Sue Bass
Master Gardenenr
Sue Bass wrote:
arid_gardener--------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Japanese Pine dying The Japanese Pine is not well adapted to the low desert and all its summer heat. My advice is to be sure to deep water the pine weekly during the summer. A 4 inch mulch layer under the tree would also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros In reviewing our publication 8309 about Cactus, Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo [which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals ] it suggests that cactus are quicker to reestablish themselves in the low deserts if transplanted from March through October. The warmer temps favor growth and the plant's increased ability to reestablish. Since you are probably cooler in Tucson, it seems that now is a very good time to do this job. The key to transplant success is to maintain the original directional orientation. This is so very important because the plant will have become toughened and resistant to sunburn on its south and southwest sides. If you were to expose the tender north or eastern sides to intense sun, you risk sunburn which can lead to rot. So use a piece of chalk and mark the orientation. The shallow roots should be cut with a sharp shovel blade in a complete circle about a foot away from the plant's base. Then dig under and carefully pry and lift the plant out of the ground. Allow loose soil to fall away from the roots. Keep lateral root stubs about 5 to 10 inches. Dust all the cuts with powdered sulphur to minimize infection and speed up the callous development process. Now place the transplants in a shaded open area for 1 to 2 weeks to develop these callouses. Replant the cactus in dry soil and do not irrigate until new growth appears at the apex or tips of plant. Larger saguaros or top-heavy cacti should be set a few inches deeper into the ground than they originally grew. Mound aditional soil around the base to support them until rerooting has occurred. Did you remember to repeat the plant's original orientation? Avoid heavier tighter soils, or mix in crushed granite, 1/3 to 1/2 of the soil volume. While organic soil additives can be used, they are unnecessary. Avoid locations where water is likely to collect. Your cactus won't like wet feet. Don't crowd the plantings; allow space for air to circulate freely. Provide appropriate shading, particularly for any species that normally grow under native bushes or trees. Fertilizer is not usually necessary. Limited cautious application early in growing season can stimulate growth. But do not do so in the fall, when you could create new growth that would be more susceptible to winter freeze injury. A last note, Judy Mielke suggests in her book Native Plants for SW Landscapes that the success rate of transplantation declines with the maturity of the specimen. All this is 'book learning' since I do not have saguaros. You can always call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225 for some truly expert advice. Like how to wrap your plants to avoid injury to you and them! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Silvia McDonald wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros > ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable > (for me) locations. > > What is the best way, if any, to move these? > What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? > Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Silvia McDonald > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives -
Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The
recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough"
and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994
through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos"
and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which
includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and
training by going to
http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=BlackberriesSue Bass
Master Gardenerazupsguy@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ?
>
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