From gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:45:50 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 12:45:50 -0700 From: Glenn C. Wright gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Gophers in the garden At 12:00 PM 02/29/2000 -0700, you wrote:
>
I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have
>tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a
>cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull!
>Thank you

And Mr. Olsen replied...

>the only thing i can think of, is calling a pestcontrol company. or,building
>a raised planter with chickenwire at the bottom.

I have had a lot of luck with the Black Hole gopher trap.  This trap is fairly easy to use.  Simply dig up one of the gopher mounds and place the trap at the end of  the run.  Then put a piece of fresh vegetable in the back of the trap, this acts as the bait.  Then tie a piece of string or twine to the trap and anchor it to a wire stake.  This keeps a struggling gopher from pulling the trap into the run and allows you to find it.  Then cover the entire trap with soil.  Be sure to pack the soil around the trap so that no incidental light enters the trap.  You are trying to fool the gopher into believing that the interior of the trap is just another part of his run.  When the gopher is caught, you can shake his dead body out of the trap without having to touch him.  I have caught gophers within 1/2 hour of setting out the trap.  You can see what the trap looks like at the following website: http://= www.blkholetrap.com/traps.html.  The traps are available at most better hardware stores.

Good luck.
Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 520-726-0458
FAX: 520-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu From jrlinden@usa.net Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:49:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 11:49:26 -0700 (MST) From: jrlinden@usa.net jrlinden@usa.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to grow a/some apple tree/s. What would survive in Cave Creek, AZ and bear good fruit? Tnx, JR Linden, Cave Creek, AZ From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:04:38 -0700 Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 18:04:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Ground squirrels This question is best directed to your own county extension office. Please see the list of links in oour website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#CE Good luck with your beast! Linda Guy Master Gardener, Maricopa County, AZ Dfgray31@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have one resident ground squirrel in my back yard. I wouldn't mind so much > except that he steals the fruit from my plum tree. > > Is it legal to poison them in California? I have no pets or small children > around the house so poison bait in itself would not be dangerous. > > If I can poison him (or them), wwhat is the bvest material to use? Can use > one use gopher bait? > > Thank you. > > Daniel F. Gray, M.D. > dfgray31@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:17:55 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:17:55 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Mature Lemon Tree We have a category of our Home Horticulture publications that are dedicated to citrus. See http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus You can order a copy [instructions at top of page] or peruse them in the reference section of your local public library. One that I'm particularly fond of is no longer available however; it was printed in the mid-80s. In general pruning for mature citrus trees is mostly based on aesthetics and should involve the periodic removal of dead wood. Lemon varieties can be particularly susceptible to inside shoot growth and these should be thinned out to avoid branch competition inside the tree canopy. You should always remove suckers that arise from below the bud union. My reference material suggests that lemons grow more rapidly than other citrus. Do moderate pruning of the very long, vigorous top shoots that can be 18-24 inches long during the spring and summer to maintain a more balanced and pleasing shape. In summary, the larger your tree's canopy the more of the tree's 'production capacity' you have. At a mature stage, the size/shape is up to you. However, we don't ever suggest removing more than 1/3 of the live canopy in a single season. If your lemon is very out of control, you may need a few seasons to really shape it up. For ideas on smart pruning techniques, consult our publication MC 19 Pruning Digest for Landscape Plants, which is in the Ornamental section of the same list of pubs. Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener suzmike@openlines.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an overgrown Lemmon tree. Where can I find information on pruning this tree back in overall size? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:32:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:32:47 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Long-stem Roses Hi Michele, As I said earlier, roses are not my specialty. I've just skimmed the rather large section on roses in the Sunset Western Garden Book, and it seems that what you are looking for will be found in the Hybrid tea class of roses. I believe it is a question of planting the appropriate variety and not a question of your cultivation practices. However, it may be too late to plant and get a new variety established for this season, since we recommend this be done in January. The best advice I can give you is to contact the rose society that is closest to your residence. Please consult our list of local garden clubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Michele M. Mardick" wrote: > arid_gardener I have 18 rose bushes. They are all Hybrid Teas, is there any way that I can grow long stem roses, like you would by from a florist? Is there any way that I could grow even long stem carnations? > M I C H E L E M A R D I C K B L A I N > BUSINESS RESOURCE GROUP > 6720 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 > Scottsdale, AZ 85253 > 480-367-5023 direct > 480-367-5001 fax > mmardick@brg.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:40:31 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:40:31 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Planting Sunflowers; Care for Mesquite Tree Sunflower seeds can be planted as early as February (make sure sun is available) through October. They are best planted directly into your garden soil rather than starting in pots and transplanted. Consult our publication AZ1100 Flower Planting Guide for the Low Desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers for information on these and many other flowers. Leaf loss in the winter is fairly typical of desert leguminous trees, which are semi-to-fully deciduous. However, if your tree has not grown with the care you've indicated, there is a strong possibility that it may have been root bound when you planted it and it will be a matter of time before it declines or blows over in a storm for lack of extended root zone. Another possibility could be that it was planted in a particularly hard area of soil, perhaps bound up by caliche layers, which is preventing the root zone from spreading. In general, the live canopy will progress to the extent the root zone can. Dig around the tree and see if you notice either of these conditions. Linda Guy Master Gardener paradiseoasis@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > When is the best time to plant sunflower seed? > Also I have a chilean mesquite tree that is about 5 years old and it hasn't grown at all since it's been planted. Is there something wrong with the tree or is it still adapting to it's environment? It loses its leaves in the winter and I usually cut back the frost damaged twiggs in the spring. It's planted on the SW side of the house and get pretty much full sun. And get regular deep watering. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:53:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 06:53:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lilacs I didn't think that the traditional lilac of my younger days back east grew in our area [there are exceptions to every rule of course!]. In consulting the Sunset Western Garden Book, pages 499-500, only the Common Lilac [Syringa vularis] is even listed for our zone, with the admonition that the plants bloom irregularly because of our mild winters. Apparently lilacs do best when they are subjected to intense winter chill which we can't regularly provide. Your positioning at the NE corner of your house, where the north facade would have created a cooler micro-climate seems to have been the ticket to your previous success. However, all plants need some sunlight, hence your bush's tendency to reach for the sun because of its relative absence for the winter months. However, I'm fairly certain there is a desert-adapted shrub that is much like a lilac in appearance. Unfortunately, I can't find it in my material and the names eludes me. I hope that after reading this on the server, one of my colleagues will know and share that information with you. By the way, was the variety you purchased at Home Depot the same [Syringa vulgaris]? Or was it perhaps the desert plant whose name I can't find? Linda Guy Master Gardener jljake1957@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am trying to grow a lilac here. I had one growing well at my previous address in a NE exposure. However, it always seemed to be reaching for the sun. I've tried two since moving, I have all exposures available in which to plant it. The plants don't seem happy no matter what I do - too much sun here, too little there. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:08:14 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:08:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Aphids Aphids love tender new vegetation of any sort. They've even attacked my desert natives in the past. I don't use the type of products that you've tried. I've had reasonably good success with a homemade insecticial soap which we recommend in the Master Gardener Entomology Manual: two tablespoons of liquid detergent per gallon of water. This is sprayed directly on the aphids. In major infestations, I have also used Eco-oils. I understand that rotenone is can also be effective. Natural predators are ladybugs and lacewings. They would also be impacted by the spray you used, however. Some people try to encourage their presence with pheremone lures. If your tomatoes are failing to thrive, you may need to consider new plants if the aphid damage is too severe. Linda Guy Master Gardener Gregcm2@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > 1.Can I do anything now to prevent aphids on my tomatoes and herbs? And later on 2-29-00 I planted the tomatoes Feb. 15 and had an aphid the first day. I've used Ortho Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer and Maxide Diazinon (0.058%) Insect Killer Spray. They seem to have stressed the plants as they haven't grown at all. I used the Maxide before going on vacation for 9 days. > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:29:03 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 13:29:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Locating Publications in Library] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------E9B2486456CFD14A01349D2E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cathy, If the attached represents what is actually in the libraries, should we stop referring the folks asking questions to the Public Library System? Does anyone know what libraries or library systems still have the volume(s) of Home Horticulture Pubs? I thought these were maintained by MG volunteers around the valley. Linda Guy --------------E9B2486456CFD14A01349D2E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp02.primenet.com (smtp02.primenet.com [206.165.6.132]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id KAA17045 for ; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:13:21 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp02.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id KAA29426 for ; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:12:55 -0700 (MST) Received: from post1.inre.asu.edu(129.219.13.100) via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA5xa4w5; Wed Mar 1 10:12:42 2000 Received: from aztec2.asu.edu (aztec2.asu.edu [198.60.132.11]) by asu.edu (PMDF V5.2-31 #33824) with ESMTP id <0FQR006R46G5M1@asu.edu> for laguy2@primenet.com; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:12:05 -0700 (MST) Received: (from uncas@localhost) by aztec2.asu.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) id KAA17725; Wed, 01 Mar 2000 10:12:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 10:12:04 -0700 (MST) From: uncas@aztec.asu.edu (MARJORIE D. SYKES) Subject: Re: [AG] Locating Publications in Library To: laguy2@primenet.com Reply-to: uncas@aztec.asu.edu Message-id: <200003011712.KAA17725@aztec2.asu.edu> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda - No tisn't so. I did a survey for Carolyn Chard and located the volume in a number of libraries. I think that one librarian knew where it was. None of the others had any idea of its presence. The number is 635 general reference and its called Horticulture Publications. The Harmon Branch of Phx Public had thrown it away because it was in English. Mesquite had no idea if they ever had it because they were building and some of the collection was stored. I had to contact a librarian who was there before the building began and she remembered using it. --------------E9B2486456CFD14A01349D2E-- From mbandrowsk@aol.com Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:02:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 09:02:28 -0700 (MST) From: mbandrowsk@aol.com mbandrowsk@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a 15 gal. citrus tree that we planted in October and will be leaving the area in April. We have an automatic drip systen and would like to know the amount of water and how often we should be watering it during the summer months while we are away? From j.bowen@worldnet.att.net Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:39:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 29 Feb 2000 19:39:10 -0700 (MST) From: j.bowen@worldnet.att.net j.bowen@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We currently have a nice rye grass lawn. We would like to make the transition to bermuda grass and would like to know how to overseed bermuda on top of the rye and when would be an ideal time to do it in Tucson. Thank you, JoAnn and Monte Bowen From tony.baird@tenethealth.com Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:43:00 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 13:43:00 -0700 (MST) From: tony.baird@tenethealth.com tony.baird@tenethealth.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I control fire blight on established (20 year old) pyracantha plants that are 10 feet high and 2 feet across. There are 14 plants forming a hedge 80 feet long. Have tried streptomycin, and triple action with some success, but it keeps coming back and gaining on me. How about copper sulfate or home remedies like tobacco juice/listerine solutions. If this makes sense, what is the home formula. Anything new on the market. I hate to have them die on me. From lippold@asu.edu Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:38:16 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 11:38:16 -0700 From: Mary Lippold lippold@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Mulberry Trees This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF83AD.4ED08032 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello - I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are getting quite old. I think they are almost 30 - 35 years old. One of them is diseased and not producing new growth this year. I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like the other two trees are infected also. First they lose bark and look moldy, the branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them. Is there anything I can do at this point to try and save them or is it too late? Thank you for your help - Mary Ellen --- Mary Ellen Lippold ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY Department of Psychology Tempe, AZ 85287-1104 (480) 727-6126 - (480) 727-6176 Fax RIPL Team The bedrock of mathematics is the proof -- the logical argument that something is or is not true. But often there are many ways to prove the same thing, and mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the most "beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & Sky" ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF83AD.4ED08032 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Mulberry Trees

Hello -

I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are = getting quite old.  I think they are almost 30 - 35 years = old.  One of them is diseased and not producing new growth this = year.  I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like the other = two trees are infected also.  First they lose bark and look moldy, = the branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them.  Is = there anything I can do at this point to try and save them or is it too = late?

Thank you for your help - Mary = Ellen

---
Mary Ellen Lippold
ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY
Department of Psychology
Tempe, AZ  = 85287-1104
(480) 727-6126 - (480) = 727-6176  Fax
RIPL  Team
The bedrock of mathematics = is the proof -- the logical argument that something is or is not true. = But often there are many ways to prove the same thing, and = mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the most = "beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & = Sky"

------_=_NextPart_001_01BF83AD.4ED08032-- From magspeed@compuserve.com Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:28:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:28:25 -0700 (MST) From: magspeed@compuserve.com magspeed@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have rose bushes that appear to be eaten by some animal but we can't figure out what is doing the damage. We live near Carefree, AZ and planted the bushes against the back of our house. Within days, they were attacked and almost look like the stems have been clipped or completely cut off. Can you help us solve this mystery and suggest any ways to save our roses? From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Wed, 1 Mar 2000 20:47:59 EST Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 20:47:59 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I monitor the questions posed to arid-gardener and would like to respond to your question of fireblight affecting your pyracantha. This information is based on personal experience with several plants my grandmother grew in arbor fashion last year. First, fireblight is caused by a bacterium, so think "sanitary" when dealing with the problem. The bacteria can regain strength and activity in the warmer weather from existing areas of infected wood on the plant already. If it looks like it is scorched, try to cut the limb or twig 6-12 inches below the affected area. The treatments that you have used of a copper application are helpful, but a spray application is best. Keep in mind that fireblight is spread through the blossom into new and existing wood by watering, rain, insects like bees and flies and even "unsanitary pruning". So apply your preventative copper spray to the plants, primarily concentrating on the existing blooms, prune off infected parts of the plant and handle diseased material with the same hand and dispose of promptly in a sealed bag. Just remember that you can spread the bacteria to healthy plant material with your pruning shears. Hopefully this will guide you in the right direction and get the fireblight under control and finally gone from your pyracantha. Ask for additional information on using repeated applications of the streptomyacin and copper remedies for I do not have an answer on this. Good luck, Valerie Meyers ACNP with the ANA From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:03:20 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:03:20 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Arizona Black Walnut Trees Thank you for being patient, Mr. Baker. We are a very small group of Master Gardener volunteers with a very large inbox of questions to research/answer! I do not have personal experience with this tree so I consulted the Sunset Western Garden Book (page 521) to assist you. It suggests that the Nogal or Arizona Walnut (Juglans major or J. rupestris major) can grow in our zone 13 environment. This is a native of Arizona, New Mexico and northern Mexico that grows to 50 feet, so I hope you positioned your new trees with ample room, away from power lines or other restrictions. The entry says it takes desert heat and wind; that it needs deep soil and some water. This would suggest that you check the soil in the area you planted to ensure the roots won't hit hard layers. An interesting consideration for this tree, though particularly noted for the English and California black walnuts, is that aphids just love their new growth. You probably already know that these pests exude a honeydew substance; given the volume of aphids potentially attracted to the trees, they should not be placed over a driveway or patio...it would be bad news for the cars or furnishings beneath the tree's branches. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener Burt Baker wrote: > No I did not receive a reply. I thought maybe no one knows the answer to > this question. I bought a couple of 5 gal. trees from Mr. Baker (Baker's > Nursery). He said they were grown from nuts of a tree in Wilcox. I don't > know of any specimens in the lower valley so I thought I would plant them > and see what happens. Please let me know if there are any mature trees in > the Phoenix area. Thank You. > > >From: "Linda A. Guy" > >To: zbinternational@hotmail.com > >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 07:15:47 -0700 > > > >Did you ever receive a reply from us? > > > >L. Guy > > > >zbinternational@hotmail.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > Can anyone tell me if arizona black walnut trees will grow in the > >Phoenix area? Typically I think they are found at higher and cooler > >elevations. Thank You > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:47:19 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:47:19 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Mesquite trees Please accept my apologies for the delayed response which was not in time for your meeting. We are a small group of volunteer Master Gardeners and sometimes the volume of questions is very large. In the future, please consider contacting your own county's Cooperative Extension office for horticultural assistance, particularly if you are pressed for time. It is found in the county listing in the blue-government pages of the phone book. In general, the pruning one does in the January timeframe is for deciduous fruit trees. Leguminous desert species are recommended to receive pruning as they begin to leaf out in early spring. However, I know of at least one horticultural authority, Judy Mielke, who recommends a fall to early winter pruning for mesquites because they are 'bleeders', exuding sap when pruned. Perhaps you can change tactics and make a good case for altering the horticultural practices that are generating such lush growth. I have some notes from a MG meeting with Mary Irish, formerly of the Desert Botanical Garden and very well-respected in our community, where we were discussing the use of native species in the landscape. Mary was challenging us to consider treating these types of trees the way they are handled in a natural setting. That is, forego a biweekly drip irrigation and do 2 to 3 major soaks in the year (2 in summer, one in winter) to emulate the water of the storm/flash flood cycles we have. And the fertilizer provided in nature is the dropping of the trees' pods themselves. With this strategy Mary suggested that a seasonal prune or two should be sufficient. In other words, if we 'cared less' for this type of tree, we'd have a less lush specimen, one that provided more filtered shade that would be less obstructive for your neighbors' view. And your HOA would spend less money on the mounds of vegetation that is pruned and hauled away to a landfill. In my own yard, I follow this strategy. Most desert trees are not on drip, else I'd spend the whole summer trimming them up. The few that are have been left 'off'. I follow the 2-3 soaks a year strategy and have never fertilized any of these trees because there simply was no need to do so. Not only have they grown beautifully, but so have the plants beneath that receive some filtered sunlight AND my arms are a whole lot less scratched since the pruning is less frequent. My husband likes the latter alot! Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener, Maricopa County "Jim Basso (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > arid_gardener > We have 17 of these trees in our common area of our HOA > Our new Maintenance Mgr refused to trim them last summer > over the objections of the owners whose view was being blocked, > and stated that they should only be trimmed in Jan. or Feb. and > evidently our board agreed with him. I would like to take this contrary > opinion to our HOA meeting Monday, Feb. 21th > > Thanks Jim Basso in Green Valley,Az > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:01:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:01:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Care for Lady Banks Roses Elaine, I apologize for a delayed response. We are a small group of Master Gardener volunteers and lately our inboxes have been filled to overflowing with horticultural questions. I do not grow roses, but in the interest of helping you seek some answers I would first suggest you contact the Rose Society nearest your home. Consult our garden club list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Roses do require seasonal fertilizing and pruning. This month, you should be continuing a regular (every 6 week) course of feeding. One way to keep on top of your rose duties is to consult our Timely Tips pages. Roses have their own subheading. Pruning was an activity that was best suited for January. I'm sorry, but I don't know if it's still advisable to proceed with pruning now, although it sounds like your roses could benefit, if they haven't been pruned for years. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/march.htm The Sunset Western Garden Book has a substantial section on roses, beginning on p. 462. It's worth your time to read, and it's usually in the public library. Again I apologize that a volunteer rosarian was not available to handle your question. Good luck to you! Linda Guy Master Gardener Elaine Ball wrote: > Unfortunately NO I’m still waiting… > Thanks > Elaine > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda A. Guy [mailto:laguy2@primenet.com] > Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 7:15 AM > To: elaine.ball@americanfence.com > Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Did you ever receive a reply from us? > > L. Guy > > elaine.ball@americanfence.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > I have 2 lady banks roses and this is their third season > and I get very few flowers. One is on a north facing wall and the other on a > west facing wall. > > > > Should I prune them? > > Should I use a special fertalizer ( use fish Emulsion on > my regular roses) > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:06:54 -0700 Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:06:54 -0700 From: Mike Sheedy msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Gophers I have an ongoing battle with gophers in my backyard. After being bitten twice, I decided to remove these pests permanently. I found the best way is to use gopher traps. These can be purchased at your local hardware store. These traps come as a set of two spring loaded prongs, that work like any other animal trap. Connect the two traps together with a light chain. You need to dig around the gopher hole on the surface and find the main tunnel. Our gophers tunnels are about 8"-10" deep. You may need to dig as far as 1' away from the surface hole. You should see two openings in the main tunnel. Set the spring loaded traps (ask the hardware store how to do this). Place one loaded trap in each of the tunnels. I found that the traps must be placed as far into the main tunnel as you can (about 4" or more). When the gopher comes around to the opening in the tunnel and releases the trap, the spring loaded prongs pierce the abdomen and kills the gopher. You can check the traps after a couple of days just by pulling on the chain. Hopefully there will be a dead gopher hanging in the trap. You can toss the carcass in the garbage can or bury it in the garden for compost. I've done both. Don't forget to check the traps regularly. There should be no danger to your animals or other wildlife unless they are digging around the main tunnel area. If there is a large population of gophers, you may need to set the traps about once a week to remove these animals >Message: 7 >From: "don olson" >To: >Cc: >Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 19:58:53 -0700 >charset="iso-8859-1" > >the only thing i can think of, is calling a pestcontrol company. or,building >a raised planter with chickenwire at the bottom. >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:08 AM >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > >> arid_gardener >> I would like to plant a garden this Spring however we have gophers. Have >tried the pellets to no avail. They throw them out when digging. We have a >cat so I need something to not effect her. Any info would be helpfull! >Thank you Mike Sheedy Research Specialist University of Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center From gene.reeck@asm.com Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST) From: gene.reeck@asm.com gene.reeck@asm.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Ficus Nitida is not growing at the rate I think it should. The tips of the new shoots are drying up before they turn into leaves. Same plant on the other side of the fence is doing great. It has water. What is the proble,? From pbdk@netzone.com Wed, 01 Mar 2000 09:00:47 -0700 Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 09:00:47 -0700 From: Paul & Barb Bourscheidt pbdk@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Waterwise Gardening and Landscape Festival Is this the correct e-mail address to send a notice of our festival? It is sponsored by the "High Country Xeriscape Council of Arizona" in cooperation with the Town of Payson, and many local businesses and agencies. Master gardeners are an integral part of the volunteer staff, and several extension agents will be participating. Thank you for your reply From gene.reeck@asm.com Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:47:06 -0700 (MST) From: gene.reeck@asm.com gene.reeck@asm.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Ficus Nitida is not growing at the rate I think it should. The tips of the new shoots are drying up before they turn into leaves. Same plant on the other side of the fence is doing great. It has water. What is the problem? From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 02 Mar 2000 13:17:55 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 13:17:55 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] free seeds --=====================_21797683==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" America the Beautiful Fund is offering FREE SEEDS! to make the new Millennium Green. Here is your chance to help feed hungry citizens and improve your local parks, nursing homes, libraries, community gardens, schools and other public spaces by planting vegetable and flower seed. Let a garden be testament to your commitment to a better future. To ensure your legacy, bury a time capsule marked with an excavation date in your Millennium Garden. Include your community's history and aspirations so that those who follow in your footsteps will "Honor the Past-Imagine the Future". These are 1999 seeds with germination rates of 85% to 90%. Grants of 100 to 1,000 seed packets are being offered on the basis of availability and relative need. Since the early days of America, part of the democratic spirit on which this country was built took form in the sharing of gardening skills and plants. As the Native Americans shared their plants with hungry Pilgrims, so we now advocate plants as a means to promote charitable good works. There has never been a better time to make a difference! To request a FREE SEED! Grant simply: 1. Write a short letter describing your project 2. Fill out the application form below 3. Enclose a check for shipping and handling 4. Mail it to the following address: America the Beautiful Fund, 1730 K St., N.W., Suite 1002, Washington, D.C. 20006 The Supply is limited so send in your request today! And don't forget your membership contribution for newsletter, hotline and educational materials! ____________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________ ________I don't have a charitable project, but please accept my gift of ____________ for shipping seeds to needy projects across the country. ____________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________ Project Information Shipping and Handling fees First set of 100 packets =$12.00 _________________________________________________ ____Additional set(s) of 100x$5 each =_______ Contact name Please specify amounts below: _________________________________________________ Vegetable____________Flower_______________ Project Name Herbs are extremely limited and will only be sent if a special request is made. _____________________________________________________________________ Annual Contributing Membership ($10) =_______ Street Address (No PO Boxes Please) _________________________________________________ Total =_________ City State Zipcode _____________________________________________________________________ Phone Number Fax Number E-Mail Address ____________________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________ Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_21797683==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" America the Beautiful Fund is offering FREE SEEDS! to make the new Millennium Green.  Here is your chance to help feed hungry citizens and improve your local parks, nursing homes, libraries, community gardens, schools and other public spaces by planting vegetable and flower seed.  Let a garden be testament to your commitment to a better future.  To ensure your legacy, bury a time capsule marked with an excavation date in your Millennium Garden.  Include your community's history and aspirations so that those who follow in your footsteps will "Honor the Past-Imagine the Future".

These are 1999 seeds with germination rates of 85% to 90%.  Grants of 100 to 1,000 seed packets are being offered on the basis of availability and relative need.

Since the early days of America, part of the democratic spirit on which this country was built took form in the sharing of gardening skills and plants.  As the Native Americans shared their plants with hungry Pilgrims, so we now advocate plants as a means to promote charitable good works.  There has never been a better time to make a difference!  To request a FREE SEED! Grant simply:

1. Write a short letter describing your project
2. Fill out the application form below
3. Enclose a check for shipping and handling
4. Mail it to the following address:
America the Beautiful Fund, 1730 K St., N.W., Suite 1002, Washington, D.C. 20006

The Supply is limited so send in your request today!  And don't forget your membership contribution for newsletter, hotline and educational materials!


_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

________I don't have a charitable project, but please accept my gift of ____________ for shipping seeds to needy projects across the country.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
                Project Information                                                             Shipping and Handling fees

                                                                                First set of 100 packets                        =$12.00
_________________________________________________                       ____Additional set(s) of 100x$5 each    =_______
Contact name
                                                                                Please specify amounts below:

_________________________________________________                       Vegetable____________Flower_______________
Project Name                                                                    Herbs are extremely limited and will only be sent if a special request is made.


_____________________________________________________________________                   Annual Contributing Membership ($10)    =_______
Street Address (No PO Boxes Please)


_________________________________________________                                               Total           =_________
City            State           Zipcode


_____________________________________________________________________
Phone Number            Fax Number              E-Mail Address

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_21797683==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:41:56 EST Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:41:56 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ficus nitida, new growth dying Gene, please furnish us with additional information such as irrigation interval and amount; is the tree planted in turf; have you fertilized, when and with what. How old is the tree? Thanks, Rod McKusick, Master Gardener and Arborist From Tjb72229@aol.com Thu, 02 Mar 2000 11:09:13 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 11:09:13 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley Tjb72229@aol.com Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii) Can you tell me anything about this plant, such as care etc.? I have been unable to find any information at all. Thank you From dolsontree@hotmail.com Thu, 2 Mar 2000 01:50:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 01:50:18 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page cut at the node or joint,let it dry in the shade until the wound has formed a callus.it might take 3 weeks.after it is healed over,plant it and mist spray it lightly for a week.water extremely sparingly,even during the summer,until it has put down some roots.fertilize only if it's absolutely necessary-very little.use low nitrogen fertilizer. CUL8R ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 9:06 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > What the procedure for planting cuttings from cactus plants? > Is it recommended to dry them out first? > How often should they be watered and/or fertilized? > Thanks! > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From joannmc777@aol.com Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:17:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:17:49 -0700 (MST) From: joannmc777@aol.com joannmc777@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This isn't really a gardening question, but I was hoping you could help. My husband began "allergy season" yesterday and I would like to know what blooms October through December and March through April (till it gets to 100 every day). BUT he has NO allergy problems in December and January. Any ideas? Thanks! From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 21:33:21 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 21:33:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Overseeding Bermuda grass Joann and Monte: Please check out the following page of our Master Gardener manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html It contains lots of information on lawns including when and how to seed (or sod) Bermuda. Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener j.bowen@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We currently have a nice rye grass lawn. We would like to make the transition to bermuda grass and would like to know how to overseed bermuda on top of the rye and when would be an ideal time to do it in Tucson. > Thank you, > JoAnn and Monte Bowen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:04:11 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:04:11 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Hostas Please take a look at the response to a similar question about hostas in our archives at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0386.html They generally do not do well in our desert climate. In this archive there are recommendations for other plants that are suitable. Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener raddadtwo@email.msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Has anyone had success with Hostas? I have a "mini-climate" area under a deep overhang with an opaque skylight. In hot sun, an awning covers it so there's filtered/indirect light. Can you suggest which Hostas might be the best-I really like the blues!!!Any hands-on tips would be really appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:13:19 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:13:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Herbs between Pavers Your mother might want to try thyme between the stepping stones. According to the Sunset Western Garden Book, thyme will grow in full sun to light shade, but needs some summer water in the hottest areas. Two that are specifically mentioned for use between stepping stones are Creeping thyme, which can take light foot traffic, and Woolly Thyme. Thyme would release its fragrance when brushed, which would be a nice touch. Sue Bass Master Gardener . TepeKIT-Jackie@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My mother just laid flagstone on the east side of her house. It gets sunlight but not for very long due to the house being on the west of the area and a 6 ft. fence on the east and north sides. She would like to plant some herbs and grasses in the 2-4" crevices between the stones. What herbs and grasses would be suitable for this. They might even get stepped on occasionally. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:20:56 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:20:56 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9 If your question has not already been answered for you, may I ask what area you are referring to as Zone 9? I am more accustomed to Sunsets climate zones, which are numbered differently from the USDA's. Knowing where you are will better help me to answer the question. Thank you! Sue Bass Master Gardener jcp.provo@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > hi! > would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can, when should i. > also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9?? > thanx!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:24:03 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:24:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Apple Varieties I think the following page from the Master Gardener manual will be helpful in answering your questions about apple varieties. Please visit: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/planting.html#varieties Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener jrlinden@usa.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to grow a/some apple tree/s. What would survive in Cave Creek, AZ and bear good fruit? Tnx, JR Linden, Cave Creek, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:01:44 -0700 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:01:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii) This is a tough one to find! The only information I have been able to turn up so far about Pachypodium gaeyi is that it is a 'Madagasgar palm', long gray-green leaves with pink mid-stripe. The Madagasgar palm mentioned in the Sunset Western Garden book is Pachypodium lamerei, which has long, glossy green leaves. The information that I have on that is that it is a house plant or indoor/outdoor succulent, likes part shade; bright indoor light, water only when soil is dry, needs excellent drainage, cannot stand frost. You may already know that. I have been searching the internet for information on gaeyi and all I could come up with was the above leaf description. Perhaps someone in the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society could help? Here is their information: The Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society meets at 2:00 p.m. the last Sunday of the month Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 Galvin Parkway, Phoenix, AZ Contact: Deborah Korobkin, P.O. Box 8774, Scottsdale, AZ 85252 (602) 493-7003 Maybe Deborah Korobkin can give you some direction. Good Luck!!! Sue Bass Master Gardener "by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > arid_gardener > Can you tell me anything about this plant, such as care etc.? I have been > unable to find any information at all. > > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 01:03:31 EST Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 01:03:31 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Allergies My allergies began about a week ago, the day before there was an article in the newspaper about allergies starting. Then it let up for a few days. It hasn't bothered me at all today till I came in at 9 pm tonight to play with the computer - then my eyes really started itching. Different people have different things they are allergic to. Even tho you don't plant the plants he may be allergic to, your neighbor to the east of you, the west of you, a couple blocks to the south of you may plant it and pollen travels for a distance, especially when there is a wind. I grew up in Colorado, but I didn't have hay fever till I moved to Arizona. I have it worse in the spring than I do in the fall, but I find as I get older that my allergies aren't bothering me as much as they used to. Val From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:38:55 EST Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:38:55 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] madascar palm (pachypodium gaeyii) I have a little more information concerning the question on Madagascar palms.... The Madagascar palm is not a true palm...It is actually in the same family of plants as the oleander and can have a poisonous residue or sap. The botanical name is Pachypodium lamerei (largest of the species) and others P. geayi (silvery leaves)and P. saundersii (I believe that this one has more colorful leaves). All make wonderful inside house plant specimens for high li ght areas. Pachypodiums like warmer temps and a dry soil well draining soil and should only be watered when the plant has leaves. They can drop leaves during a resting phase and this excess water can rot the plant. These plants will do well outside in the right secluded location or entry way protected from frost and cold temps (they need almost a year to adapt and larger specimens do better than small ones outside). A pest common to this plant indoors is spider mite. Hopefully I have supplemented some additional information that you will find useful. Val Meyers ACNP with ANA From Aaaorvca@aol.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:27:17 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:27:17 -0700 (MST) From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Aaaorvca@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a orange tree that used to give me oranges, but over the years, they have been polinated by the bees from the lemon tree. Looks like they will eventually be all lemon. Now I'm getting more lemons than I want. What can I do to get my oranges back? IF ANYTHING! From GTaylor@exchange.co.pima.az.us Fri, 03 Mar 2000 07:43:49 -0700 Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 07:43:49 -0700 From: Glenda Taylor GTaylor@exchange.co.pima.az.us Subject: [AG] Kelanchoa (sp) Bought the above plants last year, repotted them after they had ceased blooming. Now the plants are sprouting higher and higher, with no flowers. Is it necessary to keep trimming them down in order for them to bloom? And, should I put them in a bigger pot now that they're sprouting upwards, presumably the roots are sprouting also? Any tips on this would be much appreciated. Glenda From taviab@env.ind.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:54:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 08:54:14 -0700 (MST) From: taviab@env.ind.com taviab@env.ind.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you espalier citrus trees? Good fruit production is not a concern, just survivability while being trained in this way. If so, which types of citrus look or do better? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:04:02 EST Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 13:04:02 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Ficus nitida, new growth dying Gene, Your problem is improper watering. You should be winter watering on a three to four week interval with the water penetrating to a depth of two to three feet. It is time to go on a spring fall schedule which should be every two to three weeks. Summer watering should be every 7 to 10 days. These recommendations are for the low desert and are based on your soil being mostly clay. If your soil is very sandy then you would have to water more frequently.I have several Ficus nitida planted 1 1/2 years ago that are wintered watered once per month with three two gallon drippers for three hours. As the trees matures I will be adding more drippers and a longer irrigation time. Your fertilizer spikes should be placed near the drip line of the tree. Check out the Master Gardener Manual on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From gabriel.munguia@vlsi.com Fri, 03 Mar 2000 16:16:40 -0700 Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 16:16:40 -0700 From: Gabriel Munguia gabriel.munguia@vlsi.com Subject: [AG] transplanting large citrus I am trying to xplant large (5-10ys) red grapefruit trees. I have had them professionally moved into our yard before, but now I get some free ones if I will just dig them up. I can do the work, but the farmer-friend is betting I kill them getting them out. He claims that even an instantaeous crack in the root ball will kill the tree? From n.savage@asu.edu Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:07:18 -0700 Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 22:07:18 -0700 From: N. Savage n.savage@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Fences for coyote exclusion My friend's neighbor (adjacent back yards) just observed a coyote in her yard and has a cat missing. She is concerned and wants to fence her yard so her pets will be safe from these predators. How high should the fence needs to be, what kind of materials and are there any other special building needs. Would anyone have this info or can refer me to resources. Thank you From KSTMetal@aol.com Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:05:04 EST Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:05:04 EST From: KSTMetal@aol.com KSTMetal@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #130 - 2 msgs We have observed the coyotes going over our five foot livestock gate like it was an easy field trial. They have also dug under our hen house to the depth of four feet just to get to the hens and eat 6 or so at a time. We live in PV and not very rural anymore but there are no longer ANY cats around that are left out to fend for themselves for the night. Ours are brought in before the sun sets and aren't let back out until after sunrise. They both come when called fortunately. To keep the coyotes from digging under fences, we dig a trough about two feet and roll up old fencing, chicken wire, hog wire or whatever and bury it. They must not like getting the feeling they will be tangled up if they try in that spot so it has deterred them so far. I would doubt they could get over a six foot fence but I wouldn't put anything past a hungry, smart coyote. Good luck! From joewgardner@yahoo.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:21:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:21:37 -0700 (MST) From: joewgardner@yahoo.com joewgardner@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My citrus tree is looseing all of it leaves like over night.Did I over water? Is this Verticillium Wilt? Help From eighttracker@hotmail.com Fri, 3 Mar 2000 23:38:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 23:38:10 -0700 (MST) From: eighttracker@hotmail.com eighttracker@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where is agood place close to Mesa to buy ocotillos? Best time to transplant? From brenda070@web.net Sat, 4 Mar 2000 09:32:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 09:32:20 -0700 (MST) From: brenda070@web.net brenda070@web.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page why the citris pulp dry this year in FL? From tom.sharp@asu.edu Sat, 4 Mar 2000 11:10:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 11:10:09 -0700 (MST) From: tom.sharp@asu.edu tom.sharp@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Palo Brea tree in my desert landscape that appears to be under attack by woodpeckers. The tree has been in our landscape for two years and is now about ten feet tall. The symtoms are holes in the bark that are oozing sap and forming large amber-like deposits on the trunk and limbs. There are also numerous patches (1 square inch) of bare wood where the bark has been removed. I have seen woodpeckers on the tree pecking away so I have attributed the damage to them. There is no sign of insects or other parasites that the birds may be feeding on. My questions are: Is the damage likely to be from the woodpeckers? If it is, what is the most effective way to protect the tree from further damage? Is this problem serious enough to threaten the life of the tree? Thanks for your suggestions. best regards Tom Sharp From sunfaces2@cs.com Sat, 4 Mar 2000 15:49:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 15:49:50 -0700 (MST) From: sunfaces2@cs.com sunfaces2@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Ranunculus disease? I have been growing ranunculas for years and have never seen this problem: Some of my prized plantings have begun to curl and twist in a deformed manner. On some of the stems the buds have appeared, but suddenly twisted, collapsed and are dying. Many of the stems are swollen and twisted. What's causing this? Why are some beds unaffected? From Egyptadh@aol.com Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:08:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 19:08:16 -0700 (MST) From: Egyptadh@aol.com Egyptadh@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am a beginner and trying to grow vegatables and some fruits, strawberries and pomegrantes. Can you suggest any good books to look into on the best things and ways to grow in this climate? Or any website that might help? The fruits are container plants and the others are in my woefully small garden space. Thank you for any information you can give me. From AZDOVES@AOL.COM Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:48:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 21:48:29 -0700 (MST) From: AZDOVES@AOL.COM AZDOVES@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just moved to Sun City Grand and have a small garden space with it's own water station and I'm wondering for my first garden what vegetables would do well . We have been here in Az for 5 years, but I've grown only citrus.( which were great). I love snap peas, sugar peas, greens, beans, and squash. Any idea's would be great. Thanks, Dena From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:08:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 22:08:47 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have problems growing basil. They always wilt and die on me. I need to know soil, location (east, west,etc)food, temp., sun or no. I was told it can grow all summer long outdoors. Correct? Thank you very much. From chrisb8719@home.net Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:27:46 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 10:27:46 -0700 (MST) From: chrisb8719@home.net chrisb8719@home.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I attract bees to pollinate my canteloupe and zucchini plants. I have luscious group but very little fruit. Is there an artificial way to pollinate if the bees aren't around? Thanks, Clarice Black From DVPDavis1999@aol.com Sun, 5 Mar 2000 15:24:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 15:24:29 -0700 (MST) From: DVPDavis1999@aol.com DVPDavis1999@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We would like to fertilize and seed our two year old mid iron lawn - We have two dogs that have worn it out. Does anyone know of a safe fertilizer or organic substance we could use to re-seed the lawn? Thanks From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:48:07 -0700 Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:48:07 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Vegetable Gardening Dena: Please see the following section of the Master Gardener Manual, pertaining to vegetable gardening. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html This section contains a vegetable planting guide and recommended planting dates which should be very helpful. Sue Bass Master Gardener AZDOVES@AOL.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > I just moved to Sun City Grand and have a small garden space with it's own water station and I'm wondering for my first garden what vegetables would do well . We have been here in Az for 5 years, but I've grown only citrus.( which were great). I love snap peas, sugar peas, greens, beans, and squash. Any idea's would be great. > Thanks, Dena > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:54:06 -0700 Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:54:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Vegetables and fruits] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F34722E39F7B61255C29121D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------F34722E39F7B61255C29121D Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <38C31DA5.2C1D108A@uswest.net> Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 19:53:25 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Egyptadh@aol.com Subject: Re: Vegetables and fruits References: <200003050208.TAA05259@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can find helpful information on Vegetable Gardening in our Master Gardener Manual, which is on-line. The following section pertains to vegetable gardening: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html A book I find very helpful is Desert Gardening, The Complete Guide by George Brookbank. It pertains to fruits and vegetables. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Egyptadh@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am a beginner and trying to grow vegatables and some fruits, strawberries and pomegrantes. Can you suggest any good books to look into on the best things and ways to grow in this climate? Or any website that might help? The fruits are container plants and the others are in my woefully small garden space. Thank you for any information you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------F34722E39F7B61255C29121D-- From PattyJoA@aol.com Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:37:41 EST Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2000 22:37:41 EST From: PattyJoA@aol.com PattyJoA@aol.com Subject: [AG] Questions about Sedrus Deodara PT Greetings! This tree was given as a gift. In reading my Sunset guide, it states that the Sedrus Deodara PT it is not suited to zone 13-- it can handle zones 12 and 14-- and that it gets 80 feet tall. Question 1) Can it live and thrive in Phoenix and, 2) since it is not suited for this climate, will it reach 80 feet tall if it is planted here? Thanks for your help. PJ From R2BESHON@aol.com Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:05:45 EST Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:05:45 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] time to trim please advise me when is the best time to trim back the following: silvery cassia brittlebush fairy duster baja ruellia i want to trim them b4 they start to bloom. thank you. i live in pv. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:45:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 11:45:53 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9 Julie: That helps a lot to know that you live here in the Valley. A Columbine that does well here is the Golden-spurred Columbine, which is native to the Southwest. It blooms Spring through Fall and is evergreen. It prefers damp, shady areas so it is a perfect plant for difficult shady spots found around buildings. Cut back old stems for rebloom. It also does well in large pots. According to Carol Schuler in her book, Low Water Use Plants, this Columbine is often found growing with Texas Betony (Stachys coccinea) in its native habitat. Regarding Lilac. I understand that people have had some success here in the low desert with Persian Lilac. According the Sunset Western Garden Book, this variety grows in a loose, graceful form to about 6 ft. Arching branches with 2-1/2 inch long leaves. Many clusters of fragrant pale violet flowers appear along branches in May (April in warmer areas). I would check with a local nursery and see if they carry this one. Sue Bass Master Gardener julie provo wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Sue Bass > To: > Cc: > Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 10:20 PM > Subject: Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9 > > > If your question has not already been answered for you, may I ask what > area you are > > referring to as Zone 9? I am more accustomed to Sunsets climate zones, > which are > > numbered differently from the USDA's. Knowing where you are will better > help me to > > answer the question. Thank you! > > Sue Bass > > Master Gardener > > > > jcp.provo@mindspring.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > hi! > > > would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can, > when should i. > > > also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9?? > > > thanx!! > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > Hi! > I live in Glendale arizona. My zip is 85301. I hope that helps. > Thanx! julie provo From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 6 Mar 2000 17:30:25 EST Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 17:30:25 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Turf fertilizer that is safe for dogs Most fertilizers if watered in well immediately after application should be ok for dogs. If you want an organic turf fertilizer, Hickmans sells one made from chicken manure. I'm sure that there must be others out there. Good luck. Rod From slmcclan@theremc.com Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:22:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 15:22:55 -0700 (MST) From: slmcclan@theremc.com slmcclan@theremc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I get starts or bulbs of you plants? Please give me information. Thanks From rachlynn17@hotmail.com Mon, 6 Mar 2000 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 16:20:36 -0700 (MST) From: rachlynn17@hotmail.com rachlynn17@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need to know if Plants help reduce second-hand smoke? From VLMPurdue78@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:07:36 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:07:36 EST From: VLMPurdue78@aol.com VLMPurdue78@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In a message dated 3/5/00 8:40:18 AM US Mountain Standard Time, tom.sharp@asu.edu writes: << arid_gardener I have a Palo Brea tree in my desert landscape that appears to be under attack by woodpeckers. The tree has been in our landscape for two years and is now about ten feet tall. The symptoms are holes in the bark that are oozing sap and forming large amber-like deposits on the trunk and limbs. There are also numerous patches (1 square inch) of bare wood where the bark has been removed. I have seen woodpeckers on the tree pecking away so I have attributed the damage to them. There is no sign of insects or other parasites that the birds may be feeding on. My questions are: Is the damage likely to be from the woodpeckers? If it is, what is the most effective way to protect the tree from further damage? Is this problem serious enough to threaten the life of the tree? Thanks for your suggestions. best regards Tom Sharp >> I do not know if anyone has yet responded to Mr. Sharp's question of 3/5, so I will offer some information. Palo brea or Cercidium praecox is generally a wonderful xeriscape tree. The fact that woodpeckers are pecking at the tree indicates that the birds might be searching for bugs more so than chiseling away at the bark for something to do. Pests/bugs would invade diseased trees more so than healthy trees leading you to think of an underlying condition. The oozing sap deposits throughout the limbs and trunk area could indicate a type of bacterial "wetwood" problem that begins with chronic bleeding of sap. This sap would eventually discolor and smell foul due to the bacteria causing the problem inside the sapwood and heartwood areas of the tree. Usually this type of infection is found in ash, elm, and mesquite trees. The other problem could also be a type of wood rot or decay caused by a fungus inside the woody tissue of the tree. This type of problem progresses slowly and would not usually manifest itself so quickly as you have described. A third consideration would be a palo verde beetle that throughout its life cycle (grub to beetle), lives in the ground and eats roots. The beetles eventually emerge and leave telltale holes in the ground around the tree. Once again, this is a secondary problem to the real underlying cause. Another pest, like a borer (again grub-beetle lifecycle) could be responsible for the damage. Further inspection of these holes in your tree would show signs of grubs (the birds are after) and tunnels beneath the bark. All of these symptoms and causes have no chemical control. Generally, it is physical removal of infected wood. The beetles and borers can be treated in certain circumstances, but further identification is necessary and beyond my realm. Please ask for further assistance and advice in treating your palo verde tree. Hopefully, I have helped you out with this information. Val Meyers ACNP with the ANA From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:14 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:14 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] time to trim Hello, The following information is taken from Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A. Johnson. 1. Silvery Cassia (Cassia phyllodinea) Prune when flowering is complete in late winter early spring while weather is cool. 2. Brittle Bush (Encelia farinosa) Prune after flowering ends in the late spring, trim tall flower stems down to leaves. If plant becomes too vigorous thin out at least 1/3 before heat arrives. 3. Ruellia species Prune prior to end of winter, cut off old growth to about 6 inches but it mentions Baja ruellia need minimal pruning unless it has frost damage. If you see damage just remove that which is damaged. 4. Fairy Duster (Calliandra californica) Baja Fairy Duster Prune in late spring fro rapid recovery. Avoid pruning in hot weather. Reduce by no more than 20 % at one time. Hope this helps. I have no idea where pv might be located but guess it doesn't matter for pruning times for these plants. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ R2BESHON@aol.com writes: To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener please advise me when is the best time to trim back the following: silvery cassia brittlebush fairy duster baja ruellia i want to trim them b4 they start to bloom. thank you. i live in pv. >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:19 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:19 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Tree Hello, It sounds like you have a so called cocktail tree that has oranges and lemons growing on the same tree. If this is true it appears the lemons, which grow more vigorously then oranges, is taking over. Sometimes when we prune a tree of this sort we accidentally prune out one of the fruits that have be grafted onto the tree. Pollination does not change an existing tree, that is change it from an orange to a lemon tree. If the pollen is capable of fertilizing the orange tree the change would appear in the off spring (that is in the new seed) not in the existing tree. If you still have some of the orange graft I'd try to encourage its growth and perhaps prune out some of the lemon graph but you really need to ask this of someone more knowledgeable. You might try someplace like Greenfield Citrus Farm. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/3/00 7:43:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, Aaaorvca@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/3/00 7:43:32 AM Pacific Standard Time From: Aaaorvca@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I have a orange tree that used to give me oranges, but over the years, they have been polinated by the bees from the lemon tree. Looks like they will eventually be all lemon. Now I'm getting more lemons than I want. What can I do to get my oranges back? IF ANYTHING! From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:17 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:17 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ocotillo planting time Hello, Best to plant this shrub (its not a cactus) in the fall when temperatures are cooler and the Ocotillo flat-headed larvae borers are not active. Remember this plants does not produce root hairs, so they take a long time to establish after bare-root planting. If any roots are broken or frayed at transplanting, make clean cuts to remove damaged portion. Dust roots with sulfur prior to planting to prevent root rot. Do not mulch or fertilize plants. Provide with well draining soil and avoid garden locations where plants receive excess moisture. If watering with drip irrigation place emitters at least 2 feet from base of plant. Information taken from a book called Pruning, Planting and Care by Eric A. Johnson. Most nurseries carry Ocotillo (Fouquieria splendens). I'd just shop around for the best specimen and price. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/5/00 7:39:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, eighttracker@hotmail.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/5/00 7:39:22 AM Pacific Standard Time From: eighttracker@hotmail.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Where is agood place close to Mesa to buy ocotillos? Best time to transplant? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:16 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:18:16 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Request for clarification Hello, Could you be more specific, I'm not sure what a "you" plant is? A nursery near you might be a start to look for bulbs or young plants. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AS In a message dated 3/6/00 3:00:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, slmcclan@theremc.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/6/00 3:00:10 PM Pacific Standard Time From: slmcclan@theremc.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener How can I get starts or bulbs of you plants? Please give me information. Thanks >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:19:16 EST Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 15:19:16 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Zone 9 Hi Sue, Zone 9 is from the U. S. Department of Agriculture Map. That is the designation for the valley. (20-30 degree average low temperature). There is an article written by a gentleman who tried to tie together all the different zone designated for the valley. If I get a chance I'll try to look over the archives to find it for you. It is a confusing issue. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/2/00 9:16:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, sjbass@uswest.net writes: << Subj: [AG] Re: Columbine and Lilac in Zone 9 Date: 3/2/00 9:16:31 PM Pacific Standard Time From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: jcp.provo@mindspring.com CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener If your question has not already been answered for you, may I ask what area you are referring to as Zone 9? I am more accustomed to Sunsets climate zones, which are numbered differently from the USDA's. Knowing where you are will better help me to answer the question. Thank you! Sue Bass Master Gardener jcp.provo@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > hi! > would like to know if i can plant colombines in zone 9 and if i can, when should i. > also, any way i can grow lilacs in zone 9?? > thanx!! > > _______________________________________________ >> From dlhead@apollogrp.edu Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:54:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:54:07 -0700 (MST) From: dlhead@apollogrp.edu dlhead@apollogrp.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a chineese bamboo tree that I had in a small pot in my office. Somehow it flurished and then The bottom to middle went tan from green and had shriveled. I don't know why, so I cut the healthy top portions, added more soil to the pot and transplanted them into the pot. I would like to know how often I should water it from my fish bowl (which I clean once a week, I was told dirty fish water is healthy for plant)? I'm not sure how long it would take to know if transplant took root and what are the signs to look for in successful transplanting. Thank you for your help. From ikey66@hotmail.com Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:43:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 14:43:50 -0700 (MST) From: ikey66@hotmail.com ikey66@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know how an asperagus fern grows. Is it from roots ,seed, spores,cuttings,I would like to have the fern all around the yard , as it seems to handel the heat here in pinal county, as well as the cold , in the winter. Thank you very much. A az native From dlhead@apollogrp.edu Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:54:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 12:54:42 -0700 (MST) From: dlhead@apollogrp.edu dlhead@apollogrp.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a chineese bamboo tree that I had in a small pot in my office. Somehow it flurished and then the bottom to middle went tan from green and had shriveled. I don't know why, so I cut the healthy top portions, added more soil to the pot and transplanted them into the pot. I would like to know how often I should water it from my fish bowl (which I clean once a week, I was told dirty fish water is healthy for plant)? I'm not sure how long it would take to know if transplant took root and what are the signs to look for in successful transplanting. Thank you for your help. From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 19:47:13 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 19:47:13 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Waterwise Gardening and Landscape Festival Hopefully one of our server managers responded to you, but if not, my understanding of the protocol is that any 'incoming' message from someone who is not a member of the server is cleared by one of them before being posted. We regularly feature local festivals, and I'd like to think yours would not be the exception. Linda Guy Master Gardener Paul & Barb Bourscheidt wrote: > arid_gardener > Is this the correct e-mail address to send a notice of our festival? It > is sponsored by the "High Country Xeriscape Council of Arizona" in > cooperation with the Town of Payson, and many local businesses and > agencies. Master gardeners are an integral part of the volunteer staff, > and several extension agents will be participating. > Thank you for your reply > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 19:59:53 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 19:59:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Mulberry Trees --------------47436984672316050AE5944E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have a publication dedicated to mulberry decline(MC31). I'm sorry to tell you that yours have probably reached their limit. The good news is that yours went perhaps double the expected lifetime, according to this publication. Mulberry decline shows sparse foliage, and what tender new growth arises, is exposed to sunburn, as is the bark. At this point they are also very susceptible to sooty canker, a fungal diseasse that looks like a black mold. It would be a secondary condition on a vigorous specimen, which you do not have. Recovery of trees in conditions such as you have described is rare. Sometimes you can find a copy of this publication in the reference section of your local public library. If not, instructions for ordering it are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Disease Refer back to the top of this page. It looks like it is time to have the trees removed and replaced. Do so soon, as trees prefer being established several months before the summer's blast. If you want another opinion, you can retain the services of an arborist. Check out that piece of our website at http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Linda Guy Master Gardener Mary Lippold wrote: > > > Hello - > > I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are getting quite old. I think they are > almost 30 - 35 years old. One of them is diseased and not producing > new growth this year. I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like > the other two trees are infected also. First they lose bark and look > moldy, the branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them. Is > there anything I can do at this point to try and save them or is it > too late? > > Thank you for your help - Mary Ellen > > --- > Mary Ellen Lippold > ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY > Department of Psychology > Tempe, AZ 85287-1104 > (480) 727-6126 - (480) 727-6176 Fax > RIPL Team > The bedrock of mathematics is the proof -- the logical argument that > something is or is not true. But often there are many ways to prove > the same thing, and mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the > most "beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & Sky" --------------47436984672316050AE5944E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have a publication dedicated to mulberry decline(MC31). I'm sorry to tell you that yours have probably reached their limit. The good news is that yours went perhaps double the  expected lifetime, according to this publication. Mulberry decline shows sparse foliage, and what tender new growth arises, is exposed to sunburn, as is the bark. At this point they are also very susceptible to sooty canker, a fungal diseasse that looks like a black mold. It would be a secondary condition on a vigorous specimen, which you do not have. Recovery of  trees in conditions such as you have described is rare.

Sometimes you can find a copy of this publication in the reference section of your local public library. If not, instructions for ordering it are at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Disease
Refer back to the top of this page.

It looks like it is time to have the trees removed and replaced. Do so soon, as trees prefer being established several months before the summer's blast. If you want another opinion, you can retain the services of an arborist. Check out that piece of our website at
http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Mary Lippold wrote:

 

Hello -

I have 3 Mulberry Trees which are getting quite old.  I think they are almost 30 - 35 years old.  One of them is diseased and not producing new growth this year.  I've had it trimmed back and now it looks like the other two trees are infected also.  First they lose bark and look moldy, the branches and leaves dry up, then the bugs get to them.  Is there anything I can do at this point to try and save them or is it too late?

Thank you for your help - Mary Ellen

---
Mary Ellen Lippold
ARIZONA STATE UNIVERSITY
Department of Psychology
Tempe, AZ  85287-1104
(480) 727-6126 - (480) 727-6176  Fax
RIPL  Team
The bedrock of mathematics is the proof -- the logical argument that something is or is not true. But often there are many ways to prove the same thing, and mathematicians tend to choose what they see as the most "beautiful" solution. . . Debra Byrd for "Earth & Sky"

--------------47436984672316050AE5944E-- From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:10:27 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:10:27 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Disease(s) Mr. Heselton, In the interest of time, I am simply sending you a copy of input I received from one of our extension agents who handles commercial citrus growers. "From the description, it sounds like it could be multiple problems. First, I would look at the possibility of Phytophthora root rot. This would cause the abnormal leaf loss. The soil can be tested for this. Unfortunately, the cure is very expensive, but it is doable. For an underlying reason, I would look at poor soil drainage. Ask the homeowner about the soil type, and if drainage is a problem. Waterlogged soils are prone to Phytophthora, and roots that do not receive adequate soil aeration often show nutrient deficiencies. Also, look for rotting and gum deposits on the trunk just below the soil level." "The pale leaf symptoms are likely to be iron deficiency, which would be exacerbated by the waterlogged soils. It may also be that the grey water has not helped. Sometimes grey water can have chlorides, which may lead to the leaf tip browning noted. This also would be exacerbated by the waterlogged soil. " We have a diagnostic group that meets weekly at the Maricopa County Extension Office, 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. If convenient for you, you could drop off samples of the tree to be examined. For information on soil testing, see our site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Good luck to you. Linda Guy Master Gardener GARY HESELTON wrote: > No I hadn't. I was thinking of using some Ironite to see if that helps. > The new leaves come out green but soon become very pale almost white? Any > ideas? > Thanks, > Irene Heselton > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda A. Guy > To: > Sent: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 7:34 AM > Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > Did you ever receive a reply from us? > > > > L. Guy > > > > heseig@msn.com wrote: > > > > > arid_gardener > > > Help!! This is the 2nd year our cirus trees > > > lemon,orange& grapefruit have had their leaves turn yellow right from > early stage ( almost speckled looking) then thetips turn brown and then fall > off. fruit is sparse but still on the limbs. Ar first we thought it was > because of not enough water but we changed to more and that didn't help. We > thought maybe because we didn't fertilize but that didn't help. The people > we lived here before had their gray water from the washing machine going to > the trees do you think that helped or hurt the trees? We get new leaves and > blossoms but when fall/winter comes the trees are barren of leaves. 1 young > tree has not been affected!! Any suggestions? Thanks > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > Archives - > > > > From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:29:21 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:29:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Purchasing Ocotillos Why don't you plan on attending the Desert Botanical Garden's Spring sale, details at http://www.dbg.org/3/plantsale.html Not only will you find your plant, but sound advice; it's quite an event! Linda Guy Master Gardener eighttracker@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Where is agood place close to Mesa to buy ocotillos? Best time to transplant? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From algee@netzero.net Tue, 7 Mar 2000 19:56:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 19:56:42 -0700 (MST) From: algee@netzero.net algee@netzero.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is there a chemical i can spray at the base and close to oleanders to kill bermuda grass without harming the shrub? From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:45:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:45:22 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Growing Basil Not fussy about enriched soil, but must have good drainage. Doesn't need as much water as other summer vegetables/herbs once established. Full sun. Pinch flower buds to retain better taste/larger leaves on stalk. Does best if planted earlier in spring to really get roots established before the summer's heat comes. It sounds to me that you may have overwatered and underestimated its need for heat/sun. Good luck Linda Guy Master Gardener fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have problems growing basil. They always wilt and die on me. I need to know soil, location (east, west,etc)food, temp., sun or no. > > I was told it can grow all summer long outdoors. Correct? > > Thank you very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:47:53 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:47:53 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rose Care You can follow our monthly Timely Tips, which has a section on roses, to optimize your care practices. Fertilization should have started mid-February with a granular type fertilizer. Most nurseries can help with this. Linda Guy Master Gardener barn@primenet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > When is it time to fertilize roses and what kind of fertilizer should I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:48:40 -0700 Date: Tue, 07 Mar 2000 20:48:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rose Care I meant to add a hyperlink to the relevant section on our website. It is http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/feb.htm You can follow our monthly Timely Tips, which has a section on roses, to optimize your care practices. Fertilization should have started mid-February with a granular type fertilizer. Most nurseries can help with this. Linda Guy Master Gardener barn@primenet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > When is it time to fertilize roses and what kind of fertilizer should I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 8 Mar 2000 09:55:44 EST Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 09:55:44 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citris Espalier Hi, I dropped an e-mail to Greenwood Citrus Nursery with your question. In their reply they stated that Lemon and Lime varieties work well growing as an espalier. "Their growth patterns' branching allows you to maintain the foliage along the trellis. You can grow a "wall" of citrus decorating a side of your house, and or provide protection for an area, and enjoy the fruit and blossoms of the lemon simultaneously." You might like to visit their website. The address I used was WWW.GreenfieldCitrus.com/index.htm JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ n a message dated 3/3/00 8:24:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, taviab@env.ind.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/3/00 8:24:55 AM Pacific Standard Time From: taviab@env.ind.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Can you espalier citrus trees? Good fruit production is not a concern, just survivability while being trained in this way. If so, which types of citrus look or do better? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 8 Mar 2000 10:02:46 EST Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 10:02:46 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Espalier Hi, I dropped an e-mail to Greenwood Citrus Nursery with your question. In their reply they stated that Lemon and Lime varieties work well growing as an espalier. "Their growth patterns' branching allows you to maintain the foliage along the trellis. You can grow a "wall" of citrus decorating a side of your house, and or provide protection for an area, and enjoy the fruit and blossoms of the lemon simultaneously." You might like to visit their website. The address I used was WWW.GreenfieldCitrus.com/index.htm JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/3/00 8:24:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, taviab@env.ind.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/3/00 8:24:55 AM Pacific Standard Time From: taviab@env.ind.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Can you espalier citrus trees? Good fruit production is not a concern, just survivability while being trained in this way. If so, which types of citrus look or do better? >> From MCCABE_SERVICES@YAHOO.COM Wed, 8 Mar 2000 14:35:10 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 14:35:10 -0700 (MST) From: MCCABE_SERVICES@YAHOO.COM MCCABE_SERVICES@YAHOO.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I NEED TO KNOW THE ANNUAL TIMES TO FERTILIZE CITRUS TREES IN THE PHX AREA. ALSO WHAT KIND OF FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE FOR MIXED TYPE GRASSES AND HOW OFTEN PER YEAR. THESE THINGS ARE TO HELP ME TO BETTER SERVE MY FLOOD IRRIGATION CUSTOMERS. ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE HELPFUL. THANK YOU. SCOTT MCCABE. From dolsontree@hotmail.com Wed, 8 Mar 2000 22:01:51 -0700 Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 22:01:51 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] killing bermuda grass in oleander there is a product called fusilade,or any product with a chemical called fusilflop in it . home depot,ace hardware or similar places would have something for you. :-) TTFN ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 7:56 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > is there a chemical i can spray at the base and close to oleanders to kill bermuda grass without harming the shrub? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From carolspirit@hotmail.com Wed, 08 Mar 2000 23:07:11 -0700 Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 23:07:11 -0700 From: carol caliguiri carolspirit@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] My upcoming move to Arizona I am just learning to get around on the internet and was so happy to see your Email! My husband and I are retired and want to move to Arizona... the only problem is where? The Phoenix area is out because of the heat in summer... also I'm an avid gardener and work an acre of land by myself. I love it so much and I have had nightmares of not being able to garden the way I would like to. We seem to be favoring Prescott so far... with it's mild temperatures... but what of the soil? I want to have a vegetable garden and have my wonderful bulbs, etc. Is there another area you could recommend before hubby finds a house he MUST have!!! I was in Arizona last year in October and that did it. I visited Phoenix, Sedona and towns in between. I never saw the town around Camp Verde and was wondering just what I'd find there.Flagstaff is also out with it's winters!! You know we are serious when a mother can leave her grown children and grandchildren and go on a spiritual quest that even myself ... I am so amazed that I would do such a thing. Your state has me hooked!!! Any help you can send my way would be appreciated. Also... what about water? Is water expensive for consumers? There are a million questions I should have asked when I was there.... but who was to know where my trip would lead! Sincerely, Mrs. Carol Caliguiri P.S. We intend to move in about 1 year's time. We are both piano teachers and my husband is a master piano tuner and technician which he keeps working at.He's also a tuner's and technician's inventor and is really going full speed on many tools that he's come up with..... that is another reason we seem to be zeroing in on Prescott. Thanks for any help you can give us. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com From jamgraham@sprintmail.com Thu, 9 Mar 2000 00:59:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 00:59:21 -0700 (MST) From: jamgraham@sprintmail.com jamgraham@sprintmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you please let me know the best way to replant a "star cactus". Thank you From kwarner@ci.scottsdale.az.us Thu, 9 Mar 2000 06:38:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 06:38:42 -0700 (MST) From: kwarner@ci.scottsdale.az.us kwarner@ci.scottsdale.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the dates of this years Low Desert Conference? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:38:49 EST Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:38:49 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] holes in oranges Hi, You have probably already found the answer to your question about holes in your oranges but just in case not. I will pass on what I learned from a recent class at the Greenfield Citrus Nursery. We were shown similar holes in oranges that also were infested with insects. We were told that the holes were first made by birds and then the insects found this access to the nice fleshy fruit and took up residence. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:38:51 EST Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 11:38:51 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Summer watering of young citrus Hello, During the first year you should irrigate every 7 days in the summer. The amount of water should be such that the moisture reaches below the root system. There could be a problem with salt build up in the root zone if you do not water deeply. I usually think of three feet when I water a tree but your young tree probably doesn't have roots that far down yet. I use a piece of r-bar to probe down into the soil as an indicator of soil moisture. Maintaining a mulch in the tree basin during the first couple of summers will help retain soil moisture. It is recommended that the mulch be removed in early Nov to allow full soil exposure to winter sun. I watch over several homes that have drip systems cause they frequently fail. If you have a neighbor that lives here year round it might be wise to ask if they would check that your system is working correctly. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/1/00 3:58:27 PM Pacific Standard Time, mbandrowsk@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/1/00 3:58:27 PM Pacific Standard Time From: mbandrowsk@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We have a 15 gal. citrus tree that we planted in October and will be leaving the area in April. We have an automatic drip systen and would like to know the amount of water and how often we should be watering it during the summer months while we are away? >> From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:29:21 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:29:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Low Desert Conference 2000 This year the Low Desert Conference is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardener Conference, October 14-16. It will take place at the Mesa Conference and Convention Center. For more information and contact phone numbers, please see our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm kwarner@ci.scottsdale.az.us wrote: > arid_gardener > What are the dates of this years Low Desert Conference? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:40:43 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:40:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Fertilizing Citrus and Turf Citrus should be fertilized three time each year. In February or March, April or May and July or August. You can find information on fertilizing turf in our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html#index Sue Bass Master Gardener MCCABE_SERVICES@YAHOO.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > I NEED TO KNOW THE ANNUAL TIMES TO FERTILIZE > CITRUS TREES IN THE PHX AREA. > ALSO WHAT KIND OF FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE > FOR MIXED TYPE GRASSES AND > HOW OFTEN PER YEAR. > THESE THINGS ARE TO HELP ME TO BETTER SERVE > MY FLOOD IRRIGATION CUSTOMERS. > ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE HELPFUL. > THANK YOU. > SCOTT MCCABE. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:58:19 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 11:58:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Transplanting Cactus Our publication number 8309 - Cactus, Agave, Yucca & Ocotillo has very good information on transplanting. Please see the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm for information on ordering a copy of this publication. Or you can stop in at the Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix. (602) 470-8060, to pick up a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener jamgraham@sprintmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Could you please let me know the best way to replant a "star cactus". > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 13:40:43 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 13:40:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Plants and second-hand smoke In doing some research on your question I came upon some fascinating information. The pollutant that is produced by tobacco smoke is Benzene. Some of the plant solutions for removing this pollutant from your home are: English Ivy, Chrysanthemum, Gerbera Daisy and Peace Lily. I located this information at a web site produced by the Plants for Clean Air Council. The chart I found can be found at: http://www.plants4cleanair.org/. I also found reference to a book by Dr. B.C. Wolverton. The book is entitled, "How to Grow Fresh Air: 50 Houseplants that Purify Your Home or Office" The web site contains a biography on Dr. Wolverton and the study he did for NASA on plants and air pollutants. Thank you for asking this question. It gave me the opportunity to learn something about this topic! Sue Bass Master Gardener rachlynn17@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I need to know if Plants help reduce second-hand smoke? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:11:21 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:11:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Asparagus Fern Sprenger Asparagus fern can be propagated by dividing the thick, fleshy roots of old plants. According to some information I found at a site by Time Life, it mentions when dividing old clumps to cut the stems to soil level and discard them to make room for the fresh ones that will rise from the roots. You can see the information at: http://www.vg.com/Foliage/Html/E06010X.html Sue Bass Master Gardener ikey66@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know how an asperagus fern grows. Is it from roots ,seed, spores,cuttings,I would like to have the fern all around the yard , as it seems to handel the heat here in pinal county, as well as the cold , in the winter. Thank you very much. A az native > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:13:37 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:13:37 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Asparagus Fern In answering your question, I had assumed that you had existing plants that you wanted to propagate. If this was not the case, you can purchase these plants at most nurseries and many home centers in their garden center. Sue Bass Master Gardener ikey66@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know how an asperagus fern grows. Is it from roots ,seed, spores,cuttings,I would like to have the fern all around the yard , as it seems to handel the heat here in pinal county, as well as the cold , in the winter. Thank you very much. A az native > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:31:16 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:31:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page May I recommend an excellent book with information on this subject? It is Desert Gardening Fruits and Vegetables, The Complete Guide by George Brookbank. I fear people get tired of me recommending this book but I have to tell you that it has been invaluable to me. He includes a section on Squash Pollination and why sometimes no fruit develops. This book is at bookstores, the Desert Botanical Garden's gift shop and you may be able to locate it at the library. It mentions hand pollination when the insects just aren't quite doing it as well as the fact that you need to have both male and female flowers. A good description of each is included. If you find the book, look on page 107 - Squash pollination. Excellent book! Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener chrisb8719@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > How can I attract bees to pollinate my canteloupe and zucchini plants. I have luscious group but very little fruit. Is there an artificial way to pollinate if the bees aren't around? > > Thanks, > Clarice Black > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:33:01 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:33:01 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Squash and Cantelope Pollination This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------FA5230E2961FFBEE364BFF4E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am forwarding this to the listserve again simply because I neglected to change the Subject line previously. Sorry! --------------FA5230E2961FFBEE364BFF4E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <38C81824.AC247734@uswest.net> Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 14:31:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: chrisb8719@home.net CC: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200003051727.KAA00135@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit May I recommend an excellent book with information on this subject? It is Desert Gardening Fruits and Vegetables, The Complete Guide by George Brookbank. I fear people get tired of me recommending this book but I have to tell you that it has been invaluable to me. He includes a section on Squash Pollination and why sometimes no fruit develops. This book is at bookstores, the Desert Botanical Garden's gift shop and you may be able to locate it at the library. It mentions hand pollination when the insects just aren't quite doing it as well as the fact that you need to have both male and female flowers. A good description of each is included. If you find the book, look on page 107 - Squash pollination. Excellent book! Good luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener chrisb8719@home.net wrote: > arid_gardener > How can I attract bees to pollinate my canteloupe and zucchini plants. I have luscious group but very little fruit. Is there an artificial way to pollinate if the bees aren't around? > > Thanks, > Clarice Black > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - --------------FA5230E2961FFBEE364BFF4E-- From shill@do.dvusd.k12.az.us Thu, 9 Mar 2000 14:37:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 14:37:44 -0700 (MST) From: shill@do.dvusd.k12.az.us shill@do.dvusd.k12.az.us Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Since the "big rain", I noticed two small spots of what appears to be a split on a ridge of my 18' cactus. Could this be caused by swelling due to water intake? And what treatment, if any, should I give it. The spots look to be drying out now. It's a nice healthy looking cactus, and I want to keep it that way. By the way, it was transplanted into my yard in December. From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 09 Mar 2000 16:23:39 -0700 Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 16:23:39 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [Fwd: [AG] Locating Publications in Library] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------DF24D895ADC239CACC232CA9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cathy, Did you reply to this? I don't remember seeing an answer. Thanks. Linda Cathy, If the attached represents what is actually in the libraries, should we stop referring the folks asking questions to the Public Library System? Does anyone know what libraries or library systems still have the volume(s) of Home Horticulture Pubs? I thought these were maintained by MG volunteers around the valley. Linda Guy --------------DF24D895ADC239CACC232CA9 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailR3.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailR3.TMP" Received: from smtp02.primenet.com (smtp02.primenet.com [206.165.6.132]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id KAA17045 for ; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:13:21 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp02.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id KAA29426 for ; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:12:55 -0700 (MST) Received: from post1.inre.asu.edu(129.219.13.100) via SMTP by smtp02.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA5xa4w5; Wed Mar 1 10:12:42 2000 Received: from aztec2.asu.edu (aztec2.asu.edu [198.60.132.11]) by asu.edu (PMDF V5.2-31 #33824) with ESMTP id <0FQR006R46G5M1@asu.edu> for laguy2@primenet.com; Wed, 1 Mar 2000 10:12:05 -0700 (MST) Received: (from uncas@localhost) by aztec2.asu.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) id KAA17725; Wed, 01 Mar 2000 10:12:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2000 10:12:04 -0700 (MST) From: uncas@aztec.asu.edu (MARJORIE D. SYKES) Subject: Re: [AG] Locating Publications in Library To: laguy2@primenet.com Reply-to: uncas@aztec.asu.edu Message-id: <200003011712.KAA17725@aztec2.asu.edu> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda - No tisn't so. I did a survey for Carolyn Chard and located the volume in a number of libraries. I think that one librarian knew where it was. None of the others had any idea of its presence. The number is 635 general reference and its called Horticulture Publications. The Harmon Branch of Phx Public had thrown it away because it was in English. Mesquite had no idea if they ever had it because they were building and some of the collection was stored. I had to contact a librarian who was there before the building began and she remembered using it. --------------DF24D895ADC239CACC232CA9-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:57:15 EST Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:57:15 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Plum Trees Dying? Amy, Thanks for the additional info, you have told me what I need to know. First of all, the stone fruit trees have a relatively short life here in the low desert, 15 years would be considered long. From your description if the tree does not leaf out within the next month it is probably dead. Contributing to its demise is your watering practice of merely wetting the surface of the ground every day. All trees should be deep watered to a depth in excess of three feet once a month in the winter and every one to two weeks in the summer depending on the soil conditions and the variety of tree. Since our water has a high salt content it is very important to deep water to flush the salt out of the root zone and to encourage the roots to go deep away from the high soil surface temperatures in summer. Construction on the outside of your fence could have cut some roots, and if the tree was already stressed could be a minor factor. If the turf is nearby and over the root zone of the tree never apply a weed and feed fertilizer, because the herbicide part of the fertilizer will kill trees as well as weeds. Not irrigating the trees properly while the house was vacant could be another contributing factor. This recent rain has done as much as anything to help your trees. If the start to leaf out then apply a general purpose fertilizer and get the trees established on a deep water schedule. Good luck. Rod From rcdemark@aol.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:11:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 09:11:32 -0700 (MST) From: rcdemark@aol.com rcdemark@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are Almond trees ok for the Phoenix area? We live in the footholls area in Ahwatukee. From R2BESHON@aol.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 13:20:17 EST Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 13:20:17 EST From: R2BESHON@aol.com R2BESHON@aol.com Subject: [AG] GARDEN RAT have you heard of a rat digging up bulbs and eating them or could this be a rabbit? is there anything i can sprinkle in my garden to discourage the rat from living there? i have 2 small dogs. it can't be anything that will hurt them. thanks. From faclark@worldnet.att.net Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:53:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 10:53:31 -0700 (MST) From: faclark@worldnet.att.net faclark@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Phoenix and have cannas planted in full sun along the south and west fence lines in my back yard. These are the standard orange and yellow cannas with green folliage. They look fine except for the past two or three years these plants have not bloomed at all. I would be grateful for information on how to resolve this problem. From Gregcm2@aol.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 16:16:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 16:16:58 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What can I put on my tomato garden to kill crab grass? From savar@tampabay.rr.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 18:14:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 18:14:53 -0700 (MST) From: savar@tampabay.rr.com savar@tampabay.rr.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Tampa Florida. I have three bottlebrush bushes that are not flowering. The neighbors' trees are in bloom. I water 30 minutes 3x week. A professional lawn care company fertilizes the lawn and plants every 6 weeks. Why are the flowers not blooming? From ecfergi@excite.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 18:53:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 18:53:15 -0700 (MST) From: ecfergi@excite.com ecfergi@excite.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband recently traveled to Texas and brought back some mesquite "beans". (Kind of a creamy off shite color, 3-5 inches long) I would like to plant the seeds and start a tree. What is the best way? Open the "bean" pod and just plant the seed or plant the whole bean itself. We live in the very N.W. corner of Florida. Thanks for any info..... From windwalker13@home.com Fri, 10 Mar 2000 19:13:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 19:13:58 -0700 (MST) From: windwalker13@home.com windwalker13@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am considering planting some groundcover roses. I am wondering about the differences between 1)Jackson & Perkins' Magic Carpet/Garden Blanket/Baby Blanket; 2)the Flower Carpet ground cover variety (Anthony Tesselaar Selections)? I have poor soil (alot of caliche), but I do have a drip system. Currently a Cecil Bruener and a Fairy are doing ok (some flowering - this is their 1st year. Location: northwestern exposure under an AZ Ash tree. In summer heavy morning sun, and some evening sun. Would you please make some recommendations? Thank you very much. Karen From rtwodtli@hotmail.com Sat, 11 Mar 2000 08:00:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 08:00:31 -0700 (MST) From: rtwodtli@hotmail.com rtwodtli@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you provide me with some general information concerning a plant called Godecia? I hope I am spelling this correctly. I live in the Pacific Northwest and would like to be able to plant one in the yard this Spring. Any information would be helpful to me!! Thank you for your time and any information you may be able to pass on to me. Sincerely Roxanne From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat, 11 Mar 2000 10:50:45 EST Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 10:50:45 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Godetia amoena Hi Roxanne, You might be talking about a plant in Sunset's Western Garden book which is called Clarkia amoena or Godetia amoena. The information for this plant is on page 233. In general talk of the plant the book states: Especially numerous in CA. Grow cool season bloom in spring and early summer. Says all zones, full sun. Keep soil moist from seeding to flowering. Cut branches keep for several days; cut when top bud opens (others open successively) Sow seed in place in fall (mild-winter areas) or spring. Seedlings difficult to transplant. Best in sandy soil without added fertilizer. Two wild forms: coarse stemmed and sprawling, 4-5 in. high; slender stemmed, 1.5-2.5 ft high. Tapered leaves about . 5 to 2.0 inches long. On both forms, upright buds open into cup-shaped, slightly flaring, pink or lavender flowers, 2 inches across, usually blotched or penciled in crimson. Dwarf Gem grows 10 in. tall; Tall upright reaches 2-3 ft. I'm from Tacoma. It sounds like you want to grow them in the PNW. If you plan to grow them here remember full sun doesn't mean full desert sun, it usually reefers to a CA sun. Both Pierce County and King County have good Extension offices that might be able to give you more assistance. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/11/00 7:11:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, rtwodtli@hotmail.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/11/00 7:11:44 AM Pacific Standard Time From: rtwodtli@hotmail.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Can you provide me with some general information concerning a plant called Godecia? I hope I am spelling this correctly. I live in the Pacific Northwest and would like to be able to plant one in the yard this Spring.