From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 20:59:51 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:51 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:07:22 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:07:22 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:08:32 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:10:26 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:10:26 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:29:58 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:29:58 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Damaged Olive Tree Mark, It sounds like you do not have any choice but to do a flush cut to remove the fallen limb. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:30:04 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] When to plant Chilean Mesquite Jim, If some one has not answered your question , here goes. Mesquites can be planted nearly any time of year, however Oct. and Nov. would be my choice for planting them. The problem with the preformed concrete rings is that they are too small. You should be watering the entire root zone of your tree, and in a couple of years the roots will be way out beyond the 3 foot rings. Why not make an earth berm at about 8 or 10 feet diameter, then the whole root zone will be watered, at least for a few years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Sep 21 23:52:00 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:52:00 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Finest Horticultural Education Experience in the West Attention all you Arid Gardener subscribers! You are cordially invited to attend the 2000 Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference. The conference will be held October 14-16 at the Mesa Conference Center, Mesa AZ. This non-profit conference is being presented by the Master Gardeners from the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. It is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardening Conference and is the only conference of its kind in the Southwest to share time and research-based information on gardening in the low deserts of the arid Southwest with homeowners, educators, rose lovers, arborists, horticultural professionals and Master Gardener volunteers from the 13-state Western region. This is a GREAT place to get answers to your gardening questions. Learn new techniques, solutions to gardening problems and the best plants for your landscape situation. Are you interested in starting a butterfly garden? A hummingbird garden? Two of the many talks to be given are on Butterflies and Hummingbirds by experts in these fields. Are you new to the state? What better place to learn all the ins and outs of gardening in the low desert - a totally different experience if you are from the midwest or the east. Beside the variety of plant topics which will be most useful to you, the new Arizona resident, you will also find talks on such topics as the various Life Zones of Arizona, given by Terry Mikel. Or you might enjoy our talk entitled, "From Rim to Rim: Ethnobotany of the Grand Canyon", a talk and slide presentation given by Greg Woodall, archaeologist, Colorado River guide, and botanist for Grand Canyon National Park. We have something from everyone. And our vendor line-up alone will have you feeling like you are in shopping heaven, just in time for the holidays! Specialized hands-on workshop sessions will be held on Saturday, October 14th. These include, "Confident Tree and Shrub Pruning", "Making Gourd Birdhouses", "Creating a Memory Tile from Found Objects", "How to Build Your Own Fountain", "How to Make Beautiful Flower Arrangements Using Roses" at the ARS-sanctioned Rose Arrangement workshop and a Container Gardening Workshop. The two-day conference rate for Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16, including a Sunset Welcome Reception on Saturday, October 14 at the Desert Botanic Garden, featuring a slide show tour of gardens around the country by Mr. Jim Flint, Youth Garden Grants Director for the National Gardening Association, all sessions for the two days, breakfast and lunch for both days and a Sunday Western Round-Up Dinner is $175. Conference price without the dinner is $155. Or you can choose to attend for one day only and the price is $90. The full conference price for Master Gardeners is $150. To view complete information about this incredible educational experience, including session descriptions, speakers, workshops and tours, please visit our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Information on registration is on the web site. We hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 22 23:08:59 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:08:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Roses are a member of the same family as pyracantha which is quite susceptable to fire blight, however I've never seen Fireblight on roses in the low desert. The tell tale symptom of fireblight is that the canes will look as if they were burned with a blow torch. Rust and blackspot are very seldom seen on roses in tthe low desert. The only fungus that we have to contend with is powdery mildew. For this we are thankful. The symptoms that you describe is fairly common in the low desert, but to my knowledge has not been named. I have lost several roses this summer to those same symptoms. Recently I sent a rose dying with those symptoms to the Univ. of Arizona pathology lab in Tuscon. They were unable to find a pathogen that was causing the problem. Yesterday at a rose society meeting I talked with four other Consulting Rosarians about the problem that we all encounter, one that you described, and we all agreed that the problem is caused by high temperatures, wind and sun burn and inadequate irrigation. Even with adequate irrigation there may be times when the rose is not able to take up enough water to satisfy its need. Most of the rosarians that are growing roses for show are doing some things to help the rose handle our hot summers such as; Covering their roses with shade screen. Wash down or mist their roses often, daily if possible. Cover the rose bed with a 3 or 4 inch mulch. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored on summer rose care, I hope it will be helpful. If you live in the east valley I'd like to extend an invitation to attend the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting which will be held at Mesa Community College, student center, Kiva room at 7.00 pm on Oct. 12. If you can attend you will pass by MCC's rose garden with over 3000 Roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bstttharker@aol.com Sat Sep 23 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: bstttharker@aol.com bstttharker@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. Thanks for any help you can give. From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 01:16:54 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:16:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Landscape Welcome to Gilbert! I also live in Gilbert. I'd like to direct you to our publications page which you can reach by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Many of our publications may be viewed on line. If you go the section called "Ornamentals" you will find some of these on-line files which would most likely be helpful to you. One is entitled "Plants for Poolside Landscape" which would be helpful to you since you mentioned you would like to include a pool/spa in your new landscape. Under the heading "Flowers" you will find on-line a flower and bedding guide as well as a plant table. Please browse around. Although not all of the publications are on-line, others are available form the Maricopa County Cooperative Extenstion office. Many of the library branches also have a binder with these publications in them and you can make a copy. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. Another good source of information is our on-line version of the Master Gardener manual which you can access at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ You will find information on planting, irrigation, fertilization, etc. If you haven't visited our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Please take your time and browse around. There are many good sources of information listed here including a "Recommended Reading" section listing excellent books. Our Events section lists upcoming classes that may be helpful. If you haven't heard about the Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference which the Maricopa County Master Gardeners are hosting in October, you may want to take a look. There will be speakers talking about many topics that are excellent for homeowners thinking about installing new landscapes. You can view information about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Good Luck! I hope I didn't overload you. Feel free to contact us any time for further information. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstttharker@aol.com wrote: > We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. > We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. > We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. > Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. > Thanks for any help you can give. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:53:30 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:53:30 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in wat ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:54:15 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. RP Wells From greatmfs@aol.com Sat Sep 23 15:36:37 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:36:37 -0700 (MST) From: greatmfs@aol.com greatmfs@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You mike From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 19:45:52 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:45:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Science Alive Conference - Hydroponics When I attanded the SW Horticultural Trade Show recently, I found a flier on an annual educational conference sponsored by UA and others in Tucson from January 2-6, 2001. This annual gathering of educators, students and community members is focusing this year on the field of hydroponics. Check out additional information at http://ag.arizona.edu/science_alive/ Linda From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 22:17:46 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth -or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly appreciated and we thank you in advance. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 22:45:13 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:45:13 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have not grown grapes myself. I do have a publication written by Michael Kilby, Extension Specialist, Fruit and Nut Crops. For training grapes, he states: "FIRST YEAR: The main objective is to develop a root system, therefore, no pruning is necessary. Growers should not attempt to train vines as reserves in the roots are not great enough to support both vine and root development. During the dormant season the vine is cut back to the stongest best positioned one or two shoots." So, my understanding would be to leave the current growth and wait to prune in January. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dkrob6@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) > >We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our >ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. >Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before >it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know >if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in >length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth >-or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly >appreciated and we thank you in advance. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:07:04 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:07:04 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have had some success with loosening the existing soil, adding 4-6 inches of organic material (usually compost), and ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur per label directions. Mix all together very well, rake to smooth and remove clumps and rocks, and water. (Correct irrigation is critical here in the desert). If you want an organic garden, then substitute organic products for the ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur. The organic material can be anything that is available locally and is inexpensive, just make sure it is well composted. Others are growing in pure compost. You will probably get many different ideas! My two cents.... Linda Drew >From: orpha@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) > >If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would >it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that >is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. > >RP Wells _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 23 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:28:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnias - When to Spread Seeds This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now? One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. Thanks for any information anybody can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Is it OK = to spread zinnia seeds now?=A0 One packet = of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet = says that they should be spread in May. =A0=A0

 

Thanks = for any information anybody can give me.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 23:45:43 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:45:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia - planting time --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula! According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November. You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months. The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds > says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; > another packet says that they should be spread in May. > > Thanks for any information anybody can give me. > > Ursula Miller > --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Ursula!
According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November.  You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months.  The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Ursula Miller wrote:

Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. 

Thanks for any information anybody can give me. 

Ursula Miller

--------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Mon Sep 25 16:55:40 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:55:40 -0700 (PDT) From: BOB RAMSEY ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees I have read your info regarding irrigation of citrus but it seems no matter how long I leave the water on, I cannot probe more than 20 in. 2hrs after completing irrigation. I have a large well out to the edge of the cannopy and use bubblers. I estimate that I apply about 3 gallons a minute and leave the bubblers on for 1 1/2 hrs. It takes up to 8 hrs for the well to drain dry. Am I just the victim of heavy clay soil and shoulg I do any thing about it? The trees look OK although the lemon tree is still recovering from a leaf drop last season. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Sep 25 17:22:27 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:22:27 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Hello, I have a question. My Jacaranda tree blooms twice per year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. Is this common? I've never noticed this happening on other Jacaranda trees in the neighborhood. This year the fall bloom was even showier than the spring bloom. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) From Mythreesunz@aol.com Mon Sep 25 17:54:51 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:54:51 -0700 (MST) From: Mythreesunz@aol.com Mythreesunz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chinese Evergreen Elm trees the end of April 2000; in August a monsoon wind blew one of them partially over (we were out of town but a neighbor re-staked it. Two weeks later it dropped all of its leaves (our other tree didn't) and now it is growing new leaves. Did the stress of partially blowing over cause this? Also I need to know how & when to prune these trees, watering guidelines for the winter and fertilizing. We plant a winter lawn where these trees are and I am wondering how the watering and fertilizing of our winter lawn will affect these trees. Thank you for your response. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Mon Sep 25 18:44:41 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:41 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of corn. But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. Thanks in advance, - Jim From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 25 21:21:28 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:21:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Payson Area Garden Tour ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pauline Rodriguez" > > The High Country Garden Club will have a fall garden tour, September 30, from > 8:00 to 4:00, on Saturday, and Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 . There will be 6 > gardens, with refreshments and bath room accessibility, at the one in East > Verde Estates. Two have zeriscape landscaping, very well done, one > at Loins Spring road, that is 2 1/2 acres, that is a gardeners dream. Bob > Muggli has 20 different variety of grapes, 50 rose bushes, has built his > work shop of straw bales, many unique verities of cross bred fruit trees, > for instance, Aprim, which is 75% apricot and 25% plum. Many berries, a > Japanese garden in the making. > > The one that will take time to tour , is Joanne Chilcoat, on Flowing Springs > Road. Joanne has 5 Acres, with roses, pond, boulders, exotic pheasants, > burro, goats, more than I can describe. In fact, they are doing a shoot > tomorrow, for the COUNTRY GARDENER magazine, to be featured in an issue, > next year. She is one of five in the US, to be selected for this honor. . > Please direct any questions to Pauline at hawkeye@goodnet.com . Olin From papa-nannie@rkis.com Mon Sep 25 22:41:10 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:41:10 -0700 (MST) From: papa-nannie@rkis.com papa-nannie@rkis.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will you please give me instructions for trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. also will a Money plant grow here? My sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told me to soak them before planting, but I can find no other info on them. thank you for your help, Nena Shelton From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 20:59:51 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:51 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:07:22 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:07:22 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:08:32 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:10:26 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:10:26 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:29:58 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:29:58 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Damaged Olive Tree Mark, It sounds like you do not have any choice but to do a flush cut to remove the fallen limb. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:30:04 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] When to plant Chilean Mesquite Jim, If some one has not answered your question , here goes. Mesquites can be planted nearly any time of year, however Oct. and Nov. would be my choice for planting them. The problem with the preformed concrete rings is that they are too small. You should be watering the entire root zone of your tree, and in a couple of years the roots will be way out beyond the 3 foot rings. Why not make an earth berm at about 8 or 10 feet diameter, then the whole root zone will be watered, at least for a few years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Sep 21 23:52:00 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:52:00 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Finest Horticultural Education Experience in the West Attention all you Arid Gardener subscribers! You are cordially invited to attend the 2000 Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference. The conference will be held October 14-16 at the Mesa Conference Center, Mesa AZ. This non-profit conference is being presented by the Master Gardeners from the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. It is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardening Conference and is the only conference of its kind in the Southwest to share time and research-based information on gardening in the low deserts of the arid Southwest with homeowners, educators, rose lovers, arborists, horticultural professionals and Master Gardener volunteers from the 13-state Western region. This is a GREAT place to get answers to your gardening questions. Learn new techniques, solutions to gardening problems and the best plants for your landscape situation. Are you interested in starting a butterfly garden? A hummingbird garden? Two of the many talks to be given are on Butterflies and Hummingbirds by experts in these fields. Are you new to the state? What better place to learn all the ins and outs of gardening in the low desert - a totally different experience if you are from the midwest or the east. Beside the variety of plant topics which will be most useful to you, the new Arizona resident, you will also find talks on such topics as the various Life Zones of Arizona, given by Terry Mikel. Or you might enjoy our talk entitled, "From Rim to Rim: Ethnobotany of the Grand Canyon", a talk and slide presentation given by Greg Woodall, archaeologist, Colorado River guide, and botanist for Grand Canyon National Park. We have something from everyone. And our vendor line-up alone will have you feeling like you are in shopping heaven, just in time for the holidays! Specialized hands-on workshop sessions will be held on Saturday, October 14th. These include, "Confident Tree and Shrub Pruning", "Making Gourd Birdhouses", "Creating a Memory Tile from Found Objects", "How to Build Your Own Fountain", "How to Make Beautiful Flower Arrangements Using Roses" at the ARS-sanctioned Rose Arrangement workshop and a Container Gardening Workshop. The two-day conference rate for Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16, including a Sunset Welcome Reception on Saturday, October 14 at the Desert Botanic Garden, featuring a slide show tour of gardens around the country by Mr. Jim Flint, Youth Garden Grants Director for the National Gardening Association, all sessions for the two days, breakfast and lunch for both days and a Sunday Western Round-Up Dinner is $175. Conference price without the dinner is $155. Or you can choose to attend for one day only and the price is $90. The full conference price for Master Gardeners is $150. To view complete information about this incredible educational experience, including session descriptions, speakers, workshops and tours, please visit our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Information on registration is on the web site. We hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 22 23:08:59 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:08:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Roses are a member of the same family as pyracantha which is quite susceptable to fire blight, however I've never seen Fireblight on roses in the low desert. The tell tale symptom of fireblight is that the canes will look as if they were burned with a blow torch. Rust and blackspot are very seldom seen on roses in tthe low desert. The only fungus that we have to contend with is powdery mildew. For this we are thankful. The symptoms that you describe is fairly common in the low desert, but to my knowledge has not been named. I have lost several roses this summer to those same symptoms. Recently I sent a rose dying with those symptoms to the Univ. of Arizona pathology lab in Tuscon. They were unable to find a pathogen that was causing the problem. Yesterday at a rose society meeting I talked with four other Consulting Rosarians about the problem that we all encounter, one that you described, and we all agreed that the problem is caused by high temperatures, wind and sun burn and inadequate irrigation. Even with adequate irrigation there may be times when the rose is not able to take up enough water to satisfy its need. Most of the rosarians that are growing roses for show are doing some things to help the rose handle our hot summers such as; Covering their roses with shade screen. Wash down or mist their roses often, daily if possible. Cover the rose bed with a 3 or 4 inch mulch. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored on summer rose care, I hope it will be helpful. If you live in the east valley I'd like to extend an invitation to attend the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting which will be held at Mesa Community College, student center, Kiva room at 7.00 pm on Oct. 12. If you can attend you will pass by MCC's rose garden with over 3000 Roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bstttharker@aol.com Sat Sep 23 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: bstttharker@aol.com bstttharker@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. Thanks for any help you can give. From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 01:16:54 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:16:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Landscape Welcome to Gilbert! I also live in Gilbert. I'd like to direct you to our publications page which you can reach by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Many of our publications may be viewed on line. If you go the section called "Ornamentals" you will find some of these on-line files which would most likely be helpful to you. One is entitled "Plants for Poolside Landscape" which would be helpful to you since you mentioned you would like to include a pool/spa in your new landscape. Under the heading "Flowers" you will find on-line a flower and bedding guide as well as a plant table. Please browse around. Although not all of the publications are on-line, others are available form the Maricopa County Cooperative Extenstion office. Many of the library branches also have a binder with these publications in them and you can make a copy. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. Another good source of information is our on-line version of the Master Gardener manual which you can access at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ You will find information on planting, irrigation, fertilization, etc. If you haven't visited our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Please take your time and browse around. There are many good sources of information listed here including a "Recommended Reading" section listing excellent books. Our Events section lists upcoming classes that may be helpful. If you haven't heard about the Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference which the Maricopa County Master Gardeners are hosting in October, you may want to take a look. There will be speakers talking about many topics that are excellent for homeowners thinking about installing new landscapes. You can view information about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Good Luck! I hope I didn't overload you. Feel free to contact us any time for further information. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstttharker@aol.com wrote: > We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. > We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. > We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. > Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. > Thanks for any help you can give. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:53:30 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:53:30 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in wat ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:54:15 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. RP Wells From greatmfs@aol.com Sat Sep 23 15:36:37 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:36:37 -0700 (MST) From: greatmfs@aol.com greatmfs@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You mike From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 19:45:52 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:45:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Science Alive Conference - Hydroponics When I attanded the SW Horticultural Trade Show recently, I found a flier on an annual educational conference sponsored by UA and others in Tucson from January 2-6, 2001. This annual gathering of educators, students and community members is focusing this year on the field of hydroponics. Check out additional information at http://ag.arizona.edu/science_alive/ Linda From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 22:17:46 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth -or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly appreciated and we thank you in advance. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 22:45:13 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:45:13 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have not grown grapes myself. I do have a publication written by Michael Kilby, Extension Specialist, Fruit and Nut Crops. For training grapes, he states: "FIRST YEAR: The main objective is to develop a root system, therefore, no pruning is necessary. Growers should not attempt to train vines as reserves in the roots are not great enough to support both vine and root development. During the dormant season the vine is cut back to the stongest best positioned one or two shoots." So, my understanding would be to leave the current growth and wait to prune in January. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dkrob6@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) > >We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our >ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. >Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before >it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know >if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in >length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth >-or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly >appreciated and we thank you in advance. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:07:04 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:07:04 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have had some success with loosening the existing soil, adding 4-6 inches of organic material (usually compost), and ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur per label directions. Mix all together very well, rake to smooth and remove clumps and rocks, and water. (Correct irrigation is critical here in the desert). If you want an organic garden, then substitute organic products for the ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur. The organic material can be anything that is available locally and is inexpensive, just make sure it is well composted. Others are growing in pure compost. You will probably get many different ideas! My two cents.... Linda Drew >From: orpha@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) > >If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would >it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that >is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. > >RP Wells _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 23 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:28:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnias - When to Spread Seeds This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now? One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. Thanks for any information anybody can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Is it OK = to spread zinnia seeds now?=A0 One packet = of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet = says that they should be spread in May. =A0=A0

 

Thanks = for any information anybody can give me.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 23:45:43 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:45:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia - planting time --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula! According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November. You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months. The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds > says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; > another packet says that they should be spread in May. > > Thanks for any information anybody can give me. > > Ursula Miller > --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Ursula!
According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November.  You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months.  The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Ursula Miller wrote:

Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. 

Thanks for any information anybody can give me. 

Ursula Miller

--------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Mon Sep 25 16:55:40 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:55:40 -0700 (PDT) From: BOB RAMSEY ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees I have read your info regarding irrigation of citrus but it seems no matter how long I leave the water on, I cannot probe more than 20 in. 2hrs after completing irrigation. I have a large well out to the edge of the cannopy and use bubblers. I estimate that I apply about 3 gallons a minute and leave the bubblers on for 1 1/2 hrs. It takes up to 8 hrs for the well to drain dry. Am I just the victim of heavy clay soil and shoulg I do any thing about it? The trees look OK although the lemon tree is still recovering from a leaf drop last season. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Sep 25 17:22:27 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:22:27 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Hello, I have a question. My Jacaranda tree blooms twice per year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. Is this common? I've never noticed this happening on other Jacaranda trees in the neighborhood. This year the fall bloom was even showier than the spring bloom. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) From Mythreesunz@aol.com Mon Sep 25 17:54:51 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:54:51 -0700 (MST) From: Mythreesunz@aol.com Mythreesunz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chinese Evergreen Elm trees the end of April 2000; in August a monsoon wind blew one of them partially over (we were out of town but a neighbor re-staked it. Two weeks later it dropped all of its leaves (our other tree didn't) and now it is growing new leaves. Did the stress of partially blowing over cause this? Also I need to know how & when to prune these trees, watering guidelines for the winter and fertilizing. We plant a winter lawn where these trees are and I am wondering how the watering and fertilizing of our winter lawn will affect these trees. Thank you for your response. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Mon Sep 25 18:44:41 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:41 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of corn. But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. Thanks in advance, - Jim From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 25 21:21:28 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:21:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Payson Area Garden Tour ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pauline Rodriguez" > > The High Country Garden Club will have a fall garden tour, September 30, from > 8:00 to 4:00, on Saturday, and Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 . There will be 6 > gardens, with refreshments and bath room accessibility, at the one in East > Verde Estates. Two have zeriscape landscaping, very well done, one > at Loins Spring road, that is 2 1/2 acres, that is a gardeners dream. Bob > Muggli has 20 different variety of grapes, 50 rose bushes, has built his > work shop of straw bales, many unique verities of cross bred fruit trees, > for instance, Aprim, which is 75% apricot and 25% plum. Many berries, a > Japanese garden in the making. > > The one that will take time to tour , is Joanne Chilcoat, on Flowing Springs > Road. Joanne has 5 Acres, with roses, pond, boulders, exotic pheasants, > burro, goats, more than I can describe. In fact, they are doing a shoot > tomorrow, for the COUNTRY GARDENER magazine, to be featured in an issue, > next year. She is one of five in the US, to be selected for this honor. . > Please direct any questions to Pauline at hawkeye@goodnet.com . Olin From papa-nannie@rkis.com Mon Sep 25 22:41:10 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:41:10 -0700 (MST) From: papa-nannie@rkis.com papa-nannie@rkis.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will you please give me instructions for trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. also will a Money plant grow here? My sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told me to soak them before planting, but I can find no other info on them. thank you for your help, Nena Shelton From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:06 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:06 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees Bob, Is it possible that you have caliche at the level that the water won't penetrate ? If the property where your house is located was once farm land there could be a layer of hardpan at about the depth where the water is not penetrating caused by the irrigation water flushing the salts and chemicals below the root zone of their crops. The application of gypsum and or soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and allow better water penetration. This may take some time before you see a difference. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:03 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm care The stress caused by your tree blowing over probably caused the leaf drop. Do not prune your newly planted trees for two years except for dead or broken branches, it is best to leave as much foliage on the tree as possible to allow the tree to grow more rapidly and to increase the girth of the tree so that it can stand alone. The over seeding and fertilizing will not affect the tree adversely provided you deep water the tree periodically, in fact the tree should be deep watered year round, biweekly in the summer and monthly in the winter. If you just planted the bermuda grass seed or sod this year, Univ. of Arizona recommends that first year sod or seeded bermuda not be overseeded until next year. For irrigation information check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:02 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:02 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Alan, The Jacaranda usually has a heavy bloom in the spring with a few blooms ocasionally throughout the summer. You may have a species that will bloom twice a year, or it could be an oddity of nature that has caused your tree to have a heavy bloom in the fall. Do you live in the Phoenix area ? If so where did you buy the tree ? I would like to find out if this is a newly developed species. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From janal@juno.com Tue Sep 26 03:50:35 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:50:35 -0700 (MST) From: janal@juno.com janal@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Subject- Dead Flowers I have a slightly raised garden bed and planted Vinca a I always have in the past. These have done well in the summer. I planted Pansies last winter and these also did well. However, this summer the planting of vinca died for no apparent reason. We have a sprinkling system (drip) on a timer. At first the flowers looked stressed from what might have been a lack of water, then they dried up. Bought some more and these did the same thing. The Huneysuckle vine, rosemary and hergs, etc, in the general area are doing fine. Someone told me that putting the Pansies in and then Vinca causes something to happen to the soil. Isw this a fact? If so, what can I do to correct the problemlll, ie additives, etc. ?? Thanks you for your any help. Janice Wipf From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 13:49:56 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:49:56 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0-- From dbreiner@segalco.com Tue Sep 26 16:18:28 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:18:28 -0700 (MST) From: dbreiner@segalco.com dbreiner@segalco.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am planning on putting in a rose garden in my backyard in southern Scottsdale. The roses will be against the west wall so will get the morning sun from the east. They also are near an elm tree which will provide partial shade. My questions: which varieties of roses are best suited to this environment? which are the most fragrant? most beautiful? Thank you for your help. From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Tue Sep 26 18:36:25 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:36:25 -0700 (MST) From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM MADASMITH@AOL.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is any one familiar with the area of 45th Ave and Olive? The city planted pine trees along the street area and the area is only about 3 feet wide. I would like to find out what kind of pine tree they are, that I guess they are not going to get real big. Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge. From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Tue Sep 26 18:52:41 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:52:41 -0700 (MST) From: Don Garnett dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: beetles on rosemary, salvia - a threat? We have a rosemary plant and two salvias, about one year old, southern exposure, a little shade provided by a palo verde, watered 1-2 times per week by drip. Lately the rosemary and salvias have been sporting numerous white, frothy tufts of liquid. Closer examination shows that the froth encases a small brown insect, about 3/8 inch long, shaped like a lady bug. One more was found on a branch of the palo verde which had been in direct contact with the rosemary. The plants look very healthy otherwise. Can anyone tell us what these insects are and if they pose a threat to our plantings? From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:01:10 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:01:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] SEPTIC TANK Ella: I'm sorry that you have not received a response to your honeysuckle question. I will see if I can find an answer for you and respond. Thank you for your patience. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 21:05:55 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:05:55 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM Subject: Fw:=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM
Subject: Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:34:31 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:34:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug: Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn. For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Douglas Anderson wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September > 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, > September 25, 2000 11:35 AM > I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with > perennial ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own > once the weather cools off? --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug:
Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn.  For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Douglas Anderson wrote:

 
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw:
  
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM
 I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools off?
--------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:58:46 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:58:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mums; Flowers for Planters A fellow Master Gardener recently wrote in our monthly newsletter that she keeps her mums in ceramic/clay pots [vs. plastic] in dappled shade during the summer and when the temps start to drop in the fall places them in full sun. She claims to have been rewarded consistently with fall blooms doing this. You don't mention the type of plants you want in your beds or exposure to sunlight. If you are interested in appropriate selection of annuals, check out our online flower publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener giza41@aol.com wrote: > what type of plants would be good for partial shade in my front lawn, I have a long border on each side of my sidewald of about 15 feet length and about a foot wide, and also I have mums planted in my front plantar form last year they havent bloomed since last winter-spring will they bloom soon or should I take them out they are also in partial shade. Thank you From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:00:32 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:00:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palm Care] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] What's the assessment on Doug's brown palm??? Linda --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailTS.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailTS.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 72762 invoked by uid 0); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: (qmail 76555 invoked from network); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: from motgate.mot.com (129.188.136.100) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: [from pobox3.mot.com (pobox3.mot.com [10.64.251.242]) by motgate.mot.com (motgate 2.1) with ESMTP id NAA07577 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:17 -0700 (MST)] Received: [from az33exi01.corp.mot.com (az33exi01.corp.mot.com [199.2.84.10]) by pobox3.mot.com (MOT-pobox3 2.0) with ESMTP id NAA17772 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:07:55 -0700 (MST)] Received: by az33exi01.corp.mot.com with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:16 -0700 Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:15 -0700 Message-ID: <87568F78ABDCD211A0AC0008C707718B02A4CE3A@az10exm03.sat.mot.com> From: "Geist Douglas-P11054" To: "'Linda Guy'" Subject: RE: Queen Palm Care MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thanks for the info, I read the article and have some follow on questions. Do you have a phone? I can talk faster than I can type (480-732-4803). The major problem I have is that the palm leaves on all my Queens (I have 5) are all turning brown (as opposed to yellow). I have them on a drip system that runs every 3 days for 1 1/2 hours (about 6 gals total), plus I deep water them every 2 weeks (summer schedule). I have put "palm food" on three time this summer. They are growing very slow. I have one palm that has yellow leaves coming out at the "bud" area and I suspected bud rot and put two applications of Bordeaux on in August. Need more applications? Any ideas? Thanks, Doug -----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:15 AM To: Doug.Geist Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: Queen Palm Care Apologies if I am duplicating someone else's response, but we've had a few queen palm questions in the last few days. We have an excellent palm publication which you can access online. Our list of publications is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you will find the palm pub under the ornamentals section. Queen palms are much fussier than some others in our soils and drying winds. Take a look at the crown for signs of rot, too, post monsoon season. If you have questions after you've read material, let us know. Linda Guy Master Gardener doug.geist@motorola.com wrote: > My Queen Palms are struggling. I would like to talk to someone about the care and feeding. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:23 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Here's another person's viewpoint on kalanchoes. I am aware that there are some people who grow kalanchoe outdoors, some of which have reseeded quite nicely. One server member offered her 'volunteers' free to whomever wanted to come and dig some last spring! But with about 200 species in this genus, it's hard to give only the most general of advice. Many of us are able to grow indoor plants in selected places outdoors, often the northern facade, as this person shares. Still, Sunset Western Garden's general assessment is that these are indoor plants. It seems that this respondent's view, like mine, is that the recent heat may be the culprit, and some additional water in this period of stress might be helpful. Thanks for your input, Jay! Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailKF.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailKF.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 10708 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: (qmail 12564 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from imo-r13.mx.aol.com (152.163.225.67) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from J082758@aol.com by imo-r13.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.15.) id 9.70.32224de (1782) for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:09 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:08 EDT Message-ID: <70.32224de.26f85674@aol.com> From: J082758@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Re: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hi! For your edification, I have several Kalanchoe growing outside (in pots) year-round. Mine are against a north wall. I have no problems with them EXCEPT in extremely hot weather such as we have been experiencing lately.They are doing fine when I water them a couple of times per week during this unseasonable weather. If I forget them they start to wilt on me. As you suggested, they do have excellent drainage. I live east of Mesa. At the present time mine are blooming. Sincerely, Jay --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:45 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:45 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Vanilla planifolia] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Thanks to all who helped Mickey out! --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmail8N.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmail8N.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 82775 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: (qmail 9989 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from smtp.ispchannel.com (HELO smtp2a.ispchannel.com) (24.142.63.7) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from q5l9x0 ([208.164.114.242]) by smtp2a.ispchannel.com (InterMail vK.4.02.00.00 201-232-116 license 7d3764cdaca754bf8ae20adf0db2aa60) with SMTP id <20000919171608.HUQV382.smtp2a@q5l9x0> for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:16:08 -0700 Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:12:55 -0700 Message-ID: <001301c0225c$dac43040$f272a4d0@lakehavasu.ispchannel.com> From: "Ron & Marian Liesen" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Vanilla planifolia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks to you and a marvelous person, Wilella Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid = Society I have two positive sites to order my vanilla planifolia. = Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant if I ever get to = the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total strange. The = internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. Mickey Liesen P.S. From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is the easy part of my hair-brained idea! ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks to you and a marvelous person, = Wilella=20 Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid Society I have two positive sites to order my = vanilla=20 planifolia.  Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant = if I ever=20 get to the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total = strange.  The=20 internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. =20 Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. =20 Mickey Liesen  P.S.  From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is=20 the easy part of my hair-brained idea!
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0-- --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:30 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:30 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm, Lemon and Orange Tree Problems [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm going to try to help you with some of your tree problems, but may not be able to do a good job on all of them. I do not recall hearing that termites would attack trees, but I suppose anything is possible. You will get good info from a few of our publications, that will help you identify if indeed you have termites, and which kinds. MC-39 Termites; MC-40 ID of Termites and Some Similar Winged Insects; MC 79 AZ Termites. Unfortunately, these are not online. Go to the following page of our webiste for instructions on ordering them http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Or ask your public library if they have a volume of the Home Horticulture pubs in the reference section, code 635. On the same page, if you go to the ornamentals section, you will see a hotlink to our palm care publication AZ 1021. It will give you plenty of insights as to what may have arisen with your queen palms, which are fussier than most other palms in the Phoenix climate. They are susceptible to bud rot, nematodes, root rot and iron chlorosis.Please read up in the section on diseases and other problem management [p.6] in an effort to identify your issues and save the remaining trees. Color of citrus fruit is not a reliable guide to a fruit's ripeness. It is often affected by the weather, which needs to get cold enough [our winters have been anything but lately] to change green fruit to its appropriate color. Green fruit can still become quite ripe. You might be interested in looking at a few of our citrus pubs on the same web page; some are available online. However, this wouldn't have been a reason for the tree to die. You haven't given enough information on the tree's age, your care practices, its exposure, etc. to help identify the source of its demise. If there was a 'smelly' condition, it was probably phytophthora foot rot http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/phytop.htm The fruit peel texture was probably citrus thrips whose damage is mostly cosmetic with the fruit itself remaining good http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm Again, taste is the only good indicator that the fruit is mature and, if it is not yet ripe, it needs to be left on the tree to do so. Did you wait long enough for your oranges? Did you pick at the appropriate time [see publication AZ 1001 in the citrus section]? If you tried to ripen the citrus anywhere but on the tree, your results would be as disappointing as you've indicated. If this isn't the case, I wonder if there wasn't something else that happened to cause the poor quality of your juicing oranges. Change in fertilization or watering practice? Overspray of some chemical? Linda Guy Master Gardener Deb6363@uswest.net wrote: > I have lost two queen palms to termites, or > thats what Iam told killed them. I have two > and dont want the same thing to happen. Is there > anything I can put on them to get rid of the > termite problem??? > > Also, My lemon treed died- I have no idea why > but in past years it would be loaded with lemons > in the right season then last year somehow it > started to get Limes!!! I was told it cross > pollinated with my orange and grapefruit trees. > Can this really happen? Now this year I have no > lemons or limes! > > Any while Iam on the tree role, 5 years ago one > of my orange trees got really great juicing > oranges and since they just get a rough bumpy/blubbly > type peel and are very sour. > > Any help you can give me would be greatly appriciated. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:05 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Soil for Yuccas [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I don't grow these plants, but our fellow Master Gardener who is the container plant guru recommends a soil mix for cactus and succulents of 2 parts pumice to one part potting soil. True, yuccas are in the lily family, but they often grow in conditions also conducive to succulents. You might want to read the relevant pages in the Sunset Western Garden Book, and Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, both of which are no doubt available in your public library. Periodic deep waterings are generally enough. Drainage is key.... if these containers are outdoors, get rid of the saucers! Don't let the plants sit in water. Linda Guy Master Gardener laurel_van_ruitenbeek@hotmail.com wrote: > What type of soil and in what proportions should be used to pot yucca plants? My father-in-law in the Phoenix area gave me several small clippings to bring home (Dallas area). I have had the clippings in water, and roots are starting to grow. Thanks for your help. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:48 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] SEPTIC TANK Plantings [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes! Linda Guy Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:03:02 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:03:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm interested in hearing feedback on last Wednesday's Republic garden blurb on controlling pearl scale. I've never been happy with our site's limited recommendation that little can be done. I guess I want to give folks something to do! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm A gentleman wrote from Scottsdale with advice received from Harper's to wit regular treatment with Merit [what sort of insecticide is this and/or its active ingredients?] to at least manage the scale population and application of a water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. Lowering the soil pH makes the scale's habitat less hospitable since it prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job, but rather kept the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from spreading. What say you folks who've fought the good fight? Any other treatment suggestions? Linda Guy Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:14:35 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:14:35 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replanting Ryegrass Douglas, If you want green grass this winter you will need to replant the ryegrass this fall. Perenial rye is a cool season grass and cannot handle the high temperatures in the low desert consequently it dies out in April or May and allows the Bermuda to florish. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From dickcarmi@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:47:33 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:47:33 -0700 (MST) From: dickcarmi@aol.com dickcarmi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you. From c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com Wed Sep 27 00:32:27 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:32:27 -0700 From: Charlie Thomas c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscubscribe From kelarsen@primenet.com Wed Sep 27 03:05:58 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:05:58 -0700 (MST) From: kelarsen@primenet.com kelarsen@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Wed Sep 27 04:39:51 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:39:51 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The Western Garden Book says that the jade plant is OK for zones 12-24, which includes us in the Valley. But my healthy, large jade plant took a nosedive once the temperatures moved to and stayed in the 100's. The 'leaves' burned. It eventually died. But all my Elephant's Food (Portulacaria Afra) plants do very well all year long and need little water. They look like a jade plant but grow faster. They supposedly grow 12 ft tall, though mine spread wide instead - kind of overflowing the pots which looks nice. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of kelarsen@primenet.com Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:06 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dg.anderson@home.com Wed Sep 27 12:59:22 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 05:59:22 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in with perennial rye grass this fall? ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in = with perennial=20 rye grass this fall?
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0-- From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:25:32 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:27:06 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:27:06 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too big I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:27 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:27 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree recommendation Since the Carob tree is quite susceptible to Texas Root Rot I would suspect that TRR killed your Carob and especially if it died quite suddenly and the leaves stayed on the tree. The only trees that are immune to TRR are Palms and bamboo. Most of the desert adapted trees such as mesquite and palo verde are resistant to TRR. Even so if you intend to plant in the same location as the Carob I would suggest that you treat the soil first with a chemical such as Vapam. Directions, information, and a list of trees that are resistant to TRR are available in Cooperative Extension bulletin 8734 from U. of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a charge of $1.00, or most public libraries will have this in the referance section. The Tipu tree is listed as being deciduous or simi deciduous which means it will probably lose its leaves in winter in the Phoenix area. My preferance would be a thornless mesquite, if it is irrigated properly and the crown thinned to cut down wind resistance it will stay upright. The only negative is the seed pod drop. Why not visit Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale where you can see many different varieties of trees that do well in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:33 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control Hi Linda, I'll pass on the info that I have about the use of Merit to control pearl scale. Since Merit is not registered for use on pearl scale, U.of A. staff and Master Gardeners are not allowed to recommend the use of Merit to control pearl scale. I have heard that some landscapers are using Merit with some sucess. I didn't see the article in the Republic so I cannot comment. Merit is however registered for use on grubs I'm told. Good luck and keep up the good work. Rod From molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 28 00:06:06 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:06:06 -0700 From: Mary Olsen molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page At 01:25 PM 9/27/00 -0700, you wrote: >I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. Could you send me some specifics about the symptoms on your carob tree? How fast did it die and how old is the tree? Also, could you describe the fungus that was on the ground around the tree? Was it a low white mat, shelf-like or bulbous shaped growths at the base, or golden brown growths at the base? Did it smell like a mushroom? Was it attached to the tree or roots? Thanks for the information - Mary Olsen, Extension Specialist in Plant Pathology Dr. Mary Olsen Associate Extension Specialist Dept. of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204 University of Arizona Tucson, AZ 85721 phone 520-626-2681 email molsen@ag.arizona.edu From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 04:19:48 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:19:48 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turfgrass information This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0" ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable More information to help your thinking process on turfgrass plans. ------------------------ "Oh For The Green Green Grass of Home=85=85=85=85" 6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener =96 Research Agronomist =96 Seed = Research of Oregon Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn "back = home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead of = the gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with your = new home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you=92ve decided = you would like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may = have bought an older, flood irrigated home with an already existing = large lawn area and want to reduce your work load, or you have one of = those silly (AKA "stupid") little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front = yard that needs constant maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for = a play area because it=92s too small =96 these can easily be redesigned = and renovated. You could spend months trying to decipher all the = conflicting information and opinions on lawn and turf areas for this = area. Comments you may have heard include: "Lawns & turf are the biggest = water waster, and certainly are not native to the desert" OR "A properly = maintained lawn can cool a house, reducing overall water and electric = use" OR "Water=92s cheap in the desert, so why worry?" OR "After all, = you still see those older flood irrigated yards with acres of turf and = the golf courses seem to water their grass every day" OR even "Lawns are = the major source of allergy causing pollen in this area". Are you now = more confused than ever? What to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What = Do I Do? Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or = "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other nations = (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for more history and details). As people moved West and = Southwest to the deserts, to enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit = came along. Having a lawn or not is a very personal decision based on = your own values, leisure time, esthetics, budget, etc. so I won=92t say = here whether you should grow grass in the desert or not =96 I will = however give you some basic background and suggestions that may help = reduce the mystery and misinformation, ultimately helping you to = formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right lawn in the = right manner. Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly designed, = properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a place in many = desert dwellers=92 homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas for = children and pets or even entertaining adults, they do actually cool a = house and yard which does reduce total water and electric use for the = household, and they can be esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintained = at the proper height, they will not bloom or spread pollen =96 in fact, = turf areas are excellent for filtering the air of many other airborne = pollutants and irritants. Planned properly, planted properly and = maintained properly, a turf area is actually a smart item for most = property owners. If these steps are not thought out and carried through = correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly planted and poorly = maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will certainly live up to = all the anti-turf comments you have heard. Read through the following = information as you plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting. Before you plant, PLAN PROPERLY =96 1) SIZE - discuss with your spouse = and kids how much lawn they need or want for play use and how large an = area are you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple research = to learn about the correct type of lawngrass for your situation (full = sun or shaded, high or low level of play use, more use planned for = summer or winter seasons, what level of lawn care and budget do you = want, etc.?) =96 we have only a very limited selection of grasses to = choose from in the low desert due to our winter to summer temperature = extremes, so choose correctly =96 keep in mind that just because its = offered for sale at your local garden center, it is not necessarily = appropriate for your climate and the grass variety or kind you grew in = your yard "back home" is most likely not adapted to our climate, 3) = LOCATION =96 do you really want a turf area in your tiny front yard = where the children are not allowed to play due to traffic, or should it = be in your backyard where it can be used and enjoyed by the entire = family =96 grass is a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get = the best sun exposure, 4) WATER =96 investigate and plan a good = automatic irrigation system to make your lawn a lot happier and a lot = healthier, plus to reduce waste of this precious commodity =96 look on = the expense of a good lawn irrigation system as an investment, not a = cost =96 a properly watered & maintained lawn, planted to the correct = turf species does not have to be a water waster, as many turfgrass = species such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought = tolerance. Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY =96 as with any perennial garden = planting, your soil preparation and planting process will have an = enormous impact on the long term health and success of your lawn. Good = detailed information on lawn preparation and planting is available from = local lawn seed or sod suppliers, as well as the University of Arizona = and your local Extension office. Bottom line, prepare the soil well =96 = don=92t just throw the grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect = it to thrive. A poorly prepared lawn soil will mean long or short term = failure and will certainly cause you to waste water in trying to keep = your struggling turf alive. Last and just as important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY =96 think of your = turfgrass plants as if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If = you don=92t maintain them well, they will be more susceptible to stress = from temperature extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will require = larger inputs of chemicals, water, time and energy just to stay alive. = As the weather changes, check with your local water company or in the = gardening section of the newspaper for correct water amounts for the = various times of the year. Remember again that your lawn is a group of = garden plants =96 you certainly don=92t water your trees, flowers or = vegetables the same amount all year. AND, please don=92t copy your = neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, merely assuming they know = what is best for your yard also. Just because a nearby homeowner waters = his lawn at midnight twice a week, or the local golf course waters their = fairways every morning for 20 minutes or your local school or park mows = twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean that you = should do the same =96 you surely don=92t butcher your old mulberry = trees, just because that guy at the end of the block does it every year? = Correct turfgrass maintenance (mowing, fertilizing, watering, = overseeding, etc.) differs drastically from site to site depending on = the soil type, the mowing height, sun exposure, amount of use or play, = the grass variety or kind planted, disease and insect pests present, and = many other factors. Read the materials provided by your local garden = center or Extension office, take a class in turfgrass maintenance at = your local college or even attend the desert turfgrass session planned = for the upcoming Low Desert Gardening Conference in late July. Since you = are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn as a = grouping or planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them as = such, rather than as The Great Mystery. Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it will = enjoy being yours for many years to come. ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
More information to help your = thinking process=20 on turfgrass plans.
 
 
------------------------

"Oh For The Green Green Grass of=20 Home…………"

 

6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener – Research Agronomist = – Seed=20 Research of Oregon

Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn = "back=20 home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead = of the=20 gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with = your new=20 home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you’ve decided = you would=20 like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may have = bought an=20 older, flood irrigated home with an already existing large lawn area and = want to=20 reduce your work load, or you have one of those silly (AKA = "stupid")=20 little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front yard that needs constant=20 maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for a play area because = it’s=20 too small – these can easily be redesigned and renovated. You = could spend=20 months trying to decipher all the conflicting information and opinions = on lawn=20 and turf areas for this area. Comments you may have heard include: = "Lawns=20 & turf are the biggest water waster, and certainly are not native to = the=20 desert" OR "A properly maintained lawn can cool a house, = reducing=20 overall water and electric use" OR "Water’s cheap in the = desert,=20 so why worry?" OR "After all, you still see those older flood=20 irrigated yards with acres of turf and the golf courses seem to water = their=20 grass every day" OR even "Lawns are the major source of = allergy=20 causing pollen in this area". Are you now more confused than = ever? What=20 to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What Do I Do?

 

Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or=20 "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other = nations=20 (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for=20 more history and details). As people moved West and Southwest to the = deserts, to=20 enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit came along. Having a lawn or = not is a=20 very personal decision based on your own values, leisure time, = esthetics,=20 budget, etc. so I won’t say here whether you should grow grass in = the=20 desert or not – I will however give you some basic background and=20 suggestions that may help reduce the mystery and misinformation, = ultimately=20 helping you to formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right = lawn in=20 the right manner.

Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly = designed, properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a = place in=20 many desert dwellers’ homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas = for=20 children and pets or ev