From KBea913903@aol.com Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:11:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:11:18 -0700 From: by way of Patti Baciewicz KBea913903@aol.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees; grasses Dear Patti; When your orange trees begin bearing sour fruit on trees that were usually sweet, could that be the result of cross-pollination from nearby lemon or grapefruit trees? Also, would Zoysia grass work well here in the valley? According to the ads, it thrives best in heat but there are no temperatures available as to limitations. This grass was quite popular in Maryland, turning brown in late Fall but greening nicely in the Spring of the year. It required little maintenance, little water and could be mowed less. The only problem created was it grew in thick masses and would smother itself out requiring plugging sections out now and again. Beautiful grass. Thanks for any advice you may provide. Mrs. Beasley kbea913903@aol.com From pierce7@home.net Mon, 31 Jan 2000 14:00:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 14:00:17 -0700 (MST) From: pierce7@home.net pierce7@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my lawn is bermuda grass. I want a nice thick lawn this summer. What can I do? My ground is very hard in place and grass will not grow. should I get top soil, thatch or eriade my lawn please help From fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:23:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:23:19 -0700 (MST) From: fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in a fertilization chart for citrus trees. What to apply, when, and how much. These are newly planted trees. From abayha@msad71.net Tue, 1 Feb 2000 08:33:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 08:33:28 -0700 (MST) From: abayha@msad71.net abayha@msad71.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. From hteckhoff@aol.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:06:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:06:29 -0700 (MST) From: hteckhoff@aol.com hteckhoff@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. H. From charmain@ctaz.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:58:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:58:04 -0700 (MST) From: charmain@ctaz.com charmain@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Lake Havasu City and I am very interested in a fairly new variety of Navel Orange called Cara Cara for my home garden. Where may these trees be purchased? They are considered excellent for growing in our low desert but I cannot find them. Please help. From dmkerr@dancris.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:33:57 -0700 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:33:57 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size = of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of = the head. What can I do to stop this? ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are = bolting. The=20 heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow = flowers=20 forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop=20 this?

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0-- From jdoucet@futureone.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) From: jdoucet@futureone.com jdoucet@futureone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the best varities of tomato plants for this area. From brederick@uswest.net Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:57 -0700 (MST) From: brederick@uswest.net brederick@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an Arizona Sweet Orange tree which has a new problem. I have found 3 or 4 oranges with a hole near the bottom. The hole ranges from about the size of a "BB" to .4" diameter. Around the hole are small larvae which look like the things you find in wheat or cereal when it gets wormey. Do you have any idea what these are? I have never had them before. Is there anything I should do other than pick the fruit and trash-can it? Thanks for the help. Bob Rederick From slimjimwin@uswest.net Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:14:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:14:20 -0700 (MST) From: slimjimwin@uswest.net slimjimwin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently bought my first house and have never had a garden or planted grass or even had a plant. My question is a basic one. I want to have a lawn in my backyard but I am not sure where to start. Do I just throw out the seed and pray, or is there something I can do to prep the ground? Any help you can give me I would appreciate. From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:12:23 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:12:23 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato varieties for Phx Hi there: For what it's worth...we have had pretty good luck with Early Girls and excellent results with Sweet 100s (a cherry tomato) here in the Phoenix area. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 1 >Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) >From: jdoucet@futureone.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >What are the best varities of tomato plants >for this area. > Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:22:15 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:22:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overtilling Soil I don't find specific mention of this in our Home Horticulture publications. But my sense [and perhaps residual from my old days in 4-H] is that yes, it is possible to overwork your soil. I read something recently in the Gardens Alive! catalog that suggests that everytime we till, we destroy a natural network of microbes that is present. HOWEVER, our soil just cries for organic material and we need to get it into the soil once or twice a year at a minimum. So, I believe you are doing your soil a great justice with your current semi-annual practice. The presence of earthworms is a testament! [You will see more of them in the winter when they are closer to the surface; they retreat from the heat in the summer.] And no, you don't get two live earthworms when you cut one in half! Just be sure the soil is dried out enough (just moist) when you till. You can ruin the soil texture by working it when it is too wet. Linda Guy Master Gardener henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to overtill (rototiller) a patch of ground set aside for gardening someday? I till in composted leaves,etc. every 5-6 months just to keep my tiller operational. I do find lots of earthworms when I do the tilling. How often can I till my gardening area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:34:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:34:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Composting Links available from our own website are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost We have a publication Q230 Make Your Own Compost which is not, unfortunately, on line. You can view a copy at the local library in the reference section which has all our Home Horticulture publications. Copies are available at our office (free if you drop in) else send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Many local municipal solid waste management departments support home composting by giving away free [or for a nominal fee] compost bins and manuals. Contact yours to see if this program is available. If not, the cities of Phoenix and Chandler do so, though I'm not sure if you need to be a resident. Finally, SRP's Environmental Services area (602/236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one; they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting efforts, too. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jjewett@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you send me some links, or information about composting. I have an idea how the process works, but not the details. I love to garden, and am frustrated by the soil around my house. Any ideas on how I can improve the situation? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:59 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:59 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family, It's been an unusually balmy winter and most cool season crops are performing as they would more reasonably be expected to do in March when the days warm in a more typical pattern. I don't consider your broccoli's activity unusual: we consume what are the flower buds and they are doing what they do naturally which is produce pretty yellow flowers. The answer is to share the broccoli with your neighbors, find every conceivable recipe for broccoli you can, or learn how to freeze it. As to its size, my personal experience suggests that the variety is key. Not all varieties sold in the nurseries produce heads the size of those in the grocery store, nor do they all have high yielding side shoots. Unfortunately, I just ran to the garden and the grackles have carried away this year's broccoli marker, otherwise I'd have shared the name of the best performer I've had in years. I too am eating a ton of broccoli these recent weeks! Cut those heads and see what your side shoots will begin bearing. I suppose you could also experiment with a very light shade cloth...but I suspect the plants have started the blooming cycle and you may not be able to back track. Eat hearty! Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the > size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the > base of the head. What can I do to stop this? --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family,

It's been an unusually balmy winter and most cool season crops are performing as they would more reasonably be expected to do in March when the days warm in a more typical pattern. I don't consider your broccoli's activity unusual: we consume what are the flower buds and they are doing what they do naturally which is produce pretty yellow flowers.

The answer is to share the broccoli with your neighbors, find every conceivable recipe for broccoli you can, or learn how to freeze it. As to its size, my personal experience suggests that the variety is key. Not all varieties sold in the nurseries produce heads the size of those in the grocery store, nor do they all have high yielding side shoots. Unfortunately, I just ran to the garden and the grackles have carried away this year's broccoli marker, otherwise I'd have shared the name of the best performer I've had in years. I too am eating a ton of broccoli these recent weeks!

Cut those heads and see what your side shoots will begin bearing. I suppose you could also experiment with a very light shade cloth...but I suspect the plants have started the blooming cycle and you may not be able to back track.

Eat hearty!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop this?

--------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7-- From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:50 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Hummingbird gardens Salvias, penstemons, zauschnerias, fairy dusters (calliandras), aloes, mallows, lavenders...I could go on and on. Better than that, I'll direct you to our online publication whose chart not only shows which flowers are apt to attract these delightful little critters, but also what time of the year the plants bloom so you can have year round color! It's AZ1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Have fun! Linda Guy Master Gardener jerrymarkell@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Am starting a hummingbird garden in Mesa would > like a list of plants for a drip irrigated > area to attract hummingbirds for our enjoyment > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:53:28 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:53:28 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis You're way out of my league! But do try a few of these fun sites: www.howstuffworks.com howthingswork.virginia.edu www.madsci.org Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener sprchal@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > hi! > i was wondering if you knew how atrazine > effects photosynthesis? if not, do you > know any site which could help me with > this bilogy question? > > thank you, > sarah prchal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Soil Conditioning I may be old-fashioned, but I believe that Mother Nature is a powerful energy that can take care of herself well; quite well if we assist a bit. I've never been overly concerned about construction detritus....A few years back I converted a old common bermuda lawn, and turned up construction slag, nails, etc from when the house had been built in 1955. No real harm had seemed to come to any of the plant material, old or new. I'd start by raking out the big chunks of whatever is left, put in at least 4 to 6 inches of compost material and water very very well. Let the material cook in the soil at least two weeks before planting. For the kind of soil we have and the kind of gardening it appears you want to do, adding organic material is the single best thing you can do, besides leaching with water. I only use compost and basic organic fertilizers so I'm not familiar with OMNI. I do know that we don't often recommend gypsum, and you can read about it in our publication on nutrients at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1020.pdf Linda Guy Master Gardener ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have just recently had an old,plain block wall fence stuccoed and painted. Unfortunately this is an area where I plant flowers along it, in the Spring and the Fall.I didn't plant any flowers this past Fall, because I knew that we were going to do this project. But I would like to plant flowers again this Spring. I always amend my soil with OMNI, Bone Meal,and gypsum before planting my flowers. What I would like to know; Should I do anything else to the soil, since it has been exposed to all the cement and paint chemicals. Naturally, alot of that stuff gets watered into the soil.I hope that you have a suggestion.Thanks! h > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:27:43 EST Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:27:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Starting a New Lawn Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf Grass @ http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/prep.html Good luck. Rodhttp://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From dblimke@msn.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:13:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:13:16 -0700 (MST) From: dblimke@msn.com dblimke@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page where do you start with a area that has no grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 04 Feb 2000 15:35:24 -0700 Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 15:35:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Starting a new yard from scratch Hello! And Welcome to Arizona! We moved here from Illinois about five years ago and while I love it, gardening here felt like gardening on the moon to me at first! Which is why I enrolled in the Master Gardener program. The course gave me a good foundation for gardening in the low desert and enabled to share what I have learned with others. That said, may I recommend a book that I find very useful? It is the Sunset Western Garden Book and it can be found at most nurseries, garden centers and home centers such as Home Depot. The first section of the book is a Plant Selection Guide and is broken down into categories such as: "Plants to use near swimming pools" which was one of your questions. Its great - it lists trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, perennials. Nice photos and it directs you to the plant encyclopedia section for details about each plant. It also has a good section on watering techniques, which is crucial information for this area. If you haven't done so already, please take a look at our web site: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ You can find a lot of useful information here including a Timely Tips section which is a month by month calendar for gardening, an archive of past questions asked regarding Landscape problems, and be sure to check out our events calendar! In March the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension service will be presenting the Basic Desert Gardening Series, a series of classes useful to anyone new to the valley. For more information on these courses you may contact Lori Thompson at (602) 470-8086, ext. 309. Finally, my husband and I visited the Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum to familiarize ourselves with low desert plants. We got ideas for trees, shrubs and plants that we wanted to incorporate into our yard. Then we interviewed several landscapers before deciding on the one we wanted to work with. We looked for someone who was willing to work with our ideas and fine tune them into a workable plan. I hope this helps. Maybe some of my colleagues will have more information that will help. Good Luck to you! Don't let the idea of creating a brand new landscape scare you. Just take it a step at a time, get ideas of what you like and it can be a lot of fun. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer cadblimke@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > where do you start with a area that has no > grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to > run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:05:25 EST Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:05:25 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape and pool planing If your future plans call for a pool I would suggest that you contact a pool company for a layout and find out what part of your yard will be affected by the construction equipment required to build your pool. You could then have a landscaper give you a design that would be the least affected when you do build the pool. There is loads of information on the project you are about to undertake in the Master Gardener Manual which is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:16:50 EST Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:16:50 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis Concerning the question about ATRAZINE and how it affects photosynthesis.. ATRAZINE is a carbon based compound found inherbicides and some pesticides (for ants and some slugs). Obviously, as an herbicide to kill unwanted plants and vegetation, it disrupts the photosynthetic cycle of a plant, resulting in eventual death. If you go to the web and search for ATRAZINE, many sites are revealed that can further discourse beyond my immediate knowledge. I do know that there are groundwater issues revolving aroung this chemical as a major pollutant. This was a good question and I hope the lead proves interesting. From pfhagen1@uswest.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (MST) From: pfhagen1@uswest.com pfhagen1@uswest.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are starting a new garden. Is there a list of vegetable varieties available that do well in Arizona? We are located in New River, AZ, elevation approximately 1,350'. We'd like to be able to print out some information or have it sent to us. Happy gardening, may God bless us with good weather! From Tabeauaz@aol.com Sat, 5 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0700 (MST) From: Tabeauaz@aol.com Tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, these maybe stupid questions, so bare with me- are in-door ficus trees decidious? My recently acquired one is shedding it's leaves like crazy. And, is it possible to take clippings from ivy plants and wandering jews and start new plants( will they grow roots in water and /or how do I successfully go about this? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:26 EST Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:26 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus Tree shedding leaves It is not uncommon for Ficus benjamina trees to drop their leaves when moved or subjected to a change of temperature. Wandering Jew is quite easy to start from cuttings; I've simply put the cuttings in a container of water. You can also put the cutting in a container of potting soil that you keep moist, they root quite fast. I've not tried the Ivy but it should work the same. Good luck. Rod From zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST) From: zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. From tigre@theriver.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:18:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:18:48 -0700 (MST) From: tigre@theriver.com tigre@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page how to prune roses? From ebdive2@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:17:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:17:38 -0700 (MST) From: ebdive2@aol.com ebdive2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Can you please name 3(if there are that many) desert trees which grow rapidly and can do so with no supplemental watering; if it needs a week or so of h2o to begin, that is possible. Thank you for any help you can provide. Elizabeth From cjscountry@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 16:29:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 16:29:02 -0700 (MST) From: cjscountry@aol.com cjscountry@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to know how to best prepare a vegetable garden, specifically fertilizing (best type and procedure). Thanks much! From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:40:32 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:40:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Lettuce Seedlings Hi Suzanne, It could be that you simply planted the lettuce seed too early in the fall, when lettuce still thinks its summer out. Lettuce usually requires cooler soil temps as well as air temps. Your experience of produce being rejuvenated late winter is common; in fact it is a bit early given our particularly balmy winter. Most of the cool season crops go into a pseudo suspended animation when the sun gets low and temps drop, reviving as the sun rises on the horizon bringing springtime. I personally have had poor carrot experiences. For our clay soils, short blunt nosed varieties are said to be the best. A fellow gardener at Az Herb Assn once shared that he added lots of amendments to loosen up the soil for the particular portion of the bed that was for carrots (higher percentage of organic material and even some fine gravel/pumice, as I have for plants like herbs, to improve compaction and drainage). Linda Guy Master Gardener Suzanne Castillo wrote: > Hi Linda, > > Because I started my garden in the summer, I had a lot of problems with "things" eating my seedlings, so I went out to a fabric store and > bought some cheap netting and covered all my beds. This helped. I did the same for the fall, but my carrots never germinated and my greens > started to come in but never got past the two leaf stage. They held on for a long time and then finally died off. Now after almost a month > and a half my radishes and carrots have all of a sudden decided to come up?? I am trying to hang in there, but it is hard. Any suggestions > to get my greens going better? > > Thank you for responding to my e-mail. > > Suzanne > > ps: my two oldest kids 5 &4 love the process and my 11 mo. just loves the dirt, so for them I almost can't stop (smile) > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > Dear Mommy of 3 (how neat!) > > > > Have you watched the activity in your garden? Are you experiencing a lot of birds, who love those darling seedlings? Seems like you are > > otherwise doing well, since your germination rate is so good. How about other critters chomping at them? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > mommyof3@home.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase > > > why? They stayed like this for months. > > > > > > 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:51:51 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:51:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Fertilizer Schedule We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public library. If you want to order it, instructions are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I am interested in a fertilization chart > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:56:26 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:56:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Human Biomass Requirements I've given out these websites before for questions like yours. They come in handy when our seventh grader ponders the cosmos! My other thought would be to connect with the Biosphere in Oracle, Arizona. If anyone knows how much biomass is required per human, they should. www.madsci.org howthingswork.virginia.edu www.howstuff works.com www.wsu.edu/druniverse Linda Guy Master Gardener I abayha@msad71.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:04:31 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:04:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Citrus Young trees are pruned sparingly, removing sucker dead limbs are also removed. Allow a young tree to grow a few seasons before trying to achieve symmetry, which it will with age. If you take off the leaves that fuel the tree's production capability, you're limiting your crop. Wait until frost threat is gone and spring growth commences to prune. Pruning mature citrus is more a matter of aesthetics. They require little, other than removing dead wood and thinning inside shoot growth. Again, eliminate all suckers below the bud union. Linda Guy Master Gardener hteckhoff@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. > H. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Ljames1375@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) From: Ljames1375@aol.com Ljames1375@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? Thank you Laurel From goldnanc@aol.com Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) From: goldnanc@aol.com goldnanc@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to this. So I am forwarding to the list. Sue --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Goldnanc@aol.com Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the list managers, see your request. If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your email address. When you send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have immediate access to the collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. Many lists allow only those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it will just need approval. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer . Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > > Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > can't get the information thru you. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared in the Arizona Republic recently. It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From mmardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Carnations Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From mmardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Roses I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From emardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as particularly well adapted: Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, Celebrity, Red Express, Champion and Patio I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection for container gardening, I'm told. Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate (fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What are the best varities of tomato plants > for this area. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. Linda Guy Master Gardener greygoat@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check out the listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for the month in question. May is the time to start lawns http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm Ella Mardick wrote: > arid_gardener > When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf You can review what the plant material looks like at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm And for more reference material on design, you can use http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy your parts from them. Linda Guy Master Gardener mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > > My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > > Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > > Thank you for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. Linda Guy Master Gardener gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mmardick@brg.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:21:12 -0800 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:21:12 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they= grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea= rose bushes. At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu >You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > >arid_gardener digest > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > >--__--__-- > >Message: 1 >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) >From: Ljames1375@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you= tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this= grass for AZ? > >Thank you > >Laurel > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) >From: goldnanc@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. = There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. = Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with= something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? =20 > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >boundary=3D"------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to >this. So I am forwarding to the list. >Sue > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: message/rfc822 >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Content-Disposition: inline > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >Message-ID: <<389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) >X-Accept-Language: en >MIME-Version: 1.0 >To: Goldnanc@aol.com >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener >References: < >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note= and >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has= been >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include= such >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non= subscribers and >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve= it >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information.= The >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we,= the >list managers, see your request. > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the= address >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid= Gardener. > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to= your >email address. When you >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you= have >immediate access to the >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the= list. >Many lists allow only >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as= soon as >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. = Please >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your= question, it >will just need approval. > >Sincerely, >Sue Bass >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > . >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which= was >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with= e-mails. >> >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route= if I >> can't get the information thru you. > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 4 >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST >To: tigre@theriver.com >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which= appeared=20 >in the Arizona Republic recently. >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes= =20 >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of=20 >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed= =20 >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms=20 >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing =20 >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too= =20 >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base= of=20 >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an= =20 >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every= year.=20 >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by= supplying=20 >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty= =20 >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned= =20 >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and= the=20 >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best=20 >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and= crossing=20 >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to= =20 >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of= the=20 >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice= =20 >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and=20 >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes= grow=20 >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an= open=20 >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work= =20 >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center= of=20 >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest= from=20 >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store= up=20 >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth.=20 > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for= =20 >the bush to start growing again. > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune= earlier=20 >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for= the=20 >bush to turn around. > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller= =20 >areas to prune) > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union.= =20 >This also encourages new basal breaks) > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This= =20 >will prevent cane borers. > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to= dip=20 >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > =20 >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a=20 >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for= =20 >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush..= Leave=20 >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This= method=20 >is best for the average garden.=20 > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few= =20 >large long stemmed blooms of show quality.=20 > > HYBRID TEAS > =20 > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut= =20 >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle,= sloping=20 >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other= =20 >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes= =20 >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the= crown.=20 >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new= =20 >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes=20 >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the= bud=20 >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed.= =20 >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the=20 >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This= will=20 >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This= =20 >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the= =20 >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy= =20 >canes. Remove 1/3 to =BD of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > FLORIBUNDA > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are= more=20 >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes= =20 >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes,= =20 >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3= of=20 >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > GRANDIFLORAS > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > MINIATURES > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to =BD= of=20 >the bush. > > SHRUBS > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like= the=20 >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut= =20 >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences.= =20 >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned= during=20 >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any= dead=20 >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back= to=20 >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best= =20 >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6= =20 >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a=20 >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune= =20 >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut= out=20 >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. =20 >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the= =20 >soil around it with a good fungicide. >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > =20 > > PRUNING TIPS > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > Clean all debris from around the bush. > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane= =20 >borers. > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and= =20 >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the= soil. > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten= =20 >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the=20 >disease. > =20 > >--__--__-- > >Message: 5 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Carnations > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one= gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in= AZ? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 6 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Roses > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I= can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any= way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 7 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Ella Mardick < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >--__--__-- > >Message: 8 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: jdoucet@futureone.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as >particularly well adapted: > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > and Patio > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection >for container gardening, I'm told. > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> What are the best varities of tomato plants >> for this area. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 9 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: greygoat@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and= it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the= female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common= on >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You= might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies= since your trees are engulfed. > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly= review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and= recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect= these at >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E.= Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on= both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to= the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of= it? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 10 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: Ella Mardick < >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the >Master Gardener Manual at >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check >out the listing at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > >Ella Mardick wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 11 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself= why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication= on poolside landscaping at >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > >You can review what the plant material looks like at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library= therein based on your wants, needs and environment. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > >And for more reference material on design, you can use >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you= want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid,= transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even= the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials= chart for you for free if you buy >your parts from them. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design= services. >> >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our= backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone= to lay out the design plan for us. >> >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the= design service. >> >> Thank you for your assistance. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 12 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: gordieFS@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid= defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and= not try to simply water it in. > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a= very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone.= Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10= inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in= February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit= before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March.= Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of= the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or= brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus= fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I= watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could= over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there= anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for= your help!! >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H= E L E M= A R D I C K B= L A I N 8080,0000,8080B= 8080,0000,8080USINESS= RESOURCE= GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From ALNorris@aol.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:59:43 EST Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:59:43 EST From: ALNorris@aol.com ALNorris@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris Over The Garden Gate - TRN From heseig@msn.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:41:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: heseig@msn.com heseig@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help!! This is the 2nd year our cirus trees lemon,orange& grapefruit have had their leaves turn yellow right from early stage ( almost speckled looking) then thetips turn brown and then fall off. fruit is sparse but still on the limbs. Ar first we thought it was because of not enough water but we changed to more and that didn't help. We thought maybe because we didn't fertilize but that didn't help. The people we lived here before had their gray water from the washing machine going to the trees do you think that helped or hurt the trees? We get new leaves and blossoms but when fall/winter comes the trees are barren of leaves. 1 young tree has not been affected!! Any suggestions? Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:45 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:45 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Al: Here is the web site for the Maricopa County Master Gardeners: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer ALNorris@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web > site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris HREF="http://www.overthegardengate.org/">Over The Garden Gate - TRN > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cherrijw@juno.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:12:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:12:56 -0700 (MST) From: cherrijw@juno.com cherrijw@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to plant a lemon tree, but am not sure what type does best in Phoenix. We have an irrigated lot that faces south. Any suggestions would be appreciated. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:12:49 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:12:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Hi Michele, We are just a few Master Gardener volunteers doing the responses. You are among the most recent querents in my inbox of about 25 unanswered questions. You are not forgotten, but sometimes it will be up to a week before we are able to research and respond to a question that we don't already know stone-cold because of our training and/or personal gardening experiences. Hang with us! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea rose bushes. > > At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >You can reach the person managing the list at > > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than > >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > > > >arid_gardener digest > > > >Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 1 > >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) > >From: Ljames1375@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? > > > >Thank you > > > >Laurel > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 2 > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) > >From: goldnanc@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 3 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >boundary="------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" > >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to > >this. So I am forwarding to the list. > >Sue > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: message/rfc822 > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Content-Disposition: inline > > > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 > >Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) > >X-Accept-Language: en > >MIME-Version: 1.0 > >To: Goldnanc@aol.com > >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener > >References: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and > >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming > >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been > >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such > >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and > >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it > >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The > >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the > >list managers, see your request. > > > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address > >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm > >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. > > > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your > >email address. When you > >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have > >immediate access to the > >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. > >Many lists allow only > >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > > > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as > >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please > >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it > >will just need approval. > > > >Sincerely, > >Sue Bass > >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > > > > . > >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > > > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > >> > >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > >> can't get the information thru you. > > > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 4 > >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST > >To: tigre@theriver.com > >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > > > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared > >in the Arizona Republic recently. > >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > > > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes > >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of > >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed > >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms > >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing > >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too > >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of > >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an > >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. > >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying > >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty > >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned > >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the > >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best > >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing > >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to > >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the > >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice > >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and > >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow > >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open > >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work > >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of > >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > > > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from > >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up > >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. > > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for > >the bush to start growing again. > > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier > >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the > >bush to turn around. > > > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller > >areas to prune) > > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. > >This also encourages new basal breaks) > > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This > >will prevent cane borers. > > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip > >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > > > >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a > >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for > >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave > >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method > >is best for the average garden. > > > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few > >large long stemmed blooms of show quality. > > > > HYBRID TEAS > > > > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut > >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping > >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other > >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes > >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. > >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new > >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes > >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud > >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. > >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the > >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will > >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This > >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the > >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy > >canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > > > FLORIBUNDA > > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more > >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes > >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, > >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of > >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > > > GRANDIFLORAS > > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > > > MINIATURES > > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of > >the bush. > > > > SHRUBS > > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the > >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut > >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. > >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during > >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead > >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to > >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best > >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 > >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a > >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune > >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out > >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS > >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. > >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the > >soil around it with a good fungicide. > >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > > > > > > PRUNING TIPS > > > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > > Clean all debris from around the bush. > > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane > >borers. > > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and > >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. > > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten > >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the > >disease. > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 5 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Carnations > > > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 6 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Roses > > > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 7 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: Ella Mardick > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 8 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: jdoucet@futureone.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > > > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as > >particularly well adapted: > > > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears > >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, > >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > > and Patio > > > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to > >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 > >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection > >for container gardening, I'm told. > > > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate > >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then > >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set > >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > > > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large > >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you > >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of > >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's > >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> What are the best varities of tomato plants > >> for this area. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 9 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: greygoat@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > > > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on > >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. > > > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at > >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 10 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: Ella Mardick > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months > >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the > >Master Gardener Manual at > >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > > > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn > >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check > >out the listing at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn > >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. > >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, > >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > > > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, > >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for > >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > > > >Ella Mardick wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 11 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > > > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > > > >You can review what the plant material looks like at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > > > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > > > >And for more reference material on design, you can use > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > > > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the > >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy > >your parts from them. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > >> > >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > >> > >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > >> > >> Thank you for your assistance. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 12 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: gordieFS@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > > > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. > > > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > > > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > > > > > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:46:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:46:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Carnations Michelle: Carnations can be grown here althought I have not done so myself. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book there are two distinct categories of Carnation, which are actually in the dianthus family. Dianthus caryophyllus. One is a border carnation, which I have seen at Home Depot, It is bushier and more compact than the second type, which is the Florist carnation. The border carnation grows to 12-14 in. high. Flowers 2 to 2-1/2 in wide, fragrant, are borne in profusion. Effective as shrub border edgings, in mixed flower border, and in containers. Some of the varieties listed are "Juliet" which makes compact, foot-tall clumps with long production of 2-1/2 in. scarlet flowers. "Luminette", 2 ft tall, is similar. Pixie Delight strain is also similar but includes full range of carnation colors. Knight series has strong stems, blooms in 5 months from seed; Bambino strain is a little slower to bloom. There is also a strain called simply, Hanging Mixed, with pink or red flowered plants that sprawl or hang from pot or window box. I would personally go with a container grown plant at this time of year because I think it would be tough for a new plant from seed to make it through the first summer. My book also states that Florists' carnations are grown commercially in green houses, outdoors in gardens in mild-winter areas. Greenhouse grown plants reach 4 ft, have fragrant flowers 3 in. wide in many colors. For large flowers, leave only terminal bloom on each stem, pinching out all other buds down to the fifth joint, below which new flowering stems will develop. Stake to prevent sprawling. Start with strong cuttings taken from the most vigorous plants of selected named varieties. I hope this is of some help to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) From: LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. Thanks From geek@inficad.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 17:17:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 17:17:12 -0700 (MST) From: geek@inficad.com geek@inficad.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tip Top refered me to you regarding the provision of a list of plants that are poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- tion, it would also be helpful to know symptoms I should note in a dog that has eatten a poisonous plant. Thanks. From Gregcm2@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:11:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:11:02 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1.Can I do anything now to prevent aphids on my tomatoes and herbs? From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:54:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:54:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening Classes As luck has it, there is JUST such a class for you this Saturday (2/12) at the Maricopa County Extension Office. You can check this and other possibilities on our Gardening Calendar at http://video2.agforbes.arizona.edu:8080/maricopa/ If this doesn't work for your schedule and you still want some information, write me back! Linda Guy Master Gardener LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET wrote: > arid_gardener > Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) > We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:19:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:19:38 -0700 (MST) From: royce.hicks@luke.af.mil royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do I need to fertilize the soil for planting Sunflowers in the Glendale area. Out here we have soil filled with rocks and sand? In other words what soil preperations are required for planting Sunflowers in the West Valley soil? Hicks From aanran@cybertrails.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:25:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:25:18 -0700 (MST) From: aanran@cybertrails.com aanran@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. Thanks for an answer!! From LChristini@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:23:24 EST Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:23:24 EST From: LChristini@aol.com LChristini@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost after planting a young ficus natida tree, a frost hit it, browning most of the top of the tree. New growth is coming in around the bottom of the tree, but not too much of the top. My concern is, should I cut back the top, or wait to see if will come around. I really don't want to cut the top back, afraid it will distort the shape of the tree. Any advice? From DaedalusCz@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:41:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:41:44 -0700 (MST) From: DaedalusCz@aol.com DaedalusCz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to the area. We bought a house with an established garden. There are 4 Acacia Trees on the property. Each seem to be of a different species.All but one of them has retained their leaves thru the winter months.I have looked through a lists of Acacias and have only found one(The Sweet Acacia) that is listed as deciduos. I am certain that it is not that species. I broke off a twig and found it was still supple, but I am not sure that is not dying. The leaves began to fall after I changed the seasonal watering system. The other trees only partially shed. The tree is 20 feet tall and established for about 4 years.It had long 10" leaves, similar to my weeping acacia (the only one I could identify. Questions: Is this nothing to worry about, should I do something to insure its reblooming, or is it too late? Is there a way I can identify the species of my 4 trees, as each has a different shape and flower? From renior307@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:18:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:18:34 -0700 (MST) From: renior307@aol.com renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior From barn@primenet.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:07:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:07:18 -0700 (MST) From: barn@primenet.com barn@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is it time to fertilize roses and what kind of fertilizer should I use? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:25:09 -0700 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:25:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poisonous Plants for Dogs I found a web site that you might find quite useful! As a pet owner, I did. The address is: http://www.healthypet.com/Library/prevent-12.html The page above has a comprehensive list of plants, household products, etc, along with codes that show what type of toxin they are (gastrointestinal, neurological, etc.) I think if you check out their entire site, they probably have lists of symptoms too or at least a link to where you can get that info. The address for the site in general is www.healthypet.com Sue Bass Master Gardener geek@inficad.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Tip Top refered me to you regarding the > provision of a list of plants that are > poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- > tion, it would also be helpful to know > symptoms I should note in a dog that has > eatten a poisonous plant. > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From paradiseoasis@uswest.net Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:40:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:40:56 -0700 (MST) From: paradiseoasis@uswest.net paradiseoasis@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant sunflower seed? Also I have a chilean mesquite tree that is about 5 years old and it hasn't grown at all since it's been planted. Is there something wrong with the tree or is it still adapting to it's environment? It loses its leaves in the winter and I usually cut back the frost damaged twiggs in the spring. It's planted on the SW side of the house and get pretty much full sun. And get regular deep watering. From jljake1957@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (MST) From: jljake1957@aol.com jljake1957@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to grow a lilac here. I had one growing well at my previous address in a NE exposure. However, it always seemed to be reaching for the sun. I've tried two since moving, I have all exposures available in which to plant it. The plants don't seem happy no matter what I do - too much sun here, too little there. Any suggestions? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:12 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvilleas Hi again FPO, There is no pub dedicated to bougainvillea. These are usually shaped up in early spring after any chance of cold damage has passed. This can be relative, depending on where it is planted because a north exposure will stay colder longer. It is evergreen during a mild winter but can die back to ground level when temps drop below mid-twenties.. If the plant was well established, it will come back from its base when the weather warms. During the vigorous growing season in summer, prune back the fast-growing long shoots to encourage development of the colorful bracts. Another sure way to maximize color is to stress the plant for water a bit. Ample H2O will lead to a lush but green specimen. Linda Guy Master Gardener Frank Osendorf wrote: > Thanks, Linda. I have ordered relevant publications. One more question. > Is there a publication that details pruning instructions for boganvellia > (sp) bushes? > > Thanks for your help. > > F. P. O. > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's > > 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with > > our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public > > library. If you want to order it, instructions are at > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > > I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a > > notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. > > http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am interested in a fertilization chart > > > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > > > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:40:04 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:40:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Watering Rosemary Two possibilities come immediately to mind. First, although rosemary is an excellent plant for our locale, my personal experience with Mediterranean herbs is that they have the best chance of thriving their first summer if planted very early spring, preferably autumn, to get well-established before that first blast of desert heat. If you planted late spring or early summer, [unless it was placed in filtered shade which it will not prefer long term] you increase your chance of losing the plant. However, your note suggests you drowned your plant. These plants can tolerate just about any kind of neglect [once established] except poor drainage. If it was put in largely clay soil without amendments to improve movement of water, your drip schedule was far more than the plant required. [When I first established my herb beds, which contain many of the Mediterranean herbs, I not only added lots of compost but a truck load of 1/8-minus gravel to improve the drainage in this particular area for this very reason.] In this bed, the rosemary [4' around in less than two years] gets a hose thrown on it perhaps once monthly in the summer to saturate the soil. I don't usually water it in winter, but have thrown the hose on recently since we've had so little rain. Similarly, another 4' rosemary in my xeriscape landscape gets a couple gallons monthly on a drip line in winter. In the summer, its likely twice monthly. I believe this is reasonable because all the other plants on the line were selected for their low-water usage. You need to let the soil dry out. And you might also consider capping one of the drips at this site. If your rosemary is on a line that must run long and/or often for other plants, I would keep it on your drip system the first summer, get it established and cap the drip entirely in year 2 and beyond. They simply get too woody [or die] if they get overwatered or overfertilized. Toss on the occasional hose in drought conditions. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener aanran@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? > A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. > Thanks for an answer!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:00:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:00:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Papyrus Hi Renior, Papyrus is a bog plant; it is also a tropical which means it has higher need for humidity. They flourish with an inch or two of water above their roots, planted in containers of soil, and this is easily achieved in a pond setting. But they are also, believe it or not, submerged in a similar fashion and kept on patio or indoors. You 'damp' area may be inadequate to the task; also there is less humidity than when in a pond or larger container of water. These are full sun to partial shade plants. Mine have always leaned toward the sun when blocked by the shade of a nearby tree, which I ultimately removed for the health of my pond. Unless your area is filtered shade, it sounds like you might need to find a better location. I'm not saying you cannot plant it in a non-water garden setting, just that it could be more fussy. I would suggest buying a wide plastic container, like those used for water lilies, and plant it in ground in the container. You can keep it a lot more moist that way, and not overwater adjacent plants. And more importantly you will contain what can become a weed! We often recommend a container strategy for other invasive plants like herbs, which need good drainage produced by cutting out the bottom first. But in the case of a marsh plant, I'd suggest leaving the container bottom in tact. I have only just completed my annual pond cleaning. Last spring, I put one papyrus division of about 4 to 5 inch diameter in a three foot wide pot and in one year it is already totally overgrown. This is quite typical. To divide it, I remove the root ball and saw through it, giving away the divisions. [I have some if you are interested in more!] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener renior307@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dspjnp@hotmail.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:08:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:08:27 -0700 (MST) From: dspjnp@hotmail.com dspjnp@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Scottsdale, AZ 85254, what region or zone is this considered to be? From amussi@az.freei.net Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:57:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:57:10 -0700 (MST) From: amussi@az.freei.net amussi@az.freei.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring I planted a bouganvillea plant. Almost a year later it is looking pretty dismal. No flowers and sparse leaves. The branches also look white. My question is should I give this plant some more time (and if so, what can I do to make it grow) or should I pull it out and try with another one? From sparrow424@hotmail.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:33:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:33:24 -0700 (MST) From: sparrow424@hotmail.com sparrow424@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature violet hardenbergia. It is currently blooming but there are many dry leaves and "dead" vines. It seems that the new and healthy vines wrap around the others and kill them off. While I have tried to cut off the dead vines it is nearly impossible since the healthy shoots are so intertwined. Should this plant have been pruned prior to the blooming? How far back should it be cut? Please help me with the care of this beautiful plant. Thanks. From garlina@frontiernet.net Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:23:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:23:54 -0700 (MST) From: garlina@frontiernet.net garlina@frontiernet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Two questions, what do the black spots on the leaves of our ten year old sweet orange tree (Trevita) mean? And, how can my friend keep javelinas from eating his cacti, specifically opuntia? Thank You for your help, Ernie From nsf28@hotmail.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:10 -0700 (MST) From: nsf28@hotmail.com nsf28@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when are the proper months to fertilize citrus trees and how much, and how long do orange, grapefruit trees normally produce, ours were planted in about 1972 and they are not bearing well. thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:00:26 GMT Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:00:26 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: plants poisonous to dogs Another source of information about plants poisonous to dogs: http://ww.dogs.net/dogs/plants Information posted on the web may not be valid, but will give you a starting place to research specific plants. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From phxsal@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:55:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:55:56 -0700 (MST) From: phxsal@aol.com phxsal@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What months do you fertilize your citrus? Thank you From www.wsmlharden@juno.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:34:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:34:00 -0700 (MST) From: www.wsmlharden@juno.com www.wsmlharden@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will the Marguerite Daisy (C.Trutescens) live through the Phoenix summers planted in full sun? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:07:50 EST Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:07:50 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus Citrus should be fertilized three times a year in Feb or March, April or May, and July or August. Good luck. Rod From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:12:02 -0700 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:12:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Held Mail sent to Arid_gardener Nancy: No need to fear, please allow me to explain. I am one of the list serve managers. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all incoming requests so that we can weed out "SPAM" - unwanted e-mail which can include such undesirable stuff as pornography - apparently it has happened in the past. So a group of us check all incoming requests that come in from non subscribers to the site (its ok that you are a non subscriber, these are just the requests that have to be monitored first). Once we see that what we have received is a legitimate gardening question, we give our approval and it goes on to be posted to all members of the list. Sometimes it takes a few days to get answered because its not unheard of for us to receive 25 requests for information a day. As soon as someone (these are all volunteers) has the chance to get to your question, it will be answered. I hope this clears up any misunderstanding. If you are interested in subscribing to our site (no charge), please feel free to check out the following page which gives all the particulars. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm Nancy Fritzler wrote: > i don't understand!!!!! all i wanted to know is when to fertilize my citrus > trees and how long (years) they bear fruit!!!! i don't want to put up a > poster, nor do i need it approved > > >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To: nsf28@hotmail.com > >Subject: Mail sent to Arid_gardener > >Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:12 -0700 (MST) > > > >Your mail to 'Arid_gardener' with the subject: > > > > Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >Is being held until the list moderator can review it for approval. > > > >The reason it is being held: > > > > Only approved posters may post without moderator approval. > > > >Either the message will get posted to the list, or you will receive > >notification of the moderator's decision. > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:07 EST Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus nitida dmaged by frost The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender and especially during its first winter. Wait until you can determine how much frost damage has occured before pruning, probably by the first of April. If we have more freezing temperatures forecast you would be wise to cover the tree to prevent further damage. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Roses If you live in the low desert this is the time of year to start fertilizing your roses and again after each bloom cycle which amounts to approximately every 6 weeks. During the hot months of June, July, and August only apply one half the usual amount of fertilizer. Do not fertilizer in the months of Dec. and January. Nearly all nurseries stock a fertilizer specially for roses; be sure to follow the label instructions. To learn more about rose care why not join one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley. Let me know and I'll send a list. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:08 EST Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:08 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Acacia Identification If you have not already checked in the Sunset Western Garden Book, it is a good source for Acacia identification; it lists 29 varieties. If this does not help you I would suggest spending some time at the Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale where you will find many varieties of Acacia growing. Their volunteers are well trained and should be able to help you. The leaf drop on the one tree if it is not an A.farnesiana or A. smallii could be caused by the cutback in irrigation last fall if you reduced the amount of water too much too early and especially if you had not been deep watering. U. of A. recommends increasing the irrigation interval without reducing the amount of water applied as the weather cools in the fall and winter. Last fall the temps remained abnormally high way into November. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not blooming Bougainvillea will look it's best when planted in full sun, and once it has become established (about one season) requires little water or fertilizer. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:49:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:49:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Chopped Pecan Leaves in Compost Apologies for the delayed response, but I can find no specific admonitions against using pecan leaves in compost. This does not mean that you aren't correct! The only plant materials I found specific reference to the production of toxins that inhibit plant growth are eucalyptus, oleander, and tamarisk. This was in a Tucson/Pima County publication, so one would expect that the authors would have included pecan leaves if they were an issue. You could do some investigating on your own through our composting linked sites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost You are right to chop your leaves before adding them to the compost. It expedites the process. Sorry I wasn't more help. Linda Guy Master Gardener robert_michael@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have been making compost with chopped pecan tree leaves. I heard somewhere that the addition of this compost to soil will inhibit the growth of plants like tomato and lettuce. Is this true? > > Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:00:07 -0700 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:00:07 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Care for Bermuda Lawn The time to start reconditioning your bermuda lawn would be in May; this and other events on the gardening calendar are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm In the meantime, you could browse some of our good turf publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn These can't be viewed online, but are available in the reference section of your library. If you want to order any, go to the top of the referenced listing of publications. They are $1 each (free if you can swing by the office to pick them up). MC18 Establishment & Care of Lawn & Turfgrass in Southern Arizona, MC35 Irrigation Water Needs for Bermudagrass Lawns and 8752 Hybrid Bermudagrass Lawns may be of particular interest to you. Another way to go is to read the lawn section of the Master Gardener Manual which is online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/maintenance.html There is a discussion of thatching and renovation. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pierce7@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > my lawn is bermuda grass. I want a nice thick lawn this summer. What can I do? > > My ground is very hard in place and grass will not grow. > > should I get top soil, thatch or eriade my lawn > please help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:14:10 -0700 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:14:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] New Vegetable Garden Here are a few places you can tour on the website to get you and your vegetable garden started. Maricopa County has a number of home horticulture publications; you can start at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm >where you can specifically look online at AZ1100 Flower and Bedding >Plant Guide for the Low Desert and AZ1005 Vegetable Planting Calendar >for Maricopa County, amongst many other specialty publications. If a >publication of interest is not online, this page contains instructions >for ordering a copy. Your local library should also have a full set in its reference section. > >We also have a book for newcomers called Desert >Gardening for Beginners that can be ordered at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm Many local nurseries also carry it. > >Finally, every month we keep you posted on gardening activities >suitable for our climate and conditions. It too is available on our >website at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm This is probably more than enough to launch your effort. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pfhagen1@uswest.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We are starting a new garden. Is there a list of vegetable varieties available that do well in Arizona? We are located in New River, AZ, elevation approximately 1,350'. We'd like to be able to print out some information or have it sent to us. Happy gardening, may God bless us with good weather! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dmkerr@dancris.com Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:11:15 -0700 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:11:15 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Today, 2/13/00, I ate my first tomato. I planted Carmello seeds = (Shepherds seeds) in September. Transplanted to the garden in October = after the highs were consistently less than 100. I had to use shade = cloth because it was so hot and dry. I planted them in my garden on the = South side of the house, partly under the eave. By the end of November, = the plants were 3 feet high, growing out of the top of their cages. For = frost protection, I put a bunch of one gallon plastic milk cartons = filled with water around the plants. Where I live, the lows are ten to = eleven degreees less than the official Sky Harbor temperatures. I get = up at 5am and listen to the radio. If there is a chance of frost, I put = sheets over the tomato cages. I have noticed that the temperature = falls precipitously in the hour or two before dawn. It can be 40 in = Scottsdale (50 at Sky Habor) at 5am and then 29 at 7 am. =20 The plants grew very slowly in December and early January when the days = are short. With longer days, the plants are now 5 feet tall, filling = the cages and full of 2-3" fruits. Last year, I had tomatos from = February to May, but the leaves curled, suggesting curly top virus. = Also, I grew Celebrity, a determinate variety, which may explain why my = plants stopped producing. My question: When exactly do I need to put = on shade cloth to prevent curly top virus transmitted by leafhoppers? = Is there specific information available about temperatures and humidity = effects on the leafhoppers? The way our climate changes from year to = year probably means that I need to know temperatures and rainfall rather = than hard and fast dates. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Today, 2/13/00, I ate my first tomato. = I planted=20 Carmello seeds (Shepherds seeds) in September. = Transplanted to=20 the garden in October after the highs were consistently less than = 100. I=20 had to use shade cloth because it was so hot and dry. I planted = them in my=20 garden on the South side of the house, partly under the eave. By = the end=20 of November, the plants were 3 feet high, growing out of the top of = their=20 cages. For frost protection, I put a bunch of one gallon plastic = milk=20 cartons filled with water around the plants. Where I live, the = lows are=20 ten to eleven degreees less than the official Sky Harbor = temperatures. I=20 get up at 5am and listen to the radio. If there is a chance of = frost, I=20 put sheets over the tomato cages. I have noticed that the=20 temperature falls precipitously in the hour or two before dawn. It = can be=20 40 in Scottsdale (50 at Sky Habor) at 5am and then 29 at 7 am. =20

The plants grew very slowly in December = and early January when the days are short. With longer = days, the=20 plants are now 5 feet tall, filling the cages and full of 2-3"=20 fruits. Last year, I had tomatos from February to May, but = the=20 leaves curled, suggesting curly top virus. Also, I grew Celebrity, = a=20 determinate variety, which may explain why my plants stopped = producing. My=20 question: When exactly do I need to put on shade cloth to prevent = curly=20 top virus transmitted by leafhoppers? Is there specific = information=20 available about temperatures and humidity effects on the = leafhoppers? The=20 way our climate changes from year to year probably means that I need to = know=20 temperatures and rainfall rather than hard and fast=20 dates.

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840-- From suzmike@openlines.com Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:41:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:41:29 -0700 (MST) From: suzmike@openlines.com suzmike@openlines.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an overgrown Lemmon tree. Where can I find information on pruning this tree back in overall size? From camdonn@aol.com Sun, 13 Feb 2000 21:11:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 21:11:50 -0700 (MST) From: camdonn@aol.com camdonn@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are roses a commercially grown crop in AZ? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:30:24 EST Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:30:24 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Roses A little known fact is that over 40% of the rose bushes sold in the U.S. are grown in the west valley, a little over 600 acres. However I don't believe that there are any blooms grown comercially here in the Phoenix area. Rod From cbailey62@juno.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:40:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:40:47 -0700 (MST) From: cbailey62@juno.com cbailey62@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? Thanks for your assistance. Carol From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:27:24 -0700 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:27:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Butterflies To name a few plants that attract butterflies: Lantana, verbena, coreopsis, cosmos, nicotiana, lobelia, marigolds, penstemon, yarrow. These will all provide nectar for the adult. Butterfly larvae need food too. Some plants that fit this category are: Desert milkweed, hollyhock, snapdragon, aster, fennel, geum, penstemon, strawberry. In the shrubs department for larval food, hibiscus, cassia, mallow. I found a few web sites that may be inspirational to you: http://www.butterflywings.com/garden.html This next site has nice photos of annuals and perennials attractive to butterflies: http://campbells-nrsy.com/Handouts/butterfly_gardening.htm The following page also has butterfly gardening information, with a little humor added :>) http://www.htcomp.net/weis/butterflygarden.HTML Hope this helps with some inspiration! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer cbailey62@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? > > Thanks for your assistance. > > Carol > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:28:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:28:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Stopping Podding on Carob Trees I regret that I don't have knowledge of a way to treat your carob tree to keep it from forming pods. In our publication Q375 Chemical Removal of Flowers (Olive & Mulberry), the chemical spray that works on olives is NAA (napthaleneacetic acid). It is not effective on all things, but you might ask your favorite nursery if they have experience with this or another compound for carobs. Please be careful with NAA, it can cause a rsh on people susceptible to allergies. Linda Guy Master Gardener papagiorgio@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there any way to stop a carob tree from getting pods? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:56:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:56:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Zoysia Grass Mrs. Beasley, Referring to our publication MC 18 Lawn & Turf Grass in Southern Arizona, I found that zoysia is moderately well adapted to our area. It is medium textured, stoloniferous, and dense; likes full sun and tolerates partial shade. It is somewhat more cold tolerant than the bermudas, so there's a slightly longer growing season . That is helpful, since overseeding in winter with rye is not recommended for this grass. It prefers growing in loam soils so it can get to be yellowy-green in our soils if stressed in hot weather. It grows slower than other options which reduces mowing and dethatching somewhat; but it also means it could require a couple years to form a good carpet for you. Insect and disease susceptibility is somewhat greater than bermuda, and recovery from any setback will be noticeably slower.If you choose this turf, be sure to select locally grown stolons, plugs or sod which will be better acclimated than those from out-of-state. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Patti Baciewicz " wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear Patti; > > When your orange trees begin bearing sour fruit on trees that were usually > sweet, could that be the result of cross-pollination from nearby lemon or > grapefruit trees? > > Also, would Zoysia grass work well here in the valley? According to the ads, > it thrives best in heat but there are no temperatures available as to > limitations. This grass was quite popular in Maryland, turning brown in late > Fall but greening nicely in the Spring of the year. It required little > maintenance, little water and could be mowed less. The only problem created > was it grew in thick masses and would smother itself out requiring plugging > sections out now and again. Beautiful grass. > > Thanks for any advice you may provide. > > Mrs. Beasley kbea913903@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:59:05 -0700 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:59:05 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Locating Cara Cara Navels I found a listing at Greenfield Citrus Nursery at http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Hope you can find them. They are supposed to be a beautifully red-pigmented orange, similar to red grapefruit in color. Linda Guy Master Gardener charmain@ctaz.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Lake Havasu City and I am very interested in a fairly new variety of Navel Orange called Cara Cara for my home garden. Where may these trees be purchased? They are considered excellent for growing in our low desert but I cannot find them. Please help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 18:04:32 -0700 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 18:04:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Butterfly Garden In addition to the excellent resources you already received, you can consult our own publication AZ 1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers One of the columns shows those flowers attractive to butterflies and you'll also have information on when to plant in our climate. Linda Guy Master Gardener cbailey62@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? > > Thanks for your assistance. > > Carol > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Jenfloy@aol.com Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:04:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:04:21 -0700 (MST) From: Jenfloy@aol.com Jenfloy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last fall I was given a young ash tree from a friend of mine. It was a volunteer and she was not sure which kind it was. I'm thinking it is an Arizona Ash, based on the descriptions in my "Western Garden" book. The tree was planted in the fall, didn't grow much but made it through the winter as new leaves are starting to sprout all over. It's about 6 feet high. My question is related to it's prunning. It's tallest branch is not the straight middle trunk-looking branch. Should I prune back the tall straight-up side branch in the spring or just leave it alone and see what happens? The whole tree really doesn't look all that funky. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks eric From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:16:14 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:16:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lime Care I'm no citrus expert, but I do have a lime tree whose performance was similar to yours this year. Limes are not the easiest citrus to grow in our area. They are extremely frost sensitive and need to be planted in a warm area, out of the winds. You don't say which variety you have, but I will share that the Bearss seedless (Persian) is the recommended type for our locale. Others sold include Mexican (Key) and Rangpur. All are fairly tart and range in green to yellow in color. I have slightly conflicting information on the 'ripening season' (again remember these are going to be tart): our publication AZ 1001 on Low Desert Citrus http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf says it is July through January for Bearss. Mexican limes ripen in September but you can experience some small percentage of fruit remaining throughout the year. My lime performed exactly as did yours. Most fruit fell in December [I have a Bearss] and the tree has been setting new fruit for at least the last month. The fruit was yellow this year (lack of cold can impact the color) and is usually always tending to tart/sour. Your irrigation schedule is not quite what citrus prefer. Deep infrequent watering (every 10 - 14 days in summer; every 21 to 30 days in winter) is preferred. Citrus does very well in flood irrigated communities, e.g. You should also be starting the first tranche of your fertilization for this year soon. If you have more questions on care, check out our citrus publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Most are not online, but can be viewed in the reference section of your public library. If you want to order a copy, instructions are at the top of this web page. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener ronolive@usa.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a lime tree that was not taken care of > for years until we bought the house. I have > taken care of it since then and it bore limes > for the first time this year. A month ago they > all turned yellow and fell off the tree with > little to no green color. Now there is a new > small crop on the tree. I am afraid they will > turn yellow and prematurely fall off again. > I was watering every 7 days. Now I am watering > every 14 days for thirty minutes. It takes about 4 hours for the > water to fully absorb into the ground from the > birm around the tree. What am I doing wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:30:56 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:30:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Oleander This may come to late to be of help to you this year. Referring to our publication 8213 on Disease of Oleander, they are extremely frost sensitive. So, unless your oleanders are in the warmest part of the valley, not in a cooler (e.g. northern) exposures and in full sun, there is some risk to pruning this early in the year. Even if there already was frost damage, the plant is better served leaving it there to protect the growth beneath until risk of frost is past. This publication recommends pruning immediately following their peak spring flowering period. I'm not sure if this is indeed, the end of April. Generally, we don't recommend removing more than 1/3 of a plant's canopy, but I can't definitively say that cutting back to 5-7" is a poor practice for oleander which does well in our area. You don't mention if it is a dwarf or one of the vatrieties that can reach into the powerlines. You can view this publication and other Home Horticulture publications in the reference section of your public library. If you want to order this one, instructions are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener Sitting4@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Our Homeowners Association is planning a MAJOR pruning of the oleanders. This means the plants will be cut down to just 5-7 inch stems. They say this will insure blooms for the summer. I would like to know if this is a good thing, and when is the best time to prune oleanders? > Also, They did this last year at the end of April and I was very upset. I plan to be outside the day this happens to tell them NOT to cut the plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:38:38 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:38:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pineapple Guava (Feijoa sellowiana) There's a nice summary in the Sunset Western Garden Guide, p. 292, where it is listed as growing in our zone. However, the book does suggest that the fruit have better flavor in the cooler coastal climates, as opposed to the heat of low deserts. Being on a wall and facing west, you are exposing your plant to one of the hottest scenarios of your yard. This is a great plant to train as espalier, screen or hedge, or even as a small tree that looks like olive. It can take almost any amount of pruning, which is best done in late spring since this is a frost sensitive plant. Linda Guy Master Gardener www.ontsask@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in Sun Lakes, how would pineapple guavas do in full sun here? They would be near the east wall so they would get the west sun. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:00:45 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:00:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Using Potassium Softened Water First, let me acknowledge that I am no chemist! But, I thought I learned that we have come to use the generic term 'salt' for sodium, when, indeed, there are many kinds of salt and potassium is one of them. [Morton's makes 'Lite Salt' for the kitchen that is basically potassium chloride.] Unfortunately, our publication 8736 Softened and Recycled Water: Safe for Plants? just deals with sodium, and it suggests that water softened in this manner never be used in the landscape. Some salt tolerant plants are bermuda, oleander, bougainvillea, but this applies to water from pool backwashing, not water softeners. We have adequate levels of potassium in our soils already, and do not usually recommend its application unless the soil is sandy. So to add more potassium is probably not beneficial. Remember that the ill effects will probably be cumulative. I guess the best suggestion I could make at this time would be to contact some of the soil testing firms to see if they can give you a better answer than I can. We have such a listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Good luck! Write back and let me know what you discover. Linda Guy Master Gardener eye6624@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We are soon getting soft water installed and will be using potasium and not salt as the exchange ion. > This house does not have a soft water loop, so If the plants are watered outside with soft water as described will it harm them, help them, or what? It will be expensive to route a hard water line so I need to know. Thank you!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:05:01 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:05:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Larvae in Citrus Since your question has been unanswered for a spell, and because I can't find an answer in any of my reference material, I'd like to suggest that you bring some examples down to the County Extension Office. Local staff and Master Gardener volunteers meet weekly to examine, identify/diagnose and offer solutions. We are located at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. There is a box on the Master Gardener desk that takes the specimens. Linda Guy Master Gardener brederick@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an Arizona Sweet Orange tree which has a new problem. I have found 3 or 4 oranges with a hole near the bottom. The hole ranges from about the size of a "BB" to .4" diameter. Around the hole are small larvae which look like the things you find in wheat or cereal when it gets wormey. > Do you have any idea what these are? I have never had them before. Is there anything I should do other than pick the fruit and trash-can it? > Thanks for the help. > Bob Rederick > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:16:54 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:16:54 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Low Water Use Trees Most native specimens will benefit from regular watering during the first summer season to become established, after which time minimal irrigation is required. However, the speed with which a desert tree grows is often related to the amount of water received. What I am suggesting is that if you want faster growth, more water will speed the process. Sometimes, though, the trees are grown too fast, and the trunk cannot support the weight of the more lush canopy. You see this often after monsoon storms have blown away well watered specimens in landscapes whereas specimens in uncultivated areas are more apt to withstand the wind. In addition to low water use, you will need to consider the size of the space, if you can handle the leaf and pod litter that many leguminous trees produce (i.e. is a pool or water feature nearby), do you have allergies, are there power lines nearby, do you want color, when, do you care if deciduous or evergreen, etc. We have a publication MC 33 on Drought Resistant Trees for Maricopa County, but there are also other tree pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals You can see these at your public library's reference section or order them [see the top of this web page for instructions]. There is another good booklet co-published by City of Phoenix, SRP, and Desert Botanical Garden, among others, called Desert Shade Trees. You might call the DBG to see if its still published, then stop by to look at some of the candidates that you are considering for your yard. Linda Guy Master Gardener ebdive2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, Can you please name 3(if there are that many) desert trees which grow rapidly and can do so with no supplemental watering; if it needs a week or so of h2o to begin, that is possible. Thank you for any help you can provide. Elizabeth > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:23:32 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:23:32 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Chicken soup for the gardener's soul --=====================_15256992==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" There is an add in the newspaper soliciting tales by gardeners for Chicken Soup for the Soul. It says gardeners can share stories with the world. The creators of the Chicken Soup for the Soul Series will pay $300 for each tale selected for their upcoming book "Chicken Soup for the Gardener's Soul". According to the book's editors, the best entries are usually personal, tender, or funny, and no more than 1,200 words long. It says trade your shovel for a computer keyboard and pen your tale. The deadline for entries is March 1. To submit a story or receive more information, write to Chicken Soup, 51 N. Cromwell St., Fairfiled, IA 52556 or send a FAX to 312-577-0668. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15256992==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" There is an add in the newspaper soliciting tales by gardeners for Chicken Soup for the Soul.

It says gardeners can share stories with the world. The creators of the Chicken Soup for the Soul Series will pay $300 for each tale selected for their upcoming book "Chicken Soup for the Gardener's Soul".

According to the book's editors, the best entries are usually personal, tender, or funny, and no more than 1,200 words long. It says trade your shovel for a computer keyboard and pen your tale.

The deadline for entries is March 1. To submit a story or receive more information, write to Chicken Soup, 51 N. Cromwell St., Fairfiled, IA 52556 or send a FAX to 312-577-0668.

Carol Noyes

Administrative Secretary

Maricopa County

Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086 Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15256992==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:38:15 -0700 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:38:15 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page You may find the following page in the Master Gardener manual useful. It has very good information on when, why, and how to prune your trees. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/reasons.html#training Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer Jenfloy@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Last fall I was given a young ash tree from a friend of mine. It was a volunteer and she was not sure which kind it was. I'm thinking it is an Arizona Ash, based on the descriptions in my "Western Garden" book. The tree was planted in the fall, didn't grow much but made it through the winter as new leaves are starting to sprout all over. It's about 6 feet high. My question is related to it's prunning. It's tallest branch is not the straight middle trunk-looking branch. Should I prune back the tall straight-up side branch in the spring or just leave it alone and see what happens? The whole tree really doesn't look all that funky. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Thanks > eric > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From R2BESHON@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:32:29 -0700 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:32:29 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] mesquite trees i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over from the winds of June and July. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. what is your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the disease never completely leaves. any ideas? From sff2000@worldnet.att.net Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:59:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:59:38 -0700 (MST) From: sff2000@worldnet.att.net sff2000@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There was an ad in the Arizona Republic for Meyer Zoysia grass in plugs. How suitable is this as a grass. I have medium shade to full sun. What ground cover/grass alternatives are available for the low desert. I am in the 40th street and Chandler blvd area of Phoenix. From li_bedell@uswest.net Wed, 16 Feb 2000 06:36:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 06:36:54 -0700 (MST) From: li_bedell@uswest.net li_bedell@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do my AZ Sweet oranges, when you peel the skin off is dry on the top section of the fruit, the rest is still juicy? From elaine.ball@americanfence.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:20:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:20:32 -0700 (MST) From: elaine.ball@americanfence.com elaine.ball@americanfence.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 lady banks roses and this is their third season and I get very few flowers. One is on a north facing wall and the other on a west facing wall. Should I prune them? Should I use a special fertalizer ( use fish Emulsion on my regular roses) From neal5@home.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:30:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:30:19 -0700 (MST) From: neal5@home.com neal5@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a lemon tree about 15 plus years old that since we have been in this house (3 hrs.) has not produced lemons. It will drop alot of it's leaves starting in Dec.-Jan. Now it is starting to show blossoms which it will have a lot of, but produce only 5 lemons (last year) none of which matured. It is on a drip system for water and is on the eastside of our house with ample sunlight. It was fertilized last year, but I have not fertilized it this year yet. Any suggestions on how to have this lemon tree produce lemons. Thanks! From DeVerasLT@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:41:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:41:16 -0700 (MST) From: DeVerasLT@aol.com DeVerasLT@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two colonies of potted aloe vera on my back patio, where they've lived over 7 years in the shade. They need to be repotted. Can I move them into direct sunlight and plant them in Arizona soil? They originated in California - hard soil, full sun, but nothing like here! Help! Thanks! From sdrt@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:42:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:42:11 -0700 (MST) From: sdrt@aol.com sdrt@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Being from the Midwest, I am not sure what to do about my roses here in the desert. Do I prune them back to just canes each year? If so when? I did not prune them last year and they turned out AOK. Thanks. From neal5@home.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:40:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:40:42 -0700 (MST) From: neal5@home.com neal5@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On the southeast side and southeast back corner of my home are six gardenia bushes probably 10-15 yrs. old. Since we have been in our home (3 yrs) these bushes never have looked completely green and healthy. They have produced flowers for about a three week period in May, but then go back to looking not very good. The leaves have brown tips and spots and never get a nice green. I'm thinking of taking them out and replacing them with something else with flowers, but don't know what. Any suggestions on improving the gardenia bushes or what would be a good replacement for them. Thanks for your help! Karen From rssmryfll@uswest.net Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:21:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:21:13 -0700 (MST) From: rssmryfll@uswest.net rssmryfll@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like a written comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of Perennial Ryegrass and Annual Ryegrass to be grown in the Sun City, AZ area. I would like the report to include costs, watering, maintenance, disease resistence, looks and wear factors if possible. Thank you in advance for any help that you can give me. R. Foell From zbinternational@hotmail.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:46:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:46:49 -0700 (MST) From: zbinternational@hotmail.com zbinternational@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can anyone tell me if arizona black walnut trees will grow in the Phoenix area? Typically I think they are found at higher and cooler elevations. Thank You From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:38:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:38:14 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Gardenia Question from Home-Hort WWW page] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <38AB3413.E3BFE164@uswest.net> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:34:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: neal5@home.com Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200002161740.KAA17310@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen: Perhaps some of my colleagues will be able to offer you some good alternatives to the gardenia. I can offer you some of the information I found out about growing them here in the low desert . I did a little research in my copy of "An Illustrated Guide to Landscape Shrubs of Southern Arizona" by Ronald K. Dinchak. Gardenias "can" be grown here, but they need a little extra care and consideration to thrive in our climate and soil. I'd say the first obstacle for the gardenia in your yard is their location. In my research I found that the planting site and preparation are critical to their success. They need exposures that receive filtered light to some sun, but always afternoon shade. The soil in which they grow needs to have a mixture of highly organic matter added, such as peat moss, that will drain quickly yet retain water and is slightly acid in pH. The roots always need to be mulched. Gardenias must be fed monthly with a fertilizer prepared specifically for their needs. Since they are susceptible to iron chlorosis they need an additional feeding of a chelated iron. Iron chlorosis is a common problem due to our alkaline soils here in the desert. It is likely the reason your leaves are not very green. There are many flowering shrubs that would be better suited to that location in your landscape. If you decide to replace them with something else I would suggest visiting a good nursery and speaking with them about the exposure and what you are looking for in a plant. I hope this helps somewhat. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer neal5@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > On the southeast side and southeast back corner of my home are six gardenia bushes probably 10-15 yrs. old. Since we have been in our home (3 yrs) these bushes never have looked completely green and healthy. They have produced flowers for about a three week period in May, but then go back to looking not very good. The leaves have brown tips and spots and never get a nice green. I'm thinking of taking them out and replacing them with something else with flowers, but don't know what. Any suggestions on improving the gardenia bushes or what would be a good replacement for them. Thanks for your help! Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552-- From R2BESHON@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:26:53 EST Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:26:53 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fwd: mesquite trees --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please help me. --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (rly-yb04.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.4]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:57 -0500 Received: from mail.sisna.com (mail.sisna.com [209.210.176.29]) by rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:54 -0500 Received: from lucy [209.210.168.40] by mail.sisna.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-6.00) id AFA9BA360064; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:20:09 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000215233751.009b61f0@mail.sisna.com> X-Sender: LBradley@mail.sisna.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:38:23 -0700 To: R2BESHON@aol.com From: Lucy Bradley Subject: Re: mesquite trees In-Reply-To: <17.1d2be6f.25daebd5@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lucy Bradley is on Sabbatical. Your message has been forwarded to the arid_gardener list. At 12:50 PM 02/15/2000 -0500, you wrote: >i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were >planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over >from the >winds of june and july. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. >what is >your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. > >also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest >treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in >clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the >disease >never completely leaves. any ideas? Lucy Bradley will be on Sabbatical until January 1, 2001. Please check with one of the folks below for assistance: * Gardening questions -- * Master Gardener Program in Maricopa County -- Cathy Rymer * The new Statewide Coordinator for Arizona Master Gardener Programing Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> * The new Webmaster for the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) Lenny Librizzi * The new Webmaster for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Kim McReynolds * The new List Manager for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Lee Clark * The new Webmaster and List Manager for the Arizona Community Tree Council Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> If you have other questions please contact Carol Noyes and she will direct you. --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary-- From R2BESHON@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:29:19 EST Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:29:19 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fwd: mesquite trees --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please help me. --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (rly-yb04.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.4]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:57 -0500 Received: from mail.sisna.com (mail.sisna.com [209.210.176.29]) by rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:54 -0500 Received: from lucy [209.210.168.40] by mail.sisna.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-6.00) id AFA9BA360064; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:20:09 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000215233751.009b61f0@mail.sisna.com> X-Sender: LBradley@mail.sisna.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:38:23 -0700 To: R2BESHON@aol.com From: Lucy Bradley Subject: Re: mesquite trees In-Reply-To: <17.1d2be6f.25daebd5@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lucy Bradley is on Sabbatical. Your message has been forwarded to the arid_gardener list. At 12:50 PM 02/15/2000 -0500, you wrote: >i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were >planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over >from the >winds of june and july. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. >what is >your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. > >also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest >treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in >clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the >disease >never completely leaves. any ideas? Lucy Bradley will be on Sabbatical until January 1, 2001. Please check with one of the folks below for assistance: * Gardening questions -- * Master Gardener Program in Maricopa County -- Cathy Rymer * The new Statewide Coordinator for Arizona Master Gardener Programing Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> * The new Webmaster for the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) Lenny Librizzi * The new Webmaster for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Kim McReynolds * The new List Manager for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Lee Clark * The new Webmaster and List Manager for the Arizona Community Tree Council Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> If you have other questions please contact Carol Noyes and she will direct you. --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary-- From am22old@yahoo.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:11:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:11:59 -0700 (MST) From: am22old@yahoo.com am22old@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The leaves are curling on a young Tangelo tree. What causes this and is it something about which to be concerned? Thank you From jabgva@mindspring.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:59:32 -0700 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:59:32 -0700 From: Jim Basso jabgva@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] trees This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was startled when the mgr of a large landscaping firm stated that they could no longer top trees because of a state law. Is this true ? ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was startled when the mgr of a large = landscaping=20 firm stated

that they could no longer top trees = because of a=20 state law. Is this

true ?

------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560-- From Azbriar@aol.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 20:18:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 20:18:59 -0700 (MST) From: Azbriar@aol.com Azbriar@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I kill bermuda grass in my garden? Is rototilling the garden 2X year just spreading the bermuda? Should I spray it to die and not plant for a year to let it die out? From jabgva@mindspring.com Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:36:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:36:33 -0700 From: Jim Basso jabgva@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite trees We have 17 of these trees in our common area of our HOA Our new Maintenance Mgr refused to trim them last summer over the objections of the owners whose view was being blocked, and stated that they should only be trimmed in Jan. or Feb. and evidently our board agreed with him. I would like to take this contrary opinion to our HOA meeting Monday, Feb. 21th Thanks Jim Basso in Green Valley,Az From margie@azwest.net Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:18:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:18:07 -0700 (MST) From: margie@azwest.net margie@azwest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are having a terrible problem catching or trapping a gopher. We live in Buckeye in a rural area. Do you have any suggestions? We are also putting in an asparagus bed. Do you have any suggestions? From aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:40:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:40:52 -0700 (MST) From: aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently moved to a new home that is landscaped. I have no idea what types of plants I have growing around my back and front yards. I was told that if I sent a package to the extension, the plants could be identified for me. Is this true? I have about 26 different types of plants, and I have taken some to a garden center--but they don't seem as 'sure' as I'd like them to sound. Please let me know if this is possible, and if so, where can I send it. Thank you! Aleen Walker From henryr@kaibab.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:17:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:17:22 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm wanting to start a vegetable garden and I would like to know if Burpee or NK brands at garden stores are okay to plant. Or is there a certain brand of seeds I should be using for our Mesa soil. Is there a store or outlet that caters to Arizona gardeners? Thank you for answering my last question on rototilling. From tabeauaz@aol.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:55:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:55:14 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I'm looking for some sugestions on flowers or plants for a northern location that gets some morning sun, but is generally in shade, the ground tends to stay very moist on it's own, and I'd like to not have to water a great deal if possible. Any ideas( perenials?) would be appreciated. Thanks. P.S. and any sugestions for different plants that will flower at different times of the year( sorry to be a pest)Diane From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:03:48 EST Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:03:48 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Identifying trees and shrubs Aleen, The plant diagnostic session meets each Friday from 7.30 to 9.00 AM at 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix. I would sugest that if you are able, to bring a leaf from each plant to the session personally to be identified. If you are unable to be in attendance at that time, bring the samples in the previous day so that they are as fresh as possible. Often times samples that are mailed are not in good enough condition for identification. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:05:40 EST Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:05:40 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses Now is the time to prune roses if you live in the low desert. Mary Lou Coffman has written an excellent article on pruning roses which ran in the Arizona Republic recently. Watch for future articles in the Wednesday Republic on rose care by Mary Lou or myself. I'm enclosing her article here. If you are really into growing roses why not join one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley, and learn some of the secrets that rosarians use to grow prize winning roses. Send me the area of the valley that you live and I'll send you the address and telephone of the closest club. Good luck, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:33:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:33:45 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Name Brand Vegetable Seeds Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: ,: Thursday, February 17, 2000 1:17 PM > ... I would like to know if Burpee or NK brands at garden stores are okay to plant. Or is there a certain brand of seeds I should be using for our Mesa soil. Is there a store or outlet that caters to Arizona gardeners? ... The brand name of the seeds doesn't really have anything to do with where the seeds were grown or if they are adapted to our low desert climate. Many seed companies based in the east, like Burpee, purchase many of their seeds from western growers. At this time of the year, seeds labeled "For 2000" are usually okay to plant. But when buying seeds in late summer or early fall, avoid those on seed racks which have been exposed to our hot summer temperatures. There are wholesale seed companies in the valley that supply farm seeds but the for the small quantities needed for gardens, garden centers and mail order catalogs offer wider selections and are relatively inexpensive. For warm season vegetables, cultivar selection and planting time are very important. Select a cultivar with a short growing season such that it can be planted when the soil is warm enough for germination and early enough to mature before succumbing to the hot weather but late enough avoid the last frost. Our cool weather growing season is much longer and cultivar selection is not so critical. There is a recommended schedule for planting vegetables in the low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf . It is usually possible to plant somewhat earlier or later than the schedule dates if you have a special environmental or exposure situation or if you want to use season extenders for frost protection or summer shade but the schedule in Pub. AZ1005 is a good place to begin. The monthly gardening tips at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm may also be helpful. As to the comment about Mesa soil, desert soil needs some conditioning for vegetables to be productive. Publications listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil and at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable may be ordered from the cooperative extension (instructions at the pubs dot htm site) or they may be perused and copied from a set at the reference section of your local library. There is also a general vegetable gardening article at http://home.att.net/~millero/vegetables.html which you may find helpful. Olin Miller From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:04:27 -0700 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:04:27 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomatoes & Leaf Hoppers Thanks for posting your interesting and informative article about growing tomatoes throughout the winter. Many of us have never tried planting tomatoes in the fall although indeterminate types planted in the spring will often survive throughout the summer, sometimes with no shading, and produce again in the fall and winter. As to your question about Curly Top and Leaf Hoppers, some years we get Curly Top on both determinates and indeterminates and some years on neither (last year, for example). So I would suspect it has to do with temperature and humidity as to whether or not they appear at all, but the timing may have more to do with the photo period (day length) since leaf hoppers are also found in cooler climates at the same time of year. Would be interested if you have any further observations on this. Olin [On 2/13/00, Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com wrote: >Today, 2/13/00, I ate my first tomato. I planted Carmello seeds = (Shepherds seeds) in September. Transplanted to the garden in October = after the highs were consistently less than 100. I had to use shade = cloth because it was so hot and dry. I planted them in my garden on the = South side of the house, partly under the eave. By the end of November, = the plants were 3 feet high, growing out of the top of their cages. For = frost protection, I put a bunch of one gallon plastic milk cartons = filled with water around the plants. Where I live, the lows are ten to = eleven degreees less than the official Sky Harbor temperatures. I get = up at 5am and listen to the radio. If there is a chance of frost, I put = sheets over the tomato cages. I have noticed that the temperature = falls precipitously in the hour or two before dawn. It can be 40 in = Scottsdale (50 at Sky Habor) at 5am and then 29 at 7 am. =20 The plants grew very slowly in December and early January when the days = are short. With longer days, the plants are now 5 feet tall, filling = the cages and full of 2-3" fruits. Last year, I had tomatos from = February to May, but the leaves curled, suggesting curly top virus. = Also, I grew Celebrity, a determinate variety, which may explain why my = plants stopped producing. My question: When exactly do I need to put = on shade cloth to prevent curly top virus transmitted by leafhoppers? = Is there specific information available about temperatures and humidity = effects on the leafhoppers? The way our climate changes from year to = year probably means that I need to know temperatures and rainfall rather = than hard and fast dates. From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:06:28 -0700 Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 08:06:28 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Chopped Pecan Leaves in Compost Hello again, As luck has it, I found some old notes from a Master Gardener conference where I attended a session on compost [1995 or 1996]. Indeed, the notes on items NOT to put in a compost pile include pecan leaves and palo verdes, in addition to the list I originally sent you [salt cedars,eucalyptus, and oleander]. However, my notes indicated that the threat is reduced if your pile is active/hot and you keep it in there OVER a year's time. I do not remember who taught the course, but think that Cathy Crommell, our compost expert, was involved. So I believe these notes represent pretty good information. Linda Guy Master Gardener robert_michael@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have been making compost with chopped pecan tree leaves. I heard somewhere that the addition of this compost to soil will inhibit the growth of plants like tomato and lettuce. Is this true? > > Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From rkamyniski@yahoo.com Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:22:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 21:22:17 -0700 (MST) From: rkamyniski@yahoo.com rkamyniski@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is causing my citrus leafs to curl up and start to turn yellow? From csalai@aol.com Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:49:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 12:49:36 -0700 (MST) From: csalai@aol.com csalai@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to take cuttings off a neighbors grape vine and start them in my yard. Do I take my cuttings from a specific area? What is best time of year to take a cutting? How do I get the cutting to root? In what mixture/solution? From dolsontree@hotmail.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 02:36:58 PST Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 02:36:58 PST From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees >From: "Linda A. Guy" >To: greygoat@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 > >arid_gardener >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and >it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the >female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common >on >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You >might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies >since your trees are engulfed. > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly >review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and >recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect >these at >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. >Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on >both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to >the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of >it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - it does seem like bagworms.control methods:pheromone traps,hand picking,Bt.malathion,diazinon,acephate. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From dolsontree@hotmail.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:54:09 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:54:09 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: Fw: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: don olson To: Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 8:48 PM Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > oleanders should be "select"pruned in late summer to fall.They do tolerate > hard pruning,but it may take two years to bloom freely.It's not necessary to > hack back every year,unless it's too large for the allotted space. then it > should be replaced with something that grows to the mature height needed. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 4:41 PM > Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > > arid_gardener > > Our Homeowners Association is planning a MAJOR pruning of the oleanders. > This means the plants will be cut down to just 5-7 inch stems. They say this > will insure blooms for the summer. I would like to know if this is a good > thing, and when is the best time to prune oleanders? > > Also, They did this last year at the end of April and I was very upset. I > plan to be outside the day this happens to tell them NOT to cut the plants. > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:55:21 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 03:55:21 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: Fw: [AG] trees This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF7A8D.25000940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: don olson=20 To: Jim Basso=20 Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 1:56 AM Subject: Re: [AG] trees I don't know which state you're from,but some areas in our country are = adding these laws.Very Very Good!! Topping is one of the worse things = you could do to a tree.Topping is so common, thatevery one thinks it's = the right way to treat trees.Some how the general public needs to be = educated.In fact i just came back from a seminar and saw lots of = pictures of dead poeple killed by falling weakly attached limbs from = topped trees. ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Jim Basso=20 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:59 AM Subject: [AG] trees I was startled when the mgr of a large landscaping firm stated that they could no longer top trees because of a state law. Is this true ? ------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF7A8D.25000940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

----- Original Message -----=20

From: don olson=20

To: Jim Basso

Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 1:56 AM

Subject: Re: [AG] trees

I don't know which state you're from,but some = areas in=20 our country are adding these laws.Very Very Good!! Topping is one of the = worse=20 things you could do to a tree.Topping is so common, thatevery one thinks = it's=20 the right way to treat trees.Some how the general public needs to be = educated.In=20 fact i just came back from a seminar and saw lots of pictures of = dead=20 poeple killed by falling weakly attached limbs from topped = trees.

----- Original Message -----

From:=20 Jim=20 Basso

To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu =

Sent: Thursday, February 17, = 2000 8:59=20 AM

Subject: [AG] trees

I was startled when the mgr of a = large=20 landscaping firm stated

that they could no longer top trees = because of a=20 state law. Is this

true = ?

------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF7A8D.25000940-- From doryvan@aol.com Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:59:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 15:59:59 -0700 (MST) From: doryvan@aol.com doryvan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you tell the difference between the symptoms of: Fertilizer burn Sun burn Cotton Root Rot How do you know when, or if, it is necessary to paint citrus tree trunks? If branches are exposed to the hot summer sun, should they also be painted? Is there a reference book that you recommend? From KIT-Jackie@msn.com Fri, 18 Feb 2000 17:35:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 17:35:30 -0700 (MST) From: KIT-Jackie@msn.com KIT-Jackie@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My mother just laid flagstone on the east side of her house. It gets sunlight but not for very long due to the house being on the west of the area and a 6 ft. fence on the east and north sides. She would like to plant some herbs and grasses in the 2-4" crevices between the stones. What herbs and grasses would be suitable for this. They might even get stepped on occasionally. From DOco260037 Fri, 18 Feb 2000 20:11:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 20:11:35 -0700 (MST) From: DOco260037 DOco260037 Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a minature rose tree that has 3/4 of the plant(not on leaves or roses)a white substance, if possible what does the rose tree have and is their a control for this problem or is it a problem. Thank You From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:17:36 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:17:36 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: your jan 9th posting re: north wall shrubbery --------------BD26BCFD14EF931A20D807F1 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sue and Thomas, No I hadn't forgotten you; just unable to get back on the 'job' until today. Unfortunately, I received no response to my posting asking for personal experiences/ recommendations for north side shrubbery. But I do have some ideas to share with you. Your area is even more of a challenge than mine, given that it appears to be an entirely enclosed area [did I get that right?] First, the privet. Do I sense you are ready to take it down? Most varieties are better adapted to elevations over 2,000 feet (Ligustrum lodense/Privet, Ligustrum/Amur River, & L. texanum/Wax Leaf Privet). The Japanese privet is most adapted to the lower desert elevations (L. japonica). If you know the variety and its adaptability, it may help you with a decision to remove. As to renewal, I've no personal experience to share. However, a neighbor has had a substantial privet hedge for at least a dozen years, which does not appear to get as much sun as yours, and I see them taking up to 1/2 the hedge during some pruning episodes. Our fact sheet MC 19 Pruning Digest for Landscape Plants, suggests that never more than 1/3 should be removed, but that substantial pruning will force new growth to fill in at the base of the plants preventing them from becoming leggy. Keep at this process until you have the hedge you desire. You can see this publication in the reference section of any public library (ask for the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture Pubs) or order it from us, using instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm At this same web page, you will see the names of several other pubs in the ornamentals section (MC 5, 30 and 34 come to mind) that you could also consult on plant selection. If you determine that the privet has reached the course of its life, then new plant material is the better route to pursue. It's sometimes hard to make this kind of decision, but I've always been satisfied when me and the Mr. remove even large shrubs or trees that simply are not working for an area. Having been the ones who did the original planting (time, $, effort, etc.) makes it harder to admit we should have made a wiser choice, but, again, we're usually better off considering the garden an ongoing experiment, cutting the losses and taking a different approach. [We often like to blame mistakes on my green thumb when a plant that is advertised to grow only so big responded TOO favorably to my TLC!] On to the shady issue. I worked with a several month old article out of the Republic's garden section and the UofA's cd-rom on plant selection, which has a query function http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm I have some of the following suggestions. For vines: violet trumpet vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), native grape (Cissustrifoliata), queen's wreath (Antigonon leptopos), snail vine (Viga cacacalla), yellow morning glory (Merremia aurea). There are others for full deep shade, if you have one section that is always in that state. As to shrubs, those that take some shade are the salvias (coccinea, leucantha and greggii in particular), Dicliptera (D. resupinata), and Mexican honeysuckle (Justicia spicigera). Other accent plants could include agaves and aloes and euphorbias. These can add color and texture via foliage, and of course the aloe blooms are beloved by the hummingbirds. I had particularly good luck using Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) on the north face of a south wall in my herb gardens. Nice grey/green foliage, purple bloom, that grew all winter despite full shade [in part because it wasn't cold this year]. I believe these are about a 4x4 shrub. Another, entirely different strategy would be to do container gardening. This could even include small trees. The strategy here would be to create a portable garden that you move to other patios or areas of the house and yard as the seasons change. If you ever have a chance to take our container gardening class from Cheryl Czaplicki, you will be a convert forever! http://video2.agforbes.arizona.edu:8080/maricopa/calendar.asp?FormMode=Date The Desert Botanical Garden is offering a class called Landscaping for Difficult Locations on Saturday, March 18. This will include a tour to view some of the plants recommended for these types of places. Check out the class schedule at www.dbg.org Hope this gets you started! Linda Guy Master Gardener > > Thomas & Sue Green wrote: > > > Dear Linda; I just ran across your message. I am in the > > same situation and was wondering if you could share some > > suggestions you received?! The area I have is a 2 1/2 by 2 > > 1/2 foot space, located up against the north wall of my > > house, under the eaves, and right at the west corner of > > the house. The space is a "contained area" surrounded by > > a brick patio on 3 sides, and then the house on the 4th > > side. In addition to the shade months of Nov,Dec & Jan > > which you mentioned, we get even more due to an over grown > > privet hedge which sits to the west of this area. > > However, once the sun makes it move across the sky in the > > summer, the area is blasted by the afternoon heat until > > about 5:30 or 6:00. I'm fond of green and very fond of > > color (flowers :), but I'll settle for anything that will > > survive this awkward situation! I'd really like to > > severely chop the privet hedge, both in height (about 6 ft > > now) and width (probably close to 5 ft now.) The husband > > is worried that it will look "ugly" forever; there's a lot > > of "dead" stuff in the middle! Any suggestions?? I just > > found this site, after reading this past Wednesday's > > paper. If I have made a mistake by contacting you via > > this manner vs. posting a message, please just send this > > back with the word "POST" and I will do so. Thank you very > > much. Sue Green > --------------BD26BCFD14EF931A20D807F1 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Sue and Thomas,

No I hadn't forgotten you; just unable to get back on the 'job' until today.

Unfortunately, I received no response to my posting asking for personal experiences/
recommendations for north side shrubbery. But I do have some ideas to share with you. Your area is even more of a challenge than mine, given that it appears to be an entirely enclosed area [did I get that right?]

First, the privet. Do I sense you are ready to take it down? Most varieties are better adapted to elevations over 2,000 feet (Ligustrum lodense/Privet, Ligustrum/Amur River, & L. texanum/Wax Leaf Privet). The Japanese privet is most adapted to the lower desert elevations (L. japonica). If you know the variety and its adaptability, it may help you with a decision to remove. As to renewal, I've no personal experience to share. However, a neighbor has had a substantial privet hedge for at least a dozen years, which does not appear to get as much sun as yours, and I see them taking up to 1/2 the hedge during some pruning episodes. Our fact sheet MC 19 Pruning Digest for Landscape Plants, suggests that never more than 1/3 should be removed, but that substantial pruning will force new growth to fill in at the base of the plants preventing them from becoming leggy. Keep at this process until you have the hedge you desire. You can see this publication in the reference section of any public library (ask for the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Home Horticulture Pubs) or order it from us, using instructions at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

At this same web page, you will see the names of several other pubs in the ornamentals section (MC 5, 30 and 34 come to mind) that you could also consult on plant selection.

If you determine that the privet has reached the course of its life, then new plant material is the better route to pursue. It's sometimes hard to make this kind of decision, but I've always been satisfied when me and the Mr. remove even large shrubs or trees that simply are not working for an area. Having been the ones who did the original planting (time, $, effort, etc.) makes it harder to admit we should have made a wiser choice, but, again, we're usually better off considering the garden an ongoing experiment, cutting the losses and taking a different approach. [We often like to blame mistakes on my green thumb when a plant that is advertised to grow only so big responded TOO favorably to my TLC!]

On to the shady issue. I worked with a several month old article out of the Republic's garden section and the UofA's cd-rom on plant selection, which has a query function
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm

I have some of the following suggestions. For vines: violet trumpet vine (Clytostoma callistegioides), native grape (Cissustrifoliata), queen's wreath (Antigonon leptopos), snail vine (Viga cacacalla), yellow morning glory (Merremia aurea). There are others for full deep shade, if you have one section that is always in that state.

As to shrubs, those that take some shade are the salvias (coccinea, leucantha and greggii in particular), Dicliptera (D. resupinata), and Mexican honeysuckle (Justicia spicigera). Other accent plants could include agaves and aloes and euphorbias. These can add color and texture via foliage, and of course the aloe blooms are beloved by the hummingbirds.

I had particularly good luck using Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) on the north face of a south wall in my herb gardens. Nice grey/green foliage, purple bloom, that grew all winter despite full shade [in part because it wasn't cold this year]. I believe these are about a 4x4 shrub.

Another, entirely different strategy would be to do container gardening. This could even include small trees. The strategy here would be to create a portable garden that you move to other patios or areas of the house and yard as the seasons change. If you ever have a chance to
take our container gardening class from Cheryl Czaplicki, you will be a convert forever!
http://video2.agforbes.arizona.edu:8080/maricopa/calendar.asp?FormMode=Date

The Desert Botanical Garden is offering a class called Landscaping for Difficult Locations on Saturday, March 18. This will include a tour to view some of the plants recommended for these types of places. Check out the class schedule at
www.dbg.org

Hope this gets you started!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Thomas & Sue Green wrote:
Dear Linda; I just ran across your message. I am in the same situation and was wondering if you could share some suggestions you received?! The area I have is a 2 1/2 by 2 1/2 foot space, located up against the north wall of my house, under the eaves, and right at the west corner of the house. The space is a "contained area" surrounded by a brick patio on 3 sides, and then the house on the 4th side. In addition to the shade months of Nov,Dec & Jan which you mentioned, we get even more due to an over grown privet hedge which sits to the west of this area. However, once the sun makes it move across the sky in the summer, the area is blasted by the afternoon heat until about 5:30 or 6:00. I'm fond of green and very fond of color (flowers :), but I'll settle for anything that will survive this awkward situation! I'd really like to severely chop the privet hedge, both in height (about 6 ft now) and width (probably close to 5 ft now.) The husband is worried that it will look "ugly" forever; there's a lot of "dead" stuff in the middle! Any suggestions?? I just found this site, after reading this past Wednesday's paper. If I have made a mistake by contacting you via this manner vs. posting a message, please just send this back with the word "POST" and I will do so. Thank you very much. Sue Green

--------------BD26BCFD14EF931A20D807F1-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:22:31 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:22:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: [Lime Care] Hi Ronald, I'm not so sure it is our recent weather, as much as it is that limes would do better in slightly different environment. Check out Greenfield Nursery's web site at http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/lemlime.htm Their chart doesn't suggest that limes in our area get to the point of being good eating. I'm strongly considering replacing my lime tree after another season or so because I've only gotten extremely tangy fruit, whether green or yellow. It's a cute little dwarf, so I'm considering trying to keep it as an ornamental in a patio container and replace it with another fruit tree more easily grown in our environment. Linda Guy Master Gardener ronald olive wrote: > Thanks for your helpful information. The weather > has been so unsual this winter I think that may have > something to do with my problems also. Now a limb on > the lime tree is dying and I don't know why. The > small limes elsewhere on the tree are still green and > growing. Do you have any recomendation on what citrus > fertilizer is best to use? I guess March is the time > to fertilize the citrus trees. Thanks again for your > help. Ron > > fertilizer > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > I'm no citrus expert, but I do have a lime tree whose performance was > similar to yours this year. Limes are not the easiest citrus to grow in > our area. They are extremely frost sensitive and need to be planted in a > warm area, out of the winds. You don't say which variety you have, but I > will share that the Bearss seedless (Persian) is the recommended type > for our locale. Others sold include Mexican (Key) and Rangpur. All are > fairly tart and range in green to yellow in color. > > I have slightly conflicting information on the 'ripening season' (again > remember these are going to be tart): our publication AZ 1001 on Low > Desert Citrus > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf > says it is July through January for Bearss. Mexican limes ripen in > September but you can experience some small percentage of fruit > remaining throughout the year. > > My lime performed exactly as did yours. Most fruit fell in December [I > have a Bearss] and the tree has been setting new fruit for at least the > last month. The fruit was yellow this year (lack of cold can impact the > color) and is usually always tending to tart/sour. > > Your irrigation schedule is not quite what citrus prefer. Deep > infrequent watering (every 10 - 14 days in summer; every 21 to 30 days > in winter) is preferred. Citrus does very well in flood irrigated > communities, e.g. You should also be starting the first tranche of your > fertilization for this year soon. > > If you have more questions on care, check out our citrus publications > list at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus > Most are not online, but can be viewed in the reference section of your > public library. If you want to order a copy, instructions are at the top > of this web page. > > Good luck! > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > ronolive@usa.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I have a lime tree that was not taken care of > > for years until we bought the house. I have > > taken care of it since then and it bore limes > > for the first time this year. A month ago they > > all turned yellow and fell off the tree with > > little to no green color. Now there is a new > > small crop on the tree. I am afraid they will > > turn yellow and prematurely fall off again. > > I was watering every 7 days. Now I am watering > > every 14 days for thirty minutes. It takes about 4 hours for the > > water to fully absorb into the ground from the > > birm around the tree. What am I doing wrong? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.amexmail.com/?A=1 From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:32:10 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:32:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires Our website suggests planting potatoes in January/February in the low desert. See our timely tips http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm However, in an article printed in the Arizona Republic on 4 Dec 99 by Extension Agent Terry Mikel, as early as December would yield best results. This article also discusses the tire trick. It may be too late for you to try this now. I did something similar with an old compost barrel (trash can with aeration holes which I received from the city's solid waste unit). I didn't start the potatoes as early as Terry recommended (I believe I did so in February) and I feel that the black plastic got too hot by March and cooked the potatoes before I had a chance to do so! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 16:49:49 EST Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 16:49:49 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Powdery Mildew on roses The white substance on your rose leaves is probably Powdery Mildew since it is the time of year for it to attack roses as well as other plants. It is quite difficult to eradicate once gets a start. There are several fungicides on the market that will help to control the mildew, however the best approach is to spray as a preventative before the mildew strikes. A few of the fungicides available are FUNGINEX, IMMUNOX, RALLY and RUBIGAN. Good luck, Rod From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 19 Feb 2000 20:50:09 -0700 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 20:50:09 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires I find the soil gets too warm for potatoes in rubber tires as well as in raised beds and also if covered with a light mulch like straw. Best results for me have been to grow them in regular garden soil. I also have found January planting is best - February is a bit late. You can also plant in late fall but nothing much happens until February regardless of when they are planted. There are some tips at http://home.att.net/~millero/potatoes.html which you mat find elpful. -Olin [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page, zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com, Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------- Previous message: [AG] Ficus Tree shedding leaves Next message: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ] ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Cc: Arid gardener server Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 11:32 AM Subject: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires > arid_gardener > Our website suggests planting potatoes in January/February in the low desert. See our timely tips > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm > > However, in an article printed in the Arizona Republic on 4 Dec 99 by Extension Agent Terry Mikel, as early as December would yield best results. This article also discusses the tire trick. It may be too late for you to try this now. > > I did something similar with an old compost barrel (trash can with aeration holes which I received from the city's solid waste unit). I didn't start the potatoes as early as Terry recommended (I believe I did so in February) and I feel that the black plastic got too hot by March and cooked the potatoes before I had a chance to do so! > > Good luck! > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From darnbugs@az.freei.net Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:35:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 14:35:14 -0700 (MST) From: darnbugs@az.freei.net darnbugs@az.freei.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page best grass for yearround in phoenix From twozonies@aol.com Sat, 19 Feb 2000 20:43:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 20:43:11 -0700 (MST) From: twozonies@aol.com twozonies@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My ocotillo is oozing inky sap from the lower part of several canes. It was transplanted several months ago - it's about 8 feet tall. It came from the nursery with its roots chopped off at the base (salvaged from a building site. It's replacing one that died from grub infestation. I treated the soil with diazinon before this one was planted. have kept the soil moist and added growth hormone. is the sap due to the season or an indication of disease? From bsotta@pol.net Sun, 20 Feb 2000 06:33:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 06:33:18 -0700 (MST) From: bsotta@pol.net bsotta@pol.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tomato plants. Planted 2 wks ago. Nice stocky green plants. Now leaves turning purple. Placed in amended soil, raised beds. Used commercial mulch, 10-10-10 fertilizer, sulfur and bonemeal. Grew great tomatoes last year in unamended soil except for fertilizer in unraised area. Thank you for any help. Bob From delsea@uswest.net Sun, 20 Feb 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) From: delsea@uswest.net delsea@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when do you fertilize palm trees? From magliocco@aol.com Sun, 20 Feb 2000 11:32:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 11:32:29 -0700 (MST) From: magliocco@aol.com magliocco@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Here in Phoenix, I often see many wild flowers growing along the roadsides. I was told these are Mexican Poppys or Mexican wild flowers. Can you please help? From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:03:47 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:03:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3A0172D6DC94E7FACAE74F22 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please note a different point of view on the subject of growing potatoes in tires, which I just received. If you are interested in the subject and desire an option, check out the Lee Valley Garden Tools catalog (early spring 2000). The back cover has an adjustable compost or potato barrel for only $15.95 (plus s/h). Made of recycled polyethylene, about 30" high and adjusts from 1 to 3' in diameter. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------3A0172D6DC94E7FACAE74F22 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp02.primenet.com (smtp02.primenet.com [206.165.6.132]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id CAA08926 for ; Sun, 20 Feb 2000 02:07:03 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp02.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id CAA20014 for ; Sun, 20 Feb 2000 02:06:48 -0700 (MST) Received: from law2-f295.hotmail.com(216.32.180.149), claiming to be "hotmail.com" via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA0fa4eN; Sun Feb 20 02:06:44 2000 Received: (qmail 54548 invoked by uid 0); 20 Feb 2000 09:07:03 -0000 Message-ID: <20000220090703.54547.qmail@hotmail.com> Received: from 12.72.57.233 by www.hotmail.com with HTTP; Sun, 20 Feb 2000 01:07:03 PST X-Originating-IP: [12.72.57.233] From: "Wayne Craft" To: laguy2@primenet.com Subject: Re: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 01:07:03 PST Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I am a Master Gardener in Calif so my climate may be different but the tires are the same. I work with schools and advise them and anyone else NOT to grow any foodstuff in rubber tires. Whatever chemicals are in them or on them (such as lead if they are used) could leach out onto your produce. I con't remember what it is that isn't so good about them but have heard this from other more knowledgeable people than I am. >From: "Linda A. Guy" >To: zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com >CC: Arid gardener server >Subject: [AG] Potatoes in Rubber Tires >Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:32:10 -0700 > >arid_gardener >Our website suggests planting potatoes in January/February in the low >desert. See our timely tips >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm > >However, in an article printed in the Arizona Republic on 4 Dec 99 by >Extension Agent Terry Mikel, as early as December would yield best results. >This article also discusses the tire trick. It may be too late for you to >try this now. > >I did something similar with an old compost barrel (trash can with aeration >holes which I received from the city's solid waste unit). I didn't start >the potatoes as early as Terry recommended (I believe I did so in February) >and I feel that the black plastic got too hot by March and cooked the >potatoes before I had a chance to do so! > >Good luck! >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes >in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, >whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a >regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a >garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall >Irish potatoes. Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com --------------3A0172D6DC94E7FACAE74F22-- From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:07:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:07:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Transplants Sounds to me that the last week's cooler nighttime temps may be the culprit. Have you ever tried a product called wall'o'waters which essentially creates a greenhouse around your plants to mitigate the impact of cool nights? Other options are floating row cover, or gallon milk jugs [bottom removed, stake through the pouring spout]. Linda Guy Master Gardener bsotta@pol.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Tomato plants. Planted 2 wks ago. Nice stocky > green plants. Now leaves turning purple. Placed > in amended soil, raised beds. Used commercial > mulch, 10-10-10 fertilizer, sulfur and bonemeal. > Grew great tomatoes last year in unamended soil > except for fertilizer in unraised area. Thank you > for any help. > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:10:12 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:10:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Palm Trees Check out our publication on landscape palms at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf It advises fertilizer two times per year, mid-spring and early summer. Palms have special nutrient requirements that you will want to read about in this publication. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener delsea@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > when do you fertilize palm trees? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:27:43 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:27:43 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Violet Hardenbergia In my experience with vines [though not this particular plant] an annual pruning is always advisable. In the Sunset Western Garden Book, page 316, the plant needs to be cut back after blooming [flowers winter into early spring] to prevent exactly the sort of tangling you have described. If you do not already, you should then consider some sort of support for its climbing nature [to 10']: a trellis, fence, low wall or garden arch. Also good in a container with a trellis. Otherwise, you could try to peg it down over an area as a ground cover. It likes well-drained soil; partial afternoon shade in hottest climates. Although relatively free of pests/diseases, watch out for spider mites or nematodes. Linda Guy Master Gardener sparrow424@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a mature violet hardenbergia. It is currently blooming but there are many dry leaves and "dead" vines. It seems that the new and healthy vines wrap around the others and kill them off. While I have tried to cut off the dead vines it is nearly impossible since the healthy shoots are so intertwined. Should this plant have been pruned prior to the blooming? How far back should it be cut? Please help me with the care of this beautiful plant. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:56:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 08:56:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Climate Zone for 85254 The zone usually depends on the book and/or organization you are dealing with. If you use the Sunset Western Garden Book as a reference, we are zone 13 on their scale of 1 to 24. A map and detailed explanation are on pp. 42-3. Their analysis factors in winter minimum temps, summer highs, lengths of growing season, humidity, and rainfall patterns. The USDA's scale of 1 to 11 is based solely on winter minimum temperatures, providing only a useful plant hardiness measure. I believed we were considered zone 9 on this scale (I'm at 85018, two zip codes south of you). But using the zone finder function at the Virtual Garden website http://vg.com/cgi-bin/v2/gezonefind/PID=69909511482803567909665,09783 it lists your zip code as Zone 8, USDA. This is an indicator you will often see in plant catalogs. By the way, I'm not convinced that zone 8 for you is correct. I think that zone 8 is more apt to be further north in the Valley from you, up against the Tonto Forest, not in the PV area of Phoenix. But I've been wrong before! Linda Guy Master Gardener dspjnp@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Scottsdale, AZ 85254, what region or zone is this considered to be? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:09:21 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:09:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato Transplants I think this is the sort of discoloration that we often associate with 'leaves turning color' in the fall, although I can't be sure without looking at them. I would try to hang on to the plants and not arbitrarily start all over. They don't appear to be dead by your description. It's a good learning experience for you. It is always a good reminder to us that our last frost date in Phoenix is, after all, mid March [depends on your locale, obviously] and when we try to run with unseasonable highs, we need to be prepared to cope if Mother Nature changes her mind! To doublecheck your last frost date, go to our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/frost.htm#first Linda Guy Robert Sotta wrote: > Ms. Guy, thank you for a prompt reply. It is very much appreciated. I > have tried your suggestions in the past in the NW US, but not to > prevent plants turning purple. Now that this has occurred, will they > recover or should I just replant? Thanks again. > > Bob > > ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- > Originally From: "Linda A. Guy" > Subject: Tomato Transplants > Date: 02/21/2000 08:07am > > Sounds to me that the last week's cooler nighttime temps may be the > culprit. Have you ever tried a product called wall'o'waters which > essentially creates a greenhouse around your plants to mitigate the > impact of cool nights? Other options are floating row cover, or gallon > milk jugs [bottom removed, stake through the pouring spout]. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > bsotta@pol.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > Tomato plants. Planted 2 wks ago. Nice stocky > > green plants. Now leaves turning purple. Placed > > in amended soil, raised beds. Used commercial > > mulch, 10-10-10 fertilizer, sulfur and bonemeal. > > Grew great tomatoes last year in unamended soil > > except for fertilizer in unraised area. Thank you > > for any help. > > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:14:27 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:14:27 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] White film on buildings It sounds as if it might be salt deposits from landscape sprinklers that may reach the buildings. Are you able to observe them? This would be similar to buildup you often witness on plant containers. I'm not sure what the impact on a building is; if it were a pool, I know that people often clean off similar deposits on their tile for aesthetics. What does the property manager say? Linda Guy Master Gardener goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:04:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:04:06 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sounds like nutrient deficiency. I would try drenching the root area with a water soluble fertilizer (like Miracle-Gro) diluted to 50 per cent of the recommended concentration. Planted my tomatoes out at the same time as you and they are doing great. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 6:33 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > Tomato plants. Planted 2 wks ago. Nice stocky > green plants. Now leaves turning purple. Placed > in amended soil, raised beds. Used commercial > mulch, 10-10-10 fertilizer, sulfur and bonemeal. > Grew great tomatoes last year in unamended soil > except for fertilizer in unraised area. Thank you > for any help. > Bob > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:28:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:28:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lime Care If you can stand one more piece of information on limes, here it is! In Wednesday's Smart Living section of the Republic, there was a lengthy discussion on specialty citrus. Under key limes (aka Mexican lime), the author notes that the fruit 'turns yellow as it matures.' As I relayed in my previous notes, my experiences with the lime tree have paralleled yours, and resulted in tart, yellow fruit. I still believe the tree is doing what it should, the best it knows how, in our Phoenix conditions. The article notes that they are cultivated for crop in Mexico, California, and Florida. Arizona is conspicuously absent from the list. You and I may simply need to settle for a more tangy flavor in fruit grown here. Enough on limes! Linda Guy Master Gardener From nfivebad@att.net Sun, 20 Feb 2000 16:43:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 16:43:08 -0700 (MST) From: nfivebad@att.net nfivebad@att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you recommend fertilizing a Chilean Mesquite? Tree is in rock yard. Location is Sun City West. Thank you, appreciate the opportunity to communicate with you via email. From Golfgranma@aol.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:21:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 09:21:40 -0700 (MST) From: Golfgranma@aol.com Golfgranma@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How and when do you prune emu bushes? they have a lot of new growth on them but the branches go every which way and I want them to be taller. Also, they have clusters of little black bugs...what are those and how do I get rid of them? Thanks very much - I'm from CO and familiar with mountain gardening at a high altitude but trying to learn about my desert plants. From tatorkaylob@aol.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 05:32:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 05:32:13 -0700 (MST) From: tatorkaylob@aol.com tatorkaylob@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My avocado tree's leaves are turning brown, what do I do? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:59:58 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 15:59:58 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Wildflower Identification Hello! I found a Wildflower link you might be interested in. The address is: http://www.desertusa.com/wildflo/az.html Click on their new Wildflower Field Guide and you will see lists of flowers by color. Choose a color and click and there are very nice photos on the chart. Some wildflowers commonly seen roadside in our area include Desert Marigold and Lupines. This is going to be a rather dismal wildflower year, however, with our lack of winter rains. Some books I can recommend that will help you identify what you are seeing are: Desert Wildflowers - which is is put out by Arizona Highways with text by the Desert Botanical Garden. I purchased my book at the Desert Botanical Garden. A Field Guide to the Plants of Arizona, by A. O. Epple is also a nice identification guide with color photographs. Enjoy! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer magliocco@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Here in Phoenix, I often see many wild flowers growing along the roadsides. I was told these are Mexican Poppys or Mexican wild flowers. Can you please help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:06:54 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:06:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Chilean Mesquite - fertilizing Here is some information I located in Ronald K. Dinchak's book, An Illustrated Guide to Landscape Trees of Southern Arizona. He states that the Chilean Mesquite can be fertilized at the rate of 1/2 pounds of ammonium sulfate or ammonium phosphate per 100 square feet of soil during the growing months. Two to three applications at four week intervals should be sufficient. Do not over fertilize or over water as weak stems will develop. FYI on watering: Newly planted trees require deep waterings. Decrease the frequency of waterings as the tree becomes established. Specimens five years and older can survive on normal rainfall. Water only during prolonged drought. I hope this helps. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer nfivebad@att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you recommend fertilizing a Chilean Mesquite? Tree is in rock yard. Location is Sun City West. Thank you, appreciate the opportunity to communicate with you via email. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:26:20 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:26:20 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Avocado - Leaves turning Brown Since I could find no helpful information on growing avocados in our area, I would suggest that you contact Dick Gross at rkg144@worldnet.att.net He is a member of the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers club. You can also find out more information about their club at our web site at the following location: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer tatorkaylob@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My avocado tree's leaves are turning brown, what do I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:43:25 -0700 Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 17:43:25 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Grapes - Making Cuttings I found some information for you in a book called Desert Gardening, The Complete Guide by George Brookbank. If you don't have this one its a great book for your gardening library. The book is broken down by months of the year and weeks within each month. He has a section on making cuttings listed in Week 5 of January. You can probably do this now as you make the cuttings from your prunings and he states that pruning, along with planting and fertilizing can be done in January or February. The following is from the book: If you are going to make cuttings from the prunings, select those that are free from mildew. Use 1-year-old wood that is tan-colored and about as thick as a little finger. It should have three or four buds on it and be about 9 inches long. Make the bottom cut straight across and close to the bud. Make the top cut at a slant. Then, if you drop the bundle, you will know which end is up. Before the bottom end dries out, dip it in RooTone dust, then shake off the excess. Nurseries sell this material in small packages. It doesn't keep forever and it's best used fresh. One-gallon cans are suitable for growing grape cuttings, one, two or three to a can. Fill the can with a sandy soil mix made up of equal parts of sand, compost, perlite and vermiculite. Don't use manure or fertilizers. Poke the cutting a third of the way down. Set the can in a sunny place and keep the soil moist. Next spring, the young plant can be set out in its permanent place. It will have exactly the same characteristics as the parent you pruned, so choose a good parent. Don't expect fruit for three more years. Good luck. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer csalai@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I want to take cuttings off a neighbors grape vine and start them in my yard. Do I take my cuttings from a specific area? What is best time of year to take a cutting? How do I get the cutting to root? In what mixture/solution? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From intelecaz@aol.com Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:42:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 21 Feb 2000 19:42:24 -0700 (MST) From: intelecaz@aol.com intelecaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My roses are starting to bloom, but the flowers have that short stubby look, like a flat top. The books i've read about nutrition say it may be a "boron" defeciency, or thrips. What product can I use to supply boron? From jnestle@home.com Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:41:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 11:41:27 -0700 (MST) From: jnestle@home.com jnestle@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How does Zoysia gras grow in Phoenix I have a uggly lawn I need help with grass I saw an add for this grass may also be called amazoy it is not a seed but a plug you put in the ground , my yard is an old grass it used to have irragation I do not irragate, but the grass is full of weeds and burrs or is there something better to do help Deborra with the ugly lawn From bettecon@gateway.net Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:09:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 22 Feb 2000 14:09:02 -0700 (MST) From: bettecon@gateway.net bettecon@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in sun city. My court yard around the bushes smells bad. The soil when it gets wet smells like a wet dog. How do I get rid of this smell. From korinek@uswest.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 08:42:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 08:42:13 -0700 (MST) From: korinek@uswest.net korinek@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am having trouble with a mature Rio Grande Ash tree. Last spring, it had very poor foliage when it becgan to leaf out. The leaves were curled and had sort of a cottony web or cocoon substance on the backs. I have also noticed some sap leakage on several limbs. Last spring, we sprayed the tree with copper sulfate and fertilized with minerals and watered it deeply. This did not help. Last fall, some landscape guys applied medicine into the trunk. I didn't think it would help at the time of the year, but they were persuasive. I did receive a suggestion of applying Ortho Rose defense granuals in the spring at the onset of the leafing out and watering deeply. Do you think this will help? From DDwill7300@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:10:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:10:21 -0700 (MST) From: DDwill7300@aol.com DDwill7300@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently planted three #2 ph. aurea (golden) in my backyard in rural Chandler. They appear to be taking well, but I am interested in other experiences with Bamboo in the Valley. I know the Phoenix Zoo has relative success with their displays. Any hints? From Winterinaz@juno.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 13:27:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 13:27:30 -0700 (MST) From: Winterinaz@juno.com Winterinaz@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For tomatoes planted at this time, whrn can harvest be expected, and will indeterminate types last well into the summer? Also is it possible to have two crops a year?. From wackymackey@psn.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:35:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:35:12 -0700 (MST) From: wackymackey@psn.net wackymackey@psn.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I get my soil tested, so I can condition it for vegetable garden? I am located near Chandler Blvd. & Price . thanks From Mkkmathome@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:08:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:08:00 -0700 (MST) From: Mkkmathome@aol.com Mkkmathome@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull! Thank you From dmktahoe@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 12:00:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 12:00:09 -0700 (MST) From: dmktahoe@aol.com dmktahoe@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i live in fountain hills and have a problem with wild pigs. havelinas they love to eat my flowers. what don't they like ????????? hope you can help me and my neighbors. thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 16:43:24 EST Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 16:43:24 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Roses with abnormal blossoms My rose blossoms also exhibit the same symptoms you describe of a stubby appearance with a flat top, and I have been blaming it on the weather conditions because every year the blooms that develop much earlier than normal are substandard. I've theorized that the low soil temperatures this time of year probably contribute to lack of normal bloom growth. I would not be concerned about this problem unless it continues when the roses come into full bloom. As to where to obtain boron, you need to find a nursery that stocks a micro nutrient fertilizer that contains boron. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:56:41 EST Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:56:41 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rio Grande Ash with problems You did not say whether or not you are deep watering your tree on a regular basis. If not then lack of water is probably the problem. This tree in the summer should be deep watered on a two to three week schedule. Winter watering should be every month to six weeks. I would recommend that you feed this tree with a all purpose fertilizer along with deep watering and schedule further periodic deep water. If it has not been stressed too badly it should recover. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:56:40 EST Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 18:56:40 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Soil tests Look in the yellow pages for laboratories that test soils. I've had good luck with IAS Laboratories, 2515 E. University, Phoenix. Cost is $30.00 for a standard test. Good luck. Rod From rbunkley@AOL.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 16:00:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 16:00:57 -0700 (MST) From: rbunkley@AOL.com rbunkley@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Suggestions, please, for plants to be used on a Phoenix covered patio that will add color. Full shade and very hot in summer. Thanks. From jbulhar@yahoo.com Wed, 23 Feb 2000 17:47:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 17:47:37 -0700 (MST) From: jbulhar@yahoo.com jbulhar@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Am also a Master Garderner in Tucson. Was wondering where/when the Low Desert Conference (usually held in July) will be held in 2000. Any ideas, referrals to(:)? Thanks. From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:49:55 -0700 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 20:49:55 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Low Desert Conference 2000 Hello! This year's Low Desert Conference will be held in conjunction with the Western Regional Conference at the Mesa Convention Center October 14-16. You can find a little more information at our web site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm. It includes a phone number for the Conference Hotline. Hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener jbulhar@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Am also a Master Garderner in Tucson. Was wondering where/when the Low Desert Conference (usually held in July) will be held in 2000. Any ideas, referrals to(:)? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:07:01 -0700 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:07:01 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Color for covered patio The first plant that came to mind for your full shade was Impatiens. Impatien allerana "Busy Lizzie" comes in so many colors - scarlet, pink, rose, violet, orange or white. You can plant them in pots or hanging baskets. They can take a lot of shade. Does you patio get any sunlight? A little morning sun? There are many more plants that would do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Dianthus and Dwarf Cupflower (Nierembergia) are a few that enjoy afternoon shade. Coleus with its colorful foliage enjoys shade. For some color right now before the temperatures get too hot, primrose would do fine in your full shade. Sue Bass Master Gardener rbunkley@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Suggestions, please, for plants to be used on a Phoenix covered patio that will add color. Full shade and very hot in summer. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:20:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:20:47 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gopher control You can find information on gophers and how to control them in our fact sheet, number Q403 which you can pick up at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension site at 4341 E. Broadway Rd. in Phoenix, 85040 or by sending $1 to this address and requesting that a copy be mailed to you. You can also view a copy in the resource department at your local library. Trapping can be very effective. You can purchase a Macabee gopher trap at most hardware or feedstores. Sue Bass Master Gardener Mkkmathome@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull! Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:23:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 22:23:14 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Color for covered patio Please excuse my typo! The type of Impatiens should have read, Impatien wallerana. Sue Bass Master Gardener Sue Bass wrote: > The first plant that came to mind for your full shade was Impatiens. Impatien allerana "Busy Lizzie" comes in so many colors - scarlet, > pink, rose, violet, orange or white. You can plant them in pots or hanging baskets. They can take a lot of shade. Does you patio get > any sunlight? A little morning sun? There are many more plants that would do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Dianthus and > Dwarf Cupflower (Nierembergia) are a few that enjoy afternoon shade. Coleus with its colorful foliage enjoys shade. For some color > right now before the temperatures get too hot, primrose would do fine in your full shade. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > rbunkley@AOL.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > Suggestions, please, for plants to be used on a Phoenix covered patio that will add color. Full shade and very hot in summer. Thanks. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From volleyballjunky@wwdb.org Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:06:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 09:06:47 -0700 (MST) From: volleyballjunky@wwdb.org volleyballjunky@wwdb.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What the procedure for planting cuttings from cactus plants? Is it recommended to dry them out first? How often should they be watered and/or fertilized? Thanks! From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:52:31 EST Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:52:31 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] herb drying what is the best method for drying herbs? From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:57:10 EST Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:57:10 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] reference line PLEASE REMIND YOUR READERS TO USE THE REFERENCE LINE FOR THE NAME OF THE PLANT. WHEN YOU HAVE ALOT OF E-MAILS IT HELPS IN DECIDING WHICH TO READ AND WHICH TO DELETE. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:21:55 -0700 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:21:55 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: AG] FREE Composted Horse Manure in Central AZ [There was a typo in the directions in the referenced post. Directions should read: "Location North on Cave Creek Road Past Lone Mountain Turn left (West) on Ocupado which is the 4th street past Lone mountain Ocupado is paved and only goes West (Left) This ends on 48th St. where you will go Right On Desert Forest go Left Pavement ends on 46th Street Go right on 46th 'till the pavement ends You'll see Lacaballeriza. Pull up to the gate and wait Note, Just stick to the pavement and you'll make all the correct turns Be sure to bring a tarp to cover the load to prevent it flying away!!" Great stuff, well composted I just picked up 5 yards this morning Olin ===================================== >From Lucy Bradley BradleyL@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:53:31 -0700 >Bring a truck and have it loaded for you, >You are welcome to as much as you want.<< >Call Perri at (480) 488-1034 to arrange a time for pick-up >Location >North on Cave Creek Road Past Lone Mountain >Take the 4th Street past Ocupado >It is paved and only goes West (Left) >This ends on 48th St. where you will go Right >On Desert Forest go Left >Pavement ends on 46th Street >Go right on 46th 'till the pavement ends >You'll see Lacaballeriza. >Pull up to the gate and wait >Note, Just stick to the pavement and you'll make all the right turns >Be sure to bring a tarp to cover the load to prevent it flying away!! >Lucy K. Bradley >Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture >Maricopa County >The University of Arizona >Cooperative Extension >4341 E Broadway Rd. >Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 >Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 >Fax: (602) 470-8092 >email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu > From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:54:22 -0700 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:54:22 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Growing bamboo in Phx area A good place to start looking for info on Bamboo is the American Bamboo Society (ABS) web site: http://www.halcyon.com/abs/ If you are really interested in communicating with other bamboo enthusiasts in the southwest US/northwest Mexico area, you might consider joining the Tierra Seca chapter of ABS. You can join the national ABS and the Tierra Seca chapter for a total of $35 or just the Tierra Seca chapter for $15. Good luck! -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 1 >Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2000 10:10:21 -0700 (MST) >From: DDwill7300@aol.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I recently planted three #2 ph. aurea (golden) in my backyard in rural >Chandler. They appear to be taking well, but I am interested in other >experiences with Bamboo in the Valley. I know the Phoenix Zoo has >relative success with their displays. Any hints? Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:40:39 -0700 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 12:40:39 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: White film on buildings Deep regular waterings [regular will need to refer to the requirements of the plant materials] is what will leach the salt. Folks will tend to water frequently but lightly, with the mistaken impression that water every day or few will help plants survive the heat. This is not correct and keeps the salt in the root zone as well. Among the ways you can educate yourself for your committee responsibilities is to peruse our home horticulture publications. Your specific issue on smart watering practices is in the Soil & Water section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil At the top of this web page are instructions for ordering any of the pubs of interest. You can also view the book of our pubs in the reference section of the local public library. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > Yes, salt deposits was my first thought as well. We recently replanted some > areas and found large pieces of drywall that was left behind by the builders > and that, too, may be leaching up thru the rocks. It's not hitting the > building though -- we were mainly concerned about the effect it would have on > the plantings. We are a small complex (108 units) and we don't have on-site > management. The property manager doesn't seem to give a damn (pardon my > frankness). We thought if it had to do with alkalinity or acidity we could > treat it chemically. I'm on the landscape committee, so it has become my job > to get to the root of the problem. > > Thanks much for your help though. If you have any additional thoughts, > please let me know. We certainly don't intend to dig up the areas where > there are white spots since it's way too large. Would it be worth a try to > put out a cup to catch some of the water though and see if it can be tested? > > Nancy Goldman From ejschmel@aol.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:50:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:50:57 -0700 (MST) From: ejschmel@aol.com ejschmel@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have several types of flowers in my garden and on many occasions the flowers are bitten off but then it lays on the ground, in other words not eaten. Could this be a worm, snail, grub? They cut off the hyacinth bud that was emerging at the base of the stem then left it. Help From EJSchmel@aol.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:40:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 13:40:33 -0700 (MST) From: EJSchmel@aol.com EJSchmel@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted several gladiolas 3 years ago and now in some of the areas there are 30 or more little sprouts coming up but do not bloom. Should I remove the smaller bulbs or leave them to grow larger? They seem to be separate from the original bulb. From dirad@doitnow.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 15:52:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 15:52:17 -0700 (MST) From: dirad@doitnow.com dirad@doitnow.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Is it possible to use something like Florel on an Ironwood and/or palo verde tree in order to keep it from having blooms and then pods? If so, when is the best time to spray it? Thank you. From cw4ajc@uswest.net Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:17:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:17:33 -0700 (MST) From: cw4ajc@uswest.net cw4ajc@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to grow Texas Mountain Laurel from seed? If so, how would be the best way to start them? From raddadtwo@email.msn.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:54:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 16:54:10 -0700 (MST) From: raddadtwo@email.msn.com raddadtwo@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Has anyone had success with Hostas? I have a "mini-climate" area under a deep overhang with an opaque skylight. In hot sun, an awning covers it so there's filtered/indirect light. Can you suggest which Hostas might be the best-I really like the blues!!!Any hands-on tips would be really appreciated! From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:28:47 -0700 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:28:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Transplanting aloes Since the aloes in question have been here for a while, they are acclimated to our heat. But aloes like some shade in the hottest summer afternoons, even filtered shade beneath a native tree, for example. If not, they'll probably still survive but look very burned and dried out and no longer 'succulent.' I don't suspect the change in soil will be much of a bother. They're fairly tolerant of different conditions but like good drainage. Depending on your fertilization practices, if they haven't been repotted in 7 years, they are probably ready for some replenished soil. I would do the transition soon to allow them to establish and get used to some sun before the summer blast hits. You may want to start this by moving the pots into the sun for a few hours in the next couple weeks to start this hardening process. How did you manage to keep them in the same pot for 7 years? I give away scores of 'pups' each year out of mine. Didn't they get cramped? Linda Guy Master Gardener DeVerasLT@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have two colonies of potted aloe vera on my back patio, where they've lived over 7 years in the shade. They need to be repotted. Can I move them into direct sunlight and plant them in Arizona soil? They originated in California - hard soil, full sun, but nothing like here! Help! > > Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From clydic@netzone.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:33:32 -0700 Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 17:33:32 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! I'm a Volunteer Master Gardener in Gila County who likes to monitor Arid Gardener. We have javelinas here, so am responding, even though your note is in Maricopa County. There aren't many things javelinas don't like. They will leave iris corms alone. I've had them dug up, but they don't eat them. I'd suggest you install a fence around your flower garden/bed (veggies too, if you have them) and anchor it well so they can't get underneath it. I'm afraid it's part of the price we pay living in this beautiful state, we have to share it with the critters... Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of dmktahoe@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 12:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener i live in fountain hills and have a problem with wild pigs. havelinas they love to eat my flowers. what don't they like ????????? hope you can help me and my neighbors. thank you _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 24 Feb 2000 20:36:06 EST Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 20:36:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Texas Mountain Laurel from seed I've started several Texas Mountain Laurel from seed. It is necessary to scarify the seed shell with a file before planting. I used a potting mix in a one gallon pot and kept the soil moist until the plants came up. This tree is a very slow grower; mine are about 5or 6 years old and still only 3 feet tall. Good luck. Rod From pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 25 Feb 2000 07:42:59 -0700 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 07:42:59 -0700 From: Patti Baciewicz pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: plant identification

From: "Nancy Ruby"
To:
Subject: plant identification
Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2000 20:24:56 -0700
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300

I am trying identify a plant that is gowing along I-17 in Phoenix.=A0 I was told that it may be called Mountain Laurel, but cannot find any information on it.=A0 Would your area be able to assist me in finding information on this plant or could you refer me to another group?=A0 The plant is a shrub type, has large clusters of purple flowers and has a strong "grape" scent.=A0 Thanks for your help.

From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 25 Feb 2000 14:29:54 EST Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 14:29:54 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Texas Mountain Laurel The tree or shrub is a Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) and can be grown as a tree or a shrub. As a tree it will grow to 20 to 30 feet high, is very heat, cold, drought, wind and poor soil tolerant. It does well in full sun as well as part shade. The seeds or beans are poisonous. It grows very slowly, I have two that were started from seed six years ago that are only 3 feet tall. It is a beautiful tree or shrub. Good luck. Rod From armstrng@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 25 Feb 2000 12:04:27 -0700 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 12:04:27 -0700 From: Robert C. Armstrong armstrng@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] RE: Do not open "happy99.exe" from Carol Lydic, re:master gardener survey, Delete Immediately! Note that users of Eudora should check their attachments folder and delete the file there. Typically this is c:\eudora\attach; if not check the Attachments category of your Eudora options. Users of Outlook, or Netscape mail (I think), should delete the entire message. Robert Armstrong Support Systems Analyst ExACT, UA Cooperative Extension armstrng@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: Chris Jones [mailto:ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu] Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 11:25 AM Subject: Do not open "happy99.exe" from Carol Lydic, re:master gardener survey, Delete Immediately! I just got a message from Carol Lydic, titled Re: Master Gardener Survey. She opened this virus, lost her computer, and it got sent out to others. Who I don't know. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 25 Feb 2000 11:25:00 -0700 Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 11:25:00 -0700 From: Chris Jones ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Do not open "happy99.exe" from Carol Lydic, re:master gardener survey, Delete Immediately! I just got a message from Carol Lydic, titled Re: Master Gardener Survey. She opened this virus, lost her computer, and it got sent out to others. Who I don't know. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (520) 425-7179 FAX: (520) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu From bditchey@nhccorp.com Fri, 25 Feb 2000 12:15:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 12:15:32 -0700 (MST) From: bditchey@nhccorp.com bditchey@nhccorp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the best way to maintain a "jade" plant (a succulent)indoors. In what light should it be kept and what should the watering schedule be. My plant is loosing its "leaves". Thank you. From tabeauaz@aol.com Fri, 25 Feb 2000 15:15:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 15:15:15 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Any suggestions on perrienals to plant that will do well in a shady norhern exposure? Ones that do not require alot of water also. Thanks, Diane From carlitt@goodnet.com Sat, 26 Feb 2000 10:04:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 10:04:01 -0700 (MST) From: carlitt@goodnet.com carlitt@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted an Ironwood tree (approx 5'tall) last Aug. It looked great for about 2 months, then the leaves began yellowing and dropping. The nursery recommended less water. We deep water it every 10 days. Soil dries between waterings. The tree is in full sun. It still has no leaves. The branches are a light green color, they are not dried out. There are tiny patches of what appears to be grey fuzz on the ends of the branches, it's hard to be sure because they are almost too small to see. The nursery said it was new growth but it's been 5 months since they said that. What should we do? Thanks. From doryvan@aol.com Sat, 26 Feb 2000 13:10:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 13:10:08 -0700 (MST) From: doryvan@aol.com doryvan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A recent answer on the arid_gardener mentioned a publication, "AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus", that could be found in the Public Library Reference Section. Called the Acacia Branch, the Main Phoenix Public Library, (Telephone Reference and Government Documents), AZ State Library and ASU Reference Library. No one knows what I am talking about. Where can I find the publication "AZ 1001, Low Desert Citrus"? From katt6@uswest.net Sat, 26 Feb 2000 10:58:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 10:58:13 -0700 (MST) From: katt6@uswest.net katt6@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have grown some beautiful brussels sprouts. The plants are large and healthy however, the brussels sprouts themselves never formed heads. They started to but then became leafy off-shoots instead. What do I need to know to prevent this from happening next year? From jerryvolpe@hotmail.com Sat, 26 Feb 2000 12:38:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 12:38:45 -0700 (MST) From: jerryvolpe@hotmail.com jerryvolpe@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have some trees in tucson,arizona and they are:grapefruit,orange and lemon their leaves are turning yellow and salt is coming out of the ground what should I do? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:24:44 -0700 Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 14:24:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Jade Plant Are the leaves that are falling off very thin? By that I mean, are they not plump like a healthy leaf? If so, it could be that the plant is too dry and needs a bit more water. Jades are best grown in bright sunlight with low humidity (not a problem here in the desert!). If your plant has been accustomed to dimmer light, you must move it into the sun in stages. Jades can sunburn if they are not used to full sun. They are best grown between 55 degrees at night and 75-80 degrees daytime temps. They should be repotted every two to three years. A good soil mix for them is a well drained commercial potting soil mixed equally with sharp builders sand and a scoop of bone meal added. They have an active and a dormant cycle. Watering and feeding are determined by what cycle they are in. During the spring and summer months keep the soil slightly moist. Water liberally but allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Do not let any excess water collect in the pot saucer. African violet food works well for them and you can fertilize every two weeks during this period (Spring and Summer). Keep the plant dry during the winter months as this is the plants slight dormant period. Give it a few weeks (maybe three) between watering but do watch the leaves if they begin to look dehydrated. Do not fertilize from November through March. Sue Bass Master Gardener bditchey@nhccorp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best way to maintain a "jade" plant (a succulent)indoors. In what light should it be kept and what should the watering schedule be. My plant is loosing its "leaves". Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 26 Feb 2000 16:51:25 EST Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 16:51:25 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus trees showing salt on the ground You should be deep watering once every three to four weeks to help flush the salt out of the root zone on your citrus. The water should be penetrating to a depth in excess of three feet. Good luck. Rod From dolsontree@hotmail.com Sun, 27 Feb 2000 05:14:42 -0700 Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 05:14:42 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF80E1.8EA2E3E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable im from arizona too. mesquites should not be topped either check out www.planthealthcare.com = =20 www.natlarb.com www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com thx.;-) ------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF80E1.8EA2E3E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

im from arizona too. mesquites should not be topped=20 either

check out www.planthealthcare.com = &= nbsp; &n= bsp; &nb= sp; &nbs= p; = ; = &= nbsp;=20

www.natlarb.com

www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com

thx.;-)

------=_NextPart_000_011C_01BF80E1.8EA2E3E0-- From mike.todd@asu.edu Sun, 27 Feb 2000 09:48:38 -0700 Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 09:48:38 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Shade tolerant perennial-Dicliptera Hi Diane: We have a shady "problem area" on the north side of our curving patio. In the summer it only gets afternoon sun, and in the winter, almost no sun at all, so it's been a real challenge to find something that does well in that spot. We planted a Dicliptera (Dicliptera resupinata) last spring, and it has thrived in the location. It is a lush low (~2 ft tall) shrub with green stems and deep green sharply tapered 1" long leaves. From spring through the fall it had lovely little (1/2" long) purple flowers. It came through this (mild) winter with no damage whatsoever. The Dicliptera is a Chihuahuan desert native with a natural elevation range of 3000' to 6000'--I suspect this is why it needed a little bit (but not much) more water than some of our low desert natives. The performance of the plant seems to be miraculous considering it's situation. As a bonus, we have had success propogating the plant from cuttings. Just my two cents. Good luck! -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 5 >Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2000 15:15:15 -0700 (MST) >From: >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Any suggestions on perrienals to plant that will do well in a shady >norhern exposure? Ones that do not require alot of water also. Thanks, >Diane Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From khill47@juno.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 07:59:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 07:59:52 -0700 (MST) From: khill47@juno.com khill47@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help! If you have an expert in Phoenix area rodents or snakes, I have a pest which I've been unable to identify. There are seven holes in the front yard made by this "critter" that have no characteristic earth mound around them. In fact there is no mound whatsoever around these holes and there are no evident trailings on the surface. The holes are often filled with loose dried grass and leaf litter. I've tried peanut butter/oatmeal mix to trap the offending pest to no avail (the ants ate it all) and the cats do not seem enamored of these things. (A snake or a plain old ground squirrel?) This "critter" has many tunnels and may cover an acre or more. There have been a few cave-ins which revealed a nesting site with multiple tunnels. I don't know if any plant damage is caused by them,but the holes, usually about 2 - 3 inches in diameter are hazardous to anyone walking in the area, as they present an unstable footing. The pecan tree has been stunted in its expected growth, and the roses and passion vines are declining in their growth. Any help or suggestions on dealing with this problem will be sincerely appreciated. Thank you in advance for any assistance you may be able to provide. KH From jameselizabeth@hotmail.com Sun, 27 Feb 2000 16:18:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 16:18:06 -0700 (MST) From: jameselizabeth@hotmail.com jameselizabeth@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant strawberries? Can you offer anymore information on planting and upkeeping strawberries for the Gilbert area? From birdpuccio@aol.com Sun, 27 Feb 2000 18:08:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 18:08:05 -0700 (MST) From: birdpuccio@aol.com birdpuccio@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have a year old Jacaranda, it has lots of branches from the ground up. i want it to have two truncks if possible, so should i just trim the ones that are above the ground and keep the single one at the base? I definitely need to trim it but i am not sure where. any recommendations would help.Thanks From HAMMONS@aol.com Sun, 27 Feb 2000 12:15:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 12:15:23 -0700 (MST) From: HAMMONS@aol.com HAMMONS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for information about appropriate watering for home landscaping in the Tatum Highlands area so we can set our drip system for shrubs, citrus, palms and flowers. This is sent to you February 27th. Thanks for any info you can give me. From Dfgray31@aol.com Sat, 26 Feb 2000 20:31:47 EST Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 20:31:47 EST From: Dfgray31@aol.com Dfgray31@aol.com Subject: [AG] ground squirrels I have one resident ground squirrel in my back yard. I wouldn't mind so much except that he steals the fruit from my plum tree. Is it legal to poison them in California? I have no pets or small children around the house so poison bait in itself would not be dangerous. If I can poison him (or them), wwhat is the bvest material to use? Can use one use gopher bait? Thank you. Daniel F. Gray, M.D. dfgray31@aol.com From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 28 Feb 2000 10:27:43 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 10:27:43 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Venomous Critter Conference --=====================_8241347==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Samaritan Regional Poison Center Venomous Critter Conference March 24, 2000 9:00 am - 5:00 pm Arizona Game & Fish 7200 E. University Mesa, AZ This program is designed specifically for those who teach about desert critters. Come join us to update your information, share information with others and participate in discussions about venomous critters of the southwest. Presentations and Discussions about: Scorpions Spiders Rattlesnakes Bees etc! etc! etc! Registration: No Charge Contact: Ann-Marie Krueger Phone: 602-239-2345 Fax: 602-239-4138 email: amkrueger@samaritan.com Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_8241347==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

Samaritan Regional Poison Center
Venomous Critter Conference
March 24, 2000
9:00 am - 5:00 pm
Arizona Game & Fish
7200 E. University
Mesa, AZ

This program is designed specifically for those who teach about desert critters. Come join us to update your information, share information with others and participate in discussions about venomous critters of the southwest.

Presentations and Discussions about:
Scorpions Spiders
Rattlesnakes Bees
etc! etc! etc!

Registration: No Charge

Contact: Ann-Marie Krueger

Phone: 602-239-2345
Fax: 602-239-4138
email: amkrueger@samaritan.com

Carol Noyes

Administrative Secretary

Maricopa County

Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086 Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_8241347==_.ALT-- From tdmoffett@juno.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:27:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:27:08 -0700 (MST) From: tdmoffett@juno.com tdmoffett@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to grow a vegetable garden and have done a LOT of reading to educate myself. My dilemma is where to put it. we have a 2 story house with the yard east of the house. The three spots I have to choose from include: 1. A square 11x11 next to the south fence of the yard. Currently this area is 1/2 shaded by the fence until 12:00ish and 1/3 shaded till 3:30, then 1/4 shaded til sunset. I am not leaning towards using this area at all. 2. A 24ft long strip next to the south wall of my house that comes out 5ft from the house. (I will use the square foot gardening so it wont be too shallow for 4x4 squares) The problem here is ALL DAY sun, the hot wall, the new concrete slab recently poured nearby. At about 5-ish it gets mostly shaded from the garage that sticks out from the house on the west side. 3. A 10 wide x 16 long (length runs north/south) area on the east side of my house, and also on the north end(against the north fence of the yard) and west end of my backyard. I thought this would be the best because it's bigger and near the water hose, but shade from the house starts creeping up at 11:30-12:00 and by 12:30 1/2 -2/3 is shaded, by 1:30 is almost all shaded. I know veggies need 6-8 hours of shade but I also know as the days go by and the sun gets higher there would be less shade. I want to plant soon (like yesterday) and plan on tomatoes, peppers, herbs, cantaloupe, watermelon, summer squash- using the square foot method in order to use the most of my space and not overwhelm us with too much produce. I really appreciate any help. This is a great service you provide! From jcp.provo@mindspring.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 13:57:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 13:57:42 -0700 (MST) From: jcp.provo@mindspring.com jcp.provo@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hi! would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can, when should i. also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9?? thanx!! From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:25:42 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 17:25:42 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Strawberries in the low desert The best time to plant strawberries in our area is in the fall. I found out the hard way about planting strawberries in the spring. They just don't have the chance to get established before the summer heat arrives. We have a very good publication available for $1.00 from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. You can send your request for publication 8665 - Strawberries for Home Gardens, along with $1.00 to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85040 or you can drop in and just ask for a copy - free. It contains information on when to plant, recommended varieties and site selection and soil preparation and even problems that you may encounter and what to do about them. Sue Bass Master Gardener jameselizabeth@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > When is the best time to plant strawberries? > Can you offer anymore information on planting > and upkeeping strawberries for the Gilbert > area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:41:30 EST Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:41:30 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape irrigation Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From ebenware@juno.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:59:29 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:59:29 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Vegetable Garden Location Several ideas... - Are these shade times what you are observing now, or during the growth season? Six hours of sun is what is required for any crop at any time of year. More difficult with winter's shadows, but I don't see any cold weather veges in your list. - Have you considered crop rotation? Keeping the same type of vegetable (tomatos and peppers are in the same type of cateory, for example) in the same area year to year reinforces the pests (nemotodes and powdery mildew, among others). You have enough crops you can rotate each year except some of the herbs. - How long do you intend to stay in this house? It would be scientific to rotate the garden from one spot to the next year to year; you could find the best location through experimentation. The other beds, you could plant annual flowers. - What about shade cloth for the tomatos? Is there one of the spots where it will be unsightly to you or the other house occupants? - About the area close to house and cement, and fence? Those area put more lime into the soil; our soil has a high alkaline content already. The only way to know if this is OK is to try. - My final vote, if one location is selected, would be the one that is: 1. Closest to the kitchen, so you see the goodies you can use while preparing foods 2. Closest to the water, as getting the hose over to the plants can be a turn off Any of the locations will be OK with 6 hours of sun and proper soil preparation. Happy Gardening! Edna Benware Maricopa County Master Gardener On Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:27:08 -0700 (MST) tdmoffett@juno.com writes: > arid_gardener > I want to grow a vegetable garden and have done a LOT of reading to > educate myself. My dilemma is where to put it. we have a 2 story > house with the yard east of the house. The three spots I have to > choose from include: > 1. A square 11x11 next to the south fence of the yard. Currently > this area is 1/2 shaded by the fence until 12:00ish and 1/3 shaded > till 3:30, then 1/4 shaded til sunset. > I am not leaning towards using this area at all. > 2. A 24ft long strip next to the south wall of my house that comes > out 5ft from the house. (I will use the square foot gardening so it > wont be too shallow for 4x4 squares) The problem here is ALL DAY > sun, the hot wall, the new concrete slab recently poured nearby. At > about 5-ish it gets mostly shaded from the garage that sticks out > from the house on the west side. > > 3. A 10 wide x 16 long (length runs north/south) area on the east > side of my house, and also on the north end(against the north fence > of the yard) and west end of my backyard. I thought this would be > the best because it's bigger and near the water hose, but shade from > the house starts creeping up at 11:30-12:00 and by 12:30 1/2 -2/3 is > shaded, by 1:30 is almost all shaded. I know veggies need 6-8 hours > of shade but I also know as the days go by and the sun gets higher > there would be less shade. > I want to plant soon (like yesterday) and plan on tomatoes, > peppers, herbs, cantaloupe, watermelon, summer squash- using the > square foot method in order to use the most of my space and not > overwhelm us with too much produce. I really appreciate any help. > This is a great service you provide! > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dolsontree@hotmail.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:16:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:16:45 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page it sounds like it could be ash leaf curl aphid. if you take a leaf and uncurl it,you will see little aphids under the silky material.you can use a systemic insecticide like acephate,or let the tree defend itself by defoliating and sprouting new leaves. i've done this before and the tree was fine. ;-) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 8:42 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I am having trouble with a mature Rio Grande Ash tree. Last spring, it had very poor foliage when it becgan to leaf out. The leaves were curled and had sort of a cottony web or cocoon substance on the backs. I have also noticed some sap leakage on several limbs. Last spring, we sprayed the tree with copper sulfate and fertilized with minerals and watered it deeply. This did not help. Last fall, some landscape guys applied medicine into the trunk. I didn't think it would help at the time of the year, but they were persuasive. I did receive a suggestion of applying Ortho Rose defense granuals in the spring at the onset of the leafing out and watering deeply. Do you think this will help? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:58:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:58:53 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page the only thing i can think of, is calling a pestcontrol company. or,building a raised planter with chickenwire at the bottom. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:08 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull! Thank you > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From dolsontree@hotmail.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 21:25:23 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 21:25:23 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Roses with abnormal blossoms could it be thrios or rose chafers? they cause deformation of flowers. ;-) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 2:43 PM Subject: [AG] Roses with abnormal blossoms > arid_gardener > My rose blossoms also exhibit the same symptoms you describe of a stubby > appearance with a flat top, and I have been blaming it on the weather > conditions because every year the blooms that develop much earlier than > normal are substandard. I've theorized that the low soil temperatures this > time of year probably contribute to lack of normal bloom growth. I would not > be concerned about this problem unless it continues when the roses come into > full bloom. As to where to obtain boron, you need to find a nursery that > stocks a micro nutrient fertilizer that contains boron. > Good luck. Rod > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From scott@xeriscapeNM.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:08:57 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:08:57 -0700 From: scott varner scott@xeriscapeNM.com Subject: [AG] NM Xeriscape Conference 2000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A7453B510FD59483DB2FD974 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again - I'm hoping you can again help promote the Xeriscape Council of NM's Conference - to be held this year 20-21 October at the Abq Convention Center. Plans are pretty well in place now and we have just confirmed our keynoter - Sandra Postel, Director of the Global Water Project in Amherst, Mass., and author of LAST OASIS: FACING WATER SCARCITY. As you may recall, her book was used as the basis for the last segment of the tv series on the Cadillac Desert. Please let me know of others I could contact and I hope you can advertise the dates in newsletters. Updates will be added to our site at http//www.xeriscapenm.com Please let me know if you want additional info and hope you can make it to Abq in October. Thanks/Scott --------------A7453B510FD59483DB2FD974 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="scott.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for scott varner Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="scott.vcf" begin:vcard n:Varner;Scott x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:Xeriscape Council of NM adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:scott@xeriscapenm.com title:VP/Treas fn:Scott end:vcard --------------A7453B510FD59483DB2FD974-- From scott@xeriscapeNM.com Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:37:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 15:37:14 -0700 From: scott varner scott@xeriscapeNM.com Subject: [AG] NM Xeriscape Conference 2000 --=====================_5917559==_ Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Another year has gone by and the Xeriscape Council of NM is completing plans for the Xeriscape Conference 2000 - 20-21 October at the Abq Convention Center. Once again I hope you will help us promote this Conference by getting the dates in various newsletters. If you know of others I should contact, please let me know. We just received confirmation that out keynote speaker will be Sandra Postel, Director of the Global Water Project in Amherst, Mass., and author of Last Oasis: Facong Water Scarcity - the book that was used as the basis for the closing segment in the tv series on The Cadillac Desert. I look forward to hearing from you and please let me know of others to contact. Scott --=====================_5917559==_ Content-Type: application/mac-binhex40; name="scott.vcf" Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="scott.vcf" (This file must be converted with BinHex 4.0) :#A0MEh4d,RCMCJ"849K8G(4iG!!!!!!!U`!!!!#pFf*PCfPZ1RCMBA*N)!eZ1PC KFQjPFMY6BfpdG!ei,@e[HQPXE'%YD(4YE$T'38a643e[FQFk@'9bDA0MBA"P)%0 [G@jMD@`JEfBJ6Nd0B@4b1MXl1cXl1`efCA*cD@pZ1M)Z-3ePE@&TE$YTER4PFQj PG$TcBfpdG%"iCA*TFf0KF'9ZE5jMEfd0G'PdE'8k9P![9(*PBA-0CQik8f0[G(3 0C@jN1RCMBA*N$G@-!!!!: --=====================_5917559==_-- From MAndrewJohnson@gateway.net Tue, 29 Feb 2000 01:57:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 01:57:16 -0700 (MST) From: MAndrewJohnson@gateway.net MAndrewJohnson@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you help me find advantages of having gravel front and back yards in place of the grass that seems to be so popular here in Phoenix? I would like to know how much water they consume and how much is actually saved. Thank you for your time. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:52:00 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:52:00 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Locating Publications in Library I had thought that by asking for the University of Arizona, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, Home Horticulture publications that most librarians would be able to locate them in the reference section. I believed them to be in a large multi-ring binder. What did you ask for? In the meantime, the one you want is online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf Linda Guy Master Gardener doryvan@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > A recent answer on the arid_gardener mentioned a publication, > "AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus", that could be found in the Public Library Reference Section. > > Called the Acacia Branch, the Main Phoenix Public Library, (Telephone Reference and Government Documents), AZ State Library and ASU Reference Library. > > No one knows what I am talking about. Where can I find the publication "AZ 1001, Low Desert Citrus"? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:57:49 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 08:57:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Plants for Northern Exposure If you will wade through the first half of a reply I already provided to another gardener, you will see some other suggestions for your northern exposure issue. Good luck! http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-February/000685.html Linda Guy Master Gardener tabeauaz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Any suggestions on perrienals to plant that will do well in a shady norhern exposure? Ones that do not require alot of water also. Thanks, Diane > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:13:30 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:13:30 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning a Young Jacaranda Given what I see of the jacarandas in our neighborhood, they are tall trees (to 30-35 feet) on single trunks. I don't believe it would lend itself well to a multi-cane situation which I believe is what you are asking [two trunks]. Select a cane that you would like to use as the leader or trunk. The other canes will need to be removed, but we do not recommend eliminating more than 1/3 of the live canopy in a given year. This process will therefore take a little while to accomplish. Once you feel you have an established canopy, the watersprouts or suckers which shoot from the base and which usually use more energy than they return to the tree are best removed as soon as it is obvious that they are growing. Linda Guy Master Gardener birdpuccio@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > i have a year old Jacaranda, it has lots of branches from the ground up. i want it to have two truncks if possible, so should i just trim the ones that are above the ground and keep the single one at the base? I definitely need to trim it but i am not sure where. any recommendations would help.Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:38:01 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 09:38:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Drying Herbs Culinary herbs (as contrasted with a crafting use) are best when fresh, then, in my opinion, next best when frozen. But I do dry many of my culinary herbs, too, though not all herbs are great candidates for drying. [The ones I tend to freeze rather than dry are parsley, cilantro, tarragon, dill, mints and the like. After rinsing, I put them on a cookie sheet to freeze, them store them in freezer bags. They'll lose color, maybe blacken from some enzymatic action, but will taste flavorful.] A key point for culinary use will be how you harvest. Gather tender, vegetative tips, avoiding stems tipped with flowers which tends to diminish flavor. The best window of time for harvesting is early morning just after the dew dries or dusk when plants recover their crispness. Then they should be rinsed, and rinsed, and rinsed. At the Herb Association, it's been said you should be able to drink the rinse water when the herbs are cleaned! This process uses alot of water, which I always try to recycle on outdoor plants rather than let it go down the drain. If you have a large amount, air drying is the best process. Flavor is best maintained if you they are left in a well-ventilated (promotes faster drying) dark area. Try the difference between sun-dried basil or that dried in a closet! I don't usually air dry herbs outdoors for this reason, and because they get very dusty. Even in the house, dust can settle, so store your herbs as soon as you feel they are dried adequately. Herbs can be tied in small bunches and hung upside down so that the oils descend to the head. If dust is a problem you can hang them within a paper sack, but this obviously impacts ventilation and lengthens drying time a bit. Small batches can be dried in low-heat ovens (100-110). An old gas stove with just the pilot light on may be sufficient to the task. However, dry them too fast and the outer surface will be hard while the inside is still moist. You'll also evaporate the volatile or essential oils which give the herbs their flavor and aroma. I understand that people also use microwaves, but I have never tried this. Dehydrators are also good for very small batches. Just remember to dry the water off the herbs before using ovens or dehydrators. Finally, you will preserve more taste if you store your dried herbs in large pieces. Don't crumble them until you are ready to toss them in your recipe. Again, more of the essential oils will be retained, rather than risk being evaporated. I personally use a stacking sweater drying rack system to air dry may large quantities of herbs. I also don't need to worry about removing the water first. I purchased these years ago in a Lillian Vernon mail-order catalog, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are available in the laundry implements section of Target/KMart/Walmart or the likes. Good luck! Linda Guy R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > what is the best method for drying herbs? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Tue Feb 1 02:23:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:23:19 -0700 (MST) From: fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in a fertilization chart for citrus trees. What to apply, when, and how much. These are newly planted trees. From abayha@msad71.net Tue Feb 1 15:33:28 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 08:33:28 -0700 (MST) From: abayha@msad71.net abayha@msad71.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. From hteckhoff@aol.com Tue Feb 1 19:06:29 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:06:29 -0700 (MST) From: hteckhoff@aol.com hteckhoff@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. H. From charmain@ctaz.com Tue Feb 1 19:58:04 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:58:04 -0700 (MST) From: charmain@ctaz.com charmain@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Lake Havasu City and I am very interested in a fairly new variety of Navel Orange called Cara Cara for my home garden. Where may these trees be purchased? They are considered excellent for growing in our low desert but I cannot find them. Please help. From dmkerr@dancris.com Wed Feb 2 01:33:57 2000 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:33:57 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size = of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of = the head. What can I do to stop this? ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are = bolting. The=20 heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow = flowers=20 forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop=20 this?

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0-- From jdoucet@futureone.com Thu Feb 3 16:08:55 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) From: jdoucet@futureone.com jdoucet@futureone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the best varities of tomato plants for this area. From brederick@uswest.net Thu Feb 3 00:41:57 2000 Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:57 -0700 (MST) From: brederick@uswest.net brederick@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an Arizona Sweet Orange tree which has a new problem. I have found 3 or 4 oranges with a hole near the bottom. The hole ranges from about the size of a "BB" to .4" diameter. Around the hole are small larvae which look like the things you find in wheat or cereal when it gets wormey. Do you have any idea what these are? I have never had them before. Is there anything I should do other than pick the fruit and trash-can it? Thanks for the help. Bob Rederick From slimjimwin@uswest.net Thu Feb 3 17:14:20 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:14:20 -0700 (MST) From: slimjimwin@uswest.net slimjimwin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently bought my first house and have never had a garden or planted grass or even had a plant. My question is a basic one. I want to have a lawn in my backyard but I am not sure where to start. Do I just throw out the seed and pray, or is there something I can do to prep the ground? Any help you can give me I would appreciate. From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu Feb 3 20:12:23 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:12:23 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato varieties for Phx Hi there: For what it's worth...we have had pretty good luck with Early Girls and excellent results with Sweet 100s (a cherry tomato) here in the Phoenix area. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 1 >Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) >From: jdoucet@futureone.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >What are the best varities of tomato plants >for this area. > Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 21:22:15 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:22:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overtilling Soil I don't find specific mention of this in our Home Horticulture publications. But my sense [and perhaps residual from my old days in 4-H] is that yes, it is possible to overwork your soil. I read something recently in the Gardens Alive! catalog that suggests that everytime we till, we destroy a natural network of microbes that is present. HOWEVER, our soil just cries for organic material and we need to get it into the soil once or twice a year at a minimum. So, I believe you are doing your soil a great justice with your current semi-annual practice. The presence of earthworms is a testament! [You will see more of them in the winter when they are closer to the surface; they retreat from the heat in the summer.] And no, you don't get two live earthworms when you cut one in half! Just be sure the soil is dried out enough (just moist) when you till. You can ruin the soil texture by working it when it is too wet. Linda Guy Master Gardener henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to overtill (rototiller) a patch of ground set aside for gardening someday? I till in composted leaves,etc. every 5-6 months just to keep my tiller operational. I do find lots of earthworms when I do the tilling. How often can I till my gardening area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 21:34:29 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:34:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Composting Links available from our own website are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost We have a publication Q230 Make Your Own Compost which is not, unfortunately, on line. You can view a copy at the local library in the reference section which has all our Home Horticulture publications. Copies are available at our office (free if you drop in) else send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Many local municipal solid waste management departments support home composting by giving away free [or for a nominal fee] compost bins and manuals. Contact yours to see if this program is available. If not, the cities of Phoenix and Chandler do so, though I'm not sure if you need to be a resident. Finally, SRP's Environmental Services area (602/236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one; they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting efforts, too. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jjewett@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you send me some links, or information about composting. I have an idea how the process works, but not the details. I love to garden, and am frustrated by the soil around my house. Any ideas on how I can improve the situation? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 21:43:59 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:59 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family, It's been an unusually balmy winter and most cool season crops are performing as they would more reasonably be expected to do in March when the days warm in a more typical pattern. I don't consider your broccoli's activity unusual: we consume what are the flower buds and they are doing what they do naturally which is produce pretty yellow flowers. The answer is to share the broccoli with your neighbors, find every conceivable recipe for broccoli you can, or learn how to freeze it. As to its size, my personal experience suggests that the variety is key. Not all varieties sold in the nurseries produce heads the size of those in the grocery store, nor do they all have high yielding side shoots. Unfortunately, I just ran to the garden and the grackles have carried away this year's broccoli marker, otherwise I'd have shared the name of the best performer I've had in years. I too am eating a ton of broccoli these recent weeks! Cut those heads and see what your side shoots will begin bearing. I suppose you could also experiment with a very light shade cloth...but I suspect the plants have started the blooming cycle and you may not be able to back track. Eat hearty! Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the > size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the > base of the head. What can I do to stop this? --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family,

Eat hearty!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop this?

--------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7-- From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 21:50:50 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Hummingbird gardens Salvias, penstemons, zauschnerias, fairy dusters (calliandras), aloes, mallows, lavenders...I could go on and on. Better than that, I'll direct you to our online publication whose chart not only shows which flowers are apt to attract these delightful little critters, but also what time of the year the plants bloom so you can have year round color! It's AZ1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Have fun! Linda Guy Master Gardener jerrymarkell@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Am starting a hummingbird garden in Mesa would > like a list of plants for a drip irrigated > area to attract hummingbirds for our enjoyment > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 21:53:28 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:53:28 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis You're way out of my league! But do try a few of these fun sites: www.howstuffworks.com howthingswork.virginia.edu www.madsci.org Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener sprchal@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > hi! > i was wondering if you knew how atrazine > effects photosynthesis? if not, do you > know any site which could help me with > this bilogy question? > > thank you, > sarah prchal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 3 22:13:29 2000 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Soil Conditioning I may be old-fashioned, but I believe that Mother Nature is a powerful energy that can take care of herself well; quite well if we assist a bit. I've never been overly concerned about construction detritus....A few years back I converted a old common bermuda lawn, and turned up construction slag, nails, etc from when the house had been built in 1955. No real harm had seemed to come to any of the plant material, old or new. I'd start by raking out the big chunks of whatever is left, put in at least 4 to 6 inches of compost material and water very very well. Let the material cook in the soil at least two weeks before planting. For the kind of soil we have and the kind of gardening it appears you want to do, adding organic material is the single best thing you can do, besides leaching with water. I only use compost and basic organic fertilizers so I'm not familiar with OMNI. I do know that we don't often recommend gypsum, and you can read about it in our publication on nutrients at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1020.pdf Linda Guy Master Gardener ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have just recently had an old,plain block wall fence stuccoed and painted. Unfortunately this is an area where I plant flowers along it, in the Spring and the Fall.I didn't plant any flowers this past Fall, because I knew that we were going to do this project. But I would like to plant flowers again this Spring. I always amend my soil with OMNI, Bone Meal,and gypsum before planting my flowers. What I would like to know; Should I do anything else to the soil, since it has been exposed to all the cement and paint chemicals. Naturally, alot of that stuff gets watered into the soil.I hope that you have a suggestion.Thanks! h > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 4 00:27:43 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:27:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Starting a New Lawn Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf Grass @ http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/prep.html Good luck. Rodhttp://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From dblimke@msn.com Fri Feb 4 02:13:16 2000 Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:13:16 -0700 (MST) From: dblimke@msn.com dblimke@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page where do you start with a area that has no grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Feb 4 22:35:24 2000 Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 15:35:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Starting a new yard from scratch Hello! And Welcome to Arizona! We moved here from Illinois about five years ago and while I love it, gardening here felt like gardening on the moon to me at first! Which is why I enrolled in the Master Gardener program. The course gave me a good foundation for gardening in the low desert and enabled to share what I have learned with others. That said, may I recommend a book that I find very useful? It is the Sunset Western Garden Book and it can be found at most nurseries, garden centers and home centers such as Home Depot. The first section of the book is a Plant Selection Guide and is broken down into categories such as: "Plants to use near swimming pools" which was one of your questions. Its great - it lists trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, perennials. Nice photos and it directs you to the plant encyclopedia section for details about each plant. It also has a good section on watering techniques, which is crucial information for this area. If you haven't done so already, please take a look at our web site: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ You can find a lot of useful information here including a Timely Tips section which is a month by month calendar for gardening, an archive of past questions asked regarding Landscape problems, and be sure to check out our events calendar! In March the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension service will be presenting the Basic Desert Gardening Series, a series of classes useful to anyone new to the valley. For more information on these courses you may contact Lori Thompson at (602) 470-8086, ext. 309. Finally, my husband and I visited the Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum to familiarize ourselves with low desert plants. We got ideas for trees, shrubs and plants that we wanted to incorporate into our yard. Then we interviewed several landscapers before deciding on the one we wanted to work with. We looked for someone who was willing to work with our ideas and fine tune them into a workable plan. I hope this helps. Maybe some of my colleagues will have more information that will help. Good Luck to you! Don't let the idea of creating a brand new landscape scare you. Just take it a step at a time, get ideas of what you like and it can be a lot of fun. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer cadblimke@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > where do you start with a area that has no > grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to > run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 5 00:05:25 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:05:25 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape and pool planing If your future plans call for a pool I would suggest that you contact a pool company for a layout and find out what part of your yard will be affected by the construction equipment required to build your pool. You could then have a landscaper give you a design that would be the least affected when you do build the pool. There is loads of information on the project you are about to undertake in the Master Gardener Manual which is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Sat Feb 5 01:16:50 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:16:50 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis Concerning the question about ATRAZINE and how it affects photosynthesis.. ATRAZINE is a carbon based compound found inherbicides and some pesticides (for ants and some slugs). Obviously, as an herbicide to kill unwanted plants and vegetation, it disrupts the photosynthetic cycle of a plant, resulting in eventual death. If you go to the web and search for ATRAZINE, many sites are revealed that can further discourse beyond my immediate knowledge. I do know that there are groundwater issues revolving aroung this chemical as a major pollutant. This was a good question and I hope the lead proves interesting. From pfhagen1@uswest.com Sat Feb 5 00:51:41 2000 Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (MST) From: pfhagen1@uswest.com pfhagen1@uswest.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are starting a new garden. Is there a list of vegetable varieties available that do well in Arizona? We are located in New River, AZ, elevation approximately 1,350'. We'd like to be able to print out some information or have it sent to us. Happy gardening, may God bless us with good weather! From Tabeauaz@aol.com Sat Feb 5 22:52:38 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0700 (MST) From: Tabeauaz@aol.com Tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, these maybe stupid questions, so bare with me- are in-door ficus trees decidious? My recently acquired one is shedding it's leaves like crazy. And, is it possible to take clippings from ivy plants and wandering jews and start new plants( will they grow roots in water and /or how do I successfully go about this? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 6 01:32:26 2000 Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:26 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus Tree shedding leaves It is not uncommon for Ficus benjamina trees to drop their leaves when moved or subjected to a change of temperature. Wandering Jew is quite easy to start from cuttings; I've simply put the cuttings in a container of water. You can also put the cutting in a container of potting soil that you keep moist, they root quite fast. I've not tried the Ivy but it should work the same. Good luck. Rod From zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Sun Feb 6 19:11:09 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST) From: zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. From tigre@theriver.com Sun Feb 6 19:18:48 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:18:48 -0700 (MST) From: tigre@theriver.com tigre@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page how to prune roses? From ebdive2@aol.com Sun Feb 6 21:17:38 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:17:38 -0700 (MST) From: ebdive2@aol.com ebdive2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Can you please name 3(if there are that many) desert trees which grow rapidly and can do so with no supplemental watering; if it needs a week or so of h2o to begin, that is possible. Thank you for any help you can provide. Elizabeth From cjscountry@aol.com Sun Feb 6 23:29:02 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 16:29:02 -0700 (MST) From: cjscountry@aol.com cjscountry@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to know how to best prepare a vegetable garden, specifically fertilizing (best type and procedure). Thanks much! From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Feb 7 16:40:32 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:40:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Lettuce Seedlings Hi Suzanne, It could be that you simply planted the lettuce seed too early in the fall, when lettuce still thinks its summer out. Lettuce usually requires cooler soil temps as well as air temps. Your experience of produce being rejuvenated late winter is common; in fact it is a bit early given our particularly balmy winter. Most of the cool season crops go into a pseudo suspended animation when the sun gets low and temps drop, reviving as the sun rises on the horizon bringing springtime. I personally have had poor carrot experiences. For our clay soils, short blunt nosed varieties are said to be the best. A fellow gardener at Az Herb Assn once shared that he added lots of amendments to loosen up the soil for the particular portion of the bed that was for carrots (higher percentage of organic material and even some fine gravel/pumice, as I have for plants like herbs, to improve compaction and drainage). Linda Guy Master Gardener Suzanne Castillo wrote: > Hi Linda, > > Because I started my garden in the summer, I had a lot of problems with "things" eating my seedlings, so I went out to a fabric store and > bought some cheap netting and covered all my beds. This helped. I did the same for the fall, but my carrots never germinated and my greens > started to come in but never got past the two leaf stage. They held on for a long time and then finally died off. Now after almost a month > and a half my radishes and carrots have all of a sudden decided to come up?? I am trying to hang in there, but it is hard. Any suggestions > to get my greens going better? > > Thank you for responding to my e-mail. > > Suzanne > > ps: my two oldest kids 5 &4 love the process and my 11 mo. just loves the dirt, so for them I almost can't stop (smile) > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > Dear Mommy of 3 (how neat!) > > > > Have you watched the activity in your garden? Are you experiencing a lot of birds, who love those darling seedlings? Seems like you are > > otherwise doing well, since your germination rate is so good. How about other critters chomping at them? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > mommyof3@home.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase > > > why? They stayed like this for months. > > > > > > 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Feb 7 16:51:51 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:51:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Fertilizer Schedule We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public library. If you want to order it, instructions are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I am interested in a fertilization chart > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Feb 7 16:56:26 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:56:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Human Biomass Requirements I've given out these websites before for questions like yours. They come in handy when our seventh grader ponders the cosmos! My other thought would be to connect with the Biosphere in Oracle, Arizona. If anyone knows how much biomass is required per human, they should. www.madsci.org howthingswork.virginia.edu www.howstuff works.com www.wsu.edu/druniverse Linda Guy Master Gardener I abayha@msad71.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Feb 7 17:04:31 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:04:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Citrus Young trees are pruned sparingly, removing sucker dead limbs are also removed. Allow a young tree to grow a few seasons before trying to achieve symmetry, which it will with age. If you take off the leaves that fuel the tree's production capability, you're limiting your crop. Wait until frost threat is gone and spring growth commences to prune. Pruning mature citrus is more a matter of aesthetics. They require little, other than removing dead wood and thinning inside shoot growth. Again, eliminate all suckers below the bud union. Linda Guy Master Gardener hteckhoff@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. > H. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Ljames1375@aol.com Mon Feb 7 03:37:06 2000 Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) From: Ljames1375@aol.com Ljames1375@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? Thank you Laurel From goldnanc@aol.com Mon Feb 7 18:10:41 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) From: goldnanc@aol.com goldnanc@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Feb 7 20:27:44 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to this. So I am forwarding to the list. Sue --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Goldnanc@aol.com Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the list managers, see your request. If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your email address. When you send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have immediate access to the collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. Many lists allow only those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it will just need approval. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer . Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > > Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > can't get the information thru you. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 7 22:11:01 2000 Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared in the Arizona Republic recently. It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From mmardick@brg.com Mon Feb 7 22:40:31 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Carnations Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From mmardick@brg.com Mon Feb 7 22:43:26 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Roses I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From emardick@brg.com Mon Feb 7 22:48:57 2000 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 15:52:47 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as particularly well adapted: Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, Celebrity, Red Express, Champion and Patio I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection for container gardening, I'm told. Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate (fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What are the best varities of tomato plants > for this area. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 16:06:10 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. Linda Guy Master Gardener greygoat@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 16:17:51 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check out the listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for the month in question. May is the time to start lawns http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm Ella Mardick wrote: > arid_gardener > When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 16:31:26 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf You can review what the plant material looks like at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm And for more reference material on design, you can use http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy your parts from them. Linda Guy Master Gardener mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > > My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > > Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > > Thank you for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 16:49:03 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. Linda Guy Master Gardener gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mmardick@brg.com Tue Feb 8 19:21:12 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:21:12 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they= grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea= rose bushes. At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu >You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > >arid_gardener digest > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > >--__--__-- > >Message: 1 >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) >From: Ljames1375@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you= tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this= grass for AZ? > >Thank you > >Laurel > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) >From: goldnanc@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. = There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. = Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with= something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? =20 > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >boundary=3D"------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to >this. So I am forwarding to the list. >Sue > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: message/rfc822 >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Content-Disposition: inline > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >Message-ID: <<389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) >X-Accept-Language: en >MIME-Version: 1.0 >To: Goldnanc@aol.com >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener >References: < >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note= and >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has= been >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include= such >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non= subscribers and >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve= it >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information.= The >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we,= the >list managers, see your request. > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the= address >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid= Gardener. > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to= your >email address. When you >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you= have >immediate access to the >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the= list. >Many lists allow only >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as= soon as >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. = Please >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your= question, it >will just need approval. > >Sincerely, >Sue Bass >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > . >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which= was >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with= e-mails. >> >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route= if I >> can't get the information thru you. > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 4 >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST >To: tigre@theriver.com >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which= appeared=20 >in the Arizona Republic recently. >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes= =20 >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of=20 >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed= =20 >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms=20 >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing =20 >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too= =20 >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base= of=20 >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an= =20 >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every= year.=20 >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by= supplying=20 >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty= =20 >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned= =20 >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and= the=20 >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best=20 >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and= crossing=20 >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to= =20 >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of= the=20 >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice= =20 >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and=20 >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes= grow=20 >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an= open=20 >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work= =20 >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center= of=20 >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest= from=20 >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store= up=20 >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth.=20 > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for= =20 >the bush to start growing again. > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune= earlier=20 >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for= the=20 >bush to turn around. > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller= =20 >areas to prune) > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union.= =20 >This also encourages new basal breaks) > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This= =20 >will prevent cane borers. > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to= dip=20 >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > =20 >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a=20 >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for= =20 >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush..= Leave=20 >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This= method=20 >is best for the average garden.=20 > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few= =20 >large long stemmed blooms of show quality.=20 > > HYBRID TEAS > =20 > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut= =20 >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle,= sloping=20 >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other= =20 >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes= =20 >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the= crown.=20 >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new= =20 >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes=20 >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the= bud=20 >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed.= =20 >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the=20 >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This= will=20 >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This= =20 >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the= =20 >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy= =20 >canes. Remove 1/3 to =BD of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > FLORIBUNDA > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are= more=20 >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes= =20 >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes,= =20 >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3= of=20 >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > GRANDIFLORAS > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > MINIATURES > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to =BD= of=20 >the bush. > > SHRUBS > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like= the=20 >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut= =20 >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences.= =20 >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned= during=20 >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any= dead=20 >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back= to=20 >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best= =20 >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6= =20 >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a=20 >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune= =20 >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut= out=20 >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. =20 >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the= =20 >soil around it with a good fungicide. >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > =20 > > PRUNING TIPS > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > Clean all debris from around the bush. > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane= =20 >borers. > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and= =20 >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the= soil. > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten= =20 >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the=20 >disease. > =20 > >--__--__-- > >Message: 5 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Carnations > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one= gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in= AZ? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 6 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Roses > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I= can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any= way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 7 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Ella Mardick < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >--__--__-- > >Message: 8 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: jdoucet@futureone.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as >particularly well adapted: > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > and Patio > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection >for container gardening, I'm told. > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> What are the best varities of tomato plants >> for this area. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 9 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: greygoat@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and= it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the= female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common= on >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You= might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies= since your trees are engulfed. > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly= review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and= recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect= these at >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E.= Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on= both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to= the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of= it? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 10 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: Ella Mardick < >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the >Master Gardener Manual at >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check >out the listing at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > >Ella Mardick wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 11 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself= why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication= on poolside landscaping at >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > >You can review what the plant material looks like at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library= therein based on your wants, needs and environment. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > >And for more reference material on design, you can use >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you= want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid,= transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even= the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials= chart for you for free if you buy >your parts from them. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design= services. >> >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our= backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone= to lay out the design plan for us. >> >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the= design service. >> >> Thank you for your assistance. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 12 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: gordieFS@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid= defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and= not try to simply water it in. > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a= very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone.= Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10= inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in= February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit= before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March.= Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of= the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or= brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus= fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I= watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could= over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there= anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for= your help!! >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H= E L E M= A R D I C K B= L A I N 8080,0000,8080B= 8080,0000,8080USINESS= RESOURCE= GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From ALNorris@aol.com Tue Feb 8 19:59:43 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:59:43 EST From: ALNorris@aol.com ALNorris@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris Over The Garden Gate - TRN From heseig@msn.com Tue Feb 8 16:41:09 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: heseig@msn.com heseig@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help!! This is the 2nd year our cirus trees lemon,orange& grapefruit have had their leaves turn yellow right from early stage ( almost speckled looking) then thetips turn brown and then fall off. fruit is sparse but still on the limbs. Ar first we thought it was because of not enough water but we changed to more and that didn't help. We thought maybe because we didn't fertilize but that didn't help. The people we lived here before had their gray water from the washing machine going to the trees do you think that helped or hurt the trees? We get new leaves and blossoms but when fall/winter comes the trees are barren of leaves. 1 young tree has not been affected!! Any suggestions? Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Feb 8 20:11:45 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:45 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Al: Here is the web site for the Maricopa County Master Gardeners: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer ALNorris@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web > site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris HREF="http://www.overthegardengate.org/">Over The Garden Gate - TRN > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cherrijw@juno.com Tue Feb 8 18:12:56 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:12:56 -0700 (MST) From: cherrijw@juno.com cherrijw@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to plant a lemon tree, but am not sure what type does best in Phoenix. We have an irrigated lot that faces south. Any suggestions would be appreciated. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 8 22:12:49 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:12:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Hi Michele, We are just a few Master Gardener volunteers doing the responses. You are among the most recent querents in my inbox of about 25 unanswered questions. You are not forgotten, but sometimes it will be up to a week before we are able to research and respond to a question that we don't already know stone-cold because of our training and/or personal gardening experiences. Hang with us! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea rose bushes. > > At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >You can reach the person managing the list at > > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than > >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > > > >arid_gardener digest > > > >Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 1 > >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) > >From: Ljames1375@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? > > > >Thank you > > > >Laurel > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 2 > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) > >From: goldnanc@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 3 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >boundary="------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" > >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to > >this. So I am forwarding to the list. > >Sue > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: message/rfc822 > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Content-Disposition: inline > > > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 > >Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) > >X-Accept-Language: en > >MIME-Version: 1.0 > >To: Goldnanc@aol.com > >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener > >References: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and > >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming > >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been > >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such > >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and > >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it > >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The > >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the > >list managers, see your request. > > > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address > >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm > >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. > > > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your > >email address. When you > >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have > >immediate access to the > >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. > >Many lists allow only > >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > > > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as > >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please > >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it > >will just need approval. > > > >Sincerely, > >Sue Bass > >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > > > > . > >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > > > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > >> > >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > >> can't get the information thru you. > > > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 4 > >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST > >To: tigre@theriver.com > >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > > > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared > >in the Arizona Republic recently. > >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > > > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes > >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of > >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed > >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms > >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing > >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too > >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of > >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an > >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. > >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying > >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty > >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned > >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the > >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best > >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing > >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to > >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the > >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice > >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and > >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow > >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open > >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work > >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of > >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > > > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from > >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up > >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. > > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for > >the bush to start growing again. > > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier > >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the > >bush to turn around. > > > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller > >areas to prune) > > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. > >This also encourages new basal breaks) > > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This > >will prevent cane borers. > > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip > >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > > > >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a > >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for > >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave > >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method > >is best for the average garden. > > > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few > >large long stemmed blooms of show quality. > > > > HYBRID TEAS > > > > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut > >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping > >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other > >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes > >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. > >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new > >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes > >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud > >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. > >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the > >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will > >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This > >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the > >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy > >canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > > > FLORIBUNDA > > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more > >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes > >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, > >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of > >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > > > GRANDIFLORAS > > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > > > MINIATURES > > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of > >the bush. > > > > SHRUBS > > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the > >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut > >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. > >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during > >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead > >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to > >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best > >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 > >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a > >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune > >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out > >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS > >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. > >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the > >soil around it with a good fungicide. > >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > > > > > > PRUNING TIPS > > > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > > Clean all debris from around the bush. > > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane > >borers. > > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and > >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. > > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten > >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the > >disease. > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 5 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Carnations > > > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 6 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Roses > > > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 7 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: Ella Mardick > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 8 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: jdoucet@futureone.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > > > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as > >particularly well adapted: > > > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears > >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, > >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > > and Patio > > > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to > >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 > >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection > >for container gardening, I'm told. > > > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate > >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then > >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set > >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > > > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large > >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you > >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of > >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's > >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> What are the best varities of tomato plants > >> for this area. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 9 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: greygoat@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > > > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on > >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. > > > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at > >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 10 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: Ella Mardick > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months > >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the > >Master Gardener Manual at > >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > > > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn > >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check > >out the listing at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn > >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. > >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, > >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > > > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, > >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for > >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > > > >Ella Mardick wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 11 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > > > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > > > >You can review what the plant material looks like at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > > > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > > > >And for more reference material on design, you can use > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > > > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the > >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy > >your parts from them. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > >> > >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > >> > >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > >> > >> Thank you for your assistance. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 12 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: gordieFS@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > > > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. > > > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > > > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > > > > > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Feb 8 20:46:03 2000 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:46:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Carnations Michelle: Carnations can be grown here althought I have not done so myself. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book there are two distinct categories of Carnation, which are actually in the dianthus family. Dianthus caryophyllus. One is a border carnation, which I have seen at Home Depot, It is bushier and more compact than the second type, which is the Florist carnation. The border carnation grows to 12-14 in. high. Flowers 2 to 2-1/2 in wide, fragrant, are borne in profusion. Effective as shrub border edgings, in mixed flower border, and in containers. Some of the varieties listed are "Juliet" which makes compact, foot-tall clumps with long production of 2-1/2 in. scarlet flowers. "Luminette", 2 ft tall, is similar. Pixie Delight strain is also similar but includes full range of carnation colors. Knight series has strong stems, blooms in 5 months from seed; Bambino strain is a little slower to bloom. There is also a strain called simply, Hanging Mixed, with pink or red flowered plants that sprawl or hang from pot or window box. I would personally go with a container grown plant at this time of year because I think it would be tough for a new plant from seed to make it through the first summer. My book also states that Florists' carnations are grown commercially in green houses, outdoors in gardens in mild-winter areas. Greenhouse grown plants reach 4 ft, have fragrant flowers 3 in. wide in many colors. For large flowers, leave only terminal bloom on each stem, pinching out all other buds down to the fifth joint, below which new flowering stems will develop. Stake to prevent sprawling. Start with strong cuttings taken from the most vigorous plants of selected named varieties. I hope this is of some help to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Wed Feb 9 05:42:43 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) From: LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. Thanks From geek@inficad.com Wed Feb 9 00:17:12 2000 Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 17:17:12 -0700 (MST) From: geek@inficad.com geek@inficad.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tip Top refered me to you regarding the provision of a list of plants that are poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- tion, it would also be helpful to know symptoms I should note in a dog that has eatten a poisonous plant. Thanks. From Gregcm2@aol.com Wed Feb 9 21:11:02 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:11:02 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1.Can I do anything now to prevent aphids on my tomatoes and herbs? From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Feb 9 21:54:38 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:54:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening Classes As luck has it, there is JUST such a class for you this Saturday (2/12) at the Maricopa County Extension Office. You can check this and other possibilities on our Gardening Calendar at http://video2.agforbes.arizona.edu:8080/maricopa/ If this doesn't work for your schedule and you still want some information, write me back! Linda Guy Master Gardener LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET wrote: > arid_gardener > Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) > We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Wed Feb 9 20:19:38 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:19:38 -0700 (MST) From: royce.hicks@luke.af.mil royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do I need to fertilize the soil for planting Sunflowers in the Glendale area. Out here we have soil filled with rocks and sand? In other words what soil preperations are required for planting Sunflowers in the West Valley soil? Hicks From aanran@cybertrails.com Wed Feb 9 21:25:18 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:25:18 -0700 (MST) From: aanran@cybertrails.com aanran@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. Thanks for an answer!! From LChristini@aol.com Wed Feb 9 22:23:24 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:23:24 EST From: LChristini@aol.com LChristini@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost after planting a young ficus natida tree, a frost hit it, browning most of the top of the tree. New growth is coming in around the bottom of the tree, but not too much of the top. My concern is, should I cut back the top, or wait to see if will come around. I really don't want to cut the top back, afraid it will distort the shape of the tree. Any advice? From DaedalusCz@aol.com Wed Feb 9 18:41:44 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:41:44 -0700 (MST) From: DaedalusCz@aol.com DaedalusCz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to the area. We bought a house with an established garden. There are 4 Acacia Trees on the property. Each seem to be of a different species.All but one of them has retained their leaves thru the winter months.I have looked through a lists of Acacias and have only found one(The Sweet Acacia) that is listed as deciduos. I am certain that it is not that species. I broke off a twig and found it was still supple, but I am not sure that is not dying. The leaves began to fall after I changed the seasonal watering system. The other trees only partially shed. The tree is 20 feet tall and established for about 4 years.It had long 10" leaves, similar to my weeping acacia (the only one I could identify. Questions: Is this nothing to worry about, should I do something to insure its reblooming, or is it too late? Is there a way I can identify the species of my 4 trees, as each has a different shape and flower? From renior307@aol.com Wed Feb 9 17:18:34 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:18:34 -0700 (MST) From: renior307@aol.com renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior From barn@primenet.com Wed Feb 9 15:07:18 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:07:18 -0700 (MST) From: barn@primenet.com barn@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is it time to fertilize roses and what kind of fertilizer should I use? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Feb 9 23:25:09 2000 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:25:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poisonous Plants for Dogs I found a web site that you might find quite useful! As a pet owner, I did. The address is: http://www.healthypet.com/Library/prevent-12.html The page above has a comprehensive list of plants, household products, etc, along with codes that show what type of toxin they are (gastrointestinal, neurological, etc.) I think if you check out their entire site, they probably have lists of symptoms too or at least a link to where you can get that info. The address for the site in general is www.healthypet.com Sue Bass Master Gardener geek@inficad.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Tip Top refered me to you regarding the > provision of a list of plants that are > poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- > tion, it would also be helpful to know > symptoms I should note in a dog that has > eatten a poisonous plant. > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From paradiseoasis@uswest.net Wed Feb 9 23:40:56 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:40:56 -0700 (MST) From: paradiseoasis@uswest.net paradiseoasis@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant sunflower seed? Also I have a chilean mesquite tree that is about 5 years old and it hasn't grown at all since it's been planted. Is there something wrong with the tree or is it still adapting to it's environment? It loses its leaves in the winter and I usually cut back the frost damaged twiggs in the spring. It's planted on the SW side of the house and get pretty much full sun. And get regular deep watering. From jljake1957@aol.com Thu Feb 10 02:33:48 2000 Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (MST) From: jljake1957@aol.com jljake1957@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to grow a lilac here. I had one growing well at my previous address in a NE exposure. However, it always seemed to be reaching for the sun. I've tried two since moving, I have all exposures available in which to plant it. The plants don't seem happy no matter what I do - too much sun here, too little there. Any suggestions? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 10 17:20:12 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvilleas Hi again FPO, There is no pub dedicated to bougainvillea. These are usually shaped up in early spring after any chance of cold damage has passed. This can be relative, depending on where it is planted because a north exposure will stay colder longer. It is evergreen during a mild winter but can die back to ground level when temps drop below mid-twenties.. If the plant was well established, it will come back from its base when the weather warms. During the vigorous growing season in summer, prune back the fast-growing long shoots to encourage development of the colorful bracts. Another sure way to maximize color is to stress the plant for water a bit. Ample H2O will lead to a lush but green specimen. Linda Guy Master Gardener Frank Osendorf wrote: > Thanks, Linda. I have ordered relevant publications. One more question. > Is there a publication that details pruning instructions for boganvellia > (sp) bushes? > > Thanks for your help. > > F. P. O. > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's > > 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with > > our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public > > library. If you want to order it, instructions are at > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > > I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a > > notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. > > http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am interested in a fertilization chart > > > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > > > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 10 17:40:04 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:40:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Watering Rosemary Two possibilities come immediately to mind. First, although rosemary is an excellent plant for our locale, my personal experience with Mediterranean herbs is that they have the best chance of thriving their first summer if planted very early spring, preferably autumn, to get well-established before that first blast of desert heat. If you planted late spring or early summer, [unless it was placed in filtered shade which it will not prefer long term] you increase your chance of losing the plant. However, your note suggests you drowned your plant. These plants can tolerate just about any kind of neglect [once established] except poor drainage. If it was put in largely clay soil without amendments to improve movement of water, your drip schedule was far more than the plant required. [When I first established my herb beds, which contain many of the Mediterranean herbs, I not only added lots of compost but a truck load of 1/8-minus gravel to improve the drainage in this particular area for this very reason.] In this bed, the rosemary [4' around in less than two years] gets a hose thrown on it perhaps once monthly in the summer to saturate the soil. I don't usually water it in winter, but have thrown the hose on recently since we've had so little rain. Similarly, another 4' rosemary in my xeriscape landscape gets a couple gallons monthly on a drip line in winter. In the summer, its likely twice monthly. I believe this is reasonable because all the other plants on the line were selected for their low-water usage. You need to let the soil dry out. And you might also consider capping one of the drips at this site. If your rosemary is on a line that must run long and/or often for other plants, I would keep it on your drip system the first summer, get it established and cap the drip entirely in year 2 and beyond. They simply get too woody [or die] if they get overwatered or overfertilized. Toss on the occasional hose in drought conditions. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener aanran@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? > A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. > Thanks for an answer!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Feb 10 17:00:18 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:00:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Papyrus Hi Renior, Papyrus is a bog plant; it is also a tropical which means it has higher need for humidity. They flourish with an inch or two of water above their roots, planted in containers of soil, and this is easily achieved in a pond setting. But they are also, believe it or not, submerged in a similar fashion and kept on patio or indoors. You 'damp' area may be inadequate to the task; also there is less humidity than when in a pond or larger container of water. These are full sun to partial shade plants. Mine have always leaned toward the sun when blocked by the shade of a nearby tree, which I ultimately removed for the health of my pond. Unless your area is filtered shade, it sounds like you might need to find a better location. I'm not saying you cannot plant it in a non-water garden setting, just that it could be more fussy. I would suggest buying a wide plastic container, like those used for water lilies, and plant it in ground in the container. You can keep it a lot more moist that way, and not overwater adjacent plants. And more importantly you will contain what can become a weed! We often recommend a container strategy for other invasive plants like herbs, which need good drainage produced by cutting out the bottom first. But in the case of a marsh plant, I'd suggest leaving the container bottom in tact. I have only just completed my annual pond cleaning. Last spring, I put one papyrus division of about 4 to 5 inch diameter in a three foot wide pot and in one year it is already totally overgrown. This is quite typical. To divide it, I remove the root ball and saw through it, giving away the divisions. [I have some if you are interested in more!] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener renior307@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dspjnp@hotmail.com Thu Feb 10 23:08:27 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:08:27 -0700 (MST) From: dspjnp@hotmail.com dspjnp@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Scottsdale, AZ 85254, what region or zone is this considered to be? From amussi@az.freei.net Fri Feb 11 05:57:10 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:57:10 -0700 (MST) From: amussi@az.freei.net amussi@az.freei.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring I planted a bouganvillea plant. Almost a year later it is looking pretty dismal. No flowers and sparse leaves. The branches also look white. My question is should I give this plant some more time (and if so, what can I do to make it grow) or should I pull it out and try with another one? From sparrow424@hotmail.com Fri Feb 11 04:33:24 2000 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 21:33:24 -0700 (MST) From: sparrow424@hotmail.com sparrow424@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature violet hardenbergia. It is currently blooming but there are many dry leaves and "dead" vines. It seems that the new and healthy vines wrap around the others and kill them off. While I have tried to cut off the dead vines it is nearly impossible since the healthy shoots are so intertwined. Should this plant have been pruned prior to the blooming? How far back should it be cut? Please help me with the care of this beautiful plant. Thanks. From garlina@frontiernet.net Fri Feb 11 07:23:54 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 00:23:54 -0700 (MST) From: garlina@frontiernet.net garlina@frontiernet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Two questions, what do the black spots on the leaves of our ten year old sweet orange tree (Trevita) mean? And, how can my friend keep javelinas from eating his cacti, specifically opuntia? Thank You for your help, Ernie From nsf28@hotmail.com Fri Feb 11 13:54:10 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:10 -0700 (MST) From: nsf28@hotmail.com nsf28@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when are the proper months to fertilize citrus trees and how much, and how long do orange, grapefruit trees normally produce, ours were planted in about 1972 and they are not bearing well. thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Feb 11 16:00:26 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:00:26 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: plants poisonous to dogs Another source of information about plants poisonous to dogs: http://ww.dogs.net/dogs/plants Information posted on the web may not be valid, but will give you a starting place to research specific plants. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From phxsal@aol.com Fri Feb 11 19:55:56 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 12:55:56 -0700 (MST) From: phxsal@aol.com phxsal@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What months do you fertilize your citrus? Thank you From www.wsmlharden@juno.com Fri Feb 11 20:34:00 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:34:00 -0700 (MST) From: www.wsmlharden@juno.com www.wsmlharden@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will the Marguerite Daisy (C.Trutescens) live through the Phoenix summers planted in full sun? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 11 22:07:50 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:07:50 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus Citrus should be fertilized three times a year in Feb or March, April or May, and July or August. Good luck. Rod From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Feb 12 00:12:02 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 17:12:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Held Mail sent to Arid_gardener Nancy: No need to fear, please allow me to explain. I am one of the list serve managers. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all incoming requests so that we can weed out "SPAM" - unwanted e-mail which can include such undesirable stuff as pornography - apparently it has happened in the past. So a group of us check all incoming requests that come in from non subscribers to the site (its ok that you are a non subscriber, these are just the requests that have to be monitored first). Once we see that what we have received is a legitimate gardening question, we give our approval and it goes on to be posted to all members of the list. Sometimes it takes a few days to get answered because its not unheard of for us to receive 25 requests for information a day. As soon as someone (these are all volunteers) has the chance to get to your question, it will be answered. I hope this clears up any misunderstanding. If you are interested in subscribing to our site (no charge), please feel free to check out the following page which gives all the particulars. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm Nancy Fritzler wrote: > i don't understand!!!!! all i wanted to know is when to fertilize my citrus > trees and how long (years) they bear fruit!!!! i don't want to put up a > poster, nor do i need it approved > > >From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To: nsf28@hotmail.com > >Subject: Mail sent to Arid_gardener > >Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 06:54:12 -0700 (MST) > > > >Your mail to 'Arid_gardener' with the subject: > > > > Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >Is being held until the list moderator can review it for approval. > > > >The reason it is being held: > > > > Only approved posters may post without moderator approval. > > > >Either the message will get posted to the list, or you will receive > >notification of the moderator's decision. > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 12 03:59:07 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus nitida dmaged by frost The Ficus nitida is quite frost tender and especially during its first winter. Wait until you can determine how much frost damage has occured before pruning, probably by the first of April. If we have more freezing temperatures forecast you would be wise to cover the tree to prevent further damage. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 12 03:59:06 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Roses If you live in the low desert this is the time of year to start fertilizing your roses and again after each bloom cycle which amounts to approximately every 6 weeks. During the hot months of June, July, and August only apply one half the usual amount of fertilizer. Do not fertilizer in the months of Dec. and January. Nearly all nurseries stock a fertilizer specially for roses; be sure to follow the label instructions. To learn more about rose care why not join one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley. Let me know and I'll send a list. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 12 03:59:08 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:08 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Acacia Identification If you have not already checked in the Sunset Western Garden Book, it is a good source for Acacia identification; it lists 29 varieties. If this does not help you I would suggest spending some time at the Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale where you will find many varieties of Acacia growing. Their volunteers are well trained and should be able to help you. The leaf drop on the one tree if it is not an A.farnesiana or A. smallii could be caused by the cutback in irrigation last fall if you reduced the amount of water too much too early and especially if you had not been deep watering. U. of A. recommends increasing the irrigation interval without reducing the amount of water applied as the weather cools in the fall and winter. Last fall the temps remained abnormally high way into November. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 12 03:59:06 2000 Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 22:59:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea not blooming Bougainvillea will look it's best when planted in full sun, and once it has become established (about one season) requires little water or fertilizer. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Feb 12 18:49:14 2000 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 11:49:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Chopped Pecan Leaves in Compost Apologies for the delayed response, but I can find no specific admonitions against using pecan leaves in compost. This does not mean that you aren't correct! The only plant materials I found specific reference to the production of toxins that inhibit plant growth are eucalyptus, oleander, and tamarisk. This was in a Tucson/Pima County publication, so one would expect that the authors would have included pecan leaves if they were an issue. You could do some investigating on your own through our composting linked sites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost You are right to chop your leaves before adding them to the compost. It expedites the process. Sorry I wasn't more help. Linda Guy Master Gardener robert_michael@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have been making compost with chopped pecan tree leaves. I heard somewhere that the addition of this compost to soil will inhibit the growth of plants like tomato and lettuce. Is this true? > > Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Feb 12 19:00:07 2000 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:00:07 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Care for Bermuda Lawn The time to start reconditioning your bermuda lawn would be in May; this and other events on the gardening calendar are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm In the meantime, you could browse some of our good turf publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn These can't be viewed online, but are available in the reference section of your library. If you want to order any, go to the top of the referenced listing of publications. They are $1 each (free if you can swing by the office to pick them up). MC18 Establishment & Care of Lawn & Turfgrass in Southern Arizona, MC35 Irrigation Water Needs for Bermudagrass Lawns and 8752 Hybrid Bermudagrass Lawns may be of particular interest to you. Another way to go is to read the lawn section of the Master Gardener Manual which is online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/maintenance.html There is a discussion of thatching and renovation. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pierce7@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > my lawn is bermuda grass. I want a nice thick lawn this summer. What can I do? > > My ground is very hard in place and grass will not grow. > > should I get top soil, thatch or eriade my lawn > please help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Feb 12 19:14:10 2000 Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2000 12:14:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] New Vegetable Garden Here are a few places you can tour on the website to get you and your vegetable garden started. Maricopa County has a number of home horticulture publications; you can start at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm >where you can specifically look online at AZ1100 Flower and Bedding >Plant Guide for the Low Desert and AZ1005 Vegetable Planting Calendar >for Maricopa County, amongst many other specialty publications. If a >publication of interest is not online, this page contains instructions >for ordering a copy. Your local library should also have a full set in its reference section. > >We also have a book for newcomers called Desert >Gardening for Beginners that can be ordered at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm Many local nurseries also carry it. > >Finally, every month we keep you posted on gardening activities >suitable for our climate and conditions. It too is available on our >website at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm This is probably more than enough to launch your effort. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pfhagen1@uswest.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We are starting a new garden. Is there a list of vegetable varieties available that do well in Arizona? We are located in New River, AZ, elevation approximately 1,350'. We'd like to be able to print out some information or have it sent to us. Happy gardening, may God bless us with good weather! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dmkerr@dancris.com Sun Feb 13 16:11:15 2000 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 09:11:15 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Today, 2/13/00, I ate my first tomato. I planted Carmello seeds = (Shepherds seeds) in September. Transplanted to the garden in October = after the highs were consistently less than 100. I had to use shade = cloth because it was so hot and dry. I planted them in my garden on the = South side of the house, partly under the eave. By the end of November, = the plants were 3 feet high, growing out of the top of their cages. For = frost protection, I put a bunch of one gallon plastic milk cartons = filled with water around the plants. Where I live, the lows are ten to = eleven degreees less than the official Sky Harbor temperatures. I get = up at 5am and listen to the radio. If there is a chance of frost, I put = sheets over the tomato cages. I have noticed that the temperature = falls precipitously in the hour or two before dawn. It can be 40 in = Scottsdale (50 at Sky Habor) at 5am and then 29 at 7 am. =20 The plants grew very slowly in December and early January when the days = are short. With longer days, the plants are now 5 feet tall, filling = the cages and full of 2-3" fruits. Last year, I had tomatos from = February to May, but the leaves curled, suggesting curly top virus. = Also, I grew Celebrity, a determinate variety, which may explain why my = plants stopped producing. My question: When exactly do I need to put = on shade cloth to prevent curly top virus transmitted by leafhoppers? = Is there specific information available about temperatures and humidity = effects on the leafhoppers? The way our climate changes from year to = year probably means that I need to know temperatures and rainfall rather = than hard and fast dates. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BF7602.47825840-- From suzmike@openlines.com Sun Feb 13 18:41:29 2000 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 11:41:29 -0700 (MST) From: suzmike@openlines.com suzmike@openlines.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an overgrown Lemmon tree. Where can I find information on pruning this tree back in overall size? From camdonn@aol.com Mon Feb 14 04:11:50 2000 Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2000 21:11:50 -0700 (MST) From: camdonn@aol.com camdonn@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are roses a commercially grown crop in AZ? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 14 21:30:24 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:30:24 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Roses A little known fact is that over 40% of the rose bushes sold in the U.S. are grown in the west valley, a little over 600 acres. However I don't believe that there are any blooms grown comercially here in the Phoenix area. Rod From cbailey62@juno.com Mon Feb 14 22:40:47 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 15:40:47 -0700 (MST) From: cbailey62@juno.com cbailey62@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? Thanks for your assistance. Carol From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Feb 14 23:27:24 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 16:27:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Butterflies To name a few plants that attract butterflies: Lantana, verbena, coreopsis, cosmos, nicotiana, lobelia, marigolds, penstemon, yarrow. These will all provide nectar for the adult. Butterfly larvae need food too. Some plants that fit this category are: Desert milkweed, hollyhock, snapdragon, aster, fennel, geum, penstemon, strawberry. In the shrubs department for larval food, hibiscus, cassia, mallow. I found a few web sites that may be inspirational to you: http://www.butterflywings.com/garden.html This next site has nice photos of annuals and perennials attractive to butterflies: http://campbells-nrsy.com/Handouts/butterfly_gardening.htm The following page also has butterfly gardening information, with a little humor added :>) http://www.htcomp.net/weis/butterflygarden.HTML Hope this helps with some inspiration! Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer cbailey62@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? > > Thanks for your assistance. > > Carol > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 00:28:14 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:28:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Stopping Podding on Carob Trees I regret that I don't have knowledge of a way to treat your carob tree to keep it from forming pods. In our publication Q375 Chemical Removal of Flowers (Olive & Mulberry), the chemical spray that works on olives is NAA (napthaleneacetic acid). It is not effective on all things, but you might ask your favorite nursery if they have experience with this or another compound for carobs. Please be careful with NAA, it can cause a rsh on people susceptible to allergies. Linda Guy Master Gardener papagiorgio@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there any way to stop a carob tree from getting pods? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 00:56:53 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:56:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Zoysia Grass Mrs. Beasley, Referring to our publication MC 18 Lawn & Turf Grass in Southern Arizona, I found that zoysia is moderately well adapted to our area. It is medium textured, stoloniferous, and dense; likes full sun and tolerates partial shade. It is somewhat more cold tolerant than the bermudas, so there's a slightly longer growing season . That is helpful, since overseeding in winter with rye is not recommended for this grass. It prefers growing in loam soils so it can get to be yellowy-green in our soils if stressed in hot weather. It grows slower than other options which reduces mowing and dethatching somewhat; but it also means it could require a couple years to form a good carpet for you. Insect and disease susceptibility is somewhat greater than bermuda, and recovery from any setback will be noticeably slower.If you choose this turf, be sure to select locally grown stolons, plugs or sod which will be better acclimated than those from out-of-state. Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Patti Baciewicz " wrote: > arid_gardener > Dear Patti; > > When your orange trees begin bearing sour fruit on trees that were usually > sweet, could that be the result of cross-pollination from nearby lemon or > grapefruit trees? > > Also, would Zoysia grass work well here in the valley? According to the ads, > it thrives best in heat but there are no temperatures available as to > limitations. This grass was quite popular in Maryland, turning brown in late > Fall but greening nicely in the Spring of the year. It required little > maintenance, little water and could be mowed less. The only problem created > was it grew in thick masses and would smother itself out requiring plugging > sections out now and again. Beautiful grass. > > Thanks for any advice you may provide. > > Mrs. Beasley kbea913903@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 00:59:05 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 17:59:05 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Locating Cara Cara Navels I found a listing at Greenfield Citrus Nursery at http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Hope you can find them. They are supposed to be a beautifully red-pigmented orange, similar to red grapefruit in color. Linda Guy Master Gardener charmain@ctaz.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Lake Havasu City and I am very interested in a fairly new variety of Navel Orange called Cara Cara for my home garden. Where may these trees be purchased? They are considered excellent for growing in our low desert but I cannot find them. Please help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 01:04:32 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 18:04:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Butterfly Garden In addition to the excellent resources you already received, you can consult our own publication AZ 1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers One of the columns shows those flowers attractive to butterflies and you'll also have information on when to plant in our climate. Linda Guy Master Gardener cbailey62@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know what plants to plant in order to attract butterflies? > > Thanks for your assistance. > > Carol > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Jenfloy@aol.com Tue Feb 15 06:04:21 2000 Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 23:04:21 -0700 (MST) From: Jenfloy@aol.com Jenfloy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last fall I was given a young ash tree from a friend of mine. It was a volunteer and she was not sure which kind it was. I'm thinking it is an Arizona Ash, based on the descriptions in my "Western Garden" book. The tree was planted in the fall, didn't grow much but made it through the winter as new leaves are starting to sprout all over. It's about 6 feet high. My question is related to it's prunning. It's tallest branch is not the straight middle trunk-looking branch. Should I prune back the tall straight-up side branch in the spring or just leave it alone and see what happens? The whole tree really doesn't look all that funky. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks eric From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 16:16:14 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:16:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lime Care I'm no citrus expert, but I do have a lime tree whose performance was similar to yours this year. Limes are not the easiest citrus to grow in our area. They are extremely frost sensitive and need to be planted in a warm area, out of the winds. You don't say which variety you have, but I will share that the Bearss seedless (Persian) is the recommended type for our locale. Others sold include Mexican (Key) and Rangpur. All are fairly tart and range in green to yellow in color. I have slightly conflicting information on the 'ripening season' (again remember these are going to be tart): our publication AZ 1001 on Low Desert Citrus http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1001.pdf says it is July through January for Bearss. Mexican limes ripen in September but you can experience some small percentage of fruit remaining throughout the year. My lime performed exactly as did yours. Most fruit fell in December [I have a Bearss] and the tree has been setting new fruit for at least the last month. The fruit was yellow this year (lack of cold can impact the color) and is usually always tending to tart/sour. Your irrigation schedule is not quite what citrus prefer. Deep infrequent watering (every 10 - 14 days in summer; every 21 to 30 days in winter) is preferred. Citrus does very well in flood irrigated communities, e.g. You should also be starting the first tranche of your fertilization for this year soon. If you have more questions on care, check out our citrus publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Most are not online, but can be viewed in the reference section of your public library. If you want to order a copy, instructions are at the top of this web page. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener ronolive@usa.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a lime tree that was not taken care of > for years until we bought the house. I have > taken care of it since then and it bore limes > for the first time this year. A month ago they > all turned yellow and fell off the tree with > little to no green color. Now there is a new > small crop on the tree. I am afraid they will > turn yellow and prematurely fall off again. > I was watering every 7 days. Now I am watering > every 14 days for thirty minutes. It takes about 4 hours for the > water to fully absorb into the ground from the > birm around the tree. What am I doing wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 16:30:56 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:30:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Oleander This may come to late to be of help to you this year. Referring to our publication 8213 on Disease of Oleander, they are extremely frost sensitive. So, unless your oleanders are in the warmest part of the valley, not in a cooler (e.g. northern) exposures and in full sun, there is some risk to pruning this early in the year. Even if there already was frost damage, the plant is better served leaving it there to protect the growth beneath until risk of frost is past. This publication recommends pruning immediately following their peak spring flowering period. I'm not sure if this is indeed, the end of April. Generally, we don't recommend removing more than 1/3 of a plant's canopy, but I can't definitively say that cutting back to 5-7" is a poor practice for oleander which does well in our area. You don't mention if it is a dwarf or one of the vatrieties that can reach into the powerlines. You can view this publication and other Home Horticulture publications in the reference section of your public library. If you want to order this one, instructions are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener Sitting4@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Our Homeowners Association is planning a MAJOR pruning of the oleanders. This means the plants will be cut down to just 5-7 inch stems. They say this will insure blooms for the summer. I would like to know if this is a good thing, and when is the best time to prune oleanders? > Also, They did this last year at the end of April and I was very upset. I plan to be outside the day this happens to tell them NOT to cut the plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 16:38:38 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 09:38:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pineapple Guava (Feijoa sellowiana) There's a nice summary in the Sunset Western Garden Guide, p. 292, where it is listed as growing in our zone. However, the book does suggest that the fruit have better flavor in the cooler coastal climates, as opposed to the heat of low deserts. Being on a wall and facing west, you are exposing your plant to one of the hottest scenarios of your yard. This is a great plant to train as espalier, screen or hedge, or even as a small tree that looks like olive. It can take almost any amount of pruning, which is best done in late spring since this is a frost sensitive plant. Linda Guy Master Gardener www.ontsask@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in Sun Lakes, how would pineapple guavas do in full sun here? They would be near the east wall so they would get the west sun. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 17:00:45 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:00:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Using Potassium Softened Water First, let me acknowledge that I am no chemist! But, I thought I learned that we have come to use the generic term 'salt' for sodium, when, indeed, there are many kinds of salt and potassium is one of them. [Morton's makes 'Lite Salt' for the kitchen that is basically potassium chloride.] Unfortunately, our publication 8736 Softened and Recycled Water: Safe for Plants? just deals with sodium, and it suggests that water softened in this manner never be used in the landscape. Some salt tolerant plants are bermuda, oleander, bougainvillea, but this applies to water from pool backwashing, not water softeners. We have adequate levels of potassium in our soils already, and do not usually recommend its application unless the soil is sandy. So to add more potassium is probably not beneficial. Remember that the ill effects will probably be cumulative. I guess the best suggestion I could make at this time would be to contact some of the soil testing firms to see if they can give you a better answer than I can. We have such a listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Good luck! Write back and let me know what you discover. Linda Guy Master Gardener eye6624@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We are soon getting soft water installed and will be using potasium and not salt as the exchange ion. > This house does not have a soft water loop, so If the plants are watered outside with soft water as described will it harm them, help them, or what? It will be expensive to route a hard water line so I need to know. Thank you!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 17:05:01 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:05:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Larvae in Citrus Since your question has been unanswered for a spell, and because I can't find an answer in any of my reference material, I'd like to suggest that you bring some examples down to the County Extension Office. Local staff and Master Gardener volunteers meet weekly to examine, identify/diagnose and offer solutions. We are located at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. There is a box on the Master Gardener desk that takes the specimens. Linda Guy Master Gardener brederick@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an Arizona Sweet Orange tree which has a new problem. I have found 3 or 4 oranges with a hole near the bottom. The hole ranges from about the size of a "BB" to .4" diameter. Around the hole are small larvae which look like the things you find in wheat or cereal when it gets wormey. > Do you have any idea what these are? I have never had them before. Is there anything I should do other than pick the fruit and trash-can it? > Thanks for the help. > Bob Rederick > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Feb 15 17:16:54 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 10:16:54 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Low Water Use Trees Most native specimens will benefit from regular watering during the first summer season to become established, after which time minimal irrigation is required. However, the speed with which a desert tree grows is often related to the amount of water received. What I am suggesting is that if you want faster growth, more water will speed the process. Sometimes, though, the trees are grown too fast, and the trunk cannot support the weight of the more lush canopy. You see this often after monsoon storms have blown away well watered specimens in landscapes whereas specimens in uncultivated areas are more apt to withstand the wind. In addition to low water use, you will need to consider the size of the space, if you can handle the leaf and pod litter that many leguminous trees produce (i.e. is a pool or water feature nearby), do you have allergies, are there power lines nearby, do you want color, when, do you care if deciduous or evergreen, etc. We have a publication MC 33 on Drought Resistant Trees for Maricopa County, but there are also other tree pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals You can see these at your public library's reference section or order them [see the top of this web page for instructions]. There is another good booklet co-published by City of Phoenix, SRP, and Desert Botanical Garden, among others, called Desert Shade Trees. You might call the DBG to see if its still published, then stop by to look at some of the candidates that you are considering for your yard. Linda Guy Master Gardener ebdive2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, Can you please name 3(if there are that many) desert trees which grow rapidly and can do so with no supplemental watering; if it needs a week or so of h2o to begin, that is possible. Thank you for any help you can provide. Elizabeth > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Feb 15 18:23:32 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:23:32 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Chicken soup for the gardener's soul --=====================_15256992==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" There is an add in the newspaper soliciting tales by gardeners for Chicken Soup for the Soul. It says gardeners can share stories with the world. The creators of the Chicken Soup for the Soul Series will pay $300 for each tale selected for their upcoming book "Chicken Soup for the Gardener's Soul". According to the book's editors, the best entries are usually personal, tender, or funny, and no more than 1,200 words long. It says trade your shovel for a computer keyboard and pen your tale. The deadline for entries is March 1. To submit a story or receive more information, write to Chicken Soup, 51 N. Cromwell St., Fairfiled, IA 52556 or send a FAX to 312-577-0668. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15256992==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" There is an add in the newspaper soliciting tales by gardeners for Chicken Soup for the Soul.

It says gardeners can share stories with the world. The creators of the Chicken Soup for the Soul Series will pay $300 for each tale selected for their upcoming book "Chicken Soup for the Gardener's Soul".

According to the book's editors, the best entries are usually personal, tender, or funny, and no more than 1,200 words long. It says trade your shovel for a computer keyboard and pen your tale.

The deadline for entries is March 1. To submit a story or receive more information, write to Chicken Soup, 51 N. Cromwell St., Fairfiled, IA 52556 or send a FAX to 312-577-0668.

Carol Noyes

Administrative Secretary

Maricopa County

Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086 Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_15256992==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Feb 15 18:38:15 2000 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 11:38:15 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page You may find the following page in the Master Gardener manual useful. It has very good information on when, why, and how to prune your trees. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/reasons.html#training Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer Jenfloy@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Last fall I was given a young ash tree from a friend of mine. It was a volunteer and she was not sure which kind it was. I'm thinking it is an Arizona Ash, based on the descriptions in my "Western Garden" book. The tree was planted in the fall, didn't grow much but made it through the winter as new leaves are starting to sprout all over. It's about 6 feet high. My question is related to it's prunning. It's tallest branch is not the straight middle trunk-looking branch. Should I prune back the tall straight-up side branch in the spring or just leave it alone and see what happens? The whole tree really doesn't look all that funky. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > Thanks > eric > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From R2BESHON@aol.com Wed Feb 16 07:32:29 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:32:29 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] mesquite trees i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over from the winds of June and July. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. what is your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the disease never completely leaves. any ideas? From sff2000@worldnet.att.net Wed Feb 16 15:59:38 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 08:59:38 -0700 (MST) From: sff2000@worldnet.att.net sff2000@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page There was an ad in the Arizona Republic for Meyer Zoysia grass in plugs. How suitable is this as a grass. I have medium shade to full sun. What ground cover/grass alternatives are available for the low desert. I am in the 40th street and Chandler blvd area of Phoenix. From li_bedell@uswest.net Wed Feb 16 13:36:54 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 06:36:54 -0700 (MST) From: li_bedell@uswest.net li_bedell@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do my AZ Sweet oranges, when you peel the skin off is dry on the top section of the fruit, the rest is still juicy? From elaine.ball@americanfence.com Wed Feb 16 16:20:32 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 09:20:32 -0700 (MST) From: elaine.ball@americanfence.com elaine.ball@americanfence.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 lady banks roses and this is their third season and I get very few flowers. One is on a north facing wall and the other on a west facing wall. Should I prune them? Should I use a special fertalizer ( use fish Emulsion on my regular roses) From neal5@home.com Wed Feb 16 17:30:19 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:30:19 -0700 (MST) From: neal5@home.com neal5@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a lemon tree about 15 plus years old that since we have been in this house (3 hrs.) has not produced lemons. It will drop alot of it's leaves starting in Dec.-Jan. Now it is starting to show blossoms which it will have a lot of, but produce only 5 lemons (last year) none of which matured. It is on a drip system for water and is on the eastside of our house with ample sunlight. It was fertilized last year, but I have not fertilized it this year yet. Any suggestions on how to have this lemon tree produce lemons. Thanks! From DeVerasLT@aol.com Wed Feb 16 17:41:16 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:41:16 -0700 (MST) From: DeVerasLT@aol.com DeVerasLT@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two colonies of potted aloe vera on my back patio, where they've lived over 7 years in the shade. They need to be repotted. Can I move them into direct sunlight and plant them in Arizona soil? They originated in California - hard soil, full sun, but nothing like here! Help! Thanks! From sdrt@aol.com Wed Feb 16 21:42:11 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 14:42:11 -0700 (MST) From: sdrt@aol.com sdrt@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Being from the Midwest, I am not sure what to do about my roses here in the desert. Do I prune them back to just canes each year? If so when? I did not prune them last year and they turned out AOK. Thanks. From neal5@home.com Wed Feb 16 17:40:42 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 10:40:42 -0700 (MST) From: neal5@home.com neal5@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On the southeast side and southeast back corner of my home are six gardenia bushes probably 10-15 yrs. old. Since we have been in our home (3 yrs) these bushes never have looked completely green and healthy. They have produced flowers for about a three week period in May, but then go back to looking not very good. The leaves have brown tips and spots and never get a nice green. I'm thinking of taking them out and replacing them with something else with flowers, but don't know what. Any suggestions on improving the gardenia bushes or what would be a good replacement for them. Thanks for your help! Karen From rssmryfll@uswest.net Wed Feb 16 22:21:13 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 15:21:13 -0700 (MST) From: rssmryfll@uswest.net rssmryfll@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like a written comparison of the advantages and disadvantages of Perennial Ryegrass and Annual Ryegrass to be grown in the Sun City, AZ area. I would like the report to include costs, watering, maintenance, disease resistence, looks and wear factors if possible. Thank you in advance for any help that you can give me. R. Foell From zbinternational@hotmail.com Wed Feb 16 23:46:49 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:46:49 -0700 (MST) From: zbinternational@hotmail.com zbinternational@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can anyone tell me if arizona black walnut trees will grow in the Phoenix area? Typically I think they are found at higher and cooler elevations. Thank You From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Feb 16 23:38:14 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:38:14 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Gardenia Question from Home-Hort WWW page] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <38AB3413.E3BFE164@uswest.net> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 16:34:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: neal5@home.com Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200002161740.KAA17310@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Karen: Perhaps some of my colleagues will be able to offer you some good alternatives to the gardenia. I can offer you some of the information I found out about growing them here in the low desert . I did a little research in my copy of "An Illustrated Guide to Landscape Shrubs of Southern Arizona" by Ronald K. Dinchak. Gardenias "can" be grown here, but they need a little extra care and consideration to thrive in our climate and soil. I'd say the first obstacle for the gardenia in your yard is their location. In my research I found that the planting site and preparation are critical to their success. They need exposures that receive filtered light to some sun, but always afternoon shade. The soil in which they grow needs to have a mixture of highly organic matter added, such as peat moss, that will drain quickly yet retain water and is slightly acid in pH. The roots always need to be mulched. Gardenias must be fed monthly with a fertilizer prepared specifically for their needs. Since they are susceptible to iron chlorosis they need an additional feeding of a chelated iron. Iron chlorosis is a common problem due to our alkaline soils here in the desert. It is likely the reason your leaves are not very green. There are many flowering shrubs that would be better suited to that location in your landscape. If you decide to replace them with something else I would suggest visiting a good nursery and speaking with them about the exposure and what you are looking for in a plant. I hope this helps somewhat. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer neal5@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > On the southeast side and southeast back corner of my home are six gardenia bushes probably 10-15 yrs. old. Since we have been in our home (3 yrs) these bushes never have looked completely green and healthy. They have produced flowers for about a three week period in May, but then go back to looking not very good. The leaves have brown tips and spots and never get a nice green. I'm thinking of taking them out and replacing them with something else with flowers, but don't know what. Any suggestions on improving the gardenia bushes or what would be a good replacement for them. Thanks for your help! Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------416043DEE3642E8E996B9552-- From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu Feb 17 00:26:53 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:26:53 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fwd: mesquite trees --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please help me. --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (rly-yb04.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.4]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:57 -0500 Received: from mail.sisna.com (mail.sisna.com [209.210.176.29]) by rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:54 -0500 Received: from lucy [209.210.168.40] by mail.sisna.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-6.00) id AFA9BA360064; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:20:09 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000215233751.009b61f0@mail.sisna.com> X-Sender: LBradley@mail.sisna.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:38:23 -0700 To: R2BESHON@aol.com From: Lucy Bradley Subject: Re: mesquite trees In-Reply-To: <17.1d2be6f.25daebd5@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lucy Bradley is on Sabbatical. Your message has been forwarded to the arid_gardener list. At 12:50 PM 02/15/2000 -0500, you wrote: >i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were >planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over >from the >winds of june and july. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. >what is >your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. > >also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest >treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in >clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the >disease >never completely leaves. any ideas? Lucy Bradley will be on Sabbatical until January 1, 2001. Please check with one of the folks below for assistance: * Gardening questions -- * Master Gardener Program in Maricopa County -- Cathy Rymer * The new Statewide Coordinator for Arizona Master Gardener Programing Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> * The new Webmaster for the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) Lenny Librizzi * The new Webmaster for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Kim McReynolds * The new List Manager for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Lee Clark * The new Webmaster and List Manager for the Arizona Community Tree Council Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> If you have other questions please contact Carol Noyes and she will direct you. --part1_b9.d8925f.25dc9a4d_boundary-- From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu Feb 17 00:29:19 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:29:19 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fwd: mesquite trees --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit please help me. --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (rly-yb04.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.4]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:57 -0500 Received: from mail.sisna.com (mail.sisna.com [209.210.176.29]) by rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (v67_b1.24) with ESMTP; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 02:20:54 -0500 Received: from lucy [209.210.168.40] by mail.sisna.com with ESMTP (SMTPD32-6.00) id AFA9BA360064; Wed, 16 Feb 2000 00:20:09 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000215233751.009b61f0@mail.sisna.com> X-Sender: LBradley@mail.sisna.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 23:38:23 -0700 To: R2BESHON@aol.com From: Lucy Bradley Subject: Re: mesquite trees In-Reply-To: <17.1d2be6f.25daebd5@aol.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lucy Bradley is on Sabbatical. Your message has been forwarded to the arid_gardener list. At 12:50 PM 02/15/2000 -0500, you wrote: >i deep water all my mesquite trees every 10 days for 4 hours. the trees were >planted in 1996. i started doing this when the trees started falling over >from the >winds of june and july. i was told the roots were too shallow probably. >what is >your opinion. i have been deeping water like this for a year. > >also i am having problems with the dwarf oleander disease. how do you suggest >treating it. i have been trimming the diseased limbs with shears soaked in >clorox for each cut for over 2 years and the plants have not died but the >disease >never completely leaves. any ideas? Lucy Bradley will be on Sabbatical until January 1, 2001. Please check with one of the folks below for assistance: * Gardening questions -- * Master Gardener Program in Maricopa County -- Cathy Rymer * The new Statewide Coordinator for Arizona Master Gardener Programing Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> * The new Webmaster for the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA) Lenny Librizzi * The new Webmaster for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Kim McReynolds * The new List Manager for the Arizona Agriculture Extension Association (AAEA) Lee Clark * The new Webmaster and List Manager for the Arizona Community Tree Council Tom DeGomez< degomez@ag.arizona.edu> If you have other questions please contact Carol Noyes and she will direct you. --part1_c5.1e96dfe.25dc9adf_boundary-- From am22old@yahoo.com Thu Feb 17 01:11:59 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 18:11:59 -0700 (MST) From: am22old@yahoo.com am22old@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The leaves are curling on a young Tangelo tree. What causes this and is it something about which to be concerned? Thank you From jabgva@mindspring.com Thu Feb 17 15:59:32 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:59:32 -0700 From: Jim Basso jabgva@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] trees This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I was startled when the mgr of a large landscaping firm stated that they could no longer top trees because of a state law. Is this true ? ------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was startled when the mgr of a large = landscaping=20 firm stated

that they could no longer top trees = because of a=20 state law. Is this

true ?

------=_NextPart_000_00A1_01BF7925.4E259560-- From Azbriar@aol.com Thu Feb 17 03:18:59 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 20:18:59 -0700 (MST) From: Azbriar@aol.com Azbriar@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I kill bermuda grass in my garden? Is rototilling the garden 2X year just spreading the bermuda? Should I spray it to die and not plant for a year to let it die out? From jabgva@mindspring.com Thu Feb 17 02:36:33 2000 Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 19:36:33 -0700 From: Jim Basso jabgva@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite trees We have 17 of these trees in our common area of our HOA Our new Maintenance Mgr refused to trim them last summer over the objections of the owners whose view was being blocked, and stated that they should only be trimmed in Jan. or Feb. and evidently our board agreed with him. I would like to take this contrary opinion to our HOA meeting Monday, Feb. 21th Thanks Jim Basso in Green Valley,Az From margie@azwest.net Thu Feb 17 15:18:07 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 08:18:07 -0700 (MST) From: margie@azwest.net margie@azwest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are having a terrible problem catching or trapping a gopher. We live in Buckeye in a rural area. Do you have any suggestions? We are also putting in an asparagus bed. Do you have any suggestions? From aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us Thu Feb 17 18:40:52 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 11:40:52 -0700 (MST) From: aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us aleen.walker@saltriver.pima-maricopa.nsn.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently moved to a new home that is landscaped. I have no idea what types of plants I have growing around my back and front yards. I was told that if I sent a package to the extension, the plants could be identified for me. Is this true? I have about 26 different types of plants, and I have taken some to a garden center--but they don't seem as 'sure' as I'd like them to sound. Please let me know if this is possible, and if so, where can I send it. Thank you! Aleen Walker From henryr@kaibab.com Thu Feb 17 20:17:22 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:17:22 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm wanting to start a vegetable garden and I would like to know if Burpee or NK brands at garden stores are okay to plant. Or is there a certain brand of seeds I should be using for our Mesa soil. Is there a store or outlet that caters to Arizona gardeners? Thank you for answering my last question on rototilling. From tabeauaz@aol.com Thu Feb 17 21:55:14 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:55:14 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I'm looking for some sugestions on flowers or plants for a northern location that gets some morning sun, but is generally in shade, the ground tends to stay very moist on it's own, and I'd like to not have to water a great deal if possible. Any ideas( perenials?) would be appreciated. Thanks. P.S. and any sugestions for different plants that will flower at different times of the year( sorry to be a pest)Diane From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 17 23:03:48 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:03:48 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Identifying trees and shrubs Aleen, The plant diagnostic session meets each Friday from 7.30 to 9.00 AM at 4341 E. Broadway Rd., Phoenix. I would sugest that if you are able, to bring a leaf from each plant to the session personally to be identified. If you are unable to be in attendance at that time, bring the samples in the previous day so that they are as fresh as possible. Often times samples that are mailed are not in good enough condition for identification. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 18 03:05:40 2000 Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 22:05:40 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses Now is the time to prune roses if you live in the low desert. Mary Lou Coffman has written an excellent article on pruning roses which ran in the Arizona Republic recently. Watch for future articles in the Wednesday Republic on rose care by Mary Lou or myself. I'm enclosing her article here. If you are really into growing roses why not join one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley, and learn some of the secrets that rosarians use to grow prize winning roses. Send me the area of the valley that you live and I'll send you the address and telephone of the closest club. Good luck, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT