From 99fathead@home.com Fri, 30 Jun 2000 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) From: 99fathead@home.com 99fathead@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large branch from a weeping willow tree. I was told that if I dig a hole double the size of the branch diameter hence "stick it in the ground, it will grow. Is this true? Please advise. Thank you, Jen. From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:38:21 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:38:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Insects on Hibiscus The American Hibiscus Society has a very nice web page. You can visit it at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ When you get to their home page, if you look to your left, about three categories down you will a reference to Fertilizer, Insecticide and Pruning. You will find information on the recommended controls for insect pests. I really can't say what type of insect is on your hibiscus. If you want to know, you can try to capture a few and place them in a container, take them to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. There is a Friday morning diagnostics group that meets each week. Be sure to include your name, phone number and pertinent information about the problem. They will then contact you. You can also try visiting a satelite office near you. A list of our offices is found on the "Ask a Gardening Question" page of our website. To view the list, go to http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener stevek@heraeusmtd.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Small black bugs keep getting on a Hibiscus bush. What are they and what can control them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:49:30 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 17:49:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Liquid Sulfur for Vineyard Frank: While I can not help you in your search for the supplier of liquid sulfur, I did locate a website that may be of help to you if you do not hear from another gardener on this listserve. You may be able to get assistance from http://www.grapetalk.com/. Sue Bass Master Gardener fdpmm@goodnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > From: F.Don Manthe > To: > Subject: sulfur spray > Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:00 PM > > I need to know where I can obtain a liquid suspension of sulfur for spray > material on grapes . In the past I have used Uniflow Sulfur made by > Leffingwell with six pounds of sulfur per gallon. At this time I am unable > to find this product in the Phoenix Area but would like to find out who > sells this or similar material that I can use on in vineyard. > > Any information about this product would be appreciated > > THANK YOU !! > Frank D Manthe > Chateau Manthe fdpmm@goodnet.com > 317 E Phoenix St > Payson AZ 85541 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 18:16:04 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 18:16:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Landscaping assistance While we do not provide a free landscaping service, we can provide you with lots of useful information in making your landscape decisions. If you haven't visited our website, I would suggest that you take a little tour. You can begin at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Our "Timely Tips" section provides homeowners with information organized month-by-month, including monthly "To-Do's", "Don'ts" and frequently asked questions. Be sure to visit our Events page. There are many classes coming up that are geared to gardeners who are new to the valley or new to gardening. By visiting our Publications section, or by going straight there via: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm You will find information that addresses nearly every question including turf, tree options, ornamentals. Several publications are available to view on line. The others can be ordered and the information on how to do that is included at this site. Some library branches also have a binder with many of these publications. Another excellent place to start is by scrolling down on that home page to "Recommended Reading". From there you can choose many categories, including one called Landscape Design, Installation and Management. You will find a great list of books that are excellent on this topic. The section entitled "Links" provides other valuable resources. What state did you move from? Sue Bass Master Gardener monthly ambervann2@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently relocated to Arizona and purchased a new home in Anthem. In my previous city, the extension office provided landscaping services free of charge for home owners. Do you know if the city of Phoenix offers any services such as this? Any kind of service where someone will come out and help you determine which plants/trees/sod to plant and then assist in the landscaping? Thank you for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From NatalieWS@aol.com Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:46:29 EDT Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 00:46:29 EDT From: NatalieWS@aol.com NatalieWS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? Hi, I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:57:17 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 21:57:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Information on planting/growing grapes in Phx? We have a publication available - publication no. MC59 - Backyard Grapes available. You can find information on ordering this publication at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. Some of the library branches also have a binder containing the publications so its worth a check there, if the library branch near you has it you can make a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener NatalieWS@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > > Hi, > I would like to find information on planting and growing grapes in Phx. > Do you have a info page on this subject? Thank you Natalie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:24 -0700 Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 22:01:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Growing Sugar Cane and Loquats I'd like to refer you to the California Rare Fruit Growers (AZ Chapter) for an answer here. I know that they can give you information on the loquats. They may even have info on the sugar cane. The following page contains information on how to contact them with our question: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm Good Luck! Sue Bass susras@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Have sugar cane and it is growing well. Developing large canes and is having a hard time staying upright. When do I harvest? Forgot to ask that when I got it. > > Also, do loquats do well here, and under what conditions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pattiannn@mindspring.com Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:20:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 1 Jul 2000 20:20:16 -0700 (MST) From: pattiannn@mindspring.com pattiannn@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a silk oak in my backyard that oozes what looks like sap during the spring. The silk oak I have in the front yard does not do this. Other than the sap, the silk oak in the back seems healthy and has been growing. Is this something I should be worried about? From number1@netcom.ca Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:23:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 08:23:23 -0700 (MST) From: number1@netcom.ca number1@netcom.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page need to know the care for a calamandin "orange tree" being kept in the house From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:02:34 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:02:34 -0700 From: Pauline Marx PlantPerson@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page,calamandin orange Calamandin orange may produce white fragrant flowers and small bitter oranges nearly all year round . Cultivation is straight forward. The basic requirements are good drainage, freedom from drafts, moderate watering all year round, fertilization all year round but less in winter, , cool but not cold conditions in winter. Summer should be spent out of doors. Two tips- pollinate the flowers by dabbing with cotton balls and apply a fertilizer with magnesium if the leaves yellow. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona From ClaireASP@aol.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:29:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:29:50 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi there.I have two questions. First, I know that you are not suppose to water Bouganvilla very often; but how often should you actually do it? Please advise for both summer and winter.Secondly, I have several Jacaranda trees. They are sprouting new branches down the lower part of the tree trunk. Should I cut those off? Thanks for your time and help. I read your questions and answers everyday, and have learned alot from your web site. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:36:39 EDT Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 21:36:39 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Water sprouts on a Jacaranda Claire, as soon as you see water sprouts growing from the trunk of your Jacaranda tree you should cut them off. If your Bougainvillea is established ( in the ground for one year ), then summer watering should be every 3 to 4 weeks. For winter watering at least double the frequency of summer watering. Good luck. Rod From mhills_sro@msn.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:53:14 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 23:53:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this information will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but would rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1@email.msn.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >arid_gardener >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer but will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, what will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall to have a winter lawn. >Thanks for your response. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - > > From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:44:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:44:15 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. From bjm@cybertrails.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:45:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 16:45:06 -0700 (MST) From: bjm@cybertrails.com bjm@cybertrails.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. Sincerely, Bernice From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:13:45 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:13:45 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Wisteria - Hardenbergia I would suggest planting the Australian wisteria, called hardenbergia, which is available in most nurseries and home centers in the spring (and maybe fall). It is an evergreen so it doesn't make a mess and has lovely violet blue flowers in the spring. It's really beautiful when it flowers. I started mine from a 1 gallon pot 1-1/2 years ago and it now covers a whole corner and much of the walls of my northwest wall. I have it on my drip system with many of the shrubs and it just keep growing and growing. I'm really amazed how this plant does so well in the heat - stays green year-round and then has those periodic wonderful flowers. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Dodty5@aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 3:56 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Wisteria arid_gardener Does anyone know if we can grow Wisteria in the Phoenix area? If so where can one buy the appropriate type? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From umiller@azdps.com Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:16:19 -0700 Date: Sun, 2 Jul 2000 19:16:19 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers - Book There's a good book by Eric A Johnson in his Western Garden series. It's called "How to Grow the Wildflowers - When and How to Plant Over 180 Native and Adapted Varieties". You can get it from Amazon.com Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 8:35 PM To: capt61@mail.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers arid_gardener You can check out our list of publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers My favorite wildflower catalog, which I look at as much as a reference work, is Wildseed Farms www.wildseedfarms.com Locally, we used to have in Tempe a company called Wild Seed [PN 276-3536] but I haven't been in contact with them for a while. Native Seed Search in Tucson, has a few pages on wildflowers in its catalog www.azstarnet.com/~nss/index.html In general, we plant wildflower seeds in the fall/early winter in the low desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener capt61@mail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello. Thank you for this service.Is there anyone or site to ask about the propigation of Wild flowers? capt61@mail.com cares :] > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From b737jet@aol.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:58:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 13:58:16 -0700 (MST) From: b737jet@aol.com b737jet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello: Have an 6 yr old Austrailian Willow that is sick. The tree has 4 main limbs coming from its main trunk. One of these limbs seems to be dying. Of the branches coming from this limb, each are dying one at a time. Its leaves turn brown and fall off. This started late summer last year. The tree is in a raised bed on the NE corner of the yard along side another Austrailin Willow. It does get full sun all day. It had a bark mulch around it which has been removed. It is on a drip system with 3 emitters at 2 gal/hr each and runs for 2 hrs twice a week. Upon removing the bark mulch from around the tree, the soil around it did not seem to be moist as if I was over watering. The limb's bark seems to be pulling away, I can easily remove it to expose more of the limb. The limb also appears to have deep cracks in it. The limb & leaves appear to be very dry. The tree has not recieved any feedings last summer or this year. Thanks in advance for any help you could give us in this matter. You can contact us at b737jet@aol.com or at these telephone numbers: home: 480-759-0261 after 3pm work:602-221-7872 - wife Jackie 7am-4pm Larry Larsen From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:33:37 EDT Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 20:33:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Australian Willow dying Larry, The first thing that you need to correct is the irrigation. You need to give the tree more water on a less frequent basis,ie replace the 2 gallon drippers with adjustable ones located at the dripline and run your system for 6 hours every two weeks in the summer. By applying more water you encourage the roots to go deeper, and flush the salt out of the root zone. I would also recommend replacing the mulch around the tree, it will help to conserve moisture, keep the roots cooler and provide a constsnt source of humas. The lack of adequate moisture has caused the tree to become stressed, and when the tree is stressed it becomes susceptable to all kind of insects and diseases. The Master Gardener Manual which is on line has an excellent chapter on irrigation which you can find at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Gojic@home.net Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:03:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 17:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: Gojic@home.net Gojic@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 03 Jul 2000 18:07:18 -0700 Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2000 18:07:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale You can view an on-line information sheet on pearl scale at the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Unfortunately, there is no effective way to eliminate these pests from lawns at this time. You can view further information on Pearl Scale )which may have some suggestions you can try) in our archives. One particular past note I located is at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0159.html To look up a subject in our archives, go to: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in the subject you are looking for. Past correspondence on this subject will be listed there. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Gojic@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a problem with pearlscale in my lawn. I read an article a few years back about this treatment, but I unfortunately, did not keep it. What is the proper treatment for this problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:32:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2000 18:32:14 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page - lawns Dear Earle - now that I know you are here in the Valley of the Sun, lawn ideas and suggestions are fairly easy. Under full sun conditions, some sort of bermudagrass is the turf of choice here in the Desert Southwest. Generally, bermudas need a minimum of about 15 inches of annual moisture to survive and grow fairly well - more water means more growth and a lot thicker, healthier growth - turf experts and researchers recommend upwards of 40 inches per year for the healthiest bermuda turf.. Since we only get about 7 inches of annual moisture, and since it is not evenly spread out over the year, your bermuda lawn will most likely die or drastically thin out during your summer of no watering. A deep watering regime in the spring will mean your bermuda will be a lot healthier going into the summer - maybe even give it a couple of very deep water applications in March and April to give a good moisture bse several feet down where the deep-rooted bermuda can still retrieve it during the summer. This could mean more live bermuda the following fall, when you return to Mesa. As you only want grass during the winter when you are here, this should not effect you very much. Winter ryegrass overseeding is generally recommended after October 15th as daytime temperatures drop into the low 90's and lower. Usually this overseeding is applied into a dormant bermudagrass base, so that the dormant bermuda provides a mat or strong base for the ryegrass to root into and grow on top of. With your bermuda base dead or very thin from no summer watering, you will be planting your ryegrass into bare soil. This works fairly well, but with no dormant bermuda base, the ryegrass may wear out under high traffic during the winter growing season. Rake or till the soil surface to create a good seed bed and plant the ryegrass seed about 1/2 inch deep - your local garden center will have detailed seeding and care instructions in time for your fall seed planting. You should be fine though. BE VERY SURE that the ryegrass seed you buy for planting this winter says "Perennial Ryegrass seed" somewhere on the label - lots and lots of different brands and varieties and mixtures, but be sure it says perennial as this provides a far superior winter turf surface. DO NOT plant anything that says "Annual Ryegrass" as this is a light green, fast tall growing and very wet mowing, messy grass for winter. Perennial ryegrass seed is a little more expensive than annual ryegrass seed, but the added cost is very worth it - much much better winter turf, more wear and tear tolerant, much darker green, shorter growing so less mowing and it mows "dry" without all the slimey green wet clippings that can stain clothes, shoes, walkways, etc. Perennial ryegrass as a winter turf does not need to be mowed nearly as often as annual ryegrass does. Plant about 8-10 pounds of perennial ryegrass seed per 1,000 square feet sometime between October 15 and September 15 - earlier plantings suffer from the late summer heat, while later plantings have a harder time establishing due to the cooling soil temperatures. DO NOT plant any more than the recommended 10 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet - a too heavy seeding rate will cause disease problems and weak, overcrowded ryegrass plants that you will not be happy with. The ryegrass will start to fade out in sunny areas the following spring as temperatures get over mid-90's. Ryegrass may even be gone by the time you depart for your summer home. Some plants may stick around in shaded areas until they run out of water while you are gone for the summer - ryegrass is not at all tolerant of drought. You would need to replant the ryegrass each winter - perennial ryegrass is a year round grass in cooler climate areas (probably wherever you are from and returning to as a summer home) - but in our hot summer, the ryegrass only lives for one season. Hope this has helped. With our temperature extremes from below freezing in winter to 120 degrees plus in summer, we are a bit limited on our grass choices here. BUT, a combination of a bermuda for summer with a ryegrass for summer works out extremely well. Under more normal circumstances, the summer bermuda is a permanent turfgrass - returning and regrowing each year. Good Luck, mike hills - Maricopa County Master Gardener Research Agronomist, Seed Research - Arizona *********************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: earleburd1 To: Mike Hills Date: Monday, July 03, 2000 12:45 PM Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Thanks for your reply Mike. You are correct; the home is in Mesa > > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Mike Hills" >To: ; >Cc: "Linda A. Guy" >Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 11:53 PM >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> Please advise where this "summer lawn home" is located, as this >information >> will make a large difference in the answer. I could assume that you are >> here in the Valley of the Sun (Phoenix, Arizona) like I am ------ but >would >> rather know for sure since our web question site gets questions from all >> over the country.. Looking forward to your reply. Mike Hills - >> Maricopa County Master Gardener >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: earleburd1@email.msn.com >> To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> Date: Monday, June 12, 2000 10:00 AM >> Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >> >> >> >arid_gardener >> >We bought a home with a summer lawn. We will not be here in the summer >but >> will be here in the winter. If we do not water the lawn in the summer, >what >> will happen to it. Will it die out completely. Can we overseed each fall >> to have a winter lawn. >> >Thanks for your response. >> > >> > >> > >> >_______________________________________________ >> >Arid_gardener mailing list >> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >> >Archives - >> > >> > >> > > > From J_chitwood@email.msn.com Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:20:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:20:18 -0700 (MST) From: J_chitwood@email.msn.com J_chitwood@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:11:37 EDT Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 15:11:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Silk Oak oozing sap Patti, When a tree grown in the low desert oozes sap, it is an indication that the tree is under stress, and many times that stress is caused by improper irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From PatFlynn@prodigy.net Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:07:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 20:07:24 -0700 (MST) From: PatFlynn@prodigy.net PatFlynn@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. Thanks, Pat From AzTeacher8@aol.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) From: AzTeacher8@aol.com AzTeacher8@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From candscamp@aol.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 09:47:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 09:47:27 -0700 (MST) From: candscamp@aol.com candscamp@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks From devans@dot.state.az.us Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:05:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 10:05:53 -0700 (MST) From: devans@dot.state.az.us devans@dot.state.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have Juniperus scopulorum in a landscape in Holbrook with tops dying and trees turning brownish. They're recieving adequate water twice weekly as indicated by other healthy trees within close proximity. pH of soil is >8, boron content is between 0.4 and 2.0ppm, and Na content is between 5 and 8.6ppm. We were wondering if you could help. From millero@azcentral.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:30:42 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 11:30:42 -0700 From: Olin millero@azcentral.com Subject: [AG] Re: Saving Melon Seeds As you probably know, if the parent melons are hybrids, their seeds may not produce melons like the parents. Also, cantaloupes and melons crosspollinate and different ypes should be isolated from each other if you want to save. seed. To clean, rub the seeds between the hands to loosen the pulp,. the rinse with water several times in a pan pouring off the debris and floater seeds each time. When the seeds are appear clean, apply cold water under pressure to remove any residual sugar, dry in a plate or saucer. then store in a cool place like the refrigerator. It sometimes helps to ferment the seeds in water for a few days but it is usually not necessary. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I process seeds from melons so that they can be planted next year? Right now I have a few cantaloupe coming in and I'd like to save the seeds so that they might be suitable for planting next year. > Thanks, > Pat Sent by azcentral.com mail! From saz621@primenet.com Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:57:01 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 11:57:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re:Shade structure We built ours by taking conduit and the approprite fittings to make it an arch over the bed. Large spikes were set in the ground and the pipe was simply inserted into it and attached the same way on the other side. The latest Maricopa County MG Communicator (I think) had a splendid description with much more detail on how to accompish this. I have also seen excellent results by taking PVC pipe and attaching it to the sides of a wooden raised bed with pipe wrap on each side to make an arch. I have also built frame that more resembled a teepee by lashing bamboo poles together across the bed then running one down the center, like a purlin. Good luck, Mary From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:02:26 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:02:26 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: [When to plant Winter Squash and Sweetcorn In the low desert, plant winter squash the last 2 weeks in July. Refer to the Cooperative Extension's Vegetable Planting Calendar for Maricopa County at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf for a complete vegetable planting schedule. Some of the smaller winter squashes (e.g., Butternut , Acorn, Spaghetti) can also be planted in March. See http://home.att.net/~millero/wintersquash.html for some more tips. Plant sweetcorn from mid February through March and from mid July through August per the Vegetable Planting Calendar. In the spring, wait to plant the super sweet sh2 types until March when the soil is warmer. See http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html for more tips about sweetcorn. , ----- Original Message ----- From: > I live in Apache Junction. When is the best time to plant corn and winter squash? Some sources say July 15, others say August 15. Also, what is the best way to prepare the soil for planting these two vegetables? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:03:46 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 12:03:46 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Shade Screen Depends on how permanent you want the shade screen to be. One easy method is to construct a frame using EMT pipes (thinwall electrical conduit), anchor it to the ground and cover it with shade cloth available at garden centers, Home Depot, Home Base, etc. You could also frame it with PVC irrigation pipe but if it is not the UV stabilized type, it will become gets brittle from the sunlight with a year or so. Helps to paint . -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I want to build a shade screen for a vegetable garden that measures 12x6. It will have tomatoes and peppers so it should be about 6 feet high. Do you have any suggestions? > Thanks From hckymom@gateway.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:27:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 14:27:48 -0700 (MST) From: hckymom@gateway.net hckymom@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet From DavidWanda@compuserve.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:20:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:20:08 -0700 (MST) From: DavidWanda@compuserve.com DavidWanda@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. Can you help? Wanda From neilkupper@earthlink.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:46:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 15:46:55 -0700 (MST) From: neilkupper@earthlink.net neilkupper@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? From henryr@kaibab.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:37:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 17:37:33 -0700 (MST) From: henryr@kaibab.com henryr@kaibab.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:33:10 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:33:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Tough-skinned Tomatoes You can view a previous response by a fellow Master Gardener to a similar question at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001294.html High temperatures, dryness in the air and sunshine can all play a role in toughening up the skin of tomatoes. We got some pretty high temps pretty early this summer. In George Brookbanks' book "Desert Gardening" he mentions that tomatoes grown in the desert tend to have leathery skins. A remedy he suggests is to grow varieties that hide their fruit under a canopy of leaves. Don't expose the fruit by staking the plants and pruning out their side shoots. Instead, encourage plants to bush out and scramble over the ground keeping it moist and the inside of the bush humid. He says to then look inside the jungle to find the softest, sweetest, thinnest-skinned fruit. We have a Fact Sheet on growing Tomatoes In Desert Gardens. For information on ordering a copy, please visit: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm The fact sheet is number MC22. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener DavidWanda@compuserve.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My tomatoes didn't do very well this year. They had tough skins. Is there something lacking in my soil? I know it is too late for this year, but I would like to find out the problem so I can prepare my soil, if that is what the problem is, for next year. I have them in raised beds and domestic water as opposed to irrigation water. > > Can you help? > > Wanda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:44:48 -0700 Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 18:44:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash I consulted George Brookbank's book, "Desert Gardening" and on the subject of squash he advises "succession sowing". He says that because of the initial rapid growth and quick-fruiting habits of squash, it is better to make several sowings rather than keep an individual plant for as long as you can. The book suggests pulling up an old plant. It takes up a lot more space, it easily tires, and it's almost sure to get vine borers. His suggestion is to sow a second lot of seeds two weeks after you harvest the first fruit from the previous sowing. He says this way you may be able to get four sowings between the end of March and mid-September. He says in the book that one year in Tucson a second sowing of seeds was made on July 4th and the fruit were ready to eat within 30 days. I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop - Thanks for writing! Sue Bass Master Gardener Henryr@kaibab.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have summer squash (yellow crookneck) that has been producing good crop. Now lately the plants are producing lumpy mottled greenish-yellow fruit. I was hand pollinating when the flowers would be open but now they are just shriveled and unopened. Is it the heat and should I just pull the plants out and wait for next planting season. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mikendeb@thesurf.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:21:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:21:58 -0700 (MST) From: mikendeb@thesurf.com mikendeb@thesurf.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? Thank you for your time.Deb From swenty@ctaz.com Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 19:33:01 -0700 (MST) From: swenty@ctaz.com swenty@ctaz.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:34:22 -0700 Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 20:34:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass >... > I'm glad that you wrote in - my own yellow squash have slowed way down in production so I think I will be trying out this idea of sowing a second crop ...! Might be better to wait a few weeks else the squash may bloom and the blossoms fade while the temps are still too high for pollination. Tucson is about 1000 feet higher in elevation than Phoenix and the midsummer temps are about 10 degrees lower. What works there usually works here as well but at a different time. Their spring season trails 3-4 weeks in the spring and their fall leads by several weeks as well. But if space permits, why not give it a try. I planted corn this spring well after the recommended date to see if it would pollinate. In the corn patch with no manual pollinating assistance but there were a lot of large blank spaces on the ears. The ears in the patch with early morning assistance (shaking the stalk) filled in fairly well but not as well as when planted during the regular season. -Olin From mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:51:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 09:51:03 -0700 (MST) From: mbuksas@worldnet.att.net mbuksas@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:17:07 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:17:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Recently the AZ Republic gardening section mentioned that it is time to plant Armenian cucumbers. What are they? Is this the regular cucumber you see in supermarkets? If not, where do you buy the seeds? It's often called "yard-long" cucumber. It's really in the melon family - sometimes called "snake melon".. Grows very well in the low desert. Best used as a cucumber when they are still small cucumber-sized - they really become a yard long if you let them grow and they very rapidly, faster than zucchini. Quite a few listings on the web. Use search keyword "Armenian cucumber". -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 05:57:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 05:57:02 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Cereus Cactus Mine had the same thing and I didn't know what to do about it. So I hosed it down with a jet spray, thinking that maybe there was some kind of bug causing this brown, hard scaly 'growth'. It worked. The spots went away and have not returned. Maybe I was just lucky and the timing was right. But you might give this a try. It's my all-time favorite approach to everything I don't understand in the garden. Hose it down. If it works, fine. If not, it's back to the drawing board. :) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of swenty@ctaz.com Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 7:33 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener Think it is a cereus cactus. Has areas of what looks like brown wood going up the arms of the cactus. On top of arm. More spots appearing. What is it? How can I stop it or reverse it? Appreciate any help as it is quite a large plant and I do not want tolose it. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cntaz@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) From: cntaz@aol.com cntaz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? Thank you for any help. From dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:03:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 11:03:32 -0700 (MST) From: dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us dgerkin@ci.scottsdale.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me select a turf for residential use. I would like a turf that: 1. has low water use 2. relatively low maintenance, not a lot of thatch build up quickly. 3. Low pollen production for allergies 4. Does not spread into gardens aggressively 5. Does not have a broad stem and cut be cut with non-reel type tiff mower. From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:57:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 13:57:08 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants in Vegetable Garden I shouldn't have thought that ants would be the culprit if your vegetation is being devoured. Ant biology and methods of control is discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm There are several ideas that you can try before resorting to sprays or pellets. What concerns me is the identification of what IS eating your crops. Check out the plant diagnasotic section of our Timely Tips column for July, to see if any of the many situations cited apply to your vegetable patch. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener cntaz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have ants in my vegetable garden. they are eating everything. How can I get rid of them without using pesticides? > Thank you for any help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:00:50 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:00:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Ants We have a good fact sheet that includes ant biology and management at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm I don't ever worry about ants unless they come in the house. With a lovely rotting compost pile outside in a far corner of the yard, any ants [roaches for that matter, too] seem to find that section much more appealing than my home! They are good to keep the compost pile moving, and in a recent article published in the Republic by one of our Ag Agents, ants can do alot of good for the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener neilkupper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have small ants in a stream on the edge of the sidwalk at the front of my house. They have been there for years. I noticed they like to get on the some of the trees and bushes (Palo Brea and Cassia). Does this hurt or help the trees and in general should I just laeve them alone? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:14:38 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:14:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Apple Spots Coddling moths are sometimes a problem....the larva are the proverbial worms in the apple...that burrow to the apple core leaving spots on the outer surface of the apples. See the relevant discussion in the Master Gardener Manual, Entomology chapter at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/deciduous.html Another possibility is that your trees may be suffering from irregular irrigation and resulting poor calcium uptake. See the Manual's pathology section at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/specifictrees.html To brush up on fruit tree care, you might like to peruse this chapter of the Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy PoetEvan@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Some apples on my tree have a brown spot which usually begins on the botton, becomes larger, soften and rots, and eventually infects the entire apple. > > What spray should I use? Is there more than one solution to the problem? > I recently bougth my house, I didn't plant the tree;I assume taht the apples are golden delicious. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:30:52 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:30:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Stick in the Ground Propogation If you have more than one stick, you could always experiment and put one in your soil. You might want to read the section of the Propogation Chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Among other things you would want to remove buds which would sap the energy you want to go into rooting, use a rooting hormone to encourage same, and use a good rooting medium rather than soil. You'll want to keep it evenly moist to encourage the roots. Sometimes, for woody specimens, it is better to take the cutting in the fall/winter or dormant season. Linda Guy Master Gardener 99fathead@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a large branch from a weeping willow > tree. I was told that if I dig a hole double > the size of the branch diameter hence "stick > it in the ground, it will grow. Is this true? > Please advise. Thank you, Jen. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:26:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:26:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fish Oil for the Birds The best way to protect fruits from the birds is to enclose each tree with a broad-mesh netting 2 to 3 weeks before the fruit matures. Others have hung strips of foil or shiny papers whose rustling in the breeze is said to deter the birds. As to fish oil's use in the matter, I am unaware of any reference thereto. It can be used as a foliar fertilizer, though I've not heard of its use for fruit trees. I haven't used it because neighborhood cats in my yards are already a problem for me, and I'm afraid the smell would be even greater enticement. Many nurseries have this product, as do the organic farm & garden supply catalogs like Peaceful Valley Farm. Linda Guy Master Gardener. SAHend@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Does fish oil repel birds from fruit trees? If so, where can I purchase it? > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:39:10 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:39:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! Linda Guy Master Gardener lxs@deainc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:47:35 -0700 Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2000 14:47:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Color for Payson Have you contacted your county's cooperative extension office yet? They would have a much better appreciation of your area's needs and the vegetation that grows best there. Your situation is different than our low desert in Phoenix. The other thing you might try is to order Home Horticulture publications [many of what we use are specifically designed for Maricopa County, however]. We have a listing on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you could look through the flowers or ornamentals section for example. Would your library's reference section [#635] happen to have a notebook with these publications? Good books are listed on our reference list for selecting plants, which you can view at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-plnt.htm Several you might consider are by Mielke and Schuler who discuss elevation and other climate needs in their books. Linda Guy Master Gardener Linda Guy Master Gardener bjm@cybertrails.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From selligirl@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:03:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 15:03:40 -0700 (MST) From: selligirl@aol.com selligirl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted an Arizona Ash Tree in April, 2000. This tree started out with small white bugs that killed the leaves. I sprayed it with soapy water twice. I had less bugs, but then noticed a white fungus on the stem of the leaves. I purchased an insecticide/fungicide from the store and sprayed the tree twice. I no longer see these bugs or the fungus, and now the leaves are turning brown. The tree looks like it is producing new leaves, yet as soon as they open they turn brown. My watering schedule is approximately once every 10 days. I check the ground two feet deep with a probe to make sure that I am not overwatering. Are the leaves turning brown from the heat or is it possible that something else is wrong with it? Thank You. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:20:20 EDT Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 20:20:20 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Junipers turning brown Junipers are a good host for spider mites and this is the time of year for them to be active. Also twig borers are active now, they will cause branch ends to die and turn brown.The spider mites can usually be controlled by frequent hosing down of the shrub with a strong stream of water; the twig borers will require an application or two of Sevin or diazanon. Even though you say that the trees are getting ample water I suspect that some or all of the problem may lie with the irrigation. You are watering twice a week when abetter plan would be to deep water once every two weeks in summer unless the trees were just planted. Watering depth should be three feet plus. The deep water will encourage the roots to go deep and will flush the salt out of the root zone. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. A mulch around the trees will help to keep the soil cool, conserve moisture, keep down weeds and provide a source of humus. Why not checkout the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html I don't feel qualified to answer your question about your soil test. Perhaps someone else on line will do so. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:58:27 EDT Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 23:58:27 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peach tree problems Sabita, The life expectancy of the peach tree is 10 to 20 years, so it could be headed down hill from old age. The peach tree is also susceptable to Texas Root Rot however TRR doesn't usually strike until mid to late summer. It will show a comlete colapse within a short time ( one week ) The leaves all wilt, turn yellow and brown and hang on the tree. This may happen to one half the tree at one time. Your peach tree should be pruned annually in the winter to give you a better fruit crop. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin describing how it should be done. Now we are comming to what I think is the biggest problem--- irrigation. You are watering five times a week when deep watering once a week would be very ample. By deep watering I mean water that penetrates to over three feet deep. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From clydic@netzone.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:47:12 -0700 Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:47:12 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Contact Glen McCombs or Kathy at Plant Fair Nursery in Star Valley. They carry a broad selection of native and adapted plants that are low water use and would do well in your case. Good luck!! Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bjm@cybertrails.com Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2000 4:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener I live in Payson,AZ and in Zone 6 or 7. I would like to plant a storm drain (around the top) so it won't look so dingy in reds, yellows, light and dark green colors. What is native to my area,when to plant, with very little trimming, and how?? Please and Thank you in advance. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:06:51 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 08:06:51 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Comment from AgInfo site (fwd) > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 21:46:07 -0700 (MST) >From: ed-gayle@home.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from AgInfo site > >A new comment has been posted to AgInfo > >Individual: Gayle Fischer >Email: ed-gayle@home.com >City: Mesa State: AZ >Country: USA >Comment: HELP. I don't know where to ask this question. We live in Mesa >near Lindsay & Broadway. I grew up in southeastern U.S. I went outside >one morning last week and our driveway was covered with >ants. Unfortunately, so was the grass I walked through without noticing >them. I was bitten numerous times by ants that are reddish-brown and >about 1/8" long. The bites, which burned terribly and swelled, formed >pustules on top, like fire ants. There are no obvious "fire ant >mounds". Are these fire ants, and if so, what can we do about them. I >know that in the south, the County had to deal with them because nothing >the public could use would eradicate them. >Category: Public > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:05:17 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:05:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ants Gayle, I've had excellent luck getting rid of outdoor ants by using Diazonon granules spread near their nest. They will usually be gone in one or two days. A non toxic material that works nearly as well but not as fast is citrus peel and water chewed up in a blender. Pour the mixture into the ant hill. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:53:51 EDT Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:53:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Arizona Ash, leaves turning brown Once the Arizona Ash has become established, a 10 day or greater irrigation interval for summer watering in the low desert would be fine. However your tree has only been planted approximately three months and the roots have not had a chance to become established. I would recommend an irrigation interval of 7 days of deep watering to a depth in excess of two feet. If the tree was planted from a 24 inch box or larger then the watering depth should be three feet. If you applied the insecticide fungicide according to label instructions, watered well the previous day, applied early or late in the day and the daily temperature was not in excess of that recommended by the label, then the burning should not have been from that source. I suspect that the brown leaves are most likely from under watering. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From AZSHAG@aol.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 22:29:15 -0700 (MST) From: AZSHAG@aol.com AZSHAG@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am installing plants at my Phoenix residence. Last week I installed five-gallon sized containers of hibiscus, canary island palm, red yucca, cape honeysuckle, natal plum and red bird of paradise. Many of them are stressing which I anticipated, but I am confused about how I should be watering them. I installed drip emitters to them, but I am afraid I am either over watering or not watering enough. They all are getting full sun (I am shading the hibiscus from afternoon sun) and I backfilled holes with native soil and mulch mixture as suggested from the nursery. Any suggestions for water cycle on newly installed plants? What about vitamin supplements to help with stress? Any feedback would be appreciated. (P.S. I apologize if this question has been duplicated, I left a near identical question elsewhere) From neskovich@home.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:16:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:16:51 -0700 (MST) From: neskovich@home.com neskovich@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you EFFECTIVELY get rid of crabgrass which is growing through rock landscaping and mixing in with the existing plants without killing the wanted plants? Please help, I am frustrated. From kkturner@srpnet.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:21:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 11:21:25 -0700 (MST) From: kkturner@srpnet.com kkturner@srpnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need advise about an orlando tangelo tree. It is a young tree I had planted 2 years ago. It is about 5 feet tall. I have an irrigated lot. About a week ago, all the leaves suddenly tried. The wood still appears to be green but there are no functioning leaves left. It has been suggested I can severely prune the tree and it might come back. Is this possible? If so I need more exact instructions and a timeframe. I'd appreciate any suggestions! You can also phone me at 602-236-6969 or 480-835-0545 From camden@dancris.com Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 6 Jul 2000 18:17:21 -0700 (MST) From: camden@dancris.com camden@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? From KSWagner2@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:42:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 06:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: KSWagner2@aol.com KSWagner2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Spanish Dager Yucca. The tips of the leaves appear to be burned as if someone might have used a lighter. The plant is in full sun on the south side of the house. Can you give me some idea of what the problem might be? Thank you. From ClaireASP@aol.com Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:16:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 14:16:53 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was at the Home Depot today and found a plant that had Sago written on the pot.But it looks very different than the usual Sago that we see. Are there more than one variety of Sagos? Nobody at Home Depot could give me any information on this plant. Might you know which one I am talking about? If so, does this variety need as much shade as the regular Sago needs? My son has told me that he has seen a plant in somebodys yard that kind of looks like a Sago, but it is planted in full sun. Could the plant that I saw at Home Depot be the same one that he has seen? By the way, I bought one; so if you can give me any info, I sure would appreciate it. From datura@mail.inet-images.com Fri, 07 Jul 2000 15:14:31 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 15:14:31 -0700 From: Silvia McDonald datura@mail.inet-images.com Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable (for me) locations. What is the best way, if any, to move these? What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. Thanks Silvia McDonald From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:17:09 -0700 Date: Fri, 07 Jul 2000 16:17:09 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Sago is part of the common name of Sago palm, which is really a cycad not a palm at all. There are dozens of species from all over the world, but Cycas revoluta, Sago palm is far and away the most commonly sold. They can be grown in full sun if slowly acclimated to it, either by providing shade in the summer, delaying planting until fall, or enduring the burn and loss of all existing leaves and waiting for the new ones to emerge fully sun hardy. Partial shade is much better. Mary From sterlin@magma.ca Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:56:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 13:56:43 -0700 (MST) From: sterlin@magma.ca sterlin@magma.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:44:07 -0700 Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 22:44:07 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Rafflesia ----- Original Message ----- From: > Where does the rafflesia grow. I hear it is the largest flower in the world? >From http://www.didyouknow.com/flowers.htm "The largest flower in the world, the rafflesia arnoldi, weighs 7 kg (15 pounds) and grows only on the Sumatra island of Indonesia. Its petals grow to ½ metre (1,6 feet) long and 2,5 cm (1 inch) thick." -Olin From cincy@uswest.net Sat, 8 Jul 2000 06:42:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 06:42:29 -0700 (MST) From: cincy@uswest.net cincy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? From kmieb@hotmail.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:19:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 09:19:56 -0700 (MST) From: kmieb@hotmail.com kmieb@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello... I have a couple of questions I was hoping you might answer.The first one has to do with my potted plants and their diet. I have been giving them fish emulsion and am sure that they have enough nitrogen but I can see that they are lacking some other important nutrients. So here is my question, What nutrients might they be lacking and where can I find an organic fertilizer that will do the trick. My second question has to do with my chiles and these brown spots on them. Could these spots be signs of blossom-end rot? Thank you so much for your time. From vlindsay98@yahoo.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:06:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 07:06:42 -0700 (MST) From: vlindsay98@yahoo.com vlindsay98@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? From sandiwilson@hotmail.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:08:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 10:08:47 -0700 (MST) From: sandiwilson@hotmail.com sandiwilson@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:45:12 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:45:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Grapes We have a publication called Backyard Grapes which you can order from the Cooperative Extension service. The publication is number MC 59 and you can view information on ordering it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some branches of the library have a binder containing our publications. If you choose to check there, ask the librarian for binder 635 General Reference. The title is Horticulture Publications. Some additional information I found in the book Desert Gardening, by George Brookbank is that when you plant your grape, you should dig a big hole at least 2 feet square x 2 feet deep. Get through any caliche. Then backfill with soil mixed with compost or steer manure, ammonium phosphate and sulphur. He says 1-1/2 cubic feet of compost or steer manure, 2 lbs of sulphur and 1/2 lb of ammonium phosphate. This book has quite a bit of information of growing grapes. You might want to take a look at a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener sandiwilson@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband was given a Ruby Seedless grape vine in a 12" container. We'd like to plant it on the west side of our wooden fence and let it grow along the fence. Will that work? Is there any soil preparation we should do before planting it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:55:08 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 13:55:08 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Walking Cane I need a bit more information from you on the plant you are referring to. Are you speaking of Corylus a. 'Contorta', known as Harry Lauder's Walking Stick? If so, according to the Sunset Western Garden Book, this plant is not recommended for our zone. It is listed for zones 1-9 and 14-20. Our Sunset zone is 13. If this is not the shrub you are referring to, please let me know and I will do more research. Sue Bass Master Gardener vlindsay98@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do you plant a walking cane? Do you have to split the plant or can you plant the cones??? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:26:19 -0700 Date: Sat, 08 Jul 2000 14:26:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Bouganvillea and Bottlebrush You can find information on propagating woody plants from cuttings in our on-line Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Sue Bass Master Gardener camden@dancris.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there a way to propagate bougainvillea and or bottlebrush plants? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:32:17 EDT Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 18:32:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Crabgrass, getting rid of when growing amid broad leaf plants An herbicide commonly called Flazifop is designed to rid landscapes of grassy weeds that are growing up amid broadleaf plants that you want to save. One trade name that I have used is Grass Be Gone. Good luck. Rod From sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 10:34:02 -0700 (MST) From: sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com sophie_mcdermott@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? From lampton@uswest.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:45:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:45:42 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From lampton@uswest.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:42:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 09:42:33 -0700 (MST) From: lampton@uswest.net lampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, Sincerely, Lew lampton@uswest.net From Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Sat, 8 Jul 2000 19:47:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 8 Jul 2000 19:47:09 -0700 (MST) From: Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Aanthonyandsons@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Japenese pine and half the tree looks like it's dieing. The needles are yellow with brown tips. From clairedc@peaplepc.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:05:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 13:05:22 -0700 (MST) From: clairedc@peaplepc.com clairedc@peaplepc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. Should anything be applied to bare spot where bark is missing? From caroler@netuser.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:43:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 12:43:16 -0700 (MST) From: caroler@netuser.com caroler@netuser.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are adding a door where a window now exists. Planted close is a white fig tree. We have to put cement steps in front of the door, but when we took out the hedge, we discovered one of the large roots from our fig tree is above the ground right where we need to put the steps. My question is: How much of a root system can you remove without damaging the tree? We live in Sunnyvale, CA (Zone 15) Thank you in advance for your reply. Best Regards, Carole Richborg From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 14:56:17 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 14:56:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Watering needs of Acacia Lew: I would suggest deep watering your tree to a depth of 3 feet once every two weeks during the summer months. You can check the depth by inserting a metal rod into the ground. The deep watering washes the salts away from the tree roots. I'd like to refer you to an archived response from Fellow Master Gardener and Arborist, Rod McKusik. You can view his response at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3187.html Here at my home, we deep water our trees once every two weeks. We water with emitters and we run them for two hours per watering. Sue Bass Master Gardener lampton@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We need help or rather our tree needs someones help. We have an Acacia saligna it has begun to drop leaves like it did last year. It dropped leaves last year enough that we thought we had lost it for sure, but it came back this year and we were very pleased, we thought we had solved the problem, but now it seems we were only fooling ourselves. It is about 6 feet tall and been in the ground about 1 1/2 years. please give us a response before we loose it, if you need anymore information I will be glad to suppy it. It is getting watered about 2 times a week at about 15 gallons per watering. We have cut back on the watering just here recently. Now that is about 15 gallons per hour, we have the emitter opened up all the way, > Sincerely, > Lew > lampton@uswest.net > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:31 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:07:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva Cindy: The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. Sue Bass Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi, > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. > Thank you, > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:33:07 -0700 Date: Sun, 09 Jul 2000 15:33:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Damaged tree bark In our archives I found an answer to a similar question, given by Rod McKusik, fellow Master Gardener and Arborist. In his response Rod states, "It has been found that injured trees will heal better if nothing is applied to the wound. It is reccomended that any loose bark be trimed back to live wood." Sue Bass Master Gardener clairedc@peaplepc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a golden delicious apple tree that was damaged with weed eater,some bark was taken off. The tree was planted approx.2 months ago and is only 4-5 ft. tall. > Should anything be applied to bare spot where > bark is missing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:54:03 EDT Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:54:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fig tree with damaged roots Carole, If your fig tree has other roots it should survive the loss of one root. When you cut off the root be sure to leave a clean cut and do not use any type of sealer. It is very important that the tree receive adequate deep watering to minimise the amount of stress. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:58:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:58:32 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Possible Ladybug larva There is also a good picture of the "lady bug larva" stage at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ladybug.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: Sue Bass > The insect you described could be the larva of the ladybug. It is about 1/4 inch long and as described in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, looks more like a small, six-legged alligator. You might want to stop in at your local garden center or book store and take a look at an excellent close up photo on page 151 of this book and see if this is the insect you have in your garden. The larva of the ladybug can consume many more aphids than adult lady ladybugs do. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:32:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:32:07 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Worms I'm sorry to have kept you waiting so long. I had hoped that the relevant section of our archives, with a similar response of mine, would become available, but it appears we are having some technical difficulties. Red wrigglers, used for bait, are not thought to be heat-hardy in our soils or compost piles. I've heard this at several presentations on the topic. Many people will purchase a cup to start a vermicomposting operation inside their home, which is essentially processing your vegetal scraps and newspaper strips with worms in a large covered container in a dark, cooler corner of the house. You can contact a place called AZWORMZ at Azwormz@aol.com or 480-968-2318 for a nice printout. The September 1999 issue of Phoenix Home & Garden [p. 32] had a good three page writeup on vermicomposting. Also the "Rotline" of the Santa Clara County Home Composting Education Program [408-299-4147; that is 408 not 480 for east valley!] has an excellent brochure as well. Outdoors, my prepared soil is jam-packed with the native worms because I put in organic matter twice a year. I've never added worms in my prepared beds. I don't see the critters in the summer, because they descend out of the heat's range. As the weather cools, the top level of the soil is a veritable worm metropolis! In fact, in the areas that stay shaded under a dwarf line during 3 months of the winter, they are virtually on the surface. I can tell because about a 9 square foot area is covered in castings, the worms' fecal matter which is the object of vermicomposting after all. The castings in the sunny areas are within the soil, doing good work too. Hope this helps with your worm question. Linda Guy Master Gardener Michele Govig wrote: > arid_gardener > I spend about 15 minutes every morning picking mushrooms out of my lawn. > Some of them are ghostly green on the underside and I have read that they > can be very poisonous. I only water 1x per week and try to get the mushrooms > before they open. I have young kids and dogs so I worry about putting down > a fungicide, but I also worry about them eating a mushroom. Does anybody > have a solution. Also, is it ok to put earthworms purchased at a fishing > store into my gardens? > > Michele Govig > Mgovig@home.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From DPridmore@webtv.net Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:49:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 20:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: DPridmore@webtv.net DPridmore@webtv.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page live in michigan have drawf cherry tree sweet nebor. has a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . From azupsguy@earthlink.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:03:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:03:22 -0700 (MST) From: azupsguy@earthlink.net azupsguy@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? From tempebob@worldnet.att.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:09:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:09:04 -0700 (MST) From: tempebob@worldnet.att.net tempebob@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? From jess@cvweb.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:44:20 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 07:44:20 -0700 From: Jessica Turvey jess@cvweb.com Subject: [AG] Herb Information Question #1: Besides Tip Top Nurseries and their kind, where else would you recommend that I purchase healthier herbs. Question #2: I have been looking for a broad leafed chive called "curly chive" to plant in my garden and have been unable to locate it. Question #3: Is this time of year okay to plant herbs. I am getting mixed messages in the literature. I should mention that my garden faces west but is partially shaded by a tree. Thanks much ! Jess T. From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:46:19 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:46:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Nontoxic Herbicide - FLamers This listing of purveyors of flamers is by no means exhaustive being simply based on the garden implement catalogs I currently have in my possession! Lee Valley tools has a small weed torch, perhaps not for your size job, on page 33 of the 2000 main catalog [not the seasonal issues]. 800-871-8158 www.leevalley.com Peaceful Valley Farm Supply has the biggest selection, p. 37 of the 1999 catalog. 888-784-1722 www.groworganic.com I couldn't find one in the A.M. Leonard catalog, which doesn't have a good index, but call them at 800-543-8955 or check out www.amleo.com Linda Strader wrote: > Thank you for your response. I've heard of this, and it might work for this project. The only problem is training city maintenance personel not to melt the irrigation system. Do you know of a company that markets this? > P.S. Southern Arizona doesn't have ice and snow! > > >>> Linda Guy 07/06/00 02:39PM >>> > Perusing some of my organic farm and garden catalogs, the primary recommendation is flamers, whose use is being revived, evidently, with > excellent results. In many cases it is said to work as well as herbicides as well as being fairly cost and labor effective. > > The searing heat boils the water in the cells of the plant, rather than burning them. This causes the cell walls to burst. Highly > effective on annual weeds, perennial weeds with taproots or woody stems might require reflaming. > > Costs range from $40 to $200. Depending on where you live, you could use it as a de-icer or snow-melter in the winter! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > lxs@deainc.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:52:29 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:52:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Newport Flowering Plum Edibility The Sunset Western Garden Book, p.442, says that the fruit of prunus cerasifera, also known as cherry plum or myrobalan, is a small red plum that is sweet but bland. It will self sow freely and some seedlings might begin to bear yellow fruit. Linda Guy Master Gardener J_chitwood@email.msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are the fruit on a Newport Flowering Plum Tree(prunus cerasifera 'Newport'), edible? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:54:34 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 08:54:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry Tree Pollination Your needs will be best served by contacting your own county's cooperative extension service whose phone number is listed in the government pages of your phone directory. You should have the specific varieties of the trees in question, so they can research if either are self-pollinators and what the risk of cross-pollination is. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener DPridmore@webtv.net wrote: > arid_gardener > live in michigan have drawf > cherry tree sweet nebor. has > a tart wild cherry tree will they cross poll. or do i need another tree or can i cross poll. them my self and i so how and when . > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:04:09 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:04:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Caroline Jessamine Although this plant loks its best when watered regularly, this is not assured by hand watering. The plant's needs will probably be better served if you give it a long slow drink to 2-3 feet deep, every two weeks. If the plant were in full sun, which it prefers, it might need it as often as weekly. Perhaps it is receiving too much or erractic watering with your current practice. Just a note, that the Sunset Western Garden Book says that all parts of this plant are poisonous. Linda Guy Master Gardener smacica@intsvc.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Last winter purchased a Carolina Jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens. > I planted it on the north side of a concrete block wall, running east/west. > It has been doing beautifully until 4 days ago when some of the leaves started > drying up and dying. Some tendrils seem uneffected or lightly effected so far, > but others are completely dead. I thought might need more water so I have been > hand watering since the problem appeared. > And suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:13:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Japanese Privet - Irrigation It sounds to me as if the plants have been overwatered and continue to be so. They can experience some sunburn in the hottest exposures, but this sounds different. This is also a plant that can be susceptible to Texas root rot which is discussed in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm A general rule of thumb is to water through the root ball 2 to 3 feet down. Since this plant does prefer regular watering, I suspect a weekly application in the summer time would do the trick. You are always welcome to bring a specimen of the impacted plant material to the cooperative extension office, or one of the satellites, which are listed on the page where you originally placed your question. The central office has a weekly diagnostic session with staff and volunteers. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener hckymom@gateway.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My husband and I planted about a dozen japanese privit bushes the end of April. We have been following the nursery's instructions on watering however most of them are dying or look poor. We are now watering every couple of days and we give them a deep watering. At first we were watering everyday but was told to cut back. They are losing leaves and some are brown. A couple of them are very bare sticks. We have also put 16/16 fertilizer down about a month ago as per the nursery. What are we doing wrong and how do we save these bushes? P.S. They are in full sun. Thank you for any information you can give me. Janet > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:24:35 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:24:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in the area that we typically serve? Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine when we had planted them. > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith tree. > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please Help???????????? > Thank you for your time.Deb > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rdschwartz@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:17:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 09:17:03 -0700 (MST) From: rdschwartz@aol.com rdschwartz@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Mimosa tree has been infested with flat head borers can the worms invfest other nearby trees - for insttance a young pepper tree. And, how do I get rid of the problem? From jfuerte@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) From: jfuerte@uswest.net jfuerte@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need to fill my planters outside. There are 3 of them imbedded in my soil. They are about2 square feet each. I tried to plant flowers that are low maintenance because i am a poor gardener. Can you give me an inexpensive, hardy, semi-self sustaining, pretty plant to put into them? Thank you so much for wanting to help me From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:05:26 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:05:26 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident >X-Sender: ffolinda@ag.arizona.edu >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.6 (32) >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:19:41 -0500 >To: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu >From: Linda Ffolliott >Subject: cat's claw vine - question from Phoenix resident > >can you respond to this? > >Linda Ffolliott > > >From: "gene" > >To: > >Subject: cat's claw vine > >Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:29:00 -0700 > >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1 > >X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 > >X-Status: > >X-Keywords: > >X-UID: 39238 > > > >We are not sure if you can help us or if we are writing to the right person, > >BUT, since we are new to Arizona, we planted cat's claw (big mistake) by our > >pool 4 years ago.We planted it on the east wall and it grew and grew and > >grew. It has damaged our cool deck of our pool. We took it out and tried > >to remove all roots. Is there anything we can use to kill the remaining > >roots, if we didn't get them all. We are afraid it will come back. > >It was an all day job to remove the vine and dig out the 4 roots. > > > >If you can help us, we would appreciate it. > > > >Thanks so much, Gene & Rosalee Cramer, Phoenix, AZ. > > gigpop@swlink.net > > > > Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From drufener@osbornnet.org Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 13:35:31 -0700 (MST) From: drufener@osbornnet.org drufener@osbornnet.org Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:06:31 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 18:06:31 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Overgrown Chilean Mesquite The more water you give a Mesquite tree the faster they will grow. The Mesquite can survive on very little water. Your irrigation interval should be between 2 and 3 weeks of deep water. If you haven't been deep watering the first bad wind we have may leave that tree down. Yes you probably need to thin and shape the tree so that it has less wind resistance, However do not prune off more than 1/3 in one year and no more than 15% at one time. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on pruning at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:07 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 19:58:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and training by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries Sue Bass Master Gardener azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:06:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 20:06:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Blackberries --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it. Sue Bass Master Gardenenr Sue Bass wrote: > arid_gardener > Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix. The > recommended cultivars are from Texas. They are "Rosborough" > and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994 > through 1998. Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos" > and "Brison". You can view a copy of this study on-line, which > includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and > training by going to > http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some additional information - the cultivars "Brazos" and "Brison" did fairly well, but not as well as the "Rosborough" and"Womack" as you will see in the study when you view it.

Sue Bass
Master Gardenenr

Sue Bass wrote:

arid_gardener
Yes it is possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix.  The
recommended cultivars are from Texas.  They are "Rosborough"
and "Womack", which did the best in a field study from 1994
through 1998.  Two other cultivars that did well were "Brazos"
and "Brison".  You can view a copy of this study on-line, which
includes information on fertilization, irrigation, pruning and
training by going to
http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=pubs&arg=Blackberries

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

azupsguy@earthlink.net wrote:

> arid_gardener
> is it possible to grow blackberries in Phoenix, AZ?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives - <http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/>

--------------3C9D8CFC50581593BF10D60F-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 23:16:51 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Japanese Pine dying The Japanese Pine is not well adapted to the low desert and all its summer heat. My advice is to be sure to deep water the pine weekly during the summer. A 4 inch mulch layer under the tree would also be helpful. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:03:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Transplanting Saguaros In reviewing our publication 8309 about Cactus, Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo [which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals ] it suggests that cactus are quicker to reestablish themselves in the low deserts if transplanted from March through October. The warmer temps favor growth and the plant's increased ability to reestablish. Since you are probably cooler in Tucson, it seems that now is a very good time to do this job. The key to transplant success is to maintain the original directional orientation. This is so very important because the plant will have become toughened and resistant to sunburn on its south and southwest sides. If you were to expose the tender north or eastern sides to intense sun, you risk sunburn which can lead to rot. So use a piece of chalk and mark the orientation. The shallow roots should be cut with a sharp shovel blade in a complete circle about a foot away from the plant's base. Then dig under and carefully pry and lift the plant out of the ground. Allow loose soil to fall away from the roots. Keep lateral root stubs about 5 to 10 inches. Dust all the cuts with powdered sulphur to minimize infection and speed up the callous development process. Now place the transplants in a shaded open area for 1 to 2 weeks to develop these callouses. Replant the cactus in dry soil and do not irrigate until new growth appears at the apex or tips of plant. Larger saguaros or top-heavy cacti should be set a few inches deeper into the ground than they originally grew. Mound aditional soil around the base to support them until rerooting has occurred. Did you remember to repeat the plant's original orientation? Avoid heavier tighter soils, or mix in crushed granite, 1/3 to 1/2 of the soil volume. While organic soil additives can be used, they are unnecessary. Avoid locations where water is likely to collect. Your cactus won't like wet feet. Don't crowd the plantings; allow space for air to circulate freely. Provide appropriate shading, particularly for any species that normally grow under native bushes or trees. Fertilizer is not usually necessary. Limited cautious application early in growing season can stimulate growth. But do not do so in the fall, when you could create new growth that would be more susceptible to winter freeze injury. A last note, Judy Mielke suggests in her book Native Plants for SW Landscapes that the success rate of transplantation declines with the maturity of the specimen. All this is 'book learning' since I do not have saguaros. You can always call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225 for some truly expert advice. Like how to wrap your plants to avoid injury to you and them! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Silvia McDonald wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently moved to a house in Tucson on a 3 acre lot. I have many saguaros > ranging in size from about 8 to 36 inches that I would like to move to more suitable > (for me) locations. > > What is the best way, if any, to move these? > What would be the chance of survival, provided I follow your instructions? > Any other advice on caring for the transplants would also be appreciated. > > Thanks > > Silvia McDonald > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:05:38 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:05:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Watering in Turf Fertilizer You should always follow the instructions for application that are included on all bags of fertilizer for best results! Often it is not the amount of time you water, but how much water you apply as measured by the soaking of the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener cincy@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have e-z turf sod (installed) 6 weeks old.. > when I fertilize should I water 30 mins. before application and 30 mins. after? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:31:27 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 08:31:27 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] First Graders and Cactus I don't mean to frustrate your plans, but having gardened some bit in my children's elementary school I would not recommend using cactus for first graders due to the obvious threat of thorny incursions! Nearly all cacti have spines, so you might try some succulents [cacti are a subset of succulent] which do not, like the aloe family, that would not pose a risk. Using paper or other sleeves to hold the specimens is simply too complicated for little fingers. And it's no fun if only the teacher gets to dirty his/her hands! Permit me to show you some interesting material both on our website and otherwise. First, check out the index listing for youth gardening on the home page http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ There are a lot of references for you there. We also have a list server dedicated to youth gardening that you could subscribe to. At the bottom of this section, check out events: we have an annual school gardening conference, the last weekend of February that you would die for! It's simply jampacked with ideas and people who serve the youngsters in our horticultural community. Lastly, take a look at our book specifically on this topic, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/sch-bk.htm I put every reference and curriculum guide I could find at that time into Appendix B. Check it out! A personal favorite set of elementary school curriculum guides, that is focused on native material, used to come out of the Tucson Botanical Gardens. Call them to see if they would still provide a set; I've always given a modest donation to cover postage when I requested material. 520-326-9686 What I don't know to advise is a list of thornless succulents. Trot on over to the Desert Botanical Gardens, and I'm sure they'll be able to give some good guidance. 480-941-1225. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener drufener@osbornnet.org wrote: > arid_gardener > I am writing lessons for a 1st grade science unit. We will be planting cactus and succulants in small dishes or terrariums. Do you have suggestions for types of plants that would do well in this environment? Are there any Master Gardener volunteers that have done this type of work with schools??? > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:09:50 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:09:50 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flame Throwers Isn't there a "Safer" solution? (pun intended). -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:23:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 09:23:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Flatheaded Borers in Mimosa The publication "Boring Insects Attacking Mesquite Trees" at url "http://ag.arizona.edu/pima/gardening/boring_insects.html describes the problem and corrective action for flatheaded borers in mesquite trees. It would probably apply to mimosa as well. -Olin From umiller@azdps.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:50:47 -0700 Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 05:50:47 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [AG] Chilean Mesquite Overgrown We ran into this same problem with our tree so we started pruning it and now we prune it regularly. We removed branches that grew downward and branches that began to rub against other branches. We also removed branches that grew inward - i.e., branches that didn't grow out and up but just sort of took off in their own direction. We did this gradually so that we didn't cut off too much at one time. This thinned out the tree and gave the wind less resistance. It also gave the tree a more 'airy' look which is nice. Now I just keep an eye on it and when branches start heading off in the wrong direction I clip them right away. I deep water the tree every three weeks in the summer and it seems to like that schedule. I hope this help. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of tempebob@worldnet.att.net Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 8:09 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener We planted 2 Chilian Mesquite trees about 1 year ago. Their growth is somewhat out of control with branches growing in ALL directions. One is a bit heavy on one side and is almost pulling the whole tree over. We have them staked and tied. What is the proper way to prune/train these trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From ariesterer@securityhardware.net Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:21:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 12:21:22 -0700 (MST) From: ariesterer@securityhardware.net ariesterer@securityhardware.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We purchased a Joshua Tree. How much water does it require? Does it need to be watered on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis. From glmogie@bigplanet.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 15:51:23 -0700 (MST) From: glmogie@bigplanet.com glmogie@bigplanet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do they paint the trees in the medians and what kind of paint do they use. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:56:22 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:56:22 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Re: Bugs on watermelon plants ----- Original Message ----- From: > The bottom of the leaves on my watermelon plants are covered with little yellow bugs. They don't move much, but appear to have legs when I scraped them off. Any idea what they are and how to get rid of them? > Probably either melon aphids or whitefly larva. If you have not seen adult whiteflies around the plants, it's more likely to be aphids although it's a bit warm for them. Control is similar for both. The melon aphid will be on the underside if the leaves and it ranges in color from yellow to black. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm "Wash aphids off with a strong blast of water, spray aphids with mild soapy water (1 tsp to 1 tbsp of non-concentrated dish detergent per gallon of water - not citrus based soap). Before spraying the entire plant, always spray a few leaves and check the next day for leaf burn." White flies infest all cucurbits but affect water melons to a somewhat lesser degree than cantaloupes. See http://ag.arizona.edu/aes/yac/veginfo/whitefly.htm for a detailed descrption to help identify it in its various stages. From http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm "A homemade spray for whiteflies and scales: mix one cup vegetable oil plus one tablespoon dish detergent (regular, not concentrated, and not citrus based) in a pint jar and shake. Add one to two teaspoons of this mixture to one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray the underside of leaves to dripping. Always spray a few leaves and check 24 hours latter for leaf burn before spraying entire plant". Good Luck, Olin From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:10:52 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:10:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed I am always amazed at the geographic range of our querents. We've even had participation from Australia and South Africa! However, I'm going to tell you to make haste to the government listings of your phone directory to locate your own county's cooperative extension office. There should be an ag agent and/or Master Gardener volunteers like us who deal with questions like yours, but who can address your specific locale.We have less than 11" rain per year, intense summer sun and heat, generally heavy clay soil, hard/alkaline water.....hardly the conditions that you face. The plant varieties that can thrive here are what we consult on the best. Good luck with your fruit trees! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ mikendeb wrote: > Hello Linda, We llive in Fond du Lac Wisconsin. I sure hope that you can > help us. > If you would like more information please feel free to ask. Deb > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Linda Guy" > To: > Cc: "Arid gardener server" > Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 9:24 AM > Subject: Cherry and Pear Trees Stressed > > > According to our online Master Gardener Manual, there are no sweet or sour > cherry trees considered adapted for the low desert regions of the Phoenix > metropolitan area. I could not find a reference to a 'metro' variety of > cherries. There are a few varieties of pears that will produce here, and > they are listed in the same table on fruit tree varieties at > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties > > > > I suspect you may have overfertilized your trees and perhaps the browning > is the result of fertilizer burn. But before I give you any more advice, > could you please tell me your location, since it sounds as if you are not in > the area that we typically serve? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > Maricopa County > > > > mikendeb@thesurf.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > We had just started growing a couple of fruit trees.they looked fine > when we had planted them. > > > Our cherry tree looks kind of sick, I was wondering if there is > something that we can do to save it. The leaves that were on it has some > brown spots on it, I have been watering it with miracle grow hoping that it > would help.I had also bought some jobe fruit tree spikes. I don't think that > anything is helping it so far as I know. This is a metro cherry tree. we > also have a pear tree that does not look very good, but it doesn't look as > bad as the cherry tree. We also have a winesap apple tree and a granny smith > tree. > > > Is there something that I can do to save our fruit trees.Please > Help???????????? > > > Thank you for your time.Deb > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From thoover@fiskars.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:45:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:45:16 -0700 (MST) From: thoover@fiskars.com thoover@fiskars.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am told that you can grow blueberries in the valley. Are they difficult to grow here and what varieties are recommended for this area? From mmatthes@aol.com Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:21:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 19:21:07 -0700 (MST) From: mmatthes@aol.com mmatthes@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 7-8 ft. 2-trunk pygmy date palm that was planted in my front yard (southern exposure in Surprise) last year. One of the trunks' fronds have died. I think it may be due to excessive winds from this spring. The other trunk's fronds appear healthy. Will the 2nd trunk's fronds grow back? What do I need to do? If it won't grow back, what do I do with the unhealthy trunk? Obviously, removing one trunk would unbalance the tree and look very odd. Could this be bud rot? Do I need to replace the entire tree? THANKS for any help! From lewislampton@uswest.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 08:00:00 -0700 (MST) From: lewislampton@uswest.net lewislampton@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I asked a question on my acacia seligna the other day, I have not heard back or lack the knowledge on how to access that information. Our tree is plantted on the north side of the yard it gets plenty of sun, in fact all day. The leaves are turning yellow on the ends and falling off, it did this very same thing last year, and this year it seemed to be coming back and looking nice and then hot weather hit, and it started to die again. We have upped the water frequency to see if it maybe not getting enoufgh water but it is a desert or so we thought. Help us please we live on the east side. Ellsworth and 95 st.,(480)357-7001. From Loganrca@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:24:04 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:24:04 EDT From: Loganrca@aol.com Loganrca@aol.com Subject: [AG] citrus questions I have three citrus trees in my yard. In the past year I have had to replace two of the trees. It looks like I will need to replace a third this fall. My first question is, I have an orange tree that bloomed very well this spring. It started new growth and new leaves. All the fruit fell off and the leaves stopped growing. The leaves stayed on the tree but only developed to about 1/8 the size they should be. The tree is showing signs of sun burn. Should I be making plans of removing this tree, or is there hope that the tree can be saved? If so what can I do to save it? My second question deals with the fact that the remaining two trees have yellow sections in them. I have fertilized the trees with good fertilizer recommended by the nursery and have give treatments of iron as recommended. This does not seem to have changed the situation at all. Also I am following the recommended watering guidelines. Is there anything else I can do too help these trees? Would there be areas that just cannot support citrus trees? I hope you can shed some light on my problems with citrus trees. Thank you. Harry Logan loganrca@aol.com From cmarkley794@earthlink.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 13:04:33 -0700 (MST) From: cmarkley794@earthlink.net cmarkley794@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I was wondering if I could cut back some chrysanthmums and geraniums? They have been burned by the sun. If I can't do it now when can I? Thank You From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:47 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:44:47 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Sunburn on smooth bark trees Most smooth bark trees growing in the low desert need protection from the hot sun particularly the PM sun. One way to provide that protection is to paint the trunks white or a light color of latex paint. Burlap is another product used. If you notice the citrus orchards you will see that the lower branches are left on the trees to provide shade for the trunks. Good luck. Rod From alice.terry@juno.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:09:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:09:01 -0700 (MST) From: alice.terry@juno.com alice.terry@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Near the bouganvilla bush, where the blossoms drop off, I have little plants coming up. They are about 2 inches high, two to 6 leaves each, and the leaves look like the bouganvilla. However, the leaf stems are a reddish color. Could these be new bouganvilla bushes? From hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:00:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 14:00:29 -0700 (MST) From: hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net hiketheheatinaz@netscape.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I saw on a recent show on TV about saving rainwater from your roof into a water container to be used later to water your plants to save water for your desert landscaping.The downspouts from your roof guuters were piped directly into this container.Do you know where to buy these containers to save the Rain water?Any help would be appreciated. Thank you,Jim Sgambati From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:37:14 EDT Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 17:37:14 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Acacia saligna dying Lewis, We discussed on the phone about your problem with Acacia saligna trees, and I recommended that you apply more water. There is lots of information on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ledcor@email.msn.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:23:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 15:23:53 -0700 (MST) From: ledcor@email.msn.com ledcor@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I plant caladium bulbs (tubers) in my garden in Phoenix? What is the best time to plant and will I need to pull them in winter? When do I pull them and how do I store? The garden bed I've chosen is full shade. I also understand I mix a soil of peat moss, sand and mulch prior to planting. Any other suggestions or tips? Thanks, Debby From theingurgios@aol.com Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:02:39 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:02:39 -0700 (MST) From: theingurgios@aol.com theingurgios@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a squirrel that insists on burrowing in our landscaping. He is making huge tunnels and holes. Daily my husband repairs the havoc only to return the following day to do more damage. Is there a safe, clean way to rid ourselves of this pain in the dirt? Or do we have to live with it? From DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:43:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 16:43:01 -0700 (MST) From: DONNORRICH@AOL.COM DONNORRICH@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have citrus...grapefruit and lemon set and kept fruit. Our organges set and dropped all fruit. We have yellow spots on leaves some curled leaves. What could cause the organges to loose their fruit? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:31:38 -0700 Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 20:31:38 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Rainwater Harvesting Containers Seems any type of containers should work. You could use water storage tanks or stock watering tanks available locally. There are some fancy 55 gal drums on the web at http://www.rio.com/~plastmo/gardnh2o.html http://www.ag.arizona.edu/p