management Copper flashing [any home improvement store] is an option; other methods of control are listed on our site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/snail.htm One low tech but very effective way to rid yourself of these nighttime prowlers is to put out a few strategically placed boards or newspapers for them to hide under during the day. Manually remove them as they aggregate there. Your garden will also benefit by cleaning up all debris which provide additional 'habitat'. DE [not the pool stuff] is easily washed away. I don't know about the harm for pets/kids, as I always thought the issue was breathing it in. Since there are other options for you to try, hopefully my lack of knowledge on the topic of toxicity won't be a problem for you! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener momoftwo@home.com wrote: > arid_gardenerSlugs have been eating my vegetable garden. What can I use to get rid of them which is safe around young kids and pets. Neither will walk in it as it is a raised bed. I've read that diatomaceous earth doesn't work when wet, can be a fatal if dogs lick paws covered with DE and it has a strong cancer warning. With all this in mind with caution can it still be used as a barrier? Where can you buy it? I read copper also works. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ddwight@speedchoice.com Fri Aug 11 01:07:25 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2000 18:07:25 -0700 (MST) From: ddwight@speedchoice.com ddwight@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is cabbage grown locally? I am looking for a dense head to use for sauerkraut making. Your advice is appreciated. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Fri Aug 18 17:01:42 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 10:01:42 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Drip in the Vegetable Garden I'm trying to figure out how to water my vegetable garden with drip. I've got a 4'x4' container and am using the 'Square foot Gardening' system. Tomatoes are easy becase they are 1 per square foot and I can use one emmiter. But there are 16 carrots to the square foot and I can't figure out how to water them. I could use drip sprinklers but what happens when the plants, lettuce, bush beans get up too high? Tried a drip soaker, but it has holes every six inches. I'm at a loss. - Jim From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Fri Aug 18 21:24:23 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 14:24:23 -0700 (MST) From: sramos@tusd.k12.az.us sramos@tusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our mesquite tree that is about 16 ft. tall, very bushy, keeps cracking from the top, in the middle. We do trim the branches because of the weight. Would it help if we gave it vitamins, etc. Or is it to late to stop it from cracking every time its windy. Any help you may give me will be appreciated. Thank You. From shapiro@azstarnet.com Sat Aug 19 10:14:21 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 04:14:21 -0600 From: Erik Shapiro shapiro@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] please remove me from list, thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Aug 21 01:58:39 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 18:58:39 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Arid Gardener --------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Pauline: The last I heard from the University, they were going to run a reinstall on Thursday night. If they didn't work, it sounded like they were going to go back to using Majordomo instead of Mailman as the server. I haven't received anything so it is apparently not working yet. I'll inform the list if an when I hear something. Thanks for writing. Sue Bass Listserve Manager Pauline Marx wrote: > Hi Sue, I haven't gotten any Arid Gardener questions or > responses since you sent that test thingee out the other > day. Is there a problem or is everyone out in the pool > instead of in the garden ? Pauline --------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Pauline:
The last I heard from the University, they were going to run a reinstall on Thursday night.  If they didn't work, it sounded like they were going to go back to using Majordomo instead of Mailman as the server.  I haven't received anything so it is apparently not working yet.  I'll inform the list if an when I hear something.  Thanks for writing.

Sue Bass
Listserve Manager
Pauline Marx wrote:

Hi Sue,  I haven't gotten any Arid Gardener questions or responses since you sent that test thingee out the other day.  Is there a problem or is everyone out in the pool instead of in the garden ?  Pauline
--------------6C020D49FA84566A0D75AB94-- From doryvan@aol.com Mon Aug 21 02:55:39 2000 Date: Sun, 20 Aug 2000 19:55:39 -0700 (MST) From: doryvan@aol.com doryvan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I miss getting the Arid_gardener email questons and answers. How do I 're-enlist'? From bilnanaz@cs.com Mon Aug 21 15:24:07 2000 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 08:24:07 -0700 (MST) From: bilnanaz@cs.com bilnanaz@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When can Oleander be trimmed back severely? From RAM6260@AOL.COM Fri Aug 18 23:57:29 2000 Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2000 16:57:29 -0700 (MST) From: RAM6260@AOL.COM RAM6260@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have ficus trees, queen palms, roses and shrubs all on the same drip system. I am planning to put the trees and queen palms on a separate bubbler irrigation line that also has my citrus trees. Do you think this is a good plan. Thanks. From SMoore7627@aol.com Sat Aug 19 15:09:22 2000 Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2000 08:09:22 -0700 (MST) From: SMoore7627@aol.com SMoore7627@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grapefr