From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:56:37 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:56:37 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sineapine appears to be a word according to my ancient (1953) Webster's Unabridged. It is an alkaloid, C16H25NO8 found in seeds of black mustard and other brassicas. A web search also turns up lots of info about it in Canola seed and oil. But I couldn't find either (Sinepine or Sinapine) or similar words in the plant and botany databases. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am trying to find a word that I once heard that refers to somesort of a tree seedling. My best recollection of the spelling is: Sinepine or Sinapine. Can you tell me anything about this or if there is such a word.Thanks so much! > > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:57:51 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 11:57:51 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] "Sinepine or Sinapine" Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sineapine appears to be a word according to my ancient (1953) Webster's Unabridged. It is an alkaloid, C16H25NO8 found in seeds of black mustard and other brassicas. A web search also turns up lots of info about it in Canola seed and oil. But I couldn't find either (Sinepine or Sinapine) or similar words in the plant and botany databases. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am trying to find a word that I once heard that refers to somesort of a tree seedling. My best recollection of the spelling is: Sinepine or Sinapine. Can you tell me anything about this or if there is such a word.Thanks so much! > > From jrmcd64@cs.com Sun, 30 Apr 2000 10:39:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 10:39:27 -0700 (MST) From: jrmcd64@cs.com jrmcd64@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page the other day i threw some lilly miller slug and snail bait into my vegtable garden. i see some landed on the leaf lettuce. i am wondering if the lettuce would be safe to eat after washing it off. thank you From GEMolumby@aol.com Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:46:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 12:46:30 -0700 (MST) From: GEMolumby@aol.com GEMolumby@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Sun City and have a real problem killing out Nut Grass (Hope that's the name) in my flower and planting areas. I have tried "Roundup" with little results, Do you have any advise? From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:00:19 -0700 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:00:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Nut Grass A fellow Master Gardener has had success with a product called "Manage" but he does state that it will take more than one application of this product to kill the nut grass. Sue Bass Master Gardener GEMolumby@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Sun City and have a real problem killing out Nut Grass (Hope that's the name) in my flower and planting areas. I have tried "Roundup" with little results, Do you have any advise? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Mon, 1 May 2000 08:08:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 08:08:29 -0700 (MST) From: Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a madagascar palm that I have had for several years. I live in Pennsylvania so I keep it outside in full sun during the late spring early fall. In winter it is in a window that receives lots of sun. This spring I have noticed (while still in the house) the new leaves coming out on top are turning black and dieing off?? I don't think that the plant is too big for the pot, I don't water it too much. I don't know what this can be. I don't see any signs of inscets around the crown where this is happening or any where else on the plant? I am really concerned as this is one of our favorite plants and one that we have had for quite some time. Help!!!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated. From LauraSimms@go.com Mon, 01 May 2000 12:04:38 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 12:04:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help the first time it closed up. I just watered it again early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up again later that day. There are no visible markings or discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by something else? ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From DTopham1@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 16:58:29 EDT Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 16:58:29 EDT From: DTopham1@aol.com DTopham1@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peppers and Tomatoes I have several tomatoe and bellpepper plants. My tomatoes are doing great except one which all of a sudden the bottom 1-2 inches of leaves have turned a bright yellow and of course are dying. The rest of the plant looks like the others and I don't see any eating of the leaves. Any suggestions on this. The other question is for my peppers. They do have something nibbling on them but I haven't been able to catch the culprit. The are next to my tomatoes (but 2 rows from my yellowing tomatoe) and I don't see anything eating them. What might be eating these plants and what would be the most natural way to rid the pest. Thanks, Marcy From EJSchmel@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 14:27:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 14:27:44 -0700 (MST) From: EJSchmel@aol.com EJSchmel@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the Tempe area and this past fall planted tulips, daffodils, crocus in a large pot. On top I planted pansies. As spring approached, the bulbs came up, bloomed and have since died back. Now my question is, when if ever do I dig up the bulbs? I would like to plant something else in the pot for summer, but am afraid that I will injur the bulbs planting something else. The bulbs really didn't do too well in the pot and I would like to maybe plant them in the ground. Shall I wait to dig them up, or do I dig them up and put them in a dry cool location? Please advise - Edie From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 01 May 2000 17:08:44 -0700 Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 17:08:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: African Sumac Frank: How often are you watering? Is the tree on a drip system? For what duration of time are you watering? A good watering guide is to water the tree to a depth of three feet (you can check the depth with a rod) every two weeks. Yellowing leaves can be caused by many things, including alkaline soils, excessive watering, inadequate watering, iron deficiency, leaf scorch, nitrogen deficiency, salt damage, etc. You asked for more information on this tree and I found some information in Ronald Dinchak's book, An Illustrated Guide To Landscape Trees of Southern Arizona. The African Sumac is a member of the Cashew family. It is most often trained to a graceful, broad-crowned, evergreen tree reaching a height of 25 feet (7.6 meters). It is sometimes clipped to form a hedge. It is a dioecious plant with each individual plant possessing either the "male" or "female" flowers. Flowers are produced throughout the winter, generally from January through February. The ovulate flowers are tiny, creamy white to yellow, and occur in clusters. Developing fruits occur in the clusters of 40 to 50 individuals. Maturation of fruit occurs in April and May. Each fruit is round and 1/6 inch in diameter. Each contains a single seed. As a landscape plant, the African Sumac has become extremely popular in Arizona. The interesting branching pattern and effective dark red bark make the African sumac an excellent specimen plant. The evergreen foliage makes it useful as a screen. It can be clipped and planted into a hedge. Growth rates are slow if the plant receives only minimal water. However, with adequate water and fertilizer, growth rates can be speeded up. Under these conditions, small trees can grow up reasonably quickly. As for maintenance requirements, the book states that the African sumac tolerates summer heat, and mature specimens can be drought resistant. They will also thrive in lawns receiving irrigation. The plant is hardy to temperature of 12 to 15 degrees F. The tree can be planted in almost nay soil type, but it must be given adequate drainage since it is moderately susceptible to Texas root rot. Sumac responds well to pruning, which can be done any time of year. Since the tree is moderately susceptible to iron chlorosis, give the plant an iron source at least twice a year. This may be more than you ever wanted to know about the African Sumac. :>) If you would like more information on Texas root rot, we have an excellent publication available. Publication 8734. Also, you may want to take a look at our on-line article AZ 1034 Verticillium Wilt. The symptoms of this can be yellowing leaves, with leaf drop too. Sue Bass Master Gardener Dorcil@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a 5 year old African Sumac tree. It has lost its dark green look to the leaves and quite a few turned yellow and dropped off. I notice the suckers are nice and green and there is some new grouth sarting among the dry looking leaves but it looks kind of barren. I have a 5 foot square berm aroung itand have deep waterd, given it iron and a multi purpose fert, any suggestions > Thanks Frank Brown. Also could you send me any infor on this tree as to its care. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rjezeski@aol.com Mon, 1 May 2000 18:49:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:49:31 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help thank you From dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Mon, 1 May 2000 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) From: dlstanley@lawtonnet.net dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I Live in southern Oklahoma (zone 7) and I just planted 2 pomegrante trees , the nursery I orderded them from said they would do fine in this climat. Im not sure they will from what I have found I need to be in zone 8. Can I do anything to help the trees grow successfully? From wasclyde@uswest.net Tue, 2 May 2000 07:19:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: wasclyde@uswest.net wasclyde@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re:Watering for TIF - last summer I think we overwatered based on the schedule the prior owners had set on the sprinkler timers: everyday for about 20 minutes. I have the sprinklers now set for every third day for about 12 minutes. Is there a recommended frequency for watering that helps the turf grow strong deep roots, keeps it green but does not create excessive top growth? Second question. What is a recommended feeding schedule for TIF? Thank You. From rjezeski@aol.com Tue, 2 May 2000 07:39:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have three large honeysuckles planted at the end of our driveway. two are doing just great but the third one is dying very fast. i believe dogs are using it as a place to urinate on. any suggestion. the plants are about 30 inches tall,fun sun during the day thanks From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 02 May 2000 09:24:45 -0700 Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 09:24:45 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? Dear Laura, There are a couple of possibilities for why your agave has closed up. The most likely is that the plant is experiencing severe drought stress from the transplant. While every two weeks is a good schedule for an established plant, it might not be quite enough for a transplanted one. This would be particularly true as the weather warms up. I would water it weekly and be sure to water slowly and well all around the plant so that you wet a large zone for the roots to grow. The other possibilities are not so nice. Plants that have been infected by the agave snout weevil, to which I am sorry to say the Agave americana is very susceptible, have these symptoms: the outer leaves begin to fall away from the central leaves leaving it exposed like a spike, the central leaves fail to unfold and open remaining 'in bud' until they finally fall over, and the entire plant begins to lose leaves and die without flowering. There is nothing to be done once the infestation of the weevil is that far along. Sorry. The other not so nice, or otherwise depending on your perspective, is that your plant is preparing to bloom. When bloom begins, and before you see the spike, the central leaves tighten around the emerging flowering stalk. If this is the case, you will see the flowering stalk very shortly and voila, you get to see the extraordinary bloom of this agave. Best of luck, Mary Irish Laura Simms wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my > front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it > is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it > established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip > irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the > weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the > leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. > I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help > the first time it closed up. I just watered it again > early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up > again later that day. There are no visible markings or > discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets > about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby > plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I > overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by > something else? > > ___________________________________________________ > GO Network Mail > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dm@nip.com Tue, 2 May 2000 11:32:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 11:32:33 -0700 (MST) From: dm@nip.com dm@nip.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My euonymus got yellow leaves and then they all fell off. Now the leaves are growing in green. What's going on? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 2 May 2000 20:16:01 EDT Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 20:16:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering turf On the weather page of both the Tribune and the Republic is a spot titled Lawn where each day is given the amount of water that should be applied if the the turf has not been watered for three days. Todays amount is 0.66 inches. You can measure the amount you are applying by setting out several tuna fish cans or similiar and running your sprinklers for 15 minutes. Measure the amount in each can and average them out. This will tell you wheather you are over or underwatering. Check out these websites on turf care. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html UofA recommends fertilizing hybrid bermuda during the months of May, June, July and August with monthly applications of one pound of actual nitrogen. This means that if your fertilizer has an analysis of 21-0-0 then you would apply 5 pounds of fertilizer each time. If it were only a 10-10-10 then you would apply 10 pounds of fertilizer each time. Good luck. Rod From rblack@fix.net Tue, 2 May 2000 17:45:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 17:45:52 -0700 (MST) From: rblack@fix.net rblack@fix.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does music have any effect on how/how well plants grow? Do you have any study material on this? I am doing a science project. From CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Wed, 3 May 2000 00:57:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 00:57:04 -0700 (MST) From: CREATIVONE@AOL.COM CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. Thank You, Tori From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 03 May 2000 07:49:17 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 07:49:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dwarf kumquat You might want to contact Dick Gross with the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. Dick Gross, 4110 W. Hatcher Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85051-3247 (602) 939-4570 He may be able to point you in the right direction. Sue Bass Master Gardener CREATIVONE@AOL.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. > Thank You, > Tori > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cactusaznative@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 07:53:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 07:53:08 -0700 (MST) From: cactusaznative@aol.com cactusaznative@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Heritage Live Oak that I would like to have trimmed from the bottom to make a higher crown but I'm not sure when this should be done. Also what is the best nourishment for it. It seems to be thriving. From La33ey@email.msn.com Wed, 03 May 2000 10:58:27 -0700 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 10:58:27 -0700 From: La33ey La33ey@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi, We're contemplating planting at least three Chilean Mesquites in our backyard. Does your organization recommend/support the planting of the Chilean Mesquite in the Phoenix area? Will such a tree attract birds? Does the Chilean Mesquite require special fertilizer, watering, etc? Our second choice is the Allepo Pine. Any comments? Susan in Phoenix La33ey@email.msn.com From billied@goodnet.com Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) From: billied@goodnet.com billied@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. Thank you. Jackie Daman From taman@mdch.com Wed, 3 May 2000 11:38:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: taman@mdch.com taman@mdch.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am unable to find the name of a cactus I received as a gift. I know it is of the opuntia family and is called a Christmas Tree Cactus. Not a Christmas Cactus. This one never flowers and grows only to about a height of one foot. It has many 'arms' and the spines resemble hair. Please help if you can. From tmaki@amfam.com Wed, 3 May 2000 12:49:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 12:49:19 -0700 (MST) From: tmaki@amfam.com tmaki@amfam.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:37:05 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:37:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Dwarf Kumquat Have you tried Greenfield Nursery in Mesa, they specialize in citrus and grow their stock locally. Their website is www.greenfieldcitrus.com 2558 E. Lehi Rd. Mesa 602 830 8000 Good luck. Rod From reeva5@speedchoice.com Wed, 3 May 2000 16:05:13 -0600 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 16:05:13 -0600 From: Randee reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is it true that the roots of a tree only go out to the length of the = branches? ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is it true that the roots of = a tree=20 only go out to the length of the = branches?
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 20:06:30 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 20:06:30 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Tree roots Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. Rod From fscapellit@mindspring.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged plans? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 3 May 2000 18:35:25 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 18:35:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree roots ----- Original Message ----- From: > Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I > have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. > Rod > I also have roots from a honey locust tree growing clear across the lawn - about 40 feet. -Olin From jwplus@goodnet.com Wed, 3 May 2000 17:35:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:35:43 -0700 (MST) From: jwplus@goodnet.com jwplus@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Chinese Elm in the back yard. The tree filled out with green leaves and about 4 weeks ago started dropping leaves..a lot of leaves. They are yellow. There is one side of the tree that is not yellow and not dropping leaves. The only unusual event was that right about the same time we had our pool resurfaced and we drained the pool into what I think is a sewer clean out. There was about 6,500 gals. of water drained. I don't know if this had anything to do with the problem at all. It was just a thought. The tree is about 12-15 years old. What can I do to save the tree? From journies@worldnet.att.net Wed, 3 May 2000 19:36:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:36:15 -0700 (MST) From: journies@worldnet.att.net journies@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lawn that consists of Bermuda and Rye. I have noticed something creeping in from the outer edges in spots which are not about a foot wide. They are flat (like bald) brown and dry. Can you suggest what it might be, and advise as to how I might get rid of it? I have fertalized recently, and I water for 15 minute periods, every other day. This is not happening under a tree, and it is not caused by dogs. Should I be applying Bermuda seed at this time? P.S. I just read my "sent" message, and at the bottom, it said "Sincerely, Lucy Bradley". Don't know who she is. My name is Joan Enright. Thanks for your help. From ebenware@juno.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:15:31 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:15:31 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Plants Over Summer This question is mostly related to the higher temperatures, along with watering in addition to the shade factors. Go to the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/subject.html#start and sort by subject. You will need to scroll down to "tomatos" but there are many questions relating to tomatos. One specifically relates to your situation, "Tomato Plants Over Summer," which speaks to plants in pots on the east side of the house. Other of the messages with summer dates likely also relate to this topic. On Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) fscapellit@mindspring.com writes: > arid_gardener > Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them > for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are > dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato > food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? > It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. > > I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the > hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? > > Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ebenware@juno.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:39:33 -0700 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:39:33 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Arthritis and Gardening There are many factors to consider in your question: - Do you want to do the job yourself? There is something about gardening; some people love it, others do not. Just like bungee jumping. - Can you afford a service? If the answer to above is no, and you can afford, it, have a service to save yourself the aggravation. - What exactly is/are the limit(s) you have? Most people can carry 10-20 pounds. There is a lot you can do with this. Have your nursery lift the organic material into your car. At home, open the bag and remove it little by little, as you can. Buy only smaller plants. The desert adapted plants will grow best with less maintenance. There are mini roto tillers that weigh around 20 pounds. Ergonomically correct tools are more widely available. - Soil preparation is basic to all planting; many areas in the yard may need a pick to get a hole dug (I live at 83rd and Union Hills in Peoria; my yard is like this). Or, softening up the ground by soaking with water; but the dirt, usually clay like consistency, will be much heavier when wet. - How willing are you to wait for results? If you want the landscape NOW, you will need to have it done professionally. If you can be patient and do work just as your health allows, it may take some time; in a smaller yard, I would guess two years, as with arthritis, you don't know if it will be a "good day" or a "bad day" until it is the day. I would not buy any plants until the hole is prepared because of this reason. - Of course, if you may be able to find a teenager willing to do the hardest work under your direct supervision. There are a lot of options, and gardening is wonderful for people with arthritis as long as they do not overdo. PLEASE do consult with your health care provider with questions about your abilities for lifting, standing while using tools (shovel etc.), bending, squatting and anything else I've left out or is your concern. On Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) jdemeloitz@prodigy.net writes: > arid_gardener > I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I > am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any > kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me > various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am > restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. > Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged > plans? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 23:52:57 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:52:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi Susan, I believe most of your questions can be answered by two Uof A Cooperative Extensiion bulletins; "Trees for Maricopa County" #MC13, and "Mesquites in the Landscape" # 8363 which are available from the Extension for $1.00 each at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or from your public library where they can be copied. Both the Mesquite and the Aleppo Pine are listed in the first bulletin. Both are quite drought resistant once they become established, and do not require any special irrigation or fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 23:53:00 EDT Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:53:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak tree pruning If the tree is newly planted you should wait at least one year before doing any pruning except for dead or damaged branches. If the tree is a few years old then it can be pruned at any time. By delaying pruning a young tree the maximum amount of leaves which manufacture food for the tree, are kept on the tree, thus allowing the young tree to grow and gain as much strength as possible, provided it has proper irrigation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jasmin@pangea.ca Thu, 4 May 2000 03:53:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 03:53:55 -0700 (MST) From: jasmin@pangea.ca jasmin@pangea.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? From nurse303@aol.com Wed, 3 May 2000 21:38:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 21:38:58 -0700 (MST) From: nurse303@aol.com nurse303@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I'm a novice gardener. I planted a rose on the north side of my house last January. That side of the house will get some very hot sunshine in the summer but for now it remains in the shade; anyway, my rose has not grown any branches and is, in fact, drying out. I bought a very good quality rose just to increase my chances but it appears I planted it in the wrong spot. Is there a chance it will come to life for me? In the same large area I also planted begonias, geraniums and a bird of paradise plant, all which seem to be thriving. From rustydog44@hotmail.com Wed, 3 May 2000 19:56:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:56:06 -0700 (MST) From: rustydog44@hotmail.com rustydog44@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what Woodrow seeds are? Send me some info on what they are. I heard its a beautiful Plant but not sure if i should grow it in my yard. Please write back on it. If not then its ok. Thanks From sbarvian@prodigy.net Wed, 3 May 2000 19:55:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: sbarvian@prodigy.net sbarvian@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pair of octopus agaves that are both flowering this year. The flowers are now starting to drop from the stalk, and don't look like anything that will take root and grow. What should I be doing to propagate the plants? And how long will it take for seedlings to grow to a reasonable size? (I owned the parent plants for the last 3 years, but don't know how old they were.) Thanks. From dg.anderson@home.com Thu, 4 May 2000 07:43:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 07:43:02 -0700 (MST) From: dg.anderson@home.com dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fertilizer can I put on my lawn at this time of year? From clydic@netzone.com Thu, 4 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The American Horticultural Society's A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants says: Callisia -- syn. Phyodina-- genus, related to Tradescantia, of about 20 species of creeping, spreading or suberect evergreen perennials and (rarely) annuals, from forest margins in S.E., US, Mexico and tropical North and South America. They are valued for their attractive, alternate, succulent leaves. The flowers, borne in paired curled cymes or terminal panicles, are white or pink with 3 sepals and 3 petals. Where not hardy, grow in hanging baskets in a temperate greenhouse or as a houseplant; elsewhere, use as a groundcover in a border. repens: variable, trailing perennial with stems rooting at the nodes to form mats of broadly ovate, bright green leaves...white flowers to 1/2 inch across are borne in spike-like, curled cymes...in autumn. Texas to Argentina. Grows to 3 ft out and 4 inches high. hardy to 50 degrees F/ Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jasmin@pangea.ca Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 3:54 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu, 04 May 2000 12:29:46 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 12:29:46 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Woodpeckers & saguaros Jackie: You probably don't need to worry too much about the woodpeckers in the saguaro. Saguaros are where the birdes normally nest, so as you might imagine, the plant has developed adaptations to cope with the birds' "remodeling" efforts. Some say that the cavities excavated by Gilded Flickers (Colaptes chrysoides) may in some instances harm the cactus, while those made by Gila Woodpeckers (Melanepes uropygialis) are usually not as damaging to the inner structure of the plant. If you want to figure out which species you have living with you, try the web addresses below for starters. See images of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://www.arizonahighways.com/Wildlife/gilawoodpecker1.html http://www.hoglezoo.org/birds/gila.htm Hear sounds of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/accounts/melanerpes/m._uropygialis.html See images of the Gilded Flicker here: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/telyt/GIFL.HTM http://www.audubon.org/bird/watch/gil/gil.html If you want to find out more go to the search site www.google.com and type in Gila Woodpecker, Gilded Flicker, or the scientific names and see what you turn up. Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 3 >Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) >From: >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are >making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. >Thank you. Jackie Daman Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From smnoel@uswest.net Thu, 4 May 2000 10:03:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 10:03:01 -0700 (MST) From: smnoel@uswest.net smnoel@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page location to purchase low water garden plants From bertfransugar@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 14:16:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 14:16:59 -0700 (MST) From: bertfransugar@aol.com bertfransugar@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I keep bermuda grass from creeping over into adjacent flower beds? From Gregcm2@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 17:32:20 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:32:20 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomato and cucumber just started getting greyish brown thin streaks about 1-2 mm in width on some of the lower leaves. The leaves are between 3 inchwes to a foot off the ground. It's almost as if something is slithering across the leaves leaving someting behind that kills that part of the leaf. What could it be and how can I eliminate it? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:37:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:37:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Strawberry Care] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp03.primenet.com (smtp03.primenet.com [206.165.6.133]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id RAA24107 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:48 -0700 (MST) From: RCruz9146@aol.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp03.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id RAA17735 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:35 -0700 (MST) Received: from imo20.mx.aol.com(152.163.225.10) via SMTP by smtp03.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA.MaqII; Thu May 4 17:56:23 2000 Received: from RCruz9146@aol.com by imo20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v26.7.) id u.60.2caf38f (5738) for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:29 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <60.2caf38f.2643763c@aol.com> Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:28 EDT Subject: Re: Strawberry Care To: laguy2@primenet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 104 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Is there any way to add acidity to the strawberry plants potting soil that I already planted in 8'' pots? I only used a potting soil that already had vermiculite in it. Right now the plants a surviving but aren't putting out very much fruit. Again any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90-- From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:40:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:40:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Protecting Strawberries I would suggest floating row cover, since it is probably an issue of the early 'birds' getting to your bounty. You can order a copy of our strawberry publication with instructions at the following website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits You might also check the reference section of your public library, #635, to see if this isn't carried in a notebook containing all our home horticulture publications. Linda Guy Master Gardener pbbake@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I've added strawberries to my garden this year and have incountered a problem. The first big berries showed up and just as they were about ripe they got eaten, apparently by birds? Whats the solution? I know I will soon need a sun shade of some kind. Can I kind of cage in the plants to solve both roblems? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:43:40 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:43:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Madagascar Palms See my recent response to similar questions at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001319.html http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001321.html Rot is the most suspect reason. Linda Guy Master Gardener mlperki@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 15 yr old Madagascar palm has lost all it's leaves, no signs of new ones. What's wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 04 May 2000 20:46:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:46:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Insects on Cauliflower Permit me to introduce you to the Timely Tips section of our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm There is often a discussion of the pest commonly troubling a yard during the month in question. I hope this helps you since I am unable to diagnose your problem from your brief description. Linda Guy Master Gardener klmihocko@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted cauliflower this year for the first time. It looks like it has some bugs under the head , how do I get these off for cooking or is it ruined? > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 05 May 2000 07:09:50 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 07:09:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Planting Problems I would not suggest using horse manure unless it has already been well composted. Even then, I would leave the pots unplanted for a few weeks. It will continue to compost in your soil mix and take up the nitrogen that would otherwise be available to the plants. In a flower or vegetable bed, for example, we would amend the soil with organic matter and, even if composted, we would let the ground be fallow about 2 weeks before planting. Our standard recommendation for container soil mix is 1/3 high quality potting soil, 1/3 peat or other organic [but well composted] material, and 1/3 pumice or vermiculite for superior drainage. I prefer the pumice because, over time, the vermiculite floats to the surface of the pot. If you can do this, take away all the saucers/trays and allow the water to run through. You should never let the water be reabsorbed into the root ball, because this causes salt injury, particularly if you fertilize regularly. All runoff should be tossed. It sounds to me as if there is a possibility that you are overwatering the plants. Use a probe or just stick your finger in to see how moist things are in the pot. If you noticed that the plants had no roots after they died, then overwatering is a significant part of the problem. I am not familiar with Miracle Gro but it sounds to me as if you may be overfertilizing. Our container plant specialist uses a very weak solution twice a month, I believe. Sunlight sounds good, as do the size of the pots which diameter should be 1/3 the height of the plant measured from top to soil line. I assume that the sun the pots are getting are early am into the afternoon with some relief in the worst heat of the day. Hope this gets you growing! Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Fri, 05 May 2000 09:07:01 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 09:07:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page You will probably not get seed from an Octopus agave, they only occasionally set good seed. But you will get countless numbers of tiny plantlets, known as bulbils, all up and down the stalk. They are probably very tiny right now, but when they are about 2-4 inches long, take them off, put them in sand or good potting soil, they can be very crowded if you like, keep them reasonably moist, int he shade, and in a very short timy they will make roots. After they each have a good root system they can be individually potted and should grow quickly . Good luck, Mary Irish From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri, 5 May 2000 07:24:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:24:55 -0700 (MST) From: nativenursery@redrivernet.com nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can anyone tell me what the lacewing bug is that I am finding on Brittlebush and Sunflowers right now. It is small (not much larger than an aphid) and flat with light colored lacy wings and a black body. There are tons of them and they bite people if disturbed. They do seem to do damage. I know I read somewhere about an insect that was common on Brittlebush, but I can't find the reference. Thanks. Jennifer From lydonmcnick@aol.com Thu, 4 May 2000 17:36:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:36:25 -0700 (MST) From: lydonmcnick@aol.com lydonmcnick@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring and summer, I had many dusty millers in my garden. They seemed to survive the winter, however, the foliage looks a bit wilted , etc. With the warmer weather, will this perk up, or should I just remove them from the yard, and start over? From bvictoreen@home.com Fri, 5 May 2000 07:46:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:46:21 -0700 (MST) From: bvictoreen@home.com bvictoreen@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of our olive trees is yellowing and has very little new growth. It just looks unhealthy. It is a very large tree and has always been beautiful. What should we do? From rjezeski@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:37 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. bush morning glory and green clove sage. when you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush thank you and keep up the good work From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 14:53:32 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 14:53:32 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Olive tree leaves yellowing Yellow leaves on any plant can be caused by improper irrigation as well as other causes. Please give me more info and I'll try to help you. How much and how often are you watering? Are the leaves the same color as on the other olive trees and are the leaves cupped? Has there been any construction nearby or any chemicals applied? Is there grass near the trees and have you applied weed and feed? Have the leaves turned brown and are they hanging onto the tree? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 16:49:34 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 16:49:34 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing turf This website will provide you with lots of info on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From popart3@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 13:10:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 13:10:19 -0700 (MST) From: popart3@aol.com popart3@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a narrow area alongside an east-facing front walkway in which we have geraniums presently growing. We want to replace the geraniums with a flowering, relatively low-growing plant. We were told at our local nursery that Coreopsis might be an appropriate plant to use. The area gets slightly more than half-day sun during the summer. Do you think Coreopsis would be a good choice? From lsimms@asu.edu Fri, 05 May 2000 11:25:47 -0700 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 11:25:47 -0700 From: Laura Simms lsimms@asu.edu Subject: [AG] RE: SW Landscaping Ideas This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping http://www.amwua.org/ Of course the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants of the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/cgi-bin/viewCatPage.pl?sale=&catPage=/index2.html Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms laurasimms@go.com --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="lsimms.vcf" Content-description: Card for Laura Simms Content-disposition: attachment; filename="lsimms.vcf" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit begin:vcard n:Simms;Laura tel;fax:480/965-2519 tel;work:480/965-9119 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:Arizona State University, Biology adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:lsimms@asu.edu title:Accountant Associate x-mozilla-cpt:;-5072 fn:Laura Simms end:vcard --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA)-- From PatBern7@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 15:06:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 15:06:21 -0700 (MST) From: PatBern7@aol.com PatBern7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tangelo tree had a lot of bloosoms, but now I don't see any fruit that has formed. Also our grapefruit tree had very few bloosoms and I only see one or two fruit. Both trees were planted 2-1/2 years ago. We used a liquid fertilizer (miracle-gro) on the trees. All of our neighbors have a lot of fruit on their trees, even one that was only planted last summer. Before we used a citrus fertilizer, but decided to use miracle-gro when my neighbor used it last year, and had such great results with their fruit. What do you think is the problem? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:23 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:23 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] American Hibiscus Society Hi, The American Hibiscus Society has a website and also a place to ask questions. You might try WWW.trop-hibiscus.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, donnvelma@dellnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time From: donnvelma@dellnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Re: Hibiscus plant. Some of the leaves are turning yellow. Several weeks ago Muracid was applied per label instructions. Also just how much water and sunlight does this plant need? Thank you. Velma Steinman >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:28 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:28 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Wind and watering lawns Hi, My suggestion would be to change the method you are using to water. Try a system that is low to the ground so that it can not be blown by the wind. Some people here put a mound of dirt around the edge of there lawn and flood irrigate. I'd hand water if I had to, picking the time of day when the wind is normally light. I use sod, not seed and find it much easier. I'm not sure if this is a new lawn being grown from seed or plugs etc. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, Clystag@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time From: Clystag@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We recently moved to Bullhead City Az. We are trying to cultivate a lawn using fescue. The problem is the winds. We have ample water, but the winds direct the spray away from the lawn. Is there any soil amendmends you are aware of that would hold moisture in the ground, so if a day goes by without water the area doesn't die? I once saw an additive that was like little jelly drops that would expand when moistened and hold water. It was quite expensive and intended for potted plants. It would be a hit in this area if if could be used in larger quantities for landscaping. Any help would be appreciated. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:26 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:26 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak Bush Hello, I didn't find anything called Oak Bush in my resources. My suggestion would be to take a grub hoe or some such tool and go after the roots. By reposting your question maybe someone else will respond with other ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction In a message dated 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, larued@mohaveaz.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time From: larued@mohaveaz.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Please tell me how to control oak brush. I have poisoned it and it continues to come back. I have cut it off to ground level and it returns. How many years will the roots live if I keep it cut off at ground level? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:27 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:27 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: eppiphyllum cacti scale Hi Rosalyn, I'm not a cactus person but it sound to me more like sun scald then any kind of scale. If it is it is the plants natural way of protecting itself when it was sun burned. You probably have a county extension office that could help you more. I will post your question on the arid_gardener board. (Located in Maricopa County of AZ) We have knowledgeable people subscribed to our board. One of them might be able to give you a better answer but I still think your own county extension office is your best bet. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, muts@bellsouth.net writes: << Subj: eppiphyllum cacti scale Date: 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time From: muts@bellsouth.net (Rosalyn Simmons) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com How do you get something that looks like scale off eppis? It will peel off like a scab and is a beige color.We have no info on any chemicals we could safely use on these plants . Any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Rosalyn Simmons, Charleston, S. C. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:25 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:25 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bee Problem Hello, Bee's are having a time as they have been attacked by some kind of mite. I don't believe you had any choice though when they took up residence in your house. When this happened to me I sealed places on the outside of my house where bees might gain access (after the hive was exterminated). When I raised bees we always waited until just after dark before moving a hive cause the bees are all home by dark. I imagine the bees you see flying around are those that were out when the bees were exterminated. I don't believe these few bees will survive without the hive for very long. I'd certainly try to seal places on the outside of my house so this cannot occur again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, tsozuna@goodnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time From: tsozuna@goodnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This past Friday we had to exterminate a bee colony (professionally) from our patio. It was estimated that there were approx. 1500-2500 bees which were within the framing of the house. They used PT 565 XLO (Pyrethrin) and Residual Pest Dust (5% Sevin). To say the least, I am feeling very guilty that some other method of removal could not be done -- I had thought that there was a shortage of bees. My question: Is there a less "violent" way to remove bees (no visible hive was evident unless it was within the framing of the house)? We notice that a small number of bees continue to congregate in the same area and I don't want to spray them with Raid or call the AAA Africanized Bee Removal Specialists again. I do realize that they may be Africanized -- per AAA ABRS, Honey Bees make their hives in May -- but that does nothing to appease my feelings of guilt. Thank you! Theresa From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:24 EDT Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:24 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] saguaros and woodpeckers Hi, I hope someone has already answered your question but just in case let me say that this is normal. The saguaro will produce a wall around the hole to protect itself. Other birds may also use the holes made by woodpeckers for nesting. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, mike@advanced-water.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time From: mike@advanced-water.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener do woodpeckers normally nest in saguaros? or are their holes made to access insects within? i have three pairs of woodpeckers (three species) pecking large holes in one of the giant saguaros on my property in Scottsdale, I am concerned that this may indicate an infestation requiring treatment to save this plant. >> From cnations@earthlink.net Fri, 5 May 2000 19:33:31 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:33:31 -0700 (MST) From: cnations@earthlink.net cnations@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My female African Sumac (approx 8-10" dia) is radically loosing it's leaves and turning yellow. I fertilized with tree stakes a couple of months ago and have deep watered with no improvement. The big male Sumac (approx 18" dia) 60 feet away is doing fine. Any suggestions.... it really looks bad. From itidon@att.worldnet.net Sat, 6 May 2000 11:48:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 11:48:29 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@att.worldnet.net itidon@att.worldnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet, of 3 to 4 foot plants are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the area where the leaves are off. There is no problem on peppers in the same area. Is this a problem or natural. If a problem, any suggestions to fix. Thanks From the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Sat, 6 May 2000 12:47:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 12:47:02 -0700 (MST) From: the_al_mighty@hotmail.com the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could anyone please explain to me how and when I have to prune a ficus benjamina ? Many thanks in advance. From curryy@nomadic.com Sat, 6 May 2000 15:23:28 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 15:23:28 -0700 (MST) From: curryy@nomadic.com curryy@nomadic.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have my tomato plants from last fall, they are in containers. While they have not produced much, they continue to grow. I have roma, cherry, sweet, celebrity, and patio varieties. I also have bell peppers. I placed a 70% shade cloth cover over the plants. Still, the leaves become brittle and dry, the bell peppers move from green to red while still the size of a half-dollar. My question, how can I assure continual harvest when the temps reach triple-digit, as of recent? And what can I provide the plants to enhance growth? The plants are on the northwest side, the only space available in our yard for the containers. Thank you for any input you can provide. From jranddeb@theriver.com Sat, 06 May 2000 15:57:40 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 15:57:40 -0700 From: Debbie jranddeb@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi: I just now found your address on the internet site. Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper. Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. Debbie Morris --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.
 
I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.
 
Debbie Morris
 --=====================_27800916==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 16:03:35 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:03:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Low Water Use Garden Plants You can find low water use garden plants at most nurseries and home centers. It might be helpful to get an idea of what you would like first. There are many excellent books on the subject and I will be happy to pass on a few to you. Some that I have in my personal library are: Low Water Use Plants for California and The Southwest, by Carol Schuler. The Low Water Flower Gardener by Eric A. Johnson and Scott Millard. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke. The Sunset Western Garden Book (this book contains a plant selection guide which helps you locate plants for particular needs, such as plants for special effects, special situations - including plants for arid gardens - and basic landscaping. You can find all of these books in most bookstores, many nurseries carry them as do many home centers. You may be able to find copies at your local library branch. Having an idea of what plants you might be interested in planting will make your shopping trip a lot easier. The Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum are excellent sources for plants that grow well here in the low desert. They both have a small plant shop and they also hold terrific plant sales twice a year, in the fall and the spring. They both just had their spring sales the end of March to the beginning of April. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener smnoel@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > location to purchase low water garden plants > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 16:20:57 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:20:57 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Aerating Turfgrass Paul: I found an article entitled, Turfgrass Dethatching and Aeration For Low Elevation Turfs, written by David M. Kopen, University of Arizona. It is publication number MC77 and you should be able to get a copy from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. The article speaks mostly of Dethatching but on the 2nd page there is a paragraph and a half on aeration. Here is what it says: "Core cultivation (aerification) can be used to minimize thatch accumulation, to modify its physical characteristics, and to remove certain amounts of thatch. Core cultivation is not as effective as power raking in removing thatch debris, but it is less injurious and disruptive. Soil cores are removed during the cultivation process. These cores can be allowed to breakdown and redistribute soil throughout the thatch. The soil modifies the physical structure of the thatch, making it a better growing medium. Soil incorporation also enhances thatch breakdown by improving physical properties of thatch and introducing microorganisms. Soil cultivation should be done once a year during the vigorous growing season for bermudagrass to minimize thatch accumulation. Most turfgrasses growing on heavy clay or highly disturbed soils require annual cultiviation to restrict thatch buildup. Core cultivation is not a substitute for dethatching! Core cultivation allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate the soil. This is especially important if soils are compacted. Better turf growth results from aerification due to the increased root growth which follows soil cultivation. Aerification can be done once a year on home lawn and commercial turfs when the turf is actively growing. Do not attempt to core cultivate if the soil is very dry, or poor penetration will result". I hope this provides you with the information you were seeking. Sue Bass Master Gardener Retiredplc@aol.com wrote: > Good Morning, > > Have searched the Master Gardner site and find nothing relative to aerating. > > At our Homeowners Association, we are thinking about aerating the property > ($1350) to improve our Bermuda grass this summer. Some areas just seem to > have a problem. > > Comments please. > > Paul From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 6 May 2000 19:30:22 EDT Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 19:30:22 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus not bearing fruit Citrus normally do not bear fruit until they have been planted 4 to 5 years, so it is not unusual for your trees not to be bearing fruit yet. The newly planted trees that you mentioned with fruit will probably drop most or all of it before the year is finished. It is natures way of protecting the tree when it is not ready to bear fruit. As for the fertilizer, I would recommend that you go back to the citrus fertilizer, it has the nutrients that citrus need in this area. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin titled "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden" available for $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or you can make a copy at your local library. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 17:12:37 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:12:37 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Bush Morning Glory and Green Cloud Sage Pruning of the Green Cloud Sage is really done to maintain a shape that you prefer so it is generally pruned whenever maintenance appears to be needed. The shrub, if left alone, can grow to a height and width of about 6' x 6' with a nicely rounded habit. My sources say that this plant responds well to pruning and shaping which is why you rarely see an unpruned speciman. It can be pruned as a hedge or screen. I have this shrub in my yard and I leave it in a more natural form, however I prune the height when necessary so as not to obscure my front windows. Pruning it does not necessarily cause it to grow larger. As for watering, deep watering once every few weeks in the summer is generally sufficient. While the plant is drought tolerant, extreme dryness will cause the plant to shed some leaves. You can use this a gauge to to increase frequency of watering. I've been successful with mine on a schedule of every 10 days on a drip for 2 hours at a time. This ensures the deep watering and flushes salts away from the roots. The Bush Morning Glory generally blooms through May so once blooming is finished it would be fine to prune it. Pruning this plant is usually done when it starts to get leggy and it can be pruned pretty severly to renew growth. I also have this plant and it is on the same watering schedule as the Green Cloud Sage and it has been doing fine for the past 5 years. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener jezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. > bush morning glory and green clove sage. when > you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. > > could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush > > thank you and keep up the good work > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 06 May 2000 17:53:46 -0700 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:53:46 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fwd: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe Terry: I didn't see that you had received a response to your question. If you have already, I apologize for any repeat information. You can contact the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office about two publications we have. One is pub. 8363, Mesquites in the Landscape and the other is pub. 8446, Palo Verdes in the Landscape. Both publications discuss species, landscape uses, soil, water, fertilization, pruning and problems, including mistletoe. Information on securing publications can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm As for the Phainopeplas, I don't have an answer for you, but I have contacted an acquaintance who is a member of the Maricopa Audubon Society. I have asked her if she can recommend someone who would be able to help you. I'll let you know when I get some information. If you are interested, they have a website which can be reached at: http://www.amug.org/~drowley/mas/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Lucy Bradley wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > Terry Carter > > >Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 21:24:00 -0700 > >From: Terry Carter > >Subject: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe > > > >I have volunteered to do our Home Owner Association > >Newsletter and wonder if you can help me with an article on > >Mesquite/Palo Verde Trees and the problem of mistletoe. > > > >Several of the homeowners in our association are very > >concerned about the number of trees that are dying from what > >appears to be an over abundance of mistletoe. Others are > >concerned about the well being of the Phainopelas. > > > >I would like to help both sides and maybe include tips on > >the proper care and maintenance of the two trees. > > > >Any information you might be able to provide would be > >greatly appreciated. > > > >Thank you. > > > >Terry Carter > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Sat, 6 May 2000 23:43:21 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 23:43:21 -0700 (MST) From: mhills_sro@msn.com mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page RE: Peach Tree problems A friend in Ahwatukee, Arizona stumped me this April with a problem on her Red Haven Peach Tree. Thought I'd try posting this question to see if any of you have ideas for her to try. This is her second peach tree in 3 years to go down this same road. The other tree is about 50 feet away from this one, was a different variety and ended up dying completely after 2 years of wasting away. The second tree is about 7 years old, with a 7-8 inch diameter trunk and is about 18 feet tall. Has been an excellent yielder in past - last good harvest was 1998. The 1999 peach crop was very small on this tree, with many of the peaches mummifying on the tree. This spring, the tree barely came out of dormancy - all twigs and branches are pliable, but there are only about 50 leaves on the entire tree and maybe 5 blossoms. My friend Chere is most concerned about the balls of sap all over the main trunk, as well as any side branches of an inch or larger. Don't see cracks in the bark or anything similar, just lots of large hardened balls of sap that started showing up this past Fall. The tree is well cared for - good pruning practices, plenty of water, rich soil and well-fertilized. Chere is a University of Arizona Ag College major, but tree diseases are outside her specialty. Any ideas? If so, is it contagious and does she need to worry about other nearby trees - peach, plum, fig and ash? Mike Hills Phoenix, Arizona From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 10:15:10 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:15:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Phaenopepla and mistletoe Terry: I received a response from Laurie Nessel with the Maricopa Audubon Society. Laurie says: Phaenopepla are inextricably linked to mistletoe. They feed mainly on it, and also nest in the clumps of mistletoe . . . . The Phaenopepla will have to find new territory where there is still mistletoe. For more information, contact non-game branch. Try Troy Corman 789-3508 or Lori Averill Murray at 789-3577." Sue Bass Master Gardener From frankf@juno.com Sun, 7 May 2000 08:25:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 08:25:36 -0700 (MST) From: frankf@juno.com frankf@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 10:29:31 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:29:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Yellow leaves on hibiscus Frank: This is a very common question. For an answer I turned to the Tropical Hibiscus Home Page, found at: trop-hibiscus.com. Following is their answer to this question: Basically, for two reasons: 1. The leaves are old and the plant is discarding them. 2. The plant is under some stress. That stress may be from a too strong dosage of fertilizer it recently got or its soil has been too wet recently or some insecticide was applied improperly or its root system was disrupted or lighting conditions in a new location are very different from the old one. It could also be a disease. There are many possible reasons. Sometimes yellow leaves (from stress) are indicative of a problem and sometimes it simply indicates a temporary discomfort the plant is having. You can get a lot of good growing information at the above site. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener frankf@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 7 May 2000 14:57:57 EDT Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 14:57:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus yellow leaves Over or under watering will cause plant leaves to turn yellow. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From cernetic@uswest.net Sun, 7 May 2000 13:23:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 13:23:44 -0700 (MST) From: cernetic@uswest.net cernetic@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? Could someone also educate me ont the difference between bare root plants and regular plants. Do you know of any Web sites that give information on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 14:39:16 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:39:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie: I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline. Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225. They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents. There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population. You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing. Good luck. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > Hi: > I just now found your address on the internet site. Have > a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of > Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. > About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with > termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people > who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just > spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish > soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs > growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem > left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is > starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely > surface deep, but a few are deeper. > > Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this > saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. > > I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. > > Debbie Morris --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie:
I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline.  Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225.  They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents.

There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population.  You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm
You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing.

Good luck.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener

"Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.

I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.

Debbie Morris

--------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 14:52:34 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:52:34 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Sick plant - Banana yucca --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy: Have you received a response to your question? If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers. I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline. Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday. (480) 941-1225. Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > We are not entirely certain about what the plant in > question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't > see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish > green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground. > It is approximately 3 years old. I recall being told not > to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, > so that's OK. > > Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft > of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, > and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base > of the leaves inside the plant. What has happened, and is > there anything we could do to help save this plant? > > Judy Moler > Phoenix --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy:
Have you received a response to your question?  If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers.  I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline.  Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday.  (480) 941-1225.  Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem.

Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

We are not entirely certain about what the plant in question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground.  It is approximately 3 years old.  I recall being told not to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, so that's OK.

Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base of the leaves inside the plant.  What has happened, and is there anything we could do to help save this plant?

Judy Moler
Phoenix

--------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 15:39:35 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 15:39:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gerberas as house plants According to two sources I have, Gerbera Daisies can be grown indoors. Information found in the Sunset Western Garden Book states that as a house or greenhouse plant they should be grown in bright light with night temperatures of 60 degrees. They need good soil with excellent drainage. They bloom any time of year with peaks in early summer, late fall. My other source is the American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants. This book states that they can be grown in a soil-based potting mix in bright filtered light. During the growing season, water freely and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstiegrl20@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to keep gerbera daisies as indoor plants, if so how can I keep them blooming? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From obeles@gateway.net Sun, 7 May 2000 16:00:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:00:32 -0700 From: obeles obeles@gateway.net Subject: [AG] White Spots This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly white spots on the leaves of my = oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato plants. What's = causing it -- watering practices, pests? I've looked closely at the = plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any insects, such as = white flies or aphids. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks for = your help. Linda Obele ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly = white spots on=20 the leaves of my oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato=20 plants.  What's causing it -- watering practices, pests?  I've = looked=20 closely at the plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any = insects, such=20 as white flies or aphids.  Has anyone else experienced this?  = Thanks=20 for your help.
 
Linda Obele
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 16:56:30 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 16:56:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Summer flowers for containers We have a very good publication and plant table that you can view on line. You can find it by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers The table will give you lists of flower and bedding plants, their planting and flowering times, their lighting and watering needs and their difficulty to grow among other information. I think it will help you with making choices for your containers. Sue Bass Master Gardener wclipper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What type of flowers besides vinca grow well in the summer? They would be container plants. Some would be in containers facing east and some would be in patio area shaded by afternoon sun. Your response would be most appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Sun, 7 May 2000 16:49:01 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:49:01 -0700 (MST) From: tessier.g@worldnet.att.net tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hello... i live in central florida. what is the best way to grow a sago palm? From Ronan.1931@aol.com Sun, 7 May 2000 16:37:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:37:59 -0700 (MST) From: Ronan.1931@aol.com Ronan.1931@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a queen palm and its leaves are hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 17:09:32 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:09:32 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Queen Palm problem We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ronan.1931@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a queen palm and its leaves are > hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:17 -0700 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm - Florida The Sago Palm is a small, compact plant that is actually not a true palm, but a cycad. The plant is slow growing, producing new leaves only once a year. The Sago Palm makes an excellent tub or planter subject. It is effective when combined with other tropical and subtropical plants. It is evergreen, grows to a height of 6-10'. It requires part to full shade. Its spread is 3-5'. It requires good quality garden soil and regular irrigation encourages best growth and appearance. The plants may sunburn with full to reflected sun and heat, especially when grown as container plants. For information specific to your part of the country, I would suggest you contact your local County Cooperative Extension Office. You can find them in the phone book or check out the following web site where you can locate the office in your county: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/www/extension/index.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener tessier.g@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > hello... i live in central florida. > what is the best way to grow a sago palm? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From LauraSimms@go.com Mon, 08 May 2000 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) It does not look like this message posted correctly on the list, so I'll try it again. This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how tolandscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping: http://www.amwua.org/. Of course, the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants on the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms Average Gardener laurasimms@go.com ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From raguisto@uswest.net Mon, 8 May 2000 09:01:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:01:18 -0700 (MST) From: raguisto@uswest.net raguisto@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed bulbs can be planted, How?? Thank you very much. From itidon@worldnet.att.net Mon, 8 May 2000 08:54:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 08:54:18 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@worldnet.att.net itidon@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 2 days ago I sent the following E-mail and misstakenly had a error in my address (att and worldnet were reversed). Sorry. On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From ultratica@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 14:21:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 14:21:09 -0700 (MST) From: ultratica@aol.com ultratica@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I visited Phoenix recently and noticed a lot of landscaping was done using a small rock that resembles lava rock, could you tell me what it is called, and do you think that this technique could be used here in Florida where I live?, thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 18:55:38 EDT Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 18:55:38 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rose dying Nurse 303, If your rose planted in January has not shown any growth or doesn't have green leaves it is time to dig it up. The location is not the best, the rose should have at least 5 hours of sunshine and preferably morning sun. It is not unusual for bareroot roses to fail to get started. I've planted several hundred roses and I would guess that 10% didn't make it. If the canes have dried out too much at planting time or they were not watered properly than the chances of survival are not good. I'm enclosing an article on Planting Roses that I had published in the Republic recently. Hope it is helpful. You might want to consider joining one of the rose societies in the valley, If you live in the east valley come join the Mesa East Valley Rose Society which meets on the 2nd Thursday of each month at the Student Center at Mesa Community College at 7.00 PM And while there you can stop to see the over 3000 rose bush garden planted by our rose society. Good luck Rod December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian. From madasmith@aol.com Mon, 8 May 2000 15:40:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 15:40:12 -0700 (MST) From: madasmith@aol.com madasmith@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I prune my Fairy duster alittle right now? When can I cut it way back? I would like to cut it back to the ground, can I cut it that much? From keithb@sisna.com Mon, 8 May 2000 17:59:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 17:59:02 -0700 (MST) From: keithb@sisna.com keithb@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted a peach tree 2-years ago, the first year it had fruit, the second year if froze and had no fruit, this year it looked real good but when the blossoms started to come out they would just turn brown and fall off before completely opening up? What can I do to help my peach tree? Thank You From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 08:16:24 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:16:24 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] When to harvest Garlic >From you description, I assume you have the top-setting hard neck type. The bulbs may be slightly larger if the scape is removed but will be harder when cured and store better if left intact. The number of leaves reflects the number of wrappers around the bulb. A dry leaf indicates that wrapper is either dying off or has already died off. The recommendation is to harvest when there are still a few green leaves. If you wait until all of the leaves have died off, the wrappers may come off, water and fungi may already have entered the bulb between the cloves, and they won't store as well. When harvesting with green leaves with the wrappers still firmly covering the bulb, you need to pay more attention to curing to prevent molds and fungus after harvesting. This from my personal experience - others have different opinions. There does not appear to be a consensus so I recommend experimenting both ways with the same crop to see what works best for you. The size of the garlic bulb is related to the size of the seed clove and to the size of the bulb the clove came from. For this reason I have never tried growing from the bulbils from the top of the scape but always select the seed clove from the bulbs. Bulbils from other top setting alliums (e.g., Egyptian onions and walking onions) produce plants so I assume the garlic bulbils would as well, but I suspect you might get rounds instead of bulbs with cloves. Olin Miller ---- Original Message ----- From: > I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should > be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started > to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of > a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should > I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar > to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed > bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed > bulbs can be planted, How?? From Gregcm2@aol.com Tue, 9 May 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 08:45:31 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:45:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Raspberries and Bare Root Plants Raspberries are not adapted to the desert climate around Phoenix. If you want to try it anyway (as I did), choose a variety with the lowest chill requirement. There some low chill black berry types which would be a better choice. Deciduous trees and shrubs are usually available as bare root stock. They are dug up when the plant is dormant. The soil is removed from the roots, then the plant roots are packed in damp saw dust (usually) for shipment. Around Phoenix, the plant should be planted in late winter to establish the roots before it breaks dormancy, through January to about mid February. "Regular" plants are grown in containers or dug up from their growing area with the root ball intact and placed in containers or wrapped in burlap. Bare root plants which did not sell during the normal planting season are often available later in containers. In theory, you could plant container plants at any time but the hot summer months are very stressful to non-desert type plants so it's best to wait until October. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? > Could someone also educate me ont the difference > between bare root plants and regular plants. > Do you know of any Web sites that give information > on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? > My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. > I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomato Blossom End Rot There is an abundance of calcium available in our desert soil. If blossom end rot is the only problem, it more likely to be caused by a combination of drought and then drowning the plant. Before adding calcium, be certain to establish regular watering practices. Calcium may be added as calcium sulfate supplied in agricultural/horticultural gypsum. See also http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm for more information about this problem. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Mon, 8 May 2000 21:28:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 21:28:29 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Pomagranate tree in my backyard. We planted it a year ago. The first fruit was very poor, very dry, quite frankly it was no good to eat. The tree is now in it's 2nd blooming and fruit is set on the tree. What should I be doing to assure good fruit this season. The tree was in bloom when we purchased it & it was in a 5 gal.container. So was fairly good size. From NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:51 -0700 (MST) From: NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My verbena is drying out. It is getting enough water, but the plants seem to have a short life span....1 - 2 seasons. They have Western exposure, good drainage....any suggestions? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:02 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 10:44:31 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:44:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Lower Tomato Leaves Dying Message is resent to change subject line Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From cmaldo@uswest.net Tue, 9 May 2000 14:34:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 14:34:56 -0700 (MST) From: cmaldo@uswest.net cmaldo@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought a 6 station Champion irrigation watering timer and was wondering how to set it for watering. My grass has sprinklers in the front and back. Should I water every other day for 10 min. I have Qween palms and dessert shrubs on drip in the front and back. Should they be every 3rd day for one hour? They are both in front and back. I have shade trees, citrus, and peach trees in back on flood irrigation, should they be watered every 14 days. I wasn't sure. Could you tell me if my set up is accurate or should I water more or less? Thank you. Cindy From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 9 May 2000 19:29:36 EDT Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:29:36 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation Cindy, If you have flood irrigation in part of your yard, it should be very adequate for your trees and shrubs unless you happen to be growing roses or some other non native plants that must be watered more often than every two weeks. Your drip irrigated trees should be deep watered to a depth in excess of three feet which you won't do in one hour. I suggest that you check out these websites on irrigation where your questions will be answered. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sasutton@ktc.com Tue, 9 May 2000 20:13:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 20:13:41 -0700 (MST) From: sasutton@ktc.com sasutton@ktc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue, 9 May 2000 21:33:59 -0700 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Gopher Tunnels in Root Ares Gopher tunnels in the watering basin can drain water away from the roots of a plant and cause it to decline. Plugging the holes (may be difficult) should help. I have a mature grapefruit tree which had the problem several years ago. The leaves were dying and it did not appear to be healthy. Plugging the holes before irrigating didn't work - the water would find a way to drain away through the tunnels. I finally converted to drip irrigation with 1 gph emitters spaced at 1 foot on a half-inch drip line at the canopy (a 15 foot dia canopy required 52 emitters). The tree recovered, I sometimes still have the gopher hole problem, but with drip irrigation the water soaks in and doesn't drain away. So, if you can't eliminate the gophers and plug the tunnels, you might consider converting to drip irrigation scaled to the needs of the specific plant. Olin Miller .---- Original Message ----- From: > Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. > Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Wed, 10 May 2000 08:31:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 08:31:15 -0700 (MST) From: Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have an older grapefruit tree (probably 45 years old) It is sort of dying from the top with the bark either peeling off dry or else a sort of white canker developing in large areas on the bark. Probably this is a sign that the tree is just getting too old and will die. We have pruned off quite a bit but most of the top of the tree is gone. Is there anything to do or should one just cut out the tree and start over. We have an irrigated lot in Tempe. Thanks From jbbell310@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 10:10:40 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:10:40 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page there is a white fuzzy looking substance on the undersides of stems on my bower vine (pandorea jasminoides) also on celosia plants. What do I do? These are new plants. From jbbell310@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:35 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our new puppy chewed most of the bark off of a two year old orange tree, one major branch has died. will the entire tree die? can I paint over this? From tderieg@goodnet.com Wed, 10 May 2000 12:26:35 -0700 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 12:26:35 -0700 From: Tom Derieg tderieg@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] fertilizer for hibiscus This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0-- From kwwa@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) From: kwwa@aol.com kwwa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. From scorpion10310@juno.com Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:15 -0700 (MST) From: scorpion10310@juno.com scorpion10310@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my shamel ash tree leaves keep blowing/shedding when the winds blows? Also can the seeds from tree be prevented from growing? Thanks From g.ross@mindspring.com Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) From: g.ross@mindspring.com g.ross@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several plant limbs I have noticed rows of small white deposits that could be eggs. They are easily rubbed off. Any idea what it may be? I also have planted a Hong Kong Orchard tree and something is eating sizeable holes in the leaves. I have inspected the tree for any sign of insects and cannot find a thing. The same thing is happening with a Crepe Myrtle. Any idea what to look for? or how to deal with these problems? From Kamerakaye@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 17:51:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: Kamerakaye@aol.com Kamerakaye@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? From dtharris2@cs.com Wed, 10 May 2000 17:25:19 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:25:19 -0700 (MST) From: dtharris2@cs.com dtharris2@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a gardenia that until recently has looked very nice. Most of the white flowers look brown and diseased. I am watering them plenty. I also have a ficus tree about 5 feet tall. The problem is the trunk tapers down to such a small diameter the the top foot and a half can't hold itself up. Should I top the tree? Thank you in advance for your help. From azneet@aol.com Wed, 10 May 2000 21:51:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 21:51:42 -0700 (MST) From: azneet@aol.com azneet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pyracanthia bush that has white fuzzy stuff on it. It looks like similar to cotton. I have sprayed with water, which washes some of it away, but it is never completely gone. Do you know if this is a fungus? If so how do I get rid of it? Also, how do I care for a star-jasmine? Thanks for your response. From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Wed, 10 May 2000 22:49:07 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:49:07 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Pomegranate tree. The fruit on it is very dry inside/pulpy & not good to eat. What do I need to do to obtain good fruit on this tree. Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Wed, 10 May 2000 22:44:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:44:41 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a new house in Peoria and will be moving in about the end of July. The rear yard is about 65 feet wide by 40 feet deep. I want to find a book or web site devoted to plans or design ideas to guide me in preparing a desert theme, simple back yard area. I checked the Chandler public library but they didn't have what I'm looking for. I don't know if anyone does. I would appreciate any help you can give me. I will have to start the whole project from scratch. From carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Thu, 11 May 2000 06:51:25 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:51:25 -0700 (MST) From: carla.manley@worldnet.att.net carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks From David.W.Norton@aexp.com Thu, 11 May 2000 06:14:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:14:47 -0700 (MST) From: David.W.Norton@aexp.com David.W.Norton@aexp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water should I give to a sego palm? It gets direct sun until early afternoon. Leaves are yellowing. But I have new growth. They have been planted for about a month. Also, should I remove the dead flowers from an african daisy? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:19:25 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:19:25 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Web Worms We just learned about these yesterday morning from Ag Agent Terry Mikel at the Monthly Update for Master Gardeners. We're not sure why there are more of these this year than most, but this cousin of the tent caterpillar has been noted valley-wide and in particular Terry is receiving worried calls from nurseries who anticipate trouble selling impacted trees in the short term. [It's hard for them to tell a customer 'trust me'.] These web worms target the palos [breas and verdes] and old/new world acacias [excl. Australian]. If you have these, check them out, too. HOWEVER, this is strictly cosmetic damage, and Terry assures us that the branches will eventually leaf out, so do not prune them away. Web worms will focus on the tender new ends at the terminals, so unless the tree is very young and you fear that the infestation will have a dramatic impact, you have several options. Leave the tree alone. Spray well with water to hose them off. Use Bt [bacillus thuringiensis] which is the traditional organic approach to any caterpillar. Or use Sevin. Terry notes that the best time to spray is after sundown, since these are nocturnal critters. Avoid the temptation to overwater these native trees. You'll just produce more luxuriant and voluminous vegetation to have to prune. Take heart in knowing it is nothing that you did, that you are not alone! Linda Guy Master Gardener Kamerakaye@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 11 May 2000 07:34:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:34:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Carla: I found this site on the web pertaining to Orchids. There is a frequently asked questions section as well as a section on "Where to Grow", if you choose "in the home" it appears that it will provide you with all the information you need. Visit http://orchidweb.org/ Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener carla.manley@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:41:02 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:41:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale Unfortunately, all our College of Ag materials suggest that little can be done to contain your problem. I've read that the females do not need the males to reproduce. As an example, I enclose a link to the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html The scale insect attaches itself to grass roots and siphons off water and nutrients. The plant responds by forming a cyst or gall around the insect, but will still suffer, brown up and die. As you have experienced, small infestations grow larger quite quickly. Evidently, the immature insect overwinters within these cysts and emerge in May to find new feeding sites. [This is only a warm season turf problem.] In reviewing the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, it suggests removing and disposing of affected sod before it spreads too far. You may be beyond this point. Watering in beneficial nematodes during April and May may provide some control if they can attack the scale insects when they emerge from the cysts. Perhaps another list member has something up his/her sleeve to help you. Linda Guy Master Gardener kwwa@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nfk54401@home.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:18 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:18 -0700 From: Norma Kafer nfk54401@home.com Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Sue, The Orchid Society of Arizona has a web site at http://welcome.to/orchidsocietyaz We meet the first Thursday at 7:00 at the Valley Garden Center 1809 N. 15th Ave. We have a grower on call every month plus all the officers are on line. Most of the members are new growers and we gear our meetings to them. Our program this month was potting orchid seedlings which were donated and no cost to the participant. If you need more information, please get in touch with me. Thanks. Norma Kafer Master Gardener Sue Bass wrote: > > arid_gardener > Carla: > I found this site on the web pertaining to Orchids. There is a frequently asked questions section as > well as a section on "Where to Grow", if you choose "in the home" it appears that it will provide you > with all the information you need. Visit http://orchidweb.org/ > > Good Luck! > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > carla.manley@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:52:36 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:52:36 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Insect IDs The latter is probably a leaf-cutter bee. No controls are recommended for this native beneficial insect which is a useful pollinator. You can easily identify its damage, which are pieces of leaf taken for its nest, by the very precise circular/ovoid holes in the foliage. It's as if someone had taken scissors to your plants! They prefer to snack on roses, but are known to use any plant with a firm, shiny leaf. As to the white film/egg deposits, could you provide a bit more detail? In the meantime, here's a link to the Entomology section of the Master Gardener Manual to assist you. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/index.html Linda Guy Master Gardener g.ross@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > On several plant limbs I have noticed rows of small white deposits that could be eggs. They are easily rubbed off. Any idea what it may be? > I also have planted a Hong Kong Orchard tree and something is eating sizeable holes in the leaves. I have inspected the tree for any sign of insects and cannot find a thing. The same thing is happening with a Crepe Myrtle. Any idea what to look for? or how to deal with these problems? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:02:38 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:02:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Candle Cactus Yellowing I believe your question has been around for a while because most of us volunteering our time to answer these questions are only somewhat conversant in cactus/succulent cultivation. So I'd like to suggest that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden, whose specialty this is, at their hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225. However, I'd be willing to bet that the problem is twofold: overwatering and use of highly chlorinated water, both from the pool. You may need to move your plant, which may also make sense from a human safety standpoint! If you do so, remember to replant it in its original orientation to avoid sunscalding. Sorry for our much delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener d_sharpe60@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am growing a candle cactus (trichocereus pachanoi) next to my swimming pool and it is not doing well. It is no longer green but yellowing. Could the chlorine fumes from the pool be hurting the cactus? Should I move it to the front yard? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:08:44 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:08:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigating Native Trees The latest issue [March/April] of our Horticultural Communicator has a GREAT table that addresses the yearround needs of any plant. If you are interested in ordering a copy, see http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm In short, desert-adapted species should be watered to a depth of 3-4 feet every three weeks or so in the summer. Because you are referring to box trees, I'm assuming that you have recently planted them. Any newly planted tree, even adapted ones, may need supplemental water to be established in their first summer. You'll know if you're overwatering by the amount of plant material you'll be pruning throughout the summer! The more water, the more vegatative growth. Linda Guy Master Gardener kkope@valleycrest.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How many gallons of water a day is required for a Desert species 24" box tree in the summer? Also how many gallons of water a day is required for a Desert species 48" box tree in the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:40:03 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:40:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Sago Palm Yellowing; Deadheading African Daisies In our zone, and in my personal experience, the sago likes much more shade than you are providing it now. [Mine is in full shade.] You may need to move it to a place that is closer to full shade, avoiding even reflected sunlight and heat. Refer to our palm publication which is available online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf It needs regular watering, but if you have dense clay soil, be careful not to drown the roots. If you want your African Daisies to reseed for next year, and they can do so prolifically, do not remove the flower heads. Refer to our publication and accompanying table on flowers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Linda Guy Master Gardener David.W.Norton@aexp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How much water should I give to a sego palm? It gets direct sun until early afternoon. Leaves are yellowing. But I have new growth. They have been planted for about a month. > > Also, should I remove the dead flowers from an african daisy? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:48:33 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:48:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bur Clover Bur clover is a winter annual in bermuda lawns. From our Fact Sheet MC 51 on common urban weeds, there is not selective preemergent that will control it. You will need to apply an herbicide next winter before the plant blooms. The weed will begin to germinate again from October/November through March. If you still have some in your lawn, the best thing you can do is pull it now, to avoid having it set more seed for next year [although it may be too late for that]. The fact sheet lists a sample of brand names that will address this, like Ortho weed-b-gon lawn weed killer. A list of our publications is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener suecwil@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do I rid my yard of bermuda grass of burr clover? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 08:59:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:59:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Dry Fruit on Tangerine In reviewing an old citrus publication, it says that the Clementine or Algerian tangerine is highly frost-sensitive, and by this I am now referring to the fruit itself. It should be planted with other tangerine/tangelo varieties for cross-pollination. The fruit is often dry if it is left on the tree past minimum maturity [] or when budded on rough lemon rootstock. Fairchild, Fremont and Kinnow are also better producers when cross-pollinated. You may have a variety that tends to be alternate bearing [fewer fruits everyother year] like Dancy, Fairchild or Kinnow. If so, perhaps this is the leaner year for the fruits. I don't know that this necessarily means the fruit is less tasty or juicy, however. Our more recent publication on citrus varieties suggests that when you store mandarins/ tangerines, that you remove a portion of the stem as well. The skin of the fruit is so thin that a section of the peel may be removed, leading to dessication or decay, if you simply pull it off the tree. Check out our citrus pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Sorry for our much delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener raftwo@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have lot of fruit on my tangerine, it is not good, however because it is too dry. Do you have suggestions as to what the problem might be? > > Thanks, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:03:56 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:03:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rose Bush a Shrub? I believe it is, when it isn't a vine[climber or rambler]! But within the rosarian nomenclature, I notice that 'Shrub rose' refers to old fashioned favorites like moss, damask and cabbage roses. Others that I would consider shrubs [small 's'] are Floribundas, Polyanthas, Grandifloras, Hybrid Teas, and Miniatures. But then again, I'm not a rosarian! Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener prattaf@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know if a rose bush is considered a shrub. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:12:06 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:12:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rooting Nandina Cuttings I've never tried this before, and since you've nothing to lose, why not experiment? First take a cutting from healthy, vigorous plants. If you use softwood located near the terminal end of the branch, take about 4" [ you'll probably need more for support, given how wide some nandina branchess get]. Remove the leaves that will be in contact with rooting media , dip in a stimulant like Rootone and plant. If you use semi-hardwood or hardwood cuttings, the procedure is basically the same. Recommended rooting media is porous and sterile. Vermiculite, perlite or well-washed sand can be used. Or mix equal parts with highgrade potting soil. When watering, completely wet the media and pour off all excess in the tray to avoid salt injury. If a cutting discolors and shows signs of shriveling, it is probably decayed. Linda Guy Master Gardener leer@apex.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know if I would Have any luck trying to root a cutting from a Nandina plant. I am going to prune mine and wondered if it is a plant that would root from a cutting > Thank you, > Susan Lee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From gmastin@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 07:55:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:55:05 -0700 (MST) From: gmastin@primenet.com gmastin@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you "root" geranium cuttings. From brookcarey@earthlink.net Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:45 -0700 (MST) From: brookcarey@earthlink.net brookcarey@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I sprouted a lemon seed and it is growing well. When it matures, can a lemon tree from seed make fruit? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:13:49 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:13:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Willcox Water Supplies Your best bet is to contact your local county cooperative extension office which is listed in the blue government pages of the phone book; or check out our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/personnel/countymap.html Linda Guy Master Gardener philosofisher@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > dear sirs or madams, > i am looking to move out to wilcox, arizona and was wondering how hard it might be to obtain a decent supply of water for living and irrigation from a drilled well. > i am interested in looking at collection and storing options. > thank you for your consideration. > sincerely, > philosofisher > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Eliminating Tree Suckers I am not aware of any such product. Sucker production is usually a function of the trees' growth characteristics. If you have problems with this, you should research future tree plantings well to avoid using similar plant material. In the case of citrus, it is quite necessary to keep pruning the suckers from the rootstock to avoid the tree reverting to the rootstock itself. Linda Guy Master Gardener sbanbury@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there something I can paint or apply to my tree trunks to prevent suckers? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:27:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:27:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Geranium Stem Cutting Propogation Please refer to another response I just wrote 1 minute ago! It's at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001468.html We have a publication on Plant Propogation that you can order from instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants It's MC - 9 Propogate Plants at Home Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gmastin@primenet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do you "root" geranium cuttings. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:43:45 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:43:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Oleander Problems I'm having a tough time making an id for you, but know that your question has been around for a while so will offer the following suggestions. First check out the timely tips section of our website for April and May. There are many descriptions of commonly experienced plant problems, and perhaps you can answer your question. Check these out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Oleanders are susceptible to sooty canker, bacterial knot or gall and root rot, none of which look the way you've described. Spider mites can cause the yellowing, but there would be evidence of webbing. The best solution I can offer is to take a sample to one of our satellite offices, or the main office itself where our staff and volunteers will make every effort to identify your problem and tell you how to manage it. These addresses are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener ahammons@casabella-architects.com wrote: > arid_gardener > one of my oleanders has a salty-granule looking > residue on the leaves and then a yellow substance > on the shoot. > i cut it off the gross stuff, afraid it would > spread to the other plants. > it is 1 oleander of 7 planted about a year ago. > the others seem fine so far. > what's up with the gross stuff? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From jdgeram@aol.com Thu, 11 May 2000 09:47:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:47:18 -0700 (MST) From: jdgeram@aol.com jdgeram@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have recently purchased a new house and I am trying to figure out what kind on tree I have in my front yard. Are there any web sites I can go to that have ways of figuring it out? Thanks From gregoire@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu, 11 May 2000 09:48:52 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:48:52 -0700 From: Tod A. Gregoire gregoire@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Pepper Tree I've got a situation at home I can't figure out. I have a 5 year old California Pepper Tree in my back yard that has been growing leaps and bound every year with an awesome canope. However, I've been noticing leaf shed that started about late winter to early spring. The trunk seems to be thickening because bark continues to peal away. My concern is the lack of leaves and the amount of dead branches that continue to accumulate. The tree looks very unhealthy and is getting close to being bare. I have thought about the possibility of Texas Root Rot but the area I have it in is well drained. Also, I don't over water it. Even so, I can't rule out the rot. Is there an expert out there on this subject? Can you tell me if this sounds like the Rot and if so, is there a compound I can pour into the soil around the tree to kill the fungus? This tree needs help and so do I. Thanks for your input and information. Tod Gregoire Support Systems Analyst, Senior The University of Arizona College of Agriculture (520) 621-7197 From dean_ressler@mk.com Thu, 11 May 2000 14:19:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 14:19:26 -0700 (MST) From: dean_ressler@mk.com dean_ressler@mk.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are fruit trees the only trees that bloom with flowers? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 18:43:51 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:43:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gingko Blooms Have you tried your local cooperative extension office? They would be located in the county phone listings in the blue government section of the phone book. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County, AZ dpmbdriftmier@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a female Ginkgo tree which burst into maturity last year after 18 years as a lovely shade provider beside our deck. Is it possible to prevent this tree from blooming? It is quite tall but if we could spray it or do anything to deter the polination we would be pleased. We are in SE Wisconsin. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 18:52:27 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:52:27 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Artichokes My artichokes were producing in early March, have already gone to the marvelous blue-violet flower stage and are now drying out. So I wonder why yours have not. [I'm sure you realize that the part of the artichoke that is eaten is the flower bud.] Since this is essentially a thistle that dies back at this time of year, I usually leave mine in the ground through the summer and wait until early winter when the foliage begins to return. At that time I split the plants, giving them away because I have more than enough for a family of three and friends from two plants. Once producing, eight artichoke plants would stock your neighborhood and use an overwhelming amount of garden space! Are you sure you are growing artichokes? As to water, mine thrive even on neglect, as do other medicinal thistles I grow. As long as the soil is damp and the plants are happy, they get about the same amount of water as my Mediterranean herbs that hate to have their feet wet [rosemary, lavender, oregano, etc.] which is to say, not alot. Linda Guy Master Gardener chubbymomma@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have four great looking, and not yet fruit bearing artichoke plants that I would like to separate and make, say about 8 plants. > > an I separate them? > Also I live in Phoenix and I water them 1 time per week. Is that suffiient? > > Thanks!!! gail blade > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 18:57:56 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:57:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Propagating Bougainvillea A good discussion of stem cuttings is included in our publication MC-9 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants You can order it or check the reference section of your local library (call code 635). I wrote several similar answers today. See one at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001468.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pattyroo@ctaz.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, > > I have a question: > > Can you give me information on propagating my bougainvillea? > > Thank you, > > Patty > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:35 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale Your problem sounds suspiciously like pearl scale. I already answered a similar question today, and that answer is available in our archives at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001459.html Good luck. It's a tough problem. Linda Guy Master Gardener journies@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a lawn that consists of Bermuda and Rye. I have noticed something creeping in from the outer edges in spots which are not about a foot wide. They are flat (like bald) brown and dry. Can you suggest what it might be, and advise as to how I might get rid of it? I have fertalized recently, and I water for 15 minute periods, every other day. This is not happening under a tree, and it is not caused by dogs. Should I be applying Bermuda seed at this time? > > P.S. I just read my "sent" message, and at the bottom, it said "Sincerely, Lucy Bradley". Don't know who she is. My name is Joan Enright. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:50 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Honeysuckle Dying One of my colleagues refers to your problem as 'male dog disease'. You've diagnosed your problem, now the issue is keeping the dogs off the plant. A little red pepper spray [I use medicinal strength from the health food store] might have them look elsewhere! Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > we have three large honeysuckles planted at the end of our driveway. two are doing just great but the third one is dying very fast. i believe dogs are using it as a place to urinate on. > any suggestion. the plants are about 30 inches tall,fun sun during the day > > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:58 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:58 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Impact of Music on Plants This is not the type of question we normally answer for the home gardener, so we don't have any material to refer you to. Have you had any luck with web searches? Linda Guy Master Gardener rblack@fix.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Does music have any effect on how/how well plants grow? Do you have any study material on this? I am doing a science project. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:11:04 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:11:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Edging Bermuda Lawns This is what bermuda does naturally. You can raise the height of the flower bed edging, pull the bermuda out manually or use some herbicide product as it creeps over. The latter could cause a bit of bare patches at the perimeter, in both the lawn and the flower bed, but you need to measure the minor cosmetic impact against your ability to maintain a physical intervention practice. Linda Guy Master Gardener bertfransugar@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do I keep bermuda grass from creeping over into adjacent flower beds? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:15:32 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:15:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Annual Flowers for East Exposure. I agree with the coreopsis recommendation. For others, check out our flower publication and charts at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener popart3@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a narrow area alongside an east-facing > front walkway in which we have geraniums presently > growing. We want to replace the geraniums with > a flowering, relatively low-growing plant. We > were told at our local nursery that Coreopsis might > be an appropriate plant to use. The area gets > slightly more than half-day sun during the summer. > Do you think Coreopsis would be a good choice? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu, 11 May 2000 19:18:34 -0700 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:18:34 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --------------BDBA219DCCFFEA47A7031619 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie, Most of us volunteers on this server have specialties other than cactus and succulents. Could you call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, available M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225? They are experts in this area. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Debbie (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > Hi: > I just now found your address on the internet site. Have a question: > We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a > 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. About 2 years ago, it started getting > infested with termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people > who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just spray it down > really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told > us to clear away all shrubs growing around it. We did this, and the > termite problem left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is > starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface > deep, but a few are deeper. > > Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this saguaro, and it > would kill me if it died. Please respond. > > I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. > > Debbie Morris --------------BDBA219DCCFFEA47A7031619 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie,

Most of us volunteers on this server have specialties other than cactus and succulents. Could you call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, available M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225?
They are experts in this area.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

"Debbie (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote:

Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.

I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.

Debbie Morris

--------------BDBA219DCCFFEA47A7031619-- From dolsontree@hotmail.com Fri, 12 May 2000 03:06:54 -0700 Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 03:06:54 -0700 From: don olson dolsontree@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Web Worms i had the same problem last year at starr pass cassitas,almost all of my palo verdes were covered with web worms.i monitered the situation and didn't noticed any real damage,and with in a week or two, they were gone.the early bird got them!Don Olson The Groundskeeper ACLP F-090-2 Cert. Arborist WC-3377 Cert. Pest cont. 930077 ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda A. Guy To: Cc: Arid gardener server Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 7:19 AM Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Web Worms > arid_gardener > We just learned about these yesterday morning from Ag Agent Terry Mikel at the Monthly Update for Master Gardeners. We're not sure why there are more of these this year than most, but this cousin of the tent caterpillar has been noted valley-wide and in particular Terry is receiving worried calls from nurseries who anticipate trouble selling impacted trees in the short term. [It's hard > for them to tell a customer 'trust me'.] These web worms target the palos [breas and verdes] and old/new world acacias [excl. Australian]. If you have these, check them out, too. > > HOWEVER, this is strictly cosmetic damage, and Terry assures us that the branches will eventually leaf out, so do not prune them away. Web worms will focus on the tender new ends at the terminals, so unless the tree is very young and you fear that the infestation will have a dramatic impact, you have several options. Leave the tree alone. Spray well with water to hose them off. Use Bt > [bacillus thuringiensis] which is the traditional organic approach to any caterpillar. Or use Sevin. Terry notes that the best time to spray is after sundown, since these are nocturnal critters. > > Avoid the temptation to overwater these native trees. You'll just produce more luxuriant and voluminous vegetation to have to prune. > > Take heart in knowing it is nothing that you did, that you are not alone! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > Kamerakaye@aol.com wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From selligirl@aol.com Thu, 11 May 2000 18:09:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:09:24 -0700 (MST) From: selligirl@aol.com selligirl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently purchased an Arizona Ash Tree from Home Depot. After planting the tree we noticed tiny white bugs on the leaves that caused the leaves to curl up. We sprayed the tree with soapy water twice and do not see the bugs anymore. Now we have what looks like a white fungus on some of the leave stems. Unfortunately I am seeing this on my Snail vine plants now also. Is this a fungus? How do I save the tree and my snail vines? From A-J.Phoenix@worldnet.att.net Fri, 12 May 2000 08:37:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 08:37:02 -0700 (MST) From: A-J.Phoenix@worldnet.att.net A-J.Phoenix@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We've moved to Sun Lakes from Albuquerque recently, and I'd like information on planting roses:light requirements,when is the best time to plant them in this climate,the best varieties etc. Just general information please. Thankyou so much. Joyce Raleigh From ahler@netvalue.net Thu, 11 May 2000 20:59:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 20:59:59 -0700 (MST) From: ahler@netvalue.net ahler@netvalue.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I have a chinese elm tree (24" box planted 1 1/2 years ago, trunk is approximately 2# in diameter) with a strange area on the bark. About 3 1/2 feet up the trunk, there is an area all the way around the trunk that is swollen, cracked, discolored brownish, and splitting. It is about 4 inches in length, all the way around the treee. It is as if something was on the tree like a tourniquet and left behind damage. It appears that there are now some bugs are in the area. I saw little round egg sacks and ants. I hosed the area well to get rid of the current pests, but I am wondering what I should do to the area to protect it. There is no liquid or sap coming from it. Should it be sealed or treated with anything? I am concerned that it will be a source of weakness to the trunk. Thanks, I appreciate any advice. Jane From patwolfe@dellnet.com Fri, 12 May 2000 15:51:57 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 15:51:57 -0700 (MST) From: patwolfe@dellnet.com patwolfe@dellnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My hibiscus has many yellow leaves, with new ones showing every day. Does it need iron? Or what is the cause? From cbundy@uswest.net Fri, 12 May 2000 18:17:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 12 May 2000 18:17:44 -0700 (MST) From: cbundy@uswest.net cbundy@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page WHY DO HEALTHY PLANTS have FEW PEST PROBLEMS From reeva5@speedchoice.com Sat, 13 May 2000 11:11:37 -0600 Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 11:11:37 -0600 From: Randee reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BFBCCC.01C06700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I WOULD VERY MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. I have just planted Banksiae = rose in the front of my home. It is planted in a area that only gets = about three hr. of sun in the summer mornings. Will this plant thrive = in this situation??? Thanks for your help. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BFBCCC.01C06700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I WOULD VERY MUCH = APPRECIATE=20 YOUR HELP. I have just planted Banksiae  rose in the front of = my=20 home.  It is planted in a area that only gets about three hr. of = sun in the=20 summer mornings.  Will this plant thrive in this situation???  = Thanks=20 for your help.
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BFBCCC.01C06700-- From crystalcos@earthlink.net Sat, 13 May 2000 11:53:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 11:53:09 -0700 (MST) From: crystalcos@earthlink.net crystalcos@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Need recommendation for desert tree to replace a mulberry tree planted near swimming pool. Mulberry was messy with flowers blooming at beginning of pool season and very allergic. Like the lacy look and multiple trunk of some desert trees. Tree should not be too large and most of all not messy, at least during swimming season. From rustyc@inficad.com Sat, 13 May 2000 17:01:05 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 17:01:05 -0700 (MST) From: rustyc@inficad.com rustyc@inficad.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have 3 tomato plants. 2 of them look quite healthy, all of them are about 4 feet tall. The one that looks sick has a fair number of tomatoes on it, and has been producing good tomatoes, but it looks wilted pretty much all the time now. The plants get pretty much the same amount of water, but the wilting one is on the south end of the 'garden', whichi is along the walkway entering our house, along the east side of the garage - i.e. the plants are shaded in the afternoon, except for the wilting one. We put a shade over the wilter made with veil-type material. This does not seem to have helped. It does not touch the other 2 plants (it is close to them) - the other 2 plants DO touch each other. Is whatever is causing the wilted look likely to be contagious? SHould we pull the wilted one immediately or wait for it to quit producing tomatoes? Any other advice? Thanks! From Rlgoodwin011@aol.com Sat, 13 May 2000 17:37:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 13 May 2000 17:37:27 -0700 (MST) From: Rlgoodwin011@aol.com Rlgoodwin011@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted 10 lombard trees about 2 years ago.This year a warm spell came early and they started to bud.A frost came later .Some of them turned out ok, some started to leaf out on the bottom, and some have not done anything. Is there anything I can do or are the ones not showing life dead? Robert Goodwin From santafejewelers@cs.com Sun, 14 May 2000 06:47:03 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 06:47:03 -0700 (MST) From: santafejewelers@cs.com santafejewelers@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have had my lily of the nile planted in the ground for 2yrs. now and it hasn't bloomed since it was first planted. It is planted on the west wall of my back yard in good soil that is black. Do I need to give it vitamins to get it to bloom? I also have it in a container. Please help me get this beautiful plant to bloom. From maynards@altavista.com Sun, 14 May 2000 10:03:53 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 10:03:53 -0700 (MST) From: maynards@altavista.com maynards@altavista.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When canna leaves turn brown, the plant looks like dried tobacco. Do I trim them or let them fall off on their own? Also, when is a good time to divide and replant canna bulbs? From valpogrl@aol.com Sun, 14 May 2000 13:21:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:21:04 -0700 (MST) From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 10 year old Eucalyptus Leucoxylon tree. In the last year or two it has been losing bark in long strips off the main trunk. It appears that a large brach is dying and or dead also. I stripped some of the bark off the main trunk and there is no noticble insect activity, although I did see 2 or 3 white very small egg sacs. Is losing bark a trait of this tree? Thank you, Cindy Ciotti From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:15:50 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:15:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Poolside Tree We have a good publication on landscaping around pools, available at http://ag.arizona.edu/ecat/pubs/az1058.pdf Other publications on ornamentals can be seen at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals For instance, MC-33 on drought resistant trees. To order, go to the top of this page, or check out your local library's reference section: they sometimes have a notebook of our pubs in section #635. The lacy leafed leguminous desert and adapted trees provide beautiful filtered shade. But I'm afraid they are not the best choice for near a pool given flower, pod and leaf litter at different times of year (the flower and leaf litter are very fine coatings all over the ground, as if it had 'snowed'). Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener crystalcos@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Need recommendation for desert tree to replace a mulberry tree planted near swimming pool. Mulberry was messy with flowers blooming at beginning of pool season and very allergic. Like the lacy look and multiple trunk of some desert trees. Tree should not be too large and most of all not messy, at least during swimming season. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:27:01 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:27:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Mexican Lime Problems First, our citrus expert on staff would like to know how the tree is doing at this time, since several weeks have elapsed since you first posed the question. Next, he suspects Phytophthora Foot Rot of Citrus which is discussed in a publication by the same name (Q191); it can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Or check out the reference section of your local library, which sometimes will carry a notebook of our publications in section #635. You could also send a sample of the soil, with fine roots for testing for this disease to one of the labs listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Good luck! Linda Guy rkausal@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a mexican lime tree that was planted in a pot, then transplanted to the ground after 4 years. The tree was root bound and suffering leaf drop, small fruit. Transplanted 10/99 and seemed fine during winter after trimming dry, dead branches away. Tree flowered heavily this spring and then began to loose leaves and branches are dying from the ends toward the trunk. Now watering 10-14 days apart, deep water in basin. Fertilized lightly in March. Can you suggest a remedy? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:35:29 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:35:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Turf for Shady Spots There is an excellent discussion lawn for shaded areas in a past issue of the Horticultural Communicator, which is online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm Written by Mike Hills who is a turf agronomist as well as a fellow Master Gardener, his top choice for turf in this situation is tall fescue or zoysia, although this is not his first recommended strategy. Look for page 14 of the July 1998 issue. You might also want to peruse our lawn publications, listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Most are not online, but can be ordered with instructions on this page. Sometimes your local library will carry our notebook of Home Horticulture pubs in the reference section (#635) Linda Guy Master Gardener dgbook@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have Midiron grass which has performed well for twelve years. However, now we are developing quite a bit of shade on the lawns. What can I put in the shady spots to keep them green ? Thank you. Diane Book > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:41:08 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:41:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Mulching Material I don't have a definitive source for an answer. But for annuals/flower beds/etc. I prefer organic materials, which break down and add a bit to our soils. If my memory serves me correctly, the pine will tend to acidify the soil as well, although these take a long time to decompose. All mulches should be kept away from the plant stems to prevent rotting. Another consideration is to understand that decomposing material (if turned into the soil) will temporarily use the soil nutrients for this process, robbing your plants. Supplemental fertilizer may be necessary when this happens. Linda Guy Master Gardener j_harrell@netzero.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Mulch Materials > > I know about the various materials but I > wonder what experienced gardeners use in > this heat. I'd love to use up the multi- > tude of pine needles I have, but they seem > to perhaps still let in a lot of air, though > they are mulched up. > > Would dry grass clippings hold the moisture > close to the earth better? What's best? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:44:02 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:44:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Grapefruit Did Not Bloom Can you tell us a bit more about your cultivation practices (water, fertilizer, disease/pest treatment) as well as if something may have occurred in an adjacent area, or if there was an unusual weather pattern in the last year? Linda Guy Master Gardener hynes@psn.net wrote: > arid_gardener > My grapefruit tree did not bloom at all this year, but it looks healthy otherwise, so why would it not bloom? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:50:49 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:50:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Dogwood Propagation I grew up with dogwoods in rural Maryland, but haven't seen any here in the low desert of Phoenix which leads me to believe you live elsewhere. Have you contacted your own county cooperative extension office, whose number would be listed in the blue county government pages of the phonebook? Taking plant cuttings was discussed in several responses I sent last week, which you can see at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001468.html This is the archive section of our site, which is available on the same page where you placed this question originally. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Dinkywrtz@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I just lost a beloved dogwood tree. My friend has one from the same bunch. How would I go about taking a cutting from hers and rooting it? Or any other advise on how to get a tree from hers. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 06:57:09 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 06:57:09 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Slug Bait Toxicity I'm not familiar with this product. What are the composite elements of the slug/snail bait? Also, did you check the label for a phone number or website for the manufacturer who would surely be glad to answer your question? A good reference is the Pesticide Chapter of the Master Gardener Manual, Formulations section, available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pesticides/index.html This may be moot, since your lettuce may have bolted by now. Sorry for the delayed response, but we've quite a few questions to answer lately! Linda Guy Master Gardener jrmcd64@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > the other day i threw some lilly miller slug and snail bait into my vegtable garden. i see some landed on the leaf lettuce. i am wondering if the lettuce would be safe to eat after washing it off. thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mikesmower@aol.com Sun, 14 May 2000 18:50:43 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 18:50:43 -0700 (MST) From: mikesmower@aol.com mikesmower@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page you folks have helped in the past so i just wanted to say thank you in advance. ok...i have three grape vines that produce an incredible amound of grapes. i live in chandler. i water them for 2 hours three times per week with one gallon per hour drippers. (6 gallons per week) anyway, many of the leaves look very odd. kind of shriveled up but more like they have been pulled or stretched. i am probably not describing this very well but that is the best i can do. again...thanks in advance. tim From diverex1@home.com Sun, 14 May 2000 22:29:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 22:29:04 -0700 (MST) From: diverex1@home.com diverex1@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm looking for additional information on working with Bamboo planting structures/supports in the Southwest and a good explanation of the basic knot tying techniques. From Patrickjorr@hotmail.com Sun, 14 May 2000 21:38:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:38:33 -0700 (MST) From: Patrickjorr@hotmail.com Patrickjorr@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page All the houses in my neighborhood are on 1/8 acre lots. A few years ago my neighbor on the west side of my house planted a cotton wood tree. Unbeknownst to both of us, the cottonwood tree puts roots out in all directions for more than 50 feet. Each one of these roots sprouts new cotton wood trees. My yard is now filled with roots just below the soil surface from this tree, and it is sending up baby cotton wood trees from its roots all over my yard. Is there anything I can do. The tree is invading my gardens, my grass areas, and I am afraid it will soon destroy the fence between our two yards, ruin the garden and overtake the yard. The roots are now getting so thick, the babies that pop up can no longer be cut out with just a knife. I am having to use loppers to cut the root. Patrick From cmoor@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 08:44:59 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 08:44:59 -0700 From: Cathleen Moore cmoor@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The book 'Japanese Gardenining in small spaces' by Isao Yoshikawa has a fair amount of information on bamboo construction which you might find useful. on 5/14 you wrote: >arid_gardener >I'm looking for additional information on working with Bamboo planting >structures/supports in the Southwest and a good explanation of the basic >knot tying techniques. > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener >Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 09:00:09 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:00:09 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Grape Leaves Shriveling Tim, Although I've no personal experience, you seem to be having problems with grape leaf skeletonizers, the larva of a moth. We have a web page on this critter, but I'd like to show it to you via the monthly Timely Tips column, which you might find helpful with other problems or the timing of gardening chores through out the year. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm This link will bring you to the May page. Find the heading on Insects and within this segment you will find a reference to the skeletonizer. As with other caterpillars/larval stages Bt (bacillus thuringiensis) is a preferred treatment. Linda Guy Master Gardener mikesmower@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > you folks have helped in the past so i just wanted to say thank you in advance. ok...i have three grape vines that produce an incredible amound of grapes. i live in chandler. i water them for 2 hours three times per week with one gallon per hour drippers. (6 gallons per week) anyway, many of the leaves look very odd. kind of shriveled up but more like they have been pulled or stretched. i am probably not describing this very well but that is the best i can do. again...thanks in advance. > tim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lady Bank's Rose --------------8C07EC502405EA847297BEF3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Randee, You are better off with a placement that gets at least 8 hours of sun. It is unlikely to flower and thrive here, particularly if it gets no sun half the year. Many roses prefer relief to afternoon summer sun. But in my neighborhood, there are many lady banks specimens over fences that get sun all day long, every day of the year and are doing just fine. Linda Guy Master Gardener Randee wrote: > I WOULD VERY MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. I have just planted Banksiae > rose in the front of my home. It is planted in a area that only gets > about three hr. of sun in the summer mornings. Will this plant thrive > in this situation??? Thanks for your help. --------------8C07EC502405EA847297BEF3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Randee,

You are better off with a placement that gets at least 8 hours of sun. It is unlikely to flower and thrive here, particularly if it gets no sun half the year. Many roses prefer relief to afternoon summer sun. But in my neighborhood, there are many lady banks specimens over fences that get sun all day long, every day of the year and are doing just fine.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Randee wrote:

I WOULD VERY MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR HELP. I have just planted Banksiae  rose in the front of my home.  It is planted in a area that only gets about three hr. of sun in the summer mornings.  Will this plant thrive in this situation???  Thanks for your help.
--------------8C07EC502405EA847297BEF3-- From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 09:13:09 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:13:09 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Re: tulips We are experiencing a high volume of questions...I still have 50 unanswered emails in my inbasket, some from late April. Apologies, but we do the best we can as volunteers. The short answer is to refrigerate them 3 to 4 weeks before planting in Nov/Dec timeframe. Before then, store in cool dry place, but not air-tight or plastic. Having said this, tulips are not the best bulb performer, in my opinion, so if they don't return, I won't be surprised. Daffodils and irises are much better spring performers. Linda Guy Master Gardener R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > i have asked this same question twice before and received no response. can > tulip bulbs be placed in the frig for a couple weeks after the petals fallen > off the > flowers and then repotted again for another go around? is it the frig or > freezer? > > in addition, one more question? when the colors of your deep pink rose start > to > fade into a real pale pink and the blooms become disfigured what does the bush > need. i have been fertilizing weekly with regular rose food. From reeva5@speedchoice.com Mon, 15 May 2000 13:08:43 -0600 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 13:08:43 -0600 From: Randee reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] Lady Banks Roses This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFBE6E.B24F88A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It seems like I have picked a poor spot for this plant. (very little = sun) Please tell me which quick growing vine to plant here. I would = also like it to be green all year, and flower if possible. Thanks. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFBE6E.B24F88A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It seems like I have picked = a poor=20 spot for this plant.  (very little sun)  Please tell me which = quick=20 growing vine to plant here.  I would also like it to be green all = year, and=20 flower if possible.  Thanks.
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BFBE6E.B24F88A0-- From PlantPerson@prodigy.net Mon, 15 May 2000 15:17:38 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:17:38 -0700 From: Pauline Marx PlantPerson@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Vine for very little sun. This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00BD_01BFBE80.B4DAE940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My Desert Landscaping program includes the following when I ask it for vines that need little sun. Cat's claw vine, Coyote Melon, Japanese Honeysuckle, Lavender Orchid Vine, Longleaf Morning Glory, Pink Trumper vine, Primrose Jasmine, Pyracantha, Slender Janusia, Snail Vine, Snapdragon vine,Trailing African Daisy, Trumpet vine, Virgins Bower, Virginia Creeper, and Yellow (Carolina) Jessamine. These are all listed as full sun/part shade plants. Pauline Marx Maricopa County AZ Master Gardener Intern Former NC Master Gardener ------=_NextPart_000_00BD_01BFBE80.B4DAE940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =FF=FE<=00!=00D=00O=00C=00T=00Y=00P=00E=00 =00H=00T=00M=00L=00 = =00P=00U=00B=00L=00I=00C=00 = =00"=00-=00/=00/=00W=003=00C=00/=00/=00D=00T=00D=00 =00H=00T=00M=00L=00 = =004=00.=000=00 = =00T=00r=00a=00n=00s=00i=00t=00i=00o=00n=00a=00l=00/=00/=00E=00N=00"=00>=00= =0D=00=0A= =00<=00H=00T=00M=00L=00>=00<=00H=00E=00A=00D=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00M=00E=00T=00A=00 = =00c=00o=00n=00t=00e=00n=00t=00=3D=00"=00t=00e=00x=00t=00/=00h=00t=00m=00= l=00;=00 = =00c=00h=00a=00r=00s=00e=00t=00=3D=00u=00n=00i=00c=00o=00d=00e=00"=00 = =00h=00t=00t=00p=00-=00e=00q=00u=00i=00v=00=3D=00C=00o=00n=00t=00e=00n=00= t=00-=00T=00y=00p=00e=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00M=00E=00T=00A=00 = =00c=00o=00n=00t=00e=00n=00t=00=3D=00"=00M=00S=00H=00T=00M=00L=00 = =005=00.=000=000=00.=002=006=001=004=00.=003=005=000=000=00"=00 = =00n=00a=00m=00e=00=3D=00G=00E=00N=00E=00R=00A=00T=00O=00R=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00S=00T=00Y=00L=00E=00>=00<=00/=00S=00T=00Y=00L=00E=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00/=00H=00E=00A=00D=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00B=00O=00D=00Y=00 = =00b=00g=00C=00o=00l=00o=00r=00=3D=00#=00f=00f=00f=00f=00f=00f=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00<=00F=00O=00N=00T=00 = =00f=00a=00c=00e=00=3D=00A=00r=00i=00a=00l=00 = =00s=00i=00z=00e=00=3D=002=00>=00M=00y=00 =00D=00e=00s=00e=00r=00t=00 = =00L=00a=00n=00d=00s=00c=00a=00p=00i=00n=00g=00 = =00p=00r=00o=00g=00r=00a=00m=00 =00i=00n=00c=00l=00u=00d=00e=00s=00 = =00t=00h=00e=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00f=00o=00l=00l=00o=00w=00i=00n=00g=00 =00w=00h=00e=00n=00 =00I=00 = =00a=00s=00k=00 =00i=00t=00 =00f=00o=00r=00 =00v=00i=00n=00e=00s=00 = =00t=00h=00a=00t=00 =00n=00e=00e=00d=00 =00l=00i=00t=00t=00l=00e=00 = =00s=00u=00n=00.=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =00C=00a=00t=00'=00s=00 = =00c=00l=00a=00w=00 =00v=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00C=00o=00y=00o=00t=00e=00 =00M=00e=00l=00o=00n=00,=00 = =00J=00a=00p=00a=00n=00e=00s=00e=00 = =00H=00o=00n=00e=00y=00s=00u=00c=00k=00l=00e=00,=00 = =00L=00a=00v=00e=00n=00d=00e=00r=00 =00O=00r=00c=00h=00i=00d=00 = =00V=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 =00L=00o=00n=00g=00l=00e=00a=00f=00 = =00M=00o=00r=00n=00i=00n=00g=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00G=00l=00o=00r=00y=00,=00 =00P=00i=00n=00k=00 = =00T=00r=00u=00m=00p=00e=00r=00 =00v=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 = =00P=00r=00i=00m=00r=00o=00s=00e=00 =00J=00a=00s=00m=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 = =00P=00y=00r=00a=00c=00a=00n=00t=00h=00a=00,=00 = =00S=00l=00e=00n=00d=00e=00r=00 =00J=00a=00n=00u=00s=00i=00a=00,=00 = =00S=00n=00a=00i=00l=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00V=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 =00S=00n=00a=00p=00d=00r=00a=00g=00o=00n=00 = =00v=00i=00n=00e=00,=00T=00r=00a=00i=00l=00i=00n=00g=00 = =00A=00f=00r=00i=00c=00a=00n=00 =00D=00a=00i=00s=00y=00,=00 = =00T=00r=00u=00m=00p=00e=00t=00 =00v=00i=00n=00e=00,=00 = =00V=00i=00r=00g=00i=00n=00s=00 =00B=00o=00w=00e=00r=00,=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00V=00i=00r=00g=00i=00n=00i=00a=00 =00C=00r=00e=00e=00p=00e=00r=00,=00 = =00a=00n=00d=00 =00Y=00e=00l=00l=00o=00w=00 = =00(=00C=00a=00r=00o=00l=00i=00n=00a=00)=00 = =00J=00e=00s=00s=00a=00m=00i=00n=00e=00.=00 = =00<=00/=00F=00O=00N=00T=00>=00<=00/=00D=00I=00V=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00<=00F=00O=00N=00T=00 = =00f=00a=00c=00e=00=3D=00A=00r=00i=00a=00l=00 = =00s=00i=00z=00e=00=3D=002=00>=00T=00h=00e=00s=00e=00 =00a=00r=00e=00 = =00a=00l=00l=00 =00l=00i=00s=00t=00e=00d=00 =00a=00s=00 = =00f=00u=00l=00l=00 =00s=00u=00n=00/=00p=00a=00r=00t=00 = =00s=00h=00a=00d=00e=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00p=00l=00a=00n=00t=00s=00.=00<=00/=00F=00O=00N=00T=00>=00<=00/=00D=00I=00= V=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00<=00D=00I=00V=00>=00<=00F=00O=00N=00T=00 = =00f=00a=00c=00e=00=3D=00A=00r=00i=00a=00l=00 = =00s=00i=00z=00e=00=3D=002=00>=00P=00a=00u=00l=00i=00n=00e=00 = =00M=00a=00r=00x=00<=00B=00R=00>=00M=00a=00r=00i=00c=00o=00p=00a=00 = =00C=00o=00u=00n=00t=00y=00&=00n=00b=00s=00p=00;=00 =00A=00Z=00 = =00M=00a=00s=00t=00e=00r=00 =00=0D=00=0A= =00G=00a=00r=00d=00e=00n=00e=00r=00 = =00I=00n=00t=00e=00r=00n=00<=00B=00R=00>=00F=00o=00r=00m=00e=00r=00 = =00N=00C=00 =00M=00a=00s=00t=00e=00r=00 = =00G=00a=00r=00d=00e=00n=00e=00r=00<=00/=00F=00O=00N=00T=00>=00<=00/=00D=00= I=00V=00>=00<=00/=00B=00O=00D=00Y=00>=00<=00/=00H=00T=00M=00L=00>=00=0D=00=0A= =00 ------=_NextPart_000_00BD_01BFBE80.B4DAE940-- From SamRowen@compuserve.com Mon, 15 May 2000 12:36:28 -0400 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 12:36:28 -0400 From: Samuel F. Rowen SamRowen@compuserve.com Subject: [AG] Gardenia questions I live in the city of Philadelphia, PA and have a large gardenia plant in a large planter inside the house. I realize it needs special care re the temperature and watering. I bought it about 3 weeks ago. Since then it has had 3-4 blooms. However, the leaves are turning yellow and falling off. I keep the soil moist but not wet/soggy. It does not get any direct sun or sun light. The questions I have, is why are the leaves turning yellow? Can I take the plant outside on the deck? Can I leave it out there all winter? Can it take direct sun? I would appreciate your expertise very much. Thanks. Ruth Rowen From cgglen@cs.com Mon, 15 May 2000 15:33:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 15:33:24 -0700 (MST) From: cgglen@cs.com cgglen@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! I am new to this desert gardening and have several questions. We planted some iceplants last Fall in our front yard (Northern exposure, morning & afternoon sun. Our landscaper set our drip system to water on a daily basis for approx. one hour and since our plants are not established yet (one year - right?)we did not change the watering schedule as yet. My iceplants have lost their rich green color and look pale green to yellow, some of the inner leaves are dry and crumbling. What is the problem? We also planted a Yucca Gloriosa (Southern exposure, with sun all day) and it is not attached to our drip system. It is starting to get spotty, slightly yellow leaves. What would be the ideal watering schedule for this time of year? Appreciate any assistance. Connie From Jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Mon, 15 May 2000 16:30:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:30:32 -0700 (MST) From: Jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sunflowers are beginning to produce. What is the best way to save/ use the seeds? I read that the herb Citronella is great to repel pests. Does it grow here? Where might I find it? From lfborger@srpnet.com Mon, 15 May 2000 09:54:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 09:54:37 -0700 (MST) From: lfborger@srpnet.com lfborger@srpnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently purchased a home in a rural area outside of Bisbee, AZ. In addition to a regular kitchen sink, there is a vegitable sink and disposal that empties into an outside mulch pit, as opposed to the other water drains in the house which go to septic. My question is, can I attach a dishwasher drain to the non-septic, mulch-pit drain? Will the dishwasher effluent hurt plants nearby or spoil the mulch? Is there a type of dishwasher detergent that I should use or should definitely not use? I'm mostly interested in an environmental and plant-responsible response, not just what the building code says...thnx! From loopylu62@hotmail.com Mon, 15 May 2000 10:13:24 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 10:13:24 -0700 (MST) From: loopylu62@hotmail.com loopylu62@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i live in southern israel and i have a big problem with the persian rose beetle (imported for the control of mosquitos). They are eating my herbs, esp. my basil and nobody seems to know how to control them, or at least what they do not like. If anybody has any information on this i would be very grateful. They are little brown beetles which come out at night in the summer. From loki5@home.com Mon, 15 May 2000 11:18:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 11:18:27 -0700 (MST) From: loki5@home.com loki5@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the best non-chemical method of repelling rabbits? I have heard of red fox urine, but I believe that there are other methods to use. From josiah_r_lowrey@prusec.com Mon, 15 May 2000 16:34:38 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:34:38 -0700 (MST) From: josiah_r_lowrey@prusec.com josiah_r_lowrey@prusec.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Before putting down St Augustine plugs I have been instructed to put down lime. Does anyone know if this is a good thing to do. I have heard that the least thing our soils need is lime. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 16:49:25 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 16:49:25 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dishwasher waste water on plants/mulch pit I would be inclined not to drain my dishwasher into that area for plant use. Here is why: even though I use a biodegradeable dishwater detergent that is phosphate- and chlorine-free, it still contains a lot of sodium compounds that the box says are used as water softeners to treat water spots. I wouldn't want the additional salts to go on my plants, which causes serious burn to them. There are enough salts in our Arizona soil that make it tough on plants. My fellow Master Gardeners may have a differing opinion on this so watch for other ideas. Sincerely, Sue Bass Master Gardener lfborger@srpnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I recently purchased a home in a rural area outside of Bisbee, AZ. In addition to a regular kitchen sink, there is a vegitable sink and disposal that empties into an outside mulch pit, as opposed to the other water drains in the house which go to septic. My question is, can I attach a dishwasher drain to the non-septic, mulch-pit drain? Will the dishwasher effluent hurt plants nearby or spoil the mulch? Is there a type of dishwasher detergent that I should use or should definitely not use? I'm mostly interested in an environmental and plant-responsible response, not just what the building code says...thnx! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From AST64@aol.com Mon, 15 May 2000 17:31:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:31:15 -0700 (MST) From: AST64@aol.com AST64@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 3 bougainvilleas--two are torchglows and one is a La Jolla (I have others of these varieties without problems) My problem is that although they are blooming, they are not growing. In other words, they are not creating the stalks orlimbs like the others. They have a wonderfully full bloom, but only like a ground cover height. Were these harmed in some way? Suggestions? From renae@kkpaddywhacks.com Mon, 15 May 2000 17:49:56 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 17:49:56 -0700 (MST) From: renae@kkpaddywhacks.com renae@kkpaddywhacks.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We had our first winter lawn seeded last October and the our summer lawn is starting to take over but we have, what looks like, major "dead areas" throughout the yard. It looks awful! We have our sprinklers set to come on twice a day for 7 minutes each time (per our maintenance person) but the "dead patches" have only changed slightly as some green is showing through. My concern is: do we have a disease or is it just the change from winter to summer lawn? Thanks, in advance, for any suggestion you may have! Sincerely, Renae From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 19:23:15 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:23:15 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Tree Identification The following site has a gallery of desert adapted trees for the Southwest. It doesn't come near to all the different trees grown here but its a start. You could take a cutting from the tree in to the a nursery to find out what it is or you could stop in at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office if you live in the Phoenix area and someone may be able to identify it for you. http://www.aridzonetrees.com/gallery.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener jdgeram@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have recently purchased a new house and I am trying to figure out what kind on tree I have in my front yard. Are there any web sites I can go to that have ways of figuring it out? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 19:50:33 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 19:50:33 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pepper Tree with possible Texas Root Rot Tod: You can view information on Texas Root Rot on line at the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm There is also a publication called, Diseases of Landscape Trees that may be helpful to you. You can get it from the Cooperative Extension office. The California Pepper Tree is very susceptible to Texas Root Rot. You can also view a fellow Master Gardener's response to a question on treatment for Texas Root Rot at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1855.html Good Luck Sue Bass Master Gardener "Tod A. Gregoire" wrote: > arid_gardener > I've got a situation at home I can't figure out. I have a 5 year old > California Pepper Tree in my back yard that has been growing leaps and bound > every year with an awesome canope. However, I've been noticing leaf shed > that started about late winter to early spring. The trunk seems to be > thickening because bark continues to peal away. My concern is the lack of > leaves and the amount of dead branches that continue to accumulate. The tree > looks very unhealthy and is getting close to being bare. > > I have thought about the possibility of Texas Root Rot but the area I have > it in is well drained. Also, I don't over water it. Even so, I can't rule > out the rot. Is there an expert out there on this subject? Can you tell me > if this sounds like the Rot and if so, is there a compound I can pour into > the soil around the tree to kill the fungus? This tree needs help and so do > I. > > Thanks for your input and information. > > Tod Gregoire > Support Systems Analyst, Senior > The University of Arizona > College of Agriculture > (520) 621-7197 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 20:56:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:56:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] fertilizer for hibiscus --------------F79E9B01DF45422891104B8B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom: A visit to the Tropical Hibiscus Society page would probably give you the proper information you are looking for. They have a section devoted to fertilizing hibiscus. You can visit them at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ Sue Bass Master Gardener Tom Derieg wrote: > Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the > hibiscus? --------------F79E9B01DF45422891104B8B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom:
A visit to the Tropical Hibiscus Society page would probably give you the proper information you are looking for.  They have a section devoted to fertilizing hibiscus.  You can visit them at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

Tom Derieg wrote:

Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?
--------------F79E9B01DF45422891104B8B-- From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 20:57:28 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:57:28 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Flowering Trees Subject: Re: Flowering Trees Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 20:53:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass To: dean_ressler@mk.com References: 1 Dean: There are many flowering trees other than the fruit trees we grow for produce (apples, plums, cherries, etc.). Here in the low desert we have many flowering trees: the palo verdes, jacarandas, sweet acacias, orchid trees, desert willow, silk tree, coral gum, just to name a few. Sue Bass Master Gardener dean_ressler@mk.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Are fruit trees the only trees that bloom with flowers? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 15 May 2000 21:03:53 -0700 Date: Mon, 15 May 2000 21:03:53 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Bug on Brittlebush Jennifer: I haven't noticed a bug fitting this description on my brittlebush. I would suggest that you try to put a few in a jar or some container and take it to the Cooperative Extension office. They have a Friday morning diagnostic team that meets and they may be able to help you. The office is located at: 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086. Sue Bass Master Gardener nativenursery@redrivernet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can anyone tell me what the lacewing bug is that I am finding on Brittlebush and Sunflowers right now. It is small (not much larger than an aphid) and flat with light colored lacy wings and a black body. There are tons of them and they bite people if disturbed. They do seem to do damage. I know I read somewhere about an insect that was common on Brittlebush, but I can't find the reference. Thanks. > > Jennifer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:10 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bougainvillea Torchglow and La Jolla are both shrub bougainvillea and as such do not grow the long stalks that the vining varieties have. Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:13 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:13 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Eucalyptus losing bark Cindy, Yes the Eucalyptus leucoxylon has a common trait of losing large sections of bark. It is perfectly normal. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:12 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:12 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ice plant, Watering Your problem is too much water. They will do very well on once per week. Check pout the following websites on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:11 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 01:26:11 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Lime application for turf The person that told you not to put down lime was entirely correct provided you live in the Southwest and your soil is alkaline. Lime is a recommended soil additive in most of the United States where higher rainfall has given them an acid soil with a low pH. I don't know of any place in Maricopa County where one would use lime to raise the soil pH. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 16 May 2000 08:19:28 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 08:19:28 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Connie, The problem as you may have guessed for both is the watering scheme. The iceplants are getting way too much and too often and that is why they are pale. Ideally, iceplants would want to be watered perhaps once a week, or less if it is cold, in the winter. In the summer, they are nearly dormant and would want water no more frequently than every two weeks, and sometimes less than that. The yucca is quite different. That particular type can take a lot of water and look very good. It does appreciate good drainage. So, in the summer this would mean at least once a week, although it can tolerate a schedule as frequent as every 4 days. In the winter it would be only about every other week, and in between it is a gradual transition from one watering scheme to the other. Good luck, Mary Irish cgglen@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi! > > I am new to this desert gardening and have several questions. > > We planted some iceplants last Fall in our front yard (Northern exposure, morning & afternoon sun. Our landscaper set our drip system to water on a daily basis for approx. one hour and since our plants are not established yet (one year - right?)we did not change the watering schedule as yet. My iceplants have lost their rich green color and look pale green to yellow, some of the inner leaves are dry and crumbling. What is the problem? > > We also planted a Yucca Gloriosa (Southern exposure, with sun all day) and it is not attached to our drip system. It is starting to get spotty, slightly yellow leaves. > > What would be the ideal watering schedule for this time of year? > > Appreciate any assistance. > > Connie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From judyconrad@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 06:31:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 06:31:59 -0700 (MST) From: judyconrad@aol.com judyconrad@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased a Agave Parryi----it is quite large and came from a landscaper that collects them from the desert. This is the second agave for the first one turned yellow and the middle started to wrinkle. It was during the very hard 3 day rain we had so we thought it perhaps received too much water. The landscaper gave me a new one figuring it needed to be added to the drip system---the new one which was a transplant from the desert with alot of roots is now starting to turn yellow on the bottom and wrinkle. The landscaper addded it to the drip system . My question is should it be on the drip system and is it normal for them to go into a shock and turn yellow etc? I planted a small one in a pot and it is beautiful and I only water it once a month no attention is required. Should the same go for the large one in the ground? thank you. From Judyconrad@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 06:37:51 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 06:37:51 -0700 (MST) From: Judyconrad@aol.com Judyconrad@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 11:24:49 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:24:49 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Euphorbia Care Judy: A fellow Master Gardener provided information on euphorbia care in the past. You can view her response at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/1999-November/000111.html. In my previous note to you I mentioned that transplanted cacti and succulents need a moist, but not over-wet root area until the roots reestablish. I would think this would be same for your euphorbia. Sue Bass Master Gardener Judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 11:11:53 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:11:53 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Agave transplant Judy: We have a publication available at the Cooperative Extension office on Cactus, Agave, Yucca & Ocotillo. You can view information on ordering this publication at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals The publication is No. 8309. The brochure mentions a few things about transplanting. On the topic of irrigation it mentions that you should irrigate sufficiently to keep the soil in the rooting area moist (not wet) after transplanting and until new root development becomes established. Check the soil moisture at rooting depth before subsequent watering to avoid over-wet soils. With regard to transplanting it mentions that you should transplant to the original growing depth and in their original directional orientation. So the original south side of the plant which has become more heat and sunlight resistant, should again face the hotter southern direction. The transplanting operation is always a shock on a plant so some degree of growth set-back is to be expected. Properly transplanted, however, it should reestablish itself fairly successfully. Sue Bass Master Gardener judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I purchased a Agave Parryi----it is quite large and came from a landscaper that collects them from the desert. This is the second agave for the first one turned yellow and the middle started to wrinkle. It was during the very hard 3 day rain we had so we thought it perhaps received too much water. The landscaper gave me a new one figuring it needed to be added to the drip system---the new one which was a transplant from the desert with alot of roots is now starting to turn yellow on the bottom and wrinkle. The landscaper addded it to the drip system . My question is should it be on the drip system and is it normal for them to go into a shock and turn yellow etc? I planted a small one in a pot and it is beautiful and I only water it once a month no attention is required. Should the same go for the large one in the ground? thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From AST64@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 11:02:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:02:37 -0700 (MST) From: AST64@aol.com AST64@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Thank you for your response. However, with all due respect, I think you are incorrect about bougainvillea-Torchglow and La Jolla. As I said I have others which have grown tall without having been supported like a vine. Moreover, the ones in question had been tall and now are not producing tall shoots. So, my question is why aren't they producing tall shoots or any shoots as in the past From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 11:38:36 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:38:36 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Catclaw Acacia The catclaw acacia shrub can do very well on deep infrequent watering. According the Judy Mielke's book, "Native Plants for Southwestern Landscaping" once established these shrubs can be left on their own or given a deep soaking once a month in the summer. A good gauge for a deep soaking would be to water to a depth of about 3 feet. You can check this inserting a rod into the soil. This would flush salts away from the roots. Frequent, short waterings can cause a buildup of salts in the soil around the roots and damage the plant. Sue Bass Master Gardener herbandjolene@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 4 catsclaw bushes about 4 years old. About 10 to 12 feet tall. I Have them on a soaker hose watering system. How often and how long should they be watered to make it through the summer. I have been watering every 3 days for 20 minutes. Is this too long or too short. They are healthy and doing well. However if I can cut down on watering I would like to. Thankyou > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 10:58:48 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 10:58:48 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Controlling Rabbits We have a publication on this subject which you can view on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm I know several people who have said that they have had success using blood meal. Others have not. Might be worth a try. Good Luck Sue Bass Master Gardener loki5@home.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What is the best non-chemical method of repelling rabbits? I have heard of red fox urine, but I believe that there are other methods to use. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 11:52:13 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 11:52:13 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Bougainvillea Torch Glow and La Jolla I pulled out my trusty Sunset Western Garden Guide to look into this one. The book does say that you can fertilize in spring and summer. Water normally while plants are growing and then ease off temporarily in mid-summer to promote better flowering. It mentions La Jolla as having bright red bracts, compact, shrubby habit, good shrub or container plant. As for Torch Glow, it is called an oddity, an erect, multistemmed plant to 6 ft. Needs no support. The only mention of bouganvillea taking the form of a ground cover is through corrective pruning. You might want to try fertilizing and see if that helps. Another source I have says that fertilizing will promote foliage growth, it doesn't increase flowering. If I find anything furter I'll let you know. Sue Bass Master Gardener AST64@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Thank you for your response. However, with all due respect, I think you are incorrect about bougainvillea-Torchglow and La Jolla. As I said I have others which have grown tall without having been supported like a vine. Moreover, the ones in question had been tall and now are not producing tall shoots. So, my question is why aren't they producing tall shoots or any shoots as in the past > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 16 May 2000 12:51:35 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:51:35 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Judy, I would say that your Euphorbia tiracalii is definitely receiving too much water. The schedule in the back should be sufficient. However, plants which are unaccustomed to the full sun can turn yellow and then sunburn when suddenly placed there, so some shade for the first summer it is in the ground could help. Mary Judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Tue, 16 May 2000 12:54:34 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:54:34 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Judy, Regarding your agave many things are possible. Because you say it was wild collected and because Agave parryi is generally found at much higher elevations than Phoenix, it could be a combination of heat and transplant shock. As long as the yellowing and the drying up is of the very oldest leaves only, it is probably temporary and good care will keep the rest of the plant healthy. Your watering is probably a little too much after the first couple of weeks in the ground. Generally, once the agave has been in the ground for a couple of weeks, has been water 2-3 times a week during that time, it can go to no more than once a week watering. AFter the plant is well established and you feel the root system is functioning, it can be watered about every 2 weeks to 10 days in the summer and much less often in the winter. Shade during the first summer is very beneficial. Good luck, mary Judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 15:55:23 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 15:55:23 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Please help if you can! Hi Tammy, I'm passing your question onto the Arid-gardener board. I'm doing so much volunteering I don't have as much time to research questions. I'm sure that oleanders can be propagated via cuttings but someone else may be able to answer your question before I'll get a chance to do the research. Does your friend realize that all parts of the oleander are poisonous? Is she referring to dwarf oleander or standard size? Once this plant is established, especially the standard size, it is serious work to remove it. As you can tell this is not one of my favorite plants. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/3/00 8:08:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, tammy_gomez@hotmail.com writes: << Subj: Please help if you can! Date: 5/3/00 8:08:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: tammy_gomez@hotmail.com (Tammy) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com Hi, my name is Tammy Gomez and I am from Rankin, TX. I take care of an 82 year old woman that is going blind. She loves the outdoors and really enjoys being in her yard and out looking at the wild flowers along the roadways, but recently (approx. 2 or 3 yrs.) she has been having problems with her eyes and is going blind. She wants to plant more Oleander bushes in her yard and she wants me to have some also. Someone has told her that we can use the branches cut from these plants when pruning to grow another bush. Is this true and if not is there anyway to grow these plants yourself without buying the bush at a store? I got your address off of the internet when I was trying to find this information, I am not real good "surfing" the net so if you are unable to help me please accept my apology for this e-mail, if you are able to help me I thank you very much in advance, you will have made the day a little brighter for a very sweet lady!! Thanks again, Tammy From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 13:27:30 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:27:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Agave care This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------9018E962A38DC14056EF460D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------9018E962A38DC14056EF460D Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 93507 invoked by uid 0); 16 May 2000 19:50:08 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (204.147.80.19) by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2000 19:50:08 -0000 Received: (qmail 26390 invoked from network); 16 May 2000 19:50:07 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2000 19:50:07 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (Ag.Arizona.Edu [128.196.42.70]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id MAA29939; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:49:01 -0700 (MST) Received: from smtp05.primenet.com (smtp05.primenet.com [206.165.6.135]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id MAA29852 for ; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:48:36 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp05.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id MAA22864; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:48:40 -0700 (MST) Received: from ip-54-180.scf.primenet.com(206.132.54.180), claiming to be "primenet.com" via SMTP by smtp05.primenet.com, id smtpdAAAmsa4ES; Tue May 16 12:48:25 2000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:54:34 -0700 Message-ID: <3921A778.D9315F85@primenet.com> From: "Mary Irish" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: Judyconrad@aol.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200005161337.GAA16314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailman-Version: 1.0 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 arid_gardener Judy, Regarding your agave many things are possible. Because you say it was wild collected and because Agave parryi is generally found at much higher elevations than Phoenix, it could be a combination of heat and transplant shock. As long as the yellowing and the drying up is of the very oldest leaves only, it is probably temporary and good care will keep the rest of the plant healthy. Your watering is probably a little too much after the first couple of weeks in the ground. Generally, once the agave has been in the ground for a couple of weeks, has been water 2-3 times a week during that time, it can go to no more than once a week watering. AFter the plant is well established and you feel the root system is functioning, it can be watered about every 2 weeks to 10 days in the summer and much less often in the winter. Shade during the first summer is very beneficial. Good luck, mary Judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - --------------9018E962A38DC14056EF460D-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 13:32:13 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:32:13 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Euphorbia tiracalii This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------61BE7D4581484D0E72075181 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------61BE7D4581484D0E72075181 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 24426 invoked by uid 0); 16 May 2000 19:46:10 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (204.147.80.26) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2000 19:46:10 -0000 Received: (qmail 80570 invoked from network); 16 May 2000 19:46:09 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2000 19:46:09 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (Ag.Arizona.Edu [128.196.42.70]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id MAA29434; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:45:39 -0700 (MST) Received: from smtp05.primenet.com (smtp05.primenet.com [206.165.6.135]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.8.7/8.8.8) with ESMTP id MAA29382 for ; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:45:26 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp05.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id MAA21901; Tue, 16 May 2000 12:45:30 -0700 (MST) Received: from ip-54-180.scf.primenet.com(206.132.54.180), claiming to be "primenet.com" via SMTP by smtp05.primenet.com, id smtpdAAAB_a4UQ; Tue May 16 12:45:23 2000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 12:51:35 -0700 Message-ID: <3921A6C6.2A8ABB24@primenet.com> From: "Mary Irish" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: Judyconrad@aol.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.61 [en] (Win98; I) X-Accept-Language: en,pdf MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200005161337.GAA16314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailman-Version: 1.0 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 arid_gardener Judy, I would say that your Euphorbia tiracalii is definitely receiving too much water. The schedule in the back should be sufficient. However, plants which are unaccustomed to the full sun can turn yellow and then sunburn when suddenly placed there, so some shade for the first summer it is in the ground could help. Mary Judyconrad@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a pencil eupnorbia(pencil cactus) and the landscaper connected it to the drip systgem. He said with it getting 3 hours of sun a day it needed water. I have one in the back and I just give it water once a month --It is beautiful. The one just planted and connected to the drip system has yelow at the bottom--shouldn't this be removed from the drip? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - --------------61BE7D4581484D0E72075181-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 13:53:53 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:53:53 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Oleander Tammy: Yes, you can propagate oleander from cuttings. You can view information on how to do this by going to our on-line Master Gardener Manual. Just click on the following address: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html scroll down and you will see "cuttings". This should help you get started. If you have any problems or questions about this procedure, just let me know. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hi Tammy, > > I'm passing your question onto the Arid-gardener board. I'm doing so much > volunteering I don't have as much time to research questions. I'm sure that > oleanders can be propagated via cuttings but someone else may be able to > answer your question before I'll get a chance to do the research. Does your > friend realize that all parts of the oleander are poisonous? Is she > referring to dwarf oleander or standard size? Once this plant is > established, especially the standard size, it is serious work to remove it. > As you can tell this is not one of my favorite plants. > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > Master Gardener > Apache Junction, AZ > > In a message dated 5/3/00 8:08:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > tammy_gomez@hotmail.com writes: > > << Subj: Please help if you can! > Date: 5/3/00 8:08:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time > From: tammy_gomez@hotmail.com (Tammy) > To: JeanSciFi@aol.com > > Hi, my name is Tammy Gomez and I am from Rankin, TX. I take care of an 82 > year old woman that is going blind. She loves the outdoors and really enjoys > being in her yard and out looking at the wild flowers along the roadways, > but recently (approx. 2 or 3 yrs.) she has been having problems with her > eyes and is going blind. She wants to plant more Oleander bushes in her yard > and she wants me to have some also. Someone has told her that we can use the > branches cut from these plants when pruning to grow another bush. Is this > true and if not is there anyway to grow these plants yourself without buying > the bush at a store? > I got your address off of the internet when I was trying to find this > information, I am not real good "surfing" the net so if you are unable to > help me please accept my apology for this e-mail, if you are able to help me > I thank you very much in advance, you will have made the day a little > brighter for a very sweet lady!! Thanks again, Tammy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pippinelf12@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 13:22:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 13:22:15 -0700 (MST) From: pippinelf12@aol.com pippinelf12@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i am moving to ganado, arizona, in 2 weeks & am interested in starting a small vegetable garden there. please offer suggestions for a few easy-to-grow crops suitable to the climate & time of year. (i plan on using no pesticides, so organic gardening info would be especially helpful.) thanks. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue, 16 May 2000 14:29:10 -0700 Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 14:29:10 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Fwd: Avocado Trees >From: "M JOHNSON" >To: >Subject: Avocado Trees >Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:14:35 +1000 >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 > >Carol, > I was searching the web for some information on avocado trees and > came across your e-mail address. I have purchased a haas avocado tree and > I am wondering how tall and wide I should expect it to grow. I live in > Brisbane Australia which has a very humid hot summer and a dry winter > with warm days and cold nights. Also, is there any problem with roots? Do > avocados seek water supplies as figs do? > >I look forward to any information you might have. > >Thanking you in anticipation, > > >Michael Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 20:13:54 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:13:54 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Brown canna leaves Do you garden in the Phoenix, Arizona area? If we have a mild winter, some of the leaves will stay green all winter. I read a couple of years ago that you should cut down the flower stalk (the whole thing, down to about 4-6" from the ground), so that is what I do. I cut off the brown leaves back to the stalk - they are never going to be green again, so I get rid of them. I would imagine the best time for dividing is in the dormant stage - Dec to about March. Val From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 20:40:02 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:40:02 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: tulips I live in the Phoenix, Ariz area so I hope that is where you live also. I have an old Univ of Ariz bulletin on bulbs that was printed in 87. I agree that you will be very disappointed if you plant your tulips for a 2nd year. I have not had any luck with the big daffodils coming back for a 2nd time. The little ones (they may be called narcissus) do the best - the white ones mutliply rapidly and start blooming the last of Dec/Jan. The little yellow ones bloom each year, but don't multiply very rapidly. Here are some of the bulbs that can be planted for spring bloom: Allium (ornamental) - Nov Anenome- Oct 15 to Nov 15 Easter Lily - Sept-Oct Freesia - Oct-Nov Gladiolus - Oct 15 - Dec 30 Iris - Oct 15 - Nov 15 Ranunculus - Oct 15 - Nov 15 Leucojum (snowflake) - Nov Sparaxis - Oct- Nov Watsonia -= Oct-Nov I have grown all of these except the allium and have had good luck. Not all of them, tho, come up a 2nd year. Val From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 20:43:23 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:43:23 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Brown Canna leaves Do you garden in the Phoenix, Arizona area? If we have a mild winter, some of the leaves will stay green all winter. I read a couple of years ago that you should cut down the flower stalk (the whole thing, down to about 4-6" from the ground), so that is what I do. I cut off the brown leaves back to the stalk - they are never going to be green again, so I get rid of them. I would imagine the best time for dividing is in the dormant stage - Dec to about March. Val From J082758@aol.com Tue, 16 May 2000 20:44:35 EDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:44:35 EDT From: J082758@aol.com J082758@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #208 - 5 msgs To Jennifer re the Lacewing insect: When I first moved to Az. 20+ years ago i spent a great deal of time killing the Lacewings from my roses. Much to my chagrin I discovered (belatedly) this insect is quite beneficial! It has a voracious appetite for aphids! Since that discovery I have develped admiration for this lacy winged creature! JB From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 17 May 2000 10:25:54 EDT Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:25:54 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Propagation Oleander Hi Tammy, I got this message from another MG and want to pass it on to you. Hope we have helped. JeanSciFi@aol.com Subj: Oleander cuttings Date: 5/16/00 5:25:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: PlantPerson@prodigy.net (Pauline Marx) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com According to "Secrets of Plant Propagation" by Lewis Hill. : Softwood cuttings taken in the summer root well in water or rooting medium under mist, The top should be pinched off soon after rooting to encourage a bushy growth habit. Cut off a 4-6 inch cutting with a razor or sharp knife. Remove most of the leaves and any flowers or flowering buds. Be sure to not allow it to dry before planting it. Treat it with a rooting hormone. Make a hole in the rooting media with a pencil and insert the cutting Pauline Marx Maricopa County AZ Master Gardener Intern Former NC Master Gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 08:44:12 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 08:44:12 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Propagation Oleander My experience is the leaves on the cutting must be kept green and alive until the roots.form. At this time of the year with the low humidity it is somewhat difficult. One way is misting as Jean recommended. Another is to create a mini greenhouse by placing a canning jar over the cutting - this should be removed occasionally to let it air out to prevent molds. I have also heard one can use clear plastic baggies. I've never tried that but it seems it should work. I would also apply a rooting hormone like Rootone available at garden centers. Air layering is an other method which is nearly 100 per cent successful for propagating oleanders. The method is described briefly at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html and in more detail at http://home.att.net/~millero/airlayering.html Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 7:25 AM Subject: [AG] Propagation Oleander > arid_gardener > Hi Tammy, > > I got this message from another MG and want to pass it on to you. > > Hope we have helped. > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > > > Subj: Oleander cuttings > Date: 5/16/00 5:25:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time > From: PlantPerson@prodigy.net (Pauline Marx) > To: JeanSciFi@aol.com > > According to "Secrets of Plant Propagation" by Lewis Hill. : > Softwood cuttings taken in the summer root well in water or rooting medium > under mist, The top should be pinched off soon after rooting to encourage a > bushy growth habit. > Cut off a 4-6 inch cutting with a razor or sharp knife. Remove most of the > leaves and any flowers or flowering buds. Be sure to not allow it to dry > before planting it. Treat it with a rooting hormone. Make a hole in the > rooting media with a pencil and insert the cutting > Pauline Marx > Maricopa County AZ Master Gardener Intern > Former NC Master Gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From davem9@prodigy.net Wed, 17 May 2000 12:56:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 12:56:45 -0700 (MST) From: davem9@prodigy.net davem9@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted 6 zucchini plants and they have grown quite well and blossemed. The fruit grow to about 4-6 inches long then the ends turn yellow and thats it. In past years I've been quite successful with zucchini. What has gone wrong?? Thank you From stevesandy1@msn.com Wed, 17 May 2000 10:15:15 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 10:15:15 -0700 (MST) From: stevesandy1@msn.com stevesandy1@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dear sirs: We just put a new lawn in our back yard and are having a big problem with birds eating the grass seed. I have put up stakes with tin foil strips in the yard, but they do not keep the birds away. How could we keep the birds out of the yard? Thanks Steve From Runamokdog@aol.com Wed, 17 May 2000 13:04:41 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 13:04:41 -0700 (MST) From: Runamokdog@aol.com Runamokdog@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will astible grow in this climate, provided it is planted in a shady area? From jt.elbracht@gte.net Tue, 16 May 2000 21:25:27 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 21:25:27 -0700 (MST) From: jt.elbracht@gte.net jt.elbracht@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a large (25' tall, 25' canopy, 15" caliper) african sumac tree in our front grass yard at our 40 year old Scottsdale, AZ home. Over the last 12 months, three large limbs (6" caliper) appear to have died with brittle branches and dead leaves on the end of these large limbs. These dead limbs make up about 25% of the overall tree canopy. The rest of the tree seems to be doing ok. Some branches look a little thinner than they used to, but a couple of the large branches seem extremely healthy and are thick with full green leaves. With this background, I have a couple questions. Is our tree diseased and that is why some branches are dying? Is it ok to cut off the major dead branches? Is there something we can do to restore the trees health? We really want to keep this tree, any advice? Thanks. From leoneamerica@azwest.net Tue, 16 May 2000 17:19:16 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 17:19:16 -0700 (MST) From: leoneamerica@azwest.net leoneamerica@azwest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need information on how and when to grow artichokes. I know they are grown in the valley. I just do not know if I can do them by seed and if they are done by plant or seed I need to have a scource to purchase from. I prefer to grow everything by seed if possible. From David.W.Norton@aexp.com Wed, 17 May 2000 06:13:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 06:13:34 -0700 (MST) From: David.W.Norton@aexp.com David.W.Norton@aexp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Two questions: I have a seemingly healthy Jacaranda. It's at least a few years old. 3 inch trunk and and it's 10 to 12 feet tall. It has never bloomed. Is there something I can do to encourage it to bloom or do I have a tree that just doesn't bloom? I'm going to plant two trees this weekend. A Shamel Ash and a Purple Plum. For some reason, when you buy a tree at a nursery, they are 15 feet tall with trunks the size of a quarter. What can I do to help the trees grow larger trunks? Does topping help? Thanks a million! From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Wed, 17 May 2000 04:26:13 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 04:26:13 -0700 (MST) From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net raymond.tierney2@gte.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have several small roots through out my soil in my flower beds. I have had no sucess in removing them. I do add top soil and water well, but wonder if these roots are effecting the growth of my flowers. I also would like to know why when I compare my soil for temperature difference from my flower bed to my vegetable beds that the vegetable soil is warmer? What holds temperature in soil? From tsmalley@gateway.net Wed, 17 May 2000 14:27:55 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 14:27:55 -0700 (MST) From: tsmalley@gateway.net tsmalley@gateway.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an acacia tree approx. 8 years old that is oozing brown sap from a couple of spots on the trunk. Otherwise it appears to be quite healthy. What has caused this and what can I do to treat it if there is a problem? Thank you From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 15:03:31 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 15:03:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree Roots and Soil Temperature Tree feeder roots in flower beds may take up water and nutrients which would otherwise be absorbed by the plants. Whether or not it's a problem would depend on the tree - does it use/need at lot of water or fertilizer. Fertilizing a bit more would help the flowers but could also worsen the tree root situation by stimulating the tree's growth. There are roots from a honey locust tree running through my lawn and into the vegetable garden about 4-6 inches below the surface.. Neither the lawn nor the garden seems to be adversely affected by the roots so I just cut the roots off when they get in the way and don't worry about it. Soil temperature near the surface would be affected by shade, mulch and moisture which is also dependent on the water holding capacity of the soil. At this time of year, vegetables will hold up much better with a mulch over the root area and adequate irrigation. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 4:26 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I have several small roots through out my soil in my flower beds. I have had no sucess in removing them. I do add top soil and water well, but wonder if these roots are effecting the growth of my flowers. I also would like to know why when I compare my soil for temperature difference from my flower bed to my vegetable beds that the vegetable soil is warmer? What holds temperature in soil? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From laguy2@primenet.com Wed, 17 May 2000 15:54:11 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 15:54:11 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Plant ID - Christmas Cactus I have a similar cactus, also a Christmas gift, but the "hair" may not be as long as yours. Called "angel wings" due to the resemblance to its namesake, it was listed as Opuntia microdasys v. albispina [i.e. mini white spines!]. I can't be sure it's the same as yours, though. Why not contact the Desert Botanical Gardens, more of a specialist than are we at this class of plant. Hotline is open M-F 10 to 11:30 am @ 480-941-1225. Linda Guy taman@mdch.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am unable to find the name of a cactus I received as a gift. I know it is of the opuntia family and is called a Christmas Tree Cactus. Not a Christmas Cactus. This one never flowers and grows only to about a height of one foot. It has many 'arms' and the spines resemble hair. Please help if you can. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From pfniobrara@aol.com Wed, 17 May 2000 15:10:50 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 15:10:50 -0700 (MST) From: pfniobrara@aol.com pfniobrara@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm growing Indian corn for the first time. Is there any thing that I have to do, to insure the corn developes good heads of corn. Right now they are about 4 feet tall. I use Mircle grow every 2 weeks. As the silk develops on the corn, is there anything special to do. Thanks for you help. Want to give the corn to my oldest daughter for Thanksgiving. Thanks again. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 15:43:17 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 15:43:17 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Shamel Ash & Purple Plum Trees - Jacaranda Blossoms Topping the ash and plum trees would cause the young trees to bush out from other growing branches and result in an odd-shaped tree so I would not cut off the leaders. When you plant the trees, follow the planting and staking procedures in Publication AZ1022, available on line at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf If you don't have web access, you can order a hard copy of the pub from the cooperative extension office. If it isn't too late, I would reconsider using these two trees. In the low desert, the life of the purple leafed plum is only about 10 years. The Shamel ash is a heavy water user. This may not be a problem if they you receive flood irrigation. It is not uncommon for the Shamel ash to appear to be stressed and appear to decline and shed leaves around late July and August. Adequate fertilization and adequate watering seem to alleviate the problem. We have one about 18 years old which is a great shade tree but it does require care and maintenance. I can't answer the question about Jacaranda blossoms and will also be interested in the replies. We have one about 25 feet tall, also 18 years old, that we grew as a multi-trunked tree. It has only had occasional flower clusters in late spring, sometimes also a few blossoms in the fall. We have tried different watering schedules and different fertilizer types and schedules (including none) but nothing seemed to make any difference. Right now, it has perhaps 3 dozen flower clusters which is the most it has ever had but it still looks sparse for such a large tree. I suspect it was grown from seed and what we see is just genetic variation. Olin Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 6:13 AM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > Two questions: > > I have a seemingly healthy Jacaranda. It's at least a few years old. 3 inch trunk and and it's 10 to 12 feet tall. It has never bloomed. Is there something I can do to encourage it to bloom or do I have a tree that just doesn't bloom? > > I'm going to plant two trees this weekend. A Shamel Ash and a Purple Plum. For some reason, when you buy a tree at a nursery, they are 15 feet tall with trunks the size of a quarter. What can I do to help the trees grow larger trunks? Does topping help? > > Thanks a million! > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 16:09:13 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:09:13 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Artichoke Planting Question from Home-Hort WWW page Artichokes can be grown from seed but there is a lot of variation in the plants and you would need to rouge out those that look more like thistles. It's best if you can get then from the pups from existing plants. There are two types generally available as seeds. Green Globe is the old standby and is grown as a perennial. Imperial Star is rather new - it was developed to be grown as an annual in cooler climates. Last year, a few gardeners tried growing it to see if would perform as an annual or perennial in our climate. Results were mixed. There are some reports of plants yielding a bud last spring, making through the summer okay and are covered with buds this year. Some made it through the summer okay but yield is poor this year and some did not survive the first season. It's probably best to stay with Green Globe unless you like to experiment. Transplants are seldom available as roots locally but you can often buy plants in 4-inch containers at some of the garden centers carrying a more complete selection of locally-adapted vegetable plants (such as Baker's Nursery). You can also buy roots or plants from some catalog sources. They usually ship too late to plant but you can keep them in containers in a cool location the first year and plant the next spring. The officially recommended planting time is March 1 plus/minus a few weeks but they can also be planted in October. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2000 5:19 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I need information on how and when to grow artichokes. I know they are grown in the valley. I just do not know if I can do them by seed and if they are done by plant or seed I need to have a scource to purchase from. I prefer to grow everything by seed if possible. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 16:22:39 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:22:39 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Small Zucchinis May be poor pollination. Squash is insect-pollinated. Hand pollination works well and, with the low bee population in some areas, it is recommended. Some seasons there are also environmental conditions such that the male blossoms are spent before the female blossoms appear. If this happens, the male blossoms can be picked and kept in the refrigerator, then the pollen can be applied when female blossoms appear. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 12:56 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I planted 6 zucchini plants and they have grown quite well and blossemed. The fruit grow to about 4-6 inches long then the ends turn yellow and thats it. In past years I've been quite successful with zucchini. What has gone wrong?? > Thank you > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 17 May 2000 16:53:03 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:53:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Candle cactus yellowing If you have not received a reply to your question, please excuse the delay, we are seriously backlogged here with a small volunteer staff. Generally cactus and succulents are great for near swimming pools because of their lack of debris. Is this plant getting too much water perhaps? Is this a new plant? Sometimes this can be a sign of sunburn. I'd like to refer you to the Desert Botanical Garden's plant question hotline. They specialize in cactus and succulents. They can be reached Monday through Friday between the hours of 10 - 11:30 a.m. at (480) 941-1225 Sue Bass Master Gardener d_sharpe60@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am growing a candle cactus (trichocereus pachanoi) next to my swimming pool and it is not doing well. It is no longer green but yellowing. Could the chlorine fumes from the pool be hurting the cactus? Should I move it to the front yard? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Wed, 17 May 2000 17:06:09 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 17:06:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Suggestions for Low Light Vine? Jim: Had you received a response to your question? We have been very backlogged. I apologize for the delay if you have not received a response. We have had a very good publication available in the past on Landscape Vines for Southern Arizona. It is publication Q302. If you go to the following site, you will find information on how to request this publication. I didn't see it listed on this page but I would contact the Extension office anyway and ask if you can get a copy. You may also be able to view it in the resources area of one of the Maricopa County Library branches. The site is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm. Sue Bass Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > arid_gardener > On the west side of my house there is a wall. I'd like to grow a vine to > cover up the wall. It wont get a lot of light, just when the sun is > directly overhead. > > Any ideas? I'm irrigating with drip. > > - Jim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed, 17 May 2000 17:00:13 -0700 Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 17:00:13 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Corn Culture Pollination will occur over about a 2 week period. I would shake the stalks gently in the early morning while the pollen is still fresh. Each silk represents one kernel and each needs to receive a grain of pollen. Corn is wind pollinated and the pollen from the south and west sides often blows past the silks on these outer stalks so I would pay special attention to ensurethey receive pollen. The soil also tends to dry out faster at these outer rows and watering during the pollination period is important. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, May 17, 2000 3:10 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I'm growing Indian corn for the first time. Is there any thing that I have to do, to insure the corn developes good heads of corn. Right now they are about 4 feet tall. I use Mircle grow every 2 weeks. As the silk develops on the corn, is there anything special to do. Thanks for you help. Want to give the corn to my oldest daughter for Thanksgiving. Thanks again. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > From rena.threlkel@prodigy.net Wed, 17 May 2000 22:22:02 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 22:22:02 -0700 (MST) From: rena.threlkel@prodigy.net rena.threlkel@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Question # 1: Instructions on raising Hibiscus, & what to expect. Question # 2: Same info on Christmas Cactus. Question # 3: We have 3 Saguaros in our yard; how can we tell if they are healthy; & one recently split, splattering 'goop' on block wall; looks bad. We have many varieties of cacti, & would like info on them. Question # 4: Navel orange tree planted in 1991: no fruit until 1995 with 3 delicious fruits. In 1998 & 1999 huge fruit, absolutely tasteless & dry. Now we have lots of small fruit & would like to have more tasty crop next winter. If this needs a phone call rather than E-mail, our # is 623-876-8296. Thank you From alogden@azstarnet.com Thu, 18 May 2000 05:25:37 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 05:25:37 -0700 (MST) From: allen alogden@azstarnet.com Subject: [AG] unscribe unscribe From sparrow424@hotmail.com Wed, 17 May 2000 23:04:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 23:04:47 -0700 (MST) From: sparrow424@hotmail.com sparrow424@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've been given some lemons that I've been told are in the germinating phase. How would I go about getting a tree started from these fruits? From saz621@primenet.com Thu, 18 May 2000 08:04:04 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 08:04:04 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] African sumac Hello, Your tree has the classic symptoms of cotton root rot, also known as Texas root rot. Unfortunately, there is no effective treatment of which I am aware. Yes, you can prune off the branches that are dead but no I do not know what the long term prognosis is for your tree. Mary jt.elbracht@gte.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a large (25' tall, 25' canopy, 15" caliper) african sumac tree in our front grass yard at our 40 year old Scottsdale, AZ home. Over the last 12 months, three large limbs (6" caliper) appear to have died with brittle branches and dead leaves on the end of these large limbs. These dead limbs make up about 25% of the overall tree canopy. The rest of the tree seems to be doing ok. Some branches look a little thinner than they used to, but a couple of the large branches seem extremely healthy and are thick with full green leaves. With this background, I have a couple questions. Is our tree diseased and that is why some branches are dying? Is it ok to cut off the major dead branches? Is there something we can do to restore the trees health? We really want to keep this tree, any advice? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 09:29:05 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 09:29:05 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:African Sumac As an addition to Mary Irish's response to your question, you can view information on Cotton Root Rot (a.k.a. Texas Root Rot) at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener jt.elbracht@gte.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a large (25' tall, 25' canopy, 15" caliper) african sumac tree in our front grass yard at our 40 year old Scottsdale, AZ home. Over the last 12 months, three large limbs (6" caliper) appear to have died with brittle branches and dead leaves on the end of these large limbs. These dead limbs make up about 25% of the overall tree canopy. The rest of the tree seems to be doing ok. Some branches look a little thinner than they used to, but a couple of the large branches seem extremely healthy and are thick with full green leaves. With this background, I have a couple questions. Is our tree diseased and that is why some branches are dying? Is it ok to cut off the major dead branches? Is there something we can do to restore the trees health? We really want to keep this tree, any advice? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Thu, 18 May 2000 11:26:29 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:26:29 -0700 From: Jennifer Kleffner nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #209 - 14 msgs > To JB regarding my lacewing question, note that this is not the beneficial lacewing that is fairly large and eats aphids. My bug (also technically called a lacewing because of the bubbled lacy surface of the wings) is not much bigger than an aphid itself and is definitely eating the plant. There can be up to 50 on a single leaf of a brittle bush or sunflower. Thanks, Jennifer Kleffner > > > Message: 12 > From: J082758@aol.com > Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 20:44:35 EDT > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [AG] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #208 - 5 msgs > > To Jennifer re the Lacewing insect: > > When I first moved to Az. 20+ years ago i spent a great deal of time killing > the Lacewings from my roses. Much to my chagrin I discovered (belatedly) > this insect is quite beneficial! It has a voracious appetite for aphids! > Since that discovery I have develped admiration for this lacy winged creature! > JB > > --__--__-- > From Annisd@az.ngb.army.mil Thu, 18 May 2000 10:07:43 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 10:07:43 -0700 From: Annis, David Annisd@az.ngb.army.mil Subject: [AG] trouble with bees Maybe you can help me with information. I live in North Phoenix (Tatum Ranch), and have a large cluster of honey bees (many thousands) under a protected eave of my house. They have been there since Sunday, day and night, and I want to know what they are doing. Are they trying to build a hive? Are they just resting temporarily? Should I do something with them? They do not seem aggressive, and I have walked past the area (at night) without being attacked. Still, they are only eight feet from my front door, and maybe ten feet from my neighbors side door, and they may yet pose a threat. Is this kind of activity common, or do I have a problem that must be dealt with? Thank you for any help you can provide! An answer by e-mail is fine, or you can call me if you want. Dave Annis 602-267-2974 From RobertFFlowersJR@MSN.com Thu, 18 May 2000 08:59:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 08:59:08 -0700 (MST) From: RobertFFlowersJR@MSN.com RobertFFlowersJR@MSN.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large Cerus Cactus that has developed what appears to be a blotchy grey appearance on sections of the plant. It also seems to have contracted on itself somewhat ( it is not as full as it used to be). Help! Please. From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 11:54:12 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:54:12 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] trouble with bees David: Each spring about half of the work force of a honey bee colony separates from the rest and flies out to form a new colony at a different site. While they are in transition, the bees are called "a swarm". Swarms should be removed immediately by a professional. Check the Yellow Pages under "Bee removal" or "Pest Control" for bee removal services. There is a charge for this service but it is very important that you do not try to do this yourself. You have may heard about the increase in bee attacks this year and even if they have not been acting in an aggressive manner, that could change. Honey bee colonies become more defensive as they increase in size. Good Luck Sue Bass Master Gardener "Annis, David" wrote: > arid_gardener > Maybe you can help me with information. I live in North Phoenix (Tatum > Ranch), and have a large cluster of honey bees (many thousands) under a > protected eave of my house. They have been there since Sunday, day and > night, and I want to know what they are doing. Are they trying to build a > hive? Are they just resting temporarily? Should I do something with them? > They do not seem aggressive, and I have walked past the area (at night) > without being attacked. Still, they are only eight feet from my front door, > and maybe ten feet from my neighbors side door, and they may yet pose a > threat. > > Is this kind of activity common, or do I have a problem that must be dealt > with? > > Thank you for any help you can provide! An answer by e-mail is fine, or you > can call me if you want. > > Dave Annis > 602-267-2974 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 11:58:13 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 11:58:13 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Cerus Cactus problem Robert: I prefer to direct question concerning cactus, particularly diseases, to the Desert Botanical plant hotline as this is their specialty. You can reach them at: 480-941-1225 between 10am - 11:30am, Monday through Friday. Sue Bass Master Gardener RobertFFlowersJR@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a large Cerus Cactus that has developed what appears to be a blotchy grey appearance on sections of the plant. It also seems to have contracted on itself somewhat ( it is not as full as it used to be). Help! Please. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 13:16:08 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 13:16:08 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Hibiscus, Christmas Cactus, Saguaro, Citrus questions With regard to raising Hibiscus, I'd like to direct you to the web site of the American Hibiscus Society. Go to: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ They have everything you ever wanted to know about growing hibiscus. Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera species) - Here is a great page to take a look at with information on growing and what to expect from the National Gardening Association: http://208.156.226.50/articledetails.taf?id=262&kwd=Christmas%20cactus&Articlesstart=1 As for your saguaro, it sounds a lot like bacterial necrosis. We have a fact sheet on line that you can view at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm I do not grow citrus so I am not the best person to answer the citrus question. I will continue to do more research and in the meantime, perhaps one of my colleagues with citrus experience will respond to this question. Sue Bass Master Gardener rena.threlkel@prodigy.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Question # 1: Instructions on raising Hibiscus, & what to expect. > Question # 2: Same info on Christmas Cactus. > Question # 3: We have 3 Saguaros in our yard; how can we tell if they are healthy; & one recently split, splattering 'goop' on block wall; looks bad. > We have many varieties of cacti, & would like info on them. > Question # 4: Navel orange tree planted in 1991: no fruit until 1995 with 3 delicious fruits. In 1998 & 1999 huge fruit, absolutely tasteless & dry. Now we have lots of small fruit & would like to have more tasty crop next winter. > If this needs a phone call rather than E-mail, our # is 623-876-8296. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 13:41:52 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 13:41:52 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Christmas Cactus I wanted to give you a bit more information on the Christmas Cactus. The article I referred you to didn't include what I had expected. My apologies. Christmas Cactus ned bright, indirect light. After flowing, keep the plant barely moist. During its growing period it should be kept moderately moist with moderate humidity. You can apply a high-potash liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks during its growing period. They bloom most often during late winter to early spring. The information in the article I referred you to talks more about what to expect after your first blooming season. Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 18 May 2000 17:26:59 EDT Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 17:26:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Jacaranda not blooming David, The Jacaranda does not bloom for its first few years. I have one planted 5 or 6 years ago and it is just starting to bloom. The tree loves the heat and for best performance it should have full sun. If you live in an area where you have had a hard freeze, the freeze will prevent the tree from blooming. To help the trunk on your newly planted trees gain strength and girth do not prune anything from the trunk except damaged branches for one to two years. Also remove the single stake that is normally tightly tied to the trunk and replace with two stakes located about one foot from the trunk, 180 degrees apart, and tie the tree in only one place high enough up on the trunk so that the top of the tree will not bend down. This allows the trunk to move in the wind and to gain strength and girth. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lreader286@aol.com Thu, 18 May 2000 12:25:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 12:25:48 -0700 (MST) From: lreader286@aol.com lreader286@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've noticed bees pollinating my squash plants this week, but never before over the past 6 years, and I have always pollinated by hand. I'm a little worried about Africanized bees after yesterday's latest attack in Mesa. I live in North Phoenix. What should I look for to determine whether these bees are "safe" or not? From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 15:26:09 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 15:26:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Bees If you see one or two bees pollinating your squash plants you really do not have anything to worry about. I read in the paper recently that a large percentage (I don't remember the exact percent so I won't even try to guess what it was) of the honey bees in Arizona are "Africanized". According to a publication we have on Africanized Honey Bees, publication No. MC 63, away from the hive the Africanized bees are no more aggressive than any other bee or wasp. And I don't think there is an easy way to tell them apart by looking at them. The problem is they defend their hives more diligently. Many more bees will come to the defense of the hive in contrast to the common European honey bees. So unless you have a hive on your property I wouldn't be concerned. Stay away from swarms and if you see them contact a Bee Removal specialist or Pest Control company immediately. You can pick up a copy of our publication by visiting the following site for information, or stop in at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Center at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, for a copy. The number for the office is 602-470-8086. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Individual bees collecting pollen and nectar from flowers should be left alone. Bees are very important pollinators and we have seen a decline in their populations in recent years. Sue Bass Master Gardener Sue Bass Master Gardener lreader286@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I've noticed bees pollinating my squash plants this week, but never before over the past 6 years, and I have always pollinated by hand. I'm a little worried about Africanized bees after yesterday's latest attack in Mesa. I live in North Phoenix. What should I look for to determine whether these bees are "safe" or not? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From blguard@worldnet.att.net Thu, 18 May 2000 15:34:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 15:34:34 -0700 (MST) From: blguard@worldnet.att.net blguard@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. I have an ocotillo that's at least 20 years old and it's always been beautiful and bloomed profusely in the spring. Now it looks yellow and has lost leaves. Should I worry? What should I do. 2. Can young ashes- about 2-3 years old - be topped? They are so top heavy that their young trunks can't hold them up. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu, 18 May 2000 19:13:01 EDT Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 19:13:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Keeping birds off newly seeded turf Steve, I have good luck keeping the birds off newly seeded turf by applying 5 pounds per 1000 square feet of soil sulfur. When water is applied the birds do not like the smell of the sulfuric acid that forms. Good luck. Rod From cheetah_kaj@ev1.net Thu, 18 May 2000 16:15:18 -0700 (MST) Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 16:15:18 -0700 (MST) From: cheetah_kaj@ev1.net cheetah_kaj@ev1.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have moved my plants outside, I have poured bleach down my drains, and I still cant get rid of the gnats! It is making me a crazy woman, they are in every room. worst in kitchen and bathroom. HELP me please to get rid of these things, Kathy From sjbass@uswest.net Thu, 18 May 2000 17:01:32 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 17:01:32 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Yellowing leaves on Hibiscus Pat: This seems to be a very common problem judging from the number of questions coming in on this topic. There are many different things that can cause yellowing of leaves. I have been refering people to the American Hibiscus Society's web site, which addresses the different causes of this and more. You can visit their site at: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ Check out the section headed "Basic Questions and Answers" and you'll see this question addressed. Sue Bass Master Gardener patwolfe@dellnet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My hibiscus has many yellow leaves, with new ones showing every day. Does it need iron? Or what is the cause? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 18 May 2000 21:51:03 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 21:51:03 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Chinese Elm, Yellow Leaves If your sewer cleanout is connected to a municipal sewer system, draining into it should not be a problem if the pool drainage rate did not exceed the flow capacity of the local system. If the cleanout is a part of a septic tank system and the tree is nearby, the system could overflow and contaminate the soil. I would check local codes before draining into a city sewer and would never recommend draining it into a septic tank which could have a maximum tank capacity less than 1.250 gallons. Although it would be connected to a drainage pit, hitting it with 6,500 gallons would result in backup, overflow, or both. The problem might be contamination from pool chemicals but it could also be that irrigation is not uniform or that the roots have encountered a layer of caliche. I would test for water penetration with a narrow rod (# 3 rebar is often used). If you have reason to suspect contamination, water deeply to more than 3 feet deep to leach out the chemicals. If the problem is caliche, it must be removed. It can sometimes be broken up but that is only a temporary solution. There have been about 2 dozen posts to the arid_gardener list about problems with Asian elms. Most are concerned with Texas root rot, leaf skeletonizer beetles, irregular leaf density, improper watering or caliche. With your situation, I would have a certified arborist evaluate it. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We have a Chinese Elm in the back yard. The tree filled out with green leaves and about 4 weeks ago started dropping leaves..a lot of leaves. They are yellow. There is one side of the tree that is not yellow and not dropping leaves. The only unusual event was that right about the same time we had our pool resurfaced and we drained the pool into what I think is a sewer clean out. There was about 6,500 gals. of water drained. I don't know if this had anything to do with the problem at all. It was just a thought. The tree is about 12-15 years old. What can I do to save the tree? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu, 18 May 2000 21:51:31 -0700 Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 21:51:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Pomegranates in OK Some references recommend zone 7 as a limit, others recommend zone 8. We are in zone 9 and not really familiar with what grows well in zone 7. Recommend consulting with your local OK state cooperative extension office. You can post a question to them at http://www.oces.okstate.edu/oces/question.html Good luck, Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, May 01, 2000 6:06 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > arid_gardener > I Live in southern Oklahoma (zone 7) and I just planted 2 pomegrante trees , the nursery I orderded them from said they would do fine in this climat. Im not sure they will from what I have found I need to be in zone 8. Can I do anything to help the trees grow successfully? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 19 May 2000 09:03:35 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:03:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lemons Turning Black The following information was provided by UA citrus specialist, Dr. Glenn Wright. On a small lemon, the tree may set fruit, but not all will survive the typical spring fruit drops. Often, all of the fruit will fall off for the first two years. Fruit may turn black and fall off, especially during the first drop following flowering, especially if exposed to the sun. Otherwise, fruit may turn black and fall off if there has been a freeze event of 28 degrees or less for 6 hours or more. I would expect that this problem will diminish with time, and soon you will have more lemons than you know what to do with! Linda Guy Master Gardener cmslovak@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My lemon tree has bloomed quite nicely since planting last fall. I fertilized it in early Feb. My problem is all the tiny lemons never grew and turned black and hard. What did I do??? What should I do?? > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From davieb@toast.net Fri, 19 May 2000 09:00:59 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:00:59 -0700 (MST) From: davieb@toast.net davieb@toast.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large mesquite tree in my front yard. Since I moved into my house three years ago, bermuda grass has been patchy or non-existent underneath this tree. I've been told that bermuda won't grow because of the shade; I've also been told that nothing will grow under this tree because of all the stuff it drops. Is there any grass that will grow underneath this tree? If grass won't grow, is there any ground cover that will grow under this tree? It's my front yard; all the neighbor's yards look nice and all the dirt under this tree looks really run-down. Any suggestions are welcome. From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 19 May 2000 09:17:51 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:17:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Avocado Trees We normally refer questions on avocados to our local chapter of the Rare Fruit Growers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm There is an email address for you to correspond with. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ Carol Noyes wrote: > arid_gardener > > >From: "M JOHNSON" > >To: > >Subject: Avocado Trees > >Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:14:35 +1000 > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 > > > >Carol, > > I was searching the web for some information on avocado trees and > > came across your e-mail address. I have purchased a haas avocado tree and > > I am wondering how tall and wide I should expect it to grow. I live in > > Brisbane Australia which has a very humid hot summer and a dry winter > > with warm days and cold nights. Also, is there any problem with roots? Do > > avocados seek water supplies as figs do? > > > >I look forward to any information you might have. > > > >Thanking you in anticipation, > > > > > >Michael > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U > of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 19 May 2000 09:21:02 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:21:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gardenia questions from Philadelphia Your needs will be better served by your own local county cooperative extension office, whose phone number is found in the government listings of the phone book. Your plants requirements will be dramatically different from our zone 9 low desert environment. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ "Samuel F. Rowen" wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in the city of Philadelphia, PA and have a large gardenia plant in a > large planter inside the house. I realize it needs special care re the > temperature and watering. I bought it about 3 weeks ago. Since then it > has had 3-4 blooms. However, the leaves are turning yellow and falling > off. I keep the soil moist but not wet/soggy. It does not get any direct > sun or sun light. The questions I have, is why are the leaves turning > yellow? Can I take the plant outside on the deck? Can I leave it out > there all winter? Can it take direct sun? I would appreciate your > expertise very much. Thanks. Ruth Rowen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 19 May 2000 09:28:01 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:28:01 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Survival of the Fittest? Culling the Herd? I think its because a more vigorous specimen has more to spare and is in equilibrium with its ecosystem, i.e. give 'n' take. Less healthy plants have little to give beyond their own survival, and perhaps the pests do the environment a favor by destroying less viable candidates for the next season. In any event, we always tell folks that their best defense against heat, disease and pest stressors are well maintained plants. It's the same with you......why do you pick up fewer 'bugs' when your system is less stressed and your immune system is healthier? Or why is a car more apt to break down when it hasn't had a regular course of maintenance? Linda Guy Master Gardener cbundy@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > WHY DO HEALTHY PLANTS have FEW PEST PROBLEMS > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri, 19 May 2000 09:30:08 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:30:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Turf Options for Shade I recently replied to a similar question. You can see the answer in the archives, accessed from the same page where you placed the question. http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001495.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener davieb@toast.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a large mesquite tree in my front yard. > Since I moved into my house three years ago, > bermuda grass has been patchy or non-existent > underneath this tree. I've been told that > bermuda won't grow because of the shade; I've > also been told that nothing will grow under > this tree because of all the stuff it drops. > Is there any grass that will grow underneath this > tree? > If grass won't grow, is there any ground > cover that will grow under this tree? > It's my front yard; all the neighbor's yards > look nice and all the dirt under this tree > looks really run-down. > Any suggestions are welcome. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri, 19 May 2000 10:38:11 -0700 Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 10:38:11 -0700 From: Chris Jones ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Avocado Trees Michael, I've lived in Samoa and Guatemala and have some experience with avocadoes. I'm by no means an expert and a response from the Rare Fruit Growers would be best. However, your most limiting factor with tropical trees is your extreme cold, as you are able to irrigate as necessary. If your winter nights drop down much below 50 Fahrenheit, you are probably stretching your chances. If you get any freezing nights, I wouldn't even plant it outdoors unless you have some kind of warm microclimate to prevent freezing. Most mature avocadoes I have seen do have roots on the surface, so I would recommend planting it no closer than 25' to a structure or septic/leachfield system. The main thing with tropical plants is to have fun. Getting something unusual to grow is always satisfying. Also, see if Rare Fruit Growers has anything to say about pollination, if I recall some varieties are monoecious and produce better with others in proximity. Good luck. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (520) 425-7179 FAX: (520) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda A. Guy Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 9:18 AM To: Carol Noyes Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [AG] Avocado Trees arid_gardener We normally refer questions on avocados to our local chapter of the Rare Fruit Growers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm There is an email address for you to correspond with. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Phoenix, AZ Carol Noyes wrote: > arid_gardener > > >From: "M JOHNSON" > >To: > >Subject: Avocado Trees > >Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:14:35 +1000 > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 > > > >Carol, > > I was searching the web for some information on avocado trees and > > came across your e-mail address. I have purchased a haas avocado tree and > > I am wondering how tall and wide I should expect it to grow. I live in > > Brisbane Australia which has a very humid hot summer and a dry winter > > with warm days and cold nights. Also, is there any problem with roots? Do > > avocados seek water supplies as figs do? > > > >I look forward to any information you might have. > > > >Thanking you in anticipation, > > > > > >Michael > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U > of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From ekrasin@uswest.net Fri, 19 May 2000 13:56:35 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 13:56:35 -0700 (MST) From: ekrasin@uswest.net ekrasin@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We took out Ruellia plants and put Lantana in their place, but we cannot seem to get rid of the Ruellia shoots. Any suggestions? From stuvwxyz@ozemail.com.au Sat, 20 May 2000 07:04:48 +1000 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:04:48 +1000 From: M JOHNSON stuvwxyz@ozemail.com.au Subject: [AG] Avocado Trees Thank you Chris for the information on Avocado trees. We occasionally have frosts in the western suburbs of Brisbane (down to 3 degrees celsius) but only up to 1 metre from the ground. The tree I bought will be taller than this by next winter so I will keep it potted until then. It is a shame that I live in an area with such a tropical environment for most of the year, but that suffers the cold from the desert interior in winter. Thanks again for the trouble you took in replying to my question. Michael. ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Jones To: ; Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 3:38 AM Subject: RE: [AG] Avocado Trees > Michael, I've lived in Samoa and Guatemala and have some experience with > avocadoes. I'm by no means an expert and a response from the Rare Fruit > Growers would be best. > > However, your most limiting factor with tropical trees is your extreme cold, > as you are able to irrigate as necessary. If your winter nights drop down > much below 50 Fahrenheit, you are probably stretching your chances. If you > get any freezing nights, I wouldn't even plant it outdoors unless you have > some kind of warm microclimate to prevent freezing. > > Most mature avocadoes I have seen do have roots on the surface, so I would > recommend planting it no closer than 25' to a structure or septic/leachfield > system. > > The main thing with tropical plants is to have fun. Getting something > unusual to grow is always satisfying. Also, see if Rare Fruit Growers has > anything to say about pollination, if I recall some varieties are monoecious > and produce better with others in proximity. > > Good luck. > > Christopher Jones, Extension Agent > Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs > > The University of Arizona > Gila County Cooperative Extension > 1177 Monroe Street > Globe, AZ 85501 > > Ph: (520) 425-7179 > FAX: (520) 425-0265 > E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu > > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda A. Guy > Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 9:18 AM > To: Carol Noyes > Cc: Arid gardener server > Subject: [AG] Avocado Trees > > > arid_gardener > We normally refer questions on avocados to our local chapter of the Rare > Fruit > Growers at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm > > There is an email address for you to correspond with. Good luck! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > Phoenix, AZ > > > Carol Noyes wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > > > >From: "M JOHNSON" > > >To: > > >Subject: Avocado Trees > > >Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 07:14:35 +1000 > > >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 > > > > > >Carol, > > > I was searching the web for some information on avocado trees > and > > > came across your e-mail address. I have purchased a haas avocado tree > and > > > I am wondering how tall and wide I should expect it to grow. I live in > > > Brisbane Australia which has a very humid hot summer and a dry winter > > > with warm days and cold nights. Also, is there any problem with roots? > Do > > > avocados seek water supplies as figs do? > > > > > >I look forward to any information you might have. > > > > > >Thanking you in anticipation, > > > > > > > > >Michael > > > > Carol Noyes > > Administrative Secretary > > Maricopa County > > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > > > Have a wonderful day!! > > > > ~ U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U > > of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - > > From S17JD@GTE.net Fri, 19 May 2000 14:15:32 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 14:15:32 -0700 (MST) From: S17JD@GTE.net S17JD@GTE.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, Four Questions,please: 1.We have 4 Queen palms that were planted last November. They are around four feet tall. They are growing fine. When & How much do I prune? 2.When is the best time of year to cut back Verbena,African Daisies, etc? 3.Our Lemon tree has pests. The leaves are being eaten. The bugs look like army bugs(?).What is the best way to treat this? 4.We have some Blackfooted Daisies. I would like to plant something compariable---small, flowering, to fit into a front yard,low water landscaping. Suggestions? Thank You for your time, Greg Babicka From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri, 19 May 2000 18:36:16 EDT Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 18:36:16 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Ocotillo not blooming The Ocotillo can exist on very little water , but if you want it to bloom it must be watered several times a year. This year has been exceptionally dry so I suggest water. It is not recommended to top young or any tree for that matter. If the trunk will not support itself then the tree should be staked with two sturdy stakes about 12 to 18 inches from the trunk, 180 degrees apart. Then tie the tree in one location only, such that the top will remain upright. Excessive top growth can be caused by applying too much fertilizer . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 07:33:52 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:33:52 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Peachtree Problems Mike, Dr. Glenn Wright suggests you contact Mary Olsen or Mike Kilby at the U. of A.with this problem. Sorry that I've no other input. Linda mhills_sro@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > RE: Peach Tree problems > A friend in Ahwatukee, Arizona stumped me this April with a problem on her Red Haven Peach Tree. Thought I'd try posting this question to see if any of you have ideas for her to try. > > This is her second peach tree in 3 years to go down this same road. The other tree is about 50 feet away from this one, was a different variety and ended up dying completely after 2 years of wasting away. > > The second tree is about 7 years old, with a 7-8 inch diameter trunk and is about 18 feet tall. Has been an excellent yielder in past - last good harvest was 1998. The 1999 peach crop was very small on this tree, with many of the peaches mummifying on the tree. This spring, the tree barely came out of dormancy - all twigs and branches are pliable, but there are only about 50 leaves on the entire tree and maybe 5 blossoms. My friend Chere is most concerned about the balls of sap all over the main trunk, as well as any side branches of an inch or larger. Don't see cracks in the bark or anything similar, just lots of large hardened balls of sap that started showing up this past Fall. > > The tree is well cared for - good pruning practices, plenty of water, rich soil and well-fertilized. Chere is a University of Arizona Ag College major, but tree diseases are outside her specialty. > > Any ideas? If so, is it contagious and does she need to worry about other nearby trees - peach, plum, fig and ash? > > Mike Hills > Phoenix, Arizona > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 07:42:36 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:42:36 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pomegranates We have a chapter on Fruit Trees in the Master Gardener Manual, available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html Deep irrigation, appropriate ferilization and sound pruning practices, all of which you can find here, should help your fruiting. Notes from my old MG class years ago suggest that these are one of the few deciduous trees that are not susceptible to Texas root rot. Hope you enjoy your tree! Our neighbor has one and my kids have enjoyed them over the years. Linda Guy Master Gardener puzzleboard@yahoo.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a Pomagranate tree in my backyard. We planted it a year ago. The first fruit was very poor, very dry, quite frankly it was no good to eat. The tree is now in it's 2nd blooming and fruit is set on the tree. What should I be doing to assure good fruit this season. The tree was in bloom when we purchased it & it was in a 5 gal.container. So was fairly good size. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 07:49:14 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:49:14 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Verbena Drying Out There are a number of varieties of verbena [I assume we are not speaking of the class of herb, Aloysia], and some are short-lived perennials that are usually grown as annuals. I would suggest you read the relevant material in the Sunset Western Garden book, p. 517, and determine which variety you have, as well as its specific needs and longevity. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > My verbena is drying out. It is getting enough water, but the plants seem to have a short life span....1 - 2 seasons. They have Western exposure, good drainage....any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 08:03:33 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:03:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Grapefruit Disease Mr. Hanson, I am not a citrus expert, but have been going through some old material I've received in the Master Gardener Program. We often run into a disease called brown rot or foot rot gummosis, which is described, including treatment, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/phytop.htm But your situation appears different. In an old publication, I found a reference to Rio Grande Gummosis which seems to confront very mature grapefruit trees. It is usually confined to the limgs and crotches, with gumming occuring with noticeable bark separation but no lateral bark rotting from the point of origin. However, I saw no reference to the white canker you are experiencing. I can't find a treatment listed for this, except removal of dried gum. The paper says that the trees may appear yellow and unhealthy while gumming but that they seldom die. I'm hoping that in posting this response, someone else will have additional information to volunteer for you. The only other suggestion that I have is to bring a sample of the damage to the Cooperative Extension Office for diagnosis by staff and volunteers at their weekly meeting (early Friday morning, but you don't have to be there). Address is 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix. Linda Guy Master Gardener Roland.Hanson@asu.edu wrote: > arid_gardener > We have an older grapefruit tree (probably 45 years old) It is sort of dying from the top with the bark either peeling off dry or else a sort of white canker developing in large areas on the bark. Probably this is a sign that the tree is just getting too old and will die. We have pruned off quite a bit but most of the top of the tree is gone. Is there anything to do or should one just cut out the tree and start over. We have an irrigated lot in Tempe. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 08:08:32 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:08:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Citrus Bark Chewed Off I would suggest a tree wrap that you can purchase at most garden supply places. This keeps out insects/disease better than simply painting the now exposed trunk. Linda Guy Master Gardener jbbell310@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Our new puppy chewed most of the bark off of a two year old orange tree, one major branch has died. will the entire tree die? can I paint over this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Sat, 20 May 2000 08:23:23 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 08:23:23 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Lace Bugs vs. Lace Wings [I hope I've reached the correct party...if not, I'd ask that whoever fielded this question last week pass it along!] Having looked at this issue some time ago, I scoured my library and found a reference to a leaf/stem pest called lace bug that is white to pale brown, 1/8" long, boxy-shaped and sporting transparent lace wings. Management includes plucking heavily infested leves, using a jet of soapy water, using insecticidal soap sprays, and finally contact insecticides containing pyrethrum, malathion, diazinon, carbaryl or acephate. Getting at the leaf undersides is important. I found all this information on p. 174 of the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver. You can look at the picture and see if its the same critter on your brittlebush. Another option is to take samples down to the Cooperative Extension Office for the weekly diagnostic meeting. Linda Guy Master Gardener From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sat, 20 May 2000 13:52:39 EDT Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 13:52:39 EDT From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rhubarb An acquaintance of mine grew rhubarb in Phoenix, once. I think she planted it in the fall and they had a couple batches to eat, but it didn't survive our summer. Val From thewaxs@aol.com Sat, 20 May 2000 09:34:22 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 09:34:22 -0700 (MST) From: thewaxs@aol.com thewaxs@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do we get our Jacaranda to bloom? It has been in the ground for almost 5 years with new growth on all branches. From joyzam@sedona.net Fri, 19 May 2000 17:41:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 17:41:08 -0700 (MST) From: joyzam@sedona.net joyzam@sedona.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Sedona and have an old pear tree...today I found a small redish worm and many black spots on the leaves...as well as a green and a black very small worm (resembled a tadpole)... what is this? We dislike using insectisides...will this harm the fruit? we appreciate any information you may have for us...someone said it was a pear slug but no other information...Thank you From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 20 May 2000 16:44:47 -0700 Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 16:44:47 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Pests on Pears I could not find information to match up with your small reddish worm. I'm hoping that one of my fellow Master Gardeners will have insight on that one. The small worm resembling a tadpole that you mentioned sounds like the larvae of a sawfly, one of which is known as the pear slug. I found a photo that matched your description in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, on page 187. The book mentions that pear slug larvae chew and skeletonize the foliage, starting with new growth, then moving on to older leaves. It states that no prevention measures are recommended. As for management, the book states that sawflies have a large number of natural enemies, including birds, predaceous beetles, viruses, and native parasitoid wasps, which are usually able to manage this pest. Larvae on pear trees can be hand-picked, washed off the leaves, or killed by spraying with insecticidal soap. Dusting leaves with wood ash will also kill pear slugs. No chemical insecticides are recommended for home use. Sue Bass Master Gardener joyzam@sedona.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We live in Sedona and have an old pear tree...today I found a small redish worm and many black spots on the leaves...as well as a green and a black very small worm (resembled a tadpole)... what is this? We dislike using insectisides...will this harm the fruit? we appreciate any information you may have for us...someone said it was a pear slug but no other information...Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From bteagle@worldnet.att.net Sat, 20 May 2000 16:24:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 16:24:48 -0700 (MST) From: bteagle@worldnet.att.net bteagle@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted red potatoes for the first time last October. They are still green and growing. How do I know when they are ready to harvest except to dig up a plant or two as a sample? From twozonies@aol.com Sat, 20 May 2000 18:03:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 18:03:29 -0700 (MST) From: twozonies@aol.com twozonies@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I've noticed a white fuzzy chenille like substance on the stems of many of my plants (penstemmons especially, but also my cenizo & mexican blue sage bushes, mexican primrose, verbena). I usually just cut off the affected area, but this year is is unusually heavy & has covered many of my smaller plants. The penstemmons seen to exude sap, which turns ink black where affected. I haven't observed any ozzing on the other plants. I'm worried about my perennials and shrubs. What is it/what to do? From Mama_Cupani@juno.com Sat, 20 May 2000 18:49:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 18:49:29 -0700 (MST) From: Mama_Cupani@juno.com Mama_Cupani@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I believe we have a very serious infestation of spider mites. We have many palo verdes, some of which seem to be totally engulfed in webs and dying. We have a well and too many tree to hose them all off on a regular basis, which is the only suggestion I have had to-date. Is there anything you can recommend? Any predator that might survive our climate? I appreciate any help you can give me with this problem. Thank you. Shirley Cupani From copprst8@earthlink.net Sun, 21 May 2000 06:45:12 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 06:45:12 -0700 (MST) From: copprst8@earthlink.net copprst8@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Apricot Tree this is the second year for fruit I noticed couple days ago the fruit had like sugar crystles on it I tasted it and it is not sweet can anyone tell me what is the matter and should I be concerened Lloyd et From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 16:17:03 EDT Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 16:17:03 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Web Worm Palo Verde Hi Shirley, It sounds more like web worm then spider mites. We have heard that web worms are prevalent this year on Palo Verde trees. Breaking up the webbing with water jets may help. My resource also mentions one can spray or dust with the microbial control Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). Spray severely infested trees with an insecticide containing diazinon, arbaryl, or malathion, applied according to directions on the label. You can find other comments on this problem in the arid_gardener archives. You can find the archives at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/20/00 6:59:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Mama_Cupani@juno.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 5/20/00 6:59:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: Mama_Cupani@juno.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I believe we have a very serious infestation of spider mites. We have many palo verdes, some of which seem to be totally engulfed in webs and dying. We have a well and too many tree to hose them all off on a regular basis, which is the only suggestion I have had to-date. Is there anything you can recommend? Any predator that might survive our climate? I appreciate any help you can give me with this problem. Thank you. Shirley Cupani >> From redata@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 12:54:45 -0700 (MST) Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 12:54:45 -0700 (MST) From: redata@aol.com redata@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Roses, Phoenix, AZ. Is there a right/wrong side of a house to plant roses? Can they do okay next to a block wall? Are climbers efficient for Phoenix,AZ? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 16:33:38 EDT Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 16:33:38 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Astilbe In a message dated 5/17/00 1:17:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Runamokdog@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, Astilbe are not recommended for desert environments. I don't believe the shade will allow them to make it thru our summer heat. (They need cool, moist, soil rich in humus.) JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ Date: 5/17/00 1:17:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: Runamokdog@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Will astible grow in this climate, provided it is planted in a shady area? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 16:57:26 EDT Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 16:57:26 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Lemon tree from seed Hello, Yes, you can get lemons on such a tree. The problem is that you have no idea if they will be as good as either parent since the seed carries genetic traits of both parents. Sometimes you get a winner, other times a dud. Jean SciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/11/00 9:21:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time, brookcarey@earthlink.net writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 5/11/00 9:21:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time From: brookcarey@earthlink.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener I sprouted a lemon seed and it is growing well. When it matures, can a lemon tree from seed make fruit? >> From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 19:14:35 EDT Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 19:14:35 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Planting Roses Roses planted in the low desert here in and around Phoenix will do better if planted on the East side of the house where they will receive a half day of sunshine and have afternooon shade. Beside a block wall is ok provided that it is not on the west side of the wall where the rose would get the hot PM sun plus the reflected heat from the wall. Climbing roses do very well here. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun, 21 May 2000 19:14:36 EDT Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 19:14:36 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Jacaranda not blooming The Jacaranda does not bloom for its first few years. I have one planted 5 or 6 years ago and it is just starting to bloom. The tree loves the heat and for best performance it should have full sun. If you live in an area where you have had a hard freeze, the freeze will prevent the tree from blooming. Good luck. Rod From bixbya@missouri.edu Mon, 22 May 2000 08:04:08 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:04:08 -0700 (MST) From: bixbya@missouri.edu bixbya@missouri.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lime tree which is in a pot that stays indoors in the winter and comes outdoors for the summer. This last winter I noticed that it was dipping a sticky sap onto the floor. I think it might be related to the brown spots that have appeared on the leaves. These brown ovals about 1/8 inch long can be easily scraped off with a fingernail and do not appear to move. I cannot tell if they are a disease, an insect in an egg or larval stage or what? Can you help me? From ruskinl@aol.com Mon, 22 May 2000 08:45:14 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:45:14 -0700 (MST) From: ruskinl@aol.com ruskinl@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Two ironwood trees in front of home we purchased two years ago. One tree appears quite healthy, the other tree looks like it is dying. Two opinions have been given by landscapers: too much water and too little water coupled with mistletoe. Not sure what to do at this point. Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon, 22 May 2000 17:26:55 EDT Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:26:55 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Desert Ironwood is unhealthy To answer the question about watering your Ironwood tree I'll need to know the irrigation amount and interval. The mistletoe can eventually kill the tree if nothing is done to control it. The only control for the mistletoe is to keep it continually pruned off the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From maryb@festivalofthewest.com Mon, 22 May 2000 13:59:36 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:59:36 -0700 (MST) From: maryb@festivalofthewest.com maryb@festivalofthewest.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have what appear to be white flies on the stems of my cucumber plants? Should I do something to get rid of them? If so, what? I do not like using pesticides. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Mon, 22 May 2000 19:26:23 EDT Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 19:26:23 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Persian Rose Beetle Hello, I talked with the entomologist out at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum and she was not familiar with this beetle. It evidently is not a problem here in the low desert valley of Phoenix. I suggest that you contact your local agriculture agency. I would imagine they would be knowledgeable about this beetle since they were probably aware of its importation. They might even appreciate the information about it interfering with herbs. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ n a message dated 5/15/00 4:34:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time, loopylu62@hotmail.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 5/15/00 4:34:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: loopylu62@hotmail.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener i live in southern israel and i have a big problem with the persian rose beetle (imported for the control of mosquitos). They are eating my herbs, esp. my basil and nobody seems to know how to control them, or at least what they do not like. If anybody has any information on this i would be very grateful. They are little brown beetles which come out at night in the summer. From candscamp@aol.com Fri, 26 May 2000 16:52:33 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 16:52:33 -0700 (MST) From: candscamp@aol.com candscamp@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two questions: 1.) I just purchased an old house and I want to get rid of the oleanders. Any tips? 2.) I planted a salvia greggi a week ago and it is starting to look droopy and a few leaves have turned brown and fallen. What should I do? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat, 27 May 2000 19:07:15 EDT Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 19:07:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Yellow Oleander leaves Yellow leaves on plants can be caused by either over or under watering plus other items. However in this case I suspect that you may not be giving the tree enough water. If you have several drippers located near the dripline of the tree and the water is penetrating to three feet deep then my guess is wrong and we need to look for something else that is causing the yellow leaves and the leaf drop. Your irrigation interval is ok, but I would be setting the interval at about every 10 days for summer watering. Please let me know what you are now doing. Good luck. Rod From sjbass@uswest.net Sat, 27 May 2000 20:19:04 -0700 Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 20:19:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm The Sago Palm is a "Palm-like" plant but not actually a palm. It is a cycad. It is slow growing, and produces new leaves only once a year. What are your watering practices? The Sago Palm is a medium to high water use plant. It requires good quality garden soil and regular irrigation for best growth and appearances. Our publication, Arizona Landscape Palms, recommends fertilizing established plams using a "palm special" fertilizer that contains about 3 times as much nitrogen and potassium as phosphorus (the first and third numbers on the are approximately 3 times the middle number), plus Mg and micronutrients. Look for a product that suplies 10-20% N, 5% P, and 10-20% K (roughly equal to N) and also includes 1-3% Mg, .5% Mn, .5% Fe, and S, Zn, Cu, and B (Micronutrients that are often lacking). apply this product to palms after their first established summer, following directions on the label for the tree's size. Spread the product under the canopy (avoiding the area next to the trunk) in mid spring and again in early summer. Water thoroughly to a 2ft depth. You can view the above mentioned publication on palms at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener timster69@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My sago palm is in a shaded area near my front entry, in a gravel yard.It leafed the first year this year nothing, but the old fronds are still green. Does it need something for growth stimulation? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From alice.terry@juno.com Sat, 27 May 2000 18:02:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Sat, 27 May 2000 18:02:30 -0700 (MST) From: alice.terry@juno.com alice.terry@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I propagate bougainvila? I took some cuttings late April and put in damp potting soil, but I don't think they are rooting: however, there are little green leaves showing. How long would it take to start roots? Did I try the wrong time of year? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sun, 28 May 2000 11:22:27 EDT Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 11:22:27 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm seeds Hello George, Did you know that the Sago Palm is not a true palm but is a primitive, cone-bearing plant related to conifers called Cycad. I think if you watch the Sago palm that did grow from the seed you will see that it makes offsets (a new plant attached to the parent). You can propagate another sago palm in this manner. I've never seen the seeds produced by this plant but then I've never really looked for them. You see sago palms for sale in all the nurseries here in the valley (Phoenix). You might try some of the large nursery catalogue companies you can find on line. I'm posting your letter on the arid gardener in case others might want to give you more information. Hope this helps. JeanScifi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/25/00 10:15:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gferrera@labelsysinc.com writes: << Subj: Sago Palm seeds Date: 5/25/00 10:15:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time From: gferrera@labelsysinc.com (George Ferrera) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com Hello: Several years ago I visited Florida. On a whim I bought 2 walnut sized seeds not knowing exactly what they were, I planted them both, but only one took root. As it turned out it grew into a beautiful palm, and only recently did I find the plants name is a "sago palm" I would love to get some more of these seeds... do you know where I can purchase them? I have traveled to Florida and Georgia several times since on business, but have not been able to find them. I live in Connecticut, and if you can provide me with a store or web page I can refer to I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you, for any information you can provide gferrera@labelsysinc.com From kaasa@msn.com Mon, 29 May 2000 07:23:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 07:23:48 -0700 (MST) From: kaasa@msn.com kaasa@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The Phoenix Republic recently said, "...master gardener has a wealth of information on lawn care." I can't find it on your web site. Can you please help? Thanks. Gordon Kaasa (602) 954-5010 From RG00007@aol.com Mon, 29 May 2000 10:00:47 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 10:00:47 -0700 (MST) From: RG00007@aol.com RG00007@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are building a new home in N. Peoria which should be completed in late September and I am at a loss as to where to begin our landscaping. We currently live in Ohio. We have a large lot...backyard stretches 85 feet from the back of your house. Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated as to plant type and landscape ideas. Will probably have desert landscape in the front, but part desert/grass in the back. Thanks for any information you can send me...Sandy From wwoody@uswest.net Sun, 28 May 2000 21:17:36 -0700 Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 21:17:36 -0700 From: Bill Woody wwoody@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Growing blackberries We have a few blackberry vines in Phoenix which we tenderly care for. Haven't found much information, but one source said to tip prune (break the ends off) the canes between June and September. Should we tip prune the laterals as well? We had good success tip-rooting both canes and laterals earlier this year. Now new plants have grown from those roots; however, they are thin-stemmed and spindly. Any advice on helping them develop into sturdy canes? Thanks for any guidance or direction to authorities in other states. Bill Woody wwoody@phnx.uswest.net From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 29 May 2000 10:43:16 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 10:43:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Lawn Care information on Web Site There are a few places you can get information on lawn care at our web site. One spot is under "Publications". You can find our Master Gardener Manual on line. Here is the direct route to get to this specific information: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Another spot where you can find monthly tips on lawn care is under "Timely Tips". You will find this topic on the left-hand side of the screen at the web site. There is always a section on turf each month. Also under "Publications", if you go "Maricopa County", you will find lists of publications available for a very small fee ($1.00 per publication) through the cooperative extension office. There are also a few that are on line. You can go directly to this location at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener kaasa@msn.com wrote: > arid_gardener > The Phoenix Republic recently said, "...master gardener has a wealth of information on lawn care." > > I can't find it on your web site. Can you please help? > > Thanks. > > Gordon Kaasa (602) 954-5010 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 29 May 2000 11:09:51 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 11:09:51 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Growing blackberries Bill: I do not have personal experience growing blackberries, however, I can point you to a publication which you might be able to pick up from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. It is called, Growing Blackberries in the Low Desert and it is by Glenn C. Wright of the Department of Plant Services, U. of A., Yuma Mesa Agricultural Center in Yuma. This publication is the result of a study conducted to prove that Blackberries could be grown in Southern Arizona. The publication includes fertilization and pruning, as well as irrigation. You can contact the Cooperative Extension office at 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040, (602) 470-8086 to find out if they have a copy of this publication available. If they do not, please let me know. You can also view in our archives the response that Terry Mikel gave to a question on fertilizing blackberries. It can be seen at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/0748.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Bill Woody wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a few blackberry vines in Phoenix which we tenderly care for. > Haven't found much information, but one source said to tip prune (break > the ends off) the canes between June and September. Should we tip prune > > the laterals as well? > > We had good success tip-rooting both canes and laterals earlier this > year. Now new plants have grown from those roots; however, they are > thin-stemmed and spindly. Any advice on helping them develop into > sturdy canes? > > Thanks for any guidance or direction to authorities in other states. > > Bill Woody > wwoody@phnx.uswest.net > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 29 May 2000 11:49:29 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 11:49:29 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re:Planning a New Landscape Sandy: What a great time to have your house completed! Summer will be winding down and fall is a great time to do planting here. There are many resources for you to use in planning your future yard. One place to start is our web site. If you haven't visited it, take your time and browse around. You will find it at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ The site includes a monthly "Timely Tips" which points out things that should be done each month of the year. It includes "do's" and "don'ts" as well as commonly asked asked questions. Our site also includes a list of publications that are available. You can go directly to this site by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Be sure to check out the section entitled, "Events". It is regularly updated and includes classes for homeowners. Past classes have included irrigation, planting a lawn, perrenials, annuals, vegetable gardening and more. The section entitled, "Recommended Reading" is most helpful. One section is entitled, References for Landscape Design, Installation and Management in the Low Desert. You can go directly to this page by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-land.htm. This page refers to excellent books and publications available. Another great source of information is the Desert Botanical Garden. We moved here from Illinois about 5 years ago and it was helpful for me to visit the garden and see what types of plants do well here. Here is their website: http://www.dbg.org/ They also offer excellent classes for homeowners and you can view these on their calendar of events. More gardens to visit for inspiration are listed in the "Links" section of the web site. Be sure to visit the section of the website with information on the upcoming Western Regional Master Gardener Conference which is being joined this year by the Southwestern Low Desert Gardening and Landscaping Conference. Homeowners are invited to attend and it promises to provide lots of educational opportunities. It will take place October 14-16 in Mesa. Now that I've probably overloaded you with information, just take advantage of the time you have before your house is complete to get a look any books or publications you can get your hands on to familiarize yourself with growing conditions of the low desert. It is so very different from gardening in the midwest but it is also very rewarding once you understand the differences in growing seasons and the types of plants and grasses that thrive here. Feel free to contact us for help with any questions you may have. We'll do our best to point you in the right direction. Sue Bass Master Gardener RG00007@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We are building a new home in N. Peoria which should be completed in late September and I am at a loss as to where to begin our landscaping. We currently live in Ohio. We have a large lot...backyard stretches 85 feet from the back of your house. Any information you can give me would be greatly appreciated as to plant type and landscape ideas. Will probably have desert landscape in the front, but part desert/grass in the back. Thanks for any information you can send me...Sandy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From joanne_szymanski@hotmail.com Mon, 29 May 2000 11:39:49 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 11:39:49 -0700 (MST) From: joanne_szymanski@hotmail.com joanne_szymanski@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 hibiscus plants side by side, yellow and red blooms respectively. I planted them just last year. Unfortunately, the yellow plant has been having trouble blooming and just recently started having the leaves turn spotty yellow and drop. I don't know if this is fungus, root rot or too much salt in the soil. I've added some acidifier in the soil, and washed heavily to drop the salts, but nothing seems to help. I've also religiously removed the yellow leaves to prevent any possible contamination. What is this? The other plant is just 3 feet away and absolutely fine. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 29 May 2000 12:03:06 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 12:03:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Propagating Bougainvilla The following link will take you to our on line Master Gardener Manual and the section on propagation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html It discusses using the proper rooting medium to get optimum rooting in the shortest time. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener alice.terry@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How can I propagate bougainvila? I took some cuttings late April and put in damp potting soil, but I don't think they are rooting: > however, there are little green leaves showing. How long would it take to start roots? Did I try the wrong time of year? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon, 29 May 2000 12:07:03 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 12:07:03 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Hibiscus Joanne: I've been having a time babying along a yellow hibiscus myself. I've been refering people to a web site maintained by the American Hibiscus Society. You can go there by clicking on: http://trop-hibiscus.com/ Visit the section entitled "Basic Questions and Answers". It addresses the yellowing leaf problem. Sue Bass Master Gardener joanne_szymanski@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have 2 hibiscus plants side by side, yellow > and red blooms respectively. I planted them > just last year. Unfortunately, the yellow > plant has been having trouble blooming and > just recently started having the leaves turn > spotty yellow and drop. I don't know if this > is fungus, root rot or too much salt in the > soil. I've added some acidifier in the soil, > and washed heavily to drop the salts, but > nothing seems to help. I've also religiously > removed the yellow leaves to prevent any > possible contamination. What is this? The > other plant is just 3 feet away and > absolutely fine. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:00 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:00 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gardenias; Pruning Ficus This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. Gardenias are tough customers here in the desert. They don't like our alkaline soil, salty water or high temps in the summer. Your may be watering plenty, but incorrectly. If these are established plants, our fact sheet suggest that a deep watering every 7 days in the heat of summer should be fine. They are very susceptible to chlorosis and may be needing some applications of iron chelate, as well as some soil sulfur to lower the alkaline nature of the soil. They like a much higher acid pH. Large quantites of organic matter (up to 50% of root zone) particularly peat moss are adviseable. Augment that with bark chip mulch to further acidify the area. Some people give a monthly watering with diluted vinegar. Only morning sun is adviseable in the desert. Our publication MC 29 deals in great detail on the cultivation of gardenias and camellias. Instructions for ordering are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm but you can sometimes find the book of our home horticulture pubs in the reference section of your public libray (call code 635). Topping of trees is not an accepted horticulture practice, even though you can still find practitioners around the valley. It sound to me like you need to select one to three canes to become the ultimate structural support for the ficus in the long term. Toping would only contribute to your problem, as it causes bushy growth at the ends that are cut back. You can also look for our Pruning Digest (MC 19) under the Ornamentals section of the same web reference above. Another source is the pruning chapter of the Master Gardener manual, available online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy dtharris2@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a gardenia that until recently has looked very nice. Most of the white flowers look brown and diseased. I am watering them plenty. > > I also have a ficus tree about 5 feet tall. The problem is the trunk tapers down to such a small diameter the the top foot and a half can't hold itself up. Should I top the tree? > > Thank you in advance for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:20 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:20 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] White Substance on Plants This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. Sounds like you might have powdery mildew. Permit me to introduce you to the Timely Tips section of our website, wherein problems typically experienced during a given month are discussed briefly and referred to a more detailed section of the site. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/may.htm Write back if this doesn't appear to be your issue. Or feel free to take a sample to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office for review. There is a weekly meeting of staff and volunteers that does diagnostics for the public. [4341 E. Broadway Road] Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener jbbell310@cs.com wrote: > arid_gardener > there is a white fuzzy looking substance on the undersides of stems on my bower vine (pandorea jasminoides) also on celosia plants. What do I do? These are new plants. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:40 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning FIcus Benjamina This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. It really depends what you are trying to do. Are you dealing with a container plant that you want to keep at a certain height, or is this in the landscape? Check out the pruning chapter of our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Never top your tree, which will lead to bushy top growth and harm the plant. Linda Guy Master Gardener the_al_mighty@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Could anyone please explain to me how and when I have to prune a ficus benjamina ? Many thanks in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:54 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:50:54 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pruning Fairy Dusters This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. My [pink] fairy dusters are just tapering off from their blooming, whereas my baja fairy dusters [red] which bloom throughout the year are entering the most prolific bloom cycle of the summer. When you trim the flowers, you'll lose your hummingbird food for a period of time! The pink is more compact, but I find that both have a very nice shape, and I rarely prune except to keep branches out of walkways. I wonder why you would need to trim it so far back. We typically do not recommed removing more than 1/3 the canopy, and with 110 temps here, it is probably too late to effect such a dramatic change in your plant. I'd wait until the autumn. Pruning guidance is available in a chapter dedicated to the topic in our Master Gardener manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy Master Gardener madasmith@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Can I prune my Fairy duster alittle right now? When can I cut it way back? I would like to cut it back to the ground, can I cut it that much? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:51:23 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:51:23 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Peach Trees This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. I'm not sure where you are, but if you are a metro Phoenix denizen, it could be that your tree did not get sufficient hours of chill over what was a mild winter. Check out the chapter on Fruit Trees in our Master Gardener manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy Master Gardener keithb@sisna.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We planted a peach tree 2-years ago, the first year it had fruit, the second year if froze and had no fruit, this year it looked real good but when the blossoms started to come out they would just turn brown and fall off before completely opening up? What can I do to help my peach tree? > > Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:51:48 -0700 Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:51:48 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Starting a Vegetable Garden This is being resent to post to the listserve archives. You could order a copy of our book for beginners, information for which is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm Many nurseries and garden centers carry it. Other options include a very good Vegetable publication and planting table which can be accessed from our list of home horticulture publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable You can follow planting guidelines as well as discussions of pests/diseases usually experienced at that time of the year in our Timely Tips page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Finally, the Vegetable and Herb Gardening section of our recommended reading list should also benefit you http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pippinelf12@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > i am moving to ganado, arizona, in 2 weeks & > am interested in starting a small vegetable > garden there. please offer suggestions for > a few easy-to-grow crops suitable to the > climate & time of year. (i plan on using no > pesticides, so organic gardening info would > be especially helpful.) thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From w7mal@msn.com Mon, 29 May 2000 15:52:30 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 15:52:30 -0700 (MST) From: w7mal@msn.com w7mal@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you grow Hydrangeas in the Phoenix area? From bvbuchanan@aol.com Mon, 29 May 2000 18:01:42 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 29 May 2000 18:01:42 -0700 (MST) From: bvbuchanan@aol.com bvbuchanan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I cannot grow gardenias on the north side of my house, where they receive shade yearound. The gardenia I have in a terra cotta container does not blossom often. The buds dry up and fall off. I water both daily. The leaves are gorgeous and green. Do I need a special fertilizer? Thanks. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 30 May 2000 10:07:37 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 10:07:37 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Care of Gardenias We have a publication available through the Cooperative Extension office that would be most helpful to you. It is publication number MC 29. Click on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm for information on how to get this publication. You will find it listed under "Flowers". Because of our alkaline soils, Gardenias need a lot of extra attention. The publication will give you information on how to amend your soil to make it more acidic for the plant as well as watering information, insect control and fertilization. Sue Bass Master Gardener bvbuchanan@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I cannot grow gardenias on the north side of my house, where they receive shade yearound. The gardenia I have in a terra cotta container does not blossom often. The buds dry up and fall off. > > I water both daily. The leaves are gorgeous and green. Do I need a special fertilizer? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 30 May 2000 10:26:24 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 10:26:24 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Removing Oleanders and Care of Salvia greggi For getting rid of oleanders, please see the following answer in our archives for a similar question: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/1956.html. From what I understand it can be a big job. As for the Salvia greggi, a.k.a. Autumn Sage and Texas Red Sage, this early heat wave is tough on plants, especially newly planted ones. You didn't mention the exposure of your plant. Here is some info from Judy Mielke's book, Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes: Autumn sage seems to prefer an eastern exposure or sunlight filtered through an open tree such as Palo Verde (Cercidium species), In full sun, particularly in the hottest desert areas, the plants don't become as lush, nor bloom as abundantly. Good drainage is important, as Autumn Sage is sensitive to over-watering. Once established, it is drought tolerant, although in severe stress it will drop some leaves and cease blooming. Irrigation every few weeks in summer will keep it looking good. (my own note - you will need to water it a bit more frequently at first this time of year to help get the roots established, but be sure you have the good drainage). Supplemental fertilization with nitrogen during the summer encourages more vigorous plants. Autumn Sage can withstand temperatures to at least 15 degrees F without damage; at 0 degrees F it will die back to the ground. Prune the plant occasionally to keep it dense and compact. Clip off the old flower spikes for a neater appearance and to encourage more flowers. Autumn Sage typically blooms heavily in March and April and to a lesser extent in the summer, and finishes the season with another burst in October or November. Sue Bass Master Gardener candscamp@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have two questions: > 1.) I just purchased an old house and I want to get rid of the oleanders. Any tips? > > 2.) I planted a salvia greggi a week ago and it is starting to look droopy and a few leaves have turned brown and fallen. What should I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 30 May 2000 10:50:33 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 10:50:33 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Pecan Pests in Louisiana The aphids that infest pecan trees are just regular aphids. Here in Arizona, Stinkbugs are a problem for pecan trees. They are green and sort of shaped like a tick, but the photo I saw in the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver didn't show any black stripes. I suggest that you contact your local county Cooperative Extension office. You should be able to find your county office located in the Government pages of your phone book. Sue Bass Master Gardener malight@iol27.com wrote: > arid_gardener > What are pecan aphids? I saw this in another message you posted, and I am wondering if these are the little creatures I see in "herds" on my pecan tree. They are sort of resemble a big greenish tick with antenae, and have black stripes on their bodies. Just today I noticed a winged creature amidst them. They seem to "sleep" until disturbed, but they always stay together in little patches. What are they and will they hurt my pecans? If it helps, we live in Louisiana. > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue, 30 May 2000 11:49:02 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 11:49:02 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [AG] Where to Buy Ornamental Gravel in Tucson? My yard is covered in pink gravel. It came with the house. Problem is, I need to get some more. Most gravel comes in a size like 1/2, 3/4, but this more like a crushed rock. I like it because it packs hard and is easy to rake. Thanks in advance. From dmkerr@dancris.com Tue, 30 May 2000 12:15:29 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 12:15:29 -0700 (MST) From: dmkerr@dancris.com dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you have a phone number or address for high tech horticulture, a hydroponic gardening store mentioned in the May Roots and Shoots? From madasmith@aol.com Tue, 30 May 2000 12:03:26 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 12:03:26 -0700 (MST) From: madasmith@aol.com madasmith@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a fast growing shade tree that does well in Phoenix. I would prefer an evergreen tree, as I do not like bare branches in the winter. My husband does not like pine trees, so they are out. Thanks Debbie Smith From pattyjoa@aol.com Tue, 30 May 2000 13:26:52 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 13:26:52 -0700 (MST) From: pattyjoa@aol.com pattyjoa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My sister was bringing a 5 gallon Jacaranda tree home and the trunk slammed breaking off the tree top. Some side shoots have grown. What does she do. Is the tree now useless because the main line was cut off. What should she do? Whatever advice you can give will be appreciated. From sjbass@uswest.net Tue, 30 May 2000 15:45:09 -0700 Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 15:45:09 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Where to Buy Ornamental Gravel in Tucson? Jim: Look in the Yellow Pages under Landscape Equipment and Supplies. Up here in the Phoenix area, that is where you would find such companies as Pioneer Landscape materials, which sells rock, top soil, etc. There should be a pretty good sized listing of them in the Tucson phone book. When you find one, take a sample of what you have in with you. I'm sure that they will be able get you what you need. Sounds like you may have decomposed granite. But I'm no authority on rock :>) Sue Bass Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > arid_gardener > My yard is covered in pink gravel. It came with the house. Problem is, I > need to get some more. Most gravel comes in a size like 1/2, 3/4, but this > more like a crushed rock. I like it because it packs hard and is easy to > rake. > > Thanks in advance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From grad2000@peoplepc.com Tue, 30 May 2000 19:17:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 19:17:58 -0700 (MST) From: grad2000@peoplepc.com grad2000@peoplepc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What disease makes the leaves on an apple tree curl up and some turn yellow. From PoetEvan@aol.com Tue, 30 May 2000 21:34:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 21:34:58 -0700 (MST) From: PoetEvan@aol.com PoetEvan@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm composting, using a "Can of Worms" container. I'd like to use a cooler place in my utility room, next to a fridge and washing machine. Are earthworms sensitive to vibrations/noise? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 31 May 2000 11:13:53 EDT Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:13:53 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: [AG]Hydroponic Systems business Hello, The flier I have from High Tech Horticulture says it is located on the SE corner of 73rd St. and Greenway Hayden Loop Suite C12 (15455 N. Greenway Hayden Loop. Telephone number is 480-348-9232 or 1-800-634-4249 JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/30/00 12:16:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time, dmkerr@dancris.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 5/30/00 12:16:12 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: dmkerr@dancris.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Do you have a phone number or address for high tech horticulture, a hydroponic gardening store mentioned in the May Roots and Shoots? >> From tonys@karsten.com Wed, 31 May 2000 08:02:48 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:02:48 -0700 (MST) From: tonys@karsten.com tonys@karsten.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I need some help regarding trimming my queen palms? When should you trim palm limbs, and how close to the tree should you cut palm limbs? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 31 May 2000 11:22:33 EDT Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:22:33 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Website for High Tech Hi, I just saw that they have a website. I was just there and found that it gives pictures of many of the items they have for sale. www.hightechhorticulture.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ From julia_cleary@yahoo.com Wed, 31 May 2000 08:42:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:42:06 -0700 (MST) From: julia_cleary@yahoo.com julia_cleary@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Black birds that are obnoxious and extremely dominate, constantly driving other birds away, have taken over my yard, trees, garden. Their droppings are a never ending heavy mess. How can I effectivly deter them. I have tried scarecrows and fake owl- properly used, these birds quickly still become "wise" to them. I have mature oleanders and mulberry and shamel ash (sp?) trees they love congragating in. Thanks for any suggestions. trees they love congragating in. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed, 31 May 2000 12:06:10 EDT Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:06:10 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: Puppies and Ficus Tree berries Hi Jose, I just found your e-mail. I can't find any reference to the Ficus berries being poisonous but you might call poison control for possible information. I'll also post your question on the arid_gardener board in case someone their has helpful information. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 5/2/00 10:09:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Jose_Fragoso@spe.sony.com writes: << Subj: Ficus Tree Berries Date: 5/2/00 10:09:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time From: Jose_Fragoso@spe.sony.com To: JeanSciFi@aol.com Are the berries that a ficus tree drops harmful to dogs or cats if ingested? My puppy will find them on the ground and eat them. Thanks for your time. Jose Fragoso >> From gjgauthier@yahoo.com Wed, 31 May 2000 09:20:06 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:20:06 -0700 (MST) From: gjgauthier@yahoo.com gjgauthier@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our fan palm trees are producing seed pods. Is there any way to stop the production of these pods? From LEWISD@delwebb.com Sun, 28 May 2000 16:09:28 -0700 Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 16:09:28 -0700 From: Donna Lewis x7963 LEWISD@delwebb.com Subject: [AG] Tropical Bird of Paradise I have two TBPs that bloom profusely and I have always cut off the dead flowers at the base of the stalk. Is this correct? Donna Lewis Information Services Del Webb Corporation 602-808-7963 lewisd@delwebb.com From sjbass@uswest.net Mon May 1 00:00:19 2000 Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2000 17:00:19 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Nut Grass A fellow Master Gardener has had success with a product called "Manage" but he does state that it will take more than one application of this product to kill the nut grass. Sue Bass Master Gardener GEMolumby@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I live in Sun City and have a real problem killing out Nut Grass (Hope that's the name) in my flower and planting areas. I have tried "Roundup" with little results, Do you have any advise? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Mon May 1 15:08:29 2000 Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 08:08:29 -0700 (MST) From: Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Roy-Engelman@gnc-hq.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a madagascar palm that I have had for several years. I live in Pennsylvania so I keep it outside in full sun during the late spring early fall. In winter it is in a window that receives lots of sun. This spring I have noticed (while still in the house) the new leaves coming out on top are turning black and dieing off?? I don't think that the plant is too big for the pot, I don't water it too much. I don't know what this can be. I don't see any signs of inscets around the crown where this is happening or any where else on the plant? I am really concerned as this is one of our favorite plants and one that we have had for quite some time. Help!!!!! Any suggestions would be appreciated. From LauraSimms@go.com Mon May 1 19:04:38 2000 Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 12:04:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help the first time it closed up. I just watered it again early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up again later that day. There are no visible markings or discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by something else? ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From DTopham1@aol.com Mon May 1 20:58:29 2000 Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 16:58:29 EDT From: DTopham1@aol.com DTopham1@aol.com Subject: [AG] Peppers and Tomatoes I have several tomatoe and bellpepper plants. My tomatoes are doing great except one which all of a sudden the bottom 1-2 inches of leaves have turned a bright yellow and of course are dying. The rest of the plant looks like the others and I don't see any eating of the leaves. Any suggestions on this. The other question is for my peppers. They do have something nibbling on them but I haven't been able to catch the culprit. The are next to my tomatoes (but 2 rows from my yellowing tomatoe) and I don't see anything eating them. What might be eating these plants and what would be the most natural way to rid the pest. Thanks, Marcy From EJSchmel@aol.com Mon May 1 21:27:44 2000 Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 14:27:44 -0700 (MST) From: EJSchmel@aol.com EJSchmel@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the Tempe area and this past fall planted tulips, daffodils, crocus in a large pot. On top I planted pansies. As spring approached, the bulbs came up, bloomed and have since died back. Now my question is, when if ever do I dig up the bulbs? I would like to plant something else in the pot for summer, but am afraid that I will injur the bulbs planting something else. The bulbs really didn't do too well in the pot and I would like to maybe plant them in the ground. Shall I wait to dig them up, or do I dig them up and put them in a dry cool location? Please advise - Edie From sjbass@uswest.net Tue May 2 00:08:44 2000 Date: Mon, 01 May 2000 17:08:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: African Sumac Frank: How often are you watering? Is the tree on a drip system? For what duration of time are you watering? A good watering guide is to water the tree to a depth of three feet (you can check the depth with a rod) every two weeks. Yellowing leaves can be caused by many things, including alkaline soils, excessive watering, inadequate watering, iron deficiency, leaf scorch, nitrogen deficiency, salt damage, etc. You asked for more information on this tree and I found some information in Ronald Dinchak's book, An Illustrated Guide To Landscape Trees of Southern Arizona. The African Sumac is a member of the Cashew family. It is most often trained to a graceful, broad-crowned, evergreen tree reaching a height of 25 feet (7.6 meters). It is sometimes clipped to form a hedge. It is a dioecious plant with each individual plant possessing either the "male" or "female" flowers. Flowers are produced throughout the winter, generally from January through February. The ovulate flowers are tiny, creamy white to yellow, and occur in clusters. Developing fruits occur in the clusters of 40 to 50 individuals. Maturation of fruit occurs in April and May. Each fruit is round and 1/6 inch in diameter. Each contains a single seed. As a landscape plant, the African Sumac has become extremely popular in Arizona. The interesting branching pattern and effective dark red bark make the African sumac an excellent specimen plant. The evergreen foliage makes it useful as a screen. It can be clipped and planted into a hedge. Growth rates are slow if the plant receives only minimal water. However, with adequate water and fertilizer, growth rates can be speeded up. Under these conditions, small trees can grow up reasonably quickly. As for maintenance requirements, the book states that the African sumac tolerates summer heat, and mature specimens can be drought resistant. They will also thrive in lawns receiving irrigation. The plant is hardy to temperature of 12 to 15 degrees F. The tree can be planted in almost nay soil type, but it must be given adequate drainage since it is moderately susceptible to Texas root rot. Sumac responds well to pruning, which can be done any time of year. Since the tree is moderately susceptible to iron chlorosis, give the plant an iron source at least twice a year. This may be more than you ever wanted to know about the African Sumac. :>) If you would like more information on Texas root rot, we have an excellent publication available. Publication 8734. Also, you may want to take a look at our on-line article AZ 1034 Verticillium Wilt. The symptoms of this can be yellowing leaves, with leaf drop too. Sue Bass Master Gardener Dorcil@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a 5 year old African Sumac tree. It has lost its dark green look to the leaves and quite a few turned yellow and dropped off. I notice the suckers are nice and green and there is some new grouth sarting among the dry looking leaves but it looks kind of barren. I have a 5 foot square berm aroung itand have deep waterd, given it iron and a multi purpose fert, any suggestions > Thanks Frank Brown. Also could you send me any infor on this tree as to its care. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From rjezeski@aol.com Tue May 2 01:49:31 2000 Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:49:31 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help thank you From dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Tue May 2 01:06:03 2000 Date: Mon, 1 May 2000 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) From: dlstanley@lawtonnet.net dlstanley@lawtonnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I Live in southern Oklahoma (zone 7) and I just planted 2 pomegrante trees , the nursery I orderded them from said they would do fine in this climat. Im not sure they will from what I have found I need to be in zone 8. Can I do anything to help the trees grow successfully? From wasclyde@uswest.net Tue May 2 14:19:02 2000 Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:19:02 -0700 (MST) From: wasclyde@uswest.net wasclyde@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re:Watering for TIF - last summer I think we overwatered based on the schedule the prior owners had set on the sprinkler timers: everyday for about 20 minutes. I have the sprinklers now set for every third day for about 12 minutes. Is there a recommended frequency for watering that helps the turf grow strong deep roots, keeps it green but does not create excessive top growth? Second question. What is a recommended feeding schedule for TIF? Thank You. From rjezeski@aol.com Tue May 2 14:39:03 2000 Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 07:39:03 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have three large honeysuckles planted at the end of our driveway. two are doing just great but the third one is dying very fast. i believe dogs are using it as a place to urinate on. any suggestion. the plants are about 30 inches tall,fun sun during the day thanks From saz621@primenet.com Tue May 2 16:24:45 2000 Date: Tue, 02 May 2000 09:24:45 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Why is my agave closing up? Dear Laura, There are a couple of possibilities for why your agave has closed up. The most likely is that the plant is experiencing severe drought stress from the transplant. While every two weeks is a good schedule for an established plant, it might not be quite enough for a transplanted one. This would be particularly true as the weather warms up. I would water it weekly and be sure to water slowly and well all around the plant so that you wet a large zone for the roots to grow. The other possibilities are not so nice. Plants that have been infected by the agave snout weevil, to which I am sorry to say the Agave americana is very susceptible, have these symptoms: the outer leaves begin to fall away from the central leaves leaving it exposed like a spike, the central leaves fail to unfold and open remaining 'in bud' until they finally fall over, and the entire plant begins to lose leaves and die without flowering. There is nothing to be done once the infestation of the weevil is that far along. Sorry. The other not so nice, or otherwise depending on your perspective, is that your plant is preparing to bloom. When bloom begins, and before you see the spike, the central leaves tighten around the emerging flowering stalk. If this is the case, you will see the flowering stalk very shortly and voila, you get to see the extraordinary bloom of this agave. Best of luck, Mary Irish Laura Simms wrote: > arid_gardener > I have an agave americana that I had transplanted into my > front yard last October (1999). I am not sure how old it > is, but it is about 2 to 3 feet in diameter. To get it > established, I watered it about every 2 weeks with a drip > irrigation system at the base of the plant. Then when the > weather began to warm up in the first week of April, the > leaves began to close up towards the center of the plant. > I thought that it needed more water, which seemed to help > the first time it closed up. I just watered it again > early on Saturday, April 29, and noticed that it closed up > again later that day. There are no visible markings or > discolorations or insects that I can tell. The agave gets > about 8 hours of sun now. There are also 2 new baby > plants poking up from the base of the plant. Am I > overwatering, underwatering, or is this being caused by > something else? > > ___________________________________________________ > GO Network Mail > Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From dm@nip.com Tue May 2 18:32:33 2000 Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 11:32:33 -0700 (MST) From: dm@nip.com dm@nip.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My euonymus got yellow leaves and then they all fell off. Now the leaves are growing in green. What's going on? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 3 00:16:01 2000 Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 20:16:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Watering turf On the weather page of both the Tribune and the Republic is a spot titled Lawn where each day is given the amount of water that should be applied if the the turf has not been watered for three days. Todays amount is 0.66 inches. You can measure the amount you are applying by setting out several tuna fish cans or similiar and running your sprinklers for 15 minutes. Measure the amount in each can and average them out. This will tell you wheather you are over or underwatering. Check out these websites on turf care. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html UofA recommends fertilizing hybrid bermuda during the months of May, June, July and August with monthly applications of one pound of actual nitrogen. This means that if your fertilizer has an analysis of 21-0-0 then you would apply 5 pounds of fertilizer each time. If it were only a 10-10-10 then you would apply 10 pounds of fertilizer each time. Good luck. Rod From rblack@fix.net Wed May 3 00:45:52 2000 Date: Tue, 2 May 2000 17:45:52 -0700 (MST) From: rblack@fix.net rblack@fix.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does music have any effect on how/how well plants grow? Do you have any study material on this? I am doing a science project. From CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Wed May 3 07:57:04 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 00:57:04 -0700 (MST) From: CREATIVONE@AOL.COM CREATIVONE@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. Thank You, Tori From sjbass@uswest.net Wed May 3 14:49:17 2000 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 07:49:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Dwarf kumquat You might want to contact Dick Gross with the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. Dick Gross, 4110 W. Hatcher Rd., Phoenix, AZ 85051-3247 (602) 939-4570 He may be able to point you in the right direction. Sue Bass Master Gardener CREATIVONE@AOL.COM wrote: > arid_gardener > I understand that I cannot order citrus plants from another state...but I cannot seem to be able to find any garden places that carry or can get a grafted dwarf kumquat tree. I have tried, tip top, Gardners World, Whitfields, and others. Some of them can get the regular sized trees but not the dwarf. I have a townhouse with a small patio yard. Please help I have been looking for 3 years now. > Thank You, > Tori > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From cactusaznative@aol.com Wed May 3 14:53:08 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 07:53:08 -0700 (MST) From: cactusaznative@aol.com cactusaznative@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Heritage Live Oak that I would like to have trimmed from the bottom to make a higher crown but I'm not sure when this should be done. Also what is the best nourishment for it. It seems to be thriving. From La33ey@email.msn.com Wed May 3 17:58:27 2000 Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 10:58:27 -0700 From: La33ey La33ey@email.msn.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi, We're contemplating planting at least three Chilean Mesquites in our backyard. Does your organization recommend/support the planting of the Chilean Mesquite in the Phoenix area? Will such a tree attract birds? Does the Chilean Mesquite require special fertilizer, watering, etc? Our second choice is the Allepo Pine. Any comments? Susan in Phoenix La33ey@email.msn.com From billied@goodnet.com Wed May 3 18:24:11 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) From: billied@goodnet.com billied@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. Thank you. Jackie Daman From taman@mdch.com Wed May 3 18:38:15 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: taman@mdch.com taman@mdch.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am unable to find the name of a cactus I received as a gift. I know it is of the opuntia family and is called a Christmas Tree Cactus. Not a Christmas Cactus. This one never flowers and grows only to about a height of one foot. It has many 'arms' and the spines resemble hair. Please help if you can. From tmaki@amfam.com Wed May 3 19:49:19 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 12:49:19 -0700 (MST) From: tmaki@amfam.com tmaki@amfam.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 3 21:37:05 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:37:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Dwarf Kumquat Have you tried Greenfield Nursery in Mesa, they specialize in citrus and grow their stock locally. Their website is www.greenfieldcitrus.com 2558 E. Lehi Rd. Mesa 602 830 8000 Good luck. Rod From reeva5@speedchoice.com Wed May 3 22:05:13 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 16:05:13 -0600 From: Randee reeva5@speedchoice.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is it true that the roots of a tree only go out to the length of the = branches? ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is it true that the roots of = a tree=20 only go out to the length of the = branches?
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BFB519.5D23CB60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 4 00:06:30 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 20:06:30 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Tree roots Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. Rod From fscapellit@mindspring.com Thu May 4 00:03:43 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Wed May 3 21:26:47 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged plans? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu May 4 01:35:25 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 18:35:25 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tree roots ----- Original Message ----- From: > Randee, Tree roots usually do grow out beyond the drip line of the tree. I > have found roots from a Mulberry tree in my yard 50 feet from the tree. > Rod > I also have roots from a honey locust tree growing clear across the lawn - about 40 feet. -Olin From jwplus@goodnet.com Thu May 4 00:35:43 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:35:43 -0700 (MST) From: jwplus@goodnet.com jwplus@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Chinese Elm in the back yard. The tree filled out with green leaves and about 4 weeks ago started dropping leaves..a lot of leaves. They are yellow. There is one side of the tree that is not yellow and not dropping leaves. The only unusual event was that right about the same time we had our pool resurfaced and we drained the pool into what I think is a sewer clean out. There was about 6,500 gals. of water drained. I don't know if this had anything to do with the problem at all. It was just a thought. The tree is about 12-15 years old. What can I do to save the tree? From journies@worldnet.att.net Thu May 4 02:36:15 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:36:15 -0700 (MST) From: journies@worldnet.att.net journies@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lawn that consists of Bermuda and Rye. I have noticed something creeping in from the outer edges in spots which are not about a foot wide. They are flat (like bald) brown and dry. Can you suggest what it might be, and advise as to how I might get rid of it? I have fertalized recently, and I water for 15 minute periods, every other day. This is not happening under a tree, and it is not caused by dogs. Should I be applying Bermuda seed at this time? P.S. I just read my "sent" message, and at the bottom, it said "Sincerely, Lucy Bradley". Don't know who she is. My name is Joan Enright. Thanks for your help. From ebenware@juno.com Thu May 4 02:15:31 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:15:31 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Tomato Plants Over Summer This question is mostly related to the higher temperatures, along with watering in addition to the shade factors. Go to the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/subject.html#start and sort by subject. You will need to scroll down to "tomatos" but there are many questions relating to tomatos. One specifically relates to your situation, "Tomato Plants Over Summer," which speaks to plants in pots on the east side of the house. Other of the messages with summer dates likely also relate to this topic. On Wed, 3 May 2000 17:03:43 -0700 (MST) fscapellit@mindspring.com writes: > arid_gardener > Please help me grow my tomatoes. They're Roma type. We've had them > for a month now in a large pot. It has flowers, but some are > dieing.........I give it Miraclegro tomato > food.......18-18-something. Is there anything a should be doing? > It has two tiny tomato but one was shriveled. > > I have it on the east side of our backyard where it doesn't get the > hot afternoon sun too much. Any questions? > > Thank you. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From ebenware@juno.com Thu May 4 02:39:33 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:39:33 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [AG] Arthritis and Gardening There are many factors to consider in your question: - Do you want to do the job yourself? There is something about gardening; some people love it, others do not. Just like bungee jumping. - Can you afford a service? If the answer to above is no, and you can afford, it, have a service to save yourself the aggravation. - What exactly is/are the limit(s) you have? Most people can carry 10-20 pounds. There is a lot you can do with this. Have your nursery lift the organic material into your car. At home, open the bag and remove it little by little, as you can. Buy only smaller plants. The desert adapted plants will grow best with less maintenance. There are mini roto tillers that weigh around 20 pounds. Ergonomically correct tools are more widely available. - Soil preparation is basic to all planting; many areas in the yard may need a pick to get a hole dug (I live at 83rd and Union Hills in Peoria; my yard is like this). Or, softening up the ground by soaking with water; but the dirt, usually clay like consistency, will be much heavier when wet. - How willing are you to wait for results? If you want the landscape NOW, you will need to have it done professionally. If you can be patient and do work just as your health allows, it may take some time; in a smaller yard, I would guess two years, as with arthritis, you don't know if it will be a "good day" or a "bad day" until it is the day. I would not buy any plants until the hole is prepared because of this reason. - Of course, if you may be able to find a teenager willing to do the hardest work under your direct supervision. There are a lot of options, and gardening is wonderful for people with arthritis as long as they do not overdo. PLEASE do consult with your health care provider with questions about your abilities for lifting, standing while using tools (shovel etc.), bending, squatting and anything else I've left out or is your concern. On Wed, 3 May 2000 14:26:47 -0700 (MST) jdemeloitz@prodigy.net writes: > arid_gardener > I am buying a home in Peoria probably moving in around mid-July. I > am responsible for the rear yard and have had no experience in any > kind of landscaping. Is ther any publications that would show me > various plans for a simple yet attractive patio and yard area. I am > restricted by arthritis and can not do any heavy digging or lifting. > Would I be better of with a nursery and one of their pre-packaged > plans? > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 4 03:52:57 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:52:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Mesquite Trees Hi Susan, I believe most of your questions can be answered by two Uof A Cooperative Extensiion bulletins; "Trees for Maricopa County" #MC13, and "Mesquites in the Landscape" # 8363 which are available from the Extension for $1.00 each at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or from your public library where they can be copied. Both the Mesquite and the Aleppo Pine are listed in the first bulletin. Both are quite drought resistant once they become established, and do not require any special irrigation or fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 4 03:53:00 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 23:53:00 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak tree pruning If the tree is newly planted you should wait at least one year before doing any pruning except for dead or damaged branches. If the tree is a few years old then it can be pruned at any time. By delaying pruning a young tree the maximum amount of leaves which manufacture food for the tree, are kept on the tree, thus allowing the young tree to grow and gain as much strength as possible, provided it has proper irrigation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jasmin@pangea.ca Thu May 4 10:53:55 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 03:53:55 -0700 (MST) From: jasmin@pangea.ca jasmin@pangea.ca Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? From nurse303@aol.com Thu May 4 04:38:58 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 21:38:58 -0700 (MST) From: nurse303@aol.com nurse303@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I'm a novice gardener. I planted a rose on the north side of my house last January. That side of the house will get some very hot sunshine in the summer but for now it remains in the shade; anyway, my rose has not grown any branches and is, in fact, drying out. I bought a very good quality rose just to increase my chances but it appears I planted it in the wrong spot. Is there a chance it will come to life for me? In the same large area I also planted begonias, geraniums and a bird of paradise plant, all which seem to be thriving. From rustydog44@hotmail.com Thu May 4 02:56:06 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:56:06 -0700 (MST) From: rustydog44@hotmail.com rustydog44@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what Woodrow seeds are? Send me some info on what they are. I heard its a beautiful Plant but not sure if i should grow it in my yard. Please write back on it. If not then its ok. Thanks From sbarvian@prodigy.net Thu May 4 02:55:34 2000 Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 19:55:34 -0700 (MST) From: sbarvian@prodigy.net sbarvian@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pair of octopus agaves that are both flowering this year. The flowers are now starting to drop from the stalk, and don't look like anything that will take root and grow. What should I be doing to propagate the plants? And how long will it take for seedlings to grow to a reasonable size? (I owned the parent plants for the last 3 years, but don't know how old they were.) Thanks. From dg.anderson@home.com Thu May 4 14:43:02 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 07:43:02 -0700 (MST) From: dg.anderson@home.com dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fertilizer can I put on my lawn at this time of year? From clydic@netzone.com Thu May 4 16:03:14 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 09:03:14 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The American Horticultural Society's A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants says: Callisia -- syn. Phyodina-- genus, related to Tradescantia, of about 20 species of creeping, spreading or suberect evergreen perennials and (rarely) annuals, from forest margins in S.E., US, Mexico and tropical North and South America. They are valued for their attractive, alternate, succulent leaves. The flowers, borne in paired curled cymes or terminal panicles, are white or pink with 3 sepals and 3 petals. Where not hardy, grow in hanging baskets in a temperate greenhouse or as a houseplant; elsewhere, use as a groundcover in a border. repens: variable, trailing perennial with stems rooting at the nodes to form mats of broadly ovate, bright green leaves...white flowers to 1/2 inch across are borne in spike-like, curled cymes...in autumn. Texas to Argentina. Grows to 3 ft out and 4 inches high. hardy to 50 degrees F/ Hope this helps. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jasmin@pangea.ca Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 3:54 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page arid_gardener HELP! The hanging tag on the plant I just purchased calls it a "Bolivian Jew - Callisia Repens". I cannot find information on either of these plant names anywhere!! Have you ever heard of this plant? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Archives - From mike.todd@asu.edu Thu May 4 19:29:46 2000 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 12:29:46 -0700 From: Michael Todd mike.todd@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Re: Woodpeckers & saguaros Jackie: You probably don't need to worry too much about the woodpeckers in the saguaro. Saguaros are where the birdes normally nest, so as you might imagine, the plant has developed adaptations to cope with the birds' "remodeling" efforts. Some say that the cavities excavated by Gilded Flickers (Colaptes chrysoides) may in some instances harm the cactus, while those made by Gila Woodpeckers (Melanepes uropygialis) are usually not as damaging to the inner structure of the plant. If you want to figure out which species you have living with you, try the web addresses below for starters. See images of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://www.arizonahighways.com/Wildlife/gilawoodpecker1.html http://www.hoglezoo.org/birds/gila.htm Hear sounds of the Gila Woodpecker here: http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/accounts/melanerpes/m._uropygialis.html See images of the Gilded Flicker here: http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/telyt/GIFL.HTM http://www.audubon.org/bird/watch/gil/gil.html If you want to find out more go to the search site www.google.com and type in Gila Woodpecker, Gilded Flicker, or the scientific names and see what you turn up. Good luck. -mike t. arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: >Message: 3 >Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:24:11 -0700 (MST) >From: >To: >Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >How can I keep birds (WOODPECKERS)out of my saurago cactus? They are >making holes all over it.Plus it's full of birds. >Thank you. Jackie Daman Mike Todd Graduate Research Associate Dept of Psychology | Dept of Social and Behavioral Sciences-MC 3051 Arizona State University | Arizona State University West PO Box 871104 | PO Box 37100 Tempe AZ 85287-1104 | Phoenix AZ 85069-7100 E-mail: mike.todd@asu.edu ASU Psychology-Voice:480.965.3326 (mssg only); Fax: 480.965.8544 ASUW Social & Behavioral Sci-Voice: 602.543.6324; Fax: 602.543.6004 From smnoel@uswest.net Thu May 4 17:03:01 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 10:03:01 -0700 (MST) From: smnoel@uswest.net smnoel@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page location to purchase low water garden plants From bertfransugar@aol.com Thu May 4 21:16:59 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 14:16:59 -0700 (MST) From: bertfransugar@aol.com bertfransugar@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I keep bermuda grass from creeping over into adjacent flower beds? From Gregcm2@aol.com Fri May 5 00:32:20 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:32:20 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tomato and cucumber just started getting greyish brown thin streaks about 1-2 mm in width on some of the lower leaves. The leaves are between 3 inchwes to a foot off the ground. It's almost as if something is slithering across the leaves leaving someting behind that kills that part of the leaf. What could it be and how can I eliminate it? From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 5 03:37:06 2000 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:37:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] [Fwd: Strawberry Care] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp03.primenet.com (smtp03.primenet.com [206.165.6.133]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id RAA24107 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:48 -0700 (MST) From: RCruz9146@aol.com Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp03.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id RAA17735 for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 17:56:35 -0700 (MST) Received: from imo20.mx.aol.com(152.163.225.10) via SMTP by smtp03.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA.MaqII; Thu May 4 17:56:23 2000 Received: from RCruz9146@aol.com by imo20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v26.7.) id u.60.2caf38f (5738) for ; Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:29 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <60.2caf38f.2643763c@aol.com> Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 20:56:28 EDT Subject: Re: Strawberry Care To: laguy2@primenet.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 104 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Is there any way to add acidity to the strawberry plants potting soil that I already planted in 8'' pots? I only used a potting soil that already had vermiculite in it. Right now the plants a surviving but aren't putting out very much fruit. Again any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. --------------F8DCA41B57DBAC6015788C90-- From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 5 03:40:45 2000 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:40:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Protecting Strawberries I would suggest floating row cover, since it is probably an issue of the early 'birds' getting to your bounty. You can order a copy of our strawberry publication with instructions at the following website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits You might also check the reference section of your public library, #635, to see if this isn't carried in a notebook containing all our home horticulture publications. Linda Guy Master Gardener pbbake@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I've added strawberries to my garden this year and have incountered a problem. The first big berries showed up and just as they were about ripe they got eaten, apparently by birds? Whats the solution? I know I will soon need a sun shade of some kind. Can I kind of cage in the plants to solve both roblems? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 5 03:43:40 2000 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:43:40 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Madagascar Palms See my recent response to similar questions at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001319.html http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/001321.html Rot is the most suspect reason. Linda Guy Master Gardener mlperki@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My 15 yr old Madagascar palm has lost all it's leaves, no signs of new ones. What's wrong? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 5 03:46:02 2000 Date: Thu, 04 May 2000 20:46:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Insects on Cauliflower Permit me to introduce you to the Timely Tips section of our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm There is often a discussion of the pest commonly troubling a yard during the month in question. I hope this helps you since I am unable to diagnose your problem from your brief description. Linda Guy Master Gardener klmihocko@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I planted cauliflower this year for the first time. It looks like it has some bugs under the head , how do I get these off for cooking or is it ruined? > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 5 14:09:50 2000 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 07:09:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Container Planting Problems I would not suggest using horse manure unless it has already been well composted. Even then, I would leave the pots unplanted for a few weeks. It will continue to compost in your soil mix and take up the nitrogen that would otherwise be available to the plants. In a flower or vegetable bed, for example, we would amend the soil with organic matter and, even if composted, we would let the ground be fallow about 2 weeks before planting. Our standard recommendation for container soil mix is 1/3 high quality potting soil, 1/3 peat or other organic [but well composted] material, and 1/3 pumice or vermiculite for superior drainage. I prefer the pumice because, over time, the vermiculite floats to the surface of the pot. If you can do this, take away all the saucers/trays and allow the water to run through. You should never let the water be reabsorbed into the root ball, because this causes salt injury, particularly if you fertilize regularly. All runoff should be tossed. It sounds to me as if there is a possibility that you are overwatering the plants. Use a probe or just stick your finger in to see how moist things are in the pot. If you noticed that the plants had no roots after they died, then overwatering is a significant part of the problem. I am not familiar with Miracle Gro but it sounds to me as if you may be overfertilizing. Our container plant specialist uses a very weak solution twice a month, I believe. Sunlight sounds good, as do the size of the pots which diameter should be 1/3 the height of the plant measured from top to soil line. I assume that the sun the pots are getting are early am into the afternoon with some relief in the worst heat of the day. Hope this gets you growing! Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > i have four large clay pots that i have used for planting flowers.these pot are facing north along side the garage and sidewalk. the pots are 14 inches across and are 12 inches high. i have put potting soil into them along with horsemanure mixed in. i have planted vincas,lobelia,petunias,dianthus,in these pots at different times,but they always seem to die. the flowers are in the sun about 70% of the time,and i water them every other day in the morning around 7 before the sun hits them,i also put miracle-gro on them once every week.some of the flowers will last for a few weeks in the pots that are not in the sun allday. coukd you please tell me what i'm doing wrong. is it the type of flower i'm using,wrong potting soil or what. the neighbors plant in pots and have beautiful flowers for long periods of time.help help > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From saz621@primenet.com Fri May 5 16:07:01 2000 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 09:07:01 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page You will probably not get seed from an Octopus agave, they only occasionally set good seed. But you will get countless numbers of tiny plantlets, known as bulbils, all up and down the stalk. They are probably very tiny right now, but when they are about 2-4 inches long, take them off, put them in sand or good potting soil, they can be very crowded if you like, keep them reasonably moist, int he shade, and in a very short timy they will make roots. After they each have a good root system they can be individually potted and should grow quickly . Good luck, Mary Irish From nativenursery@redrivernet.com Fri May 5 14:24:55 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:24:55 -0700 (MST) From: nativenursery@redrivernet.com nativenursery@redrivernet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can anyone tell me what the lacewing bug is that I am finding on Brittlebush and Sunflowers right now. It is small (not much larger than an aphid) and flat with light colored lacy wings and a black body. There are tons of them and they bite people if disturbed. They do seem to do damage. I know I read somewhere about an insect that was common on Brittlebush, but I can't find the reference. Thanks. Jennifer From lydonmcnick@aol.com Fri May 5 00:36:25 2000 Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 17:36:25 -0700 (MST) From: lydonmcnick@aol.com lydonmcnick@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last spring and summer, I had many dusty millers in my garden. They seemed to survive the winter, however, the foliage looks a bit wilted , etc. With the warmer weather, will this perk up, or should I just remove them from the yard, and start over? From bvictoreen@home.com Fri May 5 14:46:21 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 07:46:21 -0700 (MST) From: bvictoreen@home.com bvictoreen@home.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of our olive trees is yellowing and has very little new growth. It just looks unhealthy. It is a very large tree and has always been beautiful. What should we do? From rjezeski@aol.com Fri May 5 16:53:37 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 09:53:37 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. bush morning glory and green clove sage. when you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush thank you and keep up the good work From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 5 18:53:32 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 14:53:32 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Olive tree leaves yellowing Yellow leaves on any plant can be caused by improper irrigation as well as other causes. Please give me more info and I'll try to help you. How much and how often are you watering? Are the leaves the same color as on the other olive trees and are the leaves cupped? Has there been any construction nearby or any chemicals applied? Is there grass near the trees and have you applied weed and feed? Have the leaves turned brown and are they hanging onto the tree? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 5 20:49:34 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 16:49:34 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Fertilizing turf This website will provide you with lots of info on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod From popart3@aol.com Fri May 5 20:10:19 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 13:10:19 -0700 (MST) From: popart3@aol.com popart3@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a narrow area alongside an east-facing front walkway in which we have geraniums presently growing. We want to replace the geraniums with a flowering, relatively low-growing plant. We were told at our local nursery that Coreopsis might be an appropriate plant to use. The area gets slightly more than half-day sun during the summer. Do you think Coreopsis would be a good choice? From lsimms@asu.edu Fri May 5 18:25:47 2000 Date: Fri, 05 May 2000 11:25:47 -0700 From: Laura Simms lsimms@asu.edu Subject: [AG] RE: SW Landscaping Ideas This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how to landscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping http://www.amwua.org/ Of course the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants of the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com/cgi-bin/viewCatPage.pl?sale=&catPage=/index2.html Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms laurasimms@go.com --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA) Content-type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="lsimms.vcf" Content-description: Card for Laura Simms Content-disposition: attachment; filename="lsimms.vcf" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit begin:vcard n:Simms;Laura tel;fax:480/965-2519 tel;work:480/965-9119 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:Arizona State University, Biology adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:lsimms@asu.edu title:Accountant Associate x-mozilla-cpt:;-5072 fn:Laura Simms end:vcard --Boundary_(ID_Hb6tDbS/Li1DHGHsv4jfGA)-- From PatBern7@aol.com Fri May 5 22:06:21 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 15:06:21 -0700 (MST) From: PatBern7@aol.com PatBern7@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My tangelo tree had a lot of bloosoms, but now I don't see any fruit that has formed. Also our grapefruit tree had very few bloosoms and I only see one or two fruit. Both trees were planted 2-1/2 years ago. We used a liquid fertilizer (miracle-gro) on the trees. All of our neighbors have a lot of fruit on their trees, even one that was only planted last summer. Before we used a citrus fertilizer, but decided to use miracle-gro when my neighbor used it last year, and had such great results with their fruit. What do you think is the problem? From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:23 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:23 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] American Hibiscus Society Hi, The American Hibiscus Society has a website and also a place to ask questions. You might try WWW.trop-hibiscus.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time, donnvelma@dellnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/24/00 1:24:37 PM Pacific Standard Time From: donnvelma@dellnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Re: Hibiscus plant. Some of the leaves are turning yellow. Several weeks ago Muracid was applied per label instructions. Also just how much water and sunlight does this plant need? Thank you. Velma Steinman >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:28 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:28 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Wind and watering lawns Hi, My suggestion would be to change the method you are using to water. Try a system that is low to the ground so that it can not be blown by the wind. Some people here put a mound of dirt around the edge of there lawn and flood irrigate. I'd hand water if I had to, picking the time of day when the wind is normally light. I use sod, not seed and find it much easier. I'm not sure if this is a new lawn being grown from seed or plugs etc. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time, Clystag@aol.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 4/1/00 11:59:10 AM Pacific Standard Time From: Clystag@aol.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener We recently moved to Bullhead City Az. We are trying to cultivate a lawn using fescue. The problem is the winds. We have ample water, but the winds direct the spray away from the lawn. Is there any soil amendmends you are aware of that would hold moisture in the ground, so if a day goes by without water the area doesn't die? I once saw an additive that was like little jelly drops that would expand when moistened and hold water. It was quite expensive and intended for potted plants. It would be a hit in this area if if could be used in larger quantities for landscaping. Any help would be appreciated. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:26 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:26 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Oak Bush Hello, I didn't find anything called Oak Bush in my resources. My suggestion would be to take a grub hoe or some such tool and go after the roots. By reposting your question maybe someone else will respond with other ideas. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction In a message dated 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time, larued@mohaveaz.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/30/00 9:20:22 AM Pacific Standard Time From: larued@mohaveaz.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener Please tell me how to control oak brush. I have poisoned it and it continues to come back. I have cut it off to ground level and it returns. How many years will the roots live if I keep it cut off at ground level? >> From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:27 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:27 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Re: eppiphyllum cacti scale Hi Rosalyn, I'm not a cactus person but it sound to me more like sun scald then any kind of scale. If it is it is the plants natural way of protecting itself when it was sun burned. You probably have a county extension office that could help you more. I will post your question on the arid_gardener board. (Located in Maricopa County of AZ) We have knowledgeable people subscribed to our board. One of them might be able to give you a better answer but I still think your own county extension office is your best bet. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Volunteer Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time, muts@bellsouth.net writes: << Subj: eppiphyllum cacti scale Date: 3/31/00 10:24:14 AM Pacific Standard Time From: muts@bellsouth.net (Rosalyn Simmons) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com How do you get something that looks like scale off eppis? It will peel off like a scab and is a beige color.We have no info on any chemicals we could safely use on these plants . Any help will be appreciated. Thank you, Rosalyn Simmons, Charleston, S. C. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:25 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:25 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] Bee Problem Hello, Bee's are having a time as they have been attacked by some kind of mite. I don't believe you had any choice though when they took up residence in your house. When this happened to me I sealed places on the outside of my house where bees might gain access (after the hive was exterminated). When I raised bees we always waited until just after dark before moving a hive cause the bees are all home by dark. I imagine the bees you see flying around are those that were out when the bees were exterminated. I don't believe these few bees will survive without the hive for very long. I'd certainly try to seal places on the outside of my house so this cannot occur again. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ In a message dated 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, tsozuna@goodnet.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/28/00 7:00:31 AM Pacific Standard Time From: tsozuna@goodnet.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener This past Friday we had to exterminate a bee colony (professionally) from our patio. It was estimated that there were approx. 1500-2500 bees which were within the framing of the house. They used PT 565 XLO (Pyrethrin) and Residual Pest Dust (5% Sevin). To say the least, I am feeling very guilty that some other method of removal could not be done -- I had thought that there was a shortage of bees. My question: Is there a less "violent" way to remove bees (no visible hive was evident unless it was within the framing of the house)? We notice that a small number of bees continue to congregate in the same area and I don't want to spray them with Raid or call the AAA Africanized Bee Removal Specialists again. I do realize that they may be Africanized -- per AAA ABRS, Honey Bees make their hives in May -- but that does nothing to appease my feelings of guilt. Thank you! Theresa From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri May 5 23:47:24 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:47:24 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [AG] saguaros and woodpeckers Hi, I hope someone has already answered your question but just in case let me say that this is normal. The saguaro will produce a wall around the hole to protect itself. Other birds may also use the holes made by woodpeckers for nesting. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction, AZ In a message dated 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time, mike@advanced-water.com writes: << Subj: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Date: 3/25/00 11:47:30 AM Pacific Standard Time From: mike@advanced-water.com Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu arid_gardener do woodpeckers normally nest in saguaros? or are their holes made to access insects within? i have three pairs of woodpeckers (three species) pecking large holes in one of the giant saguaros on my property in Scottsdale, I am concerned that this may indicate an infestation requiring treatment to save this plant. >> From cnations@earthlink.net Sat May 6 02:33:31 2000 Date: Fri, 5 May 2000 19:33:31 -0700 (MST) From: cnations@earthlink.net cnations@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My female African Sumac (approx 8-10" dia) is radically loosing it's leaves and turning yellow. I fertilized with tree stakes a couple of months ago and have deep watered with no improvement. The big male Sumac (approx 18" dia) 60 feet away is doing fine. Any suggestions.... it really looks bad. From itidon@att.worldnet.net Sat May 6 18:48:29 2000 Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 11:48:29 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@att.worldnet.net itidon@att.worldnet.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet, of 3 to 4 foot plants are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the area where the leaves are off. There is no problem on peppers in the same area. Is this a problem or natural. If a problem, any suggestions to fix. Thanks From the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Sat May 6 19:47:02 2000 Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 12:47:02 -0700 (MST) From: the_al_mighty@hotmail.com the_al_mighty@hotmail.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could anyone please explain to me how and when I have to prune a ficus benjamina ? Many thanks in advance. From curryy@nomadic.com Sat May 6 22:23:28 2000 Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 15:23:28 -0700 (MST) From: curryy@nomadic.com curryy@nomadic.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have my tomato plants from last fall, they are in containers. While they have not produced much, they continue to grow. I have roma, cherry, sweet, celebrity, and patio varieties. I also have bell peppers. I placed a 70% shade cloth cover over the plants. Still, the leaves become brittle and dry, the bell peppers move from green to red while still the size of a half-dollar. My question, how can I assure continual harvest when the temps reach triple-digit, as of recent? And what can I provide the plants to enhance growth? The plants are on the northwest side, the only space available in our yard for the containers. Thank you for any input you can provide. From jranddeb@theriver.com Sat May 6 22:57:40 2000 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 15:57:40 -0700 From: Debbie jranddeb@theriver.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi: I just now found your address on the internet site. Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper. Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. Debbie Morris --=====================_27800916==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.
 
I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.
 
Debbie Morris
 --=====================_27800916==_.ALT-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat May 6 23:03:35 2000 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:03:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Low Water Use Garden Plants You can find low water use garden plants at most nurseries and home centers. It might be helpful to get an idea of what you would like first. There are many excellent books on the subject and I will be happy to pass on a few to you. Some that I have in my personal library are: Low Water Use Plants for California and The Southwest, by Carol Schuler. The Low Water Flower Gardener by Eric A. Johnson and Scott Millard. Native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes by Judy Mielke. The Sunset Western Garden Book (this book contains a plant selection guide which helps you locate plants for particular needs, such as plants for special effects, special situations - including plants for arid gardens - and basic landscaping. You can find all of these books in most bookstores, many nurseries carry them as do many home centers. You may be able to find copies at your local library branch. Having an idea of what plants you might be interested in planting will make your shopping trip a lot easier. The Desert Botanical Garden and Boyce Thompson Arboretum are excellent sources for plants that grow well here in the low desert. They both have a small plant shop and they also hold terrific plant sales twice a year, in the fall and the spring. They both just had their spring sales the end of March to the beginning of April. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener smnoel@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > location to purchase low water garden plants > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sat May 6 23:20:57 2000 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 16:20:57 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Aerating Turfgrass Paul: I found an article entitled, Turfgrass Dethatching and Aeration For Low Elevation Turfs, written by David M. Kopen, University of Arizona. It is publication number MC77 and you should be able to get a copy from the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. The article speaks mostly of Dethatching but on the 2nd page there is a paragraph and a half on aeration. Here is what it says: "Core cultivation (aerification) can be used to minimize thatch accumulation, to modify its physical characteristics, and to remove certain amounts of thatch. Core cultivation is not as effective as power raking in removing thatch debris, but it is less injurious and disruptive. Soil cores are removed during the cultivation process. These cores can be allowed to breakdown and redistribute soil throughout the thatch. The soil modifies the physical structure of the thatch, making it a better growing medium. Soil incorporation also enhances thatch breakdown by improving physical properties of thatch and introducing microorganisms. Soil cultivation should be done once a year during the vigorous growing season for bermudagrass to minimize thatch accumulation. Most turfgrasses growing on heavy clay or highly disturbed soils require annual cultiviation to restrict thatch buildup. Core cultivation is not a substitute for dethatching! Core cultivation allows air, water and nutrients to penetrate the soil. This is especially important if soils are compacted. Better turf growth results from aerification due to the increased root growth which follows soil cultivation. Aerification can be done once a year on home lawn and commercial turfs when the turf is actively growing. Do not attempt to core cultivate if the soil is very dry, or poor penetration will result". I hope this provides you with the information you were seeking. Sue Bass Master Gardener Retiredplc@aol.com wrote: > Good Morning, > > Have searched the Master Gardner site and find nothing relative to aerating. > > At our Homeowners Association, we are thinking about aerating the property > ($1350) to improve our Bermuda grass this summer. Some areas just seem to > have a problem. > > Comments please. > > Paul From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat May 6 23:30:22 2000 Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 19:30:22 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Citrus not bearing fruit Citrus normally do not bear fruit until they have been planted 4 to 5 years, so it is not unusual for your trees not to be bearing fruit yet. The newly planted trees that you mentioned with fruit will probably drop most or all of it before the year is finished. It is natures way of protecting the tree when it is not ready to bear fruit. As for the fertilizer, I would recommend that you go back to the citrus fertilizer, it has the nutrients that citrus need in this area. The U of A Extension has an excellent bulletin titled "Citrus Trees in the Home Garden" available for $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 or you can make a copy at your local library. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 00:12:37 2000 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:12:37 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Pruning Bush Morning Glory and Green Cloud Sage Pruning of the Green Cloud Sage is really done to maintain a shape that you prefer so it is generally pruned whenever maintenance appears to be needed. The shrub, if left alone, can grow to a height and width of about 6' x 6' with a nicely rounded habit. My sources say that this plant responds well to pruning and shaping which is why you rarely see an unpruned speciman. It can be pruned as a hedge or screen. I have this shrub in my yard and I leave it in a more natural form, however I prune the height when necessary so as not to obscure my front windows. Pruning it does not necessarily cause it to grow larger. As for watering, deep watering once every few weeks in the summer is generally sufficient. While the plant is drought tolerant, extreme dryness will cause the plant to shed some leaves. You can use this a gauge to to increase frequency of watering. I've been successful with mine on a schedule of every 10 days on a drip for 2 hours at a time. This ensures the deep watering and flushes salts away from the roots. The Bush Morning Glory generally blooms through May so once blooming is finished it would be fine to prune it. Pruning this plant is usually done when it starts to get leggy and it can be pruned pretty severly to renew growth. I also have this plant and it is on the same watering schedule as the Green Cloud Sage and it has been doing fine for the past 5 years. I hope this information will be helpful to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener jezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > could you please tell me when the proper time to trim the following bushes or plants. > bush morning glory and green clove sage. when > you trim does these mean the bush will grow larger in diameter. > > could you please tell me a good watering schedule for the summer, i have a automatic watering system or drip line to each plant,tree, and bush > > thank you and keep up the good work > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 00:53:46 2000 Date: Sat, 06 May 2000 17:53:46 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Fwd: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe Terry: I didn't see that you had received a response to your question. If you have already, I apologize for any repeat information. You can contact the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office about two publications we have. One is pub. 8363, Mesquites in the Landscape and the other is pub. 8446, Palo Verdes in the Landscape. Both publications discuss species, landscape uses, soil, water, fertilization, pruning and problems, including mistletoe. Information on securing publications can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm As for the Phainopeplas, I don't have an answer for you, but I have contacted an acquaintance who is a member of the Maricopa Audubon Society. I have asked her if she can recommend someone who would be able to help you. I'll let you know when I get some information. If you are interested, they have a website which can be reached at: http://www.amug.org/~drowley/mas/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Lucy Bradley wrote: > arid_gardener > Please reply to > > Terry Carter > > >Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 21:24:00 -0700 > >From: Terry Carter > >Subject: Mesquite/Palo Verde & Mistletoe > > > >I have volunteered to do our Home Owner Association > >Newsletter and wonder if you can help me with an article on > >Mesquite/Palo Verde Trees and the problem of mistletoe. > > > >Several of the homeowners in our association are very > >concerned about the number of trees that are dying from what > >appears to be an over abundance of mistletoe. Others are > >concerned about the well being of the Phainopelas. > > > >I would like to help both sides and maybe include tips on > >the proper care and maintenance of the two trees. > > > >Any information you might be able to provide would be > >greatly appreciated. > > > >Thank you. > > > >Terry Carter > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From mhills_sro@msn.com Sun May 7 06:43:21 2000 Date: Sat, 6 May 2000 23:43:21 -0700 (MST) From: mhills_sro@msn.com mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page RE: Peach Tree problems A friend in Ahwatukee, Arizona stumped me this April with a problem on her Red Haven Peach Tree. Thought I'd try posting this question to see if any of you have ideas for her to try. This is her second peach tree in 3 years to go down this same road. The other tree is about 50 feet away from this one, was a different variety and ended up dying completely after 2 years of wasting away. The second tree is about 7 years old, with a 7-8 inch diameter trunk and is about 18 feet tall. Has been an excellent yielder in past - last good harvest was 1998. The 1999 peach crop was very small on this tree, with many of the peaches mummifying on the tree. This spring, the tree barely came out of dormancy - all twigs and branches are pliable, but there are only about 50 leaves on the entire tree and maybe 5 blossoms. My friend Chere is most concerned about the balls of sap all over the main trunk, as well as any side branches of an inch or larger. Don't see cracks in the bark or anything similar, just lots of large hardened balls of sap that started showing up this past Fall. The tree is well cared for - good pruning practices, plenty of water, rich soil and well-fertilized. Chere is a University of Arizona Ag College major, but tree diseases are outside her specialty. Any ideas? If so, is it contagious and does she need to worry about other nearby trees - peach, plum, fig and ash? Mike Hills Phoenix, Arizona From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 17:15:10 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:15:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Phaenopepla and mistletoe Terry: I received a response from Laurie Nessel with the Maricopa Audubon Society. Laurie says: Phaenopepla are inextricably linked to mistletoe. They feed mainly on it, and also nest in the clumps of mistletoe . . . . The Phaenopepla will have to find new territory where there is still mistletoe. For more information, contact non-game branch. Try Troy Corman 789-3508 or Lori Averill Murray at 789-3577." Sue Bass Master Gardener From frankf@juno.com Sun May 7 15:25:36 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 08:25:36 -0700 (MST) From: frankf@juno.com frankf@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 17:29:31 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 10:29:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Yellow leaves on hibiscus Frank: This is a very common question. For an answer I turned to the Tropical Hibiscus Home Page, found at: trop-hibiscus.com. Following is their answer to this question: Basically, for two reasons: 1. The leaves are old and the plant is discarding them. 2. The plant is under some stress. That stress may be from a too strong dosage of fertilizer it recently got or its soil has been too wet recently or some insecticide was applied improperly or its root system was disrupted or lighting conditions in a new location are very different from the old one. It could also be a disease. There are many possible reasons. Sometimes yellow leaves (from stress) are indicative of a problem and sometimes it simply indicates a temporary discomfort the plant is having. You can get a lot of good growing information at the above site. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener frankf@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Why do the leaves on my hibiscus turn yellow? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 7 18:57:57 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 14:57:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Hibiscus yellow leaves Over or under watering will cause plant leaves to turn yellow. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod From cernetic@uswest.net Sun May 7 20:23:44 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 13:23:44 -0700 (MST) From: cernetic@uswest.net cernetic@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? Could someone also educate me ont the difference between bare root plants and regular plants. Do you know of any Web sites that give information on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 21:39:16 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:39:16 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie: I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline. Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225. They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents. There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population. You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing. Good luck. Sue Bass Master Gardener "Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > Hi: > I just now found your address on the internet site. Have > a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of > Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. > About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with > termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people > who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just > spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish > soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs > growing around it. We did this, and the termite problem > left. Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is > starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely > surface deep, but a few are deeper. > > Can you advise us on what to do, please. I love this > saguaro, and it would kill me if it died. Please respond. > > I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer. > > Debbie Morris --------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie:
I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant questions hotline.  Their hours are Monday - Friday, 10 - 11:30 a.m. (480) 941-1225.  They specialize in questions about cacti and succulents.

There is a disease called Bacterial Necrosis which is prevalent throughout the natural saguaro population.  You can view a publication on this disease at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm
You can check and see if any of the symptoms listed match what you are seeing.

Good luck.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener

"Debbie by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

Hi:
I just now found your address on the internet site.  Have a question: We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms.  About 2 years ago, it started getting infested with termites.  I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people who specialize in Saguaros.  Found someone who said just spray it down really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; just water. And told us to clear away all shrubs growing around it.  We did this, and the termite problem left.  Now 2 years later, the base of the cacus is starting to develop splits in it. Most are now just barely surface deep, but a few are deeper.

Can you advise us on what to do, please.  I love this saguaro, and it would kill me if it died.  Please respond.

I sincerely thank you for your anticipated answer.

Debbie Morris

--------------D98F1FE67479C109F2A05A5E-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 21:52:34 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 14:52:34 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Sick plant - Banana yucca --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy: Have you received a response to your question? If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers. I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline. Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday. (480) 941-1225. Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote: > We are not entirely certain about what the plant in > question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't > see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish > green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground. > It is approximately 3 years old. I recall being told not > to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, > so that's OK. > > Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft > of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, > and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base > of the leaves inside the plant. What has happened, and is > there anything we could do to help save this plant? > > Judy Moler > Phoenix --------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy:
Have you received a response to your question?  If not, I apologize - we have been a bit short on volunteers.  I would suggest calling the Desert Botanical Garden plant question hotline.  Their hours are 10:00 - 11:30, Monday through Friday.  (480) 941-1225.  Since they specialize in desert plants I'm sure they could give some good information on this problem.

Good Luck!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
dmoler40 by way of Lucy Bradley " wrote:

We are not entirely certain about what the plant in question is--I think it may be a banana yucca, but I don't see any reason for that name as it has stiff, grayish green, sharply pointed leaves emanating from the ground.  It is approximately 3 years old.  I recall being told not to expect flowers, but we think the plant is attractive, so that's OK.

Problem is that this week we discovered the center shaft of new, unopened leaves has turned brown and dead looking, and an oozy, tar like substance has collected at the base of the leaves inside the plant.  What has happened, and is there anything we could do to help save this plant?

Judy Moler
Phoenix

--------------D64458AD3982F78C3A7A9BD6-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 22:39:35 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 15:39:35 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Gerberas as house plants According to two sources I have, Gerbera Daisies can be grown indoors. Information found in the Sunset Western Garden Book states that as a house or greenhouse plant they should be grown in bright light with night temperatures of 60 degrees. They need good soil with excellent drainage. They bloom any time of year with peaks in early summer, late fall. My other source is the American Horticultural Society A-Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants. This book states that they can be grown in a soil-based potting mix in bright filtered light. During the growing season, water freely and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every 4 weeks. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstiegrl20@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Is it possible to keep gerbera daisies as indoor plants, if so how can I keep them blooming? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From obeles@gateway.net Sun May 7 23:00:32 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:00:32 -0700 From: obeles obeles@gateway.net Subject: [AG] White Spots This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly white spots on the leaves of my = oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato plants. What's = causing it -- watering practices, pests? I've looked closely at the = plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any insects, such as = white flies or aphids. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks for = your help. Linda Obele ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Lately I've been noticing dry, scaly = white spots on=20 the leaves of my oregano and mint plants, as well as a bit on my tomato=20 plants.  What's causing it -- watering practices, pests?  I've = looked=20 closely at the plants and don't seem to notice the presence of any = insects, such=20 as white flies or aphids.  Has anyone else experienced this?  = Thanks=20 for your help.
 
Linda Obele
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BFB83D.5FDB8100-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sun May 7 23:56:30 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 16:56:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Summer flowers for containers We have a very good publication and plant table that you can view on line. You can find it by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers The table will give you lists of flower and bedding plants, their planting and flowering times, their lighting and watering needs and their difficulty to grow among other information. I think it will help you with making choices for your containers. Sue Bass Master Gardener wclipper@earthlink.net wrote: > arid_gardener > What type of flowers besides vinca grow well in the summer? They would be container plants. Some would be in containers facing east and some would be in patio area shaded by afternoon sun. Your response would be most appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Sun May 7 23:49:01 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:49:01 -0700 (MST) From: tessier.g@worldnet.att.net tessier.g@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page hello... i live in central florida. what is the best way to grow a sago palm? From Ronan.1931@aol.com Sun May 7 23:37:59 2000 Date: Sun, 7 May 2000 16:37:59 -0700 (MST) From: Ronan.1931@aol.com Ronan.1931@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a queen palm and its leaves are hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. From sjbass@uswest.net Mon May 8 00:09:32 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:09:32 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Queen Palm problem We have a publication which you can view on line at the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals It is called Arizona Landscape Palms, publication AZ1021. The brochure provides not only information on specific palms but also care of established palms and diseases and insect pests. This particular section includes symptoms and cultural treatment. I hope this information will assist you in a diagnosis of your palm's particular problem. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ronan.1931@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a queen palm and its leaves are > hanging way down and turning brown. I would appreciate any information on how to take care of Queen Palms. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Mon May 8 00:20:17 2000 Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 17:20:17 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Sago Palm - Florida The Sago Palm is a small, compact plant that is actually not a true palm, but a cycad. The plant is slow growing, producing new leaves only once a year. The Sago Palm makes an excellent tub or planter subject. It is effective when combined with other tropical and subtropical plants. It is evergreen, grows to a height of 6-10'. It requires part to full shade. Its spread is 3-5'. It requires good quality garden soil and regular irrigation encourages best growth and appearance. The plants may sunburn with full to reflected sun and heat, especially when grown as container plants. For information specific to your part of the country, I would suggest you contact your local County Cooperative Extension Office. You can find them in the phone book or check out the following web site where you can locate the office in your county: http://www.ifas.ufl.edu/www/extension/index.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener tessier.g@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > hello... i live in central florida. > what is the best way to grow a sago palm? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From LauraSimms@go.com Mon May 8 16:52:48 2000 Date: Mon, 08 May 2000 09:52:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Laura Simms LauraSimms@go.com Subject: [AG] (no subject) It does not look like this message posted correctly on the list, so I'll try it again. This e-mail is in response to the question: i'd like to learn how tolandscape my backyard using low water-low maintenance plants from the sw-where can i look on the web?where can i obtain landscape ideas? My husband and I have just finished re-landscaping our front yard with native and desert-adapted plants. We found several sources for information. The Desert Botanical Gardens has lots of ideas and plenty of people to help you out. They also have lots of books and other material. The Glendale Library on 59th Ave just north of Olive Ave has a demonstration garden that you can walk through with most of the plants labelled. The library also has several free pamphlets on xeriscaping just inside the library's entryway. You might want to look at the Arizona Native Plant Society's webpage http://www.azstarnet.com/~anps/index.html. They have several publications that you can purchase and lots of other information on their website. The Arizona Municipal Water Users Association has a website with more info on xeriscaping: http://www.amwua.org/. Of course, the Maricopa County Extension's website has plenty of info too. Finally, you might want to check out this website on the plants on the southwest http://www.plantsofthesouthwest.com Hope this helps! Have fun! Laura Simms Average Gardener laurasimms@go.com ___________________________________________________ GO Network Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From raguisto@uswest.net Mon May 8 16:01:18 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 09:01:18 -0700 (MST) From: raguisto@uswest.net raguisto@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed bulbs can be planted, How?? Thank you very much. From itidon@worldnet.att.net Mon May 8 15:54:18 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 08:54:18 -0700 (MST) From: itidon@worldnet.att.net itidon@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 2 days ago I sent the following E-mail and misstakenly had a error in my address (att and worldnet were reversed). Sorry. On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From ultratica@aol.com Mon May 8 21:21:09 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 14:21:09 -0700 (MST) From: ultratica@aol.com ultratica@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I visited Phoenix recently and noticed a lot of landscaping was done using a small rock that resembles lava rock, could you tell me what it is called, and do you think that this technique could be used here in Florida where I live?, thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 8 22:55:38 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 18:55:38 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Rose dying Nurse 303, If your rose planted in January has not shown any growth or doesn't have green leaves it is time to dig it up. The location is not the best, the rose should have at least 5 hours of sunshine and preferably morning sun. It is not unusual for bareroot roses to fail to get started. I've planted several hundred roses and I would guess that 10% didn't make it. If the canes have dried out too much at planting time or they were not watered properly than the chances of survival are not good. I'm enclosing an article on Planting Roses that I had published in the Republic recently. Hope it is helpful. You might want to consider joining one of the rose societies in the valley, If you live in the east valley come join the Mesa East Valley Rose Society which meets on the 2nd Thursday of each month at the Student Center at Mesa Community College at 7.00 PM And while there you can stop to see the over 3000 rose bush garden planted by our rose society. Good luck Rod December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian. From madasmith@aol.com Mon May 8 22:40:12 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 15:40:12 -0700 (MST) From: madasmith@aol.com madasmith@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I prune my Fairy duster alittle right now? When can I cut it way back? I would like to cut it back to the ground, can I cut it that much? From keithb@sisna.com Tue May 9 00:59:02 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 17:59:02 -0700 (MST) From: keithb@sisna.com keithb@sisna.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted a peach tree 2-years ago, the first year it had fruit, the second year if froze and had no fruit, this year it looked real good but when the blossoms started to come out they would just turn brown and fall off before completely opening up? What can I do to help my peach tree? Thank You From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 15:16:24 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:16:24 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] When to harvest Garlic From you description, I assume you have the top-setting hard neck type. The bulbs may be slightly larger if the scape is removed but will be harder when cured and store better if left intact. The number of leaves reflects the number of wrappers around the bulb. A dry leaf indicates that wrapper is either dying off or has already died off. The recommendation is to harvest when there are still a few green leaves. If you wait until all of the leaves have died off, the wrappers may come off, water and fungi may already have entered the bulb between the cloves, and they won't store as well. When harvesting with green leaves with the wrappers still firmly covering the bulb, you need to pay more attention to curing to prevent molds and fungus after harvesting. This from my personal experience - others have different opinions. There does not appear to be a consensus so I recommend experimenting both ways with the same crop to see what works best for you. The size of the garlic bulb is related to the size of the seed clove and to the size of the bulb the clove came from. For this reason I have never tried growing from the bulbils from the top of the scape but always select the seed clove from the bulbs. Bulbils from other top setting alliums (e.g., Egyptian onions and walking onions) produce plants so I assume the garlic bulbils would as well, but I suspect you might get rounds instead of bulbs with cloves. Olin Miller ---- Original Message ----- From: > I planted some garlic this past fall and had read that they should > be harvested when the tops fall over. The leaves have started > to turn yellowish brown an have started to have long shoots of > a seed bulb (?) from the center. My two part question is, should > I be patient and wait for the tops of the plant to fall over (similar > to the way my onion tops fall over)? And secondly can the seed > bulbs that look like tiny bulbs of garlic be planted? If the seed > bulbs can be planted, How?? From Gregcm2@aol.com Tue May 9 15:54:25 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:54:25 -0700 (MST) From: Gregcm2@aol.com Gregcm2@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 15:45:31 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 08:45:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Raspberries and Bare Root Plants Raspberries are not adapted to the desert climate around Phoenix. If you want to try it anyway (as I did), choose a variety with the lowest chill requirement. There some low chill black berry types which would be a better choice. Deciduous trees and shrubs are usually available as bare root stock. They are dug up when the plant is dormant. The soil is removed from the roots, then the plant roots are packed in damp saw dust (usually) for shipment. Around Phoenix, the plant should be planted in late winter to establish the roots before it breaks dormancy, through January to about mid February. "Regular" plants are grown in containers or dug up from their growing area with the root ball intact and placed in containers or wrapped in burlap. Bare root plants which did not sell during the normal planting season are often available later in containers. In theory, you could plant container plants at any time but the hot summer months are very stressful to non-desert type plants so it's best to wait until October. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > When is the best time to plant Black Raspberries? > Could someone also educate me ont the difference > between bare root plants and regular plants. > Do you know of any Web sites that give information > on planting and growing Black Reaspberries? > My dad used to grow them successfully in Tucson. > I live in the Ahwatukee area of Phoenix. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 16:17:21 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Tomato Blossom End Rot There is an abundance of calcium available in our desert soil. If blossom end rot is the only problem, it more likely to be caused by a combination of drought and then drowning the plant. Before adding calcium, be certain to establish regular watering practices. Calcium may be added as calcium sulfate supplied in agricultural/horticultural gypsum. See also http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/blsm-rot.htm for more information about this problem. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > One of my tomato plants has blossom end rot on half of its tomatoes. It is separate from my other plants ( an experoment). It has been wateredand fertilized with Miracle- Gro for Tomatoes regularly and consistently so I must assume a calcium defiency. How do I add calcium? From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Tue May 9 04:28:29 2000 Date: Mon, 8 May 2000 21:28:29 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a Pomagranate tree in my backyard. We planted it a year ago. The first fruit was very poor, very dry, quite frankly it was no good to eat. The tree is now in it's 2nd blooming and fruit is set on the tree. What should I be doing to assure good fruit this season. The tree was in bloom when we purchased it & it was in a 5 gal.container. So was fairly good size. From NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Tue May 9 17:36:51 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:51 -0700 (MST) From: NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM NLHARRRIS@AOL.COM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My verbena is drying out. It is getting enough water, but the plants seem to have a short life span....1 - 2 seasons. They have Western exposure, good drainage....any suggestions? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 17:36:02 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:36:02 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 9 17:44:31 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 10:44:31 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Lower Tomato Leaves Dying Message is resent to change subject line Happens to me often with older plants near the end of their fruit bearing cycle. But it's still pretty early for that with spring-planted tomatoes. I recommend checking the following sites to see if there is a description of the problem and cure for your situation. Not all of the conditions occur in our area. The 4th url indicates applicable regiions. Good Luck. Olin Miller http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7627.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7626.pdf http://agweb.okstate.edu/pearl/plantdiseases/f-7625.pdf http://www.anet-chi.com/~manytimes/page26.htm ----- Original Message -----From: >... > On several of my tomato plants the leaves on the lower half, 1.5 to 2 feet of 3 to 4 foot plants, are turning brown, dying and falling off. The green tomatos appear to be all right and growing even in the areas with no leaves. There is no problem on pepper plants in the same area. Is this a problem or natural? If a problem, any suggestions? Thanks. From cmaldo@uswest.net Tue May 9 21:34:56 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 14:34:56 -0700 (MST) From: cmaldo@uswest.net cmaldo@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought a 6 station Champion irrigation watering timer and was wondering how to set it for watering. My grass has sprinklers in the front and back. Should I water every other day for 10 min. I have Qween palms and dessert shrubs on drip in the front and back. Should they be every 3rd day for one hour? They are both in front and back. I have shade trees, citrus, and peach trees in back on flood irrigation, should they be watered every 14 days. I wasn't sure. Could you tell me if my set up is accurate or should I water more or less? Thank you. Cindy From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 9 23:29:36 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 19:29:36 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [AG] Irrigation Cindy, If you have flood irrigation in part of your yard, it should be very adequate for your trees and shrubs unless you happen to be growing roses or some other non native plants that must be watered more often than every two weeks. Your drip irrigated trees should be deep watered to a depth in excess of three feet which you won't do in one hour. I suggest that you check out these websites on irrigation where your questions will be answered. http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sasutton@ktc.com Wed May 10 03:13:41 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 20:13:41 -0700 (MST) From: sasutton@ktc.com sasutton@ktc.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 10 04:33:59 2000 Date: Tue, 9 May 2000 21:33:59 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Gopher Tunnels in Root Ares Gopher tunnels in the watering basin can drain water away from the roots of a plant and cause it to decline. Plugging the holes (may be difficult) should help. I have a mature grapefruit tree which had the problem several years ago. The leaves were dying and it did not appear to be healthy. Plugging the holes before irrigating didn't work - the water would find a way to drain away through the tunnels. I finally converted to drip irrigation with 1 gph emitters spaced at 1 foot on a half-inch drip line at the canopy (a 15 foot dia canopy required 52 emitters). The tree recovered, I sometimes still have the gopher hole problem, but with drip irrigation the water soaks in and doesn't drain away. So, if you can't eliminate the gophers and plug the tunnels, you might consider converting to drip irrigation scaled to the needs of the specific plant. Olin Miller .---- Original Message ----- From: > Customer states Japenese Boxwood's have been at this location for 20 years. Indescreminate dieing. Notice of gopher tunnels to the effected area of death to shrubs. The live growth to the uneffected shrubs were normal to my eye. Meaning no apparent disease. Only a small sample was given to me, however customer states that he has noticed that some of the uneffected shrubs were beginning to exhibit signs of die back. Could all of this be to the gopher tunnels noticed??? I live in a very small town and I am the one everybody comes to with their problems . Please help with any information you can. Thank You and your kind attention would be very much appreciated. > Greenthumb sasutton@ktc.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Wed May 10 15:31:15 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 08:31:15 -0700 (MST) From: Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Roland.Hanson@asu.edu Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have an older grapefruit tree (probably 45 years old) It is sort of dying from the top with the bark either peeling off dry or else a sort of white canker developing in large areas on the bark. Probably this is a sign that the tree is just getting too old and will die. We have pruned off quite a bit but most of the top of the tree is gone. Is there anything to do or should one just cut out the tree and start over. We have an irrigated lot in Tempe. Thanks From jbbell310@cs.com Wed May 10 17:10:40 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:10:40 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page there is a white fuzzy looking substance on the undersides of stems on my bower vine (pandorea jasminoides) also on celosia plants. What do I do? These are new plants. From jbbell310@cs.com Wed May 10 17:12:35 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 10:12:35 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our new puppy chewed most of the bark off of a two year old orange tree, one major branch has died. will the entire tree die? can I paint over this? From tderieg@goodnet.com Wed May 10 19:26:35 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 12:26:35 -0700 From: Tom Derieg tderieg@goodnet.com Subject: [AG] fertilizer for hibiscus This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20 ------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Should I use Miracle-gro or Miracid or both on the hibiscus?=20
------=_NextPart_000_004A_01BFBA7A.FB6770E0-- From kwwa@aol.com Wed May 10 20:25:32 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) From: kwwa@aol.com kwwa@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. From scorpion10310@juno.com Wed May 10 20:42:15 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:42:15 -0700 (MST) From: scorpion10310@juno.com scorpion10310@juno.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my shamel ash tree leaves keep blowing/shedding when the winds blows? Also can the seeds from tree be prevented from growing? Thanks From g.ross@mindspring.com Wed May 10 21:26:44 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 14:26:44 -0700 (MST) From: g.ross@mindspring.com g.ross@mindspring.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On several plant limbs I have noticed rows of small white deposits that could be eggs. They are easily rubbed off. Any idea what it may be? I also have planted a Hong Kong Orchard tree and something is eating sizeable holes in the leaves. I have inspected the tree for any sign of insects and cannot find a thing. The same thing is happening with a Crepe Myrtle. Any idea what to look for? or how to deal with these problems? From Kamerakaye@aol.com Thu May 11 00:51:44 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:51:44 -0700 (MST) From: Kamerakaye@aol.com Kamerakaye@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? From dtharris2@cs.com Thu May 11 00:25:19 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 17:25:19 -0700 (MST) From: dtharris2@cs.com dtharris2@cs.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a gardenia that until recently has looked very nice. Most of the white flowers look brown and diseased. I am watering them plenty. I also have a ficus tree about 5 feet tall. The problem is the trunk tapers down to such a small diameter the the top foot and a half can't hold itself up. Should I top the tree? Thank you in advance for your help. From azneet@aol.com Thu May 11 04:51:42 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 21:51:42 -0700 (MST) From: azneet@aol.com azneet@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a pyracanthia bush that has white fuzzy stuff on it. It looks like similar to cotton. I have sprayed with water, which washes some of it away, but it is never completely gone. Do you know if this is a fungus? If so how do I get rid of it? Also, how do I care for a star-jasmine? Thanks for your response. From puzzleboard@yahoo.com Thu May 11 05:49:07 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:49:07 -0700 (MST) From: puzzleboard@yahoo.com puzzleboard@yahoo.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a Pomegranate tree. The fruit on it is very dry inside/pulpy & not good to eat. What do I need to do to obtain good fruit on this tree. Thank you. From jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Thu May 11 05:44:41 2000 Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 22:44:41 -0700 (MST) From: jdemeloitz@prodigy.net jdemeloitz@prodigy.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am buying a new house in Peoria and will be moving in about the end of July. The rear yard is about 65 feet wide by 40 feet deep. I want to find a book or web site devoted to plans or design ideas to guide me in preparing a desert theme, simple back yard area. I checked the Chandler public library but they didn't have what I'm looking for. I don't know if anyone does. I would appreciate any help you can give me. I will have to start the whole project from scratch. From carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Thu May 11 13:51:25 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:51:25 -0700 (MST) From: carla.manley@worldnet.att.net carla.manley@worldnet.att.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks From David.W.Norton@aexp.com Thu May 11 13:14:47 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 06:14:47 -0700 (MST) From: David.W.Norton@aexp.com David.W.Norton@aexp.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water should I give to a sego palm? It gets direct sun until early afternoon. Leaves are yellowing. But I have new growth. They have been planted for about a month. Also, should I remove the dead flowers from an african daisy? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 14:19:25 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:19:25 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Palo Verde Web Worms We just learned about these yesterday morning from Ag Agent Terry Mikel at the Monthly Update for Master Gardeners. We're not sure why there are more of these this year than most, but this cousin of the tent caterpillar has been noted valley-wide and in particular Terry is receiving worried calls from nurseries who anticipate trouble selling impacted trees in the short term. [It's hard for them to tell a customer 'trust me'.] These web worms target the palos [breas and verdes] and old/new world acacias [excl. Australian]. If you have these, check them out, too. HOWEVER, this is strictly cosmetic damage, and Terry assures us that the branches will eventually leaf out, so do not prune them away. Web worms will focus on the tender new ends at the terminals, so unless the tree is very young and you fear that the infestation will have a dramatic impact, you have several options. Leave the tree alone. Spray well with water to hose them off. Use Bt [bacillus thuringiensis] which is the traditional organic approach to any caterpillar. Or use Sevin. Terry notes that the best time to spray is after sundown, since these are nocturnal critters. Avoid the temptation to overwater these native trees. You'll just produce more luxuriant and voluminous vegetation to have to prune. Take heart in knowing it is nothing that you did, that you are not alone! Linda Guy Master Gardener Kamerakaye@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > My young palo verde trees are suffering from some kind of parasite...the ends of the branches are covered with a sinewy, spider-web-like substance which is encasing what leaves are there. One of the trees has no leaves at all. They all receive regular irrigation...one is a Sonoran palo verde and two are blue palo verdes. What can I do to treat the trees before more damage is done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From sjbass@uswest.net Thu May 11 14:34:06 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:34:06 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Carla: I found this site on the web pertaining to Orchids. There is a frequently asked questions section as well as a section on "Where to Grow", if you choose "in the home" it appears that it will provide you with all the information you need. Visit http://orchidweb.org/ Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener carla.manley@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 14:41:02 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:41:02 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale Unfortunately, all our College of Ag materials suggest that little can be done to contain your problem. I've read that the females do not need the males to reproduce. As an example, I enclose a link to the relevant section of the Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html The scale insect attaches itself to grass roots and siphons off water and nutrients. The plant responds by forming a cyst or gall around the insect, but will still suffer, brown up and die. As you have experienced, small infestations grow larger quite quickly. Evidently, the immature insect overwinters within these cysts and emerge in May to find new feeding sites. [This is only a warm season turf problem.] In reviewing the Sunset Western Garden Problem Solver, it suggests removing and disposing of affected sod before it spreads too far. You may be beyond this point. Watering in beneficial nematodes during April and May may provide some control if they can attack the scale insects when they emerge from the cysts. Perhaps another list member has something up his/her sleeve to help you. Linda Guy Master Gardener kwwa@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > PEARL SCALE HAS TAKEN OVER MY LAWN. CAN ANYTHING BE DONE TO CONTROL THIS. I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY PRODUCT THAT SUGGESTS A CURE. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From nfk54401@home.com Thu May 11 15:03:18 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:18 -0700 From: Norma Kafer nfk54401@home.com Subject: [AG] Re: Orchid care Sue, The Orchid Society of Arizona has a web site at http://welcome.to/orchidsocietyaz We meet the first Thursday at 7:00 at the Valley Garden Center 1809 N. 15th Ave. We have a grower on call every month plus all the officers are on line. Most of the members are new growers and we gear our meetings to them. Our program this month was potting orchid seedlings which were donated and no cost to the participant. If you need more information, please get in touch with me. Thanks. Norma Kafer Master Gardener Sue Bass wrote: > > arid_gardener > Carla: > I found this site on the web pertaining to Orchids. There is a frequently asked questions section as > well as a section on "Where to Grow", if you choose "in the home" it appears that it will provide you > with all the information you need. Visit http://orchidweb.org/ > > Good Luck! > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > carla.manley@worldnet.att.net wrote: > > > arid_gardener > > a friend gave me an orchid plant to take care of while she is gone for the summer. Help!!!! Thanks > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Archives - > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 14:52:36 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:52:36 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Insect IDs The latter is probably a leaf-cutter bee. No controls are recommended for this native beneficial insect which is a useful pollinator. You can easily identify its damage, which are pieces of leaf taken for its nest, by the very precise circular/ovoid holes in the foliage. It's as if someone had taken scissors to your plants! They prefer to snack on roses, but are known to use any plant with a firm, shiny leaf. As to the white film/egg deposits, could you provide a bit more detail? In the meantime, here's a link to the Entomology section of the Master Gardener Manual to assist you. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/index.html Linda Guy Master Gardener g.ross@mindspring.com wrote: > arid_gardener > On several plant limbs I have noticed rows of small white deposits that could be eggs. They are easily rubbed off. Any idea what it may be? > I also have planted a Hong Kong Orchard tree and something is eating sizeable holes in the leaves. I have inspected the tree for any sign of insects and cannot find a thing. The same thing is happening with a Crepe Myrtle. Any idea what to look for? or how to deal with these problems? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 15:02:38 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:02:38 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Candle Cactus Yellowing I believe your question has been around for a while because most of us volunteering our time to answer these questions are only somewhat conversant in cactus/succulent cultivation. So I'd like to suggest that you contact the Desert Botanical Garden, whose specialty this is, at their hotline, M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225. However, I'd be willing to bet that the problem is twofold: overwatering and use of highly chlorinated water, both from the pool. You may need to move your plant, which may also make sense from a human safety standpoint! If you do so, remember to replant it in its original orientation to avoid sunscalding. Sorry for our much delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener d_sharpe60@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I am growing a candle cactus (trichocereus pachanoi) next to my swimming pool and it is not doing well. It is no longer green but yellowing. Could the chlorine fumes from the pool be hurting the cactus? Should I move it to the front yard? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 15:08:44 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:08:44 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Irrigating Native Trees The latest issue [March/April] of our Horticultural Communicator has a GREAT table that addresses the yearround needs of any plant. If you are interested in ordering a copy, see http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm In short, desert-adapted species should be watered to a depth of 3-4 feet every three weeks or so in the summer. Because you are referring to box trees, I'm assuming that you have recently planted them. Any newly planted tree, even adapted ones, may need supplemental water to be established in their first summer. You'll know if you're overwatering by the amount of plant material you'll be pruning throughout the summer! The more water, the more vegatative growth. Linda Guy Master Gardener kkope@valleycrest.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How many gallons of water a day is required for a Desert species 24" box tree in the summer? Also how many gallons of water a day is required for a Desert species 48" box tree in the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 15:40:03 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:40:03 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Sago Palm Yellowing; Deadheading African Daisies In our zone, and in my personal experience, the sago likes much more shade than you are providing it now. [Mine is in full shade.] You may need to move it to a place that is closer to full shade, avoiding even reflected sunlight and heat. Refer to our palm publication which is available online at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf It needs regular watering, but if you have dense clay soil, be careful not to drown the roots. If you want your African Daisies to reseed for next year, and they can do so prolifically, do not remove the flower heads. Refer to our publication and accompanying table on flowers at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Linda Guy Master Gardener David.W.Norton@aexp.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How much water should I give to a sego palm? It gets direct sun until early afternoon. Leaves are yellowing. But I have new growth. They have been planted for about a month. > > Also, should I remove the dead flowers from an african daisy? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 15:48:33 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:48:33 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Bur Clover Bur clover is a winter annual in bermuda lawns. From our Fact Sheet MC 51 on common urban weeds, there is not selective preemergent that will control it. You will need to apply an herbicide next winter before the plant blooms. The weed will begin to germinate again from October/November through March. If you still have some in your lawn, the best thing you can do is pull it now, to avoid having it set more seed for next year [although it may be too late for that]. The fact sheet lists a sample of brand names that will address this, like Ortho weed-b-gon lawn weed killer. A list of our publications is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener suecwil@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do I rid my yard of bermuda grass of burr clover? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 15:59:29 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:59:29 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Dry Fruit on Tangerine In reviewing an old citrus publication, it says that the Clementine or Algerian tangerine is highly frost-sensitive, and by this I am now referring to the fruit itself. It should be planted with other tangerine/tangelo varieties for cross-pollination. The fruit is often dry if it is left on the tree past minimum maturity [] or when budded on rough lemon rootstock. Fairchild, Fremont and Kinnow are also better producers when cross-pollinated. You may have a variety that tends to be alternate bearing [fewer fruits everyother year] like Dancy, Fairchild or Kinnow. If so, perhaps this is the leaner year for the fruits. I don't know that this necessarily means the fruit is less tasty or juicy, however. Our more recent publication on citrus varieties suggests that when you store mandarins/ tangerines, that you remove a portion of the stem as well. The skin of the fruit is so thin that a section of the peel may be removed, leading to dessication or decay, if you simply pull it off the tree. Check out our citrus pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus Sorry for our much delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener raftwo@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have lot of fruit on my tangerine, it is not good, however because it is too dry. Do you have suggestions as to what the problem might be? > > Thanks, > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:03:56 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:03:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rose Bush a Shrub? I believe it is, when it isn't a vine[climber or rambler]! But within the rosarian nomenclature, I notice that 'Shrub rose' refers to old fashioned favorites like moss, damask and cabbage roses. Others that I would consider shrubs [small 's'] are Floribundas, Polyanthas, Grandifloras, Hybrid Teas, and Miniatures. But then again, I'm not a rosarian! Hope this helps. Linda Guy Master Gardener prattaf@juno.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know if a rose bush is considered a shrub. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:12:06 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:12:06 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Rooting Nandina Cuttings I've never tried this before, and since you've nothing to lose, why not experiment? First take a cutting from healthy, vigorous plants. If you use softwood located near the terminal end of the branch, take about 4" [ you'll probably need more for support, given how wide some nandina branchess get]. Remove the leaves that will be in contact with rooting media , dip in a stimulant like Rootone and plant. If you use semi-hardwood or hardwood cuttings, the procedure is basically the same. Recommended rooting media is porous and sterile. Vermiculite, perlite or well-washed sand can be used. Or mix equal parts with highgrade potting soil. When watering, completely wet the media and pour off all excess in the tray to avoid salt injury. If a cutting discolors and shows signs of shriveling, it is probably decayed. Linda Guy Master Gardener leer@apex.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I would like to know if I would Have any luck trying to root a cutting from a Nandina plant. I am going to prune mine and wondered if it is a plant that would root from a cutting > Thank you, > Susan Lee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From gmastin@primenet.com Thu May 11 14:55:05 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 07:55:05 -0700 (MST) From: gmastin@primenet.com gmastin@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you "root" geranium cuttings. From brookcarey@earthlink.net Thu May 11 15:03:45 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 08:03:45 -0700 (MST) From: brookcarey@earthlink.net brookcarey@earthlink.net Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I sprouted a lemon seed and it is growing well. When it matures, can a lemon tree from seed make fruit? From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:13:49 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:13:49 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Willcox Water Supplies Your best bet is to contact your local county cooperative extension office which is listed in the blue government pages of the phone book; or check out our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/personnel/countymap.html Linda Guy Master Gardener philosofisher@hotmail.com wrote: > arid_gardener > dear sirs or madams, > i am looking to move out to wilcox, arizona and was wondering how hard it might be to obtain a decent supply of water for living and irrigation from a drilled well. > i am interested in looking at collection and storing options. > thank you for your consideration. > sincerely, > philosofisher > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:17:21 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:17:21 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Eliminating Tree Suckers I am not aware of any such product. Sucker production is usually a function of the trees' growth characteristics. If you have problems with this, you should research future tree plantings well to avoid using similar plant material. In the case of citrus, it is quite necessary to keep pruning the suckers from the rootstock to avoid the tree reverting to the rootstock itself. Linda Guy Master Gardener sbanbury@uswest.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Is there something I can paint or apply to my tree trunks to prevent suckers? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:27:08 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:27:08 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Geranium Stem Cutting Propogation Please refer to another response I just wrote 1 minute ago! It's at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001468.html We have a publication on Plant Propogation that you can order from instructions at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants It's MC - 9 Propogate Plants at Home Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener gmastin@primenet.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do you "root" geranium cuttings. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Thu May 11 16:43:45 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:43:45 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Oleander Problems I'm having a tough time making an id for you, but know that your question has been around for a while so will offer the following suggestions. First check out the timely tips section of our website for April and May. There are many descriptions of commonly experienced plant problems, and perhaps you can answer your question. Check these out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Oleanders are susceptible to sooty canker, bacterial knot or gall and root rot, none of which look the way you've described. Spider mites can cause the yellowing, but there would be evidence of webbing. The best solution I can offer is to take a sample to one of our satellite offices, or the main office itself where our staff and volunteers will make every effort to identify your problem and tell you how to manage it. These addresses are listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener ahammons@casabella-architects.com wrote: > arid_gardener > one of my oleanders has a salty-granule looking > residue on the leaves and then a yellow substance > on the shoot. > i cut it off the gross stuff, afraid it would > spread to the other plants. > it is 1 oleander of 7 planted about a year ago. > the others seem fine so far. > what's up with the gross stuff? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From jdgeram@aol.com Thu May 11 16:47:18 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:47:18 -0700 (MST) From: jdgeram@aol.com jdgeram@aol.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have recently purchased a new house and I am trying to figure out what kind on tree I have in my front yard. Are there any web sites I can go to that have ways of figuring it out? Thanks From gregoire@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu May 11 16:48:52 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 09:48:52 -0700 From: Tod A. Gregoire gregoire@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [AG] Pepper Tree I've got a situation at home I can't figure out. I have a 5 year old California Pepper Tree in my back yard that has been growing leaps and bound every year with an awesome canope. However, I've been noticing leaf shed that started about late winter to early spring. The trunk seems to be thickening because bark continues to peal away. My concern is the lack of leaves and the amount of dead branches that continue to accumulate. The tree looks very unhealthy and is getting close to being bare. I have thought about the possibility of Texas Root Rot but the area I have it in is well drained. Also, I don't over water it. Even so, I can't rule out the rot. Is there an expert out there on this subject? Can you tell me if this sounds like the Rot and if so, is there a compound I can pour into the soil around the tree to kill the fungus? This tree needs help and so do I. Thanks for your input and information. Tod Gregoire Support Systems Analyst, Senior The University of Arizona College of Agriculture (520) 621-7197 From dean_ressler@mk.com Thu May 11 21:19:26 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 14:19:26 -0700 (MST) From: dean_ressler@mk.com dean_ressler@mk.com Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are fruit trees the only trees that bloom with flowers? From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 01:43:51 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:43:51 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Gingko Blooms Have you tried your local cooperative extension office? They would be located in the county phone listings in the blue government section of the phone book. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County, AZ dpmbdriftmier@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a female Ginkgo tree which burst into maturity last year after 18 years as a lovely shade provider beside our deck. Is it possible to prevent this tree from blooming? It is quite tall but if we could spray it or do anything to deter the polination we would be pleased. We are in SE Wisconsin. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 01:52:27 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:52:27 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Artichokes My artichokes were producing in early March, have already gone to the marvelous blue-violet flower stage and are now drying out. So I wonder why yours have not. [I'm sure you realize that the part of the artichoke that is eaten is the flower bud.] Since this is essentially a thistle that dies back at this time of year, I usually leave mine in the ground through the summer and wait until early winter when the foliage begins to return. At that time I split the plants, giving them away because I have more than enough for a family of three and friends from two plants. Once producing, eight artichoke plants would stock your neighborhood and use an overwhelming amount of garden space! Are you sure you are growing artichokes? As to water, mine thrive even on neglect, as do other medicinal thistles I grow. As long as the soil is damp and the plants are happy, they get about the same amount of water as my Mediterranean herbs that hate to have their feet wet [rosemary, lavender, oregano, etc.] which is to say, not alot. Linda Guy Master Gardener chubbymomma@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > I have four great looking, and not yet fruit bearing artichoke plants that I would like to separate and make, say about 8 plants. > > an I separate them? > Also I live in Phoenix and I water them 1 time per week. Is that suffiient? > > Thanks!!! gail blade > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 01:57:56 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 18:57:56 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Propagating Bougainvillea A good discussion of stem cuttings is included in our publication MC-9 http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants You can order it or check the reference section of your local library (call code 635). I wrote several similar answers today. See one at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001468.html Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener pattyroo@ctaz.com wrote: > arid_gardener > Hello, > > I have a question: > > Can you give me information on propagating my bougainvillea? > > Thank you, > > Patty > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:07:35 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:35 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Pearl Scale Your problem sounds suspiciously like pearl scale. I already answered a similar question today, and that answer is available in our archives at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/001459.html Good luck. It's a tough problem. Linda Guy Master Gardener journies@worldnet.att.net wrote: > arid_gardener > I have a lawn that consists of Bermuda and Rye. I have noticed something creeping in from the outer edges in spots which are not about a foot wide. They are flat (like bald) brown and dry. Can you suggest what it might be, and advise as to how I might get rid of it? I have fertalized recently, and I water for 15 minute periods, every other day. This is not happening under a tree, and it is not caused by dogs. Should I be applying Bermuda seed at this time? > > P.S. I just read my "sent" message, and at the bottom, it said "Sincerely, Lucy Bradley". Don't know who she is. My name is Joan Enright. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:07:50 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:50 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Honeysuckle Dying One of my colleagues refers to your problem as 'male dog disease'. You've diagnosed your problem, now the issue is keeping the dogs off the plant. A little red pepper spray [I use medicinal strength from the health food store] might have them look elsewhere! Linda Guy Master Gardener rjezeski@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > we have three large honeysuckles planted at the end of our driveway. two are doing just great but the third one is dying very fast. i believe dogs are using it as a place to urinate on. > any suggestion. the plants are about 30 inches tall,fun sun during the day > > thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:07:58 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:07:58 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Impact of Music on Plants This is not the type of question we normally answer for the home gardener, so we don't have any material to refer you to. Have you had any luck with web searches? Linda Guy Master Gardener rblack@fix.net wrote: > arid_gardener > Does music have any effect on how/how well plants grow? Do you have any study material on this? I am doing a science project. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:11:04 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:11:04 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Edging Bermuda Lawns This is what bermuda does naturally. You can raise the height of the flower bed edging, pull the bermuda out manually or use some herbicide product as it creeps over. The latter could cause a bit of bare patches at the perimeter, in both the lawn and the flower bed, but you need to measure the minor cosmetic impact against your ability to maintain a physical intervention practice. Linda Guy Master Gardener bertfransugar@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > How do I keep bermuda grass from creeping over into adjacent flower beds? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:15:32 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:15:32 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Annual Flowers for East Exposure. I agree with the coreopsis recommendation. For others, check out our flower publication and charts at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener popart3@aol.com wrote: > arid_gardener > We have a narrow area alongside an east-facing > front walkway in which we have geraniums presently > growing. We want to replace the geraniums with > a flowering, relatively low-growing plant. We > were told at our local nursery that Coreopsis might > be an appropriate plant to use. The area gets > slightly more than half-day sun during the summer. > Do you think Coreopsis would be a good choice? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > Archives - From laguy2@primenet.com Fri May 12 02:18:34 2000 Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 19:18:34 -0700 From: Linda A. Guy laguy2@primenet.com Subject: [AG] Saguaro question --------------BDBA219DCCFFEA47A7031619 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Debbie, Most of us volunteers on this server have specialties other than cactus and succulents. Could you call the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, available M-F 10 to 11:30 am at 480-941-1225? They are experts in this area. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Debbie (by way of Lucy Bradley )" wrote: > Hi: > I just now found your address on the internet site. Have a question: > We live in Tonto Basin, just north of Roosevelt Lake, and have a > 18'-20' saguaro w/ 5 arms. About 2 years ago, it started getting > infested with termites. I went down the Yellow Pages, calling people > who specialize in Saguaros. Found someone who said just spray it down > really well with water..no bleach, no dish soap; j