From KBea913903@aol.com Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:11:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 11:11:18 -0700 From: by way of Patti Baciewicz KBea913903@aol.com Subject: [AG] fruit trees; grasses Dear Patti; When your orange trees begin bearing sour fruit on trees that were usually sweet, could that be the result of cross-pollination from nearby lemon or grapefruit trees? Also, would Zoysia grass work well here in the valley? According to the ads, it thrives best in heat but there are no temperatures available as to limitations. This grass was quite popular in Maryland, turning brown in late Fall but greening nicely in the Spring of the year. It required little maintenance, little water and could be mowed less. The only problem created was it grew in thick masses and would smother itself out requiring plugging sections out now and again. Beautiful grass. Thanks for any advice you may provide. Mrs. Beasley kbea913903@aol.com From pierce7@home.net Mon, 31 Jan 2000 14:00:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 14:00:17 -0700 (MST) From: pierce7@home.net pierce7@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my lawn is bermuda grass. I want a nice thick lawn this summer. What can I do? My ground is very hard in place and grass will not grow. should I get top soil, thatch or eriade my lawn please help From fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:23:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 19:23:19 -0700 (MST) From: fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in a fertilization chart for citrus trees. What to apply, when, and how much. These are newly planted trees. From abayha@msad71.net Tue, 1 Feb 2000 08:33:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 08:33:28 -0700 (MST) From: abayha@msad71.net abayha@msad71.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. From hteckhoff@aol.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:06:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:06:29 -0700 (MST) From: hteckhoff@aol.com hteckhoff@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. H. From charmain@ctaz.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:58:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 12:58:04 -0700 (MST) From: charmain@ctaz.com charmain@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Lake Havasu City and I am very interested in a fairly new variety of Navel Orange called Cara Cara for my home garden. Where may these trees be purchased? They are considered excellent for growing in our low desert but I cannot find them. Please help. From dmkerr@dancris.com Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:33:57 -0700 Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 18:33:57 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size = of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of = the head. What can I do to stop this? ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are = bolting. The=20 heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow = flowers=20 forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop=20 this?

------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BF6CE2.E67502A0-- From jdoucet@futureone.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) From: jdoucet@futureone.com jdoucet@futureone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the best varities of tomato plants for this area. From brederick@uswest.net Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:41:57 -0700 (MST) From: brederick@uswest.net brederick@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an Arizona Sweet Orange tree which has a new problem. I have found 3 or 4 oranges with a hole near the bottom. The hole ranges from about the size of a "BB" to .4" diameter. Around the hole are small larvae which look like the things you find in wheat or cereal when it gets wormey. Do you have any idea what these are? I have never had them before. Is there anything I should do other than pick the fruit and trash-can it? Thanks for the help. Bob Rederick From slimjimwin@uswest.net Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:14:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:14:20 -0700 (MST) From: slimjimwin@uswest.net slimjimwin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently bought my first house and have never had a garden or planted grass or even had a plant. My question is a basic one. I want to have a lawn in my backyard but I am not sure where to start. Do I just throw out the seed and pray, or is there something I can do to prep the ground? Any help you can give me I would appreciate. From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:12:23 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 13:12:23 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Tomato varieties for Phx Hi there: For what it's worth...we have had pretty good luck with Early Girls and excellent results with Sweet 100s (a cherry tomato) here in the Phoenix area. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 1 >Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 09:08:55 -0700 (MST) >From: jdoucet@futureone.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >What are the best varities of tomato plants >for this area. > Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:22:15 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:22:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overtilling Soil I don't find specific mention of this in our Home Horticulture publications. But my sense [and perhaps residual from my old days in 4-H] is that yes, it is possible to overwork your soil. I read something recently in the Gardens Alive! catalog that suggests that everytime we till, we destroy a natural network of microbes that is present. HOWEVER, our soil just cries for organic material and we need to get it into the soil once or twice a year at a minimum. So, I believe you are doing your soil a great justice with your current semi-annual practice. The presence of earthworms is a testament! [You will see more of them in the winter when they are closer to the surface; they retreat from the heat in the summer.] And no, you don't get two live earthworms when you cut one in half! Just be sure the soil is dried out enough (just moist) when you till. You can ruin the soil texture by working it when it is too wet. Linda Guy Master Gardener henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to overtill (rototiller) a patch of ground set aside for gardening someday? I till in composted leaves,etc. every 5-6 months just to keep my tiller operational. I do find lots of earthworms when I do the tilling. How often can I till my gardening area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:34:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:34:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Composting Links available from our own website are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost We have a publication Q230 Make Your Own Compost which is not, unfortunately, on line. You can view a copy at the local library in the reference section which has all our Home Horticulture publications. Copies are available at our office (free if you drop in) else send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Many local municipal solid waste management departments support home composting by giving away free [or for a nominal fee] compost bins and manuals. Contact yours to see if this program is available. If not, the cities of Phoenix and Chandler do so, though I'm not sure if you need to be a resident. Finally, SRP's Environmental Services area (602/236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one; they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting efforts, too. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jjewett@bigplanet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you send me some links, or information about composting. I have an idea how the process works, but not the details. I love to garden, and am frustrated by the soil around my house. Any ideas on how I can improve the situation? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:59 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:43:59 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bolting Brocoli --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family, It's been an unusually balmy winter and most cool season crops are performing as they would more reasonably be expected to do in March when the days warm in a more typical pattern. I don't consider your broccoli's activity unusual: we consume what are the flower buds and they are doing what they do naturally which is produce pretty yellow flowers. The answer is to share the broccoli with your neighbors, find every conceivable recipe for broccoli you can, or learn how to freeze it. As to its size, my personal experience suggests that the variety is key. Not all varieties sold in the nurseries produce heads the size of those in the grocery store, nor do they all have high yielding side shoots. Unfortunately, I just ran to the garden and the grackles have carried away this year's broccoli marker, otherwise I'd have shared the name of the best performer I've had in years. I too am eating a ton of broccoli these recent weeks! Cut those heads and see what your side shoots will begin bearing. I suppose you could also experiment with a very light shade cloth...but I suspect the plants have started the blooming cycle and you may not be able to back track. Eat hearty! Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the > size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the > base of the head. What can I do to stop this? --------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello again Kerr Family,

It's been an unusually balmy winter and most cool season crops are performing as they would more reasonably be expected to do in March when the days warm in a more typical pattern. I don't consider your broccoli's activity unusual: we consume what are the flower buds and they are doing what they do naturally which is produce pretty yellow flowers.

The answer is to share the broccoli with your neighbors, find every conceivable recipe for broccoli you can, or learn how to freeze it. As to its size, my personal experience suggests that the variety is key. Not all varieties sold in the nurseries produce heads the size of those in the grocery store, nor do they all have high yielding side shoots. Unfortunately, I just ran to the garden and the grackles have carried away this year's broccoli marker, otherwise I'd have shared the name of the best performer I've had in years. I too am eating a ton of broccoli these recent weeks!

Cut those heads and see what your side shoots will begin bearing. I suppose you could also experiment with a very light shade cloth...but I suspect the plants have started the blooming cycle and you may not be able to back track.

Eat hearty!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

It's Feb 1 and my brocoli are bolting. The heads are about 2/3 the size of store brocoli, but there are yellow flowers forming at the base of the head. What can I do to stop this?

--------------3CBC5E1A2435DA24D46717F7-- From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:50 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:50:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Hummingbird gardens Salvias, penstemons, zauschnerias, fairy dusters (calliandras), aloes, mallows, lavenders...I could go on and on. Better than that, I'll direct you to our online publication whose chart not only shows which flowers are apt to attract these delightful little critters, but also what time of the year the plants bloom so you can have year round color! It's AZ1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Have fun! Linda Guy Master Gardener jerrymarkell@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Am starting a hummingbird garden in Mesa would > like a list of plants for a drip irrigated > area to attract hummingbirds for our enjoyment > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:53:28 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 14:53:28 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis You're way out of my league! But do try a few of these fun sites: www.howstuffworks.com howthingswork.virginia.edu www.madsci.org Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener sprchal@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > hi! > i was wondering if you knew how atrazine > effects photosynthesis? if not, do you > know any site which could help me with > this bilogy question? > > thank you, > sarah prchal > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2000 15:13:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Soil Conditioning I may be old-fashioned, but I believe that Mother Nature is a powerful energy that can take care of herself well; quite well if we assist a bit. I've never been overly concerned about construction detritus....A few years back I converted a old common bermuda lawn, and turned up construction slag, nails, etc from when the house had been built in 1955. No real harm had seemed to come to any of the plant material, old or new. I'd start by raking out the big chunks of whatever is left, put in at least 4 to 6 inches of compost material and water very very well. Let the material cook in the soil at least two weeks before planting. For the kind of soil we have and the kind of gardening it appears you want to do, adding organic material is the single best thing you can do, besides leaching with water. I only use compost and basic organic fertilizers so I'm not familiar with OMNI. I do know that we don't often recommend gypsum, and you can read about it in our publication on nutrients at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1020.pdf Linda Guy Master Gardener ClaireASP@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have just recently had an old,plain block wall fence stuccoed and painted. Unfortunately this is an area where I plant flowers along it, in the Spring and the Fall.I didn't plant any flowers this past Fall, because I knew that we were going to do this project. But I would like to plant flowers again this Spring. I always amend my soil with OMNI, Bone Meal,and gypsum before planting my flowers. What I would like to know; Should I do anything else to the soil, since it has been exposed to all the cement and paint chemicals. Naturally, alot of that stuff gets watered into the soil.I hope that you have a suggestion.Thanks! h > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:27:43 EST Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:27:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Starting a New Lawn Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Turf Grass @ http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/prep.html Good luck. Rodhttp://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From dblimke@msn.com Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:13:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 19:13:16 -0700 (MST) From: dblimke@msn.com dblimke@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page where do you start with a area that has no grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 04 Feb 2000 15:35:24 -0700 Date: Fri, 04 Feb 2000 15:35:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Starting a new yard from scratch Hello! And Welcome to Arizona! We moved here from Illinois about five years ago and while I love it, gardening here felt like gardening on the moon to me at first! Which is why I enrolled in the Master Gardener program. The course gave me a good foundation for gardening in the low desert and enabled to share what I have learned with others. That said, may I recommend a book that I find very useful? It is the Sunset Western Garden Book and it can be found at most nurseries, garden centers and home centers such as Home Depot. The first section of the book is a Plant Selection Guide and is broken down into categories such as: "Plants to use near swimming pools" which was one of your questions. Its great - it lists trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, perennials. Nice photos and it directs you to the plant encyclopedia section for details about each plant. It also has a good section on watering techniques, which is crucial information for this area. If you haven't done so already, please take a look at our web site: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ You can find a lot of useful information here including a Timely Tips section which is a month by month calendar for gardening, an archive of past questions asked regarding Landscape problems, and be sure to check out our events calendar! In March the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension service will be presenting the Basic Desert Gardening Series, a series of classes useful to anyone new to the valley. For more information on these courses you may contact Lori Thompson at (602) 470-8086, ext. 309. Finally, my husband and I visited the Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum to familiarize ourselves with low desert plants. We got ideas for trees, shrubs and plants that we wanted to incorporate into our yard. Then we interviewed several landscapers before deciding on the one we wanted to work with. We looked for someone who was willing to work with our ideas and fine tune them into a workable plan. I hope this helps. Maybe some of my colleagues will have more information that will help. Good Luck to you! Don't let the idea of creating a brand new landscape scare you. Just take it a step at a time, get ideas of what you like and it can be a lot of fun. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer cadblimke@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > where do you start with a area that has no > grass, no plant, just dirt? you have to also understand I am from Illinois so things are really not what I am use to. We have a large yard and not sure of what to do. I want to split the back yard up between gravel and grass. Because there maybe a pool going in, in the future. But I want to put in plants that will go with the pool when if happens. Plus we have a Puppy who like to > run around the yard which is causing a lot of dust both inside and outside. As you can see there are problems here any suggestions as to where to start would help. I am not even sure if this is the type of questions you want to answer so if it is not please just say so and I will start looking for answers in another area. Any help will be great. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:05:25 EST Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 19:05:25 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Landscape and pool planing If your future plans call for a pool I would suggest that you contact a pool company for a layout and find out what part of your yard will be affected by the construction equipment required to build your pool. You could then have a landscaper give you a design that would be the least affected when you do build the pool. There is loads of information on the project you are about to undertake in the Master Gardener Manual which is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck. Rod. From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:16:50 EST Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 20:16:50 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis Concerning the question about ATRAZINE and how it affects photosynthesis.. ATRAZINE is a carbon based compound found inherbicides and some pesticides (for ants and some slugs). Obviously, as an herbicide to kill unwanted plants and vegetation, it disrupts the photosynthetic cycle of a plant, resulting in eventual death. If you go to the web and search for ATRAZINE, many sites are revealed that can further discourse beyond my immediate knowledge. I do know that there are groundwater issues revolving aroung this chemical as a major pollutant. This was a good question and I hope the lead proves interesting. From pfhagen1@uswest.com Fri, 4 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 17:51:41 -0700 (MST) From: pfhagen1@uswest.com pfhagen1@uswest.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are starting a new garden. Is there a list of vegetable varieties available that do well in Arizona? We are located in New River, AZ, elevation approximately 1,350'. We'd like to be able to print out some information or have it sent to us. Happy gardening, may God bless us with good weather! From Tabeauaz@aol.com Sat, 5 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 15:52:38 -0700 (MST) From: Tabeauaz@aol.com Tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, these maybe stupid questions, so bare with me- are in-door ficus trees decidious? My recently acquired one is shedding it's leaves like crazy. And, is it possible to take clippings from ivy plants and wandering jews and start new plants( will they grow roots in water and /or how do I successfully go about this? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:26 EST Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:32:26 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus Tree shedding leaves It is not uncommon for Ficus benjamina trees to drop their leaves when moved or subjected to a change of temperature. Wandering Jew is quite easy to start from cuttings; I've simply put the cuttings in a container of water. You can also put the cutting in a container of potting soil that you keep moist, they root quite fast. I've not tried the Ivy but it should work the same. Good luck. Rod From zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:11:09 -0700 (MST) From: zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com zreid_85_2000@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some information if (you have any) about growing Irish potatoes in old rubber automobile tires, how a person would go about this process, whether or not it is supposed to be better than planting potatoes in a regular garden row and if so why would it be better than growing them in a garden row, and whether or not it would extendv the growing season of fall Irish potatoes. Thank you. From tigre@theriver.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:18:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 12:18:48 -0700 (MST) From: tigre@theriver.com tigre@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page how to prune roses? From ebdive2@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:17:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 14:17:38 -0700 (MST) From: ebdive2@aol.com ebdive2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Can you please name 3(if there are that many) desert trees which grow rapidly and can do so with no supplemental watering; if it needs a week or so of h2o to begin, that is possible. Thank you for any help you can provide. Elizabeth From cjscountry@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 16:29:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 16:29:02 -0700 (MST) From: cjscountry@aol.com cjscountry@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to know how to best prepare a vegetable garden, specifically fertilizing (best type and procedure). Thanks much! From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:40:32 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:40:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Lettuce Seedlings Hi Suzanne, It could be that you simply planted the lettuce seed too early in the fall, when lettuce still thinks its summer out. Lettuce usually requires cooler soil temps as well as air temps. Your experience of produce being rejuvenated late winter is common; in fact it is a bit early given our particularly balmy winter. Most of the cool season crops go into a pseudo suspended animation when the sun gets low and temps drop, reviving as the sun rises on the horizon bringing springtime. I personally have had poor carrot experiences. For our clay soils, short blunt nosed varieties are said to be the best. A fellow gardener at Az Herb Assn once shared that he added lots of amendments to loosen up the soil for the particular portion of the bed that was for carrots (higher percentage of organic material and even some fine gravel/pumice, as I have for plants like herbs, to improve compaction and drainage). Linda Guy Master Gardener Suzanne Castillo wrote: > Hi Linda, > > Because I started my garden in the summer, I had a lot of problems with "things" eating my seedlings, so I went out to a fabric store and > bought some cheap netting and covered all my beds. This helped. I did the same for the fall, but my carrots never germinated and my greens > started to come in but never got past the two leaf stage. They held on for a long time and then finally died off. Now after almost a month > and a half my radishes and carrots have all of a sudden decided to come up?? I am trying to hang in there, but it is hard. Any suggestions > to get my greens going better? > > Thank you for responding to my e-mail. > > Suzanne > > ps: my two oldest kids 5 &4 love the process and my 11 mo. just loves the dirt, so for them I almost can't stop (smile) > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > Dear Mommy of 3 (how neat!) > > > > Have you watched the activity in your garden? Are you experiencing a lot of birds, who love those darling seedlings? Seems like you are > > otherwise doing well, since your germination rate is so good. How about other critters chomping at them? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > mommyof3@home.net wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase > > > why? They stayed like this for months. > > > > > > 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:51:51 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:51:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Fertilizer Schedule We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public library. If you want to order it, instructions are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I am interested in a fertilization chart > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:56:26 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 09:56:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Human Biomass Requirements I've given out these websites before for questions like yours. They come in handy when our seventh grader ponders the cosmos! My other thought would be to connect with the Biosphere in Oracle, Arizona. If anyone knows how much biomass is required per human, they should. www.madsci.org howthingswork.virginia.edu www.howstuff works.com www.wsu.edu/druniverse Linda Guy Master Gardener I abayha@msad71.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My sixth grade students are trying to find out how much plant biomass is needed to produce enough oxygen to support one human. I found your site through askjeeves, then through the AZ cooperative extension. Would you know the answer to tis, or have other sites which might be helpful? Thank you very much for any assistance you can provide. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:04:31 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 10:04:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Citrus Young trees are pruned sparingly, removing sucker dead limbs are also removed. Allow a young tree to grow a few seasons before trying to achieve symmetry, which it will with age. If you take off the leaves that fuel the tree's production capability, you're limiting your crop. Wait until frost threat is gone and spring growth commences to prune. Pruning mature citrus is more a matter of aesthetics. They require little, other than removing dead wood and thinning inside shoot growth. Again, eliminate all suckers below the bud union. Linda Guy Master Gardener hteckhoff@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know when the best time is to prune citrus trees in Tempe. > H. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Ljames1375@aol.com Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) From: Ljames1375@aol.com Ljames1375@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? Thank you Laurel From goldnanc@aol.com Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) From: goldnanc@aol.com goldnanc@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to this. So I am forwarding to the list. Sue --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Goldnanc@aol.com Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the list managers, see your request. If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your email address. When you send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have immediate access to the collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. Many lists allow only those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it will just need approval. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer . Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > > Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > can't get the information thru you. --------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared in the Arizona Republic recently. It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From mmardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Carnations Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From mmardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Roses I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N 8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From emardick@brg.com Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as particularly well adapted: Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, Celebrity, Red Express, Champion and Patio I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection for container gardening, I'm told. Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate (fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What are the best varities of tomato plants > for this area. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. Linda Guy Master Gardener greygoat@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check out the listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for the month in question. May is the time to start lawns http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm Ella Mardick wrote: > arid_gardener > When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf You can review what the plant material looks like at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm And for more reference material on design, you can use http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy your parts from them. Linda Guy Master Gardener mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > > My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > > Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > > Thank you for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. Linda Guy Master Gardener gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mmardick@brg.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:21:12 -0800 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 11:21:12 -0800 From: Michele M. Mardick mmardick@brg.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they= grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea= rose bushes. At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu >You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > >arid_gardener digest > >Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > >--__--__-- > >Message: 1 >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) >From: Ljames1375@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you= tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this= grass for AZ? > >Thank you > >Laurel > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 2 >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) >From: goldnanc@aol.com >To: < >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. = There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. = Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with= something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? =20 > > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 3 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >boundary=3D"------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to >this. So I am forwarding to the list. >Sue > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 >Content-Type: message/rfc822 >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >Content-Disposition: inline > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 >Message-ID: <<389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 >From: Sue Bass < >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) >X-Accept-Language: en >MIME-Version: 1.0 >To: Goldnanc@aol.com >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener >References: < >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=3Dus-ascii >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note= and >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has= been >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include= such >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non= subscribers and >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve= it >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information.= The >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we,= the >list managers, see your request. > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the= address >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid= Gardener. > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to= your >email address. When you >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you= have >immediate access to the >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the= list. >Many lists allow only >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as= soon as >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. = Please >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your= question, it >will just need approval. > >Sincerely, >Sue Bass >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > . >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which= was >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with= e-mails. >> >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route= if I >> can't get the information thru you. > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 4 >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST >To: tigre@theriver.com >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which= appeared=20 >in the Arizona Republic recently. >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes= =20 >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of=20 >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed= =20 >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms=20 >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing =20 >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too= =20 >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base= of=20 >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an= =20 >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every= year.=20 >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by= supplying=20 >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty= =20 >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned= =20 >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and= the=20 >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best=20 >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and= crossing=20 >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to= =20 >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of= the=20 >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice= =20 >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and=20 >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes= grow=20 >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an= open=20 >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work= =20 >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center= of=20 >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest= from=20 >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store= up=20 >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth.=20 > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for= =20 >the bush to start growing again. > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune= earlier=20 >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for= the=20 >bush to turn around. > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller= =20 >areas to prune) > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union.= =20 >This also encourages new basal breaks) > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This= =20 >will prevent cane borers. > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to= dip=20 >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > =20 >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a=20 >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for= =20 >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush..= Leave=20 >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This= method=20 >is best for the average garden.=20 > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few= =20 >large long stemmed blooms of show quality.=20 > > HYBRID TEAS > =20 > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut= =20 >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle,= sloping=20 >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other= =20 >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes= =20 >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the= crown.=20 >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new= =20 >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes=20 >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the= bud=20 >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed.= =20 >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the=20 >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This= will=20 >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This= =20 >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the= =20 >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy= =20 >canes. Remove 1/3 to =BD of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > FLORIBUNDA > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are= more=20 >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes= =20 >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes,= =20 >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3= of=20 >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > GRANDIFLORAS > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > MINIATURES > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to =BD= of=20 >the bush. > > SHRUBS > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like= the=20 >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut= =20 >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences.= =20 >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned= during=20 >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any= dead=20 >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back= to=20 >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best= =20 >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6= =20 >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a=20 >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune= =20 >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut= out=20 >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. =20 >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the= =20 >soil around it with a good fungicide. >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > =20 > > PRUNING TIPS > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > Clean all debris from around the bush. > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane= =20 >borers. > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and= =20 >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the= soil. > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten= =20 >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the=20 >disease. > =20 > >--__--__-- > >Message: 5 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Carnations > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one= gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in= AZ? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 6 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: "Michele M. Mardick" < >Subject: [AG] Roses > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I= can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any= way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > ><<<0000,8080,0000<<M<< ><<<<<0000,8080,0000<<I C H E L E <<<M<<= <<<A R D I C K <<<B= <<<L A I N > ><<<<<8080,0000,8080<B<<<<8080,0000,8080<<USINESS= <<R<<ESOURCE= <<G<<ROUP > ><<<6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > >480-367-5023 direct > >480-367-5001 fax > ><<<0000,8080,0000<mmardick@brg.com< > >--__--__-- > >Message: 7 >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Ella Mardick < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >--__--__-- > >Message: 8 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: jdoucet@futureone.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as >particularly well adapted: > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > and Patio > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection >for container gardening, I'm told. > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> What are the best varities of tomato plants >> for this area. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 9 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: greygoat@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and= it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the= female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common= on >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You= might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies= since your trees are engulfed. > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly= review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and= recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect= these at >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E.= Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on= both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to= the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of= it? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 10 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: Ella Mardick < >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the >Master Gardener Manual at >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check >out the listing at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > >Ella Mardick wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 11 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself= why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication= on poolside landscaping at >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > >You can review what the plant material looks like at >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library= therein based on your wants, needs and environment. >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > >And for more reference material on design, you can use >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you= want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid,= transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even= the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials= chart for you for free if you buy >your parts from them. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design= services. >> >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our= backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone= to lay out the design plan for us. >> >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the= design service. >> >> Thank you for your assistance. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > >--__--__-- > >Message: 12 >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" < >To: gordieFS@aol.com >CC: Arid gardener server < >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid= defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and= not try to simply water it in. > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a= very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone.= Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10= inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in= February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit= before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March.= Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of= the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or= brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus= fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I= watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could= over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there= anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for= your help!! >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - < > > > > >--__--__-- > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > 0000,8080,0000M 0000,8080,0000I C H= E L E M= A R D I C K B= L A I N 8080,0000,8080B= 8080,0000,8080USINESS= RESOURCE= GROUP 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85253 480-367-5023 direct 480-367-5001 fax 0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com From ALNorris@aol.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:59:43 EST Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 14:59:43 EST From: ALNorris@aol.com ALNorris@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris Over The Garden Gate - TRN From heseig@msn.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:41:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 09:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: heseig@msn.com heseig@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help!! This is the 2nd year our cirus trees lemon,orange& grapefruit have had their leaves turn yellow right from early stage ( almost speckled looking) then thetips turn brown and then fall off. fruit is sparse but still on the limbs. Ar first we thought it was because of not enough water but we changed to more and that didn't help. We thought maybe because we didn't fertilize but that didn't help. The people we lived here before had their gray water from the washing machine going to the trees do you think that helped or hurt the trees? We get new leaves and blossoms but when fall/winter comes the trees are barren of leaves. 1 young tree has not been affected!! Any suggestions? Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:45 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:11:45 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Web site Al: Here is the web site for the Maricopa County Master Gardeners: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer ALNorris@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you have a web site? If so may I have the address. I am attaching the web > site of Wichita County, Texas, Master Gardeners. Thanks Al Norris HREF="http://www.overthegardengate.org/">Over The Garden Gate - TRN > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cherrijw@juno.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:12:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 11:12:56 -0700 (MST) From: cherrijw@juno.com cherrijw@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to plant a lemon tree, but am not sure what type does best in Phoenix. We have an irrigated lot that faces south. Any suggestions would be appreciated. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:12:49 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 15:12:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] My questions were not answered? Please respond! THX. Hi Michele, We are just a few Master Gardener volunteers doing the responses. You are among the most recent querents in my inbox of about 25 unanswered questions. You are not forgotten, but sometimes it will be up to a week before we are able to research and respond to a question that we don't already know stone-cold because of our training and/or personal gardening experiences. Hang with us! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I get carnations? Where should I plant them? How well do they grow in Avondale? How can I grow long stem roses?. I have 18 Hybrid tea rose bushes. > > At 12:00 PM 2/8/00 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the web, visit > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >You can reach the person managing the list at > > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than > >"Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > > > >arid_gardener digest > > > >Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ljames1375@aol.com) > > 2. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (goldnanc@aol.com) > > 3. [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] (Sue Bass) > > 4. Pruning Roses (rodmcq6@aol.com) > > 5. Carnations (Michele M. Mardick) > > 6. Roses (Michele M. Mardick) > > 7. Bermuda grass (Ella Mardick) > > 8. Tomato Varieties for Phoenix (Linda A. Guy) > > 9. Cocoons in cypress trees (Linda A. Guy) > > 10. Bermuda grass (Linda A. Guy) > > 11. Landscape Design Referrals (Linda A. Guy) > > 12. Overfertilized Citrus (Linda A. Guy) > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 1 > >Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 20:37:06 -0700 (MST) > >From: Ljames1375@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >I am looking for an Imperial Star Artichoke plant, and also what can you tell me about zoysia grass I see advertised in the Sunday paper. Is this grass for AZ? > > > >Thank you > > > >Laurel > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 2 > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 11:10:41 -0700 (MST) > >From: goldnanc@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > >We live in a condo complex in North Scottsdale with desert landscaping. There is a white film on the stones around some buildings, but not others. Is this a problem with too much acid or alkaline and can it be treated with something? Will it kill off the plants/shrubs growing in this area? > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 3 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:27:44 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >boundary="------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67" > >Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Mail sent to Arid_gardener] > > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >Sorry gang, I forgot to include the cc: on my response to > >this. So I am forwarding to the list. > >Sue > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67 > >Content-Type: message/rfc822 > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > >Content-Disposition: inline > > > >X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 > >Message-ID: <389F2A70.FEC04D71@uswest.net> > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 13:26:24 -0700 > >From: Sue Bass > >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; I) > >X-Accept-Language: en > >MIME-Version: 1.0 > >To: Goldnanc@aol.com > >Subject: Re: Mail sent to Arid_gardener > >References: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > > >As one of the listserve managers, please allow me to respond to your note and > >explain. The University of Arizona has asked us to monitor all in-coming > >requests from non subscribers of the Arid Gardener listserve. This has been > >asked of us to prevent our inadvertently passing on SPAM, which can include such > >undesirable e-mail as pornography. We welcome questions from non subscribers and > >whenever we get a legitimate gardening question, such as yours, we approve it > >right away so that one of our members can respond with helpful information. The > >note explaining that approval is necessary is sent automatically before we, the > >list managers, see your request. > > > >If you would be interested the e-mail list, you may visit our site at the address > >below, which will take you directly to the page to subscribe. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/lists.htm > >This page also shows other e-mail lists available in addition to Arid Gardener. > > > >When you join an email list, all information posted to the list is sent to your > >email address. When you > >send a question to the list, it instantly goes to all subscribers so you have > >immediate access to the > >collective knowledge of all the members. There is no charge for joining the list. > >Many lists allow only > >those subscribed to the list to post messages to the list. > > > >In the meantime, please expect to receive a response to your question as soon as > >one of our members with knowledge pertinent to your question can respond. Please > >do not feel obligated to subscribe. We will indeed respond to your question, it > >will just need approval. > > > >Sincerely, > >Sue Bass > >Master Gardener Volunteer > > > > > > . > >Goldnanc@aol.com wrote: > > > >> If this is the case, then it should have been noted in the article which was > >> in the Arizona Republic last week. You are listed as a place to write or > >> call for online assistance with gardening questions. Maybe you should > >> clarify with whomever wrote the article or you may be inundated with e-mails. > >> > >> Thanks for getting back to me so quickly though. I'll try another route if I > >> can't get the information thru you. > > > > > >--------------082D00E088FFDFE289CD1F67-- > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 4 > >From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > >Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2000 17:11:01 EST > >To: tigre@theriver.com > >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: [AG] Pruning Roses > > > >I'm enclosing an article on pruning roses by Mary Lou Coffman which appeared > >in the Arizona Republic recently. > >It is time to prune your roses right now. Good luck. Rod > > > > > > > > > >WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? > > > > The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes > >to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of > >dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed > >to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms > >larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing > >highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too > >thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of > >the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an > >adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. > >(These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying > >new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty > >years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned > >will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the > >flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best > >blooms for the next 3-4 years. > > When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing > >canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to > >each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the > >two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance > > Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice > >your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and > >performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow > >from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open > >center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work > >toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of > >the bush and those that grow into the center. > > > > > >PRUNING: When to begin. > > > > Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from > >the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up > >sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. > > When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for > >the bush to start growing again. > > The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier > >you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the > >bush to turn around. > > > >EQUIPMENT NEEDED: > > > > Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) > > Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) > > Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) > > Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller > >areas to prune) > > Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. > >This also encourages new basal breaks) > > Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This > >will prevent cane borers. > > A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip > >shears in after cutting diseased canes. > > > >TYPES OF PRUNING: > > > > LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a > >larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for > >floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. > > > > MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave > >6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method > >is best for the average garden. > > > > HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few > >large long stemmed blooms of show quality. > > > > HYBRID TEAS > > > > Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut > >1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping > >down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. > > Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other > >canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes > >fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. > >If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new > >replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes > >leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud > >union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. > >The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the > >leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. > > Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will > >open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This > >also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the > >canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy > >canes. Remove 1/3 to � of the bush. Remove all foliage. > > > > FLORIBUNDA > > Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more > >compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes > >are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, > >cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of > >the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. > > > > GRANDIFLORAS > > Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. > > > > MINIATURES > > Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to � of > >the bush. > > > > SHRUBS > > Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the > >Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut > >back about 1/3 of the bush. > > > > CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS > > Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. > >These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during > >the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead > >or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to > >8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best > >blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 > >canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a > >horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. > > Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune > >lightly in the spring to shape the bush. > > > > ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. > > Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out > >any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. > > > > DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS > >Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. > > > > CONTAINER GROWN ROSES > > These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. > >Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the > >soil around it with a good fungicide. > >Shape your rose bush as you prune it. > > > > > > PRUNING TIPS > > > > Remove all leaves form each bush. > > Clean all debris from around the bush. > > Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane > >borers. > > Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and > >insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. > > If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten > >percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the > >disease. > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 5 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:40:31 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Carnations > > > >Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 6 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:43:26 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: "Michele M. Mardick" > >Subject: [AG] Roses > > > >I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > > > >0000,8080,0000M > >0000,8080,0000I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > > > >8080,0000,8080B8080,0000,8080USINESS RESOURCE GROUP > > > >6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > > > >Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > > > >480-367-5023 direct > > > >480-367-5001 fax > > > >0000,8080,0000mmardick@brg.com > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 7 > >Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2000 14:48:57 -0800 > >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >From: Ella Mardick > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 8 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 08:52:47 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: jdoucet@futureone.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Tomato Varieties for Phoenix > > > >Our publication MC22 Tomatoes in Desert Gardens list the following as > >particularly well adapted: > > > >Cherry types: Small Fry, Sweet 100, Cherry & Yellow Pears > >Slicing types: Early Girl, Columbia, Spring Giant, Heartland, > >Celebrity, Red Express, Champion > > and Patio > > > >I have had good personal experience with Early Girl (only 60 days to > >mature), La Roma (62 days), Champion, Celebrity (70 days), Sweet 100 (70 > >days) and Better Boys (70 days). Patio is a particularly good selection > >for container gardening, I'm told. > > > >Consider your space availability. If limited, choose a determinate > >(fixed size) variety. They often grow to their size, bear fruit, then > >abate. Indeterminate vines grow very rangy, take a little longer to set > >fruit, but keep bearing as long as conditions are favorable. > > > >Notes from my old Master Gardener training suggest that the large > >beefsteak type tomatoes don't perform well in the low desert. If you > >want to see the publication on tomatoes, go to the reference section of > >your local library or see how to order it and other pubs at: > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > >Hopefully you saw the excellent article on tomatoes in last Wednesday's > >garden page of the Arizona Republic, too. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >jdoucet@futureone.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> What are the best varities of tomato plants > >> for this area. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 9 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:06:10 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: greygoat@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Cocoons in cypress trees > > > >I spent some time looking through the Master Gardener Entomology Manual and it seems that you may have bagworms, but I can't be entirely sure (the female moth is wingless and remains in her bag). They are supposedly common on > >junipers, and handpicking is listed as the most effective control. You might ask your favorite nursery for any other chemical-based strategies since your trees are engulfed. > > > >You can also bring a sample of the cocoons to our offices for a weekly review by local staff and volunteers of plant problems, diagnoses and recommended solutions. There's a box on the Master Gardener desk to collect these at > >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Maricopa County, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >greygoat@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 10 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:17:51 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: Ella Mardick > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Bermuda grass > > > >It's a bit early for bermuda seed, but you can spend the next few months > >learning all about lawn installation. First there is a section in the > >Master Gardener Manual at > >http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html > > > >We also have some excellent Home Horticulture publications on lawn > >establishment which are not online at this time, although you can check > >out the listing at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn > >You might notice in particular, MC 18 & 35, as well as 8539 and 8752. > >You can see all these in the reference section of your public library, > >or order copies at the same web page (go to the top of the page). > > > >If you are ever in need of information on timing of garden activities, > >our Timely Tips will tell you what should be happening in your yards for > >the month in question. May is the time to start lawns > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm > > > >Ella Mardick wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> When is the best time to plant Bermuda seed for the summer? > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 11 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:31:26 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Landscape Design Referrals > > > >If you have the ability and the gumption to do all the planting yourself why not give the design end a try too? You could check out our publication on poolside landscaping at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf > > > >You can review what the plant material looks like at > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm > > > >We also have some software that lets you query the plant material library therein based on your wants, needs and environment. > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm > > > >And for more reference material on design, you can use > >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm > > > >Any good designer is going to ask you a number of questions on what you want for form, color, texture, seasonal needs, style (oasis, arid, transitional, etc.). You can ask yourself the > >same questions! Once you have a design on paper, any sprinkler store (even the Home Bases and Depots) will lay out an irrigation system and materials chart for you for free if you buy > >your parts from them. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. > >> > >> My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. > >> > >> Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. > >> > >> Thank you for your assistance. > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >Message: 12 > >Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 09:49:03 -0700 > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: gordieFS@aol.com > >CC: Arid gardener server > >Subject: [AG] Overfertilized Citrus > > > >Indeed, overapplication of fertilizer can cause severe leafburn and rapid defoliation. In the future, you should remove the spilled fertilizer and not try to simply water it in. > > > >I'm not entirely sure of the best recovery strategy. I would suggest a very, very deep watering to move the fertilizer out of the root zone. Indeed, one of our old pubs on citrus suggested a deep soaking (8 to 10 inches) in January to leach salt, leading into normal irrigation in February and March. But if you do this, you must let the soil dry out a bit before resuming a 2 to 3 week interval typically used starting in March. Excess water can lead to cholorosis and various root rots. > > > >I'm sorry for your mishap and hope you are able to hold on to your tree. > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >gordieFS@aol.com wrote: > > > >> arid_gardener > >> My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Arid_gardener mailing list > >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >> Archives - > > > > > > > > > >--__--__-- > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > >End of Arid_gardener Digest > > > > > > > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:46:03 -0700 Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2000 13:46:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Carnations Michelle: Carnations can be grown here althought I have not done so myself. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book there are two distinct categories of Carnation, which are actually in the dianthus family. Dianthus caryophyllus. One is a border carnation, which I have seen at Home Depot, It is bushier and more compact than the second type, which is the Florist carnation. The border carnation grows to 12-14 in. high. Flowers 2 to 2-1/2 in wide, fragrant, are borne in profusion. Effective as shrub border edgings, in mixed flower border, and in containers. Some of the varieties listed are "Juliet" which makes compact, foot-tall clumps with long production of 2-1/2 in. scarlet flowers. "Luminette", 2 ft tall, is similar. Pixie Delight strain is also similar but includes full range of carnation colors. Knight series has strong stems, blooms in 5 months from seed; Bambino strain is a little slower to bloom. There is also a strain called simply, Hanging Mixed, with pink or red flowered plants that sprawl or hang from pot or window box. I would personally go with a container grown plant at this time of year because I think it would be tough for a new plant from seed to make it through the first summer. My book also states that Florists' carnations are grown commercially in green houses, outdoors in gardens in mild-winter areas. Greenhouse grown plants reach 4 ft, have fragrant flowers 3 in. wide in many colors. For large flowers, leave only terminal bloom on each stem, pinching out all other buds down to the fifth joint, below which new flowering stems will develop. Stake to prevent sprawling. Start with strong cuttings taken from the most vigorous plants of selected named varieties. I hope this is of some help to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener Where can I buy Carnation plants? I have found one at Home Depot, In a one gallon pot. Where should I plant them and how well do they grow here in AZ? > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 22:42:43 -0700 (MST) From: LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. Thanks From geek@inficad.com Tue, 8 Feb 2000 17:17:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2000 17:17:12 -0700 (MST) From: geek@inficad.com geek@inficad.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Tip Top refered me to you regarding the provision of a list of plants that are poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- tion, it would also be helpful to know symptoms I should note in a dog that has eatten a poisonous plant. Thanks. From Gregcm2@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:11:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:11:02 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1.Can I do anything now to prevent aphids on my tomatoes and herbs? From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:54:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 14:54:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening Classes As luck has it, there is JUST such a class for you this Saturday (2/12) at the Maricopa County Extension Office. You can check this and other possibilities on our Gardening Calendar at http://video2.agforbes.arizona.edu:8080/maricopa/ If this doesn't work for your schedule and you still want some information, write me back! Linda Guy Master Gardener LNLCURTIS@USWEST.NET wrote: > arid_gardener > Where do we go and what do we do to begin vegetable (grow box) gardening in Mesa Arizona? (Val Vista & Broadway) > We have never done it before and are anxious to learn. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:19:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 13:19:38 -0700 (MST) From: royce.hicks@luke.af.mil royce.hicks@luke.af.mil Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do I need to fertilize the soil for planting Sunflowers in the Glendale area. Out here we have soil filled with rocks and sand? In other words what soil preperations are required for planting Sunflowers in the West Valley soil? Hicks From aanran@cybertrails.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:25:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 14:25:18 -0700 (MST) From: aanran@cybertrails.com aanran@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. Thanks for an answer!! From LChristini@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:23:24 EST Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 17:23:24 EST From: LChristini@aol.com LChristini@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost after planting a young ficus natida tree, a frost hit it, browning most of the top of the tree. New growth is coming in around the bottom of the tree, but not too much of the top. My concern is, should I cut back the top, or wait to see if will come around. I really don't want to cut the top back, afraid it will distort the shape of the tree. Any advice? From DaedalusCz@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:41:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 11:41:44 -0700 (MST) From: DaedalusCz@aol.com DaedalusCz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to the area. We bought a house with an established garden. There are 4 Acacia Trees on the property. Each seem to be of a different species.All but one of them has retained their leaves thru the winter months.I have looked through a lists of Acacias and have only found one(The Sweet Acacia) that is listed as deciduos. I am certain that it is not that species. I broke off a twig and found it was still supple, but I am not sure that is not dying. The leaves began to fall after I changed the seasonal watering system. The other trees only partially shed. The tree is 20 feet tall and established for about 4 years.It had long 10" leaves, similar to my weeping acacia (the only one I could identify. Questions: Is this nothing to worry about, should I do something to insure its reblooming, or is it too late? Is there a way I can identify the species of my 4 trees, as each has a different shape and flower? From renior307@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:18:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 10:18:34 -0700 (MST) From: renior307@aol.com renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior From barn@primenet.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:07:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 08:07:18 -0700 (MST) From: barn@primenet.com barn@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is it time to fertilize roses and what kind of fertilizer should I use? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:25:09 -0700 Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2000 16:25:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Poisonous Plants for Dogs I found a web site that you might find quite useful! As a pet owner, I did. The address is: http://www.healthypet.com/Library/prevent-12.html The page above has a comprehensive list of plants, household products, etc, along with codes that show what type of toxin they are (gastrointestinal, neurological, etc.) I think if you check out their entire site, they probably have lists of symptoms too or at least a link to where you can get that info. The address for the site in general is www.healthypet.com Sue Bass Master Gardener geek@inficad.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Tip Top refered me to you regarding the > provision of a list of plants that are > poisonous to dogs. If you have the informa- > tion, it would also be helpful to know > symptoms I should note in a dog that has > eatten a poisonous plant. > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From paradiseoasis@uswest.net Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:40:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 16:40:56 -0700 (MST) From: paradiseoasis@uswest.net paradiseoasis@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant sunflower seed? Also I have a chilean mesquite tree that is about 5 years old and it hasn't grown at all since it's been planted. Is there something wrong with the tree or is it still adapting to it's environment? It loses its leaves in the winter and I usually cut back the frost damaged twiggs in the spring. It's planted on the SW side of the house and get pretty much full sun. And get regular deep watering. From jljake1957@aol.com Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 19:33:48 -0700 (MST) From: jljake1957@aol.com jljake1957@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to grow a lilac here. I had one growing well at my previous address in a NE exposure. However, it always seemed to be reaching for the sun. I've tried two since moving, I have all exposures available in which to plant it. The plants don't seem happy no matter what I do - too much sun here, too little there. Any suggestions? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:12 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:20:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvilleas Hi again FPO, There is no pub dedicated to bougainvillea. These are usually shaped up in early spring after any chance of cold damage has passed. This can be relative, depending on where it is planted because a north exposure will stay colder longer. It is evergreen during a mild winter but can die back to ground level when temps drop below mid-twenties.. If the plant was well established, it will come back from its base when the weather warms. During the vigorous growing season in summer, prune back the fast-growing long shoots to encourage development of the colorful bracts. Another sure way to maximize color is to stress the plant for water a bit. Ample H2O will lead to a lush but green specimen. Linda Guy Master Gardener Frank Osendorf wrote: > Thanks, Linda. I have ordered relevant publications. One more question. > Is there a publication that details pruning instructions for boganvellia > (sp) bushes? > > Thanks for your help. > > F. P. O. > > "Linda A. Guy" wrote: > > > We have a good publication, which is not, unfortunately, online. It's > > 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona, and you can see it along with > > our other Home Horticulture Pubs in the reference section of any public > > library. If you want to order it, instructions are at > > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top > > > > I ran into a neat chart at the following website; if you back it up a > > notch you'll also get good instructions on watering. > > http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/grow.htm > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > fosendorf@stcloudstate.edu wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I am interested in a fertilization chart > > > for citrus trees. What to apply, when, > > > and how much. These are newly planted trees. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:40:04 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:40:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Watering Rosemary Two possibilities come immediately to mind. First, although rosemary is an excellent plant for our locale, my personal experience with Mediterranean herbs is that they have the best chance of thriving their first summer if planted very early spring, preferably autumn, to get well-established before that first blast of desert heat. If you planted late spring or early summer, [unless it was placed in filtered shade which it will not prefer long term] you increase your chance of losing the plant. However, your note suggests you drowned your plant. These plants can tolerate just about any kind of neglect [once established] except poor drainage. If it was put in largely clay soil without amendments to improve movement of water, your drip schedule was far more than the plant required. [When I first established my herb beds, which contain many of the Mediterranean herbs, I not only added lots of compost but a truck load of 1/8-minus gravel to improve the drainage in this particular area for this very reason.] In this bed, the rosemary [4' around in less than two years] gets a hose thrown on it perhaps once monthly in the summer to saturate the soil. I don't usually water it in winter, but have thrown the hose on recently since we've had so little rain. Similarly, another 4' rosemary in my xeriscape landscape gets a couple gallons monthly on a drip line in winter. In the summer, its likely twice monthly. I believe this is reasonable because all the other plants on the line were selected for their low-water usage. You need to let the soil dry out. And you might also consider capping one of the drips at this site. If your rosemary is on a line that must run long and/or often for other plants, I would keep it on your drip system the first summer, get it established and cap the drip entirely in year 2 and beyond. They simply get too woody [or die] if they get overwatered or overfertilized. Toss on the occasional hose in drought conditions. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener aanran@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you recommend amount of water a Rosemary plant should receive during summer months, also winter months? > A newly planted one died last summer. It was watered using two drippers, each two gal's per hour. Was watered for twenty minutes every five days. > Thanks for an answer!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:00:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 10:00:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Papyrus Hi Renior, Papyrus is a bog plant; it is also a tropical which means it has higher need for humidity. They flourish with an inch or two of water above their roots, planted in containers of soil, and this is easily achieved in a pond setting. But they are also, believe it or not, submerged in a similar fashion and kept on patio or indoors. You 'damp' area may be inadequate to the task; also there is less humidity than when in a pond or larger container of water. These are full sun to partial shade plants. Mine have always leaned toward the sun when blocked by the shade of a nearby tree, which I ultimately removed for the health of my pond. Unless your area is filtered shade, it sounds like you might need to find a better location. I'm not saying you cannot plant it in a non-water garden setting, just that it could be more fussy. I would suggest buying a wide plastic container, like those used for water lilies, and plant it in ground in the container. You can keep it a lot more moist that way, and not overwater adjacent plants. And more importantly you will contain what can become a weed! We often recommend a container strategy for other invasive plants like herbs, which need good drainage produced by cutting out the bottom first. But in the case of a marsh plant, I'd suggest leaving the container bottom in tact. I have only just completed my annual pond cleaning. Last spring, I put one papyrus division of about 4 to 5 inch diameter in a three foot wide pot and in one year it is already totally overgrown. This is quite typical. To divide it, I remove the root ball and saw through it, giving away the divisions. [I have some if you are interested in more!] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener renior307@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the ideal siol and situation to plant a creeping fig? How can I make my recently planted varigated cast iron plant more "varigated". Someone suggested rose food. They are for the most part basic green. Also, I planted a papyrus (not the umbrella variety-but real "Nile papyrus) in a shady rather damp part of my garden. Will it prosper or does it really need a pond like setting? That's all for now. thanks, Renior > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dspjnp@hotmail.com Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:08:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 16:08:27 -0700 (MST) From: dspjnp@hotmail.com dspjnp@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Scottsdale, AZ 85254, what region or zone is this considered to be? From amussi@az.freei.net Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:57:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 22:57:10 -0700 (MST) From: amussi@az.freei.net amussi@az.freei.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring I planted a bouganvillea plant. Almost a year later it is looking pretty dismal. No flowers and sparse leaves. The branches also look white. My question is should I gi