From tate@dzn.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:33:31 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:33:31 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [AG] Genetically-Engineered Agriculture Hello, There seems to be a number of people getting paranoid over Genetic Engineering. You can get some knowledge about the subject by going to http://www.organicgardening.com/articles/article1_a.html Some people maintain that Monsanto, DuPoint, and others are in the field of genetic engineering in order to make a dollar. That's how you got your toast, orange, eggs, and bacon for breakfast this morning. I thought this was the American way so what's so improper in making money. Do any of you have some feeling about the subject that you are willing to divulge? Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From antiquefreek@aol.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: antiquefreek@aol.com antiquefreek@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat bermuda). From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 05:31:46 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 05:31:46 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] barriers / weeds You might want to use a vertical barrier at the edge of your lawn to keep the rhizomes from traveling. Mostly, weeds only grow where water is applied. Black plastic is very bad for trees, etc. because the ground moisture condenses on the underside of the plastic and roots tend to develop on top of the soil.....thereby not anchoring the plant very well. Plastic keeps air, as well as water from traveling freely in the soil and tends to promote fungus in that way. It is a very hard thing to remove once you realize that you don't want it under 6 inches of gravel.......... I don't find weeds much of a problem in any of the spaces I've removed the plastic in the 6 years I've been doing it. And I didn't replace the plastic with anything..... On Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) antiquefreek@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front >and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the >gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes >in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen >a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow >rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most >closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. >Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an >alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass >and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat >bermuda). > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jklaz@dellnet.com Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:37:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:37:52 -0700 (MST) From: jklaz@dellnet.com jklaz@dellnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you advise me on how often and how much water I should be giving the following : 1)trees-both native and non. 2)shrubs. 3) flowers. 4)grass.? Thanks. From guru@samoaone.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:50:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:50:25 -0700 (MST) From: guru@samoaone.com guru@samoaone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ From Renior307@aol.com Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:27:08 -0700 Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:27:08 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley Renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Desert primroses I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:38:18 EST Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:38:18 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering trees, shrubs and grass You should find your answers on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From blum@ix.netcom.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:06:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:06:11 -0700 (MST) From: blum@ix.netcom.com blum@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please recommend varities that are disiease resistant and bug reseitant in our cimate, small mostly organic garden, NW side--need beans, carrots, tomatoes (multiple varieties), squash, zucchini, peas, lettuces, cucumbers, small corn, peppers (multiple varieties) and any other basic veggies that do weel here (again, in a very small garden). From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 03 Jan 2000 11:13:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 11:13:06 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Urban Homeowner Tree Care clinic --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic Saturday, January 22, 2000 Sponsored by: Arizona State Land Department Arizona State University Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc FREE to the public The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic. Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance. This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance. This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise. There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged. Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis. Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd. Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1. The Arboretum at ASU ASU Visitors Information Center 826 E. Apache Blvd Tempe, AZ 85287-2512 480-965-8467 FAX: 480-965-9333 web site: http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic
Saturday, January 22, 2000

Sponsored by:
Arizona State Land Department
Arizona State University
Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc

FREE to the public

The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic.  Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance.

This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance.

This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise.  There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information.  Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day.  Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged.

Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.  Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. 

Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd.  Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1.

The Arboretum at ASU
ASU Visitors Information Center
826 E. Apache Blvd
Tempe, AZ 85287-2512
480-965-8467
FAX: 480-965-9333
web site:
http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:00:13 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:00:13 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Kerr Family - one other note. YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely = tolerant of "salt" in many different forms. In fact, bermudagrass is = often used to reclaim old salt waste lands. It should be tolerant of = anything in your pool backwash and the deep flood-type irrigation from = the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, whether actively = growing or winter dormant. Hope that all of this information and the = great Extension information sheet recommended by Linda Guy help you out. mike hills *************************** -----Original Message----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Kerr Family Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water Hi Kerr Family,=20 First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating = chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic = operation. The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used = to have a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to = give you some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited = their facility on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's = an interesting place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)=20 It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note to = our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be = interested. (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20 Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe = for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and = the publication lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to = salt content. Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my = Master Gardener training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool = water. The publication is available by mailing $1 to:=20 Home Horticulture Publications = University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension=20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20 Good luck!=20 Linda Guy=20 Master Gardener=20 Kerr Family wrote:=20 How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and = hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for = plants or is the sodium concentration too high? ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kerr Family  -  one other=20 note.   YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely tolerant of=20 "salt" in many different forms.    In fact,=20 bermudagrass is often used to reclaim old salt waste = lands.    It=20 should be tolerant of anything in your pool backwash and the deep = flood-type=20 irrigation from the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, = whether=20 actively growing or winter dormant.   Hope that all of this=20 information and the great Extension information sheet recommended by = Linda Guy=20 help you out.
  mike hills
 
***************************
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Linda A. Guy <laguy2@primenet.com>
To:= Kerr=20 Family <dmkerr@dancris.com>
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM
Subject: [AG] = Treatments for=20 Chlorine & Sodium in Water

Hi Kerr Family,=20

First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating=20 chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be=20 inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic operation. The = Arizona=20 Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used to have a commercial = hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to give you some = advice. It's=20 been about 3-4 years since I last visited their facility on a conference = tour,=20 but they were good people and it's an interesting place to spend an = afternoon.=20 (PN 995-1624)=20

It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note = to our=20 list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities=20 of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested.=20 (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20

Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: = Safe=20 for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from=20 washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the=20 untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and the publication = lists=20 categories of plant materials by susceptibility to salt content. Bermuda = grass=20 is not listed, by I seem to recall from my Master Gardener training that = it=20 'eats' salt and would accept pool water.  The publication is = available by=20 mailing $1 to:=20

           &nbs= p;            = ;            =      =20 Home Horticulture Publications=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;           =20 University of Arizona Cooperative Extension=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;       =20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;         =20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20

Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener=20

Kerr Family wrote:=20

How can I get chlorine out of tap = water for=20 watering houseplants and hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable = for plants=20 or is the sodium concentration too=20 high?
------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:44:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:44:06 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Republic Gardening section Hello Gardeners of Maricopa County As many of you are aware, our MG Republic Writing Team has been working for the last 9 months with the Arizona Republic on their gardening information pages. Any of you who have seen the Republic since Jan. 1st are aware that they are greatly changing the enitre paper's format this year. These changes include the gARDENING page(s), BUT I am glad to report that our local Extension office, Terry, Lucy, Cathy Rymer and our Master Gardener Republic Writing Team will all still be involved. They will also still be pulling gardening events info from our website to report in the gardening section and other "what to do" areas of the paper. We are still fine-tuning the exact details of our relationship, but the bulk of the gardening information for their readers will still originate from our efforts with Maricopa County Extension information (YEAH!!) - in fact, the editors told us specifically that they do not want to use a lot of wire service generic gardening stuff that is not appropriate here. Rather than Saturday, this will now be in a special magazine style section of the Wednesday paper - apparently this move among many other changes is in response to many reader surveys that the Republic has done the last year to try and update and better serve their customers. This new 2000 gardening information section will be in the "Good Life" section of the "Smart Living" pullout in each Wednesday edition of the Arizona Republic. WHY AM I TELLING YOU ALL ABOUT THIS, YOU ASK??? I would request that anyone who receives the Arizona Republic on Wednesdays check out the gardening section the next few weeks and give Cathy Rymer and I any constructive criticism and feedback (positive and negative). We don't have a lot of say in how things will be done, but it is all still in the development stage and the edoitors do value our suggestions, so your input to us will be helpful in our next planning meeting with the editors. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE PAPER'S MAIN FOCUS IN THIS GARDENING SECTION WILL BE FOR THE NEW GARDENER IN THE AREA, SO DO NOT EXPECT A LOT OF MORE ADVANCED INFORMATION. Terry is going to keep covering some of that in his part of the section, but our Master Gardener writers will be covering basic topics and a lot of "how-to" information - especially based on the types of seasonal and repeat questions that flood our MG hotline each year. Anyhow's, just wanted to request your thoughts and input. Thank you again to the many of you that have been so helpful and supportive of our efforts this last year. We are really looking forward to more fun with this project in 2000. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Director, Educational Materials Chair, Master Gardener Republic Writing Team email mhills_sro@msn.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:47:54 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:47:54 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] bermuda removal, winter Tilling will actually bury a lot of the rhizomes and you may have a continuing problem with bermuda recurring as a weed. Actually digging out the bermuda and removing it may work better than just tilling it under. The best results are to wait until it is actively growing and use a Round-up type spray chemical a couple of times. However, bermuda seed and hay growers in the Arizona and California do a fairly good job of getting rid of old bermuda fields when they are rotating to a new crop, such as lettuce or melons. AND, often they do this in the winter. In general, they take advantage of the freezing tempoeratures during mid-winter to help them kill the bermuda stolons (surface "runners") and rhizomes (underground stems). Deep tilling the bermuda sod up and leaving as much of it rough and exposed as possible is the best. Some very cold freeze nights as we are getting now and on into February will really help to freeze the exposed bermuda growing points. As much as possible, DO NOT water the bermuda once you start exposing it to the cold. Dry conditions are better to help the cold air kill the bermuda. (this is contrary to the advice when you are using chemicals to kill it in summer - then it needs to be watered to keep it actively growing and taking up the chemical). Every week or two or three during this cold period, till the area again and each time, leave it roughed up with as much root surface exposed to the air as possible. Sometime after the last killing frost, you shuld be able to final till the soil, add your amendments and start planting. Of course, removal by hand of any exposed rhizomes and stems all along will also help, but I think the dry and cold will do you a lot of good. This should do a pretty good job and by March you could begin to plant. you will still need to watch for any little bermuda sprouts that pop up in April or May as temperatures warm up - pull or dig these isolated bits as soon as you see them, while they are still weak and stress AND before they have a chance to start spreading. Policing the new garden for bermuda closely the first year should work. Good Luck! mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener ****************************** -----Original Message----- From: kclizman@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 5:05 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > >I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at home is not really helpful. Thanks for your assistance. From rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:26:43 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:26:43 -0700 From: Roger Huber rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule PLEASE REPLY TO: "barb" Can you please send me via e mail a watering schedule for citrus trees in Scottsdale and also watering for various schrubs and flowers during the entire year...thank you ....happy new year..... "barb" From grenner@gateway.net Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:20:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:20:23 -0700 (MST) From: grenner@gateway.net grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:33:07 EST Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:33:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite The Chilean Mesquite grows so fast that you will probably have to prune it several times a year. Never prune more than 25% off the tree at one time and not more than 1/3 in a year. I've just finished an article on pruning for the Arizona Republic; it is unedited and I've not finished the drawings yet, however I'll send the text to you. Why not attend the Home and Garden Show at the Fairgrounds this weekend. I'll be doing a talk on pruning on Friday at 11:30. There will be other Master Gardeners doing talks thoughout the weekend. Hope this info is helpful. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to ½ of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to ½ of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:29:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:29:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cats in the landscape We get this question a lot and I wish I had a fool-proof solution for you, but I don't. Some past suggestions that we have given people have been to use the store bought preparations (I use Repel) but I know that you have to keep applying this regularly because the effects do wear off - especially after rain. Some people use pepper spray and pumice, which hurts cats paws so they do not like walking on it, but again, this has worked for some and not well for others. One of my colleagues has used humane, live traps and returned the cats to their owners with a polite explanation. Another suggestion that has been made in the past is surrounding the area you want to keep them out of with chicken wire, but this is not practical if they are using your entire landscape, like they do mine - well, the front yard anyway, we have a Great Dane in the back and have only had one cat venture in there and it left very quickly. One thing I have found is that you have to completely remove the soil which they have "soiled" otherwise the odor left behind attracts other visitors. Perhaps some one else will see this note and hit upon an idea that we have not yet covered here. I'll keep my eyes open too for any new suggestions. Its a tough one and a big aggravation for gardeners. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer grenner@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NenaC@AOL.com Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:28:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:28:02 -0700 (MST) From: NenaC@AOL.com NenaC@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? From Louise_Howden@webtv.net Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:46:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:46:46 -0700 (MST) From: Louise_Howden@webtv.net Louise_Howden@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 5 Jan 2000 07:19:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 07:19:47 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite The best time is coming up in January and February for pruning most trees ~ at the end of their dormant season / beginning of most growth period. However, you don't want to take so much off that your interior tree is subject to sun scald, splittling the bark and exposing wood to disease and insect attack. Those small branches growing along the trunk help it to thicken and become strong. Shorten them if necessary and eventually remove them about the time they are the diameter of your thumb. Mesquite are naturally similar to umbrellas and make wonderful shade in this hot valley. However, this shape traps wind (like an umbrella) so you may want to thin the branches to allow wind to escape without damaging your tree. Remove whole branches to do this back to the attachment and try to leave very little stub. Each limb has a sort of collar where it is attached at the base ~ leaving this collar helps the tree to heal the wound. When you shorten a long horizontal limb, look for an outward facing leaf or minor branch attachment, or one going in the direction you favor for the branch because that is the point of the next growth for that branch. Don't remove more than 1/3 of the tree in any one year. Pruning often stimulates growth and sometimes can lead to surprising shapes. Think carefully about the size and shape you are wishing to promote. Good thoughts, not luck! On Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) Pacsmith@att.net writes: >arid_gardener >One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. >Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the >top and >outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at >trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim >it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? >What is a good >resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our >book at >home is not really helpful. > >Thanks for your assistance. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:29:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:29:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Gardening I see your question has been around a while, so I referred it to a colleague whose specialty this is, hoping she'll have some time to respond soon. In the meantime permit me to make two suggestions. First, this weekend's Mrixopa County Home and Garden Show which starts tomorrow, has a container gardening program at 4:30 pm on Friday, 1/7. We (Master Gardeners) are doing the clinic, and I wouldn't be surprised if the colleague to whom I referred your original question is the person presenting! Next, The Arizona Herb Association's February meeting will deal with the topic of Container Gardening. Check out the group's calendar of events at: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/Calendar_Of_Events.html Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gjblackham@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to get information on container gardening; flowers and greenery, not vegtables. I would like what will grow well during the summer and winter in full sun and shade. I am having a difficult time getting this information. Thank you Sharon Blackham > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:36:56 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:36:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Pygmy Palms As a rule, palms look considerably better with appropriate fertilization, including some micronutrients. This is typically done in mid spring and again in early summer. We have an excellent discussion of fertilizer in our Arizona Landscape Palms publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Specialty palm fertilizers are easily purchased here in the valley. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener dgilbert@amug.org wrote: > arid_gardener > Wanted to find out what type fertilizer or plant food I need for Pgymy Date palms and fan palms. Also do cactus need any type of fertilizer or food outside in my yard. They were just planted two months ago. Thanks for any help you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and used the more traditional technique of systemic herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend battling the bermuda over the years may not be worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth season in the summer) truly is a virtue! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener kclizman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > > I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:59:19 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:59:19 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite In addition to the Maricopa County Home and Garden Show, the Arboretum at ASU is also sponsoring an Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic, free to the public (must preregister however) on Saturday 1/22. Check it out at http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Pacsmith@att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. > Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and > outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good > resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at > home is not really helpful. > > Thanks for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:48:42 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:48:42 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pear Varieties for the Phoenix Metro Area I do not have recent personal experience with pears, but I am unfamiliar with an 'evergreen' variety. All pear trees I'm aware of, including oriental or asian pears, are deciduous trees. If you are looking for a particular variety of fruit, I would suggest consulting the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual, which is available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties Many local nurseries have pear stock. The most important consideration for fruit production will be the number of chill hours the tree needs in the winter months in order to bear. As you might suspect, we require the minimal number here in the Valley. If you are in the higher elevations of North Scottsdale, you may experience more cold than we do in the central city, however. Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener NenaC@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:50:55 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:50:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise We have a publication called Backyard Grapes (MC 59) which is not unfortunately, available online. Send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications,University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. As you suspected, now is the time to prune grapes (early January to late February). This publication also has good information on fertilizing, irrigation and pest/disease control. We also have a printed publication on the Yellow and Red Birds of Paradise (MC 44) which is missing from my home reference library. You might call the Master Gardener desk at 602/470-8086 to ask if pruning is covered in the material. They should be able to provide guidance by phone, but if you want this publication, too, you'll need to send an additional $1. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener . guru@samoaone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:29:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:29:02 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite I would like to offer a tiny correction to the advice to prune a mesquite this time of the year. The cool part of the year is very inadvisable time to prune all desert legume trees, such as mesquite. They appear to have great limb die back and may be more susceptible to other infections when pruned at this time. The optimal time to prune them is when it is hot, from about April on. However, you should be aware that pruning later in the summer, from about July onwards, may also present a different kind of problem. The natural response to pruning in all trees is a stimulation of the production of new shoot growth. But this response can be overwhelming, particularly for mesquites when they are pruned too late in the hot weather. Consequently, you end up with twice the problem you had in the first place. So, timing is everything, but then isn't it always. Mary From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 06 Jan 2000 12:56:26 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 12:56:26 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass Hi there: My partner and I had great success starting a vegetable garden in the middle of our Bermuda patch without digging or using poisons. Skeptical? So were we. We used a technique known as "sheet-mulching." We were amazed at how well it worked--in fact we will probably never dig up Bermuda again. In a nutshell, sheet mulching involves putting down layers of nitrogenous matter (e.g., animal manure, blood meal), some sort of barrier layer (we used corrugated cardboard), and plant "debris" (fallen leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc.) on top of the weeds (i.e. Bermuda grass). Last February, we followed the steps outlined in _Introduction to Permaculture_ by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (see full reference below), watered the "heap" for about an hour, covered the heap with a tarp (to keep the dogs and cats from running through it), and let it sit for a month. A few weeks after we removed the tarp, we decided to ahead and plant Swiss chard and arugula in the sheet mulch area. Both were quite successful; in fact, the chard is still going 10 months later. As an added bonus we got a surprise pumpkin out of the process--must have had some seeds in the compost we used. A little later in the season we planted tomatoes and eggplant in the area, and they seemed to thrive as well. While this technique requires some patience too, it requires a lot less work than the dig-and-sift approach we used in our past gardening efforts. If anyone is interested in how to sheet mulch, contact me off the AG list via E-mail. I can send copies of the relevant pages from Mollison and Slay's book via the post. Here's the reference info: Introduction to Permaculture by B. C. Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (Contributor) Paperback - 224 pages Revised edition (November 1997) Ten Speed Press ISBN: 0908228082 Good luck and happy gardening. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 6 >Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" <> >To: >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn > >When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my >husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and >replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to >do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of >the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and >used the more traditional technique of systemic >herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will >have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend >battling the bermuda over the years may not be >worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth >season in the summer) truly is a virtue! > >Good luck! >Linda Guy >Master Gardener Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From lm1127@webtv.net Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:23:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:23:11 -0700 (MST) From: lm1127@webtv.net lm1127@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Pruning Acacia & Lysiloma What is the best time of year to prune these trees? My Acacia is a small multi trunk tree (3 1/2- 4 yrs.old) I have occasionally pruned lower branches and it looks pretty good. Now it looks like it's ready to have several more removed, but I don't want to do it the wrong time of year. I also have 2 Lysilomas. The one gets the puff balls followed by the pods, but the other one doesn't. They are both 3 1/2 - 4 yrs. old. Could it be the one is a different tree? Also , I have the same pruning question for these trees. Thanks for any advice. Linda From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:39:27 -0800 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:39:27 -0800 From: George Sifuentes sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in color. Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 15:32:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 15:32:38 -0700 (MST) From: sifuentes1@juno.com sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP. I received an Araucaria Heterophylla pine (Norfolk Island Pine. Can this tree survive here. can I plant it outside, if so how and when, is it frost tender, etc. Thanks From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:14:26 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:14:26 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE George, Your plant is a Norfolk Island Pine, botanically known as Araucaria heterophylla (used to be A. excelsa). It will be 10 ft tall or more at maturity, but it might not get that large here. Plant it on a north facing wall, be sure that it gets plenty of moisture in the summer and that the site it not too terribly cold in the winter. When very small, I would protect it from frost. They are also very good container plants on a patio or in very bright room, in which circumstance they will not get nearly as tall as in the ground. Mary George Sifuentes wrote: > arid_gardener > I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE > or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in > color. > Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can > I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From grenner@gateway.net Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:04:20 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:04:20 -0700 From: grenner grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Thanks! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. I'll = try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've placed = my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks for all your suggestions regarding = the cat=20 litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what = works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area = and we'll=20 see if that stops them.
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400-- From tarimul@aol.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:43:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:43:59 -0700 (MST) From: tarimul@aol.com tarimul@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! Hi, The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity sprinkler. The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look up the garden magazine again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:13:15 -0700 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:13:15 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For years, we have planted ours on St. Francis Day (October 4). -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: hursday, January 06, 2000 8:43 PM > When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:53:22 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:53:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii Nena, The Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii is listed as being suitable for our low desert climate zone and is a beautiful tree when in bloom, however it is subject to so many problems that I personally would not consider planting it. It is subject to iron chlorosis, zinc deficiency, fireblight, crown gall, root knot nematodes, and Texas root rot. The tree during our hot summers does not look very attractive. If after all this you still decide to plant the tree there should be several nurseries selling the tree. Good luck, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:55:05 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:55:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule Barb, Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation. It should give you the answers you need. Good luck. Rod http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From mghbird@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: mghbird@aol.com mghbird@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to prune bouganvilla and how much to cut off From nikita53@juno.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:34:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:34:09 -0700 (MST) From: nikita53@juno.com nikita53@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small buisness in the Gilbert Heritage District. I am looking for a landscaping program that allows students to plan and apply. If there is such a program please contact me as soon as possible. The area I need to have done is considered in the Heritage District of Gilbert. It would provide a great work experience for students in all phases and would also help a small buisness owner on a very strict budget out. From Aaaorvca@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:16:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:16:46 -0700 (MST) From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Aaaorvca@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When and at what frequency, do I need to ferilize? I have 2 orange trees, 1 lemon, 1 grapefruit, and 1 tangerine tree All are less than 6 years of age, with the exception of the grapefruit tree. From cflook@icgconsulting.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 15:03:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 15:03:56 -0700 (MST) From: cflook@icgconsulting.com cflook@icgconsulting.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have lots of practice in pruning my hybrid tea rose bushes. I cut them back to 4-5 canes in Jan. and prune throughout the year, as my yard is small. But last spring I planted a climbing rose that has done quite well. However, I am a not sure how to prune it this month. Would love some help. Thanks - Christa From manu10@gte.net Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:03:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:03:42 -0700 (MST) From: manu10@gte.net manu10@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm working on a science project for middle school and need some help. I planted some green onions in pots. We cut tops off of matured oninos and used their stocks. Then I watered 3 pots daily with 50 degree water and 3 with 70 degree water and 3 with 107 degree water. I thought that the 70 degree water would do the best but the 107 degree water grew faster and taller. Why would this happen. I live in Hawaii and the plants were in morning shade and afternoon sun. I watered in the early evenings. does something happen to the water or did we just make the climate more perfect for the onions with the hot water. I hope that you have the time for a answer to this emial. Mahalo From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 19:54:09 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 19:54:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvillea Wait until after the danger of frost to prune Bougainvillea to minimize the chance of frost burn. Bougainvillea is quite frost tender anyway and new growth becomes even more so. You can continue to prune if necessary throughout spring, summer and fall. Good luck. Rod From dmkerr@dancris.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking. = Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes = flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is there = anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The plants in = pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My basil plants start out with large = green leaves,=20 perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get = smaller and=20 the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient=20 deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves = and no=20 flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever = seen.
------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 07:51:30 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 07:51:30 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: pruning Mexican Heather I have several Cupheas myself, a few have a hint of cold damage at this time (north face of house). I am not inclined to initiate pruning on these until we enter a slightly warmer time of the year (March mayhap?). We still have risk of cold damage, thedamaged limbs offer protection to the shrubbery underneath and were we to prune now, we would be risking more of the plants. However, I offer you this advice based on personal experience, not empirical evidence. Linda Guy Master Gardener Werbb@aol.com wrote: > Is this a good time of the year to cut back heather that is growing against > the house? From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:26:23 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:26:23 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] New Cat Control Ideas - 'Earl the Dead Cat' --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however. If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot. Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this. The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat". Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!! Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls. Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time. Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often. Linda Guy Master Gardener grenner wrote: > Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. > I'll try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've > placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops > them. --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however.

If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot.

Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this.

The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat".  Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!!

Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls.

Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time.

Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

grenner wrote:

 Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them.
--------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Basil Growth Habit --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family, Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors). For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer. You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for > cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant > makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is > there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The > plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family,

Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors).  For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer.

You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring.

Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen.
--------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50-- From mike.todd@asu.edu Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:27:17 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:27:17 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: Re(2): [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass-longish laguy2@primenet.com writes: >Thanks Mike, > >It's been so long since I read and took classes on Permaculture >techniques that >I had totally forgotten about this. 'Brainset' would have been aided and >abetted if I'd actually done a few of the techniques and could speak from >experience, in addition to book learning! > >I'm interested in your material. But I am also interested in the >longevity of >this solution. You say it worked first season. How many summers has this >pea >patch seen and what has been your experience with recurrence of bermuda? >Could >you post your response to the server, too (minus the attachment, I mean)? >Thanks, >Linda The bed has been through one summer only. Although clayey and heavy, the soil in our yard is pretty good to begin with compared to a lot of desert soils. Even so, back in October when I planted some O'odham I'toi onions, I was very impressed with how friable (and weed-free) the soil in sheet mulched area was given how little effort went into soil improvement. Here are some more details on what we did and our experience: 1) We edged most of the bed with some old landscaping timbers and bricks to help minimize Bermuda infiltration. 2) The only places where Bermuda has appeared is at the edges of the bed and in a couple of the places where we pierced the cardboard to plant the chard, etc. Where the grass has popped up in the middle of the bed, it has been remarkably easy to pull out. 3) All layers except the upper layer of "hard" organic material (leaves and stalks from our Carrizo [Arundo donax]) have "returned to the earth", which leads me to the next detail... 4) Sheet mulching is not a one-time task (Mollison points this out in his book). This is something one does annually as a way building productive soil as well as controlling weeds with a minimal input of energy--whether from your muscles or from the processes involved in the manufacture, packaging, and shipping of synthetic fertilizers and poisons. We also put a "hybrid" bed right next to the sheet mulch area. In this patch, we used the dig-and-filter approach where we dug down 4-6", removed the soil, and picked out the rhizomes and stolons (as best we could). We then put cardboard down in the bottom of the resulting hole. We then blended the filtered topsoil with store-bought organic matter (peat, "forest compost", steer manure) along with sand and gypsum to counteract the undesirable properties of the clay soil. We wet the cardboard and sprinkled it with some blood meal and manure and then put the amended soil in the hole. We also edged this bed with timbers. While both beds produced very well, the hybrid bed had more Bermuda popping up as well as a noticeable accumulation of salts in the soil--although I haven't actually had soil from the two beds tested to see if one side is saltier than the other. I guess we'll need more time to see the results of this little "split- plot" study. I hope this helps. -mike t. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:05 EST Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus An excellent bulletin titled Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix Az. 85040. Also most libraries will have this bulletin available in the Master Gardener Bulletin Manual which you can photocopy. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:06 EST Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Climbing Roses Christa, I'm enclosing a portion of an article written by Mary Lou Coffman on pruning climbing roses. If you still have questions, there will be rose pruning demonstrations throughout the valley this month put on by the valley rose societies. If you live in the East Valley there will be demos at Pioneer Park Rose Garden on January 15 and 22 and at Mesa Community College Rose Garden each Saturday morning this month. If you haven't seen the MCC Rose Garden it will be worth your while to come and see the over 2000 roses. Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:31:42 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:31:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! WOW! I'll bet that would work for cats and probably rabbits too! On Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST JeanSciFi@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Hi, > >The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity >sprinkler. >The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look >up the >garden magazine again. > >JeanSciFi@aol.com >Master Gardener Volunteer >Apache Junction, AZ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From info@viapro.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:55:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:55:55 -0700 (MST) From: info@viapro.com info@viapro.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Watched TV this morning about growing grapes in AZ. I'm wondering if it is possible to grow grapes in pots (lg of course)In case I move will they travel? Grapes look like fun. Thank you for your response. Have a Great Day From jrnelson@asu.edu Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:41:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:41:54 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How should I prune the creosote bushes that grow in our yard. The have grown leggy and unattractive so I cut them back severely. Now I want to encourage them to grow more densely and and limit their height to about 36 inches. From jrnelson@asu.edu Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:45:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:45:22 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 14 "dwarf" oleander plants growing on the east side of a 6' concrete block fence so they receive lots of sun. I have recently cut them back and now want to grow them so the foliage is up from the ground, perhaps as much as 12 to 18 inches. Please recommend how to achieve this outcome. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:47:54 EST Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:47:54 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Oleanders for special effect JR, You can start pruning off the lower branches until the crown is to the level that you want. Be sure not to prune more than 1/4 of the bush at one time and not more than 1/3 in one year. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:15:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:15:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Moving Dwarf Lime Tree I'm trolling for input on removing a dwarf Mexican lime out of the landscape and putting it into a very large patio container. The lime was a 10-gal plant 2.5 years ago when it was put into a large bed. Currently canopy diameter is 4.5 to 5 feet. Trunk diameter about 4 inches. Good producer. Any thoughts on the most appropriate time of year and other special treatment/considerations would be much appreciated. Is one particular container better than another for this purpose. Thanks, Linda Guy From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:23:51 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:23:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] North Wall Shrubbery I've been doing my research and now would like to ask my fellow colleagues about personal favorites for shrubbery on a north facade under the roof eaves. Full shade Nov-Dec-Jan. Midday sun in hot summer months (until about 2-3pm when an adjacent screwbean mesquite throws some filtered relief). This is a fundamentally a native/xeriscaped yard. I'd like 3-5 feet height, similar width. No preference for color (foliage or flower). Security plant (i.e. thorns) would be great since these are under windows; however, this isn't necessary. I would prefer evergreen/semi-deciduous to deciduous. Currently there are baja (red) fairydusters there. They don't look bad, but tend to be leggy, as you might expect. I'd like to update the area. I've been scanning my landscape cd and have some ideas, but would like to hear from you, too. Any suggestions (and why!). Thanks! Linda Guy Master Gardener From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 06:50:33 -0700 Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 06:50:33 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: BASIL Use a nitrogen fertilizer and always pick flowers off. You may be able to get your plant to live a couple of years but the flavor will decrease. Mine did the best in the shade of grapes here near PHOENIX. On Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 "Kerr Family" writes: >My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for >cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant >makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is >there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The >plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. From GeorgeandShell@juno.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:31:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:31:28 -0700 (MST) From: GeorgeandShell@juno.com GeorgeandShell@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? From odaat@ibm.net Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:35:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: odaat@ibm.net odaat@ibm.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? Best regards, Don D. From tate@dzn.com Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:40:49 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:40:49 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [AG] Sheet Mulch Here's a beautiful site that explains the technique of sheet mulching. http://www.agroforester.com/articles/Sheet_Mulching.html Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:45:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:45:57 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] male Persimmon trees I have a friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma who has several male Persimmon trees in his back yard, southern exposure. The branches are being neatly cut off at the bases by, he thinks, either net worms or web worms. He sprays with some kind of pesticide periodically but the problem persists. I don't know what his watering or fertilizing practices are. Is there anything he can do to get rid of this problem for good? Thx, Judy From jconrad@azstarnet.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:50:00 +0000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:50:00 +0000 From: Julie Conrad jconrad@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Smartscape Hi Carol, Do you know if this workshop will be offered again? Any chance for a Tucson version? Thanks Julie Conrad From Designscapes@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:39:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: Designscapes@uswest.net Designscapes@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I have a quick question for you. I have just recently purchased a home whereby the backwash from the pool has been being discharged for several years and looks as if it will have to continue to be in an area where I would like to plant some plants. I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! Do you have any suggestions for some plants that might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! Sincerely, Brett Sweetser From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:37:19 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:37:19 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Bell Pepper Question from Home-Hort WWW page Bitter taste is often due to stress, either not enough water or lack of nutrients. You might also try other sweet pepper types. Gypsy is pretty productive here as is Cubanelle but they may not get as large as the California bells. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- , Monday, January 10, 2000 8:35 AM > I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, > However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? > Best regards, > Don D. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:28:16 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:28:16 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] ROSE TREES HERE IT IS JAN AND MY ROSES ARE BLOOMING BEAUTIFULLY. I HATE TO CUT THEM BACK. WHAT SHOULD I DO? THANKS. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:37:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:37:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Using Pool Backwash for Plant Irrigation In the same website where you found us, we have a listing of available publications on a variety of topics. Some are even available online. You can find it at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil To specifically address your question, we have a pub which is not, unfortunately, available online. It is 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe for Plants? and it lists various categories of plant material by their abilities to tolerate salt, etc. Although not listed, bermuda lawns are good candidates to receive the water from a backwashed pool, in addition to natal plum, rosemary (doesn't like overwatering, however), Texas rangers, euonymus, oleander and bougainvilla (although the latter produces more of its colorful bracts when a bit stressed for water). Send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Designscapes@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I have a quick question for you. I have just > recently purchased a home whereby the backwash > from the pool has been being discharged for several > years and looks as if it will have to continue to be > in an area where I would like to plant some plants. > I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine > rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! > Do you have any suggestions for some plants that > might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much > if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have > checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! > Sincerely, > Brett Sweetser > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From m1afreeman@aol.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:05:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:05:23 -0700 (MST) From: m1afreeman@aol.com m1afreeman@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. Mark From maritza@azstarnet.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:57:06 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:57:06 -0700 From: Mary Swift maritza@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #76 - 7 msgs I am trying to reach the hydroponictomatoes crop web site which is supposedly on the AG.Arizona.Edu site. Netscape says they cannot access. Any idea of how we can access this site? Thanks Frank Swift From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:20 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:20 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sunchokes May is okay for planting. In the low desert of Maricopa County, Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes, should be planted late enough in the spring such that the new tender green sprouts will not be killed by frost and early enough so they can complete the growing cycle before the first winter frost frost. Because they take over 6 months to mature, this suggests planting the tubers anytime from late January through the end of May. Summer heat is no problem, because as sunflowers (Helianthus tuberosus, they thrive in it, but while they are growing they will need plenty of water. It helps to shade or mulch the roots. They can be a bit invasive; if any tubers or parts of tubers were left in the ground when you plowed them up, you will certainly have them come up again this year. So I would suggest waiting until the end of March - you may not need to replant. Good Luck! Olin Miller >From: "Toni L. Allen" >To: >Subject: sunchokes >Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:29:27 -0700 > > >... Sunchokes: We planted >them last year, don't recall date---bought them at Albertson's one >morning and they were in the ground that afternoon. Think it was >April. They were doing well, then they got plowed up!!!! Been advised >to plant them in May. I'm wondering if that is advisable---just seems to >me that they'd be battling for survival in the heat of >summer???? ...> From restez@home.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:47:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:47:38 -0700 (MST) From: restez@home.com restez@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water does torchfire bougainvilla need this time of year? Mine looks dry and brownish is spsots. From tabeauaz@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:11:53 EST Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:11:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea, watering in the winter Bougainvillea, if established at least a year will do very well in the winter without water. I suspect that the brown leaves are from frost burn. We've had temperatures in the Phoenix suburbs already this winter that were cold enough to freeze bougainvillea. Wait until the new growth is well started I n the spring and then prune off the frost burned parts. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:46:11 EST Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:46:11 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Proper Irrigation for turf and trees If you are irrigating rye grass, then the once per week interval in the winter should be ok; if you are irrigating dormant bermuda then the interval is much too frequent. Once a month is plenty for dormant bermuda in the winter. Mesquite trees are simi deciduous which means it is normal for them to loose their leaves during cold weather. Most trees planted in turf here in the low desert must have supplemental irrigation in order to remain healthy. Irrigation for turf typically only penetrates 6 to 12 inches. Trees should have water penetrating to the two to three foot level. The mesquite grows very fast, and the roots that have had only shallow water will have a difficult time keeping the tree upright during some of our summer storms. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From jaresteg@nccj.org Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:30:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:30:33 -0700 (MST) From: jaresteg@nccj.org jaresteg@nccj.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:10:11 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:10:11 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Mesquite leaf drop Hi there: While it does sound like you could back off on the lawn irrigation, the leaf drop you are experiencing is most likely just the normal winter "behavior" of the mesquite. Mesquites are cold-deciduous just like many other trees. If everything is going right, the leaves you are losing will be replaced in the spring. Hope this helps. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 2 >Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) >From: tabeauaz@aol.com >To: r@Ag.Arizona.Edu> >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It >is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to >stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the >tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I >over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:53:17 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:53:17 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost protection this time of year i cover my plants every night. do i really need to if i know the temp is not going to get below 40 degrees? does it actually need to freeze (32 degrees) for damage to occur or does it just need to be cold? would really appreciate your help. r2beshon@aol.com From rcbrobin@aol.com Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:46:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:46:17 -0700 (MST) From: rcbrobin@aol.com rcbrobin@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. From Schimkemd@aol.com Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:40:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:40:28 -0700 (MST) From: Schimkemd@aol.com Schimkemd@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have some questions on grasses that grow well in Phoenix. Specifically I am looking for low growing types and wondering if Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris) fits the bill or if you have other suggestions. From jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Fri, 14 Jan 2000 23:07:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 23:07:33 -0700 (MST) From: jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find out what it will take to get them to start growing again. Thank You in advance. From saz621@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:11:28 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:11:28 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have built beds such as you describe and did not use plans per se. But what I did do was determine the height that I wanted, in my case I think it was 29 in, but you be the guide. I then made 4 posts that heigh and used cedar fence posts to finish a box that was 3 ft square. I might also add that diagonal supports can be useful if you intend to fill the entire cube with soil, it will bulge when it is wet. It is also not at all necessary to fill the cube with soil below about 18 in, you can use any kind of rubbly or stuff to fill up the space. The ones I built at in the vegetable garden at the Desert Botanical Garden if you want to go and see how they came out. Mary rcbrobin@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:55:46 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:55:46 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Greenhouse Gardening Hello up there in Oregon, Your question has been around a spell, and although I'm not an expert by any stretch, I can offer a few general observations. Since we can garden outdoors all year, I'm sure the greenhouses are also in full swing year round. A greenhouse's purpose is to manage light, temperature and humidity: with a southern or southeastern exposure, light is probably not an issue for the winter (and of course, not for the summer). Unless the plant material has specific light/dark needs, that is, which must be artificially managed. BTU requirements to maintain a 60 degree minimum temperature depend upon both the city's location/elevation and the square footage of the greenhouse itself. I simply don't know if greenhouses in Phoenix (1200 elevation) need heating capacity. In the last few winters which have been very mild, perhaps not. More necessary is cooling/ventilation equipment (we usually use evaporative coolers) to keep air circulating and cool during our blazing summers. We offer a publication on the subject Q19 Hobby Greenhouse Design Notes which is available by sending $1 to Home Horticulture Publication University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 This is more geared toward construction than it is cultivation practice, however. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener willa@gardenpod.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm from Oregon and wanted to know about the differences in your growing seasons for indoor gardening...using greenhouses. What months do gardeners have to either move their gardening inside or not garden at all? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:02:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:02:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Needed information Did anyone ever answer this gentleman? I have neither the expertise nor the reference material, and I was curious if someone did. Thanks. Linda "Leonard Faust (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that Dorsett can be used to increase the Anna crop, but can > Anna be used to pollinate Dorsetts? Leonard Faust South > Florida > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:20:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:20:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pecan Varieties for Higley, AZ Pecans can be grown successfully for landscape purposes but notes from my Master Gardener classes a few years back indicate that the tree is both a space hog (needs 30' distance from other trees and buildings) and water hog (50 gallons/day for a mature tree when fruiting). Flood irrigation is a good route for pecans. If nut crop production is a consideration and you can only plant one tree, you will need to pick a partially self-pollinating variety. For higher production, cross-pollination is a must. Western Schley can self-pollinate. Success, Wichita, Mohawk, Barton and Bradley are other recommendations for home plantings below 2000' elevation. I also seem to remember some minimum chill requirements for pecans to produce. Again, I learned in class that Phoenix has an average 450 chill hours during the winter...I suppose Higley's could be higher. Ask the nursery where you make your purchase about chilling requirements. December through February is the time to plant bareroot stock. A tree normally requires 6-8 years to produce. We have a good publication on planting pecans, including water, fertilizing, pruning, etc. It's Q303 Pecans for Landscaping and is available for $1 at Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener fil2145@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best varity of pecan tree to plant in the Higley, Az. area? Where can you buy them as a bare root? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:22:10 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:22:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation for Gardenia & Winter Turf I agree that your turf irrigation schedule is too much and is probably what is having a negative impact on your other plants. The schedule you describe may have been necessary for the initial 7-10 days when the soil surface should be kept moist for seeds to germinate. However, eventually the watering interval should be reduced to weekly (perhaps every other week in very cold weather). The objective is to water long enough to keep about the top six to 8 inches moist; let your system run 1/2 hour and then measure the moisture level with a screwdriver. Adjust the time accordingly. You risk turf disease from this watering frequency. As to gardenias, they are not the easiest plants to grow here, as they prefer acidic soil and a bit more humidity (which is not the same as frequent sprinkling from your lawn system). Generally we recommend a single deep watering weekly in the summer (every 21 days in the winter). They are particularly succeptable to chlorosis, and in addition to acidifyng material, periodic applications of iron chelate to prevent iron chlorosis, are recommended. Your gardenias are not blooming because this is not ordinarily the time of year to do so (although given recent 80 degrees in January, who knows what could develop!). Popular varieties for southern Arizona are 'Mystery', which is a larger plant, but with a short bloom period in spring to early summer, and Veitchii which is a bit smaller but a prolific bloomer during May (and sometimes into the summer). We have a good publication on the topic MC29 Gardenias and Camellias. You can pick it up (free) at the Extension office, or send your request along with $1 for the publication, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener helend5@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 2 questions. > > 1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help. > > 2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:31:44 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:31:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Yellowing Twisted Cereus If you have not already received an answer, permit me to suggest the helpline at the Desert Botanical Garden that is available Monday through Friday from 10 to 11:30am (PN 480/941-1225). Their website is www.dbg.org. I personally do not have the experience to assist you, but I'm sure the folks over there will. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bronwenjones@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My (twisted) Cereus (Senita?) has turned > light yellow. All other Cereus within > 25 feet appear normal, including a large > Suguaro. What causes this and what > should I do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:38:44 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:38:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Containing Desert primroses Desert primrose can indeed be very invasive. Lack of water can contain its growth; since they are planted under a tree with low water requirements could this be an option for you? Manual removal will be necessary (or spraying with a systemic as you noted). The other suggestion I would have springs from similar experiences with invasive herbs. I plant many in 5 gallon containers (bottoms removed) that have been buried in the ground in order to contain the root systems. You might consider trying this (or some sort of garden edging material since I don't believe this is a very deep rooted plant). Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped > flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking > that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a > shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take > them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or > whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all > my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years > ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much > appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:49:45 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:49:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Limes in Winter Hi Louise, Among all the citrus, limes are extremely cold sensitive. They need to be planted in warm areas and protected from cold and wind. They are only recommended in the warmest parts of the Salt River Valley and the Yuma Mesa. It does not sound like it has been placed in a very good location. For more information on protecting your tree against the cold, check out our publication AZ 1002 Frost Protection at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf Most limes ripen from mid to late summer through November. Fruit drop at this time seems reasonable. Did you try a few to taste them? Color is not always an indication of ripeness. (Mexican limes will be more tart than the other recommended variety, Bearss). I don't know what the blackness on the leaves is. Is the tree sprayed with water from a sprinkler (which we wouldn't recommend)? Perhaps its a mildew from a combination of water and cold. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Louise_Howden@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Recovery of Neglected Citrus Hi Jim, You indicate that the trees were severely stressed several years ago, but do not mention your care practices since that time. Sound fertilization and watering habits are a must, especially in a recovery effort. We have such a fact sheet, MC 8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus which may be of interest to you. You can pick it up free at the Extension office or send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 There are some other publications that could be of interest such as 8464 Citrus Trees in the Home Garden and 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona. Each again will cost $1 if ordered by mail. As to the issue of soil fertility, an analysis can always be helpful and will help you to target more specifically your citrus' trace mineral needs. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they > were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back > are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the > fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the > the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find > out what it will take to get them to start growing again. > > Thank You in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 14:09:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 14:09:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Nonallergenic Trees Hi Mark, Trees recommended in our publication on this topic (MC 62) include the Palo Verdes (Cercidiums), Catclaw and Sweet Acacia (which has a heavenly smell with its blooms about now; have your wife check it out at the DBG in case it will trouble her), Ironwood (Olneya tesota), Feather tree (Lysiloma), and Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis). Other trees to avoid are African Sumac, Olive and Mulberry. You should have a happy tree....most of the front yards in my neighborhood have majestic specimens over all the old septic tanks! Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener m1afreeman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. > > Mark > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) From: loriyoungdahl@uswest.net loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Texas Sage bushes in groups of four along our north retaining wall. There is space between each group of four for something else (designed by previous owner). What spot of color (doesn't necessarily have to be flowers) could be planted that has the same watering requirements as the Texas Sage. By the way, what is the proper amount and frequency of water that they need? From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:07:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:07:30 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:04:55 EST Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:04:55 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea Trellis Sandra and Phillip, I've used wood trellis for over 20 years without having a problem with termites. However the trellis that you buy at most nurseries are not heavy enough to hold the load of a mature bougainvillea. I've resorted to building my own out of 1 inch by 1 1/2 inch lumber. Good luck. Rod From rjezeski@aol.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:28:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:28:38 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I PURCHASED A ARIZONA ORANGE TREE IN JULY OF 1999,HAD IT PLANTED PROFESSONALLY,IT WAS A 24 GALLON SIZE.CURRENTLY ALL THE LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF.IT BLOSSEMED FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.NOW I SEE THAT I'M GETTING SMALL LIMBS GO DEAD. I WATER THE TREE IN THE SUMMER TWICE A WEEK FOR 1 HOUR AT A TIME,NOW I'M WATERING TWICE A WEEK BUT FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES AT A TIME.I HAVE NOT FERTILIZED AT ALL.I WAS GOING TO DO THAT IN FEBR.& MARCH. IS MY TREE DYING OR IS THIS NORMAL.MY GRAPEFRUIT TREE HAS ALL OF ITS LEAVES TURNING YELLOW. I ALSO HAVE NOTICED ON THE ORANGE TREE THE LEAVES LOOK LIKE SOMETHING COULD HAVE BEEN EATING AWAY ON THEM. PLEASE HELP ME,WE JUST MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN AND CARING FOR TREE THERE ARE DIFFERENT THEN HERE. I ALSO CUT OFF ALL OT THE DEAD BRANCHES ON THE ORANGE TREE. From milkintaz@cs.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) From: milkintaz@cs.com milkintaz@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When do we first fertilize our citrus trees this year? From godnwife@msn.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:32:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:32:21 -0700 (MST) From: godnwife@msn.com godnwife@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I removed a Mesquite tree and found numerous larva in the earth around and under the tree. Approximate size 7/8" dia by about 2" to 3" long. ivory in color and where the head was a brown color and has a pointed rear with a accordian shaped body. I removed most of them and placed them in a 5 gal.plastic bucket with earth about 1/2 full. What are they? Thank for any info. Regards Phil From honaker@swlink.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:29:56 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:29:56 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Nominations for School and Community Garden Awards Time Sensitive Information! 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Garden Awards DEADLINE Postmark by JANUARY 20, 2000 SPONSORED BY Let's Get Growing in conjunction with the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference "Growing Awareness" February 25-27, 2000 Phoenix, Arizona C A L L F O R N O M I N A T I O N S Each year the Southwest Region Community and School Gardening conference honors individuals, gardens and business for their outstanding efforts in the areas of community and school gardening in the Southwest. Awards are presented at the "Seeds for Change - Garden Basket Reception" and Awards evening. We are asking for your assistance to nominate outstanding efforts and programs in the states of AZ, CA, CO, NM, NV, TX, UT. Categories for awards include: · Outstanding Community Garden · Outstanding School Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a Community Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden · Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a Community Garden Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a School Garden D E T A I L S Deadline: Nomination must be postmarked by January 20, 000 Award winners will be notified by January 31, 2000. Award presentation will take place at Seeds for Change-Garden Basket Reception 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Saturday - February 26, 2000 at the Arizona Science Center - Phoenix, AZ A representative from your garden must be present at Award Ceremony to receive award. Award winners will receive: Two complimentary tickets to Seeds for Change Event. Additional tickets may be purchased at $75 each. All other transportation and hotel accommodations are the responsibility of award winner. H o w t o S u b m i t N o m i n a t i o n s: 1. Provide information for each item listed in the award category you have selected. 2. Submit on White paper. Do not to exceed 2 double spaced pages. 3. Please include the address/location of the garden and contact person information. 4. Enclose 4 representative slides or photos. These will not be returned. If you are selected as a winner, you may be asked to submit additional photos or slides. AWARD CATEGORIES Outstanding Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Explain the utilization of the Garden space. · How many pounds of food does the Garden produce annually? · Who gets the food produced in the garden? · How does the Garden build community? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to get along and motivate others · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to community gardening Outstanding School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · How is the Garden used as a learning space? · How many children utilize the Garden annually? · How is the Garden produce utilized? · How does the Garden interact with your community? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to motivate others and interact with students · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to school gardening Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this Agency's: · Personnel support (i.e. volunteers, employee participation incentives) · Administrative support (i.e. publishing of documents, grant writing) · Financial support (i.e. grants, in-kind services, office space, equipment) · Legislative support (i.e. policy development, advocacy) Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a School Garden Nomination Criteria (use same criteria listed above for Community Garden) Checklist Remember to Include: 4 Slides or Photos of your Garden Nomination Letter (2 typed pages maximum) Your Contact Information Postmark Application by January 20, 2000 Submit Nomination(s) to: Kristen Battafarano CSG Awards U of A Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Questions? Contact Kristen Battafarano P: 602-470-8086 ext. 356 CF: 602-470-8092 E: kbattafa@ag.arizona.edu From honaker@swlink.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:25:00 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:25:00 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Join us for the 3rd Annual SW Region Community and School Gardening Conference MARK YOUR CALENDARS! Plan to join us for the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference - February 25-27,2000 - Phoenix, AZ Unlike any conference you've been to before, this regional conference is hosted at a school practicing school gardening. This unique environment offers a one-of-a kind educational experience. From the line up of national and regional experts, to the hands-on training and networking activities, this conference will give you the tools and information to make your community or school garden a success! Information about the conference is listed below. Also check out our website (http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/aware.htm) to view more and download a registration form. If you would like to receive a conference brochure or have registration questions, please contact Cheryl Czaplicki at 602-942-3289 or email: j-c-czaplicki@worldnet.att.net WHO SHOULD ATTEND? This conference is designed specifically for those with interest in learning about gardening in a community or school setting. Areas of interest include: -Community Gardens -School Gardens -K-12 Educators & Administrators -Food Service Personnel -4/H -Youth Agencies -Public & Botanic Gardens -Horticultural Therapists -Community and Youth Leaders -Child Development Specialists AGENDA: HANDS-ON INSTITUTES (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 9:00 am - 2:00 pm The Farm at South Mountain 6106 S. 32nd Street - Phoenix - Get Growing - Art in the Garden I - Art in the Garden II - Community Food Security Round Table CURRICULUM EXPLORATION (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 10:00 am - 2:00 pm County Inn & Suites 808 N. Scottsdale Rd. - Tempe - Food, Land and People - Junior Master Gardeners Program - Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth & Comm. WELCOME RECEPTION Friday - February 25 4:30 - 7:00 p.m. Phoenix Zoo - Harmony Farms 455 N. Galvin Parkway - Phoenix -Early Registration, Tour, Hoe-Down Reception and Appetizers CONFERENCE - DAY 1 Saturday - February 26 7:00 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe KEYNOTE: Lily Yeh, Village for Arts and Humanities SESSION ONE A1. Jr. Master Gardener Program: Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth A2. The Children's Garden - "The Place for Curious Kids" B. How to Start and Maintain a Community Garden C. Vegetables and Flowers 101: How to Grow and Succeed in the SW D. Entrepreneuralism in Community Gardens E. Gardening + Art + Architecture = Landscape Architecture F1. Volunteers: Finding Them F2. Attracting the Media: What you Need to know and do to get in the news G. Community Food Security: Growing Hope H. Preserving the Harvest: How to can, preserve and store food SESSION TWO A. A Classy Garden - Teaching Any Subject in a Garden Environment B. Partnership to Get and Sustain Land C1. Composting and Worms C2. Mysteries and Histories of Plant Names D. Heritage Gardening E. Garden Photography with Kids F. Volunteers: Keeping Them G. Getting School Garden Produce into the Lunchroom H. A Novel Raised Bed Growing System SESSION THREE A. Regional Breakout: Meet with Others from your Region B. Round Table Discussion: Where are we Now? C. Tours of Community and School Gardens D. Horticulture Jeopardy E. Art in the Garden: Explore the creativity you can add to your garden Agenda Subject to Change Track Legend: A= School Garden B= Community Garden C= Gardening Basics D= Innovative Programs E= Art in the Garden F = Management Tools G.= Nutrition and Food Security H. = Sustainable Practices SEEDS FOR CHANGE - GARDEN BASKET RECEPTION Saturday - February 26 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Arizona Science Center 600 E. Washington - Phoenix Sponsored by the Arizona Chefs for Sustainable Agriculture and Let's Get Growing. Renowned Arizona Chefs prepare tantalizing appetizers with produce grown by local school and community gardens. Also featured: -Silent Auction Fundraiser -Let's Get Growing Awards for outstanding school and community gardens in the Southwest. -Exhibits and Hands-On Exploration of Science Center Exhibits CONFERENCE - DAY 2 Sunday - February 27 8:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe Keynote: David Hawkins - The Edible Schoolyard General Session: Jim Flint - Kids Garden from Coast to Coast SESSION FOUR A. AZ School Garden Grant Winners: Meet 10 Schools from throughout Arizona B. Poster Gallery: Visit with Attendees to Learn More About their Projects. C. Meet the Winners of the Let's Get Gro