From: Krskrks@aol.com
To: sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: Re: Agave leaves yellowing
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 109
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Both agave plants are large, and were planted a year ago. Initially, plants
were being watered weekly. In the last six to eight months the plants get
about two gallons of water monthly, using a watering can. The soil is
dessert type, however, not well drained. Thank you for responding again.
I have another problem, since I have an attentive audience! We have a berry
tree in our front courtyard, exposure south, west, and north sun. It gives
us shade, however, is a very messy tree filling the courtyard and fountain
all year long. Can you suggest a tree to replace the one we have, that will
provide shade and not shed leaves or berries, so that our courtyard and
fountain remains relatively clean?
Thank you Sue. Christine
--------------07C21C7B97CB0141E6447D1F--
From mrs_apj@yahoo.com Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:38:06 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:38:06 -0700 (MST)
From: mrs_apj@yahoo.com mrs_apj@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I want to plant a native desert plant at a
gravesite. The gravesite is located in
Safford AZ. It would need to a low
maintenance plant, with irregular watering
and handle full sun. I know of many desert
plants, but I also prefer native plants,
like the Calliandra sp., but I need to know
where I might be able to find small plantable
for not a lot of money. I am located in Tucson.
Angela
From dgbook@uswest.net Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:53:14 -0700
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 16:53:14 -0700
From: Diane G. Book dgbook@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] texas root rot
I have lost four trees this year alone to Texas root rot. Our yard was
planted professionally twelve years ago. Over the 12 years we have lost
3 oleanders, 2 Carolina cherry trees, an Aleppo pine, 2 Bottle trees,
and an orange tree. We still have two pine trees and a microtheca
eucalyptus and assorted shrubs living, which we would very much like to
keep that way. The pine trees are near lawns which we have begun to
fertilize with manure etc. hoping it would help the trees as well as the
grass.
This is so very frustrating. What are we doing wrong? Most of the dead
plants were surrounded by rock and were drip watered.
When the first deaths occured we did the manure, ammonium sulfate, soil
sulfur thing as soon as we noticed the plants were in trouble. It
apparently was not soon enough because they all died anyway.
The most recent death is a bottle tree which shaded the driveway and we
would really like to plant another tree. Do you have any suggestions
for one which is resistant to this disease, can be planted next to a
concrete driveway and is not too much of a litter maker?
How can I find on the net the bulletin(#8734) you mentioned? I've tried
and had no luck--sort of like my other problem.
Thanks for any help, Diane the Discouraged Desert Gardener
From umiller@azdps.com Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:22:20 -0700
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 17:22:20 -0700
From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com
Subject: [AG] Citrus leaves curling, fertilizer and color
On the leaves curling, I've had that several times and I think it's thrips
that cause it, though I have never been able to see these thrips, no matter
how hard I look. I read that they are not a problem - just cause unsightly
curled leaves. What has worked for me is to hose down the leaves with a
good blast of water that would knock off anything attached to the leaves. I
don't know if this is a scientific response to the problem, but it has
worked for me several times.
I don't know about the light green color problem.
On the fertilizer, like I've mentioned before, I use the citrus spikes you
can buy in garden centers, though I've found that I still have to use iron
occasionally to keep the leaves green when they start turning yellow.
Once again - this is not an answer from someone who studies plants - just
someone who reads a lot and has found some things that work for me.
Ursula Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of CCcmb5@AOL.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 2:19 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
arid_gardener
My question is regarding my citrus trees. I recently purchased a home that
has 6 citrus trees. 3 lemon, 3 orange. The landscaping in this yard had been
neglected for nearly 10 months. 2 of my 3 orange trees seem to be doing
poorly. The leaves are still quite green but curl a bunch. From a distance
the entire tree appears a lime green color not dark green. Could the curling
leaves mean not enough water? A if so, how muchb do I water? Do the trees
need to be fertilized? Is this the correct time of year to fertilize or does
it even matter? Thank you for your response.
Corey C.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives -
From ruggia@ix.netcom.com Mon, 12 Jun 2000 22:19:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2000 22:19:55 -0700 (MST)
From: ruggia@ix.netcom.com ruggia@ix.netcom.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a couple of problems. First, we have a shamel ash in a grassy area whose leaves are turning dry and brown. We would increase the water, but we feel it is probably getting too much rather than too little - but, boy do those leaves seem dry.
Also, we have many eldarica pine trees that are green on the outer branches, but dry on the inner branches. Also, they tend to get a lot of cobwebs. Are they okay. Any help on either of these trees would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
From paula_mcgee@hotmail.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 04:35:07 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 04:35:07 -0700 (MST)
From: paula_mcgee@hotmail.com paula_mcgee@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
A co-worker mentioned she had bought serval bags of Humas soil that was on sale but wasn't sure if Humas could be used alone or had to be mixed with another type of soil. Can Humas be used alone for flower beds?
Thank you
From MJNatale@home.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:22:36 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 12:22:36 -0700 (MST)
From: MJNatale@home.com MJNatale@home.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have gnats in the house by the dozens. How
can I get rid of them and what do they come
from? They look like fruit fly's but I don't
see any around the fruit.
Thank you
Maryjo
From raykohout@aol.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:47:45 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:47:45 -0700 (MST)
From: raykohout@aol.com raykohout@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am growing a tomato plant in a large pot on my patio. When the tomatoes turn red, the bottom half remains white. They are also as hard as a rock.
What am I doing wrong?
From gerry@kos.net Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:12:08 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 13:12:08 -0700 (MST)
From: gerry@kos.net gerry@kos.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 2 dwarf apple trees I planted four years ago. They have never bloomed. I also planted 4 full size apple trees last fall and along with the dwarfs, they too failed to blossom. What am I doing wrong? I fertilize and water them. They were all pruned early this spring before any buds formed. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Sincerely,
Gerry Michaud
From mdilucido@toddassoc.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 15:38:35 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 15:38:35 -0700 (MST)
From: mdilucido@toddassoc.com mdilucido@toddassoc.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I would like to be able to use the bleed off water from my evaporative cooler to irrigate native plants in my yard. Is this feasible, or is the salt content too high? What plant species would tolerate it and which would not? It seems a shame to let the water percolate or evaporate without benefiting any plants.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:34:48 EDT
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 20:34:48 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash with brown leaves
If the Shamel Ash with the brown leaves and planted with turf surounding it
is not getting additional water over what the grass gets then the tree is
dying of thirst. At least once a month in summer your trees should be deep
watered where the water penetrates to at least 3 feet deep. If your
irrigation system will not accommodate this then put out a slow running hose
and leave it over night.
The problem with your pines is probably caused by Pine Blight a
physiological problem thought to be caused by climatic changes. Be sure that
this tree as well as any other trees are deep watered periodically. Check out
the following website for info on irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:32:26 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:32:26 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Strelitzia [Tropical Bird of Paradise]
I can find no definitive reference for your pruning practice, but it is the
same way that I have pruned my own Tropical Birds of Paradise. They benefit
from frequent and heavy feedings, and bloom best when they are crowded...so
don't divide them very often!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
"Donna Lewis x7963 (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have two TBPs that bloom profusely and I have always cut off the dead
> flowers at the base of the stalk. Is this correct?
>
> Donna Lewis
> Information Services
> Del Webb Corporation
> 602-808-7963
> lewisd@delwebb.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:38:01 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:38:01 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Growing Hydrangeas in Phoenix
I didn't think that they grew here but the Sunset Western Garden Book
[p. 327] suggests that a few varieties will make it: H. anomala, a
deciduous vine; H. arborenscens or smooth hydrangea, a deciduous bush;
H. paniculata, grandiflora or peegee hydrangea another deciduous shrub;
and H. quercifolia or oakleaf hydrangea. Most need rich, porous soil
which means you'll need to amend our local clay. The more organic
material [ie the more acidic the soil] the more apt the pink/red flowers
are to become blue/purple. Applications of aluminum sulfate to the soil
are said to keep pinks and reds, redder.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
w7mal@msn.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do you grow Hydrangeas in the Phoenix area?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:46:51 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:46:51 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Evergreen Shade Trees
Generally speaking, acacias, eucalyptus, lysilomas [desert ferns], olive [pick one that is pollen free], olneya tesota [ironwood], and my personal favorite pithecellobium flexicalule [Texas ebony] are
evergreen.
Knowing your exposure would be helpful, since many 'deciduous' natives and desert adapted trees will stay green most of the year if they are in the hottest exposure [south to west]. The mesquites and palos
in my north yard lose leaves for several winter months, but others like acacias in the south and west yards are leafed out all year long. When you check out sometimes conflicting reference material regarding
whether a tree is evergreen or deciduous, this is often the reason.
If you want to consider other species, check out our publications on ornamentals at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals
You can order the pub(s) or check the reference section of your local public library to see if they carry the notebook of our Home Horticulture publications.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
madasmith@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am looking for a fast growing shade tree that does well in Phoenix. I would prefer an evergreen tree, as I do not like bare branches in the winter. My husband does not like pine trees, so they are out.
>
> Thanks
> Debbie Smith
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:49:53 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:49:53 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Salvaging a Damaged Jacaranda
I suggest that she select one to three of the hardier side shoots to reestablish a trunk structure. This won't happen in a few months, but as long as the tree is well cared for, there is no reason it cannot survive. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Pruning at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html
for some additional tips.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
pattyjoa@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My sister was bringing a 5 gallon Jacaranda tree home and the trunk slammed breaking off the tree top. Some side shoots have grown. What does she do. Is the tree now useless because the main line was cut off. What should she do? Whatever advice you can give will be appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:52:22 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:52:22 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Apple Leaves Curling
It may not be disease, but your cultural practices. Could you reply with your
fertilizing and watering schedule, if you had unseasonable weather of late, how
long the plant has been in the ground, if anything unusual [e.g. adjacent
spraying] has arisen etc.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
grad2000@peoplepc.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What disease makes the leaves on an apple tree curl up and some turn yellow.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:59:30 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 17:59:30 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Vermiculture/composting
I've recently attended two sessions on composting using vermiculture and the speaker used her laundry room, albeit the container was not adjacent to major appliances. My material simply
suggests you not freeze or overheat the bin and that a pantry, corner of the kitchen, laundry room, garage [not adviseable for AZ due to heat; the material was written in Santa Clara, CA],
basement or patio [same remark]. Looking over the material I received, I can pass on a website to further assist you.
www.wormdigest.org contains links to many vermicomposting sites
You might also contact AZWORMZ at azwormz@aol.com or 480-968-2318.
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
PoetEvan@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I'm composting, using a "Can of Worms" container. I'd like to use a cooler place in my utility room, next to a fridge and washing machine. Are earthworms sensitive to vibrations/noise?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:01:52 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:01:52 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Queen Palms
We have a wonderful publication on palms that is available online. Look for AZ 1021, Arizona Landscape Palms [p. 5] at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
tonys@karsten.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I need some help regarding trimming my queen palms? When should you trim palm limbs, and how close to the tree should you cut palm limbs?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:11:32 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:11:32 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Recycling Evap Cooler water
The bleed-off water feature of evap coolers is intended to prevent the salt concentration from building in the apparatus; it is usually too salty for most plants except under special conditions such as sandy soil [less likely in Phoenix] or salt-tolerant plants [bermuda is always a good candidate].
Since most coolers don't have a pump and you drain with a hose, make sure you move it often to prevent salt-saturation of the soil and root zones in a particular area. Other salt-tolerant plants include oleander, euonymus, rosemary [which doesn't like a lot of water to begin with], bougainvillea [same remark],
natal plum and texas ranger.
This information is from our publication 8736, Softened and Recycled Water which you can order from http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mdilucido@toddassoc.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to be able to use the bleed off water from my evaporative cooler to irrigate native plants in my yard. Is this feasible, or is the salt content too high? What plant species would tolerate it and which would not? It seems a shame to let the water percolate or evaporate without benefiting any plants.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:22:21 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:22:21 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Australian Willow Tree [Geijera parviflora]
I am not familiar with this tree, so I consulted the Sunset Western Garden Book. It
seems to be a tough tree requiring little care. It does require well-drained soil, so it
could be that you are overwatering it. It would appear to be a good tree to use in
Phoenix, as it requires little water; summer water simply speeds what would be a
moderate growth rate. It is said to be pest-free.
You asked about fertilization, and quite honestly, I don't fertilize any native or
adapted trees since I'm satisfied with the natural growth rate, being adverse to
excessive trimming/pruning chores in the heat of the summer.
This may not be of great help to you. If you would like the staff at Cooperative
Extension to look at a specimen of the dying part of the tree, you can deliver it to us
at University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ
85040. Include a write-up of your cultural practices and any unusual event that may have
arisen to prompt this problem with your tree.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dgaetano@do.dvusd.org wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have an Austrailian Willow tree
> in my backyard that is aproximately
> 5 years old. Within the past few
> months I've noticed a section of
> the inside branches dying. First
> the leaves dry up and fall off then
> the branch becomes brittle and you can
> snap them off. The outer branches seem
> to be OK so far. They even appear to
> have new growth on the ends. What might be
> causing this to happen? Can I do
> anything to stop it? How often should I
> be watering this tree? Would a fertilizer help? I am sorry to ask so many questions
> but I would hate to loose it after all these
> years. It is probably 20 feet tall. Thanks
> for your help with this.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From jhrob@intsvc.com Thu, 01 Jun 2000 03:35:47 -0700
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 03:35:47 -0700
From: Joy H Roberts jhrob@intsvc.com
Subject: [AG] where can I buy?
June 13, 2000
Dear Arid Gardener,
Do you know where I can purchase Flattop Buckwheat or Texas Betoney (mint
family, not the tree). I have called around nurseries and though some have
heard of them, none seem to have them in stock . Is there a good time of
year to try?
Joy Roberts
From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:55:58 -0700
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2000 18:55:58 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Australian Willow
I agree with Linda Guy's response to you about taking a sample to the Cooperative
Extension office for the diagnostic team to look at. We have an Australian Willow in
our backyard. The only time it was fertilized was then the landscapers planted it
nearly 5 years ago. They added some pellets. Other than that, we water it once every
14 days or so in the winter and about once a week to 10 days in the summer. Right now I
think we are on 7 days. We water on a drip system for 2 hours. Its doing great.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
dgaetano@do.dvusd.org wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have an Austrailian Willow tree
> in my backyard that is aproximately
> 5 years old. Within the past few
> months I've noticed a section of
> the inside branches dying. First
> the leaves dry up and fall off then
> the branch becomes brittle and you can
> snap them off. The outer branches seem
> to be OK so far. They even appear to
> have new growth on the ends. What might be
> causing this to happen? Can I do
> anything to stop it? How often should I
> be watering this tree? Would a fertilizer help? I am sorry to ask so many questions
> but I would hate to loose it after all these
> years. It is probably 20 feet tall. Thanks
> for your help with this.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:39:31 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:39:31 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Preserving Cactus
In the interest of getting you a response, and because most of us volunteers who respond to these questions do not have a specialty in cactus, permit me to suggest you contact the Desert
Botanical Garden's hotline, M-F from 10 to 11:30 am, 480-941-1225. They specialize in this type of plant and will be very helpful to you.
If you have some time later, please post your answer so that we can all learn a bit more about cactus as lightning rods!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
kjmeadows@uswest.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I'd like to know how to preserve our cactus. We have several that were hit by lightning last year. I've heard of people make lighting fixtures out of them. Sounds like a great idea. Thanks!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:45:37 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:45:37 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Testing soil
Mrs. Mardick,
>From time to time, a national wire service article in the newspaper refers
people wanting soil testing to the local extension office, but we [Maricopa
County] have not provided that service
for some time now. In our website, we have provided a listing of soil testing
labs, which you can access at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm
You will have seen repeated reference, in our responses, to a PLANT diagnostic
service which is provided by the local extension office. Homeowners are
invited to bring samples of impacted plant material, along with a description
of the problem and current care practices, to our team of staff and volunteers
who meet weekly to review, diagnose and suggest treatment.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Ella Mardick wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Reading some of the gardening info that comes to me as a subscriber, I
> understood that one could take a sampling of soil to the agriculture
> extension off of east Broadway(4341 E. Broadway). This morning I called
> that office only to be told that they do not test soil for individuals any
> longer and haven't in many years. You now have to call various companies
> to have this service done fort a fee; one company quoted a price of $22.00
> - $28.00 depending on the tests that are done. Some of the lab companies
> do not test soil for home owners who are trying to grow various types of
> plants.
>
> If you have any other current information on where to have soil tested,
> please forward that information to me.
>
> Thank you for your time and attention.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:18:40 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 10:18:40 -0700
From: Mike Sheedy msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] threshing wheat
Leone,
I assume you have a small plot of wheat harvested ~100 sq ft. One easy way
to thresh the grain is to place your wheat harvest on a cement block like a
driveway. All you need to do next is drive your car back and forth over the
straw. After a few times, check your wheat heads and see how well the seed
has been threshed. Keep driving until you are satisfied. The straw should be
dry enough to snap under the weight of your vehicle. I have used this method
to thresh hand harvested soybean plots and it works quite well.
Mike Sheedy
Mike Sheedy
Research Specialist
University of Arizona
Maricopa Agricultural Center
From cmanley3@excite.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:46:42 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:46:42 -0700 (MST)
From: cmanley3@excite.com cmanley3@excite.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Can you tell me if I can transplant a honeysuckle plant and how to do it? Thanks
Carla
From ldrate@pcds.org Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:19:32 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 08:19:32 -0700 (MST)
From: ldrate@pcds.org ldrate@pcds.org
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Is it possible to grow guava trees in the NE Valley? If so, what are the requirements for survival?
From gdell@copperkey.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:45:10 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:45:10 -0700 (MST)
From: gdell@copperkey.com gdell@copperkey.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My sago palm is turning yellow. It receives afternoon shade, pleanty of water and was planted about 7 months ago. HELP..............
From roncook1@earthlink.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 07:33:18 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 07:33:18 -0700 (MST)
From: roncook1@earthlink.net roncook1@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Please tell me how to grow great tomatoes. What kind of soil conditions, additional minerals needed, how to keep birds off new growth, and watering. I have tried and tries, but only get great plants with little or no results. I am willing to totally create a dedicated area and develop the soil needed. Thanks for your help. Whoops--sorry, my email is roncook1@earthlink.net, not earthlink.com. Thanks agair, Ron
From PhxPitt@aol.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:48:27 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:48:27 -0700 (MST)
From: PhxPitt@aol.com PhxPitt@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
This morning I saw, on a leaf of one of our young Lombardy poplar trees, a handsome beetle-like insect, somewhat larger than a leaf-footed bug. It had long legs and the "coffin-shaped" wingcases were colored a red almost as bright as tomato It was a little more than 1 " in length. Could you please identify and tell me if it is a pest in my organic garden, or a helpful predator.
Yours,
Timona M.Pittman, M.D.
From kejehop@uswest.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:23:03 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 13:23:03 -0700 (MST)
From: kejehop@uswest.net kejehop@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
is there any vegetables that can be planted
at this time of the year and if so please
send me the info on what & how. If not let me
know when I can plant. I have one acre that is
irrigated. What is the best fertilizer to use
in the irrigation water? Ant info you can give
me on how to prepare the land will help as it
is only weeds & grass. Thank you.
From GEBarlow@aol.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:51:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 14:51:50 -0700 (MST)
From: GEBarlow@aol.com GEBarlow@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Why did my tomatoes split open on the vine, sometimes before they ripened?
From mkennedy62@excite.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:04:14 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:04:14 -0700 (MST)
From: mkennedy62@excite.com mkennedy62@excite.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
HOw can you start cacti from another cacti?
From Marilyn_Kemper@shamrockfoods.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:33:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 15:33:55 -0700 (MST)
From: Marilyn_Kemper@shamrockfoods.com Marilyn_Kemper@shamrockfoods.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I can't seem to find any information on Salvia. Will it grow in full sun? How much water does it require in the Phoenix hot climate? Also, I planted 20 vinca plants in May in large barrels in full sun. I now have ONE living. Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:56:08 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 16:56:08 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Salvia
Marilyn:
If you can get a copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book, they devote two whole pages (pages 474 and 475, as well as a paragraph on page 473) to 55 varieties of Salvia. Most Salvia enjoy full sun and most like aridity. Salvia greggii (Autumn Sage)
seems to do best with some light shade in our area. At least protection from the afternoon sun. Mine is very happy growing under the canopy of our Acacia tree. Anyway, the chart in this book is very good.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Marilyn_Kemper@shamrockfoods.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I can't seem to find any information on Salvia. Will it grow in full sun? How much water does it require in the Phoenix hot climate? Also, I planted 20 vinca plants in May in large barrels in full sun. I now have ONE living. Any suggestions?
>
> Thank you!!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mariannelandrin@aol.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:28:21 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:28:21 -0700 (MST)
From: mariannelandrin@aol.com mariannelandrin@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
One of our tangerine trees really looks bad. The leave are curled. Even the new growth. It receives the same amount of water as the other citrus trees and they seem to be doing fine. The were put in on the 9th of Feb. There is no apparent bug infestation. What should we be looking for or doing. Thank you
From ljonib@juno.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:27:14 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:27:14 -0700 (MST)
From: ljonib@juno.com ljonib@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Why would fruit production on peach and apricot trees drop from one year to the next, with no apparent change in the over all health of the tree? Blossom count was severely reduced, as opposed to failing to set.
Also, I have a tree which has, I am told, boars of some sort on the trunk and branches. How can they be treated, is there great danger of spreading, etc.
Thank you.
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:37:24 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 17:37:24 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Cacti
Go to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html
This is the section of our on-line Master Gardener Manual
devoted to Cacti, including propagation of cactus.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
mkennedy62@excite.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> HOw can you start cacti from another cacti?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 18:11:04 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 18:11:04 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Watering and Fertilizing Citrus
The first signs of water stress on citrus are curled leaves and dull green leaf color. You can view our on-line publication about watering citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
It is publication no. AZ1151. There is also a publication you can order from the Maricopa Cooperative Extension service on fertilizing citrus. It is publication no. MC91 and you can see information on how to get this publication at the above site. Citrus should be fertilized three times a year in February or March, April or May, and July or August. You can also gain a lot of good information from searching our archives. To do this, visit http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/, then type in a subject, such as Fertilizing Citrus. Past questions and answers
will be brought up by the requested catagory.
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
CCcmb5@AOL.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My question is regarding my citrus trees. I recently purchased a home that has 6 citrus trees. 3 lemon, 3 orange. The landscaping in this yard had been neglected for nearly 10 months. 2 of my 3 orange trees seem to be doing poorly. The leaves are still quite green but curl a bunch. From a distance the entire tree appears a lime green color not dark green. Could the curling leaves mean not enough water? A if so, how muchb do I water? Do the trees need to be fertilized? Is this the correct time of year to fertilize or does it even matter? Thank you for your response.
> Corey C.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 14 Jun 2000 18:45:34 -0700
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 18:45:34 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Agave leaves yellowing
Christine:
I would stop watering the agave for a while. Two gallons a month might just be
too much for it especially sitting in a clay soil. They can get by on very
little water once established. I would also suggest calling the Desert
Botanical Garden hotline for more information. Cactus and succulents are their
specialty. PLANT QUESTIONS HOTLINE: Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m.
(480) 941-1225.
We have a brochure on Trees for Arizona. You can find the information for
getting a copy at:: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Some trees you might consider that wouldn't litter your fountain too badly would
be an Acacia, or a Desert Fern. Another publication that might be helpful to
you is our publication on plants for poolside, which includes a list of trees.
You can view this publication on-line and it is listed at the site mentioned
above.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Krskrks@aol.com wrote:
> Both agave plants are large, and were planted a year ago. Initially, plants
> were being watered weekly. In the last six to eight months the plants get
> about two gallons of water monthly, using a watering can. The soil is
> dessert type, however, not well drained. Thank you for responding again.
>
> I have another problem, since I have an attentive audience! We have a berry
> tree in our front courtyard, exposure south, west, and north sun. It gives
> us shade, however, is a very messy tree filling the courtyard and fountain
> all year long. Can you suggest a tree to replace the one we have, that will
> provide shade and not shed leaves or berries, so that our courtyard and
> fountain remains relatively clean?
> Thank you Sue. Christine
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:52:04 EDT
Date: Wed, 14 Jun 2000 21:52:04 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] texas root rot
Dianne, I haven't seen anyone answer your question about Texas Root Rot so
here goes. Texas Root Rot is found in the southwest US at elevations under
4500 feet. It is caused by a fungus that is nearly impossible to get rid of
once it becomes established in your soil. It usually is most evident during
mid to late summer, very seldom in other times of the year. One should avoid
planting susceptable varieties in areas where calache or a poor draining
soil is present.
Several of the trees that you have lost are listed as very susceptable to
Texar Root Rot, namely the fruit trees, Bottle tree, and the orange tree if
it was not grafted on sour orange root stock. The Pine and the Eucalyptus
trees are listed among the resistant species.
The reason you were not able to find the U ofA Bulletin 8734 on the web
is that it has never been put there. One day hopefully given the money and
the manpower UofA will have all of the home horticulture bullitins on line.
In the meantime it is available for $1.00 from Uof A Extension, 4341 E.
Broadway, Phoenix 85040, or available at your public library where it can be
copied.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 15 Jun 2000 07:31:16 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 07:31:16 -0700
From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Re: where can I buy? [Flattop Buckwheat & Texas Betony]
Hi Joy:
I've had good luck finding Flattop Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum) at
plant sales in the spring and fall at the Desert Botanical Garden in
Phoenix. You might try contacting Mountain States Growers
(623.247.8509)--a local wholesale plant grower--to find out what time of
year to look for them in nurseries.
As far as Texas Betony (Stachys coccinea), I don't know if I have ever
seen it for sale around here except maybe as seed. If you would be
satisfied with something that looks almost identical, you can usually pick
up Salvia coccinea at a nursery. Heck, I can even send you seed for this
if you'd like. The Salvia coccinea reseeds itself prolifically--we
planted three of them on our property, and now we have more than I can
count. This plant requires a bit more water than some of of the desert
plants we have--a good soak every 2 weeks when high temperatures are in
the 90-105 deg range, increasing to once every 7 to 10 days when temps get
up into the 110 deg range.
The common names for Salvia coccinea I know (Scarlet Sage, Red Sage, Texas
Sage) overlap somehat with those of Salvia greggi (Texas Red Sage, Autumn
Sage), so if you decide to call around to nurseries, make sure the person
*really* knows which plant you are looking for. If you have to, ask
point-blank if the person knows the difference between S. coccinea
(cok-sin-ee-uh) and S. greggii (greg-ee-eye).
If you have your heart set on the Betony, you can buy seed for Stachys
coccinea "locally" from Flagstaff Native Plant & Seed which has a web site
at: http://www.flgnativeplant.com/wildflowers.html.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
-mike
arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes:
>Message: 9
>Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 03:35:47 -0700
>To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>From: Joy H Roberts <>
>Subject: [AG] where can I buy?
>
>June 13, 2000
>
>Dear Arid Gardener,
>
>Do you know where I can purchase Flattop Buckwheat or Texas Betoney (mint
>family, not the tree). I have called around nurseries and though some have
>heard of them, none seem to have them in stock . Is there a good time of
>year to try?
>
>Joy Roberts
Mike Todd
Graduate Research Associate
Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051
Arizona State University | Arizona State University West
PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100
Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100
E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu
ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544
ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:52:29 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 08:52:29 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] New Email Address for MG Linda Guy
Please be advised that effective today I am moving all my email
functions to a new address
LindaGuy@uswest.net
I will be attempting to unsubscribe and resubscribe to the two
listservers, but if it doesn't work, would Cathy Rymer and Sue Bass give
me a hand!!!!!!
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:08:21 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:08:21 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Bougainvilla
First of all, if you are going to correspond directly with me in the future,
please note the new email address. And thank you for the kind words on my
past efforts.
In Phoenix, our soils tend to be heavy clay, meaning water stays longer than
I imagine it does in your Florida locale [just got back from two weeks
vacation there and had a ball, by the way!]. So we suggest limited water and
fertilizer which causes the plant to generate the colorful bracts [not
flowers, actually] in profusion.
Yours may require different care since moisture seeps through a sandy soil.
Permit me to suggest you contact your county's cooperative extension office
and its Master Gardener program so that they can better address the specific
needs of your plant within the confines of your particular locale.
Good Luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
nsvarre@attglobal.net wrote:
> Linda:
>
> Having read some of your other recommendations on the internet, I was
> wondering if you could recommend a reference for the care and feeding of
> boganvilla. My boganvilla is doing OK, but there are conflicting
> stories on how to care for it. One suggestion is not to water it until
> it really needs water (tried unsuccessfully) and the other is not to
> fertilize it.
>
> My home is on Santa Rosa Island in the Florida Panhandle between
> Pensacola and Fort Walton Beach. I was watering the boganvilla every
> third day, which seemed successful, and fertilizing every other Saturday
> with Miracle Grow. It was covered with beautiful red flowers, but now
> they have all turned brown and fallen off.
>
> Your recommendation will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
>
> Hans Svarre
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:14:24 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:14:24 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Fruit set on peach and apricot trees
These trees normally produce about a decade after which decline sets in and one needs to consider replacing them. However, if you are a Phoenix area resident, I suspect that your problem was the lack of chill hours
this past, unseasonable warm, winter. Although most varieties sold here have minimal winter chill requirements, yours may not have been satisfied. Check out the Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html for more information.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ljonib@juno.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Why would fruit production on peach and apricot trees drop from one year to the next, with no apparent change in the over all health of the tree? Blossom count was severely reduced, as opposed to failing to set.
>
> Also, I have a tree which has, I am told, boars of some sort on the trunk and branches. How can they be treated, is there great danger of spreading, etc.
>
> Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:18:43 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:18:43 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Houseplant Gnats or Fungus Gnats
These are usually in the soil of your houseplants and are most visible
after they emerge from just watered soil. A fellow MG has suggested the
following in previous responses:
Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of:
1 quart warm water
2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap
Drench the soil without wetting the foliage
This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem
Another mixture is
1 quart warm water
1 teaspoon liquid household bleach
The procedure is the same for both.
I have used a solution designed for these gnats containing Bt, which
attacks the larval stage of the pest [as opposed to the adult]. I have
had complete success, but it required 3 drenchings, since the adults
were not impacted and continued to reproduce until the end of their
lifecycle.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
MJNatale@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have gnats in the house by the dozens. How
> can I get rid of them and what do they come
> from? They look like fruit fly's but I don't
> see any around the fruit.
> Thank you
> Maryjo
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:26:19 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:26:19 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Lawn Options for Shade
This is an answer provided last year to a similar question. Mike Hills
is a fellow Master Gardener and a turf agronomist. For more information,
you can check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on lawns at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Suggestions from Mike Hills:
Dichondra not technically a grass, this broadleaf turf choice is for
low traffic, more decorative areas. Many
people grow it in combination with bermudagrass, although it does better
alone. Tolerant of shade, but not
very tolerant of drought this turf alternative can be planted from seed
or plugs and is generally available at local
nurseries and garden centers in season.
St. Augustinegrass this is an old standard for use in heavily shaded
areas and is quite common in older
neighborhoods in the low desert, where large trees have shaded out other
turfgrasses through the years. This
creeping, warm season turf is very coarse textured, and generally a
light green color. It is not invasive, as there
are no underground rhizomes. Only rarely available as seed at this
time, this grass is usually planted from
plugs or sod produced by local sod farms and sold through nurseries.
Tall Fescue this seeded turfgrass choice is very shade tolerant, if
maintained at a higher 3-4 inch mowing
height. It rarely spreads and some additional seed must be planted each
fall to maintain sufficient turf cover.
Seeding is best accomplished in the fall to allow this cool climate,
European native to establish an extensive
root system before the desert summer hits. Seed is readily available at
nurseries, packaged under a wide
range of variety and brand names all perform similarly in the low
desert. DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS GRASS
BETWEEN MAY 15 AND SEPTEMBER 15 IN MOST LOW DESERT CLIMATES.
Perennial Ryegrass generally a choice for winter overseeding of dormant
bermuda lawns, many of the newer more heat
tolerant perennial ryegrasses can be maintained in shaded, heavily
watered areas as a weak year round turf. Available from
seed in a wide variety of choices from local garden centers and
nurseries should be planted in mid-fall for best results.
Additional comments by Lucy Bradley
There are no varieties of Bermuda Grass that are shade tolerant.
Perennial Ryegrass is sold in blends that include several different
varieties.
You might want to consider creating planting beds, or increasing the
size of existing beds under the mesquite and grow shade
loving, blooming shrubs instead of trying to maintain a lawn under the
canopy of the trees.
Good luck to you!
Linda Guy, MG
jfleishans@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What lawn will grow in the shade of mature citrus trees?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:34:35 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:34:35 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Houseplant or Fungus Gnats
I just sent the following to a fellow sufferer! The approach is a soil drench, vs foliar spray, since that is where the pests are. The drench attacks the larval stage, hence the need to repeat monthly until the problem is rectified. The drench doesn't usually impact the adult stage. Here's the message I just posted:
These are usually in the soil of your houseplants and are most visible
after they emerge from just watered soil. A fellow MG has suggested the
following in previous responses:
Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of:
1 quart warm water
2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap
Drench the soil without wetting the foliage
This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem
Another mixture is
1 quart warm water
1 teaspoon liquid household bleach
The procedure is the same for both.
I have used a solution designed for these gnats containing Bt, which
attacks the larval stage of the pest [as opposed to the adult]. I have
had complete success, but it required 3 drenchings, since the adults
were not impacted and continued to reproduce until the end of their
lifecycle.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
joneszng4moore@msn.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I believe I have gnats living and breeding in my indoor as well as outdoor plants at my apt. They are sucking the life out of most of my plants. Unfortunately, a manuer blended with soil was added to nourish. I think that what did the trick. I have tried pesticides, soapy water, and a slight mixture of bleach on water both sprayed as well as watering the plants. I also have an herb garden on a wall mounted planter. I like to do everything possible to be environmentally safe but this is really irking me. Please help.
> Thanks
> Frustrated novice gardener
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:40:07 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:40:07 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Split Tomatoes
In my experience, this is usually a result of uneven watering practices. Do
not allow the ground to dry out completely between waterings. You can take a
look at other tomato problems via our website index at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/index.htm#t
Another place to consult is the June section of our monthly Timely Tips
segment at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/june.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
GEBarlow@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Why did my tomatoes split open on the vine, sometimes before they ripened?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:55:13 -0700
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:55:13 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Whiteflies
Here are some recommendations from an older, archived response to the whitefly question. Perhaps one of these recommendations will
work for you:
The University of Arizona recommends the following best management practices
for homeowners dealing with whiteflies:
* Grow resistant plants, native species seem to have a higher tolerance
* Delay planting fall crops & annuals until the whitefly population has
declined with the cool weather
* Protect plants from stress by planting in an appropriate location, and
managing irrigation and fertilization properly. Plants under stress are
much more vulnerable.
* Encourage beneficial insects which feed on whiteflys by minimizing the use
of insecticides. Lacewing, predatory flies, small lady bugs, and big-eyed
bugs all feed on whiteflies.
* Use polyethylene floating row covers to exclude whiteflies from garden=
beds
* When necessary, use a soap spray to thoroughly coat the leaves, especially
the underside. 1 tsp liquid detergent/gallon of water. Dawn =AE dish
washing soap has worked well in trials. DO NOT USE a citrus based detergent
which may burn the plants. Avoid spraying the plant during the heat of the
day. If the plant seems to tolerate the low dose, you may want to gradually
increase the dosage up to 2 TBSP/gallon. Repeat every three to four days as
needed.
* Hang on till October, whitefly populations decline as the weather cools.
Fortunately, we are seeing less of these pests than in the past!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
>
From la_crisis@hotmail.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:05:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 15:05:34 -0700 (MST)
From: la_crisis@hotmail.com la_crisis@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
When I asked my father, Joe Velazquez, this
question he hemmed and hawed and said, "Well,
...could be... could be..." Then he gave me
this address and said someone smarter than he
would have to answer it. I seriously doubt
that anyone could be smarter than my dad, but
here goes.
I have two agaves that are about four years
old and two others that that were pups of the
original two. The pups grow in the shade of
the house and the parents grow in the sun.
All are sturdy and growing, but the parents
are getting to look rather yellowish. The
younger plants are a strong green. Could this
be from the heat of the sun or might it indicate
some problem that I maybe could alleviate?
I have never fed the poor things except for
the addition of bagged mulch as a soil amend-
ment when the bed was prepared lo so many
years ago. The parents also get roof runoff
on the rare occasion of a shower. They have
a southern exposure. These are the first
plants that have actually responded to my
quasi-care, so I don't want to mess up caring
for them.
Thanks for your help.
Chris Diaz
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:51 EDT
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:51 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Majestic Palm
Hi,
No, I never did find another name for this palm or any information giving a
name of a palm by this name in my references. This is one of the problems of
common names for plants.
The Maricopa County Extension office 4341 East Broadway in Phoenix has a
number of fliers on palm trees. One is called Arizona Landscape Palms #8841
which has diagrams and information on most of the common palms you find in
the valley. It also gives some information on care of palms.
You might try http://ag.arizona.edu/maricoa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm to see
if any pubs on line are on the care of palms.
I'll post this on the arid_gardener again to see if anyone has additional
information about a palm of this name.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/8/00 6:14:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Hailley72 writes:
<< Subj: Majestic Palm
Date: 6/8/00 6:14:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: Hailley72
To: JeanSciFi
Hi, I got you email by looking up Majestic Palm tree. You were asking if it
had a different name for it. I was wandering what you found out. I have one
and want to learn more on the care of it, so I don't kill it. If you could
email me back I would greatly appreciate it.
Hailley72@aol.com >>
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:53 EDT
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:53 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Care of Citrus
Hi,
I agree with Ursula when she said the leaf curl on your citrus was probably
due to thrip damage. Unfortunately the home gardener has little protection
against these insects. The damage usually occurs in the bud stage of the
flower or leaf. Commercial growers have insecticides but they are not
available for the home gardens.
You didn't mention the age of your citrus trees so it is hard to give
specific information about watering. My citrus trees are young so I water
ever 7 days to a depth of at least 3 feet in the summer. I use a metal
(rebar) probe to check how deep the water penetrates. The probe goes down
easily until it gets to dry soil.
You have to be careful that you don't over fertilize. The amount depends on
the age and size of your trees. Fertilizing is usually done about three
times a year (Jan-Feb), (April-May) and (August-Sept). You will find
fertilizers at nurseries specifically for citrus. During the first year
after transplanting no fertilizer is normally used.
The Maricopa County Extension Office has several bulletins on the care of
Citrus. It is located at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, AZ. You might be
interested in the Fact Sheet called MC 17 Irrigation Needs of Citrus and MC91
called Fertilizing Citrus Chart. You can get them thru the mail but there is
a charge.
Hope this helps.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/12/00 3:09:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time, CCcmb5@aol.com
writes:
<< Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Date: 6/12/00 3:09:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: CCcmb5@aol.com
Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
arid_gardener
My question is regarding my citrus trees. I recently purchased a home that
has 6 citrus trees. 3 lemon, 3 orange. The landscaping in this yard had been
neglected for nearly 10 months. 2 of my 3 orange trees seem to be doing
poorly. The leaves are still quite green but curl a bunch. From a distance
the entire tree appears a lime green color not dark green. Could the curling
leaves mean not enough water? A if so, how muchb do I water? Do the trees
need to be fertilized? Is this the correct time of year to fertilize or does
it even matter? Thank you for your response.
Corey C.
>>
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:55 EDT
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 21:54:55 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] texas root rot
Hi,
First of all I'd make sure that your trouble is really Texas Root Rot and not
a problem like over watering or salt build up. You'd see rapid wilt and
death of the plant with dead or dying foliage remaining attached. The
rapidity of the death is really important. I killed a eucalyptus with
improper irrigation and thought it was Texas Root Rot, it looked like it but
the death happened too slowly.
I believe anywhere cotton has been grown there is Texas Root Rot fungi in
the soil. There are no chemical controls for this fungi. It comes on when
conditions are warm, moist and humid, such as during periods of summer rain.
The plant shows symptoms similar to drought because a large portion of the
root system has been destroyed. Unfortunately by the time you see the
symptoms the root system is damaged to such an extent that the plant usually
dies. Sounds like someone gave you the right advise about the treatment but
it is usually started too late.
Tree's do vary in their ability to resist this disease. I know over watering
in hot weather tends to worsen the odds for a tree that is susceptible. I
believe all monocots are not affect by this disease so you could plant some
kind of palm tree. I love my Mediterranean fan palm but it will never give
me much in the way of shade.
Sometimes when you find descriptions of trees you are interested in you will
find a section about it's known problems. Its susceptibility to root rot is
usually given. The information I have is so scattered I'd have difficulty in
pulling it together to give you recommendations.
You might contact a certified arborist for information on what trees are best
for your situation.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/12/00 6:31:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dgbook@uswest.net writes:
<< Subj: [
] texas root rot
Date: 6/12/00 6:31:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: dgbook@uswest.net (Diane G. Book)
Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Arid gardener server)
arid_gardener
I have lost four trees this year alone to Texas root rot. Our yard was
planted professionally twelve years ago. Over the 12 years we have lost
3 oleanders, 2 Carolina cherry trees, an Aleppo pine, 2 Bottle trees,
and an orange tree. We still have two pine trees and a microtheca
eucalyptus and assorted shrubs living, which we would very much like to
keep that way. The pine trees are near lawns which we have begun to
fertilize with manure etc. hoping it would help the trees as well as the
grass.
This is so very frustrating. What are we doing wrong? Most of the dead
plants were surrounded by rock and were drip watered.
When the first deaths occured we did the manure, ammonium sulfate, soil
sulfur thing as soon as we noticed the plants were in trouble. It
apparently was not soon enough because they all died anyway.
The most recent death is a bottle tree which shaded the driveway and we
would really like to plant another tree. Do you have any suggestions
for one which is resistant to this disease, can be planted next to a
concrete driveway and is not too much of a litter maker?
How can I find on the net the bulletin(#8734) you mentioned? I've tried
and had no luck--sort of like my other problem.
Thanks for any help, Diane the Discouraged Desert Gardener
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
Archives -
>>
From Cath37@aol.com Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:15:30 EDT
Date: Thu, 15 Jun 2000 22:15:30 EDT
From: Cath37@aol.com Cath37@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Lawn problems
We have a Bermuda hybrid lawn; in the winter we grow rye grass. The lawn has
been in place for three years, and we have had a problem growing a thick even
cover for the last year or more. The grass is very patchy and has dry spots;
especially if we are gone for a week or more. We have automatic sprinklers
that are set for 10 minutes every other day. We have experimented with more
water, less water, fertilizer-you name it. Any suggestions to try something
different would be gratefully appreciated.
Catherine Trainor
From JFLEISHANS@aol.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 11:33:25 EDT
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 11:33:25 EDT
From: JFLEISHANS@aol.com JFLEISHANS@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Lawn Options for Shade
Thanks for your reply--the information helped.
JOHN
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:54:24 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 09:54:24 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Black Bird Problems
I've heard of flocks of these roosting in an area and being quite the
distraction until such time as they choose to move on. I've no good
ideas for you, but would like to suggest you phone the Game and Fish
Department [602-942-3000] which used to have a department that helped
homeowners with advice on all sorts of wildlife problems. USDA has a
wildlife conflict phone number, but I'm not sure they deal with birds
[870-2081]. USDA's Animal Control/Migratory Birds is at the same phone
number.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
julia_cleary@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Black birds that are obnoxious and extremely
> dominate, constantly driving other birds away,
> have taken over my yard, trees, garden.
> Their droppings are a never ending heavy mess.
> How can I effectivly deter them. I have tried
> scarecrows and fake owl- properly used, these
> birds quickly still become "wise" to them.
> I have mature oleanders and mulberry and
> shamel ash (sp?) trees they love congragating
> in. Thanks for any suggestions.
> trees
> they love congragating in.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:08:03 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:08:03 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Patio Shade Tree
Palo Breas are amongst the smaller palos, but my personal experience is that they grow deeply drooping, graceful branches that can mean more than usual maintenance in an area that is trafficked. There are small acacias [farnesiana and smallii] whose summer growth habit is similar. Both of these trees will leave light dustings of leaves, particularly in winter. Other options are desert fern [lysiloma thornberi], cascalote [caesalpinia cacalaco] and desert willow [chilopsis linearis].
I'm concerned about the tree's potential to undo your patio with its roots over time, however. I should think a very large container with a dwarf fruit or citrus tree, or ornamental fig would provide you with fast shade at considerably less expense.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Joanne.ackerman@asu.edu wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a cement patio that is 30' by 15' and I want to cut a hole in the middle and plant a tree that will grow quickly and give me shade. Someone suggested the Palo Verde Brea. I had a comment from someone else saying that I have to make sure to create a big enough area to plant the tree or I will have problems. They didn't mention what kind of problems. I am hoping to put tile on top of the cement patio, but of course I don't want the tree to start cracking the cement. HELP!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:28:34 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:28:34 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Mexican primrose
I'm not sure what to suggest, since this is a very vigorous grower to the
point of being invasive. Perhaps a source of partial shade that was there
before was eliminated? Or summertime supplemental watering pattern was
changed? My experience is that the color is always best in the morning,
looking washed out later in the day.
I do know that if they have been growing well for a few years, they can start
to get rangy and overgrown, benefitting from a good shearing, all the way to
the ground. Of course, this is not the time to be doing this! Look for flea
beetle infestations if they really start to look tattered
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/flea-btl.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Linda
Sue Bass wrote:
> This is an older question that I can't seem to find an
> answer for. Do you happen to have any idea why the color
> would be fading on the Mexican Primroses?
>
> Sue
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: mexican primrose
> Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:09:51 EDT
> From: R2BESHON@aol.com
> To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
>
> my primrose have been in the ground for three years. the first and second
> year they were deep pink, however this year the color had faded alot. is
> there something i can do to bring back the vivid pink.
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:37:46 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:37:46 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] California Pepper
I'm sorry to repeat, if someone already responded. We have a summary of Texas Root Rot at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm
The outlook isn't encouraging, but I've read that heavy applications of compost and mulch might crowd out the fungus in the soil. However, this wouldn't be in time to save the tree. It would be a precautionary measure prior to replacing the pepper with a tree that is less susceptible to TRR.
However, it could simply be a case of thrip infestation, as pepper trees are also susceptible to citrus thrips. This is only cosmetic damage, and is complete by the time you've noticed it. Management practices are discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
knoops@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a 6 year old california pepper tree in the back yard. It was a boxed tree and is quite large now. For the past 3 weeks the tips of the branches have been dying and leaves are falling off. It looks very sparse. Is there anything we can do to save it. We have 2 smaller pepper trees on either side, will they go too? We are thinking texas root rot and are treating with soil sulfur but we are not sure how often we can apply it. We would love some advise.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:41:09 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:41:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Mulberry Tree Leaf Damage
We have a monthly Timely Tips segment, within which we discuss potential plant problems for the particular time of year. You've not listed enough info
for a good diagnosis, so check out the list of potential issues at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/june.htm
If you are still uncertain after evaluating this section, write back.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
cindyl_t@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a fruitless mulberry tree that is one year old. The leaves are curling inward and we don't know what to do for it. Can you please help us?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:45:24 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:45:24 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Oleander Decline
We would need more information on your care practices and any
exceptional activity that has happened in the area, but in the meantime,
you might review our summary on a gall that attacks oleander at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/olndr-gl.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
jyoung2@satx.rr.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My oleander bush is beginning to turn yellow
> and seems to be dying in certain areas. what if anything, can i do?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:48:29 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:48:29 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Tomato Faailure to Thrive
It could be root know nematode or poor watering practices [I wouldn't let the ground dry out completely in the vegetable patch]. Check our Timely Tips
section of the website for June. It has lots of other info on diagnosing plant problems experienced during this month of the year.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/june.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ohmom@mwaz.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What causes the leaves on my Celebrity tomato plant to curl up. The plant is in partial sun, gets watered when dry, but no blossoms and leaves curl?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:52:41 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:52:41 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea in San Juaquim Valley
Your best source will be your own county cooperative extension office, whose phone number you will find
in the county government pages of the phone book.
Our soil here is mostly dense, alkaline clay; limited rainfall; some potential for winter frost,
depending on exposure; you get the idea. We encourage the profuse blooming of the colorful bracts by
withholding water [once extablished] and fertilizer. If there is winter freezing, we wait until all
danger of frost has passed before pruning away the damaged branches.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Phoenix, AZ
hprime@webtv.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I'm trying to find out the do's and dont's of planting Bougainvillea in the San Juaquin valley, Cal.
> Full sun summer with winter frosts.
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From mzvision@aol.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:01:48 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 10:01:48 -0700 (MST)
From: mzvision@aol.com mzvision@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We are moving into a new house in an area which was, prior to building, desert. Is there anything special I need to do to the soil before I plant grass?
From timber@theriver.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:56:31 -0700
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:56:31 -0700
From: Micha & Dennis timber@theriver.com
Subject: [AG] corn in Tonto
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFD792.4AFF36E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We live in Tonto Basin, near Roosevelt Lake. We planted four 50 foot =
rows of corn. (Short variety). We are harvesting as the silk is brown =
and dry. Most of the ears are not filled in with kernels. Is this a =
watering or pollination problem, or something else?-Micha
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFD792.4AFF36E0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We live in Tonto Basin, near Roosevelt =
Lake. We=20
planted four 50 foot rows of corn. (Short variety). We are harvesting as =
the=20
silk is brown and dry. Most of the ears are not filled in with kernels. =
Is this=20
a watering or pollination problem, or something=20
else?-Micha
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFD792.4AFF36E0--
From timber@theriver.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:49:33 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 12:49:33 -0700 (MST)
From: timber@theriver.com timber@theriver.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We live in Tonto Basin near Roosevelt Lake. We planted 4 rows of corn, each 50 feet long. We are harvesting, as the silk is brown and dry. Most of the ears are missing many kernals. Is this a pollination problem or watering problem or something else. What should we be fertilizing corn with? Thanks, Micha
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:43:27 EDT
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:43:27 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Lawn problems
Catherine,There are several things that could be causing the unhealthy
condition of your turf.
You might not be getting a uniform amount of water to your turf. After
you have irrigated, try inserting a screwdriver with at least a 6 inch shank
into the soil in several places particularly in the spots where the grass is
dying. If the driver does not go to 6 inches or close, then you need to have
some corrections done to your irrigation system.
If the dead spots of grass are circular in shape and are increasing in
size, I would look for Pearl Scale by taking a shove of dirt at the edge of a
dead spot and look for the small 1/8 inch diameter pearls. If you find them
then you have one answer.
If you haven't had your lawn dethatched since it was installed, and the
thatch buildup is more than 1/2 inch, It is time to dethatch your lawn.
As for fertilization, during the summer you should be applying one pound
of actual nitrogen each month to each 1000 square feet of lawn area. If you
happen to be using a fertilizer with a formula of 21-0-0 then you would
apply 5 pounds of fertilizer.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From hmorrow@juno.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:46:41 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:46:41 -0700 (MST)
From: hmorrow@juno.com hmorrow@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
For about the past three years most of the nectarines on my tree have had a secretion on them that looks like sugar crystals. Do you know what it is and what I can do to prevent this next year? Thank you.
From fscapellit@mindspring.com Fri, 16 Jun 2000 20:37:51 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 20:37:51 -0700 (MST)
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have a pool on the west side of our yard surrounded by planting area. Flowering plants are out of the question since they litter the pool. Can you suggest what to plant other than succulents or cacti? Am I asking too much?
Thank you.
From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 09:35:40 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 09:35:40 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Poolside Landscaping
You can view our on-line brochure - AZ1058 Plants for Poolside Landscapes at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals
You should see many fine options here.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a pool on the west side of our yard surrounded by planting area. Flowering plants are out of the question since they litter the pool. Can you suggest what to plant other than succulents or cacti? Am I asking too much?
>
> Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From Youngdud@aol.com Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:14:01 EDT
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 13:14:01 EDT
From: Youngdud@aol.com Youngdud@aol.com
Subject: [AG] mailing list removal
how do I get my address removed from your e-mail mailing list?
Dudley Young
From molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat, 17 Jun 2000 17:13:28 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 17:13:28 -0700
From: Mary Olsen molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Texas root rot bulletin
For Texas Root Rot:
Please note that the new bulletin about Texas (cotton) root rot can be
found at the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs.
Then, go to this address then type in your interest such as texas or cotton
root rot; you can accesss the publication as a pdf file in Adobe Acrobat
and print it out; if you do not have this capability, let me know and I
will send a copy.
The bulletin describes the disease and lists some susceptible and resistant
plants. Be sure that any diagnosis is done by some one experienced.
Mary Olsen
Extension Plant Pathologist
Dr. Mary Olsen
Associate Extension Specialist
Dept. of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204
University of Arizona
Tucson, AZ 85721
phone 520-626-2681
email molsen@ag.arizona.edu
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:08:47 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:08:47 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] California Pepper
There is an additional, more detailed reference piece on Texas or cotton
root rot in the U of A's College of Agriculture, publications. It's at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/diseases/az1150.pdf
If you want to search this publication list, go to
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs You could also find more info on thrips here.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
knoops@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a 6 year old california pepper tree in the back yard. It was a boxed tree and is quite large now. For the past 3 weeks the tips of the branches have been dying and leaves are falling off. It looks very sparse. Is there anything we can do to save it. We have 2 smaller pepper trees on either side, will they go too? We are thinking texas root rot and are treating with soil sulfur but we are not sure how often we can apply it. We would love some advise.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:29:17 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:29:17 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Loss of Tomato Blossoms
It seems you received your answer already in Wednesday's garden section of the AZ Republic!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
pward@ympo.org wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am quite familiar with gardening problems (Master Gardner) in the Yuma area, however, my friend is experiencing a problem I've never seen or heard of. She has four beautiful tomato plants, all different varieties. They have been producing very nice blooms, but without exception, each bloom has fallen off. What is very strange is that the break happens about a quarter inch down the stem from the blossom. Sometimes they have just fallen off, other times they are dangling, and other times you can actually see a ring about the stem and when you touch the blossom, they just snap off at that ring. I've never seen anything like this. Anyone know what could be happening?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:32:51 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:32:51 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Chili Pepper Decline
It is difficult to diagnose your problem without information on your cultural
practices. In my personal experience, my peppers and tomatoes like afternoon
shade [provided by adjacent corn stalks or trees, or with shade cloth] this
time of year. They don't respond well to intermittent watering that allows the
soil to dry out, preferring instead a more steady output. I would like to
recommend that you review the relevant section on plant problems in the June
segment of our Timely Tips section of the website. It's located at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
You might get some additional insight on your chili's decline.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
snlangendorf@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Chili Tepin Wilt - healthy plants are suddenly wilting. Leaves are curled.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lnovack@prodigy.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 17:02:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 17:02:56 -0700 (MST)
From: lnovack@prodigy.net lnovack@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have read that I need a special fertilizer for my Queen Palms, but I cannot find it in my area which is Queen Creek, AZ.
Thank you
Lorraine Novack
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:37:09 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:37:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] New Lawn Irrigation
You can peruse the Lawn Chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
New seedings and spriggings require intensive irrigation to ensure successful establishment. Seedings require light and frequent watering to ensure
that the seed and surface of the soil are constantly moist. Plan to keep the soil moist for up to 30 days following planting. During hot days this
may necessitate 3 or 4 light waterings during the day to provide adequate moisture for rapid and successful germination. If the soil dries out during
the germination process, the seedling is likely to die. Areas sodded and plugged also require intensive irrigation. However, frequent light watering
is only required until the sod or plug is rooted. Once sod or plugs are rooted, irrigate every second or third day.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
rcdemark@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> After Burmuda Grass seed has sprouted and come thru the ground how long should the ground be kept moist? Mine is thru the ground about 1/2 inch.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:46:03 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:46:03 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Orange Dog Caterpillar
The only reference material I could find was in the Master Gardener Entomology Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/citrus.html Sorry I wasn't of more assistance.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County, AZ
m.melkonian@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was wondering if you can tell me about the life cycle of the orangedog caterpillar that becomes the Giant Swallowtail butterfly. I know they are not largely predated upon because of the unpleasant odor they emit. However, I don't know how long (approximately) it is from larvae to butterfly. Once they have formed a chrysalis how long before the butterfly emerges? I have seen these caterpillars at various stages of their development, but recently the three we were tracking just disappeared(overnight). We could not find a chrysalis nor did we see any emerging butterflies. I would appreciate any information you could provide about their life cycle, length of each stage, etc. We live in Florida and we find them on our citrus trees.
> Sincerely,
> Sandi
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:48:43 -0700
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 18:48:43 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Hibiscus as Hedge In Florida
I just returned from two weeks of vacation in central Florida and
Sanibel/Captiva Islands. I saw many wonderful hibiscus specimens, which I don't
grow here in Phoenix. I don't see any reason they wouldn't be a beautiful
hedge, as long as the proper variety was selected. To get the best information,
why don't you contact our counterparts at your own county cooperative extension
office. You can find the phone number in the government listings of the local
phone directory.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County, AZ
lpmooney@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do you think a hibiscus trees would look for a private fence in Florida
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From race3kids@aol.com Sat, 17 Jun 2000 20:50:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 17 Jun 2000 20:50:43 -0700 (MST)
From: race3kids@aol.com race3kids@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Planted three raspberry bushes in a great location and did great for about a month and the other day went to check on them and the leaves had turned light brown and just a few days before they were green with small berries, what do i do? should i be treating them, currently i don't do anything, they are in great soil, please advise?
From mike-mad@home.com Sun, 18 Jun 2000 05:05:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 05:05:43 -0700 (MST)
From: mike-mad@home.com mike-mad@home.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
A couple of weeks ago, every plant in my garden (including annuals, established shrubs, and perennials) appeared to have died overnight. All of the leaves were crisp, curled and brown. I cut off all the dead leaves and new growth appeared. I watched the garden everyday and it looked like it was making a comeback. Today I went out and everything is dead again. This has happened four times in the last year. There is no warning and it happens to EVERY PLANT overnight.
From tblanton@concentric.com Sun, 18 Jun 2000 10:00:12 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 10:00:12 -0700 (MST)
From: tblanton@concentric.com tblanton@concentric.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
thank you for this site. i want to convert my grass
front yard into desert. what do i do? i have some shrubs
along the house and one palm tree, but i have 49 X 25 sq.ft
of bermeuda grass. do i chemically kill it, do i have someone
dig it out before the rock, do i use plastic
as a barrier to prevent weeds? can you help me. thanx, tom blanton
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:01:33 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:01:33 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Converting lawn to desert landscape
The time to begin to remove bermuda grass is now, during its active
growing season. Please know that this is a major project. Bermuda
grass will not go down willingly or without a fight! :>). I'd like to
refer you to a couple of questions and answers in our archives about
this subject. To view these, go to
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-January/000359.html.
The first message is from fellow Master Gardener, Linda Guy regarding
how she converted an area to a garden. If you visit the next message
(you will see a prompt that reads "Next Message" and it will be entitled
Replacing/Removing Bermuda Grass. These two messages may give you some
ideas as to the hows and what is involved. The traditional method is to
chemically kill the grass using an herbicide like Roundup, which takes a
lot of persistance. You also have to be sure to remove all of the
rhizomes or it will come back. Feel free to browse through the
archives, this is a common question.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
tblanton@concentric.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> thank you for this site. i want to convert my grass
> front yard into desert. what do i do? i have some shrubs
> along the house and one palm tree, but i have 49 X 25 sq.ft
> of bermeuda grass. do i chemically kill it, do i have someone
> dig it out before the rock, do i use plastic
> as a barrier to prevent weeds? can you help me. thanx, tom blanton
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:11:48 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:11:48 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Raspberries
Raspberries are very difficult to grow here in the low desert. I'd like to refer you to some previous questions and answers in our archives regarding raspberries. You can view a good one at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0729.html For more, go to:
http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=raspberries&submit=Search
Blackberries seem to fare much better here.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
race3kids@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Planted three raspberry bushes in a great location and did great for about a month and the other day went to check on them and the leaves had turned light brown and just a few days before they were green with small berries, what do i do? should i be treating them, currently i don't do anything, they are in great soil, please advise?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 15:26:41 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 15:26:41 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Curled leaves on Tangerine Tree
I'd like to direct you to our Plant Pathology diagnostic key for Citrus. To view this, go to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/stone.html#citrus
I'm wondering if you aren't dealing with thrips. They are very tiny, light or dark brown and only 1/20 inch long. They can cause curling of leaves on citrus. Take a look at the diagnostic key and see if this fits, if so you will notice that on the key that the damage is cosmetic only. If this does not
fit your case, please let us know and we can dig further.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
mariannelandrin@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> One of our tangerine trees really looks bad. The leave are curled. Even the new growth. It receives the same amount of water as the other citrus trees and they seem to be doing fine. The were put in on the 9th of Feb. There is no apparent bug infestation. What should we be looking for or doing. Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:40:41 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:40:41 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Keeping Pond Clear
Your situation, a pond without plants or fish, is not one with which I am familiar. I would recommend that you speak to a pond professional, whom I suspect will recommend
the installation of a filter as well as a small aerator or some sort of cascade to provide water disturbance which will oxygenate your pond. I am familiar with The Lily
Pond in the Arcadia neighborhood [602-273-1805], whom I highly recommend and Paradise Ponds in Central Phoenix [602-667-6912], whose owner was trained by the principals at
The Lily Pond. Harpers and Bakers have a small selection of pond items, but I don't know how knowledgeable they are.
A planted water garden, with adequate oxygenating grasses/plants will need little care. This is because the plants will recycle that which would otherwise stimulate the
growth of algae which is, after all, also a plant. The plant life also pumps oxygen into the water. Water's ability to hold oxygen decreases as its temperature rises, a
key consideration for desert water features. Having plants gives you the added benefit of cooling the water from the shade that surface foliage provides.
My pond is maintained in this fashion, but it is not crystal clear. [I do not have a filter.] Rather it is a clear amber. I have fish as well as plants in the pond. I
periodically help the water's balance with a pond additive that controls any toxic nitrites and ammonias, leading to algae. It contains multiple strains of bacteria and is
not harmful to the fish, nor the birds that drink from it.
Hope that this helps.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Lydia.bell@dcranch.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> What can I add to a small back yard water pond to keep it clean and not be hazardous to birds, bunnies or squirrels. We do not have fish or plants in it. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:54:31 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:54:31 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Balckberries and Raspberries in Metro Phoenix
Raspberries do not grow in the Phoenix metro area, although I understand that some varieties of blackberries will. There is a very detailed study of various varieties of blackberries, conducted by one of the university's researachers in Yuma at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1051/az105111.html
In consulting George Brookbank's Desert Gardening, Fruits and Vegetables, he states that fruiting perennials that require two seasons to reach maturity isn't always easy. Barbara Pleasant, author of Warm Climate Gardening suggests that blackberries favor slightly acidic soil, so lots of organic material will be a must in our alkaline soils. I would suggest setting out your starts in the fall, or bare roots in January, to see if you have improved success.
I'm sorry I have no personal experiences to share with you. Have you consulted your favorite nursery?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
jessica.schepler@usa.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do you grow blackberries and raspberries here (mesa)? I didn't think they grew here at all, but recently I met someone with a bunch of blackberry bushes in his back yard. He gave me a start but it died as soon as I set it out, even after I hardened it off first -- and that was a couple of months ago before it had even hit 90 degrees. I just got three raspberry starts and plan to keep them inside in a bright window until it gets cooler outside. Have you ever heard of growing raspberries/blackberries here? If so, I would love some tips about where/how to plant them. (shade, only morning sun, etc)I can't find any tips online because everything that I have read says that they don't grow in this climate at all.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:59:11 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 18:59:11 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Corn Kernels not Producing
It sounds as if you had a lack of pollination. Planting corn in blocks rather than long rows so that the wind can do a good job of spreading the pollen sometimes helps. Home
gardeners sometimes tend to plant a long row or two.
You can help the pollination process further by shaking the tassels of one plant onto the silks of another. Another factor is that you planted your corn slightly late, and the
heat puts the plants under enough stress to cause a failure in pollen production.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
jessica.schepler@usa.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Help! My corn plants only made cobs three or four kernels high (the part of the cob nearest the tassles stayed tiny and the kernels did not develop), what am I doing wrong?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:02:13 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:02:13 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Rabbit Management
We have a great online publication on this topic at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm
It includes a link to plants that have little appeal to rabbits. Be
forewarned that if you do not use some sort of barrier [or keep
dogs/cats outdoors in a rural area] the rabbits may still eat foliage
that is said to be otherwise unappealing in years of extreme drought.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
loisl@prtel.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> help!! rabbits are in my yard eating my plants & flowers.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:06:27 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:06:27 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Bitter Cukes
We've had several similar questions lately. I apologize if yours was already answered. This is a typical phenomenon at this time of year. Cukes just don't do well in this heat, even with all the precautions you have taken, which were on target. George Brookbank, author of Desert Gardening, recommends armenians, which I have successfully grown into the heat
of the summer, as the variety that performs most reliably in our dry heat.
If your plants make it, it is possible they will resume quality production when cooler temps arrive. But by then, I'm planting the winter crops....The fun of desert gardening!!!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
bowlingaz@juno.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I planted Slicemaster F1 Hybrid Cucumbers in mid February. They were very tasty when they first began producing, but now are so bitter that they are inedible. What causes this and is there anything I can do. What a waste of beautiful cucs. I have them on an auto watering system and have put shade cloth over them when the temps got to triple digits.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:15:21 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:15:21 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Native Plant in Safford
Judy Mielke has a wonderful book called Native Plants for Southwestern
Landscapes. She includes good details related to elevation and climate
needs, as well as including wonderful photos of all plant material. You
should have no problem purchasing this book or finding it in your local
library. Other references are listed at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-plnt.htm
and some include online links for you to peruse.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County
mrs_apj@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I want to plant a native desert plant at a
> gravesite. The gravesite is located in
> Safford AZ. It would need to a low
> maintenance plant, with irregular watering
> and handle full sun. I know of many desert
> plants, but I also prefer native plants,
> like the Calliandra sp., but I need to know
> where I might be able to find small plantable
> for not a lot of money. Any ideas.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:18:38 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:18:38 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Tomato Fruiting Problems
Sounds like you have blossom end rot, a phenomenon caused by irregular watering. Check out our discussion at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm
I found this in the plant diagnosis section of the June segment of our Timely Tips page at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm You will find this a very handy resource.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
raykohout@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am growing a tomato plant in a large pot on my patio. When the tomatoes turn red, the bottom half remains white. They are also as hard as a rock.
>
> What am I doing wrong?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:22:01 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:22:01 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Growing Guavas
I believe that there are special needs for this subtropical tree. I would recommend contacting the
Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers Association. They even maintain a section at the
demonstration gardens at the Cooperative Extension Office. The list of local garden clubs, including a
link to this one, is at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ldrate@pcds.org wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Is it possible to grow guava trees in the NE Valley? If so, what are the requirements for survival?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:26:09 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 19:26:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Corn in Tonto
--------------1AED4399BEF8AF35F324251D
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
This is a copy of an answer I just sent to someone else with the same
problem.
"It sounds as if you had a lack of pollination. Planting corn in blocks
rather than long rows so that the wind can do a good job of spreading
the pollen sometimes helps. Home gardeners sometimes tend to plant a
long row or two, instad of a mass grouping.
You can help the pollination process further by shaking the tassels of
one plant onto the silks of another. Another factor could be that you
planted your corn slightly late, and the heat put the plants under
enough stress to cause a failure in pollen production."
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Micha & Dennis wrote:
> We live in Tonto Basin, near Roosevelt Lake. We planted four 50 foot
> rows of corn. (Short variety). We are harvesting as the silk is brown
> and dry. Most of the ears are not filled in with kernels. Is this a
> watering or pollination problem, or something else?-Micha
--------------1AED4399BEF8AF35F324251D
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
This is a copy of an answer I just sent to someone else with the same problem.
"It sounds as if you had a lack of pollination. Planting corn in blocks
rather than long rows so that the wind can do a good job of spreading the
pollen sometimes helps. Home gardeners sometimes tend to plant a long row
or two, instad of a mass grouping.
You can help the pollination process further by shaking the tassels
of one plant onto the silks of another. Another factor could be that
you planted your corn slightly late, and the heat put the plants under
enough stress to cause a failure in pollen production."
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Micha & Dennis wrote:
We
live in Tonto Basin, near Roosevelt Lake. We planted four 50 foot rows
of corn. (Short variety). We are harvesting as the silk is brown and dry.
Most of the ears are not filled in with kernels. Is this a watering or
pollination problem, or something else?-Micha
--------------1AED4399BEF8AF35F324251D--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 18 Jun 2000 23:37:11 EDT
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 23:37:11 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Palm tree fertilizer
Lorraine, Do you have a Home Depot in Queen Creek. They sell a palm tree
fertilizer. Try one of the Tree nurseries in Queen Creek, I was there
recently and saw Fertilizer on the shelf. Schneff was the name of one of the
nurseries.
Good luck.
Rod
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:31:56 -0700
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 21:31:56 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Calling All Gardeners!
Have you ever read through some of the gardening questions
on the listserve and recognized a problem you have faced in
the past? Have you ever said to yourself, "MMMM, been
through THAT before!". Your experiences are valuable to all
of us, your fellow gardeners. We would like to invite you
to share things that have worked for you. Recognize the
description of that insect that is wreaking havoc in
someone's garden? Please feel free to share your
knowledge! Have you read someone's lament about problems
with their veggies and had a "been there, done that"
experience? Please share a remedy that worked for you! We
would LOVE to hear from you!
Just some very simple ground rules, 1) When you reply to the
person posting the question, please "cc"
arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu so your reply will be stored in
the archives so it can be used again by some soul in need.
2) Please be sure to change the subject line to reflect what
the subject is.
We can really use your help, please join us!
Sue Bass
Listserve Manager
From dougkate@uswest.net Sun, 18 Jun 2000 17:53:28 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 17:53:28 -0700 (MST)
From: dougkate@uswest.net dougkate@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Why are all of my tomato and pepper
plants turning yellow, drying up and loosing all
the foligage from the bottom up. The tops look ok and
the taller the plants get the more the dead
part creeps up. It ends up having some, not very
good looking fruit, which matures prematurely
The peppers just look wilted all the time.
I f
From asidneylee@hotmail.com Sun, 18 Jun 2000 20:16:42 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 20:16:42 -0700 (MST)
From: asidneylee@hotmail.com asidneylee@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
HELP!
I recently purchased a home which has 5 large orange trees which stand approximately 20 feet tall. They don't look very healthy but do seem to produce a lot of fruit. I would not be surprised if they were never pruned. How and when do I prune them to start new growth? I want to prune them way back, what time of year is safe to do this? What type of care should I give them after pruning? Any other help along these lines would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
From schaudhr@sedona.ch.intel.com Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:50:26 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:50:26 -0700 (MST)
From: schaudhr@sedona.ch.intel.com schaudhr@sedona.ch.intel.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I want to Know what is the right watering schedule for Citrus trees( in Chandler, AZ). I tried drip irrigation ( 3 times a week ). Now I am hand watering them, 3 times a week. But my citrus trees are not doing well at all. THere are very few leaves, most of which are yellow. Leaves don't look healthy at all.
Thx,
-shailesh
From lxs@deainc.com Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:55:44 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:55:44 -0700 (MST)
From: lxs@deainc.com lxs@deainc.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am researching a non-toxic, environmentally friendly herbicide to use in a large scale urban setting. Do you have any suggestions?
From mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:56:50 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:56:50 -0700
From: Marikelly Block mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] [Fwd: I would like to have a pineapple plant for my home]
--=====================_11510595==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Can someone on the listserv answer this e-mail. Send me a carbon copy if you
are able to respond. So that I know that he received some response.
Thank you
Kelly
>
> Delivered-To: fixup-mblock@ag.arizona.edu@fixme
> Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:02:20 -0700
> From: David Martinez
> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U)
> X-Accept-Language: en,pdf
> To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> Subject: [Fwd: I would like to have a pineapple plant for my home]
>
> I got this email from a visitor from our website.
>
>
> John Rigter wrote:
>>
>> I would like to know how I can start a pineapple plant from a store bought
>> pineapple. I have heard that it can be done. I have many other house
plants
>> that I have started from store bought fruits and vegies. Like oranges from
>> seed, sreetpotatos frome an old oen that has sprouted so on. Could you help
>> me? I have a very ripe pineaple in my kitchen now and before I cut it
wrong
>> Iwould like to know. Thank you for your time. I am just a house plant
>> lover. P.S. I live in Montana and must have most all my plants indoors.
>
>
> --
> David Martinez
> dmartine@engr.arizona.edu
> The University of Arizona
>
> Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (AG.Arizona.EDU [128.196.42.70])
> by intermix.engr.arizona.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA515685
> for ; Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:12:05 -0700 (MST)
> Received: from missouri.mcn.net (missouri.mcn.net [204.212.170.3])
> by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id NAA11000
> for ; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:57:20 -0700 (MST)
> Received: from luvz2carv (pm2a-024.bozeman.mcn.net [63.74.221.24])
> by missouri.mcn.net (8.9.0/8.9.0) with SMTP id OAA15929
> for ; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:57:19 -0600 (MDT)
> Message-ID: <000801bfd968$47947100$18dd4a3f@mcn.net>
> From: "John Rigter"
> To:
> Subject: I would like to have a pineapple plant for my home
> Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 15:00:46 -0600
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFD935.FBD50900"
> X-Priority: 3
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200
> X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200
> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
>
> I would like to know how I can start a pineapple plant from a store bought
> pineapple. I have heard that it can be done. I have many other house plants
> that I have started from store bought fruits and vegies. Like oranges from
> seed, sreetpotatos frome an old oen that has sprouted so on. Could you help
> me? I have a very ripe pineaple in my kitchen now and before I cut it wrong
> Iwould like to know. Thank you for your time. I am just a house plant
> lover. P.S. I live in Montana and must have most all my plants indoors.
****************************
Marikelly Block
Applications Systems Analyst Senior
Cooperative Extension
University of Arizona
301 Forbes Bldg.
Tucson, AZ 85721
520-626-9174
mblock@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_11510595==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Can someone on the listserv answer this e-mail. Send me a carbon copy if
you are able to respond. So that I know that he received some
response.
Thank you
Kelly
Delivered-To:
fixup-mblock@ag.arizona.edu@fixme
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:02:20 -0700
From: David Martinez
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en,pdf
To: mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Fwd: I would like to have a pineapple plant for my home]
I got this email from a visitor from our website.
John Rigter wrote:
I would like to know how I can
start a pineapple plant from a store bought pineapple. I have heard
that it can be done. I have many other house plants that I have started
from store bought fruits and vegies. Like oranges from seed, sreetpotatos
frome an old oen that has sprouted so on. Could you help me? I have
a very ripe pineaple in my kitchen now and before I cut it wrong Iwould
like to know. Thank you for your time. I am just a house
plant lover. P.S. I live in Montana and must have most all my
plants indoors.
--
David Martinez
dmartine@engr.arizona.edu
The University of Arizona
Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (AG.Arizona.EDU [128.196.42.70])
by intermix.engr.arizona.edu (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA515685
for ; Mon, 19 Jun 2000 09:12:05 -0700 (MST)
Received: from missouri.mcn.net (missouri.mcn.net [204.212.170.3])
by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id NAA11000
for ; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 13:57:20 -0700 (MST)
Received: from luvz2carv (pm2a-024.bozeman.mcn.net [63.74.221.24])
by missouri.mcn.net (8.9.0/8.9.0) with SMTP id OAA15929
for ; Sun, 18 Jun 2000 14:57:19 -0600 (MDT)
Message-ID: <000801bfd968$47947100$18dd4a3f@mcn.net>
From: "John Rigter"
To:
Subject: I would like to have a pineapple plant for my home
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2000 15:00:46 -0600
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0005_01BFD935.FBD50900"
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
I would like to know how I can start a
pineapple plant from a store bought pineapple. I have heard that it
can be done. I have many other house plants that I have started from
store bought fruits and vegies. Like oranges from seed, sreetpotatos
frome an old oen that has sprouted so on. Could you help me? I have
a very ripe pineaple in my kitchen now and before I cut it wrong Iwould
like to know. Thank you for your time. I am just a house
plant lover. P.S. I live in Montana and must have most all my
plants indoors.
****************************
Marikelly Block
Applications Systems Analyst Senior
Cooperative Extension
University of Arizona
301 Forbes Bldg.
Tucson, AZ 85721
520-626-9174
mblock@ag.arizona.edu
--=====================_11510595==_.ALT--
From cablebeach@netscape.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:55:32 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 10:55:32 -0700 (MST)
From: cablebeach@netscape.net cablebeach@netscape.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I would like to know how to start a mesqite tree from seed.
From alawns@gte.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:01:38 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 12:01:38 -0700 (MST)
From: alawns@gte.net alawns@gte.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
i live in burbank ca when is it the best
time to prune grapes .
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:36:57 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 13:36:57 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Growing Mesquite Tree from Seed
Here is a response to a similar question that I located in our
archives:
Most seeds get a better start if they are scarified in some
way. In the wild,
they may have been softened by acid in the gut-track of an
animal or
otherwise chipped against rocks in a wash after a rain. Try to
file the
outside of the seed a bit. Maybe even soaking a few in water to
see if they
sprout better than others. Since you will probably be starting
these in
containers, I don't see why you couldn't begin now.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Here is another archived response to a similar question, to
view it go to:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000872.html
I hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
cablebeach@netscape.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to know how to start a mesqite tree from seed.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:09:44 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 14:09:44 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Grapes
Here in the Phoenix area, I prune my grapes in January or
February. I would suggest that you contact your local county
cooperative extension office to find out if the time of year is
different in your area. You can locate their phone number in
the government listings of your phone book.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
alawns@gte.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> i live in burbank ca when is it the best
>
> time to prune grapes .
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From jclauss@clopay.com Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:35:21 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:35:21 -0700 (MST)
From: jclauss@clopay.com jclauss@clopay.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have a Chilean Mesquite tree in a lawn area that was planted approx one year ago. Just a few days ago, the leaves on half of the branches started to wilt and have since died and started to drop. The other branches look normal.
I was told at a local nursery that the tree probably has "butteress rot" caused by a soil born fungus. I was also told that this was a relatively new problem here in the Phoenix area, that Mesquite were especially susceptible, and that there is no known cure.
Does this sound like an accurate diagnosis? Is there a cure? If I move the plant into a non-lawn area, will it recover? What trees are not susceptible?
Thanks,
Joe
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:51:38 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 15:51:38 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] PRESIDENT OF SOUTH AFRICAN BOTANICAL GARDEN TO GIVE SLIDE SHOW
AT Boyce Thompson ARBORETUM
--=====================_3097762==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>>PRESIDENT OF SOUTH AFRICAN BOTANICAL GARDEN TO GIVE SLIDE SHOW AT
>>ARBORETUM
>>
>>Ian Oliver, the president of Karoo Botanical Garden in South Africa,
will be
>>giving a slide show on the succulents of that region at Boyce Thompson
>>Arboretum on Wednesday, June 21 at 3 p.m. Interested parties are welcome.
>>Admission to Boyce Thompson Arboretum is required for non-members at a cost
>>of $5/adult.
>>Information Specialist
>>Boyce Thompson Arboretum
>>37615 Hwy 60
>>Superior, AZ 85273-5100
>>phone 520-689-2723 fax 520-689-5858
>>http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_3097762==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
>>PRESIDENT OF SOUTH AFRICAN BOTANICAL GARDEN TO GIVE SLIDE SHOW AT
>>ARBORETUM
>>
>>Ian Oliver, the president of Karoo Botanical Garden in South
Africa, will be
>>giving a slide show on the succulents of that region at Boyce
Thompson
>>Arboretum on Wednesday, June 21 at 3 p.m. Interested parties are
welcome.
>>Admission to Boyce Thompson Arboretum is required for non-members
at a cost
>>of $5/adult.
>>Information Specialist
>>Boyce Thompson Arboretum
>>37615 Hwy 60
>>Superior, AZ 85273-5100
>>phone 520-689-2723 fax 520-689-5858
>>http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U
of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_3097762==_.ALT--
From natenate@cei.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:29:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 16:29:43 -0700 (MST)
From: natenate@cei.net natenate@cei.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
what website should we go to to get pictures and information about Arizona's landscaping? such as: personal homes landscaping designs? thank you for the infomation.
From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 18:03:43 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 18:03:43 -0700
From: Pauline Marx PlantPerson@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Starting Pineapple Plants
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_00A7_01BFDA18.B4799380
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Choose a pineapple that has healthy leaves. Cut off a bit of the fruit
along with the crown of leaves at the top of the plant. Plant it in light
houseplant soil and place it in full sun. Water it once or twice a week in
summer and once in winter and allow to dry out before watering, once it has
become established. If it fruits, and this may take several years, the
fruit will spring from the center of the plant. The environment should be
kept humid and the leaves sprayed twice a week. Feed with liquid fertilizer
once a month. This plant does not have a resting period.
Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens
Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona
------=_NextPart_000_00A7_01BFDA18.B4799380
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Choose a pineapple that has healthy =
leaves. =20
Cut off a bit of the fruit along with the crown of leaves at the top of =
the=20
plant. Plant it in light houseplant soil and place it in full=20
sun. Water it once or twice a week in summer and once in winter and =
allow=20
to dry out before watering, once it has become established. =
If it=20
fruits, and this may take several years, the fruit will spring from the =
center=20
of the plant. The environment should be kept humid and the leaves =
sprayed=20
twice a week. Feed with liquid fertilizer once a month. This =
plant=20
does not have a resting period.
Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy =
Gardens
Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona
------=_NextPart_000_00A7_01BFDA18.B4799380--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:14:42 EDT
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 21:14:42 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Mesquite leaves wilting
Joe, The Butteress Rot is a new one on me and I do get and read a quarterly
news letter from the U of A Pathology Department. I'll check it out and find
out if there is such a fungus disease.
If you are not giving the Mesquite additional water other than what it
receives from the turf irrigation could be causing the wilting leaves.
Periodically you need to soak that tree root zone to at least the three foot
depth. With out deep roots you run the risk of finding the Mesquite bottom
side up after one of our monsoon winds.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon, 19 Jun 2000 19:54:49 -0700
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2000 19:54:49 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Orange Dog Caterpillar
see the University of Florida's information page at
http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/~insect/CITRUS/giantswallowtail.htm
should answer your questions.
m.melkonian@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I was wondering if you can tell me about the life cycle of the orangedog
caterpillar that becomes the Giant Swallowtail butterfly. I know they are
not largely predated upon because of the unpleasant odor they emit.
However, I don't know how long (approximately) it is from larvae to
butterfly. Once they have formed a chrysalis how long before the butterfly
emerges? I have seen these caterpillars at various stages of their
development, but recently the three we were tracking just
disappeared(overnight). We could not find a chrysalis nor did we see any
emerging butterflies. I would appreciate any information you could provide
about their life cycle, length of each stage, etc. We live in Florida and
we find them on our citrus trees.
From andrea.zeising@rogers-corp.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 07:51:54 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 07:51:54 -0700 (MST)
From: andrea.zeising@rogers-corp.com andrea.zeising@rogers-corp.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a queen palm. Last season it produced two very messy seed pods. This season it has produced 8 seed pods, so far. Prior years (around 6 years) it has not produced any. Why are my other queen palms trees not producing the seed pods? How many pods per season should I expect? How many years does it product? Is there anything I can put on the tree to prevent the pods from developing? It seems like these pods are preventing the development of new growth. Thank you for your help.
From crmcfadden@hotmail.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:41:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:41:55 -0700 (MST)
From: crmcfadden@hotmail.com crmcfadden@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
There is a spot I've picked out on the north
side of the house, where I would like to put
in a vegetable garden. I picked this particular
spot because it is currently free of vegetation
(except the carcass of a dead cholla), and
because of it's proximity to a water source (the
hose). Anyway, this is virgin ground, never
been broken (and full of stones), and it will
probably be at least 6 months until I can get
out there physically and dig in the soil. My
question is, is there some way I can prepare
the soil ahead of time so that digging is easier
later? What I had in mind is covering the area
with newspapers or other mulch after dampening
the soil, and letting it sit for a while, hopefully
softening in the process. Does this sound reasonable?
Will the covered area become a haven for rats,
scorpions, snakes, etc.? If you have any ideas,
I would love the help. Thanks.
- c.
P.S. I live in the hilly deserts west of Carefree,
if that makes a difference.
From Jclauss@clopay.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:51:55 -0400
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:51:55 -0400
From: Joe Clauss Jclauss@clopay.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Mesquite leaves wilting
Thanks for the quick reply, Rod. I have a 6' brick border around the base of the tree, and I have been deep watering about once a month. Do you think this is enough? Joe
>>> 06/19 6:14 PM >>>
Joe, The Butteress Rot is a new one on me and I do get and read a quarterly
news letter from the U of A Pathology Department. I'll check it out and find
out if there is such a fungus disease.
If you are not giving the Mesquite additional water other than what it
receives from the turf irrigation could be causing the wilting leaves.
Periodically you need to soak that tree root zone to at least the three foot
depth. With out deep roots you run the risk of finding the Mesquite bottom
side up after one of our monsoon winds.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
*****Internet E-Mail Confidentiality**********************************
Notice: This e-mail may contain information which is privileged and confidential. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any copying of or disclosure of this e-mail or its message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this in error, please call 800-282-2260, or collect at (001) 513-381-4800. Thank you.
**********************************************************************
From voigt@kingsley.co.za Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:03:13 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:03:13 -0700 (MST)
From: voigt@kingsley.co.za voigt@kingsley.co.za
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Send me information on date trees.
Thank you.
From dealanni@rochester.rr.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:13:04 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 14:13:04 -0700 (MST)
From: dealanni@rochester.rr.com dealanni@rochester.rr.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'm trying to grow pink and white locust trees from seeds that I picked up from a neighboring residence last fall -- but with no luck. I once heard that the seeds needed to experience a freeze first; is this true??
thanks for any help.
From ambervann2@yahoo.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:00:49 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:00:49 -0700 (MST)
From: ambervann2@yahoo.com ambervann2@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have recently relocated to Arizona and purchased a new home in Anthem. In my previous city, the extension office provided landscaping services free of charge for home owners. Do you know if the city of Phoenix offers any services such as this? Any kind of service where someone will come out and help you determine which plants/trees/sod to plant and then assist in the landscaping? Thank you for your time.
From jltpf@aol.com Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:47:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 21:47:34 -0700 (MST)
From: jltpf@aol.com jltpf@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have been trying to propagate some plants. I take the cuttings from plants. I remove the bottom leaves and dip the bottom of the stem into a rooting hormone.Then I place them in soil-less mix which is Scott Potting Soil (vermiculite and sphagnium peat). The soil is moist. Each time, after a few days, the leaves fall off the stem. What am I doing wrong? The plants that I tried to do are redbird of paradise, oleander and bougainwillea. I have done this process with my indoor plants and have not problem. Please help me. Thank you - e-mail me back your response.
From uh1h@earthlink.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:02:25 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:02:25 -0700 (MST)
From: uh1h@earthlink.net uh1h@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We are growing sugar baby watermelons, but are not sure when we should pick them. We lost some of the harvesting information when we tore open the seed package.
From smacica@intsvc.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:28:15 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 06:28:15 -0700 (MST)
From: smacica@intsvc.com smacica@intsvc.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Last winter purchased a Carolina Jessamine, Gelsemium sempervirens.
I planted it on the north side of a concrete block wall, running east/west.
It has been doing beautifully until 4 days ago when some of the leaves started
drying up and dying. Some tendrils seem uneffected or lightly effected so far,
but others are completely dead. I thought might need more water so I have been
hand watering since the problem appeared.
And suggestions?
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:32:27 -0700
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:32:27 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
A few indicators for :melons in general. Don't know why they should not
apply to Sugar Baby as well
1. The tendril on the vine opposite the stem should be dead.
2. There will be a bald spot at the bottom of the melon at the point of
contact.
3. Rapping sharply with a knuckle should result in a crisp sound or
"feel", not a dull thud. This method is pretty reliable but takes lots of
practice and a few sacrificial melons.
4. Some people recommend removing a plug and replacing it if the melon
isn't ripe. This works to some extent in cooler climates but in our hot
weather the melon spoils pretty rapidly around the plug and the ants seem
to find the hole the right away.
Olin Miller
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 6:02 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> We are growing sugar baby watermelons, but are not sure when we should
pick them. We lost some of the harvesting information when we tore open the
seed package.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:40:51 -0700
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 07:40:51 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: When are Watermlons Ripe?
A few indicators for :melons in general. Don't know why they should not
apply to Sugar Baby as well
1. The tendril on the vine opposite the stem should be dead.
2. There will be a bald spot at the bottom of the melon at the point of
contact.
3. Rapping sharply with a knuckle should result in a crisp sound or
"feel", not a dull thud. This method is pretty reliable but takes lots of
practice and a few sacrificial melons.
4. Some people recommend removing a plug and replacing it if the melon
isn't ripe. This works to some extent in cooler climates but in our hot
weather the melon spoils pretty rapidly around the plug and the ants seem
to find the hole the right away.
Olin Miller
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 6:02 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> We are growing sugar baby watermelons, but are not sure when we should
pick them. We lost some of the harvesting information when we tore open the
seed package.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:08 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:08 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Seeds
Hi,
Seeds vary in their needs. You will have to name the seeds to give us a
chance to answer your question.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/15/00 9:05:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Krafttyone
writes:
<< Subj: Seeds
Date: 6/15/00 9:05:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: Krafttyone
To: JeanSciFi
I would like to know if seed can be planted in June in a partially shaded
area of the yard? >>
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:09 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:09 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: mexican palm tree
Hi Frank,
I live near Phoenix and have no connections in your area. You might try your
county extension office or a nursery that specializes in palm trees. You
might also contact a Botanical Garden if you have one in reach.
Sorry can't help you more. I will post this on the Arid_Gardener board
though incase someone on line can help more.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/15/00 9:10:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time, LOERAFOUR@cs.com
writes:
<< Subj: mexican palm tree
Date: 6/15/00 9:10:30 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: LOERAFOUR@cs.com
To: JeanSciFi
Hello, Jean
I came across this address while searching for a tree recycler. I have two
mature Mexican palms, probably six or seven years old and standing 20' to 25'
feet high, that are outgrowing the area that they where planted in. They are
pushing out the planter walls and cracking the concrete from the weight. I
was looking for someone who might be interested in them, I don't want to
have them destroyed I would like to find them a home. Maybe you know of a
nursery or private party in the southern California area that might be
interested. I hate to part with them but I must do something with them.
I hope to hear from you soon.
Thank you,
Frank >>
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:04 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:00:04 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: CREPE MYRTLE
Hi,
According to Sunset's Western Garden Flagstaff is on the edge of zone 1 and
2. It may be rated differently by other systems. The book itself states
that Crape Myrtle will grow in all zones. To bloom it evidently needs hot
summers. My Crape Myrtle has been blooming for several weeks. I've had some
trouble with salt burn and with birds when it first started to leaf out. The
birds kept stripping off the leaves.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/20/00 8:04:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time, R2BESHON@aol.com
writes:
<< Subj: CREPE MYRTLE
Date: 6/20/00 8:04:44 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: R2BESHON@aol.com
To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
can crepe myrtle be grown in flagstaff, az.
From parpam1@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:21:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:21:19 -0700 (MST)
From: parpam1@aol.com parpam1@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have several gold and yellow lantanas. Two weeks ago all the flowers disappeared and we're left with only small ball-like things in their place. What happened?
From chudson@fertizona.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:46:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 10:46:00 -0700 (MST)
From: chudson@fertizona.com chudson@fertizona.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
MY CHERRY TOMATO PLANTS LOOK TERRIBLE
THE LEAVES ARE ALL CURLED UP WHAT DO YOU
SUGGEST?
CISSY
From pkrzemien@worldnet.att.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:07:10 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:07:10 -0700 (MST)
From: pkrzemien@worldnet.att.net pkrzemien@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a dwarf mandarin orange.
The ends of the stem are brown and dead
while the rest of the tree appears healthy.
Upon closer inspection there is a little
ring that separates the healthy and
the dead part of the tree.
What is it and what is the recommended
cure or treatment for this? Thanks in
advance for your help.
From flutterfarm@juno.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:31:38 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:31:38 -0700 (MST)
From: flutterfarm@juno.com flutterfarm@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
my husband weed eats around the small fruit trees and severly damages them. isn't this called girding and won't it kill the tree?
From GEMolumby@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:10:39 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 12:10:39 -0700 (MST)
From: GEMolumby@aol.com GEMolumby@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Probably a dumb question..Regarding geraniums
After the flower petals fall off, should it be prunned, or will the flower regenerate it's self.
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:28:35 -0700
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:28:35 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re:Geraniums
There are no dumb questions. When my geranium flowers get to the "shabby-looking" stage, I cut the
flowerheads off. The plant then continues to produce more flowers. Sometimes there is a lull in
when the next batch of flowers appear, but I'm still getting the blooms.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
GEMolumby@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Probably a dumb question..Regarding geraniums
> After the flower petals fall off, should it be prunned, or will the flower regenerate it's self.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:38:55 -0700
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 14:38:55 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Lantana berries
Lantanas do produce berries (which are poinsonous) so this is natural. Lantana needs very little special care. The are happy in full sun and do best if not
overwatered or overfed. You should be seeing flowers again.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
parpam1@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have several gold and yellow lantanas. Two weeks ago all the flowers disappeared and we're left with only small ball-like things in their place. What happened?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:06 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:06 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Girdling a tree
Yes girdling a tree with a weed eater will eventually kill the tree. Tell
your husband that there are plastic guards available from most nurseries that
will help prevent damage to the tree. The guards are springy and just snap
into place around the trunk of the tree.
Good luck.
Rod
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:07 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:07 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Starting plants from cuttings
Time of year has been important to my sucess in starting cuttings. I've had
the best luck during the months of Jan.,thru Mar. If I do not have a
sterilized potting mix then I use a fungicide in the mix. This will prevent
the water molds from killing the new growth when it starts. I use one gallon
pots and cover them with a two liter pop bottle with the bottom cut out.
PLace them in a shady spot.
Good luck
Rod
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:06 EDT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:38:06 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Citrus care
Citrus should never be pruned except to remove dead wood or to keep the tree
within bounds, or to remove sucker growth from below the graft.The pruning
can be done any time however spring is the preferable time. Do not ever take
off more than 25% at any time or more than 1/3 in one year.
An excellent bulletin titled Citrus Trees in the Home Garden is available
from the U. of A. Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040 for one dollar.
This bulletin addresses all phases of citrus care.
Good luck.
Rod
From finalb@prodigy.net Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:10:58 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 16:10:58 -0700 (MST)
From: finalb@prodigy.net finalb@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What kind of hedge and what kind of vine grows best near a wall and lawn area? I live in Gilbert;and I am a recent transplant from Ca. I love to garden and have become very depressed over the fact that I have killed a lot of roses and can't seem to get a straight answer about watering my lawn. I hired a professional landscaper; but he just confuses me. My landscape is looking terrible and I spent a great deal of money on it.
From fscapellit@mindspring.com Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:47:49 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 18:47:49 -0700 (MST)
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a bamboo plant (Nandina). It's been fine. It even had a flower stalk for a couple of months. We've only had it less than a year.
Now, all of a sudden the leaves are green yet but dry. They make a rustle sound when you touch and move them. Most of them are like that, a few near the main stalk are soft and alive.
What did a do wrong. I didn't forget to water it, and didn't overwater it.
By the way, the flower stalk was turning brown, so I cut it off.
Please help me.
From Alelopathy@aol.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 07:36:58 EDT
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 07:36:58 EDT
From: Alelopathy@aol.com Alelopathy@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Cookbook
The Northwest Valley Master Gardeners are writing a cookbook, and we need
your input. The format will be recipes with a little gardening on the side.
An example would be a recipes for stuffed peppers and pepper steak. On an
opposite page we would briefly tell how to grow peppers in the Sonoran desert.
However, we all know that chocolate doesn't grow in the desert. But we still
need your most decadent dessert recipes, appetizers and main dishes too.
Also, if you have a favorite recipe that calls for a cup of heavy cream, and
you've changed it to lower the calories with buttermilk or skim milk we'd
like to hear about that too.
You don't need to be a Master Gardener to participate. There are lots of you
out there that love to cook.
Can't wait to hear from you,
Glenna Phillips, Master Gardener
From rhansen@usa.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:40:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 11:40:55 -0700 (MST)
From: rhansen@usa.com rhansen@usa.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have areas in my Bermuda lawn which are baren. Grass has not grown in these areas for two years now. There is healthy grass surrounding these areas (the areas are 1-2 feet in diameter). Any help will be greatly appreciated. There is some shade in the baren areas, but the healthy areas have some shade also.
Best regards, Bob
From Azkatwill@aol.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:40:44 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:40:44 -0700 (MST)
From: Azkatwill@aol.com Azkatwill@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How much water does one provide to the tomato and watermelon plants at this time of year. The tomato plant has new growth but also has some leaves that are dying.
From j_harrell@netzero.net Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:37:52 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:37:52 -0700 (MST)
From: j_harrell@netzero.net j_harrell@netzero.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hollyhocks - drying up
Why do my hollyhock buds dry up before they even blossom? Do they need an especially large amount of water?
From capt61@mail.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 16:32:28 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 16:32:28 -0700 (MST)
From: capt61@mail.com capt61@mail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hello. Thank you for this service.Is there anyone or site to ask about the propigation of Wild flowers? capt61@mail.com cares :]
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:43:13 EDT
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:43:13 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Landscape problems
I think that Natal Plum makes an excellent hedge. It is very dark green , has
white blossoms which develope into an edible red fruit.Depending on the
variety the Natal Plum can be low growing or moderately large. It does have
thorns and is frost tender.
As for vines, you must becareful in selecting the proper vine, if the
location is west facing where the vine will receive full afternoon sun you
must select a vine that will florish under those conditions.*I've found that
Queen's Wreath and Cats Claw will handle that situation.
Bougainvillea is probably one of the most popular vines planted in
the low desert. It require very little water and fertilizer and if planted in
full sun will bloom its head off. A rainbow of colors are available.
The U. of A Extension has an excellent bulleten titled Landscape Vines
available from 4341 E Broadway, Phoenix, 48042 for $1.00.
So many newcomers have trouble with their plants and trees from either
over or under watering them. If you will let me know how much water you are
applying and how often I'll be glad to advise you.
Roses have long been a hobby, send along your questions
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 22 Jun 2000 23:19:07 EDT
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 23:19:07 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Turf with dead spots
Bob,If your grass is a hybrid bermuda, have you checked for pearl scale? You
can do this by digging up a shovel full of dirt taken at the boundary of the
dead and live grass and check for the 1/8 inch diameter pearls. If the
patches increase in size pearl scale would be suspect.
Is the house quite new and is there any construction debris buried
beneath the dead patches.
Could there have been a spill of gasoline, fertilizer, or an herbicide.
Lastly check to make sure that your irrigation system is watering
uniformily.
Good luck.
Rod
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:25:51 -0700
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:25:51 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Water Requirements for Tomatoes and Watrermeloms
----- Original Message ----- From: > How much water does
one provide to the tomato and watermelon plants at this time of year. The
tomato plant has new growth but also has some leaves that are dying.
Irrigate so the soil stays damp but not sopping wet - usually one to two
inches of water per week depending on soil condition and if (or how) mulch
is applied (one inch of water = about 62.5 gal per 100 square feet).
Irrigate 2 - 3 times per week. At this time of year, many of the
determinate tomato types will start to wither and die. Many indeterminates
can survive the summer and bear again in the fall. It is not unusual for
tomatoes to appear wilted in the afternoon but if they are also wilting in
the morning, they may either too wet, too dry or suffering from some
disease.
Olin Miller
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:47:16 -0700
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 21:47:16 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Tomatoes Wilting
----- Original Message ----- From:
> MY CHERRY TOMATO PLANTS LOOK TERRIBLE
> THE LEAVES ARE ALL CURLED UP WHAT DO YOU
> SUGGEST?
> CISSY
There are numerous problems which can affect tomatoes this time of year.
Your problem may be Curly Top Virus. It is spread by the Beet Leafhopper.
The only solution for this is prevention by shading the plants before the
leafhopper becomes active - leafhoppers like shade but not sun. Another
possibility is root knot nematodes. See
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm
and
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-hop.htm
and
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/root-knt.htm
If the tomatoes are determinates (bush type) , the plants are probably
spent and dying off. Other possibilities are some of wilt diseases which
would show a yellowing of the leaves - plant resistant varieties at a
different location next time. Finally, improper watering, too much or too
little, can cause wilting. Water if there is no moisture at 1 - 2 inches.
Olin Miller
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:25:58 -0700
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 22:25:58 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Soil Prep for Vegetable Garden
What works for me:
Water will run off your virgin soil and not penetrate. If you loosen the
top few inches of soil with a pick or shovel (pick works best), then flood
the area, the water will soak into the soil which makes it pretty easy to
work but wait until it dries out enough - about two days. Then dig or roto
till to 8 - 10 inches. I would use a rototiller the first time the soil is
worked. Sprinkle agricultural gypsum at the recommended rate (label on
the bag), then rototill in 2 - 4 inches of organic compost. I use either
horse or cow manure because it is inexpensive and readily available. Horse
manure is somewhat hot and needs to be aged or well composted. It also
tends to be weedy (from the hay) and will often contain Bermudagrass seeds.
Cow manure persists longer but is often high in salts which need to be
leached out. Peat moss doesn't mix well with our soil and tends to wash
away. Chicken manure is best used as fertilizer, not compost, because of
its high ammonia content. After this, flood the area again and wait a few
weeks to activate the additives. I never cover it but it's probably okay
to do that. After a few weeks, add a phosphorous fertilizer like ammonium
phosphate or bone meal. The compost will usually reduce the pH but it also
helps to add a liquid or water soluble sulfur at this time which will lower
the pH more rapidly. Soil sulfur can also be added but it is slow acting
and won't be of much benefit to the first crop. You can also add a
nitrogen fertilizer at this time (ammonium sulfate or blood meal) but it
dissipates fairly rapidly and I usually wait until the crop has sprouted
and grown to where when it can use the nitrogen. Rake the additives into
the top few inches, then water again and wait a few weeks before planting.
I use a scuffle hoe to remove any weeds before planting.
You could do all of this in one operation but breaking it into two
operations seems to condition the soil better and utilization of the
additives seems more efficient. I'm also sure there are many other ways to
approach this, but this has worked best for me.
Good luck!
Olin Miller
---- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 11:41 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> There is a spot I've picked out on the north
> side of the house, where I would like to put
> in a vegetable garden. I picked this particular
> spot because it is currently free of vegetation
> (except the carcass of a dead cholla), and
> because of it's proximity to a water source (the
> hose). Anyway, this is virgin ground, never
> been broken (and full of stones), and it will
> probably be at least 6 months until I can get
> out there physically and dig in the soil. My
> question is, is there some way I can prepare
> the soil ahead of time so that digging is easier
> later? What I had in mind is covering the area
> with newspapers or other mulch after dampening
> the soil, and letting it sit for a while, hopefully
> softening in the process. Does this sound reasonable?
> Will the covered area become a haven for rats,
> scorpions, snakes, etc.? If you have any ideas,
> I would love the help. Thanks.
>
> - c.
>
> P.S. I live in the hilly deserts west of Carefree,
> if that makes a difference.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:36:13 EDT
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 01:36:13 EDT
From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Hollyhocks
No, hollyhocks don't need an extra amount of water. I have one blooming now
that is growing in a crack in my cement driveway - it has 4 or 5 leaves, is
about 6" tall, and it has 1 open bloom on it. I have had several in years
passed that survived on rain water alone - they didn't get as tall as the
ones that had water, but they bloomed.
Val
From j_harrell@netzero.net Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:43:00 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 17:43:00 -0700 (MST)
From: j_harrell@netzero.net j_harrell@netzero.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Sweet Corn varieties
I have been growing Early Sunglow for 2-3 years now and haven't been very successful - tassels at 3 feet tall and never gets much above 4 1/2 feet tall. My ground is composted and I try to water faithfully.
Does anybody have better success with Early Sunglow?
Does anybody suggest a better variety for the Valley? I'm trying to grow a kind that's sweet-tasting.
From jafurr@msn.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 09:16:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 09:16:50 -0700 (MST)
From: jafurr@msn.com jafurr@msn.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 3 mature citrus trees, orange, tangelo, grapefruit, and would like to know the watering schedule for them. I thought once a month with fertilizer in Feb., June and September was the norm. I am hearing conflicting stories from neighbors. Please advise. Thanks.
J. A. Furr at jafurr@msn.com
From renior307@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:15:34 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:15:34 -0700 (MST)
From: renior307@aol.com renior307@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hi, I am wondering if its birds or some kind of insect that is nibbling away at the zinnas I planted not to long ago? About 5 years ago I had hundreds of healthy zinnas.I planted 5 economy size packages if them and they are either biten off to the ground or the leaves are bitten to smitherens. SOS
From jdale@azstarnet.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:42:08 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 11:42:08 -0700 (MST)
From: jdale@azstarnet.com jdale@azstarnet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have just bought a house that is surrounded by eucalyptus trees - I believe they are Tiny Capsule Eucalyptus (eucalyptus microtheia). They constantly lose leaves - is this seasonal or continuous.
Also, they seem to have an extensive root network running under our house and getting into our plumbing. Will more frequent watering help to combat this excessive root growth? We may have to cut them down but they are so beautiful and provide such lovely shade. They are very tall but the they are rather thin.
From LITETUCH7@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 13:29:04 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 13:29:04 -0700 (MST)
From: LITETUCH7@aol.com LITETUCH7@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Good Afternoon,
How or where can I get information about Gourds...mainly how to harvest and dry we are having no problem growing.
Thanks
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 23 Jun 2000 14:00:05 -0700
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 14:00:05 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Drying Gourds
Fellow Master Gardener, Frank Martin, is involved with the Southwest Gourd Association. It is listed on the garden club
page of our website and contains a link to Frank.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Good luck!
Linda Guy, Master Gardener
LITETUCH7@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Good Afternoon,
> How or where can I get information about Gourds...mainly how to harvest and dry we are having no problem growing.
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 18:01:12 EDT
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 18:01:12 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Citrus Care
J.A., You were close on the times to fertilize citrus. We give you a little
leeway so that if you forget you won't feel guilty. Try Feb. or Mar., April
or May, and July or August.
If you have talked to 10 neighbors about irrigation you will probably
have 10 different answers, unless they have talked to us recently.
My suggestion is to check out the University of Arizona's website on
watering citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf
good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 18:01:11 EDT
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 18:01:11 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Eucalyptus microtheca
It is common for Eucalyptus as well as most evergreens to lose their leaves
thruout the year. The E. microtheca also sheds quite a lot of bark.
Once tree roots have found a way into a sewer it is next to impossible
to stop them short of cutting the tree down. I suspect that additional water
would make the matter worse. The E. microtheca can exist on very little
water; a deep soaking once every 3 to 4 weeks is very adequate.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:16:55 -0700
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:16:55 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: acorn squash
----- Original Message ----- From: Christina & Henry Bredenkamp
To:
> I was reading your response about the squash on internet. I was hunting
> for something to tell me WHEN to pull these things from the vine. I read
> they are vine ripened, but how do I know WHEN they are ripe? The only
> thing I can think of is to wait till the stem dies back to brown. But
> wondering if that is too late??? What do I look for?
Acorn squash may be harvested when the stem starts to shrivel as you
indicated, the color is dark green, and the rind is hard and can't be
scratched with your thumbnail. In the Phoenix AZ area, when planted in
late July per the usual recommendations, the squash will usually be ripe in
later October when it is fairly cool and it is okay to leave it on the vine
for a few weeks after it is ripe. But the smaller winter squash may also
be planted in March at the same time as summer squash. It will ripen in
May or June and needs to be harvested as soon as it is ripe because it can
spoil rapidly in the hot weather.
Olin Miller
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:43:39 -0700
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:43:39 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Early Sunglow has produced very well for me. It is a bantam type and 4 1/2
feet tall sounds about right. The ears are usually short, about 6 inches,
with a dozen rows of kernals on each ear. As a rule of thumb, each stalk
of the small varieties needs about 1 square foot of space so you can get
up to 100 plants in a 10 foot square block. Taller varieties need more
space. If the plants are spaced too close. the leaves (blades) may
interfere with pollination. It may be planted in the spring from mid
February Through mid April and again near the end of August. Sweet corn
needs a fair amount of water, more than some other vegetables such as
beans, for example, and should be on a separate irrigation system. Early
Sunglow tolerates wet soil pretty well. It also needs to be fertilized.
Use a complete fertilizer as it requires primarily nitrogen and, to a
lesser extent, phosphorous. You may find an article from last year's
"Horticulture Communicator" helpful. It is archived at
http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html
Olin
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:48:57 -0700
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:48:57 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Early Sunglow Sweetcorn
Early Sunglow has produced very well for me. It is a bantam type and 4 1/2
feet tall sounds about right. The ears are usually short, about 6 inches,
with a dozen rows of kernals on each ear. As a rule of thumb, each stalk
of the small varieties needs about 1 square foot of space so you can get
up to 100 plants in a 10 foot square block. Taller varieties need more
space. If the plants are spaced too close. the leaves (blades) may
interfere with pollination. It may be planted in the spring from mid
February Through mid April and again near the end of August. Sweet corn
needs a fair amount of water, more than some other vegetables such as
beans, for example, and should be on a separate irrigation system. Early
Sunglow tolerates wet soil pretty well. It also needs to be fertilized.
Use a complete fertilizer as it requires primarily nitrogen and, to a
lesser extent, phosphorous. You may find an article from last year's
"Horticulture Communicator" helpful. It is archived at
http://home.att.net/~millero/sweetcorn.html
Olin
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:43 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> Sweet Corn varieties
>
> I have been growing Early Sunglow for 2-3 years now and haven't been
very successful - tassels at 3 feet tall and never gets much above 4 1/2
feet tall. My ground is composted and I try to water faithfully.
>
> Does anybody have better success with Early Sunglow?
>
> Does anybody suggest a better variety for the Valley? I'm trying to
grow a kind that's sweet-tasting.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
From selfvoice@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:15:10 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:15:10 -0700 (MST)
From: selfvoice@aol.com selfvoice@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have what looks like a carob tree.
Is July an OK time
to trim it if it needs trimming?
What is the proper way to trim it?
How do I know if it needs trimming
for the care of the tree, not
just for aesthetics?
From selfvoice@aol.com Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:15:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:15:50 -0700 (MST)
From: selfvoice@aol.com selfvoice@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have what looks like a carob tree.
Is July an OK time
to trim it if it needs trimming?
What is the proper way to trim it?
How do I know if it needs trimming
for the care of the tree, not
just for aesthetics?
Sincerely
From wrestle@ndak.net Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:46:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 17:46:55 -0700 (MST)
From: wrestle@ndak.net wrestle@ndak.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
what is affecting my silver maple trees? i have 3 trees and 2 are affected. they have small red and green bumps on the leaves and in some spots they are covering the leaf. what is it and how do i control it?
thanks
gil
From AzRelo@aol.com Sat, 24 Jun 2000 07:45:08 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 07:45:08 -0700 (MST)
From: AzRelo@aol.com AzRelo@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We planted three Ficas trees last year that were each approx 8-10' tall at the time of planting. (they were professionally planted by Tip Top Nursery). We have also recently planted burmuda grass (from seed) and are hand watering it twice a day. Two of the ficas trees are now a healthy looking green color while one has a lot of yellow looking leaves...especially on the tips or new growth areas. Is this from over watering or underwatering and what can I do to correct it. Thank you
From Kirotate@aol.com Sat, 24 Jun 2000 09:35:17 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 09:35:17 -0700 (MST)
From: Kirotate@aol.com Kirotate@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I missed the fertilizer application that was due around Mem. Day for my Arizona Sweet orange trees. I did fertilize back in Feb. however. Is it too late to apply now or should I wait until the next 'due' date, around Labor Day. Both trees, about 10 years old, appear to be fine -- also, how frequently should I deep-water them through this heat? Appreciatively, Kathleen
From rsusa@home.com Sat, 24 Jun 2000 14:37:45 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 14:37:45 -0700
From: Rick Smith rsusa@home.com
Subject: [AG] proper care of madagascar palm
Can someone tell me how to take care of my new madagascar palm. It is
potted and approx. 5 feet tall. What is the best location, light
requirements, water, feeding, etc.
I live in coastal San Diego county. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
thank you
rick
From MAGIC919@AOL.COM Sat, 24 Jun 2000 16:16:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 16:16:43 -0700 (MST)
From: MAGIC919@AOL.COM MAGIC919@AOL.COM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have purple root nut grass spreading in my lawn. It's too well developed to attempt removing it by hand and I don't want to pull up the grass and start over. Is there something short of chemical warfare I can do to rid my lawn of the nut grass? I'm told that two applications of Monsanto's Manage will do the job, but I'm trying to avoid the chemical attack.
From JAcuff2612@aol.com Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:56:50 EDT
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:56:50 EDT
From: JAcuff2612@aol.com JAcuff2612@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Raising Mesquites from seed.
This is a good time because the seeds are available. I tried with moderate
success. Get a dozen seeds, scarify half with a file or hacksaw and boil the
other half. Plant in a couple of large pots and see what happens. Jim Acuff
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:27:09 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:27:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Containing Tree Roots
Any thing that you do to the roots [chemical, cutting or digging out] will impact the health of the tree. Tree, followed by root, removal is the only way to handle this, unfortunately.
Linda Guy
kcyoung2@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do I get rid of the trailing root system of my poplar trees, that end up in my lawn, and my neighbors yard. My neighbor tried Round Up. The leaves on the tree turned yellow and fell off.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:32:04 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:32:04 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Trees over Leach Field
A fellow Master Gardener just answered a similar question. Once tree
roots invade a septic system, it is next to impossible to remove them
short of taking down the tree. I would be very careful with the
placement.
[I'm assuming you are referring to a septic system that is still in use,
vs one that was retired in place after your home was later put onto
municipal sewer. If this is the case, my whole neighborhood is a great
example of every ornamental imaginable having been planted over the
tanks and leach fields.]
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
pbeno@sciti.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have leach lines in my front yard, they
> are about 3 feet under the surface. I have
> been told that I can plant fruit trees in
> this area, is this true or not. I have
> miniture orange, lemon, nectarine and peach.
> Any information you can give me would be
> appreciate.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:35:40 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:35:40 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Ant Control
The key to controlling ants is to eliminate the queen. We routinely recommend ground citrus peels [in blender] poured down ant hills, as the citrus oils are offensive to the
ants. For more detailed discussion, see the ant management section of our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
carlitt@goodnet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Our yard is desert landscaped. In the gravel there a swarms of little black ants. Any cactus that are in bloom a covered with the ants. How can I get rid of them? Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:41:49 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:41:49 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Sago Palm Care
These are not true palms but a very ancient plant called cycad. Be that as it may, we have a section of it in our Palm Publication [last page] at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
In my personal experience in the Phoenix climate, particularly in a container, these do best in shade AND with reflected heat minimized. Regular irrigation is a must, but you may have begun to drown your sago's roots because the container was bigger
than the plant's needs.
Try a bit of diluted liquid fertilizer to help it along; my container plants get this every 4 to 6 weeks.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ccandish@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a 3-year old Sago Palm that I think is getting root rot. I took it out of the container it was in, and dried it out. What can I do for it now? And, how and when do I nourish (feed) it? It is still containerized, and currrently outside.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:46:09 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:46:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Identify citrus leaf problem from this picture?
>
Just to let you know that I sent your question a few days ago to our staff citrus expert in Yuma. It may be a few days [I don't know his schedule], but he always provides excellent information. I'm sorry it's taken us so long to help you
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
> Brian White wrote:
>
> My new Lisbon Lemon on flyingdragon rootstock (2-3yrs old) has a problem that has grown from a few leaves to a lot of leaves in about 2 weeks. A picture is attached. To describe it: the leaves look green with normal shape but with many small spots progressing to larger spots. The color appears nearly white for the very small spots to a slight yellowing for the larger spots. As the problem progresses the spots get larger and more yellow-to-lightbrown in color, looking as though something is killing small areas on the leaf without cutting through the leaf. I'm concerned not only for this tree but to avoid the same problem in my other citrus trees.
>
> Thanks,
> Brian White
> home citrus grower
>
> Name: S_leaf.jpg
> S_leaf.jpg Type: JPEG Image (image/jpeg)
> Encoding: base64
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:57:02 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:57:02 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Eliminating Evening Primrose
Roundup [or any product with glyphosate] is good in an area where there is no other plant material you want to eradicate. It should be used in the lawn only if you have small spots to treat, and with the
knowledge that your lawn will also be impacted with discoloration until it fills back in.
However, it doesn't always work with just one application. When you think the plants are good and dead, water them well, try to resusitate them, and if you can do so, you know you need to apply more of this
systemic [kills the plant, but remains inert in the soil]. If the plants don't come back after your encouragement, you know you've done the job.
If you dig it up, you really have to sift all the pieces out of the soil. It is a very tenacious plant, as you've already experienced.
I have not used this product, but when particularly tenacious weeds invade turf,
some MGs have recommended Manage. I hope that my post will generate more input for you on this product.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
ssalvo@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> How do I get rid of Mexican Evening Primrose? I have tried digging it up twice, but it came back. I tried spraying it with Roundup, but it was unfazed. It is invading our lawn and I want it out of here.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:06:39 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:06:39 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Fruit Trees not Blooming
I can't really tell you what is going on. But I would like to recommend our Fruit Tree chapter of the Master Gardener manual which is available to you online at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
Our Phoenix winters have been unusually warm. Deciduous fruit trees have a minimum winter chill requirement to achieve in order to bear flowers/fruits the following season. You may have unsuitable varieties for our valley [ie require an extremely high chill period] or your trees are in a particularly warm spot and didn't eek out the lower
number of chill hours that are characteristic of low desert bearers.
If you are still confused after reading the chapter and contemplating your conditions and cultural practices, please write back to us with more specific details.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gerry@kos.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have 2 dwarf apple trees I planted four years ago. They have never bloomed. I also planted 4 full size apple trees last fall and along with the dwarfs, they too failed to blossom. What am I doing wrong? I fertilize and water them. They were all pruned early this spring before any buds formed. Any assistance would be appreciated.
> Sincerely,
> Gerry Michaud
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:12:17 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:12:17 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Great Tomatoes
Permit me to refer you to our Master Gardener Manual, which is available to you online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
I would suggest you peruse the chapter on vegetables and perhaps the one on soils, since you've had marginal results to date.
You can also order some of our publications on vegetables and tomatoes at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable
Sometimes you can actually find a binder with our Home Horticulture Publications in the reference section of your local public library, #635.
If you are still confused after doing a little of this reading, write back with some more specifics about the practices you've followed to date. It may simply be that you were used to planting tomatoes in May back home whereas most of us put them out as early as February/March with suitable frost protection as necessary.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
roncook1@earthlink.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Please tell me how to grow great tomatoes. What kind of soil conditions, additional minerals needed, how to keep birds off new growth, and watering. I have tried and tries, but only get great plants with little or no results. I am willing to totally create a dedicated area and develop the soil needed. Thanks for your help. Whoops--sorry, my email is roncook1@earthlink.net, not earthlink.com. Thanks agair, Ron
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:16:56 -0700
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:16:56 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Transplanting Honeysuckle
Although I've not specifically tried this before, I've no reason to assume you
cannot. I would not try this until the heat breaks in autumn, however. This will
give the plant a chance to reestablish itself, particularly if you are moving it to
a slightly different exposure or set of conditions.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
cmanley3@excite.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Can you tell me if I can transplant a honeysuckle plant and how to do it? Thanks
>
> Carla
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From Alelopathy@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 07:45:26 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 07:45:26 EDT
From: Alelopathy@aol.com Alelopathy@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Fwd: This is sent to my older friends....me too!!
--part1_e8.634eca5.26874ad6_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
This is kinda long, but well worth the read.
<<
> SENIORS MUST LEARN TO SACRIFICE
>
> This one came from a fabulous 70+ year old man who is a
> retired air
> force pilot and gave countless hours of service.
> SENIORS MUST LEARN TO
> SACRIFICE!
> All citizens of the USA should remember this!!!!! I
> was embarrassed to
> read that President Clinton and his advisors have said,
> "The older
> generation must learn to sacrifice as other generations
> have done"
> That's my generation. I knew eventually someone would
> ferret out the
> dirty secret: we've lived the "lifestyle of the rich
> and famous" all our
> lives.
>
> Now, I know I must bare the truth about my generation
> and let the
> country condemn us for our selfishness. We certainly
> don't deserve any
> of that Social Security money that we've put away for
> 45 or 50 years!
> We sure don't need help with our medical bills...no,
> we've surely got
> Enough put away for a $250,000 open heart surgery
> bill. We've had so
> much fun in our lives, why just read the following:
>
> During the Depression we had a hilarious time dancing
> to the tune of
> "Brother Can You Spare A. Dime?" We could choose to
> dine at any of the
> country's fabulous soup kitchens, often joined by our
> parents and
> siblings...those were the heady days of carefree
> self-indulgence.
>
> Then, with World War II, the cup filled to
> overflowing. We had the
> chance to bask on the exotic beaches of Guadalcanal,
> Iwo Jima and
> Okinawa; to see the capitols of Europe and travel to
> such scenic spots
> as Bastogne, Malmedy and Monte Cassino.
>
> Of course, one of the most exhilarating adventures was
> the stroll from
> Bataan to the local Japanese hotels, laughingly known
> as death camps.
> But the good times really rolled for those lucky enough
> to be on the
> beaches of Normandy for the swimming and boating that
> pleasant June day
> in '44. Unforgettable.
>
> Even luckier were those that drew the prized holiday
> tickets for cruises
> on sleek, gray ships to fun filled spots like Midway,
> The Solomons and
> Murmansk. Instead of asking, "what can we do for our
> country," an
> indulgent government let us fritter away our youth
> wandering idly
> through the lush and lovely jungles of Burma and New
> Guinea.
>
> Yes, it's all true: we were pampered, we were spoiled
> rotten, we never
> did realize what sacrifice meant. We envy you, Mr.
> Clinton, the harsh
> lessons you learned in London, Moscow, Little Rock, and
> the secluded
> cubby's of the Oval office with a young intern.
>
> My generation is old, Mr. President...and guilty; but
> we are repentant.
> Punish us for our failings, sir, that we may learn the
> true meaning of
> Duty, Honor, and Country. Give that money that we've
> been putting in to
> Social Security and Medicare to those more
> deserving...like yourself?
>
> Robert J. Grady, Lt. Col., USAF (Ret), Colorado Springs
>
> IF YOU FEEL AS I DO, YOU WILL PASS THIS ON TO EVERY ONE
> ON YOUR LIST,
> REGARDLESS OF THEIR POLITICAL PREFERENCE.
> For all of us who still remember, let those who don't,
> understand. >>
--part1_e8.634eca5.26874ad6_boundary
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path:
From: LeonVr@aol.com
Full-name: LeonVr
Message-ID: <3a.6ec4d81.268630d3@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 11:42:11 EDT
Subject: This is sent to my older friends....me too!!
To: 104615.3251@compuserve.com, aaschmedding@uswest.net, Ajanzbek@aol.com,
Alelopathy@aol.com, Azurea@aol.com, Bornfeetf@aol.com,
Bpokorski@aol.com, Dave.emery@student-hlth.ucdavis.edu,
DEETENNIS@aol.com, DFischer4@aol.com, DMREILLY1@aol.com,
DStrong154@aol.com, EGLENST1@aol.com, GKeramis@aol.com,
Jandyred@aol.com, JcqDvll@aol.com, Jose.Cuevas@delta-air.com,
litscher@cybertrails.com, lquitney2@juno.com, LtnDlnMaz@aol.com,
mcdpaul@gateway.net, Ncazut@mindspring.com, R.Sikler@worldnet.att.net,
RAND1173@aol.com, rjanton1@juno.com, sjantil@juno.com,
snowboarder4444@yahoo.com, tbarrient@yahoo.com, TennisB407@aol.com,
vidalinx@es.com.sv, WizBang37@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL for Macintosh sub 28
> SENIORS MUST LEARN TO SACRIFICE
>
> This one came from a fabulous 70+ year old man who is a
> retired air
> force pilot and gave countless hours of service.
> SENIORS MUST LEARN TO
> SACRIFICE!
> All citizens of the USA should remember this!!!!! I
> was embarrassed to
> read that President Clinton and his advisors have said,
> "The older
> generation must learn to sacrifice as other generations
> have done"
> That's my generation. I knew eventually someone would
> ferret out the
> dirty secret: we've lived the "lifestyle of the rich
> and famous" all our
> lives.
>
> Now, I know I must bare the truth about my generation
> and let the
> country condemn us for our selfishness. We certainly
> don't deserve any
> of that Social Security money that we've put away for
> 45 or 50 years!
> We sure don't need help with our medical bills...no,
> we've surely got
> Enough put away for a $250,000 open heart surgery
> bill. We've had so
> much fun in our lives, why just read the following:
>
> During the Depression we had a hilarious time dancing
> to the tune of
> "Brother Can You Spare A. Dime?" We could choose to
> dine at any of the
> country's fabulous soup kitchens, often joined by our
> parents and
> siblings...those were the heady days of carefree
> self-indulgence.
>
> Then, with World War II, the cup filled to
> overflowing. We had the
> chance to bask on the exotic beaches of Guadalcanal,
> Iwo Jima and
> Okinawa; to see the capitols of Europe and travel to
> such scenic spots
> as Bastogne, Malmedy and Monte Cassino.
>
> Of course, one of the most exhilarating adventures was
> the stroll from
> Bataan to the local Japanese hotels, laughingly known
> as death camps.
> But the good times really rolled for those lucky enough
> to be on the
> beaches of Normandy for the swimming and boating that
> pleasant June day
> in '44. Unforgettable.
>
> Even luckier were those that drew the prized holiday
> tickets for cruises
> on sleek, gray ships to fun filled spots like Midway,
> The Solomons and
> Murmansk. Instead of asking, "what can we do for our
> country," an
> indulgent government let us fritter away our youth
> wandering idly
> through the lush and lovely jungles of Burma and New
> Guinea.
>
> Yes, it's all true: we were pampered, we were spoiled
> rotten, we never
> did realize what sacrifice meant. We envy you, Mr.
> Clinton, the harsh
> lessons you learned in London, Moscow, Little Rock, and
> the secluded
> cubby's of the Oval office with a young intern.
>
> My generation is old, Mr. President...and guilty; but
> we are repentant.
> Punish us for our failings, sir, that we may learn the
> true meaning of
> Duty, Honor, and Country. Give that money that we've
> been putting in to
> Social Security and Medicare to those more
> deserving...like yourself?
>
> Robert J. Grady, Lt. Col., USAF (Ret), Colorado Springs
>
> IF YOU FEEL AS I DO, YOU WILL PASS THIS ON TO EVERY ONE
> ON YOUR LIST,
> REGARDLESS OF THEIR POLITICAL PREFERENCE.
> For all of us who still remember, let those who don't,
> understand.
>
--part1_e8.634eca5.26874ad6_boundary--
From ronhrl@aol.com Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:00:37 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 18:00:37 -0700 (MST)
From: ronhrl@aol.com ronhrl@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
When is the best time of year to:
-plant summer flowers
-plant winter flowers
-trim trees
Thanks, Ron
From ebaum95601@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 01:22:52 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 01:22:52 -0700 (MST)
From: ebaum95601@aol.com ebaum95601@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the probability of existing desert plants (cacti, mesquite, ironwood, cholla) being successfully transplanted if they are dug up with little roots left and transplanted during June in Scottsdale?
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:46:43 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:46:43 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] What is Humas?
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------CB2058CAE39966C1AAD99790
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
--------------CB2058CAE39966C1AAD99790
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-Path:
Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net
Received: (qmail 97299 invoked by uid 0); 25 Jun 2000 13:16:01 -0000
Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22)
by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 25 Jun 2000 13:16:01 -0000
Received: (qmail 22734 invoked from network); 25 Jun 2000 13:16:00 -0000
Received: from f143.law4.hotmail.com (HELO hotmail.com) (216.33.149.143)
by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 25 Jun 2000 13:16:00 -0000
Received: (qmail 63898 invoked by uid 0); 25 Jun 2000 13:15:59 -0000
Received: from 216.14.1.120 by www.hotmail.com with HTTP;
Sun, 25 Jun 2000 06:15:59 PDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 08:15:59 CDT
Message-ID: <20000625131559.63897.qmail@hotmail.com>
From: "Paula McGee"
To: lindaguy@uswest.net
X-Originating-IP: [216.14.1.120]
Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
I think your right. I left out one of the m's in Hummus. We have some
landscapers working where I am employed and my co-worker asked one of them
about the Hummus and was told that it should be mixed with other soil.
I apperciate your reply.
Thank you
Paula
>From: Linda Guy
>To: paula_mcgee@hotmail.com
>Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Sat, 24 Jun 2000 19:00:34 -0700
>
>Did you ever receive a reply? I didn't see one post, and in all honesty,
>I've no idea what Humas soil is. Is this the brand name, using a twist of
>the word hummus which is leaf rot?
>
>Linda Guy
>Master Gardener
>
>paula_mcgee@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > A co-worker mentioned she had bought serval bags of Humas soil that was
>on sale but wasn't sure if Humas could be used alone or had to be mixed
>with another type of soil. Can Humas be used alone for flower beds?
> > Thank you
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
>
________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
--------------CB2058CAE39966C1AAD99790--
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:59:58 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:59:58 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Gardenreview.com
This was Diana Balazs virtual garden recommendation last week [Wednesday
Republic garden pages in the Good Life section], and I'm finding it to
be alot of fun. Many things for yard and garden, including garden
catalogs, are rated by consumers like us who visit the site. June's
monthly contest for some tools is entered each time you review a
product. So easy. And I'm finding the input from others very
informative.
Take a look-see when you're not busy posting on arid_gardener!
Linda Guy
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 12:22:19 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 12:22:19 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Citrus Terminal Curl - Thrips?
I suspect that you are experiencing a tiny pest called citrus thrips
which we discuss at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm
I'm sorry but the information does not include the ring you have
mentioned as part of the pest id.
Largely a cosmetic issue, although for a small or recently planted tree
this could be more serious, due to the percentage of canopy involved.
However, this summary suggests that use of an insecticide could effect
fruit set.
I'm hoping that in posting this, a fellow Master Gardener would have
better input for you.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
pkrzemien@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a dwarf mandarin orange.
> The ends of the stem are brown and dead
> while the rest of the tree appears healthy.
> Upon closer inspection there is a little
> ring that separates the healthy and
> the dead part of the tree.
> What is it and what is the recommended
> cure or treatment for this? Thanks in
> advance for your help.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 12:28:39 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 12:28:39 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Garden Decimated
This sounds like a very good question to take to the weekly diagnosis meeting at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. It's held every Friday morning. You don't have to be there, just bring some samples of the plant material that has died and a detailed description of what you are experiencing, what your current cultural practices are, if anything unusual occurred [spraying in adjacent yard, e.g.]. They will respond
to you after the meeting.
Another option is to try the satellite office nearest to you. They are listed at the same page where you originally placed this query.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mike-mad@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> A couple of weeks ago, every plant in my garden (including annuals, established shrubs, and perennials) appeared to have died overnight. All of the leaves were crisp, curled and brown. I cut off all the dead leaves and new growth appeared. I watched the garden everyday and it looked like it was making a comeback. Today I went out and everything is dead again. This has happened four times in the last year. There is no warning and it happens to EVERY PLANT overnight.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:13 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:13 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Nut grass in turf
Manage is the only chemical that I know of that will rid your turf of nut
grass. I have used it for several years with a moderate amount of sucess. In
some cases I have had to apply a third application.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:34 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:34 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Fertilizing citrus
Go ahead and fertilize now and then again around Labor Day.
You should be deep watering the citrus each time you water which should
be every 10 to 14 days in summer in the low desert.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:47 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:16:47 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] FIcus trees with yellow leaves
Yellow leaves could be an indication of either over or under watering plus
other items. Please advise me about your irrigation. How often and how much
do you water both the grass and the Ficus? Are the ficus located in the turf?
Is there anything else that you can tell me about the Ficus with the yellow
leaves? Is the grade level? Is there calache on your property and specificly
under the tree in question?
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:17:23 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:17:23 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning trees
There are very few trees that must be pruned. In the case of some fruit
trees, the trees are pruned in the spring to enhance the fruit crop. Trees
are pruned to remove broken or damaged branches, to remove dead wood, to
correct a malformed part of the tree, to shape the tree or to keep it within
bounds.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:34:24 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 16:34:24 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Jacaranda trees
Hi Shirley and Ron,
Hi temperatures should not be a problem with growing The Jacaranda in the
Dallas area for they revel in the heat. The one problem that you have is the
lower winter temperatures. Jacarandas and especially the young trees will be
damaged at 25 degree F. I lived in the Dallas area for awhile and don't
remember seeing any Jacarandas.
Why not call your county extension office, they would have a better
handle on what is going on there. All my experience is in the low desert of
southern Arizona.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
.
From swthikr@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:13:51 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:13:51 -0700 (MST)
From: swthikr@aol.com swthikr@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
When should you plant lime trees?
From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:19:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:19:50 -0700 (MST)
From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net raymond.tierney2@gte.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We purchased three 4" potted tomato plants
planted them about month or more ago. They now have grown to about three feet in height and width, with large thick stems and many leaves, also yellow flowers. However we seen only one small tomato. Question: Is this normal? We have fed them with miracle grow in addition to planting in good soil. Any response will be appreciated.
From nanmval@pacbell.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:30:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 11:30:19 -0700 (MST)
From: nanmval@pacbell.net nanmval@pacbell.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have a plum tree in our backyard in California and the bluejays are always eating the plums. How can we stop this?
From Logroll603@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:24:10 EDT
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:24:10 EDT
From: Logroll603@aol.com Logroll603@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash
I live in Arizona Traditions in Surprise. We have a new home as of May 99.
All of our vegetation was planted by a landscaper. My problem appears to lie
with a Shamel Ash that is planted in the front. I have a Shamel Ash in the
rear that is doing wonderfully. The Ash receives three hours of water on a
drip system every 10 days.
When it was first installed I noticed some brown and also curled leaves. The
landscaper told me it was sun burn and would go away with time. The tree did
very well the early part of the year until a month or so ago when I have a
lot of leaves that are turning brown at the front and a curling effect. I did
some research on the Internet and came up with a possible Iron Chlorosis
diagnosis. I really can't see another reason for this condition. I am going
to buy some iron chealtes and apply it around the base and work it into the
soil. In Austin, I used liquid iron for my three Southern Magnolias and they
were always green. Funny in that I had Arizona and Green Ash trees on the
Austin Property and never gave them any iron supplement and they thrived.
What other problem could be causing this browning and curling of the leaves
on my Shamel Ash?
George Nichols
Arizona Traditions
Surprise, AZ
Logroll603 @aol.com
GeorgeNichols@email.msn.com
FAX: 1-623-214-3270
From scd62@aol.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:20:59 -0700 (MST)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:20:59 -0700 (MST)
From: scd62@aol.com scd62@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I would like to know how to plant horseradish and when is the best time to do so. A friend gave me some to plant but I don't know much about it.
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:50:04 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 17:50:04 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] proper care of madagascar palm
I'd like to refer you to an archived response to a similar question
regarding Madagascar Palm. You can view the information at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000793.html
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Rick Smith wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Can someone tell me how to take care of my new madagascar palm. It is
> potted and approx. 5 feet tall. What is the best location, light
> requirements, water, feeding, etc.
> I live in coastal San Diego county. Any help would be greatly
> appreciated.
> thank you
> rick
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 18:08:00 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 18:08:00 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re:Horseradish
I have never grown horseradish myself but I did find information on it in my copy of Rodale's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Herbs. Here is what it
says: Horseradish is most often cultivated from root cuttings. These should be straight, young roots, about 8 or 9 inches long and 1/2 inch wide.
Each cutting should have a bud or a growing point, although pieces will develop new buds (or crowns) in the ground. The roots grow out, not down,
and should be placed 12 to 18 inches apart each way and 12 to 15 inches deep. When planting, carefully remove all side roots from each set, then
drop the cutting into the hole, and fill in by trickling a fine soil around them.
You will have the best results with a rich soil that is high in organic matter. Since the root is the portion for which the plant is most commonly
grown, you should take care to provide a deeply cultivated soil, free of stones that could cause gouges in your crop.
Prepare the soil as early in the spring as possible. In fact, most herb growers recommend you work the soil in January for a February planting.
Till deeply and fertilize generously with well-rotted manure and compost. Water the bed well and frequently and keep the bed weed-free.
Horseradish is an herb that spreads rapidly, quickly taking over the area in which it is planted, and it is very difficult to eradicate. Be sure to
give it plenty of room, perhaps in an isolated spot in the garden. Or, you could contain it by placing it in the ground in a bottomless 5-gallon
container. When you want to remove it completely, take pains to discard every lingering piece of root, as even the tiniest rootlet will produce
another plant. The book also states that the long, white, tapering root produces a 2-3 ft high stem in the second year.
I would also suggest you contact the Arizona Herb Association for any further information about growing this herb in our particular climate. You can
find information about contacting this group at: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/azherb/index.html
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
scd62@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to know how to plant horseradish and when is the best time to do so. A friend gave me some to plant but I don't know much about it.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:51:54 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 20:51:54 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Horse
In Arizona, horse radish is planted after November 1 at mid elevations and
around March or April at the higher elevations. It is not considered to be
adapted to the low desert but if you want to try it anyway, wintertime
would be best. -Olin
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 5:20 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> I would like to know how to plant horseradish and when is the best time
to do so. A friend gave me some to plant but I don't know much about it.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
From mgovig@home.com Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:58:18 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:58:18 -0700
From: Michele Govig mgovig@home.com
Subject: [AG] Mushrooms in Bermuda lawn
I spend about 15 minutes every morning picking mushrooms out of my lawn.
Some of them are ghostly green on the underside and I have read that they
can be very poisonous. I only water 1x per week and try to get the mushrooms
before they open. I have young kids and dogs so I worry about putting down
a fungicide, but I also worry about them eating a mushroom. Does anybody
have a solution. Also, is it ok to put earthworms purchased at a fishing
store into my gardens?
Michele Govig
Mgovig@home.com
From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:36:01 -0700
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 21:36:01 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Time to Plant Summer and Winter Flowers?
Depends on what you want to plant. I suggest going to the table at url
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1100table.pdf
then look up the recommended planting date for the flowers you wish to
plant.
Deciduous fruit trees and deciduous shade trees are pruned when dormant,
form mid December through January in the low desert. See url
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1139.pdf
Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
> When is the best time of year to:
> -plant summer flowers
> -plant winter flowers
> -trim trees
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:39:58 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:39:58 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Planting Citrus
Citrus is best planted in early spring after the danger of frost is past.
Citrus is often planted in the fall, but care must be taken to adequately
protect them from any freezing temperatures.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:40:00 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:40:00 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash
George, The Shamel Ash is somewhat susceptable to to heat, sun and wind burn,
and the tree that is in your front yard probably gets a hotter blast of air
than the one in the back yard. I suspect that you may not be watering your
year old trees enough. I would cut that interval to 7 days and be sure that
the water penetrates to in excess of 3 feet deep. Next year you should be
able to go to the 10 day interval. You can measure that with a steel bar, it
will penetrate easily to the depth th water has penetrated.
The identifying signs of iron chlorosis are new leaves that first turn
light green and then yellow with the veins remaining dark green. Iron
chelates is a recommended solution provided that the soil is not too wet.
Iron chelates won't do any harm, but are expensive and especially if you do
not need them.
The soil and growing conditions are quite different here in Phoenix
from Austin, Texas. In Phoenix the soil is more alkaline, our summers are
hotter and dryer and we have less rainfall. Plants will react differently.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:40:01 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 00:40:01 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Silver Maple not native
You must be from the northern part of the United States since you have Silver
Maples and they just won't survive in the low desert of Arizona.
I would suggest that you contact your county extension office where
they should be able to answer your question.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:07:11 -0700
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 09:07:11 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] question
Individual: Suzen
Email: Suzen1@AOL.com
City: TEMPE State: Arizona
Country: U.S.A.
Comment: I have a beautiful peach tree and plan on moving to
another location. I have searched everywhere and am still looking for
an answer to my question. Which
is, how can I start a peach tree from one of the pits?I would
really apperciate the answer as soon
as possible. Thank you for your time, understanding and cooperation!!
Category: Public
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~
From molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:37:45 -0700
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:37:45 -0700
From: Mary Olsen molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Mushrooms in Bermuda lawn
At 07:58 PM 6/25/00 -0700, you wrote:
>arid_gardener
>I spend about 15 minutes every morning picking mushrooms out of my lawn.
>Some of them are ghostly green on the underside and I have read that they
>can be very poisonous. I only water 1x per week and try to get the mushrooms
>before they open. I have young kids and dogs so I worry about putting down
>a fungicide, but I also worry about them eating a mushroom. Does anybody
>have a solution. Also, is it ok to put earthworms purchased at a fishing
>store into my gardens?
If the mushrooms are white to tan on the top and have green spores (which
would make the bottom look green) it is probably Chlorophyllum, a common
mushroom in lawns. This mushroom is not deadly but is toxic and is known
to cause stomach cramps. You certainly would not want anyone to eat it.
The fungus is living in the thatch or other organic matter in the grass and
the mushrooms are its reproductive structure.
I recommend raking or dethatching the grass and watering early in the day
so it dries out quickly on top. This should reduce the growth of the fungus
and help your lawn as well. Fungicides would not be effective. Keep taking
out the mushrooms.
Mary Olsen, Extension Plant Pathologist
Dr. Mary Olsen
Associate Extension Specialist
Dept. of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204
University of Arizona
Tucson, AZ 85721
phone 520-626-2681
email molsen@ag.arizona.edu
From annettetb@yahoo.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:10:17 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 10:10:17 -0700 (MST)
From: annettetb@yahoo.com annettetb@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have just moved into a newly built home in Apache Junction, Az and we would like to plant a Bermuda lawn. Our ground is very hard, rocky, and slow draining. What should we do to prepare for and plant a lawn? Would sod be better?
From stevek@heraeusmtd.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:35:25 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 12:35:25 -0700 (MST)
From: stevek@heraeusmtd.com stevek@heraeusmtd.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Small black bugs keep getting on a Hibiscus bush. What are they and what can control them?
From fdpmm@goodnet.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:17:52 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:17:52 -0700 (MST)
From: fdpmm@goodnet.com fdpmm@goodnet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
From: F.Don Manthe
To:
Subject: sulfur spray
Date: Monday, June 26, 2000 1:00 PM
I need to know where I can obtain a liquid suspension of sulfur for spray
material on grapes . In the past I have used Uniflow Sulfur made by
Leffingwell with six pounds of sulfur per gallon. At this time I am unable
to find this product in the Phoenix Area but would like to find out who
sells this or similar material that I can use on in vineyard.
Any information about this product would be appreciated
THANK YOU !!
Frank D Manthe
Chateau Manthe fdpmm@goodnet.com
317 E Phoenix St
Payson AZ 85541
From Suzen1@AOL.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:17:54 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 13:17:54 -0700 (MST)
From: Suzen1@AOL.com Suzen1@AOL.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a beautiful peach tree I planted five years ago. Now I am going to be moving and REALLY would like to know: How can I start another peach tree from a pit? I reside in Tempe.
Thank you for your time knowledge and cooperation!!
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:46:09 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:46:09 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Hibiscus Society
Hello,
You have the American Hibiscus Society in Florida. You can reach them on
line via http:\\www.trop-hibiscus.com
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/4/00 4:36:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lpmooney@home.com
writes:
<< Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Date: 6/4/00 4:36:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time
From: lpmooney@home.com
Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
arid_gardener
How do you think a hibiscus trees would look for a private fence in Florida
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:56:56 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:56:56 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Peach tree from seed
Hello,
About 99% of the time you would be disappointed in the plant produced by the
peach pit of your beloved tree. The seed carries the genes from your tree
and another unknown. The resulting tree probably would not be like the one
you want. Most of the time propagation by cuttings is done to insure that
you will get the same tree but then, is your tree grafted on another root
stock? In my opinion your best bet is to identify the variety of peach tree
you have and buy another one at a nursery. You might also consider the years
it would take for a tree grown from a seed to reach an age where it will
produce fruit.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/26/00 1:31:26 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
Suzen1@aol.com writes:
<< Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Date: 6/26/00 1:31:26 PM US Mountain Standard Time
From: Suzen1@aol.com
Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
arid_gardener
I have a beautiful peach tree I planted five years ago. Now I am going to
be moving and REALLY would like to know: How can I start another peach tree
from a pit? I reside in Tempe.
Thank you for your time knowledge and cooperation!!
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:33:21 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:33:21 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm
Hi Joe,
I found two addresses where you might find help with your Sago Palm
questions. The last one has a place for you to ask questions via E-Mail. I
hope this helps.
http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/seedplants/cycadophyta/cycads.html
www.cycad.org
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/21/00 11:07:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
joetolosa@earthlink.net writes:
<< Subj: Re: Sago Palm
Date: 6/21/00 11:07:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: joetolosa@earthlink.net (Joe Tolosa)
To: JeanSciFi@aol.com
Hi JeanSciFi, I picked up your e maill address on the website for Sago
Palms, I thought you were in that field. I will appreciate if you can find
something. I noticed a Rincon Gardens on the website but their e mail
address was not complete. I'll be looking to hear from you. Ciao joe tolosa
-
From valpogrl@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:16:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:16:50 -0700 (MST)
From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hi,
I am currently seeing several bugs which I cannot identify. They are about 1/2 inch long, 1/8 inch wide, red and black mottled body with a solid black rear with 2 distinctive white spots on the black. They have small antennae and 6 legs. They do not have a beetle type body. I have lots of pepper plants and squash. However, I have only seen them on my tomatoes, not the plant but only on the fruit. I am a totally organic gardener and need to know if these are beneficials or pests.
Thank you,
Cindy Ciotti
From Barlloy@webtv.net Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:52:14 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:52:14 -0700 (MST)
From: Barlloy@webtv.net Barlloy@webtv.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have 5 queen palms in our back yard that are 22 years old. All have been extremely healthy for that entire period. Just recently one of them has developed yellow drooping fronds and despite applications of Miracle Grow and heavy watering, the tree appears to be dead. Is there anything that we should or could do to avoid losing this tree?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 20:31:35 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 20:31:35 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Queen palm dying
Doctoring sick Queen Palms is not a do it your self project. I would
recommend that you contact a Certified Arborist to get an opinion on whether
or not the tree can be saved and the cost of treatment. But do not apply any
more Miracle Grow to your palms. Palms do not handle welll fertilizer that is
high in phosphorus and most Miricle Grows that I ve seen in the stores are
15-30-15. Palms require a special palm fertilizer.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:04:27 -0700
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 18:04:27 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Garden Decimated]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------23DE8BC9B5145B3E42262A77
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thought everyone would find THIS one of interest! Linda
--------------23DE8BC9B5145B3E42262A77
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-Path:
Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net
Received: (qmail 4495 invoked by uid 0); 27 Jun 2000 00:03:51 -0000
Received: from mail8.uswest.net (204.147.80.26)
by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 27 Jun 2000 00:03:51 -0000
Received: (qmail 92396 invoked from network); 27 Jun 2000 00:03:50 -0000
Received: from ha1.rdc1.az.home.com (HELO mail.rdc1.az.home.com) (24.1.240.66)
by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 27 Jun 2000 00:03:50 -0000
Received: from cx118679a ([24.1.246.111]) by mail.rdc1.az.home.com
(InterMail vM.4.01.02.00 201-229-116) with SMTP
id <20000627000347.CMJF12685.mail.rdc1.az.home.com@cx118679a>
for ; Mon, 26 Jun 2000 17:03:47 -0700
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:57:50 -0700
Message-ID: <00c501bfdfca$56528660$6ff60118@phnx2.az.home.com>
From: "Mike and Mad Pearce"
To: "Linda Guy"
Reply-To: "Mike and Mad Pearce"
References: <200006181205.FAA05586@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39565D67.4FC45B77@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Garden Decimated
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Thanks for your response. I think I figured out the problem. Our pool
company (Pool Chlor) has a new person who was releasing chlorine gas into
the air in massive quantities (he's supposed to slow release it--obviously).
A supervisor from the company came out and said, yeah, that's what happened.
They didn't offer to pay for anything but at least the mystery is solved.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linda Guy"
To:
Cc: "Arid gardener server"
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 12:28 PM
Subject: Garden Decimated
> This sounds like a very good question to take to the weekly diagnosis
meeting at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office, 4341 E.
Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040. It's held every Friday morning. You
don't have to be there, just bring some samples of the plant material that
has died and a detailed description of what you are experiencing, what your
current cultural practices are, if anything unusual occurred [spraying in
adjacent yard, e.g.]. They will respond
> to you after the meeting.
>
> Another option is to try the satellite office nearest to you. They are
listed at the same page where you originally placed this query.
>
> Linda Guy
> Master Gardener
>
> mike-mad@home.com wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > A couple of weeks ago, every plant in my garden (including annuals,
established shrubs, and perennials) appeared to have died overnight. All of
the leaves were crisp, curled and brown. I cut off all the dead leaves and
new growth appeared. I watched the garden everyday and it looked like it
was making a comeback. Today I went out and everything is dead again. This
has happened four times in the last year. There is no warning and it
happens to EVERY PLANT overnight.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
>
--------------23DE8BC9B5145B3E42262A77--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:08:51 EDT
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 21:08:51 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] TRansplanting desert trees in June
Transplanting the Cacti and the Cholla will work fine, just leave the roots
out of the ground for at least a week so that the cut roots will seal.
It will be tough on the Mesquite and the Ironwood particularly if you
can't transplant them with a dirt root ball. My suggestion would be to
selectively cut the tops back not more than 25%, spray the top with an
antitranspirant ( this will cut down on the moisture that transpires through
the leaves ). If the new planting hole is close by get the tree in the
ground immediately , start the hose running immediately and fill the hole
with dirt. Be sure that it is watered adequately. I saved two Olive tree
standards that had to be planted bareroot in June by doing all the things
I've suggested plus I covered them with umbrellas for about two months.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From mandisapcrawley@excite.com Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:39:50 -0700 (MST)
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 19:39:50 -0700 (MST)
From: mandisapcrawley@excite.com mandisapcrawley@excite.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
June 26, 2000 10:45pm est.
I have a dogwood seedling I planted in April. It was doing excellent, untill a friend (who thought he was helping)weedwacked the bark off 90% of the way around. Yesterday, when I found it, I wraped a cloth around it and taped it. I keep it watred day and night. The leaves have shriveled and are almost criped. Please respond right away it is desprate for water!!
Thank you
Mandi
From ClaireASP@aol.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:05:25 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 11:05:25 -0700 (MST)
From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a dwarf Crepe Myrtle;this is it's second summer in the ground.I noticed that the tips of it's leaves have turned brown, like they are burnt. It is planted on the west side of my house, so it gets full afternoon sun. Is it too hot for it there, or might it be a soil problem? Thanks for your help.
From kdbren@worldnet.att.net Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:06:09 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:06:09 -0700 (MST)
From: kdbren@worldnet.att.net kdbren@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Why would 2 or 3 leaves of a blue agave plant all of a sudden turn on their sides and then flop down and not stand up straight any longer? The rest of the plant looks fine. Could this be due to under-watering?
From jeannine@ix.net.com.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:12:07 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 13:12:07 -0700 (MST)
From: jeannine@ix.net.com.com jeannine@ix.net.com.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do I know when the worms have started getting into the ears of corn?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:33:32 EDT
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 18:33:32 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Crepe Myrtle with leaf burn
The Crepe Myrtle does not like our alkaline soil, our hot burning winds, the
late afternoon sun from being planted on the west side of the house, and the
salt left over when the water in the root zone evaporates.
You can help the situation by being sure to deep water the Crepe Myrtle
each time you water ( 2 to 3 feet deep ) every week to 10 days in the
summer. Additionally once a month in the summer double the amount of water
applied. This will help flush out the salt that has collected in the root
zone. Further apply about 2 pounds of gypsum around the tree, again to help
get rid of the salt. Any type of mulch around the plant would be helpful.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:57:45 -0700
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:57:45 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Agave
The symptoms you describe could be underwatering of your agave, especially given the high heat of a couple of weeks ago. It is also possible that your agave has been riddled by the larvae of the agave snout weevil.
I am sorry to say there is no cure for this problem. Agaves with the weevil infestation typically look just fine, then quickly begin to flop and collapse, often leaving only the central bud of leaves standing like a
steeple. Try watering it very well, it should respond to that is 4-5 days if that was the problem, otherwise, my condolences.
Mary
From ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:51:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 15:51:55 -0700 (MST)
From: ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com ehousey@eng.mcd.mot.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hi!
I am growing watermelon and honeydew melon.
I have 6 of each. The watermelon vines
are TAKING OVER my backyard, but I only have
2 melons! I planted them in eary May. As
for the honeydew, I'd say there are around 8
or so. I picked one but have not cut it open
yet.
I fertilized only twice with miracle grow.
Everything is growing so well I didn't think
I needed anything else (except daily water!)
Questions:
Why do I have so many watermelon
vines but only 2 melons (I planted last
year and had a much better yield).
How can I tell when a honeydew melon is ripe?
Thanks much!
Ed
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:35:07 EDT
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:35:07 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Butia Palm
Hi Douglas,
With your training it would be nice to have you help us out in answering
questions on the arid_gardener. We get so behind. I have over 400 e-mails
in my mail box right now. If your interested I'll give you more information.
It is all just volunteer work that some of the master gardeners from
Maricopa County elect to do.
I'm afraid I can't help you with a recipe. About all I know is that the
fruit of the Butia palm is edible. You know that doesn't always mean tasty.
:) The Maricopa County Extension office does have a division that deals with
food. You might contact them for a start. They are located at 4341 East
Broadway in Phoenix.
I'll post your e-mail on the arid_gardenr board just in case someone
subscribed has more information.
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/26/00 8:41:37 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
dougyes@peoplepc.com writes:
<< Subj: Butia Palm
Date: 6/26/00 8:41:37 PM US Mountain Standard Time
From: dougyes@peoplepc.com (Douglas Click)
To: JeanSciFi@aol.com
Dear Jean,
Someone had written to you about 2 Butia palms where one was doing poorly. I
had the same problem. I watered and fertilized alot and after two years tha
poor one has come on strong.
My question; Do you have any recepies for Butia palm fruits? We are going
to have a bumper crop this year.
Sincerely,
Douglas Glick
Horticulturist
From adambiker@prodigy.net Tue, 27 Jun 2000 16:38:22 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 16:38:22 -0700 (MST)
From: adambiker@prodigy.net adambiker@prodigy.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hello....
Need your help in finding what plants(annuals) do well in a 12ft windowbox in full sun...
Appreciate your help...Thanks
From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:04:05 -0700
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:04:05 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Corn Earworms
----- Original Message ----- From:
> How do I know when the worms have started getting into the ears of corn?
You can sometimes evade the corn earworm by planting early in the spring
(around mid February) or as late as possible for the fall crop (around
Labor Day). But with corn planted at the optimum time for growth (March
and August) you will almost always have earworms in the low desert. Within
a few days after the moth lays the eggs, the egg hatches and the larva
crawls into the ears. I have heard it is possible to detect the eggs on
the silk but have never been successful. With earworm damage, the tip of
the ear becomes soft. Bt applied to the silks when the silks first emerge
may kill the larva before it gets into the ear but will interfere with
pollination to some extent. On most, but not all, sweetcorn varieties,
the silks begin to turn brown after pollination is complete. At this time,
the worm can be killed by injecting mineral oil into the tips but a dead
worm with its frass deposits is no less gross than a live one. We usually
just cut off the damaged tips and try not to think about it. The worms can
also be controlled successfully using Sevin as a preventative but we no
longer use chemical insecticides on edibles.
An excellent question. Hope somebody has a better answer.
Olin Miller
From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:22:16 -0700
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 22:22:16 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Waterelon Yield/Henewdew Maturity
Normal yield for watermelons should be 3 to 4 per plant . Could be that
the variety did nor receive pollination or is poorly adapted. With
incomplete pollination, the melon would be deformed but with no pollination
the blossom drops from the plant after a few days. Pollination needs to
occur during the short period when the blossom is open.
Unlike muskmelons which "slip" from the vine with light pressure when ripe,
true cantaloupes like honeydews need to be cut from the vine and it is more
difficult to tell when they are ripe. One indicator is the color of the
rind. It will be a pale creamlike yellow or possibly white depending on
the cultivar. The blossom end may also be soft.
Olin Miller
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 3:51 PM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> Hi!
>
> I am growing watermelon and honeydew melon.
> I have 6 of each. The watermelon vines
> are TAKING OVER my backyard, but I only have
> 2 melons! I planted them in eary May. As
> for the honeydew, I'd say there are around 8
> or so. I picked one but have not cut it open
> yet.
>
> I fertilized only twice with miracle grow.
> Everything is growing so well I didn't think
> I needed anything else (except daily water!)
>
> Questions:
>
> Why do I have so many watermelon
> vines but only 2 melons (I planted last
> year and had a much better yield).
>
> How can I tell when a honeydew melon is ripe?
>
> Thanks much!
> Ed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:21:47 -0700
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 07:21:47 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Gray leaves on zucchini]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------24386F5FA71E12B7648B6307
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Here is a response from George Brookbank on a question
regarding gray leaves on a zucchini plant. Thought the
response may benefit others at some time:
Thank you for your e-mail about a squash plant with grey (or
silvery) leaves.
I've just come back from a vacation and that's why I've
been slow in
replying.
Your gardene seems to be doing evrything right. I wonder
whether "watering
once a week with three inches" means that the soil is soaked
down to three
inches (which is good) or that he puts on three inches of
water (which is, I
think, excessive).
Anyway, some kinds of summer squash do have silvery leaves
and there's
nothing wrong. There are completely silvery, partially
silvery, and mottled
silvery inbstead of being the usual dark green familiar
uniform color.
However, red spider mite will give a silvery tinge to the
leaves but in this
case the plant will look sickly with drooping leaves and
you'll see the
webbing. From what you say. his plants are doing well.
I think he's got a variety variation and nothing to worry
about. And he sems
to be doing the right things.
Best wishes. George
--------------24386F5FA71E12B7648B6307
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-Path:
Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net
Received: (qmail 2243 invoked by uid 0); 28 Jun 2000 12:43:51 -0000
Received: from mail2.uswest.net (204.147.80.18)
by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Jun 2000 12:43:51 -0000
Received: (qmail 18409 invoked from network); 28 Jun 2000 12:43:49 -0000
Received: from imo-r19.mx.aol.com (152.163.225.73)
by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Jun 2000 12:43:49 -0000
Received: from WGeoB@aol.com
by imo-r19.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v27.10.) id 9.9.76aa288 (4556)
for ; Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:43:44 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 08:43:44 EDT
Message-ID: <9.76aa288.268b4d00@aol.com>
From: WGeoB@aol.com
To: sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: Re: Gray leaves on zucchini
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 103
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Dear Sue,
Thank you for your e-mail about a squash plant with grey (or silvery) leaves.
I've just come back from a vacation and that's why I've been slow in
replying.
Your gardene seems to be doing evrything right. I wonder whether "watering
once a week with three inches" means that the soil is soaked down to three
inches (which is good) or that he puts on three inches of water (which is, I
think, excessive).
Anyway, some kinds of summer squash do have silvery leaves and there's
nothing wrong. There are completely silvery, partially silvery, and mottled
silvery inbstead of being the usual dark green familiar uniform color.
However, red spider mite will give a silvery tinge to the leaves but in this
case the plant will look sickly with drooping leaves and you'll see the
webbing. From what you say. his plants are doing well.
I think he's got a variety variation and nothing to worry about. And he sems
to be doing the right things.
Best wishes. George
--------------24386F5FA71E12B7648B6307--
From saz621@primenet.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:41:21 -0700
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:41:21 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Butia Palm
Dear Doug and all,
The jelly palm, Butia capitata, is an erratic performer here in the Valley. Many
are subject to extreme chlorosis so vigilance with chelated iron treatments in
required. Those that do best appear to be growing in deep soils, with deep
watering. My husband and I have made jelly palm jelly years ago while living in
New Orleans. I had no specific recipe, I basically used the same proportions I
would for grape jelly just went at it. I didn't personally think it tasted all
that great, just sort of sweet bland, but then who knows. I found them much more
interesting to just eat out of hand. Although I have not seen it done personally,
I wonder how they would taste dried, like their relative the date?
Mary Irish
From lmiles566@aol.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:20:43 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 19:20:43 -0700 (MST)
From: lmiles566@aol.com lmiles566@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a visitor coming in two weeks who is an orchid enthusiast and would like to take him somewhere to see what happens in the Valley. Do you have any suggestions?
From gaye.clark@asu.edu Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:19:05 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:19:05 -0700 (MST)
From: gaye.clark@asu.edu gaye.clark@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have three hibiscus trees. they are all about 5-6 years old. About 2-2.5 weeks ago, one of them suddenly had wilted leaves and it looks dead. Although it's getting the same amount of water as the others, and we did nothing different to it. The branches are green when I bend them. I want to save it but dont know how to know what is wrong with it. Could it have an insect eating the roots or something? Thanks.
From PoetEvan@aol.com Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:17:19 -0700 (MST)
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2000 21:17:19 -0700 (MST)
From: PoetEvan@aol.com PoetEvan@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Some apples on my tree have a brown spot which usually begins on the botton, becomes larger, soften and rots, and eventually infects the entire apple.
What spray should I use? Is there more than one solution to the problem?
I recently bougth my house, I didn't plant the tree;I assume taht the apples are golden delicious.
From GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:12:00 -0700
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 10:12:00 -0700
From: Gaye Clark GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] hibiscus
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
--Boundary_(ID_VkEUK8NGu6oNQNcsDSgapQ)
Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I couldn't find anything on your website about Hibiscus...not knowing the
botanical name. Anew, I have three hibiscus trees all about 5-6 years old.
They all leafed out and were doing beautifully. Then about two weeks ago,
one suddenly had all of its leaves wilt completely. They are all getting the
same amount of water. The branches are green...I went out and bent one. It
looks dead however. What could be wrong? I know it got hot really fast and
suddenly, but it didn't seem to bother the other two. I want to save it.
Thanks.
--Boundary_(ID_VkEUK8NGu6oNQNcsDSgapQ)
Content-type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
hibiscus
I couldn't find anything on your =
website about Hibiscus...not knowing the botanical name. Anew, I have =
three hibiscus trees all about 5-6 years old. They all leafed out and =
were doing beautifully. Then about two weeks ago, one suddenly had all =
of its leaves wilt completely. They are all getting the same amount of =
water. The branches are green...I went out and bent one. It looks dead =
however. What could be wrong? I know it got hot really fast and =
suddenly, but it didn't seem to bother the other two. I want to save =
it. Thanks.
--Boundary_(ID_VkEUK8NGu6oNQNcsDSgapQ)--
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:12:40 -0700
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:12:40 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Identify citrus leaf problem from this picture?
--------------596D8DB454BDF1A579083017
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Brian,
This was provided by Dr. Glenn Wright in the UA Yuma facility. He is our
citrus specialist.
Upon first glance, it appears to be mesophyll collapse. MC occurs on
exposed leaves, especially on those on the south or west side of the
tree, or those close to a
sidewalk, wall or other structure that would cause heat to be reflected
back upon the plant. This is fairly common in the desert. Otherwise,
it could be herbicide damage, however the herbicides that would cause
this type of symptom are not
labelled for homeowner use, thus this seems fairly unlikely.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Brian White wrote:
> My new Lisbon Lemon on flyingdragon rootstock (2-3yrs old) has a
> problem that has grown from a few leaves to a lot of leaves in about 2
> weeks. A picture is attached. To describe it: the leaves look green
> with normal shape but with many small spots progressing to larger
> spots. The color appears nearly white for the very small spots to a
> slight yellowing for the larger spots. As the problem progresses the
> spots get larger and more yellow-to-lightbrown in color, looking as
> though something is killing small areas on the leaf without cutting
> through the leaf. I'm concerned not only for this tree but to avoid
> the same problem in my other citrus trees. Thanks,Brian Whitehome
> citrus grower
--------------596D8DB454BDF1A579083017
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Brian,
This was provided by Dr. Glenn Wright in the UA Yuma facility. He is
our citrus specialist.
Upon first glance, it appears to be mesophyll collapse. MC occurs
on exposed leaves, especially on those on the south or west side of the
tree, or those close to a
sidewalk, wall or other structure that would cause heat to be reflected
back upon the plant. This is fairly common in the desert. Otherwise,
it could be herbicide damage, however the herbicides that would cause this
type of symptom are not
labelled for homeowner use, thus this seems fairly unlikely.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Brian White wrote:
My new Lisbon Lemon
on flyingdragon rootstock (2-3yrs old) has a problem that has grown from
a few leaves to a lot of leaves in about 2 weeks. A picture is attached.
To describe it: the leaves look green with normal shape but with many small
spots progressing to larger spots. The color appears nearly white
for the very small spots to a slight yellowing for the larger spots.
As the problem progresses the spots get larger and more yellow-to-lightbrown
in color, looking as though something is killing small areas on the leaf
without cutting through the leaf. I'm concerned not only for this
tree but to avoid the same problem in my other citrus trees. Thanks,Brian
Whitehome citrus grower
--------------596D8DB454BDF1A579083017--
From Sabitac@home.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:30:45 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 13:30:45 -0700 (MST)
From: Sabitac@home.com Sabitac@home.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I live in the Ahwatukee area .My question is about my rose bushes,they look sturdy and disese free however the roses themselves look puny with very few petals and they have holes in them and curls up at the end.please help me to grow more healthy rose flowers.
Thank You,
Sabita
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 17:55:01 EDT
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 17:55:01 EDT
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] hibiscus
Hi,
You can ask questions about hibiscus at The American Hibiscus Society.
http://www.trop-hibiscus.com
JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener Volunteer
Apache Junction, AZ
In a message dated 6/28/00 11:25:12 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu writes:
<< Subj: [AG] hibiscus
Date: 6/28/00 11:25:12 AM US Mountain Standard Time
From: GAYE.LAKE@asu.edu (Gaye Clark)
Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu ('arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu')
I couldn't find anything on your website about Hibiscus...not knowing the
botanical name. Anew, I have three hibiscus trees all about 5-6 years old.
They all leafed out and were doing beautifully. Then about two weeks ago,
one suddenly had all of its leaves wilt completely. They are all getting the
same amount of water. The branches are green...I went out and bent one. It
looks dead however. What could be wrong? I know it got hot really fast and
suddenly, but it didn't seem to bother the other two. I want to save it.
Thanks.
--------------------
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:50:36 EDT
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:50:36 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Roses having the summer doldrums
Sabita, What you are seeing is pretty common for roses grown in the low
desert of Arizona unless you have taken some of the steps that the exhibitors
take to keep their roses looking better such as providing a shade screen,
mist or wash down daily ( this will also help to keep spider mites and
powdery mildew away ), provide a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bush,
be sure that the rose gets plenty of water ( deep watered a minimum of twice
a week ), and fertilize the rose every 6 weeks at half strength. If you are
deadheading the spent blooms, leave as many leaves as possible to provide the
bush with a maximum amount of shade.
If you find circular cuts in the leaves, they are made by cutter bees who
use the cutouts to build nests. Consequently since the bees do not ingest the
leaves there is nothing we can do to stop them.
If you haven't visited the rose garden at Mesa Community College, it is
time to do so if you love roses. You will find over 3000 roses ( the largest
garden in the southwest ) Plan to visit the garden on the 2nd thursday of any
month and come meet with the Mesa East Valley Rose Society who meets at 7:00
PM. Our goal is to help people grow better roses.
I'll be glad to try to answer any other rose questions you may have. Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:16:19 -0700
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 20:16:19 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Virus in an Email????
I have been in contact with querent Brian White, who sent me a
subsequent thank you for some information forwarded from Glenn Wright. A
subsequent note from him [ bwhite1@uswest.net ] had no verbiage but
transmitted a single attachment Happy99.exe. I'm not sure if I was the
only recipient, or if this went to our entire server list. That's why
I'm sending this note.
My Norton antivirus program engaged immediately and kept me from even
opening the attachment and infecting my hard drive. If any of you also
received this, my spouse advises that you hit [shift] and delete
simultaneouly, in lieu of just deleting this file. This deletes the file
without sending it to your recycle bin.
Brian, I've copied you in case you weren't aware that you are
'infected'!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:14:04 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:14:04 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Orchid Society of Arizona
What a thoughtful friend you are! Contact the principals of the local orchid society who have hyperlinks from our garden club listing at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Enjoy your friend's stay!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
lmiles566@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a visitor coming in two weeks who is an orchid enthusiast and would like to take him somewhere to see what happens in the Valley. Do you have any suggestions?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:24:29 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:24:29 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Sago Palm Yellowing
Specific discussion on sago palm care is in our online publication on palms at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals
As it will explain to you, this is not a true palm but an ancient, primitive plant, more akin to a conifer.
>From personal experience, my sago in a container prefers no sun, and even reflective heat needs to be kept to a minimum; thorough
watering [but be sure not to drown it]; and since it is a container, be sure you do not let the water in the drip tray be reabsorbed
which can cause salt damage. [Our container plant guru has actually convinced me to get rid of all my outdoor container drip trays. It's
so much easier than running around emptying themafter all the plants have ben watered!] I give most of my container plants a dilute
solution of liquid fertilizer monthly.
Good luck with your palm!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gdell@copperkey.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My sago palm is turning yellow. It receives afternoon shade, pleanty of water and was planted about 7 months ago. HELP..............
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:32:23 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:32:23 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Insect I.D.
I'm sorry to say that, after going through our Master Gardener Manual, Entomology chapter http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/index.html I was unable to locate a critter fitting your description. If you can catch one, you might like to bring it down to the Maricopa County Extension Office, which has a weekly diagnosis meeting, or visit with the staff of the satellite
office nearest to you.
All these addresses are listed on the same page where you originally placed your question. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
PhxPitt@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> This morning I saw, on a leaf of one of our young Lombardy poplar trees, a handsome beetle-like insect, somewhat larger than a leaf-footed bug. It had long legs and the "coffin-shaped" wingcases were colored a red almost as bright as tomato It was a little more than 1 " in length. Could you please identify and tell me if it is a pest in my organic garden, or a helpful predator.
> Yours,
> Timona M.Pittman, M.D.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:36:06 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 08:36:06 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Agave
The following information was provided by Mary Irish in a response a
while back. Perhaps the possibilities she lists pertain to your agaves,
There are a couple of possibilities for why your agave has closed up.
The most likely is that the plant is experiencing severe drought stress
from the transplant. While every two weeks is a good schedule for an
established plant, it might not be quite enough for a transplanted one.
This would be particularly true as the weather warms up. I would water
it weekly and be sure to water slowly and well all around the plant so
that you wet a large zone for the roots to grow.
The other possibilities are not so nice. Plants that have been infected
by the agave snout weevil, to which I am sorry to say the Agave
americana is very susceptible, have these symptoms: the outer leaves
begin to fall away from the central leaves leaving it exposed like a
spike, the central leaves fail to unfold and open remaining 'in bud'
until they finally fall over, and the entire plant begins to lose leaves
and die without flowering. There is nothing to be done once the
infestation of the weevil is that far along. Sorry.
The other not so nice, or otherwise depending on your perspective, is
that your plant is preparing to bloom. When bloom begins, and before you
see the spike, the central leaves tighten around the emerging flowering
stalk. If this is the case, you will see the flowering stalk very
shortly and voila, you get to see the extraordinary bloom of this agave.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
la_crisis@hotmail.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> When I asked my father, Joe Velazquez, this
> question he hemmed and hawed and said, "Well,
> ...could be... could be..." Then he gave me
> this address and said someone smarter than he
> would have to answer it. I seriously doubt
> that anyone could be smarter than my dad, but
> here goes.
> I have two agaves that are about four years
> old and two others that that were pups of the
> original two. The pups grow in the shade of
> the house and the parents grow in the sun.
> All are sturdy and growing, but the parents
> are getting to look rather yellowish. The
> younger plants are a strong green. Could this
> be from the heat of the sun or might it indicate
> some problem that I maybe could alleviate?
> I have never fed the poor things except for
> the addition of bagged mulch as a soil amend-
> ment when the bed was prepared lo so many
> years ago. The parents also get roof runoff
> on the rare occasion of a shower. They have
> a southern exposure. These are the first
> plants that have actually responded to my
> quasi-care, so I don't want to mess up caring
> for them.
> Thanks for your help.
> Chris Diaz
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From jscapitano@Yahoo.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:26:55 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 13:26:55 -0700 (MST)
From: jscapitano@Yahoo.com jscapitano@Yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hi I hope you can help me out I have an animal {don't know which one] that is eating my geranium plants at the base can you tell me what animals like geraniums and what I can do thanks so much
From susras@cs.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:49:41 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:49:41 -0700 (MST)
From: susras@cs.com susras@cs.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Have sugar cane and it is growing well. Developing large canes and is having a hard time staying upright. When do I harvest? Forgot to ask that when I got it.
Also, do loquats do well here, and under what conditions?
From azgogel@aol.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:29:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 21:29:56 -0700 (MST)
From: azgogel@aol.com azgogel@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Our yard measures @1700 sq' of Bermuda. How much iron needs to be applied and at what intervals as it tends to yellow easily?
what is causing my vinca to wilt and die this year, as last year it did very well? This is just our second summer in Arizona.
From mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:15:53 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 11:15:53 -0700
From: Marikelly Block mblock@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Fwd: Control of Mistletoe in Yard Trees
Hello to everyone in the master gardener listserv
Could someone please answer this question that we received from this
gentleman that was viewing our state extension web site. Please foward a
response to him and send me a carbon copy so that I know that his question
was answered.
Thanks again for your help
Kelly
>X-Mailer: Novell GroupWise Internet Agent 5.5.3.1
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:00:34 -0700
>From: "Roger Baumann"
>To:
>Subject: Control of Mistletoe in Yard Trees
>X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by Ag.Arizona.Edu id
QAA22807
>
>What info does the extension have on controlling mistletoe infestation in
yard plantings? What recommendations do you have for avoiding mistletoe
attack to trees? After mistletoe is found in trees, what ways are
recommended for removal to avoid return of the mistletoe?
>Thank you for your response.
>Roger Baumann
>
****************************
Marikelly Block
Applications Systems Analyst Senior
Cooperative Extension
University of Arizona
301 Forbes Bldg.
Tucson, AZ 85721
520-626-9174
mblock@ag.arizona.edu
From caringartscom@aol.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:58:24 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 09:58:24 -0700 (MST)
From: caringartscom@aol.com caringartscom@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I've lived in the same Hallcraft Home (43Ave & Bethany) for 41 years. Around 15 years ago, I planted giant sunflowers each late spring and I always was rewarded with GIANT sunflowers. Now, for the last five years, when I plant GIANTS, I get either nothing or small sunflowers with the same seeds. I thought it might have been due to replacing my wooden fence with a block wall (and the residue from the cement, etc.). This year, I planted at another location in the yard with the same results. How can I again get GIANT sunflowers to grow?
From jkafora@aol.com Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:30:22 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:30:22 -0700 (MST)
From: jkafora@aol.com jkafora@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a Queen Palm on my property for two years. The problem is:
There is no center crown,therefore, the tree is not growing. There are two large green fronds, but no opening, no new growth. How can this problem be solved?
Please advise. I await your reply.
From lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 06:44:11 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 06:44:11 -0700 (MST)
From: lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net lindasacredheart57santoro@att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have planted bell peppers for the first
time.
I want to make red pepper relish but do not
know how to tell when the pepper is ripe
enough to take from the plant and use.
Thank you.
Linda
From SAHend@webtv.net Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:36:40 -0700 (MST)
Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 19:36:40 -0700 (MST)
From: SAHend@webtv.net SAHend@webtv.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Does fish oil repel birds from fruit trees? If so, where can I purchase it?
Thank you!
From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:37:46 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:37:46 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Re:Queen palm
I am a little concerned about your description of no central crown. Palms only grow from one central growing point, if it isn't there the plant is dead. But I think
you might mean that it is not producing new growth, which might be just as serious. Many palms develop a fungal infection in the crown that will eventually kill the
plant. It can be treated with a Bordeaux mix, readily available at garden centers and nurseries, but if the plant is large it can be difficult to apply or if the
infection has been ongoing for a long time, it may not work. Even though Queen Palms are sold here in great numbers, they have a difficult time here in our soils and
in the heat. Most do not look as good as they could, most grow in increasing amounts of stress, and few live their entire life span. If you think your plant is still
alive try to keep it well and particularly deeply watered. Keep the soil enriched with compost, to which sulphur and/or chelated iron are regularly applied. Good
luck,
Mary Irish
jkafora@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a Queen Palm on my property for two years. The problem is:
> There is no center crown,therefore, the tree is not growing. There are two large green fronds, but no opening, no new growth. How can this problem be solved?
>
> Please advise. I await your reply.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:39:14 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 16:39:14 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
The GIANT in giant sunflowers is genetically driven, meaning it all a matter of the variety. I would recommend that you change suppliers, or get giants from two or three companies and see if you get the same results.
Mary
caringartscom@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I've lived in the same Hallcraft Home (43Ave & Bethany) for 41 years. Around 15 years ago, I planted giant sunflowers each late spring and I always was rewarded with GIANT sunflowers. Now, for the last five years, when I plant GIANTS, I get either nothing or small sunflowers with the same seeds. I thought it might have been due to replacing my wooden fence with a block wall (and the residue from the cement, etc.). This year, I planted at another location in the yard with the same results. How can I again get GIANT sunflowers to grow?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:30:02 EDT
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:30:02 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Fwd: Iron, How much to apply
--part1_28.75dfd5c.268d440a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
The best advice I can give you about how much iron to apply is to read the
label on the package.
Vinca is susceptable to one of the water mold fungi which can wipe out
a flower bed in a short time. If the leaves have turned yellow, the stems at
the soil line are shrunken and brownish in color the fungi have invaded your
flower bed.. Over watering will cause the fungus to spred much more rapidly.
If your winter annuals in this bed included Pansies or Petunias, they are
hosts to the same fungi that is affecting the vinca. Try something else next
fall that will not be a host to the water mold fungi.
Vinca should be allowed to almost completely dry out befor you apply
water. I have several vinca beds that are being watered on a five or six day
schedule.
Good luck.
Rod
--part1_28.75dfd5c.268d440a_boundary
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline
Return-path:
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com
Full-name: RodMcQ6
Message-ID:
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:21:33 EDT
Subject: Iron, How much to apply
To: Azgogel@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 109
The best advice I can give you about how much iron to apply is to read the
label on the package.
Vinca is susceptable to one of the water mold fungi which can wipe out
a flower bed in a short time. If the leaves have turned yellow, the stems at
the soil line are shrunken and brownish in color the fungi have invaded your
flower bed.. Over watering will cause the fungus to spred much more rapidly.
If your winter annuals in this bed included Pansies or Petunias, they are
hosts to the same fungi that is affecting the vinca. Try something else next
fall that will not be a host to the water mold fungi.
Vinca should be allowed to almost completely dry out befor you apply
water. I have several vinca beds that are being watered on a five or six day
schedule.
Good luck.
Rod
--part1_28.75dfd5c.268d440a_boundary--
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:08:01 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:08:01 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Re: When are peppers ripe?
Pick them while they are still crisp and firm. If they become soft, they
are overripe. Once they turn red, they won't become much larger. They are
also perfectly good to use while they are still green. Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
To:
> We have planted bell peppers for the first
> time.
> I want to make red pepper relish but do not
> know how to tell when the pepper is ripe
> enough to take from the plant and use.
> Thank you.
> Linda
From Dodty5@aol.com Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:56:12 EDT
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:56:12 EDT
From: Dodty5@aol.com Dodty5@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Wisteria
Does anyone know if we can grow Wisteria in the Phoenix area? If so where can
one buy the appropriate type?
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:36:49 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:36:49 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Growing Asparagus
I do not have personal experience with asparagus here in Phoenix, but I see your question has been around a spell and thought you'd be
interested to know of a detailed, 3-page publication specifically addressing asparagus. You can order publication 8748 at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable
You might just have luck locating a binder with our Home Horticulture publications in your local library, section 635; but the pieces
have been known to 'walk away.'
Yes it is time to mulch, and it is done bit by bit. Asparagus is a high water use plant, but there are indicators of your practice
being reasonable which are explained in depth in this publication. You should keep irrigating as long as the fern is actively growing.
Amber color [vs. burned tips] indicates the start of dormancy in the fall, and this is the time to stop watering.
Good luck with your crop!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
carmarh@c2i2.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Asparagus has grown up 3 times and is now fern like. Should I cut it back and mulch it down for summer? Watering? Fall harvest or?
> Can I move asparagus to a large pot to free space in garden? Would this jepardize the fall harvest? Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:43:44 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:43:44 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Harvesting Citrus
It is usually true that after the fruit becomes edible, it continues to improve in eating quality for some time [on the tree, that is] until it reaches maximum flavor. From then on, however, it begins to deteriorate on the tree, so pick the fruit and use it before it reaches this point. Mature fruit remiaining on the tree at bloom reduces new crop fruit set somewhat. By now, your trees would have been impacted because the fruit was left on the tree. Also, our staff published
an article in the paper this year, explaining that fruit color is not always a harbinger of the ripeness. It is more a factor of the chill in the winter.
For more information on citrus, check out our publications list at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dreamincolorado@juno.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have a Valencia Orange tree with large fruit still on the tree. Is this too late to pick. I tried sampling the fruit. Observations: 1. Fruit did not easily release from the tree (as often does ripe fruit). 2. The fruit is very thick skinned. 3.The fruit is very tart. The orange peel is shades of green and orange. 4. New fruit has set. Should I consider removing fruit or be patient and allow fruit to ripen further. Our Arizona Sweet orange tree(season)has come and gone.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:47:50 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:47:50 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Mexican Fan Palm Root Spread
I do not know what the typical root spread is, and suspect it will have something to do with the plant's need to seek water. Drip irrigation is typically applied at the
canopy's drip line of a tree or plant, so the emitters usually need to be added and moved annually until the mature size is reached. You can read about palm care in general at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
For tips on your irrigation system, check out the relevant chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
JFREED6636@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> HOW WIDE SPREADING ARE THE ROOTS OF MEXICAN FAN PALMS? HOW FAR OUT FROM THE TREE DO THE GO? WHERE SHOULD I PLACE MY WATERING SYSTEM FOR BEST RESULTS AFTER TRANSPLANTING.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:49:51 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:49:51 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Vegetable Gardening in June
Going into the summer's greatest heat, there are still a few things you
can plant. We have a great publication and planting chart at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf
Also, check out each month's Timely Tips, for what can be sowed or
transplanted.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
kejehop@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> is there any vegetables that can be planted
> at this time of the year and if so please
> send me the info on what & how. If not let me
> know when I can plant. I have one acre that is
> irrigated. What is the best fertilizer to use
> in the irrigation water? Ant info you can give
> me on how to prepare the land will help as it
> is only weeds & grass. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:52:50 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:52:50 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Installing Turf
The best thing I can suggest is that you read the Lawn Chapter of the Master Gardener Manual located at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
You can also order any of our lawn publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn
Sometimes, if you are lucky, you can find these publications in a notebook in section 635 of your public library's reference section, where you can read and
copy them.
If you have specific questions after reading this, please do not hesitate to contact us again.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
mzvision@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We are moving into a new house in an area which was, prior to building, desert. Is there anything special I need to do to the soil before I plant grass?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:55:32 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 19:55:32 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Irrigating Citrus
You are in luck! One of our citrus publications on this very topic is online at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
Your schedule is too frequent and may be inadequate. This publication will steer you in the right direction.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
schaudhr@sedona.ch.intel.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I want to Know what is the right watering schedule for Citrus trees( in Chandler, AZ). I tried drip irrigation ( 3 times a week ). Now I am hand watering them, 3 times a week. But my citrus trees are not doing well at all. THere are very few leaves, most of which are yellow. Leaves don't look healthy at all.
> Thx,
> -shailesh
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:08:51 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:08:51 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Nectarine Secretions
I don't know how to answer your question, but would like to start you in the direction of the fruit tree section of the online Master Gardener Manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html
It may point out some of your current cultural practices that may not be optimizing your tree's production and growth.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
hmorrow@juno.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> For about the past three years most of the nectarines on my tree have had a secretion on them that looks like sugar crystals. Do you know what it is and what I can do to prevent this next year? Thank you.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:16:45 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:16:45 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Arizona Landscaping
Check out these sites
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu//gardening/plant-lists.html
http://www.unlv.edu/Landscape/Xeric1.htm
http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm
Linda Guy
natenate@cei.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> what website should we go to to get pictures and information about Arizona's landscaping? such as: personal homes landscaping designs? thank you for the infomation.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:20:01 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:20:01 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Date Palms
See our online palm publication at
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
page 10.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
voigt@kingsley.co.za wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Send me information on date trees.
> Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:34:35 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:34:35 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Desert Wildflowers
You can check out our list of publications at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers
My favorite wildflower catalog, which I look at as much as a reference work, is Wildseed Farms www.wildseedfarms.com
Locally, we used to have in Tempe a company called Wild Seed [PN 276-3536] but I haven't been in contact with them for a while. Native
Seed Search in Tucson, has a few pages on wildflowers in its catalog www.azstarnet.com/~nss/index.html
In general, we plant wildflower seeds in the fall/early winter in the low desert.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
capt61@mail.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Hello. Thank you for this service.Is there anyone or site to ask about the propigation of Wild flowers? capt61@mail.com cares :]
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:41:18 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:41:18 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Tomatoes Planted in June
Your plants' behavior is very normal, as it is too hot to set fruit. If you give them some afternoon shade with shade cloth or planting tall plants adjacent to them, and keep them healthy until the weather begins to cool a bit, you should get some tomatoes in late summer/fall timeframe. Many of us plant our tomatoes in Feb/Mar with
appropriate frost protection, because we know that the pollen burns and fruit won't set beyond late spring/early summer timeframe.
For more information on vegetable gardening here in Phoenix, check out our publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable
Another resource is the monthly Timely Tips column at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm
Finally, we have a list of vegetable and herb gardening references at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm
Good luck with your tomatoes!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
raymond.tierney2@gte.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We purchased three 4" potted tomato plants
> planted them about month or more ago. They now have grown to about three feet in height and width, with large thick stems and many leaves, also yellow flowers. However we seen only one small tomato. Question: Is this normal? We have fed them with miracle grow in addition to planting in good soil. Any response will be appreciated.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:44:10 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 20:44:10 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Protecting Tree Fruit
I should think that appropriately sized tree netting would do the trick. Most scare tactics don't do the trick after a
short period of time. I've heard of tying strips of shiny plastic or aluminum foil to trees, with the reflecting light
being the deterrent. But I've no personal experience with this to share.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County, AZ
nanmval@pacbell.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a plum tree in our backyard in California and the bluejays are always eating the plums. How can we stop this?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From gussiejean@earthlink.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:27:34 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:27:34 -0700
From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net
Subject: [AG] Silver leaves on Zucchini
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0098_01BFE219.389F7FA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi. White flies can cause a zucchini plant's leaves to go silver/gray, =
and then they will eventually wilt and quit producing zucchini. There =
are pesticides out there that kill white flies, but they only kill the =
live ones and not the eggs. Laid eggs produce in 24 hours. I've tried =
garlic this year. Many bugs do not like the smell. You can mix garlic =
in a
non-detergent cleaner and spray it on. The cleaner makes it stick. I =
simply sprinkled garlic powder on leaves. It would seem that the white =
flies are gone, but I am not sure if it is from the garlic or the =
monsoon season. =20
Updated info.: it would appear that now that the white flies are gone, =
my trashed zucchini is started to grow again. Yippy! Well, just the =
plant. This heat cuts down on production to the veggie. KO
------=_NextPart_000_0098_01BFE219.389F7FA0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi. White flies can cause a =
zucchini=20
plant's leaves to go silver/gray, and then they will eventually wilt and =
quit=20
producing zucchini. There are pesticides out there that kill white =
flies,=20
but they only kill the live ones and not the eggs. Laid eggs =
produce in 24=20
hours. I've tried garlic this year. Many bugs do not like =
the=20
smell. You can mix garlic in a
non-detergent cleaner and spray =
it=20
on. The cleaner makes it stick. I simply sprinkled garlic =
powder on=20
leaves. It would seem that the white flies are gone, but I am not =
sure if=20
it is from the garlic or the monsoon season.
Updated info.: it would appear =
that now=20
that the white flies are gone, my trashed zucchini is started to grow=20
again. Yippy! Well, just the plant. This =
heat cuts=20
down on production to the veggie. KO
------=_NextPart_000_0098_01BFE219.389F7FA0--
From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:25:58 -0700
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:25:58 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Growing Asparagus
I would let the asparagus grow until the ferns die back in the fall, then
cut them off at ground level. Until then, I irrigate and care for it as
any I would any other garden plant. The spears emerge in January-early
February and produce for 3-4 weeks before starting to develop ferns. The
useful harvest period is much shorter than in cooler climates. You might be
able to force a fall crop (instead of spring) by cutting it back now but it
would be at the expense of reduced yields and a shorter plant lifetime. .
Mulch is always appropriate, even while the plant is still growing. After
cutting off the ferns, I cover with a straw mulch. Some people recommend
about 2 inches of manure which would also be okay. Most organic mulches
are okay but I would avoid using plastic.
Asparagus is a perennial which takes 1-2 years to establish roots and
become productive. Digging it up and potting, then replanting doesn't seem
advisable.
Olin Miller
----- Original Message ----- > carmarh@c2i2.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Asparagus has grown up 3 times and is now fern like. Should I cut it
back and mulch it down for summer? Watering? Fall harvest or?
> Can I move asparagus to a large pot to free space in garden? Would this
jepardize the fall harvest? Thank you
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:13:10 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:13:10 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Wisteria
I've seen them growing around the Phoenix area and the Sunset Western Garden Book
lists these plants as sustainable in our zone. I highly recommend you read it
[pp. 523-4] for a very good write-up on care and habits of this deciduous vine
that can be trained into a shrub or even a tree. Be careful to watch for
chlorosis in our alkaline soil, which is treated with iron chelates or iron
sulfate. Pruning and training is important to keep bloom production high and to
control the plant itself.
SWGB recommends that you purchase cutting-grown, budded or grafted plants.
Seedlings are said to take many years to bloom.
They have a good discussion of the varieties as well.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Dodty5@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Does anyone know if we can grow Wisteria in the Phoenix area? If so where can
> one buy the appropriate type?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:16:39 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:16:39 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Control of Mistletoe in Yard Trees
I answered a similar question in March. To view the response, check out
http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-March/000976.html
in our archives of Q&A's.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Marikelly Block wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Hello to everyone in the master gardener listserv
> Could someone please answer this question that we received from this
> gentleman that was viewing our state extension web site. Please foward a
> response to him and send me a carbon copy so that I know that his question
> was answered.
> Thanks again for your help
> Kelly
>
> >X-Mailer: Novell GroupWise Internet Agent 5.5.3.1
> >Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 16:00:34 -0700
> >From: "Roger Baumann"
> >To:
> >Subject: Control of Mistletoe in Yard Trees
> >X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by Ag.Arizona.Edu id
> QAA22807
> >
> >What info does the extension have on controlling mistletoe infestation in
> yard plantings? What recommendations do you have for avoiding mistletoe
> attack to trees? After mistletoe is found in trees, what ways are
> recommended for removal to avoid return of the mistletoe?
> >Thank you for your response.
> >Roger Baumann
> >
>
> ****************************
> Marikelly Block
> Applications Systems Analyst Senior
> Cooperative Extension
> University of Arizona
> 301 Forbes Bldg.
> Tucson, AZ 85721
> 520-626-9174
> mblock@ag.arizona.edu
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:20:53 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:20:53 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Insect ID - Hibiscus
It's hard to tell what you might be experiencing with a limited description. Permit me to
introduce you to our Master Gardener Manual, which is available online at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/
There is a chapter on Entomology, which may be of assistance to you. [As well as being a
resource for future gardening questions!]
Before doing anything about the insect, try to determine if it is doing anything harmful to
your plants.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
stevek@heraeusmtd.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Small black bugs keep getting on a Hibiscus bush. What are they and what can control them?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:30:03 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:30:03 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Growing Peach Tree from Seed
Suzen,
First you should be aware that if you grew a tree from a peach pit, you may have a
nice looking tree, but it would not bear the same fruit as that which it came
from. Fruit trees are typically grafted from the stock of one tree onto the root
stock of another. See a basic discussion of this in the Fruit Trees chapter of the
online Master Gardener manual at
http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties
As to trying to plant the tree itself, I would put it in a mix of equal parts high
quality container soil, organic matter [like peat] and perlite/vermiculite/pumice
and keep it evenly moist to see if it would sprout for you.
Linda Guy, MG
Carol Noyes wrote:
> arid_gardener
>
> Individual: Suzen
> Email: Suzen1@AOL.com
> City: TEMPE State: Arizona
> Country: U.S.A.
> Comment: I have a beautiful peach tree and plan on moving to
> another location. I have searched everywhere and am still looking for
> an answer to my question. Which
> is, how can I start a peach tree from one of the pits?I would
> really apperciate the answer as soon
> as possible. Thank you for your time, understanding and cooperation!!
> Category: Public
>
> Carol Noyes
> Administrative Secretary
> Maricopa County
> Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
>
> 602-470-8086 Ext. 308
>
> Have a wonderful day!!
>
> ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
> ~U of A ~U of A ~
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:32:40 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:32:40 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Planting New Lawn
You are in luck! We have our Master Gardener Manual available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
and it has a whole chapter dedicated to turf.
If that's not enough info for you, check out the listing of lawn pubs you can order at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
You may choose sod as your favorite option, but this does not mean you can avoid good soil prep! Good luck.
Linda Guy, MG
annettetb@yahoo.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have just moved into a newly built home in Apache Junction, Az and we would like to plant a Bermuda lawn. Our ground is very hard, rocky, and slow draining. What should we do to prepare for and plant a lawn? Would sod be better?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:41:42 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:41:42 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Flowers for Window Box
We have a good publication and planting guide available to you online at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers
Be aware that, in the heat of the full summer sun in Phoenix, your flowers may struggle since
their roots could be cooking...having said that, avoid the temptation to overwater because
they look stressed. Check out your plantings early morning, and if they look healthy, you've
probably done the correct watering. Never judge by how they look midafternoon when most all
of us sag in the heat! Quality potting soil is a must, and to ensure good drainage, mix equal
parts of potting soil, organic material [like peat] and pumice/perlite.
Linda Guy, MG
adambiker@prodigy.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Hello....
> Need your help in finding what plants(annuals) do well in a 12ft windowbox in full sun...
> Appreciate your help...Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:49:21 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:49:21 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Euryops Care
According to the Sunset Western Garden Book [p. 290] these South African natives require
excellent drainage, which means that you should use some organic material to open up what
is usually heavy clay soil in our area. They take heat but can be damaged by winter frost.
Bloom production is encouraged with 'dead-heading', and pruning is recommended in June. It
did not discuss a need for fertilization and further states that, once well established,
this should be a low water use plant.
Linda Guy, MG
fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Please tell me what my Euryops need. I have them planted on the west side of my house.
>
> I need to know water need, pruning time and when to fertilize.
>
> Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:53:18 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 06:53:18 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Growing Locust Tree from Seed
I should think that, since many varieties are heat tolerant, that freezing isn't the ticket. Have you tried scarifying the surface a bit with a file or something similar? Many of the native leguminous trees require this
treatment.
They are fast growing, will take poor soil and adapt to high heat, but place it well as the roots are very aggressive and the plant often spreads by suckers that you could have to cut out of the rest of your landscape.
Linda Guy, MG
dealanni@rochester.rr.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I'm trying to grow pink and white locust trees from seeds that I picked up from a neighboring residence last fall -- but with no luck. I once heard that the seeds needed to experience a freeze first; is this true??
>
> thanks for any help.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri, 30 Jun 2000 08:21:18 -0700
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 08:21:18 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Archives
Have the arid_gardener archives been discontinued? The latest archive
appears to be May 17. Olin
From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Jun 1 00:19:52 2000
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 17:19:52 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re:Hibiscus
I think if you visit the American Hibiscus Society's page, http://trop-hibiscus.com/ you will find some very beneficial information on the care of your hibiscus. There is a section that deals specifically with commonly asked questions and another that deals with fertilizing and pruning, which might be what is needed at this
point with your hibiscus.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
ee78028@goodnet.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We planted a 5 gal. hibiscus last spring. It did very well last year. We missed covering it during our "cold" snap. The plant is about 2', has small leaves only at the ends of the stalks and are not the deep green color, but a lighter green. The blooms are the regular size. Any ideas on how to get the plant to fill in?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From cindyl_t@yahoo.com Thu Jun 1 04:16:27 2000
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 21:16:27 -0700 (MST)
From: cindyl_t@yahoo.com cindyl_t@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have a fruitless mulberry tree that is one year old. The leaves are curling inward and we don't know what to do for it. Can you please help us?
From kberg@uswest.net Thu Jun 1 14:05:27 2000
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 07:05:27 -0700 (MST)
From: kberg@uswest.net kberg@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Could you please tell me what is causing my cuc's to taste bitter?
From kjmeadows@uswest.com Thu Jun 1 06:10:12 2000
Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 23:10:12 -0700 (MST)
From: kjmeadows@uswest.com kjmeadows@uswest.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'd like to know how to preserve our cactus. We have several that were hit by lightning last year. I've heard of people make lighting fixtures out of them. Sounds like a great idea. Thanks!
From jyoung2@satx.rr.com Thu Jun 1 13:46:37 2000
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 06:46:37 -0700 (MST)
From: jyoung2@satx.rr.com jyoung2@satx.rr.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My oleander bush is beginning to turn yellow
and seems to be dying in certain areas. what if anything, can i do?
From emardick@brg.com Thu Jun 1 15:45:43 2000
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 08:45:43 -0700
From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com
Subject: [AG] testing soil
Reading some of the gardening info that comes to me as a subscriber, I
understood that one could take a sampling of soil to the agriculture
extension off of east Broadway(4341 E. Broadway). This morning I called
that office only to be told that they do not test soil for individuals any
longer and haven't in many years. You now have to call various companies
to have this service done fort a fee; one company quoted a price of $22.00
- $28.00 depending on the tests that are done. Some of the lab companies
do not test soil for home owners who are trying to grow various types of
plants.
If you have any other current information on where to have soil tested,
please forward that information to me.
Thank you for your time and attention.
From hprime@webtv.net Thu Jun 1 17:04:36 2000
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 10:04:36 -0700 (MST)
From: hprime@webtv.net hprime@webtv.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I'm trying to find out the do's and dont's of planting Bougainvillea in the San Juaquin valley, Cal.
Full sun summer with winter frosts.
Thanks
From ohmom@mwaz.com Thu Jun 1 16:44:17 2000
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 09:44:17 -0700 (MST)
From: ohmom@mwaz.com ohmom@mwaz.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What causes the leaves on my Celebrity tomato plant to curl up. The plant is in partial sun, gets watered when dry, but no blossoms and leaves curl?
From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Jun 1 17:52:27 2000
Date: Thu, 01 Jun 2000 10:52:27 -0700
From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com
Subject: [AG] Colorado Blue Spruce...
Hi,
I'm wondering if a Colorado Blue Spruce can be grown successfully in Metro
Phoenix?. I have seen them in other parts of the country, other than the
mountains, and they look stunning, almost healthier than they do in mountainous
area's. In example Illinois, Kentucky, Indiana. Los Crucos, NM.
What type of fertilizer should I use. I understand it likes acidic soil. Also,
I have heard epsom salts enhance it's blue colors.
Right now I have planted it in my desert landscaping area, and put a heavy layer
of cedar mulch around it to keep that area from heating up so hot. Since it is
small, and not use to our heat, I prepared a tent made out of PVC, and covered
it with shade cloth, allowing 70% of the light in. I'm hoping that some of my
other tree's will provide shade for it in the coming years, but I'm also hoping
it will adapt.
Am I wasting my time? Will it die? I've never seen a Colorado Blue Spruce
anywhere in Phoenix. I'm not sure if it's because no one has tried, or many
have, but have been unsuccessful.
alan
From pward@ympo.org Thu Jun 1 18:13:17 2000
Date: Thu, 1 Jun 2000 11:13: