From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 20:59:51 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:51 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:07:22 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:07:22 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:08:32 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:10:26 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:10:26 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:29:58 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:29:58 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Damaged Olive Tree Mark, It sounds like you do not have any choice but to do a flush cut to remove the fallen limb. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:30:04 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] When to plant Chilean Mesquite Jim, If some one has not answered your question , here goes. Mesquites can be planted nearly any time of year, however Oct. and Nov. would be my choice for planting them. The problem with the preformed concrete rings is that they are too small. You should be watering the entire root zone of your tree, and in a couple of years the roots will be way out beyond the 3 foot rings. Why not make an earth berm at about 8 or 10 feet diameter, then the whole root zone will be watered, at least for a few years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Sep 21 23:52:00 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:52:00 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Finest Horticultural Education Experience in the West Attention all you Arid Gardener subscribers! You are cordially invited to attend the 2000 Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference. The conference will be held October 14-16 at the Mesa Conference Center, Mesa AZ. This non-profit conference is being presented by the Master Gardeners from the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. It is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardening Conference and is the only conference of its kind in the Southwest to share time and research-based information on gardening in the low deserts of the arid Southwest with homeowners, educators, rose lovers, arborists, horticultural professionals and Master Gardener volunteers from the 13-state Western region. This is a GREAT place to get answers to your gardening questions. Learn new techniques, solutions to gardening problems and the best plants for your landscape situation. Are you interested in starting a butterfly garden? A hummingbird garden? Two of the many talks to be given are on Butterflies and Hummingbirds by experts in these fields. Are you new to the state? What better place to learn all the ins and outs of gardening in the low desert - a totally different experience if you are from the midwest or the east. Beside the variety of plant topics which will be most useful to you, the new Arizona resident, you will also find talks on such topics as the various Life Zones of Arizona, given by Terry Mikel. Or you might enjoy our talk entitled, "From Rim to Rim: Ethnobotany of the Grand Canyon", a talk and slide presentation given by Greg Woodall, archaeologist, Colorado River guide, and botanist for Grand Canyon National Park. We have something from everyone. And our vendor line-up alone will have you feeling like you are in shopping heaven, just in time for the holidays! Specialized hands-on workshop sessions will be held on Saturday, October 14th. These include, "Confident Tree and Shrub Pruning", "Making Gourd Birdhouses", "Creating a Memory Tile from Found Objects", "How to Build Your Own Fountain", "How to Make Beautiful Flower Arrangements Using Roses" at the ARS-sanctioned Rose Arrangement workshop and a Container Gardening Workshop. The two-day conference rate for Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16, including a Sunset Welcome Reception on Saturday, October 14 at the Desert Botanic Garden, featuring a slide show tour of gardens around the country by Mr. Jim Flint, Youth Garden Grants Director for the National Gardening Association, all sessions for the two days, breakfast and lunch for both days and a Sunday Western Round-Up Dinner is $175. Conference price without the dinner is $155. Or you can choose to attend for one day only and the price is $90. The full conference price for Master Gardeners is $150. To view complete information about this incredible educational experience, including session descriptions, speakers, workshops and tours, please visit our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Information on registration is on the web site. We hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 22 23:08:59 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:08:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Roses are a member of the same family as pyracantha which is quite susceptable to fire blight, however I've never seen Fireblight on roses in the low desert. The tell tale symptom of fireblight is that the canes will look as if they were burned with a blow torch. Rust and blackspot are very seldom seen on roses in tthe low desert. The only fungus that we have to contend with is powdery mildew. For this we are thankful. The symptoms that you describe is fairly common in the low desert, but to my knowledge has not been named. I have lost several roses this summer to those same symptoms. Recently I sent a rose dying with those symptoms to the Univ. of Arizona pathology lab in Tuscon. They were unable to find a pathogen that was causing the problem. Yesterday at a rose society meeting I talked with four other Consulting Rosarians about the problem that we all encounter, one that you described, and we all agreed that the problem is caused by high temperatures, wind and sun burn and inadequate irrigation. Even with adequate irrigation there may be times when the rose is not able to take up enough water to satisfy its need. Most of the rosarians that are growing roses for show are doing some things to help the rose handle our hot summers such as; Covering their roses with shade screen. Wash down or mist their roses often, daily if possible. Cover the rose bed with a 3 or 4 inch mulch. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored on summer rose care, I hope it will be helpful. If you live in the east valley I'd like to extend an invitation to attend the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting which will be held at Mesa Community College, student center, Kiva room at 7.00 pm on Oct. 12. If you can attend you will pass by MCC's rose garden with over 3000 Roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bstttharker@aol.com Sat Sep 23 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: bstttharker@aol.com bstttharker@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. Thanks for any help you can give. From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 01:16:54 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:16:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Landscape Welcome to Gilbert! I also live in Gilbert. I'd like to direct you to our publications page which you can reach by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Many of our publications may be viewed on line. If you go the section called "Ornamentals" you will find some of these on-line files which would most likely be helpful to you. One is entitled "Plants for Poolside Landscape" which would be helpful to you since you mentioned you would like to include a pool/spa in your new landscape. Under the heading "Flowers" you will find on-line a flower and bedding guide as well as a plant table. Please browse around. Although not all of the publications are on-line, others are available form the Maricopa County Cooperative Extenstion office. Many of the library branches also have a binder with these publications in them and you can make a copy. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. Another good source of information is our on-line version of the Master Gardener manual which you can access at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ You will find information on planting, irrigation, fertilization, etc. If you haven't visited our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Please take your time and browse around. There are many good sources of information listed here including a "Recommended Reading" section listing excellent books. Our Events section lists upcoming classes that may be helpful. If you haven't heard about the Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference which the Maricopa County Master Gardeners are hosting in October, you may want to take a look. There will be speakers talking about many topics that are excellent for homeowners thinking about installing new landscapes. You can view information about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Good Luck! I hope I didn't overload you. Feel free to contact us any time for further information. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstttharker@aol.com wrote: > We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. > We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. > We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. > Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. > Thanks for any help you can give. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:53:30 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:53:30 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in wat ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:54:15 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. RP Wells From greatmfs@aol.com Sat Sep 23 15:36:37 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:36:37 -0700 (MST) From: greatmfs@aol.com greatmfs@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You mike From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 19:45:52 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:45:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Science Alive Conference - Hydroponics When I attanded the SW Horticultural Trade Show recently, I found a flier on an annual educational conference sponsored by UA and others in Tucson from January 2-6, 2001. This annual gathering of educators, students and community members is focusing this year on the field of hydroponics. Check out additional information at http://ag.arizona.edu/science_alive/ Linda From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 22:17:46 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth -or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly appreciated and we thank you in advance. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 22:45:13 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:45:13 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have not grown grapes myself. I do have a publication written by Michael Kilby, Extension Specialist, Fruit and Nut Crops. For training grapes, he states: "FIRST YEAR: The main objective is to develop a root system, therefore, no pruning is necessary. Growers should not attempt to train vines as reserves in the roots are not great enough to support both vine and root development. During the dormant season the vine is cut back to the stongest best positioned one or two shoots." So, my understanding would be to leave the current growth and wait to prune in January. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dkrob6@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) > >We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our >ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. >Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before >it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know >if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in >length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth >-or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly >appreciated and we thank you in advance. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:07:04 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:07:04 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have had some success with loosening the existing soil, adding 4-6 inches of organic material (usually compost), and ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur per label directions. Mix all together very well, rake to smooth and remove clumps and rocks, and water. (Correct irrigation is critical here in the desert). If you want an organic garden, then substitute organic products for the ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur. The organic material can be anything that is available locally and is inexpensive, just make sure it is well composted. Others are growing in pure compost. You will probably get many different ideas! My two cents.... Linda Drew >From: orpha@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) > >If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would >it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that >is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. > >RP Wells _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 23 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:28:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnias - When to Spread Seeds This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now? One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. Thanks for any information anybody can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Is it OK = to spread zinnia seeds now?=A0 One packet = of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet = says that they should be spread in May. =A0=A0

 

Thanks = for any information anybody can give me.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 23:45:43 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:45:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia - planting time --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula! According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November. You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months. The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds > says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; > another packet says that they should be spread in May. > > Thanks for any information anybody can give me. > > Ursula Miller > --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Ursula!
According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November.  You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months.  The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Ursula Miller wrote:

Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. 

Thanks for any information anybody can give me. 

Ursula Miller

--------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Mon Sep 25 16:55:40 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:55:40 -0700 (PDT) From: BOB RAMSEY ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees I have read your info regarding irrigation of citrus but it seems no matter how long I leave the water on, I cannot probe more than 20 in. 2hrs after completing irrigation. I have a large well out to the edge of the cannopy and use bubblers. I estimate that I apply about 3 gallons a minute and leave the bubblers on for 1 1/2 hrs. It takes up to 8 hrs for the well to drain dry. Am I just the victim of heavy clay soil and shoulg I do any thing about it? The trees look OK although the lemon tree is still recovering from a leaf drop last season. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Sep 25 17:22:27 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:22:27 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Hello, I have a question. My Jacaranda tree blooms twice per year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. Is this common? I've never noticed this happening on other Jacaranda trees in the neighborhood. This year the fall bloom was even showier than the spring bloom. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) From Mythreesunz@aol.com Mon Sep 25 17:54:51 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:54:51 -0700 (MST) From: Mythreesunz@aol.com Mythreesunz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chinese Evergreen Elm trees the end of April 2000; in August a monsoon wind blew one of them partially over (we were out of town but a neighbor re-staked it. Two weeks later it dropped all of its leaves (our other tree didn't) and now it is growing new leaves. Did the stress of partially blowing over cause this? Also I need to know how & when to prune these trees, watering guidelines for the winter and fertilizing. We plant a winter lawn where these trees are and I am wondering how the watering and fertilizing of our winter lawn will affect these trees. Thank you for your response. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Mon Sep 25 18:44:41 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:41 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of corn. But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. Thanks in advance, - Jim From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 25 21:21:28 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:21:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Payson Area Garden Tour ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pauline Rodriguez" > > The High Country Garden Club will have a fall garden tour, September 30, from > 8:00 to 4:00, on Saturday, and Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 . There will be 6 > gardens, with refreshments and bath room accessibility, at the one in East > Verde Estates. Two have zeriscape landscaping, very well done, one > at Loins Spring road, that is 2 1/2 acres, that is a gardeners dream. Bob > Muggli has 20 different variety of grapes, 50 rose bushes, has built his > work shop of straw bales, many unique verities of cross bred fruit trees, > for instance, Aprim, which is 75% apricot and 25% plum. Many berries, a > Japanese garden in the making. > > The one that will take time to tour , is Joanne Chilcoat, on Flowing Springs > Road. Joanne has 5 Acres, with roses, pond, boulders, exotic pheasants, > burro, goats, more than I can describe. In fact, they are doing a shoot > tomorrow, for the COUNTRY GARDENER magazine, to be featured in an issue, > next year. She is one of five in the US, to be selected for this honor. . > Please direct any questions to Pauline at hawkeye@goodnet.com . Olin From papa-nannie@rkis.com Mon Sep 25 22:41:10 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:41:10 -0700 (MST) From: papa-nannie@rkis.com papa-nannie@rkis.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will you please give me instructions for trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. also will a Money plant grow here? My sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told me to soak them before planting, but I can find no other info on them. thank you for your help, Nena Shelton From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 20:59:51 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:51 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:07:22 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:07:22 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:08:32 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:10:26 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:10:26 -0700 From: Michael Rose mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:29:58 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:29:58 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Damaged Olive Tree Mark, It sounds like you do not have any choice but to do a flush cut to remove the fallen limb. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:30:04 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] When to plant Chilean Mesquite Jim, If some one has not answered your question , here goes. Mesquites can be planted nearly any time of year, however Oct. and Nov. would be my choice for planting them. The problem with the preformed concrete rings is that they are too small. You should be watering the entire root zone of your tree, and in a couple of years the roots will be way out beyond the 3 foot rings. Why not make an earth berm at about 8 or 10 feet diameter, then the whole root zone will be watered, at least for a few years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Sep 21 23:52:00 2000 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:52:00 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Finest Horticultural Education Experience in the West Attention all you Arid Gardener subscribers! You are cordially invited to attend the 2000 Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference. The conference will be held October 14-16 at the Mesa Conference Center, Mesa AZ. This non-profit conference is being presented by the Master Gardeners from the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. It is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardening Conference and is the only conference of its kind in the Southwest to share time and research-based information on gardening in the low deserts of the arid Southwest with homeowners, educators, rose lovers, arborists, horticultural professionals and Master Gardener volunteers from the 13-state Western region. This is a GREAT place to get answers to your gardening questions. Learn new techniques, solutions to gardening problems and the best plants for your landscape situation. Are you interested in starting a butterfly garden? A hummingbird garden? Two of the many talks to be given are on Butterflies and Hummingbirds by experts in these fields. Are you new to the state? What better place to learn all the ins and outs of gardening in the low desert - a totally different experience if you are from the midwest or the east. Beside the variety of plant topics which will be most useful to you, the new Arizona resident, you will also find talks on such topics as the various Life Zones of Arizona, given by Terry Mikel. Or you might enjoy our talk entitled, "From Rim to Rim: Ethnobotany of the Grand Canyon", a talk and slide presentation given by Greg Woodall, archaeologist, Colorado River guide, and botanist for Grand Canyon National Park. We have something from everyone. And our vendor line-up alone will have you feeling like you are in shopping heaven, just in time for the holidays! Specialized hands-on workshop sessions will be held on Saturday, October 14th. These include, "Confident Tree and Shrub Pruning", "Making Gourd Birdhouses", "Creating a Memory Tile from Found Objects", "How to Build Your Own Fountain", "How to Make Beautiful Flower Arrangements Using Roses" at the ARS-sanctioned Rose Arrangement workshop and a Container Gardening Workshop. The two-day conference rate for Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16, including a Sunset Welcome Reception on Saturday, October 14 at the Desert Botanic Garden, featuring a slide show tour of gardens around the country by Mr. Jim Flint, Youth Garden Grants Director for the National Gardening Association, all sessions for the two days, breakfast and lunch for both days and a Sunday Western Round-Up Dinner is $175. Conference price without the dinner is $155. Or you can choose to attend for one day only and the price is $90. The full conference price for Master Gardeners is $150. To view complete information about this incredible educational experience, including session descriptions, speakers, workshops and tours, please visit our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Information on registration is on the web site. We hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 22 23:08:59 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:08:59 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Roses are a member of the same family as pyracantha which is quite susceptable to fire blight, however I've never seen Fireblight on roses in the low desert. The tell tale symptom of fireblight is that the canes will look as if they were burned with a blow torch. Rust and blackspot are very seldom seen on roses in tthe low desert. The only fungus that we have to contend with is powdery mildew. For this we are thankful. The symptoms that you describe is fairly common in the low desert, but to my knowledge has not been named. I have lost several roses this summer to those same symptoms. Recently I sent a rose dying with those symptoms to the Univ. of Arizona pathology lab in Tuscon. They were unable to find a pathogen that was causing the problem. Yesterday at a rose society meeting I talked with four other Consulting Rosarians about the problem that we all encounter, one that you described, and we all agreed that the problem is caused by high temperatures, wind and sun burn and inadequate irrigation. Even with adequate irrigation there may be times when the rose is not able to take up enough water to satisfy its need. Most of the rosarians that are growing roses for show are doing some things to help the rose handle our hot summers such as; Covering their roses with shade screen. Wash down or mist their roses often, daily if possible. Cover the rose bed with a 3 or 4 inch mulch. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored on summer rose care, I hope it will be helpful. If you live in the east valley I'd like to extend an invitation to attend the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting which will be held at Mesa Community College, student center, Kiva room at 7.00 pm on Oct. 12. If you can attend you will pass by MCC's rose garden with over 3000 Roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bstttharker@aol.com Sat Sep 23 00:28:48 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) From: bstttharker@aol.com bstttharker@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. Thanks for any help you can give. From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 01:16:54 2000 Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:16:54 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Landscape Welcome to Gilbert! I also live in Gilbert. I'd like to direct you to our publications page which you can reach by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Many of our publications may be viewed on line. If you go the section called "Ornamentals" you will find some of these on-line files which would most likely be helpful to you. One is entitled "Plants for Poolside Landscape" which would be helpful to you since you mentioned you would like to include a pool/spa in your new landscape. Under the heading "Flowers" you will find on-line a flower and bedding guide as well as a plant table. Please browse around. Although not all of the publications are on-line, others are available form the Maricopa County Cooperative Extenstion office. Many of the library branches also have a binder with these publications in them and you can make a copy. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. Another good source of information is our on-line version of the Master Gardener manual which you can access at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ You will find information on planting, irrigation, fertilization, etc. If you haven't visited our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Please take your time and browse around. There are many good sources of information listed here including a "Recommended Reading" section listing excellent books. Our Events section lists upcoming classes that may be helpful. If you haven't heard about the Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference which the Maricopa County Master Gardeners are hosting in October, you may want to take a look. There will be speakers talking about many topics that are excellent for homeowners thinking about installing new landscapes. You can view information about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Good Luck! I hope I didn't overload you. Feel free to contact us any time for further information. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstttharker@aol.com wrote: > We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. > We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. > We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. > Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. > Thanks for any help you can give. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:53:30 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:53:30 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in wat ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:54:15 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) From: orpha@home.com orpha@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. RP Wells From greatmfs@aol.com Sat Sep 23 15:36:37 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:36:37 -0700 (MST) From: greatmfs@aol.com greatmfs@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You mike From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 19:45:52 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:45:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Science Alive Conference - Hydroponics When I attanded the SW Horticultural Trade Show recently, I found a flier on an annual educational conference sponsored by UA and others in Tucson from January 2-6, 2001. This annual gathering of educators, students and community members is focusing this year on the field of hydroponics. Check out additional information at http://ag.arizona.edu/science_alive/ Linda From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 22:17:46 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) From: dkrob6@earthlink.net dkrob6@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth -or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly appreciated and we thank you in advance. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 22:45:13 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:45:13 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have not grown grapes myself. I do have a publication written by Michael Kilby, Extension Specialist, Fruit and Nut Crops. For training grapes, he states: "FIRST YEAR: The main objective is to develop a root system, therefore, no pruning is necessary. Growers should not attempt to train vines as reserves in the roots are not great enough to support both vine and root development. During the dormant season the vine is cut back to the stongest best positioned one or two shoots." So, my understanding would be to leave the current growth and wait to prune in January. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dkrob6@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) > >We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our >ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. >Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before >it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know >if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in >length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth >-or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly >appreciated and we thank you in advance. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:07:04 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:07:04 GMT From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have had some success with loosening the existing soil, adding 4-6 inches of organic material (usually compost), and ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur per label directions. Mix all together very well, rake to smooth and remove clumps and rocks, and water. (Correct irrigation is critical here in the desert). If you want an organic garden, then substitute organic products for the ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur. The organic material can be anything that is available locally and is inexpensive, just make sure it is well composted. Others are growing in pure compost. You will probably get many different ideas! My two cents.... Linda Drew >From: orpha@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) > >If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would >it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that >is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. > >RP Wells _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 23 22:28:42 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:28:42 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnias - When to Spread Seeds This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now? One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. Thanks for any information anybody can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Is it OK = to spread zinnia seeds now?=A0 One packet = of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet = says that they should be spread in May. =A0=A0

 

Thanks = for any information anybody can give me.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 23:45:43 2000 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:45:43 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia - planting time --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula! According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November. You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months. The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds > says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; > another packet says that they should be spread in May. > > Thanks for any information anybody can give me. > > Ursula Miller > --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Ursula!
According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November.  You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months.  The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Ursula Miller wrote:

Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. 

Thanks for any information anybody can give me. 

Ursula Miller

--------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Mon Sep 25 16:55:40 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:55:40 -0700 (PDT) From: BOB RAMSEY ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees I have read your info regarding irrigation of citrus but it seems no matter how long I leave the water on, I cannot probe more than 20 in. 2hrs after completing irrigation. I have a large well out to the edge of the cannopy and use bubblers. I estimate that I apply about 3 gallons a minute and leave the bubblers on for 1 1/2 hrs. It takes up to 8 hrs for the well to drain dry. Am I just the victim of heavy clay soil and shoulg I do any thing about it? The trees look OK although the lemon tree is still recovering from a leaf drop last season. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Sep 25 17:22:27 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:22:27 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Hello, I have a question. My Jacaranda tree blooms twice per year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. Is this common? I've never noticed this happening on other Jacaranda trees in the neighborhood. This year the fall bloom was even showier than the spring bloom. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) From Mythreesunz@aol.com Mon Sep 25 17:54:51 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:54:51 -0700 (MST) From: Mythreesunz@aol.com Mythreesunz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We planted 2 Chinese Evergreen Elm trees the end of April 2000; in August a monsoon wind blew one of them partially over (we were out of town but a neighbor re-staked it. Two weeks later it dropped all of its leaves (our other tree didn't) and now it is growing new leaves. Did the stress of partially blowing over cause this? Also I need to know how & when to prune these trees, watering guidelines for the winter and fertilizing. We plant a winter lawn where these trees are and I am wondering how the watering and fertilizing of our winter lawn will affect these trees. Thank you for your response. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Mon Sep 25 18:44:41 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:41 -0700 From: Jim Bayers bayers@honors.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of corn. But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. Thanks in advance, - Jim From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Sep 25 21:21:28 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 14:21:28 -0700 From: Olin Miller millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Payson Area Garden Tour ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pauline Rodriguez" > > The High Country Garden Club will have a fall garden tour, September 30, from > 8:00 to 4:00, on Saturday, and Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 . There will be 6 > gardens, with refreshments and bath room accessibility, at the one in East > Verde Estates. Two have zeriscape landscaping, very well done, one > at Loins Spring road, that is 2 1/2 acres, that is a gardeners dream. Bob > Muggli has 20 different variety of grapes, 50 rose bushes, has built his > work shop of straw bales, many unique verities of cross bred fruit trees, > for instance, Aprim, which is 75% apricot and 25% plum. Many berries, a > Japanese garden in the making. > > The one that will take time to tour , is Joanne Chilcoat, on Flowing Springs > Road. Joanne has 5 Acres, with roses, pond, boulders, exotic pheasants, > burro, goats, more than I can describe. In fact, they are doing a shoot > tomorrow, for the COUNTRY GARDENER magazine, to be featured in an issue, > next year. She is one of five in the US, to be selected for this honor. . > Please direct any questions to Pauline at hawkeye@goodnet.com . Olin From papa-nannie@rkis.com Mon Sep 25 22:41:10 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:41:10 -0700 (MST) From: papa-nannie@rkis.com papa-nannie@rkis.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Will you please give me instructions for trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. also will a Money plant grow here? My sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told me to soak them before planting, but I can find no other info on them. thank you for your help, Nena Shelton From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:06 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:06 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees Bob, Is it possible that you have caliche at the level that the water won't penetrate ? If the property where your house is located was once farm land there could be a layer of hardpan at about the depth where the water is not penetrating caused by the irrigation water flushing the salts and chemicals below the root zone of their crops. The application of gypsum and or soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and allow better water penetration. This may take some time before you see a difference. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:03 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:03 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm care The stress caused by your tree blowing over probably caused the leaf drop. Do not prune your newly planted trees for two years except for dead or broken branches, it is best to leave as much foliage on the tree as possible to allow the tree to grow more rapidly and to increase the girth of the tree so that it can stand alone. The over seeding and fertilizing will not affect the tree adversely provided you deep water the tree periodically, in fact the tree should be deep watered year round, biweekly in the summer and monthly in the winter. If you just planted the bermuda grass seed or sod this year, Univ. of Arizona recommends that first year sod or seeded bermuda not be overseeded until next year. For irrigation information check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:02 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:02 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Alan, The Jacaranda usually has a heavy bloom in the spring with a few blooms ocasionally throughout the summer. You may have a species that will bloom twice a year, or it could be an oddity of nature that has caused your tree to have a heavy bloom in the fall. Do you live in the Phoenix area ? If so where did you buy the tree ? I would like to find out if this is a newly developed species. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From janal@juno.com Tue Sep 26 03:50:35 2000 Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:50:35 -0700 (MST) From: janal@juno.com janal@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Subject- Dead Flowers I have a slightly raised garden bed and planted Vinca a I always have in the past. These have done well in the summer. I planted Pansies last winter and these also did well. However, this summer the planting of vinca died for no apparent reason. We have a sprinkling system (drip) on a timer. At first the flowers looked stressed from what might have been a lack of water, then they dried up. Bought some more and these did the same thing. The Huneysuckle vine, rosemary and hergs, etc, in the general area are doing fine. Someone told me that putting the Pansies in and then Vinca causes something to happen to the soil. Isw this a fact? If so, what can I do to correct the problemlll, ie additives, etc. ?? Thanks you for your any help. Janice Wipf From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 13:49:56 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:49:56 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0-- From dbreiner@segalco.com Tue Sep 26 16:18:28 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:18:28 -0700 (MST) From: dbreiner@segalco.com dbreiner@segalco.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am planning on putting in a rose garden in my backyard in southern Scottsdale. The roses will be against the west wall so will get the morning sun from the east. They also are near an elm tree which will provide partial shade. My questions: which varieties of roses are best suited to this environment? which are the most fragrant? most beautiful? Thank you for your help. From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Tue Sep 26 18:36:25 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:36:25 -0700 (MST) From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM MADASMITH@AOL.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Is any one familiar with the area of 45th Ave and Olive? The city planted pine trees along the street area and the area is only about 3 feet wide. I would like to find out what kind of pine tree they are, that I guess they are not going to get real big. Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge. From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Tue Sep 26 18:52:41 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:52:41 -0700 (MST) From: Don Garnett dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: beetles on rosemary, salvia - a threat? We have a rosemary plant and two salvias, about one year old, southern exposure, a little shade provided by a palo verde, watered 1-2 times per week by drip. Lately the rosemary and salvias have been sporting numerous white, frothy tufts of liquid. Closer examination shows that the froth encases a small brown insect, about 3/8 inch long, shaped like a lady bug. One more was found on a branch of the palo verde which had been in direct contact with the rosemary. The plants look very healthy otherwise. Can anyone tell us what these insects are and if they pose a threat to our plantings? From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:01:10 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:01:10 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] SEPTIC TANK Ella: I'm sorry that you have not received a response to your honeysuckle question. I will see if I can find an answer for you and respond. Thank you for your patience. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 21:05:55 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:05:55 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM Subject: Fw:=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM
Subject: Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:34:31 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:34:31 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug: Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn. For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Douglas Anderson wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September > 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, > September 25, 2000 11:35 AM > I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with > perennial ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own > once the weather cools off? --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug:
Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn.  For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Douglas Anderson wrote:

 
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw:
  
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM
 I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools off?
--------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:58:46 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:58:46 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mums; Flowers for Planters A fellow Master Gardener recently wrote in our monthly newsletter that she keeps her mums in ceramic/clay pots [vs. plastic] in dappled shade during the summer and when the temps start to drop in the fall places them in full sun. She claims to have been rewarded consistently with fall blooms doing this. You don't mention the type of plants you want in your beds or exposure to sunlight. If you are interested in appropriate selection of annuals, check out our online flower publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener giza41@aol.com wrote: > what type of plants would be good for partial shade in my front lawn, I have a long border on each side of my sidewald of about 15 feet length and about a foot wide, and also I have mums planted in my front plantar form last year they havent bloomed since last winter-spring will they bloom soon or should I take them out they are also in partial shade. Thank you From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:00:32 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:00:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palm Care] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] What's the assessment on Doug's brown palm??? Linda --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailTS.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailTS.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 72762 invoked by uid 0); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: (qmail 76555 invoked from network); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: from motgate.mot.com (129.188.136.100) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: [from pobox3.mot.com (pobox3.mot.com [10.64.251.242]) by motgate.mot.com (motgate 2.1) with ESMTP id NAA07577 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:17 -0700 (MST)] Received: [from az33exi01.corp.mot.com (az33exi01.corp.mot.com [199.2.84.10]) by pobox3.mot.com (MOT-pobox3 2.0) with ESMTP id NAA17772 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:07:55 -0700 (MST)] Received: by az33exi01.corp.mot.com with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:16 -0700 Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:15 -0700 Message-ID: <87568F78ABDCD211A0AC0008C707718B02A4CE3A@az10exm03.sat.mot.com> From: "Geist Douglas-P11054" To: "'Linda Guy'" Subject: RE: Queen Palm Care MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thanks for the info, I read the article and have some follow on questions. Do you have a phone? I can talk faster than I can type (480-732-4803). The major problem I have is that the palm leaves on all my Queens (I have 5) are all turning brown (as opposed to yellow). I have them on a drip system that runs every 3 days for 1 1/2 hours (about 6 gals total), plus I deep water them every 2 weeks (summer schedule). I have put "palm food" on three time this summer. They are growing very slow. I have one palm that has yellow leaves coming out at the "bud" area and I suspected bud rot and put two applications of Bordeaux on in August. Need more applications? Any ideas? Thanks, Doug -----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:15 AM To: Doug.Geist Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: Queen Palm Care Apologies if I am duplicating someone else's response, but we've had a few queen palm questions in the last few days. We have an excellent palm publication which you can access online. Our list of publications is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you will find the palm pub under the ornamentals section. Queen palms are much fussier than some others in our soils and drying winds. Take a look at the crown for signs of rot, too, post monsoon season. If you have questions after you've read material, let us know. Linda Guy Master Gardener doug.geist@motorola.com wrote: > My Queen Palms are struggling. I would like to talk to someone about the care and feeding. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:23 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Here's another person's viewpoint on kalanchoes. I am aware that there are some people who grow kalanchoe outdoors, some of which have reseeded quite nicely. One server member offered her 'volunteers' free to whomever wanted to come and dig some last spring! But with about 200 species in this genus, it's hard to give only the most general of advice. Many of us are able to grow indoor plants in selected places outdoors, often the northern facade, as this person shares. Still, Sunset Western Garden's general assessment is that these are indoor plants. It seems that this respondent's view, like mine, is that the recent heat may be the culprit, and some additional water in this period of stress might be helpful. Thanks for your input, Jay! Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailKF.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailKF.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 10708 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: (qmail 12564 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from imo-r13.mx.aol.com (152.163.225.67) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from J082758@aol.com by imo-r13.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.15.) id 9.70.32224de (1782) for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:09 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:08 EDT Message-ID: <70.32224de.26f85674@aol.com> From: J082758@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Re: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hi! For your edification, I have several Kalanchoe growing outside (in pots) year-round. Mine are against a north wall. I have no problems with them EXCEPT in extremely hot weather such as we have been experiencing lately.They are doing fine when I water them a couple of times per week during this unseasonable weather. If I forget them they start to wilt on me. As you suggested, they do have excellent drainage. I live east of Mesa. At the present time mine are blooming. Sincerely, Jay --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:45 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:45 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Vanilla planifolia] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Thanks to all who helped Mickey out! --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmail8N.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmail8N.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 82775 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: (qmail 9989 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from smtp.ispchannel.com (HELO smtp2a.ispchannel.com) (24.142.63.7) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from q5l9x0 ([208.164.114.242]) by smtp2a.ispchannel.com (InterMail vK.4.02.00.00 201-232-116 license 7d3764cdaca754bf8ae20adf0db2aa60) with SMTP id <20000919171608.HUQV382.smtp2a@q5l9x0> for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:16:08 -0700 Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:12:55 -0700 Message-ID: <001301c0225c$dac43040$f272a4d0@lakehavasu.ispchannel.com> From: "Ron & Marian Liesen" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Vanilla planifolia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks to you and a marvelous person, Wilella Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid = Society I have two positive sites to order my vanilla planifolia. = Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant if I ever get to = the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total strange. The = internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. Mickey Liesen P.S. From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is the easy part of my hair-brained idea! ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks to you and a marvelous person, = Wilella=20 Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid Society I have two positive sites to order my = vanilla=20 planifolia.  Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant = if I ever=20 get to the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total = strange.  The=20 internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. =20 Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. =20 Mickey Liesen  P.S.  From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is=20 the easy part of my hair-brained idea!
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0-- --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:30 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:30 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm, Lemon and Orange Tree Problems [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm going to try to help you with some of your tree problems, but may not be able to do a good job on all of them. I do not recall hearing that termites would attack trees, but I suppose anything is possible. You will get good info from a few of our publications, that will help you identify if indeed you have termites, and which kinds. MC-39 Termites; MC-40 ID of Termites and Some Similar Winged Insects; MC 79 AZ Termites. Unfortunately, these are not online. Go to the following page of our webiste for instructions on ordering them http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Or ask your public library if they have a volume of the Home Horticulture pubs in the reference section, code 635. On the same page, if you go to the ornamentals section, you will see a hotlink to our palm care publication AZ 1021. It will give you plenty of insights as to what may have arisen with your queen palms, which are fussier than most other palms in the Phoenix climate. They are susceptible to bud rot, nematodes, root rot and iron chlorosis.Please read up in the section on diseases and other problem management [p.6] in an effort to identify your issues and save the remaining trees. Color of citrus fruit is not a reliable guide to a fruit's ripeness. It is often affected by the weather, which needs to get cold enough [our winters have been anything but lately] to change green fruit to its appropriate color. Green fruit can still become quite ripe. You might be interested in looking at a few of our citrus pubs on the same web page; some are available online. However, this wouldn't have been a reason for the tree to die. You haven't given enough information on the tree's age, your care practices, its exposure, etc. to help identify the source of its demise. If there was a 'smelly' condition, it was probably phytophthora foot rot http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/phytop.htm The fruit peel texture was probably citrus thrips whose damage is mostly cosmetic with the fruit itself remaining good http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm Again, taste is the only good indicator that the fruit is mature and, if it is not yet ripe, it needs to be left on the tree to do so. Did you wait long enough for your oranges? Did you pick at the appropriate time [see publication AZ 1001 in the citrus section]? If you tried to ripen the citrus anywhere but on the tree, your results would be as disappointing as you've indicated. If this isn't the case, I wonder if there wasn't something else that happened to cause the poor quality of your juicing oranges. Change in fertilization or watering practice? Overspray of some chemical? Linda Guy Master Gardener Deb6363@uswest.net wrote: > I have lost two queen palms to termites, or > thats what Iam told killed them. I have two > and dont want the same thing to happen. Is there > anything I can put on them to get rid of the > termite problem??? > > Also, My lemon treed died- I have no idea why > but in past years it would be loaded with lemons > in the right season then last year somehow it > started to get Limes!!! I was told it cross > pollinated with my orange and grapefruit trees. > Can this really happen? Now this year I have no > lemons or limes! > > Any while Iam on the tree role, 5 years ago one > of my orange trees got really great juicing > oranges and since they just get a rough bumpy/blubbly > type peel and are very sour. > > Any help you can give me would be greatly appriciated. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:05 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Soil for Yuccas [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I don't grow these plants, but our fellow Master Gardener who is the container plant guru recommends a soil mix for cactus and succulents of 2 parts pumice to one part potting soil. True, yuccas are in the lily family, but they often grow in conditions also conducive to succulents. You might want to read the relevant pages in the Sunset Western Garden Book, and Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, both of which are no doubt available in your public library. Periodic deep waterings are generally enough. Drainage is key.... if these containers are outdoors, get rid of the saucers! Don't let the plants sit in water. Linda Guy Master Gardener laurel_van_ruitenbeek@hotmail.com wrote: > What type of soil and in what proportions should be used to pot yucca plants? My father-in-law in the Phoenix area gave me several small clippings to bring home (Dallas area). I have had the clippings in water, and roots are starting to grow. Thanks for your help. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:48 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] SEPTIC TANK Plantings [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes! Linda Guy Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:03:02 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:03:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm interested in hearing feedback on last Wednesday's Republic garden blurb on controlling pearl scale. I've never been happy with our site's limited recommendation that little can be done. I guess I want to give folks something to do! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm A gentleman wrote from Scottsdale with advice received from Harper's to wit regular treatment with Merit [what sort of insecticide is this and/or its active ingredients?] to at least manage the scale population and application of a water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. Lowering the soil pH makes the scale's habitat less hospitable since it prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job, but rather kept the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from spreading. What say you folks who've fought the good fight? Any other treatment suggestions? Linda Guy Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:14:35 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:14:35 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replanting Ryegrass Douglas, If you want green grass this winter you will need to replant the ryegrass this fall. Perenial rye is a cool season grass and cannot handle the high temperatures in the low desert consequently it dies out in April or May and allows the Bermuda to florish. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From dickcarmi@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:47:33 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:47:33 -0700 (MST) From: dickcarmi@aol.com dickcarmi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you. From c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com Wed Sep 27 00:32:27 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:32:27 -0700 From: Charlie Thomas c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscubscribe From kelarsen@primenet.com Wed Sep 27 03:05:58 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:05:58 -0700 (MST) From: kelarsen@primenet.com kelarsen@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Wed Sep 27 04:39:51 2000 Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:39:51 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page The Western Garden Book says that the jade plant is OK for zones 12-24, which includes us in the Valley. But my healthy, large jade plant took a nosedive once the temperatures moved to and stayed in the 100's. The 'leaves' burned. It eventually died. But all my Elephant's Food (Portulacaria Afra) plants do very well all year long and need little water. They look like a jade plant but grow faster. They supposedly grow 12 ft tall, though mine spread wide instead - kind of overflowing the pots which looks nice. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of kelarsen@primenet.com Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:06 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dg.anderson@home.com Wed Sep 27 12:59:22 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 05:59:22 -0700 From: Douglas Anderson dg.anderson@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in with perennial rye grass this fall? ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in = with perennial=20 rye grass this fall?
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0-- From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:25:32 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:27:06 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:27:06 -0700 (MST) From: cambpd@cs.com cambpd@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too big I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:27 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:27 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree recommendation Since the Carob tree is quite susceptible to Texas Root Rot I would suspect that TRR killed your Carob and especially if it died quite suddenly and the leaves stayed on the tree. The only trees that are immune to TRR are Palms and bamboo. Most of the desert adapted trees such as mesquite and palo verde are resistant to TRR. Even so if you intend to plant in the same location as the Carob I would suggest that you treat the soil first with a chemical such as Vapam. Directions, information, and a list of trees that are resistant to TRR are available in Cooperative Extension bulletin 8734 from U. of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a charge of $1.00, or most public libraries will have this in the referance section. The Tipu tree is listed as being deciduous or simi deciduous which means it will probably lose its leaves in winter in the Phoenix area. My preferance would be a thornless mesquite, if it is irrigated properly and the crown thinned to cut down wind resistance it will stay upright. The only negative is the seed pod drop. Why not visit Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale where you can see many different varieties of trees that do well in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:33 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:33 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control Hi Linda, I'll pass on the info that I have about the use of Merit to control pearl scale. Since Merit is not registered for use on pearl scale, U.of A. staff and Master Gardeners are not allowed to recommend the use of Merit to control pearl scale. I have heard that some landscapers are using Merit with some sucess. I didn't see the article in the Republic so I cannot comment. Merit is however registered for use on grubs I'm told. Good luck and keep up the good work. Rod From molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 28 00:06:06 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:06:06 -0700 From: Mary Olsen molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page At 01:25 PM 9/27/00 -0700, you wrote: >I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. Could you send me some specifics about the symptoms on your carob tree? How fast did it die and how old is the tree? Also, could you describe the fungus that was on the ground around the tree? Was it a low white mat, shelf-like or bulbous shaped growths at the base, or golden brown growths at the base? Did it smell like a mushroom? Was it attached to the tree or roots? Thanks for the information - Mary Olsen, Extension Specialist in Plant Pathology Dr. Mary Olsen Associate Extension Specialist Dept. of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204 University of Arizona Tucson, AZ 85721 phone 520-626-2681 email molsen@ag.arizona.edu From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 04:19:48 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:19:48 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turfgrass information This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0" ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable More information to help your thinking process on turfgrass plans. ------------------------ "Oh For The Green Green Grass of Home=85=85=85=85" 6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener =96 Research Agronomist =96 Seed = Research of Oregon Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn "back = home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead of = the gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with your = new home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you=92ve decided = you would like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may = have bought an older, flood irrigated home with an already existing = large lawn area and want to reduce your work load, or you have one of = those silly (AKA "stupid") little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front = yard that needs constant maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for = a play area because it=92s too small =96 these can easily be redesigned = and renovated. You could spend months trying to decipher all the = conflicting information and opinions on lawn and turf areas for this = area. Comments you may have heard include: "Lawns & turf are the biggest = water waster, and certainly are not native to the desert" OR "A properly = maintained lawn can cool a house, reducing overall water and electric = use" OR "Water=92s cheap in the desert, so why worry?" OR "After all, = you still see those older flood irrigated yards with acres of turf and = the golf courses seem to water their grass every day" OR even "Lawns are = the major source of allergy causing pollen in this area". Are you now = more confused than ever? What to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What = Do I Do? Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or = "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other nations = (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for more history and details). As people moved West and = Southwest to the deserts, to enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit = came along. Having a lawn or not is a very personal decision based on = your own values, leisure time, esthetics, budget, etc. so I won=92t say = here whether you should grow grass in the desert or not =96 I will = however give you some basic background and suggestions that may help = reduce the mystery and misinformation, ultimately helping you to = formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right lawn in the = right manner. Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly designed, = properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a place in many = desert dwellers=92 homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas for = children and pets or even entertaining adults, they do actually cool a = house and yard which does reduce total water and electric use for the = household, and they can be esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintained = at the proper height, they will not bloom or spread pollen =96 in fact, = turf areas are excellent for filtering the air of many other airborne = pollutants and irritants. Planned properly, planted properly and = maintained properly, a turf area is actually a smart item for most = property owners. If these steps are not thought out and carried through = correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly planted and poorly = maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will certainly live up to = all the anti-turf comments you have heard. Read through the following = information as you plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting. Before you plant, PLAN PROPERLY =96 1) SIZE - discuss with your spouse = and kids how much lawn they need or want for play use and how large an = area are you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple research = to learn about the correct type of lawngrass for your situation (full = sun or shaded, high or low level of play use, more use planned for = summer or winter seasons, what level of lawn care and budget do you = want, etc.?) =96 we have only a very limited selection of grasses to = choose from in the low desert due to our winter to summer temperature = extremes, so choose correctly =96 keep in mind that just because its = offered for sale at your local garden center, it is not necessarily = appropriate for your climate and the grass variety or kind you grew in = your yard "back home" is most likely not adapted to our climate, 3) = LOCATION =96 do you really want a turf area in your tiny front yard = where the children are not allowed to play due to traffic, or should it = be in your backyard where it can be used and enjoyed by the entire = family =96 grass is a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get = the best sun exposure, 4) WATER =96 investigate and plan a good = automatic irrigation system to make your lawn a lot happier and a lot = healthier, plus to reduce waste of this precious commodity =96 look on = the expense of a good lawn irrigation system as an investment, not a = cost =96 a properly watered & maintained lawn, planted to the correct = turf species does not have to be a water waster, as many turfgrass = species such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought = tolerance. Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY =96 as with any perennial garden = planting, your soil preparation and planting process will have an = enormous impact on the long term health and success of your lawn. Good = detailed information on lawn preparation and planting is available from = local lawn seed or sod suppliers, as well as the University of Arizona = and your local Extension office. Bottom line, prepare the soil well =96 = don=92t just throw the grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect = it to thrive. A poorly prepared lawn soil will mean long or short term = failure and will certainly cause you to waste water in trying to keep = your struggling turf alive. Last and just as important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY =96 think of your = turfgrass plants as if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If = you don=92t maintain them well, they will be more susceptible to stress = from temperature extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will require = larger inputs of chemicals, water, time and energy just to stay alive. = As the weather changes, check with your local water company or in the = gardening section of the newspaper for correct water amounts for the = various times of the year. Remember again that your lawn is a group of = garden plants =96 you certainly don=92t water your trees, flowers or = vegetables the same amount all year. AND, please don=92t copy your = neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, merely assuming they know = what is best for your yard also. Just because a nearby homeowner waters = his lawn at midnight twice a week, or the local golf course waters their = fairways every morning for 20 minutes or your local school or park mows = twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean that you = should do the same =96 you surely don=92t butcher your old mulberry = trees, just because that guy at the end of the block does it every year? = Correct turfgrass maintenance (mowing, fertilizing, watering, = overseeding, etc.) differs drastically from site to site depending on = the soil type, the mowing height, sun exposure, amount of use or play, = the grass variety or kind planted, disease and insect pests present, and = many other factors. Read the materials provided by your local garden = center or Extension office, take a class in turfgrass maintenance at = your local college or even attend the desert turfgrass session planned = for the upcoming Low Desert Gardening Conference in late July. Since you = are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn as a = grouping or planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them as = such, rather than as The Great Mystery. Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it will = enjoy being yours for many years to come. ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
More information to help your = thinking process=20 on turfgrass plans.
 
 
------------------------

"Oh For The Green Green Grass of=20 Home…………"

 

6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener – Research Agronomist = – Seed=20 Research of Oregon

Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn = "back=20 home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead = of the=20 gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with = your new=20 home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you’ve decided = you would=20 like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may have = bought an=20 older, flood irrigated home with an already existing large lawn area and = want to=20 reduce your work load, or you have one of those silly (AKA = "stupid")=20 little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front yard that needs constant=20 maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for a play area because = it’s=20 too small – these can easily be redesigned and renovated. You = could spend=20 months trying to decipher all the conflicting information and opinions = on lawn=20 and turf areas for this area. Comments you may have heard include: = "Lawns=20 & turf are the biggest water waster, and certainly are not native to = the=20 desert" OR "A properly maintained lawn can cool a house, = reducing=20 overall water and electric use" OR "Water’s cheap in the = desert,=20 so why worry?" OR "After all, you still see those older flood=20 irrigated yards with acres of turf and the golf courses seem to water = their=20 grass every day" OR even "Lawns are the major source of = allergy=20 causing pollen in this area". Are you now more confused than = ever? What=20 to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What Do I Do?

 

Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or=20 "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other = nations=20 (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for=20 more history and details). As people moved West and Southwest to the = deserts, to=20 enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit came along. Having a lawn or = not is a=20 very personal decision based on your own values, leisure time, = esthetics,=20 budget, etc. so I won’t say here whether you should grow grass in = the=20 desert or not – I will however give you some basic background and=20 suggestions that may help reduce the mystery and misinformation, = ultimately=20 helping you to formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right = lawn in=20 the right manner.

Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly = designed, properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a = place in=20 many desert dwellers’ homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas = for=20 children and pets or even entertaining adults, they do actually cool a = house and=20 yard which does reduce total water and electric use for the household, = and they=20 can be esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintained at the proper height, = they=20 will not bloom or spread pollen – in fact, turf areas are = excellent for=20 filtering the air of many other airborne pollutants and irritants. = Planned=20 properly, planted properly and maintained properly, a turf area is = actually a=20 smart item for most property owners. If these steps are not thought out = and=20 carried through correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly = planted and=20 poorly maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will certainly = live up to=20 all the anti-turf comments you have heard. Read through the following=20 information as you plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting.

Before you plant, PLAN PROPERLY – 1) SIZE - discuss with your = spouse=20 and kids how much lawn they need or want for play use and how large an = area are=20 you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple research to learn = about=20 the correct type of lawngrass for your situation (full sun or shaded, = high or=20 low level of play use, more use planned for summer or winter seasons, = what level=20 of lawn care and budget do you want, etc.?) – we have only a very = limited=20 selection of grasses to choose from in the low desert due to our winter = to=20 summer temperature extremes, so choose correctly – keep in mind = that just=20 because its offered for sale at your local garden center, it is not = necessarily=20 appropriate for your climate and the grass variety or kind you grew in = your yard=20 "back home" is most likely not adapted to our climate, 3) = LOCATION=20 – do you really want a turf area in your tiny front yard where the = children are not allowed to play due to traffic, or should it be in your = backyard where it can be used and enjoyed by the entire family – = grass is=20 a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get the best sun = exposure, 4)=20 WATER – investigate and plan a good automatic irrigation system to = make=20 your lawn a lot happier and a lot healthier, plus to reduce waste of = this=20 precious commodity – look on the expense of a good lawn irrigation = system=20 as an investment, not a cost – a properly watered & maintained = lawn,=20 planted to the correct turf species does not have to be a water waster, = as many=20 turfgrass species such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought = tolerance.

Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY – as with any perennial = garden=20 planting, your soil preparation and planting process will have an = enormous=20 impact on the long term health and success of your lawn. Good detailed=20 information on lawn preparation and planting is available from local = lawn seed=20 or sod suppliers, as well as the University of Arizona and your local = Extension=20 office. Bottom line, prepare the soil well – don’t just = throw the=20 grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect it to thrive. A poorly = prepared=20 lawn soil will mean long or short term failure and will certainly cause = you to=20 waste water in trying to keep your struggling turf alive.

Last and just as important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY – think of your = turfgrass=20 plants as if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If you = don’t=20 maintain them well, they will be more susceptible to stress from = temperature=20 extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will require larger inputs of = chemicals,=20 water, time and energy just to stay alive. As the weather changes, check = with=20 your local water company or in the gardening section of the newspaper = for=20 correct water amounts for the various times of the year. Remember again = that=20 your lawn is a group of garden plants – you certainly don’t = water=20 your trees, flowers or vegetables the same amount all year. AND, please=20 don’t copy your neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, = merely=20 assuming they know what is best for your yard also. Just because a = nearby=20 homeowner waters his lawn at midnight twice a week, or the local golf = course=20 waters their fairways every morning for 20 minutes or your local school = or park=20 mows twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean that you = should=20 do the same – you surely don’t butcher your old mulberry = trees, just=20 because that guy at the end of the block does it every year? Correct = turfgrass=20 maintenance (mowing, fertilizing, watering, overseeding, etc.) differs=20 drastically from site to site depending on the soil type, the mowing = height, sun=20 exposure, amount of use or play, the grass variety or kind planted, = disease and=20 insect pests present, and many other factors. Read the materials = provided by=20 your local garden center or Extension office, take a class in turfgrass=20 maintenance at your local college or even attend the desert turfgrass = session=20 planned for the upcoming Low Desert Gardening Conference in late July. = Since you=20 are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn as a = grouping or=20 planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them as such, rather = than as=20 The Great Mystery.

Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it will = enjoy=20 being yours for many years to come.

 

------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0-- ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0 Content-Type: application/msword; name="6-99 MG turf article.rtf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="6-99 MG turf article.rtf" {\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\uc1 = \deff0\deflang1033\deflangfe1033{\fonttbl{\f0\froman\fcharset0\fprq2{\*\p= anose 02020603050405020304}Times New = Roman;}}{\colortbl;\red0\green0\blue0;\red0\green0\blue255;\red0\green255= \blue255;\red0\green255\blue0; \red255\green0\blue255;\red255\green0\blue0;\red255\green255\blue0;\red25= 5\green255\blue255;\red0\green0\blue128;\red0\green128\blue128;\red0\gree= n128\blue0;\red128\green0\blue128;\red128\green0\blue0;\red128\green128\b= lue0;\red128\green128\blue128; \red192\green192\blue192;}{\stylesheet{\widctlpar\adjustright = \fs20\cgrid \snext0 = Normal;}{\s1\keepn\widctlpar\outlinelevel0\adjustright \fs28\cgrid = \sbasedon0 \snext0 heading 1;}{\*\cs10 \additive Default Paragraph = Font;}{\s15\widctlpar\adjustright=20 \cgrid \sbasedon0 \snext15 Body Text;}}{\info{\title Ethan = Frome}{\author EW/LN/CB}{\keywords Ethan}{\operator = RSI}{\creatim\yr2000\mo9\dy26\hr10\min37}{\revtim\yr2000\mo9\dy26\hr10\mi= n37}{\printim\yr1999\mo6\dy3\hr16\min59}{\version2}{\edmins1} {\nofpages2}{\nofwords1108}{\nofchars6316}{\*\company SEED = RESEARCH}{\nofcharsws0}{\vern113}}\margl1440\margr1440 = \widowctrl\ftnbj\aenddoc\hyphcaps0\formshade\viewkind1\viewscale90\pgbrdr= head\pgbrdrfoot \fet0\sectd=20 \linex0\headery0\footery0\endnhere\sectdefaultcl = {\*\pnseclvl1\pnucrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl2\pnucltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl3\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl4 \pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl5\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (}{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl6\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (}{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl7\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (} {\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl8\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb = (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl9\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb = (}{\pntxta )}}\pard\plain \s1\keepn\widctlpar\outlinelevel0\adjustright = \fs28\cgrid {\b\i\fs24 \ldblquote=20 Oh For The Green Green Grass of Home\'85\'85\'85\'85\rdblquote=20 \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24 6/99 by Mike = Hills, Master Gardener \endash Research Agronomist \endash Seed = Research of Oregon \par=20 \par Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn = \ldblquote back home\rdblquote ? Do you think you would rather have a = nice lawn area, instead of the gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad = \ldblquote zeroscape\rdblquote=20 that came with your new home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, = but you\rquote ve decided you would like a lawn in your yard, aft er all? On the flip side, you may have bought an older, flood irrigated = home with an already existing large lawn area and want to reduce your = work load, or you have one of those silly (AKA \ldblquote = stupid\rdblquote=20 ) little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front yard that needs constant = maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for a play area because = it\rquote s too small \endash=20 these can easily be redesigned and renovated. You could spend months = trying to decipher all the conflicting information and opinions on lawn = and turf areas for this area. Comments you may have heard include: = \ldblquote=20 Lawns & turf are the biggest water waster, and certainly are not native = to the desert\rdblquote OR \ldblquote A properly maintained lawn can = cool a house, reducing overall water and electric use\rdblquote OR = \ldblquote Water\rquote s cheap in the desert, so why worry?\rdblquote OR \ldblquote After all, you = still see those older flood irrigated yards with acres of turf and the = golf courses seem to water their grass every day\rdblquote OR even = \ldblquote=20 Lawns are the major source of allergy causing pollen in this = area\rdblquote . Are you now more confused than ever?}{\i\fs24 What = to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What Do I Do?}{\fs24=20 \par=20 \par Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or = \ldblquote addiction\rdblquote if you prefer), when we compare = ourselves to other nations (see the excellent artic le in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian magazine for more history and = details). As people moved West and Southwest to the deserts, to enjoy = the sun and warmth, this turf habit came along. Having a lawn or not is = a very personal decision based on you r own values, leisure time, esthetics, budget, etc. so I won\rquote t = say here whether you should grow grass in the desert or not \endash=20 I will however give you some basic background and suggestions that may = help reduce the mystery and misinformation, ultimately helping you to = formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right lawn in the = right manner. \par=20 \par Even the \ldblquote anti-turf enthusiasts\rdblquote will admit = that a properly designed, properly placed, properly maintained turf area = does have a place in many desert dwellers\rquote home s. Turf areas make excellent play areas for children and pets or even = entertaining adults, they do actually cool a house and yard which does = reduce total water and electric use for the household, and they can be = esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintain ed at the proper height, they will not bloom or spread pollen \endash = in fact, turf areas are excellent for filtering the air of many other = airborne pollutants and irritants. }{\fs24\ul Planned properly}{\fs24 , = }{\fs24\ul planted properly}{\fs24 and } {\fs24\ul maintained properly}{\fs24 , a turf area is actually a s mart item for most property owners. If these steps are not thought out = and carried through correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly = planted and poorly maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will = certainly live up to all the anti-turf=20 comments you have heard. Read through the following information as you = plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting. \par=20 \par }\pard\plain \s15\widctlpar\adjustright \cgrid {Before you plant, = PLAN PROPERLY \endash 1) SIZE - discuss with your spouse and kids how = much lawn they need or want for play use and how large=20 an area are you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple = research to learn about the correct type of lawngrass for your situation = (full sun or shaded, high or low level of play use, more use planned for = summer or winter seasons, what level of la wn care and budget do you want, etc.?) \endash we have only a very = limited selection of grasses to choose from in the low desert due to our = winter to summer temperature extremes, so choose correctly \endash=20 keep in mind that just because its offered for sale at your local = garden center, it is not necessarily appropriate for your climate and = the grass variety or kind you grew in your yard \ldblquote back = home\rdblquote is most likely }{\ul not adapted}{ to our climate}{\ul ,}{ 3) LOCATION \endash do you really want a turf = area in your tiny front yard where the children are not allowed to play = due to traffic, or should it be in your backyard where it can be used = and enjoyed by the entire family=20 \endash grass is a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get = the best sun exposure, 4) WATER \endash investigate and plan a good automatic irrigation system to make your lawn a lot happier and = a lot healthier, plus to reduce waste of this precious commodity \endash = look on the expense of a good lawn irrigation system as an investment, = not a cost \endash=20 a properly watered & maintained lawn, planted to the correct turf = species does not have to be a water waster, as many turfgrass species = such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought tolerance. \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24=20 \par Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY \endash as with any perennial = garden planting, your soi l preparation and planting process will have an enormous impact on the = long term health and success of your lawn. Good detailed information on = lawn preparation and planting is available from local lawn seed or sod = suppliers, as well as the University of=20 Arizona and your local Extension office. Bottom line, }{\fs24\ul = prepare the soil well}{\fs24 \endash don\rquote=20 t just throw the grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect it to = thrive. A poorly prepared lawn soil will mean long or short term = failure and will certainly cause you to waste water in trying to keep = your struggling turf alive. \par=20 \par }\pard\plain \s15\widctlpar\adjustright \cgrid {Last and just as = important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY \endash think of your turfgrass plants as = if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If you don\rquote=20 t maintain them well, they will be more susceptible=20 to stress from temperature extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will = require larger inputs of chemicals, water, time and energy just to stay = alive. As the weather changes, check with your local water company or = in the gardening section of the newspaper f or correct water amounts for the various times of the year. Remember = again that your lawn is a group of garden plants \endash you certainly = don\rquote t water your trees, flowers or vegetables the same amount all = year. AND, please don\rquote=20 t copy your neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, merely assuming they know what is best for your = yard also. Just because a nearby homeowner waters his lawn at midnight = twice a week, or the local golf course waters their fairways every = morning for 20 minutes or your local school=20 or park mows twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean = that you should do the same \endash you surely don\rquote=20 t butcher your old mulberry trees, just because that guy at the end of = the block does it every year? Correct turfgrass maintenance (mowing,=20 fertilizing, watering, overseeding, etc.) differs drastically from site = to site depending on the soil type, the mowing height, sun exposure, = amount of use or play, the grass variety or kind planted, disease and = insect pests present, and many other factors . Read the materials provided by your local garden center or Extension = office, take a class in turfgrass maintenance at your local college or = even attend the desert turfgrass session planned for the upcoming Low = Desert Gardening Conference in late July. =20 Since you are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn = as a grouping or planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them = as such, rather than as The Great Mystery. \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24=20 \par Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it = will enjoy being yours for many years to come. \par }} ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0-- From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 04:52:46 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:52:46 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ryegrass Lawn This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Doug - No, in most cases "Perennial Ryegrass" seed does not come = back the second winter. Even though the word "perennial" means = permanent or regrowing each year, it must be replanted each Fall in the = southern bermudagrass zone. In areas where perennial ryegrass is used = as a permanent base grass (the Midwest and Northeast USA) this is a = permanent grass that continues to grow each year. But in the southern = bermudagrass belt, the ryegrass usually cannot stand up to our 115 = degrees with summer humidtiy. Most of the ryegrass plants die out each = summer, which is actually good since it allows the base bermudagrass to = regrow and create a strong sod for better wear tolerance. A = scattering of ryegrass plants may make it through the heat and humidity, = especially any plants that are shaded or in better drained soil. Otherwise, let your bermuda base keep growing happy and healthy until = sometime between mid-October and mid-November. As the day temperatures = hit 90 and start staying 90 or below, it is time to plant your winter = lawn. Mow the bermuda as short as you can, removing the clippings = this time. Scatter Perennial Ryegrass seed at 10-15 pounds per 1,000 = square feet and lightly topdress it with mulch (maximum 1/4 inch deep). = There are many different varieties and branded blends of perennial = ryegrass that are available in local garden centers and nurseries - as = long as the label says "Perennial Ryegrass" then they all perform very = similarly in this area. Be sure that you do not buy "Annual = Ryegrass" seed as this can be a messy, high maintenance grass all winter = long - grows too fast and lush, requiring a lot more mowing and the = cuttings are wet and messy, staining clothes, sidewalks, walls, etc. = Perennial Ryegrass seed is far superior in color, texture, wear = tolerance, mowability, etc. Good Luck Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County ---------------- -----Original Message----- From: Douglas Anderson To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: =20 =20 =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 A Subject: Fw:=20 =20 =20 =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM =20 =20 I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Doug  -  No, in most = cases=20 "Perennial Ryegrass" seed does not come back the second=20 winter.    Even though the word "perennial" = means=20 permanent or regrowing each year, it must be replanted each Fall in the = southern=20 bermudagrass zone.    In areas where perennial ryegrass = is used=20 as a permanent base grass (the Midwest and Northeast USA) this is a = permanent=20 grass that continues to grow each year.    But in the = southern=20 bermudagrass belt, the ryegrass usually cannot stand up to our 115 = degrees with=20 summer humidtiy.   Most of the ryegrass plants die out each = summer,=20 which is actually good since it allows the base bermudagrass to regrow = and=20 create a strong sod for better wear tolerance.     A = scattering of ryegrass plants may make it through the heat and humidity, = especially any plants that are shaded or in better drained = soil.
 
Otherwise, let your bermuda base keep growing happy = and=20 healthy until sometime between mid-October and mid-November.   = As the=20 day temperatures hit 90 and start staying 90 or below, it is time to = plant your=20 winter lawn.     Mow the bermuda as short as you = can,=20 removing the clippings this time.    Scatter Perennial = Ryegrass=20 seed at 10-15 pounds per 1,000 square feet and lightly topdress it with = mulch=20 (maximum 1/4 inch deep).     There are many = different=20 varieties and branded blends of perennial ryegrass that are available in = local=20 garden centers and nurseries - as long as the label says "Perennial = Ryegrass" then they all perform very similarly in this=20 area.     Be sure that you do not buy "Annual=20 Ryegrass" seed as this can be a messy, high maintenance grass all = winter=20 long - grows too fast and lush, requiring a lot more mowing and the = cuttings are=20 wet and messy, staining clothes, sidewalks, walls, = etc.   =20 Perennial Ryegrass seed is far superior in color, texture, wear = tolerance,=20 mowability, etc.
 
Good Luck
Mike Hills
Master Gardener, Maricopa County
----------------
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Douglas Anderson <dg.anderson@home.com>
T= o:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:38 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: = Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 A
Subject: Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: = Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the = first time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its = own=20 once the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0-- From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 05:24:58 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:24:58 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Lavender & Ants Dear Debbie - one question for you - where are you located? This could make a difference in the suggestions and response. If you are in the Desert Southwest, then the lavender probably died from a root rot problem which is a very common cause of death to lavender plants in our part of the world in the summer. Lavenders need excellent drainage and our southwestern soils tend to be fairly high in clay which drains poorly. It is possible that the ants may have disturbed the roots and made them more susceptible to summer root rot, but usually ants do not harm plants such as an established lavender plant. Wait until October or November to replant your new lavender. First though, be sure that you dig a deep hole, much larger than the potted plant that you buy from the garden center. The Desert Botanical Garden has an upcoming plant sale that is an excellent source of herb plants and also has a booth from the Arizona Herb Association to answer questions and give advice. Backfill the hole with coarse bark, pebbles, sand, etc. and then your planting mix and plant the new lavender plant. DO NOT leave a hole in the soil around the base of the lavender pkant, as this collects too much water and moisture around the stem, which can lead to another death by root rot. In fact, the lavender plants tend to do better planted on a slight rise, with an irrigation dripper several inches away from the plant's main stem Check out the recommended books section of our University of Arizona, Maricopa County Master Gardener website - we have several basic books listed that include excellent information on growing herbs in the low desert climate. Good Luck, Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: MADASMITH@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 8:55 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I HAD A BEAUTIFUL LAVENDER THAT WAS QUITE LARGE AND DOING WONDERFUL, ALL OF A SUDDEN IT DIED IN A TOTAL OF THREE DAYS. WHEN I DUG IT UP THE SOIL SURRONDING IT UNDERGROUND WAS COVERED BY RED ANTS. COULD THE ANTS HAVE KILLED IT AND SHOULD I BE WORRIED THAT THEY WILL KILL MY OTHER PLANTS. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR TIME.DEBBIE SMITH > > From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 05:32:16 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 22:32:16 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Santa Ana Bermuda & Allergies Santa Ana is a hybrid bermudagrass variety that does not produce pollen in those bermuda flowers that you see, and does not produce seed. With no pollen, your allergic reaction to bermuda pollen will not happen on your Santa Ana lawn. But, a person allergic to bermuda can still react to the proteins in the bermudagrass stems, so it is not recommended that you sit bare legged on freshly cut bermuda. Keep the bermuda happy with adequate water and fertilizer levels and it will bloom less. Also, generally keeping it mowed once a week will keep the bermuda from blossoming as much. Santa Ana grows best when mowed with a reel mower, but a rotary mower can be used. The rotary mower just does not cut this close growing bermuda quite as well as a reel mower will. In general reel mowers are more expensive, but if your lawn area is small and you are looking to burn a few calories, then buy a good old fashioned Push Mower (reel). Does an excellent job on Santa Ana and other hybrid, sod-type bermuda varieties. Good Luck, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Turfgrass Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: georgerandle@netzero.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 7:58 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Is Santa Ana grass truly non-allergenic? Mine gets some seed tops on it. Also does it require a rotary (front throw) mower? > > From kgner@extremezone.com Thu Sep 28 15:51:21 2000 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 08:51:21 -0700 (MST) From: kgner@extremezone.com kgner@extremezone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I planted a 24"box shamel ash tree in May. It has maintained it's health during the summer, but has barely grown. I've noticed some new buds on the branches and wondered if I should give it some fertilizer. I have only given it B12 so far. It is the "uedi" variety. I have asked various sources about this and have gotten conflicting information from each source. I'd appreciate your help. Thanks. From danopato@mindspring.com Thu Sep 28 21:59:49 2000 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 14:59:49 -0700 (MST) From: danopato@mindspring.com danopato@mindspring.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How to get rid of Caterpiller's from eating up a Purple Passion Plant without damage to plant? From alague628@aol.com Thu Sep 28 23:58:03 2000 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 16:58:03 -0700 (MST) From: alague628@aol.com alague628@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Prescott. Our seven? foot apricot tree has areas on the bark of the trunk that are splitting and oozing. What is this? What should/can we do about it? Will the tree survive? We had wonderful fruit this summer and we hope we can successfully treat this problem. Thanks, a From clydic@netzone.com Fri Sep 29 00:37:36 2000 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 17:37:36 -0700 From: Carol Lydic clydic@netzone.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Contact Jeff Schalau, Yavapai Co Ext Agent, there in Prescott at 445-6590. He's a good tree man. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of alague628@aol.com Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 4:58 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Prescott. Our seven? foot apricot tree has areas on the bark of the trunk that are splitting and oozing. What is this? What should/can we do about it? Will the tree survive? We had wonderful fruit this summer and we hope we can successfully treat this problem. Thanks, a _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 29 00:50:34 2000 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 20:50:34 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash, newly planted not showing growth Newly planted trees planted in hot weather especially non native trees will rarely show much growth until they become established. The fact that you are seeing new buds and the tree looks healthy is certainly encouraging. I would not be too concerned at this point. Many factors affect the growth of a tree, but proper irigation will affect more than anything else. I would wait until next spring to apply fertilizer, then be sure that the nitrogen content of the fertilizer is moderate. Check out these websites on irrigation and tree care: Irrigation http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Arborculture and tree care http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:20:39 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:20:39 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine Like the proverbial moth to a flame, these caterpillars [gulf fritillary butterfly according to Sunset] will return year after year. This is their favorite food, and I speak from personal experience. Be on the look out each year for the first sign of invasion and regularly use a biological control specific for caterpillars called Bt [bacillus thurengensis, but don't quote my spelling!]. Follow application instructions on the particular product you select. Some passifloras are deciduous, so if the leaves begin to brown and fall this autumn, wait until next spring to see if new growth returns anew. I used to cut my vines down to a foot following Halloween [liked the spooky effect of all the dead vines hanging on my house!]. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener danopato@mindspring.com wrote: > How to get rid of Caterpiller's from eating up a Purple Passion Plant without damage to plant? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:25:06 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:25:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to all of you who provided your insights. Mike Hills' response is so good I believe that all of you would probably be evenly moderately interested! At least we have some additional ideas for identification, as well as treatment. --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 86242 invoked by uid 0); 28 Sep 2000 07:15:12 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Sep 2000 07:15:12 -0000 Received: (qmail 57770 invoked from network); 28 Sep 2000 07:15:11 -0000 Received: from cpimssmtpu01.email.msn.com (HELO smtp.email.msn.com) (207.46.181.26) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Sep 2000 07:15:11 -0000 Received: from mhills - 209.83.1.10 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:13:10 -0700 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:07:20 -0700 Message-ID: <023d01c0291c$f7c85ba0$a009a8c0@mhills> From: "Mike Hills" To: "Linda Guy" Reply-To: "Mike Hills" Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda - have you seen the article below? Maybe this is already in your files? In reality, Pearl Scale is not anywhere near the problem that most people think it is. Usually a lawn thinning out is caused by many many other things first, and pearl scale is a handy bogeyman to lay the blame on. My understanding on Merit is that it may actually not be available to public - instead I belive it is a commercial professional only product. I have only seen pearl scale a very few times, and I think that Sharon Dewey has said the same thing repeatedly. I would suggest that you direct your question to both Terry Mikel and Dr. Dave Langston at Maricopa Agricultural Center (langston@ag.arizona.edu), as well as Dr. Dave Kopec at the UofA Karsten Turfgrass Research Center in Tucson (DKopec@ag.arizona.edu) for more specific answers to be used in hhomeowner situations. Terry played with Pearl Scale for many years at the Extension office - in fact, his pearl scale "nursery" was the old Midiron Bermuda sodded area where Cathy Cromell now has her Bulb Demo Garden. Truth usually is that seeded bermuda varieties are more tolerant of Pearl Scale and seem to outgrow it as they are more vigorous growers - keep the grass un-stressed and it can tolerate a Pearl Scale infestation. Even the hybrid sod bermudas can tolerate most levels of Pearl Scale as long as the other care and maintenance factors in the lawn are up-to-speed and the grass is kept as healthy as possible. As with most plants, keep it healthy and it can tolerate a little problem and stay alive. Hope this is a little helpful??? mike hills ---------------------- PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Pearl Scale information: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC45, write to 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video Write: Sharon Dewey, Western Sod, P.O. Box 10610, Casa Grande, AZ 85230 Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional, a local turfgrass troubleshooter and a Master Gardener with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Dave Langston, Ph.D. is the Superintendent of the Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center, an Extension Specialist in Entomology with the University of Arizona. He can be reached at langston@ag.arizona.edu or write to 37860 W. Smith-Enke Rd., Maricopa, AZ 85239-3010. ____________________ -----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy To: Arid gardener server Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 3:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control >[Being resent do to last week's server problems.] > >I'm interested in hearing feedback on last Wednesday's Republic garden >blurb on controlling pearl scale. I've never been happy with our site's >limited recommendation that little can be done. I guess I want to give >folks something to do! >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm > >A gentleman wrote from Scottsdale with advice received from Harper's to >wit regular treatment with Merit [what sort of insecticide is this >and/or its active ingredients?] to at least manage the scale population >and application of a water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. >Lowering the soil pH makes the scale's habitat less hospitable since it >prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job, but rather kept >the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from >spreading. > >What say you folks who've fought the good fight? Any other treatment >suggestions? > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693-- From JGibson@TriWest.com Fri Sep 29 14:53:39 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:53:39 -0700 From: JGibson@TriWest.com JGibson@TriWest.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Alternatives? I am looking for alternative grasses that would handle our heat but not be susceptible to Pearl Scale. Any suggestions? St. Augustine? Santa Ana? Tiff? I was told that it only attacks Bermuda Hybrids. Is this true? Are there any other non-allergenic grasses that could work? Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:49:55 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:49:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jasmine I am only familiar with star jasmine, which is widely planted in Arizona, but which isn't even a true jasmine. Be that as it may, I would suspect chlorosis at first. We have a good summary of the condition at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/chlorsis.htm Before you fiddle with nutrient deficiencies, understand that there may be adequate soil levels of what your plant needs [particularly if it grew well before], but your watering practice is keeping the necessary oxygen for the transfer too low. So, amending your irrigating to less frequent but deep watering [ensure that 2-3' of the soil is moist, which can be ascertained by the depth you can easily sink a rod into damp soil] is the first step of managing the problem. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener billd@compuserve.com wrote: > We live in Sun Lakes. The tips on the leaves on our night blooming jasmine plant all turn yellow. They come out green, but > after a few days the edges turn yellow. We > have grown this plant in other parts of the > country without problems, but this problem > is new to us. Any suggestions? From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 15:01:02 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:01:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Bound This is a condition where a plant outgrows its container and the roots continue to grow, wrapping round and round. If the root ball is not loosened, and in some cases the binding roots cut free or untangled, the roots will strangle themselves if planted this way in the soil. You could see this by gently digging around your ash tree. I make it a practice to return such stock to the nursery for a replacement or refund, at least on everything 5 gallon size or larger to avoid losing my investment. Shamel ashes can tend to shallow rooting if you do not water them deeply. That means to a soil depth of three feet at least. They can succumb to root rot http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm but I believe that a more established and well cared for tree has a chance of weathering it. I suppose you can root cuttings of your mesquite. Make a clean cut, apply a rooting hormone, and keep in moist medium until rooted. The easiest suggestion I could make is to let the pods stay on the ground. From personal experience, I guarantee you'll have several dozen volunteers to dig up by the following spring/summer. Linda Guy Master Gardener firehousefour@home.com wrote: > I'm hoping you can help answer a few questions for me.What is root bound and can it be fixed? Also I'm having a problem with a Shamel Ash it is about 4 years old and is not growing,I know it is getting enough water,is it possible it is bound? Last but not least can a person grow mesquite from cuttings ... Thank You From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 15:07:40 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:07:40 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocktail Trees Your question has been around for a while and although I know that the citrus cocktail trees are available [you can learn how to create one at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf ] I can't remember who sells them in the valley. My best advice is to contact Greenfield Citrus Nursery for assistance and/or referrals. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Many of us have succumbed to growing the unusual or even bizarre plant now and again just to see what it was like or if we could grow it in an area otherwise inhospitable. Unless your potato/tomato plant is dreadfully expensive, it might be fun to try. They are both Solanaceae. But you should be cautioned that in the low desert, each one grows at slightly different times of year. You may need to coddle this baby in a large container. Write back and let us know what happens! Linda Guy Master Gardener jennifer.hogebaum@schwab.com wrote: > Does anyone have any information on fruit coctail trees? I have seen the citrus and fruit cocktail trees but I am a little leary about the Tomatoe-Potatoe tree that I saw on the web... Here is the link... http://www.cybersol.com/springriver/Tompot2.htm > > Do you believe it? Should I believe it could be possible? Help me! I'm tempted to buy this plant! From Carleneebr@aol.com Fri Sep 29 18:39:06 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 11:39:06 -0700 (MST) From: Carleneebr@aol.com Carleneebr@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene From gmgvt@aol.com Fri Sep 29 19:28:12 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:28:12 -0700 (MST) From: gmgvt@aol.com gmgvt@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page WE are getting ready to put in a garden area at a senior residential community. WE know we need fencing to keep the rabbits out - but we don't know how high the fencing needs to be. Do we need to make it high enough to discourage quail? Thanks for any assistance you can offer. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Sep 29 17:46:18 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:46:18 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: leafhoppers or spittlebugs? Dan Garnett - I may have been a little hasty on my ID of your problem on your herb plants as Sharpshooter Leafhoppers, but these frothy balls you describe on your herb plants are definitely an insect (not a fungus or other disease) - I believe that they could be another small, relatively harmless insect called a 'spittlebug'. Basically the insect is sucking liquid out of the plant to feed on and then passes some of the excess out the other end and uses it to create the froth as a camouflage to help it hide from birds and other predators. If we are describing the same insect to each other, these balls of foam are about 1/4 to 3/4 inches across and usually near the tips of the plant branches and twigs, where the plant tissue is more tender and easier to pierce. Rinsing them off with the garden hose is the best method to get rid of them and to my knowledge they are not harmful. Some sucking insects do carry and transmit virus or bacterial diseases, but the plants that you describe in your concerns should not have any problems with this. If you are still unsure, poke around in one of the frothy balls of foam and you will find a small insect feeding on the plant stem deep inside the foam - usually about 1/4 inch long. If you wanted to, you could take a piece of the plant with foam and insect intact to the Extensions Office at 4341 E. Broadway to drop off for identification at the next plant problem clinic - if you catch a Master Gardener on duty, they may even be able to answer your questions when you are there. Put it in a sealed jar with some tiny air holes in the lid. mike hills ---------------------------------- >Thanks for the information. I was a bit surprised by the answer >because I've seen leafhoppers before, and that wasn't my initial >visual impression. But I should have another, closer look. > >We have hosed them off, and otherwise the plants look very healthy, >so as you say they probably are not harming them. We were more >concerned about whether they might damage other plants we have >(lantana, silk-oak, bottle-brush). > >Interestingly, I searched the web for sharpshooter leafhopper info >and got a swarm of sites on glassy-winged and blue-green sharpshooters >which are apparently transmitting bacterial diseases to wine grapes >and citrus in California. These are large (1/2") leafhoppers and >don't fit the description of what we see. > > Regards, > Don Garnett ----------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Don Garnett > To: mhills_sro@msn.com > Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 11:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question: beetles on rosemary, salvia - a threat? > >> These insects are not harmful to your herb plants in most cases. I >> believe from your description that these are commonly referred to as >> Sharpshooter Leafhoppers. My own herbs, as well as those at the Arizona >> Herb Association's demonstration garden at the Cooperative Extension >> office in Phoenix, are infested with these each summer. > Mike Hills From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Sep 29 17:50:18 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:50:18 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills@seedsolutions.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lavender Debbie - For your question about where to buy replacement lavender plants, here are some great upcoming plant sales that all usually have various herb plants for sale, as well as many many many other great landscaping and xeriscape plants for your fall planting needs. Usually the easiest lavender varieties to grow in the desert southwest are - 'Spanish Lavender', 'French Lavender' (green, not the gray one), 'Grosso Lavender' - these all smell a little different from each other, so try them out to make sure they are the smell you like the best. The 'English Lavender' varieties do not thrive here and are generally very disappointing, unless you plant them under filtered shade such as a tree or partial overhang and baby them along through the hot part of the year. Desert Botanical Garden - Phoenix, AZ - tel #(480)941-1225 - Fall Plant Sale October 20 (members only) - Oct. 21-22 for general public OR at the Master Gardener Interpretive Trail Fall Garden Fair - October 28th (9am - 2pm) at the Maricopa County Extension Office - 4341 East Broadway Rod - Phoenix, AZ. Arizona Herb Association will have an information booth with herb plants for sale, along with lots of other local gardening clubs with information and plants for sale on many other plants - flowers, vegetables, old fashioned roses, irises, etc. OR at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum - Hwy 60, Superior, AZ - Fall Plant Sale with lots of different xeriscape and landscape plants, along with a selection of herb plants - October 14th weekend and onwards for a couple of other weekends Feel free to attend the upcoming meetings of the Arizona Herb Association - Thursday Oct. 5 at 7pm at the Pueblo Grande Museum Community Room. Topic next week is Historical and Mystical herb Lore, but we also have a period of questions and answers on herb growing problems. We will probably have some plants for sale at our November regular meeting - same location - topic will be Herbal Gift Making and Giving. Both meetings are free to the general public as guests. Good Luck with your herb gardening, Mike Hills --------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: MADASMITH@aol.com > To: mhills_sro@msn.com > Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 6:54 AM Subject: Re: [AG] Lavender & Ants >Thank you for your reply. I probably over watered. When and where is the >plant sale you mentioned? I would like to check it out. >Thanks again for your time and your knowledge. >Take Care >Debbie > Mike Hills From dbilduci@tempeschools.com Fri Sep 29 21:58:55 2000 Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:58:55 -0700 (MST) From: dbilduci@tempeschools.com dbilduci@tempeschools.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a palm plant that is yellowing at the ends. What does it need, besides water and vitamin sticks? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Sep 30 23:23:13 2000 Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 19:23:13 EDT From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Rose Garden Planting your roses on the east side of a west wall is a good choice so that the roses can get some relief from the hot PM summer sun. I would suggest that you plant the roses on the south side of the elm tree, again so that the roses can enjoy alittle more shade in summer and be open to the sun in winter. Be sure to plant far enough away from the tree so that you won't have root interferance. Why not visit the Mesa Community College Rose Garden in November where you will see over 3000 roses, most of which will be in bloom. Better yet come on November 18 and enjoy the Mesa East Valley Rose Society's annual rose show held in the Student Center and open to the public from 1.00 to 4.00 pm. Following is a list of roses recommended for the low desert, also a list of fragrant roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ROSES THAT LOVE OUR HEAT Marylou Coffman & Rod McKusick These are a few suggestions out of thousands of possibilities of roses that will grow well in southern Arizona. It is generally agreed that roses purchased at a retail nursery/garden center are superior to those found at discount nurseries or chain-stores. Always select grade #1. Hybrid Tea roses and Miniatures are probably the two most popular types of roses but there are many other choices. Most types vary by flower shape/size, bush size/growth habit, and bloom season & length. So go out and explore the possibilities! HYBRID TEAS Abracadabra Ain't She Sweet (or) Anne M. Lindburgh (pb) Artistry (op) 7.6 Barbara Bush (pb) 7.5 Billy Graham (lp) Blue Moon (m) 5.9 Brandy (ab) 7.0 Bride's Dream (lp) 8.0 Brigadoon (rb) 7.9 Camara (or) Capt.Christopher Columbus(ob) Celebrity (dy) 7.1 Chicago Peace (pb) 7.5 Chris Evert (ob) 7.4 Chrysler Imperial (dr) 7.8 Classic Touch (lp) Color Magic (pb) 8.2 Coral Fiesta (or) Crystalline (w) 7.8 Dainty Bess (lp) 9.0 Desert Peace (yb) 7.6 Dolly Parton (or) 7.4 Donna Darlin' (rb) Double Delight (rb) 8.7 Dublin (mr) 8.5 Elizabeth Taylor (dp) 8.8 Elina (w) 8.9 Elsie Melton (pb) Esther Geldenhus (op) 7.7 First Prize (pb) 8.9 Fountain Square (or) 7.6 Fragrant Cloud (or) 8.3 Capt. Harry Stebbings (dp) 8.1 Heaven (pb) Henry Fonda Honor (w) 7.5 Ingrid Bergman (dr) 7.1 Jane Pauley (or) Korlingo (mr) 8.5 Lanvin (ly) 7.1 Legend (mr) Lobo (rb) 7.2 Magic Lantern (ob) Midas Touch (dy) Mikado (rb) 7.1 Mister Lincoln (dr) 8.8 New Zealand (lp) Olympiad (mr) 9.1 Paradise (m) 8.3 Peace (yb) 6.8 Perfect Moment (rb) 7.5 Prima Donna (dp) 7.5 Pristine (w) 9.2 Rio Samba (yb) Royal Highness (lp) 8.2 Secret (pb) Sheer Bliss (w) 7.8 Sheer Elegance (op) 7.7 Silverado (m) 7.5 St. Patrick (yb) The Temptations (pb) Tineke (w) Touch of Class (op) 9.5 Tropicana (or) 7.6 Ultimate Pink (p) FLORIBUNDAS Angel Face (m) 8.1 Brass Band (ab) Bridal Pink(m) 8.4 Brite Lights (my) 7.4 Cherish (op) 8.4 Hiroshima's Children (yb)7.5 Class Act (w) 7.5 Columbus (dp) 7.6 Dicky (op) 8.8 Escapade (m) 8.8 Europeana (dr) 9.0 French Lace (w) 8.2 Gene Boerner (mp) 8.5 Iceberg (w) 8.7 Intrigue (m) 6.8 Ivory Fashion (w) 8.6 Judy Garland (yb) 7.5 Kanagem (or) 8.4 Koricole(w) 9.0 Lavaglut (dr) 8.4 Love Potion Oranges & Lemons (ob) Origami (pd) 7.7 Playboy (rb) 8.1 Playgirl (mp) 8.1 Purple Tiger (m) Sabrabande (or) 8.0 Sexy Rexy (mp) 9.0 Showbiz (mr) 8.6 Summer Fashion (yb) 8.0 Sunsprite (dy) 8.0 MINIATURES Anita Charles (op) 7.2 Arizona Sunset (yb) 8.0 Beauty Secret (mr) 8.4 Black Jade (dr) 8.3 Captivation (or) Carrot Top (ob) Chelsea Belle (mr) 7.7 Child's Play (w) Elfinglo (m) 7.6 Fairhope (ly) 7.8 Fancy Pants (rb) 8.3 Figurine (w) 7.9 Golden Beauty (yb) 8.1 Good Morning America(my) 7.5 Gourmet Popcorn (w) 8.4 Hot Tamale (rb) Incognito Irresistible (w) 8.0 Jean Kenneally (ab) 9.7 Jingle Bells Joycie (ob) 7.4 June Laver (dy) 7.9 Just For You (dp) 8.0 Kingig (mp) 9.0 Kristin (rb) Linville (w) 7.8 Little Artist (rb) 8.5 Luis Desamero (ly) 7.7 Magic Carrousel (rb) 9.0 Melody Lane (7.4) Minie Pearl(pb) 9.4 Mothers Love (pb) 7.8 My Sunshine (my) 8.7 Old Glory (mr) 7.8 Over The Rainbow (rb) 8.3 Pacesetter (w) 8.6 Pierrine ( op) 9.4 Popcorn (w) 8.3 Pucker Up (or) 8.2 Red Beauty (dr) 8.4 Rise'n'Shine (my) 7.4 Santa Claus (dr) Snow Bride (w) 9.3 MINIATURES CONTINUED Starina (or) 9.0 Sweet Chariot (m) 7.7 Tennessee(op) 8.1 Whoopi (rb) 7.4 X-Rated (pb) POLYANTHAS Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 China Doll (mp) 8.3 The Fairy (lp) 8.7 SHRUBS & AUSTIN ROSES Abraham Darby (op) 7.8 Ballerina (mp) 9.0 Belle Story (lp) 8.5 Dortmund (mr) 9.1 Fisherman's Friend (dr) 8.0 Graham Thomas (dy) 7.9 Heritage (lp) 8.7 Mary Rose (mp) 8.7 Othello (mr) 7.1 Peach Blossom (ab) Perdita (ab) Sally Holmes (w) 8.9 Stretch Johnson (rb) 8.0 The Reeve (dp) 8.0 GRANDIFLORAS Arizona (ob) 5.8 Gold Metal (my) 8.8 Love (rb) 7.1 Queen Elizabeth (mp) 9.0 OLD GARDEN ROSES Austrian Copper (rb) 8.1 R. banksiae banksiae(w) 8.6 Baronne Prevost (mp) 8.5 Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 Cl. Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 Madame Hardy Old Blush (mp) 8.3 R. Rouletti (mp) 6.7 Rose de Rescht (dp) 8.6 Rose du Roi (mr) 7.6 Russelliana (m) 8.2 Sombreuil (w) 8.8 The Green Rose (w) 7.4 Will Scarlet (mr) 8.2 FRAGRANT ROSES Ain't She Sweet (or) America (op) 8.8 Angel Face (m) 8.1 Arizona (ob) 5.8 Miss AllAmericanBeauty(op)8.2 Blue Girl (m) 5.8 Brandy (ab) 7.0 Breathless (dp) Cathedral Celebrity (dy) 7.1 Cherish (op) 8.3 Chrysler Imperial (dr) 7.8 Command Performance(or) 6.7 Dolly Parton (or) 7.4 Don Juan (dr) 8.2 Double Delight (rb) 8.9 Fragrant Cloud (or) 8.3 Fragrant Memory (mp) 7.2 French Lace (w) 8.2 French Perfume (yb) Friendship (dp) 7.4 Glory Days (mp) 7.2 Granada (rb) 8.3 Heirloom (m) 6.3 Iceberg (w) 8.7 Intrigue (m) 6.8 Legend (mr) Love (rb) 7.1 Medallion (ab) 6.7 Mr. Lincoln (dr) 8.8 Papa Meilland (dr) 7.3 Perfume Delight (mp) 7.6 Purple Tiger (m) Queen Elizabeth (mp) 9.0 Rose Parade (pb) 7.0 Saratoga (w) 6.9 Secret (pb) Sheer Bliss (w) 7.8 Summer Fashion (yb) 8.0 Sun Flare (my) 8.1 Sunsprite (dy) 8.7 Sutters Gold (ob) 5.7 Sweet Surrender (mp) 6.6 Taboo (dr) Tiffany (pb) 8.3) From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 04:17:33 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:17:33 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turfgrass information This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0" ------=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Another article on turfgrass planning that may help in your plans =20 ------------------------------ TURFGRASS "DONE RIGHT"!! Mike Hills =96 Maricopa County Master Gardener Turfgrass Agronomist & Plant Breeder for Seed Research of Oregon, = Inc. Some MG=92s and other area plant experts are almost "anti-turf" in = their attitude toward lawns and turf in the Low Desert growing regions. = They want to concentrate their efforts and space to growing vegetables, = flowers, herbs and other plants and do not feel that turf has a place in = their scheme, or even any place in this climate. Actually though, a = turfgrass area that is properly designed, selected, prepared, planted, = watered and maintained has a definite place in the Low Desert. In fact, = it can directly benefit the property owner in numerous ways. These = benefits of course include the use of the area for recreation and = leisure activities. Additionally, researchers at the University of = Arizona have proven repeatedly that turfgrass "done right" can actually = reduce overall energy and water needs in a household. This is very = similar to the household energy benefits that we are all familiar with = for properly chosen, planted and maintained trees. The key to gaining these benefits from our lawn areas lies in this = "done right" point. We must start with the correct design =96 and this = does not mean random kidney bean-shaped grass areas in a home=92s front = yard. Place the turf area where it will be the most useful and provide = the most benefit to the actual living space of the home - the backyard = where children can play safely and the cooling effects of the turf can = be enjoyed the most. Few desert dwellers play and entertain in their = front yards these days. Once you have chosen the most beneficial = location, design and installation of an efficient irrigation system is = the next step, followed by proper soil preparation. Good watering and = well prepared soil will go a long way to keep your turf in the = healthiest, most water efficient state possible for the longest term. NOW comes the absolute crucial step =96 choosing the right grass to = plant. Rushing through this or making a poor decision will negate all = other efforts and keep the gardener always working harder, with no = chance of success. Just as with many other plants, we do find = non-adapted turf choices offered for sale in the Low Desert. Definitely = a case of "Buyer Beware" or "Buyer Be Aware" =96 turf gardeners should = not assume that all items offered for sale are meant to be planted here. = Our extreme climate (freezing to 120 degrees range), as well as our soil = and water quality drastically limits the turf species list that we = should be choosing from. This summer, we will be planting a set of turf plots behind the = Maricopa County Extension Office, showing the limited species that are = at all adapted to this region (plots will be planted with both sodded = and seeded varieties for comparison). MG=92s will be able to observe = these turf plots throughout the year to educate themselves and the = homeowner public. The bottom line for Low Desert dwellers is BERMUDAGRASS - sod or = seed, but plant some type of bermuda for the easiest, healthiest, most = trouble-free lawn. Most of the other turf choices we will demonstrate = will perform o.k. here, but maintenance will generally be higher and = these other turfgrasses are not as "forgiving" as Good Ole Bermuda. Many = individual variety choices are available in this diverse genus, and all = are adapted to our hot climate. Some of the bermudas are available only = in sod form for those wanting that "instant lawn", while others produce = seed that can be planted directly on the lawn site. How do you know that = bermudas will perform here the best? Several sod companies have very = successful turf farms scattered throughout the Low Desert areas, AND 99% = of the world=92s supply of bermudagrass seed is produced in the desert = farming areas of Arizona and California. We don=92t find any successful = sod or seed farmers producing bluegrass or fescue in our region. Once you are convinced (or resigned?) to planting bermuda, the = choices of color, texture, density, mowing needs, disease & pest = resistance, etc. are numerous. Ask questions, check out some existing = plantings or trials and be a true MG, learning from every experience.=20 ------=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Another article on turfgrass = planning that may=20 help in your plans
 
------------------------------

TURFGRASS "DONE RIGHT"!!

Mike Hills – Maricopa County Master Gardener

Turfgrass Agronomist & Plant Breeder for Seed Research of = Oregon,=20 Inc.

Some MG’s and other area plant experts are almost=20 "anti-turf" in their attitude toward lawns and turf in the = Low=20 Desert growing regions. They want to concentrate their efforts and = space to=20 growing vegetables, flowers, herbs and other plants and do not feel = that=20 turf has a place in their scheme, or even any place in this climate. = Actually though, a turfgrass area that is properly designed, = selected,=20 prepared, planted, watered and maintained has a definite place in = the Low=20 Desert. In fact, it can directly benefit the property owner in = numerous=20 ways. These benefits of course include the use of the area for = recreation=20 and leisure activities. Additionally, researchers at the University = of=20 Arizona have proven repeatedly that turfgrass "done right" = can=20 actually reduce overall energy and water needs in a household. This = is very=20 similar to the household energy benefits that we are all familiar = with for=20 properly chosen, planted and maintained trees.

The key to gaining these benefits from our lawn areas lies in = this=20 "done right" point. We must start with the correct design = –=20 and this does not mean random kidney bean-shaped grass areas in a=20 home’s front yard. Place the turf area where it will be the = most=20 useful and provide the most benefit to the actual living space of = the home -=20 the backyard where children can play safely and the cooling effects = of the=20 turf can be enjoyed the most. Few desert dwellers play and entertain = in=20 their front yards these days. Once you have chosen the most = beneficial=20 location, design and installation of an efficient irrigation system = is the=20 next step, followed by proper soil preparation. Good watering and = well=20 prepared soil will go a long way to keep your turf in the = healthiest, most=20 water efficient state possible for the longest term.

NOW comes the absolute crucial step – choosing the right = grass to=20 plant. Rushing through this or making a poor decision will negate = all other=20 efforts and keep the gardener always working harder, with no chance = of=20 success. Just as with many other plants, we do find non-adapted turf = choices=20 offered for sale in the Low Desert. Definitely a case of "Buyer = Beware" or "Buyer Be Aware" – turf gardeners = should not=20 assume that all items offered for sale are meant to be planted here. = Our=20 extreme climate (freezing to 120 degrees range), as well as our soil = and=20 water quality drastically limits the turf species list that we = should be=20 choosing from.

This summer, we will be planting a set of turf plots behind the = Maricopa=20 County Extension Office, showing the limited species that are at all = adapted=20 to this region (plots will be planted with both sodded and seeded = varieties=20 for comparison). MG’s will be able to observe these turf plots = throughout the year to educate themselves and the homeowner = public.

The bottom line for Low Desert dwellers is BERMUDAGRASS - sod or = seed,=20 but plant some type of bermuda for the easiest, healthiest, most=20 trouble-free lawn. Most of the other turf choices we will = demonstrate will=20 perform o.k. here, but maintenance will generally be higher and = these other=20 turfgrasses are not as "forgiving" as Good Ole Bermuda. = Many=20 individual variety choices are available in this diverse genus, and = all are=20 adapted to our hot climate. Some of the bermudas are available only = in sod=20 form for those wanting that "instant lawn", while others = produce=20 seed that can be planted directly on the lawn site. How do you know = that=20 bermudas will perform here the best? Several sod companies have very = successful turf farms scattered throughout the Low Desert areas, AND = 99% of=20 the world’s supply of bermudagrass seed is produced in the = desert=20 farming areas of Arizona and California. We don’t find any = successful=20 sod or seed farmers producing bluegrass or fescue in our region.

Once you are convinced (or resigned?) to planting bermuda, the = choices of=20 color, texture, density, mowing needs, disease & pest = resistance, etc.=20 are numerous. Ask questions, check out some existing plantings or = trials and=20 be a true MG, learning from every experience.=20

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AG4AZwBkAGkAbgBnAHMAAAAiAAQAMAiAGAAA0AIAAGgBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABAADEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAApQbAB7QAtACAABIwAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAEA AAD+//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////AQD+ /wMKAAD/////BgkCAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARhgAAABNaWNyb3NvZnQgV29yZCBEb2N1bWVudAAKAAAA TVNXb3JkRG9jABAAAABXb3JkLkRvY3VtZW50LjgA9DmycQAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA= ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C028C8.59C92AA0-- From mhills_sro@msn.com Thu Sep 28 04:17:39 2000 Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 21:17:39 -0700 From: Mike Hills mhills_sro@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: turfgrass recommendations This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C028C8.5D6452C0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0086_01C028C8.5D6452C0" ------=_NextPart_001_0086_01C028C8.5D6452C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Zoysiagrass will grow here, but it is a lot more work to keep it healthy = in our alkaline and salty soil and water, than most people care to = undergo. =20 Sounds like you are moving to another part of our Low Desert, where the = base turfgrass is still some sort of bermudagrass as the permanent turf = choice. During winter, the bermudas go dormant in this area and you = can choose to let the bermuda stay brown while you take a vacation from = mowing, OR you can plant a winter lawn of Perennial Ryegrass seeded over = the dormant bermuda. The ryegrass grows through spring, when warmer = temperatures stress it out and it fades away as the bermuda base starts = to grow again as it comes out of dormancy. =20 If you are moving into that new area during Fall or Winter, it is too = late to plant the bermudas. You can either spend the Fall and Winter = preparing your turf area soil and installing your irrigation system and = then in April plant the bermuda. OR, you can go ahead and establish a = temporary lawn of ryegrass now and then next Spring/April go ahead and = plow the ryegrass under and plant your bermudagrass base. I have attached an article and copied it into the message below that = will give you more details. look this over and see if you have any = other questions. =20 Good Luck in the new home. =20 Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County =20 ------------------------------- =20 -----Original Message----- From: Shelly Rand To: mhills_sro@msn.com Date: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:37 PM =20 =20 Hi, we read your article on why not to grow Zoysia grass in AZ. What would you recommend for someone moving to rainbow valley = (south of I 10 past buckeye,) where it is just bare ground? Thank you Shelly Rand Phoenix AZ =20 ------------------------------------------------ =20 Seeded Turfgrass Choices for the Low Desert 7/30/99 Mike Hills =96 Master Gardener, Maricopa County - Research = Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon In general, the prime choice of turf for the low deserts of the = Southwestern USA is a variety of "Bermuda" or "Bermudagrass". This is = primarily due to our temperature extremes that may range from the = mid-20=92s for short periods in winter, to 120 degrees F. in mid-summer. = The Cynodon or Bermudagrass genus originates in Africa and India, with a = wide genetic variation and excellent ability to tolerate and survive = stress. Several other turfgrass species are potential choices for the = homeowner or professional turf manager in the low deserts , under = specific planting and care conditions. These minor choices include = Dichondra, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Tall Fescue, American = Buffalograss and Perennial Ryegrass. Please keep in mind, that just because turfgrass seeds are offered = for sale in your local nurseries and garden centers, they are not = necessarily adapted to or appropriate choices for your area. With many = stores participating in national purchasing plans from their suppliers, = we often see turfgrass seeds inadvertently offered for sale that will = not perform or last in the low desert. If you are unsure, check with = your local extension office before purchasing. BERMUDAGRASS In 90% of the turfgrass situations in these areas, a bermudagrass is = the best recommendation. These can be obtained as vegetative or hybrid = bermudas, or seeded bermudas depending on your project plans, site, = soil, budget, maintenance plans, etc. The commercially available hybrid = bermudagrass varieties generally do not produce seed and must be planted = by vegetative or clonal means =96 sod, sprigs or stolons and plugs. Most = bloom at varying levels, especially when stressed, and a few hybrid = bermuda varieties may even produce a small amount of pollen. Sod farms, = nurseries and garden centers in your area will handle the varieties = adapted to the local conditions. For the non-professional or homeowner, the seeded bermudagrass = varieties are generally easier to plant, less expensive to establish and = easier to maintain than the hybrid bermudas. If you have decided to = plant your bermuda turf from seed, you have numerous choices these days = of varieties and blends that are available. These range from inexpensive = "common" bermuda harvested from natural populations in Arizona & = California to a number of "improved, turf-type" bermuda varieties that = have been developed in recent years, with a wide range of pricing. = Pollen and allergy "problems" with these seeded, blooming bermudas are = minimal when mowed and maintained as a healthy turf. "Common" Bermudagrass seed is just that =96 COMMON. Approximately 14 = million pounds of this seed is harvested from farmers=92 fields in = Arizona and California each year and distributed worldwide. 99% of the = world=92s supply of bermudagrass seed comes from these two states due to = the perfect combination of temperature, soil and water conditions. = Farmers have developed this seed from naturalized stands of wild = bermudagrass that were introduced to this area by Spanish cattle several = hundred years ago. As such, "common" bermuda is extremely variable in = appearance (texture, color, density, growth rate, etc.) and performance = when planted in turf situations. These bermuda plants are usually light = green in color, prone to summer chlorosis, have an open growth habit and = a long dormancy period in winter. Much of this seed is actually used = around the world for pasture and hay production, as well as erosion = control and roadside dust control. With good care and perseverance, the = homeowner or turf manager can produce an adequate looking lawn with this = seed, but better choices are readily available for only minimal higher = costs. To further confuse the issue, bermudagrass seed is available in a = number of seed forms, depending on how it has been processed after = harvest. The natural form of the seed is "unhulled" with the tan colored = outer skin intact, which will slow germination speed. "Hulled" seed has = had this skin mechanically removed to increase seed count and speed = germination. "Coated" seed has been wrapped in a lime or clay based = substance, with traces of fertilizer for easier planting of the tiny = seeds. Seed counts range from 1 to 2 million seeds per pound with = suggested planting rates from 1 to 3 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet. = More is definitely NOT better when seeding your lawn area! "Improved" or "Turf-Type" Bermudagrass seed has been developed by = turfgrass breeders specifically for use in turf situations. The breeders = have selected plants for these varieties, that show darker green color, = finer texture, better density, less winter dormancy and better = resistance to insects and pests. Generally these better quality seeded = turf bermudas are sold as "certified" or "blue tag" seed, with the = addition to the label of a blue, certified label assuring that the = production fields were inspected by an independent agency to verify that = the seed is the improved variety shown on the package. Area nurseries = and garden centers have been slow to handle these improved seeded = products, as they have been introduced and made available over the last = 10-12 years. Most of the use of these newer seeded bermuda varieties has = been with turfgrass professionals with golf courses, landscapers, parks, = schools and sports fields in the USA and overseas. It has only been in = the last 2-3 years that these better seeded bermuda products have made = it onto the homeowner consumer shelves. These improved turf-type seeded bermudagrass products are also = available in the same choice of seed=20 as the common bermudagrass seed =96 "unhulled", "hulled" and = "coated". Generally though, due to marketing practices and seed = production success among the bermudagrass seed companies, the coated = seed is the main form available in garden centers and nurseries. = Approximately 20 different, distinct varieties have been released in = recent years, but visible and performance differences among these = varieties are minimal under typical homeowner lawn maintenance systems. = In general, we recommend that you buy whichever one you can find = available at your local garden center, as long as it is a "certified = turf-type" variety. Named varieties you may find available include: = SAHARA, PRIMAVERA, SONESTA, GUYMON, MAJESTIC, MIRAGE, PYRAMID, BLUEMUDA, = SR9554, SULTAN, YUMA, JACKPOT, BLACKJACK, SR9500, SYDNEY and SAVANNAH. = Certified blends of these varieties have also performed well in = turfgrass trials and several are marketed through retail channels: these = include PRIMO Bermudagrass Blend & BERMUDA TRIANGLE Blend. OTHER SEEDED TURFGRASS CHOICES - These are minor turfgrass choices = for the low desert and are definitely not intended for the novice = gardener. With some plant knowledge for desert climates, plus some extra = effort these turf choices can make good lawns for the low desert = homeowner or turf professional. Any turf choices not listed here should = be questioned. Dichondra =96 not technically a grass, this broadleaf turf choice is = for low traffic, more decorative areas. Many people grow it in = combination with bermudagrass, although it does better alone. Tolerant = of shade, but not very tolerant of drought this turf alternative can be = planted from seed or plugs and is generally available at local nurseries = and garden centers in season. Zoysiagrass =96 long advertised as the "elite lawngrass", this = turfgrass can be grown in the low deserts with some success. It is slow = growing, and not as aggressive as bermuda which interests some people. = Blooms are scarce in a turf situation, so pollen allergies are rare. = Most traditional varieties were sold mail order by plugs, but this is = not recommended due to the expense, slow growth and poor adaptation of = those mail order eastern varieties. Most zoysia prefers neutral or = acidic soil and water conditions, so chlorosis in the low desert is = quite common, unless the newer western origin varieties are used or a = regular application of sulfur or iron is maintained. Seeded varieties = are not usually available from local sources, except as special order = items. There are some newer seeded varieties with good turf = characteristics, but most seed available is "common" seed harvested from = pastures in China, and marketed in the USA under different fancy brand = labels =96 ex: Traveler brand, Zen brand, Panda brand, etc. St. Augustinegrass =96 this is an old standard for use in heavily = shaded areas and is quite common in older neighborhoods in the low = desert, where large trees have shaded out other turfgrasses through the = years. This creeping, warm season turf is very coarse textured, and = generally a light green color. It is not invasive, as there are no = underground rhizomes. Only rarely available as seed at this time, this = grass is usually planted from plugs or sod produced by local sod farms = and sold through nurseries. Tall Fescue =96 this seeded turfgrass choice is very shade tolerant, = if maintained at a higher 3-4 inch mowing height. It rarely spreads and = some additional seed must be planted each fall to maintain sufficient = turf cover. Seeding is best accomplished in the fall to allow this cool = climate, European native to establish an extensive root system before = the desert summer hits. Seed is readily available at nurseries, packaged = under a wide range of variety and brand names =96 all perform similarly = in the low desert. DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS GRASS BETWEEN MAY 15 AND = SEPTEMBER 15 IN MOST LOW DESERT CLIMATES. American Buffalograss =96 this short, spreading grass is native to = the Great Plains of North America, from southern Canada south into = northern Mexico. Much in the press the last few years, this warm season = turfgrass choice has a place in the low desert where the turf owner = wants a low input, low maintenance choice =96 especially if the grass = can be left to grow naturally with only occasional mowing. Buffalograss = does go dormant in winter before bermuda, and should not be overseeded. = Available at garden centers in the low desert as seeded varieties or as = sod =96 all perform similarly if properly planted & maintained. Perennial Ryegrass =96 generally a choice for winter overseeding of = dormant bermuda lawns, many of the newer more heat tolerant perennial = ryegrasses can be maintained in shaded, heavily watered areas as a weak = year round turf. Available from seed in a wide choice of varieties from = local garden centers and nurseries =96 should be planted in mid-fall for = best results.=20 ------=_NextPart_001_0086_01C028C8.5D6452C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Zoysiagrass will grow here, but it = is a lot more=20 work to keep it healthy in our alkaline and salty soil and water, than = most=20 people care to undergo.
 
Sounds like you are moving to = another part of=20 our Low Desert, where the base turfgrass is still some sort of = bermudagrass as=20 the permanent turf choice.   During winter, the bermudas go = dormant in=20 this area and you can choose to let the bermuda stay brown while you = take a=20 vacation from mowing, OR you can plant a winter lawn of Perennial = Ryegrass=20 seeded over the dormant bermuda.   The ryegrass grows through = spring,=20 when warmer temperatures stress it out and it fades away as the bermuda = base=20 starts to grow again as it comes out of dormancy.
 
If you are moving into that new area = during Fall=20 or Winter, it is too late to plant the bermudas.    You = can=20 either spend the Fall and Winter preparing your turf area soil and = installing=20 your irrigation system and then in April plant the bermuda.   = OR, you=20 can go ahead and establish a temporary lawn of ryegrass now and then = next=20 Spring/April go ahead and plow the ryegrass under and plant your = bermudagrass=20 base.
 
I have attached an article and copied it into the = message=20 below that will give you more details.     look this = over=20 and see if you have any other questions.
 
Good Luck in the new home.
 
Mike Hills
Master = Gardener, Maricopa=20 County
 
-------------------------------
 
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Shelly Rand <rashelly@uswest.net>
To:= =20 mhills_sro@msn.com = <mhills_sro@msn.com>
Date:= =20 Wednesday, September 20, 2000 10:37 PM

Hi, we read your article on why not = to grow=20 Zoysia grass in AZ.
 What would you recommend for = someone=20 moving to rainbow valley (south of I 10 past buckeye,) where it is = just bare=20 ground?
Thank you
Shelly Rand
Phoenix AZ
 
------------------------------------------------
 

Seeded Turfgrass Choices for the Low Desert=20 7/30/99

Mike Hills – Master Gardener, Maricopa County - Research=20 Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon

In general, the prime choice of turf for the low deserts of the=20 Southwestern USA is a variety of "Bermuda" or=20 "Bermudagrass". This is primarily due to our temperature = extremes=20 that may range from the mid-20’s for short periods in winter, = to 120=20 degrees F. in mid-summer. The Cynodon or Bermudagrass genus = originates in=20 Africa and India, with a wide genetic variation and excellent = ability to=20 tolerate and survive stress. Several other turfgrass species are = potential=20 choices for the homeowner or professional turf manager in the low = deserts ,=20 under specific planting and care conditions. These minor choices = include=20 Dichondra, Zoysiagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Tall Fescue, American=20 Buffalograss and Perennial Ryegrass.

Please keep in mind, that just because turfgrass seeds are = offered=20 for sale in your local nurseries and garden centers, they are not=20 necessarily adapted to or appropriate choices for your area. With = many=20 stores participating in national purchasing plans from their = suppliers, we=20 often see turfgrass seeds inadvertently offered for sale that = will=20 not perform or last in the low desert. If you are unsure, check = with=20 your local extension office before purchasing.

BERMUDAGRASS

In 90% of the turfgrass situations in these areas, a bermudagrass = is the=20 best recommendation. These can be obtained as vegetative or = hybrid=20 bermudas, or seeded bermudas depending on your project plans, = site,=20 soil, budget, maintenance plans, etc. The commercially available = hybrid=20 bermudagrass varieties generally do not produce seed and must = be=20 planted by vegetative or clonal means – sod, sprigs or stolons = and=20 plugs. Most bloom at varying levels, especially when stressed, and a = few=20 hybrid bermuda varieties may even produce a small amount of pollen. = Sod=20 farms, nurseries and garden centers in your area will handle the = varieties=20 adapted to the local conditions.

For the non-professional or homeowner, the seeded bermudagrass = varieties=20 are generally easier to plant, less expensive to establish and = easier to=20 maintain than the hybrid bermudas. If you have decided to plant your = bermuda=20 turf from seed, you have numerous choices these days of varieties = and blends=20 that are available. These range from inexpensive "common" = bermuda=20 harvested from natural populations in Arizona & California to a = number=20 of "improved, turf-type" bermuda varieties that have been=20 developed in recent years, with a wide range of pricing. Pollen and = allergy=20 "problems" with these seeded, blooming bermudas are = minimal when=20 mowed and maintained as a healthy turf.

"Common" Bermudagrass seed is just that –=20 COMMON. Approximately 14 million pounds of this seed is = harvested=20 from farmers’ fields in Arizona and California each year and=20 distributed worldwide. 99% of the world’s supply of = bermudagrass seed=20 comes from these two states due to the perfect combination of = temperature,=20 soil and water conditions. Farmers have developed this seed from = naturalized=20 stands of wild bermudagrass that were introduced to this area by = Spanish=20 cattle several hundred years ago. As such, "common" = bermuda is=20 extremely variable in appearance (texture, color, density, growth = rate,=20 etc.) and performance when planted in turf situations. These bermuda = plants=20 are usually light green in color, prone to summer chlorosis, have an = open=20 growth habit and a long dormancy period in winter. Much of this seed = is=20 actually used around the world for pasture and hay production, as = well as=20 erosion control and roadside dust control. With good care and = perseverance,=20 the homeowner or turf manager can produce an adequate looking lawn = with this=20 seed, but better choices are readily available for only minimal = higher=20 costs. To further confuse the issue, bermudagrass seed is available = in a=20 number of seed forms, depending on how it has been processed after = harvest.=20 The natural form of the seed is "unhulled" with the tan = colored=20 outer skin intact, which will slow germination speed. = "Hulled"=20 seed has had this skin mechanically removed to increase seed count = and speed=20 germination. "Coated" seed has been wrapped in a lime or = clay=20 based substance, with traces of fertilizer for easier planting of = the tiny=20 seeds. Seed counts range from 1 to 2 million seeds per pound with = suggested=20 planting rates from 1 to 3 pounds seed per 1,000 square feet. = More is=20 definitely NOT better when seeding your lawn area!

"Improved" or "Turf-Type" Bermudagrass = seed has=20 been developed by turfgrass breeders specifically for use in turf=20 situations. The breeders have selected plants for these varieties, = that show=20 darker green color, finer texture, better density, less winter = dormancy and=20 better resistance to insects and pests. Generally these better = quality=20 seeded turf bermudas are sold as "certified" or "blue = tag" seed, with the addition to the label of a blue, certified = label=20 assuring that the production fields were inspected by an independent = agency=20 to verify that the seed is the improved variety shown on the = package. Area=20 nurseries and garden centers have been slow to handle these improved = seeded=20 products, as they have been introduced and made available over the = last=20 10-12 years. Most of the use of these newer seeded bermuda varieties = has=20 been with turfgrass professionals with golf courses, landscapers, = parks,=20 schools and sports fields in the USA and overseas. It has only been = in the=20 last 2-3 years that these better seeded bermuda products have made = it onto=20 the homeowner consumer shelves.

These improved turf-type seeded bermudagrass products are also = available=20 in the same choice of seed

as the common bermudagrass seed – "unhulled",=20 "hulled" and "coated". Generally though, due to=20 marketing practices and seed production success among the = bermudagrass seed=20 companies, the coated seed is the main form available in garden = centers and=20 nurseries. Approximately 20 different, distinct varieties have been = released=20 in recent years, but visible and performance differences among these = varieties are minimal under typical homeowner lawn maintenance = systems. In=20 general, we recommend that you buy whichever one you can find = available at=20 your local garden center, as long as it is a "certified = turf-type"=20 variety. Named varieties you may find available include: SAHARA, = PRIMAVERA,=20 SONESTA, GUYMON, MAJESTIC, MIRAGE, PYRAMID, BLUEMUDA, SR9554, = SULTAN, YUMA,=20 JACKPOT, BLACKJACK, SR9500, SYDNEY and SAVANNAH. Certified blends of = these=20 varieties have also performed well in turfgrass trials and several = are=20 marketed through retail channels: these include PRIMO Bermudagrass = Blend=20 & BERMUDA TRIANGLE Blend.

OTHER SEEDED TURFGRASS CHOICES - These are minor = turfgrass=20 choices for the low desert and are definitely not intended for the = novice=20 gardener. With some plant knowledge for desert climates, plus some = extra=20 effort these turf choices can make good lawns for the low desert = homeowner=20 or turf professional. Any turf choices not listed here should be=20 questioned.

Dichondra – not technically a grass, this broadleaf = turf choice=20 is for low traffic, more decorative areas. Many people grow it in=20 combination with bermudagrass, although it does better alone. = Tolerant of=20 shade, but not very tolerant of drought this turf alternative can be = planted=20 from seed or plugs and is generally available at local nurseries and = garden=20 centers in season.

Zoysiagrass – long advertised as the "elite=20 lawngrass", this turfgrass can be grown in the low deserts with = some=20 success. It is slow growing, and not as aggressive as bermuda which=20 interests some people. Blooms are scarce in a turf situation, so = pollen=20 allergies are rare. Most traditional varieties were sold mail order = by=20 plugs, but this is not recommended due to the expense, slow growth = and poor=20 adaptation of those mail order eastern varieties. Most zoysia = prefers=20 neutral or acidic soil and water conditions, so chlorosis in the low = desert=20 is quite common, unless the newer western origin varieties are used = or a=20 regular application of sulfur or iron is maintained. Seeded = varieties are=20 not usually available from local sources, except as special order = items.=20 There are some newer seeded varieties with good turf = characteristics, but=20 most seed available is "common" seed harvested from = pastures in=20 China, and marketed in the USA under different fancy brand labels = –=20 ex: Traveler brand, Zen brand, Panda brand, etc.

St. Augustinegrass – this is an old standard for use in = heavily=20 shaded areas and is quite common in older neighborhoods in the low = desert,=20 where large trees have shaded out other turfgrasses through the = years. This=20 creeping, warm season turf is very coarse textured, and generally a = light=20 green color. It is not invasive, as there are no underground = rhizomes. Only=20 rarely available as seed at this time, this grass is usually planted = from=20 plugs or sod produced by local sod farms and sold through = nurseries.

Tall Fescue – this seeded turfgrass choice is very = shade=20 tolerant, if maintained at a higher 3-4 inch mowing height. It = rarely=20 spreads and some additional seed must be planted each fall to = maintain=20 sufficient turf cover. Seeding is best accomplished in the fall to = allow=20 this cool climate, European native to establish an extensive root = system=20 before the desert summer hits. Seed is readily available at = nurseries,=20 packaged under a wide range of variety and brand names – all = perform=20 similarly in the low desert. DO NOT FERTILIZE THIS GRASS BETWEEN MAY = 15 AND=20 SEPTEMBER 15 IN MOST LOW DESERT CLIMATES.

American Buffalograss – this short, spreading grass is = native=20 to the Great Plains of North America, from southern Canada south = into=20 northern Mexico. Much in the press the last few years, this warm = season=20 turfgrass choice has a place in the low desert where the turf owner = wants a=20 low input, low maintenance choice – especially if the grass = can be=20 left to grow naturally with only occasional mowing. Buffalograss = does go=20 dormant in winter before bermuda, and should not be overseeded. = Available at=20 garden centers in the low desert as seeded varieties or as sod = – all=20 perform similarly if properly planted & maintained.

Perennial Ryegrass – generally a choice for winter = overseeding=20 of dormant bermuda lawns, many of the newer more heat tolerant = perennial=20 ryegrasses can be maintained in shaded, heavily watered areas as a = weak year=20 round turf. Available from seed in a wide choice of varieties from = local=20 garden centers and nurseries – should be planted in mid-fall = for best=20 results.

 
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/wEA/v8DCgAA/////wYJAgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYYAAAATWljcm9zb2Z0IFdvcmQgRG9jdW1lbnQA CgAAAE1TV29yZERvYwAQAAAAV29yZC5Eb2N1bWVudC44APQ5snEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA ------=_NextPart_000_0085_01C028C8.5D6452C0-- From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 20:59:51 2000 From: mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Michael Rose) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 13:59:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Message-ID: <4.3.0.20000921135940.00abcd90@ag.arizona.edu> Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:07:22 2000 From: mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Michael Rose) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:07:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] test Message-ID: <4.3.0.20000921140713.00ab7890@ag.arizona.edu> Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:08:32 2000 From: mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Michael Rose) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:08:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Message-ID: <4.3.0.20000921140822.00a72f00@ag.arizona.edu> Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 21 21:10:26 2000 From: mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Michael Rose) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 14:10:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Test Message-ID: <4.3.0.20000921141015.00b06ba0@ag.arizona.edu> Test -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:29:58 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:29:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Damaged Olive Tree Message-ID: <87.f22f24.26fbf3f6@aol.com> Mark, It sounds like you do not have any choice but to do a flush cut to remove the fallen limb. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Sep 21 23:30:04 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 19:30:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] When to plant Chilean Mesquite Message-ID: <4f.11d1607.26fbf3fc@aol.com> Jim, If some one has not answered your question , here goes. Mesquites can be planted nearly any time of year, however Oct. and Nov. would be my choice for planting them. The problem with the preformed concrete rings is that they are too small. You should be watering the entire root zone of your tree, and in a couple of years the roots will be way out beyond the 3 foot rings. Why not make an earth berm at about 8 or 10 feet diameter, then the whole root zone will be watered, at least for a few years. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@uswest.net Thu Sep 21 23:52:00 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2000 16:52:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Finest Horticultural Education Experience in the West Message-ID: <39CA9F1F.A1878D9@uswest.net> Attention all you Arid Gardener subscribers! You are cordially invited to attend the 2000 Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference. The conference will be held October 14-16 at the Mesa Conference Center, Mesa AZ. This non-profit conference is being presented by the Master Gardeners from the University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. It is being held in conjunction with the Western Regional Master Gardening Conference and is the only conference of its kind in the Southwest to share time and research-based information on gardening in the low deserts of the arid Southwest with homeowners, educators, rose lovers, arborists, horticultural professionals and Master Gardener volunteers from the 13-state Western region. This is a GREAT place to get answers to your gardening questions. Learn new techniques, solutions to gardening problems and the best plants for your landscape situation. Are you interested in starting a butterfly garden? A hummingbird garden? Two of the many talks to be given are on Butterflies and Hummingbirds by experts in these fields. Are you new to the state? What better place to learn all the ins and outs of gardening in the low desert - a totally different experience if you are from the midwest or the east. Beside the variety of plant topics which will be most useful to you, the new Arizona resident, you will also find talks on such topics as the various Life Zones of Arizona, given by Terry Mikel. Or you might enjoy our talk entitled, "From Rim to Rim: Ethnobotany of the Grand Canyon", a talk and slide presentation given by Greg Woodall, archaeologist, Colorado River guide, and botanist for Grand Canyon National Park. We have something from everyone. And our vendor line-up alone will have you feeling like you are in shopping heaven, just in time for the holidays! Specialized hands-on workshop sessions will be held on Saturday, October 14th. These include, "Confident Tree and Shrub Pruning", "Making Gourd Birdhouses", "Creating a Memory Tile from Found Objects", "How to Build Your Own Fountain", "How to Make Beautiful Flower Arrangements Using Roses" at the ARS-sanctioned Rose Arrangement workshop and a Container Gardening Workshop. The two-day conference rate for Sunday, October 15 and Monday, October 16, including a Sunset Welcome Reception on Saturday, October 14 at the Desert Botanic Garden, featuring a slide show tour of gardens around the country by Mr. Jim Flint, Youth Garden Grants Director for the National Gardening Association, all sessions for the two days, breakfast and lunch for both days and a Sunday Western Round-Up Dinner is $175. Conference price without the dinner is $155. Or you can choose to attend for one day only and the price is $90. The full conference price for Master Gardeners is $150. To view complete information about this incredible educational experience, including session descriptions, speakers, workshops and tours, please visit our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Information on registration is on the web site. We hope to see you there! Sue Bass Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 22 23:08:59 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 19:08:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses dying Message-ID: Roses are a member of the same family as pyracantha which is quite susceptable to fire blight, however I've never seen Fireblight on roses in the low desert. The tell tale symptom of fireblight is that the canes will look as if they were burned with a blow torch. Rust and blackspot are very seldom seen on roses in tthe low desert. The only fungus that we have to contend with is powdery mildew. For this we are thankful. The symptoms that you describe is fairly common in the low desert, but to my knowledge has not been named. I have lost several roses this summer to those same symptoms. Recently I sent a rose dying with those symptoms to the Univ. of Arizona pathology lab in Tuscon. They were unable to find a pathogen that was causing the problem. Yesterday at a rose society meeting I talked with four other Consulting Rosarians about the problem that we all encounter, one that you described, and we all agreed that the problem is caused by high temperatures, wind and sun burn and inadequate irrigation. Even with adequate irrigation there may be times when the rose is not able to take up enough water to satisfy its need. Most of the rosarians that are growing roses for show are doing some things to help the rose handle our hot summers such as; Covering their roses with shade screen. Wash down or mist their roses often, daily if possible. Cover the rose bed with a 3 or 4 inch mulch. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored on summer rose care, I hope it will be helpful. If you live in the east valley I'd like to extend an invitation to attend the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting which will be held at Mesa Community College, student center, Kiva room at 7.00 pm on Oct. 12. If you can attend you will pass by MCC's rose garden with over 3000 Roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian SUMMER ROSE CARE The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you'll have good drainage and you won't over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root's cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer works well and usually lasts about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on thecontainer. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shiney sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Besure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees are important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leaves, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden , stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses in summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms in the fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From bstttharker@aol.com Sat Sep 23 00:28:48 2000 From: bstttharker@aol.com (bstttharker@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:28:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009230028.RAA26656@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. Thanks for any help you can give. From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 01:16:54 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 18:16:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Landscape References: <200009230028.RAA26656@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39CC0486.1D4418E9@uswest.net> Welcome to Gilbert! I also live in Gilbert. I'd like to direct you to our publications page which you can reach by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Many of our publications may be viewed on line. If you go the section called "Ornamentals" you will find some of these on-line files which would most likely be helpful to you. One is entitled "Plants for Poolside Landscape" which would be helpful to you since you mentioned you would like to include a pool/spa in your new landscape. Under the heading "Flowers" you will find on-line a flower and bedding guide as well as a plant table. Please browse around. Although not all of the publications are on-line, others are available form the Maricopa County Cooperative Extenstion office. Many of the library branches also have a binder with these publications in them and you can make a copy. The binder is 635 General Reference and ask the librarian to find it for you. The title is Horticulture Publications. Another good source of information is our on-line version of the Master Gardener manual which you can access at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ You will find information on planting, irrigation, fertilization, etc. If you haven't visited our web site at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Please take your time and browse around. There are many good sources of information listed here including a "Recommended Reading" section listing excellent books. Our Events section lists upcoming classes that may be helpful. If you haven't heard about the Low Desert Landscape and Gardening Conference which the Maricopa County Master Gardeners are hosting in October, you may want to take a look. There will be speakers talking about many topics that are excellent for homeowners thinking about installing new landscapes. You can view information about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/calendar/mg2000.htm Good Luck! I hope I didn't overload you. Feel free to contact us any time for further information. Sue Bass Master Gardener bstttharker@aol.com wrote: > We moved into our new home in Gilbert AZ. We would like to landscape our back yard. > We will do most of the work ourselves, but need some ideas. We have been looking around but thought I would see if you have some different ideas. > We would like to put a spa/pool, fire pit, fruit trees (maybe two), small patch of grass, the rest rock or brick. Maybe a pond. > Can you give some ideas of possible trees, grass, bushes, or plants that would do well in gilbert with the red clay like soil. We do intend on running a drip or watering system. > Thanks for any help you can give. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:53:30 2000 From: orpha@home.com (orpha@home.com) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:53:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009231053.DAA23127@Ag.Arizona.Edu> If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in wat ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. From orpha@home.com Sat Sep 23 10:54:15 2000 From: orpha@home.com (orpha@home.com) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009231054.DAA23181@Ag.Arizona.Edu> If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. RP Wells From greatmfs@aol.com Sat Sep 23 15:36:37 2000 From: greatmfs@aol.com (greatmfs@aol.com) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 08:36:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009231536.IAA09986@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Would like information on Canna. Care, Maintenance and when to seperate and repot. Thank You mike From lindaguy@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 19:45:52 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 12:45:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Annual Science Alive Conference - Hydroponics Message-ID: <39CD0870.85AA99D0@uswest.net> When I attanded the SW Horticultural Trade Show recently, I found a flier on an annual educational conference sponsored by UA and others in Tucson from January 2-6, 2001. This annual gathering of educators, students and community members is focusing this year on the field of hydroponics. Check out additional information at http://ag.arizona.edu/science_alive/ Linda From dkrob6@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 22:17:46 2000 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009232217.PAA16317@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth -or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly appreciated and we thank you in advance. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 22:45:13 2000 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 22:45:13 GMT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: I have not grown grapes myself. I do have a publication written by Michael Kilby, Extension Specialist, Fruit and Nut Crops. For training grapes, he states: "FIRST YEAR: The main objective is to develop a root system, therefore, no pruning is necessary. Growers should not attempt to train vines as reserves in the roots are not great enough to support both vine and root development. During the dormant season the vine is cut back to the stongest best positioned one or two shoots." So, my understanding would be to leave the current growth and wait to prune in January. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dkrob6@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:17:46 -0700 (MST) > >We just bought a "flame grape" and hope to train it to grow up and over our >ramada to provide grape bunches over our patio, along with a little shade. >Our question is this, it has about 8 feet to go up its support pole before >it would be a ble to spread out over the ramada, and we would like to know >if we should trim back the 3 leafy branches (approx. 1 - 3 feet in >length)now before we tie it to the pole and wait for the new spring growth >-or - should we just tie the leafy branches up the pole? Advice is greatly >appreciated and we thank you in advance. > _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Sep 23 23:07:04 2000 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 23:07:04 GMT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: I have had some success with loosening the existing soil, adding 4-6 inches of organic material (usually compost), and ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur per label directions. Mix all together very well, rake to smooth and remove clumps and rocks, and water. (Correct irrigation is critical here in the desert). If you want an organic garden, then substitute organic products for the ammonium phosphate and soil sulfur. The organic material can be anything that is available locally and is inexpensive, just make sure it is well composted. Others are growing in pure compost. You will probably get many different ideas! My two cents.... Linda Drew >From: orpha@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 03:54:15 -0700 (MST) > >If you could make the "perfect" soil for your vegetable garden, what would >it contain and in what ratios? I have a 10ft by 20ft plot I am using that >is about 8 inches deep at this time and need to fill it up. > >RP Wells _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Sep 23 22:28:42 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 15:28:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnias - When to Spread Seeds Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now? One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. Thanks for any information anybody can give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Is it OK = to spread zinnia seeds now?=A0 One packet = of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet = says that they should be spread in May. =A0=A0

 

Thanks = for any information anybody can give me.

 

Ursula Miller

 <= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C02572.F493CBC0-- From sjbass@uswest.net Sat Sep 23 23:45:43 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2000 16:45:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zinnia - planting time References: Message-ID: <39CD40A7.E18DD8D2@uswest.net> --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Ursula! According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November. You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months. The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds > says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; > another packet says that they should be spread in May. > > Thanks for any information anybody can give me. > > Ursula Miller > --------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Hi Ursula!
According to the Flower and Bedding Plant Guide published by the University of Arizona, you can plant zinnia from March through June for flowering from April through November.  You can view this table on line on the publications page at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Since most seed packets are good for the year that they are date stamped, I guess it couldn't hurt to give it try and see what happens, but it really depends on what type of weather we have for the next few months.  The chart states that the time to first bloom from for zinnia is 30 days.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Ursula Miller wrote:

Is it OK to spread zinnia seeds now?One packet of seeds says that they should be spread now in the Phoenix area; another packet says that they should be spread in May. 

Thanks for any information anybody can give me. 

Ursula Miller

--------------78DD8023602893AB5AF3912F-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Mon Sep 25 16:55:40 2000 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 09:55:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees Message-ID: <20000925165540.7768.qmail@web1403.mail.yahoo.com> I have read your info regarding irrigation of citrus but it seems no matter how long I leave the water on, I cannot probe more than 20 in. 2hrs after completing irrigation. I have a large well out to the edge of the cannopy and use bubblers. I estimate that I apply about 3 gallons a minute and leave the bubblers on for 1 1/2 hrs. It takes up to 8 hrs for the well to drain dry. Am I just the victim of heavy clay soil and shoulg I do any thing about it? The trees look OK although the lemon tree is still recovering from a leaf drop last season. Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com/ From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Sep 25 17:22:27 2000 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:22:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... References: <20000925165540.7768.qmail@web1403.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39CF89D3.705507F@email.sps.mot.com> Hello, I have a question. My Jacaranda tree blooms twice per year, once in the spring, and once in the fall. Is this common? I've never noticed this happening on other Jacaranda trees in the neighborhood. This year the fall bloom was even showier than the spring bloom. Alan http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Take your shoes off, stay awhile, I'll make daquiri's! :) From Mythreesunz@aol.com Mon Sep 25 17:54:51 2000 From: Mythreesunz@aol.com (Mythreesunz@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 10:54:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009251754.KAA23241@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We planted 2 Chinese Evergreen Elm trees the end of April 2000; in August a monsoon wind blew one of them partially over (we were out of town but a neighbor re-staked it. Two weeks later it dropped all of its leaves (our other tree didn't) and now it is growing new leaves. Did the stress of partially blowing over cause this? Also I need to know how & when to prune these trees, watering guidelines for the winter and fertilizing. We plant a winter lawn where these trees are and I am wondering how the watering and fertilizing of our winter lawn will affect these trees. Thank you for your response. From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Mon Sep 25 18:44:41 2000 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 11:44:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aphids, Whitefly, and Leafminers Message-ID: I sent this once befor but I think the listserv ate it. My corn and snap beans are doing OK with the exception of some leafminer damage on the snapbeans and some whiteflies that went after one stalk of corn. But my zucini and cucumbers were doing poorly. At first I thought I was overwatering them, but then I noticed ants and honeydew. I turned over a leaf and it was covered with aphids! I treated the aphids using the oil mixture described for whitefiles. It seemed to work though the aphids were so bad that I lost the zuccini and I think the cucumbers are badly damaged. What can I do next year? I don't mind using chemicals. Thanks in advance, - Jim From Olin Miller" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pauline Rodriguez" > > The High Country Garden Club will have a fall garden tour, September 30, from > 8:00 to 4:00, on Saturday, and Sunday from 1:00 to 5:00 . There will be 6 > gardens, with refreshments and bath room accessibility, at the one in East > Verde Estates. Two have zeriscape landscaping, very well done, one > at Loins Spring road, that is 2 1/2 acres, that is a gardeners dream. Bob > Muggli has 20 different variety of grapes, 50 rose bushes, has built his > work shop of straw bales, many unique verities of cross bred fruit trees, > for instance, Aprim, which is 75% apricot and 25% plum. Many berries, a > Japanese garden in the making. > > The one that will take time to tour , is Joanne Chilcoat, on Flowing Springs > Road. Joanne has 5 Acres, with roses, pond, boulders, exotic pheasants, > burro, goats, more than I can describe. In fact, they are doing a shoot > tomorrow, for the COUNTRY GARDENER magazine, to be featured in an issue, > next year. She is one of five in the US, to be selected for this honor. . > Please direct any questions to Pauline at hawkeye@goodnet.com . Olin From papa-nannie@rkis.com Mon Sep 25 22:41:10 2000 From: papa-nannie@rkis.com (papa-nannie@rkis.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 15:41:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009252241.PAA27520@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Will you please give me instructions for trimming and rooting the Tombstone rose (Rosa banksiae). I would like to share with my neighbors. your help would be appreciated. also will a Money plant grow here? My sister from Indiana gave me seeds and told me to soak them before planting, but I can find no other info on them. thank you for your help, Nena Shelton From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:06 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] deep watering of citrus trees Message-ID: <22.b9f36f0.2701367a@aol.com> Bob, Is it possible that you have caliche at the level that the water won't penetrate ? If the property where your house is located was once farm land there could be a layer of hardpan at about the depth where the water is not penetrating caused by the irrigation water flushing the salts and chemicals below the root zone of their crops. The application of gypsum and or soil sulfur will help to loosen the soil and allow better water penetration. This may take some time before you see a difference. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:03 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Elm care Message-ID: <6f.addc274.27013677@aol.com> The stress caused by your tree blowing over probably caused the leaf drop. Do not prune your newly planted trees for two years except for dead or broken branches, it is best to leave as much foliage on the tree as possible to allow the tree to grow more rapidly and to increase the girth of the tree so that it can stand alone. The over seeding and fertilizing will not affect the tree adversely provided you deep water the tree periodically, in fact the tree should be deep watered year round, biweekly in the summer and monthly in the winter. If you just planted the bermuda grass seed or sod this year, Univ. of Arizona recommends that first year sod or seeded bermuda not be overseeded until next year. For irrigation information check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at the following website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Sep 25 23:15:02 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 19:15:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree Blooms Twice Per Year... Message-ID: <74.34c1cf2.27013676@aol.com> Alan, The Jacaranda usually has a heavy bloom in the spring with a few blooms ocasionally throughout the summer. You may have a species that will bloom twice a year, or it could be an oddity of nature that has caused your tree to have a heavy bloom in the fall. Do you live in the Phoenix area ? If so where did you buy the tree ? I would like to find out if this is a newly developed species. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From janal@juno.com Tue Sep 26 03:50:35 2000 From: janal@juno.com (janal@juno.com) Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2000 20:50:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009260350.UAA01064@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Subject- Dead Flowers I have a slightly raised garden bed and planted Vinca a I always have in the past. These have done well in the summer. I planted Pansies last winter and these also did well. However, this summer the planting of vinca died for no apparent reason. We have a sprinkling system (drip) on a timer. At first the flowers looked stressed from what might have been a lack of water, then they dried up. Bought some more and these did the same thing. The Huneysuckle vine, rosemary and hergs, etc, in the general area are doing fine. Someone told me that putting the Pansies in and then Vinca causes something to happen to the soil. Isw this a fact? If so, what can I do to correct the problemlll, ie additives, etc. ?? Thanks you for your any help. Janice Wipf From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 13:49:56 2000 From: dg.anderson@home.com (Douglas Anderson) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 06:49:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Message-ID: <003001c027c0$a7c6c680$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01C02785.FB4DFDE0-- From dbreiner@segalco.com Tue Sep 26 16:18:28 2000 From: dbreiner@segalco.com (dbreiner@segalco.com) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 09:18:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009261618.JAA25513@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am planning on putting in a rose garden in my backyard in southern Scottsdale. The roses will be against the west wall so will get the morning sun from the east. They also are near an elm tree which will provide partial shade. My questions: which varieties of roses are best suited to this environment? which are the most fragrant? most beautiful? Thank you for your help. From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Tue Sep 26 18:36:25 2000 From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM (MADASMITH@AOL.COM) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:36:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009261836.LAA28136@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is any one familiar with the area of 45th Ave and Olive? The city planted pine trees along the street area and the area is only about 3 feet wide. I would like to find out what kind of pine tree they are, that I guess they are not going to get real big. Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge. From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Tue Sep 26 18:52:41 2000 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 11:52:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: beetles on rosemary, salvia - a threat? Message-ID: <200009261852.LAA17730@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> We have a rosemary plant and two salvias, about one year old, southern exposure, a little shade provided by a palo verde, watered 1-2 times per week by drip. Lately the rosemary and salvias have been sporting numerous white, frothy tufts of liquid. Closer examination shows that the froth encases a small brown insect, about 3/8 inch long, shaped like a lady bug. One more was found on a branch of the palo verde which had been in direct contact with the rosemary. The plants look very healthy otherwise. Can anyone tell us what these insects are and if they pose a threat to our plantings? From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:01:10 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:01:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] SEPTIC TANK References: <3.0.32.20000918140000.0094dab0@mail> Message-ID: <39D10E96.A1FC90FF@uswest.net> Ella: I'm sorry that you have not received a response to your honeysuckle question. I will see if I can find an answer for you and respond. Thank you for your patience. Sue Bass Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From dg.anderson@home.com Tue Sep 26 21:05:55 2000 From: dg.anderson@home.com (Douglas Anderson) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:05:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: Message-ID: <002101c027fd$8fc5fbe0$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM Subject: Fw:=20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AM
Subject: Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the first = time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own = once=20 the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_001E_01C027C2.E3459220-- From sjbass@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:34:31 2000 From: sjbass@uswest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:34:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: References: <002101c027fd$8fc5fbe0$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> Message-ID: <39D11667.26BB00B9@uswest.net> --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug: Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn. For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Douglas Anderson wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September > 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Douglas Anderson > To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, > September 25, 2000 11:35 AM > I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with > perennial ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own > once the weather cools off? --------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Doug:
Perennial ryegrass must be reseeded each year for a cool season lawn.  For more information on warm season and cool season lawns, please see the section on lawns in our Master Gardener manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Douglas Anderson wrote:

 
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.eduSent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 AMSubject: Fw:
  
----- Original Message ----- To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.EduSent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM
 I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools off?
--------------35DE263AF8D8E08D94D41446-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 21:58:46 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 14:58:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mums; Flowers for Planters References: <200009180457.VAA18903@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D11C16.AE4C7B79@uswest.net> A fellow Master Gardener recently wrote in our monthly newsletter that she keeps her mums in ceramic/clay pots [vs. plastic] in dappled shade during the summer and when the temps start to drop in the fall places them in full sun. She claims to have been rewarded consistently with fall blooms doing this. You don't mention the type of plants you want in your beds or exposure to sunlight. If you are interested in appropriate selection of annuals, check out our online flower publication at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener giza41@aol.com wrote: > what type of plants would be good for partial shade in my front lawn, I have a long border on each side of my sidewald of about 15 feet length and about a foot wide, and also I have mums planted in my front plantar form last year they havent bloomed since last winter-spring will they bloom soon or should I take them out they are also in partial shade. Thank you From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:00:32 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:00:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palm Care] Message-ID: <39D11C80.6E54A1A3@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] What's the assessment on Doug's brown palm??? Linda --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailTS.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailTS.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 72762 invoked by uid 0); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:27 -0000 Received: (qmail 76555 invoked from network); 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: from motgate.mot.com (129.188.136.100) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 18 Sep 2000 20:09:25 -0000 Received: [from pobox3.mot.com (pobox3.mot.com [10.64.251.242]) by motgate.mot.com (motgate 2.1) with ESMTP id NAA07577 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:17 -0700 (MST)] Received: [from az33exi01.corp.mot.com (az33exi01.corp.mot.com [199.2.84.10]) by pobox3.mot.com (MOT-pobox3 2.0) with ESMTP id NAA17772 for ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:07:55 -0700 (MST)] Received: by az33exi01.corp.mot.com with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) id ; Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:16 -0700 Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2000 13:09:15 -0700 Message-ID: <87568F78ABDCD211A0AC0008C707718B02A4CE3A@az10exm03.sat.mot.com> From: "Geist Douglas-P11054" To: "'Linda Guy'" Subject: RE: Queen Palm Care MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2650.21) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thanks for the info, I read the article and have some follow on questions. Do you have a phone? I can talk faster than I can type (480-732-4803). The major problem I have is that the palm leaves on all my Queens (I have 5) are all turning brown (as opposed to yellow). I have them on a drip system that runs every 3 days for 1 1/2 hours (about 6 gals total), plus I deep water them every 2 weeks (summer schedule). I have put "palm food" on three time this summer. They are growing very slow. I have one palm that has yellow leaves coming out at the "bud" area and I suspected bud rot and put two applications of Bordeaux on in August. Need more applications? Any ideas? Thanks, Doug -----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy [mailto:lindaguy@uswest.net] Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 10:15 AM To: Doug.Geist Cc: Arid gardener server Subject: Queen Palm Care Apologies if I am duplicating someone else's response, but we've had a few queen palm questions in the last few days. We have an excellent palm publication which you can access online. Our list of publications is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and you will find the palm pub under the ornamentals section. Queen palms are much fussier than some others in our soils and drying winds. Take a look at the crown for signs of rot, too, post monsoon season. If you have questions after you've read material, let us know. Linda Guy Master Gardener doug.geist@motorola.com wrote: > My Queen Palms are struggling. I would like to talk to someone about the care and feeding. --------------10D6480B89D7F22E54EE93B5-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:23 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse] Message-ID: <39D11CB3.9256D4C3@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Here's another person's viewpoint on kalanchoes. I am aware that there are some people who grow kalanchoe outdoors, some of which have reseeded quite nicely. One server member offered her 'volunteers' free to whomever wanted to come and dig some last spring! But with about 200 species in this genus, it's hard to give only the most general of advice. Many of us are able to grow indoor plants in selected places outdoors, often the northern facade, as this person shares. Still, Sunset Western Garden's general assessment is that these are indoor plants. It seems that this respondent's view, like mine, is that the recent heat may be the culprit, and some additional water in this period of stress might be helpful. Thanks for your input, Jay! Linda Guy Master Gardener --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmailKF.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmailKF.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 10708 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (204.147.80.24) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: (qmail 12564 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from imo-r13.mx.aol.com (152.163.225.67) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 05:41:13 -0000 Received: from J082758@aol.com by imo-r13.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v28.15.) id 9.70.32224de (1782) for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:09 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 01:41:08 EDT Message-ID: <70.32224de.26f85674@aol.com> From: J082758@aol.com To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Re: [AG] Kalanchoe Collapse MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hi! For your edification, I have several Kalanchoe growing outside (in pots) year-round. Mine are against a north wall. I have no problems with them EXCEPT in extremely hot weather such as we have been experiencing lately.They are doing fine when I water them a couple of times per week during this unseasonable weather. If I forget them they start to wilt on me. As you suggested, they do have excellent drainage. I live east of Mesa. At the present time mine are blooming. Sincerely, Jay --------------DDA28630E2FBCBDF7AB0A9EC-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:45 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Vanilla planifolia] Message-ID: <39D11D05.A8A5AA22@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] Thanks to all who helped Mickey out! --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312 Content-Type: message/rfc822; name="nsmail8N.TMP" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline; filename="nsmail8N.TMP" Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 82775 invoked by uid 0); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:52 -0000 Received: (qmail 9989 invoked from network); 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from smtp.ispchannel.com (HELO smtp2a.ispchannel.com) (24.142.63.7) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Sep 2000 17:13:51 -0000 Received: from q5l9x0 ([208.164.114.242]) by smtp2a.ispchannel.com (InterMail vK.4.02.00.00 201-232-116 license 7d3764cdaca754bf8ae20adf0db2aa60) with SMTP id <20000919171608.HUQV382.smtp2a@q5l9x0> for ; Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:16:08 -0700 Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 10:12:55 -0700 Message-ID: <001301c0225c$dac43040$f272a4d0@lakehavasu.ispchannel.com> From: "Ron & Marian Liesen" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Vanilla planifolia MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks to you and a marvelous person, Wilella Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid = Society I have two positive sites to order my vanilla planifolia. = Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant if I ever get to = the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total strange. The = internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. Mickey Liesen P.S. From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is the easy part of my hair-brained idea! ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks to you and a marvelous person, = Wilella=20 Stimmell, of the AZ Orchid Society I have two positive sites to order my = vanilla=20 planifolia.  Wilella even offered to give me a piece of her plant = if I ever=20 get to the Phoenix area, unbelievable kindness from a total = strange.  The=20 internet is a great place to meet some of the lovely folks in this = world. =20 Thank you and all the others at the office that helped in my = search. =20 Mickey Liesen  P.S.  From what Wilella tells me acquiring the = plant is=20 the easy part of my hair-brained idea!
------=_NextPart_000_0010_01C02222.2DC520A0-- --------------1E45B541A2C3285B5AA10312-- From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:30 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm, Lemon and Orange Tree Problems References: <200009090657.XAA00857@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D11CF6.DFE5E2F2@uswest.net> [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm going to try to help you with some of your tree problems, but may not be able to do a good job on all of them. I do not recall hearing that termites would attack trees, but I suppose anything is possible. You will get good info from a few of our publications, that will help you identify if indeed you have termites, and which kinds. MC-39 Termites; MC-40 ID of Termites and Some Similar Winged Insects; MC 79 AZ Termites. Unfortunately, these are not online. Go to the following page of our webiste for instructions on ordering them http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Or ask your public library if they have a volume of the Home Horticulture pubs in the reference section, code 635. On the same page, if you go to the ornamentals section, you will see a hotlink to our palm care publication AZ 1021. It will give you plenty of insights as to what may have arisen with your queen palms, which are fussier than most other palms in the Phoenix climate. They are susceptible to bud rot, nematodes, root rot and iron chlorosis.Please read up in the section on diseases and other problem management [p.6] in an effort to identify your issues and save the remaining trees. Color of citrus fruit is not a reliable guide to a fruit's ripeness. It is often affected by the weather, which needs to get cold enough [our winters have been anything but lately] to change green fruit to its appropriate color. Green fruit can still become quite ripe. You might be interested in looking at a few of our citrus pubs on the same web page; some are available online. However, this wouldn't have been a reason for the tree to die. You haven't given enough information on the tree's age, your care practices, its exposure, etc. to help identify the source of its demise. If there was a 'smelly' condition, it was probably phytophthora foot rot http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/phytop.htm The fruit peel texture was probably citrus thrips whose damage is mostly cosmetic with the fruit itself remaining good http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/c-thrips.htm Again, taste is the only good indicator that the fruit is mature and, if it is not yet ripe, it needs to be left on the tree to do so. Did you wait long enough for your oranges? Did you pick at the appropriate time [see publication AZ 1001 in the citrus section]? If you tried to ripen the citrus anywhere but on the tree, your results would be as disappointing as you've indicated. If this isn't the case, I wonder if there wasn't something else that happened to cause the poor quality of your juicing oranges. Change in fertilization or watering practice? Overspray of some chemical? Linda Guy Master Gardener Deb6363@uswest.net wrote: > I have lost two queen palms to termites, or > thats what Iam told killed them. I have two > and dont want the same thing to happen. Is there > anything I can put on them to get rid of the > termite problem??? > > Also, My lemon treed died- I have no idea why > but in past years it would be loaded with lemons > in the right season then last year somehow it > started to get Limes!!! I was told it cross > pollinated with my orange and grapefruit trees. > Can this really happen? Now this year I have no > lemons or limes! > > Any while Iam on the tree role, 5 years ago one > of my orange trees got really great juicing > oranges and since they just get a rough bumpy/blubbly > type peel and are very sour. > > Any help you can give me would be greatly appriciated. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:02:05 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:02:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Soil for Yuccas References: <200009081531.IAA22720@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D11CDD.8DEDEF80@uswest.net> [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I don't grow these plants, but our fellow Master Gardener who is the container plant guru recommends a soil mix for cactus and succulents of 2 parts pumice to one part potting soil. True, yuccas are in the lily family, but they often grow in conditions also conducive to succulents. You might want to read the relevant pages in the Sunset Western Garden Book, and Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, both of which are no doubt available in your public library. Periodic deep waterings are generally enough. Drainage is key.... if these containers are outdoors, get rid of the saucers! Don't let the plants sit in water. Linda Guy Master Gardener laurel_van_ruitenbeek@hotmail.com wrote: > What type of soil and in what proportions should be used to pot yucca plants? My father-in-law in the Phoenix area gave me several small clippings to bring home (Dallas area). I have had the clippings in water, and roots are starting to grow. Thanks for your help. From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:01:48 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:01:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] SEPTIC TANK Plantings References: <3.0.32.20000918140000.0094dab0@mail> Message-ID: <39D11CCC.B3C20439@uswest.net> [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I would avoid deep rooted plantings for an active system [avoiding the additional cost of routing out the system] but I don't think most honeysuckle varieties would cause difficulties. If the tank and field have been abandoned in place, as they have been in our neighborhood, my experience is that virtually anything g[r]oes! Linda Guy Master Gardener Ella Mardick wrote: > Is it advisable to plant honey suckle near a septic tank/leech bed? From lindaguy@uswest.net Tue Sep 26 22:03:02 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:03:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control Message-ID: <39D11D16.7C98145A@uswest.net> [Being resent do to last week's server problems.] I'm interested in hearing feedback on last Wednesday's Republic garden blurb on controlling pearl scale. I've never been happy with our site's limited recommendation that little can be done. I guess I want to give folks something to do! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm A gentleman wrote from Scottsdale with advice received from Harper's to wit regular treatment with Merit [what sort of insecticide is this and/or its active ingredients?] to at least manage the scale population and application of a water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. Lowering the soil pH makes the scale's habitat less hospitable since it prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job, but rather kept the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from spreading. What say you folks who've fought the good fight? Any other treatment suggestions? Linda Guy Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:14:35 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 18:14:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Replanting Ryegrass Message-ID: <72.35cce8d.270279cb@aol.com> Douglas, If you want green grass this winter you will need to replant the ryegrass this fall. Perenial rye is a cool season grass and cannot handle the high temperatures in the low desert consequently it dies out in April or May and allows the Bermuda to florish. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From dickcarmi@aol.com Tue Sep 26 22:47:33 2000 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 15:47:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009262247.PAA20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have noticed holes approx. 2" in diameter around some of my large boulders and concrete slabs. It was indicated that this might be gophers. I don't see any current activity. What likely caused the burrowing and what to use to get rid of or treat to keep out. Thank you. From c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com Wed Sep 27 00:32:27 2000 From: c.thomas@thomas-tvert.com (Charlie Thomas) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 17:32:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscubscribe Message-ID: From kelarsen@primenet.com Wed Sep 27 03:05:58 2000 From: kelarsen@primenet.com (kelarsen@primenet.com) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 20:05:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009270305.UAA04525@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! From umiller@azdps.com Wed Sep 27 04:39:51 2000 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2000 21:39:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200009270305.UAA04525@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: The Western Garden Book says that the jade plant is OK for zones 12-24, which includes us in the Valley. But my healthy, large jade plant took a nosedive once the temperatures moved to and stayed in the 100's. The 'leaves' burned. It eventually died. But all my Elephant's Food (Portulacaria Afra) plants do very well all year long and need little water. They look like a jade plant but grow faster. They supposedly grow 12 ft tall, though mine spread wide instead - kind of overflowing the pots which looks nice. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of kelarsen@primenet.com Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 8:06 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to valley gardening and have just received some jade cuttings from a generous relative who had hers trimmed. I am interested in native and/or low water usage plants, and wonder if jade falls into either of these categories. I am also unsure exactly how to transplant these cuttings into my yard so they stay healthy and thrive. Any advice from the experts out there would be very much appreciated. Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dg.anderson@home.com Wed Sep 27 12:59:22 2000 From: dg.anderson@home.com (Douglas Anderson) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 05:59:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <003501c02882$c1ed7c80$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in with perennial rye grass this fall? ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Will bluegrass grow if its mixed in = with perennial=20 rye grass this fall?
------=_NextPart_000_0032_01C02848.155C49E0-- From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:25:32 2000 From: cambpd@cs.com (cambpd@cs.com) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:25:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009272025.NAA24007@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From cambpd@cs.com Wed Sep 27 20:27:06 2000 From: cambpd@cs.com (cambpd@cs.com) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 13:27:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009272027.NAA24223@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too big I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:27 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree recommendation Message-ID: <35.abeb442.2703ddc7@aol.com> Since the Carob tree is quite susceptible to Texas Root Rot I would suspect that TRR killed your Carob and especially if it died quite suddenly and the leaves stayed on the tree. The only trees that are immune to TRR are Palms and bamboo. Most of the desert adapted trees such as mesquite and palo verde are resistant to TRR. Even so if you intend to plant in the same location as the Carob I would suggest that you treat the soil first with a chemical such as Vapam. Directions, information, and a list of trees that are resistant to TRR are available in Cooperative Extension bulletin 8734 from U. of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a charge of $1.00, or most public libraries will have this in the referance section. The Tipu tree is listed as being deciduous or simi deciduous which means it will probably lose its leaves in winter in the Phoenix area. My preferance would be a thornless mesquite, if it is irrigated properly and the crown thinned to cut down wind resistance it will stay upright. The only negative is the seed pod drop. Why not visit Desert Botanical Garden in Scottsdale where you can see many different varieties of trees that do well in the low desert. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Sep 27 23:33:33 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 19:33:33 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control Message-ID: <36.beb1ac2.2703ddcd@aol.com> Hi Linda, I'll pass on the info that I have about the use of Merit to control pearl scale. Since Merit is not registered for use on pearl scale, U.of A. staff and Master Gardeners are not allowed to recommend the use of Merit to control pearl scale. I have heard that some landscapers are using Merit with some sucess. I didn't see the article in the Republic so I cannot comment. Merit is however registered for use on grubs I'm told. Good luck and keep up the good work. Rod From molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Sep 28 00:06:06 2000 From: molsen@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Mary Olsen) Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 17:06:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200009272025.NAA24007@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3.0.2.32.20000927170606.0073152c@ag.arizona.edu> At 01:25 PM 9/27/00 -0700, you wrote: >I had a Carob tree in a lawn area recently die. I believe it was due to a root fungus since there was visible fungus on the ground around the tree and the roots were decayed. I am looking for a replacement tree and would appreciate any advise. I like thornless Mesquite but I understand wind throw is a problem. I like evergreen Elms or the Heritige Oak but they may get too bid I they may be suseptable to root rot fungus as well. Is the Tipuana Tipu a reasonable choise. Is the Tipu somewhat evergreen in Phoenix. I would like something that is mostly evergreen w/o thorns and about the same size as a Carob. Any suggestions. Thanks. Could you send me some specifics about the symptoms on your carob tree? How fast did it die and how old is the tree? Also, could you describe the fungus that was on the ground around the tree? Was it a low white mat, shelf-like or bulbous shaped growths at the base, or golden brown growths at the base? Did it smell like a mushroom? Was it attached to the tree or roots? Thanks for the information - Mary Olsen, Extension Specialist in Plant Pathology Dr. Mary Olsen Associate Extension Specialist Dept. of Plant Pathology, Forbes 204 University of Arizona Tucson, AZ 85721 phone 520-626-2681 email molsen@ag.arizona.edu From Mike Hills" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0" ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable More information to help your thinking process on turfgrass plans. ------------------------ "Oh For The Green Green Grass of Home=85=85=85=85" 6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener =96 Research Agronomist =96 Seed = Research of Oregon Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn "back = home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead of = the gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with your = new home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you=92ve decided = you would like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may = have bought an older, flood irrigated home with an already existing = large lawn area and want to reduce your work load, or you have one of = those silly (AKA "stupid") little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front = yard that needs constant maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for = a play area because it=92s too small =96 these can easily be redesigned = and renovated. You could spend months trying to decipher all the = conflicting information and opinions on lawn and turf areas for this = area. Comments you may have heard include: "Lawns & turf are the biggest = water waster, and certainly are not native to the desert" OR "A properly = maintained lawn can cool a house, reducing overall water and electric = use" OR "Water=92s cheap in the desert, so why worry?" OR "After all, = you still see those older flood irrigated yards with acres of turf and = the golf courses seem to water their grass every day" OR even "Lawns are = the major source of allergy causing pollen in this area". Are you now = more confused than ever? What to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What = Do I Do? Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or = "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other nations = (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for more history and details). As people moved West and = Southwest to the deserts, to enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit = came along. Having a lawn or not is a very personal decision based on = your own values, leisure time, esthetics, budget, etc. so I won=92t say = here whether you should grow grass in the desert or not =96 I will = however give you some basic background and suggestions that may help = reduce the mystery and misinformation, ultimately helping you to = formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right lawn in the = right manner. Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly designed, = properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a place in many = desert dwellers=92 homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas for = children and pets or even entertaining adults, they do actually cool a = house and yard which does reduce total water and electric use for the = household, and they can be esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintained = at the proper height, they will not bloom or spread pollen =96 in fact, = turf areas are excellent for filtering the air of many other airborne = pollutants and irritants. Planned properly, planted properly and = maintained properly, a turf area is actually a smart item for most = property owners. If these steps are not thought out and carried through = correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly planted and poorly = maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will certainly live up to = all the anti-turf comments you have heard. Read through the following = information as you plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting. Before you plant, PLAN PROPERLY =96 1) SIZE - discuss with your spouse = and kids how much lawn they need or want for play use and how large an = area are you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple research = to learn about the correct type of lawngrass for your situation (full = sun or shaded, high or low level of play use, more use planned for = summer or winter seasons, what level of lawn care and budget do you = want, etc.?) =96 we have only a very limited selection of grasses to = choose from in the low desert due to our winter to summer temperature = extremes, so choose correctly =96 keep in mind that just because its = offered for sale at your local garden center, it is not necessarily = appropriate for your climate and the grass variety or kind you grew in = your yard "back home" is most likely not adapted to our climate, 3) = LOCATION =96 do you really want a turf area in your tiny front yard = where the children are not allowed to play due to traffic, or should it = be in your backyard where it can be used and enjoyed by the entire = family =96 grass is a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get = the best sun exposure, 4) WATER =96 investigate and plan a good = automatic irrigation system to make your lawn a lot happier and a lot = healthier, plus to reduce waste of this precious commodity =96 look on = the expense of a good lawn irrigation system as an investment, not a = cost =96 a properly watered & maintained lawn, planted to the correct = turf species does not have to be a water waster, as many turfgrass = species such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought = tolerance. Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY =96 as with any perennial garden = planting, your soil preparation and planting process will have an = enormous impact on the long term health and success of your lawn. Good = detailed information on lawn preparation and planting is available from = local lawn seed or sod suppliers, as well as the University of Arizona = and your local Extension office. Bottom line, prepare the soil well =96 = don=92t just throw the grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect = it to thrive. A poorly prepared lawn soil will mean long or short term = failure and will certainly cause you to waste water in trying to keep = your struggling turf alive. Last and just as important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY =96 think of your = turfgrass plants as if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If = you don=92t maintain them well, they will be more susceptible to stress = from temperature extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will require = larger inputs of chemicals, water, time and energy just to stay alive. = As the weather changes, check with your local water company or in the = gardening section of the newspaper for correct water amounts for the = various times of the year. Remember again that your lawn is a group of = garden plants =96 you certainly don=92t water your trees, flowers or = vegetables the same amount all year. AND, please don=92t copy your = neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, merely assuming they know = what is best for your yard also. Just because a nearby homeowner waters = his lawn at midnight twice a week, or the local golf course waters their = fairways every morning for 20 minutes or your local school or park mows = twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean that you = should do the same =96 you surely don=92t butcher your old mulberry = trees, just because that guy at the end of the block does it every year? = Correct turfgrass maintenance (mowing, fertilizing, watering, = overseeding, etc.) differs drastically from site to site depending on = the soil type, the mowing height, sun exposure, amount of use or play, = the grass variety or kind planted, disease and insect pests present, and = many other factors. Read the materials provided by your local garden = center or Extension office, take a class in turfgrass maintenance at = your local college or even attend the desert turfgrass session planned = for the upcoming Low Desert Gardening Conference in late July. Since you = are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn as a = grouping or planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them as = such, rather than as The Great Mystery. Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it will = enjoy being yours for many years to come. ------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
More information to help your = thinking process=20 on turfgrass plans.
 
 
------------------------

"Oh For The Green Green Grass of=20 Home…………"

 

6/99 by Mike Hills, Master Gardener – Research Agronomist = – Seed=20 Research of Oregon

Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn = "back=20 home"? Do you think you would rather have a nice lawn area, instead = of the=20 gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad "zeroscape" that came with = your new=20 home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, but you’ve decided = you would=20 like a lawn in your yard, after all? On the flip side, you may have = bought an=20 older, flood irrigated home with an already existing large lawn area and = want to=20 reduce your work load, or you have one of those silly (AKA = "stupid")=20 little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front yard that needs constant=20 maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for a play area because = it’s=20 too small – these can easily be redesigned and renovated. You = could spend=20 months trying to decipher all the conflicting information and opinions = on lawn=20 and turf areas for this area. Comments you may have heard include: = "Lawns=20 & turf are the biggest water waster, and certainly are not native to = the=20 desert" OR "A properly maintained lawn can cool a house, = reducing=20 overall water and electric use" OR "Water’s cheap in the = desert,=20 so why worry?" OR "After all, you still see those older flood=20 irrigated yards with acres of turf and the golf courses seem to water = their=20 grass every day" OR even "Lawns are the major source of = allergy=20 causing pollen in this area". Are you now more confused than = ever? What=20 to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What Do I Do?

 

Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or=20 "addiction" if you prefer), when we compare ourselves to other = nations=20 (see the excellent article in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian = magazine for=20 more history and details). As people moved West and Southwest to the = deserts, to=20 enjoy the sun and warmth, this turf habit came along. Having a lawn or = not is a=20 very personal decision based on your own values, leisure time, = esthetics,=20 budget, etc. so I won’t say here whether you should grow grass in = the=20 desert or not – I will however give you some basic background and=20 suggestions that may help reduce the mystery and misinformation, = ultimately=20 helping you to formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right = lawn in=20 the right manner.

Even the "anti-turf enthusiasts" will admit that a properly = designed, properly placed, properly maintained turf area does have a = place in=20 many desert dwellers’ homes. Turf areas make excellent play areas = for=20 children and pets or even entertaining adults, they do actually cool a = house and=20 yard which does reduce total water and electric use for the household, = and they=20 can be esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintained at the proper height, = they=20 will not bloom or spread pollen – in fact, turf areas are = excellent for=20 filtering the air of many other airborne pollutants and irritants. = Planned=20 properly, planted properly and maintained properly, a turf area is = actually a=20 smart item for most property owners. If these steps are not thought out = and=20 carried through correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly = planted and=20 poorly maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will certainly = live up to=20 all the anti-turf comments you have heard. Read through the following=20 information as you plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting.

Before you plant, PLAN PROPERLY – 1) SIZE - discuss with your = spouse=20 and kids how much lawn they need or want for play use and how large an = area are=20 you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple research to learn = about=20 the correct type of lawngrass for your situation (full sun or shaded, = high or=20 low level of play use, more use planned for summer or winter seasons, = what level=20 of lawn care and budget do you want, etc.?) – we have only a very = limited=20 selection of grasses to choose from in the low desert due to our winter = to=20 summer temperature extremes, so choose correctly – keep in mind = that just=20 because its offered for sale at your local garden center, it is not = necessarily=20 appropriate for your climate and the grass variety or kind you grew in = your yard=20 "back home" is most likely not adapted to our climate, 3) = LOCATION=20 – do you really want a turf area in your tiny front yard where the = children are not allowed to play due to traffic, or should it be in your = backyard where it can be used and enjoyed by the entire family – = grass is=20 a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get the best sun = exposure, 4)=20 WATER – investigate and plan a good automatic irrigation system to = make=20 your lawn a lot happier and a lot healthier, plus to reduce waste of = this=20 precious commodity – look on the expense of a good lawn irrigation = system=20 as an investment, not a cost – a properly watered & maintained = lawn,=20 planted to the correct turf species does not have to be a water waster, = as many=20 turfgrass species such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought = tolerance.

Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY – as with any perennial = garden=20 planting, your soil preparation and planting process will have an = enormous=20 impact on the long term health and success of your lawn. Good detailed=20 information on lawn preparation and planting is available from local = lawn seed=20 or sod suppliers, as well as the University of Arizona and your local = Extension=20 office. Bottom line, prepare the soil well – don’t just = throw the=20 grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect it to thrive. A poorly = prepared=20 lawn soil will mean long or short term failure and will certainly cause = you to=20 waste water in trying to keep your struggling turf alive.

Last and just as important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY – think of your = turfgrass=20 plants as if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If you = don’t=20 maintain them well, they will be more susceptible to stress from = temperature=20 extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will require larger inputs of = chemicals,=20 water, time and energy just to stay alive. As the weather changes, check = with=20 your local water company or in the gardening section of the newspaper = for=20 correct water amounts for the various times of the year. Remember again = that=20 your lawn is a group of garden plants – you certainly don’t = water=20 your trees, flowers or vegetables the same amount all year. AND, please=20 don’t copy your neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, = merely=20 assuming they know what is best for your yard also. Just because a = nearby=20 homeowner waters his lawn at midnight twice a week, or the local golf = course=20 waters their fairways every morning for 20 minutes or your local school = or park=20 mows twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean that you = should=20 do the same – you surely don’t butcher your old mulberry = trees, just=20 because that guy at the end of the block does it every year? Correct = turfgrass=20 maintenance (mowing, fertilizing, watering, overseeding, etc.) differs=20 drastically from site to site depending on the soil type, the mowing = height, sun=20 exposure, amount of use or play, the grass variety or kind planted, = disease and=20 insect pests present, and many other factors. Read the materials = provided by=20 your local garden center or Extension office, take a class in turfgrass=20 maintenance at your local college or even attend the desert turfgrass = session=20 planned for the upcoming Low Desert Gardening Conference in late July. = Since you=20 are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn as a = grouping or=20 planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them as such, rather = than as=20 The Great Mystery.

Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it will = enjoy=20 being yours for many years to come.

 

------=_NextPart_001_008E_01C028C8.AA420EC0-- ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0 Content-Type: application/msword; name="6-99 MG turf article.rtf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="6-99 MG turf article.rtf" {\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\uc1 = \deff0\deflang1033\deflangfe1033{\fonttbl{\f0\froman\fcharset0\fprq2{\*\p= anose 02020603050405020304}Times New = Roman;}}{\colortbl;\red0\green0\blue0;\red0\green0\blue255;\red0\green255= \blue255;\red0\green255\blue0; \red255\green0\blue255;\red255\green0\blue0;\red255\green255\blue0;\red25= 5\green255\blue255;\red0\green0\blue128;\red0\green128\blue128;\red0\gree= n128\blue0;\red128\green0\blue128;\red128\green0\blue0;\red128\green128\b= lue0;\red128\green128\blue128; \red192\green192\blue192;}{\stylesheet{\widctlpar\adjustright = \fs20\cgrid \snext0 = Normal;}{\s1\keepn\widctlpar\outlinelevel0\adjustright \fs28\cgrid = \sbasedon0 \snext0 heading 1;}{\*\cs10 \additive Default Paragraph = Font;}{\s15\widctlpar\adjustright=20 \cgrid \sbasedon0 \snext15 Body Text;}}{\info{\title Ethan = Frome}{\author EW/LN/CB}{\keywords Ethan}{\operator = RSI}{\creatim\yr2000\mo9\dy26\hr10\min37}{\revtim\yr2000\mo9\dy26\hr10\mi= n37}{\printim\yr1999\mo6\dy3\hr16\min59}{\version2}{\edmins1} {\nofpages2}{\nofwords1108}{\nofchars6316}{\*\company SEED = RESEARCH}{\nofcharsws0}{\vern113}}\margl1440\margr1440 = \widowctrl\ftnbj\aenddoc\hyphcaps0\formshade\viewkind1\viewscale90\pgbrdr= head\pgbrdrfoot \fet0\sectd=20 \linex0\headery0\footery0\endnhere\sectdefaultcl = {\*\pnseclvl1\pnucrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl2\pnucltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl3\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = .}}{\*\pnseclvl4 \pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl5\pndec\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (}{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl6\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (}{\pntxta = )}}{\*\pnseclvl7\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb (} {\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl8\pnlcltr\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb = (}{\pntxta )}}{\*\pnseclvl9\pnlcrm\pnstart1\pnindent720\pnhang{\pntxtb = (}{\pntxta )}}\pard\plain \s1\keepn\widctlpar\outlinelevel0\adjustright = \fs28\cgrid {\b\i\fs24 \ldblquote=20 Oh For The Green Green Grass of Home\'85\'85\'85\'85\rdblquote=20 \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24 6/99 by Mike = Hills, Master Gardener \endash Research Agronomist \endash Seed = Research of Oregon \par=20 \par Are you new to the Desert Southwest and pining for your large lawn = \ldblquote back home\rdblquote ? Do you think you would rather have a = nice lawn area, instead of the gravel-base nice xeriscape or bad = \ldblquote zeroscape\rdblquote=20 that came with your new home? Maybe you are a native desert dweller, = but you\rquote ve decided you would like a lawn in your yard, aft er all? On the flip side, you may have bought an older, flood irrigated = home with an already existing large lawn area and want to reduce your = work load, or you have one of those silly (AKA \ldblquote = stupid\rdblquote=20 ) little kidney bean shaped lawns in your front yard that needs constant = maintenance but cannot be used by the kids for a play area because = it\rquote s too small \endash=20 these can easily be redesigned and renovated. You could spend months = trying to decipher all the conflicting information and opinions on lawn = and turf areas for this area. Comments you may have heard include: = \ldblquote=20 Lawns & turf are the biggest water waster, and certainly are not native = to the desert\rdblquote OR \ldblquote A properly maintained lawn can = cool a house, reducing overall water and electric use\rdblquote OR = \ldblquote Water\rquote s cheap in the desert, so why worry?\rdblquote OR \ldblquote After all, you = still see those older flood irrigated yards with acres of turf and the = golf courses seem to water their grass every day\rdblquote OR even = \ldblquote=20 Lawns are the major source of allergy causing pollen in this = area\rdblquote . Are you now more confused than ever?}{\i\fs24 What = to do? What to do? What to do? Help! What Do I Do?}{\fs24=20 \par=20 \par Large, highly maintained lawns seem to be a very American habit (or = \ldblquote addiction\rdblquote if you prefer), when we compare = ourselves to other nations (see the excellent artic le in the April 1999 issue of Smithsonian magazine for more history and = details). As people moved West and Southwest to the deserts, to enjoy = the sun and warmth, this turf habit came along. Having a lawn or not is = a very personal decision based on you r own values, leisure time, esthetics, budget, etc. so I won\rquote t = say here whether you should grow grass in the desert or not \endash=20 I will however give you some basic background and suggestions that may = help reduce the mystery and misinformation, ultimately helping you to = formulate your own decision and plans to grow the right lawn in the = right manner. \par=20 \par Even the \ldblquote anti-turf enthusiasts\rdblquote will admit = that a properly designed, properly placed, properly maintained turf area = does have a place in many desert dwellers\rquote home s. Turf areas make excellent play areas for children and pets or even = entertaining adults, they do actually cool a house and yard which does = reduce total water and electric use for the household, and they can be = esthetically pleasing. Mowed and maintain ed at the proper height, they will not bloom or spread pollen \endash = in fact, turf areas are excellent for filtering the air of many other = airborne pollutants and irritants. }{\fs24\ul Planned properly}{\fs24 , = }{\fs24\ul planted properly}{\fs24 and } {\fs24\ul maintained properly}{\fs24 , a turf area is actually a s mart item for most property owners. If these steps are not thought out = and carried through correctly though, an improperly planned, incorrectly = planted and poorly maintained turf will be a definite mistake and will = certainly live up to all the anti-turf=20 comments you have heard. Read through the following information as you = plan your yard or lawn renovation or planting. \par=20 \par }\pard\plain \s15\widctlpar\adjustright \cgrid {Before you plant, = PLAN PROPERLY \endash 1) SIZE - discuss with your spouse and kids how = much lawn they need or want for play use and how large=20 an area are you willing to maintain, 2) KIND - do a little simple = research to learn about the correct type of lawngrass for your situation = (full sun or shaded, high or low level of play use, more use planned for = summer or winter seasons, what level of la wn care and budget do you want, etc.?) \endash we have only a very = limited selection of grasses to choose from in the low desert due to our = winter to summer temperature extremes, so choose correctly \endash=20 keep in mind that just because its offered for sale at your local = garden center, it is not necessarily appropriate for your climate and = the grass variety or kind you grew in your yard \ldblquote back = home\rdblquote is most likely }{\ul not adapted}{ to our climate}{\ul ,}{ 3) LOCATION \endash do you really want a turf = area in your tiny front yard where the children are not allowed to play = due to traffic, or should it be in your backyard where it can be used = and enjoyed by the entire family=20 \endash grass is a sun loving plant so where in your yard will it get = the best sun exposure, 4) WATER \endash investigate and plan a good automatic irrigation system to make your lawn a lot happier and = a lot healthier, plus to reduce waste of this precious commodity \endash = look on the expense of a good lawn irrigation system as an investment, = not a cost \endash=20 a properly watered & maintained lawn, planted to the correct turf = species does not have to be a water waster, as many turfgrass species = such as the bermudagrasses are known for their drought tolerance. \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24=20 \par Next step would be to PLANT PROPERLY \endash as with any perennial = garden planting, your soi l preparation and planting process will have an enormous impact on the = long term health and success of your lawn. Good detailed information on = lawn preparation and planting is available from local lawn seed or sod = suppliers, as well as the University of=20 Arizona and your local Extension office. Bottom line, }{\fs24\ul = prepare the soil well}{\fs24 \endash don\rquote=20 t just throw the grass sod or seed on top of the soil and expect it to = thrive. A poorly prepared lawn soil will mean long or short term = failure and will certainly cause you to waste water in trying to keep = your struggling turf alive. \par=20 \par }\pard\plain \s15\widctlpar\adjustright \cgrid {Last and just as = important, MAINTAIN PROPERLY \endash think of your turfgrass plants as = if they were trees or shrubs in your landscape. If you don\rquote=20 t maintain them well, they will be more susceptible=20 to stress from temperature extremes, disease, insects, etc. and will = require larger inputs of chemicals, water, time and energy just to stay = alive. As the weather changes, check with your local water company or = in the gardening section of the newspaper f or correct water amounts for the various times of the year. Remember = again that your lawn is a group of garden plants \endash you certainly = don\rquote t water your trees, flowers or vegetables the same amount all = year. AND, please don\rquote=20 t copy your neighbor in your lawn maintenance practices, merely assuming they know what is best for your = yard also. Just because a nearby homeowner waters his lawn at midnight = twice a week, or the local golf course waters their fairways every = morning for 20 minutes or your local school=20 or park mows twice a month immediately after fertilizing DOES NOT mean = that you should do the same \endash you surely don\rquote=20 t butcher your old mulberry trees, just because that guy at the end of = the block does it every year? Correct turfgrass maintenance (mowing,=20 fertilizing, watering, overseeding, etc.) differs drastically from site = to site depending on the soil type, the mowing height, sun exposure, = amount of use or play, the grass variety or kind planted, disease and = insect pests present, and many other factors . Read the materials provided by your local garden center or Extension = office, take a class in turfgrass maintenance at your local college or = even attend the desert turfgrass session planned for the upcoming Low = Desert Gardening Conference in late July. =20 Since you are all plant interested people, start thinking of your lawn = as a grouping or planting of long-lived perennial plants and treat them = as such, rather than as The Great Mystery. \par }\pard\plain \widctlpar\adjustright \fs20\cgrid {\fs24=20 \par Whatever your decision, please enjoy your lawn and hopefully it = will enjoy being yours for many years to come. \par }} ------=_NextPart_000_008D_01C028C8.AA3A6DA0-- From Mike Hills" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello Doug - No, in most cases "Perennial Ryegrass" seed does not come = back the second winter. Even though the word "perennial" means = permanent or regrowing each year, it must be replanted each Fall in the = southern bermudagrass zone. In areas where perennial ryegrass is used = as a permanent base grass (the Midwest and Northeast USA) this is a = permanent grass that continues to grow each year. But in the southern = bermudagrass belt, the ryegrass usually cannot stand up to our 115 = degrees with summer humidtiy. Most of the ryegrass plants die out each = summer, which is actually good since it allows the base bermudagrass to = regrow and create a strong sod for better wear tolerance. A = scattering of ryegrass plants may make it through the heat and humidity, = especially any plants that are shaded or in better drained soil. Otherwise, let your bermuda base keep growing happy and healthy until = sometime between mid-October and mid-November. As the day temperatures = hit 90 and start staying 90 or below, it is time to plant your winter = lawn. Mow the bermuda as short as you can, removing the clippings = this time. Scatter Perennial Ryegrass seed at 10-15 pounds per 1,000 = square feet and lightly topdress it with mulch (maximum 1/4 inch deep). = There are many different varieties and branded blends of perennial = ryegrass that are available in local garden centers and nurseries - as = long as the label says "Perennial Ryegrass" then they all perform very = similarly in this area. Be sure that you do not buy "Annual = Ryegrass" seed as this can be a messy, high maintenance grass all winter = long - grows too fast and lush, requiring a lot more mowing and the = cuttings are wet and messy, staining clothes, sidewalks, walls, etc. = Perennial Ryegrass seed is far superior in color, texture, wear = tolerance, mowability, etc. Good Luck Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County ---------------- -----Original Message----- From: Douglas Anderson To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:38 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: =20 =20 =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 A Subject: Fw:=20 =20 =20 =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Douglas Anderson=20 To: arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM =20 =20 I planted a winter lawn for the first time last fall with perennial = ryegrass. Will this grass come back on its own once the weather cools = off? ------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello Doug  -  No, in most = cases=20 "Perennial Ryegrass" seed does not come back the second=20 winter.    Even though the word "perennial" = means=20 permanent or regrowing each year, it must be replanted each Fall in the = southern=20 bermudagrass zone.    In areas where perennial ryegrass = is used=20 as a permanent base grass (the Midwest and Northeast USA) this is a = permanent=20 grass that continues to grow each year.    But in the = southern=20 bermudagrass belt, the ryegrass usually cannot stand up to our 115 = degrees with=20 summer humidtiy.   Most of the ryegrass plants die out each = summer,=20 which is actually good since it allows the base bermudagrass to regrow = and=20 create a strong sod for better wear tolerance.     A = scattering of ryegrass plants may make it through the heat and humidity, = especially any plants that are shaded or in better drained = soil.
 
Otherwise, let your bermuda base keep growing happy = and=20 healthy until sometime between mid-October and mid-November.   = As the=20 day temperatures hit 90 and start staying 90 or below, it is time to = plant your=20 winter lawn.     Mow the bermuda as short as you = can,=20 removing the clippings this time.    Scatter Perennial = Ryegrass=20 seed at 10-15 pounds per 1,000 square feet and lightly topdress it with = mulch=20 (maximum 1/4 inch deep).     There are many = different=20 varieties and branded blends of perennial ryegrass that are available in = local=20 garden centers and nurseries - as long as the label says "Perennial = Ryegrass" then they all perform very similarly in this=20 area.     Be sure that you do not buy "Annual=20 Ryegrass" seed as this can be a messy, high maintenance grass all = winter=20 long - grows too fast and lush, requiring a lot more mowing and the = cuttings are=20 wet and messy, staining clothes, sidewalks, walls, = etc.   =20 Perennial Ryegrass seed is far superior in color, texture, wear = tolerance,=20 mowability, etc.
 
Good Luck
Mike Hills
Master Gardener, Maricopa County
----------------
-----Original = Message-----
From:=20 Douglas Anderson <dg.anderson@home.com>
T= o:=20 arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= =20 <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu= >
Date:=20 Tuesday, September 26, 2000 2:38 PM
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: = Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 6:49 A
Subject: Fw:

 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: = Douglas=20 Anderson
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2000 11:35 AM

I planted a winter lawn for the = first time last=20 fall with perennial ryegrass.  Will this grass come back on its = own=20 once the weather cools off?
------=_NextPart_000_00E7_01C028CD.452911A0-- From Mike Hills" Dear Debbie - one question for you - where are you located? This could make a difference in the suggestions and response. If you are in the Desert Southwest, then the lavender probably died from a root rot problem which is a very common cause of death to lavender plants in our part of the world in the summer. Lavenders need excellent drainage and our southwestern soils tend to be fairly high in clay which drains poorly. It is possible that the ants may have disturbed the roots and made them more susceptible to summer root rot, but usually ants do not harm plants such as an established lavender plant. Wait until October or November to replant your new lavender. First though, be sure that you dig a deep hole, much larger than the potted plant that you buy from the garden center. The Desert Botanical Garden has an upcoming plant sale that is an excellent source of herb plants and also has a booth from the Arizona Herb Association to answer questions and give advice. Backfill the hole with coarse bark, pebbles, sand, etc. and then your planting mix and plant the new lavender plant. DO NOT leave a hole in the soil around the base of the lavender pkant, as this collects too much water and moisture around the stem, which can lead to another death by root rot. In fact, the lavender plants tend to do better planted on a slight rise, with an irrigation dripper several inches away from the plant's main stem Check out the recommended books section of our University of Arizona, Maricopa County Master Gardener website - we have several basic books listed that include excellent information on growing herbs in the low desert climate. Good Luck, Mike Hills -----Original Message----- From: MADASMITH@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Friday, September 15, 2000 8:55 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >I HAD A BEAUTIFUL LAVENDER THAT WAS QUITE LARGE AND DOING WONDERFUL, ALL OF A SUDDEN IT DIED IN A TOTAL OF THREE DAYS. WHEN I DUG IT UP THE SOIL SURRONDING IT UNDERGROUND WAS COVERED BY RED ANTS. COULD THE ANTS HAVE KILLED IT AND SHOULD I BE WORRIED THAT THEY WILL KILL MY OTHER PLANTS. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR TIME.DEBBIE SMITH > > From Mike Hills" Santa Ana is a hybrid bermudagrass variety that does not produce pollen in those bermuda flowers that you see, and does not produce seed. With no pollen, your allergic reaction to bermuda pollen will not happen on your Santa Ana lawn. But, a person allergic to bermuda can still react to the proteins in the bermudagrass stems, so it is not recommended that you sit bare legged on freshly cut bermuda. Keep the bermuda happy with adequate water and fertilizer levels and it will bloom less. Also, generally keeping it mowed once a week will keep the bermuda from blossoming as much. Santa Ana grows best when mowed with a reel mower, but a rotary mower can be used. The rotary mower just does not cut this close growing bermuda quite as well as a reel mower will. In general reel mowers are more expensive, but if your lawn area is small and you are looking to burn a few calories, then buy a good old fashioned Push Mower (reel). Does an excellent job on Santa Ana and other hybrid, sod-type bermuda varieties. Good Luck, Mike Hills Master Gardener, Maricopa County Turfgrass Agronomist, Seed Research of Oregon ------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: georgerandle@netzero.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Saturday, September 16, 2000 7:58 PM Subject: [AG] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Is Santa Ana grass truly non-allergenic? Mine gets some seed tops on it. Also does it require a rotary (front throw) mower? > > From kgner@extremezone.com Thu Sep 28 15:51:21 2000 From: kgner@extremezone.com (kgner@extremezone.com) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 08:51:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009281551.IAA27319@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a 24"box shamel ash tree in May. It has maintained it's health during the summer, but has barely grown. I've noticed some new buds on the branches and wondered if I should give it some fertilizer. I have only given it B12 so far. It is the "uedi" variety. I have asked various sources about this and have gotten conflicting information from each source. I'd appreciate your help. Thanks. From danopato@mindspring.com Thu Sep 28 21:59:49 2000 From: danopato@mindspring.com (danopato@mindspring.com) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 14:59:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009282159.OAA14772@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How to get rid of Caterpiller's from eating up a Purple Passion Plant without damage to plant? From alague628@aol.com Thu Sep 28 23:58:03 2000 From: alague628@aol.com (alague628@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 16:58:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009282358.QAA08048@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live in Prescott. Our seven? foot apricot tree has areas on the bark of the trunk that are splitting and oozing. What is this? What should/can we do about it? Will the tree survive? We had wonderful fruit this summer and we hope we can successfully treat this problem. Thanks, a From clydic@netzone.com Fri Sep 29 00:37:36 2000 From: clydic@netzone.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 17:37:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200009282358.QAA08048@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Contact Jeff Schalau, Yavapai Co Ext Agent, there in Prescott at 445-6590. He's a good tree man. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of alague628@aol.com Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 4:58 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Prescott. Our seven? foot apricot tree has areas on the bark of the trunk that are splitting and oozing. What is this? What should/can we do about it? Will the tree survive? We had wonderful fruit this summer and we hope we can successfully treat this problem. Thanks, a _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Sep 29 00:50:34 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 20:50:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash, newly planted not showing growth Message-ID: <79.a29635a.2705415a@aol.com> Newly planted trees planted in hot weather especially non native trees will rarely show much growth until they become established. The fact that you are seeing new buds and the tree looks healthy is certainly encouraging. I would not be too concerned at this point. Many factors affect the growth of a tree, but proper irigation will affect more than anything else. I would wait until next spring to apply fertilizer, then be sure that the nitrogen content of the fertilizer is moderate. Check out these websites on irrigation and tree care: Irrigation http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Arborculture and tree care http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:20:39 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:20:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Passion vine References: <200009282159.OAA14772@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D4A537.96A0B15A@uswest.net> Like the proverbial moth to a flame, these caterpillars [gulf fritillary butterfly according to Sunset] will return year after year. This is their favorite food, and I speak from personal experience. Be on the look out each year for the first sign of invasion and regularly use a biological control specific for caterpillars called Bt [bacillus thurengensis, but don't quote my spelling!]. Follow application instructions on the particular product you select. Some passifloras are deciduous, so if the leaves begin to brown and fall this autumn, wait until next spring to see if new growth returns anew. I used to cut my vines down to a foot following Halloween [liked the spooky effect of all the dead vines hanging on my house!]. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener danopato@mindspring.com wrote: > How to get rid of Caterpiller's from eating up a Purple Passion Plant without damage to plant? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:25:06 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:25:06 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control] Message-ID: <39D4A641.3F31FC9F@uswest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks to all of you who provided your insights. Mike Hills' response is so good I believe that all of you would probably be evenly moderately interested! At least we have some additional ideas for identification, as well as treatment. --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 86242 invoked by uid 0); 28 Sep 2000 07:15:12 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Sep 2000 07:15:12 -0000 Received: (qmail 57770 invoked from network); 28 Sep 2000 07:15:11 -0000 Received: from cpimssmtpu01.email.msn.com (HELO smtp.email.msn.com) (207.46.181.26) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 28 Sep 2000 07:15:11 -0000 Received: from mhills - 209.83.1.10 by email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:13:10 -0700 Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 00:07:20 -0700 Message-ID: <023d01c0291c$f7c85ba0$a009a8c0@mhills> From: "Mike Hills" To: "Linda Guy" Reply-To: "Mike Hills" Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.2106.4 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.2106.4 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda - have you seen the article below? Maybe this is already in your files? In reality, Pearl Scale is not anywhere near the problem that most people think it is. Usually a lawn thinning out is caused by many many other things first, and pearl scale is a handy bogeyman to lay the blame on. My understanding on Merit is that it may actually not be available to public - instead I belive it is a commercial professional only product. I have only seen pearl scale a very few times, and I think that Sharon Dewey has said the same thing repeatedly. I would suggest that you direct your question to both Terry Mikel and Dr. Dave Langston at Maricopa Agricultural Center (langston@ag.arizona.edu), as well as Dr. Dave Kopec at the UofA Karsten Turfgrass Research Center in Tucson (DKopec@ag.arizona.edu) for more specific answers to be used in hhomeowner situations. Terry played with Pearl Scale for many years at the Extension office - in fact, his pearl scale "nursery" was the old Midiron Bermuda sodded area where Cathy Cromell now has her Bulb Demo Garden. Truth usually is that seeded bermuda varieties are more tolerant of Pearl Scale and seem to outgrow it as they are more vigorous growers - keep the grass un-stressed and it can tolerate a Pearl Scale infestation. Even the hybrid sod bermudas can tolerate most levels of Pearl Scale as long as the other care and maintenance factors in the lawn are up-to-speed and the grass is kept as healthy as possible. As with most plants, keep it healthy and it can tolerate a little problem and stay alive. Hope this is a little helpful??? mike hills ---------------------- PEARL SCALE OR GROUND PEARL AND YOUR LAWN By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Pearl Scale information: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC45, write to 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video Write: Sharon Dewey, Western Sod, P.O. Box 10610, Casa Grande, AZ 85230 Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional, a local turfgrass troubleshooter and a Master Gardener with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Dave Langston, Ph.D. is the Superintendent of the Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center, an Extension Specialist in Entomology with the University of Arizona. He can be reached at langston@ag.arizona.edu or write to 37860 W. Smith-Enke Rd., Maricopa, AZ 85239-3010. ____________________ -----Original Message----- From: Linda Guy To: Arid gardener server Date: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 3:29 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Control >[Being resent do to last week's server problems.] > >I'm interested in hearing feedback on last Wednesday's Republic garden >blurb on controlling pearl scale. I've never been happy with our site's >limited recommendation that little can be done. I guess I want to give >folks something to do! >http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm > >A gentleman wrote from Scottsdale with advice received from Harper's to >wit regular treatment with Merit [what sort of insecticide is this >and/or its active ingredients?] to at least manage the scale population >and application of a water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. >Lowering the soil pH makes the scale's habitat less hospitable since it >prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job, but rather kept >the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from >spreading. > >What say you folks who've fought the good fight? Any other treatment >suggestions? > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------81E5677094CB59D3784CF693-- From JGibson@TriWest.com Fri Sep 29 14:53:39 2000 From: JGibson@TriWest.com (JGibson@TriWest.com) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:53:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Alternatives? Message-ID: I am looking for alternative grasses that would handle our heat but not be susceptible to Pearl Scale. Any suggestions? St. Augustine? Santa Ana? Tiff? I was told that it only attacks Bermuda Hybrids. Is this true? Are there any other non-allergenic grasses that could work? Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 14:49:55 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 07:49:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jasmine References: <200009110324.UAA06345@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D4AC12.5E47549@uswest.net> I am only familiar with star jasmine, which is widely planted in Arizona, but which isn't even a true jasmine. Be that as it may, I would suspect chlorosis at first. We have a good summary of the condition at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/chlorsis.htm Before you fiddle with nutrient deficiencies, understand that there may be adequate soil levels of what your plant needs [particularly if it grew well before], but your watering practice is keeping the necessary oxygen for the transfer too low. So, amending your irrigating to less frequent but deep watering [ensure that 2-3' of the soil is moist, which can be ascertained by the depth you can easily sink a rod into damp soil] is the first step of managing the problem. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener billd@compuserve.com wrote: > We live in Sun Lakes. The tips on the leaves on our night blooming jasmine plant all turn yellow. They come out green, but > after a few days the edges turn yellow. We > have grown this plant in other parts of the > country without problems, but this problem > is new to us. Any suggestions? From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 15:01:02 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:01:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Bound References: <200009070126.SAA23718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D4AEAE.D98E9183@uswest.net> This is a condition where a plant outgrows its container and the roots continue to grow, wrapping round and round. If the root ball is not loosened, and in some cases the binding roots cut free or untangled, the roots will strangle themselves if planted this way in the soil. You could see this by gently digging around your ash tree. I make it a practice to return such stock to the nursery for a replacement or refund, at least on everything 5 gallon size or larger to avoid losing my investment. Shamel ashes can tend to shallow rooting if you do not water them deeply. That means to a soil depth of three feet at least. They can succumb to root rot http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/root-rot.htm but I believe that a more established and well cared for tree has a chance of weathering it. I suppose you can root cuttings of your mesquite. Make a clean cut, apply a rooting hormone, and keep in moist medium until rooted. The easiest suggestion I could make is to let the pods stay on the ground. From personal experience, I guarantee you'll have several dozen volunteers to dig up by the following spring/summer. Linda Guy Master Gardener firehousefour@home.com wrote: > I'm hoping you can help answer a few questions for me.What is root bound and can it be fixed? Also I'm having a problem with a Shamel Ash it is about 4 years old and is not growing,I know it is getting enough water,is it possible it is bound? Last but not least can a person grow mesquite from cuttings ... Thank You From lindaguy@uswest.net Fri Sep 29 15:07:40 2000 From: lindaguy@uswest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 08:07:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocktail Trees References: <200009081614.JAA02197@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <39D4B03B.51CDD1DF@uswest.net> Your question has been around for a while and although I know that the citrus cocktail trees are available [you can learn how to create one at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf ] I can't remember who sells them in the valley. My best advice is to contact Greenfield Citrus Nursery for assistance and/or referrals. http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Many of us have succumbed to growing the unusual or even bizarre plant now and again just to see what it was like or if we could grow it in an area otherwise inhospitable. Unless your potato/tomato plant is dreadfully expensive, it might be fun to try. They are both Solanaceae. But you should be cautioned that in the low desert, each one grows at slightly different times of year. You may need to coddle this baby in a large container. Write back and let us know what happens! Linda Guy Master Gardener jennifer.hogebaum@schwab.com wrote: > Does anyone have any information on fruit coctail trees? I have seen the citrus and fruit cocktail trees but I am a little leary about the Tomatoe-Potatoe tree that I saw on the web... Here is the link... http://www.cybersol.com/springriver/Tompot2.htm > > Do you believe it? Should I believe it could be possible? Help me! I'm tempted to buy this plant! From Carleneebr@aol.com Fri Sep 29 18:39:06 2000 From: Carleneebr@aol.com (Carleneebr@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 11:39:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009291839.LAA09874@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This may not be the place for this question, but can you tell me where to obtain informatioon on planting trees and gardens in Young Az. or the Payson area since they are both the same climate. We recently purchased land with lots of old apple and pear trees and need to know how to care for them. Tthank you, Carlene From gmgvt@aol.com Fri Sep 29 19:28:12 2000 From: gmgvt@aol.com (gmgvt@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 12:28:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009291928.MAA19113@Ag.Arizona.Edu> WE are getting ready to put in a garden area at a senior residential community. WE know we need fencing to keep the rabbits out - but we don't know how high the fencing needs to be. Do we need to make it high enough to discourage quail? Thanks for any assistance you can offer. From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Sep 29 17:46:18 2000 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:46:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: leafhoppers or spittlebugs? Message-ID: <000001c02a4f$46ce92e0$f409a8c0@mhills> Dan Garnett - I may have been a little hasty on my ID of your problem on your herb plants as Sharpshooter Leafhoppers, but these frothy balls you describe on your herb plants are definitely an insect (not a fungus or other disease) - I believe that they could be another small, relatively harmless insect called a 'spittlebug'. Basically the insect is sucking liquid out of the plant to feed on and then passes some of the excess out the other end and uses it to create the froth as a camouflage to help it hide from birds and other predators. If we are describing the same insect to each other, these balls of foam are about 1/4 to 3/4 inches across and usually near the tips of the plant branches and twigs, where the plant tissue is more tender and easier to pierce. Rinsing them off with the garden hose is the best method to get rid of them and to my knowledge they are not harmful. Some sucking insects do carry and transmit virus or bacterial diseases, but the plants that you describe in your concerns should not have any problems with this. If you are still unsure, poke around in one of the frothy balls of foam and you will find a small insect feeding on the plant stem deep inside the foam - usually about 1/4 inch long. If you wanted to, you could take a piece of the plant with foam and insect intact to the Extensions Office at 4341 E. Broadway to drop off for identification at the next plant problem clinic - if you catch a Master Gardener on duty, they may even be able to answer your questions when you are there. Put it in a sealed jar with some tiny air holes in the lid. mike hills ---------------------------------- >Thanks for the information. I was a bit surprised by the answer >because I've seen leafhoppers before, and that wasn't my initial >visual impression. But I should have another, closer look. > >We have hosed them off, and otherwise the plants look very healthy, >so as you say they probably are not harming them. We were more >concerned about whether they might damage other plants we have >(lantana, silk-oak, bottle-brush). > >Interestingly, I searched the web for sharpshooter leafhopper info >and got a swarm of sites on glassy-winged and blue-green sharpshooters >which are apparently transmitting bacterial diseases to wine grapes >and citrus in California. These are large (1/2") leafhoppers and >don't fit the description of what we see. > > Regards, > Don Garnett ----------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Don Garnett > To: mhills_sro@msn.com > Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 11:32 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question: beetles on rosemary, salvia - a threat? > >> These insects are not harmful to your herb plants in most cases. I >> believe from your description that these are commonly referred to as >> Sharpshooter Leafhoppers. My own herbs, as well as those at the Arizona >> Herb Association's demonstration garden at the Cooperative Extension >> office in Phoenix, are infested with these each summer. > Mike Hills From mhills@seedsolutions.com Fri Sep 29 17:50:18 2000 From: mhills@seedsolutions.com (Mike Hills) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 10:50:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lavender Message-ID: <000301c02a4f$57f60da0$f409a8c0@mhills> Debbie - For your question about where to buy replacement lavender plants, here are some great upcoming plant sales that all usually have various herb plants for sale, as well as many many many other great landscaping and xeriscape plants for your fall planting needs. Usually the easiest lavender varieties to grow in the desert southwest are - 'Spanish Lavender', 'French Lavender' (green, not the gray one), 'Grosso Lavender' - these all smell a little different from each other, so try them out to make sure they are the smell you like the best. The 'English Lavender' varieties do not thrive here and are generally very disappointing, unless you plant them under filtered shade such as a tree or partial overhang and baby them along through the hot part of the year. Desert Botanical Garden - Phoenix, AZ - tel #(480)941-1225 - Fall Plant Sale October 20 (members only) - Oct. 21-22 for general public OR at the Master Gardener Interpretive Trail Fall Garden Fair - October 28th (9am - 2pm) at the Maricopa County Extension Office - 4341 East Broadway Rod - Phoenix, AZ. Arizona Herb Association will have an information booth with herb plants for sale, along with lots of other local gardening clubs with information and plants for sale on many other plants - flowers, vegetables, old fashioned roses, irises, etc. OR at the Boyce Thompson Arboretum - Hwy 60, Superior, AZ - Fall Plant Sale with lots of different xeriscape and landscape plants, along with a selection of herb plants - October 14th weekend and onwards for a couple of other weekends Feel free to attend the upcoming meetings of the Arizona Herb Association - Thursday Oct. 5 at 7pm at the Pueblo Grande Museum Community Room. Topic next week is Historical and Mystical herb Lore, but we also have a period of questions and answers on herb growing problems. We will probably have some plants for sale at our November regular meeting - same location - topic will be Herbal Gift Making and Giving. Both meetings are free to the general public as guests. Good Luck with your herb gardening, Mike Hills --------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: MADASMITH@aol.com > To: mhills_sro@msn.com > Date: Thursday, September 28, 2000 6:54 AM Subject: Re: [AG] Lavender & Ants >Thank you for your reply. I probably over watered. When and where is the >plant sale you mentioned? I would like to check it out. >Thanks again for your time and your knowledge. >Take Care >Debbie > Mike Hills From dbilduci@tempeschools.com Fri Sep 29 21:58:55 2000 From: dbilduci@tempeschools.com (dbilduci@tempeschools.com) Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 14:58:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200009292158.OAA18875@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a palm plant that is yellowing at the ends. What does it need, besides water and vitamin sticks? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Sep 30 23:23:13 2000 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2000 19:23:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] New Rose Garden Message-ID: Planting your roses on the east side of a west wall is a good choice so that the roses can get some relief from the hot PM summer sun. I would suggest that you plant the roses on the south side of the elm tree, again so that the roses can enjoy alittle more shade in summer and be open to the sun in winter. Be sure to plant far enough away from the tree so that you won't have root interferance. Why not visit the Mesa Community College Rose Garden in November where you will see over 3000 roses, most of which will be in bloom. Better yet come on November 18 and enjoy the Mesa East Valley Rose Society's annual rose show held in the Student Center and open to the public from 1.00 to 4.00 pm. Following is a list of roses recommended for the low desert, also a list of fragrant roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian ROSES THAT LOVE OUR HEAT Marylou Coffman & Rod McKusick These are a few suggestions out of thousands of possibilities of roses that will grow well in southern Arizona. It is generally agreed that roses purchased at a retail nursery/garden center are superior to those found at discount nurseries or chain-stores. Always select grade #1. Hybrid Tea roses and Miniatures are probably the two most popular types of roses but there are many other choices. Most types vary by flower shape/size, bush size/growth habit, and bloom season & length. So go out and explore the possibilities! HYBRID TEAS Abracadabra Ain't She Sweet (or) Anne M. Lindburgh (pb) Artistry (op) 7.6 Barbara Bush (pb) 7.5 Billy Graham (lp) Blue Moon (m) 5.9 Brandy (ab) 7.0 Bride's Dream (lp) 8.0 Brigadoon (rb) 7.9 Camara (or) Capt.Christopher Columbus(ob) Celebrity (dy) 7.1 Chicago Peace (pb) 7.5 Chris Evert (ob) 7.4 Chrysler Imperial (dr) 7.8 Classic Touch (lp) Color Magic (pb) 8.2 Coral Fiesta (or) Crystalline (w) 7.8 Dainty Bess (lp) 9.0 Desert Peace (yb) 7.6 Dolly Parton (or) 7.4 Donna Darlin' (rb) Double Delight (rb) 8.7 Dublin (mr) 8.5 Elizabeth Taylor (dp) 8.8 Elina (w) 8.9 Elsie Melton (pb) Esther Geldenhus (op) 7.7 First Prize (pb) 8.9 Fountain Square (or) 7.6 Fragrant Cloud (or) 8.3 Capt. Harry Stebbings (dp) 8.1 Heaven (pb) Henry Fonda Honor (w) 7.5 Ingrid Bergman (dr) 7.1 Jane Pauley (or) Korlingo (mr) 8.5 Lanvin (ly) 7.1 Legend (mr) Lobo (rb) 7.2 Magic Lantern (ob) Midas Touch (dy) Mikado (rb) 7.1 Mister Lincoln (dr) 8.8 New Zealand (lp) Olympiad (mr) 9.1 Paradise (m) 8.3 Peace (yb) 6.8 Perfect Moment (rb) 7.5 Prima Donna (dp) 7.5 Pristine (w) 9.2 Rio Samba (yb) Royal Highness (lp) 8.2 Secret (pb) Sheer Bliss (w) 7.8 Sheer Elegance (op) 7.7 Silverado (m) 7.5 St. Patrick (yb) The Temptations (pb) Tineke (w) Touch of Class (op) 9.5 Tropicana (or) 7.6 Ultimate Pink (p) FLORIBUNDAS Angel Face (m) 8.1 Brass Band (ab) Bridal Pink(m) 8.4 Brite Lights (my) 7.4 Cherish (op) 8.4 Hiroshima's Children (yb)7.5 Class Act (w) 7.5 Columbus (dp) 7.6 Dicky (op) 8.8 Escapade (m) 8.8 Europeana (dr) 9.0 French Lace (w) 8.2 Gene Boerner (mp) 8.5 Iceberg (w) 8.7 Intrigue (m) 6.8 Ivory Fashion (w) 8.6 Judy Garland (yb) 7.5 Kanagem (or) 8.4 Koricole(w) 9.0 Lavaglut (dr) 8.4 Love Potion Oranges & Lemons (ob) Origami (pd) 7.7 Playboy (rb) 8.1 Playgirl (mp) 8.1 Purple Tiger (m) Sabrabande (or) 8.0 Sexy Rexy (mp) 9.0 Showbiz (mr) 8.6 Summer Fashion (yb) 8.0 Sunsprite (dy) 8.0 MINIATURES Anita Charles (op) 7.2 Arizona Sunset (yb) 8.0 Beauty Secret (mr) 8.4 Black Jade (dr) 8.3 Captivation (or) Carrot Top (ob) Chelsea Belle (mr) 7.7 Child's Play (w) Elfinglo (m) 7.6 Fairhope (ly) 7.8 Fancy Pants (rb) 8.3 Figurine (w) 7.9 Golden Beauty (yb) 8.1 Good Morning America(my) 7.5 Gourmet Popcorn (w) 8.4 Hot Tamale (rb) Incognito Irresistible (w) 8.0 Jean Kenneally (ab) 9.7 Jingle Bells Joycie (ob) 7.4 June Laver (dy) 7.9 Just For You (dp) 8.0 Kingig (mp) 9.0 Kristin (rb) Linville (w) 7.8 Little Artist (rb) 8.5 Luis Desamero (ly) 7.7 Magic Carrousel (rb) 9.0 Melody Lane (7.4) Minie Pearl(pb) 9.4 Mothers Love (pb) 7.8 My Sunshine (my) 8.7 Old Glory (mr) 7.8 Over The Rainbow (rb) 8.3 Pacesetter (w) 8.6 Pierrine ( op) 9.4 Popcorn (w) 8.3 Pucker Up (or) 8.2 Red Beauty (dr) 8.4 Rise'n'Shine (my) 7.4 Santa Claus (dr) Snow Bride (w) 9.3 MINIATURES CONTINUED Starina (or) 9.0 Sweet Chariot (m) 7.7 Tennessee(op) 8.1 Whoopi (rb) 7.4 X-Rated (pb) POLYANTHAS Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 China Doll (mp) 8.3 The Fairy (lp) 8.7 SHRUBS & AUSTIN ROSES Abraham Darby (op) 7.8 Ballerina (mp) 9.0 Belle Story (lp) 8.5 Dortmund (mr) 9.1 Fisherman's Friend (dr) 8.0 Graham Thomas (dy) 7.9 Heritage (lp) 8.7 Mary Rose (mp) 8.7 Othello (mr) 7.1 Peach Blossom (ab) Perdita (ab) Sally Holmes (w) 8.9 Stretch Johnson (rb) 8.0 The Reeve (dp) 8.0 GRANDIFLORAS Arizona (ob) 5.8 Gold Metal (my) 8.8 Love (rb) 7.1 Queen Elizabeth (mp) 9.0 OLD GARDEN ROSES Austrian Copper (rb) 8.1 R. banksiae banksiae(w) 8.6 Baronne Prevost (mp) 8.5 Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 Cl. Cecile Brunner (lp) 8.0 Madame Hardy Old Blush (mp) 8.3 R. Rouletti (mp) 6.7 Rose de Rescht (dp) 8.6 Rose du Roi (mr) 7.6 Russelliana (m) 8.2 Sombreuil (w) 8.8 The Green Rose (w) 7.4 Will Scarlet (mr) 8.2 FRAGRANT ROSES Ain't She Sweet (or) America (op) 8.8 Angel Face (m) 8.1 Arizona (ob) 5.8 Miss AllAmericanBeauty(op)8.2 Blue Girl (m) 5.8 Brandy (ab) 7.0 Breathless (dp) Cathedral Celebrity (dy) 7.1 Cherish (op) 8.3 Chrysler Imperial (dr) 7.8 Command Performance(or) 6.7 Dolly Parton (or) 7.4 Don Juan (dr) 8.2 Double Delight (rb) 8.9 Fragrant Cloud (or) 8.3 Fragrant Memory (mp) 7.2 French Lace (w) 8.2 French Perfume (yb) Friendship (dp) 7.4 Glory Days (mp) 7.2 Granada (rb) 8.3 Heirloom (m) 6.3 Iceberg (w) 8.7 Intrigue (m) 6.8 Legend (mr) Love (rb) 7.1 Medallion (ab) 6.7 Mr. Lincoln (dr) 8.8 Papa Meilland (dr) 7.3 Perfume Delight (mp) 7.6 Purple Tiger (m) Queen Elizabeth (mp) 9.0 Rose Parade (pb) 7.0 Saratoga (w) 6.9 Secret (pb) Sheer Bliss (w) 7.8 Summer Fashion (yb) 8.0 Sun Flare (my) 8.1 Sunsprite (dy) 8.7 Sutters Gold (ob) 5.7 Sweet Surrender (mp) 6.6 Taboo (dr) Tiffany (pb) 8.3) From Mike Hills" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0" ------=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Another article on turfgrass planning that may help in your plans =20 ------------------------------ TURFGRASS "DONE RIGHT"!! Mike Hills =96 Maricopa County Master Gardener Turfgrass Agronomist & Plant Breeder for Seed Research of Oregon, = Inc. Some MG=92s and other area plant experts are almost "anti-turf" in = their attitude toward lawns and turf in the Low Desert growing regions. = They want to concentrate their efforts and space to growing vegetables, = flowers, herbs and other plants and do not feel that turf has a place in = their scheme, or even any place in this climate. Actually though, a = turfgrass area that is properly designed, selected, prepared, planted, = watered and maintained has a definite place in the Low Desert. In fact, = it can directly benefit the property owner in numerous ways. These = benefits of course include the use of the area for recreation and = leisure activities. Additionally, researchers at the University of = Arizona have proven repeatedly that turfgrass "done right" can actually = reduce overall energy and water needs in a household. This is very = similar to the household energy benefits that we are all familiar with = for properly chosen, planted and maintained trees. The key to gaining these benefits from our lawn areas lies in this = "done right" point. We must start with the correct design =96 and this = does not mean random kidney bean-shaped grass areas in a home=92s front = yard. Place the turf area where it will be the most useful and provide = the most benefit to the actual living space of the home - the backyard = where children can play safely and the cooling effects of the turf can = be enjoyed the most. Few desert dwellers play and entertain in their = front yards these days. Once you have chosen the most beneficial = location, design and installation of an efficient irrigation system is = the next step, followed by proper soil preparation. Good watering and = well prepared soil will go a long way to keep your turf in the = healthiest, most water efficient state possible for the longest term. NOW comes the absolute crucial step =96 choosing the right grass to = plant. Rushing through this or making a poor decision will negate all = other efforts and keep the gardener always working harder, with no = chance of success. Just as with many other plants, we do find = non-adapted turf choices offered for sale in the Low Desert. Definitely = a case of "Buyer Beware" or "Buyer Be Aware" =96 turf gardeners should = not assume that all items offered for sale are meant to be planted here. = Our extreme climate (freezing to 120 degrees range), as well as our soil = and water quality drastically limits the turf species list that we = should be choosing from. This summer, we will be planting a set of turf plots behind the = Maricopa County Extension Office, showing the limited species that are = at all adapted to this region (plots will be planted with both sodded = and seeded varieties for comparison). MG=92s will be able to observe = these turf plots throughout the year to educate themselves and the = homeowner public. The bottom line for Low Desert dwellers is BERMUDAGRASS - sod or = seed, but plant some type of bermuda for the easiest, healthiest, most = trouble-free lawn. Most of the other turf choices we will demonstrate = will perform o.k. here, but maintenance will generally be higher and = these other turfgrasses are not as "forgiving" as Good Ole Bermuda. Many = individual variety choices are available in this diverse genus, and all = are adapted to our hot climate. Some of the bermudas are available only = in sod form for those wanting that "instant lawn", while others produce = seed that can be planted directly on the lawn site. How do you know that = bermudas will perform here the best? Several sod companies have very = successful turf farms scattered throughout the Low Desert areas, AND 99% = of the world=92s supply of bermudagrass seed is produced in the desert = farming areas of Arizona and California. We don=92t find any successful = sod or seed farmers producing bluegrass or fescue in our region. Once you are convinced (or resigned?) to planting bermuda, the = choices of color, texture, density, mowing needs, disease & pest = resistance, etc. are numerous. Ask questions, check out some existing = plantings or trials and be a true MG, learning from every experience.=20 ------=_NextPart_001_007E_01C028C8.59C92AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Another article on turfgrass = planning that may=20 help in your plans
 
------------------------------

TURFGRASS "DONE RIGHT"!!

Mike Hills – Maricopa County Master Gardener

Turfgrass Agronomist & Plant Breeder for Seed Research of = Oregon,=20 Inc.

Some MG’s and other area plant experts are almost=20 "anti-turf" in their attitude toward lawns and turf in the = Low=20 Desert growing regions. They want to concentrate their efforts and = space to=20 growing vegetables, flowers, herbs and other plants and do not feel = that=20 turf has a place in their scheme, or even any place in this climate. = Actually though, a turfgrass area that is properly designed, = selected,=20 prepared, planted, watered and maintained has a definite place in = the Low=20 Desert. In fact, it can directly benefit the property owner in = numerous=20 ways. These benefits of course include the use of the area for = recreation=20 and leisure activities. Additionally, researchers at the University = of=20 Arizona have proven repeatedly that turfgrass "done right" = can=20 actually reduce overall energy and water needs in a household. This = is very=20 similar to the household energy benefits that we are all familiar = with for=20 properly chosen, planted and maintained trees.

The key to gaining these benefits from our lawn areas lies in = this=20 "done right" point. We must start with the correct design = –=20 and this does not mean random kidney bean-shaped grass areas in a=20 home’s front yard. Place the turf area where it will be the = most=20 useful and provide the most benefit to the actual living space of = the home -=20 the backyard where children can play safely and the cooling effects = of the=20 turf can be enjoyed the most. Few desert dwellers play and entertain = in=20 their front yards these days. Once you have chosen the most = beneficial=20 location, design and installation of an efficient irrigation system = is the=20 next step, followed by proper soil preparation. Good watering and = well=20 prepared soil will go a long way to keep your turf in the = healthiest, most=20 water efficient state possible for the longest term.

NOW comes the absolute crucial step – choosing the right = grass to=20 plant. Rushing through this or making a poor decision will negate = all other=20 efforts and keep the gardener always working harder, with no chance = of=20 success. Just as with many other plants, we do find non-adapted turf = choices=20 offered for sale in the Low Desert. Definitely a case of "Buyer = Beware" or "Buyer Be Aware" – turf gardeners = should not=20 assume that all items offered for sale are meant to be planted here. = Our=20 extreme climate (freezing to 120 degrees range), as well as our soil = and=20 water quality drastically limits the turf species list that we = should be=20 choosing from.

This summer, we will be planting a set of turf plots behind the = Maricopa=20 County Extension Office, showing the limited species that are at all = adapted=20 to this region (plots will be planted with both sodded and seeded = varieties=20 for comparison). MG’s will be able to observe these turf plots = throughout the year to educate themselves and the homeowner = public.

The bottom line for Low Desert dwellers is BERMUDAGRASS - sod or = seed,=20 but plant some type of bermuda for the easiest, healthiest, most=20 trouble-free lawn. Most of the other turf choices we will = demonstrate will=20 perform o.k. here, but maintenance will generally be higher and = these other=20 turfgrasses are not as "forgiving" as Good Ole Bermuda. = Many=20 individual variety choices are available in this diverse genus, and = all are=20 adapted to our hot climate. Some of the bermudas are available only = in sod=20 form for those wanting that "instant lawn", while others = produce=20 seed that can be planted directly on the lawn site. How do you know = that=20 bermudas will perform here the best? Several sod companies have very = successful turf farms scattered throughout the Low Desert areas, AND = 99% of=20 the world’s supply of bermudagrass seed is produced in the = desert=20 farming areas of Arizona and California. We don’t find any = successful=20 sod or seed farmers producing bluegrass or fescue in our region.

Once you are convinced (or resigned?) to planting bermuda, the = choices of=20 color, texture, density, mowing needs, disease & pest = resistance, etc.=20 are numerous. Ask questions, check out some existing plantings or = trials and=20 be a true MG, learning from every experience.=20

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