From tate@dzn.com Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:33:31 -0700 Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:33:31 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [AG] Genetically-Engineered Agriculture Hello, There seems to be a number of people getting paranoid over Genetic Engineering. You can get some knowledge about the subject by going to http://www.organicgardening.com/articles/article1_a.html Some people maintain that Monsanto, DuPoint, and others are in the field of genetic engineering in order to make a dollar. That's how you got your toast, orange, eggs, and bacon for breakfast this morning. I thought this was the American way so what's so improper in making money. Do any of you have some feeling about the subject that you are willing to divulge? Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From antiquefreek@aol.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: antiquefreek@aol.com antiquefreek@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat bermuda). From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 05:31:46 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 05:31:46 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] barriers / weeds You might want to use a vertical barrier at the edge of your lawn to keep the rhizomes from traveling. Mostly, weeds only grow where water is applied. Black plastic is very bad for trees, etc. because the ground moisture condenses on the underside of the plastic and roots tend to develop on top of the soil.....thereby not anchoring the plant very well. Plastic keeps air, as well as water from traveling freely in the soil and tends to promote fungus in that way. It is a very hard thing to remove once you realize that you don't want it under 6 inches of gravel.......... I don't find weeds much of a problem in any of the spaces I've removed the plastic in the 6 years I've been doing it. And I didn't replace the plastic with anything..... On Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) antiquefreek@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front >and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the >gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes >in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen >a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow >rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most >closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. >Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an >alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass >and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat >bermuda). > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jklaz@dellnet.com Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:37:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:37:52 -0700 (MST) From: jklaz@dellnet.com jklaz@dellnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you advise me on how often and how much water I should be giving the following : 1)trees-both native and non. 2)shrubs. 3) flowers. 4)grass.? Thanks. From guru@samoaone.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:50:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:50:25 -0700 (MST) From: guru@samoaone.com guru@samoaone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ From Renior307@aol.com Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:27:08 -0700 Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:27:08 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley Renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Desert primroses I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:38:18 EST Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:38:18 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering trees, shrubs and grass You should find your answers on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From blum@ix.netcom.com Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:06:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:06:11 -0700 (MST) From: blum@ix.netcom.com blum@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please recommend varities that are disiease resistant and bug reseitant in our cimate, small mostly organic garden, NW side--need beans, carrots, tomatoes (multiple varieties), squash, zucchini, peas, lettuces, cucumbers, small corn, peppers (multiple varieties) and any other basic veggies that do weel here (again, in a very small garden). From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 03 Jan 2000 11:13:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 11:13:06 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Urban Homeowner Tree Care clinic --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic Saturday, January 22, 2000 Sponsored by: Arizona State Land Department Arizona State University Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc FREE to the public The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic. Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance. This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance. This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise. There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged. Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis. Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd. Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1. The Arboretum at ASU ASU Visitors Information Center 826 E. Apache Blvd Tempe, AZ 85287-2512 480-965-8467 FAX: 480-965-9333 web site: http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic
Saturday, January 22, 2000

Sponsored by:
Arizona State Land Department
Arizona State University
Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc

FREE to the public

The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic.  Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance.

This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance.

This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise.  There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information.  Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day.  Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged.

Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.  Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. 

Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd.  Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1.

The Arboretum at ASU
ASU Visitors Information Center
826 E. Apache Blvd
Tempe, AZ 85287-2512
480-965-8467
FAX: 480-965-9333
web site:
http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:00:13 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:00:13 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Kerr Family - one other note. YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely = tolerant of "salt" in many different forms. In fact, bermudagrass is = often used to reclaim old salt waste lands. It should be tolerant of = anything in your pool backwash and the deep flood-type irrigation from = the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, whether actively = growing or winter dormant. Hope that all of this information and the = great Extension information sheet recommended by Linda Guy help you out. mike hills *************************** -----Original Message----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Kerr Family Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water Hi Kerr Family,=20 First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating = chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic = operation. The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used = to have a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to = give you some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited = their facility on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's = an interesting place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)=20 It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note to = our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be = interested. (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20 Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe = for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and = the publication lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to = salt content. Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my = Master Gardener training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool = water. The publication is available by mailing $1 to:=20 Home Horticulture Publications = University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension=20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20 Good luck!=20 Linda Guy=20 Master Gardener=20 Kerr Family wrote:=20 How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and = hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for = plants or is the sodium concentration too high? ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kerr Family  -  one other=20 note.   YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely tolerant of=20 "salt" in many different forms.    In fact,=20 bermudagrass is often used to reclaim old salt waste = lands.    It=20 should be tolerant of anything in your pool backwash and the deep = flood-type=20 irrigation from the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, = whether=20 actively growing or winter dormant.   Hope that all of this=20 information and the great Extension information sheet recommended by = Linda Guy=20 help you out.
  mike hills
 
***************************
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Linda A. Guy <laguy2@primenet.com>
To:= Kerr=20 Family <dmkerr@dancris.com>
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM
Subject: [AG] = Treatments for=20 Chlorine & Sodium in Water

Hi Kerr Family,=20

First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating=20 chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be=20 inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic operation. The = Arizona=20 Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used to have a commercial = hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to give you some = advice. It's=20 been about 3-4 years since I last visited their facility on a conference = tour,=20 but they were good people and it's an interesting place to spend an = afternoon.=20 (PN 995-1624)=20

It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note = to our=20 list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities=20 of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested.=20 (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20

Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: = Safe=20 for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from=20 washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the=20 untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and the publication = lists=20 categories of plant materials by susceptibility to salt content. Bermuda = grass=20 is not listed, by I seem to recall from my Master Gardener training that = it=20 'eats' salt and would accept pool water.  The publication is = available by=20 mailing $1 to:=20

           &nbs= p;            = ;            =      =20 Home Horticulture Publications=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;           =20 University of Arizona Cooperative Extension=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;       =20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;         =20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20

Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener=20

Kerr Family wrote:=20

How can I get chlorine out of tap = water for=20 watering houseplants and hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable = for plants=20 or is the sodium concentration too=20 high?
------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:44:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:44:06 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Republic Gardening section Hello Gardeners of Maricopa County As many of you are aware, our MG Republic Writing Team has been working for the last 9 months with the Arizona Republic on their gardening information pages. Any of you who have seen the Republic since Jan. 1st are aware that they are greatly changing the enitre paper's format this year. These changes include the gARDENING page(s), BUT I am glad to report that our local Extension office, Terry, Lucy, Cathy Rymer and our Master Gardener Republic Writing Team will all still be involved. They will also still be pulling gardening events info from our website to report in the gardening section and other "what to do" areas of the paper. We are still fine-tuning the exact details of our relationship, but the bulk of the gardening information for their readers will still originate from our efforts with Maricopa County Extension information (YEAH!!) - in fact, the editors told us specifically that they do not want to use a lot of wire service generic gardening stuff that is not appropriate here. Rather than Saturday, this will now be in a special magazine style section of the Wednesday paper - apparently this move among many other changes is in response to many reader surveys that the Republic has done the last year to try and update and better serve their customers. This new 2000 gardening information section will be in the "Good Life" section of the "Smart Living" pullout in each Wednesday edition of the Arizona Republic. WHY AM I TELLING YOU ALL ABOUT THIS, YOU ASK??? I would request that anyone who receives the Arizona Republic on Wednesdays check out the gardening section the next few weeks and give Cathy Rymer and I any constructive criticism and feedback (positive and negative). We don't have a lot of say in how things will be done, but it is all still in the development stage and the edoitors do value our suggestions, so your input to us will be helpful in our next planning meeting with the editors. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE PAPER'S MAIN FOCUS IN THIS GARDENING SECTION WILL BE FOR THE NEW GARDENER IN THE AREA, SO DO NOT EXPECT A LOT OF MORE ADVANCED INFORMATION. Terry is going to keep covering some of that in his part of the section, but our Master Gardener writers will be covering basic topics and a lot of "how-to" information - especially based on the types of seasonal and repeat questions that flood our MG hotline each year. Anyhow's, just wanted to request your thoughts and input. Thank you again to the many of you that have been so helpful and supportive of our efforts this last year. We are really looking forward to more fun with this project in 2000. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Director, Educational Materials Chair, Master Gardener Republic Writing Team email mhills_sro@msn.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:47:54 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:47:54 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] bermuda removal, winter Tilling will actually bury a lot of the rhizomes and you may have a continuing problem with bermuda recurring as a weed. Actually digging out the bermuda and removing it may work better than just tilling it under. The best results are to wait until it is actively growing and use a Round-up type spray chemical a couple of times. However, bermuda seed and hay growers in the Arizona and California do a fairly good job of getting rid of old bermuda fields when they are rotating to a new crop, such as lettuce or melons. AND, often they do this in the winter. In general, they take advantage of the freezing tempoeratures during mid-winter to help them kill the bermuda stolons (surface "runners") and rhizomes (underground stems). Deep tilling the bermuda sod up and leaving as much of it rough and exposed as possible is the best. Some very cold freeze nights as we are getting now and on into February will really help to freeze the exposed bermuda growing points. As much as possible, DO NOT water the bermuda once you start exposing it to the cold. Dry conditions are better to help the cold air kill the bermuda. (this is contrary to the advice when you are using chemicals to kill it in summer - then it needs to be watered to keep it actively growing and taking up the chemical). Every week or two or three during this cold period, till the area again and each time, leave it roughed up with as much root surface exposed to the air as possible. Sometime after the last killing frost, you shuld be able to final till the soil, add your amendments and start planting. Of course, removal by hand of any exposed rhizomes and stems all along will also help, but I think the dry and cold will do you a lot of good. This should do a pretty good job and by March you could begin to plant. you will still need to watch for any little bermuda sprouts that pop up in April or May as temperatures warm up - pull or dig these isolated bits as soon as you see them, while they are still weak and stress AND before they have a chance to start spreading. Policing the new garden for bermuda closely the first year should work. Good Luck! mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener ****************************** -----Original Message----- From: kclizman@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 5:05 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > >I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > From Pacsmith@att.net Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at home is not really helpful. Thanks for your assistance. From rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:26:43 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:26:43 -0700 From: Roger Huber rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule PLEASE REPLY TO: "barb" Can you please send me via e mail a watering schedule for citrus trees in Scottsdale and also watering for various schrubs and flowers during the entire year...thank you ....happy new year..... "barb" From grenner@gateway.net Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:20:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:20:23 -0700 (MST) From: grenner@gateway.net grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:33:07 EST Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:33:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite The Chilean Mesquite grows so fast that you will probably have to prune it several times a year. Never prune more than 25% off the tree at one time and not more than 1/3 in a year. I've just finished an article on pruning for the Arizona Republic; it is unedited and I've not finished the drawings yet, however I'll send the text to you. Why not attend the Home and Garden Show at the Fairgrounds this weekend. I'll be doing a talk on pruning on Friday at 11:30. There will be other Master Gardeners doing talks thoughout the weekend. Hope this info is helpful. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to ½ of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to ½ of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:29:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:29:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cats in the landscape We get this question a lot and I wish I had a fool-proof solution for you, but I don't. Some past suggestions that we have given people have been to use the store bought preparations (I use Repel) but I know that you have to keep applying this regularly because the effects do wear off - especially after rain. Some people use pepper spray and pumice, which hurts cats paws so they do not like walking on it, but again, this has worked for some and not well for others. One of my colleagues has used humane, live traps and returned the cats to their owners with a polite explanation. Another suggestion that has been made in the past is surrounding the area you want to keep them out of with chicken wire, but this is not practical if they are using your entire landscape, like they do mine - well, the front yard anyway, we have a Great Dane in the back and have only had one cat venture in there and it left very quickly. One thing I have found is that you have to completely remove the soil which they have "soiled" otherwise the odor left behind attracts other visitors. Perhaps some one else will see this note and hit upon an idea that we have not yet covered here. I'll keep my eyes open too for any new suggestions. Its a tough one and a big aggravation for gardeners. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer grenner@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NenaC@AOL.com Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:28:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:28:02 -0700 (MST) From: NenaC@AOL.com NenaC@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? From Louise_Howden@webtv.net Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:46:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:46:46 -0700 (MST) From: Louise_Howden@webtv.net Louise_Howden@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 5 Jan 2000 07:19:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 07:19:47 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite The best time is coming up in January and February for pruning most trees ~ at the end of their dormant season / beginning of most growth period. However, you don't want to take so much off that your interior tree is subject to sun scald, splittling the bark and exposing wood to disease and insect attack. Those small branches growing along the trunk help it to thicken and become strong. Shorten them if necessary and eventually remove them about the time they are the diameter of your thumb. Mesquite are naturally similar to umbrellas and make wonderful shade in this hot valley. However, this shape traps wind (like an umbrella) so you may want to thin the branches to allow wind to escape without damaging your tree. Remove whole branches to do this back to the attachment and try to leave very little stub. Each limb has a sort of collar where it is attached at the base ~ leaving this collar helps the tree to heal the wound. When you shorten a long horizontal limb, look for an outward facing leaf or minor branch attachment, or one going in the direction you favor for the branch because that is the point of the next growth for that branch. Don't remove more than 1/3 of the tree in any one year. Pruning often stimulates growth and sometimes can lead to surprising shapes. Think carefully about the size and shape you are wishing to promote. Good thoughts, not luck! On Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) Pacsmith@att.net writes: >arid_gardener >One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. >Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the >top and >outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at >trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim >it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? >What is a good >resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our >book at >home is not really helpful. > >Thanks for your assistance. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:29:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:29:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Gardening I see your question has been around a while, so I referred it to a colleague whose specialty this is, hoping she'll have some time to respond soon. In the meantime permit me to make two suggestions. First, this weekend's Mrixopa County Home and Garden Show which starts tomorrow, has a container gardening program at 4:30 pm on Friday, 1/7. We (Master Gardeners) are doing the clinic, and I wouldn't be surprised if the colleague to whom I referred your original question is the person presenting! Next, The Arizona Herb Association's February meeting will deal with the topic of Container Gardening. Check out the group's calendar of events at: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/Calendar_Of_Events.html Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gjblackham@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to get information on container gardening; flowers and greenery, not vegtables. I would like what will grow well during the summer and winter in full sun and shade. I am having a difficult time getting this information. Thank you Sharon Blackham > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:36:56 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:36:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Pygmy Palms As a rule, palms look considerably better with appropriate fertilization, including some micronutrients. This is typically done in mid spring and again in early summer. We have an excellent discussion of fertilizer in our Arizona Landscape Palms publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Specialty palm fertilizers are easily purchased here in the valley. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener dgilbert@amug.org wrote: > arid_gardener > Wanted to find out what type fertilizer or plant food I need for Pgymy Date palms and fan palms. Also do cactus need any type of fertilizer or food outside in my yard. They were just planted two months ago. Thanks for any help you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and used the more traditional technique of systemic herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend battling the bermuda over the years may not be worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth season in the summer) truly is a virtue! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener kclizman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > > I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:59:19 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:59:19 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite In addition to the Maricopa County Home and Garden Show, the Arboretum at ASU is also sponsoring an Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic, free to the public (must preregister however) on Saturday 1/22. Check it out at http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Pacsmith@att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. > Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and > outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good > resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at > home is not really helpful. > > Thanks for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:48:42 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:48:42 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pear Varieties for the Phoenix Metro Area I do not have recent personal experience with pears, but I am unfamiliar with an 'evergreen' variety. All pear trees I'm aware of, including oriental or asian pears, are deciduous trees. If you are looking for a particular variety of fruit, I would suggest consulting the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual, which is available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties Many local nurseries have pear stock. The most important consideration for fruit production will be the number of chill hours the tree needs in the winter months in order to bear. As you might suspect, we require the minimal number here in the Valley. If you are in the higher elevations of North Scottsdale, you may experience more cold than we do in the central city, however. Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener NenaC@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:50:55 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:50:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise We have a publication called Backyard Grapes (MC 59) which is not unfortunately, available online. Send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications,University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. As you suspected, now is the time to prune grapes (early January to late February). This publication also has good information on fertilizing, irrigation and pest/disease control. We also have a printed publication on the Yellow and Red Birds of Paradise (MC 44) which is missing from my home reference library. You might call the Master Gardener desk at 602/470-8086 to ask if pruning is covered in the material. They should be able to provide guidance by phone, but if you want this publication, too, you'll need to send an additional $1. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener . guru@samoaone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:29:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:29:02 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite I would like to offer a tiny correction to the advice to prune a mesquite this time of the year. The cool part of the year is very inadvisable time to prune all desert legume trees, such as mesquite. They appear to have great limb die back and may be more susceptible to other infections when pruned at this time. The optimal time to prune them is when it is hot, from about April on. However, you should be aware that pruning later in the summer, from about July onwards, may also present a different kind of problem. The natural response to pruning in all trees is a stimulation of the production of new shoot growth. But this response can be overwhelming, particularly for mesquites when they are pruned too late in the hot weather. Consequently, you end up with twice the problem you had in the first place. So, timing is everything, but then isn't it always. Mary From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 06 Jan 2000 12:56:26 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 12:56:26 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass Hi there: My partner and I had great success starting a vegetable garden in the middle of our Bermuda patch without digging or using poisons. Skeptical? So were we. We used a technique known as "sheet-mulching." We were amazed at how well it worked--in fact we will probably never dig up Bermuda again. In a nutshell, sheet mulching involves putting down layers of nitrogenous matter (e.g., animal manure, blood meal), some sort of barrier layer (we used corrugated cardboard), and plant "debris" (fallen leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc.) on top of the weeds (i.e. Bermuda grass). Last February, we followed the steps outlined in _Introduction to Permaculture_ by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (see full reference below), watered the "heap" for about an hour, covered the heap with a tarp (to keep the dogs and cats from running through it), and let it sit for a month. A few weeks after we removed the tarp, we decided to ahead and plant Swiss chard and arugula in the sheet mulch area. Both were quite successful; in fact, the chard is still going 10 months later. As an added bonus we got a surprise pumpkin out of the process--must have had some seeds in the compost we used. A little later in the season we planted tomatoes and eggplant in the area, and they seemed to thrive as well. While this technique requires some patience too, it requires a lot less work than the dig-and-sift approach we used in our past gardening efforts. If anyone is interested in how to sheet mulch, contact me off the AG list via E-mail. I can send copies of the relevant pages from Mollison and Slay's book via the post. Here's the reference info: Introduction to Permaculture by B. C. Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (Contributor) Paperback - 224 pages Revised edition (November 1997) Ten Speed Press ISBN: 0908228082 Good luck and happy gardening. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 6 >Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" <> >To: >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn > >When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my >husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and >replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to >do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of >the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and >used the more traditional technique of systemic >herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will >have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend >battling the bermuda over the years may not be >worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth >season in the summer) truly is a virtue! > >Good luck! >Linda Guy >Master Gardener Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From lm1127@webtv.net Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:23:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:23:11 -0700 (MST) From: lm1127@webtv.net lm1127@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Pruning Acacia & Lysiloma What is the best time of year to prune these trees? My Acacia is a small multi trunk tree (3 1/2- 4 yrs.old) I have occasionally pruned lower branches and it looks pretty good. Now it looks like it's ready to have several more removed, but I don't want to do it the wrong time of year. I also have 2 Lysilomas. The one gets the puff balls followed by the pods, but the other one doesn't. They are both 3 1/2 - 4 yrs. old. Could it be the one is a different tree? Also , I have the same pruning question for these trees. Thanks for any advice. Linda From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:39:27 -0800 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:39:27 -0800 From: George Sifuentes sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in color. Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 15:32:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 15:32:38 -0700 (MST) From: sifuentes1@juno.com sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP. I received an Araucaria Heterophylla pine (Norfolk Island Pine. Can this tree survive here. can I plant it outside, if so how and when, is it frost tender, etc. Thanks From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:14:26 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:14:26 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE George, Your plant is a Norfolk Island Pine, botanically known as Araucaria heterophylla (used to be A. excelsa). It will be 10 ft tall or more at maturity, but it might not get that large here. Plant it on a north facing wall, be sure that it gets plenty of moisture in the summer and that the site it not too terribly cold in the winter. When very small, I would protect it from frost. They are also very good container plants on a patio or in very bright room, in which circumstance they will not get nearly as tall as in the ground. Mary George Sifuentes wrote: > arid_gardener > I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE > or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in > color. > Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can > I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From grenner@gateway.net Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:04:20 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:04:20 -0700 From: grenner grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Thanks! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. I'll = try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've placed = my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks for all your suggestions regarding = the cat=20 litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what = works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area = and we'll=20 see if that stops them.
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400-- From tarimul@aol.com Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:43:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:43:59 -0700 (MST) From: tarimul@aol.com tarimul@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! Hi, The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity sprinkler. The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look up the garden magazine again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:13:15 -0700 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:13:15 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For years, we have planted ours on St. Francis Day (October 4). -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: hursday, January 06, 2000 8:43 PM > When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:53:22 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:53:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii Nena, The Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii is listed as being suitable for our low desert climate zone and is a beautiful tree when in bloom, however it is subject to so many problems that I personally would not consider planting it. It is subject to iron chlorosis, zinc deficiency, fireblight, crown gall, root knot nematodes, and Texas root rot. The tree during our hot summers does not look very attractive. If after all this you still decide to plant the tree there should be several nurseries selling the tree. Good luck, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:55:05 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:55:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule Barb, Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation. It should give you the answers you need. Good luck. Rod http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From mghbird@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: mghbird@aol.com mghbird@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to prune bouganvilla and how much to cut off From nikita53@juno.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:34:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:34:09 -0700 (MST) From: nikita53@juno.com nikita53@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small buisness in the Gilbert Heritage District. I am looking for a landscaping program that allows students to plan and apply. If there is such a program please contact me as soon as possible. The area I need to have done is considered in the Heritage District of Gilbert. It would provide a great work experience for students in all phases and would also help a small buisness owner on a very strict budget out. From Aaaorvca@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:16:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:16:46 -0700 (MST) From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Aaaorvca@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When and at what frequency, do I need to ferilize? I have 2 orange trees, 1 lemon, 1 grapefruit, and 1 tangerine tree All are less than 6 years of age, with the exception of the grapefruit tree. From cflook@icgconsulting.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 15:03:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 15:03:56 -0700 (MST) From: cflook@icgconsulting.com cflook@icgconsulting.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have lots of practice in pruning my hybrid tea rose bushes. I cut them back to 4-5 canes in Jan. and prune throughout the year, as my yard is small. But last spring I planted a climbing rose that has done quite well. However, I am a not sure how to prune it this month. Would love some help. Thanks - Christa From manu10@gte.net Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:03:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:03:42 -0700 (MST) From: manu10@gte.net manu10@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm working on a science project for middle school and need some help. I planted some green onions in pots. We cut tops off of matured oninos and used their stocks. Then I watered 3 pots daily with 50 degree water and 3 with 70 degree water and 3 with 107 degree water. I thought that the 70 degree water would do the best but the 107 degree water grew faster and taller. Why would this happen. I live in Hawaii and the plants were in morning shade and afternoon sun. I watered in the early evenings. does something happen to the water or did we just make the climate more perfect for the onions with the hot water. I hope that you have the time for a answer to this emial. Mahalo From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jan 2000 19:54:09 EST Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 19:54:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvillea Wait until after the danger of frost to prune Bougainvillea to minimize the chance of frost burn. Bougainvillea is quite frost tender anyway and new growth becomes even more so. You can continue to prune if necessary throughout spring, summer and fall. Good luck. Rod From dmkerr@dancris.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking. = Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes = flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is there = anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The plants in = pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My basil plants start out with large = green leaves,=20 perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get = smaller and=20 the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient=20 deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves = and no=20 flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever = seen.
------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 07:51:30 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 07:51:30 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: pruning Mexican Heather I have several Cupheas myself, a few have a hint of cold damage at this time (north face of house). I am not inclined to initiate pruning on these until we enter a slightly warmer time of the year (March mayhap?). We still have risk of cold damage, thedamaged limbs offer protection to the shrubbery underneath and were we to prune now, we would be risking more of the plants. However, I offer you this advice based on personal experience, not empirical evidence. Linda Guy Master Gardener Werbb@aol.com wrote: > Is this a good time of the year to cut back heather that is growing against > the house? From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:26:23 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:26:23 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] New Cat Control Ideas - 'Earl the Dead Cat' --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however. If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot. Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this. The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat". Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!! Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls. Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time. Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often. Linda Guy Master Gardener grenner wrote: > Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. > I'll try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've > placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops > them. --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however.

If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot.

Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this.

The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat".  Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!!

Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls.

Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time.

Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

grenner wrote:

 Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them.
--------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Basil Growth Habit --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family, Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors). For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer. You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for > cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant > makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is > there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The > plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family,

Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors).  For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer.

You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring.

Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen.
--------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50-- From mike.todd@asu.edu Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:27:17 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:27:17 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: Re(2): [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass-longish laguy2@primenet.com writes: >Thanks Mike, > >It's been so long since I read and took classes on Permaculture >techniques that >I had totally forgotten about this. 'Brainset' would have been aided and >abetted if I'd actually done a few of the techniques and could speak from >experience, in addition to book learning! > >I'm interested in your material. But I am also interested in the >longevity of >this solution. You say it worked first season. How many summers has this >pea >patch seen and what has been your experience with recurrence of bermuda? >Could >you post your response to the server, too (minus the attachment, I mean)? >Thanks, >Linda The bed has been through one summer only. Although clayey and heavy, the soil in our yard is pretty good to begin with compared to a lot of desert soils. Even so, back in October when I planted some O'odham I'toi onions, I was very impressed with how friable (and weed-free) the soil in sheet mulched area was given how little effort went into soil improvement. Here are some more details on what we did and our experience: 1) We edged most of the bed with some old landscaping timbers and bricks to help minimize Bermuda infiltration. 2) The only places where Bermuda has appeared is at the edges of the bed and in a couple of the places where we pierced the cardboard to plant the chard, etc. Where the grass has popped up in the middle of the bed, it has been remarkably easy to pull out. 3) All layers except the upper layer of "hard" organic material (leaves and stalks from our Carrizo [Arundo donax]) have "returned to the earth", which leads me to the next detail... 4) Sheet mulching is not a one-time task (Mollison points this out in his book). This is something one does annually as a way building productive soil as well as controlling weeds with a minimal input of energy--whether from your muscles or from the processes involved in the manufacture, packaging, and shipping of synthetic fertilizers and poisons. We also put a "hybrid" bed right next to the sheet mulch area. In this patch, we used the dig-and-filter approach where we dug down 4-6", removed the soil, and picked out the rhizomes and stolons (as best we could). We then put cardboard down in the bottom of the resulting hole. We then blended the filtered topsoil with store-bought organic matter (peat, "forest compost", steer manure) along with sand and gypsum to counteract the undesirable properties of the clay soil. We wet the cardboard and sprinkled it with some blood meal and manure and then put the amended soil in the hole. We also edged this bed with timbers. While both beds produced very well, the hybrid bed had more Bermuda popping up as well as a noticeable accumulation of salts in the soil--although I haven't actually had soil from the two beds tested to see if one side is saltier than the other. I guess we'll need more time to see the results of this little "split- plot" study. I hope this helps. -mike t. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:05 EST Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus An excellent bulletin titled Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix Az. 85040. Also most libraries will have this bulletin available in the Master Gardener Bulletin Manual which you can photocopy. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:06 EST Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Climbing Roses Christa, I'm enclosing a portion of an article written by Mary Lou Coffman on pruning climbing roses. If you still have questions, there will be rose pruning demonstrations throughout the valley this month put on by the valley rose societies. If you live in the East Valley there will be demos at Pioneer Park Rose Garden on January 15 and 22 and at Mesa Community College Rose Garden each Saturday morning this month. If you haven't seen the MCC Rose Garden it will be worth your while to come and see the over 2000 roses. Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:31:42 -0700 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:31:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! WOW! I'll bet that would work for cats and probably rabbits too! On Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST JeanSciFi@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Hi, > >The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity >sprinkler. >The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look >up the >garden magazine again. > >JeanSciFi@aol.com >Master Gardener Volunteer >Apache Junction, AZ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From info@viapro.com Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:55:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:55:55 -0700 (MST) From: info@viapro.com info@viapro.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Watched TV this morning about growing grapes in AZ. I'm wondering if it is possible to grow grapes in pots (lg of course)In case I move will they travel? Grapes look like fun. Thank you for your response. Have a Great Day From jrnelson@asu.edu Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:41:54 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:41:54 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How should I prune the creosote bushes that grow in our yard. The have grown leggy and unattractive so I cut them back severely. Now I want to encourage them to grow more densely and and limit their height to about 36 inches. From jrnelson@asu.edu Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:45:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:45:22 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 14 "dwarf" oleander plants growing on the east side of a 6' concrete block fence so they receive lots of sun. I have recently cut them back and now want to grow them so the foliage is up from the ground, perhaps as much as 12 to 18 inches. Please recommend how to achieve this outcome. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:47:54 EST Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:47:54 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Oleanders for special effect JR, You can start pruning off the lower branches until the crown is to the level that you want. Be sure not to prune more than 1/4 of the bush at one time and not more than 1/3 in one year. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:15:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:15:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Moving Dwarf Lime Tree I'm trolling for input on removing a dwarf Mexican lime out of the landscape and putting it into a very large patio container. The lime was a 10-gal plant 2.5 years ago when it was put into a large bed. Currently canopy diameter is 4.5 to 5 feet. Trunk diameter about 4 inches. Good producer. Any thoughts on the most appropriate time of year and other special treatment/considerations would be much appreciated. Is one particular container better than another for this purpose. Thanks, Linda Guy From laguy2@primenet.com Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:23:51 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:23:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] North Wall Shrubbery I've been doing my research and now would like to ask my fellow colleagues about personal favorites for shrubbery on a north facade under the roof eaves. Full shade Nov-Dec-Jan. Midday sun in hot summer months (until about 2-3pm when an adjacent screwbean mesquite throws some filtered relief). This is a fundamentally a native/xeriscaped yard. I'd like 3-5 feet height, similar width. No preference for color (foliage or flower). Security plant (i.e. thorns) would be great since these are under windows; however, this isn't necessary. I would prefer evergreen/semi-deciduous to deciduous. Currently there are baja (red) fairydusters there. They don't look bad, but tend to be leggy, as you might expect. I'd like to update the area. I've been scanning my landscape cd and have some ideas, but would like to hear from you, too. Any suggestions (and why!). Thanks! Linda Guy Master Gardener From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 06:50:33 -0700 Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 06:50:33 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: BASIL Use a nitrogen fertilizer and always pick flowers off. You may be able to get your plant to live a couple of years but the flavor will decrease. Mine did the best in the shade of grapes here near PHOENIX. On Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 "Kerr Family" writes: >My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for >cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant >makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is >there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The >plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. From GeorgeandShell@juno.com Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:31:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:31:28 -0700 (MST) From: GeorgeandShell@juno.com GeorgeandShell@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? From odaat@ibm.net Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:35:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: odaat@ibm.net odaat@ibm.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? Best regards, Don D. From tate@dzn.com Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:40:49 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:40:49 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [AG] Sheet Mulch Here's a beautiful site that explains the technique of sheet mulching. http://www.agroforester.com/articles/Sheet_Mulching.html Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:45:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:45:57 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] male Persimmon trees I have a friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma who has several male Persimmon trees in his back yard, southern exposure. The branches are being neatly cut off at the bases by, he thinks, either net worms or web worms. He sprays with some kind of pesticide periodically but the problem persists. I don't know what his watering or fertilizing practices are. Is there anything he can do to get rid of this problem for good? Thx, Judy From jconrad@azstarnet.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:50:00 +0000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:50:00 +0000 From: Julie Conrad jconrad@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Smartscape Hi Carol, Do you know if this workshop will be offered again? Any chance for a Tucson version? Thanks Julie Conrad From Designscapes@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:39:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: Designscapes@uswest.net Designscapes@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I have a quick question for you. I have just recently purchased a home whereby the backwash from the pool has been being discharged for several years and looks as if it will have to continue to be in an area where I would like to plant some plants. I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! Do you have any suggestions for some plants that might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! Sincerely, Brett Sweetser From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:37:19 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:37:19 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Bell Pepper Question from Home-Hort WWW page Bitter taste is often due to stress, either not enough water or lack of nutrients. You might also try other sweet pepper types. Gypsy is pretty productive here as is Cubanelle but they may not get as large as the California bells. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- , Monday, January 10, 2000 8:35 AM > I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, > However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? > Best regards, > Don D. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:28:16 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:28:16 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] ROSE TREES HERE IT IS JAN AND MY ROSES ARE BLOOMING BEAUTIFULLY. I HATE TO CUT THEM BACK. WHAT SHOULD I DO? THANKS. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:37:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:37:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Using Pool Backwash for Plant Irrigation In the same website where you found us, we have a listing of available publications on a variety of topics. Some are even available online. You can find it at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil To specifically address your question, we have a pub which is not, unfortunately, available online. It is 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe for Plants? and it lists various categories of plant material by their abilities to tolerate salt, etc. Although not listed, bermuda lawns are good candidates to receive the water from a backwashed pool, in addition to natal plum, rosemary (doesn't like overwatering, however), Texas rangers, euonymus, oleander and bougainvilla (although the latter produces more of its colorful bracts when a bit stressed for water). Send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Designscapes@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I have a quick question for you. I have just > recently purchased a home whereby the backwash > from the pool has been being discharged for several > years and looks as if it will have to continue to be > in an area where I would like to plant some plants. > I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine > rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! > Do you have any suggestions for some plants that > might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much > if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have > checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! > Sincerely, > Brett Sweetser > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From m1afreeman@aol.com Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:05:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:05:23 -0700 (MST) From: m1afreeman@aol.com m1afreeman@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. Mark From maritza@azstarnet.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:57:06 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:57:06 -0700 From: Mary Swift maritza@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #76 - 7 msgs I am trying to reach the hydroponictomatoes crop web site which is supposedly on the AG.Arizona.Edu site. Netscape says they cannot access. Any idea of how we can access this site? Thanks Frank Swift From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:20 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:20 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sunchokes May is okay for planting. In the low desert of Maricopa County, Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes, should be planted late enough in the spring such that the new tender green sprouts will not be killed by frost and early enough so they can complete the growing cycle before the first winter frost frost. Because they take over 6 months to mature, this suggests planting the tubers anytime from late January through the end of May. Summer heat is no problem, because as sunflowers (Helianthus tuberosus, they thrive in it, but while they are growing they will need plenty of water. It helps to shade or mulch the roots. They can be a bit invasive; if any tubers or parts of tubers were left in the ground when you plowed them up, you will certainly have them come up again this year. So I would suggest waiting until the end of March - you may not need to replant. Good Luck! Olin Miller >From: "Toni L. Allen" >To: >Subject: sunchokes >Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:29:27 -0700 > > >... Sunchokes: We planted >them last year, don't recall date---bought them at Albertson's one >morning and they were in the ground that afternoon. Think it was >April. They were doing well, then they got plowed up!!!! Been advised >to plant them in May. I'm wondering if that is advisable---just seems to >me that they'd be battling for survival in the heat of >summer???? ...> From restez@home.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:47:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:47:38 -0700 (MST) From: restez@home.com restez@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water does torchfire bougainvilla need this time of year? Mine looks dry and brownish is spsots. From tabeauaz@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:11:53 EST Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:11:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea, watering in the winter Bougainvillea, if established at least a year will do very well in the winter without water. I suspect that the brown leaves are from frost burn. We've had temperatures in the Phoenix suburbs already this winter that were cold enough to freeze bougainvillea. Wait until the new growth is well started I n the spring and then prune off the frost burned parts. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:46:11 EST Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:46:11 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Proper Irrigation for turf and trees If you are irrigating rye grass, then the once per week interval in the winter should be ok; if you are irrigating dormant bermuda then the interval is much too frequent. Once a month is plenty for dormant bermuda in the winter. Mesquite trees are simi deciduous which means it is normal for them to loose their leaves during cold weather. Most trees planted in turf here in the low desert must have supplemental irrigation in order to remain healthy. Irrigation for turf typically only penetrates 6 to 12 inches. Trees should have water penetrating to the two to three foot level. The mesquite grows very fast, and the roots that have had only shallow water will have a difficult time keeping the tree upright during some of our summer storms. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From jaresteg@nccj.org Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:30:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:30:33 -0700 (MST) From: jaresteg@nccj.org jaresteg@nccj.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:10:11 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:10:11 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Mesquite leaf drop Hi there: While it does sound like you could back off on the lawn irrigation, the leaf drop you are experiencing is most likely just the normal winter "behavior" of the mesquite. Mesquites are cold-deciduous just like many other trees. If everything is going right, the leaves you are losing will be replaced in the spring. Hope this helps. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 2 >Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) >From: tabeauaz@aol.com >To: r@Ag.Arizona.Edu> >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It >is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to >stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the >tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I >over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:53:17 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:53:17 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost protection this time of year i cover my plants every night. do i really need to if i know the temp is not going to get below 40 degrees? does it actually need to freeze (32 degrees) for damage to occur or does it just need to be cold? would really appreciate your help. r2beshon@aol.com From rcbrobin@aol.com Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:46:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:46:17 -0700 (MST) From: rcbrobin@aol.com rcbrobin@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. From Schimkemd@aol.com Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:40:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:40:28 -0700 (MST) From: Schimkemd@aol.com Schimkemd@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have some questions on grasses that grow well in Phoenix. Specifically I am looking for low growing types and wondering if Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris) fits the bill or if you have other suggestions. From jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Fri, 14 Jan 2000 23:07:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 23:07:33 -0700 (MST) From: jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find out what it will take to get them to start growing again. Thank You in advance. From saz621@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:11:28 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:11:28 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have built beds such as you describe and did not use plans per se. But what I did do was determine the height that I wanted, in my case I think it was 29 in, but you be the guide. I then made 4 posts that heigh and used cedar fence posts to finish a box that was 3 ft square. I might also add that diagonal supports can be useful if you intend to fill the entire cube with soil, it will bulge when it is wet. It is also not at all necessary to fill the cube with soil below about 18 in, you can use any kind of rubbly or stuff to fill up the space. The ones I built at in the vegetable garden at the Desert Botanical Garden if you want to go and see how they came out. Mary rcbrobin@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:55:46 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:55:46 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Greenhouse Gardening Hello up there in Oregon, Your question has been around a spell, and although I'm not an expert by any stretch, I can offer a few general observations. Since we can garden outdoors all year, I'm sure the greenhouses are also in full swing year round. A greenhouse's purpose is to manage light, temperature and humidity: with a southern or southeastern exposure, light is probably not an issue for the winter (and of course, not for the summer). Unless the plant material has specific light/dark needs, that is, which must be artificially managed. BTU requirements to maintain a 60 degree minimum temperature depend upon both the city's location/elevation and the square footage of the greenhouse itself. I simply don't know if greenhouses in Phoenix (1200 elevation) need heating capacity. In the last few winters which have been very mild, perhaps not. More necessary is cooling/ventilation equipment (we usually use evaporative coolers) to keep air circulating and cool during our blazing summers. We offer a publication on the subject Q19 Hobby Greenhouse Design Notes which is available by sending $1 to Home Horticulture Publication University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 This is more geared toward construction than it is cultivation practice, however. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener willa@gardenpod.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm from Oregon and wanted to know about the differences in your growing seasons for indoor gardening...using greenhouses. What months do gardeners have to either move their gardening inside or not garden at all? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:02:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:02:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Needed information Did anyone ever answer this gentleman? I have neither the expertise nor the reference material, and I was curious if someone did. Thanks. Linda "Leonard Faust (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that Dorsett can be used to increase the Anna crop, but can > Anna be used to pollinate Dorsetts? Leonard Faust South > Florida > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:20:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:20:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pecan Varieties for Higley, AZ Pecans can be grown successfully for landscape purposes but notes from my Master Gardener classes a few years back indicate that the tree is both a space hog (needs 30' distance from other trees and buildings) and water hog (50 gallons/day for a mature tree when fruiting). Flood irrigation is a good route for pecans. If nut crop production is a consideration and you can only plant one tree, you will need to pick a partially self-pollinating variety. For higher production, cross-pollination is a must. Western Schley can self-pollinate. Success, Wichita, Mohawk, Barton and Bradley are other recommendations for home plantings below 2000' elevation. I also seem to remember some minimum chill requirements for pecans to produce. Again, I learned in class that Phoenix has an average 450 chill hours during the winter...I suppose Higley's could be higher. Ask the nursery where you make your purchase about chilling requirements. December through February is the time to plant bareroot stock. A tree normally requires 6-8 years to produce. We have a good publication on planting pecans, including water, fertilizing, pruning, etc. It's Q303 Pecans for Landscaping and is available for $1 at Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener fil2145@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best varity of pecan tree to plant in the Higley, Az. area? Where can you buy them as a bare root? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:22:10 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:22:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation for Gardenia & Winter Turf I agree that your turf irrigation schedule is too much and is probably what is having a negative impact on your other plants. The schedule you describe may have been necessary for the initial 7-10 days when the soil surface should be kept moist for seeds to germinate. However, eventually the watering interval should be reduced to weekly (perhaps every other week in very cold weather). The objective is to water long enough to keep about the top six to 8 inches moist; let your system run 1/2 hour and then measure the moisture level with a screwdriver. Adjust the time accordingly. You risk turf disease from this watering frequency. As to gardenias, they are not the easiest plants to grow here, as they prefer acidic soil and a bit more humidity (which is not the same as frequent sprinkling from your lawn system). Generally we recommend a single deep watering weekly in the summer (every 21 days in the winter). They are particularly succeptable to chlorosis, and in addition to acidifyng material, periodic applications of iron chelate to prevent iron chlorosis, are recommended. Your gardenias are not blooming because this is not ordinarily the time of year to do so (although given recent 80 degrees in January, who knows what could develop!). Popular varieties for southern Arizona are 'Mystery', which is a larger plant, but with a short bloom period in spring to early summer, and Veitchii which is a bit smaller but a prolific bloomer during May (and sometimes into the summer). We have a good publication on the topic MC29 Gardenias and Camellias. You can pick it up (free) at the Extension office, or send your request along with $1 for the publication, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener helend5@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 2 questions. > > 1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help. > > 2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:31:44 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:31:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Yellowing Twisted Cereus If you have not already received an answer, permit me to suggest the helpline at the Desert Botanical Garden that is available Monday through Friday from 10 to 11:30am (PN 480/941-1225). Their website is www.dbg.org. I personally do not have the experience to assist you, but I'm sure the folks over there will. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bronwenjones@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My (twisted) Cereus (Senita?) has turned > light yellow. All other Cereus within > 25 feet appear normal, including a large > Suguaro. What causes this and what > should I do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:38:44 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:38:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Containing Desert primroses Desert primrose can indeed be very invasive. Lack of water can contain its growth; since they are planted under a tree with low water requirements could this be an option for you? Manual removal will be necessary (or spraying with a systemic as you noted). The other suggestion I would have springs from similar experiences with invasive herbs. I plant many in 5 gallon containers (bottoms removed) that have been buried in the ground in order to contain the root systems. You might consider trying this (or some sort of garden edging material since I don't believe this is a very deep rooted plant). Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped > flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking > that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a > shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take > them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or > whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all > my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years > ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much > appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:49:45 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:49:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Limes in Winter Hi Louise, Among all the citrus, limes are extremely cold sensitive. They need to be planted in warm areas and protected from cold and wind. They are only recommended in the warmest parts of the Salt River Valley and the Yuma Mesa. It does not sound like it has been placed in a very good location. For more information on protecting your tree against the cold, check out our publication AZ 1002 Frost Protection at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf Most limes ripen from mid to late summer through November. Fruit drop at this time seems reasonable. Did you try a few to taste them? Color is not always an indication of ripeness. (Mexican limes will be more tart than the other recommended variety, Bearss). I don't know what the blackness on the leaves is. Is the tree sprayed with water from a sprinkler (which we wouldn't recommend)? Perhaps its a mildew from a combination of water and cold. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Louise_Howden@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Recovery of Neglected Citrus Hi Jim, You indicate that the trees were severely stressed several years ago, but do not mention your care practices since that time. Sound fertilization and watering habits are a must, especially in a recovery effort. We have such a fact sheet, MC 8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus which may be of interest to you. You can pick it up free at the Extension office or send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 There are some other publications that could be of interest such as 8464 Citrus Trees in the Home Garden and 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona. Each again will cost $1 if ordered by mail. As to the issue of soil fertility, an analysis can always be helpful and will help you to target more specifically your citrus' trace mineral needs. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they > were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back > are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the > fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the > the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find > out what it will take to get them to start growing again. > > Thank You in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 15 Jan 2000 14:09:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 14:09:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Nonallergenic Trees Hi Mark, Trees recommended in our publication on this topic (MC 62) include the Palo Verdes (Cercidiums), Catclaw and Sweet Acacia (which has a heavenly smell with its blooms about now; have your wife check it out at the DBG in case it will trouble her), Ironwood (Olneya tesota), Feather tree (Lysiloma), and Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis). Other trees to avoid are African Sumac, Olive and Mulberry. You should have a happy tree....most of the front yards in my neighborhood have majestic specimens over all the old septic tanks! Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener m1afreeman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. > > Mark > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) From: loriyoungdahl@uswest.net loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Texas Sage bushes in groups of four along our north retaining wall. There is space between each group of four for something else (designed by previous owner). What spot of color (doesn't necessarily have to be flowers) could be planted that has the same watering requirements as the Texas Sage. By the way, what is the proper amount and frequency of water that they need? From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:07:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:07:30 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:04:55 EST Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:04:55 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea Trellis Sandra and Phillip, I've used wood trellis for over 20 years without having a problem with termites. However the trellis that you buy at most nurseries are not heavy enough to hold the load of a mature bougainvillea. I've resorted to building my own out of 1 inch by 1 1/2 inch lumber. Good luck. Rod From rjezeski@aol.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:28:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:28:38 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I PURCHASED A ARIZONA ORANGE TREE IN JULY OF 1999,HAD IT PLANTED PROFESSONALLY,IT WAS A 24 GALLON SIZE.CURRENTLY ALL THE LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF.IT BLOSSEMED FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.NOW I SEE THAT I'M GETTING SMALL LIMBS GO DEAD. I WATER THE TREE IN THE SUMMER TWICE A WEEK FOR 1 HOUR AT A TIME,NOW I'M WATERING TWICE A WEEK BUT FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES AT A TIME.I HAVE NOT FERTILIZED AT ALL.I WAS GOING TO DO THAT IN FEBR.& MARCH. IS MY TREE DYING OR IS THIS NORMAL.MY GRAPEFRUIT TREE HAS ALL OF ITS LEAVES TURNING YELLOW. I ALSO HAVE NOTICED ON THE ORANGE TREE THE LEAVES LOOK LIKE SOMETHING COULD HAVE BEEN EATING AWAY ON THEM. PLEASE HELP ME,WE JUST MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN AND CARING FOR TREE THERE ARE DIFFERENT THEN HERE. I ALSO CUT OFF ALL OT THE DEAD BRANCHES ON THE ORANGE TREE. From milkintaz@cs.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) From: milkintaz@cs.com milkintaz@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When do we first fertilize our citrus trees this year? From godnwife@msn.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:32:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:32:21 -0700 (MST) From: godnwife@msn.com godnwife@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I removed a Mesquite tree and found numerous larva in the earth around and under the tree. Approximate size 7/8" dia by about 2" to 3" long. ivory in color and where the head was a brown color and has a pointed rear with a accordian shaped body. I removed most of them and placed them in a 5 gal.plastic bucket with earth about 1/2 full. What are they? Thank for any info. Regards Phil From honaker@swlink.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:29:56 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:29:56 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Nominations for School and Community Garden Awards Time Sensitive Information! 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Garden Awards DEADLINE Postmark by JANUARY 20, 2000 SPONSORED BY Let's Get Growing in conjunction with the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference "Growing Awareness" February 25-27, 2000 Phoenix, Arizona C A L L F O R N O M I N A T I O N S Each year the Southwest Region Community and School Gardening conference honors individuals, gardens and business for their outstanding efforts in the areas of community and school gardening in the Southwest. Awards are presented at the "Seeds for Change - Garden Basket Reception" and Awards evening. We are asking for your assistance to nominate outstanding efforts and programs in the states of AZ, CA, CO, NM, NV, TX, UT. Categories for awards include: · Outstanding Community Garden · Outstanding School Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a Community Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden · Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a Community Garden Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a School Garden D E T A I L S Deadline: Nomination must be postmarked by January 20, 000 Award winners will be notified by January 31, 2000. Award presentation will take place at Seeds for Change-Garden Basket Reception 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Saturday - February 26, 2000 at the Arizona Science Center - Phoenix, AZ A representative from your garden must be present at Award Ceremony to receive award. Award winners will receive: Two complimentary tickets to Seeds for Change Event. Additional tickets may be purchased at $75 each. All other transportation and hotel accommodations are the responsibility of award winner. H o w t o S u b m i t N o m i n a t i o n s: 1. Provide information for each item listed in the award category you have selected. 2. Submit on White paper. Do not to exceed 2 double spaced pages. 3. Please include the address/location of the garden and contact person information. 4. Enclose 4 representative slides or photos. These will not be returned. If you are selected as a winner, you may be asked to submit additional photos or slides. AWARD CATEGORIES Outstanding Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Explain the utilization of the Garden space. · How many pounds of food does the Garden produce annually? · Who gets the food produced in the garden? · How does the Garden build community? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to get along and motivate others · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to community gardening Outstanding School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · How is the Garden used as a learning space? · How many children utilize the Garden annually? · How is the Garden produce utilized? · How does the Garden interact with your community? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to motivate others and interact with students · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to school gardening Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this Agency's: · Personnel support (i.e. volunteers, employee participation incentives) · Administrative support (i.e. publishing of documents, grant writing) · Financial support (i.e. grants, in-kind services, office space, equipment) · Legislative support (i.e. policy development, advocacy) Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a School Garden Nomination Criteria (use same criteria listed above for Community Garden) Checklist Remember to Include: 4 Slides or Photos of your Garden Nomination Letter (2 typed pages maximum) Your Contact Information Postmark Application by January 20, 2000 Submit Nomination(s) to: Kristen Battafarano CSG Awards U of A Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Questions? Contact Kristen Battafarano P: 602-470-8086 ext. 356 CF: 602-470-8092 E: kbattafa@ag.arizona.edu From honaker@swlink.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:25:00 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:25:00 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Join us for the 3rd Annual SW Region Community and School Gardening Conference MARK YOUR CALENDARS! Plan to join us for the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference - February 25-27,2000 - Phoenix, AZ Unlike any conference you've been to before, this regional conference is hosted at a school practicing school gardening. This unique environment offers a one-of-a kind educational experience. From the line up of national and regional experts, to the hands-on training and networking activities, this conference will give you the tools and information to make your community or school garden a success! Information about the conference is listed below. Also check out our website (http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/aware.htm) to view more and download a registration form. If you would like to receive a conference brochure or have registration questions, please contact Cheryl Czaplicki at 602-942-3289 or email: j-c-czaplicki@worldnet.att.net WHO SHOULD ATTEND? This conference is designed specifically for those with interest in learning about gardening in a community or school setting. Areas of interest include: -Community Gardens -School Gardens -K-12 Educators & Administrators -Food Service Personnel -4/H -Youth Agencies -Public & Botanic Gardens -Horticultural Therapists -Community and Youth Leaders -Child Development Specialists AGENDA: HANDS-ON INSTITUTES (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 9:00 am - 2:00 pm The Farm at South Mountain 6106 S. 32nd Street - Phoenix - Get Growing - Art in the Garden I - Art in the Garden II - Community Food Security Round Table CURRICULUM EXPLORATION (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 10:00 am - 2:00 pm County Inn & Suites 808 N. Scottsdale Rd. - Tempe - Food, Land and People - Junior Master Gardeners Program - Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth & Comm. WELCOME RECEPTION Friday - February 25 4:30 - 7:00 p.m. Phoenix Zoo - Harmony Farms 455 N. Galvin Parkway - Phoenix -Early Registration, Tour, Hoe-Down Reception and Appetizers CONFERENCE - DAY 1 Saturday - February 26 7:00 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe KEYNOTE: Lily Yeh, Village for Arts and Humanities SESSION ONE A1. Jr. Master Gardener Program: Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth A2. The Children's Garden - "The Place for Curious Kids" B. How to Start and Maintain a Community Garden C. Vegetables and Flowers 101: How to Grow and Succeed in the SW D. Entrepreneuralism in Community Gardens E. Gardening + Art + Architecture = Landscape Architecture F1. Volunteers: Finding Them F2. Attracting the Media: What you Need to know and do to get in the news G. Community Food Security: Growing Hope H. Preserving the Harvest: How to can, preserve and store food SESSION TWO A. A Classy Garden - Teaching Any Subject in a Garden Environment B. Partnership to Get and Sustain Land C1. Composting and Worms C2. Mysteries and Histories of Plant Names D. Heritage Gardening E. Garden Photography with Kids F. Volunteers: Keeping Them G. Getting School Garden Produce into the Lunchroom H. A Novel Raised Bed Growing System SESSION THREE A. Regional Breakout: Meet with Others from your Region B. Round Table Discussion: Where are we Now? C. Tours of Community and School Gardens D. Horticulture Jeopardy E. Art in the Garden: Explore the creativity you can add to your garden Agenda Subject to Change Track Legend: A= School Garden B= Community Garden C= Gardening Basics D= Innovative Programs E= Art in the Garden F = Management Tools G.= Nutrition and Food Security H. = Sustainable Practices SEEDS FOR CHANGE - GARDEN BASKET RECEPTION Saturday - February 26 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Arizona Science Center 600 E. Washington - Phoenix Sponsored by the Arizona Chefs for Sustainable Agriculture and Let's Get Growing. Renowned Arizona Chefs prepare tantalizing appetizers with produce grown by local school and community gardens. Also featured: -Silent Auction Fundraiser -Let's Get Growing Awards for outstanding school and community gardens in the Southwest. -Exhibits and Hands-On Exploration of Science Center Exhibits CONFERENCE - DAY 2 Sunday - February 27 8:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe Keynote: David Hawkins - The Edible Schoolyard General Session: Jim Flint - Kids Garden from Coast to Coast SESSION FOUR A. AZ School Garden Grant Winners: Meet 10 Schools from throughout Arizona B. Poster Gallery: Visit with Attendees to Learn More About their Projects. C. Meet the Winners of the Let's Get Growing Awards SESSION FIVE A1. Nature as a Classroom A2. The Garden and the 3 R's Meet! Integrating Reading, Writing and Math B. Community Gardening as a Community Building Tool C. Pest Management D. Grounds for Peace: Working with At Risk Youth in the Garden E. Gardens for Humanity: Art as a Process for Healing F. How to Evaluate Program Planning G1. Food in the Classroom with the Organic Trade Association G2. Tying Nutrition Curriculum to the Standards and Having Fun! H. Native Habitats Agenda Subject to Change Track Legend: A= School Garden B= Community Garden C= Gardening Basics D= Innovative Programs E= Art in the Garden F = Management Tools G.= Nutrition and Food Security H. = Sustainable Practices FEES: Before 2/1 After 2/1 (see registration form for more details on what each plan includes) Full Conference Plan $200 $250 Basic Conference Plan $175 $225 Group Rate $150 $N/A (Buy 3 regis. at Full or Basic Price. Then each additional reg. at group rate noted above) A La Carte: Before 2/1 After 2/1 One Day Sat. 2/26 $100 $150 One Day Sun. 2/27 $75 $125 Welcome Recep. $35 $35 *Seeds for Change $75 $75 (Buy Full Conf. Plan and bring a guest to Seeds for Change for $25) Hands on Institute - Friday 2/25 (Choose only one. Space is Limited) Before 2/1 After 2/1 Get Growing $30 $40 Art in the Garden I $30 $40 Art in the Garden II $30 $40 Food Security Round Table $10 $15 Curriculum I $20 $30 Curriculum II $20 $30 HOTEL INFORMATION: A block of rooms have been reserved for individual booking. Please book early! Mention CSG Conference to ensure a reservation at the low conference price. Hotel: Country Inn & Suites 808 N. Scottsdale Rd. - Tempe, AZ 85281 1-800-456-4000 Rates: $89 Single/Double $99 Triple/Quad (plus sales tax of 9.97%) *Complimentary Continental "plus" Breakfast included Deadline: Book by January 21, 2000 to reserve the low rate. After Jan 21, rate based upon availability TRANSPORTATION: Guests at the County Inn and Suites receive complimentary airport shuttle and van transportation to locations within a 5 mile radius of hotel. All service is offered between the hours of 6am-10:00 pm upon availability. Complimentary conference bus service will be provided between Laird Elementary, The Farm at South Mountain, Phoenix Zoo and Arizona Science Center. FEATURED SPEAKERS: Keynotes: David Hawkins, The Edible Schoolyard Lily Yeh, Village of Arts and Humanities Presenters: Jim Flint - National Gardening Association Leila Towry - Occidental College Kathryn DiMatteo - Organic Trade Association Tammy Ellsworth - USDA Leticia Lopez - Maricopa County Dept of Health Lisa Whittlesey - Texas A&M University Martha Sealy - Lollipop Gardens - Baton Rouge, LA Dee McLaughlin - New Mexico State University Priscilla Logan - Santa Fe, New Mexico Terry Mikel - University of Arizona Donna DiFrancesco, City of Mesa, AZ Steve Upson, The Nobel Foundation- Ardmore, Oklahoma Kay Studer, Ohio State University Linda Gray, The Family Habitat Garden Project Adele Seronde, Gardens for Humanity Cathy Cromell, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Jim Manley, Arizona Teacher of the Year And MORE! From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:10:42 -0700 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:10:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Texas Sage My Texas SAge has had no water applied and does not usually get any other than what falls from the sky. It is looking very sad (80% of leaves dry and fall off when touched) right now because we have had an unusually dry year. I plan to brush the plant to precipitate leaf fall this week, blow the area and then water. New leaves will come out and if I water about once a month the plant should look well soon. Water once a month in cool weather and every 2 weeks in the summer should be plenty to keep this plant looking fine. I would like one of the agave as contrast of leaf form next to sage. Jojoba does well with very little water. The Santa Rita cactus (turns purple in cool weather) would also be interesting. Hesperaloe is wonderful with its pink blooms most of the summer. One of the tall cactus would be sculptural next to that grey green leaf form. There just aren't many screening plants that are so effective as Texas sage on as little water as it takes. And it can make a great background for whatever you chose to showcase. On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) loriyoungdahl@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >We have Texas Sage bushes in groups of four along our north retaining >wall. There is space between each group of four for something else >(designed by previous owner). What spot of color (doesn't necessarily >have to be flowers) could be planted that has the same watering >requirements as the Texas Sage. By the way, what is the proper amount >and frequency of water that they need? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:23:45 -0700 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:23:45 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Recovery of Neglected Citrus You also need to consider going to the citrus field days that will be happening next week on both the east and west sides of Phoenix. We you there! On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 "Linda A. Guy" writes: >arid_gardener >Hi Jim, > >You indicate that the trees were severely stressed several years ago, >but do not >mention your care practices since that time. Sound fertilization and >watering >habits are a must, especially in a recovery effort. We have such a >fact sheet, >MC 8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus which may be of interest to you. You >can pick >it up free at the Extension office or send $1 to > >Home Horticulture Publications >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension >4341 E. Broadway Road >Phoenix, AZ 85040 > >There are some other publications that could be of interest such as >8464 Citrus >Trees in the Home Garden and 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona. >Each >again will cost $1 if ordered by mail. > >As to the issue of soil fertility, an analysis can always be helpful >and will >help you to target more specifically your citrus' trace mineral >needs. > >Good luck, >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago >they >> were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the >back >> are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem >as the >> fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as >the >> the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need >to find >> out what it will take to get them to start growing again. >> >> Thank You in advance. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 16 Jan 2000 06:54:44 -0700 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 06:54:44 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Bougainvillea Bougainvillea gets quite woody and supports itself well. Mine was higher than the house and had not any support. For young vines, I like the various electrical conduits because they can be pounded into the ground like a stake and fit over each other and some rebar (concrete reinforcements). They can be painted any color and, in the 7 years I've been using them, have not caused any harm to any plant. The smallest rebar fits into the 1/2 inch metal which fits into the 3/4 inch metal which fits into the 1 inch. I have a pipe bender for the 1/2 inch pipe and bending it just a little keeps the 1/2 inch from disappearing into the 3/4 inch. The nesting helps when you are trying to make an arbor or extend length beyond 10 feet. A small hole into any of these pipes allows you to put a stop screw in to secure the thing. An electric drill can make this hole and a little cutting oil helps the drill accomplish this faster. When you want to remove the pipe, use 2 pipe wrenches applied in opposite directions and sort of screw the pipe out while lifting on the wrench handles (it is hard but not impossible for a woman) or just cut the thing off at ground level with a pipe cutter or hack saw and pound the stump down so you won't trip over it. There have been times when I put a rebar into a ground level cut off pipe when the plant needed support after I thought it could manage on its own....... But, if you leave such a pipe, be sure to put a rock near it so no one trips over the stump! The cheapest part of all this nesting metal is the 1/2 inch electrical conduit: about $1.40, so that is the part I start with and use most. On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) rancher@phnx.uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis > to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea > Vines > > To Whom It May Concern: > > We have a back wall of cinder block > which stands 6' high. We have planted > bougainvillea vines. Over the past few > years they have grown heavy and we would > like to ask you your opinion for the > best method of "supporting" this weight. > > A wooden trellis might be eaten by > termites. A metal trellis might absorb > the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. > > Is there a "neutral" material that can > be used for a support for our vines? > > We certainly would appreciate a response. > > Sincerely, > > Sandra & Philip Block > > e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:30:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gardening with Physical Disabilities Another avenue would be to start at the American Horticultural Therapy Association's website http://www.ahta.org/index.html In their publications list, they include design plans such as you requested for about $4. There are other websites dedicated to bringing gardening and its benefits to those for whom traditional garden access is not an option. A good search engine would turn up more than a few; I know mine did using 'horticultural therapy' as a topic. Linda Guy Master Gardener rcbrobin@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rlmcmm@juno.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:26:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:26:51 -0700 (MST) From: rlmcmm@juno.com rlmcmm@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What varieties of strawberries do you recommend for growing sustainable, productive crops in the Phoenix area? Most of the discount stores sell Sequoia which do not appear well suited to the local climate. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:24:42 EST Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:24:42 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Railroad ties for planters Hello, The park where I live has been offered a bunch of free railroad ties and the landscape committee would like to know if the creosote would harm plants. The ties would be used to make planters against a sloping bank. Thanks, Jean From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:48:33 EST Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:48:33 EST From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Greenhouse in AZ I'm happy to find someone else gardening in a greenhouse even though you are not in Arizona. I am growing vegetables of all kinds in my greenhouse that has only been here since march last year. I have a small oil filled electric radiator for overnight because the temperature actually follows the outside temp. It probably would stay above freezing without it but I have tomatoes and bell peppers growing like mad if I keep it over 60 with the heater. Our night-time temperatures right now average about 45. It (the greenhouse temp) gets to about 80 - 85 in the daytime with the windows open with no fan. Last summer we put in an evaporative cooler to keep it down and it was still difficult and most things just hung on til cooler weather. We covered it on the outside roof with shade screen and that didn't have any effect on the temperature. I had put in grow lights because it is against the house on the southeast side and doesn't get sun for 6 hours like recommended, and they are on all day, 7am to 7pm. My main problem is insects, mainly whiteflies and they are horrible. I just sent for a batch of ladybugs from Burpee. ( they surely won't leave would they?) One thing I recommend is finding compact plants that produce full size vegetables because growth is so amazing that you will run out of space. I have tomatoes, peppers, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, lettuce, garlic, strawberries (in hanging baskets) onions, irises, miniatures roses, and I keep sticking more things here and there. This sounds like a lot of stuff but there are only about 4 each of most things. From lm1127@webtv.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:07:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:07:02 -0700 (MST) From: lm1127@webtv.net lm1127@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Yucca problem I have a Yucca aloifolia ( spanish bayonet) that looks like it could be dying. About a month or 2 ago, I first noticed that the leaves were getting long pale splotches on them and the end of the leaves looking brown. It seems to be getting gradually worst. The leaves are beginning to wilt now, too. Is there anything I can do? Any plant food that it might be needing? From elyob@surnames.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:42:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:42:19 -0700 (MST) From: elyob@surnames.com elyob@surnames.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have grab or nut grass in our veggie garden area and we want to nuke it. Is "Manage" an herbacide good to use or shall we do something else? Your help is appreciated. From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 17 Jan 2000 09:12:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 09:12:15 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Citrus fertilizing February, May & August. There is a citrus event scheduled for January every year call 602-470-8086 to register to attend. On Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) milkintaz@cs.com writes: >arid_gardener >When do we first fertilize our citrus trees this year? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From ranchand@worldnet.att.net Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:11:41 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:11:41 -0700 From: Jake Nash ranchand@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree Question --=====================_3183382==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi, Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land? I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves. I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona. I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land. I'd appreciate any information you can provide. Sincerely, Jake Nash --=====================_3183382==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi,
Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land?  I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves.  I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona.
I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land.
I'd appreciate any information you can provide.
Sincerely,
Jake Nash 
--=====================_3183382==_.ALT-- From TAZ3R@aol.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:01:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:01:12 -0700 From: by way of Patti Baciewicz TAZ3R@aol.com Subject: [AG] My lawn Hi, I want to "redo" my yard. I would like to kill the grass that is there and lay sod. Can you tell me how to kill the grass that is there & then how to prepare the soil for the sod? What type of sod would you suggest? I want blades not runners. I am from the Midwest & a thick lush yard is very important to me. If you can't help me could you direct me to someone who can? Thank you! From pacarlson1@aol.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:17:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:17:49 -0700 (MST) From: pacarlson1@aol.com pacarlson1@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to AZ. I have a lemon, grapefruit and tangelo trees approx. 9 yrs. old. I would like info on how to care, water, prune trees. I have a drip system and need to know correct amt. of water to provide. Trees look overgrown, need to know how to prune. Also fruit is splitting on lemon tree. Last yr. lemons were huge, this yr. very small, why? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:21:00 EST Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:21:00 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Nut Grass The herbicide Manage is probably the best available to control nut grass. Be sure to follow the instructions OnTime package. It will take more than one application. Good luck. Rod From azdragon33@hotmail.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:02:09 MST Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:02:09 MST From: Patricia Coburn azdragon33@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Spots on succulent-like cacti I have several thick succulent-like cacti growing in pots. In the last month, I have noticed rust colored spots, some, but not all, are like blisters under the "skin" of the plant. I do hot have any of these on my other cacti plants. Can someone help identify this? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From pwenter@chw.edu Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:30:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:30:49 -0700 (MST) From: pwenter@chw.edu pwenter@chw.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. From kitteakat@aol.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:29:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:29:32 -0700 (MST) From: kitteakat@aol.com kitteakat@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 lantanas in my yard. One looks great, big and in bloom. The other doesn't look very big, no blooms, ends look very dry and leaves are a brown/purple color. What is wrong and what should I do? From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:37:18 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:37:18 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Sequoia strawberries A friend at the community garden planted strawberries that bloomed pink. They were very interesting and he insisted that they had been labeled "Sequoia". He grew them 2 years hoping for wonderful strawberries before he removed them since his reason for growing them was the berries. I have grown Sequoia and they never bloomed pink. The Sequoia i grew did not come from a discount place. My berries were planted in 3 4-foot beds under grapes and shaded from April to May, when the grapes got enough foliage to protect the strawberries. My plants started bearing in late March and continued into June. They had big berries and had to be protected against birds. They continued for about 3 years before I left them one summer without adequate water while I was away. Strawberries need lots of shade during June - September but none during October - March. October - November is the right time to plant them and, with proper water and fertilizer, they will bear the next spring and for a couple of years. Planting with grapes is problimatical since the grapes are going dormant (needing water withheld) right when the strawberries are needing to make runners and prepare next years berry buds. The grapes act like an evaporative cooler for the strawberrries during hot weather. Asparagus did not provide enough shade for strawberries and made protection from birds very difficult. The birds are a major problem and even with close cover a few berries will be damaged...... perhaps lizards like berries too. On Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:26:51 -0700 (MST) rlmcmm@juno.com writes: >arid_gardener >What varieties of strawberries do you recommend for growing >sustainable, productive crops in the Phoenix area? Most of the >discount stores sell Sequoia which do not appear well suited to the >local climate. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:57:53 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:57:53 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Yucca problem It might be that your original yucca is simply suffering from so little water in the past 4 months. Water it well and see if it improves. You can cut off the top, move it to a new area with some shade and try to root it. You might want to try it with only part of your original plant. a gallon jug with the bottom removed can be put over the cutting to help increase humidity and reduce wind drying (I like cranberry juice jugs because the bottom can be sawed off with a bread knife). Leave the cap off. A little root homone would probably help. When I did mine, it was in a vegetable garden and treated like just another vegetable. Yucca needs a little shade in the low desert even after it has roots and you might want to treat the area where your original yucca is growing with diazinon in case you have agave weevil infesting the area. >arid_gardener >I have a Yucca aloifolia ( spanish bayonet) >that looks like it could be dying. About a month or 2 ago, I first >noticed that the leaves were getting long pale splotches on them and >the >end of the leaves looking brown. It seems to be getting gradually >worst. >The leaves are beginning to wilt now, too. Is there anything I can >do? >Any plant food that it might be needing? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From palshatti@uswest.net Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) From: palshatti@uswest.net palshatti@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it had a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the flesh is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. From henryr@kaibab.com Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:28:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:28:50 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to overtill (rototiller) a patch of ground set aside for gardening someday? I till in composted leaves,etc. every 5-6 months just to keep my tiller operational. I do find lots of earthworms when I do the tilling. How often can I till my gardening area? From AZSpots@aol.com Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:30:11 EST Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:30:11 EST From: AZSpots@aol.com AZSpots@aol.com Subject: [AG] Goat Heads My dogs pick up some kind of very sharp pricker/thorn that the neighborhood kids call "goats heads" (because they look like horns on a head up close). I've seen these all over Phx and don't want to plant whatever makes them in my yard. Do you know what plant produces them? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:14:31 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:14:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Goat Heads ----- Original Message ----- From: , Wednesday, January 19, 2000 3:30 PM > > My dogs pick up some kind of very sharp pricker/thorn that the neighborhood > kids call "goats heads" (because they look like horns on a head up close). > I've seen these all over Phx and don't want to plant whatever makes them in > my yard. Do you know what plant produces them? > Following is an edited excerpt from the arid_gardener archive at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0285.html "When we moved to our current home [...] there were large patches of goat heads (aka puncture vine) [Tribulus terrestris L.] growing all over the place. We have very diligently destroyed every plant we've seen ever since, before they go to seed, and the population is dwindling but we still have a few new plants each year, possibly by bringing them in from the desert on shoe soles and bicycle tires. But it's more likely they're residual seeds from the old plants that are finally germinating. There are typically 2 to 5 seeds in each caltrops-like, hard seed capsule that may be dormant for years until moisture conditions are right for germination. In an irrigated garden situation such as yours, it may take only a few years for all of the seeds to germinate. ..." Olin From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 19 Jan 2000 06:25:35 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 06:25:35 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Lantana Some of the lantanas turn red - purple - brown in reaction to cool weather. They like sun but survive in shade. Very few bloom in cool weather. My white and purple ones have a few blooms and are quite dark leaved right now in Janauary. The yellow ones look dead and the red mixed colored ones have healthy-looking green leaves. All of them will look better as the weather warms. The yellow one will take a while to bloom when it gets warmer but will put out new leaves. They are good plants for the Phoenix area and bloom with less water than many annuals need. You may be doing everything right. They don't need much care. Generally my lantana get water once a week all year, less in cool weather than hot. One of the yellow lantanas is growing in the driveway 6 feet from my vegetables and never gets any water applied directly upon it. It is very dry now but will probably recover with warmer weather just as it has for the last 4 years each spring. And I park my car on top of it a couple of times each week when I work in that community garden! On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:29:32 -0700 (MST) kitteakat@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I have 2 lantanas in my yard. One looks great, big and in bloom. The >other doesn't look very big, no blooms, ends look very dry and leaves >are a brown/purple color. What is wrong and what should I do? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From TAEHYRD@AOL.COM Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:48:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:48:27 -0700 (MST) From: TAEHYRD@AOL.COM TAEHYRD@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are Lilacs available that will grow in phoenix ? If so where can I find them. I have seen plants in offered by Park seeds but they will not ship to AZ. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:30:28 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:30:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Lilac Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: , Wednesday, January 19, 2000 6:48 PM > arid_gardener > Are Lilacs available that will grow in phoenix ? If so where can I find them. I have seen plants in offered by Park seeds but they will not ship to AZ. > >>A friend told me that a "lilac" has been developed that will >> thrive in the Phoenix climate. Can you find out. If so, where >>can I purchase. The lush, large-plumed lilac most people are familiar with probably will not bloom here. Consider Persian lilacs instead. The following is from the arid_gardener archive dated June 9, 199 at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3273.html "We have one that was tagged as a "Persian Lilac" when we bought it about 15 years ago. Actually bought 2 but one didn't survive. I think it must be "Syringa persica" because it fits the description in "Sunset Western Garden Book" Ours is 7-foot tall bush that blooms for about one month in the spring (during Lent). Blossoms are very fragrant, look like common lilac but are smaller and are pale in color, perhaps more pinkish that lilac-colored. We started 2 more last year by chopping off a section off the side of the bush, including the root, and planting it - still look okay but growth is pretty slow. Watering is irregular and infrequent - whenever we think it might need it. Any garden center or nursery should be able to get it for you. Olin MIller From canegrande@rocketmail.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:17:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:17:00 -0700 (MST) From: canegrande@rocketmail.com canegrande@rocketmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am seeking advice on the care of some citrus trees. I live on a little less that a quarter of an acre and there are 6 grapefruit trees and 2 ornamental orange trees. Irragation is the means by which they are watered and to me they seem ok. there are a few though that are not doing so good. On some of the trees it looks as though they are about to die. The main branches are loosing their bark and where the bark has peeled away the main core of the tree is dead. It looks as if the only way the tree is sendeing water and nutriens to the branches is through the remaining bark that has not fallen off. this bark that is still attached to the trees is always in the shade. Does the sun cause this damage? If so what can i do to fix the trees and still have some good yeilds? Or do I need to prune it back? The trees are at least 30 years old? Please advise. thank you, scott From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:11:41 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:11:41 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fig Tree Losing Leaves Is this fig a fruit tree (which is deciduous and would be virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you provide the variety? Linda Guy pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:40:31 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:40:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Growing Grapes in Containers I have never heard of anyone cultivating grapes in containers. From my personal experience (which is a bit old, I'll grant you) of growing grapes in the ground, the biggest challenge would be for you to provide ample trellising capability for what can be substantial vines. This is not, however, to say that it can't be done. If you try it this season, please write us back and share your experiences. We'd love to learn more! Grape growing was not thought to be the most easy home gardening experience in my master gardener classes. We have an excellent publication on grape growing MC 59 Backyard Grapes (which echoes this sentiment) which you can get by mailing $1 to (if you pick it up it's free) Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Happy growing! Linda Guy Master Gardener info@viapro.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Watched TV this morning about growing grapes in AZ. I'm wondering if it is possible to grow grapes in pots (lg of course)In case I move will they travel? Grapes look like fun. Thank you for your response. Have a Great Day > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:57:14 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:57:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Strawberries for Maricopa County Strawberries will grow in our county, but do require good care as they are an acid-loving plant and our soils are alkaline. As you already noted, variety selection is key. There are two types: June-bearing or one crop per year types (Sequoia, Tioga, Lassen, Shasta, & Tufts) and everbearing types (Douglas, Chandler, Gem, Streamliner & Ozark Beauty). June-bearers are thought to do better than everbearing types, but these are often allowed to fruit for one year and then are replaced the following fall for maximum production. (Strawberries have to be coddled in our intense summers.) We have a good, four-page publication 8665 Strawberries for Home Gardens that describes site considerations, soil prep, planting, varieties, culture and treatment of problems. I would recommend you get a copy. Most public libraries have a reference copy of our horticulture pubs, but you can also send $1 to (or go to the office to pick it up for free at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Watch out for those birds which may well beat you to your crop! Linda Guy Master Gardener GeorgeandShell@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:00:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:00:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Creosote In personal experience with creosote and any other native plants in the landscape, the lushness will be directly proportional to the water received. If the plants are not on a system, they will continue to grow in a fashion that approximates what they do normally in the desert. Add some occassional watering, particularly in the summer, and you will have a lushly green creosote. We generally recommend that no pruning should remove more than one third of a plant. However, I too have pruned these and other desert plants like brittlebush fairly severely, based on experimentation, and later confirmed by a landscape instructor at the Desert Botanical Garden. However, I do not do this type of pruning now, when there is still some cold/frost risk. My pruning of many indigenous plants is usually in the April/May timeframe. Sprouting wood can help me see what is productive and what is dead. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jrnelson@asu.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > How should I prune the creosote bushes that grow in our yard. The have grown leggy and unattractive so I cut them back severely. Now I want to encourage them to grow more densely and and limit their height to about 36 inches. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:01:10 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:01:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves Paul, While Mission does fairly well in this elevation, Brown Turkey is only a moderate performer, preferring the 2000 - 3000 foot elevations, according to our publication MC23 Home Grown Figs. This is the month for any annual pruning you might care to do; our pub has suggestions for handling trees about your size to encourage low branching and to select key limbs which will eventually be the core of the canopy. Figs normally bear two crops, first in June on the old wood and later in the summer through October on the new wood. They are extremely tolerant of neglect: I prune my next door neighbor's figs that are half in my yard. He never waters them (nor do I since that portion of my xeriscaped yard is essentially without irrigated material), nor are they ever fertilized; they are prolific producers nonetheless, although this may not last forever. In the summer, we suggest irrigating mature trees ever two weeks or so. One third that amount is considered adequate in the winter. Be careful not to overwater your tree, which you sound at risk for at this time. They are susceptible to Texas Root Rot. Fertilizer is suggested in January and May: 2 cupfuls each time in the second year, adding one total additional cup per year until year 5 when you can treat this as a mature tree with different fertilization standards. I really recommend the publication referenced above which you can get by sending $1 to (or get it for free if you can swing by the office at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > It's a fruit tree. Planted from a 2 gal container. It's about 4'9" tall > and 1" diameter. It said mission fig on one part of the tree and brown > turkey fig on another part of the tree. > > thx > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:12 AM > To: pwenter@chw.edu > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > Is this fig a fruit tree (which is deciduous and would be > virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you provide the variety? > > Linda Guy > > pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be > doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). > It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if > the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at > night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's > getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes > space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > > Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:05:41 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:05:41 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Strawberries for Maricopa County Strawberries will grow in our county, but do require good care as they are an acid-loving plant and our soils are alkaline. As you already noted, variety selection is key. There are two types: June-bearing or one crop per year types (Sequoia, Tioga, Lassen, Shasta, & Tufts) and everbearing types (Douglas, Chandler, Gem, Streamliner & Ozark Beauty). June-bearers are thought to do better than everbearing types, but these are often allowed to fruit for one year and then are replaced the following fall for maximum production. (Strawberries have to be coddled in our intense summers.) We have a good, four-page publication 8665 Strawberries for Home Gardens that describes site considerations, soil prep, planting, varieties, culture and treatment of problems. I would recommend you get a copy. Most public libraries have a reference copy of our horticulture pubs, but you can also send $1 to (or go to the office to pick it up for free at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Watch out for those birds which may well beat you to your crop! Linda Guy Master Gardener GeorgeandShell@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 16:24:53 EST Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 16:24:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig tree Both the edible and the ornamental figs are frost tender. If you live in the Phoenix area particularly in the out lying areas there have been several nights when the fig trees could be frost burned if not adequately protected. Sounds like your irrigation schedule is ok for now, however as the tree matures you will need to move your drippers outward away from the trunk to irrigate near the dripline of the tree. You will also need to increase the number and the size of the drippers. Water should be penetrating to the three foot depth which can be accomplished by adjusting the irrigation interval. Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:12:43 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:12:43 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemon rind Fertilizer causes thick rinds. Are you sure that you don't have a tree from below the graft (rough lemon)? More water (but not watering more often than every 10 days) during the heat and as the fruit ripens might help the juicyness of the fruit or pick it sooner. On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) palshatti@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it had >a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit >has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the flesh >is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit >quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). >Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From reeva5@speedchoice.com Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: reeva5@speedchoice.com reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:54:12 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:54:12 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Railroad ties for planters Jean and all: A comment on your railroad tie offer. If it were me I would accept them only if I planned to use them on ornamental plants. The creosote and some of its components will leach over time out of the ties and therefore, I would personally not recommend you use them for growing anything you will eat. Mary JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, > > The park where I live has been offered a bunch of free railroad ties and the > landscape committee would like to know if the creosote would harm plants. > The ties would be used to make planters against a sloping bank. > > Thanks, Jean > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:17:29 EST Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:17:29 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus bark peeling Scott, Trees and plants usually thrive when watered with flood irrigation. The bark peeling on the limbs could be caused by sun burn if exposed to the sun, or could be caused by a fungus called Rio Grande Gummosis for which there is not a cure, however it is usually not fatal. If sunburn is the problem, any exposed to the sun limb or trunk should be painted white provided it still has bark. At 30 years your citrus trees are in their twilight years so be kind to them with proper fertilization and irrigation. An excellent bulletin titled "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden" is available for $1.00 from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, Az. 85040 Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 14:20:13 EST Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 14:20:13 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Prickly Pear with cottony insect The insect that you are asking about is called Cochineal Scale and is commonly found on Prickly Pear cactus. The good news is that it is quite easy to control. Simply wash the insect off the cactus with a strong stream of water. Be sure to remove all of the insects from the cactus. If left on the cacti the insect could eventually cause the demise of the cacti. The red insects were used by the Indians to make a dye. Good luck. Rod From mike.todd@asu.edu Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:38:50 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:38:50 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Cochineal infestation Hello: Indeed, your cacti are infested, but it's a pretty benign infestation...if it's not too far advanced. The cochineal beetle is the source of the white fuzz and the red liquid. Try the following web address for some detailed information on controlling cochineal infestations: http://www.arizonacactussales.com/tips/cochineal.htm Hope this helps. -Mike Todd PS. Interesting ethnobotanical information on cochineal can be found at this address: http://www.lifesci.ucla.edu/botgard/html/botanytextbooks/economicbotany/Cochineal/ arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 3 >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) >From: reeva5@speedchoice.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear >cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would >never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were >that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. >Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we >can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care >of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From tyjas@juno.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:32:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:32:25 -0700 (MST) From: tyjas@juno.com tyjas@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page With the so many problems with queen palms, how do you diagnose pink bud rot? From lencleo@aol.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:43:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:43:05 -0700 (MST) From: lencleo@aol.com lencleo@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you plant xamas pointsettas outside here in Chandler?If not,can you give me a little info on how to save them. Thank you very much for your time.. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:34:20 GMT Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:34:20 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: Prickly Pear Cactus The symptoms you describe sound like cochineal scale, an insect that feeds on prickly pear cactus. --- Several insect predators control this scale, including several species of lady beetles, syrphid flies and lacewing larvae. The cochineal scale grows at the base of needles of prickly pear cactus forming a mass of stringy whitish globs. This insect was highly prized by early explorers because the crushed bodies make a colorfast (red) dye. (from Arizona Master Gardener Manual) --- You may also try washing the insects off with a strong jet of water. In small areas, a spray of 50-50 rubbing alcohol and water may also be effective. You may want to remove pads that are severely infested. Linda Drew, Pima County Master Gardener =================================================== Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: reeva5@speedchoice.com To: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From CNJNAZ@aol.com Fri, 21 Jan 2000 17:08:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 17:08:17 -0700 (MST) From: CNJNAZ@aol.com CNJNAZ@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi. I live in the Scottsdale area and have a 35 year old mulberry tree that has a fungus growing from several branches. The color of the fungus is generally brown and ranges in size from baseball to softball. Any ideas on what it may be and how to get rid of it? One further note, in my neighborhood, there has been a longstanding practise of cutting the branches off the trees every winter. Thank you for your help, Chris From nikky@nwphx.quik.com Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:59:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:59:00 -0700 (MST) From: nikky@nwphx.quik.com nikky@nwphx.quik.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm trying to contact the Az. Federation of Garden Clubs, but have been unable to find a listing. They had a booth at the Home & Garen Show earlier this month, with small loquat trees for sale. I'm interested in purchasing one & learning more about this type of citrus. Thanks!!! From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:29:26 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:29:26 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Poinsettias There is a poinsettia bush growing on the south side of a home in my neighborhood which must be similar to a home in Chandler. It is right up against the house (under the eaves) and about 4-5 feet in diameter and tall. It was blooming beautifully in December. Sights like this are a good reason for taking a walk.....even when you don't like poinsettias. My sister visited Phoenix in 1947 and says that they were everywhere in town growing under the eaves where they would get the roof drippings. She also says that most of Phoenix was unirrigated at that time. Perhaps these few sentences can help you with your adventure. Maybe the reason they have become so popular is because they survive so long in dry places (heated homes) and continue to bloom (red bracts)...............which is exactly why I've become so prejudiced against them............ Rabbits usually won't eat things that bleed that white sap............. maybe I should reconsider my prejudice. On Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:43:05 -0700 (MST) lencleo@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Can you plant xamas pointsettas outside here in Chandler?If not,can >you give me a little info on how to save them. Thank you very much >for your time.. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:00 -0700 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:00 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] re: Prickly Pear Cactus I loved your information! Thank you. On Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:34:20 GMT "Linda Drew" writes: >arid_gardener >The symptoms you describe sound like cochineal >scale, an insect that feeds on prickly pear >cactus. > >--- >Several insect predators control this scale, >including several species of lady beetles, >syrphid flies and lacewing larvae. > >The cochineal scale grows at the base of needles >of prickly pear cactus forming a mass of stringy >whitish globs. This insect was highly prized by >early explorers because the crushed bodies make a >colorfast (red) dye. >(from Arizona Master Gardener Manual) >--- > >You may also try washing the insects off with a >strong jet of water. In small areas, a spray of >50-50 rubbing alcohol and water may also be effective. >You may want to remove pads that are severely >infested. > >Linda Drew, >Pima County Master Gardener >=================================================== >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) >From: reeva5@speedchoice.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am on the board of a association. >We were told that our prickley pear cactus >is infested with a beetle . We were told >that this beetle would never go away >and that we could do nothing about it. >The symptoms were that the cactus was >white, and when I broke it off red liquid >came out. Its this true?? What is the >name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that >we can save the cactus is tha >community? What is the best way to take >care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so >much for your help!!! > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:36 -0700 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:36 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemon rind Yesterday, while I was wandering around in Brookbank's "Desert Gardening" I ran across a passage that suggests that dry fruit can be the result of frost damage. I hadn't remembered that. The passage said that the next morning after the frost one should pick the fruit on the outside of the tree and juice it immediately because if left on the tree it would become dry. It further said that the fruit on the interior of the tree would have more protection from frost and might be okay to leave. Is the fruit on the outside of your tree less juicy than the fruit on the interior? On Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:12:43 -0700 Dawn G Kazmer writes: >arid_gardener Fertilizer causes thick rinds. Are you sure that >you don't have a tree from below the graft (rough lemon)? More >water (but not watering more often than every 10 days) during the heat >and as the fruit ripens >might help the juicyness of the fruit or pick it sooner. > >On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) palshatti@uswest.net writes: >>arid_gardener >>We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it >had >>a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit >>has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the >flesh >>is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit >>quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). >>Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. >> >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >>Archives - >_______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing >list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - > From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:03:03 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:03:03 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Cochineal scale Some cactii are more attractive to these biblical insects from which red dye has been made. The books suggest spraying the plant with a strong blast of water to "wash them off". I find that the creatures are "wearing raincoats". Also, most cactii don't need the kind of water it would take to blast them away. A cactus under attack from these insects won't survive rotted roots. My favorite master gardener uses Windex to penetrate their waxy protection. My favorite way is to remove them with a cue stick dipped in alcohol. Now this is very practical when there aren't very many of them. On my walks, I've seen such terrible infestations that I would remove the plant. One thing is certain: you will have to intervene because they won't just go away and will get worse. They are not good for the cactus which will decline under their predation. Also, every other cactus in the vicinity is going to be in danger of infestation. In my yard, the cactus to watch has very long thorns and none of the velvety glaucids. If I keep this cactus free of the cochineal scale, none of the others are bothered. A monthly inspection is all it takes and I found only one creature yesterday (at the base of a thorn)...... a 5 minute chore to do. In a cactus with glaucids, I would probably remove the worse infected pads or the entire plant or try the window cleaner.................windshield cleaner. You should probably rinse the cleaner off with water but don't use more water than necessary, especially in the winter. On Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) reeva5@speedchoice.com writes: >arid_gardener >I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley >pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle >would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The >symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red >liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is >there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the >best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for >your help!!! > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From ybear551@cs.com Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:01:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:01:50 -0700 (MST) From: ybear551@cs.com ybear551@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. for chilean mesquite one year old, and with a drip system, what is considered enough water, how many times a week. 2. should they be trimed this time of year. 3. same question for Oleander and bouginvia. At present time they are watered one hour a day every 4 days. If trimming is reccommended how much. name of a good book that covers these items for someone without a green thumb. Thanks and keep up the great work. Look forward to your answer. From jsbaumann@uswest.net Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:11:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:11:45 -0700 (MST) From: jsbaumann@uswest.net jsbaumann@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your area which provides similar information for the desert climate in Phoenix. I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. Could you make a recommendation in this regard? Many thanks. Sandra Baumann From kanoboy@worldnet.att.net Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:21:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:21:02 -0700 (MST) From: kanoboy@worldnet.att.net kanoboy@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? Does Prunus bear fruit? Is Prunus available in dwarf? Thank you so much! William From rice1@orbitworld.net Sun, 23 Jan 2000 10:18:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 10:18:47 -0700 (MST) From: rice1@orbitworld.net rice1@orbitworld.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was told by my brother, graduate student from LSU, that I could write to just about any university and ask about acquiring some samples of their wild flowers. Would you know how I can get in touch with some one here about just that. My wife and I have been all around Kentucky and you have some beautiful wild flowers. We are in the process of mulching our whole half acre back yard for just this purpose. We live south of Houston about 45 miles in a small town of Lake Jackson. I would be very pleased in getting some of your samples of any test wild flowers to plant. Thank you and God Bless Ed & Diana Richardson, SR. From mommyof3@home.net Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:07:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:07:33 -0700 (MST) From: mommyof3@home.net mommyof3@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase why? They stayed like this for months. 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? From rondolpie@aol.com Sun, 23 Jan 2000 19:21:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 19:21:49 -0700 (MST) From: rondolpie@aol.com rondolpie@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like fertilizing schedule for citrus trees From lsveith@swlink.net Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:38:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:38:25 -0700 (MST) From: lsveith@swlink.net lsveith@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Gilbert. I notice a lot of nurserys have Hibiscus for sale, however, I do not see that many in landscaping. I love Hisbiscus are there specific varieties, conditions and fertilizers necessary for them in the Gilbert area. Thanks for your response. From Kathleenbey@cs.com Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:59:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: Kathleenbey@cs.com Kathleenbey@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time of year to trim cape honeysuckle bushes? I live in the Phoenix area and my bushes are tall but the folage is looking sparce. From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:20:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:20:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Onion Project for School Although I grow onions and garlic in my home garden in Phoenix, I am unable to give you more than an educated guess about your science project. I find it interesting that you would put the onions in afternoon sun, shading them in the morning. Here, our onions grow in the cooler season (Oct-May) and we seek full sun (8 hours is a traditional objective for the vegetable patch) during the coolest part of this season; I'm not sure how vigorous our onions would grow with only 4 to 5 hours of afternoon light through Dec-Jan-Feb. [Our sunset is currently (1/24) 5:52pm.] Although daytime temps can seem pretty reasonable in the sun this time of year, shady areas are decidedly chillier. I realize that you are closer to the equator so that only afternoon sun exposure may generate closer to an 8 hour light requirement. However, if it does not, and your onions are in a cooler environment, perhaps the warmer water is simulating a longer/warmer day for this group of onions. It would be interesting to know when your onion growing season is and what your cultivating practices are. I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but wish you the best with your research project. Let us know the final results....Are you continuing to see the same response since the time you originally wrote to us on 1/7? Linda Guy Master Gardener manu10@gte.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm working on a science project for middle school and need some help. I planted some green onions in pots. We cut tops off of matured oninos and used their stocks. Then I watered 3 pots daily with 50 degree water and 3 with 70 degree water and 3 with 107 degree water. I thought that the 70 degree water would do the best but the 107 degree water grew faster and taller. Why would this happen. I live in Hawaii and the plants were in morning shade and afternoon sun. I watered in the early evenings. does something happen to the water or did we just make the climate more perfect for the onions with the hot water. I hope that you have the time for a answer to this emial. Mahalo > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:26:01 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:26:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves; Identifying Fig Varieties Hello again Paul, I looked at the Sunset Western Garden Book for a little assistance (pp 295-6). It suggests you could tell the different fig varieties by the color of the fruit. Brown Turkey (also known as San Piero or Black Spanish in other areas) has brownish/purple fruit. Mission (or Black Mission) has purple/black fruit. The latter is a much larger tree, but of course, you'll have to let yours grow a bit more to use that particular test! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > Thanks, I sure appreciate your help. Do you know how I can tell if my tree > is a turkey or a mission? thx > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 11:01 AM > To: Wenter, Paul - SBS > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > Paul, > > While Mission does fairly well in this elevation, Brown > Turkey is only a > moderate performer, preferring the 2000 - 3000 foot > elevations, > according to > our publication MC23 Home Grown Figs. This is the month for > any annual > pruning > you might care to do; our pub has suggestions for handling > trees about > your > size to encourage low branching and to select key limbs > which will > eventually > be the core of the canopy. > > Figs normally bear two crops, first in June on the old wood > and later in > the > summer through October on the new wood. They are extremely > tolerant of > neglect: > I prune my next door neighbor's figs that are half in my > yard. He never > waters > them (nor do I since that portion of my xeriscaped yard is > essentially > without > irrigated material), nor are they ever fertilized; they are > prolific > producers > nonetheless, although this may not last forever. In the > summer, we > suggest > irrigating mature trees ever two weeks or so. One third that > amount is > considered adequate in the winter. Be careful not to > overwater your > tree, > which you sound at risk for at this time. They are > susceptible to Texas > Root > Rot. > > Fertilizer is suggested in January and May: 2 cupfuls each > time in the > second > year, adding one total additional cup per year until year 5 > when you can > treat > this as a mature tree with different fertilization > standards. > > I really recommend the publication referenced above which > you can get by > sending $1 to (or get it for free if you can swing by the > office at): > > Home Horticulture Publications > University of Arizona Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway Road > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > > Good luck! > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > > > It's a fruit tree. Planted from a 2 gal container. It's > about 4'9" tall > > and 1" diameter. It said mission fig on one part of the > tree and brown > > turkey fig on another part of the tree. > > > > thx > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Linda A. Guy > [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:12 > AM > > To: pwenter@chw.edu > > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > > Subject: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > > > Is this fig a fruit tree (which is > deciduous and would be > > virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you > provide the variety? > > > > Linda Guy > > > > pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I planted a small fig tree last July. > It seemed to be > > doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth > in the Summer). > > It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to > dry up green as if > > the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree > when it gets cold at > > night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my > citrus trees. It's > > getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines > for 198 minutes > > space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > > > Is this okay? Am I doing something > wrong? thx. > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:32:17 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:32:17 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] male Persimmon trees Hi Judy, I can't answer your question but, since it has been around for a while and I don't believe any others of my colleagues here in Arizona were able to answer either, I'd like to suggest that your friend locate the Master Gardeners in his own geographic location. They can be contacted via his county's Cooperative Extension Office, which will be in their phone directory. These folks will surely be able to get him the assistance he needs. Linda Guy Master Gardener Judy.Hall@asu.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma who has several male Persimmon trees in his > back yard, southern exposure. The branches are being neatly cut off at the > bases by, he thinks, either net worms or web worms. He sprays with some kind > of pesticide periodically but the problem persists. I don't know what his > watering or fertilizing practices are. Is there anything he can > do to get rid of this problem for good? > Thx, > Judy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:39:47 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:39:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] ROSE TREES Did you notice last week's (Wednesday's) gardening columns in the Republic? Free pruning demos are being held Saturdays in January at the Extension Office from 8 to noon. Call Floyd Evans at 602/944-2198. Also the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society will have another free pruning demo from 9 to 10 am on Saturday 1/29. This is at the Mesa Community College garden; call Carol for more info at 480/895-7793. The column also recommended Hallie Beck's gook Roses in a Desert Garden. Have fun with those shears! Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > HERE IT IS JAN AND MY ROSES ARE BLOOMING BEAUTIFULLY. I HATE > TO CUT THEM BACK. WHAT SHOULD I DO? THANKS. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:51:47 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:51:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Acacia & Lysiloma Linda, Unlike deciduous fruit trees which are pruned during dormancy, we generally wait for native trees to emerge from the cool/winter season dormancy and start sprouting a bit before doing pruning. Recently, Mary Irish [formerly at Desert Botanical Gardens] wrote the following in response to a similar question on mesquite. It applies to your trees, which are also leguminous. "The cool part of the year is very inadvisable time to prune all desert legume trees, such as mesquite. They appear to have great limb die back and may be more susceptible to other infections when pruned at this time. The optimal time to prune them is when it is hot, from about April on. However, you should be aware that pruning later in the summer, from about July onwards, may also present a different kind of problem. The natural response to pruning in all trees is a stimulation of the production of new shoot growth. But this response can be overwhelming, particularly for mesquites when they are pruned too late in the hot weather. Consequently, you end up with twice the problem you had in the first place. So, timing is everything, but then isn't it always." Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener lm1127@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best time of year to prune these trees? My Acacia is a small > multi trunk tree (3 1/2- 4 yrs.old) I have occasionally pruned lower > branches and it looks pretty good. Now it looks like it's ready to have > several more removed, but I don't want to do it the wrong time of year. > I also have 2 Lysilomas. The one gets the puff balls followed by the > pods, but the other one doesn't. They are both 3 1/2 - 4 yrs. old. Could > it be the one is a different tree? Also , I have the same pruning > question for these trees. > Thanks for any advice. > > Linda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:32:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:32:30 -0700 (MST) From: cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Finally, a book about DESERT gardening. Thank you thank you thank you! After reading your book, I still though am unsure what location you would most recommend we start our garden. We live in PHX and I'm unsure which exposure is the best. Could you please help? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:41:08 GMT Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:41:08 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: Arizona Tree Seedling Program Arizona also has a program that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings. The saplings are actually grown back east and shipped here :-) The Arizona Tree Seedling Program Greenwood Nursery P. O. Box 686 McMinnville, Tenn. 37111 1-800-426-0958 for orders Typical costs are about $35 per 50 seedlings. All are well suited for our climates. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:11:41 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: "Jake Nash" (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Subject: [AG] Tree Question Hi, Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land? I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves. I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona. I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land. I'd appreciate any information you can provide. Sincerely, Jake Nash ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:00:11 GMT Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:00:11 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: publications on AZ plants One excellent source for landscaping with native plants is: Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke University of Texas Press ISBN 0-292-75147-8 (about $25) Arizona Native Plant Society (ANPS) also publishes a series of booklets. Booklets cover various topics such as trees and wildflowers. Cost is $2 per booklet - great color pictures. Many nurseries carry them or you can write to them: ANPS P. O. Box 41206 Sun Station Tucson, Arizona 85717 Linda Drew, Pima County Master Gardener ============================================= Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:11:45 -0700 (MST) From: jsbaumann@uswest.net To: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your area which provides similar information for the desert climate in Phoenix. I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. Could you make a recommendation in this regard? Many thanks. Sandra Baumann ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From lazyaz777@juno.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:20:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: lazyaz777@juno.com lazyaz777@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend an arborist, or how can I best go about getting a good qualified but not overly expensive arborist to check my trees. Thanks. Esther From greygoat@aol.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:26:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:26:15 -0700 (MST) From: greygoat@aol.com greygoat@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:25:59 EST Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:25:59 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Cape Honeysuckle Kathleen, Since Cape Honeysuckle grows quite rapidly it is often necessary to prune throughout the year. It may be tall and spindly because it has too much shade. Pruning two or three times a year will cause it to become bushier. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:45:12 EST Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:45:12 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Arborist Listing Esther, The following website is supposed to have an arborists listing but when I just tried I couldn't bring it up. If you do not have any luck either, call the U. of A. Extension at 602 470 8086 for a phoenix listing. http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html%3e Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:25:40 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:25:40 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Cherries Cherry trees do not produce in the Sonoran desert. Plums do, particularly Santa Rosa. On Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:21:02 -0700 (MST) kanoboy@worldnet.att.net writes: >arid_gardener >Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? >What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? >Does Prunus bear fruit? >Is Prunus available in dwarf? > >Thank you so much! >William > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:14:56 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:14:56 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Winter water In the winter, my timer is set to water once a week because that is the least often that it will set. In the summer my timer is still set to water once a week but I increase the length of time it waters. The goal is to get the roots thoroughly wet and then allow those roots to dry between watering so fungus won't become a problem. A few plants have the noozle turned off or way down so they don't get much water in the winter............. bougainvillea and oleander are quite dormant in the winter. Most of the native plants don't need water in winter. It has been very dry this winter and so I've watered almost every plant in my front yard that is not on the irrigation system on this past weekend. The reason I did this is that the ribs on my saguaro are very deep and narrow, indicating low water storage and most of the leaves have fallen off my sage. These plants will be looking much better in a couple of weeks and won't be watered again for at least a month even if we don't get rain. On Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:01:50 -0700 (MST) ybear551@cs.com writes: >arid_gardener >1. for chilean mesquite one year old, and with a drip system, what is >considered enough water, how many times a week. >2. should they be trimed this time of year. >3. same question for Oleander and bouginvia. > >At present time they are watered one hour a day every 4 days. > >If trimming is reccommended how much. > >name of a good book that covers these items for someone without a >green thumb. > >Thanks and keep up the great work. > >Look forward to your answer. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jfaser@mailcity.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 23:56:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 23:56:56 -0700 (MST) From: jfaser@mailcity.com jfaser@mailcity.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I moved to the Valley from the Midwest last year and would like to have my garden soil tested to see if it's suitable for growing vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.). Do you offer soil testing? From rondolpie@aol.com Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:15:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:15:34 -0700 (MST) From: rondolpie@aol.com rondolpie@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When do you fertilize citrus trees? Also how much fertilizer should you use and what type of fertilizer. From zbinternational@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 09:09:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 09:09:26 -0700 (MST) From: zbinternational@hotmail.com zbinternational@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently purchased an arizona black walnnut tree. I am wondering how well it grows in Phoenix, what I need to do to enhance its survival and how big the tree will grow in this climate. Where I live there are many pecan trees that do quite well but no walnut trees. The pecan trees grow moderately fast ,35 feet in 15 years, and I am wondering if walnut trees would grow as fast. Also, I would like to know if walnut is self pollinating or do I need to plant two trees? Thank you. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 11:58:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 11:58:22 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Reference Works for Landscaping in Low Desert Sandra, In addition to the previous reference, you could consider a wonderful cd-rom published by the University of Arizona (specify IBM or Macintosh). Check it out on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm This is an interactive software that lets you browse the plant encyclopedia based on your answers to a variety of questions about traits desired, exposure, etc. Linda Guy Master Gardener jsbaumann@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in > Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 > booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, > perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. > > I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your > area which provides similar information for the desert climate in > Phoenix. > > I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening > but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. > Could you make a recommendation in this regard? > > Many thanks. Sandra Baumann > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:18:57 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:18:57 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cherry and Plum Varieties for Arizona Hi William, Prunus is the first part of a plant's scientific name, whereas Rosaceae is the broader family within which the plant is grouped. Prunus can refer to any stone fruit tree (almond, apricot, cherry, peach, plum, prune, etc.) or classes of ornamental trees (laurels, flowering cherries or plums,etc.). You will need more than just the term prunus to select plant material for your yard. You might want to check out our Master Gardener Manual section on fruit tree varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties If you want fruiting trees and are only planting one specimen, make sure to select a tree that has self-pollination capabilities. Another good reference work is the Sunset Garden Book, page 439 for ornamentals, or look under the common name (plum, cherry, etc.) for information on fruiting trees. Many of these trees have dwarf varieties, but its hard to recommend until we know more specifically what you are seeking. Linda Guy Master Gardener kanoboy@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? > What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? > Does Prunus bear fruit? > Is Prunus available in dwarf? > > Thank you so much! > William > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:29:54 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:29:54 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus Our publication 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona has a good discussion of citrus needs for nitrogen and other nutrients Most often people will purchase readily available fertilizers specifically designed for citrus. Amount depends on the age of the trees; 5 years and older generally get 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen (calculated by multiplying the percentage of nitrogen times the weight of the fertilizer purchased) per year. One half is applied late winter (February) and the rest in 3 to 6 applications through June. Many citrus fertilizers will explain application on the package. You can check out this publication and others on citrus in your public library's reference section (Home Horticulture Publications from the Cooperative Extension) or you can send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener rondolpie@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > When do you fertilize citrus trees? Also how much fertilizer should you use and what type of fertilizer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:33:11 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:33:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Soil Testing Services This information is provided in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener jfaser@mailcity.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I moved to the Valley from the Midwest last year and would like to have my garden soil tested to see if it's suitable for growing vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.). Do you offer soil testing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:39:33 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:39:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] frost protection The need for frost protection depends on plants' susceptibility and location in the landscape. I would not cover vegetables that are normally cold weather crops (broccoli, cabbage, etc.) or other adapted plants. Plants that are on a northern exposure and may get no sun during winter months and are frost tender will need coverings. Similar plants against a south wall which get ample sun and ambient heat post-sunset may never have the need until freezing temps are actually reached. Check out our frost protection publication online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf It will help you analyze any number of situations you may be facing. Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > this time of year i cover my plants every night. do i really need to if i > know the temp is not going to get below 40 degrees? does it actually need > to freeze (32 degrees) for damage to occur or does it just need to be > cold? would really appreciate your help. r2beshon@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:46:33 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:46:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bud Rot in Queen Palms I only know the condition as bud rot...and queen palms certainly are susceptible. Rather than repeat what is already available online, check out our excellent publication on palms, including disease diagnosis and treatment at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf If you think you have it, time is of the essence in treatment. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener tyjas@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > With the so many problems with queen palms, how do you diagnose pink bud rot? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:59:12 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:59:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Compost Bins Many of the municipal solid waste management departments distribute for free or a nominal fee reconditioned trash bins that have the bottoms removed and holes punched in the sides of the containers for air circulation. It's been so long since I got mine that I can only assume it was the city of Phoenix, which is where I live. They may be agreeable to sell it to a Tempe resident for a fee. Chandler also did this; the old PN was 786-2863. SRP's Environmental Services area (236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one: they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting efforts, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener jaresteg@nccj.org wrote: > arid_gardener > Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dmkerr@dancris.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:26:50 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:26:50 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Compost Bins I got my composter three months ago, and it's the best $5.00 I ever spent. It is a great way to deal with our infertile soil. I went to the Skunk Creek landfill, which is the largest in Phoenix. You stop at the weigh station and ask for a composter and pay for it there. I made a seive out of lath and 2 x 4s with one end elevated by boards and have produced many bushels of stuff. We'll see how my garden does this year. We save our vegetable waste from the kitchen and chop up stuff from the yard, like bird of paradise and rose prunings with the lawnmower. Oh, they sell to anyone, don't even ask where you live. ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 12:59 PM Subject: [AG] Compost Bins > arid_gardener > Many of the municipal solid waste management departments distribute for free or a nominal fee > reconditioned trash bins that have the bottoms removed and holes punched in the sides of the > containers for air circulation. It's been so long since I got mine that I can only assume it > was the city of Phoenix, which is where I live. They may be agreeable to sell it to a Tempe > resident for a fee. Chandler also did this; the old PN was 786-2863. > > SRP's Environmental Services area (236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that > talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one: > they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting > efforts, too. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > jaresteg@nccj.org wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From Antiquefreek@aol.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:27:37 EST Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:27:37 EST From: Antiquefreek@aol.com Antiquefreek@aol.com Subject: [AG] Request for tree service. I just used Capital Tree Service in Phoenix he did good work and was 40% less than another estimate I received. He is a certified arborist. His card had a web site too: WWW.capitaltree.com From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 04:54:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 04:54:02 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: veggie seedlings One of my friends at my community garden taught me to put carrot seeds 1 1/2 inch apart on a wet paper towel spread on a black garbage bag. Then roll it up and place on top of the refrigerator. Check daily, after the first week, and when sprouted, carefully unroll it on prepared soil, then cover with "Super Soil" (an enriched steam sterilized product), vermiculite or sand. It beats thinning since this can be done while sitting in a comfortable chair watching a movie. Of course you leave the paper towel but not the plastic bag. Desert soils need nitrogen. I use ammonium phosphate when I prepare each bed: a couple of 1 pound coffee cans per 4 by 20 bed. This needs to be placed near plant roots but never touching roots of transplants. In cool weather this fertilizer won't be available to the plants as quick as ammonium nitrate...... so you might want to use ammonium nitrate or "Miracle Grow" type fertilizer to feed your seedlings and help them along, especially if your soil has not been gardened in before. Be careful since young plants are easily burned. Rabbits, mice, birds & bugs love sprouts so you'll need to protect them................. I've never had to do that before moving to the desert and it has been a major surprise but really is not as much trouble as the constant weeding in Ohio was. On Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:07:33 -0700 (MST) mommyof3@home.net writes: >arid_gardener >1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte >came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase >why? They stayed like this for months. > >2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jjewett@bigplanet.com Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:07:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:07:06 -0700 (MST) From: jjewett@bigplanet.com jjewett@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you send me some links, or information about composting. I have an idea how the process works, but not the details. I love to garden, and am frustrated by the soil around my house. Any ideas on how I can improve the situation? From cartia@sedona.net Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:31:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:31:35 -0700 (MST) From: cartia@sedona.net cartia@sedona.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for some advise on raspberries. My grandfather has a large bed of plants in Prescott and has never gotton a single berry. He bought the plants from a local nusery and has consulted them several times to no avail. They get plenty of water, fertilizer and sun. The plants are very healthy and he gets an abundance of blooms. The berries seem to start to develop, but then appear to dry out. The rest of the stalk continues to look great. He is so frustrated. Any ideas? We have our own plants in the Verde Valley and get lots of berries with little effort. From rgell45226@aol.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:12:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:12:51 -0700 (MST) From: rgell45226@aol.com rgell45226@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If bougainvilla have been subject to cold weather and the majority of the leaves have fallen off, should I trim the dead leafless branches or let it go until it grows back? From ronolive@usa.net Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:29:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:29:26 -0700 (MST) From: ronolive@usa.net ronolive@usa.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lime tree that was not taken care of for years until we bought the house. I have taken care of it since then and it bore limes for the first time this year. A month ago they all turned yellow and fell off the tree with little to no green color. Now there is a new small crop on the tree. I am afraid they will turn yellow and prematurely fall off again. I was watering every 7 days. Now I am watering every 14 days for thirty minutes. It takes about 4 hours for the water to fully absorb into the ground from the birm around the tree. What am I doing wrong? From donleslieh@home.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:11:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:11:36 -0700 (MST) From: donleslieh@home.com donleslieh@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hibiscus leaves are small and turning yellow, no blooms, look very week. planted in Aug.99. Is this normal/should I fertilize? From papagiorgio@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:53:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:53:26 -0700 (MST) From: papagiorgio@uswest.net papagiorgio@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there any way to stop a carob tree from getting pods? From tsozuna@goodnet.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 14:26:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 14:26:26 -0700 (MST) From: tsozuna@goodnet.com tsozuna@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The African Sumacs in our development are blossoming now (there is yellow pollen every- where). I am wondering if there is anything that we can spray on them to stop them from blooming (like they do for olive trees). My allergies are terrible during this time and I am unable to be outside for any extended time. Thank you! From devaleria@earthlink.net Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:27:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:27:09 -0700 (MST) From: devaleria@earthlink.net devaleria@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 14 rosebushes at my new home. I know very little about growing roses and am currently in learning mode. Their is a bush on the east side of my house with medium sized dark red roses. They are abundant but have dark spots on the edges of the petals; and what looks like a withering (even on the buds). The bushes next to it are fine. Does anyone know what the problem is and what can be done about it? From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:53:12 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:53:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvilla For any frost sensitive plant, including your bougainvilla, we recommend waiting until all risk of frost damage has passed (for Phoenix metro it's mid-March on average). Then you can generally tell what is truly dead wood from that which is beginning to sprout. Linda Guy Master Gardener rgell45226@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > If bougainvilla have been subject to cold weather and the majority of the leaves have fallen off, should I trim the dead leafless branches or let it go until it grows back? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:09:48 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:09:48 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Garden Location/Exposure I'll try to give you some general guidance, which is the best I can do not knowing what you are trying to plant. Most vegetable/annual/herb patches need close to 8 hours of sunlight. In the summer, its best to try to get that sunlight starting in the earliest hours when the heat is not so overwhelming. If you want to garden year round, that would mean the areas with a southern exposure would have the best shot. The east side of a house would do well in the summer, particularly for those plants that need afternoon shade. But don't expect super production in the winter time if the area only gets 4 hours of morning sun. The west could fair well in the winter, but be broiled in the summer time, if not provided even some filtered shade. My beds are in the south yard. In the summer, I try to create shade for things like my peppers and tomato plants by planting my corn stalks in the same bed but to the west of these plants. I hope you get the idea. Good luck with your new gardens. And thanks for the kind words about our book! Linda Guy Master Gardener cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Finally, a book about DESERT gardening. Thank you thank you thank you! After reading your book, I still though am unsure what location you would most recommend we start our garden. We live in PHX and I'm unsure which exposure is the best. Could you please help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:25:30 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:25:30 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Dying Citrus Your best recourse would be to return to the nursery that supplied and/or planted your tree. Have you made inquiries? Complete leaf loss seems a bit extreme. However, I would not have planted in the middle of the summer, and it may be that the tree was unable to withstand transplant at that time. Also, you could have purchased a tree (I assume that you bought a 24" box) that had girdled roots and the tree has finally succumbed to be strangled to death, so to speak. If the tree dies and you can preserve the root ball to prove the presence of girdling to the nursery, I think you should ask for a replacement tree or your money back. Fertilizing commences late winter (1/2 annual requirement) with the rest being applied 3 to 6 times through June. Fertilizer designed to meet the specialized needs of citrus is readily available in all nurseries. Your irrigation schedule is not correct, however. Deeply watering every 14 days or so is a much better practice. We have several publications on citrus that would be of interest. Consult the listing at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus They can be perused in any public library's reference section or can be ordered at $1 per publication. Instructions for ordering are on the same page referenced above. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I PURCHASED A ARIZONA ORANGE TREE IN JULY OF 1999,HAD IT PLANTED PROFESSONALLY,IT WAS A 24 GALLON SIZE.CURRENTLY ALL THE LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF.IT BLOSSEMED FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.NOW I SEE THAT I'M GETTING SMALL LIMBS > GO DEAD. I WATER THE TREE IN THE SUMMER TWICE A WEEK FOR 1 HOUR AT A TIME,NOW I'M WATERING TWICE A WEEK BUT FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES AT A TIME.I HAVE NOT FERTILIZED AT ALL.I WAS GOING TO DO THAT IN FEBR.& MARCH. IS MY TREE DYING OR IS THIS NORMAL.MY GRAPEFRUIT TREE HAS ALL OF ITS LEAVES TURNING YELLOW. I ALSO HAVE NOTICED ON THE ORANGE TREE THE LEAVES LOOK LIKE SOMETHING COULD HAVE BEEN EATING AWAY ON THEM. PLEASE HELP ME,WE JUST MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN AND CARING FOR TREE THERE ARE DIFFERENT THEN HERE. I ALSO CUT OFF ALL OT THE DEAD BRANCHES ON THE ORANGE TREE. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 05:19:04 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 05:19:04 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Black Walnuts An Ohio Black Walnut is self polinating. I spent 10 years singing in a swing hung from one that had nuts every year and not another tree anywhere within my knowledge. They are very difficult to crack and permanent dye could be made from their husks.......... On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 09:09:26 -0700 (MST) zbinternational@hotmail.com writes: >arid_gardener >I recently purchased an arizona black walnnut tree. I am wondering how >well it grows in Phoenix, what I need to do to enhance its survival >and how big the tree will grow in this climate. Where I live there are >many pecan trees that do quite well but no walnut trees. The pecan >trees grow moderately fast ,35 feet in 15 years, and I am wondering if >walnut trees would grow as fast. Also, I would like to know if walnut >is self pollinating or do I need to plant two trees? Thank you. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 06:01:22 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 06:01:22 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvilla Wait till at least the middle of February to prune since those dead leaves and branches provide some frost protection and the new growth that pruning stimulates will be very frost sensitive. On Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:12:51 -0700 (MST) rgell45226@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >If bougainvilla have been subject to cold weather and the majority of >the leaves have fallen off, should I trim the dead leafless branches >or let it go until it grows back? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jflivingston@home.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:03:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:03:00 -0700 (MST) From: jflivingston@home.com jflivingston@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One Blue Palo Verde in my front yard - drip irrigated - 6 gph, 1 x every two weeks for 2 hours, over the course of only 1 week's time had the 'bark' on several of its branches go from a very nice smooth, green color to a dark, purplish/blackish/grayish color. On branches adjacent to those which have turned this awful color the bark remains green. Below the fork in the branch, the bark is also sometimes green and sometimes the discolored, dark bark I've described. We live in the Cabrillo Canyon section of The Foothills, Phoenix and it has been oddly warm this year. Warm to the point of leafing out a bit and actually getting a few flowers. The leaves and flowers on the discolored limbs have wilted and appear to be dried up. There is nothing similar happening with a slightly younger tree adjacent to this one. The one with the problem was 36" box just two years ago and was doing perfectly before this started. I'm really paranoid that I'm losing this tree rapidly! What is it? Who can I contact? From Sitting4@aol.com Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:41:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 16:41:24 -0700 (MST) From: Sitting4@aol.com Sitting4@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Homeowners Association is planning a MAJOR pruning of the oleanders. This means the plants will be cut down to just 5-7 inch stems. They say this will insure blooms for the summer. I would like to know if this is a good thing, and when is the best time to prune oleanders? Also, They did this last year at the end of April and I was very upset. I plan to be outside the day this happens to tell them NOT to cut the plants. From jerrymarkell@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:28:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:28:30 -0700 (MST) From: jerrymarkell@uswest.net jerrymarkell@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Am starting a hummingbird garden in Mesa would like a list of plants for a drip irrigated area to attract hummingbirds for our enjoyment From starhall@gateway.net Thu, 27 Jan 2000 06:43:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 06:43:19 -0700 (MST) From: starhall@gateway.net starhall@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My favorite citrus tree is a Mandarin Orange that's doing great here in Phoenix...when I lived in Europe, there was a variety called a Clementine, which was similar but without seeds. Is this variety available in the U.S., and if so, where could I get one? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:27:44 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:27:44 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Try the Algerian Tangerine. The fruit is a little larger than Mediterranean Clementines, as I recall (it's been nearly 40 years). The Algerian is available locally and produces well in Phoenix. Planting next to another Mandarin for pollination, it will yield heavily each year but will also have a few seeds.. Ours is 17 years old, slightly over 10 feet tall, planted next to a Minneola Tangelo - great producer. Bears from mid December until the end of January when the overripe fruit begins to drop from the tree. Some California and Florida nurseries carry the "original" Fina Clementine plus a number of other varieties and crosses. But it may not be possible to bring them into AZ - best to check with the AZ Dept. of Ag. before buying out of state. ----- Original Message ----- Thursday, January 27, 2000 6:43 AM> My favorite citrus tree is a Mandarin Orange > that's doing great here in Phoenix...when I > lived in Europe, there was a variety called > a Clementine, which was similar but without > seeds. Is this variety available in the U.S., > and if so, where could I get one? Thanks. From sprchal@hotmail.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:09:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 10:09:49 -0700 (MST) From: sprchal@hotmail.com sprchal@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hi! i was wondering if you knew how atrazine effects photosynthesis? if not, do you know any site which could help me with this bilogy question? thank you, sarah prchal From www.ontsask@aol.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:21:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 11:21:55 -0700 (MST) From: www.ontsask@aol.com www.ontsask@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Sun Lakes, how would pineapple guavas do in full sun here? They would be near the east wall so they would get the west sun. Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:09:39 EST Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 16:09:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rose Care It is not uncommon to see back spots or edges on the petals of dark colored roses in the winter. It should not be a problem once the roses start their spring growth. If you have not pruned your roses yet it is time to do so now. Wednesday's Arizona Republic has a terrific multiple page article on rose care by my friend Mary Lou Coffman. If you live in the East Valley, the Mesa East Valley Rose Society will be pruning roses at the Mesa Community College Rose Garden this Saturday from 8 to 12. Qualified rosarians will be unhand to answer your questions. Come and bring your pruners. Good luck. Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From ClaireASP@aol.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:38:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 17:38:31 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have just recently had an old,plain block wall fence stuccoed and painted. Unfortunately this is an area where I plant flowers along it, in the Spring and the Fall.I didn't plant any flowers this past Fall, because I knew that we were going to do this project. But I would like to plant flowers again this Spring. I always amend my soil with OMNI, Bone Meal,and gypsum before planting my flowers. What I would like to know; Should I do anything else to the soil, since it has been exposed to all the cement and paint chemicals. Naturally, alot of that stuff gets watered into the soil.I hope that you have a suggestion.Thanks! h From eye6624@aol.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:38:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 15:38:31 -0700 (MST) From: eye6624@aol.com eye6624@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are soon getting soft water installed and will be using potasium and not salt as the exchange ion. This house does not have a soft water loop, so If the plants are watered outside with soft water as described will it harm them, help them, or what? It will be expensive to route a hard water line so I need to know. Thank you!! From LJMBCC@cs.com Thu, 27 Jan 2000 20:03:39 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2000 20:03:39 -0700 (MST) From: LJMBCC@cs.com LJMBCC@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Black Canyon City (altitude 2000ft). I have a long, west-facing, unshaded, 45-degree slope that's covered with boulders for erosion control purposes. Before placing the rocks, I ran raindrip lines and left gaps in the rocks for plants. I checked with a local nursery and they were a bit stumped on what would survive in that environment. I'm looking for perrenials that would provide some color variety, wouldn't spread on their own (not seed propagated), would survive the heat and not freeze (our temps are about on par with the coldest valley areas...but we often have breezes to prevent freezes). Any ideas? Thanks much!, Larry From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 28 Jan 2000 09:52:09 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 09:52:09 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Might I suggest that you try a number of excellent native perennials, like globemallow, brittlebush, turpentine bush, the not quite so native damianita, almost any of the daleas, the outstanding desert petunia (Ruellia). Mary LJMBCC@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Black Canyon City (altitude 2000ft). I have a long, west-facing, unshaded, 45-degree slope that's covered with boulders for erosion control purposes. Before placing the rocks, I ran raindrip lines and left gaps in the rocks for plants. > > I checked with a local nursery and they were a bit stumped on what would survive in that environment. I'm looking for perrenials that would provide some color variety, wouldn't spread on their own (not seed propagated), would survive the heat and not freeze (our temps are about on par with the coldest valley areas...but we often have breezes to prevent freezes). Any ideas? > > Thanks much!, > Larry > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 28 Jan 2000 22:37:07 EST Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 22:37:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palo verde dying J.F., I suspect that your palo verde tree is dying from lack of water. If I understand you correctly, you are watering your tree with 12 gallons of water every two weeks. Uof A Extension Fact Sheet MC-53 states that the Blue Palo Verde in the summer requires from 11.3 to 25.1 gallons of water per day. Using 1/3 of those numbers for winter time irrigation and taking the lower of the two numbers we have 11.3 X 14 days divided by 3 = 52.6 gallons of water required. Deep water that tree right away and you may be able to save it Once the Palo Verde becomes established it can exist on very little water, however it must have adequate water in becoming established to have deep roots. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: Good luck. Rod http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From dgkazmer@juno.com Fri, 28 Jan 2000 07:32:22 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2000 07:32:22 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Hummingbird Gardens Hummingbirds need to eat and drink every day all year long. As you chose plants keep thinking about that! Winter bloomers: acacia, aloe...... Summer bloomers: desert willow, red fairy duster Spring bloomers: cactus, citrus, red fairy duster, Fall bloomers: ................ Sally Wasowski has a hummingbird garden in her book: Native Gardens for Dry Climates. It will be available at most libraries in the southwest area. I also like Judith Phillips books and Judy Mielke's book. Keep in mind that there are vast differences between 12 and 7 inches of rain and the various temperatures of the different areas. On Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:28:30 -0700 (MST) jerrymarkell@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >Am starting a hummingbird garden in Mesa would >like a list of plants for a drip irrigated >area to attract hummingbirds for our enjoyment > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 11:56:01 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 11:56:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fading bay leaf bush Bay leaves actually grow on a tree (Laurus nobilis), are evergreen and can grow from 12 to 40 feet (one reference actually said 65 feet), although my personal experience in the low desert is closer to the low end of the range. They are often in a container in order to 'contain' the growth, (it's a classic topiary plant) and have indeed been pruned into shrub form, which is how I maintain the bay tree in my garden. It is a mediterranean plant that is accustomed to dry, hot summers and cooler winters. Again, my experience is that it likes a bit of afternoon shade in the summer, but I've seen specimens that have done without. Since you do not mention your specific water practices, let me say that it is tolerant of low water, but prefers a bit of supplement in the summer. At this time (winter), I believe a single deep monthly to bimonthly irrigation would be sufficient for its purposes. It's spots up if subjected to lawn sprinklers (again personal experience). Like most mediterranean plants, soil can border on being poor, but it MUST have good drainage. Perhaps frequency and drainage are your issues. Also, they can suffer from a black scale. At over 16 years, perhaps it has reached its life span. If it succumbs, know that it is easily replaced from the inventories of most Valley nurseries. I don't know what to say about identification. Leaves are aromatic, as you've noted, leathery, and any where from 1.5 to 4 inches long. It has inconsequential yellow flowers, followed by dark berries. The plant tends to sucker heavily. Hope this has been some help. Linda Guy Master Gardener "N. Savage" wrote: > My bay leaf bush appears to be dying. It was here in the yard before we > bought this house 16 years ago. It was fine until recently. I don't know if > it too little or too much water while we were trying to balance another > area of the garden. Or If it is just old. My husband is quite fond of the > bush. Can we save it ? L. Savage > PS We don't know for sure if it is a bay leaf. It looks and smells like bay. From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:27:36 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:27:36 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Vegetable Varieties for Low Desert First, let me say that if you have a VERY small garden (and you seemed to focus on this) you will need to be creative with plants such as zucchini and other squashes, melons, potatoes, even tomatos if they are indeterminate. These plants are usually huge. I suggest trellising, as well as investigating square foot gardening to maximize your garden's potential. Also, I couldn't tell from your note if you are familiar with the growing seasons of our locale. We grow vegetables whose fruit or seeds are consumed (tomatoes, peppers, beans, corn, squashes, etc.) in the warm season, whereas we grow vegetables whose flowers, leaves or roots are eaten (cabbages, broccoli, lettuce, peas, radishes, carrots, etc.) in the cooler season. You can still do cool season gardening, but personally, I'm backing off in preparation of the warm season which I usually begin in March sometime. Check out our Timely Tips section of the website for information on this and other garden happening on a monthly basis at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm I'm not a very good person to ask about specific varieties as I'm constantly trying different seeds and transplants. But there are few things that I've purchased locally that have failed to thrive if I planted them in the appropriate season, with the conditions that each required. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener blum@ix.netcom.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Please recommend varities that are disiease resistant and bug reseitant in our cimate, small mostly organic garden, NW side--need beans, carrots, tomatoes (multiple varieties), squash, zucchini, peas, lettuces, cucumbers, small corn, peppers (multiple varieties) and any other basic veggies that do weel here (again, in a very small garden). > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:37:25 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:37:25 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Muhlenbergia capillaris What little I know about Muhlenbergias is that they are about 3 feet in height. My reference material only addressed M. dumosa and M. rigens. It was not in any of our turf publications, nor could I find it in any local catalogs. Have you tried any of the local sod farms? Western Sod used to have a hotline (1-800-832-TURF) but I don't know how old this is. I'm sorry we couldn't be more helpful. If you do find out more, let us know! Linda Guy Master Gardener Schimkemd@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have some questions on grasses that grow well in Phoenix. Specifically I am looking for low growing types and wondering if Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris) fits the bill or if you have other suggestions. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:51:55 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 12:51:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Larvae Identification Phil, In perusing the Master Gardener Entomology Manual, I strongly suspect that what you have found is the larvae of the Palo Verde Beetle which feed on the roots of Mexican palo verde and other trees. They spend up to 3 years underground, and can reach six inches in length. The beetles are four to six inches long, and are active in the midsummer. The manual had no suggestion for larval control, and says that little can be done to control the beetles beyond maintaining the excellent health of your trees. They will flock to trees that are stressed. I hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener godnwife@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I removed a Mesquite tree and found numerous larva in the earth around and under the tree. > Approximate size 7/8" dia by about 2" to 3" long. ivory in color and where the head was a brown color and has a pointed rear with a accordian shaped body. > I removed most of them and placed them in a 5 gal.plastic bucket with earth about 1/2 full. > What are they? > Thank for any info. > Regards Phil > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:05:20 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:05:20 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Turf Options in Phoenix Patti, Before killing and converting your turf, it would be a good idea to figure out what you have. Most of the grasses that grow particularly well here in the summer months are stoloniferous (runner producing), tolerating what can be relatively poor, alkaline soil and water. Hybrid bermudas have a finer texture and varieties like Santa Ana and Tifgreen are commonly planted (they're also not usually allergenic). St. Augustine is coarser and can tolerate some shade. These endure with neglect and can shine with good turf care practices. Sod options are available through most nurseries. Blade grasses are more apt to be seen in the winter when rye is overseeded in existing lawns. Unfortunately, you are now in a very different climate and soil condition from the midwest, and may not be able to duplicate your past experiences. If you want more assistance, you can check out our turf publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm These are usually in the reference section of the public libraries or can be ordered (instructions are at the top of the publication index) from the Extension Office. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Patti Baciewicz " wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, I want to "redo" my yard. I would like to kill the grass that is there > and lay sod. Can you tell me how to kill the grass that is there & then how > to prepare the soil for the sod? What type of sod would you suggest? I want > blades not runners. I am from the Midwest & a thick lush yard is very > important to me. If you can't help me could you direct me to someone who > can? Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:07:56 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:07:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Care You're in luck! We have many excellent Citrus publications a list of which is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm You can peruse these publications in the reference section of any public library, or order them from the Extension Office (instructions are on the same page as the listing of publications). Linda Guy Master Gardener pacarlson1@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am new to AZ. I have a lemon, grapefruit and tangelo trees approx. 9 yrs. old. I would like info on how to care, water, prune trees. I have a drip system and need to know correct amt. of water to provide. Trees look overgrown, need to know how to prune. Also fruit is splitting on lemon tree. Last yr. lemons were huge, this yr. very small, why? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:11:07 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 13:11:07 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Spots on succulent-like cacti Patricia, I don't know about your succulent's condition, but I see your question has been around for a spell. May I suggest you contact the Desert Botanical Garden's hotline that is available M-F from 10 to 11:30 am. (480-941-1225). They probably also have email contact via their website www.dbg.org Sorry we couldn't be of more assistance. Linda Guy Master Gardener Patricia Coburn wrote: > arid_gardener > I have several thick succulent-like cacti growing in pots. In the last > month, I have noticed rust colored spots, some, but not all, are like > blisters under the "skin" of the plant. I do hot have any of these on my > other cacti plants. Can someone help identify this? > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From robert_michael@msn.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 11:06:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 11:06:41 -0700 (MST) From: robert_michael@msn.com robert_michael@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been making compost with chopped pecan tree leaves. I heard somewhere that the addition of this compost to soil will inhibit the growth of plants like tomato and lettuce. Is this true? Thank You From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 15:53:10 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 15:53:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry Fungus and Pruning Practices Chris, I'm not the best plant pathologist, but I consulted our publication 8453, Diseases of Landscape Trees, and there could be several possibilities. [This is not one of the pubs that can be viewed online, but they are always available in a public library's reference section, see http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Disease ] Anyway, there are several possibilities and I highly recommend you review this information and decide your situation accordingly. If you want to order a copy of your own, the instructions are on the same page, at the top. As to the practice of tree topping, long affiliated with mulberries, simply stated, DON'T. I'm not sure how the practice started but it hasn't been recommended for some time now due to, among other things, the ensuing potential for plant starvation, shock, insect infestation and disease (perhaps your problem), weak limbs, cost and general lack of attractiveness. If you are able to save your mulberry, and it has been already been topped, allow it to grow out for a year. In ensuing years, as you prune, select several of the new canes to serve as scaffolding for a new, permanent tree canopy. Hope this is helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener CNJNAZ@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi. I live in the Scottsdale area and have a 35 year old mulberry tree that has a fungus growing from several branches. The color of the fungus is generally brown and ranges in size from baseball to softball. Any ideas on what it may be and how to get rid of it? One further note, in my neighborhood, there has been a longstanding practise of cutting the branches off the trees every winter. > Thank you for your help, > Chris > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 15:55:40 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 15:55:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Arizona Federation of Garden Clubs I don't know the answer, but I'd bet money that the Valley Garden Center (PN 602-252-2120) would know. Write us when you find out so we can update our resource lists. Linda Guy Master Gardener nikky@nwphx.quik.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm trying to contact the Az. Federation of Garden Clubs, but have been unable to find a listing. They had a booth at the Home & Garen Show earlier this month, with small loquat trees for sale. I'm interested in purchasing one & learning more about this type of citrus. Thanks!!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:00:04 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:00:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation and Pruning for Mesquite, Oleander, Bougainvilla I believe your irrigation questions were already addressed. As to pruning practices, we normally wait for the warm weather to return to prune either native plants (your mesquite) or frost tender plants (bougainvilla). Quite honestly I've pruned the oleander just about any old time, it's so hardy, but I'm sure later on in March is more technically correct! When in doubt, check out our Timely Tips section at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/feb.htm It suggests to control that urge to pull out the pruning shears for the month of February! Good luck Linda Guy Master Gardener ybear551@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > 1. for chilean mesquite one year old, and with a drip system, what is considered enough water, how many times a week. > 2. should they be trimed this time of year. > 3. same question for Oleander and bouginvia. > > At present time they are watered one hour a day every 4 days. > > If trimming is reccommended how much. > > name of a good book that covers these items for someone without a green thumb. > > Thanks and keep up the great work. > > Look forward to your answer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:02:38 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:02:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lettuce Seedlings Dear Mommy of 3 (how neat!) Have you watched the activity in your garden? Are you experiencing a lot of birds, who love those darling seedlings? Seems like you are otherwise doing well, since your germination rate is so good. How about other critters chomping at them? Linda Guy Master Gardener mommyof3@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase > why? They stayed like this for months. > > 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:20:17 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:20:17 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Land Grant University Wildflower Programs I searched through the University of Arizona's website and might suggest the following http://eebweb.arizona.edu/HERB/index.html within the Department of Plant Sciences. Perhaps they can help you. But first, I would suggest your own land grant university and it's cooperative extension office. Let us know if there is sucjh a program so we can keep it in mind for others working with wildflowers. Linda Guy Master Gardener rice1@orbitworld.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I was told by my brother, graduate student from LSU, that I could write to just about any university and ask about acquiring some samples of their wild flowers. Would you know how I can get in touch with some one here about just that. My wife and I have been all around Kentucky and you have some beautiful wild flowers. We are in the process of mulching our whole half acre back yard for just this purpose. We live south of Houston about 45 miles in a small town of Lake Jackson. I would be very pleased in getting some of your samples of any test wild flowers to plant. > > Thank you and God Bless > Ed & Diana Richardson, SR. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:28:48 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:28:48 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Fertilizer Schedule We have a good publication on the topic, 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Our publications are in all the public library reference sections for you to consult, or you can order a copy [instructions are on the same page as the listing]. Fertilizing needs depend on the age of the citrus tree. Mature orchards need 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen per year, with 1/2 applied about this time, and the balance applied several more times until June. There are other nutrients that citrus require (also discussed in this pub) and most citrus fertilizers take this into account. Another way to keep abreast of the calendar of gardening events is to peruse our Timely Tips column monthly at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener rondolpie@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Would like fertilizing schedule for citrus trees > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:30:58 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:30:58 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus I agree it's a beautiful plant, but I've not a lot of experience. We've had similar questions before and we have referred parties to the national group http:\\www.trop-hibiscus.com I hope they are able to give you some good advice. Linda Guy Master Gardener lsveith@swlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Gilbert. I notice a lot of nurserys have Hibiscus for sale, however, I do not see that many in landscaping. I love Hisbiscus are there specific varieties, conditions and fertilizers necessary for them in the Gilbert area. > Thanks for your response. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:38:43 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:38:43 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Growing Raspberries Raspberries are very, very difficult to grow here in Phoenix, so I have little advice for you. We have some success with a few varieties of blackberries. Is there any one in your county's Cooerative Extension Office who could help you? Linda Guy Master Gardener cartia@sedona.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am looking for some advise on raspberries. My grandfather has a large bed of plants in Prescott and has never gotton a single berry. He bought the plants from a local nusery and has consulted them several times to no avail. They get plenty of water, fertilizer and sun. The plants are very healthy and he gets an abundance of blooms. The berries seem to start to develop, but then appear to dry out. The rest of the stalk continues to look great. He is so frustrated. Any ideas? We have our own plants in the Verde Valley and get lots of berries with little effort. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:53:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:53:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] African Sumac Blossoms I don't believe that the chemical sprays are meant to stop the blossoms; usually this is to prevent the blossoms from turning into fruit. Not a bad idea since I know INTIMATELY well that the fruit of the African Sumac are like candy for pigeons! I removed both trees from my yard for this very reason. As you noted, this is a highly allergenic tree; but again, the spray will not stop the blossom process. Only removal of the trees will abet this problem. We have recommended sprays with NAA (napthaleneacetic acid) which is used for olives and mulberries for other fruiting ornamental trees with some success. I don't know if it will work on African Sumacs. If your homeowners' association tries it with success (need to move soon of course) please let us know so that we can share the information with others! Linda Guy Master Gardener tsozuna@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > The African Sumacs in our development are > blossoming now (there is yellow pollen every- > where). I am wondering if there is anything > that we can spray on them to stop them from > blooming (like they do for olive trees). My > allergies are terrible during this time and > I am unable to be outside for any extended > time. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:59:38 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 16:59:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] African Sumac Blossoms Permit me to correct myself! I just read our publication Q375, Chemical Removal of Flowers on Olive and Mulberry. Indeed you were correct in your assertion that the referenced chemical actually impacted the blossom themselves and ensuing pollen. I apologize for the misinformation I just relayed! Linda Guy I don't believe that the chemical sprays are meant to stop the blossoms; usually this is to prevent the blossoms from turning into fruit. Not a bad idea since I know INTIMATELY well that the fruit of the African Sumac are like candy for pigeons! I removed both trees from my yard for this very reason. As you noted, this is a highly allergenic tree; but again, the spray will not stop the blossom process. Only removal of the trees will abet this problem. We have recommended sprays with NAA (napthaleneacetic acid) which is used for olives and mulberries for other fruiting ornamental trees with some success. I don't know if it will work on African Sumacs. If your homeowners' association tries it with success (need to move soon of course) please let us know so that we can share the information with others! Linda Guy Master Gardener tsozuna@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > The African Sumacs in our development are > blossoming now (there is yellow pollen every- > where). I am wondering if there is anything > that we can spray on them to stop them from > blooming (like they do for olive trees). My > allergies are terrible during this time and > I am unable to be outside for any extended > time. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From gordieFS@aol.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 14:50:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 14:50:34 -0700 (MST) From: gordieFS@aol.com gordieFS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My 9 foot high grapefruit tree started to lose its leaves near the top of the tree during a wind storm last Wednesday. The leaves are not yellow or brown, but look healthy green. Two weeks ago I fertilized with Citrus fertilizer and the bag broke, leaving more granules than recommended. I watered quite heavily thinking that would dilute the fertilizer. Could over-fertilizing cause the loss of a lot of healthy leaves? Is there anything I can do to correct. The tree looks in bad shape. Thanks for your help!! From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat, 29 Jan 2000 07:09:42 -0700 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2000 07:09:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] West slope/ 2000 ft. elevation My first choice would be red fairy duster. It will bloom most of the year with irrigation, survive without irrigation, provide hummingbird attraction and wonderful color to draw you outside to enjoy the world. Dalea bicolor var. orcuttiana will bloom lavender fall through spring without much water (mine is 6 feet from other plants getting very little water. Dalea bicolor var. argyraea will bloom July through September purple. Dalea formosa wil bloom March to September about 2 x 2 feet. Intersperse a couple of trees like Acacia greggii and Cercidium praecox for height and a few accents like Agave and Asclepias subulata for interest. You will have a landscape attractive to many creatures, lower pollution and still have a view appropriate to the setting.... Borrow or buy Judy Mielke's "Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes". She worked for Desert Botannical Garden in Phoenix when she was writing this book and it is particularly useful to us. On Thu, 27 Jan 2000 20:03:39 -0700 (MST) LJMBCC@cs.com writes: >arid_gardener >I live in Black Canyon City (altitude 2000ft). I have a long, >west-facing, unshaded, 45-degree slope that's covered with boulders >for erosion control purposes. Before placing the rocks, I ran >raindrip lines and left gaps in the rocks for plants. > >I checked with a local nursery and they were a bit stumped on what >would survive in that environment. I'm looking for perrenials that >would provide some color variety, wouldn't spread on their own (not >seed propagated), would survive the heat and not freeze (our temps are >about on par with the coldest valley areas...but we often have breezes >to prevent freezes). Any ideas? > >Thanks much!, >Larry > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com Sun, 30 Jan 2000 07:42:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2000 07:42:16 -0700 (MST) From: mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com mary_ann_zimmerman@es.adp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for some referrals for people who provide landschape design services. My family and I want to do most of the landscape work ourselves in our backyard. The yard is small and we recently put in a pool but need someone to lay out the design plan for us. Most commerical landscapers are not interested in just providing the design service. Thank you for your assistance. From antiquefreek@aol.com Sun Jan 2 07:41:09 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) From: antiquefreek@aol.com antiquefreek@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat bermuda). From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 2 12:31:46 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 05:31:46 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] barriers / weeds You might want to use a vertical barrier at the edge of your lawn to keep the rhizomes from traveling. Mostly, weeds only grow where water is applied. Black plastic is very bad for trees, etc. because the ground moisture condenses on the underside of the plastic and roots tend to develop on top of the soil.....thereby not anchoring the plant very well. Plastic keeps air, as well as water from traveling freely in the soil and tends to promote fungus in that way. It is a very hard thing to remove once you realize that you don't want it under 6 inches of gravel.......... I don't find weeds much of a problem in any of the spaces I've removed the plastic in the 6 years I've been doing it. And I didn't replace the plastic with anything..... On Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:41:09 -0700 (MST) antiquefreek@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I want to use crushed rock as a ground cover in parts of both my front >and back yard. I would like to avoid laying black plastic under the >gravel since we will walk on the gravel and I know that punches holes >in it, and it looks ugly when it shows around the edges. I have seen >a kind of weed matting at home depot type stores, that claim to allow >rain and other nutrients to reach the soil. This matting most >closesly resembles burlap, although I don't know what it is made of. >Has anyone used this kind of matting, or can they recommend an >alternative to black plastic for a gravel yard? (I have bermuda grass >and believe I will need something besides chemicals to combat >bermuda). > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jklaz@dellnet.com Sat Jan 1 21:37:52 2000 Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 14:37:52 -0700 (MST) From: jklaz@dellnet.com jklaz@dellnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you advise me on how often and how much water I should be giving the following : 1)trees-both native and non. 2)shrubs. 3) flowers. 4)grass.? Thanks. From guru@samoaone.com Sun Jan 2 15:50:25 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 08:50:25 -0700 (MST) From: guru@samoaone.com guru@samoaone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ From Renior307@aol.com Sun Jan 2 19:27:08 2000 Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 12:27:08 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley Renior307@aol.com Subject: [AG] Desert primroses I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 2 20:38:18 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:38:18 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering trees, shrubs and grass You should find your answers on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From blum@ix.netcom.com Sun Jan 2 23:06:11 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 16:06:11 -0700 (MST) From: blum@ix.netcom.com blum@ix.netcom.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please recommend varities that are disiease resistant and bug reseitant in our cimate, small mostly organic garden, NW side--need beans, carrots, tomatoes (multiple varieties), squash, zucchini, peas, lettuces, cucumbers, small corn, peppers (multiple varieties) and any other basic veggies that do weel here (again, in a very small garden). From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jan 3 18:13:06 2000 Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 11:13:06 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Urban Homeowner Tree Care clinic --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic Saturday, January 22, 2000 Sponsored by: Arizona State Land Department Arizona State University Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc FREE to the public The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic. Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance. This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance. This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise. There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged. Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis. Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd. Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1. The Arboretum at ASU ASU Visitors Information Center 826 E. Apache Blvd Tempe, AZ 85287-2512 480-965-8467 FAX: 480-965-9333 web site: http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
The Arboretum at ASU Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic
Saturday, January 22, 2000

Sponsored by:
Arizona State Land Department
Arizona State University
Arizona Community Tree Council, Inc

FREE to the public

The Arboretum at ASU, the Arizona State Land Department's Urban and Community Forestry Department, and the Arizona Community Tree Council are pleased to sponsor the second annual free Homeowners Tree Care Clinic.  Our goal is to provide information on the long-term value of trees in landscaping through proper selection, care, financial assessment, safety and maintenance.

This clinic will provide an opportunity for the homeowner to learn how to care for trees in the landscape and how to protect their investment through reasonable selection of trees, site location, and proper maintenance.

This clinic has invited a select group of speakers who are known throughout the state for their expertise.  There will also be vendors on site with tools, books and additional information.  Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day.  Self guided tours to view the wide variety of mature trees, conifers and palms in the collection are encouraged.

Due to limited space, pre-registration is required and will be accepted on a first-come, first-served basis.  Registration must be received by January 20, 2000. 

Directions: The ASU Memorial Union is located in Tempe, just north of Apache Blvd between Mill Ave & Rural Rd.  Public parking is available just south of the Memorial Union (on the north side of Apache Blvd) in Parking structure #1.

The Arboretum at ASU
ASU Visitors Information Center
826 E. Apache Blvd
Tempe, AZ 85287-2512
480-965-8467
FAX: 480-965-9333
web site:
http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12848988==_.ALT-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Jan 4 00:00:13 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:00:13 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Kerr Family - one other note. YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely = tolerant of "salt" in many different forms. In fact, bermudagrass is = often used to reclaim old salt waste lands. It should be tolerant of = anything in your pool backwash and the deep flood-type irrigation from = the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, whether actively = growing or winter dormant. Hope that all of this information and the = great Extension information sheet recommended by Linda Guy help you out. mike hills *************************** -----Original Message----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Kerr Family Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM Subject: [AG] Treatments for Chlorine & Sodium in Water Hi Kerr Family,=20 First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating = chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic = operation. The Arizona Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used = to have a commercial hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to = give you some advice. It's been about 3-4 years since I last visited = their facility on a conference tour, but they were good people and it's = an interesting place to spend an afternoon. (PN 995-1624)=20 It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note to = our list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be = interested. (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20 Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe = for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and = the publication lists categories of plant materials by susceptibility to = salt content. Bermuda grass is not listed, by I seem to recall from my = Master Gardener training that it 'eats' salt and would accept pool = water. The publication is available by mailing $1 to:=20 Home Horticulture Publications = University of Arizona Cooperative = Extension=20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20 Good luck!=20 Linda Guy=20 Master Gardener=20 Kerr Family wrote:=20 How can I get chlorine out of tap water for watering houseplants and = hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable for = plants or is the sodium concentration too high? ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kerr Family  -  one other=20 note.   YES, bermudagrass lawns are extremely tolerant of=20 "salt" in many different forms.    In fact,=20 bermudagrass is often used to reclaim old salt waste = lands.    It=20 should be tolerant of anything in your pool backwash and the deep = flood-type=20 irrigation from the backwash would be welcomed by a bermdua lawn, = whether=20 actively growing or winter dormant.   Hope that all of this=20 information and the great Extension information sheet recommended by = Linda Guy=20 help you out.
  mike hills
 
***************************
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Linda A. Guy <laguy2@primenet.com>
To:= Kerr=20 Family <dmkerr@dancris.com>
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Wednesday, December 29, 1999 7:52 AM
Subject: [AG] = Treatments for=20 Chlorine & Sodium in Water

Hi Kerr Family,=20

First off, I agree with Mike Hills' original response on evaporating=20 chlorine, and I too have used about a 24 hour time frame to do so. This = may be=20 inadequate for your needs if you have a larger hydroponic operation. The = Arizona=20 Herb & Garlic Company at Northern and I-17 used to have a commercial = hydroponic operation. Perhaps they would be able to give you some = advice. It's=20 been about 3-4 years since I last visited their facility on a conference = tour,=20 but they were good people and it's an interesting place to spend an = afternoon.=20 (PN 995-1624)=20

It would be interesting to have their input....could you post a note = to our=20 list server if you get some good info on chlorine treatment in large = quantities=20 of water? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would be interested.=20 (arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu)=20

Cooperative Extension Publication 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: = Safe=20 for Plants? discusses using water that has been softened, or outflowing = from=20 washing machines, pool backwashing, evap coolers, etc. In some = circumstances the=20 untreated pool water can be used for irrigation and the publication = lists=20 categories of plant materials by susceptibility to salt content. Bermuda = grass=20 is not listed, by I seem to recall from my Master Gardener training that = it=20 'eats' salt and would accept pool water.  The publication is = available by=20 mailing $1 to:=20

           &nbs= p;            = ;            =      =20 Home Horticulture Publications=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;           =20 University of Arizona Cooperative Extension=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;       =20 4341 E. Broadway Road=20
           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;         =20 Phoenix, AZ 85040=20

Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener=20

Kerr Family wrote:=20

How can I get chlorine out of tap = water for=20 watering houseplants and hydroponics?Is there a way to treat pool backwater to make it usable = for plants=20 or is the sodium concentration too=20 high?
------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BF560C.009DC880-- From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Jan 4 00:44:06 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 17:44:06 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Republic Gardening section Hello Gardeners of Maricopa County As many of you are aware, our MG Republic Writing Team has been working for the last 9 months with the Arizona Republic on their gardening information pages. Any of you who have seen the Republic since Jan. 1st are aware that they are greatly changing the enitre paper's format this year. These changes include the gARDENING page(s), BUT I am glad to report that our local Extension office, Terry, Lucy, Cathy Rymer and our Master Gardener Republic Writing Team will all still be involved. They will also still be pulling gardening events info from our website to report in the gardening section and other "what to do" areas of the paper. We are still fine-tuning the exact details of our relationship, but the bulk of the gardening information for their readers will still originate from our efforts with Maricopa County Extension information (YEAH!!) - in fact, the editors told us specifically that they do not want to use a lot of wire service generic gardening stuff that is not appropriate here. Rather than Saturday, this will now be in a special magazine style section of the Wednesday paper - apparently this move among many other changes is in response to many reader surveys that the Republic has done the last year to try and update and better serve their customers. This new 2000 gardening information section will be in the "Good Life" section of the "Smart Living" pullout in each Wednesday edition of the Arizona Republic. WHY AM I TELLING YOU ALL ABOUT THIS, YOU ASK??? I would request that anyone who receives the Arizona Republic on Wednesdays check out the gardening section the next few weeks and give Cathy Rymer and I any constructive criticism and feedback (positive and negative). We don't have a lot of say in how things will be done, but it is all still in the development stage and the edoitors do value our suggestions, so your input to us will be helpful in our next planning meeting with the editors. PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE PAPER'S MAIN FOCUS IN THIS GARDENING SECTION WILL BE FOR THE NEW GARDENER IN THE AREA, SO DO NOT EXPECT A LOT OF MORE ADVANCED INFORMATION. Terry is going to keep covering some of that in his part of the section, but our Master Gardener writers will be covering basic topics and a lot of "how-to" information - especially based on the types of seasonal and repeat questions that flood our MG hotline each year. Anyhow's, just wanted to request your thoughts and input. Thank you again to the many of you that have been so helpful and supportive of our efforts this last year. We are really looking forward to more fun with this project in 2000. Mike Hills Volunteer Master Gardener, Maricopa County Director, Educational Materials Chair, Master Gardener Republic Writing Team email mhills_sro@msn.com From mhills_sro@email.msn.com Tue Jan 4 01:47:54 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 18:47:54 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] bermuda removal, winter Tilling will actually bury a lot of the rhizomes and you may have a continuing problem with bermuda recurring as a weed. Actually digging out the bermuda and removing it may work better than just tilling it under. The best results are to wait until it is actively growing and use a Round-up type spray chemical a couple of times. However, bermuda seed and hay growers in the Arizona and California do a fairly good job of getting rid of old bermuda fields when they are rotating to a new crop, such as lettuce or melons. AND, often they do this in the winter. In general, they take advantage of the freezing tempoeratures during mid-winter to help them kill the bermuda stolons (surface "runners") and rhizomes (underground stems). Deep tilling the bermuda sod up and leaving as much of it rough and exposed as possible is the best. Some very cold freeze nights as we are getting now and on into February will really help to freeze the exposed bermuda growing points. As much as possible, DO NOT water the bermuda once you start exposing it to the cold. Dry conditions are better to help the cold air kill the bermuda. (this is contrary to the advice when you are using chemicals to kill it in summer - then it needs to be watered to keep it actively growing and taking up the chemical). Every week or two or three during this cold period, till the area again and each time, leave it roughed up with as much root surface exposed to the air as possible. Sometime after the last killing frost, you shuld be able to final till the soil, add your amendments and start planting. Of course, removal by hand of any exposed rhizomes and stems all along will also help, but I think the dry and cold will do you a lot of good. This should do a pretty good job and by March you could begin to plant. you will still need to watch for any little bermuda sprouts that pop up in April or May as temperatures warm up - pull or dig these isolated bits as soon as you see them, while they are still weak and stress AND before they have a chance to start spreading. Policing the new garden for bermuda closely the first year should work. Good Luck! mike hills Volunteer Master Gardener ****************************** -----Original Message----- From: kclizman@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thursday, December 30, 1999 5:05 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > >I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > From Pacsmith@att.net Mon Jan 3 16:01:24 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at home is not really helpful. Thanks for your assistance. From rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Jan 4 18:26:43 2000 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 11:26:43 -0700 From: Roger Huber rhuber@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule PLEASE REPLY TO: "barb" Can you please send me via e mail a watering schedule for citrus trees in Scottsdale and also watering for various schrubs and flowers during the entire year...thank you ....happy new year..... "barb" From grenner@gateway.net Tue Jan 4 23:20:23 2000 Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:20:23 -0700 (MST) From: grenner@gateway.net grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jan 5 00:33:07 2000 Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 19:33:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite The Chilean Mesquite grows so fast that you will probably have to prune it several times a year. Never prune more than 25% off the tree at one time and not more than 1/3 in a year. I've just finished an article on pruning for the Arizona Republic; it is unedited and I've not finished the drawings yet, however I'll send the text to you. Why not attend the Home and Garden Show at the Fairgrounds this weekend. I'll be doing a talk on pruning on Friday at 11:30. There will be other Master Gardeners doing talks thoughout the weekend. Hope this info is helpful. Good luck. Rod WHY DO WE PRUNE ROSES? The real reason for pruning is to cut back the size and number of canes to produce the highest quality of blooms. A rose bush will come out of dormancy with a certain amount of stored energy. If the energy is directed to a few bud eyes then the resulting stems will be longer and the blooms larger. The bush will also direct some of the energy toward producing highly prized new basal canes. If the top growth is allowed to become too thick, there will be very little, if any growth of new canes from the base of the plant. The correct balance of pruning is to keep the bush producing an adequate number of long healthy canes for an abundance of flowers every year. (These are the canes growing directly from the bud union) there by supplying new wood on an annual basis that produce the best blooms. Even bushes fifty years old can remain productive with annual pruning. A rose left unpruned will still continue to grow and bloom, though its stems will be short and the flowers small. It will produce fewer canes which would supply the best blooms for the next 3-4 years. When pruning cut out dead and diseased wood, thin out weak and crossing canes, and shape the bush. If you have two canes that grow right next to each other and they can't be spread apart, remove the older or smaller of the two, leaving the most vigorous on the bush Prune to achieve plant balance Winter pruning also provides the best opportunity for you to practice your artistic talents in shaping your bushes for better appearance and performance. The most desirable bush form is an urn or vase, where canes grow from the bud union like spokes of a wheel, outward and upward around an open center. The perfect shape is sometimes hard to achieve, but you can work toward that end by removing canes that grow straight up through the center of the bush and those that grow into the center. PRUNING: When to begin. Roses don't truly go dormant in our climate, but they do need a rest from the effects of our long hot summers. They need to rest in order to store up sugars and starches needed to produce spring growth. When you cut back roses and strip off the leaves this is the signal for the bush to start growing again. The ideal time for pruning is January or February. If you prune earlier you run the risk of frost damage. It takes approximately 70-85 days for the bush to turn around. EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Good leather gloves. (Protection for the arms is a must) Pruning shears. (bypass blades - others will crush the canes) Lopping Shears. (These are great for older woodier canes) Pruning saw. (This blade is narrow and allows you to get into smaller areas to prune) Wire brush. (Use this to remove leaves and debris from the bud union. This also encourages new basal breaks) Elmer's wood glue. (Use this to seal any cane 1/4 inch or larger). This will prevent cane borers. A container of alcohol or bleach (1 part bleach to 8 parts water) to dip shears in after cutting diseased canes. TYPES OF PRUNING: LIGHT PRUNING, removing about 1/3 of the bush. This will result in a larger bush with more blooms on shorter, smaller stems. This is good for floribunda's, shrubs and hedge roses. MODERATE PRUNING, the canes should be pruned to one-half the bush.. Leave 6 to 10 canes. This will produce a larger bush and ample blooms. This method is best for the average garden. HEAVY PRUNING, will leave 3 or 4 canes. The canes will produce a few large long stemmed blooms of show quality. HYBRID TEAS Prune in January or February. Usually after all danger of frost. Cut 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud eye. Cut at a 45 degree angle, sloping down. This will allow excess sap to run down the opposite side of the cut. Prune any canes growing into the center of the bush or crossing other canes. Prune out any deadwood. Remove any twiggy growth. When older canes fail to produce good blooms, remove them by cutting them back to the crown. If old canes are left on the bush too long, it may be difficult to get new replacement canes to start at the base of the bush, so the plant becomes leggy and unattractive. Remove any suckers. Suckers coming from below the bud union should be removed at any time during the season as they are noticed. The sucker growth canes are tall, slender, light green in color and the leaves are smaller than those of the budded variety. Remove any stems or canes that grow crosswise through the bush. This will open up the center of the bush and let the sunshine and air circulate. This also helps prevent diseases such as mildew. It also reduces damage to the canes caused by canes rubbing against each other. Leave 4 to 8 good healthy canes. Remove 1/3 to ½ of the bush. Remove all foliage. FLORIBUNDA Floribundas are pruned differently from hybrid teas. The bushes are more compact and usually are grown for the mass effect of the flowers. The canes are smaller and will have more twiggy growth. Leave 8 to 12 healthy canes, cut out all crossing canes and any dead or diseased wood. Prune about 1/3 of the bush. Cut to an outward facing bud eye. GRANDIFLORAS Grandifloras are pruned like the hybrid teas. MINIATURES Miniatures should be pruned like the other roses. Cut back 1/3 to ½ of the bush. SHRUBS Prune only to shape new shrubs, otherwise they should be pruned like the Floribunda. Remove crossing canes and twiggy growth, and any dead wood. Cut back about 1/3 of the bush. CLIMBERS AND RAMBLERS Climbers should be pruned to make them fit trellises, walls, or fences. These roses bloom on one or two year old wood. Climbers may be pruned during the dormant season or in the late spring , after flowering. Remove any dead or diseased wood. Remove the weakest new canes, then cut other canes back to 8 to 10 bud eyes on the laterals that bore flowers the past year. The best blooms are on laterals growing from two to three year wood. Retain 5 to 6 canes. The long canes should be trained by arching or tying them in a horizontal position. This induces every bud to produce a flowering branch. Ramblers should be pruned in the spring after the first bloom. Prune lightly in the spring to shape the bush. ALBAS , CENTIFOLIAS, GALLICAS, HYBRID PERPETUALS AND NOISETTES. Prune in the spring. Cut the wood back by about 1/4 of the bush. Cut out any dead or diseased wood. Thin out canes if needed to shape the bush. DAMASK, TEAS, CHINAS, BOURBONS, PORTLANDS Cut out any dead or diseased wood .Prune lightly. only to shape the bush. CONTAINER GROWN ROSES These roses should be pruned just like those grown in the ground. Always clean up all debris around your rose bush. Spray the canes and the soil around it with a good fungicide. Shape your rose bush as you prune it. PRUNING TIPS Remove all leaves form each bush. Clean all debris from around the bush. Seal all canes larger than the size of a pencil, this will prevent cane borers. Spray the canes and the soil around the bush with a good fungicide and insecticide. This will kill any powdery mildew spores or insects in the soil. If you are pruning a diseased bush, always spray your shears with a ten percent bleach solution or rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading of the disease. From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Jan 5 01:29:10 2000 Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 18:29:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cats in the landscape We get this question a lot and I wish I had a fool-proof solution for you, but I don't. Some past suggestions that we have given people have been to use the store bought preparations (I use Repel) but I know that you have to keep applying this regularly because the effects do wear off - especially after rain. Some people use pepper spray and pumice, which hurts cats paws so they do not like walking on it, but again, this has worked for some and not well for others. One of my colleagues has used humane, live traps and returned the cats to their owners with a polite explanation. Another suggestion that has been made in the past is surrounding the area you want to keep them out of with chicken wire, but this is not practical if they are using your entire landscape, like they do mine - well, the front yard anyway, we have a Great Dane in the back and have only had one cat venture in there and it left very quickly. One thing I have found is that you have to completely remove the soil which they have "soiled" otherwise the odor left behind attracts other visitors. Perhaps some one else will see this note and hit upon an idea that we have not yet covered here. I'll keep my eyes open too for any new suggestions. Its a tough one and a big aggravation for gardeners. Sue Bass Master Gardener Volunteer grenner@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I am having a problem with cat litter in my desert landscaping. Is there any safe way to eliminate this problem without harming the cats? I'm using a store bought product that doesn't seem to be working. If no one can answer this could you point me in the right direction? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NenaC@AOL.com Wed Jan 5 18:28:02 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:28:02 -0700 (MST) From: NenaC@AOL.com NenaC@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? From Louise_Howden@webtv.net Wed Jan 5 18:46:46 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 11:46:46 -0700 (MST) From: Louise_Howden@webtv.net Louise_Howden@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed Jan 5 14:19:47 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 07:19:47 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite The best time is coming up in January and February for pruning most trees ~ at the end of their dormant season / beginning of most growth period. However, you don't want to take so much off that your interior tree is subject to sun scald, splittling the bark and exposing wood to disease and insect attack. Those small branches growing along the trunk help it to thicken and become strong. Shorten them if necessary and eventually remove them about the time they are the diameter of your thumb. Mesquite are naturally similar to umbrellas and make wonderful shade in this hot valley. However, this shape traps wind (like an umbrella) so you may want to thin the branches to allow wind to escape without damaging your tree. Remove whole branches to do this back to the attachment and try to leave very little stub. Each limb has a sort of collar where it is attached at the base ~ leaving this collar helps the tree to heal the wound. When you shorten a long horizontal limb, look for an outward facing leaf or minor branch attachment, or one going in the direction you favor for the branch because that is the point of the next growth for that branch. Don't remove more than 1/3 of the tree in any one year. Pruning often stimulates growth and sometimes can lead to surprising shapes. Think carefully about the size and shape you are wishing to promote. Good thoughts, not luck! On Mon, 3 Jan 2000 09:01:24 -0700 (MST) Pacsmith@att.net writes: >arid_gardener >One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. >Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the >top and >outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at >trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim >it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? >What is a good >resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our >book at >home is not really helpful. > >Thanks for your assistance. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 15:29:18 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:29:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Gardening I see your question has been around a while, so I referred it to a colleague whose specialty this is, hoping she'll have some time to respond soon. In the meantime permit me to make two suggestions. First, this weekend's Mrixopa County Home and Garden Show which starts tomorrow, has a container gardening program at 4:30 pm on Friday, 1/7. We (Master Gardeners) are doing the clinic, and I wouldn't be surprised if the colleague to whom I referred your original question is the person presenting! Next, The Arizona Herb Association's February meeting will deal with the topic of Container Gardening. Check out the group's calendar of events at: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/Calendar_Of_Events.html Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gjblackham@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to get information on container gardening; flowers and greenery, not vegtables. I would like what will grow well during the summer and winter in full sun and shade. I am having a difficult time getting this information. Thank you Sharon Blackham > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 15:36:56 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:36:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Pygmy Palms As a rule, palms look considerably better with appropriate fertilization, including some micronutrients. This is typically done in mid spring and again in early summer. We have an excellent discussion of fertilizer in our Arizona Landscape Palms publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Specialty palm fertilizers are easily purchased here in the valley. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener dgilbert@amug.org wrote: > arid_gardener > Wanted to find out what type fertilizer or plant food I need for Pgymy Date palms and fan palms. Also do cactus need any type of fertilizer or food outside in my yard. They were just planted two months ago. Thanks for any help you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 15:44:06 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and used the more traditional technique of systemic herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend battling the bermuda over the years may not be worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth season in the summer) truly is a virtue! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener kclizman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I want to get rid of my bermuda grass lawn and replace it with a butterfly garden. Any suggestions on how I can do that now and not have to wait till the bermuda grass starts growing again. > > I am considering trying to scalp it with the lawn mower and then till the top 6-8 inches of soil and rake out the rhizomes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 15:59:19 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:59:19 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Chilean Mesquite In addition to the Maricopa County Home and Garden Show, the Arboretum at ASU is also sponsoring an Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic, free to the public (must preregister however) on Saturday 1/22. Check it out at http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Pacsmith@att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > One year ago we planted a 15-gallon chilean mesquite. It is thriving. > Last summer my husband lightly trimmed it. He now wants to trim the top and > outward branches, which are getting long. We are not experts at trimming, and I don't want to hurt the tree's ultimate shape, or trim it during the wrong time of year. Is it OK to trim the top branches? What is a good > resource for learning the basics of pruning this type of tree. Our book at > home is not really helpful. > > Thanks for your assistance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 16:48:42 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:48:42 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pear Varieties for the Phoenix Metro Area I do not have recent personal experience with pears, but I am unfamiliar with an 'evergreen' variety. All pear trees I'm aware of, including oriental or asian pears, are deciduous trees. If you are looking for a particular variety of fruit, I would suggest consulting the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual, which is available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties Many local nurseries have pear stock. The most important consideration for fruit production will be the number of chill hours the tree needs in the winter months in order to bear. As you might suspect, we require the minimal number here in the Valley. If you are in the higher elevations of North Scottsdale, you may experience more cold than we do in the central city, however. Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener NenaC@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to plant an evergreen pear tree in our back yard. We live in Scottsdale. Would the tree tolerate the heat and if so do you know where I might purchase one? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 16:50:55 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 09:50:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise We have a publication called Backyard Grapes (MC 59) which is not unfortunately, available online. Send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications,University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. As you suspected, now is the time to prune grapes (early January to late February). This publication also has good information on fertilizing, irrigation and pest/disease control. We also have a printed publication on the Yellow and Red Birds of Paradise (MC 44) which is missing from my home reference library. You might call the Master Gardener desk at 602/470-8086 to ask if pruning is covered in the material. They should be able to provide guidance by phone, but if you want this publication, too, you'll need to send an additional $1. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener . guru@samoaone.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a grape vine and I am wondering when and how I go about pruning it for the comming year. I also have a Mexicn Bird of Paradise bush and I want to know when to cut it back. Thank you/ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 17:29:02 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:29:02 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Mesquite I would like to offer a tiny correction to the advice to prune a mesquite this time of the year. The cool part of the year is very inadvisable time to prune all desert legume trees, such as mesquite. They appear to have great limb die back and may be more susceptible to other infections when pruned at this time. The optimal time to prune them is when it is hot, from about April on. However, you should be aware that pruning later in the summer, from about July onwards, may also present a different kind of problem. The natural response to pruning in all trees is a stimulation of the production of new shoot growth. But this response can be overwhelming, particularly for mesquites when they are pruned too late in the hot weather. Consequently, you end up with twice the problem you had in the first place. So, timing is everything, but then isn't it always. Mary From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu Jan 6 19:56:26 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 12:56:26 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass Hi there: My partner and I had great success starting a vegetable garden in the middle of our Bermuda patch without digging or using poisons. Skeptical? So were we. We used a technique known as "sheet-mulching." We were amazed at how well it worked--in fact we will probably never dig up Bermuda again. In a nutshell, sheet mulching involves putting down layers of nitrogenous matter (e.g., animal manure, blood meal), some sort of barrier layer (we used corrugated cardboard), and plant "debris" (fallen leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc.) on top of the weeds (i.e. Bermuda grass). Last February, we followed the steps outlined in _Introduction to Permaculture_ by Bill Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (see full reference below), watered the "heap" for about an hour, covered the heap with a tarp (to keep the dogs and cats from running through it), and let it sit for a month. A few weeks after we removed the tarp, we decided to ahead and plant Swiss chard and arugula in the sheet mulch area. Both were quite successful; in fact, the chard is still going 10 months later. As an added bonus we got a surprise pumpkin out of the process--must have had some seeds in the compost we used. A little later in the season we planted tomatoes and eggplant in the area, and they seemed to thrive as well. While this technique requires some patience too, it requires a lot less work than the dig-and-sift approach we used in our past gardening efforts. If anyone is interested in how to sheet mulch, contact me off the AG list via E-mail. I can send copies of the relevant pages from Mollison and Slay's book via the post. Here's the reference info: Introduction to Permaculture by B. C. Mollison and Reny Mia Slay (Contributor) Paperback - 224 pages Revised edition (November 1997) Ten Speed Press ISBN: 0908228082 Good luck and happy gardening. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 6 >Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 08:44:06 -0700 >From: "Linda A. Guy" <> >To: >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [AG] Replacing Bermuda Lawn > >When I wanted to start a vegetable garden in October some years ago, my >husband and I actually removed the top 8 inches of soil and rhizomes and >replaced with improved topsoil. We were able to >do so because it was a relatively small area. However, for the rest of >the beds we were converting from bermuda, we waited for the summer and >used the more traditional technique of systemic >herbicide. I concur with my colleague's initial response that you will >have to meticulously remove ALL rhizomes. The time you may have to spend >battling the bermuda over the years may not be >worth the effort. Sometimes patience (waiting for the vigorous growth >season in the summer) truly is a virtue! > >Good luck! >Linda Guy >Master Gardener Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From lm1127@webtv.net Thu Jan 6 21:23:11 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:23:11 -0700 (MST) From: lm1127@webtv.net lm1127@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Pruning Acacia & Lysiloma What is the best time of year to prune these trees? My Acacia is a small multi trunk tree (3 1/2- 4 yrs.old) I have occasionally pruned lower branches and it looks pretty good. Now it looks like it's ready to have several more removed, but I don't want to do it the wrong time of year. I also have 2 Lysilomas. The one gets the puff balls followed by the pods, but the other one doesn't. They are both 3 1/2 - 4 yrs. old. Could it be the one is a different tree? Also , I have the same pruning question for these trees. Thanks for any advice. Linda From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu Jan 6 22:39:27 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 14:39:27 -0800 From: George Sifuentes sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in color. Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. From sifuentes1@juno.com Thu Jan 6 22:32:38 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 15:32:38 -0700 (MST) From: sifuentes1@juno.com sifuentes1@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP. I received an Araucaria Heterophylla pine (Norfolk Island Pine. Can this tree survive here. can I plant it outside, if so how and when, is it frost tender, etc. Thanks From saz621@primenet.com Thu Jan 6 23:14:26 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 16:14:26 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] NORFOLKI. PINE George, Your plant is a Norfolk Island Pine, botanically known as Araucaria heterophylla (used to be A. excelsa). It will be 10 ft tall or more at maturity, but it might not get that large here. Plant it on a north facing wall, be sure that it gets plenty of moisture in the summer and that the site it not too terribly cold in the winter. When very small, I would protect it from frost. They are also very good container plants on a patio or in very bright room, in which circumstance they will not get nearly as tall as in the ground. Mary George Sifuentes wrote: > arid_gardener > I received a pine that has a tag that reads as follows: NORFOLKI. PINE > or NORFOLK I. PINE. It has very fine dense leaves, deep green in > color. > Help, what is it and how can I plant it. Will it survive the heat , can > I plant it now the tag says 10" and is about 3 feet in height. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From grenner@gateway.net Fri Jan 7 00:04:20 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:04:20 -0700 From: grenner grenner@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Thanks! This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. I'll = try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've placed = my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks for all your suggestions regarding = the cat=20 litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what = works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area = and we'll=20 see if that stops them.
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF5868.12FBD400-- From tarimul@aol.com Fri Jan 7 03:43:59 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:43:59 -0700 (MST) From: tarimul@aol.com tarimul@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Jan 7 15:24:19 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! Hi, The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity sprinkler. The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look up the garden magazine again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 7 15:13:15 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:13:15 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For years, we have planted ours on St. Francis Day (October 4). -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: hursday, January 06, 2000 8:43 PM > When is the right time to plant sweet pea flowers? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 7 16:53:22 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:53:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii Nena, The Evergreen Pear, Pyrus kawakamii is listed as being suitable for our low desert climate zone and is a beautiful tree when in bloom, however it is subject to so many problems that I personally would not consider planting it. It is subject to iron chlorosis, zinc deficiency, fireblight, crown gall, root knot nematodes, and Texas root rot. The tree during our hot summers does not look very attractive. If after all this you still decide to plant the tree there should be several nurseries selling the tree. Good luck, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 7 16:55:05 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 11:55:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: watering schedule Barb, Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation. It should give you the answers you need. Good luck. Rod http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From mghbird@aol.com Fri Jan 7 15:51:44 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: mghbird@aol.com mghbird@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to prune bouganvilla and how much to cut off From nikita53@juno.com Fri Jan 7 16:34:09 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:34:09 -0700 (MST) From: nikita53@juno.com nikita53@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a small buisness in the Gilbert Heritage District. I am looking for a landscaping program that allows students to plan and apply. If there is such a program please contact me as soon as possible. The area I need to have done is considered in the Heritage District of Gilbert. It would provide a great work experience for students in all phases and would also help a small buisness owner on a very strict budget out. From Aaaorvca@aol.com Fri Jan 7 19:16:46 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 12:16:46 -0700 (MST) From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Aaaorvca@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When and at what frequency, do I need to ferilize? I have 2 orange trees, 1 lemon, 1 grapefruit, and 1 tangerine tree All are less than 6 years of age, with the exception of the grapefruit tree. From cflook@icgconsulting.com Fri Jan 7 22:03:56 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 15:03:56 -0700 (MST) From: cflook@icgconsulting.com cflook@icgconsulting.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have lots of practice in pruning my hybrid tea rose bushes. I cut them back to 4-5 canes in Jan. and prune throughout the year, as my yard is small. But last spring I planted a climbing rose that has done quite well. However, I am a not sure how to prune it this month. Would love some help. Thanks - Christa From manu10@gte.net Fri Jan 7 23:03:42 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 16:03:42 -0700 (MST) From: manu10@gte.net manu10@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm working on a science project for middle school and need some help. I planted some green onions in pots. We cut tops off of matured oninos and used their stocks. Then I watered 3 pots daily with 50 degree water and 3 with 70 degree water and 3 with 107 degree water. I thought that the 70 degree water would do the best but the 107 degree water grew faster and taller. Why would this happen. I live in Hawaii and the plants were in morning shade and afternoon sun. I watered in the early evenings. does something happen to the water or did we just make the climate more perfect for the onions with the hot water. I hope that you have the time for a answer to this emial. Mahalo From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 8 00:54:09 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 19:54:09 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvillea Wait until after the danger of frost to prune Bougainvillea to minimize the chance of frost burn. Bougainvillea is quite frost tender anyway and new growth becomes even more so. You can continue to prune if necessary throughout spring, summer and fall. Good luck. Rod From dmkerr@dancris.com Sat Jan 8 13:42:09 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking. = Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes = flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is there = anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The plants in = pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
My basil plants start out with large = green leaves,=20 perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get = smaller and=20 the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient=20 deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves = and no=20 flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever = seen.
------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF59A3.7CB45E80-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 8 14:51:30 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 07:51:30 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: pruning Mexican Heather I have several Cupheas myself, a few have a hint of cold damage at this time (north face of house). I am not inclined to initiate pruning on these until we enter a slightly warmer time of the year (March mayhap?). We still have risk of cold damage, thedamaged limbs offer protection to the shrubbery underneath and were we to prune now, we would be risking more of the plants. However, I offer you this advice based on personal experience, not empirical evidence. Linda Guy Master Gardener Werbb@aol.com wrote: > Is this a good time of the year to cut back heather that is growing against > the house? From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 8 15:26:23 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:26:23 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] New Cat Control Ideas - 'Earl the Dead Cat' --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however. If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot. Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this. The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat". Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!! Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls. Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time. Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often. Linda Guy Master Gardener grenner wrote: > Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem. > I'll try all of them. I'll let you know what works. Right now I've > placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops > them. --------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We seem to get this question fairly regularly. Sue summarized many of the available options very well, but I recently found a weathered newspaper clipping that contained a few more suggestions. In general, you are thinking about ways to alter the texture of the soil (cats seem to prefer bare soil) to discourage the cat without harming it or the planting soil. Ideas listed were top dressings of compost, lawn clippings, pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed egg shells, and wood ash from a fireplace. These haven't provided satisfactory results for me, however.

If cats enter the yard by scaling a fence, there are evidently sticky pest barriers sold in garden supply stores that can be applied to the top edge of the wall. Cats don't appear to like sticky stuff on their feet. One product referenced was Tanglefoot.

Glass jars scattered around the garden, and partially filled with water, might be a bit of a bother; the article sugggests that cats don't like the light reflection. I have no personal experience of this.

The funniest thing in the article was the strategic placement of a "dead cat".  Evidently, there was a company that sold "Earl, the Dead Cat", a gray toy sprawled in a dead position. He even came complete with his very own death certificate! I would further suggest that you sprinkle Earl with a little predator (coyote, fox) urine, available from several organic farming and garden supply catalogs, to further 'get the word out' to your feline neighbors that they shouldn't be messing around in your yard!!!

Personally I have used pepper spray. I usually start with the 200 proof red pepper powders typically used for medicinal purposes which can be purchased at Gentle Strength, Wild Oats or other such stores. (You want to be VERY careful about washing your hands after making this mixture.) True, this preparation will eventually wash off, but it is so strong that it is enough of a deterrent for at least a several month period, and I don't have to spray with as much frequency as one might expect. Again, my focus is the top of the walls.

Someone objected to the use of the predator urine for this same reason, that it washed off easily. Again, I think having smelled a generous helping of coyot' or other species around your yard, the cats will go elsewhere for some reasonable period of time.

Let us know what works well for you....as I said, we get this question often.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

grenner wrote:

 Thanks for all your suggestions regarding the cat litter problem.  I'll try all of them.  I'll let you know what works.  Right now I've placed my prickly pear pads over the area and we'll see if that stops them.
--------------3701484D1D196DEF2BCC290A-- From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 8 15:49:11 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 08:49:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Basil Growth Habit --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family, Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors). For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer. You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Kerr Family wrote: > My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for > cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant > makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is > there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The > plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. --------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kerr Family,

Your basil is doing what comes naturally: since it is an annual it is producing flowers and setting seeds. As you notice the flower bud forming, simply pinch them off; and there's no reason young, tender buds can't go into your pesto either. You will have to do this fairly routinely during the height of summer growth season (this is generally a warm, not cool season annual outdoors).  For those in the garden, I suggest you let a few go to seed, however. I usually don't buy basil (seed or transplants) any more, relying on the annual crop of 'volunteers' that show up each spring/summer.

You may be able to keep your basils through the winter since they are potted. Some of us can do this in particularly warm spots of the garden and/or in mild winters. However, they will tend to get woody, the taste becomes 'off', and eventually the plant dies in the second season. Since most of us herbies use the plants for cooking and want good flavor, we tend to replace them each spring.

Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kerr Family wrote:

My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for cooking.  Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant makes flowers and seeds.  Is this due to a nutrient deficiency?   Is there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers?  The plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen.
--------------908C0D9B651D3A15D67B6D50-- From mike.todd@asu.edu Sat Jan 8 20:27:17 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 13:27:17 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: Re(2): [AG] Re: Replacing/removing Bermuda grass-longish laguy2@primenet.com writes: >Thanks Mike, > >It's been so long since I read and took classes on Permaculture >techniques that >I had totally forgotten about this. 'Brainset' would have been aided and >abetted if I'd actually done a few of the techniques and could speak from >experience, in addition to book learning! > >I'm interested in your material. But I am also interested in the >longevity of >this solution. You say it worked first season. How many summers has this >pea >patch seen and what has been your experience with recurrence of bermuda? >Could >you post your response to the server, too (minus the attachment, I mean)? >Thanks, >Linda The bed has been through one summer only. Although clayey and heavy, the soil in our yard is pretty good to begin with compared to a lot of desert soils. Even so, back in October when I planted some O'odham I'toi onions, I was very impressed with how friable (and weed-free) the soil in sheet mulched area was given how little effort went into soil improvement. Here are some more details on what we did and our experience: 1) We edged most of the bed with some old landscaping timbers and bricks to help minimize Bermuda infiltration. 2) The only places where Bermuda has appeared is at the edges of the bed and in a couple of the places where we pierced the cardboard to plant the chard, etc. Where the grass has popped up in the middle of the bed, it has been remarkably easy to pull out. 3) All layers except the upper layer of "hard" organic material (leaves and stalks from our Carrizo [Arundo donax]) have "returned to the earth", which leads me to the next detail... 4) Sheet mulching is not a one-time task (Mollison points this out in his book). This is something one does annually as a way building productive soil as well as controlling weeds with a minimal input of energy--whether from your muscles or from the processes involved in the manufacture, packaging, and shipping of synthetic fertilizers and poisons. We also put a "hybrid" bed right next to the sheet mulch area. In this patch, we used the dig-and-filter approach where we dug down 4-6", removed the soil, and picked out the rhizomes and stolons (as best we could). We then put cardboard down in the bottom of the resulting hole. We then blended the filtered topsoil with store-bought organic matter (peat, "forest compost", steer manure) along with sand and gypsum to counteract the undesirable properties of the clay soil. We wet the cardboard and sprinkled it with some blood meal and manure and then put the amended soil in the hole. We also edged this bed with timbers. While both beds produced very well, the hybrid bed had more Bermuda popping up as well as a noticeable accumulation of salts in the soil--although I haven't actually had soil from the two beds tested to see if one side is saltier than the other. I guess we'll need more time to see the results of this little "split- plot" study. I hope this helps. -mike t. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 8 21:51:05 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus An excellent bulletin titled Fertilizing Citrus in Arizona is available for $1.00 from U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix Az. 85040. Also most libraries will have this bulletin available in the Master Gardener Bulletin Manual which you can photocopy. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jan 8 21:51:06 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 16:51:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Climbing Roses Christa, I'm enclosing a portion of an article written by Mary Lou Coffman on pruning climbing roses. If you still have questions, there will be rose pruning demonstrations throughout the valley this month put on by the valley rose societies. If you live in the East Valley there will be demos at Pioneer Park Rose Garden on January 15 and 22 and at Mesa Community College Rose Garden each Saturday morning this month. If you haven't seen the MCC Rose Garden it will be worth your while to come and see the over 2000 roses. Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat Jan 8 13:31:42 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:31:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Thanks! WOW! I'll bet that would work for cats and probably rabbits too! On Fri, 7 Jan 2000 10:24:19 EST JeanSciFi@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Hi, > >The cost is probably too much but I just read about a proximity >sprinkler. >The sensor is triggered by movement. If you are interested I'll look >up the >garden magazine again. > >JeanSciFi@aol.com >Master Gardener Volunteer >Apache Junction, AZ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From info@viapro.com Sat Jan 8 18:55:55 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:55:55 -0700 (MST) From: info@viapro.com info@viapro.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Watched TV this morning about growing grapes in AZ. I'm wondering if it is possible to grow grapes in pots (lg of course)In case I move will they travel? Grapes look like fun. Thank you for your response. Have a Great Day From jrnelson@asu.edu Sun Jan 9 02:41:54 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:41:54 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How should I prune the creosote bushes that grow in our yard. The have grown leggy and unattractive so I cut them back severely. Now I want to encourage them to grow more densely and and limit their height to about 36 inches. From jrnelson@asu.edu Sun Jan 9 02:45:22 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 19:45:22 -0700 (MST) From: jrnelson@asu.edu jrnelson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 14 "dwarf" oleander plants growing on the east side of a 6' concrete block fence so they receive lots of sun. I have recently cut them back and now want to grow them so the foliage is up from the ground, perhaps as much as 12 to 18 inches. Please recommend how to achieve this outcome. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 9 21:47:54 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:47:54 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Oleanders for special effect JR, You can start pruning off the lower branches until the crown is to the level that you want. Be sure not to prune more than 1/4 of the bush at one time and not more than 1/3 in one year. Good luck. Rod From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 10 01:15:35 2000 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:15:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Moving Dwarf Lime Tree I'm trolling for input on removing a dwarf Mexican lime out of the landscape and putting it into a very large patio container. The lime was a 10-gal plant 2.5 years ago when it was put into a large bed. Currently canopy diameter is 4.5 to 5 feet. Trunk diameter about 4 inches. Good producer. Any thoughts on the most appropriate time of year and other special treatment/considerations would be much appreciated. Is one particular container better than another for this purpose. Thanks, Linda Guy From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 10 01:23:51 2000 Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2000 18:23:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] North Wall Shrubbery I've been doing my research and now would like to ask my fellow colleagues about personal favorites for shrubbery on a north facade under the roof eaves. Full shade Nov-Dec-Jan. Midday sun in hot summer months (until about 2-3pm when an adjacent screwbean mesquite throws some filtered relief). This is a fundamentally a native/xeriscaped yard. I'd like 3-5 feet height, similar width. No preference for color (foliage or flower). Security plant (i.e. thorns) would be great since these are under windows; however, this isn't necessary. I would prefer evergreen/semi-deciduous to deciduous. Currently there are baja (red) fairydusters there. They don't look bad, but tend to be leggy, as you might expect. I'd like to update the area. I've been scanning my landscape cd and have some ideas, but would like to hear from you, too. Any suggestions (and why!). Thanks! Linda Guy Master Gardener From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 9 13:50:33 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 06:50:33 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: BASIL Use a nitrogen fertilizer and always pick flowers off. You may be able to get your plant to live a couple of years but the flavor will decrease. Mine did the best in the shade of grapes here near PHOENIX. On Sat, 8 Jan 2000 06:42:09 -0700 "Kerr Family" writes: >My basil plants start out with large green leaves, perfect for >cooking. Then as the plants age, the leaves get smaller and the plant >makes flowers and seeds. Is this due to a nutrient deficiency? Is >there anything I can do to get large leaves and no flowers? The >plants in pots now have the smallest leaves I've ever seen. From GeorgeandShell@juno.com Sun Jan 9 23:31:28 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 16:31:28 -0700 (MST) From: GeorgeandShell@juno.com GeorgeandShell@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? From odaat@ibm.net Mon Jan 10 15:35:31 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 08:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: odaat@ibm.net odaat@ibm.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? Best regards, Don D. From tate@dzn.com Mon Jan 10 18:40:49 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:40:49 -0700 From: Dale Tate tate@dzn.com Subject: [AG] Sheet Mulch Here's a beautiful site that explains the technique of sheet mulching. http://www.agroforester.com/articles/Sheet_Mulching.html Dale Tate 5305 Anchorage Ave. El Paso,TX 79924 http://www.dzn.com/~tate/index.html 915.751.3879 From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Mon Jan 10 19:45:57 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 12:45:57 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] male Persimmon trees I have a friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma who has several male Persimmon trees in his back yard, southern exposure. The branches are being neatly cut off at the bases by, he thinks, either net worms or web worms. He sprays with some kind of pesticide periodically but the problem persists. I don't know what his watering or fertilizing practices are. Is there anything he can do to get rid of this problem for good? Thx, Judy From jconrad@azstarnet.com Tue Jan 11 09:50:00 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:50:00 +0000 From: Julie Conrad jconrad@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Smartscape Hi Carol, Do you know if this workshop will be offered again? Any chance for a Tucson version? Thanks Julie Conrad From Designscapes@uswest.net Tue Jan 11 00:39:03 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 17:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: Designscapes@uswest.net Designscapes@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I have a quick question for you. I have just recently purchased a home whereby the backwash from the pool has been being discharged for several years and looks as if it will have to continue to be in an area where I would like to plant some plants. I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! Do you have any suggestions for some plants that might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! Sincerely, Brett Sweetser From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jan 11 15:37:19 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:37:19 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Bell Pepper Question from Home-Hort WWW page Bitter taste is often due to stress, either not enough water or lack of nutrients. You might also try other sweet pepper types. Gypsy is pretty productive here as is Cubanelle but they may not get as large as the California bells. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- , Monday, January 10, 2000 8:35 AM > I'v had good results on growing bell peppers, > However, they allways taste bitter. Any ideas? > Best regards, > Don D. From R2BESHON@aol.com Tue Jan 11 15:28:16 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:28:16 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] ROSE TREES HERE IT IS JAN AND MY ROSES ARE BLOOMING BEAUTIFULLY. I HATE TO CUT THEM BACK. WHAT SHOULD I DO? THANKS. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 11 19:37:10 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 12:37:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Using Pool Backwash for Plant Irrigation In the same website where you found us, we have a listing of available publications on a variety of topics. Some are even available online. You can find it at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil To specifically address your question, we have a pub which is not, unfortunately, available online. It is 8736 Softened & Recycled Water: Safe for Plants? and it lists various categories of plant material by their abilities to tolerate salt, etc. Although not listed, bermuda lawns are good candidates to receive the water from a backwashed pool, in addition to natal plum, rosemary (doesn't like overwatering, however), Texas rangers, euonymus, oleander and bougainvilla (although the latter produces more of its colorful bracts when a bit stressed for water). Send your request, and $1.00 per publication requested, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Designscapes@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I have a quick question for you. I have just > recently purchased a home whereby the backwash > from the pool has been being discharged for several > years and looks as if it will have to continue to be > in an area where I would like to plant some plants. > I realize that the pool water is alkaline and chlorine > rich and this only spells disaster for plants!! > Do you have any suggestions for some plants that > might prosper in this area?? Thank you very much > if you can help me or not!!! I only recently have > checked out your site, I think it is a great idea!!! > Sincerely, > Brett Sweetser > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From m1afreeman@aol.com Wed Jan 12 00:05:23 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 17:05:23 -0700 (MST) From: m1afreeman@aol.com m1afreeman@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. Mark From maritza@azstarnet.com Wed Jan 12 16:57:06 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:57:06 -0700 From: Mary Swift maritza@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #76 - 7 msgs I am trying to reach the hydroponictomatoes crop web site which is supposedly on the AG.Arizona.Edu site. Netscape says they cannot access. Any idea of how we can access this site? Thanks Frank Swift From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 12 16:53:20 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:53:20 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sunchokes May is okay for planting. In the low desert of Maricopa County, Jerusalem artichokes, aka sunchokes, should be planted late enough in the spring such that the new tender green sprouts will not be killed by frost and early enough so they can complete the growing cycle before the first winter frost frost. Because they take over 6 months to mature, this suggests planting the tubers anytime from late January through the end of May. Summer heat is no problem, because as sunflowers (Helianthus tuberosus, they thrive in it, but while they are growing they will need plenty of water. It helps to shade or mulch the roots. They can be a bit invasive; if any tubers or parts of tubers were left in the ground when you plowed them up, you will certainly have them come up again this year. So I would suggest waiting until the end of March - you may not need to replant. Good Luck! Olin Miller >From: "Toni L. Allen" >To: >Subject: sunchokes >Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:29:27 -0700 > > >... Sunchokes: We planted >them last year, don't recall date---bought them at Albertson's one >morning and they were in the ground that afternoon. Think it was >April. They were doing well, then they got plowed up!!!! Been advised >to plant them in May. I'm wondering if that is advisable---just seems to >me that they'd be battling for survival in the heat of >summer???? ...> From restez@home.com Wed Jan 12 13:47:38 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 06:47:38 -0700 (MST) From: restez@home.com restez@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water does torchfire bougainvilla need this time of year? Mine looks dry and brownish is spsots. From tabeauaz@aol.com Wed Jan 12 18:49:16 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) From: tabeauaz@aol.com tabeauaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jan 12 23:11:53 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:11:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea, watering in the winter Bougainvillea, if established at least a year will do very well in the winter without water. I suspect that the brown leaves are from frost burn. We've had temperatures in the Phoenix suburbs already this winter that were cold enough to freeze bougainvillea. Wait until the new growth is well started I n the spring and then prune off the frost burned parts. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jan 12 23:46:11 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 18:46:11 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Proper Irrigation for turf and trees If you are irrigating rye grass, then the once per week interval in the winter should be ok; if you are irrigating dormant bermuda then the interval is much too frequent. Once a month is plenty for dormant bermuda in the winter. Mesquite trees are simi deciduous which means it is normal for them to loose their leaves during cold weather. Most trees planted in turf here in the low desert must have supplemental irrigation in order to remain healthy. Irrigation for turf typically only penetrates 6 to 12 inches. Trees should have water penetrating to the two to three foot level. The mesquite grows very fast, and the roots that have had only shallow water will have a difficult time keeping the tree upright during some of our summer storms. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Good luck. Rod From jaresteg@nccj.org Thu Jan 13 16:30:33 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 09:30:33 -0700 (MST) From: jaresteg@nccj.org jaresteg@nccj.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu Jan 13 20:10:11 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:10:11 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Mesquite leaf drop Hi there: While it does sound like you could back off on the lawn irrigation, the leaf drop you are experiencing is most likely just the normal winter "behavior" of the mesquite. Mesquites are cold-deciduous just like many other trees. If everything is going right, the leaves you are losing will be replaced in the spring. Hope this helps. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 2 >Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:49:16 -0700 (MST) >From: tabeauaz@aol.com >To: r@Ag.Arizona.Edu> >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >About 3 months ago I had a Chilean Mesquite planted in my front yard. It >is watered by a lawn sprinkler system once a week , the lawn tends to >stay very damp, parts do not dry out at all. In the last month or so, the >tree's leaves are dry and yellow and easily fall off when touched. Am I >over or under watering, or could it be something else? Thank you. Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From R2BESHON@aol.com Thu Jan 13 22:53:17 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 15:53:17 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] frost protection this time of year i cover my plants every night. do i really need to if i know the temp is not going to get below 40 degrees? does it actually need to freeze (32 degrees) for damage to occur or does it just need to be cold? would really appreciate your help. r2beshon@aol.com From rcbrobin@aol.com Fri Jan 14 02:46:17 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:46:17 -0700 (MST) From: rcbrobin@aol.com rcbrobin@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. From Schimkemd@aol.com Fri Jan 14 19:40:28 2000 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 12:40:28 -0700 (MST) From: Schimkemd@aol.com Schimkemd@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have some questions on grasses that grow well in Phoenix. Specifically I am looking for low growing types and wondering if Regal Mist (Muhlenbergia capillaris) fits the bill or if you have other suggestions. From jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Sat Jan 15 06:07:33 2000 Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 23:07:33 -0700 (MST) From: jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find out what it will take to get them to start growing again. Thank You in advance. From saz621@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 17:11:28 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 10:11:28 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have built beds such as you describe and did not use plans per se. But what I did do was determine the height that I wanted, in my case I think it was 29 in, but you be the guide. I then made 4 posts that heigh and used cedar fence posts to finish a box that was 3 ft square. I might also add that diagonal supports can be useful if you intend to fill the entire cube with soil, it will bulge when it is wet. It is also not at all necessary to fill the cube with soil below about 18 in, you can use any kind of rubbly or stuff to fill up the space. The ones I built at in the vegetable garden at the Desert Botanical Garden if you want to go and see how they came out. Mary rcbrobin@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 19:55:46 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:55:46 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Greenhouse Gardening Hello up there in Oregon, Your question has been around a spell, and although I'm not an expert by any stretch, I can offer a few general observations. Since we can garden outdoors all year, I'm sure the greenhouses are also in full swing year round. A greenhouse's purpose is to manage light, temperature and humidity: with a southern or southeastern exposure, light is probably not an issue for the winter (and of course, not for the summer). Unless the plant material has specific light/dark needs, that is, which must be artificially managed. BTU requirements to maintain a 60 degree minimum temperature depend upon both the city's location/elevation and the square footage of the greenhouse itself. I simply don't know if greenhouses in Phoenix (1200 elevation) need heating capacity. In the last few winters which have been very mild, perhaps not. More necessary is cooling/ventilation equipment (we usually use evaporative coolers) to keep air circulating and cool during our blazing summers. We offer a publication on the subject Q19 Hobby Greenhouse Design Notes which is available by sending $1 to Home Horticulture Publication University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 This is more geared toward construction than it is cultivation practice, however. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener willa@gardenpod.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm from Oregon and wanted to know about the differences in your growing seasons for indoor gardening...using greenhouses. What months do gardeners have to either move their gardening inside or not garden at all? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:02:14 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:02:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Needed information Did anyone ever answer this gentleman? I have neither the expertise nor the reference material, and I was curious if someone did. Thanks. Linda "Leonard Faust (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that Dorsett can be used to increase the Anna crop, but can > Anna be used to pollinate Dorsetts? Leonard Faust South > Florida > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:20:08 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:20:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pecan Varieties for Higley, AZ Pecans can be grown successfully for landscape purposes but notes from my Master Gardener classes a few years back indicate that the tree is both a space hog (needs 30' distance from other trees and buildings) and water hog (50 gallons/day for a mature tree when fruiting). Flood irrigation is a good route for pecans. If nut crop production is a consideration and you can only plant one tree, you will need to pick a partially self-pollinating variety. For higher production, cross-pollination is a must. Western Schley can self-pollinate. Success, Wichita, Mohawk, Barton and Bradley are other recommendations for home plantings below 2000' elevation. I also seem to remember some minimum chill requirements for pecans to produce. Again, I learned in class that Phoenix has an average 450 chill hours during the winter...I suppose Higley's could be higher. Ask the nursery where you make your purchase about chilling requirements. December through February is the time to plant bareroot stock. A tree normally requires 6-8 years to produce. We have a good publication on planting pecans, including water, fertilizing, pruning, etc. It's Q303 Pecans for Landscaping and is available for $1 at Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener fil2145@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best varity of pecan tree to plant in the Higley, Az. area? Where can you buy them as a bare root? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:22:10 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:22:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation for Gardenia & Winter Turf I agree that your turf irrigation schedule is too much and is probably what is having a negative impact on your other plants. The schedule you describe may have been necessary for the initial 7-10 days when the soil surface should be kept moist for seeds to germinate. However, eventually the watering interval should be reduced to weekly (perhaps every other week in very cold weather). The objective is to water long enough to keep about the top six to 8 inches moist; let your system run 1/2 hour and then measure the moisture level with a screwdriver. Adjust the time accordingly. You risk turf disease from this watering frequency. As to gardenias, they are not the easiest plants to grow here, as they prefer acidic soil and a bit more humidity (which is not the same as frequent sprinkling from your lawn system). Generally we recommend a single deep watering weekly in the summer (every 21 days in the winter). They are particularly succeptable to chlorosis, and in addition to acidifyng material, periodic applications of iron chelate to prevent iron chlorosis, are recommended. Your gardenias are not blooming because this is not ordinarily the time of year to do so (although given recent 80 degrees in January, who knows what could develop!). Popular varieties for southern Arizona are 'Mystery', which is a larger plant, but with a short bloom period in spring to early summer, and Veitchii which is a bit smaller but a prolific bloomer during May (and sometimes into the summer). We have a good publication on the topic MC29 Gardenias and Camellias. You can pick it up (free) at the Extension office, or send your request along with $1 for the publication, to: Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good Luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener helend5@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 2 questions. > > 1. I have 2 gardenia plants which look very healthy. They get watered with the lawn, 3 x a day for 5 minutes. However, there are no blooms help. > > 2. As mentioned above, I have seeded winter rye over and over and have been told to water 3x daily, 5 minutes each time. The lawn is still very blotchy, some parts are very green, others, very yellow. This amount of watering seems to be unhealthy for my other plants within the same sprinkler system, petunias, snap dragaons and pansies. Please help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:31:44 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:31:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Yellowing Twisted Cereus If you have not already received an answer, permit me to suggest the helpline at the Desert Botanical Garden that is available Monday through Friday from 10 to 11:30am (PN 480/941-1225). Their website is www.dbg.org. I personally do not have the experience to assist you, but I'm sure the folks over there will. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bronwenjones@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My (twisted) Cereus (Senita?) has turned > light yellow. All other Cereus within > 25 feet appear normal, including a large > Suguaro. What causes this and what > should I do about it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:38:44 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:38:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Containing Desert primroses Desert primrose can indeed be very invasive. Lack of water can contain its growth; since they are planted under a tree with low water requirements could this be an option for you? Manual removal will be necessary (or spraying with a systemic as you noted). The other suggestion I would have springs from similar experiences with invasive herbs. I plant many in 5 gallon containers (bottoms removed) that have been buried in the ground in order to contain the root systems. You might consider trying this (or some sort of garden edging material since I don't believe this is a very deep rooted plant). Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > I wrote to you once about my invading primroses...pink bell shaped > flowers that have become like a ground cover in my back yard...I was thinking > that maybe while the soil is damp of "skimming" them off the top with a > shovel. Will this just stimulate them to grow more or can i actually take > them under control. I just can't seem to get to spraying them with roundup or > whatever because there are so many of them and i don't want to kill off all > my other plantings. I planted them around a desert willow tree about 2 years > ago, little did i know! Any input on this subject would be very much > appreciated especially after this rain. Thank you for your time. Renee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:49:45 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:49:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Limes in Winter Hi Louise, Among all the citrus, limes are extremely cold sensitive. They need to be planted in warm areas and protected from cold and wind. They are only recommended in the warmest parts of the Salt River Valley and the Yuma Mesa. It does not sound like it has been placed in a very good location. For more information on protecting your tree against the cold, check out our publication AZ 1002 Frost Protection at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf Most limes ripen from mid to late summer through November. Fruit drop at this time seems reasonable. Did you try a few to taste them? Color is not always an indication of ripeness. (Mexican limes will be more tart than the other recommended variety, Bearss). I don't know what the blackness on the leaves is. Is the tree sprayed with water from a sprinkler (which we wouldn't recommend)? Perhaps its a mildew from a combination of water and cold. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Louise_Howden@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I havea key lime tree in my yard-it gets a black duting over the leaves, also now it is full of fruit and the leaves are starting to turn yellow and falling off-also so of the limes are falling off-it has been cool and windy-about 40 deg. 40 mph winds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 20:58:08 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Recovery of Neglected Citrus Hi Jim, You indicate that the trees were severely stressed several years ago, but do not mention your care practices since that time. Sound fertilization and watering habits are a must, especially in a recovery effort. We have such a fact sheet, MC 8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus which may be of interest to you. You can pick it up free at the Extension office or send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 There are some other publications that could be of interest such as 8464 Citrus Trees in the Home Garden and 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona. Each again will cost $1 if ordered by mail. As to the issue of soil fertility, an analysis can always be helpful and will help you to target more specifically your citrus' trace mineral needs. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago they > were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the back > are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem as the > fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as the > the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need to find > out what it will take to get them to start growing again. > > Thank You in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat Jan 15 21:09:14 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 14:09:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Nonallergenic Trees Hi Mark, Trees recommended in our publication on this topic (MC 62) include the Palo Verdes (Cercidiums), Catclaw and Sweet Acacia (which has a heavenly smell with its blooms about now; have your wife check it out at the DBG in case it will trouble her), Ironwood (Olneya tesota), Feather tree (Lysiloma), and Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis). Other trees to avoid are African Sumac, Olive and Mulberry. You should have a happy tree....most of the front yards in my neighborhood have majestic specimens over all the old septic tanks! Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener m1afreeman@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live on a large lot that has a septic system. I would like to plant a shade tree close to the septic. My wife also suffers with chronic allergies year round, so we would need something that wouldn't make her worse. Cottonwood, Ash, Olive, Mesquite and Junipers worsen her condition. We can use any help and advice on this matter. Thanks. > > Mark > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Sat Jan 15 19:44:10 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) From: loriyoungdahl@uswest.net loriyoungdahl@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Texas Sage bushes in groups of four along our north retaining wall. There is space between each group of four for something else (designed by previous owner). What spot of color (doesn't necessarily have to be flowers) could be planted that has the same watering requirements as the Texas Sage. By the way, what is the proper amount and frequency of water that they need? From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sun Jan 16 05:07:30 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:07:30 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From rancher@phnx.uswest.net Sun Jan 16 05:08:20 2000 Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) From: rancher@phnx.uswest.net rancher@phnx.uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea Vines To Whom It May Concern: We have a back wall of cinder block which stands 6' high. We have planted bougainvillea vines. Over the past few years they have grown heavy and we would like to ask you your opinion for the best method of "supporting" this weight. A wooden trellis might be eaten by termites. A metal trellis might absorb the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. Is there a "neutral" material that can be used for a support for our vines? We certainly would appreciate a response. Sincerely, Sandra & Philip Block e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jan 16 19:04:55 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:04:55 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea Trellis Sandra and Phillip, I've used wood trellis for over 20 years without having a problem with termites. However the trellis that you buy at most nurseries are not heavy enough to hold the load of a mature bougainvillea. I've resorted to building my own out of 1 inch by 1 1/2 inch lumber. Good luck. Rod From rjezeski@aol.com Sun Jan 16 21:28:38 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 14:28:38 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I PURCHASED A ARIZONA ORANGE TREE IN JULY OF 1999,HAD IT PLANTED PROFESSONALLY,IT WAS A 24 GALLON SIZE.CURRENTLY ALL THE LEAVES ARE FALLING OFF.IT BLOSSEMED FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS.NOW I SEE THAT I'M GETTING SMALL LIMBS GO DEAD. I WATER THE TREE IN THE SUMMER TWICE A WEEK FOR 1 HOUR AT A TIME,NOW I'M WATERING TWICE A WEEK BUT FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES AT A TIME.I HAVE NOT FERTILIZED AT ALL.I WAS GOING TO DO THAT IN FEBR.& MARCH. IS MY TREE DYING OR IS THIS NORMAL.MY GRAPEFRUIT TREE HAS ALL OF ITS LEAVES TURNING YELLOW. I ALSO HAVE NOTICED ON THE ORANGE TREE THE LEAVES LOOK LIKE SOMETHING COULD HAVE BEEN EATING AWAY ON THEM. PLEASE HELP ME,WE JUST MOVED HERE FROM WISCONSIN AND CARING FOR TREE THERE ARE DIFFERENT THEN HERE. I ALSO CUT OFF ALL OT THE DEAD BRANCHES ON THE ORANGE TREE. From milkintaz@cs.com Sun Jan 16 22:43:56 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) From: milkintaz@cs.com milkintaz@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When do we first fertilize our citrus trees this year? From godnwife@msn.com Mon Jan 17 00:32:21 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:32:21 -0700 (MST) From: godnwife@msn.com godnwife@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I removed a Mesquite tree and found numerous larva in the earth around and under the tree. Approximate size 7/8" dia by about 2" to 3" long. ivory in color and where the head was a brown color and has a pointed rear with a accordian shaped body. I removed most of them and placed them in a 5 gal.plastic bucket with earth about 1/2 full. What are they? Thank for any info. Regards Phil From honaker@swlink.net Mon Jan 17 14:29:56 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 07:29:56 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Nominations for School and Community Garden Awards Time Sensitive Information! 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Garden Awards DEADLINE Postmark by JANUARY 20, 2000 SPONSORED BY Let's Get Growing in conjunction with the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference "Growing Awareness" February 25-27, 2000 Phoenix, Arizona C A L L F O R N O M I N A T I O N S Each year the Southwest Region Community and School Gardening conference honors individuals, gardens and business for their outstanding efforts in the areas of community and school gardening in the Southwest. Awards are presented at the "Seeds for Change - Garden Basket Reception" and Awards evening. We are asking for your assistance to nominate outstanding efforts and programs in the states of AZ, CA, CO, NM, NV, TX, UT. Categories for awards include: · Outstanding Community Garden · Outstanding School Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a Community Garden · Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden · Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a Community Garden Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency Partnership in a School Garden D E T A I L S Deadline: Nomination must be postmarked by January 20, 000 Award winners will be notified by January 31, 2000. Award presentation will take place at Seeds for Change-Garden Basket Reception 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Saturday - February 26, 2000 at the Arizona Science Center - Phoenix, AZ A representative from your garden must be present at Award Ceremony to receive award. Award winners will receive: Two complimentary tickets to Seeds for Change Event. Additional tickets may be purchased at $75 each. All other transportation and hotel accommodations are the responsibility of award winner. H o w t o S u b m i t N o m i n a t i o n s: 1. Provide information for each item listed in the award category you have selected. 2. Submit on White paper. Do not to exceed 2 double spaced pages. 3. Please include the address/location of the garden and contact person information. 4. Enclose 4 representative slides or photos. These will not be returned. If you are selected as a winner, you may be asked to submit additional photos or slides. AWARD CATEGORIES Outstanding Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Explain the utilization of the Garden space. · How many pounds of food does the Garden produce annually? · Who gets the food produced in the garden? · How does the Garden build community? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to get along and motivate others · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to community gardening Outstanding School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about the Garden · Provide a brief history of the Garden. · Who is involved in the Garden? · How is the Garden used as a learning space? · How many children utilize the Garden annually? · How is the Garden produce utilized? · How does the Garden interact with your community? · What types of gardens/habitats do you have? · Has the Garden received any grants or previous awards? Outstanding Volunteer in a School Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this volunteer's: · Ability to motivate others and interact with students · Leadership skills · Accomplishments or Goals Achieved · Length of time of personal commitment to project · Personal interests relating to school gardening Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a Community Garden Nomination Criteria Tell us about this Agency's: · Personnel support (i.e. volunteers, employee participation incentives) · Administrative support (i.e. publishing of documents, grant writing) · Financial support (i.e. grants, in-kind services, office space, equipment) · Legislative support (i.e. policy development, advocacy) Outstanding Corporate/Public Agency in a School Garden Nomination Criteria (use same criteria listed above for Community Garden) Checklist Remember to Include: 4 Slides or Photos of your Garden Nomination Letter (2 typed pages maximum) Your Contact Information Postmark Application by January 20, 2000 Submit Nomination(s) to: Kristen Battafarano CSG Awards U of A Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Questions? Contact Kristen Battafarano P: 602-470-8086 ext. 356 CF: 602-470-8092 E: kbattafa@ag.arizona.edu From honaker@swlink.net Mon Jan 17 15:25:00 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:25:00 -0700 From: Leslie Honaker honaker@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Join us for the 3rd Annual SW Region Community and School Gardening Conference MARK YOUR CALENDARS! Plan to join us for the 3rd Annual Southwest Region Community and School Gardening Conference - February 25-27,2000 - Phoenix, AZ Unlike any conference you've been to before, this regional conference is hosted at a school practicing school gardening. This unique environment offers a one-of-a kind educational experience. From the line up of national and regional experts, to the hands-on training and networking activities, this conference will give you the tools and information to make your community or school garden a success! Information about the conference is listed below. Also check out our website (http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/aware.htm) to view more and download a registration form. If you would like to receive a conference brochure or have registration questions, please contact Cheryl Czaplicki at 602-942-3289 or email: j-c-czaplicki@worldnet.att.net WHO SHOULD ATTEND? This conference is designed specifically for those with interest in learning about gardening in a community or school setting. Areas of interest include: -Community Gardens -School Gardens -K-12 Educators & Administrators -Food Service Personnel -4/H -Youth Agencies -Public & Botanic Gardens -Horticultural Therapists -Community and Youth Leaders -Child Development Specialists AGENDA: HANDS-ON INSTITUTES (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 9:00 am - 2:00 pm The Farm at South Mountain 6106 S. 32nd Street - Phoenix - Get Growing - Art in the Garden I - Art in the Garden II - Community Food Security Round Table CURRICULUM EXPLORATION (select one/additional fee) Friday - February 25 10:00 am - 2:00 pm County Inn & Suites 808 N. Scottsdale Rd. - Tempe - Food, Land and People - Junior Master Gardeners Program - Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth & Comm. WELCOME RECEPTION Friday - February 25 4:30 - 7:00 p.m. Phoenix Zoo - Harmony Farms 455 N. Galvin Parkway - Phoenix -Early Registration, Tour, Hoe-Down Reception and Appetizers CONFERENCE - DAY 1 Saturday - February 26 7:00 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe KEYNOTE: Lily Yeh, Village for Arts and Humanities SESSION ONE A1. Jr. Master Gardener Program: Using Horticulture to Cultivate Youth A2. The Children's Garden - "The Place for Curious Kids" B. How to Start and Maintain a Community Garden C. Vegetables and Flowers 101: How to Grow and Succeed in the SW D. Entrepreneuralism in Community Gardens E. Gardening + Art + Architecture = Landscape Architecture F1. Volunteers: Finding Them F2. Attracting the Media: What you Need to know and do to get in the news G. Community Food Security: Growing Hope H. Preserving the Harvest: How to can, preserve and store food SESSION TWO A. A Classy Garden - Teaching Any Subject in a Garden Environment B. Partnership to Get and Sustain Land C1. Composting and Worms C2. Mysteries and Histories of Plant Names D. Heritage Gardening E. Garden Photography with Kids F. Volunteers: Keeping Them G. Getting School Garden Produce into the Lunchroom H. A Novel Raised Bed Growing System SESSION THREE A. Regional Breakout: Meet with Others from your Region B. Round Table Discussion: Where are we Now? C. Tours of Community and School Gardens D. Horticulture Jeopardy E. Art in the Garden: Explore the creativity you can add to your garden Agenda Subject to Change Track Legend: A= School Garden B= Community Garden C= Gardening Basics D= Innovative Programs E= Art in the Garden F = Management Tools G.= Nutrition and Food Security H. = Sustainable Practices SEEDS FOR CHANGE - GARDEN BASKET RECEPTION Saturday - February 26 6:00 - 10:00 p.m. Arizona Science Center 600 E. Washington - Phoenix Sponsored by the Arizona Chefs for Sustainable Agriculture and Let's Get Growing. Renowned Arizona Chefs prepare tantalizing appetizers with produce grown by local school and community gardens. Also featured: -Silent Auction Fundraiser -Let's Get Growing Awards for outstanding school and community gardens in the Southwest. -Exhibits and Hands-On Exploration of Science Center Exhibits CONFERENCE - DAY 2 Sunday - February 27 8:00 a.m. - 1:30 p.m. Laird Elementary School 1500 N. Scovel Street - Tempe Keynote: David Hawkins - The Edible Schoolyard General Session: Jim Flint - Kids Garden from Coast to Coast SESSION FOUR A. AZ School Garden Grant Winners: Meet 10 Schools from throughout Arizona B. Poster Gallery: Visit with Attendees to Learn More About their Projects. C. Meet the Winners of the Let's Get Growing Awards SESSION FIVE A1. Nature as a Classroom A2. The Garden and the 3 R's Meet! Integrating Reading, Writing and Math B. Community Gardening as a Community Building Tool C. Pest Management D. Grounds for Peace: Working with At Risk Youth in the Garden E. Gardens for Humanity: Art as a Process for Healing F. How to Evaluate Program Planning G1. Food in the Classroom with the Organic Trade Association G2. Tying Nutrition Curriculum to the Standards and Having Fun! H. Native Habitats Agenda Subject to Change Track Legend: A= School Garden B= Community Garden C= Gardening Basics D= Innovative Programs E= Art in the Garden F = Management Tools G.= Nutrition and Food Security H. = Sustainable Practices FEES: Before 2/1 After 2/1 (see registration form for more details on what each plan includes) Full Conference Plan $200 $250 Basic Conference Plan $175 $225 Group Rate $150 $N/A (Buy 3 regis. at Full or Basic Price. Then each additional reg. at group rate noted above) A La Carte: Before 2/1 After 2/1 One Day Sat. 2/26 $100 $150 One Day Sun. 2/27 $75 $125 Welcome Recep. $35 $35 *Seeds for Change $75 $75 (Buy Full Conf. Plan and bring a guest to Seeds for Change for $25) Hands on Institute - Friday 2/25 (Choose only one. Space is Limited) Before 2/1 After 2/1 Get Growing $30 $40 Art in the Garden I $30 $40 Art in the Garden II $30 $40 Food Security Round Table $10 $15 Curriculum I $20 $30 Curriculum II $20 $30 HOTEL INFORMATION: A block of rooms have been reserved for individual booking. Please book early! Mention CSG Conference to ensure a reservation at the low conference price. Hotel: Country Inn & Suites 808 N. Scottsdale Rd. - Tempe, AZ 85281 1-800-456-4000 Rates: $89 Single/Double $99 Triple/Quad (plus sales tax of 9.97%) *Complimentary Continental "plus" Breakfast included Deadline: Book by January 21, 2000 to reserve the low rate. After Jan 21, rate based upon availability TRANSPORTATION: Guests at the County Inn and Suites receive complimentary airport shuttle and van transportation to locations within a 5 mile radius of hotel. All service is offered between the hours of 6am-10:00 pm upon availability. Complimentary conference bus service will be provided between Laird Elementary, The Farm at South Mountain, Phoenix Zoo and Arizona Science Center. FEATURED SPEAKERS: Keynotes: David Hawkins, The Edible Schoolyard Lily Yeh, Village of Arts and Humanities Presenters: Jim Flint - National Gardening Association Leila Towry - Occidental College Kathryn DiMatteo - Organic Trade Association Tammy Ellsworth - USDA Leticia Lopez - Maricopa County Dept of Health Lisa Whittlesey - Texas A&M University Martha Sealy - Lollipop Gardens - Baton Rouge, LA Dee McLaughlin - New Mexico State University Priscilla Logan - Santa Fe, New Mexico Terry Mikel - University of Arizona Donna DiFrancesco, City of Mesa, AZ Steve Upson, The Nobel Foundation- Ardmore, Oklahoma Kay Studer, Ohio State University Linda Gray, The Family Habitat Garden Project Adele Seronde, Gardens for Humanity Cathy Cromell, Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Jim Manley, Arizona Teacher of the Year And MORE! From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 16 14:10:42 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:10:42 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Texas Sage My Texas SAge has had no water applied and does not usually get any other than what falls from the sky. It is looking very sad (80% of leaves dry and fall off when touched) right now because we have had an unusually dry year. I plan to brush the plant to precipitate leaf fall this week, blow the area and then water. New leaves will come out and if I water about once a month the plant should look well soon. Water once a month in cool weather and every 2 weeks in the summer should be plenty to keep this plant looking fine. I would like one of the agave as contrast of leaf form next to sage. Jojoba does well with very little water. The Santa Rita cactus (turns purple in cool weather) would also be interesting. Hesperaloe is wonderful with its pink blooms most of the summer. One of the tall cactus would be sculptural next to that grey green leaf form. There just aren't many screening plants that are so effective as Texas sage on as little water as it takes. And it can make a great background for whatever you chose to showcase. On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 12:44:10 -0700 (MST) loriyoungdahl@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >We have Texas Sage bushes in groups of four along our north retaining >wall. There is space between each group of four for something else >(designed by previous owner). What spot of color (doesn't necessarily >have to be flowers) could be planted that has the same watering >requirements as the Texas Sage. By the way, what is the proper amount >and frequency of water that they need? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 16 14:23:45 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 07:23:45 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Recovery of Neglected Citrus You also need to consider going to the citrus field days that will be happening next week on both the east and west sides of Phoenix. We you there! On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 13:58:08 -0700 "Linda A. Guy" writes: >arid_gardener >Hi Jim, > >You indicate that the trees were severely stressed several years ago, >but do not >mention your care practices since that time. Sound fertilization and >watering >habits are a must, especially in a recovery effort. We have such a >fact sheet, >MC 8 Recovery of Neglected Citrus which may be of interest to you. You >can pick >it up free at the Extension office or send $1 to > >Home Horticulture Publications >University of Arizona Cooperative Extension >4341 E. Broadway Road >Phoenix, AZ 85040 > >There are some other publications that could be of interest such as >8464 Citrus >Trees in the Home Garden and 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona. >Each >again will cost $1 if ordered by mail. > >As to the issue of soil fertility, an analysis can always be helpful >and will >help you to target more specifically your citrus' trace mineral >needs. > >Good luck, >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >jim_jones@phx.mcd.mot.com wrote: > >> arid_gardener >> I have 23 established citrus trees on my property, several yesrs ago >they >> were badly stressed due to failure to irrigate. The trees along the >back >> are navels grafted on sour lemon rootstock. I suspect a soil problem >as the >> fruit is sparse and not flavorful and they have failed to recover as >the >> the trees in the front have. Would reccomend a soil analysis? I need >to find >> out what it will take to get them to start growing again. >> >> Thank You in advance. >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Arid_gardener mailing list >> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> Archives - > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 16 13:54:44 2000 Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 06:54:44 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Bougainvillea Bougainvillea gets quite woody and supports itself well. Mine was higher than the house and had not any support. For young vines, I like the various electrical conduits because they can be pounded into the ground like a stake and fit over each other and some rebar (concrete reinforcements). They can be painted any color and, in the 7 years I've been using them, have not caused any harm to any plant. The smallest rebar fits into the 1/2 inch metal which fits into the 3/4 inch metal which fits into the 1 inch. I have a pipe bender for the 1/2 inch pipe and bending it just a little keeps the 1/2 inch from disappearing into the 3/4 inch. The nesting helps when you are trying to make an arbor or extend length beyond 10 feet. A small hole into any of these pipes allows you to put a stop screw in to secure the thing. An electric drill can make this hole and a little cutting oil helps the drill accomplish this faster. When you want to remove the pipe, use 2 pipe wrenches applied in opposite directions and sort of screw the pipe out while lifting on the wrench handles (it is hard but not impossible for a woman) or just cut the thing off at ground level with a pipe cutter or hack saw and pound the stump down so you won't trip over it. There have been times when I put a rebar into a ground level cut off pipe when the plant needed support after I thought it could manage on its own....... But, if you leave such a pipe, be sure to put a rock near it so no one trips over the stump! The cheapest part of all this nesting metal is the 1/2 inch electrical conduit: about $1.40, so that is the part I start with and use most. On Sat, 15 Jan 2000 22:08:20 -0700 (MST) rancher@phnx.uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >Re: Your Recommendation for a Proper Trellis > to Support large, heavy Bougainvillea > Vines > > To Whom It May Concern: > > We have a back wall of cinder block > which stands 6' high. We have planted > bougainvillea vines. Over the past few > years they have grown heavy and we would > like to ask you your opinion for the > best method of "supporting" this weight. > > A wooden trellis might be eaten by > termites. A metal trellis might absorb > the terrific heat of the Arizona summers. > > Is there a "neutral" material that can > be used for a support for our vines? > > We certainly would appreciate a response. > > Sincerely, > > Sandra & Philip Block > > e-mail: rancher@phnx.uswest.net > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 17 17:30:15 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 10:30:15 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gardening with Physical Disabilities Another avenue would be to start at the American Horticultural Therapy Association's website http://www.ahta.org/index.html In their publications list, they include design plans such as you requested for about $4. There are other websites dedicated to bringing gardening and its benefits to those for whom traditional garden access is not an option. A good search engine would turn up more than a few; I know mine did using 'horticultural therapy' as a topic. Linda Guy Master Gardener rcbrobin@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to find plans to build raised garden beds that can be used by someone in a wheelchair. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rlmcmm@juno.com Mon Jan 17 19:26:51 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:26:51 -0700 (MST) From: rlmcmm@juno.com rlmcmm@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What varieties of strawberries do you recommend for growing sustainable, productive crops in the Phoenix area? Most of the discount stores sell Sequoia which do not appear well suited to the local climate. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon Jan 17 21:24:42 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:24:42 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Railroad ties for planters Hello, The park where I live has been offered a bunch of free railroad ties and the landscape committee would like to know if the creosote would harm plants. The ties would be used to make planters against a sloping bank. Thanks, Jean From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon Jan 17 21:48:33 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:48:33 EST From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Greenhouse in AZ I'm happy to find someone else gardening in a greenhouse even though you are not in Arizona. I am growing vegetables of all kinds in my greenhouse that has only been here since march last year. I have a small oil filled electric radiator for overnight because the temperature actually follows the outside temp. It probably would stay above freezing without it but I have tomatoes and bell peppers growing like mad if I keep it over 60 with the heater. Our night-time temperatures right now average about 45. It (the greenhouse temp) gets to about 80 - 85 in the daytime with the windows open with no fan. Last summer we put in an evaporative cooler to keep it down and it was still difficult and most things just hung on til cooler weather. We covered it on the outside roof with shade screen and that didn't have any effect on the temperature. I had put in grow lights because it is against the house on the southeast side and doesn't get sun for 6 hours like recommended, and they are on all day, 7am to 7pm. My main problem is insects, mainly whiteflies and they are horrible. I just sent for a batch of ladybugs from Burpee. ( they surely won't leave would they?) One thing I recommend is finding compact plants that produce full size vegetables because growth is so amazing that you will run out of space. I have tomatoes, peppers, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, lettuce, garlic, strawberries (in hanging baskets) onions, irises, miniatures roses, and I keep sticking more things here and there. This sounds like a lot of stuff but there are only about 4 each of most things. From lm1127@webtv.net Mon Jan 17 23:07:02 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 16:07:02 -0700 (MST) From: lm1127@webtv.net lm1127@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Yucca problem I have a Yucca aloifolia ( spanish bayonet) that looks like it could be dying. About a month or 2 ago, I first noticed that the leaves were getting long pale splotches on them and the end of the leaves looking brown. It seems to be getting gradually worst. The leaves are beginning to wilt now, too. Is there anything I can do? Any plant food that it might be needing? From elyob@surnames.com Mon Jan 17 22:42:19 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 15:42:19 -0700 (MST) From: elyob@surnames.com elyob@surnames.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have grab or nut grass in our veggie garden area and we want to nuke it. Is "Manage" an herbacide good to use or shall we do something else? Your help is appreciated. From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Jan 17 16:12:15 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 09:12:15 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Citrus fertilizing February, May & August. There is a citrus event scheduled for January every year call 602-470-8086 to register to attend. On Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:43:56 -0700 (MST) milkintaz@cs.com writes: >arid_gardener >When do we first fertilize our citrus trees this year? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From ranchand@worldnet.att.net Tue Jan 18 05:11:41 2000 Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:11:41 -0700 From: Jake Nash ranchand@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree Question --=====================_3183382==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi, Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land? I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves. I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona. I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land. I'd appreciate any information you can provide. Sincerely, Jake Nash --=====================_3183382==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi,
Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land?  I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves.  I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona.
I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land.
I'd appreciate any information you can provide.
Sincerely,
Jake Nash 
--=====================_3183382==_.ALT-- From TAZ3R@aol.com Tue Jan 18 15:01:12 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:01:12 -0700 From: by way of Patti Baciewicz TAZ3R@aol.com Subject: [AG] My lawn Hi, I want to "redo" my yard. I would like to kill the grass that is there and lay sod. Can you tell me how to kill the grass that is there & then how to prepare the soil for the sod? What type of sod would you suggest? I want blades not runners. I am from the Midwest & a thick lush yard is very important to me. If you can't help me could you direct me to someone who can? Thank you! From pacarlson1@aol.com Tue Jan 18 15:17:49 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 08:17:49 -0700 (MST) From: pacarlson1@aol.com pacarlson1@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to AZ. I have a lemon, grapefruit and tangelo trees approx. 9 yrs. old. I would like info on how to care, water, prune trees. I have a drip system and need to know correct amt. of water to provide. Trees look overgrown, need to know how to prune. Also fruit is splitting on lemon tree. Last yr. lemons were huge, this yr. very small, why? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jan 18 21:21:00 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:21:00 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Nut Grass The herbicide Manage is probably the best available to control nut grass. Be sure to follow the instructions OnTime package. It will take more than one application. Good luck. Rod From azdragon33@hotmail.com Tue Jan 18 23:02:09 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 16:02:09 MST From: Patricia Coburn azdragon33@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Spots on succulent-like cacti I have several thick succulent-like cacti growing in pots. In the last month, I have noticed rust colored spots, some, but not all, are like blisters under the "skin" of the plant. I do hot have any of these on my other cacti plants. Can someone help identify this? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From pwenter@chw.edu Tue Jan 18 21:30:49 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 14:30:49 -0700 (MST) From: pwenter@chw.edu pwenter@chw.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. From kitteakat@aol.com Tue Jan 18 22:29:32 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:29:32 -0700 (MST) From: kitteakat@aol.com kitteakat@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 lantanas in my yard. One looks great, big and in bloom. The other doesn't look very big, no blooms, ends look very dry and leaves are a brown/purple color. What is wrong and what should I do? From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue Jan 18 13:37:18 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:37:18 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Sequoia strawberries A friend at the community garden planted strawberries that bloomed pink. They were very interesting and he insisted that they had been labeled "Sequoia". He grew them 2 years hoping for wonderful strawberries before he removed them since his reason for growing them was the berries. I have grown Sequoia and they never bloomed pink. The Sequoia i grew did not come from a discount place. My berries were planted in 3 4-foot beds under grapes and shaded from April to May, when the grapes got enough foliage to protect the strawberries. My plants started bearing in late March and continued into June. They had big berries and had to be protected against birds. They continued for about 3 years before I left them one summer without adequate water while I was away. Strawberries need lots of shade during June - September but none during October - March. October - November is the right time to plant them and, with proper water and fertilizer, they will bear the next spring and for a couple of years. Planting with grapes is problimatical since the grapes are going dormant (needing water withheld) right when the strawberries are needing to make runners and prepare next years berry buds. The grapes act like an evaporative cooler for the strawberrries during hot weather. Asparagus did not provide enough shade for strawberries and made protection from birds very difficult. The birds are a major problem and even with close cover a few berries will be damaged...... perhaps lizards like berries too. On Mon, 17 Jan 2000 12:26:51 -0700 (MST) rlmcmm@juno.com writes: >arid_gardener >What varieties of strawberries do you recommend for growing >sustainable, productive crops in the Phoenix area? Most of the >discount stores sell Sequoia which do not appear well suited to the >local climate. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue Jan 18 13:57:53 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 06:57:53 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Yucca problem It might be that your original yucca is simply suffering from so little water in the past 4 months. Water it well and see if it improves. You can cut off the top, move it to a new area with some shade and try to root it. You might want to try it with only part of your original plant. a gallon jug with the bottom removed can be put over the cutting to help increase humidity and reduce wind drying (I like cranberry juice jugs because the bottom can be sawed off with a bread knife). Leave the cap off. A little root homone would probably help. When I did mine, it was in a vegetable garden and treated like just another vegetable. Yucca needs a little shade in the low desert even after it has roots and you might want to treat the area where your original yucca is growing with diazinon in case you have agave weevil infesting the area. >arid_gardener >I have a Yucca aloifolia ( spanish bayonet) >that looks like it could be dying. About a month or 2 ago, I first >noticed that the leaves were getting long pale splotches on them and >the >end of the leaves looking brown. It seems to be getting gradually >worst. >The leaves are beginning to wilt now, too. Is there anything I can >do? >Any plant food that it might be needing? > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From palshatti@uswest.net Wed Jan 19 02:11:36 2000 Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) From: palshatti@uswest.net palshatti@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it had a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the flesh is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. From henryr@kaibab.com Wed Jan 19 20:28:50 2000 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 13:28:50 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to overtill (rototiller) a patch of ground set aside for gardening someday? I till in composted leaves,etc. every 5-6 months just to keep my tiller operational. I do find lots of earthworms when I do the tilling. How often can I till my gardening area? From AZSpots@aol.com Wed Jan 19 22:30:11 2000 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 17:30:11 EST From: AZSpots@aol.com AZSpots@aol.com Subject: [AG] Goat Heads My dogs pick up some kind of very sharp pricker/thorn that the neighborhood kids call "goats heads" (because they look like horns on a head up close). I've seen these all over Phx and don't want to plant whatever makes them in my yard. Do you know what plant produces them? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jan 20 02:14:31 2000 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 19:14:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Goat Heads ----- Original Message ----- From: , Wednesday, January 19, 2000 3:30 PM > > My dogs pick up some kind of very sharp pricker/thorn that the neighborhood > kids call "goats heads" (because they look like horns on a head up close). > I've seen these all over Phx and don't want to plant whatever makes them in > my yard. Do you know what plant produces them? > Following is an edited excerpt from the arid_gardener archive at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0285.html "When we moved to our current home [...] there were large patches of goat heads (aka puncture vine) [Tribulus terrestris L.] growing all over the place. We have very diligently destroyed every plant we've seen ever since, before they go to seed, and the population is dwindling but we still have a few new plants each year, possibly by bringing them in from the desert on shoe soles and bicycle tires. But it's more likely they're residual seeds from the old plants that are finally germinating. There are typically 2 to 5 seeds in each caltrops-like, hard seed capsule that may be dormant for years until moisture conditions are right for germination. In an irrigated garden situation such as yours, it may take only a few years for all of the seeds to germinate. ..." Olin From dgkazmer@juno.com Wed Jan 19 13:25:35 2000 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 06:25:35 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Lantana Some of the lantanas turn red - purple - brown in reaction to cool weather. They like sun but survive in shade. Very few bloom in cool weather. My white and purple ones have a few blooms and are quite dark leaved right now in Janauary. The yellow ones look dead and the red mixed colored ones have healthy-looking green leaves. All of them will look better as the weather warms. The yellow one will take a while to bloom when it gets warmer but will put out new leaves. They are good plants for the Phoenix area and bloom with less water than many annuals need. You may be doing everything right. They don't need much care. Generally my lantana get water once a week all year, less in cool weather than hot. One of the yellow lantanas is growing in the driveway 6 feet from my vegetables and never gets any water applied directly upon it. It is very dry now but will probably recover with warmer weather just as it has for the last 4 years each spring. And I park my car on top of it a couple of times each week when I work in that community garden! On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 15:29:32 -0700 (MST) kitteakat@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >I have 2 lantanas in my yard. One looks great, big and in bloom. The >other doesn't look very big, no blooms, ends look very dry and leaves >are a brown/purple color. What is wrong and what should I do? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From TAEHYRD@AOL.COM Thu Jan 20 01:48:27 2000 Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2000 18:48:27 -0700 (MST) From: TAEHYRD@AOL.COM TAEHYRD@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are Lilacs available that will grow in phoenix ? If so where can I find them. I have seen plants in offered by Park seeds but they will not ship to AZ. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jan 20 16:30:28 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:30:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Lilac Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: , Wednesday, January 19, 2000 6:48 PM > arid_gardener > Are Lilacs available that will grow in phoenix ? If so where can I find them. I have seen plants in offered by Park seeds but they will not ship to AZ. > >>A friend told me that a "lilac" has been developed that will >> thrive in the Phoenix climate. Can you find out. If so, where >>can I purchase. The lush, large-plumed lilac most people are familiar with probably will not bloom here. Consider Persian lilacs instead. The following is from the arid_gardener archive dated June 9, 199 at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3273.html "We have one that was tagged as a "Persian Lilac" when we bought it about 15 years ago. Actually bought 2 but one didn't survive. I think it must be "Syringa persica" because it fits the description in "Sunset Western Garden Book" Ours is 7-foot tall bush that blooms for about one month in the spring (during Lent). Blossoms are very fragrant, look like common lilac but are smaller and are pale in color, perhaps more pinkish that lilac-colored. We started 2 more last year by chopping off a section off the side of the bush, including the root, and planting it - still look okay but growth is pretty slow. Watering is irregular and infrequent - whenever we think it might need it. Any garden center or nursery should be able to get it for you. Olin MIller From canegrande@rocketmail.com Thu Jan 20 16:17:00 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 09:17:00 -0700 (MST) From: canegrande@rocketmail.com canegrande@rocketmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am seeking advice on the care of some citrus trees. I live on a little less that a quarter of an acre and there are 6 grapefruit trees and 2 ornamental orange trees. Irragation is the means by which they are watered and to me they seem ok. there are a few though that are not doing so good. On some of the trees it looks as though they are about to die. The main branches are loosing their bark and where the bark has peeled away the main core of the tree is dead. It looks as if the only way the tree is sendeing water and nutriens to the branches is through the remaining bark that has not fallen off. this bark that is still attached to the trees is always in the shade. Does the sun cause this damage? If so what can i do to fix the trees and still have some good yeilds? Or do I need to prune it back? The trees are at least 30 years old? Please advise. thank you, scott From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 17:11:41 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:11:41 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fig Tree Losing Leaves Is this fig a fruit tree (which is deciduous and would be virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you provide the variety? Linda Guy pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 17:40:31 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:40:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Growing Grapes in Containers I have never heard of anyone cultivating grapes in containers. From my personal experience (which is a bit old, I'll grant you) of growing grapes in the ground, the biggest challenge would be for you to provide ample trellising capability for what can be substantial vines. This is not, however, to say that it can't be done. If you try it this season, please write us back and share your experiences. We'd love to learn more! Grape growing was not thought to be the most easy home gardening experience in my master gardener classes. We have an excellent publication on grape growing MC 59 Backyard Grapes (which echoes this sentiment) which you can get by mailing $1 to (if you pick it up it's free) Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Happy growing! Linda Guy Master Gardener info@viapro.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Watched TV this morning about growing grapes in AZ. I'm wondering if it is possible to grow grapes in pots (lg of course)In case I move will they travel? Grapes look like fun. Thank you for your response. Have a Great Day > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 17:57:14 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 10:57:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Strawberries for Maricopa County Strawberries will grow in our county, but do require good care as they are an acid-loving plant and our soils are alkaline. As you already noted, variety selection is key. There are two types: June-bearing or one crop per year types (Sequoia, Tioga, Lassen, Shasta, & Tufts) and everbearing types (Douglas, Chandler, Gem, Streamliner & Ozark Beauty). June-bearers are thought to do better than everbearing types, but these are often allowed to fruit for one year and then are replaced the following fall for maximum production. (Strawberries have to be coddled in our intense summers.) We have a good, four-page publication 8665 Strawberries for Home Gardens that describes site considerations, soil prep, planting, varieties, culture and treatment of problems. I would recommend you get a copy. Most public libraries have a reference copy of our horticulture pubs, but you can also send $1 to (or go to the office to pick it up for free at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Watch out for those birds which may well beat you to your crop! Linda Guy Master Gardener GeorgeandShell@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 18:00:45 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:00:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Creosote In personal experience with creosote and any other native plants in the landscape, the lushness will be directly proportional to the water received. If the plants are not on a system, they will continue to grow in a fashion that approximates what they do normally in the desert. Add some occassional watering, particularly in the summer, and you will have a lushly green creosote. We generally recommend that no pruning should remove more than one third of a plant. However, I too have pruned these and other desert plants like brittlebush fairly severely, based on experimentation, and later confirmed by a landscape instructor at the Desert Botanical Garden. However, I do not do this type of pruning now, when there is still some cold/frost risk. My pruning of many indigenous plants is usually in the April/May timeframe. Sprouting wood can help me see what is productive and what is dead. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jrnelson@asu.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > How should I prune the creosote bushes that grow in our yard. The have grown leggy and unattractive so I cut them back severely. Now I want to encourage them to grow more densely and and limit their height to about 36 inches. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 18:01:10 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:01:10 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves Paul, While Mission does fairly well in this elevation, Brown Turkey is only a moderate performer, preferring the 2000 - 3000 foot elevations, according to our publication MC23 Home Grown Figs. This is the month for any annual pruning you might care to do; our pub has suggestions for handling trees about your size to encourage low branching and to select key limbs which will eventually be the core of the canopy. Figs normally bear two crops, first in June on the old wood and later in the summer through October on the new wood. They are extremely tolerant of neglect: I prune my next door neighbor's figs that are half in my yard. He never waters them (nor do I since that portion of my xeriscaped yard is essentially without irrigated material), nor are they ever fertilized; they are prolific producers nonetheless, although this may not last forever. In the summer, we suggest irrigating mature trees ever two weeks or so. One third that amount is considered adequate in the winter. Be careful not to overwater your tree, which you sound at risk for at this time. They are susceptible to Texas Root Rot. Fertilizer is suggested in January and May: 2 cupfuls each time in the second year, adding one total additional cup per year until year 5 when you can treat this as a mature tree with different fertilization standards. I really recommend the publication referenced above which you can get by sending $1 to (or get it for free if you can swing by the office at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > It's a fruit tree. Planted from a 2 gal container. It's about 4'9" tall > and 1" diameter. It said mission fig on one part of the tree and brown > turkey fig on another part of the tree. > > thx > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:12 AM > To: pwenter@chw.edu > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > Is this fig a fruit tree (which is deciduous and would be > virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you provide the variety? > > Linda Guy > > pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I planted a small fig tree last July. It seemed to be > doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth in the Summer). > It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to dry up green as if > the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree when it gets cold at > night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my citrus trees. It's > getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines for 198 minutes > space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > > Is this okay? Am I doing something wrong? thx. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 20 18:05:41 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 11:05:41 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Strawberries for Maricopa County Strawberries will grow in our county, but do require good care as they are an acid-loving plant and our soils are alkaline. As you already noted, variety selection is key. There are two types: June-bearing or one crop per year types (Sequoia, Tioga, Lassen, Shasta, & Tufts) and everbearing types (Douglas, Chandler, Gem, Streamliner & Ozark Beauty). June-bearers are thought to do better than everbearing types, but these are often allowed to fruit for one year and then are replaced the following fall for maximum production. (Strawberries have to be coddled in our intense summers.) We have a good, four-page publication 8665 Strawberries for Home Gardens that describes site considerations, soil prep, planting, varieties, culture and treatment of problems. I would recommend you get a copy. Most public libraries have a reference copy of our horticulture pubs, but you can also send $1 to (or go to the office to pick it up for free at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Watch out for those birds which may well beat you to your crop! Linda Guy Master Gardener GeorgeandShell@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do stawberries grow in maricopa county? If so what kind do the best and what are the planting dates? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jan 20 21:24:53 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 16:24:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig tree Both the edible and the ornamental figs are frost tender. If you live in the Phoenix area particularly in the out lying areas there have been several nights when the fig trees could be frost burned if not adequately protected. Sounds like your irrigation schedule is ok for now, however as the tree matures you will need to move your drippers outward away from the trunk to irrigate near the dripline of the tree. You will also need to increase the number and the size of the drippers. Water should be penetrating to the three foot depth which can be accomplished by adjusting the irrigation interval. Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Thu Jan 20 14:12:43 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:12:43 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemon rind Fertilizer causes thick rinds. Are you sure that you don't have a tree from below the graft (rough lemon)? More water (but not watering more often than every 10 days) during the heat and as the fruit ripens might help the juicyness of the fruit or pick it sooner. On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) palshatti@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it had >a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit >has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the flesh >is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit >quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). >Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From reeva5@speedchoice.com Fri Jan 21 02:00:29 2000 Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: reeva5@speedchoice.com reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! From saz621@primenet.com Fri Jan 21 15:54:12 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 08:54:12 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Railroad ties for planters Jean and all: A comment on your railroad tie offer. If it were me I would accept them only if I planned to use them on ornamental plants. The creosote and some of its components will leach over time out of the ties and therefore, I would personally not recommend you use them for growing anything you will eat. Mary JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, > > The park where I live has been offered a bunch of free railroad ties and the > landscape committee would like to know if the creosote would harm plants. > The ties would be used to make planters against a sloping bank. > > Thanks, Jean > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 21 18:17:29 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 13:17:29 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus bark peeling Scott, Trees and plants usually thrive when watered with flood irrigation. The bark peeling on the limbs could be caused by sun burn if exposed to the sun, or could be caused by a fungus called Rio Grande Gummosis for which there is not a cure, however it is usually not fatal. If sunburn is the problem, any exposed to the sun limb or trunk should be painted white provided it still has bark. At 30 years your citrus trees are in their twilight years so be kind to them with proper fertilization and irrigation. An excellent bulletin titled "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden" is available for $1.00 from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, Az. 85040 Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jan 21 19:20:13 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 14:20:13 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Prickly Pear with cottony insect The insect that you are asking about is called Cochineal Scale and is commonly found on Prickly Pear cactus. The good news is that it is quite easy to control. Simply wash the insect off the cactus with a strong stream of water. Be sure to remove all of the insects from the cactus. If left on the cacti the insect could eventually cause the demise of the cacti. The red insects were used by the Indians to make a dye. Good luck. Rod From mike.todd@asu.edu Fri Jan 21 19:38:50 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:38:50 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Cochineal infestation Hello: Indeed, your cacti are infested, but it's a pretty benign infestation...if it's not too far advanced. The cochineal beetle is the source of the white fuzz and the red liquid. Try the following web address for some detailed information on controlling cochineal infestations: http://www.arizonacactussales.com/tips/cochineal.htm Hope this helps. -Mike Todd PS. Interesting ethnobotanical information on cochineal can be found at this address: http://www.lifesci.ucla.edu/botgard/html/botanytextbooks/economicbotany/Cochineal/ arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 3 >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) >From: reeva5@speedchoice.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear >cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would >never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were >that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. >Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we >can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care >of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From tyjas@juno.com Fri Jan 21 19:32:25 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:32:25 -0700 (MST) From: tyjas@juno.com tyjas@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page With the so many problems with queen palms, how do you diagnose pink bud rot? From lencleo@aol.com Fri Jan 21 19:43:05 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:43:05 -0700 (MST) From: lencleo@aol.com lencleo@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you plant xamas pointsettas outside here in Chandler?If not,can you give me a little info on how to save them. Thank you very much for your time.. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jan 21 21:34:20 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:34:20 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: Prickly Pear Cactus The symptoms you describe sound like cochineal scale, an insect that feeds on prickly pear cactus. --- Several insect predators control this scale, including several species of lady beetles, syrphid flies and lacewing larvae. The cochineal scale grows at the base of needles of prickly pear cactus forming a mass of stringy whitish globs. This insect was highly prized by early explorers because the crushed bodies make a colorfast (red) dye. (from Arizona Master Gardener Manual) --- You may also try washing the insects off with a strong jet of water. In small areas, a spray of 50-50 rubbing alcohol and water may also be effective. You may want to remove pads that are severely infested. Linda Drew, Pima County Master Gardener =================================================== Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: reeva5@speedchoice.com To: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for your help!!! ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From CNJNAZ@aol.com Sat Jan 22 00:08:17 2000 Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 17:08:17 -0700 (MST) From: CNJNAZ@aol.com CNJNAZ@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi. I live in the Scottsdale area and have a 35 year old mulberry tree that has a fungus growing from several branches. The color of the fungus is generally brown and ranges in size from baseball to softball. Any ideas on what it may be and how to get rid of it? One further note, in my neighborhood, there has been a longstanding practise of cutting the branches off the trees every winter. Thank you for your help, Chris From nikky@nwphx.quik.com Sat Jan 22 19:59:00 2000 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 12:59:00 -0700 (MST) From: nikky@nwphx.quik.com nikky@nwphx.quik.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm trying to contact the Az. Federation of Garden Clubs, but have been unable to find a listing. They had a booth at the Home & Garen Show earlier this month, with small loquat trees for sale. I'm interested in purchasing one & learning more about this type of citrus. Thanks!!! From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat Jan 22 14:29:26 2000 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:29:26 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Poinsettias There is a poinsettia bush growing on the south side of a home in my neighborhood which must be similar to a home in Chandler. It is right up against the house (under the eaves) and about 4-5 feet in diameter and tall. It was blooming beautifully in December. Sights like this are a good reason for taking a walk.....even when you don't like poinsettias. My sister visited Phoenix in 1947 and says that they were everywhere in town growing under the eaves where they would get the roof drippings. She also says that most of Phoenix was unirrigated at that time. Perhaps these few sentences can help you with your adventure. Maybe the reason they have become so popular is because they survive so long in dry places (heated homes) and continue to bloom (red bracts)...............which is exactly why I've become so prejudiced against them............ Rabbits usually won't eat things that bleed that white sap............. maybe I should reconsider my prejudice. On Fri, 21 Jan 2000 12:43:05 -0700 (MST) lencleo@aol.com writes: >arid_gardener >Can you plant xamas pointsettas outside here in Chandler?If not,can >you give me a little info on how to save them. Thank you very much >for your time.. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 23 12:53:00 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:00 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] re: Prickly Pear Cactus I loved your information! Thank you. On Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:34:20 GMT "Linda Drew" writes: >arid_gardener >The symptoms you describe sound like cochineal >scale, an insect that feeds on prickly pear >cactus. > >--- >Several insect predators control this scale, >including several species of lady beetles, >syrphid flies and lacewing larvae. > >The cochineal scale grows at the base of needles >of prickly pear cactus forming a mass of stringy >whitish globs. This insect was highly prized by >early explorers because the crushed bodies make a >colorfast (red) dye. >(from Arizona Master Gardener Manual) >--- > >You may also try washing the insects off with a >strong jet of water. In small areas, a spray of >50-50 rubbing alcohol and water may also be effective. >You may want to remove pads that are severely >infested. > >Linda Drew, >Pima County Master Gardener >=================================================== >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) >From: reeva5@speedchoice.com >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >I am on the board of a association. >We were told that our prickley pear cactus >is infested with a beetle . We were told >that this beetle would never go away >and that we could do nothing about it. >The symptoms were that the cactus was >white, and when I broke it off red liquid >came out. Its this true?? What is the >name of the beetle?? Is there anyway that >we can save the cactus is tha >community? What is the best way to take >care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so >much for your help!!! > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Sun Jan 23 12:53:36 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 05:53:36 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Lemon rind Yesterday, while I was wandering around in Brookbank's "Desert Gardening" I ran across a passage that suggests that dry fruit can be the result of frost damage. I hadn't remembered that. The passage said that the next morning after the frost one should pick the fruit on the outside of the tree and juice it immediately because if left on the tree it would become dry. It further said that the fruit on the interior of the tree would have more protection from frost and might be okay to leave. Is the fruit on the outside of your tree less juicy than the fruit on the interior? On Thu, 20 Jan 2000 07:12:43 -0700 Dawn G Kazmer writes: >arid_gardener Fertilizer causes thick rinds. Are you sure that >you don't have a tree from below the graft (rough lemon)? More >water (but not watering more often than every 10 days) during the heat >and as the fruit ripens >might help the juicyness of the fruit or pick it sooner. > >On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) palshatti@uswest.net writes: >>arid_gardener >>We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it >had >>a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit >>has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the >flesh >>is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit >>quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). >>Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. >> >> >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Arid_gardener mailing list >>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >>Archives - >_______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing >list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - > From dgkazmer@juno.com Sat Jan 22 14:03:03 2000 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 07:03:03 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Cochineal scale Some cactii are more attractive to these biblical insects from which red dye has been made. The books suggest spraying the plant with a strong blast of water to "wash them off". I find that the creatures are "wearing raincoats". Also, most cactii don't need the kind of water it would take to blast them away. A cactus under attack from these insects won't survive rotted roots. My favorite master gardener uses Windex to penetrate their waxy protection. My favorite way is to remove them with a cue stick dipped in alcohol. Now this is very practical when there aren't very many of them. On my walks, I've seen such terrible infestations that I would remove the plant. One thing is certain: you will have to intervene because they won't just go away and will get worse. They are not good for the cactus which will decline under their predation. Also, every other cactus in the vicinity is going to be in danger of infestation. In my yard, the cactus to watch has very long thorns and none of the velvety glaucids. If I keep this cactus free of the cochineal scale, none of the others are bothered. A monthly inspection is all it takes and I found only one creature yesterday (at the base of a thorn)...... a 5 minute chore to do. In a cactus with glaucids, I would probably remove the worse infected pads or the entire plant or try the window cleaner.................windshield cleaner. You should probably rinse the cleaner off with water but don't use more water than necessary, especially in the winter. On Thu, 20 Jan 2000 19:00:29 -0700 (MST) reeva5@speedchoice.com writes: >arid_gardener >I am on the board of a association. We were told that our prickley >pear cactus is infested with a beetle . We were told that this beetle >would never go away and that we could do nothing about it. The >symptoms were that the cactus was white, and when I broke it off red >liquid came out. Its this true?? What is the name of the beetle?? Is >there anyway that we can save the cactus is tha community? What is the >best way to take care of this type of cactus?? Thanks so much for >your help!!! > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From ybear551@cs.com Sun Jan 23 01:01:50 2000 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:01:50 -0700 (MST) From: ybear551@cs.com ybear551@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. for chilean mesquite one year old, and with a drip system, what is considered enough water, how many times a week. 2. should they be trimed this time of year. 3. same question for Oleander and bouginvia. At present time they are watered one hour a day every 4 days. If trimming is reccommended how much. name of a good book that covers these items for someone without a green thumb. Thanks and keep up the great work. Look forward to your answer. From jsbaumann@uswest.net Sun Jan 23 05:11:45 2000 Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:11:45 -0700 (MST) From: jsbaumann@uswest.net jsbaumann@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your area which provides similar information for the desert climate in Phoenix. I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. Could you make a recommendation in this regard? Many thanks. Sandra Baumann From kanoboy@worldnet.att.net Sun Jan 23 07:21:02 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:21:02 -0700 (MST) From: kanoboy@worldnet.att.net kanoboy@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? Does Prunus bear fruit? Is Prunus available in dwarf? Thank you so much! William From rice1@orbitworld.net Sun Jan 23 17:18:47 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 10:18:47 -0700 (MST) From: rice1@orbitworld.net rice1@orbitworld.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was told by my brother, graduate student from LSU, that I could write to just about any university and ask about acquiring some samples of their wild flowers. Would you know how I can get in touch with some one here about just that. My wife and I have been all around Kentucky and you have some beautiful wild flowers. We are in the process of mulching our whole half acre back yard for just this purpose. We live south of Houston about 45 miles in a small town of Lake Jackson. I would be very pleased in getting some of your samples of any test wild flowers to plant. Thank you and God Bless Ed & Diana Richardson, SR. From mommyof3@home.net Mon Jan 24 03:07:33 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:07:33 -0700 (MST) From: mommyof3@home.net mommyof3@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase why? They stayed like this for months. 2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? From rondolpie@aol.com Mon Jan 24 02:21:49 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 19:21:49 -0700 (MST) From: rondolpie@aol.com rondolpie@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like fertilizing schedule for citrus trees From lsveith@swlink.net Mon Jan 24 03:38:25 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:38:25 -0700 (MST) From: lsveith@swlink.net lsveith@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Gilbert. I notice a lot of nurserys have Hibiscus for sale, however, I do not see that many in landscaping. I love Hisbiscus are there specific varieties, conditions and fertilizers necessary for them in the Gilbert area. Thanks for your response. From Kathleenbey@cs.com Mon Jan 24 03:59:44 2000 Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: Kathleenbey@cs.com Kathleenbey@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time of year to trim cape honeysuckle bushes? I live in the Phoenix area and my bushes are tall but the folage is looking sparce. From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 24 16:20:18 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:20:18 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Onion Project for School Although I grow onions and garlic in my home garden in Phoenix, I am unable to give you more than an educated guess about your science project. I find it interesting that you would put the onions in afternoon sun, shading them in the morning. Here, our onions grow in the cooler season (Oct-May) and we seek full sun (8 hours is a traditional objective for the vegetable patch) during the coolest part of this season; I'm not sure how vigorous our onions would grow with only 4 to 5 hours of afternoon light through Dec-Jan-Feb. [Our sunset is currently (1/24) 5:52pm.] Although daytime temps can seem pretty reasonable in the sun this time of year, shady areas are decidedly chillier. I realize that you are closer to the equator so that only afternoon sun exposure may generate closer to an 8 hour light requirement. However, if it does not, and your onions are in a cooler environment, perhaps the warmer water is simulating a longer/warmer day for this group of onions. It would be interesting to know when your onion growing season is and what your cultivating practices are. I'm sorry I couldn't be more helpful, but wish you the best with your research project. Let us know the final results....Are you continuing to see the same response since the time you originally wrote to us on 1/7? Linda Guy Master Gardener manu10@gte.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm working on a science project for middle school and need some help. I planted some green onions in pots. We cut tops off of matured oninos and used their stocks. Then I watered 3 pots daily with 50 degree water and 3 with 70 degree water and 3 with 107 degree water. I thought that the 70 degree water would do the best but the 107 degree water grew faster and taller. Why would this happen. I live in Hawaii and the plants were in morning shade and afternoon sun. I watered in the early evenings. does something happen to the water or did we just make the climate more perfect for the onions with the hot water. I hope that you have the time for a answer to this emial. Mahalo > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 24 16:26:01 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:26:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves; Identifying Fig Varieties Hello again Paul, I looked at the Sunset Western Garden Book for a little assistance (pp 295-6). It suggests you could tell the different fig varieties by the color of the fruit. Brown Turkey (also known as San Piero or Black Spanish in other areas) has brownish/purple fruit. Mission (or Black Mission) has purple/black fruit. The latter is a much larger tree, but of course, you'll have to let yours grow a bit more to use that particular test! Linda Guy Master Gardener "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > Thanks, I sure appreciate your help. Do you know how I can tell if my tree > is a turkey or a mission? thx > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 11:01 AM > To: Wenter, Paul - SBS > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > Paul, > > While Mission does fairly well in this elevation, Brown > Turkey is only a > moderate performer, preferring the 2000 - 3000 foot > elevations, > according to > our publication MC23 Home Grown Figs. This is the month for > any annual > pruning > you might care to do; our pub has suggestions for handling > trees about > your > size to encourage low branching and to select key limbs > which will > eventually > be the core of the canopy. > > Figs normally bear two crops, first in June on the old wood > and later in > the > summer through October on the new wood. They are extremely > tolerant of > neglect: > I prune my next door neighbor's figs that are half in my > yard. He never > waters > them (nor do I since that portion of my xeriscaped yard is > essentially > without > irrigated material), nor are they ever fertilized; they are > prolific > producers > nonetheless, although this may not last forever. In the > summer, we > suggest > irrigating mature trees ever two weeks or so. One third that > amount is > considered adequate in the winter. Be careful not to > overwater your > tree, > which you sound at risk for at this time. They are > susceptible to Texas > Root > Rot. > > Fertilizer is suggested in January and May: 2 cupfuls each > time in the > second > year, adding one total additional cup per year until year 5 > when you can > treat > this as a mature tree with different fertilization > standards. > > I really recommend the publication referenced above which > you can get by > sending $1 to (or get it for free if you can swing by the > office at): > > Home Horticulture Publications > University of Arizona Cooperative Extension > 4341 E. Broadway Road > Phoenix, AZ 85040 > > Good luck! > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > "Wenter, Paul - SBS" wrote: > > > It's a fruit tree. Planted from a 2 gal container. It's > about 4'9" tall > > and 1" diameter. It said mission fig on one part of the > tree and brown > > turkey fig on another part of the tree. > > > > thx > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Linda A. Guy > [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > > Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 10:12 > AM > > To: pwenter@chw.edu > > Cc: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > > Subject: Fig Tree Losing Leaves > > > > Is this fig a fruit tree (which is > deciduous and would be > > virtually leafless now) or an ornamental tree? Can you > provide the variety? > > > > Linda Guy > > > > pwenter@chw.edu wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > I planted a small fig tree last July. > It seemed to be > > doing well in the fall with significant growth (no growth > in the Summer). > > It's losing most of its leaves this winter; they seem to > dry up green as if > > the died from the cold. I have been covering the tree > when it gets cold at > > night, but I havn't rapped the trunk as I did with my > citrus trees. It's > > getting water every 2 - 3 weeks from four 1gph drip lines > for 198 minutes > > space evenly about 18 inches from the trunk. > > > Is this okay? Am I doing something > wrong? thx. > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 24 16:32:17 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:32:17 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] male Persimmon trees Hi Judy, I can't answer your question but, since it has been around for a while and I don't believe any others of my colleagues here in Arizona were able to answer either, I'd like to suggest that your friend locate the Master Gardeners in his own geographic location. They can be contacted via his county's Cooperative Extension Office, which will be in their phone directory. These folks will surely be able to get him the assistance he needs. Linda Guy Master Gardener Judy.Hall@asu.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a friend in Tulsa, Oklahoma who has several male Persimmon trees in his > back yard, southern exposure. The branches are being neatly cut off at the > bases by, he thinks, either net worms or web worms. He sprays with some kind > of pesticide periodically but the problem persists. I don't know what his > watering or fertilizing practices are. Is there anything he can > do to get rid of this problem for good? > Thx, > Judy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 24 16:39:47 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:39:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] ROSE TREES Did you notice last week's (Wednesday's) gardening columns in the Republic? Free pruning demos are being held Saturdays in January at the Extension Office from 8 to noon. Call Floyd Evans at 602/944-2198. Also the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society will have another free pruning demo from 9 to 10 am on Saturday 1/29. This is at the Mesa Community College garden; call Carol for more info at 480/895-7793. The column also recommended Hallie Beck's gook Roses in a Desert Garden. Have fun with those shears! Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > HERE IT IS JAN AND MY ROSES ARE BLOOMING BEAUTIFULLY. I HATE > TO CUT THEM BACK. WHAT SHOULD I DO? THANKS. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon Jan 24 16:51:47 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:51:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Acacia & Lysiloma Linda, Unlike deciduous fruit trees which are pruned during dormancy, we generally wait for native trees to emerge from the cool/winter season dormancy and start sprouting a bit before doing pruning. Recently, Mary Irish [formerly at Desert Botanical Gardens] wrote the following in response to a similar question on mesquite. It applies to your trees, which are also leguminous. "The cool part of the year is very inadvisable time to prune all desert legume trees, such as mesquite. They appear to have great limb die back and may be more susceptible to other infections when pruned at this time. The optimal time to prune them is when it is hot, from about April on. However, you should be aware that pruning later in the summer, from about July onwards, may also present a different kind of problem. The natural response to pruning in all trees is a stimulation of the production of new shoot growth. But this response can be overwhelming, particularly for mesquites when they are pruned too late in the hot weather. Consequently, you end up with twice the problem you had in the first place. So, timing is everything, but then isn't it always." Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener lm1127@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best time of year to prune these trees? My Acacia is a small > multi trunk tree (3 1/2- 4 yrs.old) I have occasionally pruned lower > branches and it looks pretty good. Now it looks like it's ready to have > several more removed, but I don't want to do it the wrong time of year. > I also have 2 Lysilomas. The one gets the puff balls followed by the > pods, but the other one doesn't. They are both 3 1/2 - 4 yrs. old. Could > it be the one is a different tree? Also , I have the same pruning > question for these trees. > Thanks for any advice. > > Linda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com Mon Jan 24 15:32:30 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:32:30 -0700 (MST) From: cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com cindyselvaggio@earthlink.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Finally, a book about DESERT gardening. Thank you thank you thank you! After reading your book, I still though am unsure what location you would most recommend we start our garden. We live in PHX and I'm unsure which exposure is the best. Could you please help? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jan 24 21:41:08 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:41:08 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: Arizona Tree Seedling Program Arizona also has a program that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings. The saplings are actually grown back east and shipped here :-) The Arizona Tree Seedling Program Greenwood Nursery P. O. Box 686 McMinnville, Tenn. 37111 1-800-426-0958 for orders Typical costs are about $35 per 50 seedlings. All are well suited for our climates. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2000 22:11:41 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: "Jake Nash" (by way of Lucy Bradley ) Subject: [AG] Tree Question Hi, Do you know if there is a program in Arizona that allows landowners to purchase tree saplings for replanting on their land? I spent some time in Indiana, and the State Nursery there provided small potted trees to landowners once each year, at a nominal charge, for planting windbreaks, erosion prevention and fruit groves. I've been surfing around the net, but I don't seem to be able to find any information on a project like this in Arizona. I have 5 acres in northern Pinal County (irrigated), and I'm interested in planting some trees (not sure what variety yet) on both sides of a 300+ foot roadway coming onto my land. I'd appreciate any information you can provide. Sincerely, Jake Nash ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jan 24 22:00:11 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 22:00:11 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] re: publications on AZ plants One excellent source for landscaping with native plants is: Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke University of Texas Press ISBN 0-292-75147-8 (about $25) Arizona Native Plant Society (ANPS) also publishes a series of booklets. Booklets cover various topics such as trees and wildflowers. Cost is $2 per booklet - great color pictures. Many nurseries carry them or you can write to them: ANPS P. O. Box 41206 Sun Station Tucson, Arizona 85717 Linda Drew, Pima County Master Gardener ============================================= Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:11:45 -0700 (MST) From: jsbaumann@uswest.net To: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your area which provides similar information for the desert climate in Phoenix. I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. Could you make a recommendation in this regard? Many thanks. Sandra Baumann ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From lazyaz777@juno.com Mon Jan 24 21:20:08 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 14:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: lazyaz777@juno.com lazyaz777@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend an arborist, or how can I best go about getting a good qualified but not overly expensive arborist to check my trees. Thanks. Esther From greygoat@aol.com Mon Jan 24 20:26:15 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:26:15 -0700 (MST) From: greygoat@aol.com greygoat@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two Italian cypress trees that are being engulfed by cocoons on both the branches and the needles. The cocoons spread from the bottom to the top of the trees. Any ideas what this might be and how to get rid of it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 24 22:25:59 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:25:59 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Cape Honeysuckle Kathleen, Since Cape Honeysuckle grows quite rapidly it is often necessary to prune throughout the year. It may be tall and spindly because it has too much shade. Pruning two or three times a year will cause it to become bushier. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jan 24 22:45:12 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:45:12 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Arborist Listing Esther, The following website is supposed to have an arborists listing but when I just tried I couldn't bring it up. If you do not have any luck either, call the U. of A. Extension at 602 470 8086 for a phoenix listing. http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html%3e Good luck. Rod From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Jan 24 13:25:40 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:25:40 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: Cherries Cherry trees do not produce in the Sonoran desert. Plums do, particularly Santa Rosa. On Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:21:02 -0700 (MST) kanoboy@worldnet.att.net writes: >arid_gardener >Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? >What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? >Does Prunus bear fruit? >Is Prunus available in dwarf? > >Thank you so much! >William > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From dgkazmer@juno.com Mon Jan 24 13:14:56 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:14:56 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Winter water In the winter, my timer is set to water once a week because that is the least often that it will set. In the summer my timer is still set to water once a week but I increase the length of time it waters. The goal is to get the roots thoroughly wet and then allow those roots to dry between watering so fungus won't become a problem. A few plants have the noozle turned off or way down so they don't get much water in the winter............. bougainvillea and oleander are quite dormant in the winter. Most of the native plants don't need water in winter. It has been very dry this winter and so I've watered almost every plant in my front yard that is not on the irrigation system on this past weekend. The reason I did this is that the ribs on my saguaro are very deep and narrow, indicating low water storage and most of the leaves have fallen off my sage. These plants will be looking much better in a couple of weeks and won't be watered again for at least a month even if we don't get rain. On Sat, 22 Jan 2000 18:01:50 -0700 (MST) ybear551@cs.com writes: >arid_gardener >1. for chilean mesquite one year old, and with a drip system, what is >considered enough water, how many times a week. >2. should they be trimed this time of year. >3. same question for Oleander and bouginvia. > >At present time they are watered one hour a day every 4 days. > >If trimming is reccommended how much. > >name of a good book that covers these items for someone without a >green thumb. > >Thanks and keep up the great work. > >Look forward to your answer. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jfaser@mailcity.com Tue Jan 25 06:56:56 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 23:56:56 -0700 (MST) From: jfaser@mailcity.com jfaser@mailcity.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I moved to the Valley from the Midwest last year and would like to have my garden soil tested to see if it's suitable for growing vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.). Do you offer soil testing? From rondolpie@aol.com Tue Jan 25 01:15:34 2000 Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:15:34 -0700 (MST) From: rondolpie@aol.com rondolpie@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When do you fertilize citrus trees? Also how much fertilizer should you use and what type of fertilizer. From zbinternational@hotmail.com Tue Jan 25 16:09:26 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 09:09:26 -0700 (MST) From: zbinternational@hotmail.com zbinternational@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently purchased an arizona black walnnut tree. I am wondering how well it grows in Phoenix, what I need to do to enhance its survival and how big the tree will grow in this climate. Where I live there are many pecan trees that do quite well but no walnut trees. The pecan trees grow moderately fast ,35 feet in 15 years, and I am wondering if walnut trees would grow as fast. Also, I would like to know if walnut is self pollinating or do I need to plant two trees? Thank you. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 18:58:22 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 11:58:22 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Reference Works for Landscaping in Low Desert Sandra, In addition to the previous reference, you could consider a wonderful cd-rom published by the University of Arizona (specify IBM or Macintosh). Check it out on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/cd.htm This is an interactive software that lets you browse the plant encyclopedia based on your answers to a variety of questions about traits desired, exposure, etc. Linda Guy Master Gardener jsbaumann@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We are moving to Phoenix this summer and currently enjoy gardening in > Boulder, Colorado. The Colorado Nursery Association publishes a small $4 > booklet which gives pictures and brief descriptions of annuals, > perennials, trees and shrubs that are hardy for our climate. > > I am wondering if there is a comparable publication available in your > area which provides similar information for the desert climate in > Phoenix. > > I have researched and purchased a number of books about desert gardening > but have not found anything comparable to the CNA reference booklet. > Could you make a recommendation in this regard? > > Many thanks. Sandra Baumann > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:18:57 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:18:57 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Cherry and Plum Varieties for Arizona Hi William, Prunus is the first part of a plant's scientific name, whereas Rosaceae is the broader family within which the plant is grouped. Prunus can refer to any stone fruit tree (almond, apricot, cherry, peach, plum, prune, etc.) or classes of ornamental trees (laurels, flowering cherries or plums,etc.). You will need more than just the term prunus to select plant material for your yard. You might want to check out our Master Gardener Manual section on fruit tree varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties If you want fruiting trees and are only planting one specimen, make sure to select a tree that has self-pollination capabilities. Another good reference work is the Sunset Garden Book, page 439 for ornamentals, or look under the common name (plum, cherry, etc.) for information on fruiting trees. Many of these trees have dwarf varieties, but its hard to recommend until we know more specifically what you are seeking. Linda Guy Master Gardener kanoboy@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Do all cherry trees blossom (flower)? > What is the difference between Rosaceae and Prunus? > Does Prunus bear fruit? > Is Prunus available in dwarf? > > Thank you so much! > William > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:29:54 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:29:54 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing Citrus Our publication 8670 Fertilizing Citrus Trees in Arizona has a good discussion of citrus needs for nitrogen and other nutrients Most often people will purchase readily available fertilizers specifically designed for citrus. Amount depends on the age of the trees; 5 years and older generally get 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen (calculated by multiplying the percentage of nitrogen times the weight of the fertilizer purchased) per year. One half is applied late winter (February) and the rest in 3 to 6 applications through June. Many citrus fertilizers will explain application on the package. You can check out this publication and others on citrus in your public library's reference section (Home Horticulture Publications from the Cooperative Extension) or you can send $1 to Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener rondolpie@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > When do you fertilize citrus trees? Also how much fertilizer should you use and what type of fertilizer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:33:11 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:33:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Soil Testing Services This information is provided in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener jfaser@mailcity.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I moved to the Valley from the Midwest last year and would like to have my garden soil tested to see if it's suitable for growing vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, etc.). Do you offer soil testing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:39:33 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:39:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] frost protection The need for frost protection depends on plants' susceptibility and location in the landscape. I would not cover vegetables that are normally cold weather crops (broccoli, cabbage, etc.) or other adapted plants. Plants that are on a northern exposure and may get no sun during winter months and are frost tender will need coverings. Similar plants against a south wall which get ample sun and ambient heat post-sunset may never have the need until freezing temps are actually reached. Check out our frost protection publication online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1002.pdf It will help you analyze any number of situations you may be facing. Linda Guy Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > this time of year i cover my plants every night. do i really need to if i > know the temp is not going to get below 40 degrees? does it actually need > to freeze (32 degrees) for damage to occur or does it just need to be > cold? would really appreciate your help. r2beshon@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:46:33 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:46:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bud Rot in Queen Palms I only know the condition as bud rot...and queen palms certainly are susceptible. Rather than repeat what is already available online, check out our excellent publication on palms, including disease diagnosis and treatment at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf If you think you have it, time is of the essence in treatment. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener tyjas@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > With the so many problems with queen palms, how do you diagnose pink bud rot? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue Jan 25 19:59:12 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 12:59:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Compost Bins Many of the municipal solid waste management departments distribute for free or a nominal fee reconditioned trash bins that have the bottoms removed and holes punched in the sides of the containers for air circulation. It's been so long since I got mine that I can only assume it was the city of Phoenix, which is where I live. They may be agreeable to sell it to a Tempe resident for a fee. Chandler also did this; the old PN was 786-2863. SRP's Environmental Services area (236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one: they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting efforts, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener jaresteg@nccj.org wrote: > arid_gardener > Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dmkerr@dancris.com Wed Jan 26 01:26:50 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 18:26:50 -0700 From: Kerr Family dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Compost Bins I got my composter three months ago, and it's the best $5.00 I ever spent. It is a great way to deal with our infertile soil. I went to the Skunk Creek landfill, which is the largest in Phoenix. You stop at the weigh station and ask for a composter and pay for it there. I made a seive out of lath and 2 x 4s with one end elevated by boards and have produced many bushels of stuff. We'll see how my garden does this year. We save our vegetable waste from the kitchen and chop up stuff from the yard, like bird of paradise and rose prunings with the lawnmower. Oh, they sell to anyone, don't even ask where you live. ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2000 12:59 PM Subject: [AG] Compost Bins > arid_gardener > Many of the municipal solid waste management departments distribute for free or a nominal fee > reconditioned trash bins that have the bottoms removed and holes punched in the sides of the > containers for air circulation. It's been so long since I got mine that I can only assume it > was the city of Phoenix, which is where I live. They may be agreeable to sell it to a Tempe > resident for a fee. Chandler also did this; the old PN was 786-2863. > > SRP's Environmental Services area (236-2308) used to put out a Home Composting Wheel that > talked about various ingredients and compost recipes. Call and see if they'd send you one: > they might have a more current list on the municipalities that support home composting > efforts, too. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > jaresteg@nccj.org wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > Where can I get a free or inexpensive compost bin? I live in northern Tempe. Thank you! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From Antiquefreek@aol.com Wed Jan 26 05:27:37 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 00:27:37 EST From: Antiquefreek@aol.com Antiquefreek@aol.com Subject: [AG] Request for tree service. I just used Capital Tree Service in Phoenix he did good work and was 40% less than another estimate I received. He is a certified arborist. His card had a web site too: WWW.capitaltree.com From dgkazmer@juno.com Tue Jan 25 11:54:02 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 04:54:02 -0700 From: Dawn G Kazmer dgkazmer@juno.com Subject: [AG] Re: veggie seedlings One of my friends at my community garden taught me to put carrot seeds 1 1/2 inch apart on a wet paper towel spread on a black garbage bag. Then roll it up and place on top of the refrigerator. Check daily, after the first week, and when sprouted, carefully unroll it on prepared soil, then cover with "Super Soil" (an enriched steam sterilized product), vermiculite or sand. It beats thinning since this can be done while sitting in a comfortable chair watching a movie. Of course you leave the paper towel but not the plastic bag. Desert soils need nitrogen. I use ammonium phosphate when I prepare each bed: a couple of 1 pound coffee cans per 4 by 20 bed. This needs to be placed near plant roots but never touching roots of transplants. In cool weather this fertilizer won't be available to the plants as quick as ammonium nitrate...... so you might want to use ammonium nitrate or "Miracle Grow" type fertilizer to feed your seedlings and help them along, especially if your soil has not been gardened in before. Be careful since young plants are easily burned. Rabbits, mice, birds & bugs love sprouts so you'll need to protect them................. I've never had to do that before moving to the desert and it has been a major surprise but really is not as much trouble as the constant weeding in Ohio was. On Sun, 23 Jan 2000 20:07:33 -0700 (MST) mommyof3@home.net writes: >arid_gardener >1. I planted various greens in a pretty decent quantity. Very litte >came up and when they did they never got past the second leaf phase >why? They stayed like this for months. > >2. I planted carrots four times. Can't get them to germinate?? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From jjewett@bigplanet.com Wed Jan 26 03:07:06 2000 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 20:07:06 -0700 (MST) From: jjewett@bigplanet.com jjewett@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you send me some links, or information about composting. I have an idea how the process works, but not the details. I love to garden, and am frustrated by the soil around my house. Any ideas on how I can improve the situation? From cartia@sedona.net Wed Jan 26 15:31:35 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:31:35 -0700 (MST) From: cartia@sedona.net cartia@sedona.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for some advise on raspberries. My grandfather has a large bed of plants in Prescott and has never gotton a single berry. He bought the plants from a local nusery and has consulted them several times to no avail. They get plenty of water, fertilizer and sun. The plants are very healthy and he gets an abundance of blooms. The berries seem to start to develop, but then appear to dry out. The rest of the stalk continues to look great. He is so frustrated. Any ideas? We have our own plants in the Verde Valley and get lots of berries with little effort. From rgell45226@aol.com Wed Jan 26 16:12:51 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:12:51 -0700 (MST) From: rgell45226@aol.com rgell45226@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If bougainvilla have been subject to cold weather and the majority of the leaves have fallen off, should I trim the dead leafless branches or let it go until it grows back? From ronolive@usa.net Wed Jan 26 16:29:26 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:29:26 -0700 (MST) From: ronolive@usa.net ronolive@usa.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lime tree that was not taken care of for years until we bought the house. I have taken care of it since then and it bore limes for the first time this year. A month ago they all turned yellow and fell off the tree with little to no green color. Now there is a new small crop on the tree. I am afraid they will turn yellow and prematurely fall off again. I was watering every 7 days. Now I am watering every 14 days for thirty minutes. It takes about 4 hours for the water to fully absorb into the ground from the birm around the tree. What am I doing wrong? From donleslieh@home.com Wed Jan 26 17:11:36 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:11:36 -0700 (MST) From: donleslieh@home.com donleslieh@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hibiscus leaves are small and turning yellow, no blooms, look very week. planted in Aug.99. Is this normal/should I fertilize? From papagiorgio@uswest.net Wed Jan 26 20:53:26 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 13:53:26 -0700 (MST) From: papagiorgio@uswest.net papagiorgio@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there any way to stop a carob tree from getting pods? From tsozuna@goodnet.com Wed Jan 26 21:26:26 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 14:26:26 -0700 (MST) From: tsozuna@goodnet.com tsozuna@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The African Sumacs in our development are blossoming now (there is yellow pollen every- where). I am wondering if there is anything that we can spray on them to stop them from blooming (like they do for olive trees). My allergies are terrible during this time and I am unable to be outside for any extended time. Thank you! From devaleria@earthlink.net Wed Jan 26 22:27:09 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:27:09 -0700 (MST) From: devaleria@earthlink.net devaleria@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 14 rosebushes at my new home. I know very little about growing roses and am currently in learning mode. Their is a bush on the east side of my house with medium sized dark red roses. They are abundant but have dark spots on the edges of the petals; and what looks like a withering (even on the buds). The bushes next to it are fine. Does anyone know what the problem is and what can be done about it? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 27 02:53:12 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 19:53:12 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Bougainvilla For any frost sensitive plant, including your bougainvilla, we recommend waiting until all risk of frost damage has passed (for Phoenix metro it's mid-March on average). Then you can generally tell what is truly dead wood from that which is beginning to sprout. Linda Guy Master Gardener rgell45226@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > If bougainvilla have been subject to cold weather and the majority of the leaves have fallen off, should I trim the dead leafless branches or let it go until it grows back? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Jan 27 03:09:48 2000 Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:09:48 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Garden Location/Exposure I'll try to give you some general guidance, which is the best I can do not knowing what you are trying to plant. Most