From LBradley@sisna.com Wed Nov 1 03:02:02 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 20:02:02 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Blood Orange Dropping Fruit Early The most common cause of fruit drop this late in the year is over fertilization which is often accompanied by leaf drop. Have you fertilized recently? The Arizona Master Gardener Manual which is on line offers some other possibilities. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/treefruits.html Florida's Commercial Citrus Management Handbook is on the web http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MENU_CHA as it their Home Citrus Handbook http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MENU_XC Good Luck! Lucy Bradley >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:10:30 -0700 >From: MUSIKEY@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) >Subject: Blood Orange Dropping Fruit Early > >Is there a website answering questions about citrus trees? My mature blood >orange is dropping its crop early. Lucy K. Bradley From kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov Fri Nov 3 16:36:33 2000 Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 09:36:33 -0700 (MST) From: kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you recommend a good tree surgeon? I live in south Scottsdale. Thank you. From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Nov 3 20:06:35 2000 Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:06:35 -0700 (MST) From: phg@citieswestpub.com phg@citieswestpub.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How well does bamboo grow in the Valley, and which types would you recommend? Which types would you avoid? Are there any good example of it that I could look at? From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Nov 3 20:41:01 2000 Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:41:01 -0700 (MST) From: phg@citieswestpub.com phg@citieswestpub.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page One of my co-workers is having problems with her petunias. They seem to be shriveling up and they're all sticky. They're planted in the ground and usually do well in this spot. Her mom is having the same problem (they both bought their plants at the same location). Any ideas? From umiller@azdps.com Fri Nov 3 23:47:47 2000 Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 16:47:47 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi - I looked it up in my Plants for Dry Climates book and it says that some kinds do well in our area. I was particularly interested in finding the answer to your question because a friend of mine me once that, while living in an apartment complex in Mesa, he got permission from the landlord to plant some bamboo near his unit. My friend said that the plant grew like crazy, became a nuisance, and he had to chop it all down. So I had a feeling that bamboo likes it here. Anyway, the book says: Bambusa glaucescens "Alphonse Karr" is a medium-sized bamboo of the clumping variety, 10-15 feet tall, can grow to 30 feet tall. Sensitive to cold (15 degrees is lowest temp limit). Plant in spring, part shade to full sun, needs moderate to ample water Bambusa glaucescens riviereorum "Chinese Goddess Bamboo" is a dwarf growing 4-6 feet tall. Needs part shade and shelter from hot dry winds, moderate to ample water, sensitive to cold (15 degrees) Bambusa Oldhamii "Oldham Bamboo" is tall, fast growing 15-25 feet and sometimes 40 feet. Partial shade to full sun. Foliage damaged at 20 degrees. Moderate to ample water. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of phg@citieswestpub.com Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 1:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How well does bamboo grow in the Valley, and which types would you recommend? Which types would you avoid? Are there any good example of it that I could look at? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ej10817@goodnet.com Sat Nov 4 12:49:28 2000 Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2000 04:49:28 -0800 From: Pat ej10817@goodnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page At 04:47 PM 11/3/00 -0700, you wrote: >Hi - I looked it up in my Plants for Dry Climates book and it says that some >kinds do well in our area. > >I was particularly interested in finding the answer to your question because >a friend of mine me once that, while living in an apartment complex in Mesa, >he got permission from the landlord to plant some bamboo near his unit. My >friend said that the plant grew like crazy, became a nuisance, and he had to >chop it all down. So I had a feeling that bamboo likes it here. > >Anyway, the book says: > >Bambusa glaucescens "Alphonse Karr" is a medium-sized bamboo of the clumping >variety, 10-15 feet tall, can grow to 30 feet tall. Sensitive to cold (15 >degrees is lowest temp limit). Plant in spring, part shade to full sun, >needs moderate to ample water > >Bambusa glaucescens riviereorum "Chinese Goddess Bamboo" is a dwarf growing >4-6 feet tall. Needs part shade and shelter from hot dry winds, moderate to >ample water, sensitive to cold (15 degrees) > >Bambusa Oldhamii "Oldham Bamboo" is tall, fast growing 15-25 feet and >sometimes 40 feet. Partial shade to full sun. Foliage damaged at 20 >degrees. Moderate to ample water. > >Ursula Miller Yes, there are two kinds of bamboo, the clumping type and the running type. The running type is the kind that is invasive as it will take over and is hard to get rid of. Be sure you know which type you are getting. There are many varieties of both kinds, ranging from pot plants to huge forests. I have a small variety in a pot on my patio. As with any plants that will attain good size, it is important to choose one that will suit it's location once it reaches maturity and not be a nuisance or require extra care. Not that I am an expert but I love to garden and have learned from experience. Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening For great service and prices, please visit this site for all your travel needs: http://www.kolb.globaltravel.com From jmulcahy@emrcorp.net Sun Nov 5 17:55:55 2000 Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2000 10:55:55 -0700 (MST) From: jmulcahy@emrcorp.net jmulcahy@emrcorp.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are looking for a standard nectarine to grow in the Phoenix area. We would prefer a white fleshed nectarine. Can you recommend a variety. If so, what nurseries on the west side would sell such? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 5 19:19:39 2000 Date: Sun, 5 Nov 2000 14:19:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Nectarines Sorry, but Nectarines are not recommended for growth in Maricopa County because of the chilling hours required and the lack of a suitable control of thrips. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Nov 6 18:09:46 2000 Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 11:09:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Surgeon We cannot name specific individuals, but I can refer you to the ISA website which gives you guidance on locating an arborist. Linda Guy Master Gardener kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov wrote: > Can you recommend a good tree surgeon? I live in south Scottsdale. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Nov 6 18:12:54 2000 Date: Mon, 06 Nov 2000 11:12:54 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] "Honeydew" on Petunias I have had problems with late season whiteflies this year, as have several other MG colleagues. The sticky substances you refer to is the residual substance from plant sucking pests such as these or aphids. Our page discussing this pest and treatment is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm They should be gone with the cool temps arriving. Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener phg@citieswestpub.com wrote: > One of my co-workers is having problems with her petunias. They seem to be shriveling up and they're all sticky. They're planted in the ground and usually do well in this spot. Her mom is having the same problem (they both bought their plants at the same location). Any ideas? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From neghlg@aol.com Wed Nov 8 18:12:20 2000 Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 11:12:20 -0700 (MST) From: neghlg@aol.com neghlg@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our prickly pear cactus is getting white blotches. I assume it is a fungus. What should I do to get rid of it? From ram6260@yahoo.com Wed Nov 8 20:46:53 2000 Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 13:46:53 -0700 (MST) From: ram6260@yahoo.com ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am uncertain as to how to best prune my rose vines. I am trying to get them extended as far as possible across my back patio(faces north west) . They seem to want to put out numerous new shoots close to the pillars where they are planted but I want them to grow longer shoots so that they will join up on the front of the patio overhang. SHould I prune the shoots coming off the proximal vine to encourage greater length? Or should I tie the new shoots back parralel to the main vine which would give more bulk to the plant. ANd when is best to do this in the spring? I live near Shea and Hayden, Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Nov 8 22:11:16 2000 Date: Wed, 8 Nov 2000 17:11:16 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning a climbing rose If your rose is a continuous blooming rose then it should be pruned in January if you live in the low desert. Remove any dead or dying canes and remove one or more of the oldest canes. Do not prune the ends of the canes untill they reach the length that you desire. Prune only the laterals leaving three or four buds on each lateral. Tie the canes horizontally and the laterals will then grow vertically. If the rose has only one blooming period then you should wait until after the bloom period to prune. Why not join us at the Mesa East Valley Rose show on Nov. 18, 2000 at Mesa Community College Student Center, Southern and Dobson, Mesa and open to the public from 1.00 to 4.00 PM. While there you can enjoy the over 3000 roses in the MCC rose garden. Consulting Rosarians will be on hand to answer questions Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From carmlita@aol.com Fri Nov 10 17:43:18 2000 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 10:43:18 -0700 (MST) From: carmlita@aol.com carmlita@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We normally have a pre-emergent herbicide applied to our yard. However, we have learned that our senior citizen dog has liver problems and are concerned about exposure to the chemicals. Is there a non-toxic treatment that can be used for weeds that are appearing now and as a pre-emergent? Thanks very much. From mp@gknet.com Fri Nov 10 18:30:28 2000 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 11:30:28 -0700 (MST) From: mp@gknet.com mp@gknet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you prune a banana palm? There is new growth coming out of the top but the bottom and side leaves are all dried and brown. It is very tall and I want to fill out the bottom. If I cut it straight across at the bottom, will new growth appear or will I kill the plant if I do that. If I trim off all the dry, dead leaves, it will appear top-heavy. Any suggestions? From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Nov 10 23:08:31 2000 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 16:08:31 -0700 (MST) From: phg@citieswestpub.com phg@citieswestpub.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My bedroom windows in my new house face west. I would like to plant shrubs along the wall that will offer shade in summer, but that can be cut back in winter to allow the sun in. Are there any good fast-growing, flowering shrubs you would recommend? From MTCactiPi@aol.com Sat Nov 11 04:51:24 2000 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 21:51:24 -0700 (MST) From: MTCactiPi@aol.com MTCactiPi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fertilizer would you reccomend for a fruitless olive tree. Also, I have the tree on a drip irrigation system with three two gallon per hour emmiters. How often should I water my tree to optimize growth. The tree was planted in the summer of 99 and is about 8'tall. I live in Tucson. Thank you for you assistance. From MTCactiPi@aol.com Sat Nov 11 04:56:59 2000 Date: Fri, 10 Nov 2000 21:56:59 -0700 (MST) From: MTCactiPi@aol.com MTCactiPi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a red grapefruit tree planted in my yard in Tucson. It was planted in the summer of 99'. I have 8 two gallon an hour emmiters around the tree in the tree's basin. The tree basin is about 7 feet in diameter. The tree itself is roughly 6'tall and 4' wide. I water about twice a week in the summer and once every week to two weeks in the winter. My question, is my watering schedule approiate? Some of the leaves on the tree are light green, yellow and a couple are even whitish. I fertilized as directed in Feb, May and August. Iron was also added during the summer. What can I do to darken up the leaves and optimize growth? Thanks for any assistance. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Nov 11 07:02:57 2000 Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 00:02:57 -0700 From: Olin D. Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We use Queen's Wreath (AKA Coral Vine). You would need to provide strings or wires for it to grown on. We cut it off at ground level every year on or before Thanksgiving Day. When it grows back the following year, one plant will cover a 6 foot wide area and will grow up to 8 - 10 feet. We only water it about once a month so it probably would grow bigger if watered more. Has pretty pink blossoms. We have had a Costa humming bird nest it one of the plants the past 2 years. Our 4 plants were planted about 1984. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > My bedroom windows in my new house face west. I would like to plant shrubs along the wall that will offer shade in summer, but that can be cut back in winter to allow the sun in. Are there any good fast-growing, flowering shrubs you would recommend? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From umiller@azdps.com Sat Nov 11 15:58:49 2000 Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 08:58:49 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Tree Yellow Leaves Hi - I'd be curious to see what the specialists say about this because I have a grapefruit tree the same size and almost the same age. I also ran into some yellow and light green leaves late in the summer this year - maybe this was because of the very long, dry, hot summer we had. I gave the tree more water and more nitrogen. I'm not sure that that the nitrogen the trick, but my leaves are all nice and green now. Nitrogen is very important for green leaves. It is the first number on the numbering scheme on fertilizer bags and it's confusing because different citrus fertilizers give different amounts. According to an article in the Arizona Republic, a tree needs 1/4 pound of nitrogen for every year in the ground after the first planting year. This should be spread out over three feedings, like you're doing. This maxes out after 6 years at 1 1/2 pounds. To figure out how much nitrogen this is, the article says: Dividing the first number from the bag into 100 tells how much will equal 1 pound of actual nitrogen. I didn't go through the mathematical gymnastics myself. I just went out and bought a fertilizer that had the most amount of nitrogen in it and fed that to the tree with lots of water. New growth was bright green and the old yellow ones fell off. Anyway, good luck and I hope this helps. Ursula Miller, Phoenix -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of MTCactiPi@aol.com Sent: Friday, November 10, 2000 9:57 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a red grapefruit tree planted in my yard in Tucson. It was planted in the summer of 99'. I have 8 two gallon an hour emmiters around the tree in the tree's basin. The tree basin is about 7 feet in diameter. The tree itself is roughly 6'tall and 4' wide. I water about twice a week in the summer and once every week to two weeks in the winter. My question, is my watering schedule approiate? Some of the leaves on the tree are light green, yellow and a couple are even whitish. I fertilized as directed in Feb, May and August. Iron was also added during the summer. What can I do to darken up the leaves and optimize growth? Thanks for any assistance. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Nov 11 21:59:18 2000 Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 16:59:18 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Olive tree care Most trees grown in our desert soil will be happy with a fertilizer containing nitrogen only such as amonium sulfate, however if you happen to have an all purpose fertilizer, that will work fine also. As for irrigation, deep watering once every week to ten days in the summer should be adequate unless you have an extended period where the high temps are over 110 degrees. Deep watering means the water must penetrate in excess of two feet deep. As your tree grows you should add more drippers and extend them so they are positioned at the drip line. The same irigation recommendations would also apply to your grapefruit tree. I suspect that the yellow leaves would indicate that the tree is being over watered. U. of A. Extension Fact Sheet MC 17 indicates that a four foot diameter grapefruit tree in mid summer would require 1.8 gallons of water per day. This amount increases as the tree grows. A six foot diameter tree would require 4.1 gallons per day. Be sure to not over fertilize, a one year old grapefruit should have only two to four tablespoons of fertilizer three times a year. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Sun Nov 12 03:38:23 2000 Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 20:38:23 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit - When Do They Appear? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C04C1F.5622EB00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When do grapefruits come out on citrus trees here in Phoenix? I have a grapefruit tree and last year we had lots and lots of grapefruits. I thought that this was in February. Now, this year, we've already had some (not many) grapefruits (large and green but ripe and tasty anyway). But I don't remember having any of those great fragrant flowers this year at all. So I'm confused. Are the ones we have now this year's crop and that's it for the winter? Or are we going to get more in 3-4 months? When do the flowers come out? I've tried to find the answer in books, but they just say that grapefruits can come at varying times of year and there's nothing specific. Thanks in advance for any help on this. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C04C1F.5622EB00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
When do grapefruits = come out on=20 citrus trees here in Phoenix?  I have a grapefruit tree and last = year we=20 had lots and lots of grapefruits.  I thought that this was in=20 February.  Now, this year, we've already had some (not many) = grapefruits=20 (large and green but ripe and tasty anyway).  But I don't remember = having=20 any of those great fragrant flowers this year at all.  =
 
So I'm = confused.  Are the=20 ones we have now this year's crop and that's it for the winter?  Or = are we=20 going to get more in 3-4 months?  When do the flowers come = out?  I've=20 tried to find the answer in books, but they just say that grapefruits = can come=20 at varying times of year and there's nothing specific. =20
 
Thanks in advance = for any help=20 on this. 
 
Ursula=20 Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C04C1F.5622EB00-- From dirk_heintze@agilent.com Sun Nov 12 16:29:31 2000 Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 09:29:31 -0700 (MST) From: dirk_heintze@agilent.com dirk_heintze@agilent.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I live in Edinburgh, Scotland, and I have a little Oleander bush. I have had this for 4 years - and to date it has never flowered! It is also very skinny - with only 2 main branches. It sits on the window seal of my flat which is West facing. I am now wondering what I could do to ensure that come next spring it does flower (for the 1st time). Should I consider pruning it right back - and giving it another chance? If so how should I cut it down. I appreciate any help/advise on this matter. Thanks you. PS: please reply to my email. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 12 19:45:40 2000 Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 14:45:40 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Oleander not blooming Oleanders require full sun to look their best. In partial shade, which is what you have in a west window, they have few flowers and become leggy. If you move to Arizona you can have beautiful oleanders growing outside. Good luck. Rod Mckusick Master Gardener From rnan3815@aol.com Sun Nov 12 21:59:35 2000 Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 14:59:35 -0700 (MST) From: rnan3815@aol.com rnan3815@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have 1 each of orange grapefruit and lemon trees. planted in may this year. all are growing in full sun. problem each have several new branches that have grown several feet beyond the normal tree growth . is this normal? should they be pruned? if so how?. one other question- they have new leaf growth some have begun to curl. is this normal? if not what should be done. the orange tree has 4-6 oranges on tree. the lemon has one. grapefruit none. we live in surprise (sun city grand at bell and grand) THANKS. RNAN3815@AOL.COM From umiller@azdps.com Sun Nov 12 23:05:42 2000 Date: Sun, 12 Nov 2000 16:05:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Growth and Curl My book on pruning citrus says that young trees in the first 3-4 years often develop strong vertical shoots that create off-balanced forms. They can be cut back to maintain the shape of the tree, though this should be done in the spring. The worst time is summer. Maybe someone else knows if it's OK to prune now. The leaf curl could be thrips, which are no big deal except that they make the leaves curl and sometimes drop off. I usually control them by giving the tree's leaves strong blasts of water from the hose. I hope this helps. Ursula (Not a Master Gardener) -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rnan3815@aol.com Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2000 3:00 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have 1 each of orange grapefruit and lemon trees. planted in may this year. all are growing in full sun. problem each have several new branches that have grown several feet beyond the normal tree growth . is this normal? should they be pruned? if so how?. one other question- they have new leaf growth some have begun to curl. is this normal? if not what should be done. the orange tree has 4-6 oranges on tree. the lemon has one. grapefruit none. we live in surprise (sun city grand at bell and grand) THANKS. RNAN3815@AOL.COM _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Mon Nov 13 14:53:48 2000 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 07:53:48 -0700 From: Hank Beaulieu hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine Tree In one of our Phoenix city parks (Roadrunner) there is a pine tree that we would like to purchase and plant in our back yard. Unfortunately we don't know what kind it is. Possibly you can help identify it. It is about 12' to 15' tall. The tree is dense. The branches are no longer than 4' to 5' long. The branches go all the way to the bottom of the trunk. The needles are a medium green about 3" to 5" long. Most of the cones grow about half way up a branch in pairs. The branches and needles point upwards. Thanks for any help you can provide. Hank Beaulieu From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Nov 13 21:57:30 2000 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 16:57:30 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit - When Do They Appear? Hi Ursula, The grapefruit that are on your tree now are all that you will get on the tree for this year. Grapefruit will flower in the spring followed by fruit set. It is normal for the tree to drop part of the fruit set. It is not uncommon for citrus to have alternate good and light fruit crops. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From MTCactiPi@aol.com Tue Nov 14 03:52:09 2000 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 20:52:09 -0700 (MST) From: MTCactiPi@aol.com MTCactiPi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Tucson and recently got i nthe mail some date seeds that I ordered. My question is, how should I go about germinating the seeds. I need help with the planting medium, watering and depth. Also, how fast does the edible date (Phoenix dactylifera) grow? Any help would be great! Chow From ahayes1915@aol.com Tue Nov 14 04:47:04 2000 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 21:47:04 -0700 (MST) From: ahayes1915@aol.com ahayes1915@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a arborvitae and this summer the heat really affected it. It has alot of dead stuff on it. What I would like to know should I cut off all the dead wood. It kinda looks like it is starting to come back with green on some of the branches. Would it be a good time to fertilze it. And what kind of fertilzer would be the best. Thank you. From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Nov 14 05:34:15 2000 Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2000 22:34:15 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palms from Seed Only female trees yield dates and they seldom look like the parent which is the reason the trees for date production are always propagated from offshoots from a known parent. Male trees produce the pollen. To get a good date set you will need to pollinate artificially. You have a 50-50 chance of getting males and females but it will take at least 5 years and possibly up to 10 years, depending on the variety, before you will know which gender(s) you have. There are more than a half-dozen varieties of the genus Phoenix dactylifera grown for date production. The trees are easy to grow from seed. We have several volunteers that started in outdoor planter beds from discarded pits so they should be easy to germinate. I would suggest germinating in potting soil at a depth of 3 - 4 times the width of the pit with good soil contact on all sides. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. For specific growing recommendations, try the Pima County Cooperative Extension in Tucson at 520-626-5161. There are out-of-print Pubs. Bulletin A-22 from 1971 and No. 8330 from 1983 that might be available for viewing at their office at 4210 N. Campbell in ucson. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I live in Tucson and recently got i nthe mail some date seeds that I ordered. My question is, how should I go about germinating the seeds. I need help with the planting medium, watering and depth. Also, how fast does the edible date (Phoenix dactylifera) grow? Any help would be great! Chow From SLOTJUNKee@aol.com Tue Nov 14 23:09:05 2000 Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 16:09:05 -0700 (MST) From: SLOTJUNKee@aol.com SLOTJUNKee@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have overseeded my bermuda lawn with perrenial ryegrass. I have watered it 2x a day for 1 week and so far it has not germinated. Do I need to water it more often? If so , how much more? Also the temps here in east Mesa have gotten down to 38 degrees on a couple of nights. Could this be the problem?{did I overseed too late?} Thank you, Cathy From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Nov 15 00:29:21 2000 Date: Tue, 14 Nov 2000 19:29:21 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Rye grass seed not sprouting Kathy, If you just planted one week ago, you didn't plant too late according to the calendar, however the weather man hasn't cooperated this season. Our temps have been running 10 to 15 degrees below normal which has brought the soil temperature below the temperature at which rye grass seed will sprout. I checked the soil temp this morning and found it to be in the low 50s in Mesa which is about 10 degrees below the critical point for the rye to sprout. If we have a warm spell soon it might help us but I wouldn't count on it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com Wed Nov 15 16:36:57 2000 Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 09:36:57 -0700 (MST) From: jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mountain laurel that has produced a good quantity of seed pods. I opened several of the pods and now have several seeds that I'd like to try to germinate. I've not had success in the past and would like to know if you have any suggestions for a procedure that might work. Thank you. From SLOTJUNKee1950@aol.com Wed Nov 15 22:20:31 2000 Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 15:20:31 -0700 (MST) From: SLOTJUNKee1950@aol.com SLOTJUNKee1950@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted perrenial rye {overseeded} about 10 days ago, I am watering 2x a day for 3 minutes, and so far there has been no germination. Do I need to water more? Did I wait to long to plant { It has been quite cold at night here in Mesa} Did I waste my time and Money? HELP! Thank you, Cathy From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 01:44:23 2000 Date: Wed, 15 Nov 2000 18:44:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Simulating Winter's Chill This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A9274A2738AF11958503042E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here's an interesting reply to my rhubarb query. Wonder if any of you have tried something like this before? Linda --------------A9274A2738AF11958503042E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 52220 invoked by uid 0); 12 Nov 2000 07:46:16 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (204.147.80.23) by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 12 Nov 2000 07:46:16 -0000 Received: (qmail 44436 invoked from network); 12 Nov 2000 07:46:15 -0000 Received: from law2-f70.hotmail.com (HELO hotmail.com) (216.32.181.70) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 12 Nov 2000 07:46:15 -0000 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Sat, 11 Nov 2000 23:45:50 -0800 Received: from 12.72.207.97 by lw2fd.hotmail.msn.com with HTTP; Sun, 12 Nov 2000 07:45:49 GMT Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2000 23:45:49 PST Message-ID: From: "Wayne Craft" To: lindaguy@uswest.net X-Originating-IP: [12.72.207.97] Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Rhubarb anyone? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed X-OriginalArrivalTime: 12 Nov 2000 07:45:50.0245 (UTC) FILETIME=[939B2D50:01C04C7C] X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, my computer was down over a month, lost most of my e-,mail but just got back on and read your note on pie cooking and questions about growing rhubarb. Now I doe't claim to know much about growing in your climate but if one is really really hungry for rhubarb, she might try my method I use to grow peonies in Calif. As you know they need a good chill. I use the plastic jello rings you get when you buy ready made jello at the grocery (it's the only reason I will buy it). I fill the ring with water, put it in my freezer and every night for 6 weeks in the winter I take it out of the freezer put it on the peony stem or site in the garden, refill the plastic ring with water and refreeze for the next eve. Of course you can just dump your ice tray out every night also but since the peony leaves a small stem or I mark the site, the ring doesn't slide away like dumping ice cubes can. Needless to say you really have to weant to succeed to do this but it does work and she could put the ice ring on morning and evening. I was also interested in you mentioning her baking many pies during threshing. My grandparents were menonite farmers and I have wonderful memories of wheat threshing season. The menonites would all get together at one farm and work from dawn to sundown and the farmers wife and a couple of friends were put on a huge dinner for the workers. It was a busy and exciting time. AS soon as that farm was finished they entire community moved on to help the next one and so on until everyone's crops were done. I was wondering if she had a similar experiece anyuuway enjoyed being reminded of those wonderful memories. Carolyn >From: Linda Guy >To: Arid gardener server >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rhubarb anyone? >Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 15:10:45 -0700 > >I have been fueling a resurrected passion for cooking by volunteering at >culinary classes at a well-known local kitchen gadgets store. [hint: >This Saturday I spent three hours at the sink pictured behind chef Susan >Schopp in last Wednesday's cooking section feature!] > >This week's class on pies was presented by the store's owner and as we >exchanged stories about our best pies over the years, we were pleasantly >surprised to learn that our mutual favorite was plain, unadulterated >rhubarb [plenty of sugar, of course]. > >This Manitoba farm-girl [the owner, not me] would dearly love to grow a >stand of rhubarb and beseeched me to contact all of you in an effort to >secure any tricks at all to aid in this effort. Container growing is an >option. I told her that I'd researched it once upon a time some years >ago and had decided that it wasn't quite but perhaps close to hopeless, >since in 'normal' circumstances [like where we each grew up] there was >substantial winter chilling and longer cool springs. Also that I >suspected that any chance would be augmented by planting now and >treating this as an annual. [I'd also been told something similar about >artichokes, and have NO problem growing these however!] > >She' been baking pies since age 8 and used to make as many as a dozen >daily during threshing season. She makes a mean pie and she means >business! Any hints, success stories, things to avoid, would be >appreciated. > >Linda > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. --------------A9274A2738AF11958503042E-- From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Nov 16 11:59:30 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 06:59:30 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Rhubarb Linda, I had heard of the ice thing being done to lilacs to try and get them to bloom. O think the problem with rhubarb is trying to get it to survive the summer, which that wouldn't help. One woman that tried rhubarb said she planted it in the fall and whatever grew they would eat the next spring - then during the summer the rhubarb died (this was a good many years ago, so I hope I remember correctly). Val From Bat4@msn.com Thu Nov 16 12:26:10 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 05:26:10 -0700 (MST) From: Bat4@msn.com Bat4@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My house faces East and West. During this time of the year a lot of they areas I would like to plant flowers has early morning sun but mostly shade. Are there any flowers that do well with mostly shade and what are they? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Thu Nov 16 16:56:09 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 08:56:09 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The seed you planted is a slower growing rye. Together with our cooler temps and shorter daylight hours will attribute to slower germination. Yes, you should be watering 4-5 times a day but only for 4-5 minutes each time till you see the seed growing the cut back on the number of times you water and increase the length of time to maintain the same total minutes a day. --- SLOTJUNKee1950@aol.com wrote: > I planted perrenial rye {overseeded} about 10 days > ago, I am watering 2x a day for 3 minutes, and so > far there has been no germination. Do I need to > water more? Did I wait to long to plant { It has > been quite cold at night here in Mesa} Did I waste > my time and Money? HELP! > Thank you, > Cathy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/ From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Thu Nov 16 16:58:57 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 08:58:57 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Scarify the seeds. They have a hard shell and doing so will allow moisture to germinate them --- jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com wrote: > I have a mountain laurel that has produced a good > quantity of seed pods. I opened several of the pods > and now have several seeds that I'd like to try to > germinate. I've not had success in the past and > would like to know if you have any suggestions for a > procedure that might work. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Calendar - Get organized for the holidays! http://calendar.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:21:14 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:21:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Willow Acacia and Ground Cover Your ground cover, myoporum, was all the rage half a dozen years or so ago. I never liked its woody growth after a few years; seems like a lot of pruning was required to keep the lush effect it has when a bit more juvenile. Anyway, you are right on target that it is doing poorly due to the shade....myoporum likes full sun. Although not absolutely necessary, it enjoys a bit of midsummer afternoon protection. If you are getting alot of suckers, this can be the tree's response to overly vigorous pruning practices. I'm in the tail end of an advanced tree training class where I heard it in lecture, as well as reading it in texts. In one of our books, the willow acacia is specifically mentioned as having this susceptibility. So avoid heavy pruning to keep the suckers and water sprouts under control. This book also suggests the month of May as the best time to prune. Turf needs sun to thrive, but some winter varieties will remain through most of the summer under shade. The following is extracted from another response provided a year ago by a fellow MG who is also a turf agronomist: "Option #2 would be to plant some "Turf Tall Fescue" seed this fall and >winter. This is a cool climate turfgrass species that is very shade >tolerant - available from seed at most local garden centers and nurseries >under many different brand names and labels. This grass species will >remain green year round in our climate, but stresses severely during the hot >summers and needs far more water than bermuda does. However, under trees, >the temperature is generally about 20 degrees coller, so the Tall Fescue >will usually do well and survive the summers in shaded conditions. The >seed needs to be planted NOW in order to get the grass plants root system's >developed well enough before next summer's heat stress returns. PLANT 6 to >8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet in a well prepared seed bed according >to the label instructions and instructions sheets from your grass seed >supplier. DO NOT plant extra seed!!!! More is definitely NOT better, as >the seedlings will be too crowded to develop a good root system and will >succumb to heat and disease next summer. > >Option #3 is to plant St. Augustine or Zoysia grass - Both are warm >climate gras speices with good shade tolerance. St. Augustine from sod >planted next summer - Zoysia from seed or sod planted next summer. Both >of these go dormant in winter like the bermudas and can be overseeded with >ryegrass for winter green turf - although they are not as tolerant of >overseeding practices as the bermudas are. There is also a pretty good discussion of shade options in one of the Horticulture Communicators published in 1999, and it is available online on our website. I'd have provided a hyperlink, but our server is down right now, and I can't get into the website to find the specific edition for you. I do not recommend rototilling around your tree. This is a woefully tardy to your original post. We are usually more timely; I apologize for our delay. Linda Guy Master Gardener theazhalls@juno.com wrote: > Sorry for the long post. I have a willow acacia about 25 ft high. I have myoporum as a ground cover but it's not doing well, I assume because of the shade. The acacia is heaving the ground up to eight inches around the trunk, and shoots runners as far out as twice the crown diameter, which I'm afraid will eventually choke my nearby palo brea. > > It's hard to clean the myoporum without damaging it. I'd like to plant a shade tolerant grass underneath the tree. My thinking is I can runover the leaf drop and the runners with the lawn mower. Is there a suitable grass for this? Also, can I knock down or rototill some of the heaved dirt and root without the tree falling over? > > I'm open to alternative suggestions. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:30:38 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:30:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis on Grapefruit I'm not sure if your post was ever answered, but this question has arisen more than a few times in the last month. Grapefruit is susceptible to a pathogen called Rio Grande gummosis for which there is no fungicidal treatment, just surgery of the impacted areas. An extract of a response last month from one of our staff in pathology follows: "Symptoms of gumming and scaly bark on grapefruit could be caused by one of three diseases. 1). One possibility is Rio Grande gummosis, so named because the disease was first described on grapefruit in Texas near the Rio Grande River. This disease is often associated with broken or dead branches, through which a complex of fungi gain entrance into the tree and induce the formation of gum pockets. 2). Psorosis is a complex of virus-like diseases. Symptoms include bark lesions, which can be numerous and expand in size, with sloughing of large strips of bark. Bark scaling with some gumming is common. Psorosis bark lesions differ from those of Rio Grande gummosis in that Rio Grande gummosis lesions exude more gum and no extensive callus is formed under the bark that is sloughed. 3). Hendersonula branch wilt. This is a fungal disease that invades damaged bark tissue and causes branches to wilt and die. The diagnostic feature of this disease is that the very outermost layer of bark peels from infected branches to expose black masses of spores of the pathogen covering the infected area. Gumming can appear on branches as this disease develops. Treatment for each of the diseases is the same. Remove the infected part of the tree if possible. If the infected area is on a part of the tree that cannot be cut away without removing the entire tree, then the owner has to decide on nursing the infected tree along or taking the tree out and replanting." I hope this helps you. Linda Guy Master Gardener petermarshall@uswest.net wrote: > Help! I have 2 Grapefruit trees that appear > to be being ravaged by some disease of some > sort. Half of each tree is now completely > brown and seemingly dead. It started out > limb by limb. The bark is peeling away on > all the affected limbs and dripping sap. > Do you have any ideas on what's ailing my > trees and how to cure the problem. If it > is a parasite or pest problem, are there > any ways to cure the problem without the > use of pesticides? I would really > appreciate your help. Thanks. > Peter > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:32:17 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:32:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you did not receive a response, and would still like to send us a picture to help you identify this plant, do so at arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu Linda Guy Master Gardener Mama_Cupani@juno.com wrote: > I have a plant growing in my vegetable garden > that I am hoping you can help me identify. > I really like it and would like to transplant > it, but I need an idea of how big it's going > to get. I'm pretty sure it's not a vegetable! > The plant is about 2 years old now, and about > 2 feet tall. Rather sprawling with small > thorns and a woody base. It has deep, > solid green, serrated, heart-shaped leaves. > It kind of reminds me of a bouganvilla. > It has never bloomed. > I have taken a couple of pictures that I > could send if you would supply me an e-mail > address (to send attachments). > I would really appreciate any help you can > give me. > Thank you, > Shirley Cupani > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:35:30 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:35:30 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Anaheim Chiles This is a fairly common chile for us to grow, although not at this time of year unless you provide a very sunny, warm location and frost cloth in the current temps! Be that as it may, many nurseries are still selling chiles, and I'm sure you might be able to find some. I noticed them at Baker's Nursery in Arcadia this morning, though I don't recall the varieties. Your friend would do well to keep them in a container in full sun against a wall that can reflect heat and still cover in some row cover or other cloth. If it makes it through the winter, chiles should start blooming April. Linda Guy Master Gardener letourneau12@juno.com wrote: > I am looking for a place to purchase a Anaheim Chili Pepper plant to give to my best friend for her birthday in November. > > Please let me know if you know of such a place and how I could contat them. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:41:10 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:41:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Time Table for Lake Havasu and Flagstaff Lake Havasue would seem to me to be the low desert climate similar to Phoenix and you would find our online publication [AZ 1005]quite handy. CHeck it out in the vegetable section of our publications page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Another possibility is to follow the monthly gardening tasks, including planting, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm As you suspected, Flagstaff's planting calendar is going to be very, very different. Check out the website for the Arboretum in Flagstaff, as I'm sure they'll be able to provide some guidance http://www.thearb.org/ Also, contact that county's cooperative extension office for information similar to that which we provide to Maricopa County residents. http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener h-hesek@msn.com wrote: > whenis the best time to plant tomatoes in lake havasu city or flagstaff,az.? does elevation go into the consideration? any webb sites for more information on growning vegtable and flowers in this area? my son lives in lhc and i visited him in last oct. and his tomatoes did very well, i am thinking relocating to kingmand and am wondering about the elevation in regards to planting vegtables or flowers.. he has , what i can see, nothing but sand so i told him fertilizing was very important and to add some bagged soil/manure and or fertilizer for the tomatoes. the crop was fantastic. the library in lake havasu city was very deficent on information on this type of material. i was very disapointed. (sorry about the spelling) because i am from ilinois ,i know that growing veggies and flower will very different, i would like to have more information on when, (time of year) what, is the best plants. etc. etc. sorry i have taken so much of your time. this is very! > important to me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:42:40 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:42:40 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Tulips] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------33893783788EEFBEF9BDDF74 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I hope a similar response sent to someone else in early October is of assistance to you. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------33893783788EEFBEF9BDDF74 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 47504 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2000 16:33:21 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2000 16:33:21 -0000 Received: (qmail 89638 invoked from network); 3 Oct 2000 16:33:19 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2000 16:33:19 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id JAA19651; Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:33:02 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.5]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id JAA19586 for ; Tue, 3 Oct 2000 09:32:45 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 71393 invoked by alias); 3 Oct 2000 16:28:36 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu@fixme Received: (qmail 66846 invoked by uid 0); 3 Oct 2000 16:27:04 -0000 Received: from vdslf89.phnx.uswest.net (HELO uswest.net) (216.161.186.89) by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 3 Oct 2000 16:27:04 -0000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:18:41 -0700 Message-ID: <39DA06E0.9D4DBF45@uswest.net> From: "Linda Guy" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: azgogel@aol.com Cc: "Arid gardener server" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <200010022247.PAA29552@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tulips X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 It is rare that tulips are much more than an annual in our outdoors, although I am sure that somewhere there is a gardener who just loves them so much that s/he does absolutely everything needed to have them bloom year after year. Generally they are planted Nov/Dec timeframe, although NOW is the time to buy the bulbs because they do so much better with 3-4 weeks of chill in your refrigerator. Lack of winter chill is one of the reasons they don't do well if left in ground. Blooms are then anticipated mid-Feb to mid-April. [If you had a cool dark cellar, you could put them there in a container for a couple weeks and then bring back to room temps, forcing the blooms in the pot.] Regardless of the planting calendar I just presented, the daytime temps should drop into the low 80 degree range for optimal performance. Beds need to be prepared with plenty of organic material for drainage and the slight acidifying effect [peat helps this particularly]. Use well-composted manure only if you can wait a few weeks [one reference said six weeks] to allow for the risk of burning your bulbs to abate. Phosphate in your fertilizer is of particular assistance to blooms. If your soil is too heavy [clay] another amendment that can be beneficial is small gravel/pumice or sand. Planting depth is generally 2-3 times the thickness of the bulb, unless it is heavy clay, again. For tulips, the recommended depth in an old UA publication was 6-8" measured at the bulb's base. If ground critters are a problem in your area [you certainly might have run into this in the midwest as well] I believe they are sometimes planted wrapped in a loose wire mesh. A 7-10 day watering schedule should be adequate even in full sun, as long as you are watering deeply, through the bulb zone. A lower nitrogen fertilizer, again with phosphate [e.g. ammonium phosphate 16-20-0] applied 2-3 times during the season will maintain beautiful blooms. Reduce watering after the bloom cycle and do not dig out bulbs until the foliage is completely dry and the bulbs have matured [tan/brown coat is a mature bulb; a white one is not.]. In my experience, daffodils and iris [bulbous varieties like dutch] are hardier, have less chill requirement and can stay in the ground several years. I've never had a tulip come back. Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just that these are fussier and require more care/attention. There used to be an old publication on Bulbs for S. Az. [Q382]. You might call the Cooperative Extension Office and ask the Master Gardener desk if it is still available.602/470-8086 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Bulb beds should be rotated to avoid nematodes. azgogel@aol.com wrote: > i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------33893783788EEFBEF9BDDF74-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:49:01 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:49:01 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds I agree with the prior response regarding the need to scarify the pods before planting. FYI, the orange seeds inside are poisonous, so be careful with children and pets. Linda Guy Master Gardener jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com wrote: > I have a mountain laurel that has produced a good quantity of seed pods. I opened several of the pods and now have several seeds that I'd like to try to germinate. I've not had success in the past and would like to know if you have any suggestions for a procedure that might work. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:54:40 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:54:40 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie Frost Tolerance in Low Desert --------------927E0C1C6E424FCB4CF1228A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Did you ever get a response, because I'd like to know too! Over the last decade of gardening in Phoenix mild winters, I've never used row covers and just permitted my cold season produce to go a bit dormant for 2-6 weeks. I'm in the central city, so it's not as cold as the far reaches of the Valley. This year I'm thinking of laying row cover on half the garden to see what difference it makes. It should also help with the little cabbage loopers which I usually just endure or occasionally use Bt. PS. Unless you provide lots of sun and frost protection, fruiting veggies like chiles are not considered a cool season annual here. Linda Guy Master Gardener "David M. Kerr" wrote: > Is there one place which lists the frost tolerance of winter garden > plants? How much cold, and for how long, can plants like romaine, > broccoli, potato, garlic, brussel sprouts, jalepenos, leeks etc > tolerate? --------------927E0C1C6E424FCB4CF1228A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Did you ever get a response, because I'd like to know too! Over the last decade of gardening in Phoenix mild winters, I've never used row covers and just permitted my cold season produce to go a bit dormant for 2-6 weeks. I'm in the central city, so it's not as cold as the far reaches of the Valley.

This year I'm thinking of laying row cover on half the garden to see what difference it makes. It should also help with the little cabbage loopers which I usually just endure or occasionally use Bt.

PS. Unless you provide lots of sun and frost protection, fruiting veggies like chiles are not considered a cool season annual here.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

"David M. Kerr" wrote:

Is there one place which lists the frost tolerance of winter garden plants?  How much cold, and for how long, can plants like romaine, broccoli, potato, garlic, brussel sprouts, jalepenos, leeks etc tolerate?  
--------------927E0C1C6E424FCB4CF1228A-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 17:58:01 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:58:01 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Skeletons If you received a reply, I would love to see a copy which you can post to arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu for all server members to see. If you did not, may I suggest you ask the Desert Botanical Garden hotline, which is available M-F, 10 to 11:30 am at 480/941-1225. Linda Guy Master Gardener mbarj@concentric.net wrote: > I'd like to know how to clean/preserve saguaro skeletons. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 18:04:53 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:04:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemons One year, just to see what would occur, I withheld fertilizer from my lime tree and had virtually no production. Just wanted to satisfy myself that fertilizer is as important as everyone said it was! I suspect your enhanced care practices are putting your lemon tree back on track. If you want to see more about harvest times by citrus variety check out our pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top particularly AZ 1001 which is online. It's not unusual to have maturing fruit and new blooms on the tree at the same time. kaneal@home.com wrote: > Our Lemon tree with a 5 inch diameter has never given us very many lemons. We have given it more water at your suggestion, also fertilized and it has leafed out nicely. Two weeks ago it dropped some leaves and has started blooming. I can now see several small lemons developing. Isn't this the wrong time of year for this to be happening? Previously, it would blossom out with a ton of blossoms in the spring, but no lemons would develop. I'm crossing my fingers the few lemons that are there now will eventually develop, hang on and rippen up. Any suggestions on what is happening with this tree? Thanks for your help! > Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 18:16:18 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:16:18 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Control I have heard, though never used, products based on corn byproducts which act as herbicides in lawns. Perhaps the company has something similar for non-turf areas. http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp? Another option, if you cannot manually remove weeds, is to torch them. The seeds in the vicinity will also get baked with this approach. Another purveyor of organic practices sells them, or at least you can see a picture of what I'm discussing. http://www.groworganic.com/ Linda Guy Master Gardener carmlita@aol.com wrote: > We normally have a pre-emergent herbicide applied to our yard. However, we have learned that our senior citizen dog has liver problems and are concerned about exposure to the chemicals. Is there a non-toxic treatment that can be used for weeds that are appearing now and as a pre-emergent? > Thanks very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Nov 16 18:21:26 2000 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:21:26 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F4C63B9407A4C2522E65D2BE Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I meant to say scarify the seeds! --------------F4C63B9407A4C2522E65D2BE Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 91042 invoked by uid 0); 16 Nov 2000 18:01:42 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 Nov 2000 18:01:42 -0000 Received: (qmail 23112 invoked from network); 16 Nov 2000 18:01:41 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 Nov 2000 18:01:41 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id LAA19571; Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:01:02 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.4]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id LAA19382 for ; Thu, 16 Nov 2000 11:00:05 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 29219 invoked by alias); 16 Nov 2000 18:00:06 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu@fixme Received: (qmail 29183 invoked by uid 0); 16 Nov 2000 18:00:06 -0000 Received: from vdslf112.phnx.uswest.net (HELO uswest.net) (216.161.186.112) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 Nov 2000 18:00:06 -0000 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thu, 16 Nov 2000 10:49:01 -0700 Message-ID: <3A141E0D.D0CEBF44@uswest.net> From: "Linda Guy" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com Cc: "Arid gardener server" X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <200011151636.JAA09363@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Mountain Laurel Seeds X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I agree with the prior response regarding the need to scarify the pods before planting. FYI, the orange seeds inside are poisonous, so be careful with children and pets. Linda Guy Master Gardener jhlaasw@ix.netcom.com wrote: > I have a mountain laurel that has produced a good quantity of seed pods. I opened several of the pods and now have several seeds that I'd like to try to germinate. I've not had success in the past and would like to know if you have any suggestions for a procedure that might work. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------F4C63B9407A4C2522E65D2BE-- From rcdemark@aol.com Fri Nov 17 16:32:22 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 09:32:22 -0700 (MST) From: rcdemark@aol.com rcdemark@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I want to overseed my lawn but the Burmuda grass is still green. Will I damage the Burmuda if I do it at this time? From 06kelong@ksbe.edu Fri Nov 17 18:53:09 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 11:53:09 -0700 (MST) From: 06kelong@ksbe.edu 06kelong@ksbe.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page do you know what the effect of gray water is on plants? especially french marigolds? thankx a lot! From saltou@uswest.net Fri Nov 17 20:26:19 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 13:26:19 -0700 (MST) From: saltou@uswest.net saltou@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just moved here from out of state and want to have a vegetable garden in our back yard. We plan on having five raised beds approx. four feet by eight feet. What is the best material to make the raised beds with? My husband thought about using wood but someone told us that termites are a problem. We don"t want to spend too much money on it but would like it to look nice. What are some of the options? Thanks! From HRB85373@aol.com Fri Nov 17 21:13:48 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 14:13:48 -0700 (MST) From: HRB85373@aol.com HRB85373@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What could be eating our very large prickly pear cactus? We have chunks chewed out of the pads 3 & 4 ft high, so it could not be rabbits. some of the pads just have large portions of the outer skin chewed away, leaving white areas which eventually dry up the pad. Could it be pack rats? Thanks! From saz621@primenet.com Fri Nov 17 22:40:43 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:40:43 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds I am an enormous fan of raised beds and have built quite a few here. One set was of rough cut redwood planks but I think they are now hard to find. I joined the ends with angle irons attached with wood screws. When I removed them, to replace them 8 years later, they were in one piece although there was a bit of wear and rot on the soil side. I now use two for a raised flower bed and one for a propagation area and expect them to be functional for at least 8 more years and perhaps more. The second set I built was from redwood 2x2 posts to which I attached redwood 2x4 cut to size. I then fill in the frame with vertically mounted cedar dogearned fence posts. Again all attachment was with wood screws. I made this style because in that caseI wanted beds that were much taller, in one up to 27 inches (sitting height) and the other 30 inches (standing or counter height). They are now 5 years old and still work just fine and don't appear to need any further work. The final group I just finished and they are made of two rows of 8"x8"x16" concrete block, two rows high. They could easily be three rows high if desired. They, of course, will never rot, can be painted if that is of interest. Although block is heavy, it is easy to assemble, no mortar is required for this use. I have seen other gardener's beds made of old wood around the place (it just doesn't last as long), poured concrete, plastic lumber (pretty pricey) and old doors. The only thing I would recommend against using is pressure treated wood because the compounds used to treat it will leach with repeated watering and it not a good idea to eat the stuff. Hope it helps, Mary Irish saltou@uswest.net wrote: > We just moved here from out of state and want > to have a vegetable garden in our back yard. > We plan on having five raised beds approx. > four feet by eight feet. What is the best > material to make the raised beds with? My > husband thought about using wood but someone > told us that termites are a problem. We don"t > want to spend too much money on it but would > like it to look nice. What are some of the > options? Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From saz621@primenet.com Fri Nov 17 22:42:36 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 15:42:36 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:eating cactus Don't think it can't be rabbits because of the height. A full grown jackrabbit can stand on its hind feet and be over 4 feet tall and can reach even further. It is in fact most like from the damage you describe that jackrabbits are eating your plants. Pack rats and other small rodents and even a few insects eat cactus, but their mouths are tiny and so are their initial nibbles. Mary HRB85373@aol.com wrote: > What could be eating our very large prickly pear cactus? We have chunks chewed out of the pads 3 & 4 ft high, so it could not be rabbits. some of the pads just have large portions of the outer skin chewed away, leaving white areas which eventually dry up the pad. Could it be pack rats? Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sonja.branch@asu.edu Sat Nov 18 00:40:12 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 17:40:12 -0700 (MST) From: sonja.branch@asu.edu sonja.branch@asu.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I'm new to the list, and I'm so glad to have found it because I hope someone out there can help me. I have a (I think) desert museum palo verde that's been in the ground for just over a year. A couple of months ago I started seeing numerous "chewed-up" strips in the bark, usually 1/2" to 1 1/2" long and no more than a 1/4" wide, with new damage always appearing over night. I started asking around for clues about what might be causing this and no-one could give a definite answer, only suggestions. After implementing various tactics to try and catch the culpit (I had eliminated disease along the way) I finally caught one of them in the act at 12:45 this morning: it's brown, and it looks and moves like a inchworm (though this particular one that I captured is not quite an inch long.) Does anyone know exactly what these critters are, and how I can control them? Despite all the scars the tree seems to be alright so far, but I don't know if it can continue to survive the loss of so much bark in some places. It doesn't help the trees appearance, either. I'd appreciate any insight folks might have to offer on this problem. Sonja From MTCactiPi@aol.com Sat Nov 18 03:42:41 2000 Date: Fri, 17 Nov 2000 20:42:41 -0700 (MST) From: MTCactiPi@aol.com MTCactiPi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a red grapefruit tree planted in my yard in Tucson. I planted it in the summer of 99 and it is about 5.5 feet tall. Last winter it lost most all of its leaves to frost and some of the small branches. My question is, do I need to protect it this year. Many people told me that since I planted it in the summer that it didn't get a chance to establish before our chilly weather. Will my tree do this agin this year? I live near a big wash where it gets colder, but many of my neighbors have citrus that is well established, is loaded with fruit and looks great. What advice can you give me? The tree is on the south side of my property and get full sun all day. Thaks for any suggestions. From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sat Nov 18 17:05:38 2000 Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 12:05:38 EST From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] prickly pear Javaline eat prickly pear cactus and that's where mine went. B From DERIK287@aol.com Sat Nov 18 17:41:34 2000 Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 10:41:34 -0700 (MST) From: DERIK287@aol.com DERIK287@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! This long time apt dweller purchased a home this summer. This is my first time doing any lawn care and am at a complete loss on certain topics. My greatest concern now is with the roses. There is a tall (5ft) full plant on the south side and 4 2ft plants to the north. Two of the small plants appear dead w/ minimal green to the stems, no leaves. The other two have a few green leaves and stems. My questions: How and when do I prune? What basic care do I need to give to get me started? and, Where can I find a very simple pamphlet, fact sheet etc. on rose care? Thanks. Derik From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Nov 18 19:34:05 2000 Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 14:34:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Overseeding bermuda Overseeding will not damage the bermuda, however if you live in Maricopa County it is too late to overseed unless we get a warm spell. This week the soil temperature in Mesa was in the low 50s which is about 10 degrees below that which will sprout rye grass seed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From cdavidson@az.rmci.net Sun Nov 19 18:14:13 2000 Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 11:14:13 -0700 (MST) From: cdavidson@az.rmci.net cdavidson@az.rmci.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our jacaranda tree in the front yard has turned lemon yellow. The tree is about six years old and receives full sun. What is the problem? From umiller@azdps.com Sun Nov 19 17:22:39 2000 Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 10:22:39 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea Leaf Edges Browning This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C05212.A4B6B460 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a fairly new (planted 2 months ago) bougainvillea with the variegated leaves in a pot on my patio. It has been doing very well, but recently the leaves on the edges have started browning and drying. I'm almost sure that it's not due to too little water. It might, in fact, be too much water since I've not cut back on watering my potted plants as much as I probably should have. None of the other bougainvilleas on the patio have their leaves changing like this, though, so I'm not sure what the problem is. Could it be that this variegated kind is more susceptible to too much water or cooler nights? (I think it's called Raspberry Ice or something like that.) Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C05212.A4B6B460 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a fairly new = (planted 2=20 months ago) bougainvillea with the variegated leaves in a pot on my = patio. =20 It has been doing very well, but recently the leaves on the edges have = started=20 browning and drying.  I'm almost sure that it's not due to too = little=20 water.  It might, in fact, be too much water since I've not cut = back on=20 watering my potted plants as much as I probably should have.  None = of the=20 other bougainvilleas on the patio have their leaves changing like this, = though,=20 so I'm not sure what the problem is.  Could it be that this = variegated kind=20 is more susceptible to too much water or cooler nights?  (I think = it's=20 called Raspberry Ice or something like that.)
 
Ursula = Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C05212.A4B6B460-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 19 21:27:44 2000 Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 16:27:44 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jacaranda with yellow leaves There are many things that can cause yellow leaves but I suspect that your problem may be caused by too much water. In the last three or four weeks we have had a lot of rainfall. If you haven't changed your irrigation to adjust for the rainfall and the cooler weather then your problem is too much water. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From KL480@AOL.COM Sun Nov 19 23:45:15 2000 Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 16:45:15 -0700 (MST) From: KL480@AOL.COM KL480@AOL.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have several mature Desert Cassia shrubs in my backyard, they are about five feet apart. Earlier in the year I started noticing some branches seem to be dying. The needles have dried up and fallen off, the branches are very brittle and have what looks like a black stain on them. It seems to be getting worse. I'm wondering if this is some kind of fungus. From goodingpn@cs.com Tue Nov 21 20:48:11 2000 Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 13:48:11 -0700 (MST) From: goodingpn@cs.com goodingpn@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a foothills paloverde that has leaves that turn yellow and drop off. It was planted in April, so it is a new tree but has grown fast. it's leaves turned yellow in mid october, then it greened up and now some are again turning yellow. I am new to area and need to know if this is normal or, if not, what is the cause. it is on a drip system and surrounded by other plants that are also watered regularly. I have thought about cuttimg back on watering but am hesitant to do so until i know for sure it will help. From steve.sheard@motorola.com Tue Nov 21 22:07:54 2000 Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 15:07:54 -0700 (MST) From: steve.sheard@motorola.com steve.sheard@motorola.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a raised (2') flower bed for roses that is seriously infested by roots from my neighbors Cotton Wood tree. The tree is about 25' away on the other side of a block fence. The foundation of the block fence is 1' below ground level (3' below the top of my rose bed). I am digging out all the roots. What can I treat the soil below the wall with to stop the roots coming back into the rose bed? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Nov 21 23:26:39 2000 Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:26:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Palo Verde with yellow leaves If you haven't cut back on your irrigation to a winter watering schedule then over watering is likely the cause of the yellow leaves. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dang2@prodigy.net Wed Nov 22 04:37:38 2000 Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 21:37:38 -0700 (MST) From: dang2@prodigy.net dang2@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have Tomato plants in pots on my patio, my plants have nice size tomatoes on them. They have been planted for about 2 months. Last week the frost got to one of my plants and it's leaves and stems are wilted, very soft. Is there anyway to bring them back to life? I have tryed using B-1 on it. Will the tomatoes still ripen? From hmcgover@qwest.net Wed Nov 22 15:33:31 2000 Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 08:33:31 -0700 (MST) From: hmcgover@qwest.net hmcgover@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you tell me if chestnut trees will thrive/produce in the Phoenix area? If so, what varieties would be best? Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Nov 22 22:53:00 2000 Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 17:53:00 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Chestnut tree None of the Chestnut tree varieties are suitable for growth in the Phoenix area. They just can't handle the alkaline soils and the high summer temperatures. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Wed Nov 22 22:29:55 2000 Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 15:29:55 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Tree Yellow Leaves This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C05499.10BE2480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I thought that I'd post this on the arid-gardener site for the archives. It seems to be a question that comes up occasionally and maybe someone else can benefit from it. Mr. Wright gave me the OK to post it. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: Glenn C. Wright [mailto:gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu] Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2000 2:39 PM To: Ursula Miller ;; MTCactiPi@aol.com Subject: Citrus Tree Yellow Leaves Hello: As state citrus specialist, I thought that I would answer this question. The best resource we have to determine citrus tree water schedules is a publication called "Irrigating Citrus Trees". It can be found at cooperative extension offices, or on line at www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf. This publication has a table that will help a homeowner determine the daily citrus tree water use depending on tree size and month of the year. According to the table, MTCactiPi's tree (4 ft wide) has water use rates ranging from 0.3 to 2.4 gallons of water per day, depending on the month. Of course, extra water would be needed if there was any runoff, or if the tree was planted in grass, since the grass would use some water that is directed toward the tree. I would be generous when measuring tree width, as it is usually better to overwater than to underwater. We recommend irrigating every 2 to 5 days from July to September when using emitters, and decreasing to every 14 to 21 days in December and January. See the publication for more details. MTCactiPi's tree may have some iron, zinc or manganese deficiency, however if leaf symptoms are not widespread, I would suggest ignoring the problem. However, if symptoms are widespread, chelated micronutrients applied to the leaves are the quickest way to remedy the problem. Good luck, GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 520-726-0458 FAX: 520-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C05499.10BE2480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I thought=20 that I'd post this on the arid-gardener site for the archives.  It = seems to=20 be a question that comes up occasionally and maybe someone else can = benefit from=20 it.  Mr. Wright gave me the OK to = post=20 it. 
 
Ursula = Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn C. Wright=20 [mailto:gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu]
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, = 2000=20 2:39 PM
To: Ursula Miller ;; = MTCactiPi@aol.com
Subject:=20 Citrus Tree Yellow Leaves

Hello:

As=20 state citrus specialist, I thought that I would answer this=20 question.

The best resource we have to determine citrus tree = water=20 schedules is a publication called "Irrigating Citrus Trees".  It = can be=20 found at cooperative extension offices, or on line at www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf.  = This=20 publication has a table that will help a homeowner determine the daily = citrus=20 tree water use depending on tree size and month of the year. =20

According to the table, MTCactiPi's tree (4 ft wide) has water = use=20 rates ranging from 0.3 to 2.4 gallons of water per day, depending on = the=20 month.  Of course, extra water would be needed if there was any = runoff,=20 or if the tree was planted in grass, since the grass would use some = water that=20 is directed toward the tree.  I would be generous when measuring = tree=20 width, as it is usually better to overwater than to = underwater.

We=20 recommend irrigating every 2 to 5 days from July to September when = using=20 emitters, and decreasing to every 14 to 21 days in December and = January. =20 See the publication for more details.

MTCactiPi's tree may have = some=20 iron, zinc or manganese deficiency, however if leaf symptoms are not=20 widespread, I would suggest ignoring the problem.  However, if = symptoms=20 are widespread, chelated micronutrients  applied to the leaves = are the=20 quickest way to remedy the problem.

Good=20 luck,

GCW


Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D.
Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist
University of Arizona
Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center
Route 1, Box 40M
Somerton, AZ 85350
Phone: 520-726-0458
FAX: 520-726-1363
e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu=20
------=_NextPart_000_000D_01C05499.10BE2480-- From DiDeroch@aol.com Fri Nov 24 18:43:54 2000 Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 11:43:54 -0700 (MST) From: DiDeroch@aol.com DiDeroch@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 24" box Ficus Nitida that was planted in late May. The only time it has done well was the first two weeks when I watered it everyday (per Moon Valley's instructions). It has new growth, but the leaves are yellow and stay very small. I water it by drip system with threee 2 gallon drippers for 1 1/2 hours, twice a week. What am I doing wrong? From janet@usawebservices.com Sat Nov 25 00:42:43 2000 Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 17:42:43 -0700 (MST) From: janet@usawebservices.com janet@usawebservices.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! A master gardener, Jana Bordeau, sent me here to find a publication on "How to Hire an arborist." I can't find it on the site. Please direct me. I have been quoted $1000 to prune and shape a large Elipo Pine. Is this outrageous or am I in the dark ages? Thanks. Janet From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Nov 25 02:17:18 2000 Date: Fri, 24 Nov 2000 19:17:18 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: "How to Hire an Arborist." See "How to Hire a Tree Expert" at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1003.pdf Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > A master gardener, Jana Bordeau, sent me here to find a publication on "How to Hire an arborist." I can't find it on the site. Please direct me. > > From sprocket@primenet.com Sat Nov 25 15:20:57 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 08:20:57 -0700 (MST) From: sprocket@primenet.com sprocket@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is it possible to grow persimmons in Tucson? We live in an area that gets very cold during the winter, down to below freezing. Thanks. From michaela@plp.com Sat Nov 25 18:05:25 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 11:05:25 -0700 (MST) From: michaela@plp.com michaela@plp.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I get information regarding proper trimming of bougainvillea at this time of year? From skidroe@theriver.com Sat Nov 25 18:19:37 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 11:19:37 -0700 (MST) From: skidroe@theriver.com skidroe@theriver.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is a good time to prune fruit (citrus) trees, when they are dormant? thank you Brian Roe From umiller@azdps.com Sat Nov 25 21:34:39 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 14:34:39 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Time for Bougainvilleas Here's a response that I pulled off the arid-gardener searchable archives site at http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ to a previous question like yours. Wait until after the danger of frost to prune Bougainvillea to minimize the chance of frost burn. Bougainvillea is quite frost tender anyway and new growth becomes even more so. You can continue to prune if necessary throughout spring, summer and fall. Good luck. Rod Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of michaela@plp.com Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 11:05 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I get information regarding proper trimming of bougainvillea at this time of year? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 26 01:56:46 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 20:56:46 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Ficus nitida with yellow leaves Yellow leaves can be caused by either too much or not enough water plus other things. If you are still watering at the rate of nine gallons twice a week then you are probably over watering. The heavy rainfall in late October made the situation worse. Your tree would be in much better condition if in the summer in the low desert you watered only once a week and set the clock for at least double the time. As the temperatures cool plants use much less water. Now watering once every three to four weeks is adequate. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 26 01:56:57 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 20:56:57 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning Citrus Brian, A better time to prune citrus is after the danger of frost is past. Prune only to remove dead wood and to keep with in bounds, bearing in mind that you should not remove more than 15% at one time. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Nov 26 01:56:53 2000 Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 20:56:53 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning Bougainvillea One should wait until the danger of frost is past to prune Bougainvillea and then prune to keep within bounds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Sun Nov 26 21:06:43 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 14:06:43 -0700 (MST) From: Don Garnett dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nov. 16 post on tulips Dear Linda, Would your discussion of bulb chilling, etc. for tulips apply to crocuses as well? My girlfriend has just planted crocus bulbs in our garden (we live in Tucson). Thanks, Don Garnett From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Nov 26 23:48:43 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:48:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Insect ID You can take a specimen to the satellite office nearest to you, or better yet, take it to the county's Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road in Phoenix. There is a weekly diagnostic meeting comprised of staff and volunteer Master Gardeners who work on problems submitted by the public. Someone will call you after the meeting to discuss the committee's findings. Satellite office addresses are listed on the page of our website where you originally posted your query. Sorry I could not ID your critter myself. Linda Guy Master Gardener sonja.branch@asu.edu wrote: > Hi, I'm new to the list, and I'm so glad to have found it because I hope someone out there can help me. I have a (I think) desert museum palo verde that's been in the ground for just over a year. A couple of months ago I started seeing numerous "chewed-up" strips in the bark, usually 1/2" to 1 1/2" long and no more than a 1/4" wide, with new damage always appearing over night. I started asking around for clues about what might be causing this and no-one could give a definite answer, only suggestions. After implementing various tactics to try and catch the culpit (I had eliminated disease along the way) I finally caught one of them in the act at 12:45 this morning: it's brown, and it looks and moves like a inchworm (though this particular one that I captured is not quite an inch long.) Does anyone know exactly what these critters are, and how I can control them? Despite all the scars the tree seems to be alright so far, but I don't know if it can continue to survive the ! > loss of so much bark in some places. It doesn't help the trees appearance, either. I'd appreciate any insight folks might have to offer on this problem. > > Sonja > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Nov 26 23:51:31 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:51:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Frost Protection Since you experienced frost damage last year, and we've had colder temps much earlier this season, I would strongly advise you to consider protective measures. We have an excellent publication on the topic in the Weather section of our publications page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weather This pub is online and you can access it directly from this page. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener MTCactiPi@aol.com wrote: > I have a red grapefruit tree planted in my yard in Tucson. I planted it in the summer of 99 and it is about 5.5 feet tall. Last winter it lost most all of its leaves to frost and some of the small branches. My question is, do I need to protect it this year. Many people told me that since I planted it in the summer that it didn't get a chance to establish before our chilly weather. Will my tree do this agin this year? I live near a big wash where it gets colder, but many of my neighbors have citrus that is well established, is loaded with fruit and looks great. What advice can you give me? The tree is on the south side of my property and get full sun all day. Thaks for any suggestions. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Nov 27 00:03:56 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:03:56 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID - Cactus Without knowledge of your location, with damage at a height of 3 to 4 feet, I'd suggest looking for either deer or javelina. I suppose you could try to identify animal droppings in the area for additional input. You might find some interesting ideas at this page of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener HRB85373@aol.com wrote: > What could be eating our very large prickly pear cactus? We have chunks chewed out of the pads 3 & 4 ft high, so it could not be rabbits. some of the pads just have large portions of the outer skin chewed away, leaving white areas which eventually dry up the pad. Could it be pack rats? Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Nov 27 00:13:24 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:13:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Nov. 16 post on tulips In an old publication which we no longer distribute, chilling was only recommended for tulips. I have personally left daffodils, iris [bulb or dutch types] and crocus in the ground from year to year with success. A good reason to dig them out for storage over the summer is if you had them in a very heavily watered bed where they would risk rotting. I gave up on tulips, since they always performed as an annual, that is, one season only, even with the chilling. Linda Guy Master Gardener Don Garnett wrote: > Dear Linda, > > Would your discussion of bulb chilling, etc. for tulips apply > to crocuses as well? My girlfriend has just planted crocus > bulbs in our garden (we live in Tucson). > > Thanks, > Don Garnett From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Nov 27 00:18:15 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:18:15 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine Tree ID - Roadrunner Park I am trying to locate someone at the City of Phoenix for you to contact directly. Linda Guy Master Gardener Hank Beaulieu wrote: > In one of our Phoenix city parks (Roadrunner) there is a pine tree that we would like to > purchase and plant in our back yard. Unfortunately we don't know what kind it is. Possibly > you can help identify it. > > It is about 12' to 15' tall. > The tree is dense. > The branches are no longer than 4' to 5' long. > The branches go all the way to the bottom of the trunk. > The needles are a medium green about 3" to 5" long. > Most of the cones grow about half way up a branch in pairs. > The branches and needles point upwards. > > Thanks for any help you can provide. > > Hank Beaulieu > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Nov 27 03:12:31 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:12:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale You have a webbing that is produced by a minute critter called a scale. Read up about what this is and how to manage it at the following link to the College of Agriculture. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html neghlg@aol.com wrote: > Our prickly pear cactus is getting white blotches. I assume it is a fungus. What should I do to get rid of it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Nov 27 03:14:11 2000 Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 20:14:11 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Interesting Site Thought you might be interested in perusing this. Or maybe you already knew about it and I've just caught on! http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/index.html Linda From saltou@uswest.net Mon Nov 27 13:35:33 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 06:35:33 -0700 (MST) From: saltou@uswest.net saltou@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have about 6 feet between our back wall to our property and the curbing for the grass area in our back yard. Is there enough room to plant a citrus tree there? How close should we plant to the curb where the grass starts? We what to plant an orange tree, lemon tree and a grapefruit tree. Do they come in dwarf varities? What is the best for eating or juicing? How close can I plant the trees to each other. Thanks. Debbie From saz621@primenet.com Mon Nov 27 16:29:29 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:29:29 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Nov. 16 post on tulips LInda and others, I would add one note on the tulip issue. I have grown Tulipa cluseana (which is pretty easy to find) and Tulipa saxatilis (which is mail order only) for many years in the ground. These species are from lower elevations of the Middle East and do perfectly well here. I never lift them and they multiply readily. Both are much smaller in stature than hybrid tulips, but bloom last well and the benefits of just leaving them in the ground to have them return year after year far exceeded my expectations. Mary Irish Linda Guy wrote: > In an old publication which we no longer distribute, chilling was only > recommended for tulips. I have personally left daffodils, iris [bulb or > dutch types] and crocus in the ground from year to year with success. A > good reason to dig them out for storage over the summer is if you had > them in a very heavily watered bed where they would risk rotting. > > I gave up on tulips, since they always performed as an annual, that is, > one season only, even with the chilling. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > Don Garnett wrote: > > > Dear Linda, > > > > Would your discussion of bulb chilling, etc. for tulips apply > > to crocuses as well? My girlfriend has just planted crocus > > bulbs in our garden (we live in Tucson). > > > > Thanks, > > Don Garnett > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rcdemark@aol.com Mon Nov 27 16:51:10 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:51:10 -0700 (MST) From: rcdemark@aol.com rcdemark@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in the foot hills area. I have a Fig tree that wes planted 2 years ago. Now it is showing signs of iron chlorsis. Is this nornal and if not what can I do to help this condition? The leaves are getting yellow with the veins still green. From Alice.Tyson-Sordahl@aps.com Mon Nov 27 17:21:34 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:21:34 -0700 (MST) From: Alice.Tyson-Sordahl@aps.com Alice.Tyson-Sordahl@aps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of pre-emergant would last for 5 years? What percentage of the product is found in products like Round-UP? I am looking to kill weeds in an area of my property that I do not ever want to come back up. What product can I use? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Nov 27 22:54:19 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:54:19 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Iron chlorosis Iron chlorosis is often caused by over watering. I f you have not adjusted for winter watering then I would be quite positive that too much water is your problem. Deep watering once a month in the low desert is adequate for most trees during the winter. Applying chelated iron will help but you won't see much change until spring. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Nov 27 22:54:22 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 17:54:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Herbicides I don't know of a pre-emergent herbicide that will last for 5 years. The pre-emergents that I have used will lose effectiveness after 20 days. Roundup is a post-emergent herbicide and does not contain any pre-emergent. The product you are looking for is called a soil sterilent, but I cannot recommend the use of this kind of product in a residential area because it could remain in the soil for many years. Why not use a pre-emergent herbicide such as Surflan. S urflan when applied according to directions will in about two years nearly eliminate your weeds. It must be applied both spring and fall to kill the seeds of both summer and winter weeds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From naeve@ames.net Tue Nov 28 01:18:24 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:18:24 -0700 (MST) From: naeve@ames.net naeve@ames.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My parents just purchased a home in a retirement community in Peoria, Arizona. They will need some landscape materials and advice. Can you recommend a good, reputable nursery in their area where I could purchase a gift certificate for Christmas? If possible, send me their phone number. THANKS. Linda Naeve Ames, IA 515-292-7778 From candijet1@home.com Tue Nov 28 01:33:35 2000 Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:33:35 -0700 (MST) From: candijet1@home.com candijet1@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a purple sugar plumb tree that is leaking a tremendous amount of sap. We don't know why or what to do. They other type of plumb trees we have are doing ok. Thank you From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 28 13:34:16 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 05:34:16 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In a word--none. Nothing is available to last more than about 5-7 months and be effective short of a 5" thick concrete slab. ( just a touch of humor) --- Alice.Tyson-Sordahl@aps.com wrote: > What type of pre-emergant would last for 5 years? > What percentage of the product is found in products > like Round-UP? > I am looking to kill weeds in an area of my > property that I do not ever want to come back up. > What product can I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Tue Nov 28 13:38:50 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 05:38:50 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Iron is not absorbed by root systems to easily in oru soil and even less when the soil gets cold.Give the tree some chelated iron and it should be OK. --- rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > I live in the foot hills area. I have a Fig tree > that wes planted 2 years ago. Now it is showing > signs of iron chlorsis. Is this nornal and if not > what can I do to help this condition? The leaves > are getting yellow with the veins still green. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Nov 28 15:21:02 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 08:21:02 -0700 From: Carol Noyes cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] POINSETTIA FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERS NEEDED --=====================_990956==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed POINSETTIA FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERS Would you be interested in volunteering for the Poinsettia Festival? 1. Dec 1-3 mostly Sat & Sunday 2. 4 hour shifts 9:30 1:30 or 1:00 5pm 3. $30 gift certificate for each 4 hour shift may do more than 1 shift 4. Gift certificate can be given to someone as a gift Benefit for Toys for Tots Partial proceeds from the sale of Curly rose (winter rose) poinsettias will be donated to Toys for Tots Gardener's World will be a drop off location for Toys for Tots Volunteers will be given training prior to doing some of the following jobs: Greeter hand out brochures Assist customers with poinsettia sales Sleeve poinsettias Drive small Kubota tractors with trailer to take guests to the greenhouse Traffic control, radio to others and direct traffic on site (wear a safety red vest) Greenhouse assistance/answer questions, take photos Location 3401 E Baseline Rd Phoenix between 32 40th Street Phoenix on mountain side Free parking in lot west of GW (enter lot at 32nd Street stoplight) Wear casual but warm clothes for mornings, afternoons are usually warmer, may not need any jacket. Food available from a variety of vendors Communication via email sharon@gardenpro.net Phone response regarding volunteers scheduling to Charlotte x 120 or Sharon Petterson, Gardener's World @ 602-437-0700, ext 122 Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_990956==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" POINSETTIA FESTIVAL VOLUNTEERS

Would you be interested in volunteering for the Poinsettia Festival?

1.      Dec 1-3  mostly Sat & Sunday
2.      4 hour shifts  9:30 1:30  or 1:00  5pm
3.      $30 gift certificate for each 4 hour shift  may do more than 1 shift
4.      Gift certificate can be given to someone as a gift

Benefit for Toys for Tots  Partial proceeds from the sale of Curly rose (winter rose) poinsettias will be donated to Toys for Tots

Gardener's World will be a drop off location for Toys for Tots

Volunteers will be given training prior to doing some of the following jobs:
Greeter  hand out brochures
Assist customers with poinsettia sales
Sleeve poinsettias
Drive small Kubota tractors with trailer to take guests to the greenhouse
Traffic control, radio to others and direct traffic on site (wear a safety red vest)
Greenhouse assistance/answer questions, take photos

Location 3401 E Baseline Rd  Phoenix  between 32  40th Street Phoenix  on mountain side 
Free parking in lot west of GW  (enter lot at 32nd Street stoplight)
Wear casual but warm clothes for mornings,  afternoons are usually warmer, may not need any jacket. 
Food available from a variety of vendors 

Communication via email 
sharon@gardenpro.net
Phone response regarding volunteers scheduling to Charlotte x 120 or Sharon Petterson, Gardener’s World @ 602-437-0700, ext 122




Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_990956==_.ALT-- From saz621@primenet.com Tue Nov 28 16:37:40 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 09:37:40 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Just another thought. Fig trees are deciduous here and while they are preparing to shut down for the winter, the leaves turn yellow and then fall off. It doesn't necessaryily happen all at once. So if you think it coincides only with cold weather, they might just be going to their small winter rest. Mary john peder wrote: > Iron is not absorbed by root systems to easily in oru > soil and even less when the soil gets cold.Give the > tree some chelated iron and it should be OK. > > --- rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > > I live in the foot hills area. I have a Fig tree > > that wes planted 2 years ago. Now it is showing > > signs of iron chlorsis. Is this nornal and if not > > what can I do to help this condition? The leaves > > are getting yellow with the veins still green. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. > http://shopping.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From steve.sheard@motorola.com Tue Nov 28 17:53:46 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 10:53:46 -0700 (MST) From: steve.sheard@motorola.com steve.sheard@motorola.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Has anyone had experience using Bio Barrier or Trifluralin HF to control the passage of roots from Cotton Wood trees? Do they work? For how long? From edieweber1@hotmail.com Tue Nov 28 18:17:27 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 11:17:27 -0700 (MST) From: edieweber1@hotmail.com edieweber1@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know the name of the pink plants that have sprung up in disturbed soil around Fountain Hills and the Ft. McDowell reservation. They seem to grow to about a foot tall and each branch is covered with tiny pink and maroon flowers. There are prickers all over the branch, and the flowers seem to grow out of the prickers. From phg@citieswestpub.com Tue Nov 28 22:33:56 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 15:33:56 -0700 (MST) From: phg@citieswestpub.com phg@citieswestpub.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does anyone know about growing bamboo in the Valley? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Nov 28 23:13:07 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 18:13:07 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Plum tree losing sap When a tree starts to lose sap it is a sign that the tree is under stress. Stress can be caused by over or under watering, nearby construction, chemical application, caliche, improper pruning, watering with pool water, planting too close to a mature tree, gophers, air polution as well as other items. If you can identify the source of the stress and eliminate it your tree will be much happier. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From XER519@aol.com Wed Nov 29 02:30:04 2000 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 19:30:04 -0700 (MST) From: XER519@aol.com XER519@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, I am a student at Assabet Valley Regional Technical High School and i have to do a "Senior Project" and i choose to compare how to landscape two different landscapes with very different climates. Maine and Arizona. So i was hoping you could give me some ideas on what you would use to landscape a home down there in Arizona.(Trees, Shrubs, flowers...etc) I would very much appreciate it if you could help me. Thank you for your time ~Cathy~ From thgroves@infomagic.com Thu Nov 30 19:56:26 2000 Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 12:56:26 -0700 (MST) From: thgroves@infomagic.com thgroves@infomagic.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for flower suggestions. I am wanting to cover a large "berm" that is on the West side of my father's home in New River. What he had in mind was a mass planting of flowers but we need some sugestions as to what would be appropriate. He is looking for flowers that bloom year round or as close to it as possible. The area varies from full shade to full sun so a variety of flowers are probably in order. Having been born and raised in Flagstaff, I am new to gardening in this climate and would appreciate any suggestions. Thank you. From monkeyl@uswest.net Thu Nov 30 21:26:20 2000 Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 14:26:20 -0700 (MST) From: monkeyl@uswest.net monkeyl@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My ficus tree, which is a large one, just started losing lots of green leaves every day. They're not brown, or dried out. New healthy growth. What do you think could be going on? Thanks From p23492@email.mot.com Thu Nov 30 21:53:55 2000 Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 14:53:55 -0700 (MST) From: p23492@email.mot.com p23492@email.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I will be buying a resale home in Chandler in December and it has dormant bermuda grass. Can I still plant winter rye as late as January? From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Nov 30 22:41:47 2000 Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2000 15:41:47 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roadrunner Park Pine ID This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------7537B62CD7073EAD5905F044 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is someone at Phoenix Parks & Rec who may be able to help you. Linda --------------7537B62CD7073EAD5905F044 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 48360 invoked by uid 0); 28 Nov 2000 19:44:33 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Nov 2000 19:44:33 -0000 Received: (qmail 88882 invoked from network); 28 Nov 2000 19:44:27 -0000 Received: from copns1.ci.phoenix.az.us (HELO gozer.ci.phoenix.az.us) (148.167.202.131) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Nov 2000 19:44:27 -0000 Received: by gozer.ci.phoenix.az.us; Tue, 28 Nov 2000 12:46:53 -0700 (MST) Received: from ccmailsmtp.ci.phoenix.az.us ([148.167.33.13]) by gozer.ci.phoenix.az.us (8.8.8+Sun/8.8.8) with SMTP id MAA12746 for ; Tue, 28 Nov 2000 12:46:53 -0700 (MST) Received: from ccMail by ccmailsmtp.ci.phoenix.az.us (ccMail Link to SMTP R8.31.00.5) id AA975441018; Tue, 28 Nov 2000 12:50:22 -0700 Date: Tue, 28 Nov 2000 12:43:37 -0700 Message-Id: <0011289754.AA975441018@ccmailsmtp.ci.phoenix.az.us> From: "Alan Markley" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Cc: tmills@ci.phoenix.az.us, jvaldez@ci.phoenix.az.us X-Mailer: ccMail Link to SMTP R8.31.00.5 Subject: Re: PAYF FEEDBACK MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: "cc:Mail Note Part" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Best contact would be Terry Mills, Park Supervisor at (602) 262-1808. The most common pines planted in our parks are: Pinus halepensis - Aleppo Pine Pinus eldarica - Afghan Pine ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: PAYF FEEDBACK Author: Joyce Valdez at ~PARKS_PO1 Date: 11/27/2000 12:29 PM Alan, can you handle this query? Thanks. ______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________ Subject: PAYF FEEDBACK Author: Barbara Frazier at ~PIO_PO1 Date: 11/27/2000 11:29 AM Joyce, Could you forward this to the appropriate person? Thanks, Barb ______________________________ Forward Header __________________________________ Subject: PAYF FEEDBACK Author: at INTERNET-MAIL Date: 11/26/00 5:09 PM ****** THIS IS A 'PHOENIX AT YOUR FINGERTIPS' CITIZEN E-MAIL MESSAGE ****** (Remember: use your Internet e-mail instructions and the E-Mail Address provided below to respond electronically.) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am a Master Gardener with the UA who works answering questions on our website. We received a query about iidentifying a pine tree in Roadrunner Park. To whom can I direct this querent to get information on the plant variety? Linda Guy NAME: EMAIL: lindaguy@qwest.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------7537B62CD7073EAD5905F044-- From LBradley@sisna.com Wed Nov 1 03:02:02 2000 From: LBradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 20:02:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Blood Orange Dropping Fruit Early Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001031191918.00abc800@mail.sisna.com> The most common cause of fruit drop this late in the year is over fertilization which is often accompanied by leaf drop. Have you fertilized recently? The Arizona Master Gardener Manual which is on line offers some other possibilities. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/treefruits.html Florida's Commercial Citrus Management Handbook is on the web http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MENU_CHA as it their Home Citrus Handbook http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/MENU_XC Good Luck! Lucy Bradley >Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 12:10:30 -0700 >From: MUSIKEY@aol.com (by way of Lucy Bradley ) >Subject: Blood Orange Dropping Fruit Early > >Is there a website answering questions about citrus trees? My mature blood >orange is dropping its crop early. Lucy K. Bradley From kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov Fri Nov 3 16:36:33 2000 From: kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov (kjohnson@uswcl.ars.ag.gov) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 09:36:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200011031636.JAA27466@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you recommend a good tree surgeon? I live in south Scottsdale. Thank you. From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Nov 3 20:06:35 2000 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:06:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200011032006.NAA11602@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How well does bamboo grow in the Valley, and which types would you recommend? Which types would you avoid? Are there any good example of it that I could look at? From phg@citieswestpub.com Fri Nov 3 20:41:01 2000 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 13:41:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200011032041.NAA18900@Ag.Arizona.Edu> One of my co-workers is having problems with her petunias. They seem to be shriveling up and they're all sticky. They're planted in the ground and usually do well in this spot. Her mom is having the same problem (they both bought their plants at the same location). Any ideas? From umiller@azdps.com Fri Nov 3 23:47:47 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 3 Nov 2000 16:47:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200011032006.NAA11602@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - I looked it up in my Plants for Dry Climates book and it says that some kinds do well in our area. I was particularly interested in finding the answer to your question because a friend of mine me once that, while living in an apartment complex in Mesa, he got permission from the landlord to plant some bamboo near his unit. My friend said that the plant grew like crazy, became a nuisance, and he had to chop it all down. So I had a feeling that bamboo likes it here. Anyway, the book says: Bambusa glaucescens "Alphonse Karr" is a medium-sized bamboo of the clumping variety, 10-15 feet tall, can grow to 30 feet tall. Sensitive to cold (15 degrees is lowest temp limit). Plant in spring, part shade to full sun, needs moderate to ample water Bambusa glaucescens riviereorum "Chinese Goddess Bamboo" is a dwarf growing 4-6 feet tall. Needs part shade and shelter from hot dry winds, moderate to ample water, sensitive to cold (15 degrees) Bambusa Oldhamii "Oldham Bamboo" is tall, fast growing 15-25 feet and sometimes 40 feet. Partial shade to full sun. Foliage damaged at 20 degrees. Moderate to ample water. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of phg@citieswestpub.com Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 1:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How well does bamboo grow in the Valley, and which types would you recommend? Which types would you avoid? Are there any good example of it that I could look at? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ej10817@goodnet.com Sat Nov 4 12:49:28 2000 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Sat, 04 Nov 2000 04:49:28 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: References: <200011032006.NAA11602@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001104043659.00b3dcf0@pop.goodnet.com> At 04:47 PM 11/3/00 -0700, you wrote: >Hi - I looked it up in my Plants for Dry Climates book and it says that some >kinds do well in our area. > >I was particularly interested in finding the answer to your question because >a friend of mine me