From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 21:39:52 2000 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:39:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: SEPTIC TANK Plantings I'm sorry Ella, but I don't know of a good resource for you at this time. May I suggest that you call one of my Master Gardener colleagues at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension for their advice? They are also volunteers, but they are on site with a number of the University staff and sometimes get better information that I have working from home.The phone number is on the same page as the one where you originally posted this question, 602/470-8086 if my memory is good today. It also lists our satellite offices, also staffed by MG volunteers. The nearest one could also be of assistance to you. I'd provide you the exact hyperlink, but the university's server appears to be down and I can't access it directly at this moment. Go to ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/ for the home page and at the end of the list will be the function for asking a question. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Linda Ella Mardick wrote: > We have an active system. The area that we live in, everyone is on a > septic system. Where would one check information on what can be planted > near a septic tank & leach beds. I appreciate your help. > > At 03:01 PM 9/26/00 -0700, you wrote: > >[Being resent do to last week's server problems.] > > > >I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the > >additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most > >honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field > >have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my > >experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes! > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >Ella Mardick wrote: > > > >> Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? > > From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 22:10:45 2000 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 15:10:45 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rhubarb anyone? I have been fueling a resurrected passion for cooking by volunteering at culinary classes at a well-known local kitchen gadgets store. [hint: This Saturday I spent three hours at the sink pictured behind chef Susan Schopp in last Wednesday's cooking section feature!] This week's class on pies was presented by the store's owner and as we exchanged stories about our best pies over the years, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that our mutual favorite was plain, unadulterated rhubarb [plenty of sugar, of course]. This Manitoba farm-girl [the owner, not me] would dearly love to grow a stand of rhubarb and beseeched me to contact all of you in an effort to secure any tricks at all to aid in this effort. Container growing is an option. I told her that I'd researched it once upon a time some years ago and had decided that it wasn't quite but perhaps close to hopeless, since in 'normal' circumstances [like where we each grew up] there was substantial winter chilling and longer cool springs. Also that I suspected that any chance would be augmented by planting now and treating this as an annual. [I'd also been told something similar about artichokes, and have NO problem growing these however!] She' been baking pies since age 8 and used to make as many as a dozen daily during threshing season. She makes a mean pie and she means business! Any hints, success stories, things to avoid, would be appreciated. Linda From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 2 00:36:38 2000 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:36:38 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm plant with yellow leave tips It is difficult to answer your question about yellow leaves on your palm plant without knowing what Palm plant you have. Lack of fertilizer could be the cause of yellow leaves. Palms should be fertilized 3 or 4 times a year with a special palm fertilizer. I'm not familiar with the vitamins to which you refer. Check out this website for more info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dmkerr@dancris.com Mon Oct 2 01:07:07 2000 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:07:07 -0700 From: David M. Kerr dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns = scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy to = let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to get = manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take the = cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some = spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and oleanders = in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half their weight and = bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It is prime time for composters.  = My neighbors=20 are having their lawns scalped and dethatched for winter lawns.  I = find the=20 gardeners happy to let me take the cuttings.  It is less work than = going to=20 a ranch to get manure for me.  It saves the gardeners the time and=20 gas to take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee.  It = helps=20 if  you know some spanish.  I keep the cuttings in piles under = citrus=20 trees and oleanders in my front yard.  In a month, they = will have lost=20 half their weight and bulk.  I will relocate them to my compost=20 pile.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140-- From celtic_2@netzero.net Mon Oct 2 17:01:43 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 10:01:43 -0700 (MST) From: celtic_2@netzero.net celtic_2@netzero.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When should I plant rye grass? Is it necessary to cut my bermuda close to the ground before applying the rye seed? And how much water and fertilizer does rye need? From wbelisle@speedchoice.com Mon Oct 2 20:38:15 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:38:15 -0700 (MST) From: wbelisle@speedchoice.com wbelisle@speedchoice.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a lady banks rose that has been pruned as a shrub for many years. It is extremely large 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Should it be pruned like a climbing rose and when should I do it???? From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Oct 2 20:44:22 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:44:22 -0700 (MST) From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our condo association changed landscapers last year and altho the Pres. insists they know what they'll doing, I'm not convinced. He feels that it is necessary to cut down the bushes (Oleander, the orange ones native to Africa, etc)to within 12 inches under the guise that they will "grow back stronger" - well, what has been cut back has certainlygrown back - but NOT stronger - I wish I knew their name, but the "orange bloomed ones from Africa" are now 8 - 10 ft high. very flimsy and wafting in the breezes. Another noticeable difference since his arrival is that all the "suckers" (small branches sprouting from main branches) have been left on all the trees (very noticeable on the African pepper trees - almost reaching the driveways) Not only do our pretty trees like like heck but isn't it UNHEALTY for them?? Doesn't it sap their strength?? i've never seen this left like this before,except in cases of neglect. Our condo corp.has over 100 units and the Pres. has clearly advised that he is very supportive of this new "expert". Before we band together to make a complain, we thought we should check with the real experts so that we could offer a remedy at the same time..I'm no gardener and I know we haven't been very specific about the bushes and trees, so if more infor is required,we will find the proper names...Thanking you in advance... From spiessman@uswest.net Mon Oct 2 22:33:23 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:33:23 -0700 (MST) From: spiessman@uswest.net spiessman@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible. From azgogel@aol.com Mon Oct 2 22:47:34 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:47:34 -0700 (MST) From: azgogel@aol.com azgogel@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks From lyshogan@aol.com Mon Oct 2 23:15:59 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:15:59 -0700 (MST) From: lyshogan@aol.com lyshogan@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My lysiloma trees are growing slowly, look sparse and have yellowing leaves. I fertilized and deep watered last week and now one of the trees is losing its leaves. The trees are about 5 years old. Prior to this, I was watering every 2-4 weeks for three hours on a drip (equates to about 20-25 gallons of water). Thank you. From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:45:49 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:45:49 -0700 (MST) From: gagacha@aol.com gagacha@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? Thands much for reading my questions Heather From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:46:39 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:46:39 -0700 (MST) From: gagacha@aol.com gagacha@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? Thands much for reading my questions Heather From adventure@inficad.com Tue Oct 3 06:00:02 2000 Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 23:00:02 -0700 (MST) From: adventure@inficad.com adventure@inficad.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why didn't I get fruit this year on my trees? I have an orange, grapefruit, and tangelo tree. I fertilized according to schedule but all I got were green, medium sized oranges, no grapefruit, and tiny black, hard as a rock, tangelos. From Ayeolde@aol.com Tue Oct 3 14:19:39 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:19:39 -0700 (MST) From: Ayeolde@aol.com Ayeolde@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my question is concerning fruit trees. Each season my tangerine tree loaded with fruit splits and falls to the ground to the tune of 50 or 60 a day. I have an navel orange tree and grapefruit. This never happens to them. They are equally watered and fed. What is wrong with my tangerine tree. I had a arborist spray, trim & fertilize in Feb, of '99. I could use some help. It's happening again. Thank you if you respond From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 3 16:18:41 2000 Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:18:41 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tulips It is rare that tulips are much more than an annual in our outdoors, although I am sure that somewhere there is a gardener who just loves them so much that s/he does absolutely everything needed to have them bloom year after year. Generally they are planted Nov/Dec timeframe, although NOW is the time to buy the bulbs because they do so much better with 3-4 weeks of chill in your refrigerator. Lack of winter chill is one of the reasons they don't do well if left in ground. Blooms are then anticipated mid-Feb to mid-April. [If you had a cool dark cellar, you could put them there in a container for a couple weeks and then bring back to room temps, forcing the blooms in the pot.] Regardless of the planting calendar I just presented, the daytime temps should drop into the low 80 degree range for optimal performance. Beds need to be prepared with plenty of organic material for drainage and the slight acidifying effect [peat helps this particularly]. Use well-composted manure only if you can wait a few weeks [one reference said six weeks] to allow for the risk of burning your bulbs to abate. Phosphate in your fertilizer is of particular assistance to blooms. If your soil is too heavy [clay] another amendment that can be beneficial is small gravel/pumice or sand. Planting depth is generally 2-3 times the thickness of the bulb, unless it is heavy clay, again. For tulips, the recommended depth in an old UA publication was 6-8" measured at the bulb's base. If ground critters are a problem in your area [you certainly might have run into this in the midwest as well] I believe they are sometimes planted wrapped in a loose wire mesh. A 7-10 day watering schedule should be adequate even in full sun, as long as you are watering deeply, through the bulb zone. A lower nitrogen fertilizer, again with phosphate [e.g. ammonium phosphate 16-20-0] applied 2-3 times during the season will maintain beautiful blooms. Reduce watering after the bloom cycle and do not dig out bulbs until the foliage is completely dry and the bulbs have matured [tan/brown coat is a mature bulb; a white one is not.]. In my experience, daffodils and iris [bulbous varieties like dutch] are hardier, have less chill requirement and can stay in the ground several years. I've never had a tulip come back. Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just that these are fussier and require more care/attention. There used to be an old publication on Bulbs for S. Az. [Q382]. You might call the Cooperative Extension Office and ask the Master Gardener desk if it is still available.602/470-8086 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Bulb beds should be rotated to avoid nematodes. azgogel@aol.com wrote: > i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 3 17:08:16 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 10:08:16 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ----- Original Message ----- From: > i bought some tulip bulbs that >I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also >what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and >have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the >outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force >inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks In addition to Linda's excellent advice, following is a current article form a local garden club newsletter written by a gardener who has been growing flowering bulbs in the Phoenix area. The article applies to the Phoenix AZ area. -Olin ==================================== BULBS FOR SPRING BLOOMS By Bert Konzal Now is the time to prepare your soil for bulb planting. A little preparation now will produce healthier growth and more beautiful flowers in spring. Bulbs like good drainage and organic matter. It’s best to spade in about four to six inches of organic material along with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 which is rich in phosphorus and potassium. Bulbs need phosphorus and potassium to keep them strong and healthy. Water the area well and allow it to rest before planting your bulbs. With our warm temperatures it is best not to rush Mother Nature. Buy bulbs as soon as they are available and store them in a cool spot until planting time. The largest bulbs will produce the best flowers. The following favorites do very well in the valley: Ranunculus and Anemone: Plant about November 1st, about two inches deep and about 10 inches apart. Plant ranunculus with claws pointing down and anemone with point down. Keep moist but not wet. Daffodils or Narcissus: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Plant with pointed end up. Dutch Iris: Plant about November 1st, about five to six inches deep and about six to eight inches apart. Tulips: Plant tulip bulbs about around the middle of November, but first you must keep them in your refrigerator for six to eight weeks so they will think they are up North. It’s best to store in paper sack, in vegetable drawer. Plant bulbs about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths, like tulips, must be kept in the refrigerator in order to have success. Hyacinths do well also in special hyacinth water jars. Freesia: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, and about six to nine inches apart. Freesia, like all bulbs, like morning sun and afternoon shade if possible. Gladiolus; Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Gladiolus do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Petals may burn in the sun especially if corms are planted in December or January. Asiatic Lilies: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about twelve to fifteen inches apart. Do best when they get morning sun and afternoon shade. Amaryllis: Plant bulbs about November 1st to the 15th , require morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant with about two thirds of the bulb above the surface of the ground. The larger the bulb the bigger the flowers. Please note that most of the above mentioned bulbs, corms, or fleshy roots do well in containers as well as in the ground. In containers use a good quality potting soil instead of Arizona soil. From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:14:44 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:14:44 -0700 (MST) From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are you familiar with Hydro-seeding and a variety of lawn grass called "Blue-muda"? I am particularly interested in the allergy problems associated with this variety vs. a tiff hybrid grass. I am also interested in the other features of this grass. A vendor at the Landscape Show was selling hydro-seeding and uses blue-muda. I am considering having him put in my lawn, depending on what I can find out about this grass and this method of planting. Thanks. From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:16:59 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:16:59 -0700 (MST) From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you provide me with information on installing your own sprinkler system in a yard? Or is there a web site that would give instructions on how to plan and install an automatic watering system for a residential yard. Thanks. Cindy D From jrosen3408@aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:08:32 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 16:08:32 -0700 (MST) From: jrosen3408@aol.com jrosen3408@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you please tell me when to water the desert plants and trees? Some have told me early morning and some have told me evening. Right now we are watering in the evening. Should I change to the mornings now that fall has come? So confusing. Also, is this the best time to prune trees or should I wait until Febuary or March? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:56 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:56 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lysiloma loosing leaves The lysiloma tree is quite drough tolerant, however in the low desert it requires regular adequate irrigation. The symptoms that you describe of slow growth, yellow leaves, sparce looking, and leaves dropping are those of inadequate water. This has been one of the hottest spring and summers in recent times in the low desert of southern Arizona, and many people are reporting the loss of trees and shrubs. In most cases the cause is inadequate irrigation. I have taken water requirements from the Sweet Acacia which has similiar requirements to the Lysiloma. U of A Cooperative Extension bulletin MC 53 shows that the Acacia with a 10 foot diameter crown requires between 2.9 and 4.9 gallons of water per day. ( because of the dryness and the heat of the recent summer the higher figure should be used ). Watering on a biweekly basis the tree requires 68.6 gallons of water. When you deep water the water should penetrate to in excess of 3 feet deep. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:01 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:01 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning trees and shrubs Good arborcultural practice dictates that trees and shrubs should not be cut back more than 1/3 in one year and 15% at one time. I suspect that management is trying to save money , and there is nothing wrong with that provided the health of the landscape is not affected. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:03 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Blue-muda and Hydroseeding Cindy, Blue-muda is a good improved seeded variety of common bermuda grass. Since it is planted from seed it also grows seed and pollen. The hybrid bermudas such as tiff are grown from sod or stolens and are nearly seedless. The hybrids were developed to address the problems to allergy sufferers of the seeded varieties of turf grass. Hydroseeding is a process of applying grass seed to a prepared seed bed in which the grass seed is mixed with water and a binder and sprayed on to a seed bed. This process works especially well on slopes because the binder will hold the seed in place under most conditions. The binder works well in helping to keep the seed moist. I used hydro seeding on a sloped area and it worked well. In a separate email you asked about information on designing your sprinkler system. This info could be of help to you. There are several irrigation suppliers in the valley that will give you an irrigation system design (free) if you buy your supplies from them and their prices are competative with mass merchandizers. Hughes Irrigation formerly Turf Irrigation ( three offices in the valley ) provide this service; Horizon Irrigation is another. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:59 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lady Banks Rose, pruning The Lady Banks Rose is a Species rose and as such requires little pruning. Prune to keep within bounds, to remove dead and crossing canes, and a light pruning in January if you live in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From jamen2@hotmail.com Wed Oct 4 00:42:58 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:42:58 -0700 (MST) From: jamen2@hotmail.com jamen2@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I keep the Bermuda grass out of my Saint Augestine grass??? Please e-mail me back. Thank you From rabrag@aol.com Wed Oct 4 03:42:37 2000 Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:42:37 -0700 (MST) From: rabrag@aol.com rabrag@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it? From umiller@azdps.com Wed Oct 4 11:58:27 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 04:58:27 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some of the tiny leaves on my mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling off. While the older leaves are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep coming out. This normally happens in January or February when the entire tree turns yellow and everything falls off. But it's only October and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. I give it adequate water (deep watering twice a month) and I have been feeding it 3-4 times a year. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help -- Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Some of the tiny = leaves on my=20 mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling off.  While the older = leaves=20 are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep coming out.  This = normally=20 happens in January or February when the entire tree turns yellow and = everything=20 falls off.  But it's only October and I'm wondering what I'm doing=20 wrong.  I give it adequate water (deep watering twice a month) and = I have=20 been feeding it 3-4 times a year.  Does anybody have any=20 ideas?
 
Thanks in = advance for your=20 help --
  =
Ursula = Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0-- From jcaveman@aol.com Wed Oct 4 16:33:07 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 09:33:07 -0700 (MST) From: jcaveman@aol.com jcaveman@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Three summers ago we had our grass front yard xeriscaped by a supposedly"professional". Most of the original plantings died, and the few remaining have not grown in three years! Before we replant, what steps would you recommend we do? Soil test? Push all the rocks back and till the soil? Can the surviving plants be saved? Thank you. From df.alston@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 4 17:08:34 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:08:34 -0700 (MST) From: df.alston@worldnet.att.net df.alston@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I can not put a winter lawn in this fall since we are remodeling our home. Can I plant one in the spring, like in Feb.?We have St. Augustine. What are the temperature requirements for a winter lawn to start? From Tpet1934@aol.com Wed Oct 4 18:57:07 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:57:07 -0700 (MST) From: Tpet1934@aol.com Tpet1934@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation. Thanks From cambpd@cs.com Wed Oct 4 20:21:18 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:21:18 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I here that Texas Root Rot is a problem in the valley and yet I see plants that are listed as highly suseptable such as Texas Sage and Elm Trees almost everywhere that appear to healthy and thriving. How common is Texas Root Rot and is it more common in some parts of the valley than others. From jsferber@aol.com Wed Oct 4 20:33:52 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:33:52 -0700 (MST) From: jsferber@aol.com jsferber@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time. Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected. I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix. From cnj1@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 20:55:55 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:55:55 -0700 (MST) From: cnj1@uswest.net cnj1@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks. From roarh1950@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:18:50 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:18:50 -0700 (MST) From: roarh1950@aol.com roarh1950@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:15 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering time for trees and plants In the low desert evening or early morning watering is recommended to minimise the amount of water lost to evaporization. Now that the weather has started to cool early morning watering would be preferable. Check out the folloowing website for info on time to prune trees: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:28 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:28 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing bermuda from St Augustine Sorry but any chemical that will kill bermuda will also kill St Augustine. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:24 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:24 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Plants dying You haven't furnished enough info for me to give you an answer. What are the plants that were planted? When were they planted? How often and how much do you water the plants? Is there caliche in your yard? Is your soil sand or clay? Do you live in Maricopa county? How much sun do they get? Have you applied any chemicals or fertilizer, if so what? Did you have any problems with grass before you changed to Xeroscape? Thanks for your reply. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:40 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:40 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow Hi Ursula, Stress can can cause a Mesquite tree to drop its leaves and we had a really hot spell about 3 weeks ago which could have caused the leaf drop. You mentioned deep watering, have you checked to make sure that the water is penetrating to 3 feet plus depth? Inadequate water as you well know can cause a leaf drop. Good Luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 22:54:25 2000 Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 15:54:25 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening You can visit the publication section of our website at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable where you can view a vegetable gardening calendar on-line. You can also order publication 8141 "Vegetable Gardening In Containers" from the Cooperative Extension service. Directions on how to order the publications are found at the top of the page. The publications can also be found at some library branches in the valley. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. As for soil, the publication suggests that you use a prepared, light-weight mix such as an indoor plant mix or potting soil that drains well. A homemade substitute made up of equal parts of sharp coarse sand, soil and compost or peat moss will be cheaper. A slow-release balanced fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, should be well mixed in at the rate of two ounces to each cubic foot of soil mix. Sue Bass Master Gardener nj1@uswest.net wrote: > Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:37 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:37 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding bermuda grass with rye Now is the time to start preparing your bermuda grass for overseeding by cutting back on the water and gradually lowering the cutting height to about 1/2 inch. Planting time is when the nightime low temps are under 55 degrees and the daytime highs are under 90 degrees. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf for all the details at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From bfurst@azheart.com Wed Oct 4 23:35:36 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:35:36 -0700 (MST) From: bfurst@azheart.com bfurst@azheart.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 6" potted pear tree in my foyer. When can I put it outside and why is it getting black edged leaves that fall off. It has new shoots and looks healthy otherwise. From lgmsscience@yahoo.coom Wed Oct 4 23:43:22 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:43:22 -0700 (MST) From: lgmsscience@yahoo.coom lgmsscience@yahoo.coom Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades. From genebronski@mindspring.com Thu Oct 5 03:06:54 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 20:06:54 -0700 (MST) From: genebronski@mindspring.com genebronski@mindspring.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1. Whatis the frequency of watering and recommended gallonage per watering for ficus trees and California pepper trees? 2. What is the recommended frequency and gallonage per watering for the followinbg plants: hesperaloe, cape honeysuckle, torchglow bougainvillia, Little John bottlebrush, fairy dusters, dwarf oleanders, compact and natel plum? From SBenson@dellnet.com Thu Oct 5 04:39:47 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:39:47 -0700 (MST) From: SBenson@dellnet.com SBenson@dellnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello. Are Fraxinus Velutina Rio Grande "Fan-Tex" trees,("Fan-Tex" here-in, always a male tree? I want as little litter as possible. Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones, in their "Plants for Dry Climates; How to Select, Grow & Enjoy" (1998)", state that for the Fraxinus Velutina, "Inconspicious flowers appear in spring before foliage comes out and bear winged fruit among the leaves of female trees in the spring (p. 99). Will I get less litter from a male Fan-Tex tree? A local nursery says it only purchases male Fan-Tex trees because the males produces less litter. If all Fan-Tex trees are male, can I buy one anywhere? Should I buy my Fan-Tex tree from a nursery that will guarantee that it is male and will produce the least amount of litter? Thank you. Steve Benson (SBenson@dellnet.com) From azgogel@aol.com Thu Oct 5 04:58:42 2000 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:58:42 -0700 (MST) From: azgogel@aol.com azgogel@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the rate of coverage of rye grass for over seeding? #/sq'? and the fertilizer coverage and schedule? Thanks azgogel@aol.com From MLabe20805@aol.com Thu Oct 5 06:53:35 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 02:53:35 EDT From: MLabe20805@aol.com MLabe20805@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated. 5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects. Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins. Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects (10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to cause that kind of damage. Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush? Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com > From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:33:36 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:33:36 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vines for Full or Partial Shade Partial Shade: Violet trumpet vine or Clytostoma callistegioides is good on a cool northern wall, with spring - summer lavender flowers. Star jasmine or Trachelospermum jasminoides, not a true jasmine but an AZ landscape staple that is best with some sun in the eastern/northern exposure but will tolerate full shade. Tiny star shaped white blooms in spring. Heavenly scent. Others are native grape or Cissustrifoliata; queen's wreath or Antigonon leptopus; snail vine or Viga caracalla; and yellow morning glory or Merremia aurea. Deep shade: Algerian Ivy or Hedera canariensis is not for small spaces since it is a rampant grower. Creeping fig of Ficus pumila can attach to most any surface and requires thinning to keep the vine from becoming woody and to maintain the delicate tendril effect. English ivy or Hedera helix is more suitable for smaller spaces. Fatshedera lizei is a good container plant but needs trellsing. Periwinkle or Vinca major is good for groundcover, under trees, covering slopes. Purple leaf wintercreeper or Euonymus fortunei, a vine which can also be used as a groundcover. Tpet1934@aol.com wrote: > Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:47:02 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:47:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Pearl scale is often blamed for poor maintenance practices, but it appears that you have truly identified this as the culprit. I am attaching a missive we recently received on the listserve about the problem. One thing that will be essential, since many lawns, even hybrid bermudas, can fend it off if given a chance, is that the lawn be very well cared for and otherwise kept healthy [good irrigation practice and fertilization, mowing properly, etc.]. These elements are discussed below as well as management which is to (1) acidify the alkaline soil that pearl scale thrive in and (2) try an insecticide product called Merit. It may be too late to make much of a dent, since the grass is approaching dormancy and the pest is best addressed in May, but you can give it a go and certainly will be ready to deal with it next growing season. Good luck, Linda Guy, Master Gardener PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video jsferber@aol.com wrote: > Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time. > Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected. > I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:07:20 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:07:20 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cucumber Mosaic Virus Perhaps it is the cucumber mosaic virus. Has anyone suggested this possibility? Many cucumber strains are bred to increase resistance, but I understand from another recent missive on the server that infected seed can be the culprit, as well as the virus vector [insect carrier] hanging out in adjacent plant material. I regret to advise you and your students that if this is the culprit, the plants must be destroyed and your implements well cleaned; a bleach solution soak is probably advisable. Maintaining plant health is the best defense but once the virus is present, removal and cleanliness are the key practices. You could always take a sample to your own county's cooperative extension office, which would be affiliated with the state of Florida's land grant college [which the UA is]. http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/fl.htm Otherwise try to contact them by phone and describe your problem [government listings in the phone directory]. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County, AZ lgmsscience@yahoo.coom wrote: > I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:12:45 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:12:45 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potassium Salt in Irrigation Water We wouldn't generally recommend it because of the presence of salt already in our soils and water. There are a few plants that seem as if they just love salt, bermuda being one. Here is some input I received from one of our Instructional Specialists at the Cooperative Extension Office: 'I think the Water Softening Companies are marketing the Potassium Salt as "safe" to water your plants. While it is probably better than some, it is still a salt. Deep watering every few irrigation cycles and being wary of salt sensitive plants (we have that soft water pub that lists a bunch) would be good practices to follow. If she has a Bermuda lawn, it will take just about anything even evap. cooling run off without batting an eye, so she could always direct the water to her lawn.' The publication cited #8736 and is found at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil Instructions for ordering it are at the top of the page. Sorry for the delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener wmona1807@aol.com wrote: > We have a water softner and is it O K to use potassium salt to water hedges, citrus trees, and such? We live in Sun City, Az. From RAJ@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:22:54 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:22:54 -0700 (MST) From: RAJ@uswest.net RAJ@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Dietes and Bowle's Mauve Wallflower have been brown for several months. How do I tell if they are dead or just resting between seasons? They were newly planted in the spring and are on the drip system. From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:24:32 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:24:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites in Lawn I am by no means an expert, but since your question appears to have been around some time, I thought I read up in our publications in an effort to learn a little more and help you out at the same time! It appears there are dry-wood and subterranean termites. The latter feed on wood that is buried or in contact with the ground. Because they must maintain contact with moist soil, they construct long tubes of dirt and wood chips from the soil surface to places where wood is found. These tubes are typically found around the foundation of your house, at windows and door frames or hanging down from ceilings. This suggests that the tubes in your lawn may not be termites.Tubes are also found on fences and trees, because termites are a natural part of the environment removing dead or decaying wood materials. They do not attack living plant matter. If you are able, you could bring a specimen and description of your problem to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. Someone will phone you within a week usually. We also have some publications you can order regarding termites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects notably MC 39, MC 40, MC 80, MC 81. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener foothill@uswest.net wrote: > Termites in the lawn. > I think I have termites in the back portion of my yard. > I've little dirt tubes pop up here and there in my yard. > When I brush them down, sometimes I see little white insects > that look like termites. They aren't on the foundation of my house, the > closest tube I've found is about 12 feet away from the foundation. > Do I need to do anything about them? > > Thanks for any help! From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:32:05 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:32:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions Generally, pesticides used for insects do not work on scorpions unless they are sprayed directly, a difficult thing to do since they are nocturnal. Also, because they don't wash themselves and the shell is very durable, this doesn't always ensure the direct spray will work. Best ways to control them are to make their environment inhospitable, ie remove food sources [cockroaches and crickets] and remove their preferred habitat [rock or wood piles, loose boards, debris, old tires, etc. Please wear gloves!]. Chemical controls are, of course, available in most garden supply stores. If you must take this approach, get out the black light and direct spray if possible. I do like your thought about torching them, which I'm adding as a footnote to our publication on the topic! Unfortunately, you will have to read the labels to see about toxicity for any human or animal life. Linda Guy Master Gardener gmastin@primenet.com wrote: > Dear MCCE, > I live in the "scorpion alley" in Tempe (South Tempe-Mclintock and Warner). I have various other critters in my yard ( garden snakes, lizzards, crickets, snails,etc). > I want to use diazion granules in the rocks to try and control the scorpions( ie. some of the food source). My conern is whether this will also sicken and kill the lizzards and snakes. > If it is directly harmful to the others, what can I use to help with the scorpions and not the others, short of the black light and torch method? > Thank-you, > Gwen MAstin From sirws@hotmail.com Thu Oct 5 17:49:03 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:49:03 -0700 (MST) From: sirws@hotmail.com sirws@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all? From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:41:29 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:41:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raising Cannas Mike, This from the Sunset Western Garden Book since I don't have cannas: A tuberous rooted perennial that is native to tropics and subtropics. Likes sun and needs heavy watering during bloom cycle. Remove faded flowers after bloom. When all flowers have bloomed, cut stalk to the ground. Rootstocks generally planted in spring following frost, in very rich, loose soil. I'm sorry I don't have more information to share, and the delay of our response. With the fall gardening season starting, the volume of questions is really rising! Linda Guy Master Gardener greatmfs@aol.com wrote: > Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. > Thank You mike > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:49:33 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:49:33 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers Soft bodied insects like these can be addressed with stiff jet sprays of water or the mild soap and water method, particularly for veggies. Other options are insecticidal soaps or the botanical insecticide neem or [this from Sunset] dusting with DE. I don't know the impact on vegetables, so a good read of the label will be important. With any treatment, addressing the underside of leaves is most important. Also, finding and treating the problem as quickly as possible. Sprays for leaf miners will also impact the parasitic wasps that feed on them. Next year, how about putting everything under floating row cover and perhaps avoid the need to spray at all? Sorry for the delayed response. Fall gardening is underway and our inbaskets are burgeoning with questions! Linda Guy Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. > > My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer > damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of > corn. > > But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was > overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a > leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil > mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were > so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. > > What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. > > Thanks in advance, > > - Jim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:57:09 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:57:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Money Plant - Lunaria annua (L. biennis) The Sunset Western Garden Book does not indicate that this plant will grow in our zone 13, even though they are said to like sun, poor soil and little water. You'd think that we had all the ingredients here! This is a biennial in the brassicaceae/cruciferae family [cabbage, broccoli, etc.] which we are planting right now in our cool season vegetable patches. So, I'd suggest that you treat them as a cool season annual and see what will happen. I should think that full or partial winter sun in a garden might be tolerable. Also put a few in containers and experiment with the best location. Remember, whatever you do, it was never meant to live more than two seasons in the best of conditions. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener papa-nannie@rkis.com wrote: > Will you please give me instructions for > trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose > (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with > my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. > also will a Money plant grow here? My > sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told > me to soak them before planting, but I can > find no other info on them. thank you for > your help, > Nena Shelton > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:03:41 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:03:41 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Black Plastic We haven't recommended black plastic under rock mulch for years and you are wise to further assist your landscape's water needs. Of course, plastic does deteriorate after some years, particularly if it's been walked over. I assume yours is still in tact? But I've often wondered if perforating the plastic wouldn't be a short cut to take? I've seen those spikey sandals that one dons over a pair of shoes to aerate lawns. Mightn't something like that in the rock mulch do the trick? Or poking the soil with another garden implement? It is just a thought, and I'll be interested to see how my colleagues respond to your query and my musings! Linda Guy Master Gardener sirws@hotmail.com wrote: > I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the > granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf > which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and > some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as > little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed > granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:10:03 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:10:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Pomegranates The published information I have from the Family and Consumer Services area has recipes for using the pomegranates, but I couldn't find instructions for drying them. You could always phone them at 602/470-8086, x341. This is an autumn fruit which is harvested from September through November. Thin skin with bright color and fresh appearance are considered preferable. Taste testing is the best way to judge their 'readiness'. Linda Guy Master Gardener roarh1950@aol.com wrote: > I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:23:04 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:23:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jade Plant - Crassula argentea or ovata My reference materials conflicted on the botanical name, but the photos were very similar. The jade plant is a succulent but it hails from Madagascar and South Africa. They can grow here but need overhead protection from the sun. It is often a container plant on a patio/porch area. They prefer modest amounts of water once established, which I can personally attest to having recently lost a beautiful, fast-growing specimen [3" pot to about 18" across in less than a year] because I got too motherly with the irrigation. I didn't follow my own oft-dispensed advice of checking the moisture in the root ball and it was lost in a matter of days once it succumbed! Use a succulent soil mix that is half grit/pumice to ensure good drainage. Sometimes you can get little pink flowers from November to April. Particularly if outside, remove the saucer so the water is not reabsorbed into the container. Infrequent watering, as already mentioned. Grows as large as the container it is in in a relatively short period of time. I've never taken cuttings from the plant but would suggest trying a rooting hormone and placing the branch in a medium that is kept somewhat moist until roots form. Linda Guy Master Gardener kelarsen@primenet.com wrote: > I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:29:32 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:29:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Alternatives for Pearl Scale Our turf guru recently educated us to the fact that pearl scale is HIGHLY overused as an excuse for failing lawns. To quote from him "Seeded bermuda varieties are more tolerant of Pearl Scale and seem to outgrow it as they are more vigorous growers - keep the grass un-stressed and it can tolerate a Pearl Scale infestation. Even the hybrid sod bermudas can tolerate most levels of Pearl Scale as long as the other care and maintenance factors in the lawn are up-to-speed and the grass is kept as healthy as possible. As with most plants, keep it healthy and it can tolerate a little problem and stay alive." Of course, the hybrid lawns are the ones that are not allergenic. General discussion of turf options are in the Lawn Chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ However, again to refer to our turf specialist, bermuda remains the grass of choice in the full sun of the low desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener JGibson@TriWest.com wrote: > I am looking for alternative grasses that would handle our heat but not be > susceptible to Pearl Scale. Any suggestions? St. Augustine? Santa Ana? > Tiff? > > I was told that it only attacks Bermuda Hybrids. Is this true? > > Are there any other non-allergenic grasses that could work? > > Any assistance is appreciated. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:38:24 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:38:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help If you haven't already contacted your local Cooperative Extension Office and its Master Gardener staff, you're in for a treat. Although I believe your office is in Globe, if I read the map correctly there seems to be a satellite in Payson http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ I hope you didn't miss their gardening conference in Payson last September! One of our server members is a Master Gardener who lives up there, so I hope she sees this note and contacts you directly. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County Carleneebr@aol.com wrote: > This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:42:04 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:42:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management We have a nice writeup on managing rabbits at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm which includes fencing dimensions. I don't find any information regarding quail. Perhaps addressing the question to Game and Fish? There are also some references listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener gmgvt@aol.com wrote: > WE are getting ready to put in a garden area at a senior residential community. WE know we need fencing to keep the rabbits out - but we don't know how high the fencing needs to be. Do we need to make it high enough to discourage quail? Thanks for any assistance you can offer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:44:10 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:44:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Clippings for Compost --------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products have been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if you are inclined to natural or organic techniques. Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors' leaves for the same purpose. Linda Guy Master gardener "David M. Kerr" wrote: > It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns > scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy > to let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to > get manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take > the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some > spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and > oleanders in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half > their weight and bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile. --------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products have been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if you are inclined to natural or organic techniques.

Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors' leaves for the same purpose.

Linda Guy
Master gardener

"David M. Kerr" wrote:

It is prime time for composters.  My neighbors are having their lawns scalped and dethatched for winter lawns.  I find the gardeners happy to let me take the cuttings.  It is less work than going to a ranch to get manure for me.  It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee.  It helps if  you know some spanish.  I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and oleanders in my front yard.  In a month, they will have lost half their weight and bulk.  I will relocate them to my compost pile.
--------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527-- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Oct 5 19:06:57 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:06:57 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got another question. I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem is, everything did poorly. How do I go about diagnosing the problem? The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are stunted. I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I should look for? I'm not sure where to start. - Jim From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:56:51 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:56:51 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any ideas for Jim? --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 72911 invoked by uid 0); 5 Oct 2000 19:08:07 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 19:08:07 -0000 Received: (qmail 42740 invoked from network); 5 Oct 2000 19:08:06 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 19:08:06 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27571; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:08:02 -0700 (MST) Received: from thcpdc.honors.arizona.edu (Honors.Arizona.EDU [128.196.52.125]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27423 for ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:07:03 -0700 (MST) Received: by Honors.arizona.edu with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:07:04 -0700 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:06:57 -0700 Message-ID: From: "Jim Bayers" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: "'arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu'" MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got another question. I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem is, everything did poorly. How do I go about diagnosing the problem? The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are stunted. I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I should look for? I'm not sure where to start. - Jim _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:59:07 2000 Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:59:07 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Raising Iris] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any iris afficinados out there who can help Mike? --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 90698 invoked by uid 0); 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (204.147.80.23) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: (qmail 77975 invoked from network); 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from imo-d06.mx.aol.com (205.188.157.38) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from GreatMFS@aol.com by imo-d06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.24.) id 9.10.327cf09 (4316) for ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:08:08 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:08:08 EDT Message-ID: <10.327cf09.270e1d88@aol.com> From: GreatMFS@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Re: Raising Iris MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 118 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thank You for your previous information on Cannas Would like information on Iris. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You Mike --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D-- From gussiejean@earthlink.net Fri Oct 6 00:04:04 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:04:04 -0700 From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Regarding scorpians This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Regarding scorpions. Chickens and cats. :-) Chickens and cats help = with the control of scorpions. Chickens eat them and cats kill them. = Neither are affected by their sting. KO ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Regarding scorpions.  Chickens and = cats.  :-)  Chickens and cats help with the control of=20 scorpions.  Chickens eat them and cats kill them.  Neither are = affected by their sting.  KO
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80-- From redqueen@netzero.net Fri Oct 6 00:16:47 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:16:47 -0700 (MST) From: redqueen@netzero.net redqueen@netzero.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I just moved from Ohio.... From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:16 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:16 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye gras seed, how much to use If you are planting annual rye the recommended rate is 10 to 20 Pounds per 1000 square feet. For perenial rye the rate is 10 to 15 pounds per 1000 square feet. Fertilizer should be applied starting two to three weeks after seeding at the rate of 1/4 to 1/2 pound per 1000 square feet of actual nitrogen. Using amonium phosphate ( 16/20/0 ) at the 1/2 pound rate you should apply 3 pounds per 1000. This rate would apply for November, December and January. For February and March double the previous rate. The above rates are recommended by U. of A. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:18 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:18 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees and shrubs Please check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:17 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:17 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Ash I am told that the Fraxinus velutina ( Fantex ) is a seedless variety and as such you shouldn't have to worry about seeds. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist. From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Oct 6 03:07:03 2000 Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:07:03 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page With the Mexican Bird of Paradise, it helps to scarify the seeds, then soak in water overnight before planting. To scarify, rub the seeds with sandpaper to make it easier for moisture to enter the seed. Or use a file at the rounded end of the seed. Keep the medium moist until the seeds germinates. I don't have any experience with lavender but if the seed coat is very hard, it would require similar treatment. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I just moved from Ohio.... From bjbennett@kna.to Fri Oct 6 12:37:44 2000 Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 05:37:44 -0700 (MST) From: bjbennett@kna.to bjbennett@kna.to Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 19:11:57 2000 Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 15:11:57 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Root Rot Yes Texas Root Rot is quiute common in the valley (Maricopa County). I have not seen anything published about one area being any worse than others. If you have trees that are now planted be sure to provide adequate irrigation, but do not over water. The fungus that causes Texas Root Rot thrives in moist and alkaline soil. If you are about to plant more trees, I would advise planting either immune ( palm trees ) or the trees that are resistant to TRR. U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin onTexas Root Rot which lists the trees and shrubs that are resistant as well as those that are susceptable, available for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us Sat Oct 7 00:49:55 2000 Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 17:49:55 -0700 (MST) From: tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 1- What environmentally safe steps can I take in order to change my bermuda/weed infested yard into a natural desert landscape. 2- I'm considering planting one or two Chilean Mesquites on the western side of my house. How close to the house and underground utility lines can the trees be? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 02:41:53 2000 Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:41:53 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass to desert landscape You must kill the bermuda grass before you do a desert landscape or you will be in a worse situation than you are now.The only practical way to get rid of bermuda is chemically unless you want to have a four foot deep hole excavated to get rid of all the bermuda roots. then you may not have the bermuda eliminated because the dirt that is used to fill the hole may have bermuda roots in it The recommended method is to kill the bermuda and weeds with a chemical such as Roundup ( glyphosate ). If you intend to do it this fall you must start immediately because the bermuda must be actively growing. If you have been watering regularly and the bermuda is actively growing apply the chemical then wait two weeks to see if you killed it all if not then apply the chemical again. The chemical glyphosate is effective only when it hits the grass. Once it hits the ground it is no longer effective after it dries. If you cannot start right away then you must wait until late spring or early summer when the bermuda is again actively growng. The Chilean Mesquite can grow to 40 foot diameter crown so if you want it to be away from the house then it should be planted 20 feet away. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From joegullo@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 15:53:42 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:53:42 -0700 (MST) From: joegullo@worldnet.att.net joegullo@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do you dry eucalyptus? From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat Oct 7 17:49:26 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 10:49:26 -0700 (MST) From: fscapellit@mindspring.com fscapellit@mindspring.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is this a resting time for my euryops?? All six of them have brown tinges on the tips, but one, I'm afraid is dying, is all turning brown. Did we put too much mulch in the ground? We've turned off the drip irrigation and water them by hand every other weekend....just enough to hope the roots are watered. Thank you. From jmausphx@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 20:44:19 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:44:19 -0700 (MST) From: jmausphx@worldnet.att.net jmausphx@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have what I think is an ash tree which has a number of branches that are dying. It started last spring. now half the tree has branches with dead leaves. It is in a flood irrigation yard. It didn't get a lot of water last winter due to SRP dry up and no rain. Any ideas? Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:02 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:02 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus, drying Your question was how do you dry Eucalyptus, if you are referring to firewood, just leave it out in the sun for about six months, it will burn great. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:09 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:09 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree dying If the dead leaves are still hanging on to the branches, this is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot. The only positive way to find this out is to bring a root sample to U.of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040. the Sample should be finger to thumb size and 12 inches long. The Diagnostic Clinic meets on Friday morning, and the sample should be as fresh as possible. If the Ash was without water for two to three months last winter it could have become stressed to the point where it would be easy for a pathogen to attack. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From annathome@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 8 02:54:07 2000 Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:54:07 -0700 (MST) From: annathome@worldnet.att.net annathome@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have lost several Hibiscus plants, I think they had Texas Root Rot. Is my soil now contaminated, if I plant more hibiscus will the also get it? (The plants were 4 years old) From TPET1934@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 18:49:58 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:49:58 -0700 (MST) From: TPET1934@AOL.COM TPET1934@AOL.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page WE HAVE A BOUGAINVILLEA BUSH THAT HAS NOT PRODUCED ANY RED BRACTS, IT'S BEEN IN THE GROUND FOR OVER A YEAR AND LOOKS HEALTHY OTHER WISE. From jbcook@erols.com Sun Oct 8 19:13:16 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:13:16 -0700 (MST) From: jbcook@erols.com jbcook@erols.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 19:16:44 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:16:44 -0700 (MST) From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM MADASMITH@AOL.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS TO LATE TO PLANT BOUGAINVILLEA. I WILL BE PLANTING IT ON THE WEST SIDE OF A BLOCK FENCE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:03 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot If your Hibiscus did have Texas Root Rot the fungus will always be in the soil unless you apply a chemical such as Vapam to kill the fungus. The alternative is too plant an immune species such as agaves, Bird of Paradise, yucca, or pampas grass. U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway,Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin titled "Root Rot in Arizona" for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:08 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:08 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, not producing red bracts There are two things that will reduce the bract production, the first is too much shade, and the other is too much water. If you watered every two to three weeks in summer once the plant is established it should be very happy. Bougainvillea is usually well established after one year in the ground. I have several Bougainvillea and I removed the drippers after the first year, and they bloom their heads off. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:12 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:12 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take it out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their roots disturbed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Oct 8 21:52:10 2000 Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:52:10 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM To: MADASMITH@aol.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take it out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their roots disturbed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:01:37 2000 Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:01:37 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purchasing MG Manual The MG Manual and the MG Entomology Manual may be purchased from the UA in Tucson, in addition to being viewed online. Consult http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/quarterly.html jbcook@erols.com wrote: > Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:27:10 2000 Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:27:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wild Tulips for Zones 9 & 10 Further to your inquiry regarding tulips in Phoenix; you might be interested in some material that I discovered today in the McClure & Zimmerman bulb catalog for Fall 2000. In addition to confirming our previous advice to treat regular tulip bulbs, after a period of refrigerator chilling [remove all fruit so that the ethylene gas does not kill the flower embryon], as an annual, they suggested five wild tulips that don't need a cold period to flower and that they claim naturalize well in southern states [which doesn't mean our area necessarily]. You can order a collection of all 5 [6 each for a total of 30 bulbs] for $15.95 plus s&h. I can't attest to how well they will do here, but if you are interested...... Tulipa sylvestris, t. bakeri 'Lilac Wonder', t. clusiana var. chrysantha, t. clusiana, and t. saxatalis. http://www.mzbulb.com/ Linda From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Oct 9 15:05:26 2000 Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:05:26 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing The way I have prevented disturbing the root system is to dig the hole. Cut the bottom of the pot out with a utility knife. Stick pot and plant in the hole, and put soil all the way around the pot. Next on one side of the pot I slice the plastic, all the way up the side with the utility knife and pull the plastic pot out. The soil falls in around the plant, so no harm is done. This has been very successful in all plants that I've planted. In particular roses, because most times the soil is very loose in the rose pots, and falls off as I'm trying to pull the rose out. alan Ursula Miller wrote: > I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned > that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at > the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil > easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and > I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best > to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you > plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of > the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots > and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because > they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.) > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM > To: MADASMITH@aol.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting > > It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take > it > out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their > roots > disturbed. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From Oilybird@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 17:13:18 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:13:18 -0700 (MST) From: Oilybird@AOL.com Oilybird@AOL.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy otherwise. From cdavidson@az.rmci.net Mon Oct 9 17:54:17 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:54:17 -0700 (MST) From: cdavidson@az.rmci.net cdavidson@az.rmci.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My question is on a Shamel Ash. On the south side of the trunk, there are patches where the bark is gone and a white patch remains. There is also yellow-brown sap running down that side of the trunk. I only notice one tiny hole near one area where the sap is running. The tree is about 5 years old. From TJGaccione@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 21:46:54 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:46:54 -0700 (MST) From: TJGaccione@AOL.com TJGaccione@AOL.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have poplar trees in our grass and around our yard. They send sucker shoots all over. My husband is afraid that the roots under the ground will grow thick and come out of the ground and ruin our whole yard. He is planning to have them removed. They are about three years old and 30-40 feet tall. Is there anything we can do to save these trees? Please help if you can. I am sick about this. Deana Gaccione From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:01:50 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:01:50 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tangerine tree lost leaves A dramatic change in temperature can cause citrus to drop it's leaves, but in this case I suspect inadequate irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigationat the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:02:07 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:02:07 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Shamel Ash has lost bark I suspect that what you are seeing on the Ash tree is sun burn which has caused the bark to fall off leaving bare wood. The tree should be either painted white or wrapped wih a material like burlap to prevent the sun burn until the crown is wide enough to shade the trunk.The running sap is no doubt caused by stress. Is the tree being watered adequately? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:23:33 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:23:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Popular trees The Popular trees can become vary invasive especially if grown in a grass lawn, they can crack walks and driveways, enter your sewer or septic field and plug them, and the roots will surface as the tree grows. Sorry but your husband is on target on this one. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From j_l_cooper@hotmail.com Mon Oct 9 23:34:24 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 16:34:24 -0700 (MST) From: j_l_cooper@hotmail.com j_l_cooper@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 10 00:14:27 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 17:14:27 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My grapefruit tree lost a bunch of leaves, too, during the last couple of months probably also due to not enough watering. I think I underestimated the damage that the unusually L-O-O-O-N-G hot summer can do. Anyway, I finally figured it out, gave it several deep waterings and now it seems to be doing fine -- getting lots of new, shiny green leaves. So maybe that's all yours needs - a couple more deep waterings and the cooler weather we're starting to have. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Oilybird@aol.com Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:13 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy otherwise. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Bcd2533@aol.com Tue Oct 10 04:50:51 2000 Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:50:51 -0700 (MST) From: Bcd2533@aol.com Bcd2533@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For the hot summer months my watering went as such: lawn (20 minutes, 3 times a week) and plants (2 1/2 hours (drippers), 2 times a week). What should I cut that back to in the fall and winter? Were these good for the summer months? They were recommended by a florist. Everything looks pretty decent at that watering rate. Thank you. From saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov Tue Oct 10 12:25:28 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 05:25:28 -0700 (MST) From: saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Va. and have a palm planted in my backyard. Someone told me you have to wrap the palms in burlap for the winter. Is this right, and if so, can you tell me how to do it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:13 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:13 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms planted in Virginia You didn't say what kind of palm tree you have nor what the climate is where you live, so I'm afraid I won't be able to help you. I'm sure that the weather conditions in Va. are quite different from Phoenix Arizona where I'm located. Please check with your county Cooperative Extension, they will know your local conditions and be able to answer your questions.They will be listed in the phone book under county government. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:04 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall and winter watering For winter watering of plants and trees in the low desert tyhe irrigation interval should be increased 3 to 4 times from the summer watering. If you do not over seed with rye grass and your grass is bermuda the irrigation interval should be increased about 5 times. Do this gradually from what you are doing now. Since you didn't tell me what your plants are I'm unable to advise you about them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:10:23 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:10:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean I cannot find a reference to lab lob and cannot otherwise identify your plant with the limited description. Do you have the botanical name? Have you approached the nursery from which it was originally purchased? Linda Guy Master Gardener spiessman@uswest.net wrote: > is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:19:06 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:19:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher Problem? Since the gophers that most often reside in soft soils, presumably to make it easier to tunnel, it is unlikely that this is your culprit. They are vegetarian, liking roots and bulbs in particular. Once established, they can indeed cause extensive damage to landscaping. We have a publication on the topic, which you can order by 'clicking' on publications for Maricopa County at our website [look under insects & pests for Q403. I would provide you with a link in this message, but our server is down and I cannot access the particular page of our website at this time. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener dickcarmi@aol.com wrote: > I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:27:18 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:27:18 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden Barrel [Echinocactus] Offsets My reference material suggests that mature offsets, which have begun to form their own roots can be detached from the parent to grow in separate pots. It does not suggest a drying period, which is often done with cuttings to form a callus and prevent rot. Another, and probably better, resource for you would be the Desert Botanical Garden's hotline, 10-11:30 am, M-F, 480-941-1225. By the way, my book says that this cactus' nickname is mother-in-law's seat. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener rabrag@aol.com wrote: > My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it > and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:31:11 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:31:11 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia I don't have specific advice for you, but if none of my colleagues has yet replied, I invite you to bring samples to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office. There is a weekly staff/volunteer meeting to diagnosis problems, after which someone will call you with diagnosis and management advice. The address is 4300 block of East Broadway Road. The address for this, and a satellite office which may be closer to you, are listed on the page of our website where you originally placed your question. I would provide you with a link to this site but our server is down at this time and I can't access our web pages. Linda Guy Master Gardener MLabe20805@aol.com wrote: > Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated. > 5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects. > Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins. > Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects > (10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler > Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the > thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch > the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the > bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such > wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the > wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to > cause that kind of damage. > > Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the > reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush? > > Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:36:00 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:36:00 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Moving Succulents to Colorado Your best bet will be to contact the equivalent agency [the local county's Cooperative Extension Office] and discuss their particular climate and soil conditions. Keeping the plants in containers and moving them indoors as the weather got severe might just be your best option. You can probably find the office on the web [if they post a site] but at least start with the Colorado State website at http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/ Good luck with your pending move. Linda Guy Master Gardener bjbennett@kna.to wrote: > Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From obeles@gateway.net Wed Oct 11 03:43:20 2000 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 20:43:20 -0700 From: obeles obeles@gateway.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rotten Yucca I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north. (Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested with others. Thanks for your help. From zazasmama@home.com Wed Oct 11 07:17:55 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 00:17:55 -0700 (MST) From: zazasmama@home.com zazasmama@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard. In it it mentions that he plants dwarf varieties of similar need citrus together. (Two to four trees in the same, large hole) Anyone have anymore information on this? We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 13:55:32 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 06:55:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dwarf Citrus As I recall, he was affiliated with the Rare Fruit Growers chapter here. You might try contacting them in an effort to reach him directly. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener zazasmama@home.com wrote: > On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an > article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard. > In it it mentions that he plants dwarf > varieties of similar need citrus together. > (Two to four trees in the same, large hole) > Anyone have anymore information on this? > We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:00:06 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:00:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rotten Yucca The entomology chapter of the MG Manual has a single root related pest of ornamentals, the palo verde borer. However there is an agave weevil that is also a root feeder and can cause rot. Check our summary at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/agave-wv.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener obeles wrote: > I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north. > (Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more > specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what > looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed > a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this > be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I > squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested > with others. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:02 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >From one of our server members. --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 29548 invoked by uid 0); 11 Oct 2000 01:44:32 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (204.147.80.18) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:44:32 -0000 Received: (qmail 24110 invoked from network); 11 Oct 2000 01:44:22 -0000 Received: from pimout1-ext.prodigy.net (HELO pimout1-int.prodigy.net) (207.115.63.77) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:44:22 -0000 Received: from 0016164664 (nas-160-144.phoenix-t.navipath.net [64.20.160.144] (may be forged)) by pimout1-int.prodigy.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id e9B1iBp103572 for ; Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:44:12 -0400 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:43:21 -0700 Message-ID: <000201c03324$a432b640$90a01440@0016164664> From: "Pauline Marx" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean Organization: Prodigy Internet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Lab Lab bean is the common name for Dolichis lablab. It is also called Hyacinth bean or Eygyptian Bean. The pods are edible but I have no recipes for cooking them Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:51 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:51 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ditto from same server member. Linda --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 18116 invoked by uid 0); 11 Oct 2000 01:52:24 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (204.147.80.23) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:52:24 -0000 Received: (qmail 325 invoked from network); 11 Oct 2000 01:52:23 -0000 Received: from pimout1-ext.prodigy.net (HELO pimout1-int.prodigy.net) (207.115.63.77) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:52:23 -0000 Received: from 0016164664 (nas-160-144.phoenix-t.navipath.net [64.20.160.144] (may be forged)) by pimout1-int.prodigy.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id e9B1qMp59154 for ; Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:52:22 -0400 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:51:30 -0700 Message-ID: <000401c03325$c805be40$90a01440@0016164664> From: "Pauline Marx" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean Organization: Prodigy Internet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 The correct name of the lablab bean plant. is DOLICHOS lablab. It is grown for food in warm regions and as an ornamental annual elsewhere. It grows from 10 to 30 feet. It has leaves with 3 leaflets, purple or white flowers and velvety pods containing white and purple edible beans. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:13:56 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:13:56 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Poolside Landscaping We have an excellent publication that is available to you online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Its in the section on ornamentals. Linda Guy Master Gardener j_l_cooper@hotmail.com wrote: > I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:26:10 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:26:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Entomology Manual Does anyone know if the MG Entomology Manual (1994) which the UA sells for $7, is any different than the same chapter in the MG Manual (1998)? When using the hyperlink to the html version listed on the UA's publication page, I got sent to the MG Manual, presumably for that chapter. Is there any point in purchasing it separately from the MG Manual ($36)? Thanks! Linda From currens123@aol.com Wed Oct 11 15:58:37 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:58:37 -0700 (MST) From: currens123@aol.com currens123@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Trees without thorns that will do well in Buckeye. From birds16@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 17:02:55 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:02:55 -0700 (MST) From: birds16@uswest.net birds16@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I think our bottle trees have root rot. They have been very healthy and are now drooping, turning yellow and loosing leaves. The area is kind of wet and from listening to a garden show it sounds like root rot. What can be done to save these trees? Thank you. Pam From dckelly@sedona.net Wed Oct 11 17:27:53 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:27:53 -0700 (MST) From: dckelly@sedona.net dckelly@sedona.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Should your fertilize native plants such as salvia greggii. If so, what kind of fertilizer? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 22:31:04 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:31:04 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival Subject: Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival! I wanted to let you know about the first annual Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival, coming October 21st. It will be held at the site of the Gilbert community garden (called Cooley Heritage Community Garden), on the SE corner of Gilbert Rd & Elliot Rd. The hours will be around 8-5 (or later?) Saturday October 21, although some pumpkins may be available for sale the previous Friday afternoon. This event allows the community garden plot owners to raise money to grow all their goodies! Some participants include the Boys & Girls Club, the YMCA, Kiwanis, and Gilbert Elementary schools. The MG Program will also have a presence at the festival. The festival is planning to include pumpkins for sale and carving, the local farmer's market, bake sales & other food vendors, etc. Also, Gilbert Elementary will hold a fun house for the younger kids, which will go great with the face painting and pumpkin photo ops! In addition, swing dancers are planned in attendance late afternoon on Saturday. This is a great chance to both help out our brand new community garden, and have lots of fun! Also, there are additional booth spots available for organizations interested in a presence at the festival...AND there are still some plots available for groups and individuals to participate in the community garden. So collect your friends and family, and come have a great time! Maeve Dion MG Intern maevedion@yahoo.com ===== Maeve Dion maevedion@yahoo.com From bobbsorg@email.msn.com Wed Oct 11 23:43:40 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:43:40 -0700 (MST) From: bobbsorg@email.msn.com bobbsorg@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find out when to plant herbs outside. I have some planted inside and want to transplant them. Also, can they be planted directly outside in full sun??? I had a lavendar plant that was planted for months -- went through more than half of the summer and then died. What did I do wrong? Actually, what should I have done to keep it alive. Any tips on herbs would be helfpul. Is there a natural way to get rid of insects on plants? Are there are grants available re: natural insect control -- both on plants and in homes -- who would I need to contact on this?? Thank you in advance for your help. From dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com Thu Oct 12 04:04:31 2000 Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:04:31 -0700 (MST) From: dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my sister recently planted verigated privets in front of green pittisporum...the privets are apprx. 2 feet tall...the pitts are the same height...question: how much can she take off from the height of the privets and also how can she promote growth at the base of the privets ?..she is in houston tx...so has a usually warm winter...need prunning instructions as we are novices....thanx... From cambpd@cs.com Thu Oct 12 14:48:24 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:48:24 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How can you tell the difference between the Southern Live Oak (Quercus Virginiana)and the Heritage veriety of Q. Virginiana in young nursury plants. Is there a noticable difference in the leaves. Also, I have read that the Heritage vartiety is best for the low desert areas (Phoenix). Why is that and what is the difference in the growth habits that make the Heritage better for this area. Are the differences significant? The Heritage variety is hard to find. Most nursuries don't have it while others either don't know of it or claim it is the same as other Southern Live Oaks. Thanks. From patriots@intermind.net Thu Oct 12 15:23:54 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:23:54 -0700 (MST) From: patriots@intermind.net patriots@intermind.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page can bores attack chil. mesquite trees what is the treatment thank you sean From kathygeb@home.com Thu Oct 12 16:18:58 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:18:58 -0700 (MST) From: kathygeb@home.com kathygeb@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Meyer's lemon tree is loosing leaves on same branch. Lost seven leaves in one night. Leaves are still green, no apparent reason. Could you please tell me what the problem could be? From saz621@primenet.com Thu Oct 12 18:04:55 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:04:55 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Heritage oak Quercus virginiana the southern live oak has a very large range that extends in Texas from the Gulf of Mexico coast through the southern half of the state and on into the arid western region, known ludicrously as West Texas. The most western populations are often known as Quercus fusiformis, a point on which wise people have no opinion. 'Heritage' is a form that was found, saved, and whose seedlings have been sold with that name for many years. It is generally more heat tolerant than many live oaks, a bit more upright in form, although there is so much variation. In what is known as the Hill Country of Texas where soils are thin, underlain with limestone and therefore very alkaline, and live oaks are abundant, their progeny can do well here and they might be called southern live oak, hill country live oak, 'Heritage' oak, or Quercus fusiformis. So, it is very difficult to tell 'Heritage' without a tag saying so. More recently growers of this selection are attempting to grow it from cuttings so that it will be a bit more uniform. Good luck, Mary Irish From theazhalls@juno.com Thu Oct 12 18:01:28 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:01:28 -0700 (MST) From: theazhalls@juno.com theazhalls@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sorry for the long post. I have a willow acacia about 25 ft high. I have myoporum as a ground cover but it's not doing well, I assume because of the shade. The acacia is heaving the ground up to eight inches around the trunk, and shoots runners as far out as twice the crown diameter, which I'm afraid will eventually choke my nearby palo brea. It's hard to clean the myoporum without damaging it. I'd like to plant a shade tolerant grass underneath the tree. My thinking is I can runover the leaf drop and the runners with the lawn mower. Is there a suitable grass for this? Also, can I knock down or rototill some of the heaved dirt and root without the tree falling over? I'm open to alternative suggestions. Thanks. From weimeraa@aol.com Thu Oct 12 18:31:41 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:31:41 -0700 (MST) From: weimeraa@aol.com weimeraa@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have moved to Sun City. Everything I have planted has been eaten by the rabbits! Do you have any suggestions for herbs and flowers that the rabbits will not eat? Thank you for any help you are able to offer. From pllawrence@hotmail.com Thu Oct 12 19:42:18 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:42:18 -0700 (MST) From: pllawrence@hotmail.com pllawrence@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there anything that can be done to stop or curb production of seed pods on ash trees? They are very messay and attract birds. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:12 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:12 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash trees, preenting seeds Sorry but there is no way to prevent the seeds from forming on an Ash tree. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:03 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Borers attacking Mesquite tree Sean, Yes borers can attack the Mesquite tree. Unfortunately there is no treatment. The best thing you can do is to keep the tree as healthy as possible with deep water irrigation and some fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:08:03 2000 Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:08:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle trees loosing leaves Pam, I suspect that the problem with your bottle trees is too much water since you said that the area was wet. One of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot is that the leaves turn brown very quickly and hang on to the tree. This doesn't mean that your tree doesn't have TRR , it is still posible but not likely. Whereas the yellow dropping leaves is indictive of too much water. You can determine if TRR is present by taking a root sample to the U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Dig up roots finger to thumb size about 12 inches long. A diagnostic clinic meets every Friday morning. you do not have to be there, but the fresher the sample the better the chance of identifying the problem. If you do take the root sample to the Extension please take a copy of this email with you. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Oct 13 14:29:59 2000 Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:29:59 EDT From: Beverlyfz@aol.com Beverlyfz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo I have the opportunity next week to dig up and plant in my desert yard 5 huge ocotillo plants from a lot that is being scraped off. I remember that you had directions recently to do this successfully. Can you send them again? I didn't save them. thx B From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 13 22:08:06 2000 Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:08:06 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree problems I neglected to include one other problem that could be affecting your Ash tree when I responded to your question recently. Arizona Ash Decline has symptoms similiar to Texas Root Rot in that the leaves turn brown and hang on to the tree. The biggest difference is that the decline occurs over a period of time whereas with Texas Root Rot the decline occurs quiute rapidly. Unfortunately the cause for Arizona Ash Decline is unknown as is a control. The best thing you can do is to make sure that the tree is deep watered byweekly in the summer and monthly in the winter along with proper fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From aprosser@talleyds.com Fri Oct 13 22:13:38 2000 Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 15:13:38 -0700 (MST) From: aprosser@talleyds.com aprosser@talleyds.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have and African Sumac tree approx. 15 yrs old. Several times a year it's leaves begin turning yellow and dropping off. So far I have treated it with alka-leache and deep watering and that seems to bring it back some what, but the tree never is the lush full green as others I see in my area. This one usually appears to be a gray-green, just hanging in there, kind of color. What could this be please? From umiller@azdps.com Sat Oct 14 03:26:41 2000 Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:26:41 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Rabbits I know exactly what you're talking about. I live in Peoria and the rabbits are everywhere - and I don't even like rabbit stew!!!! If you'll go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004443.html you should find a list that I compiled of plants that rabbits don't like. One way to deal with them, of course, is fencing - putting fences around the plants when they're small and then removing the fences when the bush gets big. That way the rabbits just eat the bottoms. They're even eating the bottom leaves of my grapefruit tree, which is actually fine with me because they'd have to do some heavy-duty eating to eat the whole tree. The usual documented techniques for keeping rabbits away have not worked for me. This includes spreading blood meal and other things like that. Supposedly mothballs keep them away; but who wants a yard that smells like mothballs? And I, who considers myself to be fairly bright, have not done a good job at all of outsmarting them. One plant which I don't think I included on the list is the wildflower Desert Marigold. It's a small plant with very pretty daisy-like flowers that are also great for cutting. But you can't buy Desert Marigold as plants; you have to buy the seeds and sow them outdoors. I've done it and the rabbits don't eat them. If you'll go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=ra bbits&submit=Search and enter the word rabbits, you'll find other discussions about the pesky critters. Also, if you have rabbits, keep an eye on your dripper lines. The rabbits have bitten through several of my lines and I've had little geysers from time to time. You will develop a new appreciation for Elmer Fudd's travails. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of weimeraa@aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:32 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have moved to Sun City. Everything I have planted has been eaten by the rabbits! Do you have any suggestions for herbs and flowers that the rabbits will not eat? Thank you for any help you are able to offer. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crhesse@yahoo.com Sat Oct 14 09:59:44 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 02:59:44 -0700 (MST) From: crhesse@yahoo.com crhesse@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I take a sample of my soil to have an analysis done? Everything is starting to die on me after living in this house 12 years. From rconklin@trip.net Sat Oct 14 12:35:14 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 05:35:14 -0700 (MST) From: rconklin@trip.net rconklin@trip.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have recently purchased land in South Texas. I remember as a child my mother taking an avocado seed puting it in water until it roots and planting it into a pot. It grew into a beautiful plant. I've rooted two and wanted to know if planted in the ground will they produce avocados and if, as other fruit trees, you need two. I'd appreciate any information you can give me. Thanks From OLMTREE@aol.com Sat Oct 14 15:07:53 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 11:07:53 EDT From: OLMTREE@aol.com OLMTREE@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying goards Madams and Sirs, We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be very thankful. Page Olmsted Olmtree@aol.com From JDymndol@aol.com Sat Oct 14 17:34:50 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:34:50 -0700 (MST) From: JDymndol@aol.com JDymndol@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page 10/5 we had a landscaping company work with our front yard. They determined that one of the smaller foothill palo verdes could re re-located. When this smaller palo verde was dug up it turned out it was a "pup" or "sucker" with only one root to the "mother tree" It is about the size of a 36" box palo verde. It was replanted with a drip system. Itis not looking well. The branches are drying out although the trunk is still green. This started in less than a week. We are now told that it doesn't stand much of a chance but to wait it out ?? We were also told to really deep water it. Our question is... Have we also jeopardized the "mother" tree. What has been your experience in moving "pups?" Any special treatment you can reccommend ? We live in North Scottsdale area. Any suggestion will help as this is a beautiful tree. Thanks Judi From bchorner@netzone.com Sat Oct 14 19:13:45 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 12:13:45 -0700 (MST) From: bchorner@netzone.com bchorner@netzone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When constructing hiking trails, sometimes we "must" remove a hedgehog or pincusion or a small barrel. We don't have a good time frame like we do at home to attend to the plants. What would be the proper method in transplanting any of the above. Thanks From hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Sat Oct 14 21:05:19 2000 Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:05:19 -0700 (MST) From: hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 22 year old grapefruit tree that is peeling it's bark and weeping. Until last November it was shaded by a pine tree. I suspect the sudden need to acclimate to direct sun this past summer has something to do with the distress. Several branches have withered and died this past summer. Is there anything I can do to stop the peeling, weeping and dying? I've already wrapped most of the branches in burlap. So far one side of the tree appears to be unaffected (the side that was most distant from the shading pine tree); it is bearing good fruit in abundance. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 15 05:09:15 2000 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 01:09:15 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Soil test Look in the yellow pages under Laboratories, Testing. Their listings will indicate if they test soils. I have used IAS Laboratories 2515 E. University, Phoenix several times and been very satisfied. Are you sure that your trees and plants are being watered adequately. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From doug007@ibm.net Sun Oct 15 18:24:02 2000 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 11:24:02 -0700 (MST) From: doug007@ibm.net doug007@ibm.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page disease of pyracantha, vine is dying in areas leaves are brown in areas. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 15 20:49:12 2000 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 16:49:12 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pyracantha with brown leaves Doug, Pyracantha is susceptable to Fireblight, Texas Root Rot, iron chlorosis, and will be short lived if the plant is root bound when planted. Since you didn't mention anything that looks like the branches were blowtorched the Fireblight is eliminated. Improper irrigation could cause the leaves to turn brown. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pacsmith@att.net Mon Oct 16 01:14:13 2000 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:14:13 -0700 (MST) From: pacsmith@att.net pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm fairly certain that our Chinese Elm died from Texas root rot. I had planned to take a sample to the Extension Service, but have been unable to get over there early Friday morning. Once the tree has been dead, is it still possible to analyze what killed it? Is Friday morning the only time I can have this done? Also, I am trying to decide what to plant in its place, something that will not be susceptible to root rot. Would Chilean mesquite be a good choice? My practice has been to deep water our trees for six or seven hours every seven to 10 days during the summer. Could this have had something to do with the root rot by keeping the soil to moist? From clydic@netzone.com Mon Oct 16 03:39:28 2000 Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:39:28 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help Hello Carlene, and welcome to the High Country! Our county extension agent, Chris Jones, is a great arborist and could help you. I'm not an expert on fruit trees, however, there are a number of orchards in the Payson area whose owners could assist. Feel free to contact me via e-mail or call the county extension office in Globe at 520) 425-7179 and talk with Chris; we should be able to give you some direction. Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 11:38 AM To: Carleneebr@aol.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help If you haven't already contacted your local Cooperative Extension Office and its Master Gardener staff, you're in for a treat. Although I believe your office is in Globe, if I read the map correctly there seems to be a satellite in Payson http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ I hope you didn't miss their gardening conference in Payson last September! One of our server members is a Master Gardener who lives up there, so I hope she sees this note and contacts you directly. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County Carleneebr@aol.com wrote: > This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 15:57:46 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:57:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying goards While I do not actually know the answer, I know exactly from whom to secure it. In our listing of Garden clubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm you will find links to the Southwest Gourd Association and fellow Master Gardener Frank Martin. They will be represented at the Fall Garden Fair down at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. See the listing for 10-28 at http://aquinas.agforbes.arizona.edu/garden/ They always have beautiful crafts on display. Linda Guy Master Gardener OLMTREE@aol.com wrote: > Madams and Sirs, > > We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them > in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be > very thankful. > > Page Olmsted > Olmtree@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:02:31 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:02:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus/Succulents Transplants from the Wild I really don't have a good suggestion for you, but since the Desert Botanical Garden does so much research and presumably culling out in the 'field', I wonder that they wouldn't be a very good resource for you. Their plant hotline is open M-F, 10 to 11:40 am at 480/941-1225. There are also undoubtedly issues related to laws protecting certain native plants, which you'll want to get familiar with. We have a summary on our website to get you started at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/native.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bchorner@netzone.com wrote: > When constructing hiking trails, sometimes we "must" remove a hedgehog or pincusion or a small barrel. We don't have a good time frame like we do at home to attend to the plants. What would be the proper method in transplanting any of the above. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dg.anderson@home.com Mon Oct 16 16:09:20 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:09:20 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my = yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching? ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can the grass clippings that I removed = by scalping=20 and de-thatching my yard be re-apply over rye seed as a=20 mulching?
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:19:55 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:19:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot Diagnosis The diagnostic meeting is for the Master Gardener volunteers and staff, not I am told, the general public. The reason you were told about the time was so that you could get the freshest possible material to the committee [ie cut it and deliver it on Thursday afternoon]. There is an area at the Master Gardener desk that is the collection point. You could also see if there's a satellite office nearby that might confirm your suspicion about TRR. Locations and office hours are posted on the same page where you placed your questions http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener pacsmith@att.net wrote: > I'm fairly certain that our Chinese Elm died from Texas root rot. I had planned to take a sample to the Extension Service, but have been unable to get over there early Friday morning. Once the tree has been dead, is it still possible to analyze what killed it? Is Friday morning the only time I can have this done? > Also, I am trying to decide what to plant in its place, something that will not be susceptible to root rot. Would Chilean mesquite be a good choice? > My practice has been to deep water our trees for six or seven hours every seven to 10 days during the summer. Could this have had something to do with the root rot by keeping the soil to moist? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:45:04 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:45:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Fruit Split This condition is usually thought to be a result of inappropriate watering practices. You can see a discussion of this under September's or October's Timely Tips at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/sept.htm The only recommendation is to study up on good irrigation practices [see AZ 1151 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus and implement them for next year's fruit production. Fertilization is recommended three times a year [Feb/Mar May/June Aug/Sept]. If your trees were not fertilized since 1999, perhaps that's an issue. I cannot comment on the foliar spray, not knowing what is was and for what purpose. Your tangelo may be more sensitive than the navel or grapefruit. It may also fare less well because they typically prefer a situation where cross-pollination is available [vs. self-pollination]. You might glean some other insights from our pub AZ 1001 discussing different citrus varieties, their strengths and weaknesses. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ayeolde@aol.com wrote: > my question is concerning fruit trees. Each season my tangerine tree loaded with fruit splits and falls to the ground to the tune of 50 or 60 a day. I have an navel orange tree and grapefruit. This never happens to them. They are equally watered and fed. What is wrong with my tangerine tree. I had a arborist spray, trim & fertilize in Feb, of '99. I could use some help. It's happening again. Thank you if you respond > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:34:30 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:34:30 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation and Planting Season Info You've asked some fairly broad questions to which I'll provide some general reference materials and guidance to get you started. Our Maricopa County Home Horticulture website is an excellent resource for you http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ as well as the Master Gardener Manual which is also online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ This is particularly helpful for determining irrigation needs. You are indeed correct that we have all at one time or another killed our plants with an overabundance of water, complicated by clay soil's tendency to hold same. It is so important to do deep waterings at the appropriate frequency [or infrequency, depending on the plant material] to leach harmful salts from the root zone as well as supply the correct amount of water. For planting time and other seasonal gardening chores, as well as help diagnosing problems typically arising in the month in question, Timely Tips is a big help. Our list of publications [select Maricopa County on screen 2] helps with specific guidance by garden topic; some publications are online. Others are sometimes found in the reference section of the public library in call code 635. All can be ordered with instructions found on the publications page. Other watering resources include those of the city of Phoenix http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/treeshrb.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html which we helped to prepare Hope this gets you growing. Linda Guy Master Gardener gagacha@aol.com wrote: > I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. > Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? > > Thands much for reading my questions > Heather > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 16 17:16:33 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:16:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Texas Root Rot Some of the symptoms of TRR are a very rapid decline of the tree, frequently a week or less; the leaves will hang on to the tree; also one or more branches are frequently affected leaving one or more branches with green leaves. Sometimes there will be a white to tan spore mass near the trunk. Yes, you can bring in a root sample to the Cooperative Extension after the tree is dead, for an examination, and this can be done on any working day. Keep the root sample as fresh as possible, do not wash, place in a plastic bag and keep in the refrigerator until it is brought in. Before you plant any tree in the site that is known to have TRR the site should be treated with a chemical such as Vapam unless you plant a palm which is immune to TRR. The Chilean Mesquite would be a good choice or any other desert adapted tree that is resistant to TRR. Your watering practice was on target for summer watering in the low desert. I usually test the soil at the end of the irrigation interval to make sure that the soil is not too wet by using a probe inserted into the ground. Yes, an over wet soil condition is an invitation for the TRR fungi to become active. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 16 22:30:44 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 15:30:44 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying goards I am a novice at this myself but I am following the advice from the New Mexico Cooperative Extension Service at http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/yard/1996/111896.html except I am not drilling holes. I believe that would only be indicated for the large gourds. Olin ============== The first consideration is good air circulation. Place them in a place with good air circulation all around them. This air should be dry, but here in New Mexico that is the easy part. Don't let the gourds touch each other while they are drying. This helps the air circulation and to prevent the spread of rot if some do begin to rot. The surface on which they rest should not hold moisture. A wire mesh surface would be the best, but a table top is also adequate. Turning them periodically helps them to dry and allows you to detect rot early and dispose of affected gourds. Now the hard part. It can take six or more months for them to dry properly. Some people will drill pinholes at the ends of the fruit to speed the drying process, but even so, it takes many months. Be patient. Be sure the gourds are mature before harvest. Leave them on the vines as long as possible to mature. Gourds harvested before they are sufficiently mature will be much more likely to rot before drying. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------- Southwest Yard & Garden Main | 2000 | 1999 | 1998 | 1997 | 1996 | Submit Question | Search ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid gardener server" Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 8:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying goards > While I do not actually know the answer, I know exactly from whom to secure it. > In our listing of Garden clubs at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm > you will find links to the Southwest Gourd Association and fellow Master > Gardener Frank Martin. > > They will be represented at the Fall Garden Fair down at Maricopa County > Cooperative Extension. See the listing for 10-28 at > http://aquinas.agforbes.arizona.edu/garden/ > They always have beautiful crafts on display. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > OLMTREE@aol.com wrote: > > > Madams and Sirs, > > > > We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them > > in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be > > very thankful. > > > > Page Olmsted > > Olmtree@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From yiayia1@prodigy.net Tue Oct 17 01:13:06 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:13:06 -0700 (MST) From: yiayia1@prodigy.net yiayia1@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Chi Chi Ruellia looks awfully ratty now. Should we be pruning it back and where can we find a book that tells when and how to prune plants in Arizona? We've bought several books, including the Sunset Gardening in the Southwest book but we have yet to find a definitive book on care for all the plants listed. We would really appreciate your assistance. Also, we used to grow roses in the Northeast, but we have yet to find a good source for rose bushes out here. HELP!! Thanks, Connie & Andrew Georghiou From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 02:31:09 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:31:09 -0700 (MST) From: andysan37@hotmail.com andysan37@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 02:34:38 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:34:38 -0700 (MST) From: andysan37@hotmail.com andysan37@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page From tawneyto@citlink.net Tue Oct 17 02:40:42 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:40:42 -0700 (MST) From: tawneyto@citlink.net tawneyto@citlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How and when do you prune AZ bird of paradise bush. Does it require alot of water. From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 17 02:48:17 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:48:17 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Try PRUNING, PLANTING AND CARE - JOHNSON'S GUIDE TO GARDENING PLANTS FOR THE ARID WEST BY Eric A Johnson. I think Borders carries it. I know that Amazon.com does. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of yiayia1@prodigy.net Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 6:13 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Chi Chi Ruellia looks awfully ratty now. Should we be pruning it back and where can we find a book that tells when and how to prune plants in Arizona? We've bought several books, including the Sunset Gardening in the Southwest book but we have yet to find a definitive book on care for all the plants listed. We would really appreciate your assistance. Also, we used to grow roses in the Northeast, but we have yet to find a good source for rose bushes out here. HELP!! Thanks, Connie & Andrew Georghiou _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 17 03:42:35 2000 Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:42:35 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Plant care for new comers to the low desert Connie and Andrew, I'm not familiar with the variety chi chi Ruella, however I grow three other varieties of Ruella all of which do not look their best in the winter, but they all are still looking great. Could it be that your irrigation is not on target ? My favorite book for info on plant care and the merits of most of the plants that grow in the low desert is PLANTS FOR DRY CLIMATES by Duffield and Jones. You asked about a supplier for roses. My favorite rose nurseries are Berridge Nursery, 4647 E. Camelback, Phoenix who stock their bareroot roses in sawdust bins so that buyers can inspect the roots, and Harpers Nursery who sell only potted roses and have locations in Scottsdale and Mesa The Master Gardener Manual is probably one of the best if not the best and most comprehensive books available and it is all on line. You will find info on pruning at the following: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html >From there you can access the index for a listing of all the info available in this book which is the basis for the master gardener training. If you intend to plant roses I would recommend that you visit and become a member of one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley. Be my guest at the Mesa East Valley Rose Society rose show which will be held on November 18 at Mesa Comunity College Student Center from 1.00 to 4.00 PM. While there visit the over 3000 bush rose garden, the largest public rose garden in the Southwest, and if you have questions about growing roses there will be several Consulting Rosarians available. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Oct 17 16:39:06 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:39:06 EDT From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowering Vines I recently purchased a park model in Superstition Sunrise Luxury R.V. Resort, locate in Apache Junction, Az. It's has a Cement block wall behind it. I want to plant a fast growing, flowering, vine that will cover the cement block wall, but don't know what will grown in that area.I live in Michigan, and only live in Apache Junction, Az. in the winter months.Found a letter you wrote, on the internet, and noted - you live in A.Z.and are a Master Gardener Volunteer. Hope you can help. Second letter received with more information. My first reply suggested bougainvillea and requested more information. Earnests reply is below. I forgot to tell him the various zones that are applicable for this area. Jean Subj: Re: Flowering Vines Date: 10/15/00 5:06:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Earnest@Centurytel.net (Ernie Humphrey) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com The Wall I Speak of, is on the EAST end of my Lot. The plants would be exposed to the North, South, and West Sun. The Grass on the other side of the Wall is Watered in the AM and again in the PM, each time they water the lawn there is about 2" of water in the grass before it seeps away. We are only planing on being there Jan., Feb., and Mar. at least this winter - {this will be our 1st. year of retirement}. Yes , go ahead and forward this letter to the Arid Gardener Board so that other Master Gardeners may be able to help me find something too: Thank you so Very much From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Oct 17 17:09:30 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:09:30 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowering Vines The first vine I thought of was Cat's Claw. I use this at home, and you can see pictures of it on my website (listed below), if you would like. It will devour the fence once it is established, for me that was the 2nd year. I do have to prune it back on the other side of the fence, once per year. In the spring it is completely covered with beautiful yellow, trumpet shaped flowers, about 2 to 3 inches long. There is occasional and spuradic bloom there after. Very east to prune, and once established takes very little water. You will not need to use a latice or any thing to hold it up, except maybe some string the first year. Once it catches hold, it climbs up with now problem. It is not even phased by heat, and I enjoy it, because it looks so lush and green, even in desert landscaping. Mine gets drip irrigation about once a week, but with the sprinklers on the other side of the fence, I don't think you'll have to much trouble once it's established. If you are planting it on your side of the fence you might want to water it while your their the first year. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > I recently purchased a park model in Superstition Sunrise Luxury R.V. > Resort, locate in Apache Junction, Az. It's has a Cement block wall behind > it. I want to plant a fast growing, flowering, vine that will cover the > cement block wall, but don't know what will grown in that area.I live in > Michigan, and only live in Apache Junction, Az. in the winter months.Found a > letter you wrote, on the internet, and noted - you live in A.Z.and are a > Master Gardener Volunteer. > > Hope you can help. > > Second letter received with more information. My first reply suggested > bougainvillea and requested more information. Earnests reply is below. I > forgot to tell him the various zones that are applicable for this area. Jean > > Subj: Re: Flowering Vines > Date: 10/15/00 5:06:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: Earnest@Centurytel.net (Ernie Humphrey) > To: JeanSciFi@aol.com > > The Wall I Speak of, is on the EAST end of my Lot. The plants would be > exposed to the North, South, and West Sun. The Grass on the other side of > the Wall is Watered in the AM and again in the PM, each time they water the > lawn there is about 2" of water in the grass before it seeps away. We are > only planing on being there Jan., Feb., and Mar. at least this winter - > {this will be our 1st. year of retirement}. Yes , go ahead and forward this > letter to the Arid Gardener Board so that other Master Gardeners may be > able to help me find something too: > > Thank you so Very much > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 18:40:44 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:40:44 -0700 (MST) From: andysan37@hotmail.com andysan37@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. And what is the normal water schedule? From pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Oct 17 18:47:03 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:47:03 -0700 From: Patti Baciewicz pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: goat head stickers We are still inundated with them. Apparently you need to get the whole root out, or the more the better. They will take longer to come back. The only solution I came up with is hand picking. It is taking years with no end in sight. I've used Roundup and they will die off, but I swear they still come back. I am no expert except for my experiences with them. I will cc your question to our master gardeners, they should be able to help. Good luck! patti B. At 06:04 PM 10/17/2000 +0000, you wrote: >Hi, Patti. My name is Susan Reich. I was trying to find information on >Goat Heads on the internet and came across a web page with cinversation >between you and others about these stickers. I hope you're still at this >address. > >My husband and I just bought a house in COlorado and we will be >landscaping the back yard in the spring...we hope. Our property in the >back is full of these goat head stickers, however. I'm trying to find out >how to get rid of them so we can plant grass seed or sod in the >spring. We were hoping to use Round-Up or something along that line to >steralize the ground, then till it under, but after hearing how hardy >these weeds are, I'm wondering if that will work. > >If you have any information on getting rid of these weeds, or any helpful >advise, I would really appreciate it! > >Thank you! >Susan Reich >bonesreich@hotmail.com >_________________________________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > >Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at >http://profiles.msn.com. > From HRB85373@aol.com Tue Oct 17 20:48:45 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:48:45 -0700 (MST) From: HRB85373@aol.com HRB85373@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have found wounds on the branches of my orange tree about 5-6 feet above the grounds. Looks like something eating at the bark, yet can see no teeth marks. Down to the white wood under the outer bark. 2 to 3 inches in length, 1 -2 inches wide. Some smaller. Any ideas? Thanks! From emardick@brg.com Tue Oct 17 23:02:09 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 16:02:09 -0700 From: Ella Mardick emardick@brg.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] cats claw How deep does Cats Claw roots grow/travel ? Am interested in possibly planting this near a leach bed and septic tank which are in use. Also, is this plant poisonous to animals (horses)? From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 17 23:29:42 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 16:29:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My Xeriscape leaflet that I picked up at one of the garden centers says this about Bird of Paradise: "Provide deep watering every two weeks while blooming in order to prolong flowering and keep plants healthy" "Chlorosis can occur in heavy soils but is easily treated with iron chelate. The deciduous varieties can be pruned back severely during the winter when they are dormat and new growth will occur in the spring. This pruning will also keep the form more round and compact." I hope this helps. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of andysan37@hotmail.com Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 11:41 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. And what is the normal water schedule? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 00:29:20 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:29:20 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Bird of Paradise If you are referring to the Red Bird of Paradise ( Caesalpinia pulcherrima ), the plant with all the orange red blossoms, you can cut it back after it stops blooming. I usually cut back about 1/3 of the total height, however the amount that you cut back is up to you. Some people will cut back to 6 inches high. Once the plant is etablished ( 2 years ) watering once a month should be adequate in the summer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 00:29:13 2000 Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:29:13 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:African Sumac with yellow leaves Yellow leaves can indicate either too much water or not enough. The leaf drop can indicate a stress which would probably mean that the tree has not been getting enough water. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If you still have questions please get back to me. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From petermarshall@uswest.net Wed Oct 18 07:07:46 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:07:46 -0700 (MST) From: petermarshall@uswest.net petermarshall@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! I have 2 Grapefruit trees that appear to be being ravaged by some disease of some sort. Half of each tree is now completely brown and seemingly dead. It started out limb by limb. The bark is peeling away on all the affected limbs and dripping sap. Do you have any ideas on what's ailing my trees and how to cure the problem. If it is a parasite or pest problem, are there any ways to cure the problem without the use of pesticides? I would really appreciate your help. Thanks. Peter From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Wed Oct 18 15:05:30 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:05:30 -0700 (PDT) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] bird/paradise I usually cut mine back to about 10-12 inches in Jan. Watering during the HOT summer every 7-10 days and 2-3 weeks in the winter --- andysan37@hotmail.com wrote: > When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. > And what is the normal water schedule? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://im.yahoo.com/ From lnovack@prodigy.net Wed Oct 18 15:46:52 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:46:52 -0700 (MST) From: lnovack@prodigy.net lnovack@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm a recent widow livungthe Queen Creek Area. My husband took care of all our outdoor needs to I'm starting from scratch so to speak. I have several Queen Palms. They have a lot of brown fronds and in general do not look too happy. I have a bag of Vigoro for Palm, Ixora and Ornamentals. It is a 9-4-9 plus minors mixture. If you could advise me on how to use it, the watering of the trees, etc. I would surely appreaite it. Thank you. Lorraine Novack From tandm3543@aol.com Wed Oct 18 15:48:21 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:48:21 -0700 (MST) From: tandm3543@aol.com tandm3543@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page like to know when to cut my grapes back and how far to cut them back From gsboucher@home.com Wed Oct 18 16:22:25 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 09:22:25 -0700 (MST) From: gsboucher@home.com gsboucher@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? From dddhb@aol.com Wed Oct 18 18:04:12 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:04:12 -0700 (MST) From: dddhb@aol.com dddhb@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What can I do to help my Italian Cypress trees? I have 5 and two are splitting from the top. They are approximately 20 feet tall and two of the trees are splitting into two trunks (down about 7 feet). They are also turning dry and brown. From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 18 18:57:05 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:57:05 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Grapes ----- Original Message ----- From: > like to know when to cut my grapes back and how far to cut them back ====================================================== Following are the recommendations for pruning grapes in the low desert scanned from Maricopa County Fact Sheet MC 59, "Backyard grapes" -Olin Pruning Mature Plants - Long Cane System Handle anytime from early January into early February. From the main trunk on cane pruned varieties (Thompson seedless, Black Monukka and Concord) select 4 canes which are smooth and light tan in color. Have two of these canes near the top of the vine and two farther down on the main trunk. Cut back these four canes so that only 12 to 15 buds remain on each cane. These will be the fruiting canes. Then select four more canes, one below each fruiting cane and cut back to two buds. These will be the renewal spurs and will provide the canes one will select from the following year for fruiting canes. When the grapes are pruned in late winter some bleeding may occur at these cuts. Canes will normally tolerate this. Improper dormant pruning will eliminate its ability to bear grapes for that season. Pruning Mature Plants - Cordon System Varieties such as Perlette, Flame seedless, Cardinal and Exotic are trained to cordons which consist of two permanent arms extending two to two and a out horizontally from the head of the vine. These cordons must be trained on a wire initially but become rigid and self supporting by the 3rd or 4th year. Buds on these cordons will produce upright shoot growth (spurs) which is thinned to 6 to 7 spurs per arm or 12 to 14 total for the vine. The pruning of cordon trained vines is simply cutting all cane growth produced the previous summer except two buds (the spur) extending above the main cordon arm. These spurs, each two buds long, will produce the crop that season. The spurs will extend higher above the cordon arm each season. As two buds are added to their total length. From rc_42@hotmail.com Wed Oct 18 20:53:19 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:53:19 -0700 (MST) From: rc_42@hotmail.com rc_42@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 18 21:51:55 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 14:51:55 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Staking ----- Original Message ----- From: > I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? ======================== Pub. AZ1022 ( "Planting Guidlines, Container trees and Shrubs") contains recommendations for staking. See: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf for the complete publication. The text of the staking section follows: Staking Trees Stake trees only if they cannot stand without support or if threatened by wind, frost heaving, or similar problems. I. Use only two stakes. Place them outside the root ball and irrigation well at right angles to the prevailing wind (see detail). Make sure stakes penetrate undisturbed soil at least six inches. 2. To determine the height to place the ties, hold trunk with one hand a few inches above ground. If trunk bends over, move up the trunk a few inches and try again. Continue until you find the lowest point on trunk at which it will not bend. Place ties about six inches above this point. Use one set of ties only. 3. Horticultural tape can be used to tie small trees. Tie wire and webbing can be used on larger trees with thick bark. if using tie wire and reinforced garden hose, thread wire through the hose as shown. The garden hose should be just long enough to loop around the trunk. Twist wires to keep the garden hose from moving along the wire. The trunk should not move inside the garden hose loop. Fasten wires to stake so the cut ends are between the stake and the tree, not exposed on the outside of the stake. Twist wires to tighten. There should be enough slack to allow the trunk and garden hose to move as a unit. Cut the stakes off below the canopy to prevent wounds to branches. Inspect and loosen wires periodically as the tree grows to avoid girdling the trunk. Remove stakes as soon as possible, generally within a year . From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 22:18:47 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 18:18:47 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cypress trees splitting from top I don't have enough info to make a recommendation for your Cypress trees. I would suggest that you call in an arborist for an appraisal since you may have a hazardous situation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 23:50:25 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:50:25 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Palm tree care Lorraine, There is an excellent bulletin on line on palm tree care at; http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Palms should be fertilized with a fertilizer for palm trees which includes the micro nutrients manganese, magnesium, and iron and applied three to four times of year starting in Feb and ending in October. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Be sure that you are watering properly. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Thu Oct 19 03:00:56 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 20:00:56 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Staking Hi - I've been confused about this myself, having also bought a Chilean mesquite about 3 years ago. The nursery said the same thing and then I read to not stake it. I took the stake out after the first year and ended up staking it again because I was concerned about it blowing over during a storm since the roots weren't all that well-developed and it did an awful lot of bending in the wind. My husband pounded the original stake back into the ground where it was earlier and we used my old stockings to tie the tree to the stake. (The stockings are good because they are strong, stretch as the tree grows and also have a little bit of 'give' - thereby preventing any cutting into the bark.) I guess my plan worked because the tree is doing very well and doesn't appear to be in jeopardy of falling over. I removed the ties a few months ago, but left the stake - just in case it wasn't ready yet. But it has weathered the few storms we've had with no problem. I think that it is recommended to remove the stakes because the tree bending in the wind makes the trunk stronger. But if it bends too much ---- BOOOOOM. (Keep in mind that I'm not a master gardener - just someone who learns from an awful lot of experiences.) Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Olin Miller Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 2:52 PM To: rc_42@hotmail.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Tree Staking ----- Original Message ----- From: > I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? ======================== Pub. AZ1022 ( "Planting Guidlines, Container trees and Shrubs") contains recommendations for staking. See: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf for the complete publication. The text of the staking section follows: Staking Trees Stake trees only if they cannot stand without support or if threatened by wind, frost heaving, or similar problems. I. Use only two stakes. Place them outside the root ball and irrigation well at right angles to the prevailing wind (see detail). Make sure stakes penetrate undisturbed soil at least six inches. 2. To determine the height to place the ties, hold trunk with one hand a few inches above ground. If trunk bends over, move up the trunk a few inches and try again. Continue until you find the lowest point on trunk at which it will not bend. Place ties about six inches above this point. Use one set of ties only. 3. Horticultural tape can be used to tie small trees. Tie wire and webbing can be used on larger trees with thick bark. if using tie wire and reinforced garden hose, thread wire through the hose as shown. The garden hose should be just long enough to loop around the trunk. Twist wires to keep the garden hose from moving along the wire. The trunk should not move inside the garden hose loop. Fasten wires to stake so the cut ends are between the stake and the tree, not exposed on the outside of the stake. Twist wires to tighten. There should be enough slack to allow the trunk and garden hose to move as a unit. Cut the stakes off below the canopy to prevent wounds to branches. Inspect and loosen wires periodically as the tree grows to avoid girdling the trunk. Remove stakes as soon as possible, generally within a year . _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KimoBimo@aol.com Thu Oct 19 05:49:47 2000 Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:49:47 -0700 (MST) From: KimoBimo@aol.com KimoBimo@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My question pertains to pomegranate trees/shrubs. Should I be concerned with future root problems with pomegranate trees planted too close to the house foundation? I have both a dwarf pomegranate and what now seems to be a 8'+ pomegranate tree. No problem with digging them both up now since they are less than 3 years old before incurring major damage to my house's foundation. Thanks very much for your advice. 10/18/00 From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Oct 19 08:12:30 2000 Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:12:30 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] question - acacia A neighbor has a 6 year old Australian Acacia that I believe is called the "Golden Wattle Acacia" - short tree about 15 feet tall and wide with multi trunks. Long thin "leaves" similar to the Willow Leaf Acacia, but a brighter green color. Blooms in Spring with lots of bright yellow flowers. Recently the tree has shown serious and severe stress symtons, with about 50%+ of leaves brown and falling off the tree - went downhill almost overnight. Stems and branches ranging from twigs to 2 inch diamter seem to be sunburned black and dead or dying scattered all over the tree. The live leaves look fine and do not seem to be continuing to die. In fact, there are some new buds and new growth appearing on the still living branches. As usual with many landscaper installed trees in Phoenix, the 1original drip emitter is close to the trunk and only puts out a couple of gallons a week. The tree does get water from other shrubs and flowerbeds within its dripline. The tree has never been fertilized or treated with any other chemicals - in fact, until recently this was always a thriving, lush tree for these homeowners. Does anyone recognize this species and these symptons? I did read that some acacia species are "short-lived", but not sure exactly what this means and if this species is inlcued in this description. Any suggestions or input would be welcome. My friends are trying to decide whether to cut the tree down and start over, or to try and salvage the tree. Mike Hills mhills@seedsolutions.com From hrb85373@aol.com Thu Oct 19 15:41:19 2000 Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:41:19 -0700 (MST) From: hrb85373@aol.com hrb85373@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I notice my message the other day on citrus orange tree was not completly written: I have wounds on the bark about 5 feet above the ground, some as large as 3 inches long, 2 inches wide, down to the white wood. Can see no teeth marks from a rodent. What would it be? Thanks! From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Oct 19 22:03:19 2000 Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 15:03:19 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Failed Garden, More Clues Thanks for the response. I will provide a better description: My garden, I planted it around August 15th didn't do very well. It was my first attempt. I built two 4'x4' containers out of concrete block and painted the inside so the water wouldn't whick out. I bought some planting soil, a sort of sandy clay with wood chips and mixed it with 20% cow manure. It drains well and even after heavy rains I can still dig through it with my hands. I watered with drip, soaker hoses set up on a timer. Sometimes the surface would dry out but the soil was always damp. Damp enough to form a clod when squeezed. The garden gets sun until around 3PM when the neighbor's tree shades it. The plants, corn and snap beans were stunted. When I pulled them up, the roots on the snap beans were small and brown, "stubby" would be a good description. The corn didn't have a lot of roots either. I planted lettuce, but that didn't come up at all. I've got a lot of things that might have cause my problems: It was too hot when I planted, I over watered or under watered, the steer manure was too green, the wood chips ate up the nitrogen, and there are probably things I'm not thinking of. I'm not sure of where to start. From marketresource@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 20:18:42 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 13:18:42 -0700 (MST) From: marketresource@uswest.net marketresource@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page All of my fall vegetables are coming up and are doing better with the falling temps. the white flies, which I could not control are declining. The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 20 22:24:26 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 18:24:26 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Failed Garden, More Clues Jim, You didn't say where you live, but if you live in the low desert( elevation 1000 to 2000 feet ) You planted your garden at the wrong time of year. In Arizona low desert we have fall and winter vegetables and spring and summer vegetables each of which must be planted at the proper time of year in order for them to florish. The beans and corn should be planted between Feb 15 and Mar 15; the lettuce from Sept 1 to Mar 1. You did a lot of work to prepare a good planting bed. You were pretty much on target on the things that you thought could be wrong especially the green manure and the wood chips that were not composted. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on vegetables which is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:37:03 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:37:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabbage Loopers? When you are having problems, a good place to start is the Timely Tips section of our website. In the month of October, you'll see several insect pest references, one of which is probably your culprit: cabbage loopers http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm If you use the link to cabbage loopers that is on that page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/looper.htm you'll find the suggestion to use Bt, which is a biological control that is recommended for caterpillars in general. Linda Guy Master Gardener marketresource@uswest.net wrote: > All of my fall vegetables are coming up and are doing better with the falling temps. the white flies, which I could not control are declining. The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:45:51 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:45:51 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wax Myrtle I could not find a reference to 'wax' myrtle but if this is a shrub [myrtus] and not a groundcover [vinca] the Sunset Western Garden Book lists them both as growing in our zone 13 for Phoenix. Linda Guy Master Gardener gsboucher@home.com wrote: > Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:49:25 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:49:25 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocados The plant might grow here, particularly as a container plant, but I don't believe that it fruits in our climate. The Sunset Western Garden book did not refer to male and female plants. A good source of information would be the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers, which is listed on our website in the garden clubs section. http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Linda Guy Master Gardener rconklin@trip.net wrote: > We have recently purchased land in South Texas. I remember as a child my mother taking an avocado seed puting it in water until it roots and planting it into a pot. It grew into a beautiful plant. I've rooted two and wanted to know if planted in the ground will they produce avocados and if, as other fruit trees, you need two. I'd appreciate any information you can give me. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:54:03 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:54:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde sucker It is unlikely the mother tree is impacted, but without a more vibrant root zone, I wouldn't guess there's a lot of hope for the 'youngster'. Trees rely on the tiny feeder roots for water uptake, and it doesn't sound like you retrieved much if any of these. Continue the deep watering practice [to three feet every other week] and see if you can retrieve it. The drip should be located at the canopy drip line, and there should be more than one for a tree this size. Irrigation practices are well discussed in the relevant chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ By next March, when most desert natives start leafing out, you should be able to tell if you were able to save the tree. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener JDymndol@aol.com wrote: > 10/5 we had a landscaping company work with our front yard. They determined that one of the smaller foothill palo verdes could re re-located. When this smaller palo verde was dug up it turned out it was a "pup" or "sucker" with only one root to the "mother tree" It is about the size of a 36" box palo verde. It was replanted with a drip system. Itis not looking well. The branches are drying out although the trunk is still green. This started in less than a week. We are now told that it doesn't stand much of a chance but to wait it out ?? We were also told to really deep water it. Our question is... Have we also jeopardized the "mother" tree. What has been your experience in moving "pups?" Any special treatment you can reccommend ? We live in North Scottsdale area. Any suggestion will help as this is a beautiful tree. Thanks Judi > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:04:05 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:04:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit in Distress Since the grapefruit had the cool season to begin its acclimation process to a more sunny locale, I'm not sure this is the specific cause. However, the limbs and crotches of the grapefruit are susceptible to Rio Grande Gummosis whose symptoms are gumming with noticable bark separation but no lateral bark rotting from the point of origin. This is largely a symptom of old age and there is no treatment for the condition, just removal of the dried gum. My reference material says that the tree will rarely die, though it will look decidedly unhealthy. Your best course of action is to treat the tree with the best possible care. We have a number of citrus publications, some of which are online. Consult our list of home horticulture publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net wrote: > I have a 22 year old grapefruit tree that is peeling it's bark and weeping. Until last November it was shaded by a pine tree. I suspect the sudden need to acclimate to direct sun this past summer has something to do with the distress. Several branches have withered and died this past summer. Is there anything I can do to stop the peeling, weeping and dying? I've already wrapped most of the branches in burlap. So far one side of the tree appears to be unaffected (the side that was most distant from the shading pine tree); it is bearing good fruit in abundance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:06:57 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:06:57 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Decline I don't believe we have enough information to help you diagnose your situation, or that of your citrus trees. Watering is a very critical element, and is well discussed in our publication AZ 1151 which you can reference at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener adventure@inficad.com wrote: > Why didn't I get fruit this year on my trees? I have an orange, grapefruit, and tangelo tree. I fertilized according to schedule but all I got were green, medium sized oranges, no grapefruit, and tiny black, hard as a rock, tangelos. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:17:06 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:17:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asian Pear Decline You might consider reading up on your Asian pear in Sunset Western Garden Book. This is a deciduous tree, and it could be that this is the annual seasonal loss of leaves. However, with a blossom in the fall, perhaps it is getting its seasons confused from being moved indoors and out. I would like to direct you to the diagnostic section of our indoor plant guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Its pub AZ 1025 under house plants/greenhouse If you are interested in having it fruit, it is not a self-pollinating tree. They need pollination by a second variety of by a Bartlett european pear. Many deciduous fruits require a winter chilling time that is expressed in hours required, although I am not sure what the Asian pear needs. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Furst, Beverly" wrote: > Asian pear; fruiting. We have just moved it outside. Some of the leaves > are black edged and will eventually fall off. The rest looks healthy and it > has a blossom. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:46 AM > To: bfurst@azheart.com > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > What type of pear? Ornamental or fruiting? > > bfurst@azheart.com wrote: > > > I have a 6" potted pear tree in my foyer. When can I put it outside and > why is it getting black edged leaves that fall off. It has new shoots and > looks healthy otherwise. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:23:36 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:23:36 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wallflower decline I am not familiar with this specific plant here in Phoenix, but the Sunset Western Garden Book does not list them as viable in our zone 13 climate. Since the Bowles Mauve is said to 'bloom itself to death' after a few short years, it may be that you cannot treat these plants as perennials in our locale. If you can bend a limb without snapping it, there may yet be life. If it breaks, it has probably succumbed. Linda Guy Master Gardener RAJ@uswest.net wrote: > Dietes and Bowle's Mauve Wallflower have been brown for several months. How do I tell if they are dead or just resting between seasons? They were newly planted in the spring and are on the drip system. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:27:29 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:27:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Recommendations You don't give sufficient information to supply a good answer. We'd need to know how large a space you have, the exposure, whether you want evergreen or deciduous, native or adapted, flowering, how much watering you are willing to provide, etc. We have a list of publications related to trees in the ornamentals section of our publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener currens123@aol.com wrote: > Trees without thorns that will do well in Buckeye. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:33:15 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:33:15 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Native Plants I make it a point NOT to do so, since there is little to speak of in the wild and I'm not looking to generate more pruning material to haul to the local landfills. I don't know that this is entirely correct, but the training in home landscape design I took several years ago at the DBG provided similar information. Judy Mielke, author of Native Plants for SW Landscapes echoes the sentiment. "Native[s]... have evolved in soils with very little nitrogen content so it is not critical to provide fertilizer to the plants." Exception could be to speed growth of new, young plants, keeping in mind that more growth requires more of that other very important desert fertilizer, H20! Linda Guy Master Gardener dckelly@sedona.net wrote: > Should your fertilize native plants such as salvia greggii. If so, what kind of fertilizer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jrgarizona@yahoo.com Fri Oct 20 23:54:30 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:54:30 -0700 (MST) From: jrgarizona@yahoo.com jrgarizona@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 2 ficus nitida planted about 4 feet from my house that is built on a slab founda- tion. I was told that they should be moved because they are too close to the house and will eventually crack the foundation with its roots. Is this true? The trees are 2 years old and healthy. They are about 15 ft. high now. Can they be successfully moved? From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:49:44 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:49:44 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herbs, etc. Most perennial herbs do well if planted now [Oct-Nov]. The air is cooling, but the soil is still warm enough to encourage root development to set the plant in a better position to withstand its first summer in Phoenix. You can have success with early spring plantings, but the odds favor you in autumn. One perennial that is planted springtime is tarragon, which is dormant in winter here. Annuals that are planted in the cool season [meaning now] include cilantro, dill, cumin, borage, parsley [technically a biennial], chamomile, anise, . Summer annuals [planted spring] include basil, epazote, sesame, chia and amaranth. Basil is sold now, and if kept in a very protected area in full sun, can survive a mild winter in Phoenix. First frost will blacken all exposed leaves, however. Lavenders, and other mediterranean herbs, are notorious for hating to have their feet wet. Once established, they almost thrive on neglect. Could you have killed them with kindness? Or did you plant it too close to the heat of the summer, meaning it was unable to establish itself in time for the 'furnace?' The Arizona Herb Assn has a delightful pamphlet on herb gardening. Check them out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm There are several organic gardening and farming catalogs, such as Peaceful Valley and Gardens Alive, as well as Organic Gardening magazine; all have websites for you to consult. Linda Guy Master Gardner bobbsorg@email.msn.com wrote: > I am trying to find out when to plant herbs outside. I have some planted inside and want to transplant them. Also, can they be planted directly outside in full sun??? > > I had a lavendar plant that was planted for months -- went through more than half of the summer and then died. What did I do wrong? Actually, what should I have done to keep it alive. > > Any tips on herbs would be helfpul. > > Is there a natural way to get rid of insects on plants? > > Are there are grants available re: natural insect control -- both on plants and in homes -- who would I need to contact on this?? > > Thank you in advance for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:55:03 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:55:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Meyers Lemon Leaf Drop Your problem doesn't sound that severe, but I would like to direct you to our discussion on citrus leaf drop and possible causes at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm I hope this is helpful to you. By the way, did you know that Meyers is now illegal [and therefore no longer available] in Arizona because it is a carrier of citrus tristeza virus? It is a devastating disease of other citrus trees. Linda Guy Master Gardener kathygeb@home.com wrote: > Meyer's lemon tree is loosing leaves on same branch. Lost seven leaves in one night. Leaves are still green, no apparent reason. Could you please tell me what the problem could be? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Mama_Cupani@juno.com Sat Oct 21 04:08:44 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 21:08:44 -0700 (MST) From: Mama_Cupani@juno.com Mama_Cupani@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a plant growing in my vegetable garden that I am hoping you can help me identify. I really like it and would like to transplant it, but I need an idea of how big it's going to get. I'm pretty sure it's not a vegetable! The plant is about 2 years old now, and about 2 feet tall. Rather sprawling with small thorns and a woody base. It has deep, solid green, serrated, heart-shaped leaves. It kind of reminds me of a bouganvilla. It has never bloomed. I have taken a couple of pictures that I could send if you would supply me an e-mail address (to send attachments). I would really appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you, Shirley Cupani From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 21 05:31:57 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 22:31:57 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wax Myrtle in Phoenix ----- Original Message ----- From: > Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? ======================== Wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) is cold hardy in USDA Zones 8-11 and it should do okay in Phoenix (Zone 9). Following info is from Bruce Miller Nursery at http://brucemillerfarm.com Myrica cerifera Common Name : wax myrtle Hardiness Zone(s) Preferred: 8, 9, 10, 11 Plant Origin : Native to Texas Plant Group(s): Tree, Shrub Planting Use(s) Recommended: Screen, Patio Tree, Naturalizing, Hedge, Border, Specimen Plant Light Exposure(s) Preferred: Full Sun, Part Sun/shade Soil Type(s) Preferred: Sandy, Well-Drained, Wet, Alkaline, Drought/Dry, Clay, Tolerates Acid Salt Tolerance: High Height : 15 - 25 Feet Spread : 10 - 15 Feet Shape(s): Vase, Rounded Growth Rate(s): Fast Flower Color(s): Green Flower Characteristics: Insignificant flowers, Spring flowers Fruit Color(s): Blue Fruit Characteristics: Insignificant fruit Leaf Characteristics: Evergreen Leaf Texture: Fine Leaf Color(s): Green Outstanding Fall Color: Bark/Limb Characteristics: Showy bark, Has no thorns, Resists breakage Winter Interest : No From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 21 05:46:56 2000 Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 22:46:56 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Inch Worm Control Try Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) a bacteria that works as a stomach poisoning on most worms. Available trade names are Dipel, Thuricide, etc. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > ...The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? From nan85048@aol.com Sat Oct 21 18:02:35 2000 Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 11:02:35 -0700 (MST) From: nan85048@aol.com nan85048@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm thinking of planting a climbing vine in a pot on my east facing patio. I want to put a trellis inside the pot with the plant. Any suggestions on what plant I should look at. I'd like to try something rather hardy and hard to kill. It can grow up to 8 feet tall b/4 I need to trim it. Thanks lots for any help I can get! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 22 00:04:59 2000 Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 20:04:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ficus nitida, moving Yes the Ficus nitida can cause problems with causing concrete to heave. The source of your info was accurate in that the trees should be moved. The months of Nov, Dec, or Jan would be the best time to move them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From vballprincess4@hotmail.com Sun Oct 22 00:09:43 2000 Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 17:09:43 -0700 (MST) From: vballprincess4@hotmail.com vballprincess4@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How do I get my poinsettas to rebloom?? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 22 04:48:20 2000 Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 21:48:20 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page It's usually not worth the trouble but if the plant is still healthy it might work out if you begin early enough. Starting October 1 (about 3 weeks ago), the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night. Place the plant in a totally dark room, or cover with a large box that will not let in any light.. During October, November and early December, poinsettias require about 6 hours of bright sunlight daily with night temperatures from 60 to 70 ° F. Water and fertilize normally. Follow this procedure for 8 to 10 weeks. ----- Original Message ----- From: > How do I get my poinsettas to rebloom?? From letourneau12@juno.com Sun Oct 22 15:15:40 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 08:15:40 -0700 (MST) From: letourneau12@juno.com letourneau12@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am looking for a place to purchase a Anaheim Chili Pepper plant to give to my best friend for her birthday in November. Please let me know if you know of such a place and how I could contat them. From Bubblylady@aol.com Sun Oct 22 16:48:44 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 09:48:44 -0700 (MST) From: Bubblylady@aol.com Bubblylady@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! It's raining and I'm catching lots of rain in buckets. How long can I let the water sit before I have to use it? If I save it inside will it begin to smell at all? Thanks! Robin From umiller@azdps.com Sun Oct 22 17:10:58 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 10:10:58 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is this Plant? This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, folks - I saw a small (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near Borders Bookstore at Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird of Paradise, but I don't think that that's what it is. The yellow flowers were clustered like the Bird of Paradise, but the leaves were much, much fuller and rounder - not the little oval-shaped leaves of Bird of Paradise. I'm almost sure that it's not Yellow Bells because I'm familiar with that plant. The yellow flowers came out of a branch with lots of flowers on it -- just like the Bird of Paradise, unlike Yellow Bells where the flowers each come off their own stems. This was a very pretty little shrub because of the dense green. My husband said that the leaves looked like shamrock leaves, though I had to stretch my imagination a little to see them that way. Does anybody know what it could be? I would like to get one of these shrubs if I can find out what it is. Thanks for any help you can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, folks - I saw a = small=20 (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near Borders Bookstore at=20 Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird of Paradise, = but I=20 don't think that that's what it is.  The yellow flowers were = clustered like=20 the Bird of Paradise, but the leaves were much, much fuller and = rounder -=20 not the little oval-shaped leaves of Bird of Paradise. =20
 
I'm almost sure = that it's=20 not Yellow Bells because I'm familiar with that plant.  The = yellow=20 flowers came out of a branch with lots of flowers on it -- just like=20 the Bird of Paradise, unlike Yellow Bells where the flowers = each come=20 off their own stems.  
 
This was a very = pretty little=20 shrub because of the dense green.  My husband said that the leaves = looked=20 like shamrock leaves, though I had to stretch my imagination a = little to=20 see them that way.
 
Does anybody know = what it could=20 be?  I would like to get one of these shrubs if I can find out what = it=20 is.
 
Thanks for any help = you can=20 give me.
    
Ursula = Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40-- From mike-mad@home.com Sun Oct 22 18:07:58 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 11:07:58 -0700 From: Mike and Mad Pearce mike-mad@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] queen palm This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a queen palm approximately 20 years old. The fronds were very = dry and floppy over the summer so I called a reputable tree service to = diagnose the problem. They said all it needed was a deep root feeding. = That was done three weeks ago. We had a good rain since then (in fact = it's raining as I write this). However, the few remaining fronds have = now dropped off. Does that mean the tree is dead or is there still a = chance new growth will emerge? ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a queen palm approximately 20 = years=20 old.  The fronds were very dry and floppy over the summer so I = called=20 a reputable tree service to diagnose the problem.  They said all it = needed=20 was a deep root feeding.  That was done three weeks ago.  We = had a=20 good rain since then (in fact it's raining as I write this).  = However, the=20 few remaining fronds have now dropped off.  Does that = mean the=20 tree is dead or is there still a chance new growth will=20 emerge?
------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 22 18:38:35 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 11:38:35 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mexican Bird of Paradise It's "Mexican Bird of Paradise" (Caesalpinia mexicana) which has yellow blossoms. The "Red Bird of Paradise" is C. pulcherrima and is also sometimes called Mexican Bird. C. mexicana is pretty common in the newer landscapes in North Phoenix. Doesn't lose all of its leaves in winter like the red one and also stays in bloom later in fall and earlier in spring. Good descriptions in Sunset, p. 194. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is this Plant? > Hi, folks - I saw a small (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near > Borders Bookstore at Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird > of Paradise, but I don't think that that's what it is. ... > >... > Does anybody know what it could be? ... From hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Sun Oct 22 19:28:52 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 12:28:52 -0700 (MST) From: hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My grapefruit tree is 22 years old. I see where the following could apply to my tree since it is gumming up on approximately one-third of the branches. "Gumming up the trunk or on major branches of grapefruit • Rio Grande gummosis • Not a disease, simply a symptom of old age on grapefruit; no treatment needed" However, in addition on the affected branches, the bark peels, the leaves turn yellow, the fruit withers and the branch eventually dies. The unaffected branches are healthy and loaded with good fruit. Is it just old age or some disease? From alague628@aol.com Sun Oct 22 23:09:45 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 16:09:45 -0700 (MST) From: alague628@aol.com alague628@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Prescott. We have several rose bushes and wonder when/if we should cut them back for winter? In our previous life in Los Angeles we would cut them back around Dec/Jan but don't know what to do here since it freezes and snows... Is it too late to plant roses as we just bought one that is in a five gallon tub and would like to plant it. Also what about transplanting several to a more sunny location. Should we wait till spring or do it now? Re: irises. We have several that didn't bloom last year but otherwise look very healthy. My sister tells me that it may be because they are burried too deep. Can we just lift some of the soil off the top? Can we do that now or should we wait until spring? Thanks so much for all your help. Anita From silverstate@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 23 03:24:43 2000 Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 20:24:43 -0700 (MST) From: silverstate@worldnet.att.net silverstate@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Phoenix AZ, what kind of plants are harmful to dogs? From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 23 14:33:44 2000 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:33:44 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida I'm in the midst of advanced tree training and during Saturday's tour of the ASU arboretum, I posed your question to Terry Mikel, one of the county's ag agents. Upheaval of concrete slabs [patios, sidewalks] are more likely than foundation problems. He believes that when faced with the size of a block footing of 18 to 24" that is characteristic for a home structure, the root is going to turn and go off in a direction that is likely to be a source of H20 and other nutrients. However, with most trees and this one in particular, you WILL start to have troubles with the girth of the trunk and canopy slamming into the facade of the structure. Hence a move at this time is quite adviseable. Good luck. If you want a list of arborists to consult on the the job check out http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Linda Guy Master Gardener jrgarizona@yahoo.com wrote: > I have 2 ficus nitida planted about 4 feet > from my house that is built on a slab founda- > tion. I was told that they should be moved > because they are too close to the house and > will eventually crack the foundation with its > roots. Is this true? The trees are 2 years > old and healthy. They are about 15 ft. high > now. Can they be successfully moved? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 23 14:38:04 2000 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:38:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scalped Clippings as Mulch --------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Indeed, most golf courses follow this practice, according to Maricopa County ag agent Terry Mikel. It is as much to hide the seed from the birds as it is to add organic matter. While touring the ASU Arboretum this Saturday, Terry pointed out the labor-intensive practice of taping or roping off areas recently reseeded. He suggested that the best way to keep people from walking on a freshly seeded lawn is to use MANURE as the mulch, turning two steps into one! Linda Guy Master Gardener Douglas Anderson wrote: > Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my > yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching? --------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Indeed, most golf courses follow this practice, according to Maricopa County ag agent Terry Mikel. It is as much to hide the seed from the birds as it is to add organic matter.

While touring the ASU Arboretum this Saturday, Terry pointed out the labor-intensive practice of taping or roping off areas recently reseeded. He suggested that the best way to keep people from walking on a freshly seeded lawn is to use MANURE as the mulch, turning two steps into one!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Douglas Anderson wrote:

Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching?
--------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9-- From paynefarmrd@hotmail.com Tue Oct 24 00:02:40 2000 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 17:02:40 -0700 (MST) From: paynefarmrd@hotmail.com paynefarmrd@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We farm and jimson weed is taking over.What to do. What type of soil does it thrive in, we see it in the manure pile mostly. Can we add a mineral which will inhibit its growth? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 24 00:42:25 2000 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:42:25 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Rose questions from Prescott Anita, Our timing for pruning and planting of roses here in the Phoenix area is earlier than what you would do it in Prescott. I could guess and come close but why not get in touch with the experts who live in the Prescott area. B ob and Nancy Walter of the Prescott Rose Society can be reached at rwalters@northlink.com or 520 771 9300. Why not dig up and replant your iris bulbs if it is not too late. If it is too late in the Prescott area, just remove some of the dirt. I'm told by the real experts that grow iris that sometimes they do not bloom the first year in the ground. Good luck with your roses and iris. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From BetNew@aol.com Tue Oct 24 04:23:44 2000 Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 21:23:44 -0700 (MST) From: BetNew@aol.com BetNew@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My landscaper had to install Tifway sod in my backyard instead of the Santa Rosa he is familiar with. Can you tell me anything about this sod? Amount and frequency of water are the most important concerns, although I am also interested in whether the sod sections will grow together properly if I allow the lawn to go dormant this year. The grass went in the last week in Sept. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 17:13:10 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:13:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euryops I haven't grown them for quite some time, but I remember them liking a bit less water once established. Could you have overwatered them? A good soaking through the root zone [about 2', check depth with a stake that should sink easily through moist soil] to leach salts every few weeks now should be adequate. I can't gauge what hand watering every other weekend generates for them. As to the brown plant, if you bend a branch and it is pliant, there is still life. If it breaks, that piece and perhaps the rest of the plant, is gone. Linda Guy Master Gardener fscapellit@mindspring.com wrote: > Is this a resting time for my euryops?? All six of them have brown tinges on the tips, but one, I'm afraid is dying, is all turning brown. Did we put too much mulch in the ground? We've turned off the drip irrigation and water them by hand every other weekend....just enough to hope the roots are watered. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 17:17:23 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:17:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Ficus Nitida] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------ED590D37F2548B2088B5A627 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This answer provided yesterday to a querent with similar issues applies to your pomegranate as well. Good luck! Linda --------------ED590D37F2548B2088B5A627 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <39F44C48.D308BBA7@uswest.net> Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:33:44 -0700 From: Linda Guy X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: jrgarizona@yahoo.com CC: Arid gardener server Subject: Ficus Nitida References: <200010202354.QAA09136@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm in the midst of advanced tree training and during Saturday's tour of the ASU arboretum, I posed your question to Terry Mikel, one of the county's ag agents. Upheaval of concrete slabs [patios, sidewalks] are more likely than foundation problems. He believes that when faced with the size of a block footing of 18 to 24" that is characteristic for a home structure, the root is going to turn and go off in a direction that is likely to be a source of H20 and other nutrients. However, with most trees and this one in particular, you WILL start to have troubles with the girth of the trunk and canopy slamming into the facade of the structure. Hence a move at this time is quite adviseable. Good luck. If you want a list of arborists to consult on the the job check out http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Linda Guy Master Gardener jrgarizona@yahoo.com wrote: > I have 2 ficus nitida planted about 4 feet > from my house that is built on a slab founda- > tion. I was told that they should be moved > because they are too close to the house and > will eventually crack the foundation with its > roots. Is this true? The trees are 2 years > old and healthy. They are about 15 ft. high > now. Can they be successfully moved? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------ED590D37F2548B2088B5A627-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 17:20:24 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:20:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Sun Scald? Is it possible that your orange tree is splitting from exposure to the sun? Please read our summary on sun scald at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ to see if this makes sense in your situation. Linda Guy Master Gardener hrb85373@aol.com wrote: > I notice my message the other day on citrus orange tree was not completly written: I have wounds on the bark about 5 feet above the ground, some as large as 3 inches long, 2 inches wide, down to the white wood. Can see no teeth marks from a rodent. What would it be? > Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 17:28:29 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:28:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rainwater I suppose the length of time you keep it depends on your use. I use the roof runoff for my trees, but I don't bother 'catching' it in a barrel, as the downspots drain into a perforated pvc pipe that we buried 15" underground when we relandscaped the yard. Another way of catching rainwater for landscapes is to create 'washes' in your landscapes to act as catch basins. Roots will invariably reach in that direction, particularly if there's been any amount of rain over time. Many organic garden and farm catalogs have rainbarrel systems. But I've never tried to catch the rainwater anyother way than just described. Hopefully someone else on this listserve will have some ideas for you. I don't have an answer for if and how soon rainwater will smell if you bring it indoors. Linda Guy Master Gardener Bubblylady@aol.com wrote: > Hi! > It's raining and I'm catching lots of rain in buckets. How long can I let the water sit before I have to use it? > If I save it inside will it begin to smell at all? > Thanks! > Robin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 17:36:19 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 10:36:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Decline --------------9821BF9147E999637149C073 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although they are sold everywhere, queen palms are very fussy and not as well suited for the Phoenix environment as some other palms. What you have described could be crown rot, more prevalent during monsoons http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/bud-rot.htm Management/care practices are described here. It's possible you have lost the tree, as all new growth comes from the crown. This pathogen can move quickly to other queen palms so treatment with bordeaux [infected and ALL nearby palms] or removing the tree, if you believe it is gone, will be required. For a discussion of a variety of palms, as well as care practices, you can consult our palm publication [AZ1021] online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals Linda Guy Master Gardener Mike and Mad Pearce wrote: > I have a queen palm approximately 20 years old. The fronds were very > dry and floppy over the summer so I called a reputable tree service to > diagnose the problem. They said all it needed was a deep root > feeding. That was done three weeks ago. We had a good rain since > then (in fact it's raining as I write this). However, the few > remaining fronds have now dropped off. Does that mean the tree is > dead or is there still a chance new growth will emerge? --------------9821BF9147E999637149C073 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although they are sold everywhere, queen palms are very fussy and not as well suited for the Phoenix environment as some other palms.

What you have described could be crown rot, more prevalent during monsoons
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/bud-rot.htm
Management/care practices are described here. It's possible you have lost the tree, as all new growth comes from the crown. This pathogen can move quickly to other queen palms so treatment with bordeaux [infected and ALL nearby palms] or removing the tree, if you believe it is gone, will be required.

For a discussion of a variety of palms, as well as care practices, you can consult our palm publication [AZ1021] online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Mike and Mad Pearce wrote:

I have a queen palm approximately 20 years old.  The fronds were very dry and floppy over the summer so I called a reputable tree service to diagnose the problem.  They said all it needed was a deep root feeding.  That was done three weeks ago.  We had a good rain since then (in fact it's raining as I write this).  However, the few remaining fronds have now dropped off.  Does that mean the tree is dead or is there still a chance new growth will emerge?
--------------9821BF9147E999637149C073-- From Azaime@aol.com Tue Oct 24 21:29:26 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:29:26 -0700 (MST) From: Azaime@aol.com Azaime@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I know that the fruit of the prickly pear is good for jellies, but I was wondering about the Golden Barrel cactus fruit (Echinocactus Grusonii) Is it possible to eat their fruit. Is there any recipes for the fruit. Don't worry I am not going out on the desert to pick them. I have a yard full of them. From Azaime@aol.com Tue Oct 24 21:30:35 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 14:30:35 -0700 (MST) From: Azaime@aol.com Azaime@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I know that the fruit of the prickly pear is good for jellies, but I was wondering about the Golden Barrel cactus fruit (Echinocactus Grusonii) Is it possible to eat their fruit. Is there any recipes for the fruit. Don't worry I am not going out on the desert to pick them. I have a yard full of them. Sincerely, Aimee From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 24 22:47:20 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 18:47:20 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Turf care You should continue watering your Tifway sod that that was installed in late Sept. throughout the winter, the roots have not had a chance to become established yet. If you have not fertilized yet it should be done soon. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 24 23:46:38 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 16:46:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rainwater I don't store it underground although I suppose it could be done. I'm moving it into the soil and the root zones of my plants vs. having it runoff the landscape, into the street and into the storm sewer system! In my old house we sunk perforated steel drums into the ground at strategic places for water capture in monsoon storms in what was a very small backyard...this prevented the water from accumulating and running off into what was a very large pool. I can't lay claim to cooking up THAT idea, it was actually our young landscapers [this was at least 16 years ago, well before I'd gone through the MG program] who suggested it to minimize backyard flooding. Perforated pvc can be purchased at any big box home store. It sounds like a very involved thing to do, but really it is so simple. And it made sense since we had the whole yard torn up and rototilled, and were already trenching for irrigation system components. Linda "Wawrzynek, James" wrote: > Can you give me more details on the perforated pvc pipe? How well does it > work in storing rain water under ground? Thanks - James > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] > Sent: Tuesday, October 24, 2000 10:28 AM > To: Bubblylady@aol.com > Cc: Arid gardener server > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rainwater > > I suppose the length of time you keep it depends on your use. I use the roof > runoff for my trees, but I don't bother > 'catching' it in a barrel, as the downspots drain into a perforated pvc pipe > that we buried 15" underground when we > relandscaped the yard. Another way of catching rainwater for landscapes is > to create 'washes' in your landscapes to > act as catch basins. Roots will invariably reach in that direction, > particularly if there's been any amount of rain > over time. > > Many organic garden and farm catalogs have rainbarrel systems. But I've > never tried to catch the rainwater anyother > way than just described. Hopefully someone else on this listserve will have > some ideas for you. I don't have an > answer for if and how soon rainwater will smell if you bring it indoors. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > Bubblylady@aol.com wrote: > > > Hi! > > It's raining and I'm catching lots of rain in buckets. How long can I let > the water sit before I have to use it? > > If I save it inside will it begin to smell at all? > > Thanks! > > Robin > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From h-hesek@msn.com Wed Oct 25 02:50:35 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 19:50:35 -0700 (MST) From: h-hesek@msn.com h-hesek@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page From h-hesek@msn.com Wed Oct 25 03:04:44 2000 Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 20:04:44 -0700 (MST) From: h-hesek@msn.com h-hesek@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page whenis the best time to plant tomatoes in lake havasu city or flagstaff,az.? does elevation go into the consideration? any webb sites for more information on growning vegtable and flowers in this area? my son lives in lhc and i visited him in last oct. and his tomatoes did very well, i am thinking relocating to kingmand and am wondering about the elevation in regards to planting vegtables or flowers.. he has , what i can see, nothing but sand so i told him fertilizing was very important and to add some bagged soil/manure and or fertilizer for the tomatoes. the crop was fantastic. the library in lake havasu city was very deficent on information on this type of material. i was very disapointed. (sorry about the spelling) because i am from ilinois ,i know that growing veggies and flower will very different, i would like to have more information on when, (time of year) what, is the best plants. etc. etc. sorry i have taken so much of your time. this is very important to me. From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 25 14:19:06 2000 Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:19:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Rio Grande Gummosis] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1B38DB8509E95A9A2CDADC82 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here is a discussion of the possible causes of your grapefruit's distress. According to Mike, there are not fungicidal options, just tree surgery. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------1B38DB8509E95A9A2CDADC82 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 17980 invoked by uid 0); 23 Oct 2000 22:12:31 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Oct 2000 22:12:31 -0000 Received: (qmail 55552 invoked from network); 23 Oct 2000 22:12:30 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Oct 2000 22:12:30 -0000 Received: from Kumquat.YMF.arizona.edu (Kumquat.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.5]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id PAA12962 for ; Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:12:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:12:17 -0700 Message-Id: <3.0.1.32.20001023151217.007b7e10@ag.arizona.edu> From: "Mike Matheron" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: matheron@ag.arizona.edu (Unverified) X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.1 (32) Subject: Rio Grande Gummosis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Dear Linda, Dr. Glenn Wright forwarded your questions about Rio Grande gummosis to me. Symptoms of gumming and scaly bark on grapefruit could be caused by one of three diseases. 1). One possibility is Rio Grande gummosis, so named because the disease was first described on grapefruit in Texas near the Rio Grande River. This disease is often associated with broken or dead branches, through which a complex of fungi gain entrance into the tree and induce the formation of gum pockets. 2). Psorosis is a complex of virus-like diseases. Symptoms include bark lesions, which can be numerous and expand in size, with sloughing of large strips of bark. Bark scaling with some gumming is common. Psorosis bark lesions differ from those of Rio Grande gummosis in that Rio Grande gummosis lesions exude more gum and no extensive callus is formed under the bark that is sloughed. 3). Hendersonula branch wilt. This is a fungal disease that invades damaged bark tissue and causes branches to wilt and die. The diagnostic feature of this disease is that the very outermost layer of bark peels from infected branches to expose black masses of spores of the pathogen covering the infected area. Gumming can appear on branches as this disease develops. Treatment for each of the diseases is the same. Remove the infected part of the tree if possible. If the infected area is on a part of the tree that cannot be cut away without removing the entire tree, then the owner has to decide on nursing the infected tree along or taking the tree out and replanting. Mike Matheron *********************** Michael E. Matheron Extension Plant Pathologist University of Arizona Yuma Agricultural Center 6425 W. Eighth Street Yuma, AZ 85364 Phone: (520) 726-0458 Fax: (520) 726-1363 E-mail: matheron@ag.arizona.edu --------------1B38DB8509E95A9A2CDADC82-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 25 14:21:35 2000 Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 07:21:35 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Rio Grande Gummosis] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------2E5D5147D9B9FA55B9AABFD8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Resent to correct querent's address.] Here is a discussion of the possible causes of your grapefruit's distress. According to Mike, there are no fungicidal options, just tree surgery. Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------2E5D5147D9B9FA55B9AABFD8 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailM3.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailM3.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 17980 invoked by uid 0); 23 Oct 2000 22:12:31 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Oct 2000 22:12:31 -0000 Received: (qmail 55552 invoked from network); 23 Oct 2000 22:12:30 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Oct 2000 22:12:30 -0000 Received: from Kumquat.YMF.arizona.edu (Kumquat.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.5]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id PAA12962 for ; Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:12:09 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 15:12:17 -0700 Message-Id: <3.0.1.32.20001023151217.007b7e10@ag.arizona.edu> From: "Mike Matheron" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: matheron@ag.arizona.edu (Unverified) X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.1 (32) Subject: Rio Grande Gummosis Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Dear Linda, Dr. Glenn Wright forwarded your questions about Rio Grande gummosis to me. Symptoms of gumming and scaly bark on grapefruit could be caused by one of three diseases. 1). One possibility is Rio Grande gummosis, so named because the disease was first described on grapefruit in Texas near the Rio Grande River. This disease is often associated with broken or dead branches, through which a complex of fungi gain entrance into the tree and induce the formation of gum pockets. 2). Psorosis is a complex of virus-like diseases. Symptoms include bark lesions, which can be numerous and expand in size, with sloughing of large strips of bark. Bark scaling with some gumming is common. Psorosis bark lesions differ from those of Rio Grande gummosis in that Rio Grande gummosis lesions exude more gum and no extensive callus is formed under the bark that is sloughed. 3). Hendersonula branch wilt. This is a fungal disease that invades damaged bark tissue and causes branches to wilt and die. The diagnostic feature of this disease is that the very outermost layer of bark peels from infected branches to expose black masses of spores of the pathogen covering the infected area. Gumming can appear on branches as this disease develops. Treatment for each of the diseases is the same. Remove the infected part of the tree if possible. If the infected area is on a part of the tree that cannot be cut away without removing the entire tree, then the owner has to decide on nursing the infected tree along or taking the tree out and replanting. Mike Matheron *********************** Michael E. Matheron Extension Plant Pathologist University of Arizona Yuma Agricultural Center 6425 W. Eighth Street Yuma, AZ 85364 Phone: (520) 726-0458 Fax: (520) 726-1363 E-mail: matheron@ag.arizona.edu --------------2E5D5147D9B9FA55B9AABFD8-- From LBradley@sisna.com Wed Oct 25 18:18:26 2000 Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:18:26 -0700 From: Lucy Bradley LBradley@sisna.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Orange Dropping Fruit Early Is there a website answering questions about citrus trees? My mature blood orange is dropping its crop early. Lucy K. Bradley From AHall1999@aol.com Wed Oct 25 18:24:39 2000 Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 11:24:39 -0700 From: by way of Lucy Bradley AHall1999@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Tulips in Scottsdale Will you help me answer some questions about growing and caring for Tulips in Scottsdale area? I have many tulips from The Netherlands and would like to plant them to bloom next year. Will you advise the steps I should take in this climate? I have grown them before in Michigan, however, we won't have the cold weather here. QUESTIONS: a) Storage through summer and prior to refrigeration? (should they be kept with some form of humidity?) b) Cooling suggestions (length of time, temp, etc.) c) Planting suggestions ( When? Planters? In the ground?) d) Spacing between them when planting? e) When do you remove them from planting location? How long can I reasonably expect for them to be healthy in this climate? I welcome any suggestions you may have and thank you for helping me address my questions. Kind Regards, Alison Hall From mbarj@concentric.net Wed Oct 25 22:21:05 2000 Date: Wed, 25 Oct 2000 15:21:05 -0700 (MST) From: mbarj@concentric.net mbarj@concentric.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'd like to know how to clean/preserve saguaro skeletons. From kaneal@home.com Thu Oct 26 14:49:32 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 07:49:32 -0700 (MST) From: kaneal@home.com kaneal@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Lemon tree with a 5 inch diameter has never given us very many lemons. We have given it more water at your suggestion, also fertilized and it has leafed out nicely. Two weeks ago it dropped some leaves and has started blooming. I can now see several small lemons developing. Isn't this the wrong time of year for this to be happening? Previously, it would blossom out with a ton of blossoms in the spring, but no lemons would develop. I'm crossing my fingers the few lemons that are there now will eventually develop, hang on and rippen up. Any suggestions on what is happening with this tree? Thanks for your help! Karen From KA7PMI@aol.com Thu Oct 26 17:41:48 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:41:48 -0700 (MST) From: KA7PMI@aol.com KA7PMI@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is there an expert out there on Christmas cactus? Have some questions. From ajgretiree@aol.com Thu Oct 26 17:55:48 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 10:55:48 -0700 (MST) From: ajgretiree@aol.com ajgretiree@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page how often to water trees and plants in the winter. have new plantings? From Paul.Pallanich@Honeywell.com Thu Oct 26 19:35:02 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 12:35:02 -0700 (MST) From: Paul.Pallanich@Honeywell.com Paul.Pallanich@Honeywell.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am concerned that a strong pesticide that I used to kill hundreds of fleas in my garden may have contaminated my veggies. The pesticide was Ortho-Klor and contains 12.6% Cloropyrifos. The container also says that it contains an Areomatic Petroleum Solvent. 87.4% other. The veggies I have include Green Peppers, Tomatoes, Strawberries, Carrots, Cabbage, Green Beans, Chard, Green Onions, Broccoli, and Lettuce. Can the roots absorb the poison? Will washing be sufficient? Should I trash the carrots and onions? Thank you. From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Oct 26 20:16:23 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 13:16:23 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi, Go to www.azfamily.com, then select Garden Guy under the home and garden section on the left hand side. He discusses this very question this week at his website. To go directly to the site, the link is below. http://www.azfamily.com/homecook/garden/index.html He updates this every Thursday, and I usually enjoy reading it every thursday :) He has archives there with other information for this time of year. Alan ajgretiree@aol.com wrote: > how often to water trees and plants in the winter. have new plantings? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From ebenware@juno.com Fri Oct 27 12:46:30 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 05:46:30 -0700 From: Edna JK Benware ebenware@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Read the label of the pesticide used. It will specify how to be used around food products. Call the product's company; I cannot imagine any that no longer have toll free numbers on the label. Ask to be certain, if you have trouble understanding the label. Also ask them about future use of the garden space. The soil may be contaminated for future vegetable gardening, also. Edna Benware Master Gardener Maricopa County Cooperative Extension/University of Arizona ******************************************************* You letter asked: The pesticide was Ortho-Klor and contains 12.6% Cloropyrifos. The container also says that it contains an Areomatic Petroleum Solvent. 87.4% other. The veggies I have include Green Peppers, Tomatoes, Strawberries, Carrots, Cabbage, Green Beans, Chard, Green Onions, Broccoli, and Lettuce. Can the roots absorb the poison? Will washing be sufficient? Should I trash the carrots and onions? Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From oshelbel@juno.com Thu Oct 26 18:15:43 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 11:15:43 -0700 From: opie lione oshelbel@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] please unsubscribe me hey lucy, et al please unsubscribe me from this list. pinon forest living now, and i hardly have time to read all the mail. yours in the woods, oshelbel@juno.com aka shelley morgan OArid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From rmedearis@hotmail.com Fri Oct 27 17:32:13 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 10:32:13 -0700 (MST) From: rmedearis@hotmail.com rmedearis@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page RE: Oleanders I am having problems with our 5+ year old oleanders not growing or flowering much. Last spring, our garden center sold me fertilizer for them, but it did nothing. They also said to prune off the suckers off the bottoms. What should I be putting on them to grow, and how and when should they be pruned properly? RE: Rose bush At the same time last spring, we transplated a large rosebush. Again, our garden center said to fertilize with a Rose fert. and to transplant with a 3 foot root left on the bush. and to prune back the vines. It looks like it died, but the branches still bend. It must still be in shock! What can we do? From rjezeski@aol.com Fri Oct 27 17:33:49 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 10:33:49 -0700 (MST) From: rjezeski@aol.com rjezeski@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page what are the advantages or disadvantages of leaving a tree wrap around our fruit trees year around? our trees get full sun allday and our trees have been planted for one and a half years. one is a orange and the other is a grapefruit. neither tree has produced fruit yet and the trees are about 4 to 5 feet tall From dmkerr@dancris.com Fri Oct 27 18:50:09 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 11:50:09 -0700 From: David M. Kerr dmkerr@dancris.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0400C.0EE137C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Is there one place which lists the frost tolerance of winter garden = plants? How much cold, and for how long, can plants like romaine, = broccoli, potato, garlic, brussel sprouts, jalepenos, leeks etc = tolerate? =20 ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0400C.0EE137C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Is there one place which lists the = frost tolerance=20 of winter garden plants?  How much cold, and for how long, can = plants like=20 romaine, broccoli, potato, garlic, brussel sprouts, jalepenos, leeks etc = tolerate?
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01C0400C.0EE137C0-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 27 21:49:40 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:49:40 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Roses and Oleanders If neither your roses or oleanders are growing one cause could be improper irrigation. If the rose canes are still green and pliable then it is probably alive. With the cooler weather and the rains you should be seeing some new growth. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 27 21:49:44 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 17:49:44 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus with a trunk wrap The trunk wrap is put on young citrus trees to prevent them from getting sun burn. It should be left on until the canopy has developed enough to shade the entire trunk. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From khughes@primenet.com Sat Oct 28 02:15:34 2000 Date: Fri, 27 Oct 2000 19:15:34 -0700 From: Nancy Eilers-Hughes khughes@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus attacking Mesquite (roots?) I have a fungus appearing on the soil surface under our mature (probably Chilean) Mesquite. Yesterday I noticed small (quarter size or smaller) mounds of white stuff, and figured it was fungus and, sure enough, today, I have mushrooms erupting. We've owned our N. Phx home for 7 years, and haven't seen this before. The tree wasn't mature when we bought, but it's grown vigorously into a huge tree. I've never watered or fertilized it, but we have to trim branches constantly during the summer to keep the lower part of the canopy from spreading wider than 40'. I looked on the Extension Plant Pathology page, and it is not Ganoderma - the trunk isn't affected. The description of the initial fruiting bodies is similar, but the 'shrooms are coming out of the ground (not trunk). They're round (2-3" right now), light brown, and the edges don't curl up. There is a brown dust, as in the description of Ganoderma. Whatever it is, I assume it's attacked the tree roots, since it's only appearing under the drip line. We have desert landscaping, with old, mixed granite, and dry rotted clear plastic underneath. Tree gets unobstructed sun on the south side of our house. Mostly clay soil, no caliche. We rake infrequently. The nearest drip system is 25' away, about the same distance to the house's main water line. My husband sprays the ground around the tree for weeds occasionally, and last month (for the first time), I lightly sprinkled Diazinon for a persistent ant problem. (If I'm getting carried away in my description, blame it on Brookbanks' "20 questions! :-)) We know the tree isn't in tip top shape because it's had a very deep vertical split in the trunk for years, and some of the horizontal limbs seem to be splitting length-wise, like they're too heavy (probably the cause of the ant problem?). I've been assuming that the previous owner over-watered it. We had it "professionally" thinned (not topped) 2 years ago. Could this be the start of a normal decline of a super-fast growing variety? Can you tell if I've cared for it badly? Should I try a fungicide as a stop-gap measure? I want (if possible) to deal with the underlying problem in addition to the fungus. If I need a tree doctor, can you make a recommendation? Also, any idea if this could be a poisonous mushroom? Thanks so much in advance! From dbbll@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 28 14:16:32 2000 Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 07:16:32 -0700 (MST) From: dbbll@worldnet.att.net dbbll@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Join the list serve... From kmiller610@home.com Sat Oct 28 15:22:51 2000 Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 08:22:51 -0700 (MST) From: kmiller610@home.com kmiller610@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a purple robe locust tree. I also have a dog. The dog decided he really liked the tree's bark. He proceeded to eat all of the bark from the base up approximately 3 feet. The trunk is approximately 2 inches thick and was planted this July. Will this hurt the tree? If so what can I do to help it? From oshelbel@juno.com Thu Oct 26 18:15:43 2000 Date: Thu, 26 Oct 2000 11:15:43 -0700 From: opie lione oshelbel@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] please unsubscribe me hey lucy, et al please unsubscribe me from this list. pinon forest living now, and i hardly have time to read all the mail. yours in the woods, oshelbel@juno.com aka shelley morgan OArid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 28 22:36:05 2000 Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 18:36:05 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Tree girdled by a dog The bark on a tree contains its circulation system. If the dog has completely girdled the tree down to bare wood you need to start shopping for another tree. If you do plant another tree you might want to try one of the sprays that are supposed to keep animals away from the tree or keep the dog on a chain. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 28 22:36:10 2000 Date: Sat, 28 Oct 2000 18:36:10 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus attacking Mesquite (roots?) Nancy, It sounds as though you have done a lot of home work concerning your mesquite tree. However I suspect that the mushrooms that you are seeing under the mesquite tree are just that, and are caused by rotting material in the soil and have no connection with the tree roots. You said that you have never seen this before; that is probably because we haven't had the amount of rain that has fallen recently in several years. You are seeing the mushrooms at the drip line because that is where the most of the water runs off the tree. From your description the tree is growing quite rapidly, it must be getting water from somewhere or you wouldn't be getting all that growth. I would guess that the roots have grown out to get water from your drip system. You should treat all mushrooms as poisonous. I would be concerned about the split in the trunk, could it become a hazzard ? I would also suggest that you have an arborist check it out to make sure that it is safe. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From p_bauman@msn.com Sun Oct 29 18:37:25 2000 Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 11:37:25 -0700 (MST) From: p_bauman@msn.com p_bauman@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently purchased a single 5-gal orange tree to plant in my yard. Do I need to plant two trees to ensure pollination? Pete From Autumntwo@earthlink.net Sun Oct 29 22:58:31 2000 Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 15:58:31 -0700 (MST) From: Autumntwo@earthlink.net Autumntwo@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have two 5 year old Lemon Bottle Brush bushes on the east side of my house. The second year they bloomed from late Mar thru Sept, but each year they bloomed fewer months until this year once for about 3 weeks. Any suggestions would be appreciated. From ecorral368@aol.comh Mon Oct 30 00:12:30 2000 Date: Sun, 29 Oct 2000 17:12:30 -0700 (MST) From: ecorral368@aol.comh ecorral368@aol.comh Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i would like to know how to dye cloths using the parasite found on the prickley pair cactus(chonile); thank you Eddie From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Oct 30 18:32:20 2000 Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 11:32:20 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lycianthes rantonnei, also known as Solanum rantonnei Does anyone here grow Lycianthes rantonnei, also known as Solanum rantonnei, which is also known as Blue Potato Bush? I just purchased one that is 6-1/2 feet tall and has been trained as a tree. It's beautiful!!! The flowers are Purple with yellow centers, about an inch in diameter. Some of the info I have read says it does very well in Phoenix in full sun, and some contradicting info says it needs protection from full sun. Sigh! Sometimes you can't win for loosing. I forgot my sunset book this morning when I went to the nursery to get some petunia's and ended up coming home with petunias, poppy's and a Potato tree....laugh! Well, I love trying new things, and will give it a shot. It has a 1 year guarantee, so if it dies before the end of next summer, I can take it back and get refunded. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing your experiences! -- R. Alan Zelhart Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make Strawberry daiquiri's!! From jshirley@apsc.com Mon Oct 30 19:35:14 2000 Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 12:35:14 -0700 (MST) From: jshirley@apsc.com jshirley@apsc.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Well; am I too late for a perenneal (sp?) rye grass seeding? I purchased the Tip_Top $49 special a few weeks ago. I live near 107th Ave and Beardsley. Cell 602-315-5633 From sjbass@uswest.net Mon Oct 30 20:18:55 2000 Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 13:18:55 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blue Potato Bush Alan: I planted a Blue Potato Bush in my church's garden last spring. It had full sun in an enclosed courtyard (reflected heat) all summer and wasn't bothered by it at all. I have it sort of climbing on an iron trellis. I think that they are very hardy plants. Sue Bass Gilbert, AZ Alan Zelhart wrote: > Does anyone here grow Lycianthes rantonnei, also known as Solanum > rantonnei, which is also known as Blue Potato Bush? > > I just purchased one that is 6-1/2 feet tall and has been trained as a > tree. It's beautiful!!! The flowers are Purple with yellow centers, > about an inch in diameter. Some of the info I have read says it does > very well in Phoenix in full sun, and some contradicting info says it > needs protection from full sun. Sigh! Sometimes you can't win for > loosing. I forgot my sunset book this morning when I went to the > nursery > to get some petunia's and ended up coming home with petunias, poppy's > and a Potato tree....laugh! > > Well, I love trying new things, and will give it a shot. It has a 1 > year guarantee, so if it dies before the end of next summer, I can take > it back and get refunded. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing your > experiences! > > -- > R. Alan Zelhart > Chandler, Arizona > Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm > Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make Strawberry daiquiri's!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Pacsmith@att.net Mon Oct 30 20:59:20 2000 Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 13:59:20 -0700 (MST) From: Pacsmith@att.net Pacsmith@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a beautiful, healthy saguaro in my suburban front yard. I have learned that it is not really compatible with the other landscape plants surrounding it (in other words, it may be receiving more water than designed for. A palm tree is about six feet away. We may have it removed. The other plants use less water: bougainvilla, thornless bougainvilla, a chilean mesquite tree, yucca, desert rocks-- no grass). In the past couple years, the saguaro has really grown and is starting its first "arm." I have heard that saguaros that receive plentiful water sometimes suddenly fall over, even though they appear healthy. Ours is situated fairly close to the house. I would rather it be in a more native environment. Is it possible for saguaros to be transplanted successfully? Are there reputable companies that remove them and find more suitable homes? Any suggestions? Thanks! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 31 00:09:32 2000 Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2000 19:09:32 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Over seeding bermuda grass No it is not too late to overseed with rye, but I would recommend that you get it done right away before the soil temperature is too low for the seed to sprout. Most experts quote Oct. 15 to Nov. 15 as the window in which to get it done. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 17:59:54 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 10:59:54 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jimson Weed Seed I don't know about growth inhibitors, and I'm not a specialist in herbicides or preemergents. We do have a few publications on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds but this is more directed at the urban environment. You can order using info at the top of the page. What I could suggest is that you augment your composting practices to heat up the pile more, destroying the weed seeds. No doubt your stock has eaten quite a bit of this weed. Since you are in agriculture, why don't you telephone your county's cooperative extension office and ask the ag agent or staff. If you are in Maricopa County, the phone number is 602/470-8086. A website for other AZ counties is http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener paynefarmrd@hotmail.com wrote: > We farm and jimson weed is taking over.What to do. What type of soil does it thrive in, we see it in the manure pile mostly. Can we add a mineral which will inhibit its growth? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:02:12 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:02:12 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden Barrel Cactus Fruit Edibility I don't know the answer to your question, and, if you have not as yet received a reply from us, I would highly recommend contacting the Desert Botanical Gardens during their hotline hours, M-F, 10 - 11:30 am, 480-941-1225. Their are experts on this class of plants Linda Guy, Master Gardener Azaime@aol.com wrote: > I know that the fruit of the prickly pear is good for jellies, but I was wondering about the Golden Barrel cactus fruit (Echinocactus Grusonii) Is it possible to eat their fruit. Is there any recipes for the fruit. Don't worry I am not going out on the desert to pick them. I have a yard full of them. > > Sincerely, > > Aimee > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:05:02 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:05:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lycianthes rantonnei, Solanum rantonnei My blue potato bush grew quite well on the south side of the house in full sun for the six years or so I resided at that home. Linda Alan Zelhart wrote: > Does anyone here grow Lycianthes rantonnei, also known as Solanum > rantonnei, which is also known as Blue Potato Bush? > > I just purchased one that is 6-1/2 feet tall and has been trained as a > tree. It's beautiful!!! The flowers are Purple with yellow centers, > about an inch in diameter. Some of the info I have read says it does > very well in Phoenix in full sun, and some contradicting info says it > needs protection from full sun. Sigh! Sometimes you can't win for > loosing. I forgot my sunset book this morning when I went to the > nursery > to get some petunia's and ended up coming home with petunias, poppy's > and a Potato tree....laugh! > > Well, I love trying new things, and will give it a shot. It has a 1 > year guarantee, so if it dies before the end of next summer, I can take > it back and get refunded. Anyway, I'm interested in hearing your > experiences! > > -- > R. Alan Zelhart > Chandler, Arizona > Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm > Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make Strawberry daiquiri's!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:10:38 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:10:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus pollination I don't believe that citrus require this. Since I don't know your specific tree, check out the online publication on citrus varieties [AZ1001] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since you are planting as we enter the cooler season, and I'm not sure of your elevation, you might want to educate yourself on frost protection [AZ 1002] which publication you can also reach from this page [in the weather section]. Linda Guy Master Gardener p_bauman@msn.com wrote: > I recently purchased a single 5-gal orange tree to plant in my yard. Do I need to plant two trees to ensure pollination? > > Pete > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:20:31 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:20:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Christmas Cactus Why don't you post your specific questions to the list server and see what reesponses you might receive from the members? Linda Guy Master Gardener KA7PMI@aol.com wrote: > Is there an expert out there on Christmas cactus? Have some questions. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:30:16 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:30:16 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cats claw over Septic System I did not see cat's claw listed on Cornell University's website listing poisonous plants http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/plants.html Vines and small plants often have root zones that are more superficial in depth, as contrasted with very large shrubs and trees. In the desert, root zones will tend to be more shallow in an effort or as a strategy to catch what precipitation is available. If the vine is not well watered, I would imagine it would tend to seek the moisture of the leach field, but I thought these had to be fairly deep in the ground. I know you have asked for information on plant material over septic tank systems in the past, and we have had little data for you. I think you should spend some time browsing the web to see if someone else has material you seek. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > How deep does Cats Claw roots grow/travel ? Am interested in possibly > planting this near a leach bed and septic tank which are in use. > > Also, is this plant poisonous to animals (horses)? > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 31 18:34:19 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:34:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Poisonous Plants - Dogs When you have a list of plants in mind, you can consult Cornell University's website on the topic. http://www.ansci.cornell.edu/plants/plants.html Unfortunately, I am not aware of a specific list of plants poisonous to canines. Have you tried pet-related websites like http://www.aspca.org/ http://www.healthypet.com/ There is also a poison control hotline which I think ASPCA has on its website. Perhaps they'll have info for you. Linda Guy Master Gardener silverstate@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I live in Phoenix AZ, what kind of plants are harmful to dogs? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ckjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Tue Oct 31 21:25:05 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 14:25:05 -0700 From: Jones, Chris ckjones@mail.co.gila.az.us Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jimson Weed Seed Jimson weed can be pretty tolerate of a variety of conditions, especially if it is the annual variety (which I don't know from your message.) As a farmer, I assume you are usually tilling and disturbing the soil, a perfect condition for this invader species. Because it has such a broad leaf, I would think it should respond well to 2,4-d, a broad leaf selective herbicide such as Weed-B-Gone. Be careful as it should be pretty effective on your farm crops as well, with the exception of corn and other monocots. I'd apply when it is small and growing vigorously until the first blooms develop to head off the seed source. It is a warm season weed...you could grow cool season vegetables and then grow corn as your warm season crop until you can minimize your herbicide use. Also watch for it's thorn-apple and remove and dispose of by hand if feasible, they produce thousands of seeds. Keep them out of the manure pile! Mulching fallow and adjacent areas at least 4" deep will also keep weeds from getting out of control. Hope these ideas are useful. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (520) 425-7179 FAX: (520) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 11:00 AM To: paynefarmrd@hotmail.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jimson Weed Seed I don't know about growth inhibitors, and I'm not a specialist in herbicides or preemergents. We do have a few publications on the topic at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds but this is more directed at the urban environment. You can order using info at the top of the page. What I could suggest is that you augment your composting practices to heat up the pile more, destroying the weed seeds. No doubt your stock has eaten quite a bit of this weed. Since you are in agriculture, why don't you telephone your county's cooperative extension office and ask the ag agent or staff. If you are in Maricopa County, the phone number is 602/470-8086. A website for other AZ counties is http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Good luck. Linda Guy Master Gardener paynefarmrd@hotmail.com wrote: > We farm and jimson weed is taking over.What to do. What type of soil does it thrive in, we see it in the manure pile mostly. Can we add a mineral which will inhibit its growth? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gussiejean@earthlink.net Tue Oct 31 23:56:13 2000 Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:56:13 -0700 From: Karen Olson gussiejean@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C0435B.7A01D800 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Please unsubscribe me from the list. I tried to do so from the Internet = site, but it wouldn't accept my password. I even looked it up from your = confirmation note. Thanks. ------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C0435B.7A01D800 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Please unsubscribe me from the = list.  I=20 tried to do so from the Internet site, but it wouldn't accept my = password. =20 I even looked it up from your confirmation note. =20 Thanks.
------=_NextPart_000_0028_01C0435B.7A01D800-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 21:39:52 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 14:39:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: SEPTIC TANK Plantings References: <3.0.32.20000927124211.00975c30@mail> Message-ID: <39D7AF28.C27E29EA@uswest.net> I'm sorry Ella, but I don't know of a good resource for you at this time. May I suggest that you call one of my Master Gardener colleagues at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension for their advice? They are also volunteers, but they are on site with a number of the University staff and sometimes get better information that I have working from home.The phone number is on the same page as the one where you originally posted this question, 602/470-8086 if my memory is good today. It also lists our satellite offices, also staffed by MG volunteers. The nearest one could also be of assistance to you. I'd provide you the exact hyperlink, but the university's server appears to be down and I can't access it directly at this moment. Go to ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/ for the home page and at the end of the list will be the function for asking a question. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Linda Ella Mardick wrote: > We have an active system. The area that we live in, everyone is on a > septic system. Where would one check information on what can be planted > near a septic tank & leach beds. I appreciate your help. > > At 03:01 PM 9/26/00 -0700, you wrote: > >[Being resent do to last week's server problems.] > > > >I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the > >additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most > >honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field > >have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my > >experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes! > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >Ella Mardick wrote: > > > >> Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? > > From lindaguy@uswest.net Sun Oct 1 22:10:45 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 15:10:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rhubarb anyone? Message-ID: <39D7B665.79E9C902@uswest.net> I have been fueling a resurrected passion for cooking by volunteering at culinary classes at a well-known local kitchen gadgets store. [hint: This Saturday I spent three hours at the sink pictured behind chef Susan Schopp in last Wednesday's cooking section feature!] This week's class on pies was presented by the store's owner and as we exchanged stories about our best pies over the years, we were pleasantly surprised to learn that our mutual favorite was plain, unadulterated rhubarb [plenty of sugar, of course]. This Manitoba farm-girl [the owner, not me] would dearly love to grow a stand of rhubarb and beseeched me to contact all of you in an effort to secure any tricks at all to aid in this effort. Container growing is an option. I told her that I'd researched it once upon a time some years ago and had decided that it wasn't quite but perhaps close to hopeless, since in 'normal' circumstances [like where we each grew up] there was substantial winter chilling and longer cool springs. Also that I suspected that any chance would be augmented by planting now and treating this as an annual. [I'd also been told something similar about artichokes, and have NO problem growing these however!] She' been baking pies since age 8 and used to make as many as a dozen daily during threshing season. She makes a mean pie and she means business! Any hints, success stories, things to avoid, would be appreciated. Linda From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 2 00:36:38 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:36:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm plant with yellow leave tips Message-ID: <60.761df26.27093296@aol.com> It is difficult to answer your question about yellow leaves on your palm plant without knowing what Palm plant you have. Lack of fertilizer could be the cause of yellow leaves. Palms should be fertilized 3 or 4 times a year with a special palm fertilizer. I'm not familiar with the vitamins to which you refer. Check out this website for more info on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dmkerr@dancris.com Mon Oct 2 01:07:07 2000 From: dmkerr@dancris.com (David M. Kerr) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:07:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <000e01c02c0d$16a3bb80$99cac9d0@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns = scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy to = let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to get = manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take the = cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some = spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and oleanders = in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half their weight and = bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It is prime time for composters.  = My neighbors=20 are having their lawns scalped and dethatched for winter lawns.  I = find the=20 gardeners happy to let me take the cuttings.  It is less work than = going to=20 a ranch to get manure for me.  It saves the gardeners the time and=20 gas to take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee.  It = helps=20 if  you know some spanish.  I keep the cuttings in piles under = citrus=20 trees and oleanders in my front yard.  In a month, they = will have lost=20 half their weight and bulk.  I will relocate them to my compost=20 pile.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C02BD2.69725140-- From celtic_2@netzero.net Mon Oct 2 17:01:43 2000 From: celtic_2@netzero.net (celtic_2@netzero.net) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 10:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010021701.KAA05370@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When should I plant rye grass? Is it necessary to cut my bermuda close to the ground before applying the rye seed? And how much water and fertilizer does rye need? From wbelisle@speedchoice.com Mon Oct 2 20:38:15 2000 From: wbelisle@speedchoice.com (wbelisle@speedchoice.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:38:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010022038.NAA01710@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a lady banks rose that has been pruned as a shrub for many years. It is extremely large 8 feet tall and 10 feet wide. Should it be pruned like a climbing rose and when should I do it???? From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Oct 2 20:44:22 2000 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 13:44:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010022044.NAA03547@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our condo association changed landscapers last year and altho the Pres. insists they know what they'll doing, I'm not convinced. He feels that it is necessary to cut down the bushes (Oleander, the orange ones native to Africa, etc)to within 12 inches under the guise that they will "grow back stronger" - well, what has been cut back has certainlygrown back - but NOT stronger - I wish I knew their name, but the "orange bloomed ones from Africa" are now 8 - 10 ft high. very flimsy and wafting in the breezes. Another noticeable difference since his arrival is that all the "suckers" (small branches sprouting from main branches) have been left on all the trees (very noticeable on the African pepper trees - almost reaching the driveways) Not only do our pretty trees like like heck but isn't it UNHEALTY for them?? Doesn't it sap their strength?? i've never seen this left like this before,except in cases of neglect. Our condo corp.has over 100 units and the Pres. has clearly advised that he is very supportive of this new "expert". Before we band together to make a complain, we thought we should check with the real experts so that we could offer a remedy at the same time..I'm no gardener and I know we haven't been very specific about the bushes and trees, so if more infor is required,we will find the proper names...Thanking you in advance... From spiessman@uswest.net Mon Oct 2 22:33:23 2000 From: spiessman@uswest.net (spiessman@uswest.net) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:33:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible. From azgogel@aol.com Mon Oct 2 22:47:34 2000 From: azgogel@aol.com (azgogel@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 15:47:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010022247.PAA29552@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks From lyshogan@aol.com Mon Oct 2 23:15:59 2000 From: lyshogan@aol.com (lyshogan@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 16:15:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010022315.QAA05798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My lysiloma trees are growing slowly, look sparse and have yellowing leaves. I fertilized and deep watered last week and now one of the trees is losing its leaves. The trees are about 5 years old. Prior to this, I was watering every 2-4 weeks for three hours on a drip (equates to about 20-25 gallons of water). Thank you. From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:45:49 2000 From: gagacha@aol.com (gagacha@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:45:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010030245.TAA11271@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? Thands much for reading my questions Heather From gagacha@aol.com Tue Oct 3 02:46:39 2000 From: gagacha@aol.com (gagacha@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 19:46:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010030246.TAA11377@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? Thands much for reading my questions Heather From adventure@inficad.com Tue Oct 3 06:00:02 2000 From: adventure@inficad.com (adventure@inficad.com) Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 23:00:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010030600.XAA11431@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Why didn't I get fruit this year on my trees? I have an orange, grapefruit, and tangelo tree. I fertilized according to schedule but all I got were green, medium sized oranges, no grapefruit, and tiny black, hard as a rock, tangelos. From Ayeolde@aol.com Tue Oct 3 14:19:39 2000 From: Ayeolde@aol.com (Ayeolde@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 07:19:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010031419.HAA24644@Ag.Arizona.Edu> my question is concerning fruit trees. Each season my tangerine tree loaded with fruit splits and falls to the ground to the tune of 50 or 60 a day. I have an navel orange tree and grapefruit. This never happens to them. They are equally watered and fed. What is wrong with my tangerine tree. I had a arborist spray, trim & fertilize in Feb, of '99. I could use some help. It's happening again. Thank you if you respond From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 3 16:18:41 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tulips References: <200010022247.PAA29552@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DA06E0.9D4DBF45@uswest.net> It is rare that tulips are much more than an annual in our outdoors, although I am sure that somewhere there is a gardener who just loves them so much that s/he does absolutely everything needed to have them bloom year after year. Generally they are planted Nov/Dec timeframe, although NOW is the time to buy the bulbs because they do so much better with 3-4 weeks of chill in your refrigerator. Lack of winter chill is one of the reasons they don't do well if left in ground. Blooms are then anticipated mid-Feb to mid-April. [If you had a cool dark cellar, you could put them there in a container for a couple weeks and then bring back to room temps, forcing the blooms in the pot.] Regardless of the planting calendar I just presented, the daytime temps should drop into the low 80 degree range for optimal performance. Beds need to be prepared with plenty of organic material for drainage and the slight acidifying effect [peat helps this particularly]. Use well-composted manure only if you can wait a few weeks [one reference said six weeks] to allow for the risk of burning your bulbs to abate. Phosphate in your fertilizer is of particular assistance to blooms. If your soil is too heavy [clay] another amendment that can be beneficial is small gravel/pumice or sand. Planting depth is generally 2-3 times the thickness of the bulb, unless it is heavy clay, again. For tulips, the recommended depth in an old UA publication was 6-8" measured at the bulb's base. If ground critters are a problem in your area [you certainly might have run into this in the midwest as well] I believe they are sometimes planted wrapped in a loose wire mesh. A 7-10 day watering schedule should be adequate even in full sun, as long as you are watering deeply, through the bulb zone. A lower nitrogen fertilizer, again with phosphate [e.g. ammonium phosphate 16-20-0] applied 2-3 times during the season will maintain beautiful blooms. Reduce watering after the bloom cycle and do not dig out bulbs until the foliage is completely dry and the bulbs have matured [tan/brown coat is a mature bulb; a white one is not.]. In my experience, daffodils and iris [bulbous varieties like dutch] are hardier, have less chill requirement and can stay in the ground several years. I've never had a tulip come back. Doesn't mean that it can't be done, just that these are fussier and require more care/attention. There used to be an old publication on Bulbs for S. Az. [Q382]. You might call the Cooperative Extension Office and ask the Master Gardener desk if it is still available.602/470-8086 Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Bulb beds should be rotated to avoid nematodes. azgogel@aol.com wrote: > i bought some tulip bulbs that I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <003c01c02d5d$13702920$cb27480c@netzone.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: > i bought some tulip bulbs that >I would like to try and would like to know at what time do I need to plant them. Also >what other things do I need to do to them. I have planted them in the midwest and >have had experience with tulips but this is a new climate for me. these are for the >outdoors, or is it better to force them inside? what bulbs work well here to force >inside? I've done paperwhiles but haven't seen any of them here so far. Thanks In addition to Linda's excellent advice, following is a current article form a local garden club newsletter written by a gardener who has been growing flowering bulbs in the Phoenix area. The article applies to the Phoenix AZ area. -Olin ==================================== BULBS FOR SPRING BLOOMS By Bert Konzal Now is the time to prepare your soil for bulb planting. A little preparation now will produce healthier growth and more beautiful flowers in spring. Bulbs like good drainage and organic matter. It’s best to spade in about four to six inches of organic material along with a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 which is rich in phosphorus and potassium. Bulbs need phosphorus and potassium to keep them strong and healthy. Water the area well and allow it to rest before planting your bulbs. With our warm temperatures it is best not to rush Mother Nature. Buy bulbs as soon as they are available and store them in a cool spot until planting time. The largest bulbs will produce the best flowers. The following favorites do very well in the valley: Ranunculus and Anemone: Plant about November 1st, about two inches deep and about 10 inches apart. Plant ranunculus with claws pointing down and anemone with point down. Keep moist but not wet. Daffodils or Narcissus: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Plant with pointed end up. Dutch Iris: Plant about November 1st, about five to six inches deep and about six to eight inches apart. Tulips: Plant tulip bulbs about around the middle of November, but first you must keep them in your refrigerator for six to eight weeks so they will think they are up North. It’s best to store in paper sack, in vegetable drawer. Plant bulbs about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, about six to nine inches apart. Hyacinths, like tulips, must be kept in the refrigerator in order to have success. Hyacinths do well also in special hyacinth water jars. Freesia: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep, and about six to nine inches apart. Freesia, like all bulbs, like morning sun and afternoon shade if possible. Gladiolus; Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about six to nine inches apart. Gladiolus do well with morning sun and afternoon shade. Petals may burn in the sun especially if corms are planted in December or January. Asiatic Lilies: Plant about November 1st, about six inches deep and about twelve to fifteen inches apart. Do best when they get morning sun and afternoon shade. Amaryllis: Plant bulbs about November 1st to the 15th , require morning sun and afternoon shade. Plant with about two thirds of the bulb above the surface of the ground. The larger the bulb the bigger the flowers. Please note that most of the above mentioned bulbs, corms, or fleshy roots do well in containers as well as in the ground. In containers use a good quality potting soil instead of Arizona soil. From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:14:44 2000 From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com (Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:14:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010031914.MAA00771@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Are you familiar with Hydro-seeding and a variety of lawn grass called "Blue-muda"? I am particularly interested in the allergy problems associated with this variety vs. a tiff hybrid grass. I am also interested in the other features of this grass. A vendor at the Landscape Show was selling hydro-seeding and uses blue-muda. I am considering having him put in my lawn, depending on what I can find out about this grass and this method of planting. Thanks. From Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com Tue Oct 3 19:16:59 2000 From: Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com (Cynthia_DiDomenico@shamrockfoods.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 12:16:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010031916.MAA01220@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you provide me with information on installing your own sprinkler system in a yard? Or is there a web site that would give instructions on how to plan and install an automatic watering system for a residential yard. Thanks. Cindy D From jrosen3408@aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:08:32 2000 From: jrosen3408@aol.com (jrosen3408@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 16:08:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010032308.QAA27299@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you please tell me when to water the desert plants and trees? Some have told me early morning and some have told me evening. Right now we are watering in the evening. Should I change to the mornings now that fall has come? So confusing. Also, is this the best time to prune trees or should I wait until Febuary or March? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:56 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lysiloma loosing leaves Message-ID: The lysiloma tree is quite drough tolerant, however in the low desert it requires regular adequate irrigation. The symptoms that you describe of slow growth, yellow leaves, sparce looking, and leaves dropping are those of inadequate water. This has been one of the hottest spring and summers in recent times in the low desert of southern Arizona, and many people are reporting the loss of trees and shrubs. In most cases the cause is inadequate irrigation. I have taken water requirements from the Sweet Acacia which has similiar requirements to the Lysiloma. U of A Cooperative Extension bulletin MC 53 shows that the Acacia with a 10 foot diameter crown requires between 2.9 and 4.9 gallons of water per day. ( because of the dryness and the heat of the recent summer the higher figure should be used ). Watering on a biweekly basis the tree requires 68.6 gallons of water. When you deep water the water should penetrate to in excess of 3 feet deep. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:01 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning trees and shrubs Message-ID: <14.9d79a68.270bcdb5@aol.com> Good arborcultural practice dictates that trees and shrubs should not be cut back more than 1/3 in one year and 15% at one time. I suspect that management is trying to save money , and there is nothing wrong with that provided the health of the landscape is not affected. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:03:03 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:03:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Blue-muda and Hydroseeding Message-ID: <61.7ac1ae7.270bcdb7@aol.com> Cindy, Blue-muda is a good improved seeded variety of common bermuda grass. Since it is planted from seed it also grows seed and pollen. The hybrid bermudas such as tiff are grown from sod or stolens and are nearly seedless. The hybrids were developed to address the problems to allergy sufferers of the seeded varieties of turf grass. Hydroseeding is a process of applying grass seed to a prepared seed bed in which the grass seed is mixed with water and a binder and sprayed on to a seed bed. This process works especially well on slopes because the binder will hold the seed in place under most conditions. The binder works well in helping to keep the seed moist. I used hydro seeding on a sloped area and it worked well. In a separate email you asked about information on designing your sprinkler system. This info could be of help to you. There are several irrigation suppliers in the valley that will give you an irrigation system design (free) if you buy your supplies from them and their prices are competative with mass merchandizers. Hughes Irrigation formerly Turf Irrigation ( three offices in the valley ) provide this service; Horizon Irrigation is another. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:02:59 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:02:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lady Banks Rose, pruning Message-ID: The Lady Banks Rose is a Species rose and as such requires little pruning. Prune to keep within bounds, to remove dead and crossing canes, and a light pruning in January if you live in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From jamen2@hotmail.com Wed Oct 4 00:42:58 2000 From: jamen2@hotmail.com (jamen2@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 17:42:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010040042.RAA14174@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I keep the Bermuda grass out of my Saint Augestine grass??? Please e-mail me back. Thank you From rabrag@aol.com Wed Oct 4 03:42:37 2000 From: rabrag@aol.com (rabrag@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 20:42:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010040342.UAA08355@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it? From umiller@azdps.com Wed Oct 4 11:58:27 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 04:58:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some of the tiny leaves on my mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling off. While the older leaves are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep coming out. This normally happens in January or February when the entire tree turns yellow and everything falls off. But it's only October and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong. I give it adequate water (deep watering twice a month) and I have been feeding it 3-4 times a year. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help -- Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Some of the tiny = leaves on my=20 mesquite tree are turning yellow and falling off.  While the older = leaves=20 are yellowing and dropping, new ones keep coming out.  This = normally=20 happens in January or February when the entire tree turns yellow and = everything=20 falls off.  But it's only October and I'm wondering what I'm doing=20 wrong.  I give it adequate water (deep watering twice a month) and = I have=20 been feeding it 3-4 times a year.  Does anybody have any=20 ideas?
 
Thanks in = advance for your=20 help --
  =
Ursula = Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C02DBF.BBB245C0-- From jcaveman@aol.com Wed Oct 4 16:33:07 2000 From: jcaveman@aol.com (jcaveman@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 09:33:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010041633.JAA21072@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Three summers ago we had our grass front yard xeriscaped by a supposedly"professional". Most of the original plantings died, and the few remaining have not grown in three years! Before we replant, what steps would you recommend we do? Soil test? Push all the rocks back and till the soil? Can the surviving plants be saved? Thank you. From df.alston@worldnet.att.net Wed Oct 4 17:08:34 2000 From: df.alston@worldnet.att.net (df.alston@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:08:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010041708.KAA29396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I can not put a winter lawn in this fall since we are remodeling our home. Can I plant one in the spring, like in Feb.?We have St. Augustine. What are the temperature requirements for a winter lawn to start? From Tpet1934@aol.com Wed Oct 4 18:57:07 2000 From: Tpet1934@aol.com (Tpet1934@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 11:57:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010041857.LAA22509@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation. Thanks From cambpd@cs.com Wed Oct 4 20:21:18 2000 From: cambpd@cs.com (cambpd@cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:21:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042021.NAA11910@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I here that Texas Root Rot is a problem in the valley and yet I see plants that are listed as highly suseptable such as Texas Sage and Elm Trees almost everywhere that appear to healthy and thriving. How common is Texas Root Rot and is it more common in some parts of the valley than others. From jsferber@aol.com Wed Oct 4 20:33:52 2000 From: jsferber@aol.com (jsferber@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:33:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042033.NAA15425@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time. Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected. I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix. From cnj1@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 20:55:55 2000 From: cnj1@uswest.net (cnj1@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 13:55:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042055.NAA21080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks. From roarh1950@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:18:50 2000 From: roarh1950@aol.com (roarh1950@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 15:18:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042218.PAA12600@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:15 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering time for trees and plants Message-ID: <41.1a5f26e.270d0f17@aol.com> In the low desert evening or early morning watering is recommended to minimise the amount of water lost to evaporization. Now that the weather has started to cool early morning watering would be preferable. Check out the folloowing website for info on time to prune trees: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:28 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing bermuda from St Augustine Message-ID: Sorry but any chemical that will kill bermuda will also kill St Augustine. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:24 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:24 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Plants dying Message-ID: You haven't furnished enough info for me to give you an answer. What are the plants that were planted? When were they planted? How often and how much do you water the plants? Is there caliche in your yard? Is your soil sand or clay? Do you live in Maricopa county? How much sun do they get? Have you applied any chemicals or fertilizer, if so what? Did you have any problems with grass before you changed to Xeroscape? Thanks for your reply. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:40 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Leaves Turning Yellow Message-ID: <79.a683df0.270d0f30@aol.com> Hi Ursula, Stress can can cause a Mesquite tree to drop its leaves and we had a really hot spell about 3 weeks ago which could have caused the leaf drop. You mentioned deep watering, have you checked to make sure that the water is penetrating to 3 feet plus depth? Inadequate water as you well know can cause a leaf drop. Good Luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 4 22:54:25 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 15:54:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening References: <200010042055.NAA21080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DBB521.BD1E1B7B@uswest.net> You can visit the publication section of our website at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable where you can view a vegetable gardening calendar on-line. You can also order publication 8141 "Vegetable Gardening In Containers" from the Cooperative Extension service. Directions on how to order the publications are found at the top of the page. The publications can also be found at some library branches in the valley. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. As for soil, the publication suggests that you use a prepared, light-weight mix such as an indoor plant mix or potting soil that drains well. A homemade substitute made up of equal parts of sharp coarse sand, soil and compost or peat moss will be cheaper. A slow-release balanced fertilizer, such as Osmocote 14-14-14, should be well mixed in at the rate of two ounces to each cubic foot of soil mix. Sue Bass Master Gardener nj1@uswest.net wrote: > Am I able to plant any vegs. right now. If so what type can I grow. I am wanting to plant them in wisky barrels on my back patio. Also what should I put in them as far as dirt is concerned.Please help me out. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 4 22:54:37 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 18:54:37 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overseeding bermuda grass with rye Message-ID: Now is the time to start preparing your bermuda grass for overseeding by cutting back on the water and gradually lowering the cutting height to about 1/2 inch. Planting time is when the nightime low temps are under 55 degrees and the daytime highs are under 90 degrees. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on turf for all the details at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From bfurst@azheart.com Wed Oct 4 23:35:36 2000 From: bfurst@azheart.com (bfurst@azheart.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:35:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042335.QAA01232@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 6" potted pear tree in my foyer. When can I put it outside and why is it getting black edged leaves that fall off. It has new shoots and looks healthy otherwise. From lgmsscience@yahoo.coom Wed Oct 4 23:43:22 2000 From: lgmsscience@yahoo.coom (lgmsscience@yahoo.coom) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 16:43:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010042343.QAA02728@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades. From genebronski@mindspring.com Thu Oct 5 03:06:54 2000 From: genebronski@mindspring.com (genebronski@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 20:06:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010050306.UAA03527@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1. Whatis the frequency of watering and recommended gallonage per watering for ficus trees and California pepper trees? 2. What is the recommended frequency and gallonage per watering for the followinbg plants: hesperaloe, cape honeysuckle, torchglow bougainvillia, Little John bottlebrush, fairy dusters, dwarf oleanders, compact and natel plum? From SBenson@dellnet.com Thu Oct 5 04:39:47 2000 From: SBenson@dellnet.com (SBenson@dellnet.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:39:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010050439.VAA16590@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello. Are Fraxinus Velutina Rio Grande "Fan-Tex" trees,("Fan-Tex" here-in, always a male tree? I want as little litter as possible. Mary Rose Duffield and Warren Jones, in their "Plants for Dry Climates; How to Select, Grow & Enjoy" (1998)", state that for the Fraxinus Velutina, "Inconspicious flowers appear in spring before foliage comes out and bear winged fruit among the leaves of female trees in the spring (p. 99). Will I get less litter from a male Fan-Tex tree? A local nursery says it only purchases male Fan-Tex trees because the males produces less litter. If all Fan-Tex trees are male, can I buy one anywhere? Should I buy my Fan-Tex tree from a nursery that will guarantee that it is male and will produce the least amount of litter? Thank you. Steve Benson (SBenson@dellnet.com) From azgogel@aol.com Thu Oct 5 04:58:42 2000 From: azgogel@aol.com (azgogel@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 21:58:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010050458.VAA19526@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the rate of coverage of rye grass for over seeding? #/sq'? and the fertilizer coverage and schedule? Thanks azgogel@aol.com From MLabe20805@aol.com Thu Oct 5 06:53:35 2000 From: MLabe20805@aol.com (MLabe20805@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 02:53:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia Message-ID: Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated. 5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects. Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins. Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects (10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to cause that kind of damage. Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush? Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com > From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:33:36 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:33:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vines for Full or Partial Shade References: <200010041857.LAA22509@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCAD60.D6C30017@uswest.net> Partial Shade: Violet trumpet vine or Clytostoma callistegioides is good on a cool northern wall, with spring - summer lavender flowers. Star jasmine or Trachelospermum jasminoides, not a true jasmine but an AZ landscape staple that is best with some sun in the eastern/northern exposure but will tolerate full shade. Tiny star shaped white blooms in spring. Heavenly scent. Others are native grape or Cissustrifoliata; queen's wreath or Antigonon leptopus; snail vine or Viga caracalla; and yellow morning glory or Merremia aurea. Deep shade: Algerian Ivy or Hedera canariensis is not for small spaces since it is a rampant grower. Creeping fig of Ficus pumila can attach to most any surface and requires thinning to keep the vine from becoming woody and to maintain the delicate tendril effect. English ivy or Hedera helix is more suitable for smaller spaces. Fatshedera lizei is a good container plant but needs trellsing. Periwinkle or Vinca major is good for groundcover, under trees, covering slopes. Purple leaf wintercreeper or Euonymus fortunei, a vine which can also be used as a groundcover. Tpet1934@aol.com wrote: > Can you name some vines that will grow in full shade or partial shade. I live in Mesa foot hills at about 1800 feet elevation. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 16:47:02 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 09:47:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200010042033.NAA15425@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCB086.57B036DD@uswest.net> Pearl scale is often blamed for poor maintenance practices, but it appears that you have truly identified this as the culprit. I am attaching a missive we recently received on the listserve about the problem. One thing that will be essential, since many lawns, even hybrid bermudas, can fend it off if given a chance, is that the lawn be very well cared for and otherwise kept healthy [good irrigation practice and fertilization, mowing properly, etc.]. These elements are discussed below as well as management which is to (1) acidify the alkaline soil that pearl scale thrive in and (2) try an insecticide product called Merit. It may be too late to make much of a dent, since the grass is approaching dormancy and the pest is best addressed in May, but you can give it a go and certainly will be ready to deal with it next growing season. Good luck, Linda Guy, Master Gardener PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video jsferber@aol.com wrote: > Our tiff lawn has "pearl scale". I have dug down into turf about 10 inches, and I can see small white balls. The lawn has been infected for about 4 years. I have treated it with Tide about 4 times in this period of time. > Until now, I have been holding the disease in check at about 20% of lawn area. Absolutely nothing grows in this area. Recently, the disease has spread. The lawn is now about40% infected. > I would like to save my lawn. Please advise a course of treatment. I live in greater Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:07:20 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:07:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cucumber Mosaic Virus References: <200010042343.QAA02728@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCB548.2D3674B5@uswest.net> Perhaps it is the cucumber mosaic virus. Has anyone suggested this possibility? Many cucumber strains are bred to increase resistance, but I understand from another recent missive on the server that infected seed can be the culprit, as well as the virus vector [insect carrier] hanging out in adjacent plant material. I regret to advise you and your students that if this is the culprit, the plants must be destroyed and your implements well cleaned; a bleach solution soak is probably advisable. Maintaining plant health is the best defense but once the virus is present, removal and cleanliness are the key practices. You could always take a sample to your own county's cooperative extension office, which would be affiliated with the state of Florida's land grant college [which the UA is]. http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/fl.htm Otherwise try to contact them by phone and describe your problem [government listings in the phone directory]. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County, AZ lgmsscience@yahoo.coom wrote: > I attended the U of A, and am now teaching Science in Florida. My students have planted cucumbers, and until recently, the plants have been doing quite well. The plants are in five gallon containers and are watered twice daily and fed a 27-25-12 granual fertilizer monthly because of the loss of nutrients due to being in containers. Now is the important part. The leaves are beginning to show a pattern of polygon shaped areas of different shades of green and yellow. I have asked so many people what it could be and have had more different answers than the number of times I have asked the question. As a result, I have come to the conclusion that either my problem is so uncommon that no one in this area knows how to treat it, or no one in this area has a clue what they are talking about. Due you know the cause of and solution to such a problem? The leaves look like a tile floor of many shades. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:12:45 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:12:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potassium Salt in Irrigation Water References: <200009111605.JAA21644@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCB68D.459D3267@uswest.net> We wouldn't generally recommend it because of the presence of salt already in our soils and water. There are a few plants that seem as if they just love salt, bermuda being one. Here is some input I received from one of our Instructional Specialists at the Cooperative Extension Office: 'I think the Water Softening Companies are marketing the Potassium Salt as "safe" to water your plants. While it is probably better than some, it is still a salt. Deep watering every few irrigation cycles and being wary of salt sensitive plants (we have that soft water pub that lists a bunch) would be good practices to follow. If she has a Bermuda lawn, it will take just about anything even evap. cooling run off without batting an eye, so she could always direct the water to her lawn.' The publication cited #8736 and is found at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil Instructions for ordering it are at the top of the page. Sorry for the delayed response. Linda Guy Master Gardener wmona1807@aol.com wrote: > We have a water softner and is it O K to use potassium salt to water hedges, citrus trees, and such? We live in Sun City, Az. From RAJ@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:22:54 2000 From: RAJ@uswest.net (RAJ@uswest.net) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:22:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010051722.KAA05203@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Dietes and Bowle's Mauve Wallflower have been brown for several months. How do I tell if they are dead or just resting between seasons? They were newly planted in the spring and are on the drip system. From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:24:32 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:24:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites in Lawn References: <200009121450.HAA01411@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCB950.C6C3BE19@uswest.net> I am by no means an expert, but since your question appears to have been around some time, I thought I read up in our publications in an effort to learn a little more and help you out at the same time! It appears there are dry-wood and subterranean termites. The latter feed on wood that is buried or in contact with the ground. Because they must maintain contact with moist soil, they construct long tubes of dirt and wood chips from the soil surface to places where wood is found. These tubes are typically found around the foundation of your house, at windows and door frames or hanging down from ceilings. This suggests that the tubes in your lawn may not be termites.Tubes are also found on fences and trees, because termites are a natural part of the environment removing dead or decaying wood materials. They do not attack living plant matter. If you are able, you could bring a specimen and description of your problem to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. Someone will phone you within a week usually. We also have some publications you can order regarding termites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects notably MC 39, MC 40, MC 80, MC 81. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener foothill@uswest.net wrote: > Termites in the lawn. > I think I have termites in the back portion of my yard. > I've little dirt tubes pop up here and there in my yard. > When I brush them down, sometimes I see little white insects > that look like termites. They aren't on the foundation of my house, the > closest tube I've found is about 12 feet away from the foundation. > Do I need to do anything about them? > > Thanks for any help! From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:32:05 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:32:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scorpions References: <200009181510.IAA10302@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCBB14.ED1449C3@uswest.net> Generally, pesticides used for insects do not work on scorpions unless they are sprayed directly, a difficult thing to do since they are nocturnal. Also, because they don't wash themselves and the shell is very durable, this doesn't always ensure the direct spray will work. Best ways to control them are to make their environment inhospitable, ie remove food sources [cockroaches and crickets] and remove their preferred habitat [rock or wood piles, loose boards, debris, old tires, etc. Please wear gloves!]. Chemical controls are, of course, available in most garden supply stores. If you must take this approach, get out the black light and direct spray if possible. I do like your thought about torching them, which I'm adding as a footnote to our publication on the topic! Unfortunately, you will have to read the labels to see about toxicity for any human or animal life. Linda Guy Master Gardener gmastin@primenet.com wrote: > Dear MCCE, > I live in the "scorpion alley" in Tempe (South Tempe-Mclintock and Warner). I have various other critters in my yard ( garden snakes, lizzards, crickets, snails,etc). > I want to use diazion granules in the rocks to try and control the scorpions( ie. some of the food source). My conern is whether this will also sicken and kill the lizzards and snakes. > If it is directly harmful to the others, what can I use to help with the scorpions and not the others, short of the black light and torch method? > Thank-you, > Gwen MAstin From sirws@hotmail.com Thu Oct 5 17:49:03 2000 From: sirws@hotmail.com (sirws@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 10:49:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010051749.KAA10640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all? From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:41:29 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:41:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raising Cannas References: <200009231536.IAA09986@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCBD49.EE5E5997@uswest.net> Mike, This from the Sunset Western Garden Book since I don't have cannas: A tuberous rooted perennial that is native to tropics and subtropics. Likes sun and needs heavy watering during bloom cycle. Remove faded flowers after bloom. When all flowers have bloomed, cut stalk to the ground. Rootstocks generally planted in spring following frost, in very rich, loose soil. I'm sorry I don't have more information to share, and the delay of our response. With the fall gardening season starting, the volume of questions is really rising! Linda Guy Master Gardener greatmfs@aol.com wrote: > Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. > Thank You mike > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:49:33 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:49:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers References: Message-ID: <39DCBF2D.88F99AE4@uswest.net> Soft bodied insects like these can be addressed with stiff jet sprays of water or the mild soap and water method, particularly for veggies. Other options are insecticidal soaps or the botanical insecticide neem or [this from Sunset] dusting with DE. I don't know the impact on vegetables, so a good read of the label will be important. With any treatment, addressing the underside of leaves is most important. Also, finding and treating the problem as quickly as possible. Sprays for leaf miners will also impact the parasitic wasps that feed on them. Next year, how about putting everything under floating row cover and perhaps avoid the need to spray at all? Sorry for the delayed response. Fall gardening is underway and our inbaskets are burgeoning with questions! Linda Guy Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. > > My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer > damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of > corn. > > But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was > overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a > leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil > mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were > so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. > > What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. > > Thanks in advance, > > - Jim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 17:57:09 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 10:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Money Plant - Lunaria annua (L. biennis) References: <200009252241.PAA27520@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCC0F5.65D8B892@uswest.net> The Sunset Western Garden Book does not indicate that this plant will grow in our zone 13, even though they are said to like sun, poor soil and little water. You'd think that we had all the ingredients here! This is a biennial in the brassicaceae/cruciferae family [cabbage, broccoli, etc.] which we are planting right now in our cool season vegetable patches. So, I'd suggest that you treat them as a cool season annual and see what will happen. I should think that full or partial winter sun in a garden might be tolerable. Also put a few in containers and experiment with the best location. Remember, whatever you do, it was never meant to live more than two seasons in the best of conditions. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener papa-nannie@rkis.com wrote: > Will you please give me instructions for > trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose > (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with > my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. > also will a Money plant grow here? My > sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told > me to soak them before planting, but I can > find no other info on them. thank you for > your help, > Nena Shelton > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:03:41 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:03:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Black Plastic References: <200010051749.KAA10640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCC27D.71B079B7@uswest.net> We haven't recommended black plastic under rock mulch for years and you are wise to further assist your landscape's water needs. Of course, plastic does deteriorate after some years, particularly if it's been walked over. I assume yours is still in tact? But I've often wondered if perforating the plastic wouldn't be a short cut to take? I've seen those spikey sandals that one dons over a pair of shoes to aerate lawns. Mightn't something like that in the rock mulch do the trick? Or poking the soil with another garden implement? It is just a thought, and I'll be interested to see how my colleagues respond to your query and my musings! Linda Guy Master Gardener sirws@hotmail.com wrote: > I just bought a 20 year old house and there is black plastic under the > granite (there is a margin of about 3 ft of granite that surrounds the turf > which covers the majority of the yard). There are 20 year old trees and > some shrubs in there. What is the best way to remove the plastic doing as > little damage as possible to the roots? Should I replace the crushed > granite when I am done? Should I add compost first or not at all? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:10:03 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying Pomegranates References: <200010042218.PAA12600@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCC3FB.BDE6E1B1@uswest.net> The published information I have from the Family and Consumer Services area has recipes for using the pomegranates, but I couldn't find instructions for drying them. You could always phone them at 602/470-8086, x341. This is an autumn fruit which is harvested from September through November. Thin skin with bright color and fresh appearance are considered preferable. Taste testing is the best way to judge their 'readiness'. Linda Guy Master Gardener roarh1950@aol.com wrote: > I have a nice crop of pomegranates this year and would like to dry them for use in Holiday decorations? When should I pick them for this purpose and what is the best way to dry them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:23:04 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:23:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jade Plant - Crassula argentea or ovata References: <200009270305.UAA04525@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCC708.86C0A4D8@uswest.net> My reference materials conflicted on the botanical name, but the photos were very similar. The jade plant is a succulent but it hails from Madagascar and South Africa. They can grow here but need overhead protection from the sun. It is often a container plant on a patio/porch area. They prefer modest amounts of water once established, which I can personally attest to having recently lost a beautiful, fast-growing specimen [3" pot to about 18" across in less than a year] because I got too motherly with the irrigation. I didn't follow my own oft-dispensed advice of checking the moisture in the root ball and it was lost in a matter of days once it succumbed! Use a succulent soil mix that is half grit/pumice to ensure good drainage. Sometimes you can get little pink flowers from November to April. Particularly if outside, remove the saucer so the water is not reabsorbed into the container. Infrequent watering, as already mentioned. Grows as large as the container it is in in a relatively short period of time. I've never taken cuttings from the plant but would suggest trying a rooting hormone and placing the branch in a medium that is kept somewhat moist until roots form. Linda Guy Master Gardener kelarsen@primenet.com wrote: > I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:29:32 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:29:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Alternatives for Pearl Scale References: Message-ID: <39DCC88C.3E2A59DF@uswest.net> Our turf guru recently educated us to the fact that pearl scale is HIGHLY overused as an excuse for failing lawns. To quote from him "Seeded bermuda varieties are more tolerant of Pearl Scale and seem to outgrow it as they are more vigorous growers - keep the grass un-stressed and it can tolerate a Pearl Scale infestation. Even the hybrid sod bermudas can tolerate most levels of Pearl Scale as long as the other care and maintenance factors in the lawn are up-to-speed and the grass is kept as healthy as possible. As with most plants, keep it healthy and it can tolerate a little problem and stay alive." Of course, the hybrid lawns are the ones that are not allergenic. General discussion of turf options are in the Lawn Chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ However, again to refer to our turf specialist, bermuda remains the grass of choice in the full sun of the low desert. Linda Guy Master Gardener JGibson@TriWest.com wrote: > I am looking for alternative grasses that would handle our heat but not be > susceptible to Pearl Scale. Any suggestions? St. Augustine? Santa Ana? > Tiff? > > I was told that it only attacks Bermuda Hybrids. Is this true? > > Are there any other non-allergenic grasses that could work? > > Any assistance is appreciated. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:38:24 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:38:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help References: <200009291839.LAA09874@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCCAA0.EC6B266@uswest.net> If you haven't already contacted your local Cooperative Extension Office and its Master Gardener staff, you're in for a treat. Although I believe your office is in Globe, if I read the map correctly there seems to be a satellite in Payson http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ I hope you didn't miss their gardening conference in Payson last September! One of our server members is a Master Gardener who lives up there, so I hope she sees this note and contacts you directly. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County Carleneebr@aol.com wrote: > This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:42:04 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:42:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Management References: <200009291928.MAA19113@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39DCCB7C.8B4BD07A@uswest.net> We have a nice writeup on managing rabbits at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm which includes fencing dimensions. I don't find any information regarding quail. Perhaps addressing the question to Game and Fish? There are also some references listed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener gmgvt@aol.com wrote: > WE are getting ready to put in a garden area at a senior residential community. WE know we need fencing to keep the rabbits out - but we don't know how high the fencing needs to be. Do we need to make it high enough to discourage quail? Thanks for any assistance you can offer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 18:44:10 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 11:44:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Clippings for Compost References: <000e01c02c0d$16a3bb80$99cac9d0@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <39DCCBFA.7F3EC5E@uswest.net> --------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products have been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if you are inclined to natural or organic techniques. Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors' leaves for the same purpose. Linda Guy Master gardener "David M. Kerr" wrote: > It is prime time for composters. My neighbors are having their lawns > scalped and dethatched for winter lawns. I find the gardeners happy > to let me take the cuttings. It is less work than going to a ranch to > get manure for me. It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take > the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee. It helps if you know some > spanish. I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and > oleanders in my front yard. In a month, they will have lost half > their weight and bulk. I will relocate them to my compost pile. --------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit A wonderful suggestion! It's also good to know what chemical products have been used on the lawns before adding to your pile, particularly if you are inclined to natural or organic techniques.

Over the next two months, we'll also be able to round up our neighbors' leaves for the same purpose.

Linda Guy
Master gardener

"David M. Kerr" wrote:

It is prime time for composters.  My neighbors are having their lawns scalped and dethatched for winter lawns.  I find the gardeners happy to let me take the cuttings.  It is less work than going to a ranch to get manure for me.  It saves the gardeners the time and gas to take the cuttings to the dump and the dump fee.  It helps if  you know some spanish.  I keep the cuttings in piles under citrus trees and oleanders in my front yard.  In a month, they will have lost half their weight and bulk.  I will relocate them to my compost pile.
--------------92AB36C6291A4C421D999527-- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Oct 5 19:06:57 2000 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:06:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden Message-ID: My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got another question. I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem is, everything did poorly. How do I go about diagnosing the problem? The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are stunted. I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I should look for? I'm not sure where to start. - Jim From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:56:51 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:56:51 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden] Message-ID: <39DCDD03.DA793060@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any ideas for Jim? --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 72911 invoked by uid 0); 5 Oct 2000 19:08:07 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 19:08:07 -0000 Received: (qmail 42740 invoked from network); 5 Oct 2000 19:08:06 -0000 Received: from ag.arizona.edu (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 19:08:06 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27571; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:08:02 -0700 (MST) Received: from thcpdc.honors.arizona.edu (Honors.Arizona.EDU [128.196.52.125]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA27423 for ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:07:03 -0700 (MST) Received: by Honors.arizona.edu with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:07:04 -0700 Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 12:06:57 -0700 Message-ID: From: "Jim Bayers" Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: "'arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu'" MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Subject: [Arid_gardener] Diagnosing Failed Garden X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 My thanks to the people who help here. I know you're busy. I've got another question. I planted my first garden here in Tucson, so I didn't expect much. Problem is, everything did poorly. How do I go about diagnosing the problem? The leaves on the corn and snap beans are yellowish and the plants are stunted. I applied a 5-5-5 fertilizer, following the directions. I'm thinking that I may have over watered, or that the cow manure I applied was too 'green'. (It said it was composted) When I pull the plants up, is there anything I should look for? I'm not sure where to start. - Jim _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------B5CA39F517A4E822B8C82124-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Thu Oct 5 19:59:07 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 12:59:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Raising Iris] Message-ID: <39DCDD8B.D83C3B2E@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any iris afficinados out there who can help Mike? --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 90698 invoked by uid 0); 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (204.147.80.23) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: (qmail 77975 invoked from network); 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from imo-d06.mx.aol.com (205.188.157.38) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 5 Oct 2000 18:08:24 -0000 Received: from GreatMFS@aol.com by imo-d06.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.24.) id 9.10.327cf09 (4316) for ; Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:08:08 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 14:08:08 EDT Message-ID: <10.327cf09.270e1d88@aol.com> From: GreatMFS@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Re: Raising Iris MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 118 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thank You for your previous information on Cannas Would like information on Iris. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You Mike --------------3FFC116060AA31BAF4C8D46D-- From Karen Olson" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Regarding scorpions. Chickens and cats. :-) Chickens and cats help = with the control of scorpions. Chickens eat them and cats kill them. = Neither are affected by their sting. KO ------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Regarding scorpions.  Chickens and = cats.  :-)  Chickens and cats help with the control of=20 scorpions.  Chickens eat them and cats kill them.  Neither are = affected by their sting.  KO
------=_NextPart_000_0031_01C02EEE.444A7B80-- From redqueen@netzero.net Fri Oct 6 00:16:47 2000 From: redqueen@netzero.net (redqueen@netzero.net) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 17:16:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010060016.RAA04894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I just moved from Ohio.... From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:16 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rye gras seed, how much to use Message-ID: If you are planting annual rye the recommended rate is 10 to 20 Pounds per 1000 square feet. For perenial rye the rate is 10 to 15 pounds per 1000 square feet. Fertilizer should be applied starting two to three weeks after seeding at the rate of 1/4 to 1/2 pound per 1000 square feet of actual nitrogen. Using amonium phosphate ( 16/20/0 ) at the 1/2 pound rate you should apply 3 pounds per 1000. This rate would apply for November, December and January. For February and March double the previous rate. The above rates are recommended by U. of A. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:18 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees and shrubs Message-ID: <72.3a38e1e.270e7c42@aol.com> Please check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 00:52:17 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:52:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Ash Message-ID: <11.a0b6ca0.270e7c41@aol.com> I am told that the Fraxinus velutina ( Fantex ) is a seedless variety and as such you shouldn't have to worry about seeds. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist. From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <003201c02f43$72f447e0$b926480c@netzone.com> With the Mexican Bird of Paradise, it helps to scarify the seeds, then soak in water overnight before planting. To scarify, rub the seeds with sandpaper to make it easier for moisture to enter the seed. Or use a file at the rounded end of the seed. Keep the medium moist until the seeds germinates. I don't have any experience with lavender but if the seed coat is very hard, it would require similar treatment. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I gleaned some Mexican Bird of Paradise seeds, planted them in a container, and nothing is happening. They have been planted since the beginning of Sept, and are watered once a week. I also had the same problem with lavender seeds which never "took". What am I missing/doing wrong? I just moved from Ohio.... From bjbennett@kna.to Fri Oct 6 12:37:44 2000 From: bjbennett@kna.to (bjbennett@kna.to) Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 05:37:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010061237.FAA19675@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 6 19:11:57 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 15:11:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Root Rot Message-ID: Yes Texas Root Rot is quiute common in the valley (Maricopa County). I have not seen anything published about one area being any worse than others. If you have trees that are now planted be sure to provide adequate irrigation, but do not over water. The fungus that causes Texas Root Rot thrives in moist and alkaline soil. If you are about to plant more trees, I would advise planting either immune ( palm trees ) or the trees that are resistant to TRR. U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin onTexas Root Rot which lists the trees and shrubs that are resistant as well as those that are susceptable, available for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us Sat Oct 7 00:49:55 2000 From: tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us (tberard@cl.wesd.k12.az.us) Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 17:49:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010070049.RAA28724@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1- What environmentally safe steps can I take in order to change my bermuda/weed infested yard into a natural desert landscape. 2- I'm considering planting one or two Chilean Mesquites on the western side of my house. How close to the house and underground utility lines can the trees be? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 02:41:53 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 22:41:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass to desert landscape Message-ID: <9.b81c64d.270fe771@aol.com> You must kill the bermuda grass before you do a desert landscape or you will be in a worse situation than you are now.The only practical way to get rid of bermuda is chemically unless you want to have a four foot deep hole excavated to get rid of all the bermuda roots. then you may not have the bermuda eliminated because the dirt that is used to fill the hole may have bermuda roots in it The recommended method is to kill the bermuda and weeds with a chemical such as Roundup ( glyphosate ). If you intend to do it this fall you must start immediately because the bermuda must be actively growing. If you have been watering regularly and the bermuda is actively growing apply the chemical then wait two weeks to see if you killed it all if not then apply the chemical again. The chemical glyphosate is effective only when it hits the grass. Once it hits the ground it is no longer effective after it dries. If you cannot start right away then you must wait until late spring or early summer when the bermuda is again actively growng. The Chilean Mesquite can grow to 40 foot diameter crown so if you want it to be away from the house then it should be planted 20 feet away. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From joegullo@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 15:53:42 2000 From: joegullo@worldnet.att.net (joegullo@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 08:53:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010071553.IAA27561@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do you dry eucalyptus? From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat Oct 7 17:49:26 2000 From: fscapellit@mindspring.com (fscapellit@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 10:49:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010071749.KAA07615@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is this a resting time for my euryops?? All six of them have brown tinges on the tips, but one, I'm afraid is dying, is all turning brown. Did we put too much mulch in the ground? We've turned off the drip irrigation and water them by hand every other weekend....just enough to hope the roots are watered. Thank you. From jmausphx@worldnet.att.net Sat Oct 7 20:44:19 2000 From: jmausphx@worldnet.att.net (jmausphx@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:44:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010072044.NAA25384@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have what I think is an ash tree which has a number of branches that are dying. It started last spring. now half the tree has branches with dead leaves. It is in a flood irrigation yard. It didn't get a lot of water last winter due to SRP dry up and no rain. Any ideas? Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:02 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus, drying Message-ID: Your question was how do you dry Eucalyptus, if you are referring to firewood, just leave it out in the sun for about six months, it will burn great. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Oct 7 22:26:09 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 18:26:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree dying Message-ID: If the dead leaves are still hanging on to the branches, this is one of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot. The only positive way to find this out is to bring a root sample to U.of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040. the Sample should be finger to thumb size and 12 inches long. The Diagnostic Clinic meets on Friday morning, and the sample should be as fresh as possible. If the Ash was without water for two to three months last winter it could have become stressed to the point where it would be easy for a pathogen to attack. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From annathome@worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 8 02:54:07 2000 From: annathome@worldnet.att.net (annathome@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 19:54:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010080254.TAA01134@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have lost several Hibiscus plants, I think they had Texas Root Rot. Is my soil now contaminated, if I plant more hibiscus will the also get it? (The plants were 4 years old) From TPET1934@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 18:49:58 2000 From: TPET1934@AOL.COM (TPET1934@AOL.COM) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:49:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010081849.LAA01865@Ag.Arizona.Edu> WE HAVE A BOUGAINVILLEA BUSH THAT HAS NOT PRODUCED ANY RED BRACTS, IT'S BEEN IN THE GROUND FOR OVER A YEAR AND LOOKS HEALTHY OTHER WISE. From jbcook@erols.com Sun Oct 8 19:13:16 2000 From: jbcook@erols.com (jbcook@erols.com) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:13:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010081913.MAA04796@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Sun Oct 8 19:16:44 2000 From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM (MADASMITH@AOL.COM) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:16:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010081916.MAA05121@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I NEED TO KNOW IF IT IS TO LATE TO PLANT BOUGAINVILLEA. I WILL BE PLANTING IT ON THE WEST SIDE OF A BLOCK FENCE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:03 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot Message-ID: <17.c00fd2d.271244a3@aol.com> If your Hibiscus did have Texas Root Rot the fungus will always be in the soil unless you apply a chemical such as Vapam to kill the fungus. The alternative is too plant an immune species such as agaves, Bird of Paradise, yucca, or pampas grass. U of A Extension at 4341 E. Broadway,Phoenix 85040 has a bulletin titled "Root Rot in Arizona" for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:08 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, not producing red bracts Message-ID: There are two things that will reduce the bract production, the first is too much shade, and the other is too much water. If you watered every two to three weeks in summer once the plant is established it should be very happy. Bougainvillea is usually well established after one year in the ground. I have several Bougainvillea and I removed the drippers after the first year, and they bloom their heads off. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 8 21:44:12 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:44:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting Message-ID: <71.744d32d.271244ac@aol.com> It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take it out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their roots disturbed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Oct 8 21:52:10 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:52:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing In-Reply-To: <71.744d32d.271244ac@aol.com> Message-ID: I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM To: MADASMITH@aol.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take it out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their roots disturbed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:01:37 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:01:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purchasing MG Manual References: <200010081913.MAA04796@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E10AE0.6F351FDE@uswest.net> The MG Manual and the MG Entomology Manual may be purchased from the UA in Tucson, in addition to being viewed online. Consult http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/quarterly.html jbcook@erols.com wrote: > Would like to know whether your manual is for sale. Would like to order it for my daughter-in-law, who lives in the Phoenix area and would like to learn all about gardening. I use the Fairfax County manual at work(Burke Nursery) and found that very informative. My daughter-in-law is from Virginia and therefore is not familiar with gardening(especially not desert gardening). Would appreciate your answer. Beatrice Cook > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 9 00:27:10 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 17:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wild Tulips for Zones 9 & 10 Message-ID: <39E110DD.F2C2BA6D@uswest.net> Further to your inquiry regarding tulips in Phoenix; you might be interested in some material that I discovered today in the McClure & Zimmerman bulb catalog for Fall 2000. In addition to confirming our previous advice to treat regular tulip bulbs, after a period of refrigerator chilling [remove all fruit so that the ethylene gas does not kill the flower embryon], as an annual, they suggested five wild tulips that don't need a cold period to flower and that they claim naturalize well in southern states [which doesn't mean our area necessarily]. You can order a collection of all 5 [6 each for a total of 30 bulbs] for $15.95 plus s&h. I can't attest to how well they will do here, but if you are interested...... Tulipa sylvestris, t. bakeri 'Lilac Wonder', t. clusiana var. chrysantha, t. clusiana, and t. saxatalis. http://www.mzbulb.com/ Linda From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Oct 9 15:05:26 2000 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:05:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting, root disturbing References: Message-ID: <39E1DEB6.AD65F412@email.sps.mot.com> The way I have prevented disturbing the root system is to dig the hole. Cut the bottom of the pot out with a utility knife. Stick pot and plant in the hole, and put soil all the way around the pot. Next on one side of the pot I slice the plastic, all the way up the side with the utility knife and pull the plastic pot out. The soil falls in around the plant, so no harm is done. This has been very successful in all plants that I've planted. In particular roses, because most times the soil is very loose in the rose pots, and falls off as I'm trying to pull the rose out. alan Ursula Miller wrote: > I have had experience with this business of root disturbing and have learned > that when you buy bougainvillea, you have to check the roots in the pot at > the nursery. If you tug on the plant and it comes out of the potting soil > easily -- don't buy it because at home you'll end up with loose roots and > I've never had one of those survive in the yard. I've found that it's best > to buy one with the roots nice and tight around the soil. Then, when you > plant it, you cut away the pot from the roots - first cut out the bottom of > the pot and then make a cut down the side of the pot. That way, the roots > and soil stays intact. (This works easily with the 1-gallon pots because > they're small; it's probably a big cutting job with the 3-gallon pots.) > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com > Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2000 2:44 PM > To: MADASMITH@aol.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea, planting > > It is a good time of year to plant Bougainvillea. Be careful when you take > it > out of the pot and not disturb the roots, they do not like having their > roots > disturbed. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Motorola Semiconductor Products Sector R. Alan Zelhart CAD Software Asset Management 2100 East Elliot Road; Mail Drop EL714 Tempe, Arizona 85284 Sunset Zone: 13 - Metro Phoenix Work Phone: (480) 413-3470 Home Phone: (480) 699-3977 Cell Phone: (602) 692-4037 Pager: (888) 996-9501 Fax: (480) 413-5723 "You can't create a reputation you haven't earned" --Robert W. Galvin From Oilybird@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 17:13:18 2000 From: Oilybird@AOL.com (Oilybird@AOL.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:13:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010091713.KAA05957@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy otherwise. From cdavidson@az.rmci.net Mon Oct 9 17:54:17 2000 From: cdavidson@az.rmci.net (cdavidson@az.rmci.net) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:54:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010091754.KAA15962@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My question is on a Shamel Ash. On the south side of the trunk, there are patches where the bark is gone and a white patch remains. There is also yellow-brown sap running down that side of the trunk. I only notice one tiny hole near one area where the sap is running. The tree is about 5 years old. From TJGaccione@AOL.com Mon Oct 9 21:46:54 2000 From: TJGaccione@AOL.com (TJGaccione@AOL.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:46:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010092146.OAA14527@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have poplar trees in our grass and around our yard. They send sucker shoots all over. My husband is afraid that the roots under the ground will grow thick and come out of the ground and ruin our whole yard. He is planning to have them removed. They are about three years old and 30-40 feet tall. Is there anything we can do to save these trees? Please help if you can. I am sick about this. Deana Gaccione From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:01:50 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:01:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tangerine tree lost leaves Message-ID: A dramatic change in temperature can cause citrus to drop it's leaves, but in this case I suspect inadequate irrigation. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigationat the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:02:07 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:02:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Shamel Ash has lost bark Message-ID: I suspect that what you are seeing on the Ash tree is sun burn which has caused the bark to fall off leaving bare wood. The tree should be either painted white or wrapped wih a material like burlap to prevent the sun burn until the crown is wide enough to shade the trunk.The running sap is no doubt caused by stress. Is the tree being watered adequately? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 9 23:23:33 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 19:23:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Popular trees Message-ID: <80.13ab87c.2713ad75@aol.com> The Popular trees can become vary invasive especially if grown in a grass lawn, they can crack walks and driveways, enter your sewer or septic field and plug them, and the roots will surface as the tree grows. Sorry but your husband is on target on this one. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From j_l_cooper@hotmail.com Mon Oct 9 23:34:24 2000 From: j_l_cooper@hotmail.com (j_l_cooper@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 16:34:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010092334.QAA06440@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 10 00:14:27 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 17:14:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200010091713.KAA05957@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: My grapefruit tree lost a bunch of leaves, too, during the last couple of months probably also due to not enough watering. I think I underestimated the damage that the unusually L-O-O-O-N-G hot summer can do. Anyway, I finally figured it out, gave it several deep waterings and now it seems to be doing fine -- getting lots of new, shiny green leaves. So maybe that's all yours needs - a couple more deep waterings and the cooler weather we're starting to have. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Oilybird@aol.com Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:13 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a large tangerine tree in my back yard that has lost two-thirds of it's leaves in the last couple of months. Is this normal? It seems healthy otherwise. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Bcd2533@aol.com Tue Oct 10 04:50:51 2000 From: Bcd2533@aol.com (Bcd2533@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:50:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010100450.VAA24016@Ag.Arizona.Edu> For the hot summer months my watering went as such: lawn (20 minutes, 3 times a week) and plants (2 1/2 hours (drippers), 2 times a week). What should I cut that back to in the fall and winter? Were these good for the summer months? They were recommended by a florist. Everything looks pretty decent at that watering rate. Thank you. From saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov Tue Oct 10 12:25:28 2000 From: saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov (saguero@ntis.fedworld.gov) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 05:25:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010101225.FAA29002@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Va. and have a palm planted in my backyard. Someone told me you have to wrap the palms in burlap for the winter. Is this right, and if so, can you tell me how to do it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:13 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms planted in Virginia Message-ID: You didn't say what kind of palm tree you have nor what the climate is where you live, so I'm afraid I won't be able to help you. I'm sure that the weather conditions in Va. are quite different from Phoenix Arizona where I'm located. Please check with your county Cooperative Extension, they will know your local conditions and be able to answer your questions.They will be listed in the phone book under county government. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 10 23:16:04 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 19:16:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fall and winter watering Message-ID: <2f.b97927a.2714fd34@aol.com> For winter watering of plants and trees in the low desert tyhe irrigation interval should be increased 3 to 4 times from the summer watering. If you do not over seed with rye grass and your grass is bermuda the irrigation interval should be increased about 5 times. Do this gradually from what you are doing now. Since you didn't tell me what your plants are I'm unable to advise you about them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:10:23 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:10:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net> I cannot find a reference to lab lob and cannot otherwise identify your plant with the limited description. Do you have the botanical name? Have you approached the nursery from which it was originally purchased? Linda Guy Master Gardener spiessman@uswest.net wrote: > is the lab lob bean that grows on a vine that has purple blooms and purple pods edible. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:19:06 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:19:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gopher Problem? References: <200009262247.PAA20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E3255A.CCC70494@uswest.net> Since the gophers that most often reside in soft soils, presumably to make it easier to tunnel, it is unlikely that this is your culprit. They are vegetarian, liking roots and bulbs in particular. Once established, they can indeed cause extensive damage to landscaping. We have a publication on the topic, which you can order by 'clicking' on publications for Maricopa County at our website [look under insects & pests for Q403. I would provide you with a link in this message, but our server is down and I cannot access the particular page of our website at this time. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener dickcarmi@aol.com wrote: > I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:27:18 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:27:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Golden Barrel [Echinocactus] Offsets References: <200010040342.UAA08355@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E32746.698A05C5@uswest.net> My reference material suggests that mature offsets, which have begun to form their own roots can be detached from the parent to grow in separate pots. It does not suggest a drying period, which is often done with cuttings to form a callus and prevent rot. Another, and probably better, resource for you would be the Desert Botanical Garden's hotline, 10-11:30 am, M-F, 480-941-1225. By the way, my book says that this cactus' nickname is mother-in-law's seat. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener rabrag@aol.com wrote: > My Golden Barrell cactus has developed a "baby" on its' side. Can I gently remove it > and plant it? Should I let it dry for a few days before I plant it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:31:11 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:31:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvillia References: Message-ID: <39E3282E.E03F4257@uswest.net> I don't have specific advice for you, but if none of my colleagues has yet replied, I invite you to bring samples to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office. There is a weekly staff/volunteer meeting to diagnosis problems, after which someone will call you with diagnosis and management advice. The address is 4300 block of East Broadway Road. The address for this, and a satellite office which may be closer to you, are listed on the page of our website where you originally placed your question. I would provide you with a link to this site but our server is down at this time and I can't access our web pages. Linda Guy Master Gardener MLabe20805@aol.com wrote: > Haveseveral Bouganvillia bushes in area. The leaves have become decimated. > 5o% of them suffer from brown irregular shapes as if eaten by small insects. > Brown lines go through leaves. Do appear along edges and along leaf veins. > Most of the brown lines go completelythrough the leaf. No sign of insects > (10/4/00) on leaves.... Inspected with magnifying glass. I live in Chandler > Az. Brought samples to nursery and given the explanation that "because of the > thorny nature of the bush coupled with windy days, the thorns tear/scrarch > the leaves as they blow against the thorns. I looked carefully at one of the > bushes attempting to confirm if there are enough thorns to have caused such > wide spread damage. My observations suggest it is not likely considering the > wide spread damage and the sparseness of thorns, by comparison, required to > cause that kind of damage. > > Do you have any advice/suggestions as to cause of damage described? Is the > reason given by the nursery valid for that type bush? > > Sincerely, Michael LaBella < mlabe20805@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Oct 10 14:36:00 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 07:36:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Moving Succulents to Colorado References: <200010061237.FAA19675@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E32950.A2D77A52@uswest.net> Your best bet will be to contact the equivalent agency [the local county's Cooperative Extension Office] and discuss their particular climate and soil conditions. Keeping the plants in containers and moving them indoors as the weather got severe might just be your best option. You can probably find the office on the web [if they post a site] but at least start with the Colorado State website at http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/ Good luck with your pending move. Linda Guy Master Gardener bjbennett@kna.to wrote: > Unfortunately, due to my husband's job, we are moving up to Colorado. I want to take my plants with me!! My question involves my 1 ft. Pygmy Date Palm, A 3ft. tall Fishhook Barrel cactus, and the Hedgehog cactus. We will be in Central/Southern Co, so do you think they will survive the winters or what measures do you think will help them? Perhaps if I cover them? The average winter temp is around 28 degrees, so not much colder than where I am now in Casa Grande, but I'm afraid it would be too much. Please let me know your thoughts!! Thanks so much!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From obeles" I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north. (Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested with others. Thanks for your help. From zazasmama@home.com Wed Oct 11 07:17:55 2000 From: zazasmama@home.com (zazasmama@home.com) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 00:17:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010110717.AAA00508@Ag.Arizona.Edu> On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard. In it it mentions that he plants dwarf varieties of similar need citrus together. (Two to four trees in the same, large hole) Anyone have anymore information on this? We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 13:55:32 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 06:55:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dwarf Citrus References: <200010110717.AAA00508@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E47154.79C364A7@uswest.net> As I recall, he was affiliated with the Rare Fruit Growers chapter here. You might try contacting them in an effort to reach him directly. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener zazasmama@home.com wrote: > On July 12, 2000 The Arizona Republic ran an > article about Rick Bryson's fruit orchard. > In it it mentions that he plants dwarf > varieties of similar need citrus together. > (Two to four trees in the same, large hole) > Anyone have anymore information on this? > We're about to plant our citrus grove. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:00:06 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:00:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rotten Yucca References: <005201c03335$69acf600$44c10e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <39E47265.B682547F@uswest.net> The entomology chapter of the MG Manual has a single root related pest of ornamentals, the palo verde borer. However there is an agave weevil that is also a root feeder and can cause rot. Check our summary at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/agave-wv.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener obeles wrote: > I have two yuccas side by side in my front yard, facing north. > (Unfortunately, I don't know what kind of yuccas they are so I can't be more > specific). The other day I discovered one of the plants had developed what > looked like root rot. When I pulled the plant out of the ground, I noticed > a fat, yellowish grub-like creature eating at the roots. What could this > be? Is this what caused the rot? Will the other plant become infected? I > squished the bug that I could see, but don't know if the soil is infested > with others. Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:02 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:02 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean] Message-ID: <39E4738E.393D9A5C@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit From one of our server members. --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 29548 invoked by uid 0); 11 Oct 2000 01:44:32 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (204.147.80.18) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:44:32 -0000 Received: (qmail 24110 invoked from network); 11 Oct 2000 01:44:22 -0000 Received: from pimout1-ext.prodigy.net (HELO pimout1-int.prodigy.net) (207.115.63.77) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:44:22 -0000 Received: from 0016164664 (nas-160-144.phoenix-t.navipath.net [64.20.160.144] (may be forged)) by pimout1-int.prodigy.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id e9B1iBp103572 for ; Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:44:12 -0400 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:43:21 -0700 Message-ID: <000201c03324$a432b640$90a01440@0016164664> From: "Pauline Marx" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean Organization: Prodigy Internet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Lab Lab bean is the common name for Dolichis lablab. It is also called Hyacinth bean or Eygyptian Bean. The pods are edible but I have no recipes for cooking them Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona --------------F8272D93F78B656C6F6980AC-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:05:51 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:05:51 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean] Message-ID: <39E473BF.F63AE116@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ditto from same server member. Linda --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 18116 invoked by uid 0); 11 Oct 2000 01:52:24 -0000 Received: from mail5.uswest.net (204.147.80.23) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:52:24 -0000 Received: (qmail 325 invoked from network); 11 Oct 2000 01:52:23 -0000 Received: from pimout1-ext.prodigy.net (HELO pimout1-int.prodigy.net) (207.115.63.77) by mail5.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Oct 2000 01:52:23 -0000 Received: from 0016164664 (nas-160-144.phoenix-t.navipath.net [64.20.160.144] (may be forged)) by pimout1-int.prodigy.net (8.10.1/8.10.1) with SMTP id e9B1qMp59154 for ; Tue, 10 Oct 2000 21:52:22 -0400 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 18:51:30 -0700 Message-ID: <000401c03325$c805be40$90a01440@0016164664> From: "Pauline Marx" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200010022233.PAA26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <39E3234F.CB256087@uswest.net> Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Lab Lob Bean Organization: Prodigy Internet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 The correct name of the lablab bean plant. is DOLICHOS lablab. It is grown for food in warm regions and as an ornamental annual elsewhere. It grows from 10 to 30 feet. It has leaves with 3 leaflets, purple or white flowers and velvety pods containing white and purple edible beans. Pauline Marx, Moderator for the Prodigy Gardens Master Gardener Maricopa County Arizona --------------95ED8092280848FC123E2A5F-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:13:56 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:13:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Poolside Landscaping References: <200010092334.QAA06440@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E475A4.856C2146@uswest.net> We have an excellent publication that is available to you online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Its in the section on ornamentals. Linda Guy Master Gardener j_l_cooper@hotmail.com wrote: > I am landscaping my pool area. It has two palm trees on the west side, a palm tree on the ne corner and a red hibiscus in the nw corner. I want something to cover the cement walls on the north and east side of the pool. I would prefer low watering needs and not messy (of course). I was hoping for a tropical theme. Any suggestions? Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 14:26:10 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 07:26:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Entomology Manual Message-ID: <39E47881.371B3CAB@uswest.net> Does anyone know if the MG Entomology Manual (1994) which the UA sells for $7, is any different than the same chapter in the MG Manual (1998)? When using the hyperlink to the html version listed on the UA's publication page, I got sent to the MG Manual, presumably for that chapter. Is there any point in purchasing it separately from the MG Manual ($36)? Thanks! Linda From currens123@aol.com Wed Oct 11 15:58:37 2000 From: currens123@aol.com (currens123@aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 08:58:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010111558.IAA28088@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Trees without thorns that will do well in Buckeye. From birds16@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 17:02:55 2000 From: birds16@uswest.net (birds16@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:02:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010111702.KAA14236@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I think our bottle trees have root rot. They have been very healthy and are now drooping, turning yellow and loosing leaves. The area is kind of wet and from listening to a garden show it sounds like root rot. What can be done to save these trees? Thank you. Pam From dckelly@sedona.net Wed Oct 11 17:27:53 2000 From: dckelly@sedona.net (dckelly@sedona.net) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 10:27:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010111727.KAA19899@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Should your fertilize native plants such as salvia greggii. If so, what kind of fertilizer? From sjbass@uswest.net Wed Oct 11 22:31:04 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 15:31:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival Message-ID: <39E4EA28.B28EEF13@uswest.net> Subject: Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival! I wanted to let you know about the first annual Gilbert Community Garden Pumpkin Festival, coming October 21st. It will be held at the site of the Gilbert community garden (called Cooley Heritage Community Garden), on the SE corner of Gilbert Rd & Elliot Rd. The hours will be around 8-5 (or later?) Saturday October 21, although some pumpkins may be available for sale the previous Friday afternoon. This event allows the community garden plot owners to raise money to grow all their goodies! Some participants include the Boys & Girls Club, the YMCA, Kiwanis, and Gilbert Elementary schools. The MG Program will also have a presence at the festival. The festival is planning to include pumpkins for sale and carving, the local farmer's market, bake sales & other food vendors, etc. Also, Gilbert Elementary will hold a fun house for the younger kids, which will go great with the face painting and pumpkin photo ops! In addition, swing dancers are planned in attendance late afternoon on Saturday. This is a great chance to both help out our brand new community garden, and have lots of fun! Also, there are additional booth spots available for organizations interested in a presence at the festival...AND there are still some plots available for groups and individuals to participate in the community garden. So collect your friends and family, and come have a great time! Maeve Dion MG Intern maevedion@yahoo.com ===== Maeve Dion maevedion@yahoo.com From bobbsorg@email.msn.com Wed Oct 11 23:43:40 2000 From: bobbsorg@email.msn.com (bobbsorg@email.msn.com) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 16:43:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010112343.QAA17841@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am trying to find out when to plant herbs outside. I have some planted inside and want to transplant them. Also, can they be planted directly outside in full sun??? I had a lavendar plant that was planted for months -- went through more than half of the summer and then died. What did I do wrong? Actually, what should I have done to keep it alive. Any tips on herbs would be helfpul. Is there a natural way to get rid of insects on plants? Are there are grants available re: natural insect control -- both on plants and in homes -- who would I need to contact on this?? Thank you in advance for your help. From dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com Thu Oct 12 04:04:31 2000 From: dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com (dolphin_dream7@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2000 21:04:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010120404.VAA25698@Ag.Arizona.Edu> my sister recently planted verigated privets in front of green pittisporum...the privets are apprx. 2 feet tall...the pitts are the same height...question: how much can she take off from the height of the privets and also how can she promote growth at the base of the privets ?..she is in houston tx...so has a usually warm winter...need prunning instructions as we are novices....thanx... From cambpd@cs.com Thu Oct 12 14:48:24 2000 From: cambpd@cs.com (cambpd@cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 07:48:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121448.HAA09595@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can you tell the difference between the Southern Live Oak (Quercus Virginiana)and the Heritage veriety of Q. Virginiana in young nursury plants. Is there a noticable difference in the leaves. Also, I have read that the Heritage vartiety is best for the low desert areas (Phoenix). Why is that and what is the difference in the growth habits that make the Heritage better for this area. Are the differences significant? The Heritage variety is hard to find. Most nursuries don't have it while others either don't know of it or claim it is the same as other Southern Live Oaks. Thanks. From patriots@intermind.net Thu Oct 12 15:23:54 2000 From: patriots@intermind.net (patriots@intermind.net) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 08:23:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121523.IAA15863@Ag.Arizona.Edu> can bores attack chil. mesquite trees what is the treatment thank you sean From kathygeb@home.com Thu Oct 12 16:18:58 2000 From: kathygeb@home.com (kathygeb@home.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 09:18:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121618.JAA28638@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Meyer's lemon tree is loosing leaves on same branch. Lost seven leaves in one night. Leaves are still green, no apparent reason. Could you please tell me what the problem could be? From saz621@primenet.com Thu Oct 12 18:04:55 2000 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:04:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Heritage oak References: <200010121448.HAA09595@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39E5FD45.7EF52BE9@primenet.com> Quercus virginiana the southern live oak has a very large range that extends in Texas from the Gulf of Mexico coast through the southern half of the state and on into the arid western region, known ludicrously as West Texas. The most western populations are often known as Quercus fusiformis, a point on which wise people have no opinion. 'Heritage' is a form that was found, saved, and whose seedlings have been sold with that name for many years. It is generally more heat tolerant than many live oaks, a bit more upright in form, although there is so much variation. In what is known as the Hill Country of Texas where soils are thin, underlain with limestone and therefore very alkaline, and live oaks are abundant, their progeny can do well here and they might be called southern live oak, hill country live oak, 'Heritage' oak, or Quercus fusiformis. So, it is very difficult to tell 'Heritage' without a tag saying so. More recently growers of this selection are attempting to grow it from cuttings so that it will be a bit more uniform. Good luck, Mary Irish From theazhalls@juno.com Thu Oct 12 18:01:28 2000 From: theazhalls@juno.com (theazhalls@juno.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:01:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121801.LAA21916@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Sorry for the long post. I have a willow acacia about 25 ft high. I have myoporum as a ground cover but it's not doing well, I assume because of the shade. The acacia is heaving the ground up to eight inches around the trunk, and shoots runners as far out as twice the crown diameter, which I'm afraid will eventually choke my nearby palo brea. It's hard to clean the myoporum without damaging it. I'd like to plant a shade tolerant grass underneath the tree. My thinking is I can runover the leaf drop and the runners with the lawn mower. Is there a suitable grass for this? Also, can I knock down or rototill some of the heaved dirt and root without the tree falling over? I'm open to alternative suggestions. Thanks. From weimeraa@aol.com Thu Oct 12 18:31:41 2000 From: weimeraa@aol.com (weimeraa@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 11:31:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121831.LAA29116@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have moved to Sun City. Everything I have planted has been eaten by the rabbits! Do you have any suggestions for herbs and flowers that the rabbits will not eat? Thank you for any help you are able to offer. From pllawrence@hotmail.com Thu Oct 12 19:42:18 2000 From: pllawrence@hotmail.com (pllawrence@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 12:42:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010121942.MAA14674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there anything that can be done to stop or curb production of seed pods on ash trees? They are very messay and attract birds. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:12 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash trees, preenting seeds Message-ID: <78.b57b472.27178fd4@aol.com> Sorry but there is no way to prevent the seeds from forming on an Ash tree. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:06:03 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:06:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Borers attacking Mesquite tree Message-ID: Sean, Yes borers can attack the Mesquite tree. Unfortunately there is no treatment. The best thing you can do is to keep the tree as healthy as possible with deep water irrigation and some fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Oct 12 22:08:03 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2000 18:08:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle trees loosing leaves Message-ID: Pam, I suspect that the problem with your bottle trees is too much water since you said that the area was wet. One of the symptoms of Texas Root Rot is that the leaves turn brown very quickly and hang on to the tree. This doesn't mean that your tree doesn't have TRR , it is still posible but not likely. Whereas the yellow dropping leaves is indictive of too much water. You can determine if TRR is present by taking a root sample to the U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Dig up roots finger to thumb size about 12 inches long. A diagnostic clinic meets every Friday morning. you do not have to be there, but the fresher the sample the better the chance of identifying the problem. If you do take the root sample to the Extension please take a copy of this email with you. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri Oct 13 14:29:59 2000 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 10:29:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] ocotillo Message-ID: <5a.bc2bc93.27187667@aol.com> I have the opportunity next week to dig up and plant in my desert yard 5 huge ocotillo plants from a lot that is being scraped off. I remember that you had directions recently to do this successfully. Can you send them again? I didn't save them. thx B From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 13 22:08:06 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 18:08:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash Tree problems Message-ID: <71.7684ffe.2718e1c6@aol.com> I neglected to include one other problem that could be affecting your Ash tree when I responded to your question recently. Arizona Ash Decline has symptoms similiar to Texas Root Rot in that the leaves turn brown and hang on to the tree. The biggest difference is that the decline occurs over a period of time whereas with Texas Root Rot the decline occurs quiute rapidly. Unfortunately the cause for Arizona Ash Decline is unknown as is a control. The best thing you can do is to make sure that the tree is deep watered byweekly in the summer and monthly in the winter along with proper fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From aprosser@talleyds.com Fri Oct 13 22:13:38 2000 From: aprosser@talleyds.com (aprosser@talleyds.com) Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 15:13:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010132213.PAA28802@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have and African Sumac tree approx. 15 yrs old. Several times a year it's leaves begin turning yellow and dropping off. So far I have treated it with alka-leache and deep watering and that seems to bring it back some what, but the tree never is the lush full green as others I see in my area. This one usually appears to be a gray-green, just hanging in there, kind of color. What could this be please? From umiller@azdps.com Sat Oct 14 03:26:41 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:26:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Rabbits In-Reply-To: <200010121831.LAA29116@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I know exactly what you're talking about. I live in Peoria and the rabbits are everywhere - and I don't even like rabbit stew!!!! If you'll go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-June/004443.html you should find a list that I compiled of plants that rabbits don't like. One way to deal with them, of course, is fencing - putting fences around the plants when they're small and then removing the fences when the bush gets big. That way the rabbits just eat the bottoms. They're even eating the bottom leaves of my grapefruit tree, which is actually fine with me because they'd have to do some heavy-duty eating to eat the whole tree. The usual documented techniques for keeping rabbits away have not worked for me. This includes spreading blood meal and other things like that. Supposedly mothballs keep them away; but who wants a yard that smells like mothballs? And I, who considers myself to be fairly bright, have not done a good job at all of outsmarting them. One plant which I don't think I included on the list is the wildflower Desert Marigold. It's a small plant with very pretty daisy-like flowers that are also great for cutting. But you can't buy Desert Marigold as plants; you have to buy the seeds and sow them outdoors. I've done it and the rabbits don't eat them. If you'll go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=ra bbits&submit=Search and enter the word rabbits, you'll find other discussions about the pesky critters. Also, if you have rabbits, keep an eye on your dripper lines. The rabbits have bitten through several of my lines and I've had little geysers from time to time. You will develop a new appreciation for Elmer Fudd's travails. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of weimeraa@aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 11:32 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have moved to Sun City. Everything I have planted has been eaten by the rabbits! Do you have any suggestions for herbs and flowers that the rabbits will not eat? Thank you for any help you are able to offer. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From crhesse@yahoo.com Sat Oct 14 09:59:44 2000 From: crhesse@yahoo.com (crhesse@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 02:59:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010140959.CAA02315@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I take a sample of my soil to have an analysis done? Everything is starting to die on me after living in this house 12 years. From rconklin@trip.net Sat Oct 14 12:35:14 2000 From: rconklin@trip.net (rconklin@trip.net) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 05:35:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010141235.FAA20018@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have recently purchased land in South Texas. I remember as a child my mother taking an avocado seed puting it in water until it roots and planting it into a pot. It grew into a beautiful plant. I've rooted two and wanted to know if planted in the ground will they produce avocados and if, as other fruit trees, you need two. I'd appreciate any information you can give me. Thanks From OLMTREE@aol.com Sat Oct 14 15:07:53 2000 From: OLMTREE@aol.com (OLMTREE@aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 11:07:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying goards Message-ID: <97.be4a9e1.2719d0c9@aol.com> Madams and Sirs, We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be very thankful. Page Olmsted Olmtree@aol.com From JDymndol@aol.com Sat Oct 14 17:34:50 2000 From: JDymndol@aol.com (JDymndol@aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 10:34:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010141734.KAA13598@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 10/5 we had a landscaping company work with our front yard. They determined that one of the smaller foothill palo verdes could re re-located. When this smaller palo verde was dug up it turned out it was a "pup" or "sucker" with only one root to the "mother tree" It is about the size of a 36" box palo verde. It was replanted with a drip system. Itis not looking well. The branches are drying out although the trunk is still green. This started in less than a week. We are now told that it doesn't stand much of a chance but to wait it out ?? We were also told to really deep water it. Our question is... Have we also jeopardized the "mother" tree. What has been your experience in moving "pups?" Any special treatment you can reccommend ? We live in North Scottsdale area. Any suggestion will help as this is a beautiful tree. Thanks Judi From bchorner@netzone.com Sat Oct 14 19:13:45 2000 From: bchorner@netzone.com (bchorner@netzone.com) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 12:13:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010141913.MAA24132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When constructing hiking trails, sometimes we "must" remove a hedgehog or pincusion or a small barrel. We don't have a good time frame like we do at home to attend to the plants. What would be the proper method in transplanting any of the above. Thanks From hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Sat Oct 14 21:05:19 2000 From: hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net (hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 14 Oct 2000 14:05:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010142105.OAA04961@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 22 year old grapefruit tree that is peeling it's bark and weeping. Until last November it was shaded by a pine tree. I suspect the sudden need to acclimate to direct sun this past summer has something to do with the distress. Several branches have withered and died this past summer. Is there anything I can do to stop the peeling, weeping and dying? I've already wrapped most of the branches in burlap. So far one side of the tree appears to be unaffected (the side that was most distant from the shading pine tree); it is bearing good fruit in abundance. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 15 05:09:15 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 01:09:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Soil test Message-ID: <9c.8215fb0.271a95fb@aol.com> Look in the yellow pages under Laboratories, Testing. Their listings will indicate if they test soils. I have used IAS Laboratories 2515 E. University, Phoenix several times and been very satisfied. Are you sure that your trees and plants are being watered adequately. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From doug007@ibm.net Sun Oct 15 18:24:02 2000 From: doug007@ibm.net (doug007@ibm.net) Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 11:24:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010151824.LAA08768@Ag.Arizona.Edu> disease of pyracantha, vine is dying in areas leaves are brown in areas. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 15 20:49:12 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 16:49:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pyracantha with brown leaves Message-ID: <33.b72ea83.271b7248@aol.com> Doug, Pyracantha is susceptable to Fireblight, Texas Root Rot, iron chlorosis, and will be short lived if the plant is root bound when planted. Since you didn't mention anything that looks like the branches were blowtorched the Fireblight is eliminated. Improper irrigation could cause the leaves to turn brown. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pacsmith@att.net Mon Oct 16 01:14:13 2000 From: pacsmith@att.net (pacsmith@att.net) Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 18:14:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010160114.SAA24590@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm fairly certain that our Chinese Elm died from Texas root rot. I had planned to take a sample to the Extension Service, but have been unable to get over there early Friday morning. Once the tree has been dead, is it still possible to analyze what killed it? Is Friday morning the only time I can have this done? Also, I am trying to decide what to plant in its place, something that will not be susceptible to root rot. Would Chilean mesquite be a good choice? My practice has been to deep water our trees for six or seven hours every seven to 10 days during the summer. Could this have had something to do with the root rot by keeping the soil to moist? From clydic@netzone.com Mon Oct 16 03:39:28 2000 From: clydic@netzone.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Sun, 15 Oct 2000 20:39:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help In-Reply-To: <39DCCAA0.EC6B266@uswest.net> Message-ID: Hello Carlene, and welcome to the High Country! Our county extension agent, Chris Jones, is a great arborist and could help you. I'm not an expert on fruit trees, however, there are a number of orchards in the Payson area whose owners could assist. Feel free to contact me via e-mail or call the county extension office in Globe at 520) 425-7179 and talk with Chris; we should be able to give you some direction. Carol Lydic Gila County Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 11:38 AM To: Carleneebr@aol.com Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: [Arid_gardener] High Country Horticultural Help If you haven't already contacted your local Cooperative Extension Office and its Master Gardener staff, you're in for a treat. Although I believe your office is in Globe, if I read the map correctly there seems to be a satellite in Payson http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ I hope you didn't miss their gardening conference in Payson last September! One of our server members is a Master Gardener who lives up there, so I hope she sees this note and contacts you directly. Linda Guy Master Gardener Maricopa County Carleneebr@aol.com wrote: > This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 15:57:46 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 08:57:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying goards References: <97.be4a9e1.2719d0c9@aol.com> Message-ID: <39EB257A.AECF4623@uswest.net> While I do not actually know the answer, I know exactly from whom to secure it. In our listing of Garden clubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm you will find links to the Southwest Gourd Association and fellow Master Gardener Frank Martin. They will be represented at the Fall Garden Fair down at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. See the listing for 10-28 at http://aquinas.agforbes.arizona.edu/garden/ They always have beautiful crafts on display. Linda Guy Master Gardener OLMTREE@aol.com wrote: > Madams and Sirs, > > We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them > in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be > very thankful. > > Page Olmsted > Olmtree@aol.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:02:31 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:02:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus/Succulents Transplants from the Wild References: <200010141913.MAA24132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39EB2697.F1ED575F@uswest.net> I really don't have a good suggestion for you, but since the Desert Botanical Garden does so much research and presumably culling out in the 'field', I wonder that they wouldn't be a very good resource for you. Their plant hotline is open M-F, 10 to 11:40 am at 480/941-1225. There are also undoubtedly issues related to laws protecting certain native plants, which you'll want to get familiar with. We have a summary on our website to get you started at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/native.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener bchorner@netzone.com wrote: > When constructing hiking trails, sometimes we "must" remove a hedgehog or pincusion or a small barrel. We don't have a good time frame like we do at home to attend to the plants. What would be the proper method in transplanting any of the above. > > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dg.anderson@home.com Mon Oct 16 16:09:20 2000 From: dg.anderson@home.com (Douglas Anderson) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:09:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <000e01c0378b$71913f20$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my = yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching? ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can the grass clippings that I removed = by scalping=20 and de-thatching my yard be re-apply over rye seed as a=20 mulching?
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C03750.C5187680-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:19:55 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:19:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot Diagnosis References: <200010160114.SAA24590@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39EB2AAB.A24CBADF@uswest.net> The diagnostic meeting is for the Master Gardener volunteers and staff, not I am told, the general public. The reason you were told about the time was so that you could get the freshest possible material to the committee [ie cut it and deliver it on Thursday afternoon]. There is an area at the Master Gardener desk that is the collection point. You could also see if there's a satellite office nearby that might confirm your suspicion about TRR. Locations and office hours are posted on the same page where you placed your questions http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener pacsmith@att.net wrote: > I'm fairly certain that our Chinese Elm died from Texas root rot. I had planned to take a sample to the Extension Service, but have been unable to get over there early Friday morning. Once the tree has been dead, is it still possible to analyze what killed it? Is Friday morning the only time I can have this done? > Also, I am trying to decide what to plant in its place, something that will not be susceptible to root rot. Would Chilean mesquite be a good choice? > My practice has been to deep water our trees for six or seven hours every seven to 10 days during the summer. Could this have had something to do with the root rot by keeping the soil to moist? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:45:04 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:45:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Fruit Split References: <200010031419.HAA24644@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39EB3090.749CEF85@uswest.net> This condition is usually thought to be a result of inappropriate watering practices. You can see a discussion of this under September's or October's Timely Tips at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/sept.htm The only recommendation is to study up on good irrigation practices [see AZ 1151 at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus and implement them for next year's fruit production. Fertilization is recommended three times a year [Feb/Mar May/June Aug/Sept]. If your trees were not fertilized since 1999, perhaps that's an issue. I cannot comment on the foliar spray, not knowing what is was and for what purpose. Your tangelo may be more sensitive than the navel or grapefruit. It may also fare less well because they typically prefer a situation where cross-pollination is available [vs. self-pollination]. You might glean some other insights from our pub AZ 1001 discussing different citrus varieties, their strengths and weaknesses. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ayeolde@aol.com wrote: > my question is concerning fruit trees. Each season my tangerine tree loaded with fruit splits and falls to the ground to the tune of 50 or 60 a day. I have an navel orange tree and grapefruit. This never happens to them. They are equally watered and fed. What is wrong with my tangerine tree. I had a arborist spray, trim & fertilize in Feb, of '99. I could use some help. It's happening again. Thank you if you respond > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 16 16:34:30 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 09:34:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation and Planting Season Info References: <200010030245.TAA11271@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39EB2E16.2948A8F1@uswest.net> You've asked some fairly broad questions to which I'll provide some general reference materials and guidance to get you started. Our Maricopa County Home Horticulture website is an excellent resource for you http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ as well as the Master Gardener Manual which is also online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ This is particularly helpful for determining irrigation needs. You are indeed correct that we have all at one time or another killed our plants with an overabundance of water, complicated by clay soil's tendency to hold same. It is so important to do deep waterings at the appropriate frequency [or infrequency, depending on the plant material] to leach harmful salts from the root zone as well as supply the correct amount of water. For planting time and other seasonal gardening chores, as well as help diagnosing problems typically arising in the month in question, Timely Tips is a big help. Our list of publications [select Maricopa County on screen 2] helps with specific guidance by garden topic; some publications are online. Others are sometimes found in the reference section of the public library in call code 635. All can be ordered with instructions found on the publications page. Other watering resources include those of the city of Phoenix http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/treeshrb.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html which we helped to prepare Hope this gets you growing. Linda Guy Master Gardener gagacha@aol.com wrote: > I heard on the news a lot of people over water there plants feeling bad for then because of the heat and that a lot of plants get over watered and end up dead. How often should I be watering my flowers and bushes and vines and how much water? Does it differ from season to season. > Also what is ideal planting for fall and what should not be planted in the fall? > > Thands much for reading my questions > Heather > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Oct 16 17:16:33 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:16:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Texas Root Rot Message-ID: <7a.b7a12c4.271c91f1@aol.com> Some of the symptoms of TRR are a very rapid decline of the tree, frequently a week or less; the leaves will hang on to the tree; also one or more branches are frequently affected leaving one or more branches with green leaves. Sometimes there will be a white to tan spore mass near the trunk. Yes, you can bring in a root sample to the Cooperative Extension after the tree is dead, for an examination, and this can be done on any working day. Keep the root sample as fresh as possible, do not wash, place in a plastic bag and keep in the refrigerator until it is brought in. Before you plant any tree in the site that is known to have TRR the site should be treated with a chemical such as Vapam unless you plant a palm which is immune to TRR. The Chilean Mesquite would be a good choice or any other desert adapted tree that is resistant to TRR. Your watering practice was on target for summer watering in the low desert. I usually test the soil at the end of the irrigation interval to make sure that the soil is not too wet by using a probe inserted into the ground. Yes, an over wet soil condition is an invitation for the TRR fungi to become active. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Olin Miller" <39EB257A.AECF4623@uswest.net> Message-ID: <002401c037c0$ca82eb80$2326480c@netzone.com> I am a novice at this myself but I am following the advice from the New Mexico Cooperative Extension Service at http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/yard/1996/111896.html except I am not drilling holes. I believe that would only be indicated for the large gourds. Olin ============== The first consideration is good air circulation. Place them in a place with good air circulation all around them. This air should be dry, but here in New Mexico that is the easy part. Don't let the gourds touch each other while they are drying. This helps the air circulation and to prevent the spread of rot if some do begin to rot. The surface on which they rest should not hold moisture. A wire mesh surface would be the best, but a table top is also adequate. Turning them periodically helps them to dry and allows you to detect rot early and dispose of affected gourds. Now the hard part. It can take six or more months for them to dry properly. Some people will drill pinholes at the ends of the fruit to speed the drying process, but even so, it takes many months. Be patient. Be sure the gourds are mature before harvest. Leave them on the vines as long as possible to mature. Gourds harvested before they are sufficiently mature will be much more likely to rot before drying. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------- Southwest Yard & Garden Main | 2000 | 1999 | 1998 | 1997 | 1996 | Submit Question | Search ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid gardener server" Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 8:57 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying goards > While I do not actually know the answer, I know exactly from whom to secure it. > In our listing of Garden clubs at > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm > you will find links to the Southwest Gourd Association and fellow Master > Gardener Frank Martin. > > They will be represented at the Fall Garden Fair down at Maricopa County > Cooperative Extension. See the listing for 10-28 at > http://aquinas.agforbes.arizona.edu/garden/ > They always have beautiful crafts on display. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > OLMTREE@aol.com wrote: > > > Madams and Sirs, > > > > We are in search of the method of drying goards. We assume you pierce them > > in some manner, however, we are not sure. If you would respond we would be > > very thankful. > > > > Page Olmsted > > Olmtree@aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From yiayia1@prodigy.net Tue Oct 17 01:13:06 2000 From: yiayia1@prodigy.net (yiayia1@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 18:13:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010170113.SAA28800@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our Chi Chi Ruellia looks awfully ratty now. Should we be pruning it back and where can we find a book that tells when and how to prune plants in Arizona? We've bought several books, including the Sunset Gardening in the Southwest book but we have yet to find a definitive book on care for all the plants listed. We would really appreciate your assistance. Also, we used to grow roses in the Northeast, but we have yet to find a good source for rose bushes out here. HELP!! Thanks, Connie & Andrew Georghiou From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 02:31:09 2000 From: andysan37@hotmail.com (andysan37@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:31:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010170231.TAA11551@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 02:34:38 2000 From: andysan37@hotmail.com (andysan37@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:34:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010170234.TAA11859@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From tawneyto@citlink.net Tue Oct 17 02:40:42 2000 From: tawneyto@citlink.net (tawneyto@citlink.net) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:40:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010170240.TAA12957@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How and when do you prune AZ bird of paradise bush. Does it require alot of water. From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 17 02:48:17 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 19:48:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200010170113.SAA28800@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Try PRUNING, PLANTING AND CARE - JOHNSON'S GUIDE TO GARDENING PLANTS FOR THE ARID WEST BY Eric A Johnson. I think Borders carries it. I know that Amazon.com does. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of yiayia1@prodigy.net Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 6:13 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Our Chi Chi Ruellia looks awfully ratty now. Should we be pruning it back and where can we find a book that tells when and how to prune plants in Arizona? We've bought several books, including the Sunset Gardening in the Southwest book but we have yet to find a definitive book on care for all the plants listed. We would really appreciate your assistance. Also, we used to grow roses in the Northeast, but we have yet to find a good source for rose bushes out here. HELP!! Thanks, Connie & Andrew Georghiou _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 17 03:42:35 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 23:42:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Plant care for new comers to the low desert Message-ID: <95.1de36fb.271d24ab@aol.com> Connie and Andrew, I'm not familiar with the variety chi chi Ruella, however I grow three other varieties of Ruella all of which do not look their best in the winter, but they all are still looking great. Could it be that your irrigation is not on target ? My favorite book for info on plant care and the merits of most of the plants that grow in the low desert is PLANTS FOR DRY CLIMATES by Duffield and Jones. You asked about a supplier for roses. My favorite rose nurseries are Berridge Nursery, 4647 E. Camelback, Phoenix who stock their bareroot roses in sawdust bins so that buyers can inspect the roots, and Harpers Nursery who sell only potted roses and have locations in Scottsdale and Mesa The Master Gardener Manual is probably one of the best if not the best and most comprehensive books available and it is all on line. You will find info on pruning at the following: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html From there you can access the index for a listing of all the info available in this book which is the basis for the master gardener training. If you intend to plant roses I would recommend that you visit and become a member of one of the local rose societies of which there are five in the valley. Be my guest at the Mesa East Valley Rose Society rose show which will be held on November 18 at Mesa Comunity College Student Center from 1.00 to 4.00 PM. While there visit the over 3000 bush rose garden, the largest public rose garden in the Southwest, and if you have questions about growing roses there will be several Consulting Rosarians available. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Oct 17 16:39:06 2000 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:39:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowering Vines Message-ID: <8.b99e53a.271ddaaa@aol.com> I recently purchased a park model in Superstition Sunrise Luxury R.V. Resort, locate in Apache Junction, Az. It's has a Cement block wall behind it. I want to plant a fast growing, flowering, vine that will cover the cement block wall, but don't know what will grown in that area.I live in Michigan, and only live in Apache Junction, Az. in the winter months.Found a letter you wrote, on the internet, and noted - you live in A.Z.and are a Master Gardener Volunteer. Hope you can help. Second letter received with more information. My first reply suggested bougainvillea and requested more information. Earnests reply is below. I forgot to tell him the various zones that are applicable for this area. Jean Subj: Re: Flowering Vines Date: 10/15/00 5:06:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Earnest@Centurytel.net (Ernie Humphrey) To: JeanSciFi@aol.com The Wall I Speak of, is on the EAST end of my Lot. The plants would be exposed to the North, South, and West Sun. The Grass on the other side of the Wall is Watered in the AM and again in the PM, each time they water the lawn there is about 2" of water in the grass before it seeps away. We are only planing on being there Jan., Feb., and Mar. at least this winter - {this will be our 1st. year of retirement}. Yes , go ahead and forward this letter to the Arid Gardener Board so that other Master Gardeners may be able to help me find something too: Thank you so Very much From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Oct 17 17:09:30 2000 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 10:09:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowering Vines References: <8.b99e53a.271ddaaa@aol.com> Message-ID: <39EC87CA.80A4E2E5@email.sps.mot.com> The first vine I thought of was Cat's Claw. I use this at home, and you can see pictures of it on my website (listed below), if you would like. It will devour the fence once it is established, for me that was the 2nd year. I do have to prune it back on the other side of the fence, once per year. In the spring it is completely covered with beautiful yellow, trumpet shaped flowers, about 2 to 3 inches long. There is occasional and spuradic bloom there after. Very east to prune, and once established takes very little water. You will not need to use a latice or any thing to hold it up, except maybe some string the first year. Once it catches hold, it climbs up with now problem. It is not even phased by heat, and I enjoy it, because it looks so lush and green, even in desert landscaping. Mine gets drip irrigation about once a week, but with the sprinklers on the other side of the fence, I don't think you'll have to much trouble once it's established. If you are planting it on your side of the fence you might want to water it while your their the first year. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > I recently purchased a park model in Superstition Sunrise Luxury R.V. > Resort, locate in Apache Junction, Az. It's has a Cement block wall behind > it. I want to plant a fast growing, flowering, vine that will cover the > cement block wall, but don't know what will grown in that area.I live in > Michigan, and only live in Apache Junction, Az. in the winter months.Found a > letter you wrote, on the internet, and noted - you live in A.Z.and are a > Master Gardener Volunteer. > > Hope you can help. > > Second letter received with more information. My first reply suggested > bougainvillea and requested more information. Earnests reply is below. I > forgot to tell him the various zones that are applicable for this area. Jean > > Subj: Re: Flowering Vines > Date: 10/15/00 5:06:19 PM US Mountain Standard Time > From: Earnest@Centurytel.net (Ernie Humphrey) > To: JeanSciFi@aol.com > > The Wall I Speak of, is on the EAST end of my Lot. The plants would be > exposed to the North, South, and West Sun. The Grass on the other side of > the Wall is Watered in the AM and again in the PM, each time they water the > lawn there is about 2" of water in the grass before it seeps away. We are > only planing on being there Jan., Feb., and Mar. at least this winter - > {this will be our 1st. year of retirement}. Yes , go ahead and forward this > letter to the Arid Gardener Board so that other Master Gardeners may be > able to help me find something too: > > Thank you so Very much > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From andysan37@hotmail.com Tue Oct 17 18:40:44 2000 From: andysan37@hotmail.com (andysan37@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:40:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010171840.LAA00953@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. And what is the normal water schedule? From pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Oct 17 18:47:03 2000 From: pattib@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Patti Baciewicz) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 11:47:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: goat head stickers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001017114250.029c39c0@ag.arizona.edu> We are still inundated with them. Apparently you need to get the whole root out, or the more the better. They will take longer to come back. The only solution I came up with is hand picking. It is taking years with no end in sight. I've used Roundup and they will die off, but I swear they still come back. I am no expert except for my experiences with them. I will cc your question to our master gardeners, they should be able to help. Good luck! patti B. At 06:04 PM 10/17/2000 +0000, you wrote: >Hi, Patti. My name is Susan Reich. I was trying to find information on >Goat Heads on the internet and came across a web page with cinversation >between you and others about these stickers. I hope you're still at this >address. > >My husband and I just bought a house in COlorado and we will be >landscaping the back yard in the spring...we hope. Our property in the >back is full of these goat head stickers, however. I'm trying to find out >how to get rid of them so we can plant grass seed or sod in the >spring. We were hoping to use Round-Up or something along that line to >steralize the ground, then till it under, but after hearing how hardy >these weeds are, I'm wondering if that will work. > >If you have any information on getting rid of these weeds, or any helpful >advise, I would really appreciate it! > >Thank you! >Susan Reich >bonesreich@hotmail.com >_________________________________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > >Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at >http://profiles.msn.com. > From HRB85373@aol.com Tue Oct 17 20:48:45 2000 From: HRB85373@aol.com (HRB85373@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 13:48:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010172048.NAA10151@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have found wounds on the branches of my orange tree about 5-6 feet above the grounds. Looks like something eating at the bark, yet can see no teeth marks. Down to the white wood under the outer bark. 2 to 3 inches in length, 1 -2 inches wide. Some smaller. Any ideas? Thanks! From emardick@brg.com Tue Oct 17 23:02:09 2000 From: emardick@brg.com (Ella Mardick) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 16:02:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cats claw Message-ID: <3.0.32.20001017160209.009aa7c0@mail> How deep does Cats Claw roots grow/travel ? Am interested in possibly planting this near a leach bed and septic tank which are in use. Also, is this plant poisonous to animals (horses)? From umiller@azdps.com Tue Oct 17 23:29:42 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 16:29:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200010171840.LAA00953@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: My Xeriscape leaflet that I picked up at one of the garden centers says this about Bird of Paradise: "Provide deep watering every two weeks while blooming in order to prolong flowering and keep plants healthy" "Chlorosis can occur in heavy soils but is easily treated with iron chelate. The deciduous varieties can be pruned back severely during the winter when they are dormat and new growth will occur in the spring. This pruning will also keep the form more round and compact." I hope this helps. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of andysan37@hotmail.com Sent: Tuesday, October 17, 2000 11:41 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. And what is the normal water schedule? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 00:29:20 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:29:20 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Bird of Paradise Message-ID: If you are referring to the Red Bird of Paradise ( Caesalpinia pulcherrima ), the plant with all the orange red blossoms, you can cut it back after it stops blooming. I usually cut back about 1/3 of the total height, however the amount that you cut back is up to you. Some people will cut back to 6 inches high. Once the plant is etablished ( 2 years ) watering once a month should be adequate in the summer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 00:29:13 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 20:29:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:African Sumac with yellow leaves Message-ID: Yellow leaves can indicate either too much water or not enough. The leaf drop can indicate a stress which would probably mean that the tree has not been getting enough water. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html If you still have questions please get back to me. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From petermarshall@uswest.net Wed Oct 18 07:07:46 2000 From: petermarshall@uswest.net (petermarshall@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 00:07:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010180707.AAA05707@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help! I have 2 Grapefruit trees that appear to be being ravaged by some disease of some sort. Half of each tree is now completely brown and seemingly dead. It started out limb by limb. The bark is peeling away on all the affected limbs and dripping sap. Do you have any ideas on what's ailing my trees and how to cure the problem. If it is a parasite or pest problem, are there any ways to cure the problem without the use of pesticides? I would really appreciate your help. Thanks. Peter From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Wed Oct 18 15:05:30 2000 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:05:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] bird/paradise Message-ID: <20001018150530.29481.qmail@web313.mail.yahoo.com> I usually cut mine back to about 10-12 inches in Jan. Watering during the HOT summer every 7-10 days and 2-3 weeks in the winter --- andysan37@hotmail.com wrote: > When, and how do you prune the AZ bird of paradise. > And what is the normal water schedule? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Messenger - Talk while you surf! It's FREE. http://im.yahoo.com/ From lnovack@prodigy.net Wed Oct 18 15:46:52 2000 From: lnovack@prodigy.net (lnovack@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:46:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010181546.IAA06412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm a recent widow livungthe Queen Creek Area. My husband took care of all our outdoor needs to I'm starting from scratch so to speak. I have several Queen Palms. They have a lot of brown fronds and in general do not look too happy. I have a bag of Vigoro for Palm, Ixora and Ornamentals. It is a 9-4-9 plus minors mixture. If you could advise me on how to use it, the watering of the trees, etc. I would surely appreaite it. Thank you. Lorraine Novack From tandm3543@aol.com Wed Oct 18 15:48:21 2000 From: tandm3543@aol.com (tandm3543@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 08:48:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010181548.IAA06789@Ag.Arizona.Edu> like to know when to cut my grapes back and how far to cut them back From gsboucher@home.com Wed Oct 18 16:22:25 2000 From: gsboucher@home.com (gsboucher@home.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 09:22:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010181622.JAA18262@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? From dddhb@aol.com Wed Oct 18 18:04:12 2000 From: dddhb@aol.com (dddhb@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 11:04:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010181804.LAA21813@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What can I do to help my Italian Cypress trees? I have 5 and two are splitting from the top. They are approximately 20 feet tall and two of the trees are splitting into two trunks (down about 7 feet). They are also turning dry and brown. From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <002601c03935$56654060$e822480c@netzone.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: > like to know when to cut my grapes back and how far to cut them back ====================================================== Following are the recommendations for pruning grapes in the low desert scanned from Maricopa County Fact Sheet MC 59, "Backyard grapes" -Olin Pruning Mature Plants - Long Cane System Handle anytime from early January into early February. From the main trunk on cane pruned varieties (Thompson seedless, Black Monukka and Concord) select 4 canes which are smooth and light tan in color. Have two of these canes near the top of the vine and two farther down on the main trunk. Cut back these four canes so that only 12 to 15 buds remain on each cane. These will be the fruiting canes. Then select four more canes, one below each fruiting cane and cut back to two buds. These will be the renewal spurs and will provide the canes one will select from the following year for fruiting canes. When the grapes are pruned in late winter some bleeding may occur at these cuts. Canes will normally tolerate this. Improper dormant pruning will eliminate its ability to bear grapes for that season. Pruning Mature Plants - Cordon System Varieties such as Perlette, Flame seedless, Cardinal and Exotic are trained to cordons which consist of two permanent arms extending two to two and a out horizontally from the head of the vine. These cordons must be trained on a wire initially but become rigid and self supporting by the 3rd or 4th year. Buds on these cordons will produce upright shoot growth (spurs) which is thinned to 6 to 7 spurs per arm or 12 to 14 total for the vine. The pruning of cordon trained vines is simply cutting all cane growth produced the previous summer except two buds (the spur) extending above the main cordon arm. These spurs, each two buds long, will produce the crop that season. The spurs will extend higher above the cordon arm each season. As two buds are added to their total length. From rc_42@hotmail.com Wed Oct 18 20:53:19 2000 From: rc_42@hotmail.com (rc_42@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 13:53:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010182053.NAA14523@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <000601c0394d$c68f02a0$c321480c@netzone.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: > I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? ======================== Pub. AZ1022 ( "Planting Guidlines, Container trees and Shrubs") contains recommendations for staking. See: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf for the complete publication. The text of the staking section follows: Staking Trees Stake trees only if they cannot stand without support or if threatened by wind, frost heaving, or similar problems. I. Use only two stakes. Place them outside the root ball and irrigation well at right angles to the prevailing wind (see detail). Make sure stakes penetrate undisturbed soil at least six inches. 2. To determine the height to place the ties, hold trunk with one hand a few inches above ground. If trunk bends over, move up the trunk a few inches and try again. Continue until you find the lowest point on trunk at which it will not bend. Place ties about six inches above this point. Use one set of ties only. 3. Horticultural tape can be used to tie small trees. Tie wire and webbing can be used on larger trees with thick bark. if using tie wire and reinforced garden hose, thread wire through the hose as shown. The garden hose should be just long enough to loop around the trunk. Twist wires to keep the garden hose from moving along the wire. The trunk should not move inside the garden hose loop. Fasten wires to stake so the cut ends are between the stake and the tree, not exposed on the outside of the stake. Twist wires to tighten. There should be enough slack to allow the trunk and garden hose to move as a unit. Cut the stakes off below the canopy to prevent wounds to branches. Inspect and loosen wires periodically as the tree grows to avoid girdling the trunk. Remove stakes as soon as possible, generally within a year . From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 22:18:47 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 18:18:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cypress trees splitting from top Message-ID: I don't have enough info to make a recommendation for your Cypress trees. I would suggest that you call in an arborist for an appraisal since you may have a hazardous situation. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Oct 18 23:50:25 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 19:50:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Palm tree care Message-ID: Lorraine, There is an excellent bulletin on line on palm tree care at; http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Palms should be fertilized with a fertilizer for palm trees which includes the micro nutrients manganese, magnesium, and iron and applied three to four times of year starting in Feb and ending in October. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Be sure that you are watering properly. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Thu Oct 19 03:00:56 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 20:00:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Staking In-Reply-To: <000601c0394d$c68f02a0$c321480c@netzone.com> Message-ID: Hi - I've been confused about this myself, having also bought a Chilean mesquite about 3 years ago. The nursery said the same thing and then I read to not stake it. I took the stake out after the first year and ended up staking it again because I was concerned about it blowing over during a storm since the roots weren't all that well-developed and it did an awful lot of bending in the wind. My husband pounded the original stake back into the ground where it was earlier and we used my old stockings to tie the tree to the stake. (The stockings are good because they are strong, stretch as the tree grows and also have a little bit of 'give' - thereby preventing any cutting into the bark.) I guess my plan worked because the tree is doing very well and doesn't appear to be in jeopardy of falling over. I removed the ties a few months ago, but left the stake - just in case it wasn't ready yet. But it has weathered the few storms we've had with no problem. I think that it is recommended to remove the stakes because the tree bending in the wind makes the trunk stronger. But if it bends too much ---- BOOOOOM. (Keep in mind that I'm not a master gardener - just someone who learns from an awful lot of experiences.) Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Olin Miller Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 2:52 PM To: rc_42@hotmail.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Tree Staking ----- Original Message ----- From: > I bought a chilean mesquite and was told to leave the stakes in with the tree for 3 years. This week I was told NOT to leave the stakes in so I took them out and the tree is leaning way over. I called the Nursery and they said to restake it. How do I stake this kind of tree? I am having another one planted this Friday. Do I leave it staked or not? ======================== Pub. AZ1022 ( "Planting Guidlines, Container trees and Shrubs") contains recommendations for staking. See: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf for the complete publication. The text of the staking section follows: Staking Trees Stake trees only if they cannot stand without support or if threatened by wind, frost heaving, or similar problems. I. Use only two stakes. Place them outside the root ball and irrigation well at right angles to the prevailing wind (see detail). Make sure stakes penetrate undisturbed soil at least six inches. 2. To determine the height to place the ties, hold trunk with one hand a few inches above ground. If trunk bends over, move up the trunk a few inches and try again. Continue until you find the lowest point on trunk at which it will not bend. Place ties about six inches above this point. Use one set of ties only. 3. Horticultural tape can be used to tie small trees. Tie wire and webbing can be used on larger trees with thick bark. if using tie wire and reinforced garden hose, thread wire through the hose as shown. The garden hose should be just long enough to loop around the trunk. Twist wires to keep the garden hose from moving along the wire. The trunk should not move inside the garden hose loop. Fasten wires to stake so the cut ends are between the stake and the tree, not exposed on the outside of the stake. Twist wires to tighten. There should be enough slack to allow the trunk and garden hose to move as a unit. Cut the stakes off below the canopy to prevent wounds to branches. Inspect and loosen wires periodically as the tree grows to avoid girdling the trunk. Remove stakes as soon as possible, generally within a year . _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KimoBimo@aol.com Thu Oct 19 05:49:47 2000 From: KimoBimo@aol.com (KimoBimo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Oct 2000 22:49:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010190549.WAA28982@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My question pertains to pomegranate trees/shrubs. Should I be concerned with future root problems with pomegranate trees planted too close to the house foundation? I have both a dwarf pomegranate and what now seems to be a 8'+ pomegranate tree. No problem with digging them both up now since they are less than 3 years old before incurring major damage to my house's foundation. Thanks very much for your advice. 10/18/00 From mhills@seedsolutions.com Thu Oct 19 08:12:30 2000 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 01:12:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] question - acacia Message-ID: <001501c039a5$a75c3940$bf09a8c0@mhills> A neighbor has a 6 year old Australian Acacia that I believe is called the "Golden Wattle Acacia" - short tree about 15 feet tall and wide with multi trunks. Long thin "leaves" similar to the Willow Leaf Acacia, but a brighter green color. Blooms in Spring with lots of bright yellow flowers. Recently the tree has shown serious and severe stress symtons, with about 50%+ of leaves brown and falling off the tree - went downhill almost overnight. Stems and branches ranging from twigs to 2 inch diamter seem to be sunburned black and dead or dying scattered all over the tree. The live leaves look fine and do not seem to be continuing to die. In fact, there are some new buds and new growth appearing on the still living branches. As usual with many landscaper installed trees in Phoenix, the 1original drip emitter is close to the trunk and only puts out a couple of gallons a week. The tree does get water from other shrubs and flowerbeds within its dripline. The tree has never been fertilized or treated with any other chemicals - in fact, until recently this was always a thriving, lush tree for these homeowners. Does anyone recognize this species and these symptons? I did read that some acacia species are "short-lived", but not sure exactly what this means and if this species is inlcued in this description. Any suggestions or input would be welcome. My friends are trying to decide whether to cut the tree down and start over, or to try and salvage the tree. Mike Hills mhills@seedsolutions.com From hrb85373@aol.com Thu Oct 19 15:41:19 2000 From: hrb85373@aol.com (hrb85373@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 08:41:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010191541.IAA12768@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I notice my message the other day on citrus orange tree was not completly written: I have wounds on the bark about 5 feet above the ground, some as large as 3 inches long, 2 inches wide, down to the white wood. Can see no teeth marks from a rodent. What would it be? Thanks! From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Thu Oct 19 22:03:19 2000 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Thu, 19 Oct 2000 15:03:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Failed Garden, More Clues Message-ID: Thanks for the response. I will provide a better description: My garden, I planted it around August 15th didn't do very well. It was my first attempt. I built two 4'x4' containers out of concrete block and painted the inside so the water wouldn't whick out. I bought some planting soil, a sort of sandy clay with wood chips and mixed it with 20% cow manure. It drains well and even after heavy rains I can still dig through it with my hands. I watered with drip, soaker hoses set up on a timer. Sometimes the surface would dry out but the soil was always damp. Damp enough to form a clod when squeezed. The garden gets sun until around 3PM when the neighbor's tree shades it. The plants, corn and snap beans were stunted. When I pulled them up, the roots on the snap beans were small and brown, "stubby" would be a good description. The corn didn't have a lot of roots either. I planted lettuce, but that didn't come up at all. I've got a lot of things that might have cause my problems: It was too hot when I planted, I over watered or under watered, the steer manure was too green, the wood chips ate up the nitrogen, and there are probably things I'm not thinking of. I'm not sure of where to start. From marketresource@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 20:18:42 2000 From: marketresource@uswest.net (marketresource@uswest.net) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 13:18:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010202018.NAA08484@Ag.Arizona.Edu> All of my fall vegetables are coming up and are doing better with the falling temps. the white flies, which I could not control are declining. The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Oct 20 22:24:26 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 18:24:26 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Failed Garden, More Clues Message-ID: <59.1ba7752.2722201a@aol.com> Jim, You didn't say where you live, but if you live in the low desert( elevation 1000 to 2000 feet ) You planted your garden at the wrong time of year. In Arizona low desert we have fall and winter vegetables and spring and summer vegetables each of which must be planted at the proper time of year in order for them to florish. The beans and corn should be planted between Feb 15 and Mar 15; the lettuce from Sept 1 to Mar 1. You did a lot of work to prepare a good planting bed. You were pretty much on target on the things that you thought could be wrong especially the green manure and the wood chips that were not composted. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on vegetables which is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:37:03 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:37:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabbage Loopers? References: <200010202018.NAA08484@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0C90F.B90A9B2A@uswest.net> When you are having problems, a good place to start is the Timely Tips section of our website. In the month of October, you'll see several insect pest references, one of which is probably your culprit: cabbage loopers http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm If you use the link to cabbage loopers that is on that page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/looper.htm you'll find the suggestion to use Bt, which is a biological control that is recommended for caterpillars in general. Linda Guy Master Gardener marketresource@uswest.net wrote: > All of my fall vegetables are coming up and are doing better with the falling temps. the white flies, which I could not control are declining. The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:45:51 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:45:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wax Myrtle References: <200010181622.JAA18262@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0CB1F.999917A8@uswest.net> I could not find a reference to 'wax' myrtle but if this is a shrub [myrtus] and not a groundcover [vinca] the Sunset Western Garden Book lists them both as growing in our zone 13 for Phoenix. Linda Guy Master Gardener gsboucher@home.com wrote: > Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:49:25 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:49:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocados References: <200010141235.FAA20018@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0CBF5.C0763463@uswest.net> The plant might grow here, particularly as a container plant, but I don't believe that it fruits in our climate. The Sunset Western Garden book did not refer to male and female plants. A good source of information would be the local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers, which is listed on our website in the garden clubs section. http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Linda Guy Master Gardener rconklin@trip.net wrote: > We have recently purchased land in South Texas. I remember as a child my mother taking an avocado seed puting it in water until it roots and planting it into a pot. It grew into a beautiful plant. I've rooted two and wanted to know if planted in the ground will they produce avocados and if, as other fruit trees, you need two. I'd appreciate any information you can give me. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 22:54:03 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 15:54:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde sucker References: <200010141734.KAA13598@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0CD0B.C93C71A@uswest.net> It is unlikely the mother tree is impacted, but without a more vibrant root zone, I wouldn't guess there's a lot of hope for the 'youngster'. Trees rely on the tiny feeder roots for water uptake, and it doesn't sound like you retrieved much if any of these. Continue the deep watering practice [to three feet every other week] and see if you can retrieve it. The drip should be located at the canopy drip line, and there should be more than one for a tree this size. Irrigation practices are well discussed in the relevant chapter of the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ By next March, when most desert natives start leafing out, you should be able to tell if you were able to save the tree. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener JDymndol@aol.com wrote: > 10/5 we had a landscaping company work with our front yard. They determined that one of the smaller foothill palo verdes could re re-located. When this smaller palo verde was dug up it turned out it was a "pup" or "sucker" with only one root to the "mother tree" It is about the size of a 36" box palo verde. It was replanted with a drip system. Itis not looking well. The branches are drying out although the trunk is still green. This started in less than a week. We are now told that it doesn't stand much of a chance but to wait it out ?? We were also told to really deep water it. Our question is... Have we also jeopardized the "mother" tree. What has been your experience in moving "pups?" Any special treatment you can reccommend ? We live in North Scottsdale area. Any suggestion will help as this is a beautiful tree. Thanks Judi > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:04:05 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:04:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit in Distress References: <200010142105.OAA04961@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0CF65.4B57334C@uswest.net> Since the grapefruit had the cool season to begin its acclimation process to a more sunny locale, I'm not sure this is the specific cause. However, the limbs and crotches of the grapefruit are susceptible to Rio Grande Gummosis whose symptoms are gumming with noticable bark separation but no lateral bark rotting from the point of origin. This is largely a symptom of old age and there is no treatment for the condition, just removal of the dried gum. My reference material says that the tree will rarely die, though it will look decidedly unhealthy. Your best course of action is to treat the tree with the best possible care. We have a number of citrus publications, some of which are online. Consult our list of home horticulture publications at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Good luck, Linda Guy Master Gardener hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net wrote: > I have a 22 year old grapefruit tree that is peeling it's bark and weeping. Until last November it was shaded by a pine tree. I suspect the sudden need to acclimate to direct sun this past summer has something to do with the distress. Several branches have withered and died this past summer. Is there anything I can do to stop the peeling, weeping and dying? I've already wrapped most of the branches in burlap. So far one side of the tree appears to be unaffected (the side that was most distant from the shading pine tree); it is bearing good fruit in abundance. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:06:57 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:06:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Decline References: <200010030600.XAA11431@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0D011.F2E85A88@uswest.net> I don't believe we have enough information to help you diagnose your situation, or that of your citrus trees. Watering is a very critical element, and is well discussed in our publication AZ 1151 which you can reference at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener adventure@inficad.com wrote: > Why didn't I get fruit this year on my trees? I have an orange, grapefruit, and tangelo tree. I fertilized according to schedule but all I got were green, medium sized oranges, no grapefruit, and tiny black, hard as a rock, tangelos. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:17:06 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:17:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asian Pear Decline References: <87996A2ECE8DD1118BAA00A0240BBB1801336FA2@AZMAIL> Message-ID: <39F0D272.82E3D850@uswest.net> You might consider reading up on your Asian pear in Sunset Western Garden Book. This is a deciduous tree, and it could be that this is the annual seasonal loss of leaves. However, with a blossom in the fall, perhaps it is getting its seasons confused from being moved indoors and out. I would like to direct you to the diagnostic section of our indoor plant guide at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Its pub AZ 1025 under house plants/greenhouse If you are interested in having it fruit, it is not a self-pollinating tree. They need pollination by a second variety of by a Bartlett european pear. Many deciduous fruits require a winter chilling time that is expressed in hours required, although I am not sure what the Asian pear needs. Linda Guy Master Gardener "Furst, Beverly" wrote: > Asian pear; fruiting. We have just moved it outside. Some of the leaves > are black edged and will eventually fall off. The rest looks healthy and it > has a blossom. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] > Sent: Monday, October 16, 2000 9:46 AM > To: bfurst@azheart.com > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > What type of pear? Ornamental or fruiting? > > bfurst@azheart.com wrote: > > > I have a 6" potted pear tree in my foyer. When can I put it outside and > why is it getting black edged leaves that fall off. It has new shoots and > looks healthy otherwise. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:23:36 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:23:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wallflower decline References: <200010051722.KAA05203@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0D3F7.D2835ADA@uswest.net> I am not familiar with this specific plant here in Phoenix, but the Sunset Western Garden Book does not list them as viable in our zone 13 climate. Since the Bowles Mauve is said to 'bloom itself to death' after a few short years, it may be that you cannot treat these plants as perennials in our locale. If you can bend a limb without snapping it, there may yet be life. If it breaks, it has probably succumbed. Linda Guy Master Gardener RAJ@uswest.net wrote: > Dietes and Bowle's Mauve Wallflower have been brown for several months. How do I tell if they are dead or just resting between seasons? They were newly planted in the spring and are on the drip system. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:27:29 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:27:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Recommendations References: <200010111558.IAA28088@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0D4E1.37D123D@uswest.net> You don't give sufficient information to supply a good answer. We'd need to know how large a space you have, the exposure, whether you want evergreen or deciduous, native or adapted, flowering, how much watering you are willing to provide, etc. We have a list of publications related to trees in the ornamentals section of our publications list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener currens123@aol.com wrote: > Trees without thorns that will do well in Buckeye. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:33:15 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:33:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Native Plants References: <200010111727.KAA19899@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0D63B.B9405426@uswest.net> I make it a point NOT to do so, since there is little to speak of in the wild and I'm not looking to generate more pruning material to haul to the local landfills. I don't know that this is entirely correct, but the training in home landscape design I took several years ago at the DBG provided similar information. Judy Mielke, author of Native Plants for SW Landscapes echoes the sentiment. "Native[s]... have evolved in soils with very little nitrogen content so it is not critical to provide fertilizer to the plants." Exception could be to speed growth of new, young plants, keeping in mind that more growth requires more of that other very important desert fertilizer, H20! Linda Guy Master Gardener dckelly@sedona.net wrote: > Should your fertilize native plants such as salvia greggii. If so, what kind of fertilizer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jrgarizona@yahoo.com Fri Oct 20 23:54:30 2000 From: jrgarizona@yahoo.com (jrgarizona@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:54:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010202354.QAA09136@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 ficus nitida planted about 4 feet from my house that is built on a slab founda- tion. I was told that they should be moved because they are too close to the house and will eventually crack the foundation with its roots. Is this true? The trees are 2 years old and healthy. They are about 15 ft. high now. Can they be successfully moved? From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:49:44 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:49:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Herbs, etc. References: <200010112343.QAA17841@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0DA18.46051672@uswest.net> Most perennial herbs do well if planted now [Oct-Nov]. The air is cooling, but the soil is still warm enough to encourage root development to set the plant in a better position to withstand its first summer in Phoenix. You can have success with early spring plantings, but the odds favor you in autumn. One perennial that is planted springtime is tarragon, which is dormant in winter here. Annuals that are planted in the cool season [meaning now] include cilantro, dill, cumin, borage, parsley [technically a biennial], chamomile, anise, . Summer annuals [planted spring] include basil, epazote, sesame, chia and amaranth. Basil is sold now, and if kept in a very protected area in full sun, can survive a mild winter in Phoenix. First frost will blacken all exposed leaves, however. Lavenders, and other mediterranean herbs, are notorious for hating to have their feet wet. Once established, they almost thrive on neglect. Could you have killed them with kindness? Or did you plant it too close to the heat of the summer, meaning it was unable to establish itself in time for the 'furnace?' The Arizona Herb Assn has a delightful pamphlet on herb gardening. Check them out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm There are several organic gardening and farming catalogs, such as Peaceful Valley and Gardens Alive, as well as Organic Gardening magazine; all have websites for you to consult. Linda Guy Master Gardner bobbsorg@email.msn.com wrote: > I am trying to find out when to plant herbs outside. I have some planted inside and want to transplant them. Also, can they be planted directly outside in full sun??? > > I had a lavendar plant that was planted for months -- went through more than half of the summer and then died. What did I do wrong? Actually, what should I have done to keep it alive. > > Any tips on herbs would be helfpul. > > Is there a natural way to get rid of insects on plants? > > Are there are grants available re: natural insect control -- both on plants and in homes -- who would I need to contact on this?? > > Thank you in advance for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Oct 20 23:55:03 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 16:55:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Meyers Lemon Leaf Drop References: <200010121618.JAA28638@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F0DB57.C3C02E93@uswest.net> Your problem doesn't sound that severe, but I would like to direct you to our discussion on citrus leaf drop and possible causes at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm I hope this is helpful to you. By the way, did you know that Meyers is now illegal [and therefore no longer available] in Arizona because it is a carrier of citrus tristeza virus? It is a devastating disease of other citrus trees. Linda Guy Master Gardener kathygeb@home.com wrote: > Meyer's lemon tree is loosing leaves on same branch. Lost seven leaves in one night. Leaves are still green, no apparent reason. Could you please tell me what the problem could be? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Mama_Cupani@juno.com Sat Oct 21 04:08:44 2000 From: Mama_Cupani@juno.com (Mama_Cupani@juno.com) Date: Fri, 20 Oct 2000 21:08:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010210408.VAA25681@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a plant growing in my vegetable garden that I am hoping you can help me identify. I really like it and would like to transplant it, but I need an idea of how big it's going to get. I'm pretty sure it's not a vegetable! The plant is about 2 years old now, and about 2 feet tall. Rather sprawling with small thorns and a woody base. It has deep, solid green, serrated, heart-shaped leaves. It kind of reminds me of a bouganvilla. It has never bloomed. I have taken a couple of pictures that I could send if you would supply me an e-mail address (to send attachments). I would really appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you, Shirley Cupani From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <005901c03b20$5edb5a80$5125480c@netzone.com> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Do Wax Myrtle bushes do well/grow in Phoenix? ======================== Wax myrtle (Myrica cerifera) is cold hardy in USDA Zones 8-11 and it should do okay in Phoenix (Zone 9). Following info is from Bruce Miller Nursery at http://brucemillerfarm.com Myrica cerifera Common Name : wax myrtle Hardiness Zone(s) Preferred: 8, 9, 10, 11 Plant Origin : Native to Texas Plant Group(s): Tree, Shrub Planting Use(s) Recommended: Screen, Patio Tree, Naturalizing, Hedge, Border, Specimen Plant Light Exposure(s) Preferred: Full Sun, Part Sun/shade Soil Type(s) Preferred: Sandy, Well-Drained, Wet, Alkaline, Drought/Dry, Clay, Tolerates Acid Salt Tolerance: High Height : 15 - 25 Feet Spread : 10 - 15 Feet Shape(s): Vase, Rounded Growth Rate(s): Fast Flower Color(s): Green Flower Characteristics: Insignificant flowers, Spring flowers Fruit Color(s): Blue Fruit Characteristics: Insignificant fruit Leaf Characteristics: Evergreen Leaf Texture: Fine Leaf Color(s): Green Outstanding Fall Color: Bark/Limb Characteristics: Showy bark, Has no thorns, Resists breakage Winter Interest : No From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <00bc01c03b22$dbd881a0$5125480c@netzone.com> Try Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) a bacteria that works as a stomach poisoning on most worms. Available trade names are Dipel, Thuricide, etc. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > ...The problem is little teeny(about 1/8") green and grey,inchworms. They are eating away in great numbers on all my baby veggies. I have been trying hand control, but they are getting the better of me. Do you have any suggestions? From nan85048@aol.com Sat Oct 21 18:02:35 2000 From: nan85048@aol.com (nan85048@aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 11:02:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010211802.LAA27313@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm thinking of planting a climbing vine in a pot on my east facing patio. I want to put a trellis inside the pot with the plant. Any suggestions on what plant I should look at. I'd like to try something rather hardy and hard to kill. It can grow up to 8 feet tall b/4 I need to trim it. Thanks lots for any help I can get! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Oct 22 00:04:59 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 20:04:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ficus nitida, moving Message-ID: Yes the Ficus nitida can cause problems with causing concrete to heave. The source of your info was accurate in that the trees should be moved. The months of Nov, Dec, or Jan would be the best time to move them. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From vballprincess4@hotmail.com Sun Oct 22 00:09:43 2000 From: vballprincess4@hotmail.com (vballprincess4@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 21 Oct 2000 17:09:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010220009.RAA29073@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I get my poinsettas to rebloom?? From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <001201c03be3$7d14bd20$3922480c@netzone.com> It's usually not worth the trouble but if the plant is still healthy it might work out if you begin early enough. Starting October 1 (about 3 weeks ago), the plants must be kept in complete darkness for 14 continuous hours each night. Place the plant in a totally dark room, or cover with a large box that will not let in any light.. During October, November and early December, poinsettias require about 6 hours of bright sunlight daily with night temperatures from 60 to 70 ° F. Water and fertilize normally. Follow this procedure for 8 to 10 weeks. ----- Original Message ----- From: > How do I get my poinsettas to rebloom?? From letourneau12@juno.com Sun Oct 22 15:15:40 2000 From: letourneau12@juno.com (letourneau12@juno.com) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 08:15:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010221515.IAA11687@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am looking for a place to purchase a Anaheim Chili Pepper plant to give to my best friend for her birthday in November. Please let me know if you know of such a place and how I could contat them. From Bubblylady@aol.com Sun Oct 22 16:48:44 2000 From: Bubblylady@aol.com (Bubblylady@aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 09:48:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010221648.JAA25632@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! It's raining and I'm catching lots of rain in buckets. How long can I let the water sit before I have to use it? If I save it inside will it begin to smell at all? Thanks! Robin From umiller@azdps.com Sun Oct 22 17:10:58 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 10:10:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is this Plant? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, folks - I saw a small (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near Borders Bookstore at Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird of Paradise, but I don't think that that's what it is. The yellow flowers were clustered like the Bird of Paradise, but the leaves were much, much fuller and rounder - not the little oval-shaped leaves of Bird of Paradise. I'm almost sure that it's not Yellow Bells because I'm familiar with that plant. The yellow flowers came out of a branch with lots of flowers on it -- just like the Bird of Paradise, unlike Yellow Bells where the flowers each come off their own stems. This was a very pretty little shrub because of the dense green. My husband said that the leaves looked like shamrock leaves, though I had to stretch my imagination a little to see them that way. Does anybody know what it could be? I would like to get one of these shrubs if I can find out what it is. Thanks for any help you can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, folks - I saw a = small=20 (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near Borders Bookstore at=20 Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird of Paradise, = but I=20 don't think that that's what it is.  The yellow flowers were = clustered like=20 the Bird of Paradise, but the leaves were much, much fuller and = rounder -=20 not the little oval-shaped leaves of Bird of Paradise. =20
 
I'm almost sure = that it's=20 not Yellow Bells because I'm familiar with that plant.  The = yellow=20 flowers came out of a branch with lots of flowers on it -- just like=20 the Bird of Paradise, unlike Yellow Bells where the flowers = each come=20 off their own stems.  
 
This was a very = pretty little=20 shrub because of the dense green.  My husband said that the leaves = looked=20 like shamrock leaves, though I had to stretch my imagination a = little to=20 see them that way.
 
Does anybody know = what it could=20 be?  I would like to get one of these shrubs if I can find out what = it=20 is.
 
Thanks for any help = you can=20 give me.
    
Ursula = Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C03C10.5F687B40-- From Mike and Mad Pearce" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a queen palm approximately 20 years old. The fronds were very = dry and floppy over the summer so I called a reputable tree service to = diagnose the problem. They said all it needed was a deep root feeding. = That was done three weeks ago. We had a good rain since then (in fact = it's raining as I write this). However, the few remaining fronds have = now dropped off. Does that mean the tree is dead or is there still a = chance new growth will emerge? ------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a queen palm approximately 20 = years=20 old.  The fronds were very dry and floppy over the summer so I = called=20 a reputable tree service to diagnose the problem.  They said all it = needed=20 was a deep root feeding.  That was done three weeks ago.  We = had a=20 good rain since then (in fact it's raining as I write this).  = However, the=20 few remaining fronds have now dropped off.  Does that = mean the=20 tree is dead or is there still a chance new growth will=20 emerge?
------=_NextPart_000_0216_01C03C18.56603080-- From Olin Miller" Message-ID: <000b01c03c57$4e8479e0$ca27480c@netzone.com> It's "Mexican Bird of Paradise" (Caesalpinia mexicana) which has yellow blossoms. The "Red Bird of Paradise" is C. pulcherrima and is also sometimes called Mexican Bird. C. mexicana is pretty common in the newer landscapes in North Phoenix. Doesn't lose all of its leaves in winter like the red one and also stays in bloom later in fall and earlier in spring. Good descriptions in Sunset, p. 194. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:10 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] What is this Plant? > Hi, folks - I saw a small (about 3 feet tall and wide) very green shrub near > Borders Bookstore at Arrowhead with yellow flowers that looked like a Bird > of Paradise, but I don't think that that's what it is. ... > >... > Does anybody know what it could be? ... From hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net Sun Oct 22 19:28:52 2000 From: hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net (hankbeaulieu@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 12:28:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010221928.MAA23557@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My grapefruit tree is 22 years old. I see where the following could apply to my tree since it is gumming up on approximately one-third of the branches. "Gumming up the trunk or on major branches of grapefruit • Rio Grande gummosis • Not a disease, simply a symptom of old age on grapefruit; no treatment needed" However, in addition on the affected branches, the bark peels, the leaves turn yellow, the fruit withers and the branch eventually dies. The unaffected branches are healthy and loaded with good fruit. Is it just old age or some disease? From alague628@aol.com Sun Oct 22 23:09:45 2000 From: alague628@aol.com (alague628@aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 16:09:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010222309.QAA04461@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live in Prescott. We have several rose bushes and wonder when/if we should cut them back for winter? In our previous life in Los Angeles we would cut them back around Dec/Jan but don't know what to do here since it freezes and snows... Is it too late to plant roses as we just bought one that is in a five gallon tub and would like to plant it. Also what about transplanting several to a more sunny location. Should we wait till spring or do it now? Re: irises. We have several that didn't bloom last year but otherwise look very healthy. My sister tells me that it may be because they are burried too deep. Can we just lift some of the soil off the top? Can we do that now or should we wait until spring? Thanks so much for all your help. Anita From silverstate@worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 23 03:24:43 2000 From: silverstate@worldnet.att.net (silverstate@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 22 Oct 2000 20:24:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010230324.UAA24846@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Phoenix AZ, what kind of plants are harmful to dogs? From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 23 14:33:44 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:33:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus Nitida References: <200010202354.QAA09136@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39F44C48.D308BBA7@uswest.net> I'm in the midst of advanced tree training and during Saturday's tour of the ASU arboretum, I posed your question to Terry Mikel, one of the county's ag agents. Upheaval of concrete slabs [patios, sidewalks] are more likely than foundation problems. He believes that when faced with the size of a block footing of 18 to 24" that is characteristic for a home structure, the root is going to turn and go off in a direction that is likely to be a source of H20 and other nutrients. However, with most trees and this one in particular, you WILL start to have troubles with the girth of the trunk and canopy slamming into the facade of the structure. Hence a move at this time is quite adviseable. Good luck. If you want a list of arborists to consult on the the job check out http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Linda Guy Master Gardener jrgarizona@yahoo.com wrote: > I have 2 ficus nitida planted about 4 feet > from my house that is built on a slab founda- > tion. I was told that they should be moved > because they are too close to the house and > will eventually crack the foundation with its > roots. Is this true? The trees are 2 years > old and healthy. They are about 15 ft. high > now. Can they be successfully moved? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Mon Oct 23 14:38:04 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 07:38:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scalped Clippings as Mulch References: <000e01c0378b$71913f20$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> Message-ID: <39F44D4C.6CA0D152@uswest.net> --------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Indeed, most golf courses follow this practice, according to Maricopa County ag agent Terry Mikel. It is as much to hide the seed from the birds as it is to add organic matter. While touring the ASU Arboretum this Saturday, Terry pointed out the labor-intensive practice of taping or roping off areas recently reseeded. He suggested that the best way to keep people from walking on a freshly seeded lawn is to use MANURE as the mulch, turning two steps into one! Linda Guy Master Gardener Douglas Anderson wrote: > Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my > yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching? --------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Indeed, most golf courses follow this practice, according to Maricopa County ag agent Terry Mikel. It is as much to hide the seed from the birds as it is to add organic matter.

While touring the ASU Arboretum this Saturday, Terry pointed out the labor-intensive practice of taping or roping off areas recently reseeded. He suggested that the best way to keep people from walking on a freshly seeded lawn is to use MANURE as the mulch, turning two steps into one!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Douglas Anderson wrote:

Can the grass clippings that I removed by scalping and de-thatching my yard be re-apply over rye seed as a mulching?
--------------45877AB3EC19BAF042969DF9-- From paynefarmrd@hotmail.com Tue Oct 24 00:02:40 2000 From: paynefarmrd@hotmail.com (paynefarmrd@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 17:02:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200010240002.RAA07910@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We farm and jimson weed is taking over.What to do. What type of soil does it thrive in, we see it in the manure pile mostly. Can we add a mineral which will inhibit its growth? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Oct 24 00:42:25 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Oct 2000 20:42:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Rose questions from Prescott Message-ID: <11.ab4ea83.272634f1@aol.com> Anita, Our timing for pruning and planting of roses here in the Phoenix area is earlier than what you would do it in Prescott. I could guess and com