From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 21:39:52 2000
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:39:52 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: SEPTIC TANK Plantings
I'm sorry Ella, but I don't know of a good resource for you at this time.
May I suggest that you call one of my Master Gardener colleagues at Maricopa
County Cooperative Extension for their advice? They are also volunteers, but
they are on site with a number of the University staff and sometimes get
better information that I have working from home.The phone number is on the
same page as the one where you originally posted this question, 602/470-8086
if my memory is good today. It also lists our satellite offices, also
staffed by MG volunteers. The nearest one could also be of assistance to
you.
I'd provide you the exact hyperlink, but the university's server appears to
be down and I can't access it directly at this moment. Go to
ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/ for the home page and at the end of the list will
be the function for asking a question.
Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.
Linda
Ella Mardick wrote:
> We have an active system. The area that we live in, everyone is on a
> septic system. Where would one check information on what can be planted
> near a septic tank & leach beds. I appreciate your help.
>
> At 03:01 PM 9/26/00 -0700, you wrote:
> >[Being resent do to last week's server problems.]
> >
> >I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the
> >additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most
> >honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field
> >have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my
> >experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes!
> >
> >Linda Guy
> >Master Gardener
> >
> >Ella Mardick wrote:
> >
> >> Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed?
> >
From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 22:10:45 2000
Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 15:10:45 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rhubarb anyone?
I have been fueling a resurrected passion for cooking by volunteering at
culinary classes at a well-known local kitchen gadgets store. [hint:
This Saturday I spent three hours at the sink pictured behind chef Susan
Schopp in last Wednesday's cooking section feature!]
This week's class on pies was presented by the store's owner and as we
exchanged stories about our best pies over the years, we were pleasantly
surprised to learn that our mutual favorite was plain, unadulterated
rhubarb [plenty of sugar, of course].
This Manitoba farm-girl [the owner, not me] would dearly love to grow a
stand of rhubarb and beseeched me to contact all of you in an effort to
secure any tricks at all to aid in this effort. Container growing is an
option. I told her that I'd researched it once upon a time some years
ago and had decided that it wasn't quite but perhaps close to hopeless,
since in 'normal' circumstances [like where we each grew up] there was
substantial winter chilling and longer cool springs. Also that I
suspected that any chance would be augmented by planting now and
treating this as an annual. [I'd also been told something similar about
artichokes, and have NO problem growing these however!]
She' been baking pies since age 8 and used to make as many as a dozen
daily during threshing season. She makes a mean pie and she means
business! Any hints, success stories, things to avoid, would be
appreciated.
Linda
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 2 00:36:38 2000
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:36:38 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm plant with yellow leave tips
It is difficult to answer your question about yellow leaves on your palm
plant without knowing what Palm plant you have.
Lack of fertilizer could be the cause of yellow leaves. Palms should be
fertilized 3 or 4 times a year with a special palm fertilizer. I'm not
familiar with the vitamins to which you refer.
Check out this website for more info on palm care:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From dmkerr@dancris.com Mon Oct 2 01:07:07 2000
Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:07:07 -0700
From: David M. Kerr dmkerr@dancris.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject)
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It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns =
scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy to =
let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to get =
manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take the =
cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some =
spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and oleanders =
in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half their weight and =
bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile.
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It is prime time for composters. =
My neighbors=20
are having their lawns scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I =
find the=20
gardeners happy to let me take the cuttings. It is less work than =
going to=20
a ranch to get manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and=20
gas to take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It =
helps=20
if you know some spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under =
citrus=20
trees and oleanders in my front yard. In a month, they =
will have lost=20
half their weight and bulk. I will relocate them to my compost=20
pile.
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From celtic_2@netzero.net Mon Oct 2 17:01:43 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 10:01:43 -0700 (MST)
From: celtic_2@netzero.net celtic_2@netzero.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
When should I plant rye grass? Is it necessary to cut my bermuda close to the ground before applying the rye seed? And how much water and fertilizer does rye need?
From wbelisle@speedchoice.com Mon Oct 2 20:38:15 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:38:15 -0700 (MST)
From: wbelisle@speedchoice.com wbelisle@speedchoice.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a lady banks rose that has been pruned as a shrub for many years. It is extremely large 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Should it be pruned like a climbing rose and when should I do it????
From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Oct 2 20:44:22 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:44:22 -0700 (MST)
From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Our condo association changed landscapers last year and altho the Pres. insists they know what they'll doing, I'm not convinced.
He feels that it is necessary to cut down the bushes (Oleander, the orange ones native to Africa, etc)to within 12 inches under the guise that they will "grow back stronger" - well, what has been cut back has certainlygrown back - but NOT stronger - I wish I knew their name, but the "orange bloomed ones from Africa" are now 8 - 10 ft high. very flimsy and wafting in the breezes. Another noticeable difference since his arrival is that all the "suckers" (small branches sprouting from main branches) have been left on all the trees (very noticeable on the African pepper trees - almost reaching the driveways) Not only do our pretty trees like like heck but isn't it UNHEALTY for them?? Doesn't it sap their strength?? i've never seen this left like this before,except in cases of neglect. Our condo corp.has over 100 units and the Pres. has clearly advised that he is very supportive of this new "expert". Before we band together to make a complain, we thought we should check with the real experts so that we could offer a remedy at the same time..I'm no gardener and I know we haven't been very specific about the bushes and trees, so if more infor is required,we will find the proper names...Thanking you in advance...
From spiessman@uswest.net Mon Oct 2 22:33:23 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:33:23 -0700 (MST)
From: spiessman@uswest.net spiessman@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible.
From azgogel@aol.com Mon Oct 2 22:47:34 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:47:34 -0700 (MST)
From: azgogel@aol.com azgogel@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks
From lyshogan@aol.com Mon Oct 2 23:15:59 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:15:59 -0700 (MST)
From: lyshogan@aol.com lyshogan@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My lysiloma trees are growing slowly, look sparse and have yellowing leaves. I fertilized and deep watered last week and now one of the trees is losing its leaves. The trees are about 5 years old.
Prior to this, I was watering every 2-4 weeks for three hours on a drip (equates to about 20-25 gallons of water).
Thank you.
From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:45:49 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:45:49 -0700 (MST)
From: gagacha@aol.com gagacha@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season.
Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall?
Thands much for reading my questions
Heather
From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:46:39 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:46:39 -0700 (MST)
From: gagacha@aol.com gagacha@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season.
Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall?
Thands much for reading my questions
Heather
From adventure@inficad.com Tue Oct 3 06:00:02 2000
Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 23:00:02 -0700 (MST)
From: adventure@inficad.com adventure@inficad.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Why didn't I get fruit this year on my trees? I have an orange, grapefruit, and tangelo tree. I fertilized according to schedule but all I got were green, medium sized oranges, no grapefruit, and tiny black, hard as a rock, tangelos.
From Ayeolde@aol.com Tue Oct 3 14:19:39 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:19:39 -0700 (MST)
From: Ayeolde@aol.com Ayeolde@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
my question is concerning fruit trees. Each season my tangerine tree loaded with fruit splits and falls to the ground to the tune of 50 or 60 a day. I have an navel orange tree and grapefruit. This never happens to them. They are equally watered and fed. What is wrong with my tangerine tree. I had a arborist spray, trim & fertilize in Feb, of '99. I could use some help. It's happening again. Thank you if you respond
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 3 16:18:41 2000
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:18:41 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tulips
It is rare that tulips are much more than an annual in our outdoors, although I am sure that somewhere there is a gardener who just loves them so much that s/he does absolutely everything needed to have them bloom year after year.
Generally they are planted Nov/Dec timeframe, although NOW is the time to buy the bulbs because they do so much better with 3-4 weeks of chill in your refrigerator. Lack of winter chill is one of the reasons they don't do well if left in ground. Blooms are then anticipated mid-Feb to mid-April. [If you had a cool dark cellar, you could put them there in a container for a couple weeks and then bring back to room temps, forcing the blooms in the
pot.] Regardless of the planting calendar I just presented, the daytime temps should drop into the low 80 degree range for optimal performance.
Beds need to be prepared with plenty of organic material for drainage and the slight acidifying effect [peat helps this particularly]. Use well-composted manure only if you can wait a few weeks [one reference said six weeks] to allow for the risk of burning your bulbs to abate. Phosphate in your fertilizer is of particular assistance to blooms. If your soil is too heavy [clay] another amendment that can be beneficial is small gravel/pumice or
sand.
Planting depth is generally 2-3 times the thickness of the bulb, unless it is heavy clay, again. For tulips, the recommended depth in an old UA publication was 6-8" measured at the bulb's base. If ground critters are a problem in your area [you certainly might have run into this in the midwest as well] I believe they are sometimes planted wrapped in a loose wire mesh.
A 7-10 day watering schedule should be adequate even in full sun, as long as you are watering deeply, through the bulb zone. A lower nitrogen fertilizer, again with phosphate [e.g. ammonium phosphate 16-20-0] applied 2-3 times during the season will maintain beautiful blooms. Reduce watering after the bloom cycle and do not dig out bulbs until the foliage is completely dry and the bulbs have matured [tan/brown coat is a mature bulb; a white one
is not.].
In my experience, daffodils and iris [bulbous varieties like dutch] are hardier, have less chill requirement and can stay in the ground several years. I've never had a tulip come back. Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just that these are fussier and require more care/attention.
There used to be an old publication on Bulbs for S. Az. [Q382]. You might call the Cooperative Extension Office and ask the Master Gardener desk if it is still available.602/470-8086
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Bulb beds should be rotated to avoid nematodes.
azgogel@aol.com wrote:
> i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 3 17:08:16 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:08:16 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
----- Original Message ----- From: > i bought some tulip
bulbs that >I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I
need to plant them. Also >what other things do I need to do to them. I have
planted them in the midwest and >have had experience with tulips but this
is a new climate for me. these are for the >outdoors, or is it better to
force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force >inside? I've done
paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks
In addition to Linda's excellent advice, following is a current article
form a local garden club newsletter written by a gardener who has been
growing flowering bulbs in the Phoenix area. The article applies to the
Phoenix AZ area. -Olin
====================================
BULBS FOR SPRING BLOOMS By Bert Konzal
Now is the time to prepare your soil for bulb planting. A little
preparation now will produce healthier growth and more beautiful flowers in
spring. Bulbs like good drainage and organic matter. It’s best to spade
in about four to six inches of organic material along with a low nitrogen
fertilizer such as 5-10-10 which is rich in phosphorus and potassium.
Bulbs need phosphorus and potassium to keep them strong and healthy. Water
the area well and allow it to rest before planting your bulbs. With our
warm temperatures it is best not to rush Mother Nature. Buy bulbs as soon
as they are available and store them in a cool spot until planting time.
The largest bulbs will produce the best flowers. The following favorites
do very well in the valley:
Ranunculus and Anemone: Plant about November 1st, about two inches deep and
about 10 inches apart. Plant ranunculus with claws pointing down and
anemone with point down. Keep moist but not wet.
Daffodils or Narcissus: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and
about six to nine inches apart. Plant with pointed end up.
Dutch Iris: Plant about November 1st, about five to six inches deep and
about six to eight inches apart.
Tulips: Plant tulip bulbs about around the middle of November, but first
you must keep them in your refrigerator for six to eight weeks so they will
think they are up North. It’s best to store in paper sack, in vegetable
drawer. Plant bulbs about six inches deep and about six to nine inches
apart.
Hyacinths: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, about six to
nine inches apart. Hyacinths, like tulips, must be kept in the
refrigerator in order to have success. Hyacinths do well also in special
hyacinth water jars.
Freesia: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, and about six to
nine inches apart. Freesia, like all bulbs, like morning sun and afternoon
shade if possible.
Gladiolus; Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to
nine inches apart. Gladiolus do well with morning sun and afternoon shade.
Petals may burn in the sun especially if corms are planted in December or
January.
Asiatic Lilies: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about
twelve to fifteen inches apart. Do best when they get morning sun and
afternoon shade.
Amaryllis: Plant bulbs about November 1st to the 15th , require morning sun
and afternoon shade. Plant with about two thirds of the bulb above the
surface of the ground. The larger the bulb the bigger the flowers.
Please note that most of the above mentioned bulbs, corms, or fleshy roots
do well in containers as well as in the ground. In containers use a good
quality potting soil instead of Arizona soil.
From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:14:44 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:14:44 -0700 (MST)
From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Are you familiar with Hydro-seeding and a variety of lawn grass called "Blue-muda"? I am particularly interested in the allergy problems associated with this variety vs. a tiff hybrid grass. I am also interested in the other features of this grass. A vendor at the Landscape Show was selling hydro-seeding and uses blue-muda. I am considering having him put in my lawn, depending on what I can find out about this grass and this method of planting. Thanks.
From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:16:59 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:16:59 -0700 (MST)
From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Can you provide me with information on installing your own sprinkler system in a yard? Or is there a web site that would give instructions on how to plan and install an automatic watering system for a residential yard. Thanks.
Cindy D
From jrosen3408@aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:08:32 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 16:08:32 -0700 (MST)
From: jrosen3408@aol.com jrosen3408@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Can you please tell me when to water the desert plants and trees? Some have told me
early morning and some have told me evening. Right now we are watering in the evening. Should I change to the mornings now that fall has come? So confusing.
Also, is this the best time to prune trees or should I wait until Febuary or March?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:56 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:56 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lysiloma loosing leaves
The lysiloma tree is quite drough tolerant, however in the low desert it
requires regular adequate irrigation. The symptoms that you describe of slow
growth, yellow leaves, sparce looking, and leaves dropping are those of
inadequate water. This has been one of the hottest spring and summers in
recent times in the low desert of southern Arizona, and many people are
reporting the loss of trees and shrubs. In most cases the cause is inadequate
irrigation.
I have taken water requirements from the Sweet Acacia which has
similiar requirements to the Lysiloma. U of A Cooperative Extension bulletin
MC 53 shows that the Acacia with a 10 foot diameter crown requires between
2.9 and 4.9 gallons of water per day. ( because of the dryness and the heat
of the recent summer the higher figure should be used ). Watering on a
biweekly basis the tree requires 68.6 gallons of water.
When you deep water the water should penetrate to in excess of 3 feet
deep.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at the
following website:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:01 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:01 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning trees and shrubs
Good arborcultural practice dictates that trees and shrubs should not be cut
back more than 1/3 in one year and 15% at one time. I suspect that management
is trying to save money , and there is nothing wrong with that provided the
health of the landscape is not affected.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:03 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:03 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Blue-muda and Hydroseeding
Cindy, Blue-muda is a good improved seeded variety of common bermuda grass.
Since it is planted from seed it also grows seed and pollen. The hybrid
bermudas such as tiff are grown from sod or stolens and are nearly seedless.
The hybrids were developed to address the problems to allergy sufferers of
the seeded varieties of turf grass.
Hydroseeding is a process of applying grass seed to a prepared seed
bed in which the grass seed is mixed with water and a binder and sprayed on
to a seed bed. This process works especially well on slopes because the
binder will hold the seed in place under most conditions. The binder works
well in helping to keep the seed moist. I used hydro seeding on a sloped
area and it worked well.
In a separate email you asked about information on designing your
sprinkler system. This info could be of help to you. There are several
irrigation suppliers in the valley that will give you an irrigation system
design (free) if you buy your supplies from them and their prices are
competative with mass merchandizers. Hughes Irrigation formerly Turf
Irrigation ( three offices in the valley ) provide this service; Horizon
Irrigation is another.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:59 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:59 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lady Banks Rose, pruning
The Lady Banks Rose is a Species rose and as such requires little pruning.
Prune to keep within bounds, to remove dead and crossing canes, and a light
pruning in January if you live in the low desert.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian
From jamen2@hotmail.com Wed Oct 4 00:42:58 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:42:58 -0700 (MST)
From: jamen2@hotmail.com jamen2@hotmail.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do I keep the Bermuda grass out of my Saint Augestine grass???
Please e-mail me back. Thank you
From rabrag@aol.com Wed Oct 4 03:42:37 2000
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:42:37 -0700 (MST)
From: rabrag@aol.com rabrag@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it
and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it?
From umiller@azdps.com Wed Oct 4 11:58:27 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 04:58:27 -0700
From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow
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Some of the tiny leaves on my mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling
off. While the older leaves are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep
coming out. This normally happens in January or February when the entire
tree turns yellow and everything falls off. But it's only October and I'm
wondering what I'm doing wrong. I give it adequate water (deep watering
twice a month) and I have been feeding it 3-4 times a year. Does anybody
have any ideas?
Thanks in advance for your help --
Ursula Miller
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Some of the tiny =
leaves on my=20
mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling off. While the older =
leaves=20
are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep coming out. This =
normally=20
happens in January or February when the entire tree turns yellow and =
everything=20
falls off. But it's only October and I'm wondering what I'm doing=20
wrong. I give it adequate water (deep watering twice a month) and =
I have=20
been feeding it 3-4 times a year. Does anybody have any=20
ideas?
Thanks in =
advance for your=20
help --
=
Ursula =
Miller
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From jcaveman@aol.com Wed Oct 4 16:33:07 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 09:33:07 -0700 (MST)
From: jcaveman@aol.com jcaveman@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Three summers ago we had our grass front yard xeriscaped by a supposedly"professional". Most of the original plantings died, and the few remaining have not grown in three years! Before we replant, what steps would you recommend we do? Soil test? Push all the rocks back and till the soil? Can the surviving plants be saved?
Thank you.
From df.alston@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 4 17:08:34 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:08:34 -0700 (MST)
From: df.alston@worldnet.att.net df.alston@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I can not put a winter lawn in this fall since we are remodeling our home. Can I plant one in the spring, like in Feb.?We have St. Augustine. What are the temperature requirements for a winter lawn to start?
From Tpet1934@aol.com Wed Oct 4 18:57:07 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:57:07 -0700 (MST)
From: Tpet1934@aol.com Tpet1934@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation.
Thanks
From cambpd@cs.com Wed Oct 4 20:21:18 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:21:18 -0700 (MST)
From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I here that Texas Root Rot is a problem in the valley and yet I see plants that are listed as highly suseptable such as Texas Sage and Elm Trees almost everywhere that appear to healthy and thriving. How common is Texas Root Rot and is it more common in some parts of the valley than others.
From jsferber@aol.com Wed Oct 4 20:33:52 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:33:52 -0700 (MST)
From: jsferber@aol.com jsferber@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time.
Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected.
I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix.
From cnj1@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 20:55:55 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:55:55 -0700 (MST)
From: cnj1@uswest.net cnj1@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks.
From roarh1950@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:18:50 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:18:50 -0700 (MST)
From: roarh1950@aol.com roarh1950@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:15 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:15 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering time for trees and plants
In the low desert evening or early morning watering is recommended to
minimise the amount of water lost to evaporization. Now that the weather has
started to cool early morning watering would be preferable.
Check out the folloowing website for info on time to prune trees:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:28 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:28 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing bermuda from St Augustine
Sorry but any chemical that will kill bermuda will also kill St Augustine.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:24 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:24 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Plants dying
You haven't furnished enough info for me to give you an answer.
What are the plants that were planted?
When were they planted?
How often and how much do you water the plants?
Is there caliche in your yard?
Is your soil sand or clay?
Do you live in Maricopa county?
How much sun do they get?
Have you applied any chemicals or fertilizer, if so what?
Did you have any problems with grass before you changed to Xeroscape?
Thanks for your reply.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:40 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:40 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow
Hi Ursula, Stress can can cause a Mesquite tree to drop its leaves and we had
a really hot spell about 3 weeks ago which could have caused the leaf drop.
You mentioned deep watering, have you checked to make sure that the water is
penetrating to 3 feet plus depth? Inadequate water as you well know can cause
a leaf drop.
Good Luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 22:54:25 2000
Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 15:54:25 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening
You can visit the publication section of our website at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable where you can view a vegetable gardening calendar on-line. You can also order publication 8141
"Vegetable Gardening In Containers" from the Cooperative Extension service. Directions on how to order the publications are found at the top of the page. The publications can also be found at some library branches in
the valley. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications.
As for soil, the publication suggests that you use a prepared, light-weight mix such as an indoor plant mix or potting soil that drains well. A homemade substitute made up of equal parts of sharp coarse sand, soil and
compost or peat moss will be cheaper. A slow-release balanced fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, should be well mixed in at the rate of two ounces to each cubic foot of soil mix.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
nj1@uswest.net wrote:
> Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:37 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:37 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding bermuda grass with rye
Now is the time to start preparing your bermuda grass for overseeding by
cutting back on the water and gradually lowering the cutting height to about
1/2 inch. Planting time is when the nightime low temps are under 55 degrees
and the daytime highs are under 90 degrees.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf for all the details at
the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From bfurst@azheart.com Wed Oct 4 23:35:36 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:35:36 -0700 (MST)
From: bfurst@azheart.com bfurst@azheart.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a 6" potted pear tree in my foyer. When can I put it outside and why is it getting black edged leaves that fall off. It has new shoots and looks healthy otherwise.
From lgmsscience@yahoo.coom Wed Oct 4 23:43:22 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:43:22 -0700 (MST)
From: lgmsscience@yahoo.coom lgmsscience@yahoo.coom
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades.
From genebronski@mindspring.com Thu Oct 5 03:06:54 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 20:06:54 -0700 (MST)
From: genebronski@mindspring.com genebronski@mindspring.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
1. Whatis the frequency of watering and recommended gallonage per watering for ficus trees and California pepper trees?
2. What is the recommended frequency and gallonage per watering for the followinbg plants: hesperaloe, cape honeysuckle, torchglow bougainvillia, Little John bottlebrush, fairy dusters, dwarf oleanders, compact and natel plum?
From SBenson@dellnet.com Thu Oct 5 04:39:47 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:39:47 -0700 (MST)
From: SBenson@dellnet.com SBenson@dellnet.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Hello.
Are Fraxinus Velutina Rio Grande "Fan-Tex" trees,("Fan-Tex" here-in, always a male tree? I want as little litter as possible. Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones, in their "Plants for Dry Climates; How to Select, Grow & Enjoy" (1998)", state that for the Fraxinus Velutina, "Inconspicious flowers appear in spring before foliage comes out and bear winged fruit among the leaves of female trees in the spring (p. 99). Will I get less litter from a male Fan-Tex tree? A local nursery says it only purchases male Fan-Tex trees because the males produces less litter. If all Fan-Tex trees are male, can I buy one anywhere? Should I buy my Fan-Tex tree from a nursery that will guarantee that it is male and will produce the least amount of litter?
Thank you.
Steve Benson (SBenson@dellnet.com)
From azgogel@aol.com Thu Oct 5 04:58:42 2000
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:58:42 -0700 (MST)
From: azgogel@aol.com azgogel@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
What is the rate of coverage of rye grass for over seeding? #/sq'? and the fertilizer coverage and schedule? Thanks azgogel@aol.com
From MLabe20805@aol.com Thu Oct 5 06:53:35 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 02:53:35 EDT
From: MLabe20805@aol.com MLabe20805@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia
Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated.
5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects.
Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins.
Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects
(10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler
Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the
thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch
the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the
bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such
wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the
wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to
cause that kind of damage.
Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the
reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush?
Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com >
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:33:36 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:33:36 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vines for Full or Partial Shade
Partial Shade: Violet trumpet vine or Clytostoma callistegioides is good on a cool northern wall, with spring - summer lavender
flowers. Star jasmine or Trachelospermum jasminoides, not a true jasmine but an AZ landscape staple that is best with some sun in
the eastern/northern exposure but will tolerate full shade. Tiny star shaped white blooms in spring. Heavenly scent. Others are
native grape or Cissustrifoliata; queen's wreath or Antigonon leptopus; snail vine or Viga caracalla; and yellow morning glory or
Merremia aurea.
Deep shade: Algerian Ivy or Hedera canariensis is not for small spaces since it is a rampant grower. Creeping fig of Ficus pumila
can attach to most any surface and requires thinning to keep the vine from becoming woody and to maintain the delicate tendril
effect. English ivy or Hedera helix is more suitable for smaller spaces. Fatshedera lizei is a good container plant but needs
trellsing. Periwinkle or Vinca major is good for groundcover, under trees, covering slopes. Purple leaf wintercreeper or Euonymus
fortunei, a vine which can also be used as a groundcover.
Tpet1934@aol.com wrote:
> Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation.
>
> Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:47:02 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:47:02 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale
Pearl scale is often blamed for poor maintenance practices, but it appears that you have truly identified this as the culprit. I am attaching a missive we recently received on the listserve about the problem. One thing that
will be essential, since many lawns, even hybrid bermudas, can fend it off if given a chance, is that the lawn be very well cared for and otherwise kept healthy [good irrigation practice and fertilization, mowing properly,
etc.]. These elements are discussed below as well as management which is to (1) acidify the alkaline soil that pearl scale thrive in and (2) try an insecticide product called Merit. It may be too late to make much of a dent,
since the grass is approaching dormancy and the pest is best addressed in May, but you can give it a go and certainly will be ready to deal with it next growing season.
Good luck,
Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN
By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional,
and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture
Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for
St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are
usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown
substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than
one-sixteenth of an inch.
These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The
grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and
circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear
in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not
recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again.
In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females
emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days
the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a
hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale.
Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale.
1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area.
2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to
unaffected area.
3. Look at the roots of unaffected area.
4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their
shape.
5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed.
6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the
lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area.
Controlling scale.
Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty
equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and
garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless
they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely
rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that
applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product
Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for
treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging.
1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches
are small and manageable.
2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and
one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil.
Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may
still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them
when replacing damaged turf.
3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil,
but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very
difficult.
4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated
soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit
and then re-sod or seed the area.
5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to
be treated before applying acid mixtures.
Prevention.
Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare,
some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an
infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda
appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots
can
be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control
method but merely hides the damaged spots.
Maintenance tips:
1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt.
2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a
21-7-14 blend.
3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower
blade.
4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick.
5. Use proper soil management.
For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's
Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html
Web Site: www.westernsod.com
E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com
Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the
Lawngevity video
jsferber@aol.com wrote:
> Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time.
> Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected.
> I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:07:20 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:07:20 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Perhaps it is the cucumber mosaic virus. Has anyone suggested this possibility? Many cucumber strains are bred to increase resistance, but I understand from another recent missive on the server that infected seed can be the culprit, as well as the virus vector [insect carrier] hanging out in adjacent plant material. I regret to advise you and your students that if this is the culprit, the plants must be destroyed and your implements well cleaned; a bleach solution soak is probably advisable.
Maintaining plant health is the best defense but once the virus is present, removal and cleanliness are the key practices.
You could always take a sample to your own county's cooperative extension office, which would be affiliated with the state of Florida's land grant college [which the UA is]. http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/fl.htm Otherwise try to contact them by phone and describe your problem [government listings in the phone directory].
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County, AZ
lgmsscience@yahoo.coom wrote:
> I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:12:45 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:12:45 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potassium Salt in Irrigation Water
We wouldn't generally recommend it because of the presence of salt already in our soils and water. There are a few plants that
seem as if they just love salt, bermuda being one. Here is some input I received from one of our Instructional Specialists at the
Cooperative Extension Office:
'I think the Water Softening Companies are marketing the Potassium Salt as
"safe" to water your plants. While it is probably better than some, it is
still a salt. Deep watering every few irrigation cycles and being wary of
salt sensitive plants (we have that soft water pub that lists a bunch)
would be good practices to follow. If she has a Bermuda lawn, it will take
just about anything even evap. cooling run off without batting an eye, so
she could always direct the water to her lawn.'
The publication cited #8736 and is found at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil
Instructions for ordering it are at the top of the page.
Sorry for the delayed response.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
wmona1807@aol.com wrote:
> We have a water softner and is it O K to use potassium salt to water hedges, citrus trees, and such? We live in Sun City, Az.
From RAJ@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:22:54 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:22:54 -0700 (MST)
From: RAJ@uswest.net RAJ@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Dietes and Bowle's Mauve Wallflower have been brown for several months. How do I tell if they are dead or just resting between seasons? They were newly planted in the spring and are on the drip system.
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:24:32 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:24:32 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites in Lawn
I am by no means an expert, but since your question appears to have been
around some time, I thought I read up in our publications in an effort to
learn a little more and help you out at the same time!
It appears there are dry-wood and subterranean termites. The latter feed on
wood that is buried or in contact with the ground. Because they must
maintain contact with moist soil, they construct long tubes of dirt and
wood chips from the soil surface to places where wood is found. These tubes
are typically found around the foundation of your house, at windows and
door frames or hanging down from ceilings.
This suggests that the tubes in your lawn may not be termites.Tubes are
also found on fences and trees, because termites are a natural part of the
environment removing dead or decaying wood materials. They do not attack
living plant matter.
If you are able, you could bring a specimen and description of your problem
to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway
Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. Someone will phone you within a week usually.
We also have some publications you can order regarding termites at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects
notably MC 39, MC 40, MC 80, MC 81.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
foothill@uswest.net wrote:
> Termites in the lawn.
> I think I have termites in the back portion of my yard.
> I've little dirt tubes pop up here and there in my yard.
> When I brush them down, sometimes I see little white insects
> that look like termites. They aren't on the foundation of my house, the
> closest tube I've found is about 12 feet away from the foundation.
> Do I need to do anything about them?
>
> Thanks for any help!
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:32:05 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:32:05 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions
Generally, pesticides used for insects do not work on scorpions unless they are sprayed directly, a difficult thing to do since they are nocturnal. Also, because they don't wash themselves
and the shell is very durable, this doesn't always ensure the direct spray will work.
Best ways to control them are to make their environment inhospitable, ie remove food sources [cockroaches and crickets] and remove their preferred habitat [rock or wood piles, loose
boards, debris, old tires, etc. Please wear gloves!].
Chemical controls are, of course, available in most garden supply stores. If you must take this approach, get out the black light and direct spray if possible. I do like your thought about
torching them, which I'm adding as a footnote to our publication on the topic! Unfortunately, you will have to read the labels to see about toxicity for any human or animal life.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gmastin@primenet.com wrote:
> Dear MCCE,
> I live in the "scorpion alley" in Tempe (South Tempe-Mclintock and Warner). I have various other critters in my yard ( garden snakes, lizzards, crickets, snails,etc).
> I want to use diazion granules in the rocks to try and control the scorpions( ie. some of the food source). My conern is whether this will also sicken and kill the lizzards and snakes.
> If it is directly harmful to the others, what can I use to help with the scorpions and not the others, short of the black light and torch method?
> Thank-you,
> Gwen MAstin
From sirws@hotmail.com Thu Oct 5 17:49:03 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:49:03 -0700 (MST)
From: sirws@hotmail.com sirws@hotmail.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the
granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf
which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and
some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as
little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed
granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all?
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:41:29 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:41:29 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raising Cannas
Mike,
This from the Sunset Western Garden Book since I don't have cannas:
A tuberous rooted perennial that is native to tropics and subtropics. Likes sun and
needs heavy watering during bloom cycle. Remove faded flowers after bloom. When all
flowers have bloomed, cut stalk to the ground. Rootstocks generally planted in spring
following frost, in very rich, loose soil.
I'm sorry I don't have more information to share, and the delay of our response. With
the fall gardening season starting, the volume of questions is really rising!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
greatmfs@aol.com wrote:
> Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot.
> Thank You mike
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:49:33 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:49:33 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers
Soft bodied insects like these can be addressed with stiff jet sprays of water
or the mild soap and water method, particularly for veggies. Other options are
insecticidal soaps or the botanical insecticide neem or [this from Sunset]
dusting with DE. I don't know the impact on vegetables, so a good read of the
label will be important.
With any treatment, addressing the underside of leaves is most important. Also,
finding and treating the problem as quickly as possible.
Sprays for leaf miners will also impact the parasitic wasps that feed on them.
Next year, how about putting everything under floating row cover and perhaps
avoid the need to spray at all?
Sorry for the delayed response. Fall gardening is underway and our inbaskets
are burgeoning with questions!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Jim Bayers wrote:
> I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it.
>
> My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer
> damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of
> corn.
>
> But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was
> overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a
> leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil
> mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were
> so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged.
>
> What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> - Jim
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:57:09 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:57:09 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Money Plant - Lunaria annua (L. biennis)
The Sunset Western Garden Book does not indicate that this plant will
grow in our zone 13, even though they are said to like sun, poor soil
and little water. You'd think that we had all the ingredients here!
This is a biennial in the brassicaceae/cruciferae family [cabbage,
broccoli, etc.] which we are planting right now in our cool season
vegetable patches. So, I'd suggest that you treat them as a cool season
annual and see what will happen. I should think that full or partial
winter sun in a garden might be tolerable. Also put a few in containers
and experiment with the best location.
Remember, whatever you do, it was never meant to live more than two
seasons in the best of conditions. Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
papa-nannie@rkis.com wrote:
> Will you please give me instructions for
> trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose
> (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with
> my neighbors. your help would be appreciated.
> also will a Money plant grow here? My
> sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told
> me to soak them before planting, but I can
> find no other info on them. thank you for
> your help,
> Nena Shelton
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:03:41 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:03:41 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Black Plastic
We haven't recommended black plastic under rock mulch for years and you are
wise to further assist your landscape's water needs. Of course, plastic does
deteriorate after some years, particularly if it's been walked over. I assume
yours is still in tact?
But I've often wondered if perforating the plastic wouldn't be a short cut to
take? I've seen those spikey sandals that one dons over a pair of shoes to
aerate lawns. Mightn't something like that in the rock mulch do the trick? Or
poking the soil with another garden implement?
It is just a thought, and I'll be interested to see how my colleagues respond
to your query and my musings!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
sirws@hotmail.com wrote:
> I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the
> granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf
> which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and
> some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as
> little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed
> granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all?
>
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> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:10:03 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:10:03 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Pomegranates
The published information I have from the Family and Consumer Services area has recipes for using the pomegranates, but I couldn't find instructions for drying them. You could always
phone them at 602/470-8086, x341.
This is an autumn fruit which is harvested from September through November. Thin skin with bright color and fresh appearance are considered preferable. Taste testing is the best way to
judge their 'readiness'.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
roarh1950@aol.com wrote:
> I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:23:04 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:23:04 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jade Plant - Crassula argentea or ovata
My reference materials conflicted on the botanical name, but the photos were very similar. The jade plant is a succulent but it hails from Madagascar and South Africa. They can grow here but need overhead protection from the sun. It is often a container plant on a patio/porch area. They prefer modest amounts of water once established, which I can personally attest to having recently lost a beautiful, fast-growing
specimen [3" pot to about 18" across in less than a year] because I got too motherly with the irrigation. I didn't follow my own oft-dispensed advice of checking the moisture in the root ball and it was lost in a matter of days once it succumbed!
Use a succulent soil mix that is half grit/pumice to ensure good drainage. Sometimes you can get little pink flowers from November to April. Particularly if outside, remove the saucer so the water is not reabsorbed into the container. Infrequent watering, as already mentioned. Grows as large as the container it is in in a relatively short period of time.
I've never taken cuttings from the plant but would suggest trying a rooting hormone and placing the branch in a medium that is kept somewhat moist until roots form.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
kelarsen@primenet.com wrote:
> I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:29:32 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:29:32 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Alternatives for Pearl Scale
Our turf guru recently educated us to the fact that pearl scale is HIGHLY
overused as an excuse for failing lawns. To quote from him
"Seeded bermuda varieties are more tolerant of Pearl Scale and seem to outgrow
it as they are more vigorous growers - keep the grass un-stressed and it can
tolerate a
Pearl Scale infestation. Even the hybrid sod bermudas can tolerate most
levels of Pearl Scale as long as the other care and maintenance factors in
the lawn are up-to-speed and the grass is kept as healthy as possible. As
with most plants, keep it healthy and it can tolerate a little problem and
stay alive."
Of course, the hybrid lawns are the ones that are not allergenic.
General discussion of turf options are in the Lawn Chapter of the Master
Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ However, again to
refer to our turf specialist, bermuda remains the grass of choice in the full
sun of the low desert.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
JGibson@TriWest.com wrote:
> I am looking for alternative grasses that would handle our heat but not be
> susceptible to Pearl Scale. Any suggestions? St. Augustine? Santa Ana?
> Tiff?
>
> I was told that it only attacks Bermuda Hybrids. Is this true?
>
> Are there any other non-allergenic grasses that could work?
>
> Any assistance is appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:38:24 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:38:24 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help
If you haven't already contacted your local Cooperative Extension Office and its Master Gardener staff, you're in for a treat. Although I believe your office is in Globe, if I read the map correctly there seems to be a satellite in Payson
http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/
I hope you didn't miss their gardening conference in Payson last September!
One of our server members is a Master Gardener who lives up there, so I hope she sees this note and contacts you directly.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
Maricopa County
Carleneebr@aol.com wrote:
> This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:42:04 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:42:04 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management
We have a nice writeup on managing rabbits at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm
which includes fencing dimensions. I don't find any information regarding quail. Perhaps addressing the question to Game and Fish? There are also some references listed at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
gmgvt@aol.com wrote:
> WE are getting ready to put in a garden area at a senior residential community. WE know we need fencing to keep the rabbits out - but we don't know how high the fencing needs to be. Do we need to make it high enough to discourage quail? Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:44:10 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:44:10 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Clippings for Compost
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A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products
have been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if
you are inclined to natural or organic techniques.
Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors'
leaves for the same purpose.
Linda Guy
Master gardener
"David M. Kerr" wrote:
> It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns
> scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy
> to let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to
> get manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take
> the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some
> spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and
> oleanders in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half
> their weight and bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile.
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A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products have
been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if you
are inclined to natural or organic techniques.
Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors'
leaves for the same purpose.
Linda Guy
Master gardener
"David M. Kerr" wrote:
It
is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns
scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy
to let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch
to get manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to
take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if
you know some spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus
trees and oleanders in my front yard. In a month, they will have
lost half their weight and bulk. I will relocate them to my compost
pile.
--------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527--
From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Oct 5 19:06:57 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:06:57 -0700
From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden
My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got
another question.
I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem
is, everything did poorly.
How do I go about diagnosing the problem?
The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are
stunted.
I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I
may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It
said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I
should look for?
I'm not sure where to start.
- Jim
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:56:51 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:56:51 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden]
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Any ideas for Jim?
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Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden
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My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got
another question.
I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem
is, everything did poorly.
How do I go about diagnosing the problem?
The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are
stunted.
I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I
may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It
said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I
should look for?
I'm not sure where to start.
- Jim
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124--
From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:59:07 2000
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:59:07 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Raising Iris]
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Any iris afficinados out there who can help Mike?
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Subject: Re: Raising Iris
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Thank You for your previous information on Cannas
Would like information on Iris. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and
repot.
Thank You Mike
--------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D--
From gussiejean@earthlink.net Fri Oct 6 00:04:04 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:04:04 -0700
From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Regarding scorpians
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Regarding scorpions. Chickens and cats. :-) Chickens and cats help =
with the control of scorpions. Chickens eat them and cats kill them. =
Neither are affected by their sting. KO
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Regarding scorpions. Chickens and =
cats. :-) Chickens and cats help with the control of=20
scorpions. Chickens eat them and cats kill them. Neither are =
affected by their sting. KO
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80--
From redqueen@netzero.net Fri Oct 6 00:16:47 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:16:47 -0700 (MST)
From: redqueen@netzero.net redqueen@netzero.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I just moved from Ohio....
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:16 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:16 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye gras seed, how much to use
If you are planting annual rye the recommended rate is 10 to 20 Pounds per
1000 square feet.
For perenial rye the rate is 10 to 15 pounds per 1000 square feet.
Fertilizer should be applied starting two to three weeks after seeding at the
rate of 1/4 to 1/2 pound per 1000 square feet of actual nitrogen. Using
amonium phosphate ( 16/20/0 ) at the 1/2 pound rate you should apply 3 pounds
per 1000. This rate would apply for November, December and January. For
February and March double the previous rate. The above rates are recommended
by U. of A.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:18 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:18 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees and shrubs
Please check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the
following website:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:17 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:17 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Ash
I am told that the Fraxinus velutina ( Fantex ) is a seedless variety and as
such you shouldn't have to worry about seeds.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist.
From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Oct 6 03:07:03 2000
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:07:03 -0700
From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
With the Mexican Bird of Paradise, it helps to scarify the
seeds, then soak in water overnight before planting. To
scarify, rub the seeds with sandpaper to make it easier for
moisture to enter the seed. Or use a file at the rounded
end of the seed. Keep the medium moist until the seeds
germinates. I don't have any experience with lavender but
if the seed coat is very hard, it would require similar
treatment. -Olin
----- Original Message ----- From:
> I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted
them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have
been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered
once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender
seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I
just moved from Ohio....
From bjbennett@kna.to Fri Oct 6 12:37:44 2000
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 05:37:44 -0700 (MST)
From: bjbennett@kna.to bjbennett@kna.to
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!!
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 19:11:57 2000
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 15:11:57 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Root Rot
Yes Texas Root Rot is quiute common in the valley (Maricopa County). I have
not seen anything published about one area being any worse than others. If
you have trees that are now planted be sure to provide adequate irrigation,
but do not over water. The fungus that causes Texas Root Rot thrives in moist
and alkaline soil. If you are about to plant more trees, I would advise
planting either immune ( palm trees ) or the trees that are resistant to TRR.
U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a
bulletin onTexas Root Rot which lists the trees and shrubs that are resistant
as well as those that are susceptable, available for $1.00.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us Sat Oct 7 00:49:55 2000
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 17:49:55 -0700 (MST)
From: tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
1- What environmentally safe steps can I take in order to change my bermuda/weed infested yard into a natural desert landscape.
2- I'm considering planting one or two Chilean Mesquites on the western side of my house.
How close to the house and underground utility lines can the trees be?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 02:41:53 2000
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:41:53 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass to desert landscape
You must kill the bermuda grass before you do a desert landscape or you will
be in a worse situation than you are now.The only practical way to get rid of
bermuda is chemically unless you want to have a four foot deep hole excavated
to get rid of all the bermuda roots. then you may not have the bermuda
eliminated because the dirt that is used to fill the hole may have bermuda
roots in it
The recommended method is to kill the bermuda and weeds with a
chemical such as Roundup ( glyphosate ). If you intend to do it this fall you
must start immediately because the bermuda must be actively growing. If you
have been watering regularly and the bermuda is actively growing apply the
chemical then wait two weeks to see if you killed it all if not then apply
the chemical again. The chemical glyphosate is effective only when it hits
the grass. Once it hits the ground it is no longer effective after it dries.
If you cannot start right away then you must wait until late spring
or early summer when the bermuda is again actively growng.
The Chilean Mesquite can grow to 40 foot diameter crown so if you
want it to be away from the house then it should be planted 20 feet away.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From joegullo@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 15:53:42 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:53:42 -0700 (MST)
From: joegullo@worldnet.att.net joegullo@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How do you dry eucalyptus?
From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat Oct 7 17:49:26 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 10:49:26 -0700 (MST)
From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Is this a resting time for my euryops?? All six of them have brown tinges on the tips, but one, I'm afraid is dying, is all turning brown. Did we put too much mulch in the ground? We've turned off the drip irrigation and water them by hand every other weekend....just enough to hope the roots are watered.
Thank you.
From jmausphx@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 20:44:19 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:44:19 -0700 (MST)
From: jmausphx@worldnet.att.net jmausphx@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have what I think is an ash tree which has a number of branches that are dying. It started last spring. now half the tree has branches with dead leaves. It is in a flood irrigation yard. It didn't get a lot of water last winter due to SRP dry up and no rain. Any ideas? Thank you
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:02 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:02 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus, drying
Your question was how do you dry Eucalyptus, if you are referring to
firewood, just leave it out in the sun for about six months, it will burn
great.
Rod
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:09 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:09 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree dying
If the dead leaves are still hanging on to the branches, this is one of the
symptoms of Texas Root Rot. The only positive way to find this out is to
bring a root sample to U.of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway,
Phoenix, 85040. the Sample should be finger to thumb size and 12 inches long.
The Diagnostic Clinic meets on Friday morning, and the sample should be as
fresh as possible. If the Ash was without water for two to three months last
winter it could have become stressed to the point where it would be easy for
a pathogen to attack.
Good luck
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From annathome@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 8 02:54:07 2000
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:54:07 -0700 (MST)
From: annathome@worldnet.att.net annathome@worldnet.att.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have lost several Hibiscus plants, I think they had Texas Root Rot. Is my soil now contaminated, if I plant more hibiscus will the also get it? (The plants were 4 years old)
From TPET1934@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 18:49:58 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:49:58 -0700 (MST)
From: TPET1934@AOL.COM TPET1934@AOL.COM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
WE HAVE A BOUGAINVILLEA BUSH THAT HAS NOT PRODUCED ANY RED BRACTS, IT'S BEEN IN THE GROUND FOR OVER A YEAR AND LOOKS HEALTHY OTHER WISE.
From jbcook@erols.com Sun Oct 8 19:13:16 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:13:16 -0700 (MST)
From: jbcook@erols.com jbcook@erols.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook
From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 19:16:44 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:16:44 -0700 (MST)
From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM MADASMITH@AOL.COM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS TO LATE TO PLANT BOUGAINVILLEA. I WILL BE PLANTING IT ON THE WEST SIDE OF A BLOCK FENCE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:03 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:03 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot
If your Hibiscus did have Texas Root Rot the fungus will always be in the
soil unless you apply a chemical such as Vapam to kill the fungus. The
alternative is too plant an immune species such as agaves, Bird of Paradise,
yucca, or pampas grass. U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway,Phoenix 85040
has a bulletin titled "Root Rot in Arizona" for $1.00.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:08 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:08 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, not producing red bracts
There are two things that will reduce the bract production, the first is too
much shade, and the other is too much water. If you watered every two to
three weeks in summer once the plant is established it should be very happy.
Bougainvillea is usually well established after one year in the ground. I
have several Bougainvillea and I removed the drippers after the first year,
and they bloom their heads off.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:12 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:12 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting
It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take it
out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their roots
disturbed.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From umiller@azdps.com Sun Oct 8 21:52:10 2000
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:52:10 -0700
From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing
I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned
that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at
the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil
easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and
I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best
to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you
plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of
the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots
and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because
they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.)
Ursula Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM
To: MADASMITH@aol.com
Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting
It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take
it
out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their
roots
disturbed.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:01:37 2000
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:01:37 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purchasing MG Manual
The MG Manual and the MG Entomology Manual may be purchased from the UA in Tucson, in addition to being viewed online. Consult http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/quarterly.html
jbcook@erols.com wrote:
> Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:27:10 2000
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:27:10 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wild Tulips for Zones 9 & 10
Further to your inquiry regarding tulips in Phoenix; you might be
interested in some material that I discovered today in the McClure &
Zimmerman bulb catalog for Fall 2000. In addition to confirming our
previous advice to treat regular tulip bulbs, after a period of
refrigerator chilling [remove all fruit so that the ethylene gas does
not kill the flower embryon], as an annual, they suggested five wild
tulips that don't need a cold period to flower and that they claim
naturalize well in southern states [which doesn't mean our area
necessarily]. You can order a collection of all 5 [6 each for a total of
30 bulbs] for $15.95 plus s&h. I can't attest to how well they will do
here, but if you are interested......
Tulipa sylvestris, t. bakeri 'Lilac Wonder', t. clusiana var.
chrysantha, t. clusiana, and t. saxatalis.
http://www.mzbulb.com/
Linda
From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Oct 9 15:05:26 2000
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:05:26 -0700
From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing
The way I have prevented disturbing the root system is to dig the hole. Cut the
bottom of the pot out with a utility knife. Stick pot and plant in the hole,
and put soil all the way around the pot. Next on one side of the pot I slice
the plastic, all the way up the side with the utility knife and pull the plastic
pot out. The soil falls in around the plant, so no harm is done. This has been
very successful in all plants that I've planted. In particular roses, because
most times the soil is very loose in the rose pots, and falls off as I'm trying
to pull the rose out.
alan
Ursula Miller wrote:
> I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned
> that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at
> the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil
> easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and
> I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best
> to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you
> plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of
> the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots
> and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because
> they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.)
>
> Ursula Miller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM
> To: MADASMITH@aol.com
> Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting
>
> It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take
> it
> out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their
> roots
> disturbed.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Rod McKusick
> Master Gardener
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--
Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector
R. Alan Zelhart
CAD Software Asset Management
2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714
Tempe, Arizona 85284
Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix
Work Phone: (480) 413-3470
Home Phone: (480) 699-3977
Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037
Pager: (888) 996-9501
Fax: (480) 413-5723
"You can't create a reputation you haven't earned"
--Robert W. Galvin
From Oilybird@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 17:13:18 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:13:18 -0700 (MST)
From: Oilybird@AOL.com Oilybird@AOL.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy otherwise.
From cdavidson@az.rmci.net Mon Oct 9 17:54:17 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:54:17 -0700 (MST)
From: cdavidson@az.rmci.net cdavidson@az.rmci.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My question is on a Shamel Ash. On the south side of the trunk, there are patches where the bark is gone and a white patch remains. There is also yellow-brown sap running down that side of the trunk. I only notice one tiny hole near one area where the sap is running. The tree is about 5 years old.
From TJGaccione@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 21:46:54 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:46:54 -0700 (MST)
From: TJGaccione@AOL.com TJGaccione@AOL.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have poplar trees in our grass and around our yard. They send sucker shoots all over. My husband is afraid that the roots under the ground will grow thick and come out of the ground and ruin our whole yard. He is planning to have them removed. They are about three years old and 30-40 feet tall. Is there anything we can do to save these trees? Please help if you can. I am sick about this.
Deana Gaccione
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:01:50 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:01:50 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tangerine tree lost leaves
A dramatic change in temperature can cause citrus to drop it's leaves, but in
this case I suspect inadequate irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener
Manual chapter on irrigationat the following website:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:02:07 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:02:07 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Shamel Ash has lost bark
I suspect that what you are seeing on the Ash tree is sun burn which has
caused the bark to fall off leaving bare wood. The tree should be either
painted white or wrapped wih a material like burlap to prevent the sun burn
until the crown is wide enough to shade the trunk.The running sap is no doubt
caused by stress. Is the tree being watered adequately?
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:23:33 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:23:33 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Popular trees
The Popular trees can become vary invasive especially if grown in a grass
lawn, they can crack walks and driveways, enter your sewer or septic field
and plug them, and the roots will surface as the tree grows.
Sorry but your husband is on target on this one.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From j_l_cooper@hotmail.com Mon Oct 9 23:34:24 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 16:34:24 -0700 (MST)
From: j_l_cooper@hotmail.com j_l_cooper@hotmail.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you!
From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 10 00:14:27 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 17:14:27 -0700
From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
My grapefruit tree lost a bunch of leaves, too, during the last couple of
months probably also due to not enough watering. I think I underestimated
the damage that the unusually L-O-O-O-N-G hot summer can do. Anyway, I
finally figured it out, gave it several deep waterings and now it seems to
be doing fine -- getting lots of new, shiny green leaves. So maybe that's
all yours needs - a couple more deep waterings and the cooler weather we're
starting to have.
Ursula Miller
-----Original Message-----
From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu
[mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Oilybird@aol.com
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:13 AM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of
it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy
otherwise.
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From Bcd2533@aol.com Tue Oct 10 04:50:51 2000
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:50:51 -0700 (MST)
From: Bcd2533@aol.com Bcd2533@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
For the hot summer months my watering went as such: lawn (20 minutes, 3 times a week) and plants (2 1/2 hours (drippers), 2 times a week). What should I cut that back to in the fall and winter? Were these good for the summer months? They were recommended by a florist. Everything looks pretty decent at that watering rate. Thank you.
From saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov Tue Oct 10 12:25:28 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 05:25:28 -0700 (MST)
From: saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I live in Va. and have a palm planted in my backyard. Someone told me you have to wrap the palms in burlap for the winter. Is this right, and if so, can you tell me how to do it?
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:13 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:13 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms planted in Virginia
You didn't say what kind of palm tree you have nor what the climate is where
you live, so I'm afraid I won't be able to help you. I'm sure that the
weather conditions in Va. are quite different from Phoenix Arizona where I'm
located. Please check with your county Cooperative Extension, they will know
your local conditions and be able to answer your questions.They will be
listed in the phone book under county government.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:04 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:04 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall and winter watering
For winter watering of plants and trees in the low desert tyhe irrigation
interval should be increased 3 to 4 times from the summer watering. If you do
not over seed with rye grass and your grass is bermuda the irrigation
interval should be increased about 5 times. Do this gradually from what you
are doing now. Since you didn't tell me what your plants are I'm unable to
advise you about them.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:10:23 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:10:23 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean
I cannot find a reference to lab lob and cannot otherwise identify your plant with the
limited description. Do you have the botanical name? Have you approached the nursery from
which it was originally purchased?
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
spiessman@uswest.net wrote:
> is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:19:06 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:19:06 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher Problem?
Since the gophers that most often reside in soft soils, presumably to make it easier to tunnel, it is unlikely that this is your culprit. They are vegetarian, liking roots and bulbs in particular. Once established, they can indeed cause extensive damage to landscaping. We have a
publication on the topic, which you can order by 'clicking' on publications for Maricopa County at our website [look under insects & pests for Q403. I would provide you with a link in this message, but our server is down and I cannot access the particular page of our website at
this time.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
dickcarmi@aol.com wrote:
> I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:27:18 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:27:18 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden Barrel [Echinocactus] Offsets
My reference material suggests that mature offsets, which have begun to form their own
roots can be detached from the parent to grow in separate pots. It does not suggest a
drying period, which is often done with cuttings to form a callus and prevent rot.
Another, and probably better, resource for you would be the Desert Botanical Garden's
hotline, 10-11:30 am, M-F, 480-941-1225.
By the way, my book says that this cactus' nickname is mother-in-law's seat.
Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
rabrag@aol.com wrote:
> My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it
> and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it?
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:31:11 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:31:11 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia
I don't have specific advice for you, but if none of my colleagues has yet
replied, I invite you to bring samples to the Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension Office. There is a weekly staff/volunteer meeting to diagnosis
problems, after which someone will call you with diagnosis and management advice.
The address is 4300 block of East Broadway Road. The address for this, and a
satellite office which may be closer to you, are listed on the page of our
website where you originally placed your question. I would provide you with a
link to this site but our server is down at this time and I can't access our web
pages.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
MLabe20805@aol.com wrote:
> Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated.
> 5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects.
> Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins.
> Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects
> (10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler
> Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the
> thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch
> the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the
> bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such
> wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the
> wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to
> cause that kind of damage.
>
> Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the
> reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush?
>
> Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com >
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:36:00 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:36:00 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Moving Succulents to Colorado
Your best bet will be to contact the equivalent agency [the local county's Cooperative Extension Office] and discuss their particular climate and soil conditions. Keeping the plants in containers and moving them indoors as the weather got severe might just be your best option.
You can probably find the office on the web [if they post a site] but at least start with the Colorado State website at http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/
Good luck with your pending move.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
bjbennett@kna.to wrote:
> Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!!
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
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From obeles@gateway.net Wed Oct 11 03:43:20 2000
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:43:20 -0700
From: obeles obeles@gateway.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rotten Yucca
I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north.
(Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more
specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what
looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed
a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this
be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I
squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested
with others. Thanks for your help.
From zazasmama@home.com Wed Oct 11 07:17:55 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 00:17:55 -0700 (MST)
From: zazasmama@home.com zazasmama@home.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an
article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard.
In it it mentions that he plants dwarf
varieties of similar need citrus together.
(Two to four trees in the same, large hole)
Anyone have anymore information on this?
We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 13:55:32 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 06:55:32 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dwarf Citrus
As I recall, he was affiliated with the Rare Fruit Growers chapter here.
You might try contacting them in an effort to reach him directly.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
zazasmama@home.com wrote:
> On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an
> article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard.
> In it it mentions that he plants dwarf
> varieties of similar need citrus together.
> (Two to four trees in the same, large hole)
> Anyone have anymore information on this?
> We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:00:06 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:00:06 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rotten Yucca
The entomology chapter of the MG Manual has a single root related pest of
ornamentals, the palo verde borer. However there is an agave weevil that is also
a root feeder and can cause rot. Check our summary at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/agave-wv.htm
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
obeles wrote:
> I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north.
> (Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more
> specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what
> looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed
> a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this
> be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I
> squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested
> with others. Thanks for your help.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:02 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:02 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean]
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>From one of our server members.
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From: "Pauline Marx"
To: "Linda Guy"
References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean
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Lab Lab bean is the common name for Dolichis lablab. It is also called
Hyacinth bean or Eygyptian Bean. The pods are edible but I have no recipes
for cooking them
Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens
Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona
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From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:51 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:51 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean]
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Ditto from same server member.
Linda
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From: "Pauline Marx"
To: "Linda Guy"
References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean
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The correct name of the lablab bean plant. is DOLICHOS lablab. It is grown
for food in warm regions and as an ornamental annual elsewhere. It grows
from 10 to 30 feet. It has leaves with 3 leaflets, purple or white flowers
and velvety pods containing white and purple edible beans.
Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens
Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona
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From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:13:56 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:13:56 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Poolside Landscaping
We have an excellent publication that is available to you online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Its in the section on ornamentals.
Linda Guy
Master Gardener
j_l_cooper@hotmail.com wrote:
> I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you!
>
> _______________________________________________
> Arid_gardener mailing list
> Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:26:10 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:26:10 -0700
From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Entomology Manual
Does anyone know if the MG Entomology Manual (1994) which the UA sells
for $7, is any different than the same chapter in the MG Manual (1998)?
When using the hyperlink to the html version listed on the UA's
publication page, I got sent to the MG Manual, presumably for that
chapter.
Is there any point in purchasing it separately from the MG Manual ($36)?
Thanks!
Linda
From currens123@aol.com Wed Oct 11 15:58:37 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:58:37 -0700 (MST)
From: currens123@aol.com currens123@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Trees without thorns that will do well in Buckeye.
From birds16@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 17:02:55 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:02:55 -0700 (MST)
From: birds16@uswest.net birds16@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I think our bottle trees have root rot. They have been very healthy and are now drooping, turning yellow and loosing leaves. The area is kind of wet and from listening to a garden show it sounds like root rot. What can be done to save these trees? Thank you.
Pam
From dckelly@sedona.net Wed Oct 11 17:27:53 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:27:53 -0700 (MST)
From: dckelly@sedona.net dckelly@sedona.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Should your fertilize native plants such as salvia greggii. If so, what kind of fertilizer?
From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 22:31:04 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:31:04 -0700
From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival
Subject: Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival!
I wanted to let you know about the first annual Gilbert
Community Garden Pumpkin Festival, coming October 21st.
It will be held at the site of the Gilbert community garden
(called Cooley Heritage Community Garden), on the SE corner
of Gilbert Rd & Elliot Rd. The hours will be around 8-5 (or
later?) Saturday October 21, although some pumpkins may be
available for sale the previous Friday afternoon.
This event allows the community garden plot owners to
raise money to grow all their goodies! Some participants
include the Boys & Girls Club, the YMCA, Kiwanis, and
Gilbert Elementary schools. The MG Program will also have a
presence at the festival.
The festival is planning to include pumpkins for sale and
carving, the local farmer's market, bake sales & other food
vendors, etc. Also, Gilbert Elementary will hold a fun
house for the younger kids, which will go great with the
face painting and pumpkin photo ops! In addition, swing
dancers are planned in attendance late afternoon on
Saturday.
This is a great chance to both help out our brand new
community garden, and have lots of fun!
Also, there are additional booth spots available for
organizations interested in a presence at the
festival...AND there are still some plots available for
groups and individuals to participate in the
community garden.
So collect your friends and family, and come have a great
time!
Maeve Dion
MG Intern
maevedion@yahoo.com
=====
Maeve Dion
maevedion@yahoo.com
From bobbsorg@email.msn.com Wed Oct 11 23:43:40 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:43:40 -0700 (MST)
From: bobbsorg@email.msn.com bobbsorg@email.msn.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
I am trying to find out when to plant herbs outside. I have some planted inside and want to transplant them. Also, can they be planted directly outside in full sun???
I had a lavendar plant that was planted for months -- went through more than half of the summer and then died. What did I do wrong? Actually, what should I have done to keep it alive.
Any tips on herbs would be helfpul.
Is there a natural way to get rid of insects on plants?
Are there are grants available re: natural insect control -- both on plants and in homes -- who would I need to contact on this??
Thank you in advance for your help.
From dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com Thu Oct 12 04:04:31 2000
Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:04:31 -0700 (MST)
From: dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
my sister recently planted verigated privets in front of green pittisporum...the privets are apprx. 2 feet tall...the pitts are the same height...question: how much can she take off from the height of the privets and also how can she promote growth at the base of the privets ?..she is in houston tx...so has a usually warm winter...need prunning instructions as we are novices....thanx...
From cambpd@cs.com Thu Oct 12 14:48:24 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:48:24 -0700 (MST)
From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
How can you tell the difference between the Southern Live Oak (Quercus Virginiana)and the Heritage veriety of Q. Virginiana in young nursury plants. Is there a noticable difference in the leaves. Also, I have read that the Heritage vartiety is best for the low desert areas (Phoenix). Why is that and what is the difference in the growth habits that make the Heritage better for this area. Are the differences significant? The Heritage variety is hard to find. Most nursuries don't have it while others either don't know of it or claim it is the same as other Southern Live Oaks. Thanks.
From patriots@intermind.net Thu Oct 12 15:23:54 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:23:54 -0700 (MST)
From: patriots@intermind.net patriots@intermind.net
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
can bores attack chil. mesquite trees
what is the treatment
thank you sean
From kathygeb@home.com Thu Oct 12 16:18:58 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:18:58 -0700 (MST)
From: kathygeb@home.com kathygeb@home.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Meyer's lemon tree is loosing leaves on same branch. Lost seven leaves in one night. Leaves are still green, no apparent reason. Could you please tell me what the problem could be?
From saz621@primenet.com Thu Oct 12 18:04:55 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:04:55 -0700
From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Heritage oak
Quercus virginiana the southern live oak has a very large range that extends in Texas from the Gulf of Mexico coast through the southern half of the state and on into the arid western region, known ludicrously as West Texas. The most western populations are often known as Quercus fusiformis, a point on which wise people have no opinion. 'Heritage' is a form that was found, saved, and whose seedlings have been sold with that name for many years. It is generally more heat tolerant than many live oaks, a bit more upright in form, although there is so much variation. In what is known as the
Hill Country of Texas where soils are thin, underlain with limestone and therefore very alkaline, and live oaks are abundant, their progeny can do well here and they might be called southern live oak, hill country live oak, 'Heritage' oak, or Quercus fusiformis. So, it is very difficult to tell 'Heritage' without a tag saying so. More recently growers of this selection are attempting to grow it from cuttings so that it will be a bit more uniform.
Good luck,
Mary Irish
From theazhalls@juno.com Thu Oct 12 18:01:28 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:01:28 -0700 (MST)
From: theazhalls@juno.com theazhalls@juno.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Sorry for the long post. I have a willow acacia about 25 ft high. I have myoporum as a ground cover but it's not doing well, I assume because of the shade. The acacia is heaving the ground up to eight inches around the trunk, and shoots runners as far out as twice the crown diameter, which I'm afraid will eventually choke my nearby palo brea.
It's hard to clean the myoporum without damaging it. I'd like to plant a shade tolerant grass underneath the tree. My thinking is I can runover the leaf drop and the runners with the lawn mower. Is there a suitable grass for this? Also, can I knock down or rototill some of the heaved dirt and root without the tree falling over?
I'm open to alternative suggestions. Thanks.
From weimeraa@aol.com Thu Oct 12 18:31:41 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:31:41 -0700 (MST)
From: weimeraa@aol.com weimeraa@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
We have moved to Sun City. Everything I have planted has been eaten by the rabbits! Do you have any suggestions for herbs and flowers that the rabbits will not eat?
Thank you for any help you are able to offer.
From pllawrence@hotmail.com Thu Oct 12 19:42:18 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:42:18 -0700 (MST)
From: pllawrence@hotmail.com pllawrence@hotmail.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
Is there anything that can be done to stop or curb production of seed pods on ash trees? They are very messay and attract birds.
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:12 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:12 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash trees, preenting seeds
Sorry but there is no way to prevent the seeds from forming on an Ash tree.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:03 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:03 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Borers attacking Mesquite tree
Sean, Yes borers can attack the Mesquite tree. Unfortunately there is no
treatment. The best thing you can do is to keep the tree as healthy as
possible with deep water irrigation and some fertilizer.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:08:03 2000
Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:08:03 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle trees loosing leaves
Pam, I suspect that the problem with your bottle trees is too much water
since you said that the area was wet.
One of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot is that the leaves turn brown very
quickly and hang on to the tree. This doesn't mean that your tree doesn't
have TRR , it is still posible but not likely. Whereas the yellow dropping
leaves is indictive of too much water.
You can determine if TRR is present by taking a root sample to the U.
of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an
examination. Dig up roots finger to thumb size about 12 inches long. A
diagnostic clinic meets every Friday morning. you do not have to be there,
but the fresher the sample the better the chance of identifying the problem.
If you do take the root sample to the Extension please take a copy of this
email with you.
Good luck.
Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Oct 13 14:29:59 2000
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:29:59 EDT
From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo
I have the opportunity next week to dig up and plant in my desert yard 5 huge
ocotillo plants from a lot that is being scraped off. I remember that you
had directions recently to do this successfully. Can you send them again? I
didn't save them. thx B
From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 13 22:08:06 2000
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:08:06 EDT
From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree problems
I neglected to include one other problem that coul