From 99fathead@home.com Fri, 30 Jun 2000 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) From: 99fathead@home.com 99fathead@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large branch from a weeping willow tree. I was told that if I dig a hole double the size of the branch diameter hence "stick it in the ground, it will grow. Is this true? Please advise. Thank you, Jen. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:38:21 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:38:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Insects on Hibiscus The American Hibiscus Society has a very nice web page. You can visit it at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ When you get to their home page, if you look to your left, about three categories down you will a reference to Fertilizer, Insecticide and Pruning. You will find information on the recommended controls for insect pests. I really can't say what type of insect is on your hibiscus. If you want to know, you can try to capture a few and place them in a container, take them to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. There is a Friday morning diagnostics group that meets each week. Be sure to include your name, phone number and pertinent information about the problem. They will then contact you. You can also try visiting a satelite office near you. A list of our offices is found on the "Ask a Gardening Question" page of our website. To view the list, go to http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener stevek@heraeusmtd.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Small black bugs keep getting on a Hibiscus bush. What are they and what can control them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:49:30 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:49:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Liquid Sulfur for Vineyard Frank: While I can not help you in your search for the supplier of liquid sulfur, I did locate a website that may be of help to you if you do not hear from another gardener on this listserve. You may be able to get assistance from http://www.grapetalk.com/. Sue Bass Master Gardener fdpmm@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > From: F.Don Manthe > To: > Subject: sulfur spray > Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:00 PM > > I need to know where I can obtain a liquid suspension of sulfur for spray > material on grapes . In the past I have used Uniflow Sulfur made by > Leffingwell with six pounds of sulfur per gallon. At this time I am unable > to find this product in the Phoenix Area but would like to find out who > sells this or similar material that I can use on in vineyard. > > Any information about this product would be appreciated > > THANK YOU !! > Frank D Manthe > Chateau Manthe fdpmm@goodnet.com > 317 E Phoenix St > Payson AZ 85541 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 18:16:04 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 18:16:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Landscaping assistance While we do not provide a free landscaping service, we can provide you with lots of useful information in making your landscape decisions. If you haven't visited our website, I would suggest that you take a little tour. You can begin at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Our "Timely Tips" section provides homeowners with information organized month-by-month, including monthly "To-Do's", "Don'ts" and frequently asked questions. Be sure to visit our Events page. There are many classes coming up that are geared to gardeners who are new to the valley or new to gardening. By visiting our Publications section, or by going straight there via: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You will find information that addresses nearly every question including turf, tree options, ornamentals. Several publications are available to view on line. The others can be ordered and the information on how to do that is included at this site. Some library branches also have a binder with many of these publications. Another excellent place to start is by scrolling down on that home page to "Recommended Reading". From there you can choose many categories, including one called Landscape Design, Installation and Management. You will find a great list of books that are excellent on this topic. The section entitled "Links" provides other valuable resources. What state did you move from? Sue Bass Master Gardener monthly ambervann2@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently relocated to Arizona and purchased a new home in Anthem. In my previous city, the extension office provided landscaping services free of charge for home owners. Do you know if the city of Phoenix offers any services such as this? Any kind of service where someone will come out and help you determine which plants/trees/sod to plant and then assist in the landscaping? Thank you for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NatalieWS@aol.com Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:46:29 EDT Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:46:29 EDT From: NatalieWS@aol.com NatalieWS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? Hi, I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:57:17 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:57:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? We have a publication available - publication no. MC59 - Backyard Grapes available. You can find information on ordering this publication at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. Some of the library branches also have a binder containing the publications so its worth a check there, if the library branch near you has it you can make a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener NatalieWS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > > Hi, > I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. > Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:24 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Growing Sugar Cane and Loquats I'd like to refer you to the California Rare Fruit Growers (AZ Chapter) for an answer here. I know that they can give you information on the loquats. They may even have info on the sugar cane. The following page contains information on how to contact them with our question: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Good Luck! Sue Bass susras@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Have sugar cane and it is growing well. Developing large canes and is having a hard time staying upright. When do I harvest? Forgot to ask that when I got it. > > Also, do loquats do well here, and under what conditions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pattiannn@mindspring.com Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:20:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:20:16 -0700 (MST) From: pattiannn@mindspring.com pattiannn@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a silk oak in my backyard that oozes what looks like sap during the spring. The silk oak I have in the front yard does not do this. Other than the sap, the silk oak in the back seems healthy and has been growing. Is this something I should be worried about? From number1@netcom.ca Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:23:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:23:23 -0700 (MST) From: number1@netcom.ca number1@netcom.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page need to know the care for a calamandin "orange tree" being kept in the house From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:02:34 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:02:34 -0700 From: Pauline Marx PlantPerson@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page,calamandin orange Calamandin orange may produce white fragrant flowers and small bitter oranges nearly all year round . Cultivation is straight forward. The basic requirements are good drainage, freedom from drafts, moderate watering all year round, fertilization all year round but less in winter, , cool but not cold conditions in winter. Summer should be spent out of doors. Two tips- pollinate the flowers by dabbing with cotton balls and apply a fertilizer with magnesium if the leaves yellow. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona From ClaireASP@aol.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:29:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:29:50 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi there.I have two questions. First, I know that you are not suppose to water Bouganvilla very often; but how often should you actually do it? Please advise for both summer and winter.Secondly, I have several Jacaranda trees. They are sprouting new branches down the lower part of the tree trunk. Should I cut those off? Thanks for your time and help. I read your questions and answers everyday, and have learned alot from your web site. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:36:39 EDT Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:36:39 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Water sprouts on a Jacaranda Claire, as soon as you see water sprouts growing from the trunk of your Jacaranda tree you should cut them off. If your Bougainvillea is established ( in the ground for one year ), then summer watering should be every 3 to 4 weeks. For winter watering at least double the frequency of summer watering. Good luck. Rod From mhills_sro@msn.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:53:14 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:53:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this information will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but would rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1@email.msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer but will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, what will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall to have a winter lawn. >Thanks for your response. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:44:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:44:15 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:45:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:45:06 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. Sincerely, Bernice From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:13:45 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:13:45 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Wisteria - Hardenbergia I would suggest planting the Australian wisteria, called hardenbergia, which is available in most nurseries and home centers in the spring (and maybe fall). It is an evergreen so it doesn't make a mess and has lovely violet blue flowers in the spring. It's really beautiful when it flowers. I started mine from a 1 gallon pot 1-1/2 years ago and it now covers a whole corner and much of the walls of my northwest wall. I have it on my drip system with many of the shrubs and it just keep growing and growing. I'm really amazed how this plant does so well in the heat - stays green year-round and then has those periodic wonderful flowers. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Dodty5@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 3:56 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Wisteria arid_gardener Does anyone know if we can grow Wisteria in the Phoenix area? If so where can one buy the appropriate type? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:16:19 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:16:19 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers - Book There's a good book by Eric A Johnson in his Western Garden series. It's called "How to Grow the Wildflowers - When and How to Plant Over 180 Native and Adapted Varieties". You can get it from Amazon.com Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 8:35 PM To: capt61@mail.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers arid_gardener You can check out our list of publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers My favorite wildflower catalog, which I look at as much as a reference work, is Wildseed Farms www.wildseedfarms.com Locally, we used to have in Tempe a company called Wild Seed [PN 276-3536] but I haven't been in contact with them for a while. Native Seed Search in Tucson, has a few pages on wildflowers in its catalog www.azstarnet.com/~nss/index.html In general, we plant wildflower seeds in the fall/early winter in the low desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener capt61@mail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello. Thank you for this service.Is there anyone or site to ask about the propigation of Wild flowers? capt61@mail.com cares :] > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From b737jet@aol.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:58:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:58:16 -0700 (MST) From: b737jet@aol.com b737jet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello: Have an 6 yr old Austrailian Willow that is sick. The tree has 4 main limbs coming from its main trunk. One of these limbs seems to be dying. Of the branches coming from this limb, each are dying one at a time. Its leaves turn brown and fall off. This started late summer last year. The tree is in a raised bed on the NE corner of the yard along side another Austrailin Willow. It does get full sun all day. It had a bark mulch around it which has been removed. It is on a drip system with 3 emitters at 2 gal/hr each and runs for 2 hrs twice a week. Upon removing the bark mulch from around the tree, the soil around it did not seem to be moist as if I was over watering. The limb's bark seems to be pulling away, I can easily remove it to expose more of the limb. The limb also appears to have deep cracks in it. The limb & leaves appear to be very dry. The tree has not recieved any feedings last summer or this year. Thanks in advance for any help you could give us in this matter. You can contact us at b737jet@aol.com or at these telephone numbers: home: 480-759-0261 after 3pm work:602-221-7872 - wife Jackie 7am-4pm Larry Larsen From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:33:37 EDT Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:33:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Australian Willow dying Larry, The first thing that you need to correct is the irrigation. You need to give the tree more water on a less frequent basis,ie replace the 2 gallon drippers with adjustable ones located at the dripline and run your system for 6 hours every two weeks in the summer. By applying more water you encourage the roots to go deeper, and flush the salt out of the root zone. I would also recommend replacing the mulch around the tree, it will help to conserve moisture, keep the roots cooler and provide a constsnt source of humas. The lack of adequate moisture has caused the tree to become stressed, and when the tree is stressed it becomes susceptable to all kind of insects and diseases. The Master Gardener Manual which is on line has an excellent chapter on irrigation which you can find at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Gojic@home.net Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:03:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: Gojic@home.net Gojic@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 03 Jul 2000 18:07:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 18:07:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale You can view an on-line information sheet on pearl scale at the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Unfortunately, there is no effective way to eliminate these pests from lawns at this time. You can view further information on Pearl Scale )which may have some suggestions you can try) in our archives. One particular past note I located is at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0159.html To look up a subject in our archives, go to: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in the subject you are looking for. Past correspondence on this subject will be listed there. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Gojic@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:32:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:32:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page - lawns Dear Earle - now that I know you are here in the Valley of the Sun, lawn ideas and suggestions are fairly easy. Under full sun conditions, some sort of bermudagrass is the turf of choice here in the Desert Southwest. Generally, bermudas need a minimum of about 15 inches of annual moisture to survive and grow fairly well - more water means more growth and a lot thicker, healthier growth - turf experts and researchers recommend upwards of 40 inches per year for the healthiest bermuda turf.. Since we only get about 7 inches of annual moisture, and since it is not evenly spread out over the year, your bermuda lawn will most likely die or drastically thin out during your summer of no watering. A deep watering regime in the spring will mean your bermuda will be a lot healthier going into the summer - maybe even give it a couple of very deep water applications in March and April to give a good moisture bse several feet down where the deep-rooted bermuda can still retrieve it during the summer. This could mean more live bermuda the following fall, when you return to Mesa. As you only want grass during the winter when you are here, this should not effect you very much. Winter ryegrass overseeding is generally recommended after October 15th as daytime temperatures drop into the low 90's and lower. Usually this overseeding is applied into a dormant bermudagrass base, so that the dormant bermuda provides a mat or strong base for the ryegrass to root into and grow on top of. With your bermuda base dead or very thin from no summer watering, you will be planting your ryegrass into bare soil. This works fairly well, but with no dormant bermuda base, the ryegrass may wear out under high traffic during the winter growing season. Rake or till the soil surface to create a good seed bed and plant the ryegrass seed about 1/2 inch deep - your local garden center will have detailed seeding and care instructions in time for your fall seed planting. You should be fine though. BE VERY SURE that the ryegrass seed you buy for planting this winter says "Perennial Ryegrass seed" somewhere on the label - lots and lots of different brands and varieties and mixtures, but be sure it says perennial as this provides a far superior winter turf surface. DO NOT plant anything that says "Annual Ryegrass" as this is a light green, fast tall growing and very wet mowing, messy grass for winter. Perennial ryegrass seed is a little more expensive than annual ryegrass seed, but the added cost is very worth it - much much better winter turf, more wear and tear tolerant, much darker green, shorter growing so less mowing and it mows "dry" without all the slimey green wet clippings that can stain clothes, shoes, walkways, etc. Perennial ryegrass as a winter turf does not need to be mowed nearly as often as annual ryegrass does. Plant about 8-10 pounds of perennial ryegrass seed per 1,000 square feet sometime between October 15 and September 15 - earlier plantings suffer from the late summer heat, while later plantings have a harder time establishing due to the cooling soil temperatures. DO NOT plant any more than the recommended 10 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet - a too heavy seeding rate will cause disease problems and weak, overcrowded ryegrass plants that you will not be happy with. The ryegrass will start to fade out in sunny areas the following spring as temperatures get over mid-90's. Ryegrass may even be gone by the time you depart for your summer home. Some plants may stick around in shaded areas until they run out of water while you are gone for the summer - ryegrass is not at all tolerant of drought. You would need to replant the ryegrass each winter - perennial ryegrass is a year round grass in cooler climate areas (probably wherever you are from and returning to as a summer home) - but in our hot summer, the ryegrass only lives for one season. Hope this has helped. With our temperature extremes from below freezing in winter to 120 degrees plus in summer, we are a bit limited on our grass choices here. BUT, a combination of a bermuda for summer with a ryegrass for summer works out extremely well. Under more normal circumstances, the summer bermuda is a permanent turfgrass - returning and regrowing each year. Good Luck, mike hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener Research Agronomist, Seed Research - Arizona *********************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1 To: Mike Hills Date: Monday, July 03, 2000 12:45 PM Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Thanks for your reply Mike. You are correct; the home is in Mesa > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mike Hills" >To: ; >Cc: "Linda A. Guy" >Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:53 PM >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this >information >> will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are >> here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but >would >> rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all >> over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - >> Maricopa County Master Gardener >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: earleburd1@email.msn.com >> To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM >> Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> >> >> >arid_gardener >> >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer >but >> will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, >what >> will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall >> to have a winter lawn. >> >Thanks for your response. >> > >> > >> > >> >_______________________________________________ >> >Arid_gardener mailing list >> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> >Archives - >> > >> > >> > > > From J_chitwood@email.msn.com Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:20:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:20:18 -0700 (MST) From: J_chitwood@email.msn.com J_chitwood@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:11:37 EDT Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:11:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Silk Oak oozing sap Patti, When a tree grown in the low desert oozes sap, it is an indication that the tree is under stress, and many times that stress is caused by improper irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From PatFlynn@prodigy.net Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:07:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:07:24 -0700 (MST) From: PatFlynn@prodigy.net PatFlynn@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. Thanks, Pat From AzTeacher8@aol.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) From: AzTeacher8@aol.com AzTeacher8@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From candscamp@aol.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 09:47:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 09:47:27 -0700 (MST) From: candscamp@aol.com candscamp@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks From devans@dot.state.az.us Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:05:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:05:53 -0700 (MST) From: devans@dot.state.az.us devans@dot.state.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Juniperus scopulorum in a landscape in Holbrook with tops dying and trees turning brownish. They're recieving adequate water twice weekly as indicated by other healthy trees within close proximity. pH of soil is >8, boron content is between 0.4 and 2.0ppm, and Na content is between 5 and 8.6ppm. We were wondering if you could help. From millero@azcentral.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:30:42 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:30:42 -0700 From: Olin millero@azcentral.com Subject: [AG] Re: Saving Melon Seeds As you probably know, if the parent melons are hybrids, their seeds may not produce melons like the parents. Also, cantaloupes and melons crosspollinate and different ypes should be isolated from each other if you want to save. seed. To clean, rub the seeds between the hands to loosen the pulp,. the rinse with water several times in a pan pouring off the debris and floater seeds each time. When the seeds are appear clean, apply cold water under pressure to remove any residual sugar, dry in a plate or saucer. then store in a cool place like the refrigerator. It sometimes helps to ferment the seeds in water for a few days but it is usually not necessary. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. > Thanks, > Pat Sent by azcentral.com mail! From saz621@primenet.com Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:57:01 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:57:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Shade structure We built ours by taking conduit and the approprite fittings to make it an arch over the bed. Large spikes were set in the ground and the pipe was simply inserted into it and attached the same way on the other side. The latest Maricopa County MG Communicator (I think) had a splendid description with much more detail on how to accompish this. I have also seen excellent results by taking PVC pipe and attaching it to the sides of a wooden raised bed with pipe wrap on each side to make an arch. I have also built frame that more resembled a teepee by lashing bamboo poles together across the bed then running one down the center, like a purlin. Good luck, Mary From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:02:26 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:02:26 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [When to plant Winter Squash and Sweetcorn In the low desert, plant winter squash the last 2 weeks in July. Refer to the Cooperative Extension's Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a complete vegetable planting schedule. Some of the smaller winter squashes (e.g., Butternut , Acorn, Spaghetti) can also be planted in March. See http://home.att.net/~millero/wintersquash.html for some more tips. Plant sweetcorn from mid February through March and from mid July through August per the Vegetable Planting Calendar. In the spring, wait to plant the super sweet sh2 types until March when the soil is warmer. See http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html for more tips about sweetcorn. , ----- Original Message ----- From: > I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:03:46 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:03:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Shade Screen Depends on how permanent you want the shade screen to be. One easy method is to construct a frame using EMT pipes (thinwall electrical conduit), anchor it to the ground and cover it with shade cloth available at garden centers, Home Depot, Home Base, etc. You could also frame it with PVC irrigation pipe but if it is not the UV stabilized type, it will become gets brittle from the sunlight with a year or so. Helps to paint . -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? > Thanks From hckymom@gateway.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:27:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:27:48 -0700 (MST) From: hckymom@gateway.net hckymom@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet From DavidWanda@compuserve.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:20:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: DavidWanda@compuserve.com DavidWanda@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. Can you help? Wanda From neilkupper@earthlink.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:46:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:46:55 -0700 (MST) From: neilkupper@earthlink.net neilkupper@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? From henryr@kaibab.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:37:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:37:33 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:33:10 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:33:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Tough-skinned Tomatoes You can view a previous response by a fellow Master Gardener to a similar question at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001294.html High temperatures, dryness in the air and sunshine can all play a role in toughening up the skin of tomatoes. We got some pretty high temps pretty early this summer. In George Brookbanks' book "Desert Gardening" he mentions that tomatoes grown in the desert tend to have leathery skins. A remedy he suggests is to grow varieties that hide their fruit under a canopy of leaves. Don't expose the fruit by staking the plants and pruning out their side shoots. Instead, encourage plants to bush out and scramble over the ground keeping it moist and the inside of the bush humid. He says to then look inside the jungle to find the softest, sweetest, thinnest-skinned fruit. We have a Fact Sheet on growing Tomatoes In Desert Gardens. For information on ordering a copy, please visit: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm The fact sheet is number MC22. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener DavidWanda@compuserve.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. > > Can you help? > > Wanda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:44:48 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:44:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash I consulted George Brookbank's book, "Desert Gardening" and on the subject of squash he advises "succession sowing". He says that because of the initial rapid growth and quick-fruiting habits of squash, it is better to make several sowings rather than keep an individual plant for as long as you can. The book suggests pulling up an old plant. It takes up a lot more space, it easily tires, and it's almost sure to get vine borers. His suggestion is to sow a second lot of seeds two weeks after you harvest the first fruit from the previous sowing. He says this way you may be able to get four sowings between the end of March and mid-September. He says in the book that one year in Tucson a second sowing of seeds was made on July 4th and the fruit were ready to eat within 30 days. I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop - Thanks for writing! Sue Bass Master Gardener Henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mikendeb@thesurf.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:21:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:21:58 -0700 (MST) From: mikendeb@thesurf.com mikendeb@thesurf.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? Thank you for your time.Deb From swenty@ctaz.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:01 -0700 (MST) From: swenty@ctaz.com swenty@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:34:22 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:34:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass >... > I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop ...! Might be better to wait a few weeks else the squash may bloom and the blossoms fade while the temps are still too high for pollination. Tucson is about 1000 feet higher in elevation than Phoenix and the midsummer temps are about 10 degrees lower. What works there usually works here as well but at a different time. Their spring season trails 3-4 weeks in the spring and their fall leads by several weeks as well. But if space permits, why not give it a try. I planted corn this spring well after the recommended date to see if it would pollinate. In the corn patch with no manual pollinating assistance but there were a lot of large blank spaces on the ears. The ears in the patch with early morning assistance (shaking the stalk) filled in fairly well but not as well as when planted during the regular season. -Olin From mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:51:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:51:03 -0700 (MST) From: mbuksas@worldnet.att.net mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:17:07 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:17:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? It's often called "yard-long" cucumber. It's really in the melon family - sometimes called "snake melon".. Grows very well in the low desert. Best used as a cucumber when they are still small cucumber-sized - they really become a yard long if you let them grow and they very rapidly, faster than zucchini. Quite a few listings on the web. Use search keyword "Armenian cucumber". -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 05:57:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 05:57:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Cereus Cactus Mine had the same thing and I didn't know what to do about it. So I hosed it down with a jet spray, thinking that maybe there was some kind of bug causing this brown, hard scaly 'growth'. It worked. The spots went away and have not returned. Maybe I was just lucky and the timing was right. But you might give this a try. It's my all-time favorite approach to everything I don't understand in the garden. Hose it down. If it works, fine. If not, it's back to the drawing board. :) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of swenty@ctaz.com Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:33 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cntaz@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) From: cntaz@aol.com cntaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? Thank you for any help. From dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:03:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:03:32 -0700 (MST) From: dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me select a turf for residential use. I would like a turf that: 1. has low water use 2. relatively low maintenance, not a lot of thatch build up quickly. 3. Low pollen production for allergies 4. Does not spread into gardens aggressively 5. Does not have a broad stem and cut be cut with non-reel type tiff mower. From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:57:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:57:08 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants in Vegetable Garden I shouldn't have thought that ants would be the culprit if your vegetation is being devoured. Ant biology and methods of control is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm There are several ideas that you can try before resorting to sprays or pellets. What concerns me is the identification of what IS eating your crops. Check out the plant diagnasotic section of our Timely Tips column for July, to see if any of the many situations cited apply to your vegetable patch. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener cntaz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? > Thank you for any help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:00:50 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:00:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants We have a good fact sheet that includes ant biology and management at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm I don't ever worry about ants unless they come in the house. With a lovely rotting compost pile outside in a far corner of the yard, any ants [roaches for that matter, too] seem to find that section much more appealing than my home! They are good to keep the compost pile moving, and in a recent article published in the Republic by one of our Ag Agents, ants can do alot of good for the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener neilkupper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:14:38 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:14:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Apple Spots Coddling moths are sometimes a problem....the larva are the proverbial worms in the apple...that burrow to the apple core leaving spots on the outer surface of the apples. See the relevant discussion in the Master Gardener Manual, Entomology chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/deciduous.html Another possibility is that your trees may be suffering from irregular irrigation and resulting poor calcium uptake. See the Manual's pathology section at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specifictrees.html To brush up on fruit tree care, you might like to peruse this chapter of the Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy PoetEvan@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Some apples on my tree have a brown spot which usually begins on the botton, becomes larger, soften and rots, and eventually infects the entire apple. > > What spray should I use? Is there more than one solution to the problem? > I recently bougth my house, I didn't plant the tree;I assume taht the apples are golden delicious. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:30:52 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:30:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Stick in the Ground Propogation If you have more than one stick, you could always experiment and put one in your soil. You might want to read the section of the Propogation Chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Among other things you would want to remove buds which would sap the energy you want to go into rooting, use a rooting hormone to encourage same, and use a good rooting medium rather than soil. You'll want to keep it evenly moist to encourage the roots. Sometimes, for woody specimens, it is better to take the cutting in the fall/winter or dormant season. Linda Guy Master Gardener 99fathead@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a large branch from a weeping willow > tree. I was told that if I dig a hole double > the size of the branch diameter hence "stick > it in the ground, it will grow. Is this true? > Please advise. Thank you, Jen. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:26:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:26:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fish Oil for the Birds The best way to protect fruits from the birds is to enclose each tree with a broad-mesh netting 2 to 3 weeks before the fruit matures. Others have hung strips of foil or shiny papers whose rustling in the breeze is said to deter the birds. As to fish oil's use in the matter, I am unaware of any reference thereto. It can be used as a foliar fertilizer, though I've not heard of its use for fruit trees. I haven't used it because neighborhood cats in my yards are already a problem for me, and I'm afraid the smell would be even greater enticement. Many nurseries have this product, as do the organic farm & garden supply catalogs like Peaceful Valley Farm. Linda Guy Master Gardener. SAHend@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Does fish oil repel birds from fruit trees? If so, where can I purchase it? > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:39:10 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:39:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! Linda Guy Master Gardener lxs@deainc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:47:35 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:47:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Color for Payson Have you contacted your county's cooperative extension office yet? They would have a much better appreciation of your area's needs and the vegetation that grows best there. Your situation is different than our low desert in Phoenix. The other thing you might try is to order Home Horticulture publications [many of what we use are specifically designed for Maricopa County, however]. We have a listing on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you could look through the flowers or ornamentals section for example. Would your library's reference section [#635] happen to have a notebook with these publications? Good books are listed on our reference list for selecting plants, which you can view at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-plnt.htm Several you might consider are by Mielke and Schuler who discuss elevation and other climate needs in their books. Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener bjm@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From selligirl@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:03:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: selligirl@aol.com selligirl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted an Arizona Ash Tree in April, 2000. This tree started out with small white bugs that killed the leaves. I sprayed it with soapy water twice. I had less bugs, but then noticed a white fungus on the stem of the leaves. I purchased an insecticide/fungicide from the store and sprayed the tree twice. I no longer see these bugs or the fungus, and now the leaves are turning brown. The tree looks like it is producing new leaves, yet as soon as they open they turn brown. My watering schedule is approximately once every 10 days. I check the ground two feet deep with a probe to make sure that I am not overwatering. Are the leaves turning brown from the heat or is it possible that something else is wrong with it? Thank You. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:20:20 EDT Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:20:20 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Junipers turning brown Junipers are a good host for spider mites and this is the time of year for them to be active. Also twig borers are active now, they will cause branch ends to die and turn brown.The spider mites can usually be controlled by frequent hosing down of the shrub with a strong stream of water; the twig borers will require an application or two of Sevin or diazanon. Even though you say that the trees are getting ample water I suspect that some or all of the problem may lie with the irrigation. You are watering twice a week when abetter plan would be to deep water once every two weeks in summer unless the trees were just planted. Watering depth should be three feet plus. The deep water will encourage the roots to go deep and will flush the salt out of the root zone. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. A mulch around the trees will help to keep the soil cool, conserve moisture, keep down weeds and provide a source of humus. Why not checkout the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html I don't feel qualified to answer your question about your soil test. Perhaps someone else on line will do so. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:58:27 EDT Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:58:27 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peach tree problems Sabita, The life expectancy of the peach tree is 10 to 20 years, so it could be headed down hill from old age. The peach tree is also susceptable to Texas Root Rot however TRR doesn't usually strike until mid to late summer. It will show a comlete colapse within a short time ( one week ) The leaves all wilt, turn yellow and brown and hang on the tree. This may happen to one half the tree at one time. Your peach tree should be pruned annually in the winter to give you a better fruit crop. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin describing how it should be done. Now we are comming to what I think is the biggest problem--- irrigation. You are watering five times a week when deep watering once a week would be very ample. By deep watering I mean water that penetrates to over three feet deep. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From clydic@netzone.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:47:12 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:47:12 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Contact Glen McCombs or Kathy at Plant Fair Nursery in Star Valley. They carry a broad selection of native and adapted plants that are low water use and would do well in your case. Good luck!! Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bjm@cybertrails.com Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 4:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:06:51 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:06:51 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from AgInfo site (fwd) > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 21:46:07 -0700 (MST) >From: ed-gayle@home.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from AgInfo site > >A new comment has been posted to AgInfo > >Individual: Gayle Fischer >Email: ed-gayle@home.com >City: Mesa State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: HELP. I don't know where to ask this question. We live in Mesa >near Lindsay & Broadway. I grew up in southeastern U.S. I went outside >one morning last week and our driveway was covered with >ants. Unfortunately, so was the grass I walked through without noticing >them. I was bitten numerous times by ants that are reddish-brown and >about 1/8" long. The bites, which burned terribly and swelled, formed >pustules on top, like fire ants. There are no obvious "fire ant >mounds". Are these fire ants, and if so, what can we do about them. I >know that in the south, the County had to deal with them because nothing >the public could use would eradicate them. >Category: Public > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:05:17 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:05:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ants Gayle, I've had excellent luck getting rid of outdoor ants by using Diazonon granules spread near their nest. They will usually be gone in one or two days. A non toxic material that works nearly as well but not as fast is citrus peel and water chewed up in a blender. Pour the mixture into the ant hill. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:53:51 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:53:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Arizona Ash, leaves turning brown Once the Arizona Ash has become established, a 10 day or greater irrigation interval for summer watering in the low desert would be fine. However your tree has only been planted approximately three months and the roots have not had a chance to become established. I would recommend an irrigation interval of 7 days of deep watering to a depth in excess of two feet. If the tree was planted from a 24 inch box or larger then the watering depth should be three feet. If you applied the insecticide fungicide according to label instructions, watered well the previous day, applied early or late in the day and the daily temperature was not in excess of that recommended by the label, then the burning should not have been from that source. I suspect that the brown leaves are most likely from under watering. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZSHAG@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0700 (MST) From: AZSHAG@aol.com AZSHAG@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am installing plants at my Phoenix residence. Last week I installed five-gallon sized containers of hibiscus, canary island palm, red yucca, cape honeysuckle, natal plum and red bird of paradise. Many of them are stressing which I anticipated, but I am confused about how I should be watering them. I installed drip emitters to them, but I am afraid I am either over watering or not watering enough. They all are getting full sun (I am shading the hibiscus from afternoon sun) and I backfilled holes with native soil and mulch mixture as suggested from the nursery. Any suggestions for water cycle on newly installed plants? What about vitamin supplements to help with stress? Any feedback would be appreciated. (P.S. I apologize if this question has been duplicated, I left a near identical question elsewhere) From neskovich@home.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:16:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:16:51 -0700 (MST) From: neskovich@home.com neskovich@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you EFFECTIVELY get rid of crabgrass which is growing through rock landscaping and mixing in with the existing plants without killing the wanted plants? Please help, I am frustrated. From kkturner@srpnet.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:21:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:21:25 -0700 (MST) From: kkturner@srpnet.com kkturner@srpnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need advise about an orlando tangelo tree. It is a young tree I had planted 2 years ago. It is about 5 feet tall. I have an irrigated lot. About a week ago, all the leaves suddenly tried. The wood still appears to be green but there are no functioning leaves left. It has been suggested I can severely prune the tree and it might come back. Is this possible? If so I need more exact instructions and a timeframe. I'd appreciate any suggestions! You can also phone me at 602-236-6969 or 480-835-0545 From camden@dancris.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:21 -0700 (MST) From: camden@dancris.com camden@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? From KSWagner2@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:42:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: KSWagner2@aol.com KSWagner2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Spanish Dager Yucca. The tips of the leaves appear to be burned as if someone might have used a lighter. The plant is in full sun on the south side of the house. Can you give me some idea of what the problem might be? Thank you. From ClaireASP@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:16:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:16:53 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was at the Home Depot today and found a plant that had Sago written on the pot.But it looks very different than the usual Sago that we see. Are there more than one variety of Sagos? Nobody at Home Depot could give me any information on this plant. Might you know which one I am talking about? If so, does this variety need as much shade as the regular Sago needs? My son has told me that he has seen a plant in somebodys yard that kind of looks like a Sago, but it is planted in full sun. Could the plant that I saw at Home Depot be the same one that he has seen? By the way, I bought one; so if you can give me any info, I sure would appreciate it. From datura@mail.inet-images.com Fri, 07 Jul 2000 15:14:31 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 15:14:31 -0700 From: Silvia McDonald datura@mail.inet-images.com Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable (for me) locations. What is the best way, if any, to move these? What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. Thanks Silvia McDonald From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:17:09 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:17:09 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Sago is part of the common name of Sago palm, which is really a cycad not a palm at all. There are dozens of species from all over the world, but Cycas revoluta, Sago palm is far and away the most commonly sold. They can be grown in full sun if slowly acclimated to it, either by providing shade in the summer, delaying planting until fall, or enduring the burn and loss of all existing leaves and waiting for the new ones to emerge fully sun hardy. Partial shade is much better. Mary From sterlin@magma.ca Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:56:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:56:43 -0700 (MST) From: sterlin@magma.ca sterlin@magma.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:44:07 -0700 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:44:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Rafflesia ----- Original Message ----- From: > Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? >From http://www.didyouknow.com/flowers.htm "The largest flower in the world, the rafflesia arnoldi, weighs 7 kg (15 pounds) and grows only on the Sumatra island of Indonesia. Its petals grow to ½ metre (1,6 feet) long and 2,5 cm (1 inch) thick." -Olin From cincy@uswest.net Sat, 8 Jul 2000 06:42:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 06:42:29 -0700 (MST) From: cincy@uswest.net cincy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? From kmieb@hotmail.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:19:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:19:56 -0700 (MST) From: kmieb@hotmail.com kmieb@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello... I have a couple of questions I was hoping you might answer.The first one has to do with my potted plants and their diet. I have been giving them fish emulsion and am sure that they have enough nitrogen but I can see that they are lacking some other important nutrients. So here is my question, What nutrients might they be lacking and where can I find an organic fertilizer that will do the trick. My second question has to do with my chiles and these brown spots on them. Could these spots be signs of blossom-end rot? Thank you so much for your time. From vlindsay98@yahoo.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:06:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:06:42 -0700 (MST) From: vlindsay98@yahoo.com vlindsay98@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? From sandiwilson@hotmail.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:08:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:08:47 -0700 (MST) From: sandiwilson@hotmail.com sandiwilson@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:45:12 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:45:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Grapes We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener sandiwilson@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:55:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:55:08 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Walking Cane I need a bit more information from you on the plant you are referring to. Are you speaking of Corylus a. 'Contorta', known as Harry Lauder's Walking Stick? If so, according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, this plant is not recommended for our zone. It is listed for zones 1-9 and 14-20. Our Sunset zone is 13. If this is not the shrub you are referring to, please let me know and I will do more research. Sue Bass Master Gardener vlindsay98@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:26:19 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:26:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Bouganvillea and Bottlebrush You can find information on propagating woody plants from cuttings in our on-line Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Sue Bass Master Gardener camden@dancris.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:32:17 EDT Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:32:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Crabgrass, getting rid of when growing amid broad leaf plants An herbicide commonly called Flazifop is designed to rid landscapes of grassy weeds that are growing up amid broadleaf plants that you want to save. One trade name that I have used is Grass Be Gone. Good luck. Rod From sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (MST) From: sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? From lampton@uswest.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:45:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:45:42 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From lampton@uswest.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:42:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 19:47:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 19:47:09 -0700 (MST) From: Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Japenese pine and half the tree looks like it's dieing. The needles are yellow with brown tips. From clairedc@peaplepc.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:05:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:05:22 -0700 (MST) From: clairedc@peaplepc.com clairedc@peaplepc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. Should anything be applied to bare spot where bark is missing? From caroler@netuser.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:43:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:43:16 -0700 (MST) From: caroler@netuser.com caroler@netuser.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are adding a door where a window now exists. Planted close is a white fig tree. We have to put cement steps in front of the door, but when we took out the hedge, we discovered one of the large roots from our fig tree is above the ground right where we need to put the steps. My question is: How much of a root system can you remove without damaging the tree? We live in Sunnyvale, CA (Zone 15) Thank you in advance for your reply. Best Regards, Carole Richborg From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 14:56:17 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 14:56:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Watering needs of Acacia Lew: I would suggest deep watering your tree to a depth of 3 feet once every two weeks during the summer months. You can check the depth by inserting a metal rod into the ground. The deep watering washes the salts away from the tree roots. I'd like to refer you to an archived response from Fellow Master Gardener and Arborist, Rod McKusik. You can view his response at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3187.html Here at my home, we deep water our trees once every two weeks. We water with emitters and we run them for two hours per watering. Sue Bass Master Gardener lampton@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, > Sincerely, > Lew > lampton@uswest.net > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:31 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva Cindy: The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. Sue Bass Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. > Thank you, > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:33:07 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:33:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Damaged tree bark In our archives I found an answer to a similar question, given by Rod McKusik, fellow Master Gardener and Arborist. In his response Rod states, "It has been found that injured trees will heal better if nothing is applied to the wound. It is reccomended that any loose bark be trimed back to live wood." Sue Bass Master Gardener clairedc@peaplepc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. > Should anything be applied to bare spot where > bark is missing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:54:03 EDT Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:54:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig tree with damaged roots Carole, If your fig tree has other roots it should survive the loss of one root. When you cut off the root be sure to leave a clean cut and do not use any type of sealer. It is very important that the tree receive adequate deep watering to minimise the amount of stress. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:58:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:58:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva There is also a good picture of the "lady bug larva" stage at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ladybug.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass > The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:32:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:32:07 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Worms I'm sorry to have kept you waiting so long. I had hoped that the relevant section of our archives, with a similar response of mine, would become available, but it appears we are having some technical difficulties. Red wrigglers, used for bait, are not thought to be heat-hardy in our soils or compost piles. I've heard this at several presentations on the topic. Many people will purchase a cup to start a vermicomposting operation inside their home, which is essentially processing your vegetal scraps and newspaper strips with worms in a large covered container in a dark, cooler corner of the house. You can contact a place called AZWORMZ at Azwormz@aol.com or 480-968-2318 for a nice printout. The September 1999 issue of Phoenix Home & Garden [p. 32] had a good three page writeup on vermicomposting. Also the "Rotline" of the Santa Clara County Home Composting Education Program [408-299-4147; that is 408 not 480 for east valley!] has an excellent brochure as well. Outdoors, my prepared soil is jam-packed with the native worms because I put in organic matter twice a year. I've never added worms in my prepared beds. I don't see the critters in the summer, because they descend out of the heat's range. As the weather cools, the top level of the soil is a veritable worm metropolis! In fact, in the areas that stay shaded under a dwarf line during 3 months of the winter, they are virtually on the surface. I can tell because about a 9 square foot area is covered in castings, the worms' fecal matter which is the object of vermicomposting after all. The castings in the sunny areas are within the soil, doing good work too. Hope this helps with your worm question. Linda Guy Master Gardener Michele Govig wrote: > arid_gardener > I spend about 15 minutes every morning picking mushrooms out of my lawn. > Some of them are ghostly green on the underside and I have read that they > can be very poisonous. I only water 1x per week and try to get the mushrooms > before they open. I have young kids and dogs so I worry about putting down > a fungicide, but I also worry about them eating a mushroom. Does anybody > have a solution. Also, is it ok to put earthworms purchased at a fishing > store into my gardens? > > Michele Govig > Mgovig@home.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From DPridmore@webtv.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:49:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: DPridmore@webtv.net DPridmore@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page live in michigan have drawf cherry tree sweet nebor. has a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . From azupsguy@earthlink.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:03:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:03:22 -0700 (MST) From: azupsguy@earthlink.net azupsguy@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? From tempebob@worldnet.att.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:09:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tempebob@worldnet.att.net tempebob@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? From jess@cvweb.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:44:20 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:44:20 -0700 From: Jessica Turvey jess@cvweb.com Subject: [AG] Herb Information Question #1: Besides Tip Top Nurseries and their kind, where else would you recommend that I purchase healthier herbs. Question #2: I have been looking for a broad leafed chive called "curly chive" to plant in my garden and have been unable to locate it. Question #3: Is this time of year okay to plant herbs. I am getting mixed messages in the literature. I should mention that my garden faces west but is partially shaded by a tree. Thanks much ! Jess T. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:46:19 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:46:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide - FLamers This listing of purveyors of flamers is by no means exhaustive being simply based on the garden implement catalogs I currently have in my possession! Lee Valley tools has a small weed torch, perhaps not for your size job, on page 33 of the 2000 main catalog [not the seasonal issues]. 800-871-8158 www.leevalley.com Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has the biggest selection, p. 37 of the 1999 catalog. 888-784-1722 www.groworganic.com I couldn't find one in the A.M. Leonard catalog, which doesn't have a good index, but call them at 800-543-8955 or check out www.amleo.com Linda Strader wrote: > Thank you for your response. I've heard of this, and it might work for this project. The only problem is training city maintenance personel not to melt the irrigation system. Do you know of a company that markets this? > P.S. Southern Arizona doesn't have ice and snow! > > >>> Linda Guy 07/06/00 02:39PM >>> > Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with > excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. > > The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly > effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. > > Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > lxs@deainc.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:52:29 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:52:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Newport Flowering Plum Edibility The Sunset Western Garden Book, p.442, says that the fruit of prunus cerasifera, also known as cherry plum or myrobalan, is a small red plum that is sweet but bland. It will self sow freely and some seedlings might begin to bear yellow fruit. Linda Guy Master Gardener J_chitwood@email.msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:54:34 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:54:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry Tree Pollination Your needs will be best served by contacting your own county's cooperative extension service whose phone number is listed in the government pages of your phone directory. You should have the specific varieties of the trees in question, so they can research if either are self-pollinators and what the risk of cross-pollination is. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener DPridmore@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > live in michigan have drawf > cherry tree sweet nebor. has > a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:04:09 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:04:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Caroline Jessamine Although this plant loks its best when watered regularly, this is not assured by hand watering. The plant's needs will probably be better served if you give it a long slow drink to 2-3 feet deep, every two weeks. If the plant were in full sun, which it prefers, it might need it as often as weekly. Perhaps it is receiving too much or erractic watering with your current practice. Just a note, that the Sunset Western Garden Book says that all parts of this plant are poisonous. Linda Guy Master Gardener smacica@intsvc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Last winter purchased a Carolina Jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens. > I planted it on the north side of a concrete block wall, running east/west. > It has been doing beautifully until 4 days ago when some of the leaves started > drying up and dying. Some tendrils seem uneffected or lightly effected so far, > but others are completely dead. I thought might need more water so I have been > hand watering since the problem appeared. > And suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Japanese Privet - Irrigation It sounds to me as if the plants have been overwatered and continue to be so. They can experience some sunburn in the hottest exposures, but this sounds different. This is also a plant that can be susceptible to Texas root rot which is discussed in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm A general rule of thumb is to water through the root ball 2 to 3 feet down. Since this plant does prefer regular watering, I suspect a weekly application in the summer time would do the trick. You are always welcome to bring a specimen of the impacted plant material to the cooperative extension office, or one of the satellites, which are listed on the page where you originally placed your question. The central office has a weekly diagnostic session with staff and volunteers. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener hckymom@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:24:35 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:24:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in the area that we typically serve? Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? > Thank you for your time.Deb > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rdschwartz@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:17:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:17:03 -0700 (MST) From: rdschwartz@aol.com rdschwartz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Mimosa tree has been infested with flat head borers can the worms invfest other nearby trees - for insttance a young pepper tree. And, how do I get rid of the problem? From jfuerte@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) From: jfuerte@uswest.net jfuerte@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need to fill my planters outside. There are 3 of them imbedded in my soil. They are about2 square feet each. I tried to plant flowers that are low maintenance because i am a poor gardener. Can you give me an inexpensive, hardy, semi-self sustaining, pretty plant to put into them? Thank you so much for wanting to help me From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:05:26 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:05:26 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident >X-Sender: ffolinda@ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:19:41 -0500 >To: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Linda Ffolliott >Subject: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident > >can you respond to this? > >Linda Ffolliott > > >From: "gene" > >To: > >Subject: cat's claw vine > >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:29:00 -0700 > >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 > >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 > >X-Status: > >X-Keywords: > >X-UID: 39238 > > > >We are not sure if you can help us or if we are writing to the right person, > >BUT, since we are new to Arizona, we planted cat's claw (big mistake) by our > >pool 4 years ago.We planted it on the east wall and it grew and grew and > >grew. It has damaged our cool deck of our pool. We took it out and tried > >to remove all roots. Is there anything we can use to kill the remaining > >roots, if we didn't get them all. We are afraid it will come back. > >It was an all day job to remove the vine and dig out the 4 roots. > > > >If you can help us, we would appreciate it. > > > >Thanks so much, Gene & Rosalee Cramer, Phoenix, AZ. > > gigpop@swlink.net > > > > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From drufener@osbornnet.org Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: drufener@osbornnet.org drufener@osbornnet.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:06:31 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:06:31 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Overgrown Chilean Mesquite The more water you give a Mesquite tree the faster they will grow. The Mesquite can survive on very little water. Your irrigation interval should be between 2 and 3 weeks of deep water. If you haven't been deep watering the first bad wind we have may leave that tree down. Yes you probably need to thin and shape the tree so that it has less wind resistance, However do not prune off more than 1/3 in one year and no more than 15% at one time. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on pruning at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and training by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries Sue Bass Master Gardener azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:06:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:06:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it. Sue Bass Master Gardenenr Sue Bass wrote: > arid_gardener > Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The > recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" > and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 > through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" > and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which > includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and > training by going to > http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it.

Sue Bass
Master Gardenenr

Sue Bass wrote:

arid_gardener
Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix.  The
recommended cultivars are from Texas.  They are "Rosborough"
and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994
through 1998.  Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos"
and "Brison".  You can view a copy of this study on-line, which
includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and
training by going to
http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote:

> arid_gardener
> is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

--------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Japanese Pine dying The Japanese Pine is not well adapted to the low desert and all its summer heat. My advice is to be sure to deep water the pine weekly during the summer. A 4 inch mulch layer under the tree would also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros In reviewing our publication 8309 about Cactus, Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo [which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals ] it suggests that cactus are quicker to reestablish themselves in the low deserts if transplanted from March through October. The warmer temps favor growth and the plant's increased ability to reestablish. Since you are probably cooler in Tucson, it seems that now is a very good time to do this job. The key to transplant success is to maintain the original directional orientation. This is so very important because the plant will have become toughened and resistant to sunburn on its south and southwest sides. If you were to expose the tender north or eastern sides to intense sun, you risk sunburn which can lead to rot. So use a piece of chalk and mark the orientation. The shallow roots should be cut with a sharp shovel blade in a complete circle about a foot away from the plant's base. Then dig under and carefully pry and lift the plant out of the ground. Allow loose soil to fall away from the roots. Keep lateral root stubs about 5 to 10 inches. Dust all the cuts with powdered sulphur to minimize infection and speed up the callous development process. Now place the transplants in a shaded open area for 1 to 2 weeks to develop these callouses. Replant the cactus in dry soil and do not irrigate until new growth appears at the apex or tips of plant. Larger saguaros or top-heavy cacti should be set a few inches deeper into the ground than they originally grew. Mound aditional soil around the base to support them until rerooting has occurred. Did you remember to repeat the plant's original orientation? Avoid heavier tighter soils, or mix in crushed granite, 1/3 to 1/2 of the soil volume. While organic soil additives can be used, they are unnecessary. Avoid locations where water is likely to collect. Your cactus won't like wet feet. Don't crowd the plantings; allow space for air to circulate freely. Provide appropriate shading, particularly for any species that normally grow under native bushes or trees. Fertilizer is not usually necessary. Limited cautious application early in growing season can stimulate growth. But do not do so in the fall, when you could create new growth that would be more susceptible to winter freeze injury. A last note, Judy Mielke suggests in her book Native Plants for SW Landscapes that the success rate of transplantation declines with the maturity of the specimen. All this is 'book learning' since I do not have saguaros. You can always call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225 for some truly expert advice. Like how to wrap your plants to avoid injury to you and them! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Silvia McDonald wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros > ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable > (for me) locations. > > What is the best way, if any, to move these? > What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? > Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Silvia McDonald > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:05:38 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:05:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Watering in Turf Fertilizer You should always follow the instructions for application that are included on all bags of fertilizer for best results! Often it is not the amount of time you water, but how much water you apply as measured by the soaking of the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener cincy@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. > when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:31:27 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:31:27 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] First Graders and Cactus I don't mean to frustrate your plans, but having gardened some bit in my children's elementary school I would not recommend using cactus for first graders due to the obvious threat of thorny incursions! Nearly all cacti have spines, so you might try some succulents [cacti are a subset of succulent] which do not, like the aloe family, that would not pose a risk. Using paper or other sleeves to hold the specimens is simply too complicated for little fingers. And it's no fun if only the teacher gets to dirty his/her hands! Permit me to show you some interesting material both on our website and otherwise. First, check out the index listing for youth gardening on the home page http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ There are a lot of references for you there. We also have a list server dedicated to youth gardening that you could subscribe to. At the bottom of this section, check out events: we have an annual school gardening conference, the last weekend of February that you would die for! It's simply jampacked with ideas and people who serve the youngsters in our horticultural community. Lastly, take a look at our book specifically on this topic, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/sch-bk.htm I put every reference and curriculum guide I could find at that time into Appendix B. Check it out! A personal favorite set of elementary school curriculum guides, that is focused on native material, used to come out of the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Call them to see if they would still provide a set; I've always given a modest donation to cover postage when I requested material. 520-326-9686 What I don't know to advise is a list of thornless succulents. Trot on over to the Desert Botanical Gardens, and I'm sure they'll be able to give some good guidance. 480-941-1225. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener drufener@osbornnet.org wrote: > arid_gardener > I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:09:50 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:09:50 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flame Throwers Isn't there a "Safer" solution? (pun intended). -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:23:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:23:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flatheaded Borers in Mimosa The publication "Boring Insects Attacking Mesquite Trees" at url "http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/boring_insects.html describes the problem and corrective action for flatheaded borers in mesquite trees. It would probably apply to mimosa as well. -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:50:47 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:50:47 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Chilean Mesquite Overgrown We ran into this same problem with our tree so we started pruning it and now we prune it regularly. We removed branches that grew downward and branches that began to rub against other branches. We also removed branches that grew inward - i.e., branches that didn't grow out and up but just sort of took off in their own direction. We did this gradually so that we didn't cut off too much at one time. This thinned out the tree and gave the wind less resistance. It also gave the tree a more 'airy' look which is nice. Now I just keep an eye on it and when branches start heading off in the wrong direction I clip them right away. I deep water the tree every three weeks in the summer and it seems to like that schedule. I hope this help. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of tempebob@worldnet.att.net Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 8:09 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From ariesterer@securityhardware.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:21:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:21:22 -0700 (MST) From: ariesterer@securityhardware.net ariesterer@securityhardware.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We purchased a Joshua Tree. How much water does it require? Does it need to be watered on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. From glmogie@bigplanet.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0700 (MST) From: glmogie@bigplanet.com glmogie@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do they paint the trees in the medians and what kind of paint do they use. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:56:22 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:56:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Bugs on watermelon plants ----- Original Message ----- From: > The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? > Probably either melon aphids or whitefly larva. If you have not seen adult whiteflies around the plants, it's more likely to be aphids although it's a bit warm for them. Control is similar for both. The melon aphid will be on the underside if the leaves and it ranges in color from yellow to black. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm "Wash aphids off with a strong blast of water, spray aphids with mild soapy water (1 tsp to 1 tbsp of non-concentrated dish detergent per gallon of water - not citrus based soap). Before spraying the entire plant, always spray a few leaves and check the next day for leaf burn." White flies infest all cucurbits but affect water melons to a somewhat lesser degree than cantaloupes. See http://ag.arizona.edu/aes/yac/veginfo/whitefly.htm for a detailed descrption to help identify it in its various stages. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm "A homemade spray for whiteflies and scales: mix one cup vegetable oil plus one tablespoon dish detergent (regular, not concentrated, and not citrus based) in a pint jar and shake. Add one to two teaspoons of this mixture to one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray the underside of leaves to dripping. Always spray a few leaves and check 24 hours latter for leaf burn before spraying entire plant". Good Luck, Olin From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:10:52 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:10:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed I am always amazed at the geographic range of our querents. We've even had participation from Australia and South Africa! However, I'm going to tell you to make haste to the government listings of your phone directory to locate your own county's cooperative extension office. There should be an ag agent and/or Master Gardener volunteers like us who deal with questions like yours, but who can address your specific locale.We have less than 11" rain per year, intense summer sun and heat, generally heavy clay soil, hard/alkaline water.....hardly the conditions that you face. The plant varieties that can thrive here are what we consult on the best. Good luck with your fruit trees! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ mikendeb wrote: > Hello Linda, We llive in Fond du Lac Wisconsin. I sure hope that you can > help us. > If you would like more information please feel free to ask. Deb > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Guy" > To: > Cc: "Arid gardener server" > Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 9:24 AM > Subject: Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed > > > According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour > cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix > metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of > cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and > they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties > > > > I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning > is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, > could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in > the area that we typically serve? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > Maricopa County > > > > mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine > when we had planted them. > > > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is > something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some > brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it > would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that > anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we > also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as > bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith > tree. > > > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please > Help???????????? > > > Thank you for your time.Deb > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From thoover@fiskars.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:45:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:45:16 -0700 (MST) From: thoover@fiskars.com thoover@fiskars.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am told that you can grow blueberries in the valley. Are they difficult to grow here and what varieties are recommended for this area? From mmatthes@aol.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:21:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:21:07 -0700 (MST) From: mmatthes@aol.com mmatthes@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 7-8 ft. 2-trunk pygmy date palm that was planted in my front yard (southern exposure in Surprise) last year. One of the trunks' fronds have died. I think it may be due to excessive winds from this spring. The other trunk's fronds appear healthy. Will the 2nd trunk's fronds grow back? What do I need to do? If it won't grow back, what do I do with the unhealthy trunk? Obviously, removing one trunk would unbalance the tree and look very odd. Could this be bud rot? Do I need to replace the entire tree? THANKS for any help! From lewislampton@uswest.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) From: lewislampton@uswest.net lewislampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I asked a question on my acacia seligna the other day, I have not heard back or lack the knowledge on how to access that information. Our tree is plantted on the north side of the yard it gets plenty of sun, in fact all day. The leaves are turning yellow on the ends and falling off, it did this very same thing last year, and this year it seemed to be coming back and looking nice and then hot weather hit, and it started to die again. We have upped the water frequency to see if it maybe not getting enoufgh water but it is a desert or so we thought. Help us please we live on the east side. Ellsworth and 95 st.,(480)357-7001. From Loganrca@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:24:04 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:24:04 EDT From: Loganrca@aol.com Loganrca@aol.com Subject: [AG] citrus questions I have three citrus trees in my yard. In the past year I have had to replace two of the trees. It looks like I will need to replace a third this fall. My first question is, I have an orange tree that bloomed very well this spring. It started new growth and new leaves. All the fruit fell off and the leaves stopped growing. The leaves stayed on the tree but only developed to about 1/8 the size they should be. The tree is showing signs of sun burn. Should I be making plans of removing this tree, or is there hope that the tree can be saved? If so what can I do to save it? My second question deals with the fact that the remaining two trees have yellow sections in them. I have fertilized the trees with good fertilizer recommended by the nursery and have give treatments of iron as recommended. This does not seem to have changed the situation at all. Also I am following the recommended watering guidelines. Is there anything else I can do too help these trees? Would there be areas that just cannot support citrus trees? I hope you can shed some light on my problems with citrus trees. Thank you. Harry Logan loganrca@aol.com From cmarkley794@earthlink.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: cmarkley794@earthlink.net cmarkley794@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was wondering if I could cut back some chrysanthmums and geraniums? They have been burned by the sun. If I can't do it now when can I? Thank You From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:47 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:47 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Sunburn on smooth bark trees Most smooth bark trees growing in the low desert need protection from the hot sun particularly the PM sun. One way to provide that protection is to paint the trunks white or a light color of latex paint. Burlap is another product used. If you notice the citrus orchards you will see that the lower branches are left on the trees to provide shade for the trunks. Good luck. Rod From alice.terry@juno.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:09:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:09:01 -0700 (MST) From: alice.terry@juno.com alice.terry@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Near the bouganvilla bush, where the blossoms drop off, I have little plants coming up. They are about 2 inches high, two to 6 leaves each, and the leaves look like the bouganvilla. However, the leaf stems are a reddish color. Could these be new bouganvilla bushes? From hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:00:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I saw on a recent show on TV about saving rainwater from your roof into a water container to be used later to water your plants to save water for your desert landscaping.The downspouts from your roof guuters were piped directly into this container.Do you know where to buy these containers to save the Rain water?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,Jim Sgambati From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:37:14 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:37:14 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Acacia saligna dying Lewis, We discussed on the phone about your problem with Acacia saligna trees, and I recommended that you apply more water. There is lots of information on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ledcor@email.msn.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:23:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:23:53 -0700 (MST) From: ledcor@email.msn.com ledcor@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I plant caladium bulbs (tubers) in my garden in Phoenix? What is the best time to plant and will I need to pull them in winter? When do I pull them and how do I store? The garden bed I've chosen is full shade. I also understand I mix a soil of peat moss, sand and mulch prior to planting. Any other suggestions or tips? Thanks, Debby From theingurgios@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:02:39 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:02:39 -0700 (MST) From: theingurgios@aol.com theingurgios@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a squirrel that insists on burrowing in our landscaping. He is making huge tunnels and holes. Daily my husband repairs the havoc only to return the following day to do more damage. Is there a safe, clean way to rid ourselves of this pain in the dirt? Or do we have to live with it? From DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:43:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:43:01 -0700 (MST) From: DONNORRICH@AOL.COM DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have citrus...grapefruit and lemon set and kept fruit. Our organges set and dropped all fruit. We have yellow spots on leaves some curled leaves. What could cause the organges to loose their fruit? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:31:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:31:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Rainwater Harvesting Containers Seems any type of containers should work. You could use water storage tanks or stock watering tanks available locally. There are some fancy 55 gal drums on the web at http://www.rio.com/~plastmo/gardnh2o.html http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169.pdf http://www.gardenweb.com/forums/load/water/msg070954047430.html http://www.greenculture.com/pr/ws.html Gardeners Supply Company has it in their catalog and also on the web at. http://www.gardeners.com/theme_pages/save_on_watering_essentials.asp I'm sure every small bit would help but I've worked the numbers several times and found it not to be a worthwhile expenditure for me. Not enough rainfall. Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > I saw on a recent show on TV about saving rainwater from your roof into a water container to be used later to water your plants to save water for your desert landscaping.The downspouts from your roof guuters were piped directly into this container.Do you know where to buy these containers to save the Rain water?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,Jim Sgambati From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:09:16 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:09:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Blueberries in the Low Desert? Blueberries are usually not considered to be adapted to the low desert. They need more chill hours (time below 40 deg F) during the dormant period than we normally experience. Some winters we receive up to 300 hrs but usually it's quite a bit less. They also do not do well in alkaline soil. And they would probably need to be shaded. There are a few varieties with low chill requirements (200 hours or less - see: http://www.mastergardeners.org/recommend/bluevar.html ) that may be worth trying. In the garden section of today's AZ Republic newspaper, there was an article about a local gardener who grows all types of "non-adapted" fruit, including blueberries along with a photograph. Suggest trying to contact him for advice (White pages). Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am told that you can grow blueberries in the valley. Are they difficult to grow here and what varieties are recommended for this area? From fscapellit@mindspring.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:53:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:53:48 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What procedure do I follow for planting cuttings from my plants to start new plants. What soil or medium do I set the in and do I take of any leaves for new roots. Set me clear. Thank you From azmary@hotmail.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:43:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:43:32 -0700 (MST) From: azmary@hotmail.com azmary@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted roses for the first time in AZ this year.They are watered automatically and I have been feeding them regularly(1st w/Miracle Grow then with Peter's} They are growing well but either are not blooming at all or have very very small blooms. Please help. From danopato@mindspring.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:58:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:58:31 -0700 (MST) From: danopato@mindspring.com danopato@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to grow tomatoes at this time of the year in this area and if so, what is the best way to go about it...Dano in Mesa. From muriel.miller@stpaul.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:00:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:00:53 -0700 (MST) From: muriel.miller@stpaul.com muriel.miller@stpaul.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just planted an Ocotillo. It is about 9' tall. The nursery I purchased it from said it would take about 3-4 months to root. Does it need to be staked? Any tips for keeping it healthy? From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:58:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:58:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Starting plants from cuttings The following page from the Master Gardener Manual will give you the information you need to start plants from cuttings. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Sue Bass Master Gardener fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What procedure do I follow for planting cuttings from my plants to start new plants. > > What soil or medium do I set the in and do I take of any leaves for new roots. > > Set me clear. > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:09:41 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:09:41 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Tomatoes You can set out tomatoe transplants in July, as well as peppers according to the July Timely Tips at the Home Horticulture web page. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm This is a great spot to find out what to plant each month of the year. You can find information on growing tomatoes at our on-line Master Gardener Manual. Go to the following page for Tomatoes: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/tomatoes.html A shade screen is generally preferable during the hot summer months. Sue Bass Master Gardener danopato@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to grow tomatoes at this time of the year in this area and if so, what is the best way to go about it...Dano in Mesa. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From tsozuna@goodnet.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:50:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:50:49 -0700 (MST) From: tsozuna@goodnet.com tsozuna@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I observed a large yellow/black butterfly depositing eggs on the tips of our tangerine tree. I now realize that maybe the culprit that was stripping the young leaves was from this gorgeous butterfly. Could I collect these eggs (only on the tips of our young tree) and place them in some other environment that would provide the needed food source? I don't really want to spray our tree as I am allergic to most pesticides and I would like to see these butterflies flying in our garden. Thanks! From cpbio@altavista.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:30:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:30:24 -0700 (MST) From: cpbio@altavista.com cpbio@altavista.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Three months ago I planted 2 5 gal. Arizona Ash trees (Fraxinus Velutina) and recently the tips of some of the leaves are turning brown. I water approx. 1 gal. three days a week Any help you can give me as to the problem will be appreciated. From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:50:26 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 13:50:26 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Orange Dog Caterpillar The butterfly you are seeing is the giant swallowtail, which produces the Orange Dog caterpillar, a pest to citrus. The following page from the Master Gardener Manual will give you information about this caterpillar and how to control it.. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/citrus.html Sue Bass Master Gardener tsozuna@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I observed a large yellow/black butterfly > depositing eggs on the tips of our tangerine > tree. I now realize that maybe the culprit > that was stripping the young leaves was from > this gorgeous butterfly. Could I collect > these eggs (only on the tips of our young > tree) and place them in some other > environment that would provide the needed > food source? I don't really want to spray > our tree as I am allergic to most pesticides > and I would like to see these butterflies > flying in our garden. Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From bdmart@wans.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:36:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 14:36:02 -0700 (MST) From: bdmart@wans.net bdmart@wans.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Mesa and have a huge population of potatoe bugs in our back yard. Are they harmful to the vegatation and if so how do we get rid of them? The kids find them fun to play with but I'd rather them not be here!! Thank you for any assistance you might be able to offer in this situation! Becky Martinez From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:19:10 EDT Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 18:19:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Orange tree lost all fruit Thanks for the info, I don't have quite all the info I need, however I know where your problem lies. I'm estimating that the canopy of the tree is about 8 feet in diameter. University of Arizona's research department has found that a grapefruit tree with a canop y diameter of 8 feet in July will need 7.2 gallons of water per day or 100.8 gallons in a 14 day period. You would need five drippers on the tree with each set at 8 gallons per hour to put down that much water. A 14 day irrigation interval works fine if you have flood irrigation where all the ground is throughly soaked, but when using drippers that does't happen. My recommendation for summer citrus watering is to not exceed a 10 day irrigation interval unless you have flood irrigation. The rest of your citrus care seems to be right on target. If you have more questions I'm as close as your PC. Good luck Rod From bomark@desertlink.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:07:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 16:07:44 -0700 (MST) From: bomark@desertlink.net bomark@desertlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What do you do with newly planted citrus trees this time of the year? Fertilizing, trimming, watering, etc. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:22:38 EDT Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:22:38 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Roses looking poorly I just answered a similiar question, so I have copied it here. What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:22:41 EDT Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:22:41 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Animal burrowing inthe yard >From your description it sounds as if you have gophers in your yard. There are several ways to get rid of gophers as follows: Traps, poisoned bait, and a toxic fume device such as a highway flare. I have used the flares on a number of ocasions and have found them to be effective. Good luck. Rod From ringwilly@freewwweb.com Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:34:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 19:34:05 -0700 (MST) From: ringwilly@freewwweb.com ringwilly@freewwweb.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, Glad I found this site! UofA understands this area. I have a small veg garden. Very sucessful with Early Girls, lettuce, jalapenos but not my crookneck squash. They look like someone glued kennels of corn onto their skins. Some say lack of water, heat stress or mutation is the cause. The large leaves have some yellowing, however, overall they look like healthy plants. Can you help me? Thxs. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:13:27 -0700 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 23:13:27 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The growing and productive season for summer squash has pretty much ended. The rinds get hard and warty at the end of the season. It is usually planted from mid March through mid April. You can plant again about a month from now when it will usually be cool enough for pollination when the blossoms appear. The key to a successful 2nd summer squash crop is to plant late enough for pollination but early enough to get a crop before frost (assuming there will be a frost). Production is not as good as with spring planting and the annual end date of the extremely hot weather is pretty variable. If you plant a few seeds at the end of July and again at the end of August there is a good chance of getting a few squashes from one of the plantings, sometimes from both.. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a complete vegetable planting schedule for the low desert which will work for most situations. See also the "Timely Tips" page for the month in question at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck, Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Hello, Glad I found this site! UofA understands this area. I have a small veg garden. Very sucessful with Early Girls, lettuce, jalapenos but not my crookneck squash. They look like someone glued kennels of corn onto their skins. Some say lack of water, heat stress or mutation is the cause. The large leaves have some yellowing, however, overall they look like healthy plants. Can you help me? Thxs. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:32:38 EDT Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 10:32:38 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Strawberries (Hope this is the correct address. My addresses vanished with my computers' brain.) I have hanging baskets of strawberries and don't want to stick the runners back in the baskets but would like to plant them elsewhere. How can I clip them off and get them to grow roots without the mother plant? I tried rooting them in water and they will start roots, but I don't want to soak the crown like that and they die when I put them in soil. Thx - B From jlitch620@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 09:09:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 09:09:35 -0700 (MST) From: jlitch620@aol.com jlitch620@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have several rose bushes. in the past i have fertilized and trimmed all summer. i heard that you should let them be during the summer ,except for water. when can i trim again and fertilize? thank gabi From Teleronde@AOL.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 11:06:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 11:06:09 -0700 (MST) From: Teleronde@AOL.com Teleronde@AOL.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What would cause an established beaver-tail (Prickly pear)cactus to suddenly start to shrivel and discolor? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:48:41 -0700 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:48:41 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re; Crookneck Squash Re- sent message to change subject in header. ============================== The growing and productive season for summer squash has pretty much ended. The rinds get hard and warty at the end of the season. It is usually planted from mid March through mid April. You can plant again about a month from now when it will usually be cool enough for pollination when the blossoms appear. The key to a successful 2nd summer squash crop is to plant late enough for pollination but early enough to get a crop before frost (assuming there will be a frost). Production is not as good as with spring planting and the annual end date of the extremely hot weather is pretty variable. If you plant a few seeds at the end of July and again at the end of August there is a good chance of getting a few squashes from one of the plantings, sometimes from both.. See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a complete vegetable planting schedule for the low desert which will work for most situations. See also the "Timely Tips" page for the month in question at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck, Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Hello, Glad I found this site! UofA understands this area. I have a small veg garden. Very sucessful with Early Girls, lettuce, jalapenos but not my crookneck squash. They look like someone glued kennels of corn onto their skins. Some say lack of water, heat stress or mutation is the cause. The large leaves have some yellowing, however, overall they look like healthy plants. Can you help me? Thxs. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From lorivose@tch-az.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:00:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 12:00:55 -0700 (MST) From: lorivose@tch-az.com lorivose@tch-az.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I work for a non-profit organization that works with people with physical & developmental disabilities. At our day treatment site we have a 1 1/2 acre horticultural therapy garden. We need volunteers to help us maintain, weed, water, plant, create therapy and job training programs and volunteer to run them. Can you tell me how to get Master Gardeners involved? We would benefit from the help and the knowledge they could provide. Thanks! Lori From TSSchlabs@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:24:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 13:24:24 -0700 (MST) From: TSSchlabs@aol.com TSSchlabs@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two sage shrubs which I have just let go for the last two years without pruning. THe previous owner pruned them into popcorn balls, a look I do not care for. They are now 6x6 or larger and block my view when I am backing out of the driveway. Can I cut them back as you would an oleandar? If so, when could I do this so I can gently prune to maintain a shorter but more natural looking shrub? Thank you for your input. From barbarasloss@yahoo.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:19:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 14:19:49 -0700 (MST) From: barbarasloss@yahoo.com barbarasloss@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a botany question becuase I am interested in eutrophication and plant respiration and how that reduces the amount of oxygen in the water. How much of the oxygen that is produced by a plant during photosynthesis is used during respiration? Does a plant just photosynthesize more than it respires? Another question that I have is: In desert plants, do the stomata open more with increased heat and wind or just open at night? thank you for your responses. -barbara From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:26 EDT Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:26 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer Rose Care Gabi, Roses do need care in the summer, fertilize at half strength and be sure to water well both before and after. You still need to dead head your roses, but I just remove the spent bloom and leave as many leaves on as possible to provide badly needed shade. My roses are washed down once a week to minimize the chance of spider mites getting started, and to wash the leaves and increase the humidity around the bushes. Watch for chlorotic leaves which indicate an iron deficiency caused by all the water that is applied. Leaves turn light green and the veins remain dark green. Toward the end of September prune back your roses about 1/3, fertilize again and get set for a glorious bloom in November Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:29 EDT Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:29 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ash trees newly planted and showing leaf burn Do I interpret your question as reading 25 gallon trees or two 5 gallon trees? The Arizona A sh has leaves that are susceptable to wind and sunburn, and to the tree is subject to iron chlorosis. I suspect that you are not watering enough even if those trees were 5 gallon trees , 3 gallons of water a week is not enough. I suggest that you increase the water to about 3 or 4 gallons twice a week or once every 5 days. By next year at this time you will want to be watering on a 7 to 10 day schedule. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:04:18 EDT Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:04:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Texas Ranger Texas Ranger can be pruned nearly any time of year,however you should not remove more than 15% at one time. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From kbanks@lb.dvusd.k12.az.us Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:55:44 -0700 (MST) From: kbanks@lb.dvusd.k12.az.us kbanks@lb.dvusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature shoestring acacia tree which produces copious amounts of seeds. This creates an unsightly mess in my yard and on my driveway. Is there a way to sterilize the tree so that it no longer produces seeds? From lollysc@juno.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:35:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 18:35:05 -0700 (MST) From: lollysc@juno.com lollysc@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is hibiscus an acid loving plant? Also split leaf philodendron From gigpop@swlink.net Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:30:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 19:30:07 -0700 (MST) From: gigpop@swlink.net gigpop@swlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When we first moved to AZ. the pool man told us that Cats Claw would be good on the east wall behind the pool. (Big Mistake!!) It grew and grew and grew. We think the roots have raised up the cool deck and damaged the grout. We had the vines torn down, and the roots dug up, but want to know if there is any way to kill the roots in case there is still some left. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thank you so much. From umiller@azdps.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 21:19:11 -0700 Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 21:19:11 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus - Acid Loving? I've not found them to be particularly acid-loving - at least not like some of the other kinds of plants that I grow. Check out this site. It has the best information on growing hibiscus that I've found yet. http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/feeding.htm I hope this helps. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of lollysc@juno.com Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 6:35 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener is hibiscus an acid loving plant? Also split leaf philodendron _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From Meddleman2@home.com Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:02:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 14 Jul 2000 23:02:46 -0700 (MST) From: Meddleman2@home.com Meddleman2@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Tucson and I saw the biggest wasp I have ever seen in my life... I don't know if you are the right people to talk to about it but I though it was amazing...It was easliy the size of a hummingbird...it was black in color with black wings. I have lived here in Arizona for 27 years and haven't seen anything that even comes close to the size of this wasp. I thought it was a tranchula wasp but they have orange wings and are smaller that the one that I saw. If you know what this wasp might have been please email me and let me know what this insect is. Its absolutely amazing to watch fly across the yard... meddleman2@home.com thanks....Matt From ClaireASP@aol.com Sat, 15 Jul 2000 13:57:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 13:57:17 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Got another question for you. We have 2&1/2 acres of land in North Scottsdale. Our house is built on half of the land, and the other half has been left just desert. I have been trying to add some landscape to this area, other than just the Creasote bushes,etc. I planted a Yellow Bells a while ago out there.I would tote a bucket of water out there everyday at first, and then started cutting it back to every few days when I thought it might be getting more established. It seemed to be doing real good, so I decided to see how long it could go without water if I did the real deep soaking. I overnight slow hose watered it on Sunday, July 2. I then checked it everyday to see how it was doing. I finally decided to deep hose water it overnight again on Wed. of this week, July 12. I was so pleased that it was able to go for a week and a half without having to be watered again. I just checked it this morning, July 15, and it was looking pretty wilted! Why did it only go a few days this time? Seems to me that our weather conditions have been pretty much the same. I just can't understand why at one point it could go for a week and a half, and the next time only a few days. Did I do something wrong? I hope that I am not being a pest; but I really do appreciate all the information that you have sent me in the past. Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 15 Jul 2000 14:00:16 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 14:00:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Although you have apparently ruled out the tarantula hawk (picture at http://azuswebworks.com/html/twasp.html ), it could still be one of the spider wasps.. According to "Borrer, et al.", "The more common members of this group [Family Pompilidae] are 15-25 mm [0.6 - 1.0 inch] in length but some western species are 35-40 mm [1.4 - 1.8 inches] in length. Most spider wasps are dark-colored with smoky or yellowish wings. A few are brightly colored. ..." Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 11:02 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I live in Tucson and I saw the biggest wasp I > have ever seen in my life... I don't know if > you are the right people to talk to about it > but I though it was amazing...It was easliy > the size of a hummingbird...it was black in > color with black wings. I have lived here in > Arizona for 27 years and haven't seen anything > that even comes close to the size of this wasp. > I thought it was a tranchula wasp but they have > orange wings and are smaller that the one that I saw. > If you know what this wasp might have been please email > me and let me know what this insect is. Its absolutely > amazing to watch fly across the yard... > > meddleman2@home.com > > > thanks....Matt > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 15 Jul 2000 14:02:04 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 14:02:04 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Large Wasp Although you have apparently ruled out the tarantula hawk (picture at http://azuswebworks.com/html/twasp.html ), it could still be one of the spider wasps.. According to "Borrer, et al.", "The more common members of this group [Family Pompilidae] are 15-25 mm [0.6 - 1.0 inch] in length but some western species are 35-40 mm [1.4 - 1.8 inches] in length. Most spider wasps are dark-colored with smoky or yellowish wings. A few are brightly colored. ..." Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 11:02 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I live in Tucson and I saw the biggest wasp I > have ever seen in my life... I don't know if > you are the right people to talk to about it > but I though it was amazing...It was easliy > the size of a hummingbird...it was black in > color with black wings. I have lived here in > Arizona for 27 years and haven't seen anything > that even comes close to the size of this wasp. > I thought it was a tranchula wasp but they have > orange wings and are smaller that the one that I saw. > If you know what this wasp might have been please email > me and let me know what this insect is. Its absolutely > amazing to watch fly across the yard... > > meddleman2@home.com > > > thanks....Matt > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From gussiejean@earthlink.net Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:43:50 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 15:43:50 -0700 From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Rose problems This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BFEE73.79053F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi. I've been reading some of the solutions that are posted on rose = problems. They have answered my questions about small roses and the = cutter bee marks on my leaves. =20 However, here are some more: I planted my rose bush, Blue Girl, in a = stand alone pot, and it was also by an outdoor, white freezer. The = leaves have been getting burnt....they are turning a dark brown and = drying up. I figured that it was because I had watered the bush too = early in the day and that the sun was burning the leaves from residual = water. It had the east and noon sun but no afternoon sun. Now I set = them out away from the freezer, but the leaves are still burning some. = I now water only after the sun sets, and I have started to give them a = misting every other day when I water. As I said, they are in a stand = alone pot because I want to be able to take them with me should we move. My mother-in-law's bushes do not do too great, and they are greatly = shaded. Another person on our property has about four or five bushes, = they receive full sun, and they do a tremendous job of production. = Therefore I didn't think that the sun would bother the bush, but they = are planted above the ground. Is there any way to make the roots = cooler? I suggested building a brick circle close around it, but my = husband thinks that the brick will just hold the heat in. I also have a = wire grill around it since I thought that the circles came from birds = initially. It actually had helped keep the bees away from the leaves = until the leaves grew over the wire. :-) Your help would be = appreciated. Thank you.....Karen O. ------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BFEE73.79053F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi.  I've been reading some of the = solutions=20 that are posted on rose problems.  They have answered my questions = about=20 small roses and the cutter bee marks on my leaves. 
 
However, here are some more:  I = planted my=20 rose bush, Blue Girl, in a stand alone pot, and it was also by an = outdoor, white=20 freezer.  The leaves have been getting burnt....they are turning a = dark=20 brown and drying up.  I figured that it was because I had watered = the bush=20 too early in the day and that the sun was burning the leaves from = residual=20 water.  It had the east and noon sun but no afternoon sun.  = Now I set=20 them out away from the freezer, but the leaves are still burning = some.  I=20 now water only after the sun sets, and I have started to give them a = misting=20 every other day when I water.  As I said, they are in a stand alone = pot=20 because I want to be able to take them with me should we = move.
 
My mother-in-law's bushes do not do too = great,=20 and they are greatly shaded.  Another person on our property has = about four=20 or five bushes, they receive full sun, and they do a tremendous job of=20 production.  Therefore I didn't think that the sun would bother the = bush,=20 but they are planted above the ground.  Is there any way to make = the roots=20 cooler?  I suggested building a brick circle close around it, but = my=20 husband thinks that the brick will just hold the heat in.  I = also have=20 a wire grill around it since I thought that the circles came from birds=20 initially.  It actually had helped keep the bees away from the = leaves until=20 the leaves grew over the wire.  :-)  Your help would be=20 appreciated.  Thank you.....Karen O.
------=_NextPart_000_0042_01BFEE73.79053F60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 15 Jul 2000 20:55:47 EDT Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 20:55:47 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rose problems Hi Karen, Roses grown in the low desert will do better if planted or placed where they will get morning sun and afternoon shade. Your decision to place the potted rose next to a white freezer didn't help the rose, the reflecting sun off the freezer may have contributed to the leaf burn. You also may not be watering the rose often enough, if the rose is in a 5 gallon pot it should be watered every day. Lets talk about the pot size which for a full size rose should be at least a 15 gallon size. A friend who grows all his roses in pots uses an insulating material to line each pot before planting to help keep the roots cooler, and tops the container off with 3 inches of mulch, he then covers all the roses with a sun screen material. I have never seen a water burn on a rose leaf during 25 years of growing roses in Arizona. The burn you are seeing on your roses is probably mostly caused by salt left in your soil mix when the water evaporates, there is some burn which can be attributed to sun and wind, but most of it is from salt. You can help eliminate much of it by periodicly flushing the pot with water. I suspect that your mother in law's roses are not doing well because they do not get enough sun. Your idea of building a brick planter sounds like a good one, why not line it with an insulating material to keep the soil cooler. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:46:36 EDT Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 21:46:36 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Caladium Debby, I think it is probably too late to plant caladium bulbs for this summer. I have heard that they won't start growing until the temperature reaches at least 90. The instructions I've read says they should be stored at 60 degrees. I just talked to a woman Thur night, tho, who left her bulbs in the ground over last winter and they grew this summer. Who knows??? Val From shirleyc@erda.net Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:37:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 18:37:47 -0700 (MST) From: shirleyc@erda.net shirleyc@erda.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Utah. I have a silver maple that has turned in color. Leaves on end of branches are of light green. How can this be treated? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:26:03 -0700 Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 19:26:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Kangaroo Paws This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------2AF174E7D99EAB8058538849 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Does anyone have experience with Kangaroo Paw? --------------2AF174E7D99EAB8058538849 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 13918 invoked by uid 0); 13 Jul 2000 19:06:43 -0000 Received: from mail7.uswest.net (204.147.80.25) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 13 Jul 2000 19:06:43 -0000 Received: (qmail 59804 invoked from network); 13 Jul 2000 19:06:40 -0000 Received: from smtp6.mindspring.com (207.69.200.110) by mail7.uswest.net with SMTP; 13 Jul 2000 19:06:40 -0000 Received: from florine (user-38ldipr.dsl.mindspring.com [209.86.203.59]) by smtp6.mindspring.com (8.9.3/8.8.5) with SMTP id PAA13529 for ; Thu, 13 Jul 2000 15:06:39 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 12:02:47 -0700 Message-ID: <000b01bfecfc$efc5e1e0$6401a8c0@florine> From: "Florine Scapelliti" To: "Sue Bass" References: <200007130153.SAA17056@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <396DF52A.59980B63@uswest.net> Subject: Re: Starting plants from cuttings MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4029.2901 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4029.2901 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thank you so very much, Sue for the info. It is great. May I ask one more question? In the past two years I've had kangaroo paws and they've died after blooming period. What am I doing wrong? Florine ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 9:58 AM Subject: Re: Starting plants from cuttings > The following page from the Master Gardener Manual will give you the information you > need to start plants from cuttings. Go to: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > What procedure do I follow for planting cuttings from my plants to start new plants. > > > > What soil or medium do I set the in and do I take of any leaves for new roots. > > > > Set me clear. > > > > Thank you > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > --------------2AF174E7D99EAB8058538849-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 15 Jul 2000 23:27:00 EDT Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 23:27:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Shoestring Acacia Sorry, but there is no way that we know of to keep the Shoestring Acacia from blossoming. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 15 Jul 2000 23:26:59 EDT Date: Sat, 15 Jul 2000 23:26:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Soil pH Most plants do best when the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.0 which is slightly acid. Yes both Hibiscus and Philodendron are acid loving plants. Good luck. Rod From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:18:31 EDT Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:18:31 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Kangaroo Paws I have some experience with Kangaroo paws..Container planting is the best way to go. That way plants can be moved to different locations until the optimum spot is found. Generally, the most common are species of Anigozanthos with red, yellow, orange or green woolly hairs on the plant. One, Macropidia fuliginosa is covered with black hairs and is called a Black paw by some. All Kangaroo paws are native to Australia, and we have a similar climate here in Arizona for growth. The problem is that different species or even some hybrids grow much better in different habitats, ie: sandy soils, shady woodland or even moist, boggy soils. Once the plants finish blooming, watering patterns need to be altered with some species, or the plant bloomed in the wrong conditions and exhausted itself. Without knowing for certain which Kangaroo paws you have tried, make sure the soil is well draining, a humus-sandy composition and lots of bright sunlight. Keep in mind these plants go dormant in the "winter months" (in Australia) and bloom in the spring and summer. Water should be very minimal in the winter months. Due to geography, these plants get kind of confused and want to be dormant during the summer here in Arizona..that is the time the "paws" need little water, but our hot, arid conditions prompt us to water profusely. Therefore, try mulching with bark chips and locate them to less intense sunlit areas. Hopefully this helps with the mortality rate of your Kangaroo paws. Valerie Meyers From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:31:19 EDT Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 14:31:19 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Barbara, I do not know if anyone responded to your question yet about eutrophication, photosynthesis, plant respiration, etc. A response to this would be lengthy and take time to write for you to read. I would suggest a good botany book for reference ...."Botany", by Moore, Clark and Vodopich, c: 1998. There are different types if photosynthesis (cacti and some succulents are CAM plants) and even their stomatal anatomy is different from other plants. C3 and C4 plants photosynthesize at different rates and respire in a myriad of levels Try searching the library or web sites as well. Good luck ! Valerie Meyers From dwquail@aol.com Sun, 16 Jul 2000 16:32:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 16:32:16 -0700 (MST) From: dwquail@aol.com dwquail@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have aphids real bad in the garden which is immediately adjacent to our aviary. I have tried pepper juice and a soap spray. Actually two or three sprays. Nothing helps they are horrible. I also tried diatamaceous earth which helped a little not much. Is there anything I can use that close to my birds which will kill aphids and not harm my birds. Garden on south side of aviary and wind blows from southwest most of the time. Chicken wire fencing separating the two. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:15:04 -0700 Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:15:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Aphids The following page has information on aphids and how to control them - http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm We generally recommend a strong blast of mild soapy water. An explanation appears in the above publication. Sue Bass Master Gardener dwquail@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We have aphids real bad in the garden which is immediately adjacent to our aviary. I have tried pepper juice and a soap spray. > Actually two or three sprays. Nothing helps they are horrible. I also tried diatamaceous earth which helped a little not much. Is there anything I can use that close to my birds which will kill aphids and not harm my birds. Garden on south side of aviary and wind blows from southwest most of the time. Chicken wire fencing separating > the two. Any help would be appreciated. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:24:28 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:24:28 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Joshua Tree I would suggest that you water your Joshua tree, which is actually a yucca, cautiously. How big is it? If it is in a container that is either 1 or 5 gallon in size, then water it very often for a couple of weeks, keeping it fairly moist but not saturated. Then in the fall (if you are planitng right now) back off to water it every couple of weeks, less if it rains. If at all possible wait to plant it until the fall. If the plant is large, it is tricky to find the right combination at first. Again wait until fall to plant if you can. Then water it very well (meaning long, deep soaks) weekly for 2-3 weeks. Expand the watering to twice that amount of time between waterings gradually working out to watering once a month. But watch the plant, they can be slow to establish and it is hard to know how much root is growing. All plants can lose some amount of leaves and/or stem in transplant, you just don't want it to go too far. Wish I could be more specific, but they aren't that clear about their transplant needs. Watch carefully, water deeply and infrequently, never daily or more than once a week, be sure the site has superb drainage, and best of luck. Mary Irish From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:26:45 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:26:45 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Pygmy date palm I wasn't sure if you meant that all the leaves (fronds) on one of your trunks was dead, or just many of them. If indeed it is all of them, and there is no green central bud, then the stem is dead and I would recommend that you remove it. If, however, there is a green bud, or it was only the lower leaves, then just prune out the dead leaves and the plant should recover well. Good luck, Mary From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:29:58 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:29:58 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Ocotillo The nursery is correct it will take a minimum of a 3-4 months to establish roots, sometimes much longer. Keep your plant well watered through the summer, once a week is fine. It should not need staking unless you live in an area of exceptional wind. Do not worry about whether or not it is setting leaves for at least a year, ocotillo areoften very slow to begin growing leaves after they have been transplanted. Water in a circle all round the plant at some distance, may 3-4 feet, from the trunk. The roots when they grow are wide and shallow. Good luck, Mary From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:32:35 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:32:35 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from AgInfo site (fwd) > > >A new comment has been posted to AgInfo > >Individual: Diana Drysh >Email: twodeez@uswest.net >City: Mesa State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: If this is not the correct site for my question, would you please >forward it to a site that may be able to answer my question. I have a >brazillian pepper tree, (I live in Mesa AZ) and each year that I've had it >it has almost completely lost it's leaves. I would like to know if this is >normal (I wouldn't think so) and what are the possibilities of why it is >doing this. This year it seems to be losing more leaves than at any time >before and I'm afraid I going to loose it. New sprouts seem to be budding >out but then some of them (the leaves) just fall off. Also what kind of >fertilizer is best for this tree, how often and how much water. This tree >is about four years old and approximately fifteen feet tall.Thank you, I'm >really worried about it and would appreciate your response.D. DryshMesa AZ >Category: Public > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From kacbws@redrivernet.com Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:16:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 16 Jul 2000 18:16:10 -0700 (MST) From: kacbws@redrivernet.com kacbws@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am a Master Gardener in Lake Havasu City. My question is: Olive trees - in general - how to prepare fruit - canning etc. From NV4ivy@aol.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:38:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:38:48 -0700 (MST) From: NV4ivy@aol.com NV4ivy@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page To whom it may concern, I would like to know what are the best kinds of grass for animals in the desert area? Also, what are the best kinds of trees,shrubs,flowers,and vines for the desert area? Thank you for your time and cooeration. Sincerely, Evelyn Winkler From PatBern7@aol.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 09:08:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 09:08:01 -0700 (MST) From: PatBern7@aol.com PatBern7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am fairly new to the area and still have not learned all of the things to do for citrus trees. The leaves on my Tangelo tree look like something has been eating them. There is tiny holes in the leaves, and the tree has been dropping leaves. Should I spray it for bugs, and if so what should I use? Also when is the best time to fertlize citrus trees? Also I have two separate spots in my back yard that I have Lantana plants. These plants have been in for 3 years. In one spot the Lantana is full of blooms, and in the other spot there is no blooms what-so-ever on the plant, even though the plant is very healthy looking. This is the first time I have had this problem. What could be wrong? From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Mon, 17 Jul 2000 10:53:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 10:53:25 -0700 (MST) From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net raymond.tierney2@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our tomatoes are green and show signs of bug infestation. What type spray is safe and effective for this condition? Thank You From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:02:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:02:35 -0700 (MST) From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net raymond.tierney2@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This is to correct my previous question on tomatoes being infested with bugs. It's not bugs. It startes with a brown/black spot on side opposite the stem. It then turns black and penetrates the fruite to the core. I just removed several small green tomatoes hoping to stop the spread of this disease, if that's what it is? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:36:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:36:14 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Blossom End Rot It sounds like what you are experiencing is blossom end rot. You can go to the following site for further information on this: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm You may also wish to take a look at the section on tomatoes in our on-line Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/tomatoes for information pertinent to growing tomatoes here in the desert. Sue Bass Master Gardener raymond.tierney2@gte.net wrote: > arid_gardener > This is to correct my previous question on tomatoes being infested with bugs. It's not bugs. It startes with a brown/black spot on side opposite the stem. It then turns black and penetrates the fruite to the core. I just removed several small green tomatoes hoping to stop the spread of this disease, if that's what it is? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:43:19 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 13:43:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Landscape choices Evelyn: It may be easiest for me to direct you to our on-line listing of publications that are available. To view this listing, please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some of the publications are available to view on line. These will be highlighted in the listings. There are publications which list options for trees, shrubs, vines, flowers, etc. You can also view our Master Gardener manual on-line for information on lawns at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good Luck! Please let us know if you require further assistance. Sue Bass Master Gardener NV4ivy@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > To whom it may concern, > I would like to know what are the best kinds of grass for animals in the desert area? Also, what are the best kinds of trees,shrubs,flowers,and vines for the desert area? Thank you for your time and cooeration. > Sincerely, > Evelyn Winkler > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 19:35:16 EDT Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 19:35:16 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Care It isn't often that insects cause a problem by eating the leaves on citrus. Unless the situation becomes severe I would not be concerned. Citrus should be fertilized three times a year, February March, April or May, and July or August. Check out the following website, a chapter from the Master Gardener Manual on irrigating citrus. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf I have the same problem with my lantana and don't have a positive answer, although I think watering has something to do with it. The question is " Why does Lantana , same species, same care bloom on one bush and another close by have no blooms " Mary Irish ,if you read this how about some input. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 19:35:17 EDT Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 19:35:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pepper tree loosing it's leaves --part1_de.772faa7.26a4f235_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dianne, The symptoms you describe sound as though the tree is not being irrigated properly. If you are not deep watering to three feet deep every 10 days to two weeks then you need to make some changes. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Most trees should be fertilized early in the spring with a high nitrogen fertilizer. One exception to that rule is the Queen Palm which needs a special fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_de.772faa7.26a4f235_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (rly-yb04.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.4]) by air-yb03.mail.aol.com (v75_b1.4) with ESMTP; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 11:33:40 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-yb04.mx.aol.com (v75.18) with ESMTP; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 11:32:41 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA12789; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:32:00 -0700 (MST) Received: from trifid.u.arizona.edu (trifid.U.Arizona.EDU [128.196.137.197]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA12744 for ; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:31:59 -0700 (MST) Received: from birch (birch.mac-coopext.arizona.edu [204.27.250.13]) by trifid.u.arizona.edu (8.8.8/8.8.8) with ESMTP id IAA18172 for ; Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:31:58 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20000717083219.00a2f8c0@ag.arizona.edu> X-Sender: cnoyes@ag.arizona.edu X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.2 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 08:32:35 -0700 To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: Carol Noyes Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from AgInfo site (fwd) Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 1.1 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener > > >A new comment has been posted to AgInfo > >Individual: Diana Drysh >Email: twodeez@uswest.net >City: Mesa State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: If this is not the correct site for my question, would you please >forward it to a site that may be able to answer my question. I have a >brazillian pepper tree, (I live in Mesa AZ) and each year that I've had it >it has almost completely lost it's leaves. I would like to know if this is >normal (I wouldn't think so) and what are the possibilities of why it is >doing this. This year it seems to be losing more leaves than at any time >before and I'm afraid I going to loose it. New sprouts seem to be budding >out but then some of them (the leaves) just fall off. Also what kind of >fertilizer is best for this tree, how often and how much water. This tree >is about four years old and approximately fifteen feet tall.Thank you, I'm >really worried about it and would appreciate your response.D. DryshMesa AZ >Category: Public > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - --part1_de.772faa7.26a4f235_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:00:21 -0700 Date: Mon, 17 Jul 2000 17:00:21 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Lantanas Blooming On the lantanas, could it be the color? Are they different colors? I notice that different colors do better at different times of year even though the leaves look fine. For example, right now in summer the yellow lantanas seem to be blooming profusely, but the purple ones aren't doing much at all. When it's cooler, however, like in the spring, the purple ones flower while the yellow ones seem to fade. In fact, it's this observation that is making me consider having both colors together. That way, maybe I can have color all the time -- maybe. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of PatBern7@aol.com Sent: Monday, July 17, 2000 9:08 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener I am fairly new to the area and still have not learned all of the things to do for citrus trees. The leaves on my Tangelo tree look like something has been eating them. There is tiny holes in the leaves, and the tree has been dropping leaves. Should I spray it for bugs, and if so what should I use? Also when is the best time to fertlize citrus trees? Also I have two separate spots in my back yard that I have Lantana plants. These plants have been in for 3 years. In one spot the Lantana is full of blooms, and in the other spot there is no blooms what-so-ever on the plant, even though the plant is very healthy looking. This is the first time I have had this problem. What could be wrong? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:18:43 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 07:18:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids Once the temps heat up, Ladybugs take off. Praying Mantis are around now. I have several in my garden which have shown up on their own. However, they are not discriminate at what they eat, beneficial insects or pests. I'm not even sure if they would go after aphids with other large insects around. Beside Ladybugs, Lacewings are another favored predator of aphids but they also are more likely to be feeding on them in the Spring. I checked out the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver for additional information on aphid control. The book states that to encourage the adult forms of aphid-hunting insects, interplant vegetables with nectar plants, such as flowering herbs. You might try this next season. Soft-bodied aphids can also be killed by spraying plants with insecticidal soap or with the botanical insecticide neem, or by dusting leaves and stems with diatomaceous earth (which I believe you said you have already tried). You have to take care to apply these treatments to the undersides of leaves. Let's see if any other Master Gardeners have some suggestions in light of your aviary being in close proximity to your garden. How about it, anyone? Sue Bass Master Gardener DWQUAIL@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/16/00 6:09:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time, > sjbass@uswest.net writes: > > << http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm > > >> > Thank you. I had checked that out and tried it before e-mailing you. So far > I > seem to be wasting my time. Do you know if ladybugs or praying mantid's > will > survive this miserable heat if I bring some in? From Logroll603@aol.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:11:13 EDT Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 13:11:13 EDT From: Logroll603@aol.com Logroll603@aol.com Subject: [AG] Problem with Oleanders I moved into a new home at Arizona Traditions (Surprise) in May 99. Shortly thereafter, my landscaper planted seven pink tree type Oleanders, five along a stone wall and two on either ends in the back and also two shrub (bush) type pink Oleanders on the other side of the house to match (compliment) those of my neighbors. They bloomed beautifully. But that was then and this is now. The two pink bush Oleanders are blooming beautiful with few of the green pods. The other Oleanders have produced prodigious amounts of these four inch green pods and few blooms. Is this a result of giving them too much water? But then I have given the same amount of water to the two Oleander bushes and they are thriving and producing blooms. What can I do to get right with my Oleanders? I have really appreciate your advice. My Shamel Ash in the front with the leaf burn is now looking better that I have increased its deep watering. I bought the book that you suggested and it is really an excellent research source on the plants of our area. Sincerely, George Nichols Arizona Traditions Surprise, AZ 85374 Logroll603@aol.com GeorgeNichols@email.msn.com FAX: 1-623-214-3270 From lsteen@as.arizona.edu Tue, 18 Jul 2000 10:21:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 10:21:18 -0700 (MST) From: lsteen@as.arizona.edu lsteen@as.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of ground cover can you suggest for planting around a fish pond, full sun. It needs to grow over rocks and not shed so as not to muck up pond pump. Thanks From ClaireASP@aol.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:08:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 11:08:32 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just had a 36" box Shamal Ash tree planted. The fellow at Moon Gardens said that I should deep water it everyday for the first two weeks; after that,every three days, during the summer. Does this sound right to you? I surely don't want to loose it because it was an expensive tree! How often should it be watered during the cooler months. We don't have a drip water system set up yet, so I will be hose watering. Thanks for any comments or suggestions. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:53:49 EDT Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:53:49 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash, newly planted, watering Claire, Since the nursery is responsible for the warranty on the newly planted tree, I would suggest that you follow their instructions. They do seem a bit high, but the Shamel Ash is a very thirsty tree. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From cminer03@aol.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:01:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:01:16 -0700 (MST) From: cminer03@aol.com cminer03@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two Brazilian Pepper trees with double trunks that come out of the ground in a V shape. These were planted in January and are approximately 8 to 10 feet tall. I water them every 7 to 10 days by a slow trickle for 6 to 8 hours. Suddenly in the last two weeks on both trees the leaves have wilted, turned brown and are now dropping off on only one side of each V. What could have gone wrong and is there any way to save them? Thank you. CJ From cminer03@aol.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:55:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 19:55:41 -0700 (MST) From: cminer03@aol.com cminer03@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a ficus nitilda that was planted in January and has a trunk size of about 3 to 4 inches in diameter and is 16 to 20 foot tall. In the past week many of the existing leaves and new leaves are getting dark brown dry spots right in the middle of each leave. We are deep root watering every 7 to 10 days with a slow trickle for 6 to 8 hours. What could be causing these spots? Thank you. CJ From clydic@netzone.com Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:14:44 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 17:14:44 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe aphids, once washed off a plant, are unable to return to it. Possibly a good washing with a strongspray from the hose would help. Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener Associate -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:19 AM To: DWQUAIL@aol.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids arid_gardener Once the temps heat up, Ladybugs take off. Praying Mantis are around now. I have several in my garden which have shown up on their own. However, they are not discriminate at what they eat, beneficial insects or pests. I'm not even sure if they would go after aphids with other large insects around. Beside Ladybugs, Lacewings are another favored predator of aphids but they also are more likely to be feeding on them in the Spring. I checked out the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver for additional information on aphid control. The book states that to encourage the adult forms of aphid-hunting insects, interplant vegetables with nectar plants, such as flowering herbs. You might try this next season. Soft-bodied aphids can also be killed by spraying plants with insecticidal soap or with the botanical insecticide neem, or by dusting leaves and stems with diatomaceous earth (which I believe you said you have already tried). You have to take care to apply these treatments to the undersides of leaves. Let's see if any other Master Gardeners have some suggestions in light of your aviary being in close proximity to your garden. How about it, anyone? Sue Bass Master Gardener DWQUAIL@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 7/16/00 6:09:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time, > sjbass@uswest.net writes: > > << http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm > > >> > Thank you. I had checked that out and tried it before e-mailing you. So far > I > seem to be wasting my time. Do you know if ladybugs or praying mantid's > will > survive this miserable heat if I bring some in? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From j_harrell@NetZero.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:57:18 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 20:57:18 -0700 From: Jackie and Bill Harrell j_harrell@NetZero.net Subject: [AG] Squash bugs Hi, Oh, dear, the Master Gardener Manual just tells me to destroy these things, and they are out there in droves on my winter squash plants. Last season they decimated my zucchini - help! Isn't there anything like that Bacillus stuff that would kill them? Otherwise, I indeed will go out and scoop them up into cans or something until maybe I can get ahead of them. So far I'm washing them off with strong water spray, leaf by leaf. Do they drown? The Squeemish Gardner, Jackie _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html From jennifurn@netzero.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:03:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:03:18 -0700 (MST) From: jennifurn@netzero.net jennifurn@netzero.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am not sure what is best to use on my tiff (e-z sod) lawn. Amonium sulphate, Ironite, or something like a "Scotts" lawn fertilizer. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:17:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:17:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Squash bugs According to the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, clean up weeds and plant debris each fall, to prevent adult squash bugs from overwintering. Nymphs and adults can be kiled by spraying the undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap. For severe infestations, spray the undersides of leaves with an insecticide containing rotenone, applied according to label directions. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Jackie and Bill Harrell wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > > Oh, dear, the Master Gardener Manual just tells me to destroy these > things, and they are out there in droves on my winter squash plants. > Last season they decimated my zucchini - help! Isn't there anything > like that Bacillus stuff that would kill them? Otherwise, I indeed will > go out and scoop them up into cans or something until maybe I can get > ahead of them. So far I'm washing them off with strong water spray, > leaf by leaf. Do they drown? > > The Squeemish Gardner, Jackie > > _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ > http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:24:08 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:24:08 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids Washing off with a strong spray nozzle works for me. Bu it has to be repeated every week. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Carol Lydic To: Sue Bass ; Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 5:14 PM Subject: RE: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids > arid_gardener > Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe aphids, once washed off a plant, are > unable to return to it. Possibly a good washing with a strongspray from the > hose would help. > > Carol Lydic > Gila County Master Gardener Associate > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass > Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 7:19 AM > To: DWQUAIL@aol.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Re: Control of Aphids > > > arid_gardener > Once the temps heat up, Ladybugs take off. Praying Mantis are around now. > I > have several in my garden which have shown up on their own. However, they > are > not discriminate at what they eat, beneficial insects or pests. I'm not > even > sure if they would go after aphids with other large insects around. Beside > Ladybugs, Lacewings are another favored predator of aphids but they also are > more > likely to be feeding on them in the Spring. I checked out the Sunset > Western > Garden Problem Solver for additional information on aphid control. The book > states that to encourage the adult forms of aphid-hunting insects, > interplant > vegetables with nectar plants, such as flowering herbs. You might try this > next > season. Soft-bodied aphids can also be killed by spraying plants with > insecticidal soap or with the botanical insecticide neem, or by dusting > leaves > and stems with diatomaceous earth (which I believe you said you have already > tried). You have to take care to apply these treatments to the undersides > of > leaves. > > Let's see if any other Master Gardeners have some suggestions in light of > your > aviary being in close proximity to your garden. How about it, anyone? > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > DWQUAIL@aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 7/16/00 6:09:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time, > > sjbass@uswest.net writes: > > > > << http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm > > > > >> > > Thank you. I had checked that out and tried it before e-mailing you. So > far > > I > > seem to be wasting my time. Do you know if ladybugs or praying mantid's > > will > > survive this miserable heat if I bring some in? > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:49:34 -0700 Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:49:34 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Squash bugs In addition to the remedies Sue recommended, many on usenet people are reporting good results using neem oil. But use it only if the insect is specified on the label. Also be certain of the insect ID. I have never had a problem with squash bugs. Did not think they were a problem ere. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Jackie and Bill Harrell To: arid gardener Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 8:57 PM Subject: [AG] Squash bugs > arid_gardener > Hi, > > Oh, dear, the Master Gardener Manual just tells me to destroy these > things, and they are out there in droves on my winter squash plants. > Last season they decimated my zucchini - help! Isn't there anything > like that Bacillus stuff that would kill them? Otherwise, I indeed will > go out and scoop them up into cans or something until maybe I can get > ahead of them. So far I'm washing them off with strong water spray, > leaf by leaf. Do they drown? > > The Squeemish Gardner, Jackie > > _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ > http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rivaslg@earhlink.net Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:56:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 21:56:12 -0700 (MST) From: rivaslg@earhlink.net rivaslg@earhlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I have a beautiful specimen Aloe plicatillis. It is getting a bit taller than I would like and I was wondering if I cut it back will it get new growth on the branch that I cut or will that brach be forever a stump? These are rather rare where I live and I don't want to disfigure it accidentally. Thank you so much for your help. TR From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:50:23 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:50:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Removing Cat's Claw I apologize if you have already received a response. But I suspect that any herbicide that contains glyphosate will do the trick for you [Roundup, Finale, etc.]. The trick to this working well is to apply to vigorously growing plants. So, let the plant grow back, water it well, then spray with this herbicide, which is a systemic and does not stay active in the soil. Give a week or two for the plant to respond, then start watering again. If it comes back, reapply the herbicide. If not, you know the mission is accomplished. Linda Guy Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:53:13 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:53:13 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Turf Selection You're in luck. Our Master Gardener Manual is online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ and the chapter on lawns has a terrific discussion on both summer and winter lawn selection. Linda Guy Master Gardener dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us wrote: > arid_gardener > Please help me select a turf for residential use. I would like a turf that: > 1. has low water use > 2. relatively low maintenance, not a lot of thatch build up quickly. > 3. Low pollen production for allergies > 4. Does not spread into gardens aggressively > 5. Does not have a broad stem and cut be cut with non-reel type tiff mower. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:00:19 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:00:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Burnt Tips on Spanish Daggar Yucca Although I do not have your particular yucca, most all of mine experience brown tips in the hottest summer months. You can tidy them up if you'd like, in the fall when the heat has passed. If you do so now, the tips will probably continue to be a bit burnt, so you'd just be shortening the plant material. By the way, Judy Mielke suggests [in her book Native Plants for SW Landscapes] that you leave the thatch to provide protection against pests and frost in winter. Her book also suggests that this plant is a native of higher elevations [2,700 to 6,700 feet] so the burn may be the plant's response to our lower desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener KSWagner2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a Spanish Dager Yucca. The tips of the leaves appear to be burned as if someone might have used a lighter. > The plant is in full sun on the south side of the house. > Can you give me some idea of what the problem might be? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:11:52 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:11:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Houseplant Nutrition Check out our online publication on Indoor Plants at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants I believe you will find what you seek there. Linda Guy Master Gardener kmieb@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello... I have a couple of questions I was hoping you might answer.The first one has to do with my potted plants and their diet. I have been giving them fish emulsion and am sure that they have enough nitrogen but I can see that they are lacking some other important nutrients. So here is my question, What nutrients might they be lacking and where can I find an organic fertilizer that will do the trick. My second question has to do with my chiles and these brown spots on them. Could these spots be signs of blossom-end rot? Thank you so much for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:18:36 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:18:36 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Herb Information #1 Besides the nurseries like Tip Top, I also look for herbs at Harpers and particularly Bakers in Arcadia which is where I live. #2 Do you have a botanical name for the chive that you seek? I have seen regular chives, garlic chives [white flower] and society garlic [lilac flower] here in town and I have them all. #3 This is a good time of year to plant summer annuals like basil. But I would personally wait for fall to plant the mediterranean perennials [oregano, rosemary, marjoram, etc.] which don't like alot of water once established. The dilemma will be to determine if they are getting just enough water to get established in the height of the summer's heat without drowning roots. Not to say it can't be done, but I think your success rate will be higher come fall. This is also when to plant winter annuals like parsley, cilantro, anise, etc. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jessica Turvey wrote: > arid_gardener > > Question #1: > Besides Tip Top Nurseries and their kind, where else would you recommend that I purchase healthier herbs. > Question #2: > I have been looking for a broad leafed chive called "curly chive" to plant in my garden and have been unable to locate it. > > Question #3: > Is this time of year okay to plant herbs. I am getting mixed messages in the literature. I should mention that my garden faces west but is partially shaded by a tree. > > Thanks much ! > > Jess T. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 11:21:37 EDT Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 11:21:37 EDT From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Fertilizing turf Ammonium sulfate, Ironite, or all purpose (Scotts, Vigoro, etc).... Which one to use? If this is a newly established tiff lawn (2-3 months), I would use a complete, all purpose fertilizer, those that contain nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) in their composition. Select one that also has iron in it (most will). This way you will encourage growth, continued root and stolon development and help with "greening" (the iron does this) throughout the summer months (active watering makes grass look chlorotic, or yellowish). Try to buy a fertilizer that is homogenous in texture (not pellets, but more granular and uniform) as these are easier to apply for uniformity. Time release is OK, but follow the directions and time limits between applications. If you use ammonium sulfate, this is a single fertilizer (Nitrogen only) and you could "burn" the turf and this type requires a good thorough watering with application. On well established lawns this is a great fertilizer for rapid growth. I would rotate use of this type with other balance fertilizers. Ironite has very little nitrogen content and is structured to green up turf and plants that need iron to overcome and prevent chlorotic conditions. There are other macro and micro fertilizing elements as well. Again this is a good supplement fertilizer for a boost. Just read some of the labels of the fertilizer products you are interested in to find what you are looking for. Valerie Meyers From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:21:49 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:21:49 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Plants for Planter Boxes It is hard to answer your question without more information on exposure and what specifically you would like [perennials, flowering annuals that would need to be changed seasonally; shrub, etc.] So I will recommend that you take a look at our list of Home Horticulture publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top to see what we have available. Instructions for ordering are on this page and, if you are lucky, your public library will have a binder filled with these publications in the reference section, call code 635. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jfuerte@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I need to fill my planters outside. > There are 3 of them imbedded in my soil. > They are about2 square feet each. I tried > to plant flowers that are low maintenance > because i am a poor gardener. > Can you give me an inexpensive, hardy, > semi-self sustaining, pretty plant to put > into them? > Thank you so much for wanting to help me > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:24:29 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:24:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] citrus questions I've forwarded your question to our citrus expert in Yuma and hope for a reply very soon. I suspect either phytophthera root rot, or less likely texas/cotton root rot, but I'd like his input and advice before proceeding further with your response. Linda Guy Master Gardener Loganrca@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have three citrus trees in my yard. In the past year I have had to replace > two of the trees. It looks like I will need to replace a third this fall. > > My first question is, I have an orange tree that bloomed very well this > spring. It started new growth and new leaves. All the fruit fell off and > the leaves stopped growing. The leaves stayed on the tree but only developed > to about 1/8 the size they should be. The tree is showing signs of sun burn. > Should I be making plans of removing this tree, or is there hope that the > tree can be saved? If so what can I do to save it? > > My second question deals with the fact that the remaining two trees have > yellow sections in them. I have fertilized the trees with good fertilizer > recommended by the nursery and have give treatments of iron as recommended. > This does not seem to have changed the situation at all. Also I am following > the recommended watering guidelines. Is there anything else I can do too > help these trees? > > Would there be areas that just cannot support citrus trees? > > I hope you can shed some light on my problems with citrus trees. Thank you. > > Harry Logan > loganrca@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:26:24 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:26:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Geranium and Chrysanthemum Sunburn Assuming these are not container plants that can be moved to some shady relief in the afternoons, I would not trim the dried material, which is preventing the rest of the plant from further sun damage, until we experience relief from the heat this autumn. Linda Guy Master Gardener cmarkley794@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I was wondering if I could cut back some > chrysanthmums and geraniums? They have been > burned by the sun. If I can't do it now when can I? > Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From johnaq6@home.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:55:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 07:55:16 -0700 (MST) From: johnaq6@home.com johnaq6@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have just moved to the East Valley from Minnesota and we are in desperate need of a quality landscaper to do some landscaping for us in our backyard. We are in the process of putting in a pool and we need to have someone tell us what kind of plants and cushes that we can put in the backyard. Our pools should be comnpleted within the next couple of weeks, so that we can start with our landscaping. Our backyard is mostly FULL sun and we need to have plants and bushes that will tolereate the full sun. CAN YOU PLEASE GET ME SOME ADVICE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. We are looking for some color - no rose bushes - for our landscaping project. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!! John Wedemeyer From johnaw6@home.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:08:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:08:35 -0700 (MST) From: johnaw6@home.com johnaw6@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have just moved to the East Valley (MESA) from Bloomington, MN. I am putting in a pool/spa in my backyard and I need to get some advice on what type of plants and bushes to plant - IN FULL SUN - so that I can enjoy my retirement home. I have talked to MANY landscapers and nurseries and I am getting differnt advice from all of them on what to have planted. I NEED YOUR HELP. Can you recommend a reputable landscape company that does a good job, but does not charge enoymous fees? I would be so appreciative. I am legaly blind and I am not able to do the work myself, otherwise I would do so. PLEASE CONFIRM AS QUICKLY AS POSSBILE AS MY POOL SHOULD BE DONE WITHIN THE NEXT WEEK OR TWO. Thank you for your quick response. John Wedemeyer From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:32:17 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:32:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Tangelo Problems I have forwarded your question to our citrus expert in Yuma, and hope for a response in the next few days. Citrus typically loves irrigated lots, and I wonder if one of the fungal rots that attack citrus is in your soil. I have never heard of the strategy to severely prune the citrus, particularly now when most susceptible to sunburn. But let's wait to see how our 'guru' responds. Linda Guy Master Gardener kkturner@srpnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I need advise about an orlando tangelo tree. It is a young tree I had planted 2 years ago. It is about 5 feet tall. I have an irrigated lot. About a week ago, all the leaves suddenly tried. The wood still appears to be green but there are no functioning leaves left. It has been suggested I can severely prune the tree and it might come back. Is this possible? If so I need more exact instructions and a timeframe. I'd appreciate any suggestions! You can also phone me at 602-236-6969 or 480-835-0545 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:40:00 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:40:00 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Silver Maple Problems in Utah. Permit me to suggest you pose the question to the staff and Master Gardener volunteers at your own county's cooperative extension office. You can fine the phone number in the government listings of the phone book. They will be ever so much more familiar with your particular climate and issues than we are in the low desert of Phoenix. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener shirleyc@erda.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Utah. I have a silver maple that has turned in color. Leaves on end of branches are of light green. How can this be treated? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:34:44 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:34:44 -0700 From: Glenn C. Wright gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #239 - 26 msgs
From: barbarasloss@yahoo.com
To:
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have a botany question becuase I am interested in eutrophication and plant respiration and how that reduces the amount of oxygen in the water. How much of the oxygen that is produced by a plant during photosynthesis is used during respiration? Does a plant just photosynthesize more than it respires?
Another question that I have is: In desert plants, do the stomata open more with increased heat and wind or just open at night?

thank you for your responses. -barbara


Hello Barbara:

You have asked a question that seems simple, yet it is not so easy to answer.  After some research, I found a statement that the rate of carbon dioxide production due to respiration in plants is about 30% (range 20% to 50%) of the rate of CO2 fixation in photosynthesis.  Since 1 mole of oxygen is released for every mole of carbon dioxide fixed (used) during photosynthesis, and one mole of oxygen is used for every mole of carbon dioxide produced during respiration, then I suspect that the same relationship would exist between oxygen produced and used.  So, to put it simply, I suspect that a plant produces from 2 to 5 times more oxygen during photosynthesis than it uses during respiration.  Of course, not all the oxygen produced is actually released to the atmosphere or used by plant respiration.  A small portion is used within the plant during the oxygen fixation cycle.

On to your second question - actually a lot easier one.  Most desert plants, such as cactus have a special photosynthetic mechanism called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM), rather than the typical mechanism called C4, which is found in plants in temperate zones.  Both these mechanisms serve to concentrate CO2 in the areas of the leaf where CO2 is needed for the carbohydrate building (dark reactions) of photosynthesis.  The disadvantage of a C4 plant in the desert is that CO2 must enter the leaf via the stomata, yet the daytime dry desert climate causes the stomata to be closed, so CO2 can't get in and accumulate to sufficient concentrations.  However, a CAM desert plant opens its stomata at night, allowing CO2 to enter.  The CO2 is then attached to malic acid in the cells.  Then during the day, the stomata close, the CO2 is decoupled from the malic acid, but it can't escape to the atmosphere because the stomata are closed.  Instead, sufficient quantities of CO2 have accumulated so that the carbohydrate building reactions can occur efficiently.  So, you are right, most desert plants open their stomata at night.

This is probably more than you wanted to know, but I thought you might be interested.

GCW
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 520-726-0458
FAX: 520-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu From gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:36:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:36:47 -0700 From: Glenn C. Wright gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Photosynthesis, respiration and desert plants
From: barbarasloss@yahoo.com
To:
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page

I have a botany question becuase I am interested in eutrophication and plant respiration and how that reduces the amount of oxygen in the water. How much of the oxygen that is produced by a plant during photosynthesis is used during respiration? Does a plant just photosynthesize more than it respires?
Another question that I have is: In desert plants, do the stomata open more with increased heat and wind or just open at night?

thank you for your responses. -barbara

Hello Barbara:

You have asked a question that seems simple, yet it is not so easy to answer.=A0 After some research, I found a statement that the rate of carbon dioxide production due to respiration in plants is about 30% (range 20% to 50%) of the rate of CO2 fixation in photosynthesis.=A0 Since 1 mole of oxygen is released for every mole of carbon dioxide fixed (used) during photosynthesis, and one mole of oxygen is used for every mole of carbon dioxide produced during respiration, then I suspect that the same relationship would exist between oxygen produced and used.=A0 So, to put it simply, I suspect that a plant produces from 2 to 5 times more oxygen during photosynthesis than it uses during respiration.=A0 Of course, not all the oxygen produced is actually released to the atmosphere or used by plant respiration.=A0 A small portion is used within the plant during the oxygen fixation cycle.

On to your second question - actually a lot easier one.=A0 Most desert plants, such as cactus have a special photosynthetic mechanism called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM), rather than the typical mechanism called C4, which is found in plants in temperate zones.=A0 Both these mechanisms serve to concentrate CO2 in the areas of the leaf where CO2 is needed for the carbohydrate building (dark reactions) of photosynthesis.=A0 The disadvantage of a C4 plant in the desert is that CO2 must enter the leaf via the stomata, yet the daytime dry desert climate causes the stomata to be closed, so CO2 can't get in and accumulate to sufficient concentrations.=A0 However, a CAM desert plant opens its stomata at night, allowing CO2 to enter.=A0 The CO2 is then attached to malic acid in the cells.=A0 Then during the day, the stomata close, the CO2 is decoupled from the malic acid, but it can't escape to the atmosphere because the stomata are closed.=A0 Instead, sufficient quantities of CO2 have accumulated so that the carbohydrate building reactions can occur efficiently.=A0 So, you are right, most desert plants open their stomata at night.

This is probably more than you wanted to know, but I thought you might be interested.

GCW
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 520-726-0458
FAX: 520-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu From saz621@primenet.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:59:09 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:59:09 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Aloe plicatilis I would strongly recommend that you do not cut it off or back. This aloe generally has one growing point and you will risk losing it entirely. Good luck, Mary Irish From gjjmarion@worldnet.att.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:36:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 08:36:53 -0700 (MST) From: gjjmarion@worldnet.att.net gjjmarion@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm located in the Tatum Ranch area of Cave Creek. My landscaping consists of desert type plants: Saguaro,agave,barrel cactus Lantana,Sage, Bird of Paradise bush and Tree, Potatoe Plant, Bougainvillea,bermuda grass, small garden of annuals that are suppose to be able to handle the heat. My question is what is the best watering schedule in days and amounts of water for this type of landscaping for each season? From papa-nannie@rkis.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:49:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:49:56 -0700 (MST) From: papa-nannie@rkis.com papa-nannie@rkis.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do prepare a see and propigate a mango from a seed? Is it possible to gro one in Arizona? Thank you very much. Also, how do prepare and maintain an Amirylus (spelling)? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 19 Jul 2000 13:38:32 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 13:38:32 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: What is Insecticidal Soap? I wasn't exactly how to explain what insecticidal soap is so I took a chance and "surfed the net". As luck would have it, I found an article put out by Washington State University on just this subject! You can read it by going to: http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/lpro002/lpro002.htm The brand I am most familiar with is Safer's. You can find it (and I'm sure other brands) at your local nursery or home improvement store. Sue Bass DWQUAIL@aol.com wrote: > Thank you I really appreciate your input. I did not use an insecticidal soap > what is that? From phz001@cs.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 13:08:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 13:08:26 -0700 (MST) From: phz001@cs.com phz001@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My palm trees have some brown and yellow on the leaves. Some of my plants seem to be slightly yellowing too. Does this mean they are not getting enough water? How often do palms need water? This is a new house for us and the landscaping was already here. I dont want to kill the plants but I am afraid I am. They are on a sprinkler system instead of a drip system and I dont think its enough. Should I hand water and fertilize or what. Help I dont have a green thumb! Thanks Karyn From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:38:46 EDT Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:38:46 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Palm tree care If the only water your trees are getting is from the turf irrigation, they are not getting enough water. They should be deep watered periodically to encourage the roots to go deeper and to flush the salt out of the root zone. Check out this website on palm tree care, I think it will be helpful to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf If you haven't fertilized your palms this year, do so right away with a special fertilizer made for palms. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From prdimas@mindspring.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:15:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:15:55 -0700 (MST) From: prdimas@mindspring.com prdimas@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am thinking of planting grape vines to both cover an arbor and provide some fruit. Is it possible to locate mature vines for transplant? Thanks, From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 21:02:08 EDT Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 21:02:08 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus nitida with brown spots on leaves CJ, Your Ficus is only 6 months old and has not had time to become established, so I would keep the irrigation interval to not more than 7 days and be sure it is deepwatered. The question came up at the U of A Extension diagnostic session about ficus nitida developing brown or black spots on the leaves. The consensus was that California grown trees were prone to developing these black spots on the leaves, whereas Arizona grown trees did not do so. If these spots continue to grow in size I would recommend that you bring samples of leaves affected to the U. of A. Extension at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040. This diagnostic session takes place early Friday morning. I just noticed your 2nd email in which you asked about Brazilian Peppers. The same answer would apply on irrigation interval. Texas Root Rot usually does not show up until late summer, and yet our early heat may have caused it to manifest itself earlier in the summer. The symptoms of rapid wilt and leaves showing these symptoms on one side of the tree are typical of Texas Root Rot. Another fungi that produces similiar symptoms is Verticilium Wilt, however it is a cool weather disease. Here is a case where you need to bring in samples and with the peppers bring small finger size root samples. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 20 Jul 2000 06:48:38 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 06:48:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Processing Olives This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------D9977C5B3FFC79554F50A545 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Attached is the information you seek, courtesy of Cathy Rymer, one of our Maricopa County Instructional Specialists. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------D9977C5B3FFC79554F50A545 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 44458 invoked by uid 0); 19 Jul 2000 16:16:47 -0000 Received: from mail7.uswest.net (204.147.80.25) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Jul 2000 16:16:47 -0000 Received: (qmail 13999 invoked from network); 19 Jul 2000 16:16:45 -0000 Received: from trifid.u.arizona.edu (128.196.137.197) by mail7.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Jul 2000 16:16:45 -0000 Received: from acoma.mac-coopext.arizona.edu (acoma.mac-coopext.arizona.edu [204.27.250.49]) by trifid.u.arizona.edu (8.8.8/8.8.8) with ESMTP id JAA30928 for ; Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:16:43 -0700 Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:25:42 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20000719091434.00a52c40@ag.arizona.edu> From: "Cathy Rymer" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: crymer@ag.arizona.edu X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 Subject: Re: [Fwd: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page] In-Reply-To: <3975CC45.63D4A0BD@uswest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, The publication on processing olives is available from the Family Consumer Sciences department (home ec) here at the Extension office. Ask for publication HE-196 Curing Olives (also listed under #283016) Contact Susie Lyons at slyons@ag.arizona.edu or call 602-470-8086 x 341 Hope this helps. Cathy At 08:41 AM 07/19/2000 -0700, you wrote: >Who do we contact [and email address please] in the Home Ec section with >this question? Thanks! > >arid_gardener >I am a Master Gardener in Lake Havasu City. My question is: Olive trees >- in general - how to prepare fruit - canning etc. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --------------D9977C5B3FFC79554F50A545-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 20 Jul 2000 06:56:53 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 06:56:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Tangelo Problems This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------26F6C82FB9F91E6F48AA5C58 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is substantially all of Dr. Wright's reply. If you care to look up any of the diseases we discussed, use the index on the homepage of our website http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ "Don't do it, don't do it, don't do it." [severely prune back tree!] "I would suggest the possibility of fertilizer burn, or someone dumping chemicals, such as those from a water softener nearby. If the leaves are dead, but the wood is alive, it suggests that the feeder roots are not functioning, or are burnt off, or that something was sprayed on the tree. In any event, this person needs as much branch structure to hold the new leaves as possible. You could ask about Phytophthora, but I have not seen rapid leaf loss due to this fungal pathogen. Fusarium has led to rapid tree death of young trees in our area, but leaves and branches all die in this case." Good luck! Linda Guy P.S. My husband, Frank Young, is also a SRP employee. Do you know him? --------------26F6C82FB9F91E6F48AA5C58 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 64490 invoked by uid 0); 19 Jul 2000 17:01:53 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Jul 2000 17:01:53 -0000 Received: (qmail 37580 invoked from network); 19 Jul 2000 17:01:52 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Jul 2000 17:01:52 -0000 Received: from Lemonhead (Lemon.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.3]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id KAA05320 for ; Wed, 19 Jul 2000 10:01:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 09:53:37 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Glenn C. Wright" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: gwright@ag.arizona.edu X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.0 Subject: Re: [Fwd: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page] In-Reply-To: <3975C3CD.AD02FA3F@uswest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 At 08:05 AM 07/19/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>I've never heard of the strategy this person was recommended [severely
>pruning back in July after almost comlete leaf drop]. Your thoughts are
>appreciated.

Hi Linda:

Don't do it, don't do it, don't do it.

I would suggest the possibility of  fertilizer burn, or someone dumping chemicals, such as those from a water softener nearby.  If the leaves are dead, but the wood is alive, it suggests that the feeder roots are not functioning, or are burnt off, or that something was sprayed on the tree.  In any event, this person needs as much branch structure to hold the new leaves as possible.  You could ask about Phytophthora, but I have not seen rapid leaf loss due to this fungal pathogen.  Fusarium has led to rapid tree death of youn trees in our area, but leaves and branches all die in this case.

GCW



>arid_gardener
>I need advise about an orlando tangelo tree.=A0 It is a young tree I had planted 2 years ago. It is about 5 feet tall. I have an irrigated lot.=A0 About a week ago, all the leaves suddenly tried.=A0 The wood still appears to be green but there are no functioning leaves left. It has been suggested I can severely prune the tree and it might come back.=A0 Is this possible?=A0 If so I need more exact instructions and a timeframe.=A0 I'd appreciate any suggestions!=A0 You can also phone me at 602-236-6969 or 480-835-0545
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Arid_gardener mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener=
>Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/> >
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 520-726-0458
FAX: 520-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------26F6C82FB9F91E6F48AA5C58-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 20 Jul 2000 07:00:42 -0700 Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 07:00:42 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Propagating Mangos Perhaps someone else will have the specific information you seek. I do not, but can suggest that you contact the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. You can contact them directly on the web by returning to our home page at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ They will be the first listing under the Garden Clubs section, and it is a hyperlink for your use. Linda Guy Master Gardener papa-nannie@rkis.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do prepare a see and propigate a mango > from a seed? Is it possible to gro one > in Arizona? Thank you very much. > > Also, how do prepare and maintain an Amirylus > (spelling)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Judy.Hall@asu.edu Thu, 20 Jul 2000 08:36:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 08:36:18 -0700 (MST) From: Judy.Hall@asu.edu Judy.Hall@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Herb info I've heard that A&P Herb is good, though I've not been there myself. From wildem21@bigplanet.com Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:55:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 15:55:57 -0700 (MST) From: wildem21@bigplanet.com wildem21@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I buy improved varities of mesquite? I have heard they exist but I have also heare the improved varieties have little or no tolerance for freezing temperatures. I will be grateful for any information anyone can share. From eholland@wallace.com Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:42:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 09:42:29 -0700 (MST) From: eholland@wallace.com eholland@wallace.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Question-where can i find proof that plants produce more oxygen through photosynthesis than they use through respiration ? thanks Ed From TPET1934@AOL.COM Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:18:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 11:18:28 -0700 (MST) From: TPET1934@AOL.COM TPET1934@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ALL MY MID-IRON GRASS IS TURING TO STRAW, IT SEEMS TO BE DYING OFF. From Mertlo@MSN.com Thu, 20 Jul 2000 15:30:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 15:30:16 -0700 (MST) From: Mertlo@MSN.com Mertlo@MSN.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Don't know if you answer vegetable garden questions but......when should I plant sweet corn for a fall crop? From Tanya.Mure@nau.edu Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:36:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 20 Jul 2000 12:36:16 -0700 (MST) From: Tanya.Mure@nau.edu Tanya.Mure@nau.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >From some quick research I have learned that prickly pear fruit can be anywhere between yellow to red. One of my friends has a prickly pear that had red fruit earlier this year and was looking forward to harvesting the next batch. Right now the fruit is yellow and is falling off the cactus, when it is cut open it smells o.k. but looks mushy (technical term), almost like it had been left on the plant too long. Help! From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:50:52 EDT Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:50:52 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Pill Bugs Do you think pill bugs (sow bugs) would go for a pan of beer? They got ahead of my Gecko in the greenhouse. Thx Beverly From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 08:46:03 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 08:46:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea Volunteers "Volunteers" is the term often used when a plant self sows as yours is evidently doing. If you feel the need to clean them out, you might consider saving a few in containers to see what they become. Plants that have been hybridized often don't generate the same plant from seed [to duplicate the mother plant, you need to propagate from cuttings], but it doesn't mean you can't have some fun and see what comes from your seedlings. Linda Guy Master Gardener alice.terry@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Near the bouganvilla bush, where the blossoms drop off, I have little plants coming up. They are about 2 inches high, two to 6 leaves each, and the leaves look like the bouganvilla. However, the leaf stems are a reddish color. Could these be new bouganvilla bushes? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:11:29 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:11:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Potato Bugs Ahh, you brought back some memories of my days gardening with elementary schoolers. No matter how interesting I tried to make my material, I could NEVER compete with the 'roly-polys' in our school garden! Now, assuming we're talking about the same critter, based on my experience, these are typically just a nuisance pest [for adults] or a source of immense entertainment [if you are a child]. Basically, they chow down on and help decompose decaying matter, so they are found in these cooler, damp places. However, if the garden is a bit drier and the owner is fastidious about clearing decaying material, I suppose you might experience a bit of incursion on live plant material. I'm inclined to assume they just move onto an area thatthey prefer, particularly in this heat. I have never felt the need to do anything other than play with these! If you are bothered immensely by the volume, a bit of garden cleanup should do the trick. Linda Guy Master Gardener bdmart@wans.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in Mesa and have a huge population of potatoe bugs in our back yard. Are they harmful to the vegatation and if so how do we get rid of them? The kids find them fun to play with but I'd rather them not be here!! > > Thank you for any assistance you might be able to offer in this situation! > > Becky Martinez > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:26:20 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:26:20 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Strawberries George Brookbank has an entire chapter dedicated to strawberries in his book Desert Gardening [Fruit & Vegetables]; you should be able to find a copy in your library. You are better off surrounding the mother container with other pots onto which you have anchored the runners which are still attached to the mother plant. In a month or so you should have some vigorous roots at which point you can 'cut the cord'. Soil should be kept moist but not wet. If you notice chlorosis, water a bit less frequently. Linda Guy Master Gardener Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > (Hope this is the correct address. My addresses vanished with my computers' > brain.) > I have hanging baskets of strawberries and don't want to stick the runners > back in the baskets but would like to plant them elsewhere. How can I clip > them off and get them to grow roots without the mother plant? I tried > rooting them in water and they will start roots, but I don't want to soak the > crown like that and they die when I put them in soil. Thx - B > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:39:15 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:39:15 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pill Bugs I'm just reading George Brookbank's Desert Gardening Book on pillbugs, after responding to another related question. He has suggested a tied roll of damp newspaper left in the garden overnight, into which the pillbugs crawl and which you can then dispose of the next morning. I wonder if the same strategy would work for you in your greenhouse? Certainly try the beer as well [or water with sugar/molasses] and let us know which produced the best results. Linda Guy Master Gardener Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Do you think pill bugs (sow bugs) would go for a pan of beer? They got ahead > of my Gecko in the greenhouse. Thx Beverly > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:45:48 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:45:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Potato [Pill or Sow] Bugs I've just been reading George Brookbank's take on this bug, and I guess I'm in the minority in thinking of it strictly as a nuisance pest. Evidently it can eat fruit near the ground [strawberries, ripe melons, etc.] and is encouraged by the presence of excessive mulch, which, again creates a cooler damp environment that they prefer. However, I ran into his quite charming suggestion to trap them. Tie a roll of damp newspaper with string and leave it in the garden overnight. They will evidently crawl inside and you can dispose of the newspaper rolls in the morning. They just aren't that big of a problem for me, but it's because I tend to be a water rationer and don't use an excessive amount of mulch. My guess would be that my pill bugs are vacationing at your house! Linda Guy Master Gardener From Bgold38@aol.com Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:03:25 EDT Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:03:25 EDT From: Bgold38@aol.com Bgold38@aol.com Subject: [AG] =?UTF-8?Q?Critters=20Eating=20Flowers?= We have recently moved to the N.E. area of Scottsdale and have a lot of natural desert around our home. We now find that the types of flowers we enjoy are also very attractive to some type or types of critters with whom we share this territory. During the night they eat what we plant. Can anyone tell us what types of flowers we can plant out here that these critters will avoid? Any other helpful suggestions would also be appreciated. We think the critters are rabbits but aren't sure of that yet. Thanks in advance. luvvy@worldnet.att.net From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:56:14 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 09:56:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Newly Planted Citrus Requirements We have an excellent publication on citrus irrigation which you can call up at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus There are other publications which you would have to order, if you could not locate the Home Horticulture binder in the reference section of your public library [call code 635]. In general, citrus are not fertilized the first year planted, unless you have very poor soil. Deep irrigation is on a seven day interval in the summer, 2 to 4 weeks in the winter of the first year planted. Mulch helps maintain soil moisture and reduce tree stress. Remove it in November to allow soil exposure to winter sun. The trunks should be wrapped to prevent sunburn. Prune sparingly [only those terminals that shoot out in a non-uniform pattern]. You can also follow the citrus suggestions in our monthly Timely Tips feature at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bomark@desertlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What do you do with newly planted citrus trees this time of the year? Fertilizing, trimming, watering, etc. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 10:14:13 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 10:14:13 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Potato [Pill or Sow] Bugs I think it has to do with large populations. Sow bugs seem to prefer rotting or decayed material but if there is a large population, they will also go after the fresh stuff. I have even seen them on lower, green lettuce leaves. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid gardener server" Sent: Friday, July 21, 2000 9:45 AM Subject: [AG] Potato [Pill or Sow] Bugs > arid_gardener > I've just been reading George Brookbank's take on this bug, and I guess > I'm in the minority in thinking of it strictly as a nuisance pest. > Evidently it can eat fruit near the ground [strawberries, ripe melons, > etc.] and is encouraged by the presence of excessive mulch, which, again > creates a cooler damp environment that they prefer. > > However, I ran into his quite charming suggestion to trap them. Tie a > roll of damp newspaper with string and leave it in the garden overnight. > They will evidently crawl inside and you can dispose of the newspaper > rolls in the morning. > > They just aren't that big of a problem for me, but it's because I tend > to be a water rationer and don't use an excessive amount of mulch. My > guess would be that my pill bugs are vacationing at your house! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 10:23:31 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 10:23:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Fall Sweetcorn You can plant a mid season variety from now through August. Planting a short season variety before mid September will also usually work out okay. With the later plantings you run the risk of an early frost damaging the crop but we haven't had one of those for a few years. With later plantings, there is also less ear worm infestation in my experience. For the recommended schedules, see http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Olin ---- Original Message ----- From: > Don't know if you answer vegetable garden questions but......when should I plant sweet corn for a fall crop? > From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:26:37 EDT Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 13:26:37 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] sow bugs I just mulched the whole greenhouse a month ago with newspaper that went through my shredder. I did it because the room heats up terribly at this time of the year even with a shade screen over it and evap cooler its 90 all the time at best. Now the bugs are evenly spaced all over! They didn't seem to be a problem before I did this, at least they didn't eat up my tiny watermelon plants/blossoms/fruit. I also am water happy out there - it is such a little piece of heaven for me in this desert. I live against South Mountain and there is neither soil here or a flat place. I think my problem may be crickets since a large isolated spot can get eaten up overnight. I am going to try the molasses idea first before I scrap my mulch for the sowbugs. I have 17 grandchildren and I bet they would like the job of hunting down sowbugs too! Thank you very much for the bug help and the strawberry runners also. Beverly From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:35:02 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 11:35:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Oxygen Production through Photosynthesis Ed: We just had a similar question come in recently. It was answered by Glenn Wright, Ph.D. at the University of Arizona, Yuma Mesa Agricultural Center. Below is the question and his response regarding the amount of oxygen produced vs. the amount used in respiration. I hope this helps. Sue Bass Master Gardener arid_gardener From: barbarasloss@yahoo.com To: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a botany question becuase I am interested in eutrophication and plant respiration and how that reduces the amount of oxygen in the water. How much of the oxygen that is produced by a plant during photosynthesis is used during respiration? Does a plant just photosynthesize more than it respires? Another question that I have is: In desert plants, do the stomata open more with increased heat and wind or just open at night? thank you for your responses. -barbara Hello Barbara: You have asked a question that seems simple, yet it is not so easy to answer. After some research, I found a statement that the rate of carbon dioxide production due to respiration in plants is about 30% (range 20% to 50%) of the rate of CO2 fixation in photosynthesis. Since 1 mole of oxygen is released for every mole of carbon dioxide fixed (used) during photosynthesis, and one mole of oxygen is used for every mole of carbon dioxide produced during respiration, then I suspect that the same relationship would exist between oxygen produced and used. So, to put it simply, I suspect that a plant produces from 2 to 5 times more oxygen during photosynthesis than it uses during respiration. Of course, not all the oxygen produced is actually released to the atmosphere or used by plant respiration. A small portion is used within the plant during the oxygen fixation cycle. On to your second question - actually a lot easier one. Most desert plants, such as cactus have a special photosynthetic mechanism called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM), rather than the typical mechanism called C4, which is found in plants in temperate zones. Both these mechanisms serve to concentrate CO2 in the areas of the leaf where CO2 is needed for the carbohydrate building (dark reactions) of photosynthesis. The disadvantage of a C4 plant in the desert is that CO2 must enter the leaf via the stomata, yet the daytime dry desert climate causes the stomata to be closed, so CO2 can't get in and accumulate to sufficient concentrations. However, a CAM desert plant opens its stomata at night, allowing CO2 to enter. The CO2 is then attached to malic acid in the cells. Then during the day, the stomata close, the CO2 is decoupled from the malic acid, but it can't escape to the atmosphere because the stomata are closed. Instead, sufficient quantities of CO2 have accumulated so that the carbohydrate building reactions can occur efficiently. So, you are right, most desert plants open their stomata at night. This is probably more than you wanted to know, but I thought you might be interested. GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 520-726-0458 FAX: 520-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu _______________________________________________ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 21 Jul 2000 14:57:08 EDT Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 14:57:08 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Grass turning to straw It has been hot out there, have you been giving it enough water? We will need more info in order to give you an answer. Irrigation quantity and frequency, please measure the depth that a screwdriver will penetrate easily after you have watered. Age of grass Fertilizer applied ,when and how much Weedkiller Do you have calichi, and at what depth Any sign of insects or fungus Is the grass dead in patches or all over Are you watering with pool water What height and how often are you mowing Good luck Rod From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:08:28 -0700 Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 12:08:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Amaryllis I can help you with your question regarding Amaryllis. First we have to determine what type of Amaryllis you have. If you have Amaryllis belladona, also known as Belladona Lily, and Naked Lady then according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, page 149, this plant is hardy in mild-winter areas. It is native to South Africa. Bold, straplike leaves in clumps 2-3ft across in fall and winter; dormant late spring and early summer. In August, clusters of 4-12 trumpet-shaped, rosy pink, fragrant flowers bloom on top of bare, reddish brown stalks 2-3 ft tall. It will grow in almost any soil with no irrigation at all; very long lived. Plant right after bloom; set bulb top even with ground level. Lift and divide clumps infrequently; may not bloom for several years if disturbed at wrong time. If however, you have Hippeastrum, common name Amaryllis (these are the ones found in nurseries and grocery stores during the winter and grown as potted plants), the book states (page 323-324) that you can plant them November-February in pots in rich, sandy mix with added bonemeal or superphosphate. Allow 2-in. space between bulb and edge of pot. Set upper half of bulb above soil surface. Firm soil, water well, then keep barely moist until growth begins. Wet, airless soil causes root rot. When flowers fade, cut off stem, keep up watering; feed to encourage leaf growth. When leaves yellow, withhold water, let plants dry out. Repot in late fall or early winter. Sue Bass Master Gardener papa-nannie@rkis.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do prepare a see and propigate a mango > from a seed? Is it possible to gro one > in Arizona? Thank you very much. > > Also, how do prepare and maintain an Amirylus > (spelling)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From jandjm@earthlink.net Fri, 21 Jul 2000 20:46:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 20:46:05 -0700 (MST) From: jandjm@earthlink.net jandjm@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our 3-year old shammel ash tree leafed out late this spring. Checking the trunk we noted some gaps oozing sap. Attracted quite a few ants. In a few days the gaps healed, but left chevron-shaped patches up the trunk, but no more oozing sap. The tree looks healthy (the leaves are solid green, though not as full as a nearby "twin" shammel ash). The ants still crawl up it and we fear there is more "wounds" higher up and that the chevron patches on the lower trunk are signs of infection or fungus or bigger problems yet to come. Is there some treatment we should use now? From golfjan97@aol.com Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:54:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 21 Jul 2000 21:54:27 -0700 (MST) From: golfjan97@aol.com golfjan97@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I love my flower garden, but the heat is killing my garden. What type of flowering plants can I use. We water on a regular base and more if needed. The area is in my yard and has a southwest exposure. Thanks From a1228@amug.org Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:05:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 12:05:42 -0700 (MST) From: a1228@amug.org a1228@amug.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Dwarf Lime tree has many leaves that are curling. They are not discolored and the tree blooms and has fruit on it. The tree has been in the ground for 4 years and we deep water it every 15 days. From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat, 22 Jul 2000 13:01:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 13:01:41 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. What is my problem?? We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located on the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from them. Thank you. From dyach@earthlink.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 13:58:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 13:58:32 -0700 (MST) From: dyach@earthlink.net dyach@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I can't see to keep any of our shrubs, trees,and ground covering alive in our backyard. Our house is 2years old and we have replaced numerous palms, ground covering, and shrubs. We have an east/west running wall and our house faces north. We also just purchased a "Cottonwood" tree(that's what the sales person told us) but the cottonwoods I've seen on the internet look totally different than our tree. I want to make sure we don't have to replace this new tree in the near future. Any suggestions on what will thrive in our backyard? Debbie From gussiejean@earthlink.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 15:43:55 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 15:43:55 -0700 From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Small nectarines This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BFF3F3.A4EC1100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi. I've got a friend with a nectarine tree, and the fruit does not = grow as large as the ones that you get from the grocery store. The tree = looks great with healthy leaves. It gets sun at noon through the = afternoon. She only waters it 10 minutes every day with the turf = watering. I suggested that she start deep watering it two times a = week....6 hours on a low sprinkle. Maybe next year she will have larger = fruit. Was I right in my suggestion, and what should she be watering it = in the winter time? Thanks for your help.....Karen O. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BFF3F3.A4EC1100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi.  I've got a friend with a = nectarine=20 tree, and the fruit does not grow as large as the ones that you get from = the=20 grocery store.  The tree looks great with healthy leaves.  It = gets sun=20 at noon through the afternoon.  She only waters it 10 minutes every = day=20 with the turf watering.  I suggested that she start deep watering = it two=20 times a week....6 hours on a low sprinkle.  Maybe next year she = will have=20 larger fruit.  Was I right in my suggestion, and what should she be = watering it in the winter time?  Thanks for your help.....Karen=20 O.
------=_NextPart_000_0033_01BFF3F3.A4EC1100-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:46:05 EDT Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:46:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Lime Tree leaves curling A tiny insect called a thrip is probably the suspect that is causing citrus leaves to curl. Its damage is only cosmetic and it is seldom that it is necessary to use a pesticide for control. Good luck. Rod From gussiejean@earthlink.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 17:30:58 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 17:30:58 -0700 From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Small nectarines This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0080_01BFF402.997421A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is a repeat. Forgot to mention that she lives in Phoenix, AZ. =20 Hi. I've got a friend with a nectarine tree, and the fruit does not = grow as large as the ones that you get from the grocery store. The tree = looks great with healthy leaves. It gets sun at noon through the = afternoon. She only waters it 10 minutes every day with the turf = watering. I suggested that she start deep watering it two times a = week....6 hours on a low sprinkle. Maybe next year she will have larger = fruit. Was I right in my suggestion, and what should she be watering it = in the winter time? Thanks for your help.....Karen O. ------=_NextPart_000_0080_01BFF402.997421A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
This is a repeat.  Forgot to = mention that=20 she lives in Phoenix, AZ. 
 
Hi.  I've got a friend with a = nectarine=20 tree, and the fruit does not grow as large as the ones that you get from = the=20 grocery store.  The tree looks great with healthy leaves.  It = gets sun=20 at noon through the afternoon.  She only waters it 10 minutes every = day=20 with the turf watering.  I suggested that she start deep watering = it two=20 times a week....6 hours on a low sprinkle.  Maybe next year she = will have=20 larger fruit.  Was I right in my suggestion, and what should she be = watering it in the winter time?  Thanks for your help.....Karen=20 O.
------=_NextPart_000_0080_01BFF402.997421A0-- From THECARMAN681@CS.COM Sat, 22 Jul 2000 17:45:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 17:45:02 -0700 (MST) From: THECARMAN681@CS.COM THECARMAN681@CS.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page DEAR SIRS: I TOOK SOME LEAVES FROM MY TREE TO A NURSERY TODAY TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF INFESTATION PROBLEM I HAD, THEY TOLD ME THAT IT WAS VERY SMALL WASPS ( NAMED GAIL )I CAN'T FIND ANY INFO ON THEM CAN YOU HELP ME? THEY MADE FUZZY YELLOWISH COCCOONS ON THE BOTTOM OF MY LIVE OAK TREES. THANK YOU! ROBERT PARKS From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:35:36 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 19:35:36 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gall-forming insects I'm wondering if what you could be seeing are galls. There is a mite that forms orange, woolly galls on the leaves of live oak trees. If you have access to a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, on page 170 there is a discussion about these insects. Although they can be unsightly, galls found on branches and leaves of deciduous trees are not known to harm the trees. The book states that in severe cases, a number of galls on foliage may limit natural plant functions, weakening and stressing a tree or shrub. However, infested plants will usually recover if further mite damage is controlled. As for management, the book states that since the damage to landscape trees and shrubs is only aesthetic, prune off affected branches if you find the galls unsightly. Be sure to prune at the proper time of year so that branches and foliage will grow back normally. I also found information on a Texas A&M page that you can view: http://insects.tamu.edu/extension/bulletins/L-1299.html They mention a Wooly leaf gall wasp. Their recommendations for control are pretty much the same - pruning. I hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener THECARMAN681@CS.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > DEAR SIRS: > > I TOOK SOME LEAVES FROM MY TREE TO A NURSERY TODAY TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF INFESTATION PROBLEM I HAD, THEY TOLD ME THAT IT WAS VERY SMALL WASPS ( NAMED GAIL )I CAN'T FIND ANY INFO ON THEM CAN YOU HELP ME? > THEY MADE FUZZY YELLOWISH COCCOONS ON THE BOTTOM OF MY LIVE OAK TREES. > > THANK YOU! > ROBERT PARKS > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:08:18 EDT Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:08:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash with bark cracks Cracks in the bark and gumming is usually a sign that a tree is under stress. Once a plant is under stress all kinds of insects and fungi are attracted to the plant. I suspect that the stress is probably caused by poor irrigation practice.. This has been an extremely hot year and the past two or three years have set records. Consequently we must watch our plants carefully for signs of heat stress change our irrigation as necessary. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation on line at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:08:19 EDT Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 23:08:19 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Small nectarines Karen, You were almost right, the nectarine should be deep watered once every 10 days to two weeks in addition to the turf irrigation. I put a hose under it and let it run slowly overnight for summertime watering in the low desert. For wintertime watering use a four to six week interval. Good luck. Rod From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:07:49 EDT Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:07:49 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Small nectarines Karen, Is your friend also thinning out the fruit when it is very small. There should be at least a fist's width between each of the fruit. If there are too many fruit for the tree to support, then all the fruit will be smaller than normal. Val From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:31:18 EDT Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 01:31:18 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer Flowers It is getting kind of late in the season now to plant flowers. You might try zinnias and yellow and gold cosmos (they will come up in from 3 - 5 days) and sunflowers. I recently heard an experienced gardener say that sunflowers can be planted the year round in Phoenix. Try to get hold of Publication AZ1100 "Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert" put out by the Maricopa Co Extension Service. You might check out the flowers that are blooming now at the Extension Svc Office at 4341 E Broadway Rd, Phx - Glendale Public Library on 59th Ave between Dunlap and Peoria (I think) and the Desert Botanical Garden. Hope this helps you. Val From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:07 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tree, Shrub, Groundcover Problems It's pretty difficult to comment about your tree/shrub problems with out more specifics. Such as your general location (low or high desert), what did you plant, how did you prepare the soil, when did you plant, what is the exposure (shade, etc.), how did you irrigate (amount and frequency). Supplying such information would help us help you. As to the cotttonwood tree, if it is the common Fremont Cottonwood it will grow to 50-100 feet and spread to about 1/2 that distance and will require lots of water. The soil should be kept moist for optimum growth rate. Once established, It will deprive neighboring plants of their needed water and this needs to be considered in your plans. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > My husband and I can't see to keep any of our shrubs, trees,and ground covering alive in our backyard. Our house is 2years old and we have replaced numerous palms, ground covering, and shrubs. We have an east/west running wall and our house faces north. We also just purchased a "Cottonwood" tree(that's what the sales person told us) but the cottonwoods I've seen on the internet look totally different than our tree. I want to make sure we don't have to replace this new tree in the near future. Any suggestions on what will thrive in our backyard? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:17 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:17 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Small nectarines In addition to establishing correct irrigation amounts and schedules, it should be noted that nectarines are not considered to be well adapted to the desert climate. There are a few varieties with low chill requirements and the tree in question must be in this low chill category since it appears to set fruit okay. But the fruit is often small and of poor quality and also very susceptible to insect damage. If fruit set is heavy, thinning will help to produce larger fruit. Thin to about 4 inch spacing on the limb or about one hand-width. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karen Olson" Hi. I've got a friend with a nectarine tree, and the fruit does not grow as large as the ones that you get from the grocery store. The tree looks great with healthy leaves. It gets sun at noon through the afternoon. She only waters it 10 minutes every day with the turf watering. I suggested that she start deep watering it two times a week....6 hours on a low sprinkle. Maybe next year she will have larger fruit. Was I right in my suggestion, and what should she be watering it in the winter time? Thanks for your help.....Karen O. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:25 -0700 Date: Sat, 22 Jul 2000 22:37:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Grape Vine Availability Grapes are available as bare root plants at Phoenix area garden centers in January and February. Some nurseries will pot up the unsold plants and offer them for sale for a few months thereafter but it might be pretty difficult to find any at this late date. If they were available, now would not be a very good time to plant because of the heat and because they will start to go dormant within a few months. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am thinking of planting grape vines to both cover an arbor and provide some fruit. Is it possible to locate mature vines for transplant? From maritza@azstarnet.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:26:16 -0700 Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:26:16 -0700 From: Mary Swift maritza@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #242 - 23 msgs arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu wrote: > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > I have a copy of your book "Success With School Gardens" by Linda A. Guy and associates published by the Arizona Master Gardener Press. Are there any other books on this subject, especially vegetables? Frank Swift email: maritza@azstarnet.com From gentner@worldnet.att.net Sun, 23 Jul 2000 11:04:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 11:04:31 -0700 (MST) From: gentner@worldnet.att.net gentner@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Have several large (4x6+) brown patches in tifgreen lawn. Have had grubs in the past but that doesn't seem to be the problem now. Have taken digital pictures of these areas that I can send for your review. Please advise. From Bluesguys@aol.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:50:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 15:50:26 -0700 (MST) From: Bluesguys@aol.com Bluesguys@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are new AZ residents and have a four foot orange tree in the yard with leaves that are turning yellow. We have a drip system and need to know if we are over or under watering, how often citrus should be watered and for how long and if the tree should be fertilized soon. Thanks for any help. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 19:34:19 EDT Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 19:34:19 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus leaves yellow Yellow leaves could be caused from over or under watering plus other things. If you will advise the age of the tree, how much water and how often, I'll try to help. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on citrus irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 23 Jul 2000 17:54:04 -0700 Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 17:54:04 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Desert Vegetable Gardening Books My recommendations: 1. Desert Harvest: A Guide to Vegetable Gardening in Arid Lands. Available from Growing Connections, Inc., 2123 E. Grant Road, Tucson, Arizona 85719. Phone (520) 325-9709). 2. Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate. Ordering information at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm 3. Desert Gardening by Geo. Brookbank. Available at local bookstores. See http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm for more suggestions. Olin ----- Original Message ----- "Mary Swift" > > I have a copy of your book "Success With School Gardens" by Linda A. Guy and associates published by the Arizona Master Gardener Press. Are there any other books on this subject, especially vegetables? > > Frank Swift From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 23 Jul 2000 18:06:57 -0700 Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 18:06:57 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gall-forming insects Robert: Since I can not see these myself, if you really want to be sure of what they are, you can take a sample down to the county extension office. There is a Friday morning diagnostic team that meets weekly. What I would suggest that you do is cut a few sample and put them in a zip lock bag. Attach a note with your question (what are they and how can you get rid of them, and anything else you want to know) and include you name and phone number. They will call you with an answer. Here is the address of the office if you weren't already aware of it: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. The office is about a mile west of I-10 on Broadway, on the south side of the road. It sure sounds like a gall to me, but if there is even the slightest chance that it isn't these people will know. The only thing I have read is to prune them away and the diagnostic team may have other suggestions for you. You can drop your sample off any time before the Friday meeting. If you are not any where near this office and you have a satelite office near you, you can stop in there too and someone may be able to help. You can view the list of offices at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm. The list is in a column on the right hand side of the page. Sue Bass Master Gardener Thecarman681@cs.com wrote: > DEAR SUE BASS: > > THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR SENDING ME THIS INFORMATION, I SHOWED THESE LEAVES > TO 4 DIFFERENT PEOPLE, AND GOT 3 DIFFERENT ANSWERS TO WHAT THEY WERE. > I APPRECIATE YOU CONFIRMING THAT THEY WERE GALL'S. > I KNOW THEY WON'T HURT MY TREES BUT I WOULD STILL LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO GET > RID OF THEM, IF YOU KNOW OF ANYTHING THAT WILL EVEN REDUCE THEIR NUMBERS, I > WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT IT IS; PLEASE. > > THANK YOU! > ROBERT PARKS From janmw1937@aol.com Sun, 23 Jul 2000 20:08:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 23 Jul 2000 20:08:36 -0700 (MST) From: janmw1937@aol.com janmw1937@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I know nothing about Hibiscus except that when I mived into this house in April they were very nice and now two have lost all their leaves and the others are yellowing. Two in the front were about 5.5 ft tall and now they appear dead. Then we have tow Diamond Heads whose leaves are yellowing. The smaller bushes are also looking yellow. What is happening? Thank you. Oh I live in far west Phoenix. From kbv612@email.com Mon, 24 Jul 2000 06:32:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 06:32:27 -0700 (MST) From: kbv612@email.com kbv612@email.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I lived in Chandler, AZ and installed Midiron and loved it. I have since moved to Austin, TX and would like to install it again at our new home. Our landscaper has not heard of it. Do you know of a supplier in Austin, TX? Thanks, Kim Vogelman From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 08:14:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 08:14:48 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Midiron in Austin TX Suggest contacting your local cooperative extension office. Go the Aggie site at http://dallastaex.tamu.edu/ and select your county. Push the "Contact Us" button on the county page for addresses and phone umbers. -Olin From wannabetz@aol.com Mon, 24 Jul 2000 09:01:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 09:01:29 -0700 (MST) From: wannabetz@aol.com wannabetz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just completed the frames for a raised vegetable garden -- 540 sq ft -- and would like some advice on the best mix to fill with. We want to garden organically, and I have not been able to find anyone who sells organic compost in bulk. We thought solarizing would be a good idea, so we need to order the soil soon. Help! Any info on purchasing the soil would be appreciated. Thanks. The Betz Family From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 10:22:10 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 10:22:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Garden soil for raised beds When we built our raised beds, we had a load of sandy loam delivered from Pioneer. You can look in the yellow pages under Landscape Equipment and Supplies and you will find several listings of companies that will deliver soil. Sue Bass Master Gardener > arid_gardener > We just completed the frames for a raised vegetable garden -- 540 sq ft -- and would like some advice on the best mix to fill with. We want to garden organically, and I have not been able to find anyone who sells organic compost in bulk. We thought solarizing would be a good idea, so we need to order the soil soon. Help! Any info on purchasing the soil would be appreciated. > Thanks. The Betz Family > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 12:13:13 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 12:13:13 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Soil Try Western Organics to the left of the entrance to the 27th Avenue Landfill. They're in the phone book. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, July 24, 2000 9:01 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > We just completed the frames for a raised vegetable garden -- 540 sq ft -- and would like some advice on the best mix to fill with. We want to garden organically, and I have not been able to find anyone who sells organic compost in bulk. We thought solarizing would be a good idea, so we need to order the soil soon. Help! Any info on purchasing the soil would be appreciated. > Thanks. The Betz Family From vek@iopener.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 13:17:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 13:17:45 -0700 (MST) From: vek@iopener.net vek@iopener.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can we keep rabbits out of our yard? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 13:36:10 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 13:36:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Hibiscus I would like to refer you to a site that I was referred to recently. The following page at the site is a recent newsletter story on yellowing leaves on hibiscus. http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/letter1_4.htm You can also contact them with further hibiscus questions. Charles Black is the owner and is terrific about responding to questions concerning growing hibiscus. Sue Bass Master Gardener janmw1937@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I know nothing about Hibiscus except that when I mived into this house in April they were very nice and now two have lost all their leaves and the others are yellowing. Two in the front were about 5.5 ft tall and now they appear dead. Then we have tow Diamond Heads whose leaves are yellowing. The smaller bushes are also looking yellow. What is happening? Thank you. Oh I live in far west Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Mon, 24 Jul 2000 14:26:05 -0700 Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 14:26:05 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Raised beds I, too, have raised beds in which I garden organically. When I first built them I used a combination of forest mulch, composted manure, sand, a little peat moss maybe. Over the years as my own compost pile improved I just keep adding it when it is ready, add composted manure when I get it. There are people who sell compost in bulk but others here might know their name. Mary wannabetz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We just completed the frames for a raised vegetable garden -- 540 sq ft -- and would like some advice on the best mix to fill with. We want to garden organically, and I have not been able to find anyone who sells organic compost in bulk. We thought solarizing would be a good idea, so we need to order the soil soon. Help! Any info on purchasing the soil would be appreciated. > Thanks. The Betz Family > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From swamper2@pacbell.net Mon, 24 Jul 2000 18:58:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 18:58:22 -0700 (MST) From: swamper2@pacbell.net swamper2@pacbell.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have these tiny little seed-like balls beneath my oak tree. They resemble a tiny mustard seed. These seeds are jumping. They sound like rice crispys. What are these? Should I be concerned? Are they dangerous to my pets? Help! Angel Moreno swamper2@pacbell.net From zonajoe@aol.com Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:53:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 24 Jul 2000 19:53:14 -0700 (MST) From: zonajoe@aol.com zonajoe@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had a puple plum tree planted last summer and I bloomed ok this spring but the leaves now have turned a greenish brown from their bright red color. What would cause this? Thanks Joe From ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:27:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 09:27:07 -0700 (MST) From: ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! I planted watermelon and honeydew melons this spring, and I now have a pretty good crop. I have had to water them daily. However, in the last 2 weeks, a significant number of the vines (on both watermelon and honeydew) have died out. Is that normal? Do I have some kind of plant virus? I don't see insects devouring the leaves. I also have a pomagranite bush, now with many pomagranites on it. Question: when are they ready for picking and how can I tell? Thanks much, Ed From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:21:44 EDT Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 17:21:44 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Purple Leaf Plum with brown leaves Joe, I would suspect improper irrigation. Check out the Master Gardner Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Beverlyfz@aol.com Tue, 25 Jul 2000 18:00:43 EDT Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 18:00:43 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Light If a grow light is 4 feet away from the plants instead of 1 foot will it do any good? Thx Beverly From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:53:58 -0700 Date: Tue, 25 Jul 2000 15:53:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] School Gardening Books If you look in the appendix section, I listed just about every good publication with curriculum, projects, etc. That's a good start. Next piece of advice is to peruse the Youth Gardens segment of our website http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ You'll also find alot there. Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener Mary Swift wrote: > arid_gardener > > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu wrote: > > > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > I have a copy of your book "Success With School Gardens" by Linda A. Guy and associates published by the Arizona Master Gardener Press. Are there any other books on this subject, especially vegetables? > > Frank Swift > email: maritza@azstarnet.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From AzTeacher8@aol.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 08:07:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 08:07:05 -0700 (MST) From: AzTeacher8@aol.com AzTeacher8@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted winter squash and corn on July 21st. The soil temperature was 90 degrees. Both the squash and corn germinated in three days. The corn is doing fine, but the squash plants went back under ground. The same thing happened to squash seeds that I planted in March. What could be causing this? From budlea@prodgy.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:23:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:23:38 -0700 (MST) From: budlea@prodgy.net budlea@prodgy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page care of a fig tree,it is producing black figs there are very tasteful. the tree is about three years old,and it is losing some of its leaves. i contacted two nurseries got two different answers one said to much water the other said not enough water i also was told that when fig trees produce they lose there leaves i am new out here and need some help thanks bud the not so green garderner.also can i grow a banana tree here in sun city From tsb_az@compuserve.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:55:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:55:53 -0700 (MST) From: tsb_az@compuserve.com tsb_az@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a queen palm which is approx. 3 year old and it appears to be "dead". There were four fronts at the top which were very brown in color and very dry. I removed these fronts and two new fronts appeared which looked healthy to start but these two also dried up and died. I visited the local garden center in Phoenix where I purchased these queen palms and they recommended mixing Bordeaux Fungicide and pouring down the center of the palm. This I have done. If indeed the palm is still alive when should I start to see any new life in the form of new healthy fronts appearing ? Is there any other solution to this problem? Thanks and regards/Terry From cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:58:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 10:58:33 -0700 (MST) From: cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net cmdwyer@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page While pulling some crabgrass out of my bermuda grass lawn, i found some areas down at the soil level that has a white fuzzy cottony substance all over them. At first it looks like a spider nest, but there is way too much of it to be that. The grass is very dense and very green. The entire back yard gets shaded late in the afternoon by the house. lawn is watered every other day and mowed every week. Any suggestions would help. Thanx. From cfrink@pop.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:31:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:31:27 -0700 (MST) From: cfrink@pop.net cfrink@pop.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I manage a golf course in North Scottsdale. Many of the saquaro cacti around the course are infected with a black, wet rot that eventually kills them. Is there anything that I can do to prevent this? Also, some of them have split down the trunk and/or fallen over due to weight. We manage our irrigation system as well as we can, but it seems to me that these plants are getting too much water. Should we prune off arms?Please advise. From whichpage@aol.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:50:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 12:50:30 -0700 (MST) From: whichpage@aol.com whichpage@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I spend 6 mos in Phoenix and 6 months in Payson. I start my tomato plants in Phx early in Feb. and transplant them in garden in Payson in April or May this year is a disaster, looks like plants are dying slowly start at bottom and leaves turn yellow then brown an dry out, and eventually plant dies. what caused this and how to handle this. Been doing this for 4 years and first time with any thing happening like this. thank you for any help. From yoshiko@mindspring.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 11:57:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 11:57:45 -0700 (MST) From: yoshiko@mindspring.com yoshiko@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had trimed 4 big branches of rubber tree,older than 30 years, two week ago. Since then the tree seems like dying because leaves' color turned light green and a few new leaves come out yet. Any advice to save my rubber tree would be aplliciate. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:20:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 14:20:14 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Underground Squash Plants Pocket gophers will often attack plants from underground and pull them down into their burrow but that usually leaves a hole. Are you certain the seedlings are underground and not just missing. I have to protect new plantings from grackles, quail, doves and sparrows. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I planted winter squash and corn on July 21st. The soil temperature was 90 degrees. Both the squash and corn germinated in three days. The corn is doing fine, but the squash plants went back under ground. The same thing happened to squash seeds that I planted in March. What could be causing this? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:18:32 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 15:18:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Daily watering sounds like a lot for melons. If adequately mulched, 2-3 times per week should be enough so it could be due to drowning the roots. Or it could be that they will just wither and die in this hot weather - mine usually do. Another possibility is there may be nematodes or other pathogens in the soil. Either wait for four years or more before planting again at the same location or solarize the soil to kill off the pathogens and nematodes. To solarize, water the area well, then cover it with a piece of clear plastic. It takes up 6 weeks to kill off the pathogens in spring or fall but 3-4 weeks is long enough during the hot summer. See the first para. in July's "Timely Tips" at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/july.htm for more information about solarization. Pomegranates will begin to ripen in August. The only way I know how to tell is to cut one open. One can usually afford to sacrifice a few. There is usually quite a bit of fruit drop the first few years. They tend to become somewhat blocky shaped when they have reached full size. The biggest problem I had with mine is splitting and I have never been able to completely solve this problem. They are also attractive to a long-legged, grey leaf footed bug. See http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-ft.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I planted watermelon and honeydew melons this spring, > and I now have a pretty good crop. I have had to water > them daily. However, in the last 2 weeks, a significant > number of the vines (on both watermelon and honeydew) > have died out. Is that normal? Do I have some kind of > plant virus? I don't see insects devouring the leaves. > > I also have a pomagranite bush, now with many > pomagranites on it. Question: when are they ready > for picking and how can I tell? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:28:58 EDT Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:28:58 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rubber tree overpruned A great poicy to remember is to not prune away more than 15% of a tree at one time. I f you can shade the tree where the tree has been pruned it will help. Also be sure that the tree is watered adequately. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:29:00 EDT Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:29:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig Tree watering Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:28:59 EDT Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:28:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Queen Palm dying If you cannot see any new growth on your queen palm then it probably is dead. The fungicide Bordea is is used to help get rid of a fungus called Bud Rot that is washed down inside the palm by summer rains. The first symptoms to appear are yellowing fronds. There are nutrient deficiencies that can cause yellowing fronds also. So be safe and fertilize your Queen Palm 3 to 4 times a year with a palm special fertilizer and irrigate properly. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From j_harrell@NetZero.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 17:40:29 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 17:40:29 -0700 From: Jackie and Bill Harrell j_harrell@NetZero.net Subject: [AG] Thrips? Killing cukes,melons Dear Master Gardener, I have a horrible infestation of things on the back of the leaves of my cantaloupe and cucumbers. They are little dots of black and light brown - I'm guessing mature and immature somethings. I sprayed the backs of the leaves with a spray containing stuff from chrysanthemums, but I can't tell if it did anything. I'm losing whole crops here, ha! My wonderful melon vines are going, and the cukes are about gone. Any last rites you can suggest? Sincerely, Jackie _____NetZero Free Internet Access and Email______ http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:57:06 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 19:57:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tomatoes You can plant tomotoes from transplants at this time of year. I'd like to direct you to a section of our website called Timely Tips where you can see a list of other vegetables that can be planted now: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/august.htm Also, the following link will take you to our on-line Master Gardener Manual and a section on vegetable gardening http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener danopato@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to grow tomatoes at this time of the year in this area and if so, what is the best way to go about it...Dano in Mesa. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:06:03 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:06:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Beaver-tail cactus If you haven't received an answer to your question I would like to direct you to the Desert Botanical Garden's plant question hotline. You can reach them Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225. They are experts on questions regarding cacti. Sue Bass Master Gardener Teleronde@AOL.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What would cause an established beaver-tail (Prickly pear)cactus to suddenly start to shrivel and discolor? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:16:01 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 20:16:01 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Assistance with Horticultural Therapy Garden Lori: I would suggest that you contact Cathy Rymer at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office regarding help from the Master Gardeners with your program. You can reach her by e-mail at: crymer@ag.arizona.edu or by phone at: (602) 470-8086. Good Luck with your program! Sue Bass Master Gardener lorivose@tch-az.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I work for a non-profit organization that works with people with physical & developmental disabilities. At our day treatment site we have a 1 1/2 acre horticultural therapy garden. We need volunteers to help us maintain, weed, water, plant, create therapy and job training programs and volunteer to run them. Can you tell me how to get Master Gardeners involved? We would benefit from the help and the knowledge they could provide. > Thanks! > Lori > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:16:48 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:16:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Summer Flowers As an addition to Val's response to you, you can view the Flower guide she referred you to on line in a PDF file by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers. Sue Bass Master Gardener golfjan97@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I love my flower garden, but the heat is killing my garden. What type of flowering plants can I use. We water on a regular base and more if needed. The area is in my yard and has a southwest exposure. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:25:41 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:25:41 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Rabbits You can view a publication called Rabbit Management In The Garden In The Low Desert by using the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener vek@iopener.net wrote: > arid_gardener > How can we keep rabbits out of our yard? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:47:22 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 21:47:22 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Light What type of grow light are you using? What is the wattage? I may be able to find a more appropriate answer for you with this information. Sue Bass Master Gardener Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > If a grow light is 4 feet away from the plants instead of 1 foot will it do > any good? > Thx Beverly > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:12:53 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:12:53 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Critters Eating Flowers I can point you to some information on plants that are less attractive to rabbits. You can view it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit1.htm If it is javelinas that are the problem, as far as I know they are not picky eaters and the only thing that will deter them is a physical barrier. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Bgold38@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We have recently moved to the N.E. area of Scottsdale and have a lot of > natural desert around our home. We now find that the types of flowers we > enjoy are also very attractive to some type or types of critters with whom we > share this territory. During the night they eat what we plant. Can anyone > tell us what types of flowers we can plant out here that these critters will > avoid? Any other helpful suggestions would also be appreciated. We think the > critters are rabbits but aren't sure of that yet. Thanks in advance. > luvvy@worldnet.att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:21:36 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:21:36 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Bacterial Necrosis I would like to refer you to some information on bacterial necrosis. You can view it by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm It contains a description of the symptoms, which sounds like it fits the bill here, as well as tips for management of the disease. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener cfrink@pop.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I manage a golf course in North Scottsdale. Many of the saquaro cacti around the course are infected with a black, wet rot that eventually kills them. Is there anything that I can do to prevent this? Also, some of them have split down the trunk and/or fallen over due to weight. We manage our irrigation system as well as we can, but it seems to me that these plants are getting too much water. Should we prune off arms?Please advise. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:30:50 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:30:50 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plants for Poolside Landscaping John: You can view a publication on plants for poolside landscaping on line by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals. Beside the on line publications, you will also find a list of other publications that you can order from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Service. You will find ordering information at the top of the page. Sue Bass Master Gardener johnaq6@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have just moved to the East Valley from Minnesota and we are in desperate need of a quality landscaper to do some landscaping for us in our backyard. We are in the process of putting in a pool and we need to have someone tell us what kind of plants and cushes that we can put in the backyard. Our pools should be comnpleted within the next couple of weeks, so that we can start with our landscaping. > Our backyard is mostly FULL sun and we need to have plants and bushes that will tolereate the full sun. > > CAN YOU PLEASE GET ME SOME ADVICE AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. > > We are looking for some color - no rose bushes - for our landscaping project. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!! > > John Wedemeyer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:33:08 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:33:08 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Ground Covers near fish pond By using the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals you can view, on-line, a publication on plants for poolside landscaping as well as another on ground covers. You might want to compare the two to find the best option for your conditions. Sue Bass Master Gardener lsteen@as.arizona.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > What type of ground cover can you suggest for planting > around a fish pond, full sun. It needs to grow over > rocks and not shed so as not to muck up pond > pump. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:28:49 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:28:49 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tomatoes Anybody know where in the Phoenix area one can but tomato transplants ow? -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" > You can plant tomotoes from transplants at this time of year. ... > ... From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:51:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 22:51:14 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Watering Schedule for desert plants The following link is to the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association. It has some good guidelines for your watering question. http://www.amwua.org/xscp-wateringschedules.htm You may also wish to view a chapter on irrigation from our on-line Master Gardener Manual, which you can access by the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener gjjmarion@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I'm located in the Tatum Ranch area of Cave Creek. My landscaping consists of desert type plants: Saguaro,agave,barrel cactus Lantana,Sage, Bird of Paradise bush and Tree, Potatoe Plant, Bougainvillea,bermuda grass, small garden of annuals that are suppose to be able to handle the heat. My question is what is the best watering schedule in days and amounts of water for this type of landscaping for each season? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:12:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:12:18 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Posts to tomato listservs indicate tomato blights, fungi and wilts are unusually severe problems nearly every where this year. Using sterilized soil might help as well as selecting resistant varieties. You might try a fungicide like Daconil if it isn't too late. -Olin Spraying with Daconil ----- Original Message -----From: > I spend 6 mos in Phoenix and 6 months in Payson. I start my tomato plants in Phx early in Feb. and transplant them in garden in Payson in April or May this year is a disaster, looks like plants are dying slowly start at bottom and leaves turn yellow then brown an dry out, and eventually plant dies. what caused this and how to handle this. Been doing this for 4 years and first time with any thing happening like this. thank you for any help. New Subj.: Are any Payson or Star Valley nurseries offering tomato transplants for sale? Olin From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:21:07 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 08:21:07 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Tomato Transplants in Tucson Anyone know where you can buy tomato transplants in Tucson? ============================== Anybody know where in the Phoenix area one can but tomato transplants ow? -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" > You can plant tomotoes from transplants at this time of year. ... > ... From SCSTECH2@webtv.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 06:15:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 06:15:45 -0700 (MST) From: SCSTECH2@webtv.net SCSTECH2@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted my yard to cactus and a thronless Mesquite tree plus some bushes. I deepwatered the tree. I water every two weeks(a light amount) About 2 feet of clay loam over a sandy loam. Send any info you can. Do saguaro have tap roots? Thank you.... Is it a good idea to fertilze cactus? How much? From bunyldy@worldnet.att.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:24:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:24:45 -0700 (MST) From: bunyldy@worldnet.att.net bunyldy@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Question about honeysuckle vines. I have a "regular" vine (the one that produces the fragrant yellow & white flowers). It bloomed beautfully in the spring but now there are few leaves & mostly dried limbs. Should I prune it back, how much & when? Thank you for your response. From gwest12@earthlink.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:49:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 09:49:46 -0700 (MST) From: gwest12@earthlink.net gwest12@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently, our kitchen has become infested with small (appx. 1/8" long), black (sometimes with some brown), flying bugs that seem to favor the area where we keep our bananas. Any suggestions on what they are, where to locate their breeding place and how to eliminate them? From normahamilton_85332@yahoo.com Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:04:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 11:04:15 -0700 (MST) From: normahamilton_85332@yahoo.com normahamilton_85332@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What recommendations do you have about my interest in using the discharge water from a washing machine to water my oleander hedge? From Beverlyfz@aol.com Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:50:23 EDT Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:50:23 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Lighyt It is a 40 watt, wide spectrum fluorescent light for plant & aquarium use, containing a combination of phosphors which produce light unusually rich in red & blues. Provides balanced lighting for plant growth in the home. I got that right off the package. I have four fixtures 4 feet long with two bulbs each covering 75 square feet about 5 feet up over raised beds. Thx for your help. From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:44:04 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:44:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Light Beverly: Thanks for the additional information. From the research I have done, it seems that flourescent plant lights provide useable plant light for up to 12 - 14 inches. I'd like to refer you to a web site which includes a Q & A section with discussion on grow lights as well as a location to post questions. If you need more specifics I think they can be very helpful to you. You can visit them at: http://www.plantitearth.com/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > It is a 40 watt, wide spectrum fluorescent light for plant & aquarium use, > containing a combination of phosphors which produce light unusually rich in > red & blues. Provides balanced lighting for plant growth in the home. I got > that right off the package. I have four fixtures 4 feet long with two bulbs > each covering 75 square feet about 5 feet up over raised beds. Thx for your > help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:47:59 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 14:47:59 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Light Correction! That should have read 12 - 18 inches, not 14. Sue Bass Master Gardener Sue Bass wrote: > arid_gardener > Beverly: > Thanks for the additional information. From the research I have done, it seems > that flourescent plant lights provide useable plant light for up to 12 - 14 > inches. I'd like to refer you to a web site which includes a Q & A section with > discussion on grow lights as well as a location to post questions. If you need > more specifics I think they can be very helpful to you. You can visit them at: > http://www.plantitearth.com/index.html > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > It is a 40 watt, wide spectrum fluorescent light for plant & aquarium use, > > containing a combination of phosphors which produce light unusually rich in > > red & blues. Provides balanced lighting for plant growth in the home. I got > > that right off the package. I have four fixtures 4 feet long with two bulbs > > each covering 75 square feet about 5 feet up over raised beds. Thx for your > > help. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From joyce.a.olson@honeywell.com Thu, 27 Jul 2000 15:22:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 15:22:06 -0700 (MST) From: joyce.a.olson@honeywell.com joyce.a.olson@honeywell.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I can't find any care tips for my hibiscus or gardenia plants and both are sick. I don't know if they need little water or lots of water and what kind of fertilizer. Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:07:27 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 16:07:27 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Hibiscus and Gardenia problems Joyce: First for the hibiscus, the following link will take you to a page entitled, "Hibiscus Care, A Short Course". http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/pages/hibiscus.htm Its a great place to start. You can also post further questions specific to Hibiscus at this site. They are great about answering questions. We have a fact sheet on Gardenias that you can ask for at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. It is fact sheet MC 29, entitled, " Gardenias and Camillias". The following link will take you to our publications page which has all the information you need to order a copy of the fact sheet. You can also SOMETIMES find a copy at your local library branch. Ask the librarian for binder 635 - Horticulture Publications in the General Reference section. If they have it you can make a copy of the fact sheet. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener The following information is something I found on-line regarding gardenias' requirements: "Gardenia requirements are very exact, and to insure your plants continued bloom, these needs must be met. Full sun, with some shading in the summer (in the hottest areas). An acid soil with a pH between 5 and 6. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Humidity, or daily misting. Heavy feeding. **Cool night temperatures**" . Of course here in the low desert they tend to bloom in the late spring, early summer. As you can see, these conditions can be pretty tough to meet here in our hot, dry, climate with alkaline soils. joyce.a.olson@honeywell.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I can't find any care tips for my hibiscus or gardenia plants and both are sick. I don't know if they need little water or lots of water and what kind of fertilizer. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 27 Jul 2000 17:04:40 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 17:04:40 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Using Washing Machine Discharge Water on Plants Most municipalities have regulations prohibiting discharge and reuse of grey water unless an elaborate filtering setup is used. Most will also work with you on the specs and construction. After treating and filtering, it would be okay to reuse it. The raw grey water may contain contaminants which should be prevented from percolating into the ground water, is usually very alkaline and, depending on the detergent used, could be harmful to your plants. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > What recommendations do you have about my interest in using the discharge water from a washing machine to water my oleander hedge? From datura@mail.inet-images.com Thu, 27 Jul 2000 18:51:47 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 18:51:47 -0700 From: Silvia McDonald datura@mail.inet-images.com Subject: [AG] Knife Leaf Acacia I recently planted 2 knife leaf acacias. They are beginning to yellow slightly. I have been watering them regularly. Can anyone tell me what my problem might be? Thanks Silvia McDonald Tucson, AZ From umiller@azdps.com Thu, 27 Jul 2000 17:15:54 -0700 Date: Thu, 27 Jul 2000 17:15:54 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus and Gardenias Both like quite a bit of water and need a good dose or Miracid every once in a while. Gardenias don't like direct sun; they prefer dappled shade. My hibiscus plants seem to do well in the sun as long as they get a good amount of water during the hot summer months. Hibiscus also tends to get windburn easily, so if they're in an open place where hot winds blow, you'll see the edges of the leaves turning brown. If you go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener and type in hibiscus you'll see previous questions and answers about hibiscus care. Good luck. They're nice plants - especially the hibiscus since there are so many kinds and colors to chose from. Ursula Miller - not a Master Gardener; just a Master Learner -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of joyce.a.olson@honeywell.com Sent: Thursday, July 27, 2000 3:22 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener I can't find any care tips for my hibiscus or gardenia plants and both are sick. I don't know if they need little water or lots of water and what kind of fertilizer. Thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From 179595 Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:33:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:33:42 -0700 (MST) From: 179595 179595 Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on 3 acre's in the Desert of So. Cal. I would like to use the space I have to grow Ficus trees and Oleanders starting them from seedlings or small cuttings My question is where can I find information on starting such a project and where I can purchase the materials I will need wholesale Thank You. From 179595@aol.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:34:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:34:55 -0700 (MST) From: 179595@aol.com 179595@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on 3 acre's in the Desert of So. Cal. I would like to use the space I have to grow Ficus trees and Oleanders starting them from seedlings or small cuttings My question is where can I find information on starting such a project and where I can purchase the materials I will need, wholesale Thank You. From 179595@aol.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:42:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 00:42:22 -0700 (MST) From: 179595@aol.com 179595@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live on 3 acres in the Desert of So. Calif I am interested in using the land I have to grow oleanders and Ficus, starting them from seedlings or cuttings.,My question is where can I find info into how to start this type of business? and where to find the materials I would need. Is there a wholesale contact I could make? Sincerely, Roy From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:36:03 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:36:03 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Knife Leaf Acacia Silvia, I am not sure what watering regularly means but if it is more than once a week then you are probably watering them too much. These plants do not grow too much in the summer, they are close to dormant in some cases, so don't need much summer watering. In addition, they are sensitive to drainage, so if your soil is not especially fast draining that means you should water even less frequently. Good luck, Mary Irish Silvia McDonald wrote: > arid_gardener > I recently planted 2 knife leaf acacias. They are beginning to yellow slightly. I > have been watering them regularly. Can anyone tell me what my problem might be? > > Thanks > > Silvia McDonald > Tucson, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:42:10 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:42:10 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Asexual Propagation Both Ficus and Oleander are pretty easy to start from cuttings. . See http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html for theory and procedures. Try greenhouse supply businesses for supplies. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: <179595@Ag.Arizona.Edu>> I live on 3 acre's in the Desert of So. Cal. > I would like to use the space I have to grow Ficus trees and Oleanders starting them from seedlings or small cuttings My question is where can I find information on starting such a project and where I can purchase the materials I will need wholesale. From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:09:29 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:09:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pantry Pests - Weevils If they are really tiny, I suspect a pantry pest that usually arrives in the larval stage within packaged cereals, rice and/or pasta. There are several weevils in this group, which I have had on occasion, as well as some general feeders that arrive in and eat up anything, including dog food, dried meats or fruits, chocolate, spices, even drugs. I'd check the shelves around the area in question, checking boxes of dry food for loose flaps or tiny holes...your first clue that something is amiss is if the package is leaking a small amount of its contents. You will also see remnants of the larval casings left behind as they emerged into little weevils, both on the shelf and within the food product. The impacted food is usually thrown out, and I often just toss ALL the pasta/rice boxes for good measure, feeding the local neighborhood birds, unless my pigeon problem is bad that year! Vacuum well the shelf, to remove all traces of food crumbs. If you don't use the entire contents of any box, put it in a separate plastic or glass container to isolate from other boxes. This is a good practice for new products, too, unless they are eaten as soon as possible after purchase. I have never bothered with chemical treatment. Actually, the food can be eaten [they're eating worse on Survivor now, aren't they?!?!]. I would suggest preparing it first to cook the contents [you can also freeze it. In the case of dry cereal, I'd still toss it as I don't particularly want to see larva or adults backstroking in my morning bowl full of Total. We have a publication on the topic, which will show you a number of illustrations so you can specifically identify your new neighbors, if you are interested! Its 8386, Control of Pantry Pests, and you can get instructions for ordering it at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects Good luck! Linda Guy, Master Gardener gwest12@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Recently, our kitchen has become infested with small (appx. 1/8" long), black (sometimes with some brown), flying bugs that seem to favor the area where we keep our bananas. Any suggestions on what they are, where to locate their breeding place and how to eliminate them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From deniseorjohn@home.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:37:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:37:33 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had planted 1 gallon-sized Italian cypress trees along a southwest wall late May. I've noticed the shooter tip (top of plant) on all 3 trees is brown and crispy. Will this stunt the growth of the cypress? What should I do to help it grow quicker? Should I prune the dried up top and how far down do I go. Is Miracle Grow enough to feed it? Thanks, Denise From phxnana@aol.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:52:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:52:51 -0700 (MST) From: phxnana@aol.com phxnana@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have roses and I give them food and they are growing but the new growth and buds are burning up in the Arizona heat. They get water every day from drip system. Any suggestions you have I will appreciate. From deniseorjohn@home.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:40:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:40:56 -0700 (MST) From: deniseorjohn@home.com deniseorjohn@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young Australian Bottle tree is getting brown leaves just on the tips of each branch. What should I do? It gets watered several times a week. What is the best food to give it? Also, many of my young plants (I landscaped in May) are turning yellow especially my yucca gloriosa's. Should I give them iron or what type of food? Thanks, Denise From Nuts4u@mciworld.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:52:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:52:37 -0700 (MST) From: Nuts4u@mciworld.com Nuts4u@mciworld.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, mesquite, ironwoods From scootter2@aol.com Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:11:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:11:01 -0700 (MST) From: scootter2@aol.com scootter2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have a pine tree that is about 30 feet tall (I don't know the actual age), needle are turning brown and falling off. Thr top of the tree is thinning faster than the bottom. I've tried deep soaking tree on weekends and has no effect, I have been feeding it with Miracle Grow and Nitron. I live by McKellips & Gilbert Roads near the Orange Groves. From mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 28 Jul 2000 10:40:10 -0700 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 10:40:10 -0700 From: Marikelly Block mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Quercus suber - Cork Oak Hello Master Gardeners We received this e-mail via our state extension web site. If someone could answer this individual's questions or direct them to resources that would be great!! Please let me know by carbon copy or directly if you are able to help. Thanks so much for your assistance. Kelly >From: Azscapes@aol.com >Date: Wed, 26 Jul 2000 18:30:40 EDT >Subject: Quercus suber - Cork Oak >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu >X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 120 > >Hello, >I am in great need of information pertaining to the cork oak tree. The >following questions listed below are some of my greatest interest. > >1. What is the life expectancy of the tree? > >2. What are the caracterisics of the root system? > >3. If a full grown tree is approaching turf with it"s canapy is it at risk of >surge growth? > >4. Do you recomend harvesting the cork every 8 years? > >5. Any other information you can provide me with is greatly appreacted > >Fax- 602-404-8866 >Phone-602-404-0568 > > Thank you for your time, > > Ryan Hagadorn >. > **************************** Marikelly Block Applications Systems Analyst Senior Cooperative Extension University of Arizona 301 Forbes Bldg. Tucson, AZ 85721 520-626-9174 mblock@ag.arizona.edu From Mapgoddess@aol.com Sat Jul 29 17:19:53 2000 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 13:19:53 EDT From: Mapgoddess@aol.com Mapgoddess@aol.com Subject: [AG] re pantry pests I heard rice could kill birds, causing them to swell up (they don't throw it at weddings any more because of this?) so feeding the birds with weevil-infested rice could be a disaster. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jul 29 21:15:34 2000 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 17:15:34 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer rose care I just answered a similiar question, so I have copied it here. I walked through my rose garden this morning and I was ready to cry. Looks like at least a dozen roses that won't make it. I've been growing roses in the low desert for 24 years and this year appears to be the worst. Just make sure that they get plenty of water. What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen, mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush, be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the bush with a maximum amount of shade. If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them. If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00 PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses. I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 31 00:54:53 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 17:54:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Grape Vines Available Does anyone recall the person who inquired recently about grapevines? [Q: Sue B., how's the archives' situation?] I found perlet (?) and ruby at Harpers at Squaw Peak [about 18th St.] and Thomas Road that actually looked very good in their containers under shade cloth. While I realize this isn't the opportune time to plant in the ground, container gardening might be an option, though unlikely to fruit this year. Pass it along if you were in touch with this particular querent. Linda From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 31 21:46:08 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 14:46:08 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Malabar Spinach Anyone with experience growing Malabar spinach (Basella rubra) in Phoenix? When to plant (warm season, cool season), etc.? -Olin From icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu Sat Jul 29 15:25:42 2000 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My question is very much the same as one which was asked in your site, but didn't seem to have been fully answered. Why would one bottle tree look fine, and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? These trees are about 6 years old. What would cause older bottle trees' largest branches to become more and more horizontal to the ground? There are some healed cracks and dark coloration at the point where the main branches divide from the trunk on these older trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. We are getting worried about them. The soil is pretty caliche. We have been watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, about once a month. Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help you can give. Thanks! From icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu Sat Jul 29 15:25:42 2000 Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 08:25:42 -0700 (MST) From: icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu icbcd@mainex1.asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My question is very much the same as one which was asked in your site, but didn't seem to have been fully answered. Why would one bottle tree look fine, and the next tree 12 feet away look very droopy? These trees are about 6 years old. What would cause older bottle trees' largest branches to become more and more horizontal to the ground? There are some healed cracks and dark coloration at the point where the main branches divide from the trunk on these older trees. These trees are at least 12 years old. We are getting worried about them. The soil is pretty caliche. We have been watering deeply with a hose on very low overnight, about once a month. Bottle trees create wonderful shade, and we don't mind the cleanup, but the differences from tree to tree, and the horizontal branch problem is a puzzle. Will very much appreciate any help you can give. Thanks! From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jul 30 14:42:46 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi, folks – Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the salt. My questions are: Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren’t I also washing away good nutrients besides the salt? I’ve been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need – though this nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown’s back yard? Answer: Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I’m not talking lollipops). Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., “made in/for Arizona”) better than the national products or is this just marketing hype? And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don’t exist in the hose water? Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. Ursula Miller, Peoria ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi, = folks =96 Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = leaves turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = of salt in the soil.=A0 It said that = this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = salt.=A0 =

 

My = questions are:=A0 =

 

Is this = a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 Where does the salt come from?=A0 Could this be the problem of my brown leaves?=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = washing away good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 =

 

I=92ve = been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = and all the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = etc.)=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = Clue game with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? =A0=A0Answer:=A0 Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = lollipops).

 

Which = brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded):=A0 Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = national products or is this just marketing hype?

 

And I = have yet one more question now that I have your attention.=A0 J<= /span>=A0 I notice that plants are happier = after a good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose.=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = that don=92t exist in the hose water?

 

Thanks = for bearing with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = Have a nice day.

 

Ursula Miller, Peoria

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- From fscapellit@mindspring.com Fri Jul 28 23:24:57 2000 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:24:57 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I sent a message to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu........but never received an answer. Is anybody there? Please help me. From bonnford@amug.org Sun Jul 30 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:28:42 -0700 (MST) From: bonnford@amug.org bonnford@amug.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Night-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? From archsoul@home.com Mon Jul 31 17:24:41 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:24:41 -0700 (MST) From: archsoul@home.com archsoul@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? From mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jul 31 16:20:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:20:19 -0700 From: Marikelly Block mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Can anyone answer this question? Thanks Kelly >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: christie youngdale >Subject: > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > >thank you, christie > **************************** Marikelly Block Applications Systems Analyst Senior Cooperative Extension University of Arizona 301 Forbes Bldg. Tucson, AZ 85721 520-626-9174 mblock@ag.arizona.edu From TSHakala@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 31 20:16:33 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:16:33 -0700 From: Sue Hakala TSHakala@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] YUCCA This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with your yucca. If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most plants = aren't looking their best right about now. The extreme heat and lack of rain = has seriously stressed many plants. It might be that your plant is = sunburned. If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place somehow. It does sound stressed. If you haven't been watering, I would suggest a slow, = deep watering. I use an "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter = of the plant. This is a black hose made from recycled tires available at places like WalMart, Target, etc. I water for 3-4 hours very slowly. = The water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches. Check this by pushing a = metal rod/long screwdriver or something into the ground. If the water doesn't = get to this depth, the roots can't get at it. So long and slow is the way = to go. I water my plants the first of the month, so I don't forget, in = June, July, August, and September assuming that we haven't had enough rain. = Don't water more than this as the soil needs to dry out thoroughly = between waterings or your plant may start to rot from too much moisture. = Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: fscapellit@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. > >What is my problem?? > >We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = on the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from = them. > >Thank you. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong = with
your yucca.  If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most = plants=20 aren't
looking their best right about now.  The extreme heat and = lack of=20 rain has
seriously stressed many plants.  It might be that your = plant is=20 sunburned.
If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place=20 somehow.  It does
sound stressed.   If you haven't = been=20 watering, I would suggest a slow, deep
watering.  I use an=20 "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter of
the = plant.  This is a black hose made from recycled tires available=20 at
places like WalMart, Target, etc.  I water for 3-4 hours very = slowly.  The
water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches.  = Check=20 this by pushing a metal
rod/long screwdriver or something into the=20 ground.  If the water doesn't get
to this depth, the roots can't = get at=20 it.  So long and slow is the way to
go.  I water my plants = the=20 first of the month, so I don't forget, in June,
July, August, and = September=20 assuming that we haven't had enough rain.  Don't water more than = this as=20 the soil needs to dry out thoroughly between waterings or your plant may = start=20 to rot from too much moisture.  Good luck!
-----Original=20 Message-----
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com = <fscapellit@mindspring.com&g= t;
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort = WWW=20 page


>arid_gardener
>Our yuccas' leaves are turning=20 yellow.  There's yellow at the tips (2
inches)or yellow started = in mid=20 leaf and growing larger.
>
>What is my = problem??
>
>We=20 have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = on
the=20 level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from=20 them.
>
>Thank=20 you.
>
>
>
>_____________________________________= __________
>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives=20 - <http://Ag.Arizona= .Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>
>
>
------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960-- From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jul 28 23:19:40 2000 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, mesquite, ironwoods _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jul 30 14:42:46 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 07:42:46 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Salt in Soil - Brown Leaves - Soil Amendments for Arizona - Rain Water This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi, folks – Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the leaves turned totally brown and fell off. When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention of salt in the soil. It said that this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the salt. My questions are: Is this a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area? Where does the salt come from? Could this be the problem of my brown leaves? Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren’t I also washing away good nutrients besides the salt? I’ve been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron and all the other goodies that they might need – though this nutrient business gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, etc.) Sometimes I feel like making a Clue game with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown’s back yard? Answer: Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I’m not talking lollipops). Which brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded): Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., “made in/for Arizona”) better than the national products or is this just marketing hype? And I have yet one more question now that I have your attention. :-) I notice that plants are happier after a good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose. Are there nutrients in the rain that don’t exist in the hose water? Thanks for bearing with me on this Sunday morning. Have a nice day. Ursula Miller, Peoria ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi, = folks =96 Recently some of my plants developed brown spots on the older leaves, then the = leaves turned totally brown and fell off.=A0 = When I looked it up in the Ortho Garden Problem Solver book, it made mention = of salt in the soil.=A0 It said that = this occurs primarily in dry areas where there is little rainfall to wash away the = salt.=A0 =

 

My = questions are:=A0 =

 

Is this = a common occurrence here I the Phoenix area?=A0 Where does the salt come from?=A0 Could this be the problem of my brown leaves?=A0 Does deep watering fix it and, if so, aren=92t I also = washing away good nutrients besides the salt?=A0 =

 

I=92ve = been feeding the plants regularly and try to give the right amount of nitrogen, iron = and all the other goodies that they might need =96 though this nutrient business = gets very confusing sometimes (i.e. old yellow leaves means this, new yellow = leaves means that, yellow leaves with green veins means something else, = etc.)=A0 Sometimes I feel like making a = Clue game with items like What Killed the Roses in Mrs. Brown=92s back yard? =A0=A0Answer:=A0 Mr. Aphid with his Big Suckers (and I=92m not talking = lollipops).

 

Which = brings up another question (sorry to be so long-winded):=A0 Do you think that the products for sale that are marked as region-specific (i.e., =93made in/for Arizona=94) better than the = national products or is this just marketing hype?

 

And I = have yet one more question now that I have your attention.=A0 J<= /span>=A0 I notice that plants are happier = after a good rainfall than after a good watering with the hose.=A0 Are there nutrients in the rain = that don=92t exist in the hose water?

 

Thanks = for bearing with me on this Sunday morning.=A0 = Have a nice day.

 

Ursula Miller, Peoria

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BFF9F9.C0FDE1A0-- From fscapellit@mindspring.com Fri Jul 28 23:24:57 2000 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:24:57 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I sent a message to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu........but never received an answer. Is anybody there? Please help me. From bonnford@amug.org Sun Jul 30 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Jul 2000 15:28:42 -0700 (MST) From: bonnford@amug.org bonnford@amug.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Night-time flying insect: Approx 5/16" long, 4 wings, head & thorax bright green, abdomen yellow with black stripes (like a honey bee). Pest is only present at night on my patio between a mesquite tree and a pomegranite tree. Have not seen during daytime hours. Have run into several each night during the past week at my suburban Phoenix home but last night approximately a half dozen or so followed me back to my porch and 2 entered the house that I killed. No evidence of biting or stinging but they are annoying my dogs at night as well. What is it? Should I be concerned? Should/can I get rid of them? From archsoul@home.com Mon Jul 31 17:24:41 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 10:24:41 -0700 (MST) From: archsoul@home.com archsoul@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are all dates from Palms edible? When are dates harvested? Can I make use of the green dates that have fallen off the Palm Trees after the rain storm? Is there a good website that tells how to dry dates and grapes (for making raisins) in the sun? From mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jul 31 16:20:19 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 09:20:19 -0700 From: Marikelly Block mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Can anyone answer this question? Thanks Kelly >X-Sender: bluemoon@tcsn.net (Unverified) >X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.4 (32) >Date: Sat, 29 Jul 2000 16:48:21 -0500 >To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: christie youngdale >Subject: > >sorry to bother you, but i have a question about growing pumpkins and >haven't had much luck. my vines look great, but the pumpkins that have >grown are yellow like a squash and get mushy when about 4" in diameter. > >Can you help or refer me somewhere?????? i'm lost in internet space! > >thank you, christie > **************************** Marikelly Block Applications Systems Analyst Senior Cooperative Extension University of Arizona 301 Forbes Bldg. Tucson, AZ 85721 520-626-9174 mblock@ag.arizona.edu From TSHakala@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 31 20:16:33 2000 Date: Mon, 31 Jul 2000 13:16:33 -0700 From: Sue Hakala TSHakala@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] YUCCA This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable >From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong with your yucca. If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most plants = aren't looking their best right about now. The extreme heat and lack of rain = has seriously stressed many plants. It might be that your plant is = sunburned. If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place somehow. It does sound stressed. If you haven't been watering, I would suggest a slow, = deep watering. I use an "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter = of the plant. This is a black hose made from recycled tires available at places like WalMart, Target, etc. I water for 3-4 hours very slowly. = The water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches. Check this by pushing a = metal rod/long screwdriver or something into the ground. If the water doesn't = get to this depth, the roots can't get at it. So long and slow is the way = to go. I water my plants the first of the month, so I don't forget, in = June, July, August, and September assuming that we haven't had enough rain. = Don't water more than this as the soil needs to dry out thoroughly = between waterings or your plant may start to rot from too much moisture. = Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: fscapellit@mindspring.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >Our yuccas' leaves are turning yellow. There's yellow at the tips (2 inches)or yellow started in mid leaf and growing larger. > >What is my problem?? > >We have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = on the level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from = them. > >Thank you. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > ------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
From your brief description it is hard to say exactly what is wrong = with
your yucca.  If you live in the Phoenix area, it seems most = plants=20 aren't
looking their best right about now.  The extreme heat and = lack of=20 rain has
seriously stressed many plants.  It might be that your = plant is=20 sunburned.
If so, throw some sunscreen on it and hold it in place=20 somehow.  It does
sound stressed.   If you haven't = been=20 watering, I would suggest a slow, deep
watering.  I use an=20 "ooser" type hose, placed around the outer perimeter of
the = plant.  This is a black hose made from recycled tires available=20 at
places like WalMart, Target, etc.  I water for 3-4 hours very = slowly.  The
water needs to get to a depth of 8-10 inches.  = Check=20 this by pushing a metal
rod/long screwdriver or something into the=20 ground.  If the water doesn't get
to this depth, the roots can't = get at=20 it.  So long and slow is the way to
go.  I water my plants = the=20 first of the month, so I don't forget, in June,
July, August, and = September=20 assuming that we haven't had enough rain.  Don't water more than = this as=20 the soil needs to dry out thoroughly between waterings or your plant may = start=20 to rot from too much moisture.  Good luck!
-----Original=20 Message-----
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com = <fscapellit@mindspring.com&g= t;
To:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Saturday, July 22, 2000 2:26 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort = WWW=20 page


>arid_gardener
>Our yuccas' leaves are turning=20 yellow.  There's yellow at the tips (2
inches)or yellow started = in mid=20 leaf and growing larger.
>
>What is my = problem??
>
>We=20 have them on the north (front of the house) side and they're located = on
the=20 level of our land, but then there's a slight slope downward from=20 them.
>
>Thank=20 you.
>
>
>
>_____________________________________= __________
>Arid_gardener=20 mailing list
>Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu=
>http://Ag.A= rizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>Archives=20 - <http://Ag.Arizona= .Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>
>
>
------=_NextPart_000_0049_01BFFAF1.8C642960-- From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jul 28 23:19:40 2000 Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:19:40 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The following is a book I refer to often for pruning advice: Johnson's Guide to Gardening - Plants for the Arid West - "Pruning, Planting and Care, by Eric A. Johnson. The subtitle is How to Grow More Than 300 Native and Adapted Trees, Shrubs, Ground Covers, Vines and Flowers. There is a grid in the front of the book on when to prune. There is also a section on each plant with description, growing information, water use and pruning and maintenance. I bought mine from amazon.com. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Nuts4u@mciworld.com Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 8:53 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener please recommend a publication on how to prune desert trees, paloverde, mesquite, ironwoods _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 1 00:38:21 2000 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:38:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Insects on Hibiscus The American Hibiscus Society has a very nice web page. You can visit it at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ When you get to their home page, if you look to your left, about three categories down you will a reference to Fertilizer, Insecticide and Pruning. You will find information on the recommended controls for insect pests. I really can't say what type of insect is on your hibiscus. If you want to know, you can try to capture a few and place them in a container, take them to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. There is a Friday morning diagnostics group that meets each week. Be sure to include your name, phone number and pertinent information about the problem. They will then contact you. You can also try visiting a satelite office near you. A list of our offices is found on the "Ask a Gardening Question" page of our website. To view the list, go to http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener stevek@heraeusmtd.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Small black bugs keep getting on a Hibiscus bush. What are they and what can control them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 1 00:49:30 2000 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:49:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Liquid Sulfur for Vineyard Frank: While I can not help you in your search for the supplier of liquid sulfur, I did locate a website that may be of help to you if you do not hear from another gardener on this listserve. You may be able to get assistance from http://www.grapetalk.com/. Sue Bass Master Gardener fdpmm@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > From: F.Don Manthe > To: > Subject: sulfur spray > Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:00 PM > > I need to know where I can obtain a liquid suspension of sulfur for spray > material on grapes . In the past I have used Uniflow Sulfur made by > Leffingwell with six pounds of sulfur per gallon. At this time I am unable > to find this product in the Phoenix Area but would like to find out who > sells this or similar material that I can use on in vineyard. > > Any information about this product would be appreciated > > THANK YOU !! > Frank D Manthe > Chateau Manthe fdpmm@goodnet.com > 317 E Phoenix St > Payson AZ 85541 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 1 01:16:04 2000 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 18:16:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Landscaping assistance While we do not provide a free landscaping service, we can provide you with lots of useful information in making your landscape decisions. If you haven't visited our website, I would suggest that you take a little tour. You can begin at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Our "Timely Tips" section provides homeowners with information organized month-by-month, including monthly "To-Do's", "Don'ts" and frequently asked questions. Be sure to visit our Events page. There are many classes coming up that are geared to gardeners who are new to the valley or new to gardening. By visiting our Publications section, or by going straight there via: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You will find information that addresses nearly every question including turf, tree options, ornamentals. Several publications are available to view on line. The others can be ordered and the information on how to do that is included at this site. Some library branches also have a binder with many of these publications. Another excellent place to start is by scrolling down on that home page to "Recommended Reading". From there you can choose many categories, including one called Landscape Design, Installation and Management. You will find a great list of books that are excellent on this topic. The section entitled "Links" provides other valuable resources. What state did you move from? Sue Bass Master Gardener monthly ambervann2@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently relocated to Arizona and purchased a new home in Anthem. In my previous city, the extension office provided landscaping services free of charge for home owners. Do you know if the city of Phoenix offers any services such as this? Any kind of service where someone will come out and help you determine which plants/trees/sod to plant and then assist in the landscaping? Thank you for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NatalieWS@aol.com Sat Jul 1 04:46:29 2000 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:46:29 EDT From: NatalieWS@aol.com NatalieWS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? Hi, I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 1 04:57:17 2000 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:57:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? We have a publication available - publication no. MC59 - Backyard Grapes available. You can find information on ordering this publication at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. Some of the library branches also have a binder containing the publications so its worth a check there, if the library branch near you has it you can make a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener NatalieWS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > > Hi, > I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. > Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 1 05:01:24 2000 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Growing Sugar Cane and Loquats I'd like to refer you to the California Rare Fruit Growers (AZ Chapter) for an answer here. I know that they can give you information on the loquats. They may even have info on the sugar cane. The following page contains information on how to contact them with our question: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Good Luck! Sue Bass susras@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Have sugar cane and it is growing well. Developing large canes and is having a hard time staying upright. When do I harvest? Forgot to ask that when I got it. > > Also, do loquats do well here, and under what conditions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pattiannn@mindspring.com Sun Jul 2 03:20:16 2000 Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:20:16 -0700 (MST) From: pattiannn@mindspring.com pattiannn@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a silk oak in my backyard that oozes what looks like sap during the spring. The silk oak I have in the front yard does not do this. Other than the sap, the silk oak in the back seems healthy and has been growing. Is this something I should be worried about? From number1@netcom.ca Sun Jul 2 15:23:23 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:23:23 -0700 (MST) From: number1@netcom.ca number1@netcom.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page need to know the care for a calamandin "orange tree" being kept in the house From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Sun Jul 2 23:02:34 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:02:34 -0700 From: Pauline Marx PlantPerson@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page,calamandin orange Calamandin orange may produce white fragrant flowers and small bitter oranges nearly all year round . Cultivation is straight forward. The basic requirements are good drainage, freedom from drafts, moderate watering all year round, fertilization all year round but less in winter, , cool but not cold conditions in winter. Summer should be spent out of doors. Two tips- pollinate the flowers by dabbing with cotton balls and apply a fertilizer with magnesium if the leaves yellow. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona From ClaireASP@aol.com Sun Jul 2 23:29:50 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:29:50 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi there.I have two questions. First, I know that you are not suppose to water Bouganvilla very often; but how often should you actually do it? Please advise for both summer and winter.Secondly, I have several Jacaranda trees. They are sprouting new branches down the lower part of the tree trunk. Should I cut those off? Thanks for your time and help. I read your questions and answers everyday, and have learned alot from your web site. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jul 3 01:36:39 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:36:39 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Water sprouts on a Jacaranda Claire, as soon as you see water sprouts growing from the trunk of your Jacaranda tree you should cut them off. If your Bougainvillea is established ( in the ground for one year ), then summer watering should be every 3 to 4 weeks. For winter watering at least double the frequency of summer watering. Good luck. Rod From mhills_sro@msn.com Mon Jul 3 06:53:14 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:53:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this information will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but would rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1@email.msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer but will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, what will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall to have a winter lawn. >Thanks for your response. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun Jul 2 23:44:15 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:44:15 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun Jul 2 23:45:06 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:45:06 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. Sincerely, Bernice From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jul 3 02:13:45 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:13:45 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Wisteria - Hardenbergia I would suggest planting the Australian wisteria, called hardenbergia, which is available in most nurseries and home centers in the spring (and maybe fall). It is an evergreen so it doesn't make a mess and has lovely violet blue flowers in the spring. It's really beautiful when it flowers. I started mine from a 1 gallon pot 1-1/2 years ago and it now covers a whole corner and much of the walls of my northwest wall. I have it on my drip system with many of the shrubs and it just keep growing and growing. I'm really amazed how this plant does so well in the heat - stays green year-round and then has those periodic wonderful flowers. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Dodty5@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 3:56 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Wisteria arid_gardener Does anyone know if we can grow Wisteria in the Phoenix area? If so where can one buy the appropriate type? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jul 3 02:16:19 2000 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:16:19 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers - Book There's a good book by Eric A Johnson in his Western Garden series. It's called "How to Grow the Wildflowers - When and How to Plant Over 180 Native and Adapted Varieties". You can get it from Amazon.com Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 8:35 PM To: capt61@mail.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers arid_gardener You can check out our list of publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers My favorite wildflower catalog, which I look at as much as a reference work, is Wildseed Farms www.wildseedfarms.com Locally, we used to have in Tempe a company called Wild Seed [PN 276-3536] but I haven't been in contact with them for a while. Native Seed Search in Tucson, has a few pages on wildflowers in its catalog www.azstarnet.com/~nss/index.html In general, we plant wildflower seeds in the fall/early winter in the low desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener capt61@mail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello. Thank you for this service.Is there anyone or site to ask about the propigation of Wild flowers? capt61@mail.com cares :] > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From b737jet@aol.com Mon Jul 3 20:58:16 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:58:16 -0700 (MST) From: b737jet@aol.com b737jet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello: Have an 6 yr old Austrailian Willow that is sick. The tree has 4 main limbs coming from its main trunk. One of these limbs seems to be dying. Of the branches coming from this limb, each are dying one at a time. Its leaves turn brown and fall off. This started late summer last year. The tree is in a raised bed on the NE corner of the yard along side another Austrailin Willow. It does get full sun all day. It had a bark mulch around it which has been removed. It is on a drip system with 3 emitters at 2 gal/hr each and runs for 2 hrs twice a week. Upon removing the bark mulch from around the tree, the soil around it did not seem to be moist as if I was over watering. The limb's bark seems to be pulling away, I can easily remove it to expose more of the limb. The limb also appears to have deep cracks in it. The limb & leaves appear to be very dry. The tree has not recieved any feedings last summer or this year. Thanks in advance for any help you could give us in this matter. You can contact us at b737jet@aol.com or at these telephone numbers: home: 480-759-0261 after 3pm work:602-221-7872 - wife Jackie 7am-4pm Larry Larsen From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jul 4 00:33:37 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:33:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Australian Willow dying Larry, The first thing that you need to correct is the irrigation. You need to give the tree more water on a less frequent basis,ie replace the 2 gallon drippers with adjustable ones located at the dripline and run your system for 6 hours every two weeks in the summer. By applying more water you encourage the roots to go deeper, and flush the salt out of the root zone. I would also recommend replacing the mulch around the tree, it will help to conserve moisture, keep the roots cooler and provide a constsnt source of humas. The lack of adequate moisture has caused the tree to become stressed, and when the tree is stressed it becomes susceptable to all kind of insects and diseases. The Master Gardener Manual which is on line has an excellent chapter on irrigation which you can find at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Gojic@home.net Tue Jul 4 00:03:40 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: Gojic@home.net Gojic@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Jul 4 01:07:18 2000 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 18:07:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale You can view an on-line information sheet on pearl scale at the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Unfortunately, there is no effective way to eliminate these pests from lawns at this time. You can view further information on Pearl Scale )which may have some suggestions you can try) in our archives. One particular past note I located is at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0159.html To look up a subject in our archives, go to: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in the subject you are looking for. Past correspondence on this subject will be listed there. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Gojic@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Tue Jul 4 01:32:14 2000 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:32:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page - lawns Dear Earle - now that I know you are here in the Valley of the Sun, lawn ideas and suggestions are fairly easy. Under full sun conditions, some sort of bermudagrass is the turf of choice here in the Desert Southwest. Generally, bermudas need a minimum of about 15 inches of annual moisture to survive and grow fairly well - more water means more growth and a lot thicker, healthier growth - turf experts and researchers recommend upwards of 40 inches per year for the healthiest bermuda turf.. Since we only get about 7 inches of annual moisture, and since it is not evenly spread out over the year, your bermuda lawn will most likely die or drastically thin out during your summer of no watering. A deep watering regime in the spring will mean your bermuda will be a lot healthier going into the summer - maybe even give it a couple of very deep water applications in March and April to give a good moisture bse several feet down where the deep-rooted bermuda can still retrieve it during the summer. This could mean more live bermuda the following fall, when you return to Mesa. As you only want grass during the winter when you are here, this should not effect you very much. Winter ryegrass overseeding is generally recommended after October 15th as daytime temperatures drop into the low 90's and lower. Usually this overseeding is applied into a dormant bermudagrass base, so that the dormant bermuda provides a mat or strong base for the ryegrass to root into and grow on top of. With your bermuda base dead or very thin from no summer watering, you will be planting your ryegrass into bare soil. This works fairly well, but with no dormant bermuda base, the ryegrass may wear out under high traffic during the winter growing season. Rake or till the soil surface to create a good seed bed and plant the ryegrass seed about 1/2 inch deep - your local garden center will have detailed seeding and care instructions in time for your fall seed planting. You should be fine though. BE VERY SURE that the ryegrass seed you buy for planting this winter says "Perennial Ryegrass seed" somewhere on the label - lots and lots of different brands and varieties and mixtures, but be sure it says perennial as this provides a far superior winter turf surface. DO NOT plant anything that says "Annual Ryegrass" as this is a light green, fast tall growing and very wet mowing, messy grass for winter. Perennial ryegrass seed is a little more expensive than annual ryegrass seed, but the added cost is very worth it - much much better winter turf, more wear and tear tolerant, much darker green, shorter growing so less mowing and it mows "dry" without all the slimey green wet clippings that can stain clothes, shoes, walkways, etc. Perennial ryegrass as a winter turf does not need to be mowed nearly as often as annual ryegrass does. Plant about 8-10 pounds of perennial ryegrass seed per 1,000 square feet sometime between October 15 and September 15 - earlier plantings suffer from the late summer heat, while later plantings have a harder time establishing due to the cooling soil temperatures. DO NOT plant any more than the recommended 10 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet - a too heavy seeding rate will cause disease problems and weak, overcrowded ryegrass plants that you will not be happy with. The ryegrass will start to fade out in sunny areas the following spring as temperatures get over mid-90's. Ryegrass may even be gone by the time you depart for your summer home. Some plants may stick around in shaded areas until they run out of water while you are gone for the summer - ryegrass is not at all tolerant of drought. You would need to replant the ryegrass each winter - perennial ryegrass is a year round grass in cooler climate areas (probably wherever you are from and returning to as a summer home) - but in our hot summer, the ryegrass only lives for one season. Hope this has helped. With our temperature extremes from below freezing in winter to 120 degrees plus in summer, we are a bit limited on our grass choices here. BUT, a combination of a bermuda for summer with a ryegrass for summer works out extremely well. Under more normal circumstances, the summer bermuda is a permanent turfgrass - returning and regrowing each year. Good Luck, mike hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener Research Agronomist, Seed Research - Arizona *********************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1 To: Mike Hills Date: Monday, July 03, 2000 12:45 PM Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Thanks for your reply Mike. You are correct; the home is in Mesa > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mike Hills" >To: ; >Cc: "Linda A. Guy" >Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:53 PM >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this >information >> will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are >> here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but >would >> rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all >> over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - >> Maricopa County Master Gardener >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: earleburd1@email.msn.com >> To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM >> Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> >> >> >arid_gardener >> >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer >but >> will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, >what >> will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall >> to have a winter lawn. >> >Thanks for your response. >> > >> > >> > >> >_______________________________________________ >> >Arid_gardener mailing list >> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> >Archives - >> > >> > >> > > > From J_chitwood@email.msn.com Tue Jul 4 18:20:18 2000 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:20:18 -0700 (MST) From: J_chitwood@email.msn.com J_chitwood@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jul 4 19:11:37 2000 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:11:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Silk Oak oozing sap Patti, When a tree grown in the low desert oozes sap, it is an indication that the tree is under stress, and many times that stress is caused by improper irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From PatFlynn@prodigy.net Wed Jul 5 03:07:24 2000 Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:07:24 -0700 (MST) From: PatFlynn@prodigy.net PatFlynn@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. Thanks, Pat From AzTeacher8@aol.com Wed Jul 5 14:16:32 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) From: AzTeacher8@aol.com AzTeacher8@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From candscamp@aol.com Wed Jul 5 16:47:27 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 09:47:27 -0700 (MST) From: candscamp@aol.com candscamp@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks From devans@dot.state.az.us Wed Jul 5 17:05:53 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:05:53 -0700 (MST) From: devans@dot.state.az.us devans@dot.state.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Juniperus scopulorum in a landscape in Holbrook with tops dying and trees turning brownish. They're recieving adequate water twice weekly as indicated by other healthy trees within close proximity. pH of soil is >8, boron content is between 0.4 and 2.0ppm, and Na content is between 5 and 8.6ppm. We were wondering if you could help. From millero@azcentral.com Wed Jul 5 18:30:42 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:30:42 -0700 From: Olin millero@azcentral.com Subject: [AG] Re: Saving Melon Seeds As you probably know, if the parent melons are hybrids, their seeds may not produce melons like the parents. Also, cantaloupes and melons crosspollinate and different ypes should be isolated from each other if you want to save. seed. To clean, rub the seeds between the hands to loosen the pulp,. the rinse with water several times in a pan pouring off the debris and floater seeds each time. When the seeds are appear clean, apply cold water under pressure to remove any residual sugar, dry in a plate or saucer. then store in a cool place like the refrigerator. It sometimes helps to ferment the seeds in water for a few days but it is usually not necessary. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. > Thanks, > Pat Sent by azcentral.com mail! From saz621@primenet.com Wed Jul 5 18:57:01 2000 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:57:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Shade structure We built ours by taking conduit and the approprite fittings to make it an arch over the bed. Large spikes were set in the ground and the pipe was simply inserted into it and attached the same way on the other side. The latest Maricopa County MG Communicator (I think) had a splendid description with much more detail on how to accompish this. I have also seen excellent results by taking PVC pipe and attaching it to the sides of a wooden raised bed with pipe wrap on each side to make an arch. I have also built frame that more resembled a teepee by lashing bamboo poles together across the bed then running one down the center, like a purlin. Good luck, Mary From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jul 5 19:02:26 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:02:26 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [When to plant Winter Squash and Sweetcorn In the low desert, plant winter squash the last 2 weeks in July. Refer to the Cooperative Extension's Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a complete vegetable planting schedule. Some of the smaller winter squashes (e.g., Butternut , Acorn, Spaghetti) can also be planted in March. See http://home.att.net/~millero/wintersquash.html for some more tips. Plant sweetcorn from mid February through March and from mid July through August per the Vegetable Planting Calendar. In the spring, wait to plant the super sweet sh2 types until March when the soil is warmer. See http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html for more tips about sweetcorn. , ----- Original Message ----- From: > I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jul 5 19:03:46 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:03:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Shade Screen Depends on how permanent you want the shade screen to be. One easy method is to construct a frame using EMT pipes (thinwall electrical conduit), anchor it to the ground and cover it with shade cloth available at garden centers, Home Depot, Home Base, etc. You could also frame it with PVC irrigation pipe but if it is not the UV stabilized type, it will become gets brittle from the sunlight with a year or so. Helps to paint . -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? > Thanks From hckymom@gateway.net Wed Jul 5 21:27:48 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:27:48 -0700 (MST) From: hckymom@gateway.net hckymom@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet From DavidWanda@compuserve.com Wed Jul 5 22:20:08 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: DavidWanda@compuserve.com DavidWanda@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. Can you help? Wanda From neilkupper@earthlink.net Wed Jul 5 22:46:55 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:46:55 -0700 (MST) From: neilkupper@earthlink.net neilkupper@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? From henryr@kaibab.com Thu Jul 6 00:37:33 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:37:33 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 01:33:10 2000 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:33:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Tough-skinned Tomatoes You can view a previous response by a fellow Master Gardener to a similar question at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001294.html High temperatures, dryness in the air and sunshine can all play a role in toughening up the skin of tomatoes. We got some pretty high temps pretty early this summer. In George Brookbanks' book "Desert Gardening" he mentions that tomatoes grown in the desert tend to have leathery skins. A remedy he suggests is to grow varieties that hide their fruit under a canopy of leaves. Don't expose the fruit by staking the plants and pruning out their side shoots. Instead, encourage plants to bush out and scramble over the ground keeping it moist and the inside of the bush humid. He says to then look inside the jungle to find the softest, sweetest, thinnest-skinned fruit. We have a Fact Sheet on growing Tomatoes In Desert Gardens. For information on ordering a copy, please visit: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm The fact sheet is number MC22. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener DavidWanda@compuserve.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. > > Can you help? > > Wanda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 01:44:48 2000 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:44:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash I consulted George Brookbank's book, "Desert Gardening" and on the subject of squash he advises "succession sowing". He says that because of the initial rapid growth and quick-fruiting habits of squash, it is better to make several sowings rather than keep an individual plant for as long as you can. The book suggests pulling up an old plant. It takes up a lot more space, it easily tires, and it's almost sure to get vine borers. His suggestion is to sow a second lot of seeds two weeks after you harvest the first fruit from the previous sowing. He says this way you may be able to get four sowings between the end of March and mid-September. He says in the book that one year in Tucson a second sowing of seeds was made on July 4th and the fruit were ready to eat within 30 days. I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop - Thanks for writing! Sue Bass Master Gardener Henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mikendeb@thesurf.com Thu Jul 6 02:21:58 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:21:58 -0700 (MST) From: mikendeb@thesurf.com mikendeb@thesurf.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? Thank you for your time.Deb From swenty@ctaz.com Thu Jul 6 02:33:01 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:01 -0700 (MST) From: swenty@ctaz.com swenty@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 6 03:34:22 2000 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:34:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass >... > I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop ...! Might be better to wait a few weeks else the squash may bloom and the blossoms fade while the temps are still too high for pollination. Tucson is about 1000 feet higher in elevation than Phoenix and the midsummer temps are about 10 degrees lower. What works there usually works here as well but at a different time. Their spring season trails 3-4 weeks in the spring and their fall leads by several weeks as well. But if space permits, why not give it a try. I planted corn this spring well after the recommended date to see if it would pollinate. In the corn patch with no manual pollinating assistance but there were a lot of large blank spaces on the ears. The ears in the patch with early morning assistance (shaking the stalk) filled in fairly well but not as well as when planted during the regular season. -Olin From mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 6 16:51:03 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:51:03 -0700 (MST) From: mbuksas@worldnet.att.net mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 6 18:17:07 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:17:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? It's often called "yard-long" cucumber. It's really in the melon family - sometimes called "snake melon".. Grows very well in the low desert. Best used as a cucumber when they are still small cucumber-sized - they really become a yard long if you let them grow and they very rapidly, faster than zucchini. Quite a few listings on the web. Use search keyword "Armenian cucumber". -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jul 6 12:57:02 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 05:57:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Cereus Cactus Mine had the same thing and I didn't know what to do about it. So I hosed it down with a jet spray, thinking that maybe there was some kind of bug causing this brown, hard scaly 'growth'. It worked. The spots went away and have not returned. Maybe I was just lucky and the timing was right. But you might give this a try. It's my all-time favorite approach to everything I don't understand in the garden. Hose it down. If it works, fine. If not, it's back to the drawing board. :) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of swenty@ctaz.com Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:33 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cntaz@aol.com Thu Jul 6 19:03:07 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) From: cntaz@aol.com cntaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? Thank you for any help. From dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Thu Jul 6 18:03:32 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:03:32 -0700 (MST) From: dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me select a turf for residential use. I would like a turf that: 1. has low water use 2. relatively low maintenance, not a lot of thatch build up quickly. 3. Low pollen production for allergies 4. Does not spread into gardens aggressively 5. Does not have a broad stem and cut be cut with non-reel type tiff mower. From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 20:57:08 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:57:08 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants in Vegetable Garden I shouldn't have thought that ants would be the culprit if your vegetation is being devoured. Ant biology and methods of control is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm There are several ideas that you can try before resorting to sprays or pellets. What concerns me is the identification of what IS eating your crops. Check out the plant diagnasotic section of our Timely Tips column for July, to see if any of the many situations cited apply to your vegetable patch. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener cntaz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? > Thank you for any help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:00:50 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:00:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants We have a good fact sheet that includes ant biology and management at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm I don't ever worry about ants unless they come in the house. With a lovely rotting compost pile outside in a far corner of the yard, any ants [roaches for that matter, too] seem to find that section much more appealing than my home! They are good to keep the compost pile moving, and in a recent article published in the Republic by one of our Ag Agents, ants can do alot of good for the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener neilkupper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:14:38 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:14:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Apple Spots Coddling moths are sometimes a problem....the larva are the proverbial worms in the apple...that burrow to the apple core leaving spots on the outer surface of the apples. See the relevant discussion in the Master Gardener Manual, Entomology chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/deciduous.html Another possibility is that your trees may be suffering from irregular irrigation and resulting poor calcium uptake. See the Manual's pathology section at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specifictrees.html To brush up on fruit tree care, you might like to peruse this chapter of the Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy PoetEvan@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Some apples on my tree have a brown spot which usually begins on the botton, becomes larger, soften and rots, and eventually infects the entire apple. > > What spray should I use? Is there more than one solution to the problem? > I recently bougth my house, I didn't plant the tree;I assume taht the apples are golden delicious. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:30:52 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:30:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Stick in the Ground Propogation If you have more than one stick, you could always experiment and put one in your soil. You might want to read the section of the Propogation Chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Among other things you would want to remove buds which would sap the energy you want to go into rooting, use a rooting hormone to encourage same, and use a good rooting medium rather than soil. You'll want to keep it evenly moist to encourage the roots. Sometimes, for woody specimens, it is better to take the cutting in the fall/winter or dormant season. Linda Guy Master Gardener 99fathead@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a large branch from a weeping willow > tree. I was told that if I dig a hole double > the size of the branch diameter hence "stick > it in the ground, it will grow. Is this true? > Please advise. Thank you, Jen. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:26:06 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:26:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fish Oil for the Birds The best way to protect fruits from the birds is to enclose each tree with a broad-mesh netting 2 to 3 weeks before the fruit matures. Others have hung strips of foil or shiny papers whose rustling in the breeze is said to deter the birds. As to fish oil's use in the matter, I am unaware of any reference thereto. It can be used as a foliar fertilizer, though I've not heard of its use for fruit trees. I haven't used it because neighborhood cats in my yards are already a problem for me, and I'm afraid the smell would be even greater enticement. Many nurseries have this product, as do the organic farm & garden supply catalogs like Peaceful Valley Farm. Linda Guy Master Gardener. SAHend@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Does fish oil repel birds from fruit trees? If so, where can I purchase it? > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:39:10 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:39:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! Linda Guy Master Gardener lxs@deainc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Jul 6 21:47:35 2000 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:47:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Color for Payson Have you contacted your county's cooperative extension office yet? They would have a much better appreciation of your area's needs and the vegetation that grows best there. Your situation is different than our low desert in Phoenix. The other thing you might try is to order Home Horticulture publications [many of what we use are specifically designed for Maricopa County, however]. We have a listing on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you could look through the flowers or ornamentals section for example. Would your library's reference section [#635] happen to have a notebook with these publications? Good books are listed on our reference list for selecting plants, which you can view at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-plnt.htm Several you might consider are by Mielke and Schuler who discuss elevation and other climate needs in their books. Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener bjm@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From selligirl@aol.com Thu Jul 6 22:03:40 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: selligirl@aol.com selligirl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted an Arizona Ash Tree in April, 2000. This tree started out with small white bugs that killed the leaves. I sprayed it with soapy water twice. I had less bugs, but then noticed a white fungus on the stem of the leaves. I purchased an insecticide/fungicide from the store and sprayed the tree twice. I no longer see these bugs or the fungus, and now the leaves are turning brown. The tree looks like it is producing new leaves, yet as soon as they open they turn brown. My watering schedule is approximately once every 10 days. I check the ground two feet deep with a probe to make sure that I am not overwatering. Are the leaves turning brown from the heat or is it possible that something else is wrong with it? Thank You. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jul 7 00:20:20 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:20:20 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Junipers turning brown Junipers are a good host for spider mites and this is the time of year for them to be active. Also twig borers are active now, they will cause branch ends to die and turn brown.The spider mites can usually be controlled by frequent hosing down of the shrub with a strong stream of water; the twig borers will require an application or two of Sevin or diazanon. Even though you say that the trees are getting ample water I suspect that some or all of the problem may lie with the irrigation. You are watering twice a week when abetter plan would be to deep water once every two weeks in summer unless the trees were just planted. Watering depth should be three feet plus. The deep water will encourage the roots to go deep and will flush the salt out of the root zone. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. A mulch around the trees will help to keep the soil cool, conserve moisture, keep down weeds and provide a source of humus. Why not checkout the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html I don't feel qualified to answer your question about your soil test. Perhaps someone else on line will do so. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jul 7 03:58:27 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:58:27 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peach tree problems Sabita, The life expectancy of the peach tree is 10 to 20 years, so it could be headed down hill from old age. The peach tree is also susceptable to Texas Root Rot however TRR doesn't usually strike until mid to late summer. It will show a comlete colapse within a short time ( one week ) The leaves all wilt, turn yellow and brown and hang on the tree. This may happen to one half the tree at one time. Your peach tree should be pruned annually in the winter to give you a better fruit crop. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin describing how it should be done. Now we are comming to what I think is the biggest problem--- irrigation. You are watering five times a week when deep watering once a week would be very ample. By deep watering I mean water that penetrates to over three feet deep. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From clydic@netzone.com Fri Jul 7 01:47:12 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:47:12 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Contact Glen McCombs or Kathy at Plant Fair Nursery in Star Valley. They carry a broad selection of native and adapted plants that are low water use and would do well in your case. Good luck!! Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bjm@cybertrails.com Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 4:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Jul 7 15:06:51 2000 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:06:51 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from AgInfo site (fwd) > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 21:46:07 -0700 (MST) >From: ed-gayle@home.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from AgInfo site > >A new comment has been posted to AgInfo > >Individual: Gayle Fischer >Email: ed-gayle@home.com >City: Mesa State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: HELP. I don't know where to ask this question. We live in Mesa >near Lindsay & Broadway. I grew up in southeastern U.S. I went outside >one morning last week and our driveway was covered with >ants. Unfortunately, so was the grass I walked through without noticing >them. I was bitten numerous times by ants that are reddish-brown and >about 1/8" long. The bites, which burned terribly and swelled, formed >pustules on top, like fire ants. There are no obvious "fire ant >mounds". Are these fire ants, and if so, what can we do about them. I >know that in the south, the County had to deal with them because nothing >the public could use would eradicate them. >Category: Public > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jul 7 16:05:17 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:05:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ants Gayle, I've had excellent luck getting rid of outdoor ants by using Diazonon granules spread near their nest. They will usually be gone in one or two days. A non toxic material that works nearly as well but not as fast is citrus peel and water chewed up in a blender. Pour the mixture into the ant hill. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jul 7 16:53:51 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:53:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Arizona Ash, leaves turning brown Once the Arizona Ash has become established, a 10 day or greater irrigation interval for summer watering in the low desert would be fine. However your tree has only been planted approximately three months and the roots have not had a chance to become established. I would recommend an irrigation interval of 7 days of deep watering to a depth in excess of two feet. If the tree was planted from a 24 inch box or larger then the watering depth should be three feet. If you applied the insecticide fungicide according to label instructions, watered well the previous day, applied early or late in the day and the daily temperature was not in excess of that recommended by the label, then the burning should not have been from that source. I suspect that the brown leaves are most likely from under watering. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZSHAG@aol.com Fri Jul 7 05:29:15 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0700 (MST) From: AZSHAG@aol.com AZSHAG@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am installing plants at my Phoenix residence. Last week I installed five-gallon sized containers of hibiscus, canary island palm, red yucca, cape honeysuckle, natal plum and red bird of paradise. Many of them are stressing which I anticipated, but I am confused about how I should be watering them. I installed drip emitters to them, but I am afraid I am either over watering or not watering enough. They all are getting full sun (I am shading the hibiscus from afternoon sun) and I backfilled holes with native soil and mulch mixture as suggested from the nursery. Any suggestions for water cycle on newly installed plants? What about vitamin supplements to help with stress? Any feedback would be appreciated. (P.S. I apologize if this question has been duplicated, I left a near identical question elsewhere) From neskovich@home.com Fri Jul 7 20:16:51 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:16:51 -0700 (MST) From: neskovich@home.com neskovich@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you EFFECTIVELY get rid of crabgrass which is growing through rock landscaping and mixing in with the existing plants without killing the wanted plants? Please help, I am frustrated. From kkturner@srpnet.com Fri Jul 7 18:21:25 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:21:25 -0700 (MST) From: kkturner@srpnet.com kkturner@srpnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need advise about an orlando tangelo tree. It is a young tree I had planted 2 years ago. It is about 5 feet tall. I have an irrigated lot. About a week ago, all the leaves suddenly tried. The wood still appears to be green but there are no functioning leaves left. It has been suggested I can severely prune the tree and it might come back. Is this possible? If so I need more exact instructions and a timeframe. I'd appreciate any suggestions! You can also phone me at 602-236-6969 or 480-835-0545 From camden@dancris.com Fri Jul 7 01:17:21 2000 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:21 -0700 (MST) From: camden@dancris.com camden@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? From KSWagner2@aol.com Fri Jul 7 13:42:33 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: KSWagner2@aol.com KSWagner2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Spanish Dager Yucca. The tips of the leaves appear to be burned as if someone might have used a lighter. The plant is in full sun on the south side of the house. Can you give me some idea of what the problem might be? Thank you. From ClaireASP@aol.com Fri Jul 7 21:16:53 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:16:53 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was at the Home Depot today and found a plant that had Sago written on the pot.But it looks very different than the usual Sago that we see. Are there more than one variety of Sagos? Nobody at Home Depot could give me any information on this plant. Might you know which one I am talking about? If so, does this variety need as much shade as the regular Sago needs? My son has told me that he has seen a plant in somebodys yard that kind of looks like a Sago, but it is planted in full sun. Could the plant that I saw at Home Depot be the same one that he has seen? By the way, I bought one; so if you can give me any info, I sure would appreciate it. From datura@mail.inet-images.com Fri Jul 7 22:14:31 2000 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 15:14:31 -0700 From: Silvia McDonald datura@mail.inet-images.com Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable (for me) locations. What is the best way, if any, to move these? What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. Thanks Silvia McDonald From saz621@primenet.com Fri Jul 7 23:17:09 2000 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:17:09 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Sago is part of the common name of Sago palm, which is really a cycad not a palm at all. There are dozens of species from all over the world, but Cycas revoluta, Sago palm is far and away the most commonly sold. They can be grown in full sun if slowly acclimated to it, either by providing shade in the summer, delaying planting until fall, or enduring the burn and loss of all existing leaves and waiting for the new ones to emerge fully sun hardy. Partial shade is much better. Mary From sterlin@magma.ca Fri Jul 7 20:56:43 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:56:43 -0700 (MST) From: sterlin@magma.ca sterlin@magma.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jul 8 05:44:07 2000 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:44:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Rafflesia ----- Original Message ----- From: > Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? From http://www.didyouknow.com/flowers.htm "The largest flower in the world, the rafflesia arnoldi, weighs 7 kg (15 pounds) and grows only on the Sumatra island of Indonesia. Its petals grow to ½ metre (1,6 feet) long and 2,5 cm (1 inch) thick." -Olin From cincy@uswest.net Sat Jul 8 13:42:29 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 06:42:29 -0700 (MST) From: cincy@uswest.net cincy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? From kmieb@hotmail.com Sat Jul 8 16:19:56 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:19:56 -0700 (MST) From: kmieb@hotmail.com kmieb@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello... I have a couple of questions I was hoping you might answer.The first one has to do with my potted plants and their diet. I have been giving them fish emulsion and am sure that they have enough nitrogen but I can see that they are lacking some other important nutrients. So here is my question, What nutrients might they be lacking and where can I find an organic fertilizer that will do the trick. My second question has to do with my chiles and these brown spots on them. Could these spots be signs of blossom-end rot? Thank you so much for your time. From vlindsay98@yahoo.com Sat Jul 8 14:06:42 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:06:42 -0700 (MST) From: vlindsay98@yahoo.com vlindsay98@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? From sandiwilson@hotmail.com Sat Jul 8 17:08:47 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:08:47 -0700 (MST) From: sandiwilson@hotmail.com sandiwilson@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 8 20:45:12 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:45:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Grapes We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener sandiwilson@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 8 20:55:08 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:55:08 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Walking Cane I need a bit more information from you on the plant you are referring to. Are you speaking of Corylus a. 'Contorta', known as Harry Lauder's Walking Stick? If so, according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, this plant is not recommended for our zone. It is listed for zones 1-9 and 14-20. Our Sunset zone is 13. If this is not the shrub you are referring to, please let me know and I will do more research. Sue Bass Master Gardener vlindsay98@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Jul 8 21:26:19 2000 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:26:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Bouganvillea and Bottlebrush You can find information on propagating woody plants from cuttings in our on-line Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Sue Bass Master Gardener camden@dancris.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jul 8 22:32:17 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:32:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Crabgrass, getting rid of when growing amid broad leaf plants An herbicide commonly called Flazifop is designed to rid landscapes of grassy weeds that are growing up amid broadleaf plants that you want to save. One trade name that I have used is Grass Be Gone. Good luck. Rod From sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Sun Jul 9 17:34:02 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (MST) From: sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? From lampton@uswest.net Sun Jul 9 16:45:42 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:45:42 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From lampton@uswest.net Sun Jul 9 16:42:33 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Sun Jul 9 02:47:09 2000 Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 19:47:09 -0700 (MST) From: Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Japenese pine and half the tree looks like it's dieing. The needles are yellow with brown tips. From clairedc@peaplepc.com Sun Jul 9 20:05:22 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:05:22 -0700 (MST) From: clairedc@peaplepc.com clairedc@peaplepc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. Should anything be applied to bare spot where bark is missing? From caroler@netuser.com Sun Jul 9 19:43:16 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:43:16 -0700 (MST) From: caroler@netuser.com caroler@netuser.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are adding a door where a window now exists. Planted close is a white fig tree. We have to put cement steps in front of the door, but when we took out the hedge, we discovered one of the large roots from our fig tree is above the ground right where we need to put the steps. My question is: How much of a root system can you remove without damaging the tree? We live in Sunnyvale, CA (Zone 15) Thank you in advance for your reply. Best Regards, Carole Richborg From sjbass@uswest.net Sun Jul 9 21:56:17 2000 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 14:56:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Watering needs of Acacia Lew: I would suggest deep watering your tree to a depth of 3 feet once every two weeks during the summer months. You can check the depth by inserting a metal rod into the ground. The deep watering washes the salts away from the tree roots. I'd like to refer you to an archived response from Fellow Master Gardener and Arborist, Rod McKusik. You can view his response at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3187.html Here at my home, we deep water our trees once every two weeks. We water with emitters and we run them for two hours per watering. Sue Bass Master Gardener lampton@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, > Sincerely, > Lew > lampton@uswest.net > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun Jul 9 22:07:31 2000 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva Cindy: The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. Sue Bass Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. > Thank you, > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun Jul 9 22:33:07 2000 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:33:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Damaged tree bark In our archives I found an answer to a similar question, given by Rod McKusik, fellow Master Gardener and Arborist. In his response Rod states, "It has been found that injured trees will heal better if nothing is applied to the wound. It is reccomended that any loose bark be trimed back to live wood." Sue Bass Master Gardener clairedc@peaplepc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. > Should anything be applied to bare spot where > bark is missing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jul 10 00:54:03 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:54:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig tree with damaged roots Carole, If your fig tree has other roots it should survive the loss of one root. When you cut off the root be sure to leave a clean cut and do not use any type of sealer. It is very important that the tree receive adequate deep watering to minimise the amount of stress. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 10 03:58:32 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:58:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva There is also a good picture of the "lady bug larva" stage at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ladybug.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass > The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 15:32:07 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:32:07 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Worms I'm sorry to have kept you waiting so long. I had hoped that the relevant section of our archives, with a similar response of mine, would become available, but it appears we are having some technical difficulties. Red wrigglers, used for bait, are not thought to be heat-hardy in our soils or compost piles. I've heard this at several presentations on the topic. Many people will purchase a cup to start a vermicomposting operation inside their home, which is essentially processing your vegetal scraps and newspaper strips with worms in a large covered container in a dark, cooler corner of the house. You can contact a place called AZWORMZ at Azwormz@aol.com or 480-968-2318 for a nice printout. The September 1999 issue of Phoenix Home & Garden [p. 32] had a good three page writeup on vermicomposting. Also the "Rotline" of the Santa Clara County Home Composting Education Program [408-299-4147; that is 408 not 480 for east valley!] has an excellent brochure as well. Outdoors, my prepared soil is jam-packed with the native worms because I put in organic matter twice a year. I've never added worms in my prepared beds. I don't see the critters in the summer, because they descend out of the heat's range. As the weather cools, the top level of the soil is a veritable worm metropolis! In fact, in the areas that stay shaded under a dwarf line during 3 months of the winter, they are virtually on the surface. I can tell because about a 9 square foot area is covered in castings, the worms' fecal matter which is the object of vermicomposting after all. The castings in the sunny areas are within the soil, doing good work too. Hope this helps with your worm question. Linda Guy Master Gardener Michele Govig wrote: > arid_gardener > I spend about 15 minutes every morning picking mushrooms out of my lawn. > Some of them are ghostly green on the underside and I have read that they > can be very poisonous. I only water 1x per week and try to get the mushrooms > before they open. I have young kids and dogs so I worry about putting down > a fungicide, but I also worry about them eating a mushroom. Does anybody > have a solution. Also, is it ok to put earthworms purchased at a fishing > store into my gardens? > > Michele Govig > Mgovig@home.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From DPridmore@webtv.net Mon Jul 10 03:49:55 2000 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: DPridmore@webtv.net DPridmore@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page live in michigan have drawf cherry tree sweet nebor. has a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . From azupsguy@earthlink.net Mon Jul 10 14:03:22 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:03:22 -0700 (MST) From: azupsguy@earthlink.net azupsguy@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? From tempebob@worldnet.att.net Mon Jul 10 15:09:04 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tempebob@worldnet.att.net tempebob@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? From jess@cvweb.com Mon Jul 10 14:44:20 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:44:20 -0700 From: Jessica Turvey jess@cvweb.com Subject: [AG] Herb Information Question #1: Besides Tip Top Nurseries and their kind, where else would you recommend that I purchase healthier herbs. Question #2: I have been looking for a broad leafed chive called "curly chive" to plant in my garden and have been unable to locate it. Question #3: Is this time of year okay to plant herbs. I am getting mixed messages in the literature. I should mention that my garden faces west but is partially shaded by a tree. Thanks much ! Jess T. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 15:46:19 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:46:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide - FLamers This listing of purveyors of flamers is by no means exhaustive being simply based on the garden implement catalogs I currently have in my possession! Lee Valley tools has a small weed torch, perhaps not for your size job, on page 33 of the 2000 main catalog [not the seasonal issues]. 800-871-8158 www.leevalley.com Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has the biggest selection, p. 37 of the 1999 catalog. 888-784-1722 www.groworganic.com I couldn't find one in the A.M. Leonard catalog, which doesn't have a good index, but call them at 800-543-8955 or check out www.amleo.com Linda Strader wrote: > Thank you for your response. I've heard of this, and it might work for this project. The only problem is training city maintenance personel not to melt the irrigation system. Do you know of a company that markets this? > P.S. Southern Arizona doesn't have ice and snow! > > >>> Linda Guy 07/06/00 02:39PM >>> > Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with > excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. > > The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly > effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. > > Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > lxs@deainc.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 15:52:29 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:52:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Newport Flowering Plum Edibility The Sunset Western Garden Book, p.442, says that the fruit of prunus cerasifera, also known as cherry plum or myrobalan, is a small red plum that is sweet but bland. It will self sow freely and some seedlings might begin to bear yellow fruit. Linda Guy Master Gardener J_chitwood@email.msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 15:54:34 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:54:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry Tree Pollination Your needs will be best served by contacting your own county's cooperative extension service whose phone number is listed in the government pages of your phone directory. You should have the specific varieties of the trees in question, so they can research if either are self-pollinators and what the risk of cross-pollination is. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener DPridmore@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > live in michigan have drawf > cherry tree sweet nebor. has > a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 16:04:09 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:04:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Caroline Jessamine Although this plant loks its best when watered regularly, this is not assured by hand watering. The plant's needs will probably be better served if you give it a long slow drink to 2-3 feet deep, every two weeks. If the plant were in full sun, which it prefers, it might need it as often as weekly. Perhaps it is receiving too much or erractic watering with your current practice. Just a note, that the Sunset Western Garden Book says that all parts of this plant are poisonous. Linda Guy Master Gardener smacica@intsvc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Last winter purchased a Carolina Jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens. > I planted it on the north side of a concrete block wall, running east/west. > It has been doing beautifully until 4 days ago when some of the leaves started > drying up and dying. Some tendrils seem uneffected or lightly effected so far, > but others are completely dead. I thought might need more water so I have been > hand watering since the problem appeared. > And suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 16:13:53 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Japanese Privet - Irrigation It sounds to me as if the plants have been overwatered and continue to be so. They can experience some sunburn in the hottest exposures, but this sounds different. This is also a plant that can be susceptible to Texas root rot which is discussed in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm A general rule of thumb is to water through the root ball 2 to 3 feet down. Since this plant does prefer regular watering, I suspect a weekly application in the summer time would do the trick. You are always welcome to bring a specimen of the impacted plant material to the cooperative extension office, or one of the satellites, which are listed on the page where you originally placed your question. The central office has a weekly diagnostic session with staff and volunteers. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener hckymom@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 16:24:35 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:24:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in the area that we typically serve? Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? > Thank you for your time.Deb > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rdschwartz@aol.com Mon Jul 10 16:17:03 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:17:03 -0700 (MST) From: rdschwartz@aol.com rdschwartz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Mimosa tree has been infested with flat head borers can the worms invfest other nearby trees - for insttance a young pepper tree. And, how do I get rid of the problem? From jfuerte@uswest.net Mon Jul 10 17:55:51 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) From: jfuerte@uswest.net jfuerte@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need to fill my planters outside. There are 3 of them imbedded in my soil. They are about2 square feet each. I tried to plant flowers that are low maintenance because i am a poor gardener. Can you give me an inexpensive, hardy, semi-self sustaining, pretty plant to put into them? Thank you so much for wanting to help me From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jul 10 20:05:26 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:05:26 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident >X-Sender: ffolinda@ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:19:41 -0500 >To: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Linda Ffolliott >Subject: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident > >can you respond to this? > >Linda Ffolliott > > >From: "gene" > >To: > >Subject: cat's claw vine > >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:29:00 -0700 > >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 > >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 > >X-Status: > >X-Keywords: > >X-UID: 39238 > > > >We are not sure if you can help us or if we are writing to the right person, > >BUT, since we are new to Arizona, we planted cat's claw (big mistake) by our > >pool 4 years ago.We planted it on the east wall and it grew and grew and > >grew. It has damaged our cool deck of our pool. We took it out and tried > >to remove all roots. Is there anything we can use to kill the remaining > >roots, if we didn't get them all. We are afraid it will come back. > >It was an all day job to remove the vine and dig out the 4 roots. > > > >If you can help us, we would appreciate it. > > > >Thanks so much, Gene & Rosalee Cramer, Phoenix, AZ. > > gigpop@swlink.net > > > > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From drufener@osbornnet.org Mon Jul 10 20:35:31 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: drufener@osbornnet.org drufener@osbornnet.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jul 10 22:06:31 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:06:31 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Overgrown Chilean Mesquite The more water you give a Mesquite tree the faster they will grow. The Mesquite can survive on very little water. Your irrigation interval should be between 2 and 3 weeks of deep water. If you haven't been deep watering the first bad wind we have may leave that tree down. Yes you probably need to thin and shape the tree so that it has less wind resistance, However do not prune off more than 1/3 in one year and no more than 15% at one time. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on pruning at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Jul 11 02:58:07 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and training by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries Sue Bass Master Gardener azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Jul 11 03:06:48 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:06:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it. Sue Bass Master Gardenenr Sue Bass wrote: > arid_gardener > Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The > recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" > and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 > through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" > and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which > includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and > training by going to > http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it.

Sue Bass
Master Gardenenr

Sue Bass wrote:

arid_gardener
Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix.  The
recommended cultivars are from Texas.  They are "Rosborough"
and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994
through 1998.  Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos"
and "Brison".  You can view a copy of this study on-line, which
includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and
training by going to
http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote:

> arid_gardener
> is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

--------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jul 11 03:16:51 2000 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Japanese Pine dying The Japanese Pine is not well adapted to the low desert and all its summer heat. My advice is to be sure to deep water the pine weekly during the summer. A 4 inch mulch layer under the tree would also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Jul 11 15:03:55 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros In reviewing our publication 8309 about Cactus, Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo [which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals ] it suggests that cactus are quicker to reestablish themselves in the low deserts if transplanted from March through October. The warmer temps favor growth and the plant's increased ability to reestablish. Since you are probably cooler in Tucson, it seems that now is a very good time to do this job. The key to transplant success is to maintain the original directional orientation. This is so very important because the plant will have become toughened and resistant to sunburn on its south and southwest sides. If you were to expose the tender north or eastern sides to intense sun, you risk sunburn which can lead to rot. So use a piece of chalk and mark the orientation. The shallow roots should be cut with a sharp shovel blade in a complete circle about a foot away from the plant's base. Then dig under and carefully pry and lift the plant out of the ground. Allow loose soil to fall away from the roots. Keep lateral root stubs about 5 to 10 inches. Dust all the cuts with powdered sulphur to minimize infection and speed up the callous development process. Now place the transplants in a shaded open area for 1 to 2 weeks to develop these callouses. Replant the cactus in dry soil and do not irrigate until new growth appears at the apex or tips of plant. Larger saguaros or top-heavy cacti should be set a few inches deeper into the ground than they originally grew. Mound aditional soil around the base to support them until rerooting has occurred. Did you remember to repeat the plant's original orientation? Avoid heavier tighter soils, or mix in crushed granite, 1/3 to 1/2 of the soil volume. While organic soil additives can be used, they are unnecessary. Avoid locations where water is likely to collect. Your cactus won't like wet feet. Don't crowd the plantings; allow space for air to circulate freely. Provide appropriate shading, particularly for any species that normally grow under native bushes or trees. Fertilizer is not usually necessary. Limited cautious application early in growing season can stimulate growth. But do not do so in the fall, when you could create new growth that would be more susceptible to winter freeze injury. A last note, Judy Mielke suggests in her book Native Plants for SW Landscapes that the success rate of transplantation declines with the maturity of the specimen. All this is 'book learning' since I do not have saguaros. You can always call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225 for some truly expert advice. Like how to wrap your plants to avoid injury to you and them! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Silvia McDonald wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros > ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable > (for me) locations. > > What is the best way, if any, to move these? > What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? > Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Silvia McDonald > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Jul 11 15:05:38 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:05:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Watering in Turf Fertilizer You should always follow the instructions for application that are included on all bags of fertilizer for best results! Often it is not the amount of time you water, but how much water you apply as measured by the soaking of the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener cincy@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. > when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Jul 11 15:31:27 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:31:27 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] First Graders and Cactus I don't mean to frustrate your plans, but having gardened some bit in my children's elementary school I would not recommend using cactus for first graders due to the obvious threat of thorny incursions! Nearly all cacti have spines, so you might try some succulents [cacti are a subset of succulent] which do not, like the aloe family, that would not pose a risk. Using paper or other sleeves to hold the specimens is simply too complicated for little fingers. And it's no fun if only the teacher gets to dirty his/her hands! Permit me to show you some interesting material both on our website and otherwise. First, check out the index listing for youth gardening on the home page http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ There are a lot of references for you there. We also have a list server dedicated to youth gardening that you could subscribe to. At the bottom of this section, check out events: we have an annual school gardening conference, the last weekend of February that you would die for! It's simply jampacked with ideas and people who serve the youngsters in our horticultural community. Lastly, take a look at our book specifically on this topic, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/sch-bk.htm I put every reference and curriculum guide I could find at that time into Appendix B. Check it out! A personal favorite set of elementary school curriculum guides, that is focused on native material, used to come out of the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Call them to see if they would still provide a set; I've always given a modest donation to cover postage when I requested material. 520-326-9686 What I don't know to advise is a list of thornless succulents. Trot on over to the Desert Botanical Gardens, and I'm sure they'll be able to give some good guidance. 480-941-1225. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener drufener@osbornnet.org wrote: > arid_gardener > I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jul 11 16:09:50 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:09:50 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flame Throwers Isn't there a "Safer" solution? (pun intended). -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Jul 11 16:23:22 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:23:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flatheaded Borers in Mimosa The publication "Boring Insects Attacking Mesquite Trees" at url "http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/boring_insects.html describes the problem and corrective action for flatheaded borers in mesquite trees. It would probably apply to mimosa as well. -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Tue Jul 11 12:50:47 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:50:47 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Chilean Mesquite Overgrown We ran into this same problem with our tree so we started pruning it and now we prune it regularly. We removed branches that grew downward and branches that began to rub against other branches. We also removed branches that grew inward - i.e., branches that didn't grow out and up but just sort of took off in their own direction. We did this gradually so that we didn't cut off too much at one time. This thinned out the tree and gave the wind less resistance. It also gave the tree a more 'airy' look which is nice. Now I just keep an eye on it and when branches start heading off in the wrong direction I clip them right away. I deep water the tree every three weeks in the summer and it seems to like that schedule. I hope this help. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of tempebob@worldnet.att.net Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 8:09 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From ariesterer@securityhardware.net Tue Jul 11 19:21:22 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:21:22 -0700 (MST) From: ariesterer@securityhardware.net ariesterer@securityhardware.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We purchased a Joshua Tree. How much water does it require? Does it need to be watered on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. From glmogie@bigplanet.com Tue Jul 11 22:51:23 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0700 (MST) From: glmogie@bigplanet.com glmogie@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do they paint the trees in the medians and what kind of paint do they use. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Jul 12 07:56:22 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:56:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Bugs on watermelon plants ----- Original Message ----- From: > The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? > Probably either melon aphids or whitefly larva. If you have not seen adult whiteflies around the plants, it's more likely to be aphids although it's a bit warm for them. Control is similar for both. The melon aphid will be on the underside if the leaves and it ranges in color from yellow to black. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm "Wash aphids off with a strong blast of water, spray aphids with mild soapy water (1 tsp to 1 tbsp of non-concentrated dish detergent per gallon of water - not citrus based soap). Before spraying the entire plant, always spray a few leaves and check the next day for leaf burn." White flies infest all cucurbits but affect water melons to a somewhat lesser degree than cantaloupes. See http://ag.arizona.edu/aes/yac/veginfo/whitefly.htm for a detailed descrption to help identify it in its various stages. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm "A homemade spray for whiteflies and scales: mix one cup vegetable oil plus one tablespoon dish detergent (regular, not concentrated, and not citrus based) in a pint jar and shake. Add one to two teaspoons of this mixture to one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray the underside of leaves to dripping. Always spray a few leaves and check 24 hours latter for leaf burn before spraying entire plant". Good Luck, Olin From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Jul 12 15:10:52 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:10:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed I am always amazed at the geographic range of our querents. We've even had participation from Australia and South Africa! However, I'm going to tell you to make haste to the government listings of your phone directory to locate your own county's cooperative extension office. There should be an ag agent and/or Master Gardener volunteers like us who deal with questions like yours, but who can address your specific locale.We have less than 11" rain per year, intense summer sun and heat, generally heavy clay soil, hard/alkaline water.....hardly the conditions that you face. The plant varieties that can thrive here are what we consult on the best. Good luck with your fruit trees! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ mikendeb wrote: > Hello Linda, We llive in Fond du Lac Wisconsin. I sure hope that you can > help us. > If you would like more information please feel free to ask. Deb > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Guy" > To: > Cc: "Arid gardener server" > Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 9:24 AM > Subject: Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed > > > According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour > cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix > metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of > cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and > they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties > > > > I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning > is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, > could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in > the area that we typically serve? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > Maricopa County > > > > mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine > when we had planted them. > > > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is > something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some > brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it > would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that > anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we > also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as > bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith > tree. > > > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please > Help???????????? > > > Thank you for your time.Deb > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From thoover@fiskars.com Wed Jul 12 15:45:16 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:45:16 -0700 (MST) From: thoover@fiskars.com thoover@fiskars.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am told that you can grow blueberries in the valley. Are they difficult to grow here and what varieties are recommended for this area? From mmatthes@aol.com Wed Jul 12 02:21:07 2000 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:21:07 -0700 (MST) From: mmatthes@aol.com mmatthes@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 7-8 ft. 2-trunk pygmy date palm that was planted in my front yard (southern exposure in Surprise) last year. One of the trunks' fronds have died. I think it may be due to excessive winds from this spring. The other trunk's fronds appear healthy. Will the 2nd trunk's fronds grow back? What do I need to do? If it won't grow back, what do I do with the unhealthy trunk? Obviously, removing one trunk would unbalance the tree and look very odd. Could this be bud rot? Do I need to replace the entire tree? THANKS for any help! From lewislampton@uswest.net Wed Jul 12 15:00:00 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) From: lewislampton@uswest.net lewislampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I asked a question on my acacia seligna the other day, I have not heard back or lack the knowledge on how to access that information. Our tree is plantted on the north side of the yard it gets plenty of sun, in fact all day. The leaves are turning yellow on the ends and falling off, it did this very same thing last year, and this year it seemed to be coming back and looking nice and then hot weather hit, and it started to die again. We have upped the water frequency to see if it maybe not getting enoufgh water but it is a desert or so we thought. Help us please we live on the east side. Ellsworth and 95 st.,(480)357-7001. From Loganrca@aol.com Wed Jul 12 18:24:04 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:24:04 EDT From: Loganrca@aol.com Loganrca@aol.com Subject: [AG] citrus questions I have three citrus trees in my yard. In the past year I have had to replace two of the trees. It looks like I will need to replace a third this fall. My first question is, I have an orange tree that bloomed very well this spring. It started new growth and new leaves. All the fruit fell off and the leaves stopped growing. The leaves stayed on the tree but only developed to about 1/8 the size they should be. The tree is showing signs of sun burn. Should I be making plans of removing this tree, or is there hope that the tree can be saved? If so what can I do to save it? My second question deals with the fact that the remaining two trees have yellow sections in them. I have fertilized the trees with good fertilizer recommended by the nursery and have give treatments of iron as recommended. This does not seem to have changed the situation at all. Also I am following the recommended watering guidelines. Is there anything else I can do too help these trees? Would there be areas that just cannot support citrus trees? I hope you can shed some light on my problems with citrus trees. Thank you. Harry Logan loganrca@aol.com From cmarkley794@earthlink.net Wed Jul 12 20:04:33 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: cmarkley794@earthlink.net cmarkley794@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was wondering if I could cut back some chrysanthmums and geraniums? They have been burned by the sun. If I can't do it now when can I? Thank You From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jul 12 20:44:47 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:47 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Sunburn on smooth bark trees Most smooth bark trees growing in the low desert need protection from the hot sun particularly the PM sun. One way to provide that protection is to paint the trunks white or a light color of latex paint. Burlap is another product used. If you notice the citrus orchards you will see that the lower branches are left on the trees to provide shade for the trunks. Good luck. Rod From alice.terry@juno.com Wed Jul 12 21:09:01 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:09:01 -0700 (MST) From: alice.terry@juno.com alice.terry@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Near the bouganvilla bush, where the blossoms drop off, I have little plants coming up. They are about 2 inches high, two to 6 leaves each, and the leaves look like the bouganvilla. However, the leaf stems are a reddish color. Could these be new bouganvilla bushes? From hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Wed Jul 12 21:00:29 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I saw on a recent show on TV about saving rainwater from your roof into a water container to be used later to water your plants to save water for your desert landscaping.The downspouts from your roof guuters were piped directly into this container.Do you know where to buy these containers to save the Rain water?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,Jim Sgambati From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jul 12 21:37:14 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:37:14 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Acacia saligna dying Lewis, We discussed on the phone about your problem with Acacia saligna trees, and I recommended that you apply more water. There is lots of information on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ledcor@email.msn.com Wed Jul 12 22:23:53 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:23:53 -0700 (MST) From: ledcor@email.msn.com ledcor@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I plant caladium bulbs (tubers) in my garden in Phoenix? What is the best time to plant and will I need to pull them in winter? When do I pull them and how do I store? The garden bed I've chosen is full shade. I also understand I mix a soil of peat moss, sand and mulch prior to planting. Any other suggestions or tips? Thanks, Debby From theingurgios@aol.com Wed Jul 12 23:02:39 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:02:39 -0700 (MST) From: theingurgios@aol.com theingurgios@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a squirrel that insists on burrowing in our landscaping. He is making huge tunnels and holes. Daily my husband repairs the havoc only to return the following day to do more damage. Is there a safe, clean way to rid ourselves of this pain in the dirt? Or do we have to live with it? From DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Wed Jul 12 23:43:01 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:43:01 -0700 (MST) From: DONNORRICH@AOL.COM DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have citrus...grapefruit and lemon set and kept fruit. Our organges set and dropped all fruit. We have yellow spots on leaves some curled leaves. What could cause the organges to loose their fruit? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 13 03:31:38 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:31:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Rainwater Harvesting Containers Seems any type of containers should work. You could use water storage tanks or stock watering tanks available locally. There are some fancy 55 gal drums on the web at http://www.rio.com/~plastmo/gardnh2o.html http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1169.pdf http://www.gardenweb.com/forums/load/water/msg070954047430.html http://www.greenculture.com/pr/ws.html Gardeners Supply Company has it in their catalog and also on the web at. http://www.gardeners.com/theme_pages/save_on_watering_essentials.asp I'm sure every small bit would help but I've worked the numbers several times and found it not to be a worthwhile expenditure for me. Not enough rainfall. Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > I saw on a recent show on TV about saving rainwater from your roof into a water container to be used later to water your plants to save water for your desert landscaping.The downspouts from your roof guuters were piped directly into this container.Do you know where to buy these containers to save the Rain water?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,Jim Sgambati From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Jul 13 04:09:16 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 21:09:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Blueberries in the Low Desert? Blueberries are usually not considered to be adapted to the low desert. They need more chill hours (time below 40 deg F) during the dormant period than we normally experience. Some winters we receive up to 300 hrs but usually it's quite a bit less. They also do not do well in alkaline soil. And they would probably need to be shaded. There are a few varieties with low chill requirements (200 hours or less - see: http://www.mastergardeners.org/recommend/bluevar.html ) that may be worth trying. In the garden section of today's AZ Republic newspaper, there was an article about a local gardener who grows all types of "non-adapted" fruit, including blueberries along with a photograph. Suggest trying to contact him for advice (White pages). Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am told that you can grow blueberries in the valley. Are they difficult to grow here and what varieties are recommended for this area? From fscapellit@mindspring.com Thu Jul 13 01:53:48 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:53:48 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What procedure do I follow for planting cuttings from my plants to start new plants. What soil or medium do I set the in and do I take of any leaves for new roots. Set me clear. Thank you From azmary@hotmail.com Thu Jul 13 01:43:32 2000 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 18:43:32 -0700 (MST) From: azmary@hotmail.com azmary@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted roses for the first time in AZ this year.They are watered automatically and I have been feeding them regularly(1st w/Miracle Grow then with Peter's} They are growing well but either are not blooming at all or have very very small blooms. Please help. From danopato@mindspring.com Thu Jul 13 14:58:31 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:58:31 -0700 (MST) From: danopato@mindspring.com danopato@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to grow tomatoes at this time of the year in this area and if so, what is the best way to go about it...Dano in Mesa. From muriel.miller@stpaul.com Thu Jul 13 14:00:53 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 07:00:53 -0700 (MST) From: muriel.miller@stpaul.com muriel.miller@stpaul.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just planted an Ocotillo. It is about 9' tall. The nursery I purchased it from said it would take about 3-4 months to root. Does it need to be staked? Any tips for keeping it healthy? From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Jul 13 16:58:18 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 09:58:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Starting plants from cuttings The following page from the Master Gardener Manual will give you the information you need to start plants from cuttings. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Sue Bass Master Gardener fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What procedure do I follow for planting cuttings from my plants to start new plants. > > What soil or medium do I set the in and do I take of any leaves for new roots. > > Set me clear. > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Jul 13 17:09:41 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:09:41 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Tomatoes You can set out tomatoe transplants in July, as well as peppers according to the July Timely Tips at the Home Horticulture web page. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm This is a great spot to find out what to plant each month of the year. You can find information on growing tomatoes at our on-line Master Gardener Manual. Go to the following page for Tomatoes: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/tomatoes.html A shade screen is generally preferable during the hot summer months. Sue Bass Master Gardener danopato@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to grow tomatoes at this time of the year in this area and if so, what is the best way to go about it...Dano in Mesa. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From tsozuna@goodnet.com Thu Jul 13 17:50:49 2000 Date: Thu, 13 Jul 2000 10:50:49 -0700 (MST) From: tsozuna@goodnet.com tsozuna@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I observed a large y