>> Subject: Growing Mesquite Trees from Seeds
>> Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 16:38:58 -0500
>> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300
>>
>> A friend of mine brought back mesquite seeds to Middle Georgia and
>> she wants to know if the tree will grow here and how to start the
>> seeds. I have agreed to try to help her find information to help
>> with this. Any information you can provide will be greatly
>> appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> Carol NoyesAdministrative SecretaryMaricopa CountyUrban
> Horticulture/Master Gardener programs602-470-8086 Ext. 308Have a
> wonderful day!!
>
>
> ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
> A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
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I can only speculate that Middle Georgia has rich, acid soil, maybe some
sand [vs our poor, rocky, alkaline soil], humidity [mesquite is one of
our more enduring trees for a desert], water [we've 11" a year],
and possibly cold winters [WE may sometimes think ours are cold, but truly
we're a mild winter zone; mesquite are pretty hardy, however]. Yes, mesquite
can grow very lush in our environment with supplemental water and/or fertilizer
in a landscape setting. But I still wonder how our different climates would
impact the tree. On the other hand, knowing how adaptable mesquite can
be, I'd still give it a try!
What do you have to lose? The toughest part will be to have the seeds
germinate. Many of our desert species have tough seed cases and you will
need to scarify them, or nick the with a file, in order to promote a high
rate of germination.
One reference says that it takes about 3 years to get a tree that would
normally be considered a 5-gallon nursery plant. The tap roots can be long,
so it's better if you translant the whole container contents vs. just the
bareroot sapling.
INVASIVE roots so avoid near septic tanks, pools, etc. Catkins [seedlings]
in spring, pods in the summer, fluttery leaf drop in the fall, deciduous
in all but the warmest of winters.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Carol Noyes wrote:
From: "lpatillo" <lpatillo@wans.net>
To: "Carol Noyes" <cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Subject: Growing Mesquite Trees from Seeds
Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 16:38:58 -0500
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300
A friend of mine brought back mesquite seeds to Middle
Georgia and she wants to know if the tree will grow here and how to start
the seeds. I have agreed to try to help her find information to help
with this. Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Carol NoyesAdministrative SecretaryMaricopa CountyUrban Horticulture/Master
Gardener programs602-470-8086 Ext. 308Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--------------38098824FE55007386ED01B0--
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:44:00 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 07:44:00 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Moving Echeveria Outdoors
Adam,
If you consult the Sunset Western Garden Book, p. 269, you'll see that this is going to depend on the variety of Echeveria you have. Not all are thought to tolerate our zone 13 conditions. But many are easy to grow. I'd start by acclimating your plant in a covered [protected from sun due to risk of burn] outdoor environment. It will probably prefer less light in the dormant winter stage,
so if you've put it on a south patio, you may need to move it then out of the direct light it may receive from the sun which at the time will be on the horizon.
It's a good time to consider its repotting needs, too, in case it likes its new locale and decides to 'take off'. Our container plant guru likes a mix of two parts pumice [available at many nurseries and home supply stores] and one part soil/potting mix for these types of plants. Another reference of mine suggests that this is a good time to add a powder or granular fertilizer to the
soil. Thereafter, periodically use a liquid fertilizer, following the package instructions, throughout the plant's growing cycle in the spring and summer. My reference suggests fertilizer with 15-15-30 [nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus] composition.
I suspect the paleness of your plant is more a function of inadequate light. Many cactus/
succulents need higher levels of light. An outdoor position will make more, even if diffuse, available.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
sonadam@home.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Please let me know know if an Echeveria, that was grown indoors can be easily adapted to outdoor living. What conditions need I look for for the potted plant to thrive (shade, water, etc.). Also, please tell me if succulents and cacti, grown indoors and outdoors, benefit from applications of Ironite. The plants seem pale and I was wondering if that would help. If so in what quantity?
> Thank you for your kind help.
> Adam
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:42:16 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:42:16 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Encarsia Formosa Supplier
Beverly,
I'm so sorry to hear of your lack of success in controlling the whitefly
infestation in your greenhouse. I know from your notes to us that you've been
working on this for some time now. Their number dwindle when nights are cold,
but a greenhouse atmosphere doesn't provide for this natural cycle of
abatement.
>From our fact sheet on whiteflies (MC 50), other beneficials that attack
whiteflies are lacewing larva, ladybugs, predatory flies and big-eyed bugs, in
addition to the parasite Encarsia formosa. I have three catalogs that sell
beneficials to share with you:
Peaceful Valley Farm Supply catalog, pp 76-94, the most comprehensive with a
good chart discussing the beneficials. They have the parasite you seek,
too. www.groworganic.com
Nichols Garden Nursery carries lady bugs on p. 55. www.gardennursery.com
Gardens Alive! sells lacewings and ladybugs, pp 46-7. www.gardens-alive.com
I don't know what you are growing in the greenhouse, but have you tried
floating row cover as a barrier while you battle the whiteflies?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Beverlyfz@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Is there a local supplier for the encarsia formosa wasp? This is my last
> resort to control the whitefly infestation in my greenhouse. Thx for your
> help. Beverly
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:45:55 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:45:55 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] [Fwd: [MG] 2000 Garden & Landscape Seminars]
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Please note the Whitefly Seminar on Tuesday, May 2.
Linda
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The following Gardening & Landscaping Seminars will be offered at the
University of Arizona Pinal County Cooperative Extension Conference Room at 820
E. Cottonwood Lane, Bldg C, Casa Grande, AZ 85222
520-836-5221
Tuesday, April 4, 6-9 pm, Citrus Problem Diagnosis
Tuesday, May 2, 6-9 pm, Whitefly Seminar
Tuesday, August 1, 6-9 pm, Citrus Secrets
Tuesday, September 5, 6-9 pm, Fruit & Nut Trees
Tuesday, October 3, 6-9 pm, Turf Clinic
Tuesday, November 14, 6-9 pm, Dealing with Soil Problems
Tuesday, December 5, 6-9 pm, Pruning Tips
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_1744257==_.ALT
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The following Gardening & Landscaping Seminars will be offered at the
University of Arizona Pinal County Cooperative Extension Conference Room
at 820 E. Cottonwood Lane, Bldg C, Casa Grande, AZ 85222
520-836-5221
Tuesday, April 4, 6-9 pm, Citrus Problem Diagnosis
Tuesday, May 2, 6-9 pm, Whitefly Seminar
Tuesday, August 1, 6-9 pm, Citrus Secrets
Tuesday, September 5, 6-9 pm, Fruit & Nut Trees
Tuesday, October 3, 6-9 pm, Turf Clinic
Tuesday, November 14, 6-9 pm, Dealing with Soil Problems
Tuesday, December 5, 6-9 pm, Pruning Tips
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
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Maricopa-mg@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/maricopa-mg
--------------92EBFF19652141E5EFDDEB91--
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:49:21 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:49:21 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Stevia 'Sugar Herb of Paraguay' Seed
I received a note that our Maricopa County Home Ec area had a stevia
fact sheet. I don't have it handy, as I blew the note away before making
inquiries [silly me]. Wouldn't yours have the same? Linda
Leslie,
A few years back, most health food stores carried fact sheets on this
herb; at the time some folks were tussling with the FDA on importing it
into the country [an
economic issue with sugar interests if I recollect correctly]. I know
any good web search engine will turn up more than a few hits, probably
including sources for
the seed [I have only a few plant sources] and cultivation requirements
[sorry, can't help you there].
Try Richters Herb Catalog (Canada) p. 80 of the 1999 edition sold plants
not seed. 905-640-6677 www.richters.com
Nichols Garden Nursery p. 13 again for plants 541-928-9280
www.gardennursery.com
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
llutey@Ag.Arizona.Edu wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have a Master Gardener that is inquiring about the herb, STEVIA, the sugar herb.
> We do not seem to have any pertinent information on this herb. In your library sources there do you have anything you can fax or e-mail to me for this inquiry?
> Thank you. Leslie (445-6590/Yavapai County office)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From larued@mohaveaz.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:49:51 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 08:49:51 -0700 (MST)
From: larued@mohaveaz.com larued@mohaveaz.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Please tell me how to control oak brush. I have poisoned it and it continues to come back. I have cut it off to ground level and it returns. How many years will the roots live if I keep it cut off at ground level?
From dubal@juno.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:58:58 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 09:58:58 -0700 (MST)
From: dubal@juno.com dubal@juno.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Some articles I read say not to disturb a rootball when planting from a container and others say break the rootball up a bit when planting to encourage root spread. How do I know which plants need roots loosened and which don't? I already know that citrus trees do not want roots disturbed, but what about perennials and annuals?
thansk for your help. Lisa Duba
From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:33:47 -0700
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 10:33:47 -0700
From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu
Subject: [AG] Plant Suggestions For Birds
I'm trying to attract birds to my backyard here in Tucson. I already have a
bird bath.
I was wondering what type of plants to plant. My yard has 5' walls around
it and I will be planting against the east and west walls. The west wall
gets first sun, but it is shaded in the afternoon.
For the west wall, I want a climber to screen out the neighbors a bit more.
Against the east wall, I could put shrubs of some kind. I was originally
thinking of roses and bougainvilla, but I don't think either are very good
for birds. Everything will be watered on drip.
Thanks in advance,
- Jim
From gavaman@surfsouth.com Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:59:07 -0700 (MST)
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2000 09:59:07 -0700 (MST)
From: gavaman@surfsouth.com gavaman@surfsouth.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have 4 Bradford Pear trees that bloomed and now it
seems that the leaves are dying off. Can you
help?
From src12635@aol.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:05:52 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 15:05:52 -0700 (MST)
From: src12635@aol.com src12635@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I wrote some time ago stating some pictures didn't match the names. Since I am only now getting back to checking out your web site again I couldn't remember what I had seen before. But I did find that the picture for Fountain Grass was not actually fountain grass! I'll check for more when I have time.
sandy
From chum30@aol.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:18:56 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 16:18:56 -0700 (MST)
From: chum30@aol.com chum30@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Some years back we bought and had planted a Palo Verde tree ( Blue Palo Verde we were told). It has grown but does not bloom, except last year had a few blooms for the first time. Why doesn't it bloom? It has been quite a disappointment when we see the Palo Verde's in loom everywhere.
Thank you.
From j_harrell@netzero.net Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:29:51 -0700 (MST)
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:29:51 -0700 (MST)
From: j_harrell@netzero.net j_harrell@netzero.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a dwarf Valencia orange, the fruit of
which doesn't get sweet until Feb, and very
soon after that the blossoms arrive. I'd
like to leave the oranges on for better
keeping and just pick them as I need them.
How important is it to remove the oranges
when the blossoms come on?
From beckyscott@freewwweb.com Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:24:23 -0800
Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2000 21:24:23 -0800
From: Rebecca Rasmussen beckyscott@freewwweb.com
Subject: [AG] Jerusalem Artichokes
I am trying to figure out something to plant on the south side of my
house to shade it from the summer sun. I've just moved to Phoenix from
Washington state and feel like I have come to a different planet when it
comes to gardening. Anyways back in Washington I had a nice stand of
Jerusalem Artichokes which grew all the way to the roof. Will Jerusalem
Artichokes do as well here? I know they like the sun but will the heat
be too much for them? Is there some other plant that I should consider
instead?
Thanks
Rebecca
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 01:04:38 2000
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:04:38 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Ground squirrels
This question is best directed to your own county extension office. Please see
the list of links in oour website at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#CE
Good luck with your beast!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener, Maricopa County, AZ
Dfgray31@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have one resident ground squirrel in my back yard. I wouldn't mind so much
> except that he steals the fruit from my plum tree.
>
> Is it legal to poison them in California? I have no pets or small children
> around the house so poison bait in itself would not be dangerous.
>
> If I can poison him (or them), wwhat is the bvest material to use? Can use
> one use gopher bait?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Daniel F. Gray, M.D.
> dfgray31@aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 13:17:55 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:17:55 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Mature Lemon Tree
We have a category of our Home Horticulture publications that are dedicated to citrus. See
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
You can order a copy [instructions at top of page] or peruse them in the reference section of your local
public library. One that I'm particularly fond of is no longer available however; it was printed in the
mid-80s.
In general pruning for mature citrus trees is mostly based on aesthetics and should involve the periodic
removal of dead wood. Lemon varieties can be particularly susceptible to inside shoot growth and these
should be thinned out to avoid branch competition inside the tree canopy. You should always remove suckers
that arise from below the bud union. My reference material suggests that lemons grow more rapidly than other
citrus. Do moderate pruning of the very long, vigorous top shoots that can be 18-24 inches long during the
spring and summer to maintain a more balanced and pleasing shape.
In summary, the larger your tree's canopy the more of the tree's 'production capacity' you have. At a mature
stage, the size/shape is up to you. However, we don't ever suggest removing more than 1/3 of the live canopy
in a single season. If your lemon is very out of control, you may need a few seasons to really shape it up.
For ideas on smart pruning techniques, consult our publication MC 19 Pruning Digest for Landscape Plants,
which is in the Ornamental section of the same list of pubs.
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
suzmike@openlines.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I have an overgrown Lemmon tree. Where can I find information on pruning this tree back in overall size?
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 13:32:47 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:32:47 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Long-stem Roses
Hi Michele,
As I said earlier, roses are not my specialty. I've just skimmed the rather large section on roses in the Sunset Western Garden Book, and it seems that what you are looking for will be found in the Hybrid tea
class of roses. I believe it is a question of planting the appropriate variety and not a question of your cultivation practices. However, it may be too late to plant and get a new variety established for this
season, since we recommend this be done in January.
The best advice I can give you is to contact the rose society that is closest to your residence. Please consult our list of local garden clubs at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Good luck.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
"Michele M. Mardick" wrote:
> arid_gardener I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations?
> M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N
> BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP
> 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130
> Scottsdale, AZ 85253
> 480-367-5023 direct
> 480-367-5001 fax
> mmardick@brg.com
> _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 13:40:31 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:40:31 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Planting Sunflowers; Care for Mesquite Tree
Sunflower seeds can be planted as early as February (make sure sun is available) through October. They are best planted directly into your garden soil rather than starting in pots and transplanted. Consult our publication AZ1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers
for information on these and many other flowers.
Leaf loss in the winter is fairly typical of desert leguminous trees, which are semi-to-fully deciduous. However, if your tree has not grown with the care you've indicated, there is a strong possibility that it may have been root bound when you planted it and it will be a matter of time before it declines or blows over in a storm for lack of extended root zone. Another possibility could be that it
was planted in a particularly hard area of soil, perhaps bound up by caliche layers, which is preventing the root zone from spreading. In general, the live canopy will progress to the extent the root zone can. Dig around the tree and see if you notice either of these conditions.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
paradiseoasis@uswest.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> When is the best time to plant sunflower seed?
> Also I have a chilean mesquite tree that is about 5 years old and it hasn't grown at all since it's been planted. Is there something wrong with the tree or is it still adapting to it's environment? It loses its leaves in the winter and I usually cut back the frost damaged twiggs in the spring. It's planted on the SW side of the house and get pretty much full sun. And get regular deep watering.
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 13:53:33 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:53:33 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Lilacs
I didn't think that the traditional lilac of my younger days back east grew in our area [there are exceptions to every rule of course!]. In consulting the Sunset Western Garden Book, pages 499-500, only the Common Lilac [Syringa vularis] is even listed for our zone, with the admonition that the plants bloom irregularly because of our mild
winters. Apparently lilacs do best when they are subjected to intense winter chill which we can't regularly provide. Your positioning at the NE corner of your house, where the north facade would have created a cooler micro-climate seems to have been the ticket to your previous success. However, all plants need some sunlight, hence your bush's
tendency to reach for the sun because of its relative absence for the winter months.
However, I'm fairly certain there is a desert-adapted shrub that is much like a lilac in appearance. Unfortunately, I can't find it in my material and the names eludes me. I hope that after reading this on the server, one of my colleagues will know and share that information with you. By the way, was the variety you purchased at Home Depot the
same [Syringa vulgaris]? Or was it perhaps the desert plant whose name I can't find?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
jljake1957@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am trying to grow a lilac here. I had one growing well at my previous address in a NE exposure. However, it always seemed to be reaching for the sun. I've tried two since moving, I have all exposures available in which to plant it. The plants don't seem happy no matter what I do - too much sun here, too little there. Any suggestions?
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 14:08:14 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:08:14 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Aphids
Aphids love tender new vegetation of any sort. They've even attacked my
desert natives in the past. I don't use the type of products that you've
tried. I've had reasonably good success with a homemade insecticial soap
which we recommend in the Master Gardener Entomology Manual: two
tablespoons of liquid detergent per gallon of water. This is sprayed
directly on the aphids. In major infestations, I have also used
Eco-oils. I understand that rotenone is can also be effective.
Natural predators are ladybugs and lacewings. They would also be
impacted by the spray you used, however. Some people try to encourage
their presence with pheremone lures.
If your tomatoes are failing to thrive, you may need to consider new
plants if the aphid damage is too severe.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Gregcm2@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> 1.Can I do anything now to prevent aphids on my tomatoes and herbs?
And later on 2-29-00
I planted the tomatoes Feb. 15 and had an aphid the first day.
I've used Ortho Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer and Maxide Diazinon
(0.058%)
Insect Killer Spray. They seem to have stressed the plants as they
haven't
grown at all. I used the Maxide before going on vacation for 9 days.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Wed Mar 1 20:29:03 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:29:03 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Locating Publications in Library]
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Cathy,
If the attached represents what is actually in the libraries, should we
stop referring the folks asking questions to the Public Library System?
Does anyone know what libraries or library systems still have the
volume(s) of Home Horticulture Pubs? I thought these were maintained by
MG volunteers around the valley.
Linda Guy
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From: uncas@aztec.asu.edu (MARJORIE D. SYKES)
Subject: Re: [AG] Locating Publications in Library
To: laguy2@primenet.com
Reply-to: uncas@aztec.asu.edu
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Linda - No tisn't so. I did a survey for Carolyn Chard and
located the volume in a number of libraries. I think that
one librarian knew where it was. None of the others had
any idea of its presence. The number is 635 general
reference and its called Horticulture Publications.
The Harmon Branch of Phx Public had thrown it away
because it was in English. Mesquite had no idea if they
ever had it because they were building and some of the
collection was stored. I had to contact a librarian who
was there before the building began and she remembered
using it.
--------------E9B2486456CFD14A01349D2E--
From mbandrowsk@aol.com Wed Mar 1 16:02:28 2000
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:02:28 -0700 (MST)
From: mbandrowsk@aol.com mbandrowsk@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have a 15 gal. citrus tree that we planted in October and will be leaving the area in April. We have an automatic drip systen and would like to know the amount of water and how often we should be watering it during the summer months while we are away?
From j.bowen@worldnet.att.net Wed Mar 1 02:39:10 2000
Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:39:10 -0700 (MST)
From: j.bowen@worldnet.att.net j.bowen@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We currently have a nice rye grass lawn. We would like to make the transition to bermuda grass and would like to know how to overseed bermuda on top of the rye and when would be an ideal time to do it in Tucson.
Thank you,
JoAnn and Monte Bowen
From tony.baird@tenethealth.com Wed Mar 1 20:43:00 2000
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:43:00 -0700 (MST)
From: tony.baird@tenethealth.com tony.baird@tenethealth.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do I control fire blight on established (20 year old) pyracantha plants that are 10 feet high and 2 feet across. There are 14 plants forming a hedge 80 feet long. Have tried streptomycin, and triple action with some success, but it keeps coming back and gaining on me. How about copper sulfate or home remedies like tobacco juice/listerine solutions. If this makes sense, what is the home formula. Anything new on the market. I hate to have them die on me.
From lippold@asu.edu Wed Mar 1 18:38:16 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:38:16 -0700
From: Mary Lippold lippold@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Mulberry Trees
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
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Hello -
I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are getting quite old. I think they are
almost 30 - 35 years old. One of them is diseased and not producing new
growth this year. I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like the other
two trees are infected also. First they lose bark and look moldy, the
branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them. Is there anything I
can do at this point to try and save them or is it too late?
Thank you for your help - Mary Ellen
---
Mary Ellen Lippold
ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY
Department of Psychology
Tempe, AZ 85287-1104
(480) 727-6126 - (480) 727-6176 Fax
RIPL Team
The bedrock of mathematics is the proof -- the logical argument that
something is or is not true. But often there are many ways to prove the same
thing, and mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the most
"beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & Sky"
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Mulberry Trees
Hello -
I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are =
getting quite old. I think they are almost 30 - 35 years =
old. One of them is diseased and not producing new growth this =
year. I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like the other =
two trees are infected also. First they lose bark and look moldy, =
the branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them. Is =
there anything I can do at this point to try and save them or is it too =
late?
Thank you for your help - Mary =
Ellen
---
Mary Ellen Lippold
ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY
Department of Psychology
Tempe, AZ =
85287-1104
(480) 727-6126 - (480) =
727-6176 Fax
RIPL Team
The bedrock of mathematics =
is the proof -- the logical argument that something is or is not true. =
But often there are many ways to prove the same thing, and =
mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the most =
"beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & =
Sky"
------_=_NextPart_001_01BF83AD.4ED08032--
From magspeed@compuserve.com Wed Mar 1 17:28:25 2000
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:28:25 -0700 (MST)
From: magspeed@compuserve.com magspeed@compuserve.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have rose bushes that appear to be eaten by some animal but we can't figure out what is doing the damage. We live near Carefree, AZ and planted the bushes against the back of our house. Within days, they were attacked and almost look like the stems have been clipped or completely cut off. Can you help us solve this mystery and suggest any ways to save our roses?
From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Thu Mar 2 01:47:59 2000
Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 20:47:59 EST
From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I monitor the questions posed to arid-gardener and would like to respond to
your question of fireblight affecting your pyracantha. This information is
based on personal experience with several plants my grandmother grew in arbor
fashion last year.
First, fireblight is caused by a bacterium, so think "sanitary" when dealing
with the problem. The bacteria can regain strength and activity in the
warmer weather from existing areas of infected wood on the plant already. If
it looks like it is scorched, try to cut the limb or twig 6-12 inches below
the affected area. The treatments that you have used of a copper application
are helpful, but a spray application is best.
Keep in mind that fireblight is spread through the blossom into new and
existing wood by watering, rain, insects like bees and flies and even
"unsanitary pruning". So apply your preventative copper spray to the plants,
primarily concentrating on the existing blooms, prune off infected parts of
the plant and handle diseased material with the same hand and dispose of
promptly in a sealed bag. Just remember that you can spread the bacteria to
healthy plant material with your pruning shears.
Hopefully this will guide you in the right direction and get the fireblight
under control and finally gone from your pyracantha. Ask for additional
information on using repeated applications of the streptomyacin and copper
remedies for I do not have an answer on this.
Good luck,
Valerie Meyers
ACNP with the ANA
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Mar 2 15:03:20 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:03:20 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Arizona Black Walnut Trees
Thank you for being patient, Mr. Baker. We are a very small group of Master
Gardener volunteers with a very large inbox of questions to research/answer! I
do not have personal experience with this tree so I consulted the Sunset
Western Garden Book (page 521) to assist you.
It suggests that the Nogal or Arizona Walnut (Juglans major or J. rupestris
major) can grow in our zone 13 environment. This is a native of Arizona, New
Mexico and northern Mexico that grows to 50 feet, so I hope you positioned
your new trees with ample room, away from power lines or other restrictions.
The entry says it takes desert heat and wind; that it needs deep soil and some
water. This would suggest that you check the soil in the area you planted to
ensure the roots won't hit hard layers.
An interesting consideration for this tree, though particularly noted for the
English and California black walnuts, is that aphids just love their new
growth. You probably already know that these pests exude a honeydew substance;
given the volume of aphids potentially attracted to the trees, they should not
be placed over a driveway or patio...it would be bad news for the cars or
furnishings beneath the tree's branches.
Good luck,
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Burt Baker wrote:
> No I did not receive a reply. I thought maybe no one knows the answer to
> this question. I bought a couple of 5 gal. trees from Mr. Baker (Baker's
> Nursery). He said they were grown from nuts of a tree in Wilcox. I don't
> know of any specimens in the lower valley so I thought I would plant them
> and see what happens. Please let me know if there are any mature trees in
> the Phoenix area. Thank You.
>
> >From: "Linda A. Guy"
> >To: zbinternational@hotmail.com
> >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> >Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:15:47 -0700
> >
> >Did you ever receive a reply from us?
> >
> >L. Guy
> >
> >zbinternational@hotmail.com wrote:
> >
> > > arid_gardener
> > > Can anyone tell me if arizona black walnut trees will grow in the
> >Phoenix area? Typically I think they are found at higher and cooler
> >elevations. Thank You
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > > Archives -
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Mar 2 15:47:19 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:47:19 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Pruning Mesquite trees
Please accept my apologies for the delayed response which was not in time
for your meeting. We are a small group of volunteer Master Gardeners and
sometimes the volume of questions is very large. In the future, please
consider contacting your own county's Cooperative Extension office for
horticultural assistance, particularly if you are pressed for time. It is
found in the county listing in the blue-government pages of the phone book.
In general, the pruning one does in the January timeframe is for deciduous
fruit trees. Leguminous desert species are recommended to receive pruning
as they begin to leaf out in early spring. However, I know of at least one
horticultural authority, Judy Mielke, who recommends a fall to early winter
pruning for mesquites because they are 'bleeders', exuding sap when pruned.
Perhaps you can change tactics and make a good case for altering the
horticultural practices that are generating such lush growth. I have some
notes from a MG meeting with Mary Irish, formerly of the Desert Botanical
Garden and very well-respected in our community, where we were discussing
the use of native species in the landscape. Mary was challenging us to
consider treating these types of trees the way they are handled in a
natural setting. That is, forego a biweekly drip irrigation and do 2 to 3
major soaks in the year (2 in summer, one in winter) to emulate the water
of the storm/flash flood cycles we have. And the fertilizer provided in
nature is the dropping of the trees' pods themselves. With this strategy
Mary suggested that a seasonal prune or two should be sufficient.
In other words, if we 'cared less' for this type of tree, we'd have a less
lush specimen, one that provided more filtered shade that would be less
obstructive for your neighbors' view. And your HOA would spend less money
on the mounds of vegetation that is pruned and hauled away to a landfill.
In my own yard, I follow this strategy. Most desert trees are not on drip,
else I'd spend the whole summer trimming them up. The few that are have
been left 'off'. I follow the 2-3 soaks a year strategy and have never
fertilized any of these trees because there simply was no need to do so.
Not only have they grown beautifully, but so have the plants beneath that
receive some filtered sunlight AND my arms are a whole lot less scratched
since the pruning is less frequent. My husband likes the latter alot!
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener,
Maricopa County
"Jim Basso (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We have 17 of these trees in our common area of our HOA
> Our new Maintenance Mgr refused to trim them last summer
> over the objections of the owners whose view was being blocked,
> and stated that they should only be trimmed in Jan. or Feb. and
> evidently our board agreed with him. I would like to take this contrary
> opinion to our HOA meeting Monday, Feb. 21th
>
> Thanks Jim Basso in Green Valley,Az
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From laguy2@primenet.com Thu Mar 2 16:01:29 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:01:29 -0700
From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com
Subject: [AG] Care for Lady Banks Roses
Elaine,
I apologize for a delayed response. We are a small group of Master Gardener
volunteers and lately our inboxes have been filled to overflowing with
horticultural questions.
I do not grow roses, but in the interest of helping you seek some answers I
would first suggest you contact the Rose Society nearest your home. Consult our
garden club list at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Roses do require seasonal fertilizing and pruning. This month, you should be
continuing a regular (every 6 week) course of feeding. One way to keep on top of
your rose duties is to consult our Timely Tips pages. Roses have their own
subheading. Pruning was an activity that was best suited for January. I'm sorry,
but I don't know if it's still advisable to proceed with pruning now, although
it sounds like your roses could benefit, if they haven't been pruned for years.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/march.htm
The Sunset Western Garden Book has a substantial section on roses, beginning on
p. 462. It's worth your time to read, and it's usually in the public library.
Again I apologize that a volunteer rosarian was not available to handle your
question. Good luck to you!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Elaine Ball wrote:
> Unfortunately NO I’m still waiting…
> Thanks
> Elaine
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:15 AM
> To: elaine.ball@americanfence.com
> Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
> Did you ever receive a reply from us?
>
> L. Guy
>
> elaine.ball@americanfence.com wrote:
>
> > arid_gardener
> > I have 2 lady banks roses and this is their third season
> and I get very few flowers. One is on a north facing wall and the other on a
> west facing wall.
> >
> > Should I prune them?
> > Should I use a special fertalizer ( use fish Emulsion on
> my regular roses)
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > Archives -
>
From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Mar 2 16:06:54 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:06:54 -0700
From: Mike Sheedy msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] Gophers
I have an ongoing battle with gophers in my backyard. After being bitten
twice, I decided to remove these pests permanently. I found the best way is
to use gopher traps. These can be purchased at your local hardware store.
These traps come as a set of two spring loaded prongs, that work like any
other animal trap. Connect the two traps together with a light chain.
You need to dig around the gopher hole on the surface and find the main
tunnel. Our gophers tunnels are about 8"-10" deep. You may need to dig as
far as 1' away from the surface hole. You should see two openings in the
main tunnel. Set the spring loaded traps (ask the hardware store how to do
this). Place one loaded trap in each of the tunnels. I found that the traps
must be placed as far into the main tunnel as you can (about 4" or more).
When the gopher comes around to the opening in the tunnel and releases the
trap, the spring loaded prongs pierce the abdomen and kills the gopher. You
can check the traps after a couple of days just by pulling on the chain.
Hopefully there will be a dead gopher hanging in the trap. You can toss the
carcass in the garbage can or bury it in the garden for compost. I've done
both. Don't forget to check the traps regularly.
There should be no danger to your animals or other wildlife unless they are
digging around the main tunnel area.
If there is a large population of gophers, you may need to set the traps
about once a week to remove these animals
>Message: 7
>From: "don olson"
>To:
>Cc:
>Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:58:53 -0700
>charset="iso-8859-1"
>
>the only thing i can think of, is calling a pestcontrol company. or,building
>a raised planter with chickenwire at the bottom.
>----- Original Message -----
>From:
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:08 AM
>Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
>
>
>> arid_gardener
>> I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have
>tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a
>cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull!
>Thank you
Mike Sheedy
Research Specialist
University of Arizona
Maricopa Agricultural Center
From gene.reeck@asm.com Thu Mar 2 16:47:06 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST)
From: gene.reeck@asm.com gene.reeck@asm.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My Ficus Nitida is not growing at the rate I think it should. The tips of the new shoots are drying up before they turn into leaves. Same plant on the other side of the fence is doing great. It has water. What is the proble,?
From pbdk@netzone.com Wed Mar 1 16:00:47 2000
Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 09:00:47 -0700
From: Paul & Barb Bourscheidt pbdk@netzone.com
Subject: [AG] Waterwise Gardening and Landscape Festival
Is this the correct e-mail address to send a notice of our festival? It
is sponsored by the "High Country Xeriscape Council of Arizona" in
cooperation with the Town of Payson, and many local businesses and
agencies. Master gardeners are an integral part of the volunteer staff,
and several extension agents will be participating.
Thank you for your reply
From gene.reeck@asm.com Thu Mar 2 16:47:06 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST)
From: gene.reeck@asm.com gene.reeck@asm.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My Ficus Nitida is not growing at the rate I think it should. The tips of the new shoots are drying up before they turn into leaves. Same plant on the other side of the fence is doing great. It has water. What is the problem?
From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Mar 2 20:17:55 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 13:17:55 -0700
From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [AG] free seeds
--=====================_21797683==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
America the Beautiful Fund is offering FREE SEEDS! to make the new Millennium
Green. Here is your chance to help feed hungry citizens and improve your local
parks, nursing homes, libraries, community gardens, schools and other public
spaces by planting vegetable and flower seed. Let a garden be testament to
your commitment to a better future. To ensure your legacy, bury a time capsule
marked with an excavation date in your Millennium Garden. Include your
community's history and aspirations so that those who follow in your footsteps
will "Honor the Past-Imagine the Future".
These are 1999 seeds with germination rates of 85% to 90%. Grants of 100 to
1,000 seed packets are being offered on the basis of availability and relative
need.
Since the early days of America, part of the democratic spirit on which this
country was built took form in the sharing of gardening skills and plants. As
the Native Americans shared their plants with hungry Pilgrims, so we now
advocate plants as a means to promote charitable good works. There has never
been a better time to make a difference! To request a FREE SEED! Grant simply:
1. Write a short letter describing your project
2. Fill out the application form below
3. Enclose a check for shipping and handling
4. Mail it to the following address:
America the Beautiful Fund, 1730 K St., N.W., Suite 1002, Washington, D.C.
20006
The Supply is limited so send in your request today! And don't forget your
membership contribution for newsletter, hotline and educational materials!
____________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________
________I don't have a charitable project, but please accept my gift of
____________ for shipping seeds to needy projects across the country.
____________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________
Project Information
Shipping and Handling fees
First set of 100 packets =$12.00
_________________________________________________
____Additional set(s) of 100x$5 each =_______
Contact name
Please specify amounts below:
_________________________________________________
Vegetable____________Flower_______________
Project Name
Herbs are extremely limited and will only be sent if a special request is made.
_____________________________________________________________________
Annual Contributing Membership ($10) =_______
Street Address (No PO Boxes Please)
_________________________________________________
Total =_________
City State Zipcode
_____________________________________________________________________
Phone Number Fax Number E-Mail Address
____________________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of
A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_21797683==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
America the Beautiful Fund is offering FREE SEEDS! to make the new
Millennium Green. Here is your chance to help feed hungry citizens
and improve your local parks, nursing homes, libraries, community
gardens, schools and other public spaces by planting vegetable and flower
seed. Let a garden be testament to your commitment to a better
future. To ensure your legacy, bury a time capsule marked with an
excavation date in your Millennium Garden. Include your community's
history and aspirations so that those who follow in your footsteps will
"Honor the Past-Imagine the Future".
These are 1999 seeds with germination rates of 85% to 90%. Grants
of 100 to 1,000 seed packets are being offered on the basis of
availability and relative need.
Since the early days of America, part of the democratic spirit on which
this country was built took form in the sharing of gardening skills and
plants. As the Native Americans shared their plants with hungry
Pilgrims, so we now advocate plants as a means to promote charitable good
works. There has never been a better time to make a
difference! To request a FREE SEED! Grant simply:
1. Write a short letter describing your project
2. Fill out the application form below
3. Enclose a check for shipping and handling
4. Mail it to the following address:
America the Beautiful Fund, 1730 K St., N.W., Suite 1002, Washington,
D.C. 20006
The Supply is limited so send in your request today! And don't
forget your membership contribution for newsletter, hotline and
educational materials!
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
________I don't have a charitable project, but please accept my gift of
____________ for shipping seeds to needy projects across the
country.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Project
Information Shipping
and Handling fees
First
set of 100
packets =$12.00
_________________________________________________ ____Additional
set(s) of 100x$5
each =_______
Contact name
Please
specify amounts below:
_________________________________________________ Vegetable____________Flower_______________
Project
Name Herbs
are extremely limited and will only be sent if a special request is
made.
_____________________________________________________________________ Annual
Contributing Membership
($10) =_______
Street Address (No PO Boxes Please)
_________________________________________________ Total =_________
City State Zipcode
_____________________________________________________________________
Phone
Number Fax
Number E-Mail
Address
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs
602-470-8086 Ext. 308
Have a wonderful day!!
~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A
~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_21797683==_.ALT--
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 2 22:41:56 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:41:56 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Ficus nitida, new growth dying
Gene, please furnish us with additional information such as irrigation
interval and amount; is the tree planted in turf; have you fertilized, when
and with what. How old is the tree?
Thanks, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist
From Tjb72229@aol.com Thu Mar 2 18:09:13 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 11:09:13 -0700
From: by way of Lucy Bradley Tjb72229@aol.com
Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii)
Can you tell me anything about this plant, such as care etc.? I have been
unable to find any information at all.
Thank you
From dolsontree@hotmail.com Thu Mar 2 08:50:18 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 01:50:18 -0700
From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
cut at the node or joint,let it dry in the shade until the wound has formed
a callus.it might take 3 weeks.after it is healed over,plant it and mist
spray it lightly for a week.water extremely sparingly,even during the
summer,until it has put down some roots.fertilize only if it's absolutely
necessary-very little.use low nitrogen fertilizer. CUL8R
----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 9:06 AM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> arid_gardener
> What the procedure for planting cuttings from cactus plants?
> Is it recommended to dry them out first?
> How often should they be watered and/or fertilized?
> Thanks!
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
>
From joannmc777@aol.com Fri Mar 3 02:17:49 2000
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:17:49 -0700 (MST)
From: joannmc777@aol.com joannmc777@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
This isn't really a gardening question, but I was hoping you could help. My husband began "allergy season" yesterday and I would like to know what blooms October through December and March through April (till it gets to 100 every day). BUT he has NO allergy problems in December and January. Any ideas? Thanks!
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 04:33:21 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 21:33:21 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Overseeding Bermuda grass
Joann and Monte:
Please check out the following page of our Master Gardener manual:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
It contains lots of information on lawns including when and how to seed (or sod) Bermuda.
Good luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
j.bowen@worldnet.att.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> We currently have a nice rye grass lawn. We would like to make the transition to bermuda grass and would like to know how to overseed bermuda on top of the rye and when would be an ideal time to do it in Tucson.
> Thank you,
> JoAnn and Monte Bowen
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 05:04:11 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:04:11 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Hostas
Please take a look at the response to a similar question about hostas in our archives at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0386.html
They generally do not do well in our desert climate. In this archive there are recommendations for other plants that are suitable.
Good luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
raddadtwo@email.msn.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Has anyone had success with Hostas? I have a "mini-climate" area under a deep overhang with an opaque skylight. In hot sun, an awning covers it so there's filtered/indirect light. Can you suggest which Hostas might be the best-I really like the blues!!!Any hands-on tips would be really appreciated!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 05:13:19 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:13:19 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Herbs between Pavers
Your mother might want to try thyme between the stepping stones. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book, thyme will grow in full sun to light shade, but needs some summer water in the hottest areas. Two that are specifically mentioned for use between stepping stones are Creeping thyme, which can take light foot traffic, and Woolly Thyme. Thyme would release its fragrance
when brushed, which would be a nice touch.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
. TepeKIT-Jackie@msn.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> My mother just laid flagstone on the east side of her house. It gets sunlight but not for very long due to the house being on the west of the area and a 6 ft. fence on the east and north sides. She would like to plant some herbs and grasses in the 2-4" crevices between the stones. What herbs and grasses would be suitable for this. They might even get stepped on occasionally.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 05:20:56 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:20:56 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9
If your question has not already been answered for you, may I ask what area you are
referring to as Zone 9? I am more accustomed to Sunsets climate zones, which are
numbered differently from the USDA's. Knowing where you are will better help me to
answer the question. Thank you!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
jcp.provo@mindspring.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> hi!
> would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can, when should i.
> also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9??
> thanx!!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 05:24:03 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:24:03 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Apple Varieties
I think the following page from the Master Gardener manual will be helpful in answering your questions about apple varieties. Please
visit: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
jrlinden@usa.net wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I would like to grow a/some apple tree/s. What would survive in Cave Creek, AZ and bear good fruit? Tnx, JR Linden, Cave Creek, AZ
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Fri Mar 3 06:01:44 2000
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:01:44 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii)
This is a tough one to find! The only information I have been able to turn
up so far about Pachypodium gaeyi is that it is a 'Madagasgar palm', long
gray-green leaves with pink mid-stripe.
The Madagasgar palm mentioned in the Sunset Western Garden book is
Pachypodium lamerei, which has long, glossy green leaves. The information
that I have on that is that it is a house plant or indoor/outdoor succulent,
likes part shade; bright indoor light, water only when soil is dry, needs
excellent drainage, cannot stand frost. You may already know that. I have
been searching the internet for information on gaeyi and all I could come up
with was the above leaf description.
Perhaps someone in the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society could
help? Here is their information: The Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent
Society meets at
2:00 p.m. the last Sunday of the month
Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 Galvin Parkway, Phoenix, AZ
Contact: Deborah Korobkin, P.O. Box 8774, Scottsdale, AZ 85252
(602) 493-7003
Maybe Deborah Korobkin can give you some direction.
Good Luck!!!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
"by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:
> arid_gardener
> Can you tell me anything about this plant, such as care etc.? I have been
> unable to find any information at all.
>
> Thank you
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri Mar 3 06:03:31 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 01:03:31 EST
From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Allergies
My allergies began about a week ago, the day before there was an article in
the newspaper about allergies starting. Then it let up for a few days. It
hasn't bothered me at all today till I came in at 9 pm tonight to play with
the computer - then my eyes really started itching. Different people have
different things they are allergic to. Even tho you don't plant the plants
he may be allergic to, your neighbor to the east of you, the west of you, a
couple blocks to the south of you may plant it and pollen travels for a
distance, especially when there is a wind.
I grew up in Colorado, but I didn't have hay fever till I moved to Arizona.
I have it worse in the spring than I do in the fall, but I find as I get
older that my allergies aren't bothering me as much as they used to.
Val
From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Fri Mar 3 13:38:55 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:38:55 EST
From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com
Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii)
I have a little more information concerning the question on Madagascar
palms....
The Madagascar palm is not a true palm...It is actually in the same family of
plants as the oleander and can have a poisonous residue or sap. The
botanical name is Pachypodium lamerei (largest of the species) and others P.
geayi (silvery leaves)and P. saundersii (I believe that this one has more
colorful leaves). All make wonderful inside house plant specimens for high li
ght areas. Pachypodiums like warmer temps and a dry soil well draining soil
and should only be watered when the plant has leaves. They can drop leaves
during a resting phase and this excess water can rot the plant. These plants
will do well outside in the right secluded location or entry way protected
from frost and cold temps (they need almost a year to adapt and larger
specimens do better than small ones outside). A pest common to this plant
indoors is spider mite.
Hopefully I have supplemented some additional information that you will find
useful.
Val Meyers
ACNP with ANA
From Aaaorvca@aol.com Fri Mar 3 15:27:17 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:27:17 -0700 (MST)
From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Aaaorvca@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a orange tree that used to give me oranges, but over the years, they have been polinated by the bees from the lemon tree. Looks like they will eventually be all lemon. Now I'm getting more lemons than I want. What can I do to get my oranges back?
IF ANYTHING!
From GTaylor@exchange.co.pima.az.us Fri Mar 3 14:43:49 2000
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 07:43:49 -0700
From: Glenda Taylor GTaylor@exchange.co.pima.az.us
Subject: [AG] Kelanchoa (sp)
Bought the above plants last year, repotted them after they had
ceased blooming. Now the plants are sprouting higher and higher, with no
flowers. Is it necessary to keep trimming them down in order for them to
bloom? And, should I put them in a bigger pot now that they're sprouting
upwards, presumably the roots are sprouting also?
Any tips on this would be much appreciated.
Glenda
From taviab@env.ind.com Fri Mar 3 15:54:14 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:54:14 -0700 (MST)
From: taviab@env.ind.com taviab@env.ind.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Can you espalier citrus trees? Good fruit production is not a concern, just survivability while being trained in this way. If so, which types of citrus look or do better?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 3 18:04:02 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:04:02 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Ficus nitida, new growth dying
Gene, Your problem is improper watering. You should be winter watering on a
three to four week interval with the water penetrating to a depth of two to
three feet. It is time to go on a spring fall schedule which should be every
two to three weeks. Summer watering should be every 7 to 10 days. These
recommendations are for the low desert and are based on your soil being
mostly clay. If your soil is very sandy then you would have to water more
frequently.I have several Ficus nitida planted 1 1/2 years ago that are
wintered watered once per month with three two gallon drippers for three
hours. As the trees matures I will be adding more drippers and a longer
irrigation time. Your fertilizer spikes should be placed near the drip line
of the tree.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation at :
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck. Rod
From gabriel.munguia@vlsi.com Fri Mar 3 23:16:40 2000
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 16:16:40 -0700
From: Gabriel Munguia gabriel.munguia@vlsi.com
Subject: [AG] transplanting large citrus
I am trying to xplant large (5-10ys) red grapefruit trees. I have had
them professionally moved into our yard before, but now I get some free
ones if I will just dig them up. I can do the work, but the
farmer-friend is betting I kill them getting them out. He claims that
even an instantaeous crack in the root ball will kill the tree?
From n.savage@asu.edu Sat Mar 4 05:07:18 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:07:18 -0700
From: N. Savage n.savage@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Fences for coyote exclusion
My friend's neighbor (adjacent back yards) just observed a coyote in her
yard and has a cat missing. She is concerned and wants to fence her yard so
her pets will be safe from these predators. How high should the fence needs
to be, what kind of materials and are there any other special building
needs. Would anyone have this info or can refer me to resources. Thank you
From KSTMetal@aol.com Sun Mar 5 00:05:04 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:05:04 EST
From: KSTMetal@aol.com KSTMetal@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #130 - 2 msgs
We have observed the coyotes going over our five foot livestock gate like it
was an easy field trial. They have also dug under our hen house to the depth
of four feet just to get to the hens and eat 6 or so at a time. We live in PV
and not very rural anymore but there are no longer ANY cats around that are
left out to fend for themselves for the night. Ours are brought in before the
sun sets and aren't let back out until after sunrise. They both come when
called fortunately. To keep the coyotes from digging under fences, we dig a
trough about two feet and roll up old fencing, chicken wire, hog wire or
whatever and bury it. They must not like getting the feeling they will be
tangled up if they try in that spot so it has deterred them so far. I would
doubt they could get over a six foot fence but I wouldn't put anything past a
hungry, smart coyote. Good luck!
From joewgardner@yahoo.com Sat Mar 4 02:21:37 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:21:37 -0700 (MST)
From: joewgardner@yahoo.com joewgardner@yahoo.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My citrus tree is looseing all of it leaves
like over night.Did I over water?
Is this Verticillium Wilt? Help
From eighttracker@hotmail.com Sat Mar 4 06:38:10 2000
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 23:38:10 -0700 (MST)
From: eighttracker@hotmail.com eighttracker@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Where is agood place close to Mesa to buy ocotillos? Best time to transplant?
From brenda070@web.net Sat Mar 4 16:32:20 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 09:32:20 -0700 (MST)
From: brenda070@web.net brenda070@web.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
why the citris pulp dry this year in FL?
From tom.sharp@asu.edu Sat Mar 4 18:10:09 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 11:10:09 -0700 (MST)
From: tom.sharp@asu.edu tom.sharp@asu.edu
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a Palo Brea tree in my desert landscape that appears to be under attack by woodpeckers. The tree has been in our landscape for two years and is now about ten feet tall. The symtoms are holes in the bark that are oozing sap and forming large amber-like deposits on the trunk and limbs. There are also numerous patches (1 square inch) of bare wood where the bark has been removed. I have seen woodpeckers on the tree pecking away so I have attributed the damage to them. There is no sign of insects or other parasites that the birds may be feeding on. My questions are: Is the damage likely to be from the woodpeckers? If it is, what is the most effective way to protect the tree from further damage? Is this problem serious enough to threaten the life of the tree? Thanks for your suggestions.
best regards
Tom Sharp
From sunfaces2@cs.com Sat Mar 4 22:49:50 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 15:49:50 -0700 (MST)
From: sunfaces2@cs.com sunfaces2@cs.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Ranunculus disease?
I have been growing ranunculas for years and have never seen this problem:
Some of my prized plantings have begun to curl and twist in a deformed manner. On some of the stems the buds have appeared, but suddenly twisted, collapsed and are dying.
Many of the stems are swollen and twisted.
What's causing this? Why are some beds unaffected?
From Egyptadh@aol.com Sun Mar 5 02:08:16 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:08:16 -0700 (MST)
From: Egyptadh@aol.com Egyptadh@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am a beginner and trying to grow vegatables and some fruits, strawberries and pomegrantes. Can you suggest any good books to look into on the best things and ways to grow in this climate? Or any website that might help? The fruits are container plants and the others are in my woefully small garden space. Thank you for any information you can give me.
From AZDOVES@AOL.COM Sun Mar 5 04:48:29 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:48:29 -0700 (MST)
From: AZDOVES@AOL.COM AZDOVES@AOL.COM
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I just moved to Sun City Grand and have a small garden space with it's own water station and I'm wondering for my first garden what vegetables would do well . We have been here in Az for 5 years, but I've grown only citrus.( which were great). I love snap peas, sugar peas, greens, beans, and squash. Any idea's would be great.
Thanks, Dena
From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sun Mar 5 05:08:47 2000
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:08:47 -0700 (MST)
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have problems growing basil. They always wilt and die on me. I need to know soil, location (east, west,etc)food, temp., sun or no.
I was told it can grow all summer long outdoors. Correct?
Thank you very much.
From chrisb8719@home.net Sun Mar 5 17:27:46 2000
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:27:46 -0700 (MST)
From: chrisb8719@home.net chrisb8719@home.net
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How can I attract bees to pollinate my canteloupe and zucchini plants. I have luscious group but very little fruit. Is there an artificial way to pollinate if the bees aren't around?
Thanks,
Clarice Black
From DVPDavis1999@aol.com Sun Mar 5 22:24:29 2000
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 15:24:29 -0700 (MST)
From: DVPDavis1999@aol.com DVPDavis1999@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We would like to fertilize and seed our two year old mid iron lawn - We have two dogs that have worn it out. Does anyone know of a safe fertilizer or organic substance we could use to re-seed the lawn?
Thanks
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Mar 6 02:48:07 2000
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:48:07 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Vegetable Gardening
Dena:
Please see the following section of the Master Gardener Manual, pertaining to vegetable gardening.
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html
This section contains a vegetable planting guide and recommended planting dates which should be very helpful.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
AZDOVES@AOL.COM wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I just moved to Sun City Grand and have a small garden space with it's own water station and I'm wondering for my first garden what vegetables would do well . We have been here in Az for 5 years, but I've grown only citrus.( which were great). I love snap peas, sugar peas, greens, beans, and squash. Any idea's would be great.
> Thanks, Dena
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Mar 6 02:54:06 2000
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:54:06 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Vegetables and fruits]
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000
Message-ID: <38C31DA5.2C1D108A@uswest.net>
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:53:25 -0700
From: Sue Bass
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Egyptadh@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vegetables and fruits
References: <200003050208.TAA05259@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
You can find helpful information on Vegetable Gardening in our Master Gardener Manual, which is on-line. The following section pertains to vegetable gardening: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html
A book I find very helpful is Desert Gardening, The Complete Guide by George Brookbank. It pertains to fruits and vegetables.
Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Egyptadh@aol.com wrote:
> arid_gardener
> I am a beginner and trying to grow vegatables and some fruits, strawberries and pomegrantes. Can you suggest any good books to look into on the best things and ways to grow in this climate? Or any website that might help? The fruits are container plants and the others are in my woefully small garden space. Thank you for any information you can give me.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> Archives -
--------------F34722E39F7B61255C29121D--
From PattyJoA@aol.com Mon Mar 6 03:37:41 2000
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:37:41 EST
From: PattyJoA@aol.com PattyJoA@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Questions about Sedrus Deodara PT
Greetings! This tree was given as a gift. In reading my Sunset guide, it
states that the Sedrus Deodara PT it is not suited to zone 13-- it can handle
zones 12 and 14-- and that it gets 80 feet tall. Question 1) Can it live and
thrive in Phoenix and, 2) since it is not suited for this climate, will it
reach 80 feet tall if it is planted here?
Thanks for your help.
PJ
From R2BESHON@aol.com Mon Mar 6 18:05:45 2000
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:05:45 EST
From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com
Subject: [AG] time to trim
please advise me when is the best time to trim back the following:
silvery cassia
brittlebush
fairy duster
baja ruellia
i want to trim them b4 they start to bloom. thank you. i live in pv.
From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Mar 6 18:45:53 2000
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:45:53 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [AG] Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9
Julie:
That helps a lot to know that you live here in the Valley. A Columbine that
does well here is the Golden-spurred Columbine, which is native to the
Southwest. It blooms Spring through Fall and is evergreen. It prefers damp,
shady areas so it is a perfect plant for difficult shady spots found around
buildings. Cut back old stems for rebloom. It also does well in large pots.
According to Carol Schuler in her book, Low Water Use Plants, this Columbine
is often found growing with Texas Betony (Stachys coccinea) in its native
habitat.
Regarding Lilac. I understand that people have had some success here in the
low desert with Persian Lilac. According the Sunset Western Garden Book,
this variety grows in a loose, graceful form to about 6 ft. Arching branches
with 2-1/2 inch long leaves. Many clusters of fragrant pale violet flowers
appear along branches in May (April in warmer areas). I would check with a
local nursery and see if they carry this one.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
julie provo wrote:
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sue Bass
> To:
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 10:20 PM
> Subject: Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9
>
> > If your question has not already been answered for you, may I ask what
> area you are
> > referring to as Zone 9? I am more accustomed to Sunsets climate zones,
> which are
> > numbered differently from the USDA's. Knowing where you are will better
> help me to
> > answer the question. Thank you!
> > Sue Bass
> > Master Gardener
> >
> > jcp.provo@mindspring.com wrote:
> >
> > > arid_gardener
> > > hi!
> > > would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can,
> when should i.
> > > also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9??
> > > thanx!!
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Arid_gardener mailing list
> > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
> > > Archives -
> > Hi!
> I live in Glendale arizona. My zip is 85301. I hope that helps.
> Thanx! julie provo
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 6 22:30:25 2000
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 17:30:25 EST
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Turf fertilizer that is safe for dogs
Most fertilizers if watered in well immediately after application should be
ok for dogs. If you want an organic turf fertilizer, Hickmans sells one made
from chicken manure. I'm sure that there must be others out there.
Good luck. Rod
From slmcclan@theremc.com Mon Mar 6 22:22:55 2000
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:22:55 -0700 (MST)
From: slmcclan@theremc.com slmcclan@theremc.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How can I get starts or bulbs of you plants? Please give me information.
Thanks
From rachlynn17@hotmail.com Mon Mar 6 23:20:36 2000
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 16:20:36 -0700 (MST)
From: rachlynn17@hotmail.com rachlynn17@hotmail.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I need to know if Plants help reduce second-hand smoke?
From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Tue Mar 7 17:07:36 2000
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:07:36 EST
From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com
Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
In a message dated 3/5/00 8:40:18 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
tom.sharp@asu.edu writes:
<< arid_gardener
I have a Palo Brea tree in my desert landscape that appears to be under
attack by woodpeckers. The tree has been in our landscape for two years and
is now about ten feet tall. The symptoms are holes in the bark that are
oozing sap and forming large amber-like deposits on the trunk and limbs.
There are also numerous patches (1 square inch) of bare wood where the bark
has been removed. I have seen woodpeckers on the tree pecking away so I have
attributed the damage to them. There is no sign of insects or other
parasites that the birds may be feeding on. My questions are: Is the damage
likely to be from the woodpeckers? If it is, what is the most effective way
to protect the tree from further damage? Is this problem serious enough to
threaten the life of the tree? Thanks for your suggestions.
best regards
Tom Sharp
>>
I do not know if anyone has yet responded to Mr. Sharp's question of 3/5, so
I will offer some information.
Palo brea or Cercidium praecox is generally a wonderful xeriscape tree. The
fact that woodpeckers are pecking at the tree indicates that the birds might
be searching for bugs more so than chiseling away at the bark for something
to do. Pests/bugs would invade diseased trees more so than healthy trees
leading you to think of an
underlying condition.
The oozing sap deposits throughout the limbs and trunk area could indicate a
type of bacterial "wetwood" problem that begins with chronic bleeding of sap.
This sap would eventually discolor and smell foul due to the bacteria
causing the problem inside the sapwood and heartwood areas of the tree.
Usually this type of infection is found in ash, elm, and mesquite trees.
The other problem could also be a type of wood rot or decay caused by a
fungus inside the woody tissue of the tree. This type of problem progresses
slowly and would not usually manifest itself so quickly as you have described.
A third consideration would be a palo verde beetle that throughout its life
cycle (grub to beetle), lives in the ground and eats roots. The beetles
eventually emerge and leave telltale holes in the ground around the tree.
Once again, this is a secondary problem to the real underlying cause.
Another pest, like a borer (again grub-beetle lifecycle) could be responsible
for the damage. Further inspection of these holes in your tree would show
signs of grubs (the birds are after) and tunnels beneath the bark.
All of these symptoms and causes have no chemical control. Generally, it is
physical removal of infected wood. The beetles and borers can be treated in
certain circumstances, but further identification is necessary and beyond my
realm.
Please ask for further assistance and advice in treating your palo verde
tree.
Hopefully, I have helped you out with this information.
Val Meyers
ACNP with the ANA
From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Mar 7 19:18:14 2000
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:14 EST
From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com
Subject: [AG] time to trim
Hello,
The following information is taken from Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A.
Johnson.
1. Silvery Cassia (Cassia phyllodinea) Prune when flowering is complete
in late winter early spring while weather is cool.
2. Brittle Bush (Encelia farinosa) Prune after flowering ends in the
late spring, trim tall flower stems down to leaves. If plant becomes too
vigorous thin out at least 1/3 before heat arrives.
3. Ruellia species Prune prior to end of winter, cut off old growth to
about 6 inches but it mentions Baja ruellia need minimal pruning unless it
has frost damage. If you see damage just remove that which is damaged.
4. Fairy Duster (Calliandra californica) Baja Fairy Duster Prune in late
spring fro rapid recovery. Avoid pruning in hot weather. Reduce by no more
than 20 % at one time.
Hope this helps. I have no idea where pv might be locat