From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:56:37 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:56:37 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sineapine appears to be a word according to my ancient (1953) Webster's Unabridged. It is an alkaloid, C16H25NO8 found in seeds of black mustard and other brassicas. A web search also turns up lots of info about it in Canola seed and oil. But I couldn't find either (Sinepine or Sinapine) or similar words in the plant and botany databases. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am trying to find a word that I once heard that refers to somesort of a tree seedling. My best recollection of the spelling is: Sinepine or Sinapine. Can you tell me anything about this or if there is such a word.Thanks so much! > > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:57:51 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:57:51 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] "Sinepine or Sinapine" Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sineapine appears to be a word according to my ancient (1953) Webster's Unabridged. It is an alkaloid, C16H25NO8 found in seeds of black mustard and other brassicas. A web search also turns up lots of info about it in Canola seed and oil. But I couldn't find either (Sinepine or Sinapine) or similar words in the plant and botany databases. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am trying to find a word that I once heard that refers to somesort of a tree seedling. My best recollection of the spelling is: Sinepine or Sinapine. Can you tell me anything about this or if there is such a word.Thanks so much! > > From jrmcd64@cs.com Sun, 30 Apr 2000 10:39:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 10:39:27 -0700 (MST) From: jrmcd64@cs.com jrmcd64@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page the other day i threw some lilly miller slug and snail bait into my vegtable garden. i see some landed on the leaf lettuce. i am wondering if the lettuce would be safe to eat after washing it off. thank you From GEMolumby@aol.com Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:46:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:46:30 -0700 (MST) From: GEMolumby@aol.com GEMolumby@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Sun City and have a real problem killing out Nut Grass (Hope that's the name) in my flower and planting areas. I have tried "Roundup" with little results, Do you have any advise? From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:00:19 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:00:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Nut Grass A fellow Master Gardener has had success with a product called "Manage" but he does state that it will take more than one application of this product to kill the nut grass. Sue Bass Master Gardener GEMolumby@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Sun City and have a real problem killing out Nut Grass (Hope that's the name) in my flower and planting areas. I have tried "Roundup" with little results, Do you have any advise? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Mon, 1 May 2000 08:08:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 08:08:29 -0700 (MST) From: Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a madagascar palm that I have had for several years. I live in Pennsylvania so I keep it outside in full sun during the late spring early fall. In winter it is in a window that receives lots of sun. This spring I have noticed (while still in the house) the new leaves coming out on top are turning black and dieing off?? I don't think that the plant is too big for the pot, I don't water it too much. I don't know what this can be. I don't see any signs of inscets around the crown where this is happening or any where else on the plant? I am really concerned as this is one of our favorite plants and one that we have had for quite some time. Help!!!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated. From LauraSimms@go.com Mon, 01 May 2000 12:04:38 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 12:04:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help the first time it closed up. I just watered it again early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up again later that day. There are no visible markings or discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by something else? ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From DTopham1@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 16:58:29 EDT Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 16:58:29 EDT From: DTopham1@aol.com DTopham1@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peppers and Tomatoes I have several tomatoe and bellpepper plants. My tomatoes are doing great except one which all of a sudden the bottom 1-2 inches of leaves have turned a bright yellow and of course are dying. The rest of the plant looks like the others and I don't see any eating of the leaves. Any suggestions on this. The other question is for my peppers. They do have something nibbling on them but I haven't been able to catch the culprit. The are next to my tomatoes (but 2 rows from my yellowing tomatoe) and I don't see anything eating them. What might be eating these plants and what would be the most natural way to rid the pest. Thanks, Marcy From EJSchmel@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 14:27:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 14:27:44 -0700 (MST) From: EJSchmel@aol.com EJSchmel@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the Tempe area and this past fall planted tulips, daffodils, crocus in a large pot. On top I planted pansies. As spring approached, the bulbs came up, bloomed and have since died back. Now my question is, when if ever do I dig up the bulbs? I would like to plant something else in the pot for summer, but am afraid that I will injur the bulbs planting something else. The bulbs really didn't do too well in the pot and I would like to maybe plant them in the ground. Shall I wait to dig them up, or do I dig them up and put them in a dry cool location? Please advise - Edie From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 01 May 2000 17:08:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 17:08:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: African Sumac Frank: How often are you watering? Is the tree on a drip system? For what duration of time are you watering? A good watering guide is to water the tree to a depth of three feet (you can check the depth with a rod) every two weeks. Yellowing leaves can be caused by many things, including alkaline soils, excessive watering, inadequate watering, iron deficiency, leaf scorch, nitrogen deficiency, salt damage, etc. You asked for more information on this tree and I found some information in Ronald Dinchak's book, An Illustrated Guide To Landscape Trees of Southern Arizona. The African Sumac is a member of the Cashew family. It is most often trained to a graceful, broad-crowned, evergreen tree reaching a height of 25 feet (7.6 meters). It is sometimes clipped to form a hedge. It is a dioecious plant with each individual plant possessing either the "male" or "female" flowers. Flowers are produced throughout the winter, generally from January through February. The ovulate flowers are tiny, creamy white to yellow, and occur in clusters. Developing fruits occur in the clusters of 40 to 50 individuals. Maturation of fruit occurs in April and May. Each fruit is round and 1/6 inch in diameter. Each contains a single seed. As a landscape plant, the African Sumac has become extremely popular in Arizona. The interesting branching pattern and effective dark red bark make the African sumac an excellent specimen plant. The evergreen foliage makes it useful as a screen. It can be clipped and planted into a hedge. Growth rates are slow if the plant receives only minimal water. However, with adequate water and fertilizer, growth rates can be speeded up. Under these conditions, small trees can grow up reasonably quickly. As for maintenance requirements, the book states that the African sumac tolerates summer heat, and mature specimens can be drought resistant. They will also thrive in lawns receiving irrigation. The plant is hardy to temperature of 12 to 15 degrees F. The tree can be planted in almost nay soil type, but it must be given adequate drainage since it is moderately susceptible to Texas root rot. Sumac responds well to pruning, which can be done any time of year. Since the tree is moderately susceptible to iron chlorosis, give the plant an iron source at least twice a year. This may be more than you ever wanted to know about the African Sumac. :>) If you would like more information on Texas root rot, we have an excellent publication available. Publication 8734. Also, you may want to take a look at our on-line article AZ 1034 Verticillium Wilt. The symptoms of this can be yellowing leaves, with leaf drop too. Sue Bass Master Gardener Dorcil@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a 5 year old African Sumac tree. It has lost its dark green look to the leaves and quite a few turned yellow and dropped off. I notice the suckers are nice and green and there is some new grouth sarting among the dry looking leaves but it looks kind of barren. I have a 5 foot square berm aroung itand have deep waterd, given it iron and a multi purpose fert, any suggestions > Thanks Frank Brown. Also could you send me any infor on this tree as to its care. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rjezeski@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 18:49:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:49:31 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help thank you From dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Mon, 1 May 2000 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) From: dlstanley@lawtonnet.net dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I Live in southern Oklahoma (zone 7) and I just planted 2 pomegrante trees , the nursery I orderded them from said they would do fine in this climat. Im not sure they will from what I have found I need to be in zone 8. Can I do anything to help the trees grow successfully? From wasclyde@uswest.net Tue, 2 May 2000 07:19:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: wasclyde@uswest.net wasclyde@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re:Watering for TIF - last summer I think we overwatered based on the schedule the prior owners had set on the sprinkler timers: everyday for about 20 minutes. I have the sprinklers now set for every third day for about 12 minutes. Is there a recommended frequency for watering that helps the turf grow strong deep roots, keeps it green but does not create excessive top growth? Second question. What is a recommended feeding schedule for TIF? Thank You. From rjezeski@aol.com Tue, 2 May 2000 07:39:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have three large honeysuckles planted at the end of our driveway. two are doing just great but the third one is dying very fast. i believe dogs are using it as a place to urinate on. any suggestion. the plants are about 30 inches tall,fun sun during the day thanks From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 02 May 2000 09:24:45 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 09:24:45 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? Dear Laura, There are a couple of possibilities for why your agave has closed up. The most likely is that the plant is experiencing severe drought stress from the transplant. While every two weeks is a good schedule for an established plant, it might not be quite enough for a transplanted one. This would be particularly true as the weather warms up. I would water it weekly and be sure to water slowly and well all around the plant so that you wet a large zone for the roots to grow. The other possibilities are not so nice. Plants that have been infected by the agave snout weevil, to which I am sorry to say the Agave americana is very susceptible, have these symptoms: the outer leaves begin to fall away from the central leaves leaving it exposed like a spike, the central leaves fail to unfold and open remaining 'in bud' until they finally fall over, and the entire plant begins to lose leaves and die without flowering. There is nothing to be done once the infestation of the weevil is that far along. Sorry. The other not so nice, or otherwise depending on your perspective, is that your plant is preparing to bloom. When bloom begins, and before you see the spike, the central leaves tighten around the emerging flowering stalk. If this is the case, you will see the flowering stalk very shortly and voila, you get to see the extraordinary bloom of this agave. Best of luck, Mary Irish Laura Simms wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my > front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it > is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it > established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip > irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the > weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the > leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. > I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help > the first time it closed up. I just watered it again > early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up > again later that day. There are no visible markings or > discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets > about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby > plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I > overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by > something else? > > ___________________________________________________ > GO Network Mail > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dm@nip.com Tue, 2 May 2000 11:32:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 11:32:33 -0700 (MST) From: dm@nip.com dm@nip.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My euonymus got yellow leaves and then they all fell off. Now the leaves are growing in green. What's going on? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 2 May 2000 20:16:01 EDT Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 20:16:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering turf On the weather page of both the Tribune and the Republic is a spot titled Lawn where each day is given the amount of water that should be applied if the the turf has not been watered for three days. Todays amount is 0.66 inches. You can measure the amount you are applying by setting out several tuna fish cans or similiar and running your sprinklers for 15 minutes. Measure the amount in each can and average them out. This will tell you wheather you are over or underwatering. Check out these websites on turf care. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html UofA recommends fertilizing hybrid bermuda during the months of May, June, July and August with monthly applications of one pound of actual nitrogen. This means that if your fertilizer has an analysis of 21-0-0 then you would apply 5 pounds of fertilizer each time. If it were only a 10-10-10 then you would apply 10 pounds of fertilizer each time. Good luck. Rod From rblack@fix.net Tue, 2 May 2000 17:45:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 17:45:52 -0700 (MST) From: rblack@fix.net rblack@fix.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does music have any effect on how/how well plants grow? Do you have any study material on this? I am doing a science project. From CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Wed, 3 May 2000 00:57:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 00:57:04 -0700 (MST) From: CREATIVONE@AOL.COM CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. Thank You, Tori From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 03 May 2000 07:49:17 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 07:49:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dwarf kumquat You might want to contact Dick Gross with the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. Dick Gross, 4110 W. Hatcher Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85051-3247 (602) 939-4570 He may be able to point you in the right direction. Sue Bass Master Gardener CREATIVONE@AOL.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. > Thank You, > Tori > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cactusaznative@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 07:53:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 07:53:08 -0700 (MST) From: cactusaznative@aol.com cactusaznative@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Heritage Live Oak that I would like to have trimmed from the bottom to make a higher crown but I'm not sure when this should be done. Also what is the best nourishment for it. It seems to be thriving. From La33ey@email.msn.com Wed, 03 May 2000 10:58:27 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 10:58:27 -0700 From: La33ey La33ey@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi, We're contemplating planting at least three Chilean Mesquites in our backyard. Does your organization recommend/support the planting of the Chilean Mesquite in the Phoenix area? Will such a tree attract birds? Does the Chilean Mesquite require special fertilizer, watering, etc? Our second choice is the Allepo Pine. Any comments? Susan in Phoenix La33ey@email.msn.com From billied@goodnet.com Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) From: billied@goodnet.com billied@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. Thank you. Jackie Daman From taman@mdch.com Wed, 3 May 2000 11:38:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: taman@mdch.com taman@mdch.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am unable to find the name of a cactus I received as a gift. I know it is of the opuntia family and is called a Christmas Tree Cactus. Not a Christmas Cactus. This one never flowers and grows only to about a height of one foot. It has many 'arms' and the spines resemble hair. Please help if you can. From tmaki@amfam.com Wed, 3 May 2000 12:49:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 12:49:19 -0700 (MST) From: tmaki@amfam.com tmaki@amfam.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:37:05 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:37:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Dwarf Kumquat Have you tried Greenfield Nursery in Mesa, they specialize in citrus and grow their stock locally. Their website is www.greenfieldcitrus.com 2558 E. Lehi Rd. Mesa 602 830 8000 Good luck. Rod From reeva5@speedchoice.com Wed, 3 May 2000 16:05:13 -0600 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 16:05:13 -0600 From: Randee reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is it true that the roots of a tree only go out to the length of the = branches? ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is it true that the roots of = a tree=20 only go out to the length of the = branches?
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 20:06:30 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 20:06:30 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Tree roots Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. Rod From fscapellit@mindspring.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged plans? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 3 May 2000 18:35:25 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 18:35:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree roots ----- Original Message ----- From: > Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I > have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. > Rod > I also have roots from a honey locust tree growing clear across the lawn - about 40 feet. -Olin From jwplus@goodnet.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:35:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:35:43 -0700 (MST) From: jwplus@goodnet.com jwplus@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Chinese Elm in the back yard. The tree filled out with green leaves and about 4 weeks ago started dropping leaves..a lot of leaves. They are yellow. There is one side of the tree that is not yellow and not dropping leaves. The only unusual event was that right about the same time we had our pool resurfaced and we drained the pool into what I think is a sewer clean out. There was about 6,500 gals. of water drained. I don't know if this had anything to do with the problem at all. It was just a thought. The tree is about 12-15 years old. What can I do to save the tree? From journies@worldnet.att.net Wed, 3 May 2000 19:36:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:36:15 -0700 (MST) From: journies@worldnet.att.net journies@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lawn that consists of Bermuda and Rye. I have noticed something creeping in from the outer edges in spots which are not about a foot wide. They are flat (like bald) brown and dry. Can you suggest what it might be, and advise as to how I might get rid of it? I have fertalized recently, and I water for 15 minute periods, every other day. This is not happening under a tree, and it is not caused by dogs. Should I be applying Bermuda seed at this time? P.S. I just read my "sent" message, and at the bottom, it said "Sincerely, Lucy Bradley". Don't know who she is. My name is Joan Enright. Thanks for your help. From ebenware@juno.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:15:31 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:15:31 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Plants Over Summer This question is mostly related to the higher temperatures, along with watering in addition to the shade factors. Go to the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/subject.html#start and sort by subject. You will need to scroll down to "tomatos" but there are many questions relating to tomatos. One specifically relates to your situation, "Tomato Plants Over Summer," which speaks to plants in pots on the east side of the house. Other of the messages with summer dates likely also relate to this topic. On Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) fscapellit@mindspring.com writes: > arid_gardener > Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them > for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are > dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato > food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? > It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. > > I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the > hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? > > Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ebenware@juno.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:39:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:39:33 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Arthritis and Gardening There are many factors to consider in your question: - Do you want to do the job yourself? There is something about gardening; some people love it, others do not. Just like bungee jumping. - Can you afford a service? If the answer to above is no, and you can afford, it, have a service to save yourself the aggravation. - What exactly is/are the limit(s) you have? Most people can carry 10-20 pounds. There is a lot you can do with this. Have your nursery lift the organic material into your car. At home, open the bag and remove it little by little, as you can. Buy only smaller plants. The desert adapted plants will grow best with less maintenance. There are mini roto tillers that weigh around 20 pounds. Ergonomically correct tools are more widely available. - Soil preparation is basic to all planting; many areas in the yard may need a pick to get a hole dug (I live at 83rd and Union Hills in Peoria; my yard is like this). Or, softening up the ground by soaking with water; but the dirt, usually clay like consistency, will be much heavier when wet. - How willing are you to wait for results? If you want the landscape NOW, you will need to have it done professionally. If you can be patient and do work just as your health allows, it may take some time; in a smaller yard, I would guess two years, as with arthritis, you don't know if it will be a "good day" or a "bad day" until it is the day. I would not buy any plants until the hole is prepared because of this reason. - Of course, if you may be able to find a teenager willing to do the hardest work under your direct supervision. There are a lot of options, and gardening is wonderful for people with arthritis as long as they do not overdo. PLEASE do consult with your health care provider with questions about your abilities for lifting, standing while using tools (shovel etc.), bending, squatting and anything else I've left out or is your concern. On Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) jdemeloitz@prodigy.net writes: > arid_gardener > I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I > am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any > kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me > various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am > restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. > Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged > plans? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 23:52:57 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:52:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi Susan, I believe most of your questions can be answered by two Uof A Cooperative Extensiion bulletins; "Trees for Maricopa County" #MC13, and "Mesquites in the Landscape" # 8363 which are available from the Extension for $1.00 each at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or from your public library where they can be copied. Both the Mesquite and the Aleppo Pine are listed in the first bulletin. Both are quite drought resistant once they become established, and do not require any special irrigation or fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 23:53:00 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:53:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak tree pruning If the tree is newly planted you should wait at least one year before doing any pruning except for dead or damaged branches. If the tree is a few years old then it can be pruned at any time. By delaying pruning a young tree the maximum amount of leaves which manufacture food for the tree, are kept on the tree, thus allowing the young tree to grow and gain as much strength as possible, provided it has proper irrigation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jasmin@pangea.ca Thu, 4 May 2000 03:53:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 03:53:55 -0700 (MST) From: jasmin@pangea.ca jasmin@pangea.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? From nurse303@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 21:38:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 21:38:58 -0700 (MST) From: nurse303@aol.com nurse303@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I'm a novice gardener. I planted a rose on the north side of my house last January. That side of the house will get some very hot sunshine in the summer but for now it remains in the shade; anyway, my rose has not grown any branches and is, in fact, drying out. I bought a very good quality rose just to increase my chances but it appears I planted it in the wrong spot. Is there a chance it will come to life for me? In the same large area I also planted begonias, geraniums and a bird of paradise plant, all which seem to be thriving. From rustydog44@hotmail.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:56:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:56:06 -0700 (MST) From: rustydog44@hotmail.com rustydog44@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what Woodrow seeds are? Send me some info on what they are. I heard its a beautiful Plant but not sure if i should grow it in my yard. Please write back on it. If not then its ok. Thanks From sbarvian@prodigy.net Wed, 3 May 2000 19:55:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: sbarvian@prodigy.net sbarvian@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pair of octopus agaves that are both flowering this year. The flowers are now starting to drop from the stalk, and don't look like anything that will take root and grow. What should I be doing to propagate the plants? And how long will it take for seedlings to grow to a reasonable size? (I owned the parent plants for the last 3 years, but don't know how old they were.) Thanks. From dg.anderson@home.com Thu, 4 May 2000 07:43:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 07:43:02 -0700 (MST) From: dg.anderson@home.com dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fertilizer can I put on my lawn at this time of year? From clydic@netzone.com Thu, 4 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The American Horticultural Society's A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants says: Callisia -- syn. Phyodina-- genus, related to Tradescantia, of about 20 species of creeping, spreading or suberect evergreen perennials and (rarely) annuals, from forest margins in S.E., US, Mexico and tropical North and South America. They are valued for their attractive, alternate, succulent leaves. The flowers, borne in paired curled cymes or terminal panicles, are white or pink with 3 sepals and 3 petals. Where not hardy, grow in hanging baskets in a temperate greenhouse or as a houseplant; elsewhere, use as a groundcover in a border. repens: variable, trailing perennial with stems rooting at the nodes to form mats of broadly ovate, bright green leaves...white flowers to 1/2 inch across are borne in spike-like, curled cymes...in autumn. Texas to Argentina. Grows to 3 ft out and 4 inches high. hardy to 50 degrees F/ Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jasmin@pangea.ca Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 3:54 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 04 May 2000 12:29:46 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 12:29:46 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Woodpeckers & saguaros Jackie: You probably don't need to worry too much about the woodpeckers in the saguaro. Saguaros are where the birdes normally nest, so as you might imagine, the plant has developed adaptations to cope with the birds' "remodeling" efforts. Some say that the cavities excavated by Gilded Flickers (Colaptes chrysoides) may in some instances harm the cactus, while those made by Gila Woodpeckers (Melanepes uropygialis) are usually not as damaging to the inner structure of the plant. If you want to figure out which species you have living with you, try the web addresses below for starters. See images of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://www.arizonahighways.com/Wildlife/gilawoodpecker1.html http://www.hoglezoo.org/birds/gila.htm Hear sounds of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/accounts/melanerpes/m._uropygialis.html See images of the Gilded Flicker here: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/telyt/GIFL.HTM http://www.audubon.org/bird/watch/gil/gil.html If you want to find out more go to the search site www.google.com and type in Gila Woodpecker, Gilded Flicker, or the scientific names and see what you turn up. Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 3 >Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) >From: >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are >making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. >Thank you. Jackie Daman Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From smnoel@uswest.net Thu, 4 May 2000 10:03:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 10:03:01 -0700 (MST) From: smnoel@uswest.net smnoel@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page location to purchase low water garden plants From bertfransugar@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 14:16:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 14:16:59 -0700 (MST) From: bertfransugar@aol.com bertfransugar@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I keep bermuda grass from creeping over into adjacent flower beds? From Gregcm2@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 17:32:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:32:20 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomato and cucumber just started getting greyish brown thin streaks about 1-2 mm in width on some of the lower leaves. The leaves are between 3 inchwes to a foot off the ground. It's almost as if something is slithering across the leaves leaving someting behind that kills that part of the leaf. What could it be and how can I eliminate it? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:37:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:37:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Strawberry Care] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp03.primenet.com (smtp03.primenet.com [206.165.6.133]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id RAA24107 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:48 -0700 (MST) From: RCruz9146@aol.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp03.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id RAA17735 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:35 -0700 (MST) Received: from imo20.mx.aol.com(152.163.225.10) via SMTP by smtp03.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA.MaqII; Thu May 4 17:56:23 2000 Received: from RCruz9146@aol.com by imo20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v26.7.) id u.60.2caf38f (5738) for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:29 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <60.2caf38f.2643763c@aol.com> Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:28 EDT Subject: Re: Strawberry Care To: laguy2@primenet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 104 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Is there any way to add acidity to the strawberry plants potting soil that I already planted in 8'' pots? I only used a potting soil that already had vermiculite in it. Right now the plants a surviving but aren't putting out very much fruit. Again any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90-- From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:40:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:40:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Protecting Strawberries I would suggest floating row cover, since it is probably an issue of the early 'birds' getting to your bounty. You can order a copy of our strawberry publication with instructions at the following website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits You might also check the reference section of your public library, #635, to see if this isn't carried in a notebook containing all our home horticulture publications. Linda Guy Master Gardener pbbake@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I've added strawberries to my garden this year and have incountered a problem. The first big berries showed up and just as they were about ripe they got eaten, apparently by birds? Whats the solution? I know I will soon need a sun shade of some kind. Can I kind of cage in the plants to solve both roblems? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:43:40 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:43:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Madagascar Palms See my recent response to similar questions at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001319.html http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001321.html Rot is the most suspect reason. Linda Guy Master Gardener mlperki@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 15 yr old Madagascar palm has lost all it's leaves, no signs of new ones. What's wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:46:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:46:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Insects on Cauliflower Permit me to introduce you to the Timely Tips section of our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm There is often a discussion of the pest commonly troubling a yard during the month in question. I hope this helps you since I am unable to diagnose your problem from your brief description. Linda Guy Master Gardener klmihocko@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted cauliflower this year for the first time. It looks like it has some bugs under the head , how do I get these off for cooking or is it ruined? > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 05 May 2000 07:09:50 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 07:09:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Planting Problems I would not suggest using horse manure unless it has already been well composted. Even then, I would leave the pots unplanted for a few weeks. It will continue to compost in your soil mix and take up the nitrogen that would otherwise be available to the plants. In a flower or vegetable bed, for example, we would amend the soil with organic matter and, even if composted, we would let the ground be fallow about 2 weeks before planting. Our standard recommendation for container soil mix is 1/3 high quality potting soil, 1/3 peat or other organic [but well composted] material, and 1/3 pumice or vermiculite for superior drainage. I prefer the pumice because, over time, the vermiculite floats to the surface of the pot. If you can do this, take away all the saucers/trays and allow the water to run through. You should never let the water be reabsorbed into the root ball, because this causes salt injury, particularly if you fertilize regularly. All runoff should be tossed. It sounds to me as if there is a possibility that you are overwatering the plants. Use a probe or just stick your finger in to see how moist things are in the pot. If you noticed that the plants had no roots after they died, then overwatering is a significant part of the problem. I am not familiar with Miracle Gro but it sounds to me as if you may be overfertilizing. Our container plant specialist uses a very weak solution twice a month, I believe. Sunlight sounds good, as do the size of the pots which diameter should be 1/3 the height of the plant measured from top to soil line. I assume that the sun the pots are getting are early am into the afternoon with some relief in the worst heat of the day. Hope this gets you growing! Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 05 May 2000 09:07:01 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 09:07:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page You will probably not get seed from an Octopus agave, they only occasionally set good seed. But you will get countless numbers of tiny plantlets, known as bulbils, all up and down the stalk. They are probably very tiny right now, but when they are about 2-4 inches long, take them off, put them in sand or good potting soil, they can be very crowded if you like, keep them reasonably moist, int he shade, and in a very short timy they will make roots. After they each have a good root system they can be individually potted and should grow quickly . Good luck, Mary Irish From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri, 5 May 2000 07:24:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:24:55 -0700 (MST) From: nativenursery@redrivernet.com nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can anyone tell me what the lacewing bug is that I am finding on Brittlebush and Sunflowers right now. It is small (not much larger than an aphid) and flat with light colored lacy wings and a black body. There are tons of them and they bite people if disturbed. They do seem to do damage. I know I read somewhere about an insect that was common on Brittlebush, but I can't find the reference. Thanks. Jennifer From lydonmcnick@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 17:36:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:36:25 -0700 (MST) From: lydonmcnick@aol.com lydonmcnick@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring and summer, I had many dusty millers in my garden. They seemed to survive the winter, however, the foliage looks a bit wilted , etc. With the warmer weather, will this perk up, or should I just remove them from the yard, and start over? From bvictoreen@home.com Fri, 5 May 2000 07:46:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:46:21 -0700 (MST) From: bvictoreen@home.com bvictoreen@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of our olive trees is yellowing and has very little new growth. It just looks unhealthy. It is a very large tree and has always been beautiful. What should we do? From rjezeski@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:37 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. bush morning glory and green clove sage. when you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush thank you and keep up the good work From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 14:53:32 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 14:53:32 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Olive tree leaves yellowing Yellow leaves on any plant can be caused by improper irrigation as well as other causes. Please give me more info and I'll try to help you. How much and how often are you watering? Are the leaves the same color as on the other olive trees and are the leaves cupped? Has there been any construction nearby or any chemicals applied? Is there grass near the trees and have you applied weed and feed? Have the leaves turned brown and are they hanging onto the tree? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 16:49:34 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 16:49:34 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing turf This website will provide you with lots of info on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From popart3@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 13:10:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 13:10:19 -0700 (MST) From: popart3@aol.com popart3@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a narrow area alongside an east-facing front walkway in which we have geraniums presently growing. We want to replace the geraniums with a flowering, relatively low-growing plant. We were told at our local nursery that Coreopsis might be an appropriate plant to use. The area gets slightly more than half-day sun during the summer. Do you think Coreopsis would be a good choice? From lsimms@asu.edu Fri, 05 May 2000 11:25:47 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 11:25:47 -0700 From: Laura Simms lsimms@asu.edu Subject: [AG] RE: SW Landscaping Ideas This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping http://www.amwua.org/ Of course the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants of the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/cgi-bin/viewCatPage.pl?sale=&catPage=/index2.html Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms laurasimms@go.com --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="lsimms.vcf" Content-description: Card for Laura Simms Content-disposition: attachment; filename="lsimms.vcf" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit begin:vcard n:Simms;Laura tel;fax:480/965-2519 tel;work:480/965-9119 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:Arizona State University, Biology adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:lsimms@asu.edu title:Accountant Associate x-mozilla-cpt:;-5072 fn:Laura Simms end:vcard --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA)-- From PatBern7@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 15:06:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 15:06:21 -0700 (MST) From: PatBern7@aol.com PatBern7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tangelo tree had a lot of bloosoms, but now I don't see any fruit that has formed. Also our grapefruit tree had very few bloosoms and I only see one or two fruit. Both trees were planted 2-1/2 years ago. We used a liquid fertilizer (miracle-gro) on the trees. All of our neighbors have a lot of fruit on their trees, even one that was only planted last summer. Before we used a citrus fertilizer, but decided to use miracle-gro when my neighbor used it last year, and had such great results with their fruit. What do you think is the problem? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:23 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:23 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] American Hibiscus Society Hi, The American Hibiscus Society has a website and also a place to ask questions. You might try WWW.trop-hibiscus.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, donnvelma@dellnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time From: donnvelma@dellnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Re: Hibiscus plant. Some of the leaves are turning yellow. Several weeks ago Muracid was applied per label instructions. Also just how much water and sunlight does this plant need? Thank you. Velma Steinman >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:28 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:28 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Wind and watering lawns Hi, My suggestion would be to change the method you are using to water. Try a system that is low to the ground so that it can not be blown by the wind. Some people here put a mound of dirt around the edge of there lawn and flood irrigate. I'd hand water if I had to, picking the time of day when the wind is normally light. I use sod, not seed and find it much easier. I'm not sure if this is a new lawn being grown from seed or plugs etc. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, Clystag@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time From: Clystag@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We recently moved to Bullhead City Az. We are trying to cultivate a lawn using fescue. The problem is the winds. We have ample water, but the winds direct the spray away from the lawn. Is there any soil amendmends you are aware of that would hold moisture in the ground, so if a day goes by without water the area doesn't die? I once saw an additive that was like little jelly drops that would expand when moistened and hold water. It was quite expensive and intended for potted plants. It would be a hit in this area if if could be used in larger quantities for landscaping. Any help would be appreciated. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:26 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:26 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak Bush Hello, I didn't find anything called Oak Bush in my resources. My suggestion would be to take a grub hoe or some such tool and go after the roots. By reposting your question maybe someone else will respond with other ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction In a message dated 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, larued@mohaveaz.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time From: larued@mohaveaz.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Please tell me how to control oak brush. I have poisoned it and it continues to come back. I have cut it off to ground level and it returns. How many years will the roots live if I keep it cut off at ground level? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:27 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:27 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: eppiphyllum cacti scale Hi Rosalyn, I'm not a cactus person but it sound to me more like sun scald then any kind of scale. If it is it is the plants natural way of protecting itself when it was sun burned. You probably have a county extension office that could help you more. I will post your question on the arid_gardener board. (Located in Maricopa County of AZ) We have knowledgeable people subscribed to our board. One of them might be able to give you a better answer but I still think your own county extension office is your best bet. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, muts@bellsouth.net writes: << Subj: eppiphyllum cacti scale Date: 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time From: muts@bellsouth.net (Rosalyn Simmons) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com How do you get something that looks like scale off eppis? It will peel off like a scab and is a beige color.We have no info on any chemicals we could safely use on these plants . Any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Rosalyn Simmons, Charleston, S. C. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:25 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:25 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bee Problem Hello, Bee's are having a time as they have been attacked by some kind of mite. I don't believe you had any choice though when they took up residence in your house. When this happened to me I sealed places on the outside of my house where bees might gain access (after the hive was exterminated). When I raised bees we always waited until just after dark before moving a hive cause the bees are all home by dark. I imagine the bees you see flying around are those that were out when the bees were exterminated. I don't believe these few bees will survive without the hive for very long. I'd certainly try to seal places on the outside of my house so this cannot occur again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, tsozuna@goodnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time From: tsozuna@goodnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This past Friday we had to exterminate a bee colony (professionally) from our patio. It was estimated that there were approx. 1500-2500 bees which were within the framing of the house. They used PT 565 XLO (Pyrethrin) and Residual Pest Dust (5% Sevin). To say the least, I am feeling very guilty that some other method of removal could not be done -- I had thought that there was a shortage of bees. My question: Is there a less "violent" way to remove bees (no visible hive was evident unless it was within the framing of the house)? We notice that a small number of bees continue to congregate in the same area and I don't want to spray them with Raid or call the AAA Africanized Bee Removal Specialists again. I do realize that they may be Africanized -- per AAA ABRS, Honey Bees make their hives in May -- but that does nothing to appease my feelings of guilt. Thank you! Theresa From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:24 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:24 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] saguaros and woodpeckers Hi, I hope someone has already answered your question but just in case let me say that this is normal. The saguaro will produce a wall around the hole to protect itself. Other birds may also use the holes made by woodpeckers for nesting. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, mike@advanced-water.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time From: mike@advanced-water.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener do woodpeckers normally nest in saguaros? or are their holes made to access insects within? i have three pairs of woodpeckers (three species) pecking large holes in one of the giant saguaros on my property in Scottsdale, I am concerned that this may indicate an infestation requiring treatment to save this plant. >> From cnations@earthlink.net Fri, 5 May 2000 19:33:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:33:31 -0700 (MST) From: cnations@earthlink.net cnations@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My female African Sumac (approx 8-10" dia) is radically loosing it's leaves and turning yellow. I fertilized with tree stakes a couple of months ago and have deep watered with no improvement. The big male Sumac (approx 18" dia) 60 feet away is doing fine. Any suggestions.... it really looks bad. From itidon@att.worldnet.net Sat, 6 May 2000 11:48:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 11:48:29 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@att.worldnet.net itidon@att.worldnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet, of 3 to 4 foot plants are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the area where the leaves are off. There is no problem on peppers in the same area. Is this a problem or natural. If a problem, any suggestions to fix. Thanks From the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Sat, 6 May 2000 12:47:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 12:47:02 -0700 (MST) From: the_al_mighty@hotmail.com the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could anyone please explain to me how and when I have to prune a ficus benjamina ? Many thanks in advance. From curryy@nomadic.com Sat, 6 May 2000 15:23:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 15:23:28 -0700 (MST) From: curryy@nomadic.com curryy@nomadic.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have my tomato plants from last fall, they are in containers. While they have not produced much, they continue to grow. I have roma, cherry, sweet, celebrity, and patio varieties. I also have bell peppers. I placed a 70% shade cloth cover over the plants. Still, the leaves become brittle and dry, the bell peppers move from green to red while still the size of a half-dollar. My question, how can I assure continual harvest when the temps reach triple-digit, as of recent? And what can I provide the plants to enhance growth? The plants are on the northwest side, the only space available in our yard for the containers. Thank you for any input you can provide. From jranddeb@theriver.com Sat, 06 May 2000 15:57:40 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 15:57:40 -0700 From: Debbie jranddeb@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi: I just now found your address on the internet site. Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper. Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. Debbie Morris --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.
 
I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.
 
Debbie Morris
 --=====================_27800916==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 16:03:35 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:03:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Low Water Use Garden Plants You can find low water use garden plants at most nurseries and home centers. It might be helpful to get an idea of what you would like first. There are many excellent books on the subject and I will be happy to pass on a few to you. Some that I have in my personal library are: Low Water Use Plants for California and The Southwest, by Carol Schuler. The Low Water Flower Gardener by Eric A. Johnson and Scott Millard. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke. The Sunset Western Garden Book (this book contains a plant selection guide which helps you locate plants for particular needs, such as plants for special effects, special situations - including plants for arid gardens - and basic landscaping. You can find all of these books in most bookstores, many nurseries carry them as do many home centers. You may be able to find copies at your local library branch. Having an idea of what plants you might be interested in planting will make your shopping trip a lot easier. The Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum are excellent sources for plants that grow well here in the low desert. They both have a small plant shop and they also hold terrific plant sales twice a year, in the fall and the spring. They both just had their spring sales the end of March to the beginning of April. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener smnoel@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > location to purchase low water garden plants > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 16:20:57 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:20:57 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Aerating Turfgrass Paul: I found an article entitled, Turfgrass Dethatching and Aeration For Low Elevation Turfs, written by David M. Kopen, University of Arizona. It is publication number MC77 and you should be able to get a copy from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. The article speaks mostly of Dethatching but on the 2nd page there is a paragraph and a half on aeration. Here is what it says: "Core cultivation (aerification) can be used to minimize thatch accumulation, to modify its physical characteristics, and to remove certain amounts of thatch. Core cultivation is not as effective as power raking in removing thatch debris, but it is less injurious and disruptive. Soil cores are removed during the cultivation process. These cores can be allowed to breakdown and redistribute soil throughout the thatch. The soil modifies the physical structure of the thatch, making it a better growing medium. Soil incorporation also enhances thatch breakdown by improving physical properties of thatch and introducing microorganisms. Soil cultivation should be done once a year during the vigorous growing season for bermudagrass to minimize thatch accumulation. Most turfgrasses growing on heavy clay or highly disturbed soils require annual cultiviation to restrict thatch buildup. Core cultivation is not a substitute for dethatching! Core cultivation allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate the soil. This is especially important if soils are compacted. Better turf growth results from aerification due to the increased root growth which follows soil cultivation. Aerification can be done once a year on home lawn and commercial turfs when the turf is actively growing. Do not attempt to core cultivate if the soil is very dry, or poor penetration will result". I hope this provides you with the information you were seeking. Sue Bass Master Gardener Retiredplc@aol.com wrote: > Good Morning, > > Have searched the Master Gardner site and find nothing relative to aerating. > > At our Homeowners Association, we are thinking about aerating the property > ($1350) to improve our Bermuda grass this summer. Some areas just seem to > have a problem. > > Comments please. > > Paul From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 6 May 2000 19:30:22 EDT Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 19:30:22 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus not bearing fruit Citrus normally do not bear fruit until they have been planted 4 to 5 years, so it is not unusual for your trees not to be bearing fruit yet. The newly planted trees that you mentioned with fruit will probably drop most or all of it before the year is finished. It is natures way of protecting the tree when it is not ready to bear fruit. As for the fertilizer, I would recommend that you go back to the citrus fertilizer, it has the nutrients that citrus need in this area. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin titled "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden" available for $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or you can make a copy at your local library. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 17:12:37 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:12:37 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Bush Morning Glory and Green Cloud Sage Pruning of the Green Cloud Sage is really done to maintain a shape that you prefer so it is generally pruned whenever maintenance appears to be needed. The shrub, if left alone, can grow to a height and width of about 6' x 6' with a nicely rounded habit. My sources say that this plant responds well to pruning and shaping which is why you rarely see an unpruned speciman. It can be pruned as a hedge or screen. I have this shrub in my yard and I leave it in a more natural form, however I prune the height when necessary so as not to obscure my front windows. Pruning it does not necessarily cause it to grow larger. As for watering, deep watering once every few weeks in the summer is generally sufficient. While the plant is drought tolerant, extreme dryness will cause the plant to shed some leaves. You can use this a gauge to to increase frequency of watering. I've been successful with mine on a schedule of every 10 days on a drip for 2 hours at a time. This ensures the deep watering and flushes salts away from the roots. The Bush Morning Glory generally blooms through May so once blooming is finished it would be fine to prune it. Pruning this plant is usually done when it starts to get leggy and it can be pruned pretty severly to renew growth. I also have this plant and it is on the same watering schedule as the Green Cloud Sage and it has been doing fine for the past 5 years. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener jezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. > bush morning glory and green clove sage. when > you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. > > could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush > > thank you and keep up the good work > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 17:53:46 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:53:46 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fwd: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe Terry: I didn't see that you had received a response to your question. If you have already, I apologize for any repeat information. You can contact the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office about two publications we have. One is pub. 8363, Mesquites in the Landscape and the other is pub. 8446, Palo Verdes in the Landscape. Both publications discuss species, landscape uses, soil, water, fertilization, pruning and problems, including mistletoe. Information on securing publications can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm As for the Phainopeplas, I don't have an answer for you, but I have contacted an acquaintance who is a member of the Maricopa Audubon Society. I have asked her if she can recommend someone who would be able to help you. I'll let you know when I get some information. If you are interested, they have a website which can be reached at: http://www.amug.org/~drowley/mas/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Lucy Bradley wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > Terry Carter > > >Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 21:24:00 -0700 > >From: Terry Carter > >Subject: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe > > > >I have volunteered to do our Home Owner Association > >Newsletter and wonder if you can help me with an article on > >Mesquite/Palo Verde Trees and the problem of mistletoe. > > > >Several of the homeowners in our association are very > >concerned about the number of trees that are dying from what > >appears to be an over abundance of mistletoe. Others are > >concerned about the well being of the Phainopelas. > > > >I would like to help both sides and maybe include tips on > >the proper care and maintenance of the two trees. > > > >Any information you might be able to provide would be > >greatly appreciated. > > > >Thank you. > > > >Terry Carter > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Sat, 6 May 2000 23:43:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 23:43:21 -0700 (MST) From: mhills_sro@msn.com mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page RE: Peach Tree problems A friend in Ahwatukee, Arizona stumped me this April with a problem on her Red Haven Peach Tree. Thought I'd try posting this question to see if any of you have ideas for her to try. This is her second peach tree in 3 years to go down this same road. The other tree is about 50 feet away from this one, was a different variety and ended up dying completely after 2 years of wasting away. The second tree is about 7 years old, with a 7-8 inch diameter trunk and is about 18 feet tall. Has been an excellent yielder in past - last good harvest was 1998. The 1999 peach crop was very small on this tree, with many of the peaches mummifying on the tree. This spring, the tree barely came out of dormancy - all twigs and branches are pliable, but there are only about 50 leaves on the entire tree and maybe 5 blossoms. My friend Chere is most concerned about the balls of sap all over the main trunk, as well as any side branches of an inch or larger. Don't see cracks in the bark or anything similar, just lots of large hardened balls of sap that started showing up this past Fall. The tree is well cared for - good pruning practices, plenty of water, rich soil and well-fertilized. Chere is a University of Arizona Ag College major, but tree diseases are outside her specialty. Any ideas? If so, is it contagious and does she need to worry about other nearby trees - peach, plum, fig and ash? Mike Hills Phoenix, Arizona From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 10:15:10 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:15:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Phaenopepla and mistletoe Terry: I received a response from Laurie Nessel with the Maricopa Audubon Society. Laurie says: Phaenopepla are inextricably linked to mistletoe. They feed mainly on it, and also nest in the clumps of mistletoe . . . . The Phaenopepla will have to find new territory where there is still mistletoe. For more information, contact non-game branch. Try Troy Corman 789-3508 or Lori Averill Murray at 789-3577." Sue Bass Master Gardener From frankf@juno.com Sun, 7 May 2000 08:25:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 08:25:36 -0700 (MST) From: frankf@juno.com frankf@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 10:29:31 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:29:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Yellow leaves on hibiscus Frank: This is a very common question. For an answer I turned to the Tropical Hibiscus Home Page, found at: trop-hibiscus.com. Following is their answer to this question: Basically, for two reasons: 1. The leaves are old and the plant is discarding them. 2. The plant is under some stress. That stress may be from a too strong dosage of fertilizer it recently got or its soil has been too wet recently or some insecticide was applied improperly or its root system was disrupted or lighting conditions in a new location are very different from the old one. It could also be a disease. There are many possible reasons. Sometimes yellow leaves (from stress) are indicative of a problem and sometimes it simply indicates a temporary discomfort the plant is having. You can get a lot of good growing information at the above site. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener frankf@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 May 2000 14:57:57 EDT Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 14:57:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus yellow leaves Over or under watering will cause plant leaves to turn yellow. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From cernetic@uswest.net Sun, 7 May 2000 13:23:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 13:23:44 -0700 (MST) From: cernetic@uswest.net cernetic@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? Could someone also educate me ont the difference between bare root plants and regular plants. Do you know of any Web sites that give information on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 14:39:16 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:39:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie: I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline. Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225. They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents. There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population. You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing. Good luck. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > Hi: > I just now found your address on the internet site. Have > a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of > Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. > About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with > termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people > who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just > spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish > soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs > growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem > left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is > starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely > surface deep, but a few are deeper. > > Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this > saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. > > I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. > > Debbie Morris --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie:
I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline.  Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225.  They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents.

There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population.  You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm
You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing.

Good luck.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener

"Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.

I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.

Debbie Morris

--------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 14:52:34 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:52:34 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Sick plant - Banana yucca --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy: Have you received a response to your question? If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers. I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline. Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday. (480) 941-1225. Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > We are not entirely certain about what the plant in > question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't > see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish > green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground. > It is approximately 3 years old. I recall being told not > to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, > so that's OK. > > Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft > of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, > and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base > of the leaves inside the plant. What has happened, and is > there anything we could do to help save this plant? > > Judy Moler > Phoenix --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy:
Have you received a response to your question?  If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers.  I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline.  Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday.  (480) 941-1225.  Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem.

Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

We are not entirely certain about what the plant in question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground.  It is approximately 3 years old.  I recall being told not to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, so that's OK.

Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base of the leaves inside the plant.  What has happened, and is there anything we could do to help save this plant?

Judy Moler
Phoenix

--------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 15:39:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 15:39:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gerberas as house plants According to two sources I have, Gerbera Daisies can be grown indoors. Information found in the Sunset Western Garden Book states that as a house or greenhouse plant they should be grown in bright light with night temperatures of 60 degrees. They need good soil with excellent drainage. They bloom any time of year with peaks in early summer, late fall. My other source is the American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants. This book states that they can be grown in a soil-based potting mix in bright filtered light. During the growing season, water freely and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstiegrl20@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to keep gerbera daisies as indoor plants, if so how can I keep them blooming? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From obeles@gateway.net Sun, 7 May 2000 16:00:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:00:32 -0700 From: obeles obeles@gateway.net Subject: [AG] White Spots This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly white spots on the leaves of my = oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato plants. What's = causing it -- watering practices, pests? I've looked closely at the = plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any insects, such as = white flies or aphids. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks for = your help. Linda Obele ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly = white spots on=20 the leaves of my oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato=20 plants.  What's causing it -- watering practices, pests?  I've = looked=20 closely at the plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any = insects, such=20 as white flies or aphids.  Has anyone else experienced this?  = Thanks=20 for your help.
 
Linda Obele
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 16:56:30 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 16:56:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Summer flowers for containers We have a very good publication and plant table that you can view on line. You can find it by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers The table will give you lists of flower and bedding plants, their planting and flowering times, their lighting and watering needs and their difficulty to grow among other information. I think it will help you with making choices for your containers. Sue Bass Master Gardener wclipper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What type of flowers besides vinca grow well in the summer? They would be container plants. Some would be in containers facing east and some would be in patio area shaded by afternoon sun. Your response would be most appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Sun, 7 May 2000 16:49:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:49:01 -0700 (MST) From: tessier.g@worldnet.att.net tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hello... i live in central florida. what is the best way to grow a sago palm? From Ronan.1931@aol.com Sun, 7 May 2000 16:37:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:37:59 -0700 (MST) From: Ronan.1931@aol.com Ronan.1931@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a queen palm and its leaves are hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 17:09:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:09:32 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Queen Palm problem We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ronan.1931@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a queen palm and its leaves are > hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:17 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm - Florida The Sago Palm is a small, compact plant that is actually not a true palm, but a cycad. The plant is slow growing, producing new leaves only once a year. The Sago Palm makes an excellent tub or planter subject. It is effective when combined with other tropical and subtropical plants. It is evergreen, grows to a height of 6-10'. It requires part to full shade. Its spread is 3-5'. It requires good quality garden soil and regular irrigation encourages best growth and appearance. The plants may sunburn with full to reflected sun and heat, especially when grown as container plants. For information specific to your part of the country, I would suggest you contact your local County Cooperative Extension Office. You can find them in the phone book or check out the following web site where you can locate the office in your county: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/www/extension/index.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener tessier.g@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > hello... i live in central florida. > what is the best way to grow a sago palm? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From LauraSimms@go.com Mon, 08 May 2000 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) It does not look like this message posted correctly on the list, so I'll try it again. This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how tolandscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping: http://www.amwua.org/. Of course, the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants on the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms Average Gardener laurasimms@go.com ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From raguisto@uswest.net Mon, 8 May 2000 09:01:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:01:18 -0700 (MST) From: raguisto@uswest.net raguisto@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed bulbs can be planted, How?? Thank you very much. From itidon@worldnet.att.net Mon, 8 May 2000 08:54:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 08:54:18 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@worldnet.att.net itidon@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 2 days ago I sent the following E-mail and misstakenly had a error in my address (att and worldnet were reversed). Sorry. On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From ultratica@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 14:21:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 14:21:09 -0700 (MST) From: ultratica@aol.com ultratica@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I visited Phoenix recently and noticed a lot of landscaping was done using a small rock that resembles lava rock, could you tell me what it is called, and do you think that this technique could be used here in Florida where I live?, thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 18:55:38 EDT Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 18:55:38 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rose dying Nurse 303, If your rose planted in January has not shown any growth or doesn't have green leaves it is time to dig it up. The location is not the best, the rose should have at least 5 hours of sunshine and preferably morning sun. It is not unusual for bareroot roses to fail to get started. I've planted several hundred roses and I would guess that 10% didn't make it. If the canes have dried out too much at planting time or they were not watered properly than the chances of survival are not good. I'm enclosing an article on Planting Roses that I had published in the Republic recently. Hope it is helpful. You might want to consider joining one of the rose societies in the valley, If you live in the east valley come join the Mesa East Valley Rose Society which meets on the 2nd Thursday of each month at the Student Center at Mesa Community College at 7.00 PM And while there you can stop to see the over 3000 rose bush garden planted by our rose society. Good luck Rod December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian. From madasmith@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 15:40:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 15:40:12 -0700 (MST) From: madasmith@aol.com madasmith@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I prune my Fairy duster alittle right now? When can I cut it way back? I would like to cut it back to the ground, can I cut it that much? From keithb@sisna.com Mon, 8 May 2000 17:59:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 17:59:02 -0700 (MST) From: keithb@sisna.com keithb@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted a peach tree 2-years ago, the first year it had fruit, the second year if froze and had no fruit, this year it looked real good but when the blossoms started to come out they would just turn brown and fall off before completely opening up? What can I do to help my peach tree? Thank You From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 08:16:24 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:16:24 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] When to harvest Garlic >From you description, I assume you have the top-setting hard neck type. The bulbs may be slightly larger if the scape is removed but will be harder when cured and store better if left intact. The number of leaves reflects the number of wrappers around the bulb. A dry leaf indicates that wrapper is either dying off or has already died off. The recommendation is to harvest when there are still a few green leaves. If you wait until all of the leaves have died off, the wrappers may come off, water and fungi may already have entered the bulb between the cloves, and they won't store as well. When harvesting with green leaves with the wrappers still firmly covering the bulb, you need to pay more attention to curing to prevent molds and fungus after harvesting. This from my personal experience - others have different opinions. There does not appear to be a consensus so I recommend experimenting both ways with the same crop to see what works best for you. The size of the garlic bulb is related to the size of the seed clove and to the size of the bulb the clove came from. For this reason I have never tried growing from the bulbils from the top of the scape but always select the seed clove from the bulbs. Bulbils from other top setting alliums (e.g., Egyptian onions and walking onions) produce plants so I assume the garlic bulbils would as well, but I suspect you might get rounds instead of bulbs with cloves. Olin Miller ---- Original Message ----- From: > I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should > be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started > to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of > a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should > I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar > to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed > bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed > bulbs can be planted, How?? From Gregcm2@aol.com Tue, 9 May 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 08:45:31 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:45:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Raspberries and Bare Root Plants Raspberries are not adapted to the desert climate around Phoenix. If you want to try it anyway (as I did), choose a variety with the lowest chill requirement. There some low chill black berry types which would be a better choice. Deciduous trees and shrubs are usually available as bare root stock. They are dug up when the plant is dormant. The soil is removed from the roots, then the plant roots are packed in damp saw dust (usually) for shipment. Around Phoenix, the plant should be planted in late winter to establish the roots before it breaks dormancy, through January to about mid February. "Regular" plants are grown in containers or dug up from their growing area with the root ball intact and placed in containers or wrapped in burlap. Bare root plants which did not sell during the normal planting season are often available later in containers. In theory, you could plant container plants at any time but the hot summer months are very stressful to non-desert type plants so it's best to wait until October. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? > Could someone also educate me ont the difference > between bare root plants and regular plants. > Do you know of any Web sites that give information > on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? > My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. > I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomato Blossom End Rot There is an abundance of calcium available in our desert soil. If blossom end rot is the only problem, it more likely to be caused by a combination of drought and then drowning the plant. Before adding calcium, be certain to establish regular watering practices. Calcium may be added as calcium sulfate supplied in agricultural/horticultural gypsum. See also http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm for more information about this problem. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Mon, 8 May 2000 21:28:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 21:28:29 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Pomagranate tree in my backyard. We planted it a year ago. The first fruit was very poor, very dry, quite frankly it was no good to eat. The tree is now in it's 2nd blooming and fruit is set on the tree. What should I be doing to assure good fruit this season. The tree was in bloom when we purchased it & it was in a 5 gal.container. So was fairly good size. From NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:51 -0700 (MST) From: NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My verbena is drying out. It is getting enough water, but the plants seem to have a short life span....1 - 2 seasons. They have Western exposure, good drainage....any suggestions? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:02 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 10:44:31 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:44:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Lower Tomato Leaves Dying Message is resent to change subject line Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From cmaldo@uswest.net Tue, 9 May 2000 14:34:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 14:34:56 -0700 (MST) From: cmaldo@uswest.net cmaldo@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought a 6 station Champion irrigation watering timer and was wondering how to set it for watering. My grass has sprinklers in the front and back. Should I water every other day for 10 min. I have Qween palms and dessert shrubs on drip in the front and back. Should they be every 3rd day for one hour? They are both in front and back. I have shade trees, citrus, and peach trees in back on flood irrigation, should they be watered every 14 days. I wasn't sure. Could you tell me if my set up is accurate or should I water more or less? Thank you. Cindy From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 9 May 2000 19:29:36 EDT Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:29:36 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation Cindy, If you have flood irrigation in part of your yard, it should be very adequate for your trees and shrubs unless you happen to be growing roses or some other non native plants that must be watered more often than every two weeks. Your drip irrigated trees should be deep watered to a depth in excess of three feet which you won't do in one hour. I suggest that you check out these websites on irrigation where your questions will be answered. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sasutton@ktc.com Tue, 9 May 2000 20:13:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 20:13:41 -0700 (MST) From: sasutton@ktc.com sasutton@ktc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 21:33:59 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Gopher Tunnels in Root Ares Gopher tunnels in the watering basin can drain water away from the roots of a plant and cause it to decline. Plugging the holes (may be difficult) should help. I have a mature grapefruit tree which had the problem several years ago. The leaves were dying and it did not appear to be healthy. Plugging the holes before irrigating didn't work - the water would find a way to drain away through the tunnels. I finally converted to drip irrigation with 1 gph emitters spaced at 1 foot on a half-inch drip line at the canopy (a 15 foot dia canopy required 52 emitters). The tree recovered, I sometimes still have the gopher hole problem, but with drip irrigation the water soaks in and doesn't drain away. So, if you can't eliminate the gophers and plug the tunnels, you might consider converting to drip irrigation scaled to the needs of the specific plant. Olin Miller .---- Original Message ----- From: > Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. > Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Wed, 10 May 2000 08:31:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 08:31:15 -0700 (MST) From: Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have an older grapefruit tree (probably 45 years old) It is sort of dying from the top with the bark either peeling off dry or else a sort of white canker developing in large areas on the bark. Probably this is a sign that the tree is just getting too old and will die. We have pruned off quite a bit but most of the top of the tree is gone. Is there anything to do or should one just cut out the tree and start over. We have an irrigated lot in Tempe. Thanks From jbbell310@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 10:10:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:10:40 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page there is a white fuzzy looking substance on the undersides of stems on my bower vine (pandorea jasminoides) also on celosia plants. What do I do? These are new plants. From jbbell310@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:35 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our new puppy chewed most of the bark off of a two year old orange tree, one major branch has died. will the entire tree die? can I paint over this? From tderieg@goodnet.com Wed, 10 May 2000 12:26:35 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 12:26:35 -0700 From: Tom Derieg tderieg@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] fertilizer for hibiscus This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0-- From kwwa@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) From: kwwa@aol.com kwwa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. From scorpion10310@juno.com Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:15 -0700 (MST) From: scorpion10310@juno.com scorpion10310@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my shamel ash tree leaves keep blowing/shedding when the winds blows? Also can the seeds from tree be prevented from growing? Thanks From g.ross@mindspring.com Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) From: g.ross@mindspring.com g.ross@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several plant limbs I have noticed rows of small white deposits that could be eggs. They are easily rubbed off. Any idea what it may be? I also have planted a Hong Kong Orchard tree and something is eating sizeable holes in the leaves. I have inspected the tree for any sign of insects and cannot find a thing. The same thing is happening with a Crepe Myrtle. Any idea what to look for? or how to deal with these problems? From Kamerakaye@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 17:51:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: Kamerakaye@aol.com Kamerakaye@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? From dtharris2@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 17:25:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:25:19 -0700 (MST) From: dtharris2@cs.com dtharris2@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a gardenia that until recently has looked very nice. Most of the white flowers look brown and diseased. I am watering them plenty. I also have a ficus tree about 5 feet tall. The problem is the trunk tapers down to such a small diameter the the top foot and a half can't hold itself up. Should I top the tree? Thank you in advance for your help. From azneet@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 21:51:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 21:51:42 -0700 (MST) From: azneet@aol.com azneet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pyracanthia bush that has white fuzzy stuff on it. It looks like similar to cotton. I have sprayed with water, which washes some of it away, but it is never completely gone. Do you know if this is a fungus? If so how do I get rid of it? Also, how do I care for a star-jasmine? Thanks for your response. From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Wed, 10 May 2000 22:49:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:49:07 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Pomegranate tree. The fruit on it is very dry inside/pulpy & not good to eat. What do I need to do to obtain good fruit on this tree. Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Wed, 10 May 2000 22:44:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:44:41 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a new house in Peoria and will be moving in about the end of July. The rear yard is about 65 feet wide by 40 feet deep. I want to find a book or web site devoted to plans or design ideas to guide me in preparing a desert theme, simple back yard area. I checked the Chandler public library but they didn't have what I'm looking for. I don't know if anyone does. I would appreciate any help you can give me. I will have to start the whole project from scratch. From carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Thu, 11 May 2000 06:51:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:51:25 -0700 (MST) From: carla.manley@worldnet.att.net carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks From David.W.Norton@aexp.com Thu, 11 May 2000 06:14:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:14:47 -0700 (MST) From: David.W.Norton@aexp.com David.W.Norton@aexp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water should I give to a sego palm? It gets direct sun until early afternoon. Leaves are yellowing. But I have new growth. They have been planted for about a month. Also, should I remove the dead flowers from an african daisy? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:19:25 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:19:25 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Web Worms We just learned about these yesterday morning from Ag Agent Terry Mikel at the Monthly Update for Master Gardeners. We're not sure why there are more of these this year than most, but this cousin of the tent caterpillar has been noted valley-wide and in particular Terry is receiving worried calls from nurseries who anticipate trouble selling impacted trees in the short term. [It's hard for them to tell a customer 'trust me'.] These web worms target the palos [breas and verdes] and old/new world acacias [excl. Australian]. If you have these, check them out, too. HOWEVER, this is strictly cosmetic damage, and Terry assures us that the branches will eventually leaf out, so do not prune them away. Web worms will focus on the tender new ends at the terminals, so unless the tree is very young and you fear that the infestation will have a dramatic impact, you have several options. Leave the tree alone. Spray well with water to hose them off. Use Bt [bacillus thuringiensis] which is the traditional organic approach to any caterpillar. Or use Sevin. Terry notes that the best time to spray is after sundown, since these are nocturnal critters. Avoid the temptation to overwater these native trees. You'll just produce more luxuriant and voluminous vegetation to have to prune. Take heart in knowing it is nothing that you did, that you are not alone! Linda Guy Master Gardener Kamerakaye@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 11 May 2000 07:34:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:34:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Carla: I found this site on the web pertaining to Orchids. There is a frequently asked questions section as well as a section on "Where to Grow", if you choose "in the home" it appears that it will provide you with all the information you need. Visit http://orchidweb.org/ Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener carla.manley@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:41:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:41:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale Unfortunately, all our College of Ag materials suggest that little can be done to contain your problem. I've read that the females do not need the males to reproduce. As an example, I enclose a link to the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html The scale insect attaches itself to grass roots and siphons off water and nutrients. The plant responds by forming a cyst or gall around the insect, but will still suffer, brown up and die. As you have experienced, small infestations grow larger quite quickly. Evidently, the immature insect overwinters within these cysts and emerge in May to find new feeding sites. [This is only a warm season turf problem.] In reviewing the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, it suggests removing and disposing of affected sod before it spreads too far. You may be beyond this point. Watering in beneficial nematodes during April and May may provide some control if they can attack the scale insects when they emerge from the cysts. Perhaps another list member has something up his/her sleeve to help you. Linda Guy Master Gardener kwwa@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nfk54401@home.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:18 -0700 From: Norma Kafer nfk54401@home.com Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Sue, The Orchid Society of Arizona has a web site at http://welcome.to/orchidsocietyaz We meet the first Thursday at 7:00 at the Valley Garden Center 1809 N. 15th Ave. We have a grower on call every month plus all the officers are on line. Most of the members are new growers and we gear our meetings to them. Our program this month was potting orchid seedlings which were donated and no cost to the participant.