From keokie.II@aol.com Sun Apr 1 18:03:54 2001 From: keokie.II@aol.com (keokie.II@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 11:03:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104011803.f31I3s426870@Ag.Arizona.Edu> are premergents effective in an existing bermuda lawn ? If so what type and when and how often to use? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 1 19:55:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 15:55:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Washingtonia Robusta Message-ID: <94.124d4b66.27f8e1c1@aol.com> If you will correct your irrigation practice on your palms you will probably see a difference, however it may take several months for the difference to show up. Palms should be DEEP watered every two weeks in the summer and every four to six weeks in the winter. You are on target by using a palm fertilizer, but apply it three to four times a year. You have made a good start by using the day long drip. Check out the bulletin on Arizona Landscape Palms which details palm care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 1 19:55:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 15:55:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food Message-ID: <30.12adc3ed.27f8e1c3@aol.com> Ursula, There are text books written about the subjects that you have questioned and I can't begin to do a thorough job of answering you in an email nor am I qualified. The nurseryman was correct in one statement, and that is that one does not have to apply the granular fertilizer as often as the water soluble fertilizer. You can use both fertilizers to good advantage especially with flowers and roses by using the granular as a basic fertilizer and then using the water soluble as a booster. For instance last fall when the weather turned so cold immediately after the planting time for annuals, the soil temps were low enough that many of the nutrients were not available to the plants; by applying a water soluble fertilizer to the leaves, the nutrients became available and the plants grew. Most water soluble fertilizer labels will indicate usage every two weeks. Ironite as well as iron sulfate are very slow acting requiring as much as a year to show any response. For a quick response one should us a chelated iron product. I don't believe that the granular product is more readily available than the liquid. As for your last question, now you are getting into what could be a whole semester of study in college, thats why you could benefit greatly from taking the Master Gardener Training. I'll answer one part of your question, yes you can definitely apply the wrong fertilizer, and I will cite an example of a mistake that I made last fall. I planted a dozen geraniums in a window box and fertilized them with a fertilizer that I thought was a 13/13/13. Somehow an 18/5/8 fertilizer had been mistakenly put in the container marked 13/13/13. I have the most beautiful foliage you could ever want but almost no blossoms. When I realized what had happened I started applying a high phosporus water soluble fertilizer every two weeks which has helped, but I still have beautiful foliage. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on soils, it has a section on fertilizers and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From talldave1@yahoo.com Sun Apr 1 21:00:26 2001 From: talldave1@yahoo.com (talldave1@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:00:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012100.f31L0Q410724@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when,what and how much do i feed a fantex ash tree. phoenix area. your responce appreciated. thanks From talldave1@yahoo.com Sun Apr 1 21:01:11 2001 From: talldave1@yahoo.com (talldave1@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012101.f31L1B410801@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when,what and how much do i feed a fantex ash tree. phoenix area. your responce appreciated. thanks From alogden@mindspring.com Sun Apr 1 21:22:34 2001 From: alogden@mindspring.com (allen ogden) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:22:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscribe Message-ID: Please remove my name from your mailing list. Leen Ogden From mherzb@acxiom.com Sun Apr 1 21:49:27 2001 From: mherzb@acxiom.com (mherzb@acxiom.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:49:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012149.f31LnR414383@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I have used your service once before and it was very helpful. I appreciate this service and find myself in need of good advice once again. I did all the landscaping for our back yard. Everything turned out great, except parts of the sod. It is not necessarily bad, but I do have a situation I would like to resolve. We bought Bob sod, which is a seasonal bermunda and the same sod in Bank One Ballpark. We prepared the soil as instructed leveling as best as possible, removing rocks, and watering and spreading compost and mulch on the dirt surfice. The sod has been in for about 2 months now and has grown together well. However, toward the back of the yard which gets more sunlight (we have north south exposure), some patches of the grass grow much faster than others. Therefore there is no consistency in the level of growth for the grass. This being the case, when I mow, the parts that grow the fastest are discolored and brown once they are trimmed. I suspect that the lower parts of high growth areas are not getting sun so when I mow they are brown as compared to the low growth areas which are green and beautiful. The Bob sod was dormant when we bought the rolls and was overseeded with winter rye. I don't know if the bermuda is coming out of dormancy or not at this point and if that could be a cause. Also,FYI, I was watering 3 times a day for about 5 minutes per watering when we first put in the sod. I have now cut back to 2 times a day every other day and 5 minutes per watering. Any ideas leading to a solution would be very much appreciated. Thanks so much and I hope to hear back from you soon. Matt Herzberg From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Apr 1 23:07:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 16:07:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food References: Message-ID: <006c01c0bb01$f3adf800$f450530c@j0r9501> Very good questions. Following is my $0.02. Others may have different opinions. First a few qualifiers: Plants respond to macro and micro nutrients. The macro nutrients are also classified as primary and secondary macro nutrients. The three primary macro nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The numbers N-P-K indicate the percentage of the nutrient in the product. If none of the numbers are zero, it is said to be a complete fertilizer. The following may be an over simplification of the roles of the plant nutrients because they all work together, but it may help to understand why there are so many different N-P-K concentrations in the various fertilizers. The role of nitrogen, the first number, is to promote vegetative growth and dark leaf color. For turf and leafy vegetables, you would want to apply a fertilizer with a significant nitrogen content. Nitrogen is less stable than the other nutrients and should be worked into the soil. I would suggest it may also be more volatile when dissolved it water, but this is only a guess. Fertilizer burn may occur if nitrogen is overused or if left on foliage without washing it off. Our desert soils are low in nitrogen content. Phosphorus, the second number, promotes energy storage and energy transfer. A high phosphorus content would be indicated for root and bulb vegetables, vegetables bearing fruit above the ground, flowering bulbs, and flower and fruit production. Our desert soils are low in phosphorus. The third nutrient, potassium, contributes to the overall health and strength of the plant. It is abundant in our desert and crops have not been shown to respond to the application of additional potassium. But it is always present in a balanced fertilizer and over-application does not appear to be harmful - the plants only take up however much is needed. Two of the secondary macro nutrients that are also important in to soils are sulfur and calcium. Most leafy vegetable crops have a high calcium content. Many complete fertilizers contain both nutrients. Sulfur helps to lower the pH to allow plants to take up some of the micro nutrients like iron and zinc. Returning to you questions, water soluble fertilizers tend to be more volatile. The different NPK numbers have to do with the intended use and the local soil conditions. As to whether there is a danger of giving too much of one kind of nutrient, I would watch the nitrogen content which can overstimulate vegetative growth or cause fertilizer burn. But generally, if you have fertilizer on hand, I would use it up on whatever needs fertilizing because of the instability of some of the nutrients. I would also limit application to about half of the manufacturer's recommendations. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food > Can someone verify this for me? > > A nursery owner recently told me that it's more convenient to use non-water > soluble plant food because you don't have to apply it as often. She really > kind of pooh-poohed the water-soluble products - like they didn't quite make > the cut. She said that the water-soluble type has to be used once a week, > while the others only need to be applied every few months. > > I had been using the water-soluble type, though not once a week. I used it > much less frequently. My plants were happy. And sometimes I used the > non-water soluble kind. My plants were happy with that, too. > > Since you guys are experts in all this -- what's your opinion? (I remember > one of you saying recently that Ironite is not as good as the granular iron > because the plant can't absorb the liquid form as easily as the granular > kind. Does this also apply to food?) > > One more question, while I've got your attention: I understand the numbers > on plant food, but they seem to be all over the map when I look at the > fertilizer in stores. General shrub fertilizer can have numbers that vary > vastly from one manufacturer to another. Is there a danger of giving too > much of one kind of nutrient if I just go with the max on all three > nutrients? (This is the only part of gardening I don't like -- the > important scientific part. Which is, in fact, one reason why I'm not going > through the Master Gardener course. This module and the part on > acidic/non-acidic soil would just drive me nuts.) > > Ursula Miller > > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 2 00:59:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:59:20 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown areas after mowing Message-ID: Matt, You are correct in assuming that the areas of your yard that is getting more sunshine is growing faster because of the sun. The brown areas are no doubt caused by allowing the taller grass area to grow too much before cutting it. You should never cut off more than 1/3 of the grass at one time. If you do the grass will turn brown. You might also have developed a fungus by overwatering. I would guess that 10 minutes of watering per day every 3 to 4 days would be very adequate. The most accurate way to determine how much water is required is to measure the amount applied. You can do this by setting out several cans (tuna fish can size) running your sprinkler system and measuring the water in the cans and averaging them. YOur newspaper on the weather page gives the amount of water turf requires if watered three days ago. Todays paper called for 0.48 inches of water if last watered three days ago. Most of the cities in the valley will send you free info on watering trees, turf and plants, just call their Water Conservation Dept. Check out this website on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 2 00:59:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:59:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Trees Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual's chapter on Arborculture has a section on fertilizing plants and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From carefreedentons@aol.com Mon Apr 2 03:20:08 2001 From: carefreedentons@aol.com (carefreedentons@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:20:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104020320.f323K7414524@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our Saguaro is dripping a dark sap like substance from a bird hole near the top of the Saguaro. Is this a disease, and if so can anything be done? From Skimojo@aol.com Mon Apr 2 16:34:18 2001 From: Skimojo@aol.com (Skimojo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:34:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104021634.f32GYId26413@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to know what type of soil I need for my Bird-of-Paradise (tropical). Please help it is turning yellow and I have a beautiful bloom. It is in partial sun. Thank you. From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 2 18:10:45 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:10:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104021634.f32GYId26413@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8C0A5.DF28BDEE@AuroraNow.org> I'm with you, Ursula--way too complicated for me! Alan told me to feed my roses fish emulsion (5-1-1) which they seem to love (they've grown a foot in the last month and are budding like crazy) so I'm going to stick with it, even though the Ortho rose food is higher in phosphorous (8-12-4). I noticed that's almost identical to the water soluble quick=start (4-12-4) which I use on any non-natives I plant. I read to use palm fertilizer on my hibiscus (6-5-12 is what the brand I got has). According to Olin, hibiscus would then love our native, potassium-rich soil, but mine are in containers with potting soil because I need to winter them indoors. It seems to me that each plant has its own needs--Olin's response made good common sense to me, to use the water soluble type (quicker acting) for occasional boosts. I never feed my natives, only my roses and hibiscus and once in a while if my houseplants get lucky, I'll think to feed them a bit. I use the quick start at planting time only for shrubs and flowers unless its something that I see growing wild along roadsides (i.e., I used it when I put my salvias and cat claw vines in, but not on my penstemons or native fairy duster)--it just seemed most logical to try to give them what nature is most likely to give (or not give) them. I would think alot of the decision would also need to depend on the soil the plant is going into, right MGs? For instance, if one was to put a non-native in our native, poor, sandy soil without any other amendments, I would think some type of feeding would be good. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 2 18:24:59 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:24:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question References: Message-ID: <3AC8C3FB.27895CDB@AuroraNow.org> Hi experts :-) I planted a pomegranate in January and with the warm weather it has really filled out, gotten all nice 'n bushy (just a young shrub--5 gallon when planted, between 3-4 feet now). I have the soaker hose looped around it about a foot away from the trunk so it gets a bit more water than some of the other plants (mostly natives and xerics). But the leaves at the very tips are all shriveled (no yellow or dying, just shriveled). Is it maybe just not getting quite enough water? I only amended the soil (native sand) with about 1/3 compost when I planted it... could it be needing something more? I have a veritable potluck of food (evidenced by my last post. ha!) but if it needs something, what should I give it? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From diane.hall@triadhospitals.com Mon Apr 2 17:54:04 2001 From: diane.hall@triadhospitals.com (diane.hall@triadhospitals.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:54:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104021754.f32Hs4d13798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a question regarding Texas Mountain Laurel Trees. I purchased 3 or 4 plants which were approx. 18" tall about 2 years ago. In that time, I think they've grown about 1" in height. All are in full sun. I did not amend the soil before planting. Could the soil condition have anything to do with the slow growth rate? Is there anything I can do to improve the growth rate? I do give the plants supplemental water. Would fertilizing help? How often should they receive water? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Apr 2 19:16:57 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 12:16:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104021754.f32Hs4d13798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8D029.86FACD4A@email.sps.mot.com> Hi Diane, Texas Mount Laurel is a very slow grower. Once established, it may not even grow over 6 inches a year. You might get a little more growth out of it by fertilizing and watering more, but from what I've read, that may draw catapillars to the new growth, and they will chomp everything away. At any rate, it is not a fast grower. The only resort is patience :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! diane.hall@triadhospitals.com wrote: > I have a question regarding Texas Mountain Laurel Trees. I purchased 3 or 4 plants which were approx. 18" tall about 2 years ago. In that time, I think they've grown about 1" in height. All are in full sun. I did not amend the soil before planting. Could the soil condition have anything to do with the slow growth rate? Is there anything I can do to improve the growth rate? I do give the plants supplemental water. Would fertilizing help? How often should they receive water? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From valpogrl@aol.com Mon Apr 2 21:53:48 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104022153.f32Lrmd24181@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I need a little advice on rose care. Due to a back injury I was unable to do my spring pruning. Obviously they are all either budded out or blooming now. Do you think that as I do "normal" pruning (after blooms or for cut flowers) I should cut back more of the stem? Sort of a semi-spring pruning? Thank you, Cindy Ciotti From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Apr 2 22:27:30 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 15:27:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104022153.f32Lrmd24181@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8FCD2.1DF2DEC8@email.sps.mot.com> I would not do any severe pruning at this time. You risk the canes being burnt as we are getting close to our hottest summer weather. You want to keep as much foilage as possible on the bush. I would just cut them back a little to keep them at a maintainable height, and wait till next January to do an extensive pruning. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I need a little advice on rose care. Due to a back injury I was unable to do my spring pruning. Obviously they are all either budded out or blooming now. Do you think that as I do "normal" pruning (after blooms or for cut flowers) I should cut back more of the stem? Sort of a semi-spring pruning? > > Thank you, > > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 3 00:03:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:03:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise leaves turning yellow Message-ID: Either too much or too little water can cause plant leaves to yellow. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Mon Apr 2 23:51:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:51:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question In-Reply-To: <3AC8C3FB.27895CDB@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - I have two pomegranates - one in the yard and a small one in a pot. These are such nice plants with those bright orange flowers and fruit. I feed the one in the ground like the rest of my plants - rarely - but definitely when the leaves start turning yellow about once a year. Iron seems to do the trick for that. I didn't even amend the soil when I planted it; I was in a hurry and took my chances. My neighbor has one, too (about the size of yours), and I know that he doesn't do anything with his plants that the annual landscaping guys don't do for him. So I know that his hardly ever (if ever) get fed at all because the landscaping guys just prune everything into rounded shapes, blow the yard, clean up and leave. So I am thinking that the plants don't need a lot of feeding. On the watering - I have a 1 gallon dripper on mine that now runs for 1-1/2 hours 3 times a week. I increase that during the summer. The plant seems to be happy. I have not encountered the leaf shriveling you mention. My desert gardening book says that it tolerates any amount of water but prefers deep occasional soaking (so now I'm thinking now that I may remove the dripper and just deep soak it occasionally). Could it be that you're overwatering it? Ursula Miller With Her $.02 -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:25 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question Hi experts :-) I planted a pomegranate in January and with the warm weather it has really filled out, gotten all nice 'n bushy (just a young shrub--5 gallon when planted, between 3-4 feet now). I have the soaker hose looped around it about a foot away from the trunk so it gets a bit more water than some of the other plants (mostly natives and xerics). But the leaves at the very tips are all shriveled (no yellow or dying, just shriveled). Is it maybe just not getting quite enough water? I only amended the soil (native sand) with about 1/3 compost when I planted it... could it be needing something more? I have a veritable potluck of food (evidenced by my last post. ha!) but if it needs something, what should I give it? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 00:31:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 17:31:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Problems References: <200104020320.f323K7414524@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC919F1.111F9BC2@qwest.net> You could be experiencing bacterial necrosis in your saguaro. Take a look at our page on the subject at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm which also contains advice on managing the situation. It's important to note that it may not be the bird's fault! They often nest in preexisting holes. This is a bacterial problem, and I'm not entirely sure if the birds are the vector. Linda Guy Master Gardener carefreedentons@aol.com wrote: > Our Saguaro is dripping a dark sap like substance from a bird hole near the top of the Saguaro. Is this a disease, and if so can anything be done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From hongly@digitaldune.net Tue Apr 3 01:42:15 2001 From: hongly@digitaldune.net (hongly@digitaldune.net) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:42:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104030142.f331gFd27184@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My vegetable grown so well ( bokchoy, mustard green, colard green, tomatoes, green been, cucumbers ...), but there are a lot of little flyers eaten all the leaves. What should I do ? I live in Yuma, where the weather is already upto 80 degrees. I appreaciate your help. From mholub@email.msn.com Tue Apr 3 02:54:31 2001 From: mholub@email.msn.com (mholub@email.msn.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:54:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104030254.f332sVd03194@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have started a new garden and used commercial garden mix from a local dirt yard. The soil was tilled with humas and manure added. I planted my tomatoes (6 different variety) about mid March and fertilized them with weekly with a liquid fertilizer mix. None of the tomatoes has grown. They seem to be shrinking and turning a purplish color. The beans and peppers planted seem to be doing fine. I have a feeling that it's the soil but I'm not quite sure what to do with it. HELP From drgarnett@msn.com Tue Apr 3 07:36:53 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:36:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here =20 in Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high, =20 beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except =20 that it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through our palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon. We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month during the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I like the delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good, =20 and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salvia greggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are flowering even now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but =20 we've already asked about them and know they're not a problem. We just hose them off.) Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked a =20 bunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seen produce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not getting =20 enough sun? Don Garnett
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer = at http://explorer.msn.com
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have a = 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here
in Tucso= n. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high,
beaut= ifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except
=
that it has never flowered, to our disappointment.
 =
This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through= our
palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in= the afternoon.
We have been watering by drip for a few hours = once a month during
the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk= shower just because I like
the delicious smell that arises fr= om it! The drainage is very good,
and we have not fertilized = the plant yet. We also have some Salvia
greggii planted nearby= that are doing just fine - they are flowering
even now. (The = plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but
we've alrea= dy asked about them and know they're not a problem.
We just ho= se them off.)
 
Are there varieties of rosemar= y that don't blossom? I checked a
bunch of materials on rosem= ary and all the varieties I have seen
produce blossoms. Is it = possible that the plant is not getting
enough sun?
 
   Don Garnett
 


Get your FREE download of MSN Explor= er at http://explorer.msn.com
=

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40-- From Randee" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankPlease help! Last year I planted a Purple Trumpet Vine to crawl up and around my arbor. Someone told me that this plant is AWFUL. They said that the root will grow new plants all over my garden, that the flowers are sparse, and it is not a evergreen vine. Please let me know if I was told the correct information. Should I pull them out? Thanks for your help. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <001a01c0bc4e$f0775fc0$ef05dd18@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 3 17:50:37 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 10:50:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purple Trumpet Vine References: <001e01c0bc4e$f10547e0$ef05dd18@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3ACA0D6D.504DDC9F@AuroraNow.org> I don't have any experience with the trumpet vine (Campsis), but the Western Garden Book says "Vigorous climbers that cling to wood, brick and stucco surfaces with aerial rootlets. Unless thinned, old plants sometimes become top heavy and pull away from supporting surface. Will spread through garden and into neighbor's by suckering roots. If you try to dig up suckers, any remaining piece of root will grow another plant. Can be trained as big shrub or flowering hedge if branches are shortened after first year's growth. Use for large-scale effects, quick summer screen. All produce open, arching sprays of trumpet-shaped flowers in August and September." They are deciduous (not evergreen) and the book says it quickly recovers in the spring if frozen. The WGB doesn't list a purple variety, so maybe you have a hybrid that will mind its manners a bit more. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From dbmaz@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 18:07:49 2001 From: dbmaz@qwest.net (Dave McCarroll) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 11:07:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Not Leafing Message-ID:
I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a little in the mornings and noon time.  This tree (and the one before it) has not leafed out where others in the area have.  It is nice and green and seems to be healthy otherwise.
 
I would like to know if there is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something else.
 
Dave McCarroll
Master Gardener
Anthem AZ

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From millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu Tue Apr 3 18:15:47 2001 From: millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu (millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:15:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104031815.f33IFld15263@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I plant sweet potatoes? I have serious clay soil. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 3 20:07:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 20:07:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming Message-ID: hmmm....Sounds like you are doing all the right things and the plant is healthy. What about pruning? The flowers are borne on old growth. If you prune Fall to January, you may remove the stems that would produce flowers. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Donald Garnett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:36:53 -0700 > > >We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here >in Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high, >beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except >that it has never flowered, to our disappointment. > >This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through our >palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon. >We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month during >the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I like >the delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good, >and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salvia >greggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are flowering >even now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but >we've already asked about them and know they're not a problem. >We just hose them off.) > >Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked a >bunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seen >produce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not getting >enough sun? > > Don Garnett
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_________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 3 20:31:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 20:31:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] insect pest on vegetables Message-ID: These could be whiteflies or see the following web page for other possibilites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/garden.html Whiteflies Adult whiteflies are less than 1/16 inch long and covered with a whitish, waxy powder (under a microscope it is apparent their bodies are actually pale yellow). The oval, flattened immatures settle down and feed on the underside of leaves, often creating sticky beads of "honeydew." The most prolific type of whitefly is the sweet potato whitefly. Other species found in Arizona are the ash whitefly and the greenhouse whitefly, which may require special controls. Although when the numbers are high in the fall sweet potato whiteflies appear to be on every single plant in the yard, they tend to feed and develop on a more limited number of plants. Hibiscus, lantana, and annual herbs and vegetables seem to be preferred hosts. Target control measures at these types of plants. To avoid problems, delay planting fall vegetables until temperatures begin to decline and whitefly numbers drop. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hongly@digitaldune.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:42:15 -0700 (MST) > >My vegetable grown so well ( bokchoy, mustard green, colard green, >tomatoes, green been, cucumbers ...), but there are a lot of little flyers >eaten all the leaves. >What should I do ? I live in Yuma, where the weather is already upto 80 >degrees. >I appreaciate your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue Apr 3 21:01:30 2001 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:01:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Blossums not Setting Message-ID: My tomatoes seem to be doing fine. Plenty of blooms. But there's no tomatoes! They get full sunlight until 3pm, that's when my neighbor's tree shades them. Thanks. You guys are a big help. - Jim From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Apr 3 21:33:23 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 14:33:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010403143138.00d8dac0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Has anyone tried peat mulch as a method of water conservation? Sounds interesting. >2: Key to prevention of surface moisture loss is mulch. I feel that teh best >surface mulch is peat, in that when it dries, it becomes hydrophobic, >preventing water from wicking to the surface, where it can be evaporated. >Kevin Chisholm From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 22:27:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 15:27:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Not Leafing References: Message-ID: <3ACA4E36.B87683B0@qwest.net> --------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience it is precisely the matter of location. All my native trees that are well shaded on north facades take longer to releaf than others elsewhere; many of the latter will have scant leaf loss because of full winter sun. They are cold and light deciduous, in other words. My palo brea is just leafing out these past ten days as is my screwbean mesquite. The only horticultural practice you now need is patience! Linda Guy Master Gardener Dave McCarroll wrote: > I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as > a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same > area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a > little in the mornings and noon time. This tree (and the one before > it) has not leafed out where others in the area have. It is nice and > green and seems to be healthy otherwise. I would like to know if there > is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something > else. Dave McCarrollMaster GardenerAnthem AZ > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing > list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience it is precisely the matter of location. All my native trees that are well shaded on north facades take longer to releaf than others elsewhere; many of the latter will have scant leaf loss because of full winter sun. They are cold and light deciduous, in other words. My palo brea is just leafing out these past ten days as is my screwbean mesquite. The only horticultural practice you now need is patience!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Dave McCarroll wrote:

I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a little in the mornings and noon time.  This tree (and the one before it) has not leafed out where others in the area have.  It is nice and green and seems to be healthy otherwise. I would like to know if there is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something else. Dave McCarrollMaster GardenerAnthem AZ


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_______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 22:28:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 15:28:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming References: Message-ID: <3ACA4E87.EFCA61CF@qwest.net> --------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree with Linda....look to your pruning practices as new shoots take a full year to flower. Linda Guy Master Gardener Donald Garnett wrote: > > We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard herein > Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet > high,beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, > exceptthat it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant > has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through ourpalo verde for > the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon.We have been > watering by drip for a few hours once a month duringthe winter. > Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I likethe delicious > smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good,and we have not > fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salviagreggii planted > nearby that are doing just fine - they are floweringeven now. (The > plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, butwe've already asked > about them and know they're not a problem.We just hose them off.) Are > there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked abunch of > materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seenproduce > blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not gettingenough sun? > Don Garnett > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com --------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree with Linda....look to your pruning practices as new shoots take a full year to flower.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Donald Garnett wrote:

 
We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard herein Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high,beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, exceptthat it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through ourpalo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon.We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month duringthe winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I likethe delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good,and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salviagreggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are floweringeven now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, butwe've already asked about them and know they're not a problem.We just hose them off.) Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked abunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seenproduce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not gettingenough sun?    Don Garnett  

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--------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8-- From sommers13@cs.com Tue Apr 3 22:29:00 2001 From: sommers13@cs.com (sommers13@cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:29:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104032229.f33MT0d05977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 nerium olende and 2 hibicus - many of the leaves are turning yellow. Could this be do to to much watering? From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 3 23:20:48 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 16:20:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104032229.f33MT0d05977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACA5AD0.229C68B6@AuroraNow.org> I speak from personal (not expert) experience about your oleanders--yes, there's a good chance that if you even *think* you're overwatering them, you are. I had to transplant mine because they were in too dark and rich of soil. I moved them to a nice, well drained, unamended sandy spot and they're doing fine now (I almost killed them with kindness). If you have caliche under your soil that is preventing good drainage that may be the problem, too. Oleanders should be watered infrequently, but deeply. Hibiscus need much more regular waterings--if you have them next to each other there's a good chance one is getting too much water and the other not enough. Your hibiscus also want well drained soil, but they like it richer and only need to dry slightly between waterings. If your hibiscus are in the ground they could have gotten some winter frost damage--just prune it off if that's the case. You may want to try some iron chelate on your hibiscus (not on your oleander!) and a bit of palm fertilizer. I've also noticed I'll get sporatic yellow leaves on my hibiscus if they're subjected to a lot of wind. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 4 00:36:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 20:36:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch Message-ID: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Kevin, The use of peat moss for a mulch would also work against you in many cases, water applied for irrigation will not be readily absorbed but will run off. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 4 01:20:10 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 18:20:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Justicia Spicigera References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <3ACA76CA.5FFF6BE0@AuroraNow.org> Before I start whining about my rabbits again, can someone tell me if J. Spicigera is on "the list" of plants that rabbits stay away from? I keep finding broken branches, but not any obvious munching and I'm not sure who to blame. I can't find my list of rabbit-resistant plants (I've given up trying to get rid of them, and they don't seem to read the same list of plants they don't like that I read, but at least they're leaving my lantana and salvias alone). -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 4 01:22:12 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 18:22:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <3ACA7744.EEF692F1@AuroraNow.org> Rod and other MGs, I read recently that peat moss is starting to be considered a bad ecological choice because of "the damaging way it is harvested." Can't remember where I read it. Any insight? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 4 04:44:01 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:44:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <003f01c0bcc2$20d54920$d850530c@j0r9501> Jonathan, Not only will the water run off, the peat moss will float and run off too. Doesn't seem to mix well with our soil. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Kevin, > The use of peat moss for a mulch would also work against you in many cases, > water applied for irrigation will not be readily absorbed but will run off. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Apr 4 14:38:31 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 07:38:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > >Linda Ffolliott > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Peg Teeling >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 >Country: U.S. >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From suzperryman@aol.com Wed Apr 4 15:26:07 2001 From: suzperryman@aol.com (suzperryman@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104041526.f34FQ7d01352@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a potted hibiscus tree ( yellow flower)that suffered some stress last season- wind and not enough water..I have nursed it back adding enriching soil and nitrogen.. It's leaves are very curled and kind of dry yet I water it daily. If I skip a day I get yellow leaves on the plant. My other potted hibiscus ( red flower0 are doing fine, yet this plant still isn't blooming and looks a little sad. I have increased leaves this season, yet no buds. Recently, I had a mass of petunias grow in the base from natural seed spread, yet it didn't seem to affect it either way. Any suggestions how I can help it along?? From suzperryman@aol.com Wed Apr 4 15:29:23 2001 From: suzperryman@aol.com (suzperryman@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:29:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104041529.f34FTNd01884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have this crazy petunia plant ( varigated purple ) I planted last season. The seed spread naturally and it has grown in a couple of different places. It has a great scent too..When I pinch the dead flowers can I get seed from this and plant them in the ground next year- or start the seedling inside?? I wondered what you recommended for this climate to grow from seedling. I can't find anything on the internet about where the seed is in the flower so I am not sure if this will work. From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Apr 4 15:57:09 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This tree grows prolific in the sub-tropical regions. We had them 100' tall and 75' wide in Zimbabwe (elevation 3000', 20 deg South, rain about 10" per year). I have one growing in my front lawn and it is now 30' tall and doing well. My neighbour behind me has a tree 40' tall. For it to be growing from the bottom - you must have lost the top at some time. I would suggest pruning it to one main trunk, cut out all the new growth below 5'. If the one trunk, you select, is still week you may need to stake it. Paint the trunk white for sunburn, fertilize and water. You will get a very beautiful shade tree. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Carol Noyes Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:39 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > >Linda Ffolliott > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Peg Teeling >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 >Country: U.S. >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Apr 4 16:17:05 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 09:17:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3ACB4901.1D15A656@email.sps.mot.com> Carol, Bougainvilla can be pruned after the last chance of frost, so it should be OK to prune it now if in metro-phoenix. Likewise, the Jacaranda should be pruneable now. I have on, and it is just now starting to get it's new growth. I have mine pruned as a single trunk tree, and wish I had let it go as a multi trunked tree. They look so much prettier that way. So, they might want to consider just thinning it out a bit, and growing it as a multi-trunk tree. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Carol Noyes wrote: > >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) > >From: Linda Ffolliott > >To: Carol Noyes > >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > > > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > > > >Linda Ffolliott > > > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) > >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com > >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Comment from the College site > > > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > > > >Individual: Peg Teeling > >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com > >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 > >Country: U.S. > >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is > >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young > >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > 602-470-8092 (fax) > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Wed Apr 4 20:11:54 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:11:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: EXOTIC GRASS ALERT Message-ID: <200104042011.NAA21383@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> If anyone is still interested in the issue of exotic grasses (I just returned from vacation and so I'm just catching up with newsletter items): There is a photo of purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) at http://www.dipbot.unict.it/orto/0681-1.html I believe The Nature Conservancy has an active program for eradicating buffelgrass from places like Organ Pipe and may be able to help in identifying that species. It is indeed often difficult to identify different grasses. One really needs to examine the flowers, which are often very small. Fountain grass is often sold as an ornamental (I found several nursery sites in the midwest offering it for sale), so this will be a difficult problem to deal with. Don Garnett From t2thraen@aol.com Wed Apr 4 20:51:42 2001 From: t2thraen@aol.com (t2thraen@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:51:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042051.f34Kpgd11983@Ag.Arizona.Edu> something is eating mostly my young spinach and radish tops oh yes and my peas what could it be? i would like to treat this problam organicly. thanks From cornucopia.wine@home.com Wed Apr 4 22:30:40 2001 From: cornucopia.wine@home.com (cornucopia.wine@home.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:30:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042230.f34MUed02450@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted some hybiscus (seven) in my backyard about two-and-a-half months ago. They started out very strong and healthly but now as soon as a new leaf appears it turns yellow and falls off. Can you help? Thanks. From Pabaferd@juno.com Wed Apr 4 22:46:38 2001 From: Pabaferd@juno.com (Pabaferd@juno.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:46:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042246.f34Mkcd05656@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you tell me how much water plants the following plants should receive in the Phoenix area. (Some established bushes and trees seem to be doing well, but I have added shrubs, perennials and annuals this year.) Shrubs: Baja Fairy Duster and Ruella were planted in October Perennials: Verbena was planted in October with a new planting in March Society Garlic was planted in March Annuals: Scabiosa, cosmos, zinnias, pansies are planted in 2 gallon pots. Trees: Tangelo and White Genoa Fig tree were planted in March. How much water do these plants need and how often should the above plants be watered? Our irrigation system has only one zone so the nozzles will have to be adjusted or limited as needed. Thank you! Barbara Ferdinand From lizmiles@home.com Wed Apr 4 23:15:15 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 16:15:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] moving occatillos Message-ID: <3ACBAB03.CBD253C5@home.com> I have 2 mature occatillos (sp?) that I would like to move from the back yard to the front. A neighbor had it done sucessfully and the move was recommended by a landscaper designer I interviewed, but I have decided to do a lot of the work myself. How risky is it....and where can I find someone to actually move the plants, without hiring a landscape company? I am learing so much from reading all the emails. You provide quite an education for newcomers. Thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Apr 5 00:02:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 17:02:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] moving occatillos References: <3ACBAB03.CBD253C5@home.com> Message-ID: <3ACBB61A.902FF2BA@AuroraNow.org> Liz, I know more about handling natives than I do regular garden flowers, but I'm not an expert. I've moved ocotillos before though, and it's not that hard. I think you could move your ocotillos yourself with some help, and now would be a good time to do it. Wet the soil slightly so you can try to keep some of the soil intact (it may fall away anyway--you'd be surprised how tiny the root ball is in comparison to the plant). Transplant it with some rocks and gravel mixed in the soil which should just be unamended native sand or dirt (when I transplanted mine, I tried to give it the same conditions as in the wild and it bounced right back). Give it a bit of supplemental watering for the first year while it re-establishes (I probably "over water" mine but it doesn't mind a bit). It's really not "risky" to the ocotillo, but they can take up to a year or two to really re-establish themselves and start leafing out and blooming again--so don't panic if they don't bloom next spring. If you can keep some soil around the root ball when moving, that seems to help. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Thu Apr 5 02:46:11 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (bjbigham@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 19:46:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104050246.f352kBd07412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three agave grandiflora plants in my front yard. I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of them has sent up a 15-foot high flower stalk, which I love. However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone and I don't know what to do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it down? Wait for it to dry up? Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Barbara B., Mesa, AZ From lfitzhugh@inficad.com Thu Apr 5 03:32:51 2001 From: lfitzhugh@inficad.com (lfitzhugh@inficad.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 20:32:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104050332.f353Wpd14781@Ag.Arizona.Edu> April 4,2001 shorlty after I purchased about 210 Gladiola bulbs I became too ill to plant them. Questions: 1. Is it to late to plant them in the ground? 2. Can they be planted in containers? 3.If they cannot be planted,can they be placed in to some kind of soil mix and stored untill the next planting season? Thank you. , L.Fitzhugh From lizardacre@sprintmail.com Thu Apr 5 04:23:37 2001 From: lizardacre@sprintmail.com (K&V Countryman) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 21:23:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about composting References: <200104031809.f33I9Id13947@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACBF349.18258C8E@sprintmail.com> I have a problem with flies (thousands of them!) in my compost bins especially when I add grass cuttings to it. The grass also gives it an unpleasant odor. I've also had a healthy crop of roaches at times. Got any great solutions? From umiller@azdps.com Thu Apr 5 12:14:15 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 05:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200104050246.f352kBd07412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I have one, too, and did a little research on this. Supposedly this is the life end cycle of your agave but also supposedly your agave has already sent out new shoots which are planlets around the old plant. They will take over from the old plant. This is true in my case, as the one old plant has actually turned into a host of plants so I expect that it's business as usual (and that seems to be the way with similar plants that have done this in the neighborhood). I have not been able to find what should be done with the stalk once the plant has flowered. My neighbors or their landscapers have simply cut them down so I guess that's what I'll do, too. Sorry that I don't have more information on this, but maybe this helps. Ursula Miller, not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bjbigham@earthlink.net Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:46 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three agave grandiflora plants in my front yard. I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of them has sent up a 15-foot high flower stalk, which I love. However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone and I don't know what to do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it down? Wait for it to dry up? Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Barbara B., Mesa, AZ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Thu Apr 5 14:04:15 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 07:04:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] agave flower stalk In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010405140415.19425.qmail@web2306.mail.yahoo.com> In addition to Ursula's advice, I've had several agaves flower, and most of them I cut down after the stalk is pretty dry. I had one though, that due to rain it was rottening in some areas. I had to cut it down earlier because I didn't want it to fall on anybody. A dry agave flower is a great piece of decoration. You can use some coating that will prevent further degradation, and stick it in a corner of a house or yard, and it looks great. It also makes for a very different but interesting Christmas tree. Barbara --- Ursula Miller wrote: > I have one, too, and did a little research on this. > Supposedly this is the > life end cycle of your agave but also supposedly > your agave has already sent > out new shoots which are planlets around the old > plant. They will take over > from the old plant. This is true in my case, as the > one old plant has > actually turned into a host of plants so I expect > that it's business as > usual (and that seems to be the way with similar > plants that have done this > in the neighborhood). > > I have not been able to find what should be done > with the stalk once the > plant has flowered. My neighbors or their > landscapers have simply cut them > down so I guess that's what I'll do, too. > > Sorry that I don't have more information on this, > but maybe this helps. > > Ursula Miller, not a Master Gardener > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf > Of > bjbigham@earthlink.net > Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:46 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW > page > > > Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three > agave grandiflora plants > in my front yard. > > I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of > them has sent up a 15-foot > high flower stalk, which I love. > > However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone > and I don't know what to > do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it > down? Wait for it to dry > up? > > Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? > > Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. > > Barbara B., Mesa, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 5 15:11:41 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 15:11:41 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree, pruning Message-ID: Eric Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting and Care" is an excellent book for answering pruning questions. He states "prune in winter to thin and remove undesrable growth". This tree may grow to 40 feet so it needs ample room to spread; it grows best when planted in deep, loose, well-draining soil. Linda Drew Master Gardener >>Individual: Peg Teeling >>Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com >>City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 >>Country: U.S. >>Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is >>growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young >>tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly >>appreciate. > > > >Carol Noyes >Administrative Secretary >Maricopa County >Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > >602-470-8086 Ext. 308 >602-470-8092 (fax) >Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A >~U of A ~U of A ~ > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From DeVerasLT@aol.com Thu Apr 5 16:05:23 2001 From: DeVerasLT@aol.com (DeVerasLT@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 09:05:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104051605.f35G5Nd25377@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My sanseveria plants ("mother-in-law's tongue) are doing fine indoors, but they do not stay straight up. Why are they leaning oer? Is there anything I can do to strengthen the blades? Thanks! L. Hogan From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 17:35:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 10:35:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bower Vine References: <200103312354.f2VNsF405761@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACCACEF.9BC4AB29@qwest.net> SWGB does not list the plant as suitable for the deserts of AZ. Takes sun on the coast and needs shade in the inland CA areas where it is said to grow. Guess that would mean some good shade in our area in order to make a go of it. Moderate water there....more ample irrigation here, probably. Evergreen. Linda Guy, MG valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > Has anyone grown Pandorea Jasminoides (bower vine). I did something I very rarely do..bought a plant I know nothing about. It's going to planted on the north side on the house on a trellis. > Thanks, Cindy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 17:39:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 10:39:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sunrise Cactus References: <200103242240.f2OMeSW10416@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACCADCB.7394AD26@qwest.net> I don't have a reference work with this particular cactus. We have a general reference publication on Cactus that can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top\ My best suggestion is that you contact the Desert Botanical Gardens hotline, whose specialty these plants are, M-F, 10 to 11:30 am 480-941-1225. Linda Guy, MG monkeyl@uswest.net wrote: > I recieved a sunrise cactus as a gift. It was a beautiful flowerin plant and now the blossoms have finished. Please let me know how to care for the plant next. Do I plant it outside or keep it inside? Thanks so much > Jane Lange > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mdilucido@toddassoc.com Thu Apr 5 21:13:12 2001 From: mdilucido@toddassoc.com (mdilucido@toddassoc.com) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 14:13:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104052113.f35LDCd01679@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My question concerns a suspected bee hive in the attic of our south Scottsdale home. I realize this may not be your list's main purpose,(although it's certainly related to plant survival) however, I'm hoping that someone out in cyberspace can point us in the right direction. Maricopa County's Emergency Management Department has said that the bees are in all probability Africanized, and recommends extermination by a pest control company. They also said that beekeepers aren't interested in Africanized bees. Are there other options more environmentally friendly than extermination? Can we at least wait until the native plants in our yard have been pollinated before extermination? Will summer temperatures make the attic too hot for the hive to remain and thus resolve the problem? From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 23:41:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 16:41:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bonsai References: <200103252300.f2PN04W26396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD02B1.9BC67FA@qwest.net> Many good-sized nurseries carry even a small selection of bonsais. The Phoenix Bonsai Society which is listed on our garden club page, may be of further interest to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy, MG ketelboeter@earthlink.net wrote: > where can i buy a bonsai tree? i live on the N.W. side in peoria? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 23:45:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 16:45:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water for Tomatoes and Strawberries References: <200103261609.f2QG9r424001@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD039D.237DD244@qwest.net> This can be so dependent upon your soil conditions. What you are striving for is to keep the root zone evenly moist. The water application rates will change as the weather heats up, and you will need to reevaluate periodically. Particularly with tomatoes, you do not want a cycle of dry/wet/dry/wet soil, because this uneven practice will cause the fruit to split. Check out the online Master Gardener manual which has sections on veggies and irrigation at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG rogemarx@qwest.net wrote: > How often do I water tomatoes and strawberries? > Also, how much water do they need when I do > water them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 23:50:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 16:50:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mangos References: <200103302354.f2UNsq422322@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD04D4.CBCEB4C3@qwest.net> These aren't in my realm of experience, but I know a group who will be of big help. Contact the AZ Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers from a link on our garden club page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy, MG scottrasmussen@qwest.net wrote: > I was wondering how hard it is to grow a mango tree in Phoenix and if I can expect to actually get any fruit from it. Also how large do mango trees grow? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 23:53:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 16:53:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil mix References: <200104030254.f332sVd03194@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD0591.A43B89C7@qwest.net> You probably have the start of some very good soil but may have planted prematurely. Most would recommend that you let the composted material continue to decompose for 2-3 weeks before planting. The process often robs the soil of nutrients in the short term, impacting transplants. However, you do note that you have sidedressed the tomatoes...and that the beans and peppers are performing well. I'm not apt to blame the soil, but sounds like the tomatoes may have been diseased. Can you offer any additional clues for us to ponder? Linda Guy, MG mholub@email.msn.com wrote: > I have started a new garden and used commercial garden mix from a local dirt yard. The soil was tilled with humas and manure added. I planted my tomatoes (6 different variety) about mid March and fertilized them with weekly with a liquid fertilizer mix. None of the tomatoes has grown. They seem to be shrinking and turning a purplish color. The beans and peppers planted seem to be doing fine. I have a feeling that it's the soil but I'm not quite sure what to do with it. > HELP > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Apr 5 23:55:47 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 16:55:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Blossums not Setting References: Message-ID: <3ACD0603.DD0DF295@qwest.net> Hard to say from what you've told us. Some varieties produce weeks before others do [hence the name 'early' as in Early Girl]. Also don't know how long they've been in the ground.Sounds like you have a fine setup going into the summer's heat, though, with shade from the tree.... Linda Guy, MG Jim Bayers wrote: > My tomatoes seem to be doing fine. Plenty of blooms. > > But there's no tomatoes! > > They get full sunlight until 3pm, that's when my neighbor's tree shades > them. > > Thanks. You guys are a big help. > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 02:42:50 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 19:42:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bee Hive in Attic References: <200104052113.f35LDCd01679@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD2D2A.DBEAE2F5@qwest.net> I'd like to direct you to a similar question I answered last year regarding a bee hive. You can view it in our archives at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/004305.html In a nut shell, please do call a bee removal service. With spring, bee colonies split and part of the old colony flies off to start a new colony. When is happens, it is called a swarm. When bees swarm, particularly Africanized bees, they can be very aggressive, as you may have read in news reports in the past few years. If you have a colony in your attic, it would be best to have it taken care of as soon as possible by a professional service. Good luck, Sue Bass Master Gardener mdilucido@toddassoc.com wrote: > My question concerns a suspected bee hive in the attic of our south Scottsdale home. I realize this may not be your list's main purpose,(although it's certainly related to plant survival) however, I'm hoping that someone out in cyberspace can point us in the right direction. Maricopa County's Emergency Management Department has said that the bees are in all probability Africanized, and recommends extermination by a pest control company. They also said that beekeepers aren't interested in Africanized bees. Are there other options more environmentally friendly than extermination? Can we at least wait until the native plants in our yard have been pollinated before extermination? Will summer temperatures make the attic too hot for the hive to remain and thus resolve the problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 03:09:55 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 20:09:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Propagating Flowers from Seed References: <200104041529.f34FTNd01884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD3383.D511E8CB@qwest.net> The on-line Master Gardener Manual has some very good information on propagation from seed. You can view it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/sexual.html When the flower head dies, seed is produced. Petunia seeds are very fine. One way to catch seed is to tie a piece of old panty hose or cheese cloth around a flower head and the seed will drop into it. You may also like to view a publication we have on-line concerning flowers and bedding plants. You can view it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Look for publication AZ1100. I also located a "Seed Starter Home Page" that might be of interest to you. Go to: http://www.chestnut-sw.com/seedhp.htm Also, the following link is for Seed Savers and Seed Saving Resources. It has a couple of links with information on saving seed. Good Luck, Sue Bass Master Gardener suzperryman@aol.com wrote: > I have this crazy petunia plant ( varigated purple ) I planted last season. The seed spread naturally and it has grown in a couple of different places. It has a great scent too..When I pinch the dead flowers can I get seed from this and plant them in the ground next year- or start the seedling inside?? I wondered what you recommended for this climate to grow from seedling. I can't find anything on the internet about where the seed is in the flower so I am not sure if this will work. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 03:17:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 20:17:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Propagation from Seed References: <200104041529.f34FTNd01884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACD3546.5E5FE43C@qwest.net> http://homepage.eircom.net/~merlyn/seedsaving.html The above link is an additional link I left out in my previous note regarding sites discussing seed saving techniques. Sue Bass suzperryman@aol.com wrote: > I have this crazy petunia plant ( varigated purple ) I planted last season. The seed spread naturally and it has grown in a couple of different places. It has a great scent too..When I pinch the dead flowers can I get seed from this and plant them in the ground next year- or start the seedling inside?? I wondered what you recommended for this climate to grow from seedling. I can't find anything on the internet about where the seed is in the flower so I am not sure if this will work. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jltpf@aol.com Fri Apr 6 04:50:27 2001 From: jltpf@aol.com (jltpf@aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 21:50:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104060450.f364oRd09399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In the first week of February I planted some daffodil plants in containers. All the plants only bloomed once. I removed the flower heads when they faded. I fertilizer them. Some have just faded away, and others are the leaves are turning brown. Do you have any suggestions for me? Thank you for your help. Lgentile From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 13:12:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 06:12:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Daffodils References: <200104060450.f364oRd09399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACDC0CD.D3D727B4@qwest.net> You're doing just fine. Bulbs like these only bloom once, but need to be left in the ground so that the leaves can continue to manufacture nutrients to be stored in the bulb for next year's floral show. Daffodils are quite hardy in the ground in our desert if there isn't an abundance of water applied in the summer [the biggest risk is rot]. I would not be fertilizing at this time and as soon as the entire vegetation turns brown clip it off and store the bulbs in a cool dry place to be replanted next fall. If they were already in the ground, I would tell you to simply leave them there, well marked so you don't otherwise dig them up. Linda Guy, MG jltpf@aol.com wrote: > In the first week of February I planted some daffodil plants in containers. All the plants only bloomed once. I removed the flower heads when they faded. I fertilizer them. Some have just faded away, and others are the leaves are turning brown. Do you have any suggestions for me? Thank you for your help. > > Lgentile > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 13:15:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 06:15:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Soil mix] Message-ID: <3ACDC15E.94C37D63@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------0BB2FB08D200C6CB7629B5EF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can anyone help this gentleman with his 'turning purple' tomatoes? I'm not sure what this means, not having experienced it, but I know I've read about it on the server from others before. --------------0BB2FB08D200C6CB7629B5EF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 93137 invoked by uid 0); 6 Apr 2001 02:48:06 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (204.147.80.19) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 6 Apr 2001 02:48:06 -0000 Received: (qmail 21626 invoked by uid 0); 6 Apr 2001 02:48:08 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO cpimssmtpu06.email.msn.com) (207.46.181.82) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 6 Apr 2001 02:48:08 -0000 Received: from v8n2p8 ([63.44.128.61]) by cpimssmtpu06.email.msn.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(5.0.2195.3225); Thu, 5 Apr 2001 19:48:01 -0700 Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 21:45:08 -0500 Message-ID: <000601c0be43$9fcbe540$3d802c3f@v8n2p8> From: "Milton Holub" To: "Linda Guy" References: <200104030254.f332sVd03194@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3ACD0591.A43B89C7@qwest.net> Subject: Re: Soil mix Organization: Microsoft Corporation X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2919.6600 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6600 X-OriginalArrivalTime: 06 Apr 2001 02:48:02.0495 (UTC) FILETIME=[FF7EA4F0:01C0BE43] X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my plea. I grew up on a farm and have planted gardens at our previous home for about 19 years. I have never had a bumper crop but always managed to have fresh vegetables for my family. I started by digging up the St Augustine grass with my kids. Then I tilled up the area. I added some gypsum and Medina Soil conditioner. We built a border around the garden with treated 2 X 10 boards about 29' X 7'. We then added the commercial garden mix from a local dirt yard. It is very light and has a lot of mulch in it. We filled the area to the top with soil. I added manure (about 5 bags), compost (another 5 bags) and a couple of bags of mulch (about 3 bags). This was tilled up with a garden tiller for about 1 1/2 hours. I let it set for a while (it was cold and rainy and too early to plant). About 3-4 weeks later I planted my beans (asparagus beans) tomatoes, peppers, and crysantumums around the border. Yes we have had cold nights but it's starting to get really warm now (lows high 60's and highs mid 80's). The tomatoes have not grown at all. They are purplish color. When they are in the store bought container, they look great. Green and healthy. After they are planted, they get stunted. The soil looks a bit too muched to me. Perhaps it drys out too fast. I'm not sure. I fertilize with Miracle Grow about every 10 days. The beans came up great but everything else is just stunted. If you can give me any tips, I would appreciate it. Milton from Houston Texas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2001 6:53 PM Subject: Soil mix > You probably have the start of some very good soil but may have planted prematurely. Most would recommend that you let the composted material continue to decompose for 2-3 weeks before planting. The process often robs the soil of nutrients in the short term, impacting transplants. However, you do note that you have sidedressed the tomatoes...and that the beans and peppers are performing well. > > I'm not apt to blame the soil, but sounds like the tomatoes may have been diseased. Can you offer any additional clues for us to ponder? > > Linda Guy, MG > > mholub@email.msn.com wrote: > > > I have started a new garden and used commercial garden mix from a local dirt yard. The soil was tilled with humas and manure added. I planted my tomatoes (6 different variety) about mid March and fertilized them with weekly with a liquid fertilizer mix. None of the tomatoes has grown. They seem to be shrinking and turning a purplish color. The beans and peppers planted seem to be doing fine. I have a feeling that it's the soil but I'm not quite sure what to do with it. > > HELP > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > --------------0BB2FB08D200C6CB7629B5EF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 13:22:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 06:22:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Damage ID References: <200104042051.f34Kpgd11983@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACDC300.954E824C@qwest.net> You will have to give us a better description of the damage and when you believe it occurs. The biggest culprit on my spinach has been birds. I just live with it, but you could use a little floating row cover. Linda Guy, MG t2thraen@aol.com wrote: > something is eating mostly my young spinach and radish tops oh yes and my peas what could it be? i would like to treat this problam organicly. thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 6 15:14:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 15:14:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes, "purple" Message-ID: I have not seen this, but my first question would be if it wasn't a little cold to set out tomatoes? (not sure about your location). Some plants react to cold temperatures with a purplish color and the cold would also stunt growth. Generally, the soil temperature should be about 60 degrees F before setting out transplants. Young tomato plants are tender; they burn easily when sprayed or fertilized. Does it appear the fertilizer might have damaged the seedlings? my 2 cents... Linda Drew Master Gardener >mholub@email.msn.com wrote: > > > I have started a new garden and used commercial garden mix from a local >dirt yard. The soil was tilled with humas and manure added. I planted my >tomatoes (6 different variety) about mid March and fertilized them with >weekly with a liquid fertilizer mix. None of the tomatoes has grown. They >seem to be shrinking and turning a purplish color. The beans and peppers >planted seem to be doing fine. I have a feeling that it's the soil but I'm >not quite sure what to do with it. > > HELP _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 15:17:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 08:17:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Curly Top Virus? Message-ID: <3ACDDE26.9628D262@qwest.net> Here is our website's discussion on this virus that impacts tomatoes http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm Although it did not mention the purple color, I found it in another reference. http://plant-disease.orst.edu/disease.cfm?RecordID=1078.00000 Linda From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Apr 6 15:32:05 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 08:32:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Violet Trumpet Vine References: <001e01c0bc4e$f10547e0$ef05dd18@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3ACDE174.7D8AEF9C@qwest.net> Quoting from our cd-rom on desert landscaping: Use where it has air circulation, such as on a portch under an overhang. Leaves densely cover the plant. Once established, plants are quite drought tolerant, going 2 to 3 weeks without supplemental water in summer. Root hardy to 10F. Evergreen. Lavender flowers [referred to as Violet trumpet vine, vs. purple]. Flower season is spring. Typical dimensions are 12 x 20 feet wide. Susceptible to chlorosis. Prune faded blooms seasonally. Fast-growing and mildly agressive.Requires training to direct growth. Attracts hummingbirds. Originally from Brazil. Linda Guy, MG Randee wrote: > BlankPlease help! > Last year I planted a Purple Trumpet Vine to crawl up and around my arbor. > Someone told me that this plant is AWFUL. They said that the root will grow > new plants all over my garden, that the flowers are sparse, and it is not a > evergreen vine. Please let me know if I was told the correct information. > Should I pull them out? > Thanks for your help. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Apr 6 18:01:01 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 11:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Institute of Desert Ecology Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010406103801.00abd250@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_12401050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Tucson Audubon Society, in cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board, & the University of Arizona Extended University Invite you to the 31st Annual Institute of Desert Ecology April 19-22, 2001 Catalina State Park, Tucson, AZ (at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains) Since 1970, the Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a means of bringing together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors for field studies of the Sonoran Desert. One unit of college credit may be earned during the sessions. The institute begins on Thursday, April 19 at 6:30 am, however all participants are encouraged to arrive on Wednesday, April 18 after 4 pm to register and to set up camp. The Desert Institute fee includes a waiver of park entrance and camping fees for April 18-22. The program will end at 2:30 pm on April 22. Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert Ecosystems with emphasis on relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical characteristics of the desert rather than classification and identification. Our days start early and optional activities such as owling, blacklighting for insects and star talks extend on into the evening hours. Participants and faculty interact in small groups during the first three days. On Sunday morning, a final hike ties together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group. Participants furnish their own tents or campers. Cost is $295 per person and includes instruction, camp services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on Thursday morning and ending with lunch on Sunday. A non-refundable deposit of $45 per person must accompany the registration form. Contact Leona J. Lansing, Director Tucson Audubon Society 520-721-7386 sonoralee@aol.com Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_12401050==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
Tucson Audubon Society,
in cooperation with Arizona State Parks Board,
& the University of Arizona Extended University

Invite you to the 31st Annual

Institute of Desert Ecology
April 19-22, 2001
Catalina State Park, Tucson, AZ
(at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains)

Since 1970, the Audubon Institute of Desert Ecology has been a means of bringing together 60-65 participants and six expert instructors for field studies of the Sonoran Desert.  One unit of college credit may be earned during the sessions.

The institute begins on Thursday, April 19 at 6:30 am, however all participants are encouraged to arrive on Wednesday, April 18 after 4 pm to register and to set up camp.  The Desert Institute fee includes a waiver of park entrance and camping fees for April 18-22.  The program will end at 2:30 pm on April 22.

Our study will focus on Sonoran Desert Ecosystems with emphasis on relationships between plant life, animals, and the physical characteristics of the desert rather than classification and identification.  Our days start early and optional activities such as owling, blacklighting for insects and star talks extend on into the evening hours.  Participants and faculty interact in small groups during the first three days.  On Sunday morning, a final hike ties together the experiences of earlier sessions for the entire group.

Participants furnish their own tents or campers.

Cost is $295 per person and includes instruction, camp services, and all meals beginning with breakfast on Thursday morning and ending with lunch on Sunday.  A non-refundable deposit of $45 per person must accompany the registration form.

Contact Leona J. Lansing, Director
Tucson Audubon Society
520-721-7386
sonoralee@aol.com



Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_12401050==_.ALT-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Apr 6 19:54:25 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2001 12:54:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spring Landscaping Events Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010406123807.00accbf0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_19206795==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed In Mesa: Spring in the Desert Garden Fair - Saturday, April 7, 2001, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Sop for your favorite plants, and pick up some gardening and landscaping advice at the Mesa Harper's Nursery & Flower shop, 1830 E. McKellips road. Look for experts on citrus, roses, Xeriscape, irrigation, desert plants and more. Participants include Desert Tree Farm, Horizon Irrigation, A-to-Z Rentals, City of Mesa Water Conservation, U of A Cooperative Extension, Greenfield Citrus nursery and Gazinka's Backyard. Just some of the experts you may run into include Mary Irish, Terry Mikel, and Michelle Rauscher. Call Harper's Nursery at 480-964-4909 for more information. April 18 - The Mysteries of Landscape Watering, 6:30 - 9:00 pm Landscape Water Scheduling & Controller Programming. If you're mystified about landscape watering, you're not alone. This workshop will explain landscape plant water needs and will provide instruction on programming your timer clock. This free class is sponsored by the City of Mesa Water Conservation office, and will take place at the Utilities Department Community Room, 640 N. Mesa Drive. Call 480-644-5384 to register. April 24 - Creating a Water-Wise Landscape with Native Plants, 6:30-8:30 pm. Join us at the mesa Public Library as Judy Mielke, landscape architect and author of native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes explains how to use native plants to beautify residential settings and still ensure wise water use. Judy's book and signing will be available at the end of the program. Saguaro Room, Mesa Public Library, main Branch, 64 E. First Street. Registration is not required, but seating is limited. Call 480-644-3726 or 480-644-3334 for more information. Co-sponsored by Mesa Public Library and City of Mesa Water Conservation. In Gilbert: Drip Irrigation; from Start to Flourish Thursday, April 5, 6:30 pm, at the Southeast Regional Library. Familiarize yourself with installing and maintaining your drip system. Landscaping with Low Water Use Plants Saturdays, April 21 and 28, 8:00 am, at McQueen Park Activity Center, 510 N. Horne St. Create a colorful, lush, functioning landscape using low water use desert adapted plants. Controller Scheduling and Water Management Thursday, April 26, 6:30 pm, at the Southeast Regional Library. Learn how to correctly set your landscape controller, and how to detrmine your landscapes water needs. These workshops are limited to 30 people and fill up fast, so register early! To register, call 480-503-6878, leave your name, address, and phone number and the class you would like to sign up for. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_19206795==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" In Mesa:
Spring in the Desert Garden Fair - Saturday, April 7, 2001, 10:00 am - 2:00 pm
Sop for your favorite plants, and pick up some gardening and landscaping advice at the Mesa Harper's Nursery & Flower shop, 1830 E. McKellips road.  Look for experts on citrus, roses, Xeriscape, irrigation, desert plants and more.  Participants include Desert Tree Farm, Horizon Irrigation, A-to-Z Rentals, City of Mesa Water Conservation, U of A Cooperative Extension, Greenfield Citrus nursery and Gazinka's Backyard.  Just some of the experts you may run into include Mary Irish, Terry Mikel, and Michelle Rauscher.  Call Harper's Nursery at 480-964-4909 for more information.

April 18 - The Mysteries of Landscape Watering, 6:30 - 9:00 pm
Landscape Water Scheduling & Controller Programming.  If you're mystified about landscape watering, you're not alone.  This workshop will explain landscape plant water needs and will provide instruction on programming your timer clock.  This free class is sponsored by the City of Mesa Water Conservation office, and will take place at the Utilities Department Community Room, 640 N. Mesa Drive.  Call 480-644-5384 to register.

April 24 - Creating a Water-Wise Landscape with Native Plants, 6:30-8:30 pm.
Join us at the mesa Public Library as Judy Mielke, landscape architect and author of native Plants for Southwestern Landscapes explains how to use native plants to beautify residential settings and still ensure wise water use.  Judy's book and signing will be available at the end of the program.  Saguaro Room, Mesa Public Library, main Branch, 64 E. First Street.  Registration is not required, but seating is limited.  Call 480-644-3726 or 480-644-3334 for more information.  Co-sponsored by Mesa Public Library and City of Mesa Water Conservation.

In Gilbert:
Drip Irrigation; from Start to Flourish
Thursday, April 5, 6:30 pm, at the Southeast Regional Library.  Familiarize yourself with installing and maintaining your drip system.

Landscaping with Low Water Use Plants
Saturdays, April 21 and 28, 8:00 am, at McQueen Park Activity Center, 510 N. Horne St.  Create a colorful, lush, functioning landscape using low water use desert adapted plants.

Controller Scheduling and Water Management
Thursday, April 26, 6:30 pm, at the Southeast Regional Library.  Learn how to correctly set your landscape controller, and how to detrmine your landscapes water needs.

These workshops are limited to 30 people and fill up fast, so register early!  To register, call 480-503-6878, leave your name, address, and phone number and the class you would like to sign up for.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_19206795==_.ALT-- From MarjorieLockhart@msn.com Fri Apr 6 21:01:09 2001 From: MarjorieLockhart@msn.com (MarjorieLockhart@msn.com) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:01:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104062101.f36L19d09720@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We planted a pink grapefruit tree a year ago.The tree had 3 grapefruit growing but never reached maturity. Tree seems to be growing slowly. Some yellow leaves appear at times. Still green but lacks something. What? Need help. Thanks. From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Fri Apr 6 21:10:10 2001 From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net (raymond.tierney2@gte.net) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:10:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104062110.f36LAAd11164@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I was given a small plant called a flowering bamboo. It is in a rock soil with water only. It has produced some small green leaves on the bamboo stem. What care is necessary for this plant. Thank You From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 6 22:43:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 18:43:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Tree, newly planted not bearing fruit Message-ID: <29.12f7cf8d.27ffa09d@aol.com> Marjorie, Citrus trees do not bear much fruiut until the tree has been in the ground four years. It is normal for citrus to have yellow leaves in the spring, if the leaves do not green up soon then you may be over watering. Check out this website on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From labladylacey@aol.com Fri Apr 6 23:58:39 2001 From: labladylacey@aol.com (labladylacey@aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 16:58:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104062358.f36Nwdd09584@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am the landscape committee chair for our homeowners assn. We have Chinese Elm trees that are about 15 years old and dying off methodically from Texas Root Rot (this was diagnosed by an arborist who had a lab test performed). The only water these trees receive is from rain or the sprinklers used for watering the lawn. Our current landscaper would like to put watering tubes around the root line of the trees for the purpose of deeper watering (about 4 feet) and fertilizing. The board has obtained information from someone at Botannical Gardens indicating that surface watering of these trees should be sufficient. My question is whether or not deeper watering of the trees would help to prevent them from dying from root rot. Also, when the trees do die, they are replaced by FanTex Ash which is supposed to be more resistant to root rot. A couple of these trees have died within a year or so of planting. Could this be related to the current method of watering? Where can I locate information on the appropriate watering of these types of trees? Thanks for your help. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 7 00:13:12 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 00:13:12 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] flowering bamboo Message-ID: The plant might be Lucky bamboo = dracaena sanderiana. If it is: Dracaena,in general, prefer bright light but not direct sunlight. They need warm temperatures, 65-75 degrees F. They like plentiful water and high humidity and this particular one grows well in water. Fertilize during active growing period only. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2001 14:10:10 -0700 (MST) > >I was given a small plant called a flowering bamboo. It is in a rock soil >with water only. It has produced some small green leaves on the bamboo >stem. What care is necessary for this plant. Thank You > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From norma rebenar" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BECE.FEF3B9E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have 16 potato plants coming up in my vegetable garden. I planted the = chunks of seed potatoes in a raised bed on January 21. At first, the = surface of the bed was level; however, two weeks ago we mounded dirt up = around the plants, leaving a furrow in which we have laid a soaker hose = hooked to a drip system. The plants are getting three hours of drip = irrigation every 7-10 days.We have noticed that approximately six of the = plants look stunted, and their leaves are curled. Can you help me to = diagnose the problem so that I can try to control it before it takes = over all of the potato plants? I can be reached by e-mail at: normapz@earthlink.net or by phone at = 480-488-3070. Thank you so much. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BECE.FEF3B9E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have 16 potato plants coming up in = my=20 vegetable garden.  I planted the chunks of seed potatoes in a = raised bed on=20 January 21.  At first, the surface of the bed was level; however, = two weeks=20 ago we mounded dirt up around the plants, leaving a furrow in which we = have laid=20 a soaker hose hooked to a drip system.  The plants are getting = three hours=20 of drip irrigation every 7-10 days.We have noticed that approximately = six of the=20 plants look stunted, and their leaves are curled.  Can you help me = to=20 diagnose the problem so that I can try to control it before it takes = over all of=20 the potato plants?
 
I can be reached by e-mail at:  = normapz@earthlink.net or by = phone at=20 480-488-3070.     Thank you so=20 much.
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BECE.FEF3B9E0-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 7 13:54:59 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 13:54:59 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes, "purple" Message-ID: Tomatoes prefer a fertile, deep, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 (slightly acid to neutral). From your description, the soil seems O.K. Soil temperatures should be 60 degrees and air temperature 50 degrees or above, so I think the cold tmperatures after planting may have caused the young plants to go into dormancy (chemical processes necessary for growth slow down and the plant 'rests').When the soil warms growth should start again. (Peppers and peas will torerate cool spells). A couple of other thoughts -- don't mulch until the soil is warmed up; don't plant tomatoes where they have grown in the last two years (rotate crops) to help prevent disease; plants are more likely to succumb to soilborne diseases if the soil is coll and damp. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Milton Holub" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes, "purple" >Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 07:37:28 -0500 > >You may be right about the temperature. I live in Katy (suburb of Houston >Texas) and we have had a colder than usual winter, or should I say a more >normal winter than the last 4-5 years. The temperature did get in the 40's >a few days after I planted, (I planted on Spring Break March 10th). I have >planted this early in the past, but perhaps it was a bit chilly. The soil >appears to me to be too mulched or too light and I am concerned that may be >my problem. Can you tell me if tomatoes like a light airy soil or do they >tend to like more dense sandy soil? > >The purple color is starting to dissipate but I don't see much growth and I >am still getting yellow leaves on the bottom. I don't see any spider mites >which seems to always be a problem in Texas. Everything else seems to be >coming up fine. The asparagus beans, peppers, squash and cucumbers came up >very nicely and are adding leaves. Only the tomatoes that don't seem to >like something. > >Thank you for sending me your advise. You may be right in the fact that >the >tomatoes may be stunned by the cold weather soon after planting. > >Milton from Katy > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 8 01:46:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 21:46:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Root Rot Message-ID: <7a.130f6cc5.28011cfa@aol.com> The Texas Root Rot fungi is known to be present in most of the lower elevations of southern Arizona. Once the TRR fungi have been identified on a site the fungi can attack any susceptable tree that is planted in the infected site. Soil treatment with a chemical called VAPAM as well as improving the soil with manure, amonium sulfate and sulfur will greatly reduce the chances of infection by the TRR fungi. Constantly moist soil conditions provide a favorable atmosphere for the TRR fungi. Deep watering is a must for trees and plants in our low desert but will not prevent TRR. Surface watering just is not adequate for trees and shrubs here in our desert with its alkaline soils and salty water. The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation will give you lots of information on watering trees and plants and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html The publication "Root Rot in Arizona" is available at Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00 and will help you understand more about Texas Root Rot. I would suggest that you consider one of the desert adapted trees that are resistant to TRR. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Sun Apr 8 02:03:31 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 19:03:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pre-emergent Weed Killer Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BF95.700238C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have not used pre-emergent weed killer and I'm not sure that I'm going to do so next year. But I wonder - can this be used on gravel to stop weeds from coming up? All the references I see are for grassy areas. I have been going around and popping up the weeds with my handy-dandy weed tool or spot-killing them with a chemical. This has been working but it's a pain-in-the-neck during times when I do a lot of traveling and am not around to do this. So I'm wondering if it would be easier to use a pre-emergent early in the season - though I'm not wild about spreading chemicals all over the place like that. Does anybody have any thoughts? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BF95.700238C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have not used = pre-emergent=20 weed killer and I'm not sure that I'm going to do so next year.  = But I=20 wonder - can this be used on gravel to stop weeds from coming up?  = All the=20 references I see are for grassy areas.
 
I have been going = around and=20 popping up the weeds with my handy-dandy weed tool or spot-killing them = with a=20 chemical.  This has been working but it's a pain-in-the-neck during = times=20 when I do a lot of traveling and am not around to do this.  So=20 I'm wondering if it would be easier to use a pre-emergent early in = the=20 season - though I'm not wild about spreading chemicals all over the = place like=20 that.
 
Does anybody have = any=20 thoughts?
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0BF95.700238C0-- From 71653.2105@compuserve.com Sun Apr 8 02:41:32 2001 From: 71653.2105@compuserve.com (71653.2105@compuserve.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 19:41:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104080241.f382fWd07743@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm in the process of moving and would like to take a piece of my totem pole cactus with me to my new residence. How do I go about doing this without killing the plant or causing disease? How much time do I have to get it back in soil? Thanks. From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 8 02:55:07 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 19:55:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Propagating Cacti from Cuttings References: <200104080241.f382fWd07743@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACFD30A.1A3A6659@qwest.net> The following link will take you to the section in the Master Gardener Manual on propagating cacti: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/cacti/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener 71653.2105@compuserve.com wrote: > I'm in the process of moving and would like to take a piece of my totem pole cactus with me to my new residence. How do I go about doing this without killing the plant or causing disease? How much time do I have to get it back in soil? Thanks. > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Pabaferd@Juno.com Sun Apr 8 03:11:27 2001 From: Pabaferd@Juno.com (Pabaferd@Juno.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 20:11:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104080311.f383BRd12309@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a 6 year old grapefruit tree that is growing well, but has low growing branches and seems to be sending out two main branches on one side of the tree. Can or should these be cut back to "shape" the tree or will cutting increase the growth on that side whereas I would like to encourage growth on the opposite side. From Pabaferd@Juno.com Sun Apr 8 03:12:58 2001 From: Pabaferd@Juno.com (Pabaferd@Juno.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2001 20:12:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104080312.f383Cwd12408@Ag.Arizona.Edu> A question re ocotillos. I understand a cutting can be taken and will root in pushed into the ground. How long should a cutting be and should it be dried or hardened off before pushing into the ground? From bjbigham@earthlink.net Sun Apr 8 02:39:29 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2001 20:39:29 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pre-emergent Weed Killer References: Message-ID: <3ACFCF61.6D12C8D0@earthlink.net> Hi, Ursula ... I'm **NOT** an expert on gardening by any means, but I happen to have experience with pre-emergents, so perhaps I can help. Yes, pre-emergent weed killers can definitely be used on gravel areas. Like you, I'm not a fan of chemical herbicides, but I had a terrible time with weeds the past few years on my desert/gravel front yard. I've created quite a haven for birds and that means seeds all over the place. The weeds had gotten so bad I got a warning notice from my *&^#_$*&_* home owners association. I was out there pulling them by hand as often as possible, but they would pop up as quickly as I pulled. I had a weed company come out and apply pre-emerge and it did the trick (although it has to be done on a regular basis). It hasn't seemed to hurt any of the birds, bugs, or plants. Barbara, East Mesa > Ursula Miller wrote: > > I have not used pre-emergent weed killer and I'm not sure that I'm > going to do so next year. But I wonder - can this be used on gravel > to stop weeds from coming up? All the references I see are for grassy > areas. > > I have been going around and popping up the weeds with my handy-dandy > weed tool or spot-killing them with a chemical. This has been working > but it's a pain-in-the-neck during times when I do a lot of traveling > and am not around to do this. So I'm wondering if it would be easier > to use a pre-emergent early in the season - though I'm not wild about > spreading chemicals all over the place like that. > > Does anybody have any thoughts? > > Ursula Miller > From dabl@inficad.com Sun Apr 8 15:52:38 2001 From: dabl@inficad.com (dabl@inficad.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 08:52:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104081552.f38Fqcd00991@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had little success in growing gourds in my Phoenix garden. When do I plant and what care do they need? Whould I follow the same rules for cucumbers and mellons? Thanks, Dean From KenAnnToll@aol.com Sun Apr 8 18:41:15 2001 From: KenAnnToll@aol.com (KenAnnToll@aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 11:41:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104081841.f38IfFd24234@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I take soil for analysis in the Phoenix area? We recently relandscaped and brought in a load of "top-soil" and planted our tomatoes in it 6 weeks ago. The plants are not growing and appear to be shriveling up in spite of this good looking soil. We have been growing tomatoes for years and have never had this problem. Any suggestions? From Siderson@aol.com Mon Apr 9 02:19:07 2001 From: Siderson@aol.com (Siderson@aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 19:19:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104090219.f392J7d29951@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Does anyone have any good suggestions on composting in Phoenix. I am not getting very good results so far....Thank you. From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 9 17:14:57 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 10:14:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia origins & questions References: <200104090219.f392J7d29951@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD1EE11.D983D41F@AuroraNow.org> The WGB book doesn't list the origins of specific salvias. Can anyone tell me the origins of my favorites in my yard? s. greggi s. leucantha s. clevelandii (smells sooooooooo good!) I have one other salvia maybe someone can help me i.d. I purchased it last year from Home Depot, *very* inexpensive as a half flat. I think Home Depot sold it as an annual, but mine have all come back nicely and are flowering again. I believe it is a mealy-cup sage (s. farinacea) or common (s. officinalis). Which would most likely be sold in flats like an annual by a big-box nursery? Which salvia variety(ies) can be used for culinary seasoning and which is the traditional sage used for incense? Does anyone know? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From jbbell310@cs.com Mon Apr 9 16:45:22 2001 From: jbbell310@cs.com (jbbell310@cs.com) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 09:45:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104091645.f39GjMC01211@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are looking for a (humane)way to keep neighborhood cats from laying on and flattening our 'soft' plants. Is there any repellent natural or chemical for cats. Thanks From darengaylor@hotmail.com Mon Apr 9 20:27:07 2001 From: darengaylor@hotmail.com (darengaylor@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:27:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104092027.f39KR7C02572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in growing grapes here at my home in phoenix. I bought 2 thompson seedless green grape vines that i would like to grow on my pool fence, in full sun, with drip irrigation. Is this ideal? Also, can they be grown in pots or must I place them in the ground? Thanks. From darrengaylor@hotmail.com Mon Apr 9 20:28:06 2001 From: darrengaylor@hotmail.com (darrengaylor@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:28:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104092028.f39KS5C02840@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in growing grapes here at my home in phoenix. I bought 2 thompson seedless green grape vines that i would like to grow on my pool fence, in full sun, with drip irrigation. Is this ideal? Also, can they be grown in pots or must I place them in the ground? Thanks. ps: this message has my correct email address, the previous message i posted did not. thanks again. From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Apr 9 20:46:31 2001 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 13:46:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104092046.f39KkVC08674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We need help quick! The health and appearance of our common grounds depends on it... (1) Do arborists operating in Maricopa county need a license to do so? If so, from whom? (2) Is there a registry where one can locate a qualified individual or company? (3) What training is required to become a "certified arborist"? Where is training provided, and is there a "degree" or "certificate" upon completion? This information is urgently required and any expeditious treatment it could be given would be VERY VERY much appreciated...thanking you in advance...Jeannie From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 21:21:27 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 14:21:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating a Certified Arborist References: <200104092046.f39KkVC08674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD227D7.B829FD50@qwest.net> The following link will take you to the International Society of Arboriculture site, which has information on hiring an arborist as well as locating a certified arborist in your area. go to http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Sue Bass Master Gardener dkrob6@earthlink.net wrote: > We need help quick! The health and appearance of our common grounds depends on it... > (1) Do arborists operating in Maricopa county need a license to do so? If so, from whom? > (2) Is there a registry where one can locate a qualified individual or company? > (3) What training is required to become a "certified arborist"? Where is training provided, and is there a "degree" or "certificate" upon completion? > > This information is urgently required and any expeditious treatment it could be given would be VERY VERY much appreciated...thanking you in advance...Jeannie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:24:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:24:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Certified Arborists References: <200104092046.f39KkVC08674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD236AF.E5756598@qwest.net> The information you seek can be found at http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Good luck with your urgent needs! Linda Guy, MG dkrob6@earthlink.net wrote: > We need help quick! The health and appearance of our common grounds depends on it... > (1) Do arborists operating in Maricopa county need a license to do so? If so, from whom? > (2) Is there a registry where one can locate a qualified individual or company? > (3) What training is required to become a "certified arborist"? Where is training provided, and is there a "degree" or "certificate" upon completion? > > This information is urgently required and any expeditious treatment it could be given would be VERY VERY much appreciated...thanking you in advance...Jeannie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:32:00 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:32:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pre-emergent Weed Killer References: Message-ID: <3AD23860.A5C04771@qwest.net> --------------CB220F361507725A10EC7189 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have on occassion used pre-emergents in the xeriscaped areas of my homes. But some things to remember. You don't generally get a full year's worth of protection [ie spray in Oct/Nov for winter annual weeds, but don't expect much help on spurge in the warming weather]. You won't be able to grow wildflowers in the area. And you can maximize results by not disturbing the gravel after a spray, creating a protective shield as it were. The less disturbance, the better. Linda Guy, MG Ursula Miller wrote: > I have not used pre-emergent weed killer and I'm not sure that I'm > going to do so next year. But I wonder - can this be used on gravel > to stop weeds from coming up? All the references I see are for grassy > areas.I have been going around and popping up the weeds with my > handy-dandy weed tool or spot-killing them with a chemical. This has > been working but it's a pain-in-the-neck during times when I do a lot > of traveling and am not around to do this. So I'm wondering if it > would be easier to use a pre-emergent early in the season - though I'm > not wild about spreading chemicals all over the place like that.Does > anybody have any thoughts?Ursula Miller --------------CB220F361507725A10EC7189 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have on occassion used pre-emergents in the xeriscaped areas of my homes. But some things to remember. You don't generally get a full year's worth of protection [ie spray in Oct/Nov for winter annual weeds, but don't expect much help on spurge in the warming weather]. You won't be able to grow wildflowers in the area. And you can maximize results by not disturbing the gravel after a spray, creating a protective shield as it were. The less disturbance, the better.

Linda Guy, MG

Ursula Miller wrote:

 I have not used pre-emergent weed killer and I'm not sure that I'm going to do so next year.  But I wonder - can this be used on gravel to stop weeds from coming up?  All the references I see are for grassy areas.I have been going around and popping up the weeds with my handy-dandy weed tool or spot-killing them with a chemical.  This has been working but it's a pain-in-the-neck during times when I do a lot of traveling and am not around to do this.  So I'm wondering if it would be easier to use a pre-emergent early in the season - though I'm not wild about spreading chemicals all over the place like that.Does anybody have any thoughts?Ursula Miller 
--------------CB220F361507725A10EC7189-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:33:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:33:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vegetable Damage ID References: <9f.13b9befc.280239ef@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AD238D2.8DE98119@qwest.net> --------------0FA091C551F142994C05E149 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All caterpillars can be addressed with a "green" solution called Bt, a bacterial product. I've had good success with different caterpillars on different plant material. Linda Guy, MG T2Thraen@aol.com wrote: > thanks i found a green caterpillar looking thing on the underside of a > leaf > is this a cut worm? and is it consistent with the damage of leaf > eating > looking like bite marks and irregular? what can i do anything > organic?? > thanks again theresa --------------0FA091C551F142994C05E149 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit All caterpillars can be addressed with a "green" solution called Bt, a bacterial product. I've had good success with different caterpillars on different plant material.

Linda Guy, MG

T2Thraen@aol.com wrote:

thanks i found a green caterpillar looking thing on the underside of a leaf
is this a cut worm? and is it consistent with the damage of leaf eating
looking like bite marks and irregular? what can i do anything organic??
thanks again theresa
--------------0FA091C551F142994C05E149-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:38:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:38:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting References: <200104090219.f392J7d29951@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD239CE.4524786C@qwest.net> Here are a few web links for you at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost Also http://www.cfe.cornell.edu/compost/Composting_homepage.html http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/compost.htm You don't mention why you feel you've been unsuccessful...... Linda Guy, MG Siderson@aol.com wrote: > Does anyone have any good suggestions on > composting in Phoenix. I am not getting very > good results so far....Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 9 22:40:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 18:40:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arborists information Message-ID: <8.12ca6a31.2803946e@aol.com> << We need help quick! The health and appearance of our common grounds depends on it... (1) Do arborists operating in Maricopa county need a license to do so? If so, from whom? The State of Arizona Registrar of Contracters office has informed me that Arizona does not require Arborists to be licensed unless they are planting trees, they then must have a contracters license. A contracters license can be verified by calling the Registrar of Contracters office with the contracters license number. (2) Is there a registry where one can locate a qualified individual or company? The International Arborists Assoc. maintains a list of Certified Arborists which can be found on line at: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html (3) What training is required to become a "certified arborist"? Where is training provided, and is there a "degree" or "certificate" upon completion? To become certified an arborist must have three years experience and pass a rigid exam. Annual training courses are held at some location in .Arizona. The training course that I took several years ago was held at the U. of A. Cooperative Extension in Phoenix. A certificate is awarded by the International Arborists Assoc. A Certified Arborist will very likely wear an ISA patch on his shirt or jacket. This information is urgently required and any expeditious treatment it could be given would be VERY VERY much appreciated...thanking you in advance...Jeannie Hope this answers your questions. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist >> From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:40:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:40:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Suckers References: <200104080311.f383BRd12309@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD23A6B.DEE9478B@qwest.net> Indeed it is a very good idea to remove this lower growth. If it is below the graft union, it may actually be a straggler from the root stock which is often not the same as the citrus grafted above. Linda Guy, MG Pabaferd@Juno.com wrote: > We have a 6 year old grapefruit tree that is growing well, but has low growing branches and seems to be sending out two main branches on one side of the tree. Can or should these be cut back to "shape" the tree or will cutting increase the growth on that side whereas I would like to encourage growth on the opposite side. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:43:15 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:43:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Testing References: <200104081841.f38IfFd24234@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD23B03.D60C34BF@qwest.net> A list of soil labs is at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Could it be that they've been in cooler temps than in recent years.? Linda Guy, MG KenAnnToll@aol.com wrote: > Where can I take soil for analysis in the Phoenix area? We recently relandscaped and brought in a load of "top-soil" and planted our tomatoes in it 6 weeks ago. The plants are not growing and appear to be shriveling up in spite of this good looking soil. We have been growing tomatoes for years and have never had this problem. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 9 22:52:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 15:52:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Using DE for Scorpion Control References: <200103301611.f2UGBY429951@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD23D27.DE92BCF0@qwest.net> I've not heard it used for scorpions. Depending on where you put it, it is easily washed away. The worst problem, I believe, is breathing it in. Check out the following for some helpful pointers http://www.azpest.com/scorp.htm The best strategy is to carefully remove habitat [piled brush, rocks, etc.], let a cat outdoors on occassion [as long as you are a good neighbor and don't let it stray!], and use a blacklight at night to see how rampant the problem is and if your efforts are having an impact. Most stores with pest control supplies carry products that address scorpions, but that doesn't need to be your first tactic. Linda Guy, MG gmastin@primenet.com wrote: > I have read that you can use DE ( diatamaecous earth ) to help in the control of scorpions. Is this true? > Will this also cause harmful effects on lizards and garden snakes? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Mon Apr 9 23:03:14 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2001 16:03:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia origins & questions In-Reply-To: <3AD1EE11.D983D41F@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - I'm a salvia lover, too. I planted a 'bed' of them - red and blue two years ago. It looked great and then the following year it became a jungle - totally out of control. Who would have thought that those few plants would go crazy like that? Anyway, I have it all back under control and love them all. I gathered the following information from my Botanica tome - a book you would not want to read in bed because if you fell asleep the book would break your nose. Greggi is native from Texas into Mexico. Laucantha comes from Mexico and tropical central America. I can't find anything specific on clevelandii as far as history goes. But overall, my book says that they are the largest genus of the mint family, with over 900 species distributed through most parts of the world except very cold regions. The genus name goes back to Roman times and derives from the Latin salvus, "safe" or "well", referring to the supposed healing property of Salvia officianalis. On the other two - farinacea is grown as an annual in cold winter area. It is a short-lived perennial in warmer climates though it can live up to five years with a little shade in the afternoon. It comes from Texas and Mexico. It grows 24-36" and bears lavender-like deep violet leaves on slender stems. Officinalis comes from Spain, the Balkans and NOrth Africa. It is frost-hardy and a short-lived perennial that grows to 30 inches high and wide with downy gray-green oval leaves with blush-mauve flowers in the summer. I don't know which one you bought. Sounds like it was farinacea. Officinalis is the standard cooking sage. I don't know about using it for incense. But maybe you can smoke it. :-) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 10:15 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia origins & questions The WGB book doesn't list the origins of specific salvias. Can anyone tell me the origins of my favorites in my yard? s. greggi s. leucantha s. clevelandii (smells sooooooooo good!) I have one other salvia maybe someone can help me i.d. I purchased it last year from Home Depot, *very* inexpensive as a half flat. I think Home Depot sold it as an annual, but mine have all come back nicely and are flowering again. I believe it is a mealy-cup sage (s. farinacea) or common (s. officinalis). Which would most likely be sold in flats like an annual by a big-box nursery? Which salvia variety(ies) can be used for culinary seasoning and which is the traditional sage used for incense? Does anyone know? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From budhillyer@earthlink.net Tue Apr 10 02:47:03 2001 From: budhillyer@earthlink.net (budhillyer) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2001 19:47:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Crinkled Naval Orange tree leaves Message-ID: <3AD27427.20BA4E74@earthlink.net> I just purchased a large Naval Orange tree - and after planting it noticed that fully a third of the leaves on all new growth have brittle leaves - curled and crinkled with a brownish stain like water marks covering portions of the top side of the leaves. The bottom of the leaves affected seem to be puckers like "Quilting ". What can be the cause of this . I have other lemon and grapefruit trees and want to make sure I will not infect them with a disease on this "new arrival". Thank. I. Bud Hillyer budhillyer@earthlink.net From molinas@aol.com Tue Apr 10 16:45:03 2001 From: molinas@aol.com (molinas@aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 09:45:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104101645.f3AGj3C02676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> A friend has issues with birds consuming his ice plant. They have tried owls, and whilygigs. Would sprinkling pepper on the ice plant work? From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 10 17:38:28 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:38:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104101645.f3AGj3C02676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD34514.B00CBF64@AuroraNow.org> > A friend has issues with birds consuming his ice plant. They have tried owls, and whilygigs. Would sprinkling > pepper on the ice plant work? Are you sure it's the birds and not the bunnies? Don't ask me what it is about these plants, but they are a definite critter-delicacy. Even chicken wire didn't do the trick for me (don't ask me how they got past it, but they did). Neither did cayenne pepper, repellents, making my dogs "water" the plants--nothing. My solution: I pulled up my last few stubs and put them in containers, on raised plant stands and planted salvias and lantanas in the ground that the critters don't eat (at least as much). It just seemed sort of paradoxical to me to plant something for its beauty then have to cover it up with chicken wire or something to "save" it. Not the ideal solution, I know. Maybe one of the list experts has another idea, but I think I've heard and tried them all. Some solutions just aren't bottled. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From pamela@u.arizona.edu Tue Apr 10 17:15:36 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 10:15:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] birds and iceplant References: <200104101645.f3AGj3C02676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AD34514.B00CBF64@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <009701c0c1e1$de9234e0$0f02000a@computer> We also have/had problems with birds eating our iceplants. They seem to like to go after the smaller ones too--the ones they could kill if they ate too much. We lost a few, then got wise and covered them with netting. Fortunately, after they were big enough (covered 1 square foot or more), the birds didn't do as much damage and we no longer needed the netting. They still munch on them, but the damage is minimal as these plants now cover a 10 by 5 foot area. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2001 10:38 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > A friend has issues with birds consuming his ice plant. They have tried owls, and whilygigs. Would sprinkling > > pepper on the ice plant work? > > Are you sure it's the birds and not the bunnies? Don't ask me what it is > about these plants, but they are a definite critter-delicacy. Even > chicken wire didn't do the trick for me (don't ask me how they got past > it, but they did). Neither did cayenne pepper, repellents, making my > dogs "water" the plants--nothing. > > My solution: I pulled up my last few stubs and put them in containers, > on raised plant stands and planted salvias and lantanas in the ground > that the critters don't eat (at least as much). It just seemed sort of > paradoxical to me to plant something for its beauty then have to cover > it up with chicken wire or something to "save" it. > > Not the ideal solution, I know. Maybe one of the list experts has > another idea, but I think I've heard and tried them all. Some solutions > just aren't bottled. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Apr 10 18:54:10 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 11:54:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <3AD34514.B00CBF64@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <20010410185410.28266.qmail@web2304.mail.yahoo.com> I'm not sure either of what eats the ice plants. Whatever it is, at least in my yard seems to be "color conditioned". I have several ice plants with the pink flowers, of all sizes in my yard, and they are fine. I have tried planting the ones with yellow flowers twice, and they didn't last a month. I keep on finding them all chewed up and chunks all around. I think I'm giving up and sticking to pink. Barbara --- Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > > A friend has issues with birds consuming his ice > plant. They have tried owls, and whilygigs. Would > sprinkling > > pepper on the ice plant work? > > Are you sure it's the birds and not the bunnies? > Don't ask me what it is > about these plants, but they are a definite > critter-delicacy. Even > chicken wire didn't do the trick for me (don't ask > me how they got past > it, but they did). Neither did cayenne pepper, > repellents, making my > dogs "water" the plants--nothing. > > My solution: I pulled up my last few stubs and put > them in containers, > on raised plant stands and planted salvias and > lantanas in the ground > that the critters don't eat (at least as much). It > just seemed sort of > paradoxical to me to plant something for its beauty > then have to cover > it up with chicken wire or something to "save" it. > > Not the ideal solution, I know. Maybe one of the > list experts has > another idea, but I think I've heard and tried them > all. Some solutions > just aren't bottled. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. > " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From bjbigham@earthlink.net Tue Apr 10 18:08:00 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:08:00 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104101645.f3AGj3C02676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AD34514.B00CBF64@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AD34C00.3205F70D@earthlink.net> Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > >> Are you sure it's the birds and not the bunnies? I don't know about everyone's ice plants, but I caught the birds eating mine red handed! I couldn't understand what was destroying my plants since I couldn't see any worms or other critters (even at night with a flashlight). I live in a well developed area, so I didn't even consider bunnies or other animals. Then, I was looking out my window and saw four or five birds happily enjoying the plants for lunch. They were munching on them like worms! Within less than a week, they had completely devoured two newly planted plants. Oddly enough, I have tons of ice plants in the back yard which are doing fine (perhaps my cat patrol keeps them in line back there). Barbara (East Mesa) From saz621@primenet.com Tue Apr 10 19:11:57 2001 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2001 12:11:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Salvia clevelandii References: <9f.13b9befc.280239ef@aol.com> <3AD238D2.8DE98119@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AD35AFC.6A411DE9@primenet.com> Dear all, Salvia clevelandii is native to southern California, particularly the dry chaparral hilles, into Baja California. Mary Irish From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Apr 11 14:24:33 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 07:24:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus problems References: <200104041526.f34FQ7d01352@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD46921.8818E7@qwest.net> I'd like to share a response I got from Hidden Valley Hibiscus recently. I have been having the same problems with my potted hibs. Here is what I was told, hope it helps you: Hi Sue Here is a short excerpt from our cd "Growing Hidden Valley Hibiscus at Home" in regards to your question: "The leaves are turning yellow on my plant, many buds fall off and the flowers that do open are very small. What's wrong? It may be that you have placed the plant in much more hot sun than it was in at the nursery. It may just have to acclimate to the new conditions, which means drop a lot of leaves and put on new ones. Or, it may be rootbound, or the drainage holes may be plugged up, or you are watering it a lot more or a lot less than it is accustomed to. Hibiscus are tough and can come back from a lot of problems, so I suggest you start with checking that the holes do indeed drain water easily by pouring enough in so it runs out the holes. If that is OK, see how long it takes for the pot to need water again. If it is less than a day you probably need a bigger pot and likely the plant is rootbound. If you have placed it in lots of full direct sun you might try moving it into partial shade and see if that makes a difference. In summer hibiscus need a lot of water, so try watering it every day if you have not been doing so." See also: "The tops of some of the leaves looking as if they had been painted brown. They're still crisp, not dropping off. What causes this and how can it be remedied? Sunburn, usually. They will adjust, but remember many hibiscus thrive in high light but not direct mid-day sun. Place them accordingly or rig up a little shade cloth." (101 Hibiscus Questions: Blooms & Leaves) Sue Bass suzperryman@aol.com wrote: > I have a potted hibiscus tree ( yellow flower)that suffered some stress last season- wind and not enough water..I have nursed it back adding enriching soil and nitrogen.. It's leaves are very curled and kind of dry yet I water it daily. If I skip a day I get yellow leaves on the plant. My other potted hibiscus ( red flower0 are doing fine, yet this plant still isn't blooming and looks a little sad. I have increased leaves this season, yet no buds. Recently, I had a mass of petunias grow in the base from natural seed spread, yet it didn't seem to affect it either way. Any suggestions how I can help it along?? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cbbr@cgmailbox.com Wed Apr 11 16:44:43 2001 From: cbbr@cgmailbox.com (cbbr@cgmailbox.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 09:44:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104111644.f3BGihC12403@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1. Citrus trees have yellow leaves. Do they need iron? 2. Citrus trees are 1-2 years old. How often should they be fed & watered? From jfpechous@earthlink.net Wed Apr 11 17:58:36 2001 From: jfpechous@earthlink.net (jfpechous@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 10:58:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104111758.f3BHwaC05301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Dear Sir: We have a variety of Oleander that is quite long leaved and seems to grow rapidly and spreads side ways. They are very deferent then the ones we see that are more like a bush. Each stem grows from the ground up with out any laddering branches? When should this type be Pruned to keep them from spreading sideways? Thanks for any advice you can give. Sincerely Yours Joseph F. Pechous From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 11 22:06:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:06:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Welding Class Message-ID: <3AD4D550.482CDC3C@qwest.net> Anyone know where there's a welding class for beginners? Looking to make some of those cutesy but overpriced garden doodahs. My husband knows how, but this was the one thing I thought I'd learn better from someone else. [Too much fire, aaggghhhh!] I'm in the Arcadia neighborhood of east Phoenix, close to central Scottsdale, Tempe and Phoenix. Thanks! From mccoco@aol.com Wed Apr 11 22:27:17 2001 From: mccoco@aol.com (mccoco@aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:27:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104112227.f3BMRGC24026@Ag.Arizona.Edu> how is it possible to kill the burmuda grass in an area that there are flowers without killing the flowers. From bjbigham@earthlink.net Wed Apr 11 21:38:59 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:38:59 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104112227.f3BMRGC24026@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD4CEF3.5E360CFD@earthlink.net> I'll look forward to the answers you receive. The only way I've found to do it is to dig the *&^)#* stuff out. I have a "grass-less" yard and yet the darned stuff got into one of my flower beds. I've pulled and pulled and dug it out ... only to have it come back. Barbara mccoco@aol.com wrote: > how is it possible to kill the burmuda grass in an area that there are flowers without killing the flowers. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From pamela@u.arizona.edu Wed Apr 11 22:44:58 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 15:44:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass References: <200104112227.f3BMRGC24026@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AD4CEF3.5E360CFD@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <001001c0c2d9$09d01ee0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> One way that works (if you don't have tons of it and if it isn't tangled up too much with the flowers) is to take concerntrated Round-up and "paint" the grass with a small paintbrush. This allows you to control where the Round-up goes and it will kill the grass off given 1 to 2 weeks to work. Pamela ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barbara Bigham" To: Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 2:38 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I'll look forward to the answers you receive. The only way I've found to do it is to dig the *&^)#* stuff out. > I have a "grass-less" yard and yet the darned stuff got into one of my flower beds. I've pulled and pulled and > dug it out ... only to have it come back. > > Barbara > > mccoco@aol.com wrote: > > > how is it possible to kill the burmuda grass in an area that there are flowers without killing the flowers. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 11 22:56:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 18:56:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus with yellow leaves Message-ID: <99.136beb84.28063b0c@aol.com> It is normal for citrus to have yellow leaves this time of year, however if the new leaves now coming out are yellow then you are probably over watering. Check out this website for info on citrus care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf When citrus trees are one year old they can be fertilized with two to four tablespoons of citrus fertilizer applied three times a year. In summer deep water the trees once every week to 10 days. A mulch around the tree will help to retain the moisture. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From lkapel@earthlink.net Thu Apr 12 04:50:39 2001 From: lkapel@earthlink.net (lkapel@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 21:50:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104120450.f3C4odC11716@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My Canyon Penstemon's have just about finished blooming and have fallen over from their own weight. Should they be cut down or just left until next spring? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Apr 12 15:29:48 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 08:29:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass References: <001001c0c2d9$09d01ee0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AD5C9EC.17C0B8F7@email.sps.mot.com> Another way I have controlled where it goes is to go ahead and mix it according to instructions. Put it in your sprayer. Take a large plastic soda bottle, and cut the bottom out of it. Tape the mouth of the bottle to your sprayer wand. Then you can set the bottle right over the grass or weed you want to eliminate, and spray it, without worrying about over spray blowing onto your flowers, bushes, etc. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > One way that works (if you don't have tons of it and if it isn't tangled up > too much with the flowers) is to take concerntrated Round-up and "paint" the > grass with a small paintbrush. This allows you to control where the > Round-up goes and it will kill the grass off given 1 to 2 weeks to work. > > Pamela > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Barbara Bigham" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2001 2:38 PM > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > > I'll look forward to the answers you receive. The only way I've found to > do it is to dig the *&^)#* stuff out. > > I have a "grass-less" yard and yet the darned stuff got into one of my > flower beds. I've pulled and pulled and > > dug it out ... only to have it come back. > > > > Barbara > > > > mccoco@aol.com wrote: > > > > > how is it possible to kill the burmuda grass in an area that there are > flowers without killing the flowers. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu Apr 12 16:08:43 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 12:08:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: question Message-ID: <48.1430172a.28072d0b@aol.com> --part1_48.1430172a.28072d0b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_48.1430172a.28072d0b_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc01.mx.aol.com (rly-yc01.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.33]) by air-yc05.mail.aol.com (v77_r1.36) with ESMTP; Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:47:58 -0500 Received: from yuha.menta.net (yuha.menta.net [212.78.128.42]) by rly-yc01.mx.aol.com (v77_r1.36) with ESMTP; Thu, 12 Apr 2001 11:47:23 -0400 Received: from gibson.menta.net ([212.78.128.22]) by yuha.menta.net (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) with ESMTP id GBORX201.V9U for ; Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:48:38 +0200 Received: from xavier ([62.57.126.51]) by gibson.menta.net (Netscape Messaging Server 4.15) with SMTP id GBORQ900.H7Y for ; Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:44:33 +0200 Message-ID: <000901c0c367$2bf072c0$337e393e@menta.net> From: "Anna Vinardell i Maristany" To: Subject: question Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:42:24 +0200 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0C377.EF2CF780" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2314.1300 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2314.1300 ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0C377.EF2CF780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable hi I am a spanish student of Barcelona and i am doing a terminologic research=20= about cacti. I found in the net your e-mail adress and i have learned that y= ou are a gardener, so perhaps you could help me: i am working with pests, an= d i have found the mealy bug, the root mealy bug ... and their equivalents i= n spanish and german, but now i am looking for the term in english fot the s= panish one "cochinilla de humedad", that could be a cochineal scale insect b= ut related with humidity. In german they're known as "Kellerassel". Mealy bu= gs are the same as cochineal scale insects? Perhaps you know some URL that c= an help me. Thank you very mucho for your attention I hope I get an answer, even if it is helpless. Sincerely,=20 Anna --------------------------------------- Anna Vinardell Maristany annavm@menta.net ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0C377.EF2CF780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
hi
 
I am a spanish student of Barcelona and=20= i am=20 doing a terminologic research about cacti. I found in the net your e-mail ad= ress=20 and i have learned that you are a gardener, so perhaps you could help me: i=20= am=20 working with pests, and i have found the mealy bug, the root mealy bug ... a= nd=20 their equivalents in spanish and german, but now i am looking for the term i= n=20 english fot the spanish one "cochinilla de humedad", that could be a cochine= al=20 scale insect but related with humidity. In german they're known as=20 "Kellerassel". Mealy bugs are the same as cochineal scale insects? Perhaps y= ou=20 know some URL that can help me.
Thank you very mucho for your=20 attention
I hope I get an answer, even if it is=20 helpless.
Sincerely,
Anna

-----------------------------------= ----
Anna Vinardell=20 Maristany
annavm@menta.net
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01C0C377.EF2CF780-- --part1_48.1430172a.28072d0b_boundary-- From farmboy@omniglobal.net Thu Apr 12 16:23:13 2001 From: farmboy@omniglobal.net (farmboy@omniglobal.net) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:23:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104121623.f3CGNDC04415@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have approximately 4 - 5 acres of Japanese Purpleleaf Honesuckle at our Corporate Office in Kerrville, TX. A Raspberry vine has encroached and is now infested. How can I remove it? Is there anything I can broadcast or spray? Is there any mechanical method? Previous years of pulling by hand has only made things worse. Heath Thompson Property Manager LD Brinkman Corp./ Mr. Gatti's Inc. From ariesterer@securityhardware.net Thu Apr 12 16:41:34 2001 From: ariesterer@securityhardware.net (ariesterer@securityhardware.net) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 09:41:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104121641.f3CGfYC09856@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In Wednesdays Arizona Republic Garden section, it is mentioned to thin deciduous fruit, leaving 6 inches between the fruit. I do not understand what they mean, please explain further. From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu Apr 12 17:02:57 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 10:02:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy moss Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010412095913.00a36b00@127.0.0.1> Hi all, I have an offer of some fairy moss for my pond but I have no idea what it is or if it could be considered a pest on this area like water hyacinth is in Florida. Does anyone know what it is, if it would grow here and if it would be suitable for this area (metro Phoenix)? I don't want to introduce anything that could be harmful to our lovely desert environment. I love it here but I will be singing a slightly different tune come July/Aug. Thanks for any help anyone can give me. Pat From craigpetty@mail.com Thu Apr 12 22:27:59 2001 From: craigpetty@mail.com (Craig Petty) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 15:27:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes and shade cloth Message-ID: <000801c0c39f$d5103740$5d47b118@phnx3.az.home.com> I noticed that you recommend covering tomatoes with shade cloth. Will they get enough sun if cloth is positioned such that they are covered most of the day? From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 12 22:38:51 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 15:38:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cochineal Scale References: <48.1430172a.28072d0b@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AD62E7B.FCE9274D@qwest.net> --------------1EB731776B333AC99D903E5D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anna: Hello! Here is a link to an article by the University of Arizona about Cochineal Scale that might be interesting to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html If I find anything else, I'll forward it on to you. Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ, USA JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: question > Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:42:24 +0200 > From: "Anna Vinardell i Maristany" > To: > > hi I am a spanish student of Barcelona and i am doing a terminologic > research about cacti. I found in the net your e-mail adress and i have > learned that you are a gardener, so perhaps you could help me: i am > working with pests, and i have found the mealy bug, the root mealy bug > ... and their equivalents in spanish and german, but now i am looking > for the term in english fot the spanish one "cochinilla de humedad", > that could be a cochineal scale insect but related with humidity. In > german they're known as "Kellerassel". Mealy bugs are the same as > cochineal scale insects? Perhaps you know some URL that can help > me.Thank you very mucho for your attentionI hope I get an answer, even > if it is helpless.Sincerely,Anna > --------------------------------------- > Anna Vinardell Maristany > annavm@menta.net --------------1EB731776B333AC99D903E5D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Anna:
Hello!  Here is a link to an article by the University of Arizona about Cochineal Scale that might be interesting to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html
If I find anything else, I'll forward it on to you.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Gilbert, AZ, USA

JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: 

 

Subject: question
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:42:24 +0200
From: "Anna Vinardell i Maristany" <annavm@menta.net>
To: <JeanSciFi@aol.com>

hi I am a spanish student of Barcelona and i am doing a terminologic research about cacti. I found in the net your e-mail adress and i have learned that you are a gardener, so perhaps you could help me: i am working with pests, and i have found the mealy bug, the root mealy bug ... and their equivalents in spanish and german, but now i am looking for the term in english fot the spanish one "cochinilla de humedad", that could be a cochineal scale insect but related with humidity. In german they're known as "Kellerassel". Mealy bugs are the same as cochineal scale insects? Perhaps you know some URL that can help me.Thank you very mucho for your attentionI hope I get an answer, even if it is helpless.Sincerely,Anna 
---------------------------------------
Anna Vinardell Maristany
annavm@menta.net

--------------1EB731776B333AC99D903E5D-- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 12 23:27:43 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:27:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal question Message-ID: <3AD639EF.39F39433@qwest.net> Jean: Just wanted you to know that I noticed when I responded to the Cochineal question from Spain my response didn't make it to her. I have since forwarded my response to Anna. Sue Bass From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 12 23:32:12 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:32:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Thinning Fruit on Deciduous Fruit Trees References: <200104121641.f3CGfYC09856@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD63AFB.843BE576@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to the chapter in the Master Gardener manual, which you can view on-line, concerning Fruit Trees in the Home Yard. There is a section that addresses the how's and why's of thinning the fruit in detail. You can view it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener ariesterer@securityhardware.net wrote: > In Wednesdays Arizona Republic Garden section, it is mentioned to thin deciduous fruit, leaving 6 inches between the fruit. I do not understand what they mean, please explain further. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 12 23:42:10 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:42:10 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy moss Message-ID: I'm not familiar with this plant, but I searched the web and here is some information: "Azolla caroliniana [fairy moss]is a small floating fern housing blue-green algae in its leaves. This algae is capable of absorbing nitrogen from the air, which can then be used by the plant. Water resistant. A. caroliniana now occurs all over the tropics, where it has become a menace because it covers lakes and deprives the original aquatic plants of light. Used as nitrogen fertiliser in rice paddies, and some varieties used as animal feed. Several related varieties on the market, with similar appearance. A decorative plant for open aquariums." I think many of the pond plants can become a threat if they are allowed to escape into waterways and compete with native species. But I don't know if fairy moss is considered a threat in Arizona. Search the web for "Azolla caroliniana" for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Pat >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy moss >Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 10:02:57 -0700 > >Hi all, >I have an offer of some fairy moss for my pond but I have no idea what it >is or if it could be considered a pest on this area like water hyacinth is >in Florida. Does anyone know what it is, if it would grow here and if it >would be suitable for this area (metro Phoenix)? I don't want to introduce >anything that could be harmful to our lovely desert environment. I love it >here but I will be singing a slightly different tune come July/Aug. Thanks >for any help anyone can give me. > >Pat > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 12 23:52:55 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:52:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Sweet Potatoes References: <200104031815.f33IFld15263@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD63FD7.D9D7EA2D@qwest.net> There is an excellent book by George Brookbank called Desert Gardening, Fruits and Vegetables. You may be able to find a copy at your local library branch, but it is well worth purchasing and can be found at bookstores as well as some of the nurseries in the valley. The book states that sweet potatoes are a warm-weather plant. You may find rooted cuttings in the nurseries and even in seed catalogs at planting time, which is May. He states that, then again, you may not. The best kinds recommended for the desert are Jewel, Centennial and Puerto Rico. I'd really recommend getting a copy of the book because it goes into detail about some of the ways to grow the potatoes, including using old car tires, about four or five, but making sure they are the same size. Lay one of them on the ground and mark around it using a stick, then dig the ground in the marked area and add steer manure and ammonium phosphate. The book states you then put the tire back over the soil and place a few rooted sweet potatoes on top of the soil, put sawdust over them, leaving some green shoots to enjoy the sunshine. As the shoots lengthen, add a little sawdust from time to time and keep it moist. Add a tablespoon of balanced houseplant food to each gallon of water. Sawdust has no fertilizer value. As you add more sawdust you will need to add another tire and another until you have a tire tower. There is a photo in the book. He states that in early spring the tire's black color will absorb the sun's heat and stimulate early growth. Sweet potatoes like the heat. He says if all goes well, the tower will be full of potatoes at the end of the summer. Sweet potatoes are harvested in late fall after the first frost kills the vines. Again, the chapter on sweet potatoes has a lot of information and it is worth borrowing from the library or picking up a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu wrote: > How do I plant sweet potatoes? I have serious clay soil. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 12 23:56:52 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 16:56:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus References: <200104042230.f34MUed02450@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD640C4.E9D0F18A@qwest.net> You can view a recent response I posted about yellowing leaves on hibiscus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-April/007060.html. You can also type in on the search bar the word, "Hibiscus" and you will find many archived responses to similar questions, including information on other sites that can provide you with information on growing hibiscus Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener > I planted some hybiscus (seven) in my backyard about two-and-a-half months ago. They started out very strong and healthly but now as soon as a new leaf appears it turns yellow and falls off. > > Can you help? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 13 00:01:45 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:01:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Gourds References: <200104081552.f38Fqcd00991@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD641E9.35DB901C@qwest.net> The Southwest Gourd Society would be a great source of information for you. You can find their web page at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/gourd.htm. Frank Martin is an excellent source of information with the group. You can e-mail him at crookedsky@earthlink.net. Or phone him at the phone number listed on the web page. Sue Bass Master Gardener dabl@inficad.com wrote: > I have had little success in growing gourds in my Phoenix garden. When do I plant and what care do they need? Whould I follow the same rules for cucumbers and mellons? > Thanks, > Dean > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Apr 13 00:10:18 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 17:10:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: arid gardener archives References: <200104042230.f34MUed02450@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD643EA.F31C18B1@qwest.net> Oops! To get the search bar for the archives, you need to go to: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ Sorry about that! Sue Bass cornucopia.wine@home.com wrote: > I planted some hybiscus (seven) in my backyard about two-and-a-half months ago. They started out very strong and healthly but now as soon as a new leaf appears it turns yellow and falls off. > > Can you help? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 13 00:25:30 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 20:25:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Local rose meetings Message-ID: Suzanne, The Mesa East Valley Rose Society meets tonight at 7 PM at Mesa Community College in the Kiva Room of the Student Center. Hope you get this in time to make the meeting, we would love to have you. If you get there early enough you could view our rose garden with over 3000 roses and nearly in full bloom. We look forward to seeing you. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From ljob@qwest.net Fri Apr 13 03:47:58 2001 From: ljob@qwest.net (ljob@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 20:47:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104130347.f3D3lwC07003@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My fruit trees, grapes, strawberries & vegetables are being eaten alive. All that is remaining on the leaves is the stem & the main vein that supported the leaf, never had this before, can't find anything on the underside of the leaves. Stumped. Some of the leaves also on my avacodo tree's are like burned up dry & crumbling into the wind. What is happened this year?? Help. I try to practice organic gardening & pest control. Signed Stumped in Mesa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Apr 13 04:44:28 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 21:44:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes and shade cloth References: <000801c0c39f$d5103740$5d47b118@phnx3.az.home.com> Message-ID: <000301c0c3d4$748489a0$a854530c@j0r9501> Most tomato varieties will not set fruit after the daytime high temps approach 100 degrees - there are exceptions. So there won't be many new fertile new blossoms after that. I usually wait to use shade cloth until the daytime temps are in the mid 90s, then just leave it on. It won't affect production, but it will prevent sunscald. With all of the weeds we have this year, there is likely to be a large population of beet leaf hoppers. This insect is a vector for the Curly Top Virus disease, a common problem with tomatoes. It prefers sun and dislikes shade so I would apply the shade cloth as soon as they appear regardless of the temperature. For more information on this, see: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-hop.htm and http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Petty" > I noticed that you recommend covering tomatoes > with shade cloth. Will they get enough sun > if cloth is positioned such that they are covered > most of the day? From wolfcookie@qwest.net Fri Apr 13 06:14:30 2001 From: wolfcookie@qwest.net (wolfcookie@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2001 23:14:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104130614.f3D6EUC09256@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This is my first year at desert gardening. I started seeds indoors. My tomatoes are now 2 to 3 feet high and the plants look great but I have no blossoms. I put in a mixture of topsoil and composted manure and built it up over the desert soil about 4 inches. What do I need to add to get my plants to blossom and set fruit. From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Apr 13 15:48:30 2001 From: msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Mike Sheedy) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:48:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104131548.IAA22194@trifid.u.arizona.edu> ljob, I have the same experience with my grape this year. My plant is about 2 feet tall and all of the leaves are gone. Only the stems and petioles remain on the plant. We back up on a mountain preserve, so I thought it might be rabbits or ground squirrels. I could not find any bug droppings around the plant. I am also stumped and will be watching the list for any ideas. >My fruit trees, grapes, strawberries & >vegetables are being eaten alive. All that >is remaining on the leaves is the stem & >the main vein that supported the leaf, >never had this before, can't find anything >on the underside of the leaves. Stumped. > >Some of the leaves also on my avacodo tree's >are like burned up dry & crumbling into the >wind. > >What is happened this year?? > >Help. I try to practice organic gardening & >pest control. > >Signed Stumped in Mesa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > Mike Sheedy Research Specialist University of Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Apr 13 16:41:35 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 09:41:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question About Bone Meal Message-ID: <011801c0c43b$38986580$de52530c@j0r9501> Following is an excerpt from the Austin [TX] Organic Gardeners site at http://www.main.org/aog/ "Bonemeal NOT FOR TEXAS. Finely ground and steamed animal bones, used mainly as a phosphorus source. 11% phosphorus, 1% nitrogen, and 24% calcium. Lasts 6-12 months. Use only on acidic soils (the calcium increases alkalinity). ..." This would suggest it is not suitable for AZ either if it in fact increases alkalinity. Anyone have any information or experience with this? Olin From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Apr 13 17:35:41 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 13:35:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mealy bug vs Cochineal Message-ID: --part1_b2.14029785.280892ed_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Anna, The two bugs are not the same. Cochineal (Dactylopius confusus) is a scale insect that resembles the Mealy bug (Pseudococcus calcoelarlae). You might have an easier time finding information about these bugs by using their scientific names which eliminates the many problems of using common names. My resources were "Learning about and living with Insects of the Southwest" by Floyd Werner and Carl Olson andSimon and Schuster's Guide to Insects. I do not know if you have access to these books in your country. Hope the information is helpful. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction, AZ --part1_b2.14029785.280892ed_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Anna,

The two bugs are not the same.  Cochineal (Dactylopius confusus) is a scale
insect that resembles the Mealy bug (Pseudococcus calcoelarlae).  You might
have an easier time finding information about these bugs by using their
scientific names which eliminates the many problems of using common names.

My resources were "Learning about and living with Insects of the Southwest"  
by Floyd Werner and Carl Olson andSimon and Schuster's Guide to Insects.  I
do not know if you have access to these books in your country.

Hope the information is helpful.

JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener
Apache Junction, AZ --part1_b2.14029785.280892ed_boundary-- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Fri Apr 13 16:44:52 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 10:44:52 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question About Bone Meal References: <011801c0c43b$38986580$de52530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <3AD72D03.644AC600@earthlink.net> I've read the same thing. This is also the reason we're not supposed to put eggshells in our compost heap -- the one thing our soil doesn't need is more calcium .... Barbara olin wrote: > Following is an excerpt from the Austin [TX] Organic Gardeners site at > http://www.main.org/aog/ > > "Bonemeal > NOT FOR TEXAS. Finely ground and steamed animal bones, used mainly as a > phosphorus source. 11% phosphorus, 1% nitrogen, and 24% calcium. Lasts 6-12 > months. Use only on acidic soils (the calcium increases alkalinity). ..." > > This would suggest it is not suitable for AZ either if it in fact increases > alkalinity. Anyone have any information or experience with this? > > Olin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bjbigham@earthlink.net Fri Apr 13 16:50:26 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 10:50:26 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Sweet Potatoes References: <200104031815.f33IFld15263@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AD63FD7.D9D7EA2D@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AD72E51.FB7DF437@earthlink.net> >>> The book states you then put the tire back over the soil and place a few rooted sweet potatoes on top of the soil Since most of us don't have a few extra spare tires lying around, I've found another good method is to buy the black plastic composter (it's about a 5' roll of heavy black plastic with holes in it for aeration) that can be found at some of the nurseries around the valley. Fill it up as the plants grow. It's great because, when you're not growing potatoes, you can roll the plastic up and store it (a lot smaller than spare tires!). I've grown great potatoes this way here in the valley..... If anyone needs to see a picture of the composter thingy to figure out what I'm talking about, let me know. Barbara Sue Bass wrote: > There is an excellent book by George Brookbank called Desert Gardening, > Fruits and Vegetables. > You may be able to find a copy at your local library branch, but it is > well worth purchasing and can be found at bookstores as well as some of > the nurseries in the valley. > > The book states that sweet potatoes are a warm-weather plant. You may > find rooted cuttings in the nurseries and even in seed catalogs at > planting time, which is May. He states that, then again, you may not. > The best kinds recommended for the desert are Jewel, Centennial and > Puerto Rico. I'd really recommend getting a copy of the book because it > goes into detail about some of the ways to grow the potatoes, including > using old car tires, about four or five, but making sure they are the > same size. Lay one of them on the ground and mark around it using a > stick, then dig the ground in the marked area and add steer manure and > ammonium phosphate. The book states you then put the tire back over the > soil and place a few rooted sweet potatoes on top of the soil, put > sawdust over them, leaving some green shoots to enjoy the sunshine. As > the shoots lengthen, add a little sawdust from time to time and keep it > moist. Add a tablespoon of balanced houseplant food to each gallon of > water. Sawdust has no fertilizer value. As you add more sawdust you > will need to add another tire and another until you have a tire tower. > There is a photo in the book. He states that in early spring the tire's > black color will absorb the sun's heat and stimulate early growth. > Sweet potatoes like the heat. He says if all goes well, the tower will > be full of potatoes at the end of the summer. Sweet potatoes are > harvested in late fall after the first frost kills the vines. > > Again, the chapter on sweet potatoes has a lot of information and it is > worth borrowing from the library or picking up a copy. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu wrote: > > > How do I plant sweet potatoes? I have serious clay soil. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From grains@iopener.net Fri Apr 13 22:32:00 2001 From: grains@iopener.net (grains@iopener.net) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 15:32:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104132232.f3DMVxC05119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we are moving to the Gilbert area-what kinds of garden/flower pests will we have and what kinds of backyard birds? Is some form of gardening done year round ? thanks. send us anything that might help. Gary and Pat Rains, 11692 W Brandt Ave. Littleton, colo. 80127 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 13 23:03:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:03:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water Message-ID: It sounds to me as if you have an impossible task to try to water plants whose summer watering requirements vary from watering every day for the potted plants to watering every week to 10 days for the trees with a time clock that only has one program . You could of course put the perenials and annuals on the the time clock and water the others by hand. One solution would be to replace the time clock with one that has four programs and to be sure that plants with different watering requiurements are on separate circuits. Check out this website on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 13 23:03:50 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:03:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bleeding Mesquite Tree Message-ID: <57.1477b095.2808dfd6@aol.com> Angela, It is common for mesquite trees to bleed from pruning cuts and cracks in the trunk and not something to be concerned about. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From envconnections@yahoo.com Sat Apr 14 00:38:01 2001 From: envconnections@yahoo.com (linda levitt) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 17:38:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] zuni beds Message-ID: <20010414003801.24952.qmail@web1901.mail.yahoo.com> we are looking for some resources for designing a "native american" style garden using zuni beds. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From umiller@azdps.com Sat Apr 14 02:48:46 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 19:48:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I didn't get the question (am having e-mail problems) so I'm guessing at it. Anyway, if the pots are on the patio, you can buy a special patio irrigation system that hooks up to the water spigot on the patio and has irrigation lines to each pot. A timer can be attached to this system. So it's like a mini-irrigation system all by itself. If you attach one of those t-connector kind of things that allow you to use two hoses on one spigot, you can use one for the irrigation system and the other for the usual hose needs. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com Sent: Friday, April 13, 2001 4:04 PM To: Pabaferd@juno.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] How much water It sounds to me as if you have an impossible task to try to water plants whose summer watering requirements vary from watering every day for the potted plants to watering every week to 10 days for the trees with a time clock that only has one program . You could of course put the perenials and annuals on the the time clock and water the others by hand. One solution would be to replace the time clock with one that has four programs and to be sure that plants with different watering requiurements are on separate circuits. Check out this website on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tiffiani.r.williams@mail.sprint.com Sat Apr 14 11:35:50 2001 From: tiffiani.r.williams@mail.sprint.com (tiffiani.r.williams@mail.sprint.com) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:35:50 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbit hating plants Message-ID: --openmail-part-2784f2e0-00000001 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline ;Creation-Date="Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:35:50 -0400" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Rabbits do not like clinatro. If you grow clinatro from seed you will have an ample amount and it is easy to grow. Either plant it as a border around your garden, or tear off the stems and strew around the plants. The rabbits will not come back Tiffiani Renee Williams-Alston Senior Customer Service Representative Service Management Center Mailstop GAATLD0501 (404) 649-4684 --openmail-part-2784f2e0-00000001-- From fwachter@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 15:19:36 2001 From: fwachter@qwest.net (fwachter@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 08:19:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104141519.f3EFJaC14894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two saguaro cactuses. They appear to have a problem. The one in particular has a black 'cave' where it looks like the cactus is rotting. Is there anything we can do to halt the damage? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:40:36 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:40:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: sick tomatoes] Message-ID: <3AD87D84.1559060B@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------FD6DC342C5555D6AC6F985E3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I thought all the great minds on the server could try to help out Mike. Linda --------------FD6DC342C5555D6AC6F985E3 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 3234 invoked by uid 0); 13 Apr 2001 15:12:09 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail2.uswest.net) (204.147.80.18) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 13 Apr 2001 15:12:09 -0000 Received: (qmail 79224 invoked by uid 0); 13 Apr 2001 15:12:06 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO post2.inre.asu.edu) (129.219.110.73) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 13 Apr 2001 15:12:06 -0000 Received: from conversion.post2.inre.asu.edu by asu.edu (PMDF V6.0-24 #47347) id <0GBQ00M01KW4E4@asu.edu> for lindaguy@qwest.net; Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:12:04 -0700 (MST) Received: from aztec2.asu.edu (aztec2.asu.edu [198.60.132.11]) by asu.edu (PMDF V6.0-24 #47347) with ESMTP id <0GBQ00LBNKW44I@asu.edu> for lindaguy@qwest.net; Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:12:04 -0700 (MST) Received: (from mother@localhost) by aztec2.asu.edu (8.9.1/8.9.1) id IAA24894; Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:12:04 -0700 (MST) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 08:12:04 -0700 (MST) Message-id: <200104131512.IAA24894@aztec2.asu.edu> From: "MIKE SHEETS" To: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: sick tomatoes Reply-to: mother@aztec.asu.edu X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I garden with the Sun City Ag Club. I had an infestation of little black critters that had the wedge shaped body form of a leaf hopper. At the same time (that I noticed) there were some yellow-green aphids. That was about 10 days ago. I began washing the plants with vigorous daily sprays of water. The youngest plants began to succumb first, leaves yellowing, shrivelling, dropping off. Stem tips looked brown and pinched. All my tomato plants now seem infected. A general sort of graying of the leaves, new leaves have yellowish color, purpling of some plant parts like leaf undersides and some stems. Leaves are drooping, mostly, most not deforming with characteristic curl of Curly Top. I've seen "Curly Top" many times before. This plague has a very different timing and appearance. I usually see a green leaf hopper almost a 1/4 inch long that precipitates the usual Curly Top onset much later, after tomatoes are on. Doesn't look like I'll get any this year. Yesterday, on the way out of the gardens, I looked carefully at other plots and tomatoes. Over half appear to be affected same as mine. There's going to be a lot of unhappy gardners out here this year. My pepper plants don't look so good either. Any thoughts, notions, or potions? Thankyou, Mike Sheets, member Sun City Ag Club 623-972-8574 Answer machine always on, I am not. -- Worship the gods, listen to their advice, but don't lend them money. --------------FD6DC342C5555D6AC6F985E3-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:43:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:43:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zuni beds References: <20010414003801.24952.qmail@web1901.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3AD87E4C.56CD2F2D@qwest.net> Don't know that either of these can specifically help you but they certainly will have a bigger list of resources. Desert Botanical Gardens has a telephone hotline M-F 10 to 11:30 am [480-941-1225]. One of the trails features the gardening techniques of native americans. Also Native Seed Search in Tucson http://www.nativeseeds.org/ which is a nonprofit that focuses on preserving native crops. Linda Guy, MG linda levitt wrote: > we are looking for some resources for designing a > "native american" style garden using zuni beds. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:45:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:45:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit hating plants References: Message-ID: <3AD87EB7.EB782BA4@qwest.net> My domestic dutch rabbit ADORES cilantro and finds its flavor superior to any of the parsleys as well as carrots. What a gourmand! Linda Guy, MG tiffiani.r.williams@mail.sprint.com wrote: > Rabbits do not like clinatro. If you grow clinatro from seed you will > have an ample amount and it is easy to grow. Either plant it as a > border around your garden, or tear off the stems and strew around the > plants. The rabbits will not come back > > Tiffiani Renee Williams-Alston > Senior Customer Service Representative > Service Management Center > Mailstop GAATLD0501 > (404) 649-4684 > From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:47:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:47:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro References: <200104141519.f3EFJaC14894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD87F22.98E998F@qwest.net> Act fast and your saguaro should recover nicely. This is a problem when we have alot of rainy weather. Good luck! http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Linda Guy, MG fwachter@qwest.net wrote: > I have two saguaro cactuses. > They appear to have a problem. The > one in particular has a black 'cave' > where it looks like the cactus > is rotting. Is there anything we can > do to halt the damage? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From reeva5@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 15:51:18 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:51:18 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rose petels look burned Message-ID: <002901c0c4fa$bee7bc20$d06bb5d1@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C0C4C8.73CEA640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankWhen my roses open the petals look as if they were burned on the outside edges of the petals. Do you know what this is caused from? Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C0C4C8.73CEA640 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <002501c0c4fa$be691640$d06bb5d1@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01C0C4C8.73CEA640-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:55:15 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 09:55:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Backyard Pests References: <200104132232.f3DMVxC05119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD880F2.2BC33149@qwest.net> A great way to track what potentially causes damage in your yard, month by month, is to check out the timely tips section of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Within the Index, http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/index.htm you can find some specific issues, too, and one that might be of interest is bird control vis a vis plants. Linda Guy, MG grains@iopener.net wrote: > we are moving to the Gilbert area-what kinds of garden/flower pests will we have and what kinds of backyard birds? Is some form of gardening done year round ? thanks. send us anything that might help. Gary and Pat Rains, 11692 W Brandt Ave. Littleton, colo. 80127 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 17:01:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:01:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sanseveria References: <200104051605.f35G5Nd25377@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD88261.441119E6@qwest.net> I don't have a good answer from you besides to let you know that mine have sometimes shared your problem. I culled them from the excess of a neighbor's outdoors bed and also brought them inside. I don't know if they prefer to tough it outdoors or what, but I do know that they got alot less sunshine in my home than in their original south-facing home. When the occassional leaf drooped and I couldn't arrange it to stay erect with the help of other more stalwart stalks, "off with their heads". I have been known to be ruthless from time to time! Linda Guy, MG DeVerasLT@aol.com wrote: > My sanseveria plants ("mother-in-law's tongue) are doing fine indoors, but they do not stay straight up. Why are they leaning oer? Is there anything I can do to strengthen the blades? > > Thanks! > > L. Hogan > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From reeva5@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 16:01:02 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:01:02 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Rose petals look burned Message-ID: <005101c0c4fc$1b5609c0$d06bb5d1@speedchoice.com> When the petals on my roses open the edges of the petals look burned. Does any one know what may be causing this?Thanks. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 14 17:03:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 10:03:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Problem with potato plants References: <000701c0becf$013da9e0$f6c70e3f@elnnormapz> Message-ID: <3AD882EC.94081BD2@qwest.net> --------------84946D3F80A06938FAD56119 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not have a response for you, but I can suggest that you take a sample plant and explanation of the problem to the county Extension Office, where a weekly diagnostic committee meets and will telephone you with the results. Another possibility for you is to do the same thing at one of our satellite offices and some of the volunteers may be able to speak to your issue. The addresses for all of these was on the same webpage where you placed your question originally. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy, MG norma rebenar wrote: > I have 16 potato plants coming up in my vegetable garden. I planted > the chunks of seed potatoes in a raised bed on January 21. At first, > the surface of the bed was level; however, two weeks ago we mounded > dirt up around the plants, leaving a furrow in which we have laid a > soaker hose hooked to a drip system. The plants are getting three > hours of drip irrigation every 7-10 days.We have noticed that > approximately six of the plants look stunted, and their leaves are > curled. Can you help me to diagnose the problem so that I can try to > control it before it takes over all of the potato plants? I can be > reached by e-mail at: normapz@earthlink.net or by phone at > 480-488-3070. Thank you so much. --------------84946D3F80A06938FAD56119 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit  I do not have a response for you, but I can suggest that you take a sample plant and explanation of the problem to the county Extension Office, where a weekly diagnostic committee meets and will telephone you with the results. Another possibility for you is to do the same thing at one of our satellite offices and some of the volunteers may be able to speak to your issue. The addresses for all of these was on the same webpage where you placed your question originally.     http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm

Linda Guy, MG
 

norma rebenar wrote:

 I have 16 potato plants coming up in my vegetable garden.  I planted the chunks of seed potatoes in a raised bed on January 21.  At first, the surface of the bed was level; however, two weeks ago we mounded dirt up around the plants, leaving a furrow in which we have laid a soaker hose hooked to a drip system.  The plants are getting three hours of drip irrigation every 7-10 days.We have noticed that approximately six of the plants look stunted, and their leaves are curled.  Can you help me to diagnose the problem so that I can try to control it before it takes over all of the potato plants? I can be reached by e-mail at:  normapz@earthlink.net or by phone at 480-488-3070.     Thank you so much.
--------------84946D3F80A06938FAD56119-- From hokon1@home.com Sat Apr 14 21:03:49 2001 From: hokon1@home.com (hokon1@home.com) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 14:03:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104142103.f3EL3nC02017@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is the proper watering for a navel orange tree that is just plant? why do my hibiscus have some yellow leaveson some of the branchs ? what is the proper watering for roses in this hot weather ? thank you From tomahawk@inficad.com Sun Apr 15 02:50:04 2001 From: tomahawk@inficad.com (tomahawk@inficad.com) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 19:50:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104150250.f3F2o4C18444@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Should I paint the trunks of all my citrus trees white to keep them from sunburn ? Mine are fairly young with trunks approx. 1- 1 1/2 " in diameter ? I did do this with other older trees many years ago, never could tell if it helped from burning or not. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 15 15:59:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 11:59:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose petals look burned Message-ID: <3a.13a7a0d4.280b1f5a@aol.com> You have a classic case of damage from thrips. The thrips are very bad this year, my roses are just as you describe. I've been able to control them in the past by spraying the buds at an early stage with an insecticide such as orthene or malethion twice a week. This year I tried a relatively new natural product called Erase, a combination insecticide and fungicide made from the hohoba plant. It appears to be one of the few products that is an eradicator of powdery mildew once it gets a start and does a great job of eliminating the aphids but it hasn't worked for thrips. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From sh_schokravi@hotmail.com Sun Apr 15 16:51:06 2001 From: sh_schokravi@hotmail.com (Shayan Shokravi) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:21:06 +0430 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: HI I am SHAYAN SHOKRAVI . I am from IRAN , an arid zone in the south west asia . I was so apprecieted when find your useful site which I can propound my question in agriculture and gardenning .excuse me , I haven't skills in English . Consider this page as my submit confirmation. Best wishes SHAYAN _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From s2@AuroraNow.org Sun Apr 15 18:03:12 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 11:03:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: roses & hibiscus References: <200104142103.f3EL3nC02017@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AD9E260.3F834149@AuroraNow.org> Hi, I'm sure one of the Master Gardeners will post the web page for you about citrus care, I can't help there. Your hibiscus can be yellowing for a few reasons. Inadequate water (I'm watering my potted hibiscus daily right now), poor drainage (make sure your soil has excellent drainage. Most clay/ceramic pots only have one drainage hole which seems inadequate for hibiscus). It could just be still recovering from some winter frosts, or exposed to too much sun or wind. Try putting it out of the wind and give it a little less sun (a few hours a day of direct sun under a covered porch seems to be their favorite situation) and give it some palm fertilizer. If you just planted/repotted, it could just be a bit of stress from that as well. They bounce back fine after stress, so don't worry too much. By the way, I've found that a mix of 1/2 potting soil, 1/2 cactus mix (very fast drainage) seems to work great for potted hibiscus I'm watering my roses about every 2-3 days right now (on an eastern wall protected from hot afternoon sun) and they're doing magnificently this year. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Sun Apr 15 18:06:53 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 11:06:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose petals look burned References: <3a.13a7a0d4.280b1f5a@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AD9E33D.EBA5D0B1@AuroraNow.org> Rod & gang, My just-opening bud tips are doing the same thing, but once the blossoms are open, they seem fine (better than fine actually--I have jurassic almost 6" blossoms that you can smell 3 feet away!). Should I still spray the insecticide to prevent the bud problem from turning into a blossom problem? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From normapz@earthlink.net Sun Apr 15 22:26:41 2001 From: normapz@earthlink.net (normapz@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 15:26:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104152226.f3FMQfC21295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My potato plants have been up at least a month. At first, they appeared very healthy. Now some of them have become stunted, and all of them have small black spots on the leaves. The leaves on some of the plants are curled. I need help diagnosing and treating this problem. Thank you. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon Apr 16 00:10:24 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 17:10:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade peppers so soon? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010415170705.00df5ea0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> I've planted some of my green peppers under the shade of a tree and others in direct sun. (It's been high of 81F.) I am surprised to see the ones in full sun wilting considerably even when watered every day. The ones under the tree are doing great. I know peppers need shade when it gets late June, but this soon? jk Tucson Az From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 16 01:24:15 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 21:24:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, sunburn protection Message-ID: If the trunks of your citrus trees are protected from the sun by foliage then it is not necessary to paint them white. Be sure that the west side is protected for the afternoon sun is the hottest. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Mon Apr 16 03:25:05 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 20:25:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104160325.f3G3P5C05188@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My 2.5 year old citurs tree has been putting out some yellowish growth recently. Today I applied the reccomended amount of Iron/Zinc Sequestrine 138 to the basin the the citrus and watered it heavly. It said on the bottle that multiple aplications may be warrented. Is one application generally enough to correct such yellowing and if so how long until I see results? The tree has recently been watered once every two weeks for 6 hours with 10 two gallon an hour drippers. Thanks-Max(Tucson-zone 12) From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 16 03:56:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2001 23:56:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus watering Message-ID: Your problem appears to be vastly over watering. I'm estimating that you have a 2 1/2 year old tree with a canapy diameter of approx 6 feet which would require 45 gallons of water every two weeks in the hottest part of the summer. Right now half of that should be ample. When you correct the watering the tree should be on the way back to good health. Check oout this website on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From labs5@home.com Mon Apr 16 14:11:53 2001 From: labs5@home.com (labs5@home.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 07:11:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104161411.f3GEBrI02380@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Something's eating the tips of my rosebuds before they open. On others, the edges of the petals are brown after they do open. Any ideas? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 16 14:54:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 10:54:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses with thrips damage Message-ID: You have a classic case of damage from thrips.. The thrips are very bad this year, my roses are just as you describe. I've been able to control them in the past by spraying the buds at an early stage with an insecticide such as orthene or malethion twice a week. This year I tried a relatively new natural product called Erase, a combination insecticide and fungicide made from the jojoba plant. It appears to be one of the few products that is an eradicator of powdery mildew once it gets a start and does a great job of eliminating the aphids but it hasn't worked for thrips. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 16 15:31:10 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 08:31:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104161411.f3GEBrI02380@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADB103E.85D4804D@AuroraNow.org> One of our Master Gardeners has been discussing this problem on the list lately. He advises: > Your problem is caused by thrips. Be sure to spray the buds with insecticide > soon after they have formed and every 3 to 4 days afterwards. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Mon Apr 16 15:54:11 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 09:54:11 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104132232.f3DMVxC05119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADB15A3.BA234798@earthlink.net> Hi! Welcome (soon) to Gilbert. We live in East Mesa, which is a close neighbor of Gilbert. We have a tremendous variety of birds out here. In my yard, we get finches, doves (white wing and rock), quail, mockingbirds, grackles, flickers, tons of hummingbirds, and many others I can't identify. As for "pests," we get the normal array such as aphids, field crickets, and cutworms but nothing too drastic (at least in my yard, thank goodness, although we've recently had a neighborhood-wide problem with armenian roaches ... yuck!). We had a bad time with whiteflies a few years ago but that has lessened greatly. We have what is termed a year round growing season, but that's not really accurate. It's far too hot for most people to garden in the summer, although some heat-loving plants are grown even in the worst of it. The rest of the garden holds on for dear life and is grateful to survive. Planting desert-adapted plants is the best idea -- otherwise, you're out there in 110-degree weather trying to water constantly. If you don't already subscribe to Sunset magazine, that would be my best advice. It has a section on gardening which includes info specific to this zone (as well as articles on travel). I hope you enjoy your new garden. If there's any other specific information I can provide, let me know. I'm just a regular gardener out here -- not a "master gardener" or an extension volunteer or anything, but I've been out here for 30+ years, so I have a bit of experience. Barbara grains@iopener.net wrote: > we are moving to the Gilbert area-what kinds of garden/flower pests will we have and what kinds of backyard birds? Is some form of gardening done year round ? thanks. send us anything that might help. Gary and Pat Rains, 11692 W Brandt Ave. Littleton, colo. 80127 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener grains@iopener.net wrote: > we are moving to the Gilbert area-what kinds of garden/flower pests will we have and what kinds of backyard birds? Is some form of gardening done year round ? thanks. send us anything that might help. Gary and Pat Rains, 11692 W Brandt Ave. Littleton, colo. 80127 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From EdSherMiller@email.msn.com Mon Apr 16 19:08:47 2001 From: EdSherMiller@email.msn.com (EdSherMiller) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 12:08:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stake Bouganvilla or not? Message-ID: <000801c0c6a8$ab204cc0$b2e90f3f@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0C66D.FD828C20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Our bougainvillea was planted in January with the stakes. The plants = were tied to the stakes. I have cut the twine that was holding the = plants to the stakes but my husband thinks they should remain tied to = the stakes. I have always thought that the bougainvillea should be = allowed to spread or it should be trained to a trellis. I think the = twine inhibits the growth of the plants. Who is correct and what is the = correct method to use in growing bougainvillea here in Tucson? Thank you for your help Sherry Miller (EdSherMiller@msn.com) ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0C66D.FD828C20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Our bougainvillea was planted in January with the stakes.  The = plants=20 were tied to the stakes.  I have cut the twine that was holding the = plants=20 to the stakes but my husband thinks they should remain tied to the = stakes. =20 I have always thought that the bougainvillea should be allowed to spread = or it=20 should be trained to a trellis.  I think the twine inhibits the = growth of=20 the plants.  Who is correct and what is the correct method to use = in=20 growing bougainvillea here in Tucson?
 
Thank you for your help
 
Sherry Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C0C66D.FD828C20-- From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Apr 16 19:35:09 2001 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 12:35:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104161935.f3GJZ9I07157@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I hope this doesn't sound like a strange question - but - it has been suggested to us that we remove oleander bushes on the perimeter of the property and replace them with privet hedges. I associate privet hedges with England's climate and that of the Northeast - wet and cool - so what's the possibility of privet hedges surviving in the dry and the heat of Phoenix's low desert? If they can survive in this climate, will they be "high maintenance"? Your comments and advice will be much appreciated..Thanks....Dick From Mweek01@aol.com Mon Apr 16 20:51:19 2001 From: Mweek01@aol.com (Mweek01@aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 13:51:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104162051.f3GKpJI23727@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are having a problem with our tomato plants. They were beautiful and full of blossoms and now are turning yellow and dying even though the plants around them are doing fine. They are in part shade in the afternoon. Thank you. From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 16 22:49:02 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 15:49:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Blue Potato Bush (Lycianthes rantonnei) References: <000a01c0c6bc$8a172da0$b20fb5cd@deepwood> Message-ID: <3ADB76DE.4EF3AFA4@qwest.net> --------------9D574A5F26DB16FEE889DC36 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark and Wanda: Please see the following link: http://www.geocities.com/~jimclatfelter/lycianth.html My copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book also states that this plant tolerates aridity but best grown with water. It is evergreen in mild winters; in severe cold, leaves drop and branch tips may die back. The web site mentioned about states that it is hardy to 20 degrees in zones 9 and 10 only. Hope this helps! Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ Mark and Wanda wrote: > Hello,We are a couple of flower gardeners from the Midwest looking for > information on the Blue Potato Bush. We came across a posting with > your address so we thought we would ask.Do you know how cold a > temperature the bush can handle?We suspect that it is not a cold hardy > plant, but they are being sold in our area conveniently without the > proper information. They are beautiful, and we would love to have one, > but want to know what we are getting into.Please help us if you > can,Mark and Wanda Zone 6deepwood@positech.net --------------9D574A5F26DB16FEE889DC36 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mark and Wanda:
Please see the following link: http://www.geocities.com/~jimclatfelter/lycianth.html
My copy of the Sunset Western Garden Book also states that this plant tolerates aridity but best grown with water.  It is evergreen in mild winters; in severe cold, leaves drop and branch tips may die back.  The web site mentioned about states that it is hardy to 20 degrees in zones 9 and 10 only.

Hope this helps!
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Gilbert, AZ

Mark and Wanda wrote:

Hello,We are a couple of flower gardeners from the Midwest looking for information on the Blue Potato Bush. We came across a posting with your address so we thought we would ask.Do you know how cold a temperature the bush can handle?We suspect that it is not a cold hardy plant, but they are being sold in our area conveniently without the proper information. They are beautiful, and we would love to have one, but want to know what we are getting into.Please help us if you can,Mark and Wanda  Zone 6deepwood@positech.net 
--------------9D574A5F26DB16FEE889DC36-- From mmclean@aztrib.com Mon Apr 16 23:33:09 2001 From: mmclean@aztrib.com (mmclean@aztrib.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 16:33:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104162333.f3GNX9I28218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I buy eucalyptus bark mulch and is it really good at keeping bugs (termites) away? From umiller@azdps.com Tue Apr 17 00:23:56 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:23:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stake Bouganvilla or not? In-Reply-To: <000801c0c6a8$ab204cc0$b2e90f3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0C69A.04996980 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have different kinds of bougainvilleas, so maybe I can answer this. Since your plant came staked, it is probably the kind normally used for use on walls or trellises - like Mary Palmer's Enchantment which grows 20-30 feet long. If this is how you're going to use it, then you can keep the stake until it gets established against whatever you're going to use it on. Loosening the ties after a while helps to prevent the ties from strangling the stem. However, if you want to train this long kind to be a bush, you will want to stake it to the ground as is referenced at the plantadviser site http://www.plantadviser.com/plants/bougspec.shtml. If it's a bush kind, though, like Rosenka, which grows 2-3 feet tall and 3 feet wide, it doesn't need to be staked because it will grow into a bush normally. As far as care goes, they don't need much. They need watering when young but when mature drip lines can be removed. In fact, the less water, the more flowers (bracts), it seems. Keep in mind, though, that they are frost-tender so protect it from frost, especially whle it's still young. (But even when some branches are damaged by frost, those branches can be cut off after threat of frost is gone.) Don't overfertilize. Too much food also means less flowers. I'm not sure that I answered the question. If not, let me know, and I'll muddle through some more. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of EdSherMiller Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 12:09 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stake Bouganvilla or not? Our bougainvillea was planted in January with the stakes. The plants were tied to the stakes. I have cut the twine that was holding the plants to the stakes but my husband thinks they should remain tied to the stakes. I have always thought that the bougainvillea should be allowed to spread or it should be trained to a trellis. I think the twine inhibits the growth of the plants. Who is correct and what is the correct method to use in growing bougainvillea here in Tucson? Thank you for your help Sherry Miller (EdSherMiller@msn.com) ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0C69A.04996980 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I = have different=20 kinds of bougainvilleas, so maybe I can answer this.
 
Since your plant=20 came staked, it is probably the kind normally used for use on walls or = trellises=20 - like Mary Palmer's Enchantment which grows 20-30 feet long.  If = this is=20 how you're going to use it, then you can keep the stake until it gets=20 established against whatever you're going to use it on.  Loosening = the ties=20 after a while helps to prevent the ties from strangling the=20 stem.
 
However, if=20 you want to train this long kind to be a bush, you will = want to=20 stake it to the ground as is referenced at the plantadviser site http://www.pla= ntadviser.com/plants/bougspec.shtml. =20
 
If = it's a bush=20 kind, though, like Rosenka, which grows 2-3 feet tall and 3 feet wide, = it=20 doesn't need to be staked because it will grow into a bush=20 normally.
 
As = far as care=20 goes, they don't need much.  They need watering when young but when = mature=20 drip lines can be removed.  In fact, the less water, the more = flowers=20 (bracts), it seems.  Keep in mind, though, that they are = frost-tender so=20 protect it from frost, especially whle it's still young.  (But = even=20 when some branches are damaged by frost, those branches can be cut off = after=20 threat of frost is gone.)  Don't overfertilize.  Too much food = also=20 means less flowers.
 
I'm = not sure that=20 I answered the question.  If not, let me know, and I'll muddle=20 through some more.
 
Ursula=20 Miller
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of=20 EdSherMiller
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2001 12:09 = PM
To:=20 Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stake=20 Bouganvilla or not?

Our bougainvillea was planted in January with the stakes.  = The=20 plants were tied to the stakes.  I have cut the twine that was = holding=20 the plants to the stakes but my husband thinks they should remain tied = to the=20 stakes.  I have always thought that the bougainvillea should be = allowed=20 to spread or it should be trained to a trellis.  I think the = twine=20 inhibits the growth of the plants.  Who is correct and what is = the=20 correct method to use in growing bougainvillea here in Tucson?
 
Thank you for your help
 
Sherry Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0C69A.04996980-- From michntv@email.msn.com Tue Apr 17 15:49:23 2001 From: michntv@email.msn.com (michntv@email.msn.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:49:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104171549.f3HFnNI05729@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My navel orange tree is about 20 years old. It has yielded beautiful sweet oranges until about 2 years ago. It is dieing, one limb at a time. Do these trees have a particular life span or is something wrong with my tree? From eorr@cwcapital.com Tue Apr 17 18:58:56 2001 From: eorr@cwcapital.com (eorr@cwcapital.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 11:58:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104171858.f3HIwbI22577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the name of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant? Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name. Thanks, E. From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 17 19:48:20 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 12:48:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] native tea--stimulant? References: <200104171858.f3HIwbI22577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADC9E04.6FF48D8A@AuroraNow.org> E, I forwarded your question to a friend who is an expert on the medicinal and culinary uses of our Sonoran desert natives. I know verbena gooddingii (desert verbena) has the opposite affect (mild to moderate sedative) as a tea, and that creosote tea tastes nasty as all get out but really does the trick for severe congestion (creosote salve is the best thing we've found for bug bites, too). -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Tue Apr 17 18:23:01 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 12:23:01 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104171858.f3HIwbI22577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADC8A04.79D31756@earthlink.net> I don't know about the "Cowboy" part, but it's known as "Mormon Tea" Barbara eorr@cwcapital.com wrote: > Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the name of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant? > Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name. > Thanks, > E. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Apr 17 20:14:50 2001 From: kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Kathleen Peterson) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 13:14:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200104171858.f3HIwbI22577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010417121720.00b16660@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_18858069==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The common name for Ephedra virdis is Mormon Tea. It is also called Joint Fur. At 11:58 AM 04/17/2001 -0700, eorr@cwcapital.com wrote: >Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the name >of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant? >Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name. >Thanks, >E. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --=====================_18858069==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The common name for Ephedra virdis is Mormon Tea.  It is also called Joint Fur.


At 11:58 AM 04/17/2001 -0700, eorr@cwcapital.com wrote:
Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the name of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant?
Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name.
Thanks,
E.

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--=====================_18858069==_.ALT-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 17 21:12:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:12:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Stake Bouganvilla or not? Message-ID: <59.9c2a047.280e0bb1@aol.com> Sherry, Bougainvillea is a vine and as such should be tied to a trellis or allowed to spread out if you have room. I don't believe that the ties will affect the growth in any way. I've been tying bougainvillea to a treelike for over 20 years and it is quite prolific. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Apr 17 21:45:21 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 14:45:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mormon tea In-Reply-To: <3ADC8A04.79D31756@earthlink.net> References: <200104171858.f3HIwbI22577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010417144142.00dfc620@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 12:23 PM 4/17/01 -0600, Barbara Bigham wrote:
I don't know about the "Cowboy" part, but it's known as "Mormon Tea"

Mormon tea is indeed a stimulant.  It is an ephedra, related to the better known chinese variety that the FDA is concerned with.  It is not as strong as that variety.  But, yes, too much mormon tea will keep you awake and raise your blood pressure.  It is highly effective for allergies and colds.  I make my own tinctures by soaking the stems/leaves in vodka.

jk
From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 17 22:12:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:12:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ephedra sp. (mormon tea) Message-ID: hmm... might be mormon tea; several different species of Ephedra are given this common name. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: eorr@cwcapital.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 11:58:56 -0700 (MST) > >Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the name >of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant? >Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name. >Thanks, >E. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 17 22:24:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 18:24:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree dying Message-ID: We will need more info than you have given us to make a diagnosis. Naval oranges live much longer than 20 years. I suggest that you bring a small branch with a few leaves on it to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. The diagnostic clinic meets on Friday from7:30 to 9:00 AM, you do not have to be there but the fresher the sample the better chance of getting a diagnosis. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From j_harrell@NetZero.net Wed Apr 18 00:27:37 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:27:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black plastic tubs Message-ID: <3ADCDF79.CC5ADED0@NetZero.net> I have four heavy black "plastic" tubs which appear to be acetic acid barrels cut in half, 1/4" thick, about 18" high and 2 ft across. I've tried to find uses for them but am ready to get rid of them. Do any gardeners out there have use for them? Sincerely, Jackie Harrell NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net From Gjgarvey@aol.com Wed Apr 18 00:42:24 2001 From: Gjgarvey@aol.com (Gjgarvey@aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:42:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104180042.f3I0gOI01756@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just received a beautiful orchid plant. Can you tell me what the long root things are that are at the base of it. Can I put them on sticks like the plant itself and expect more flowers to grow? How do you water them........this one is in bark it looks like. Please, as you can see......I need help. Thank you in advance. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 00:47:10 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:47:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade peppers so soon? References: <4.2.2.20010415170705.00df5ea0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3ADCE40D.278AA977@qwest.net> In my experience, there is considerably more daytime wilt with the increased sun exposure, a natural response. But if they perk back up at dusk, you no its a daily cyclical phenomenon [zucchini are notorious for this]. You evaluate the adequacy of your watering by how the plants look at dawn/dusk. To do so midday gives you a 'false reading'. Why not keep some shaded and some not and compare notes over the course of the growing season? Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > I've planted some of my green peppers under the shade of a tree and others > in direct sun. (It's been high of 81F.) I am surprised to see the ones > in full sun wilting considerably even when watered every day. The ones > under the tree are doing great. I know peppers need shade when it gets > late June, but this soon? > > jk > Tucson Az > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rjezeski@aol.com Wed Apr 18 16:46:51 2001 From: rjezeski@aol.com (rjezeski@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:46:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104181646.f3IGkpl29143@Ag.Arizona.Edu> L would like to know if you are suppose to cut off or trim back the flower stem on the red yucca plant. I assume that if you cut it back it should be after the plant has flowered. When can i trim back my bush morning glories. I also have a yucca pendula plant that has two six ft stems coming out of it with a bunch of white flowers, when they finish blooming do I cut the stem back and if I do how much should I remove. thank you From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Apr 18 16:55:23 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:55:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade peppers so soon? In-Reply-To: <3ADCE40D.278AA977@qwest.net> References: <4.2.2.20010415170705.00df5ea0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010418095300.00e00b10@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 05:47 PM 4/17/01 -0700, you wrote: >In my experience, there is considerably more daytime wilt with the increased >sun exposure, a natural response. But if they perk back up at dusk, you no its >a daily cyclical phenomenon [zucchini are notorious for this]. You evaluate >the adequacy of your watering by how the plants look at dawn/dusk. To do so >midday gives you a 'false reading'. Why not keep some shaded and some not and >compare notes over the course of the growing season? Thanks for the tip. Yes, they revived quite a bit by dawn. But the peppers I've shaded under a tree seem to be growing better, probably because they don't have to waste energy with heat stress. jk From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 18 17:47:09 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:47:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104181646.f3IGkpl29143@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADDD31D.6D02EE45@AuroraNow.org> You can cut back the flower stems on aloes & yuccas if you want after blooming, but you really don't need to. If you leave them, they'll dry out and easily detach without cutting. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 18 17:59:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:59:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 2 questions: Bulbs & Ficus References: <4.2.2.20010415170705.00df5ea0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <4.2.2.20010418095300.00e00b10@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3ADDD603.10AB9A9E@AuroraNow.org> Hi gang, I have two questions. #1: My son's girlfriend gave us some bulbs for easter: a star-gazer lily and 2 irises. I didn't even do bulbs when I lived in Michigan and there's no way I can put these things in the ground with my natives & xerics. Can I plant them together in a 24" deep, 18" wide pot? What else could I put in the pot for the "off season"? Any ideas? #2: I have a ficus in my living room that is caked with dust. It's really too large to haul outside to hose off, but just spraying it with a water bottle just seems to give the dust something more to cling to. Is there an easier way of giving this poor thing a bath than wiping every single leaf separately? My other house plants dust off easily with the waterbottle spray, but this ficus just gets worse and worse. Thanks! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Apr 18 17:53:29 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 10:53:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 2 questions: Bulbs & Ficus References: <3ADDD603.10AB9A9E@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3ADDD499.BD92BC20@email.sps.mot.com> I'm interested in learning more about the Easter Lilies as well. I went to a store yesterday, and they were giving away their potted easter lilies free, because people weren't buying them at half off. I grabbed several of them and brought them home, watered them, and put them in a shady location. Does anyone know if the Easter Lilies will make it here, planted in the ground. How deep should I plant their bulbs? I believe Easter Lilies are on bulbs, right? What would be the best location, sunny mornings, shady afternoons? Should I let them go till they collapse, and let the soil dry, then take them out and put them in the ground. Any help would be appreciated. I also got to free pots of freesia! Woooo Hoooo! Steal of a deal! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 152 Rose Bushes Planted! 83 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi gang, > I have two questions. > #1: My son's girlfriend gave us some bulbs for easter: a star-gazer lily > and 2 irises. I didn't even do bulbs when I lived in Michigan and > there's no way I can put these things in the ground with my natives & > xerics. Can I plant them together in a 24" deep, 18" wide pot? What else > could I put in the pot for the "off season"? Any ideas? > > #2: I have a ficus in my living room that is caked with dust. It's > really too large to haul outside to hose off, but just spraying it with > a water bottle just seems to give the dust something more to cling to. > Is there an easier way of giving this poor thing a bath than wiping > every single leaf separately? My other house plants dust off easily with > the waterbottle spray, but this ficus just gets worse and worse. > > Thanks! > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Horsemom12@aol.com Wed Apr 18 19:34:18 2001 From: Horsemom12@aol.com (Horsemom12@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 12:34:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104181934.f3IJYIl01715@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We may be moving to the Cave Creek area and would like to know how Peony's would do in this area. We are currently in Colorado and have found flowers to be challenging here, we are used to good dirt and condition in Michigan. Any flower help would be APPRECIATED. Thanks You in advance, Jill Meyer From KCGlaze45@home.com Wed Apr 18 20:04:23 2001 From: KCGlaze45@home.com (KCGlaze45@home.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:04:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104182004.f3IK4Nl06992@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Xmas Catus that is over 50 yrs. old, it was my Grandmother's and it's huge and beautiful, but I noticed that after if finished blooming there are some branches that are turning redish in color....wondering if it needs something while it's in it's growing stage?......kathy From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 18 20:37:02 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:37:02 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ephedra sp. (mormon tea) Message-ID: The following site has more information: http://www.desertusa.com/april97/du_mormontea.html for other information, go to a search engine such as "google.com" and do a search for 'mormon tea'.You will get several thousand web pages that talk about mormon tea. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Elizabeth Orr >To: 'Linda Drew' >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ephedra sp. (mormon tea) >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 08:59:59 -0400 > >help-I'm tying to win a contest. Who else might I contact? Do you think a >fax would help? >Elizabeth > >-----Original Message----- >From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] >Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2001 6:12 PM >To: eorr@cwcapital.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Ephedra sp. (mormon tea) > > >hmm... might be mormon tea; several different >species of Ephedra are given this common name. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > >From: eorr@cwcapital.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 11:58:56 -0700 (MST) > > > >Hello- We're in GA., & the extension guy couldn't help us. What's the >name > >of the desert plant whose stems make tea, a stimulant? > >Is it ephedra? The thing is, I need the "cowboy" name. > >Thanks, > >E. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 18 20:46:18 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:46:18 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pruning yucca, agave Message-ID: Others may be able to give you better answers from their own experience. Here is what I found in Eric Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting, and Care". Red yucca: after it blooms, the flower stalk dies, so you can leave it in place or cut it back as you wish. bush morning glory: I believe this is a spring bloomer, so you should be able to trim lightly after the spring bloom is compltee. Yucca pendula: after the flower stalk completes blooming you can remove it at the base if you wish. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rjezeski@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 09:46:51 -0700 (MST) > >L would like to know if you are suppose to cut off or trim back the flower >stem on the red yucca plant. I assume that if you cut it back it should be >after the plant has flowered. When can i trim back my bush morning glories. >I also have a yucca pendula plant that has two six ft stems coming out of >it with a bunch of white flowers, when they finish blooming do I cut the >stem back and if I do how much should I remove. > >thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From Samedis@aol.com Wed Apr 18 20:51:27 2001 From: Samedis@aol.com (Samedis@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:51:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104182051.f3IKpRl16160@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My neighbor across the street has a 15 to 20 yo Silk Oak tree that has completely died in the last 3 weeks. It has turned completely black. They do not have a clue what the cause may be. Any ideas? Should I be concerned about my 30 yo Pine tree? Thank you, Sam From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 18 20:55:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 20:55:24 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orchids Message-ID: I would suggest you cantact your nearest Orchid Society Tucson 299-8521 Phoenix 7:00 p.m. the first Thursday of the month The Valley Garden Center, 1809 N. 15th Ave., Phoenix, AZ Contact: Wilella Stimmell, 6047 E Exeter Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (602) 947-8479 Contact: Lou Ann Remeikis, 1999 President (480) 892-0263 http://welcome.to/orchidsocietyaz Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Gjgarvey@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 17:42:24 -0700 (MST) > >I just received a beautiful orchid plant. Can you tell me what the long >root things are that are at the base of it. Can I put them on sticks like >the plant itself and expect more flowers to grow? How do you water >them........this one is in bark it looks like. Please, as you can >see......I need help. Thank you in advance. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 18 21:03:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:03:06 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Silk Oak Message-ID: Silk Oak (Grevillea robusta) is very susceptible to Texas root rot. Since it died so suddenly, I would suspect that might be the cause. If possible, try to get a confirmed diagnosis (take good sample of soil with small roots intact, sealed in a plastic ziplock bag, to your local Cooperative Extension office.) Pines are much more resistant to Texas root rot and less likely to be affected. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Samedis@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 13:51:27 -0700 (MST) > >My neighbor across the street has a 15 to 20 yo Silk Oak tree that has >completely died in the last 3 weeks. It has turned completely black. They >do not have a clue what the cause may be. Any ideas? Should I be >concerned about my 30 yo Pine tree? >Thank you, Sam > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From hwhobson@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 18 22:11:47 2001 From: hwhobson@worldnet.att.net (hwhobson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:11:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104182211.f3IMBll01339@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a gardenia bush. It's not doing well. It is in a large pot on the east patio and gets no afternoon sun. morning sun is partial. what will make it thrive? From Ltoleu@aol.com Wed Apr 18 22:27:24 2001 From: Ltoleu@aol.com (Ltoleu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 15:27:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104182227.f3IMROl04222@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Something is eating the foliage on my beets and spinach in my vegetable garden. I've looked for worms and insects but none have been revealed. There are holes in the leaves, nothing on the edges. Help would be appreciated in identifying possible causes. Thanks a lot. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:15:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:15:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenias References: <200104182211.f3IMBll01339@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE201D.E9204355@qwest.net> Our alkaline soil is not your gardenias favored habitat. Making sure to add some acidifying agent [muracid, watering with some vinegar at least monthly] will be of assistance. Also, remove the tray from the base of the container to minimize the salt uptake when you water any container plant. The water should be allowed to soak the root ball and the excess disposed of. You can order our publication on Gardenias and Camellias [MC 29] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Linda Guy, MG hwhobson@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have a gardenia bush. It's not doing well. It is in a large pot on the east patio and gets no afternoon sun. morning sun is partial. what will make it thrive? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:18:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:18:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID References: <200104182227.f3IMROl04222@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE20C5.F1456DAD@qwest.net> The local bird population loved my spinach this year. Because the damage was not excessive, I did nothing. Knowing the holes were from birds, my family simply tolerated it and ate the spinach anyway. Tips on managing bird damage are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/bird.htm Linda Guy, MG Ltoleu@aol.com wrote: > Something is eating the foliage on my beets and spinach in my vegetable garden. I've looked for worms and insects but none have been revealed. There are holes in the leaves, nothing on the edges. Help would be appreciated in identifying possible causes. Thanks a lot. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:21:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:21:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: sick tomatoes References: <200104131512.IAA24894@aztec2.asu.edu> Message-ID: <3ADE2193.B9A2BA70@qwest.net> Does any of this seem to apply to your situation? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-hop.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm I agree it seems early for leaf hoppers, but aphids can do some damage. Are you using an insecticidal soap with the spray? This is more the season for aphids, I agree. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm Linda MIKE SHEETS wrote: > I garden with the Sun City Ag Club. I had an infestation of little black > critters that had the wedge shaped body form of a leaf hopper. At the same > time (that I noticed) there were some yellow-green aphids. That was about > 10 days ago. I began washing the plants with vigorous daily sprays of > water. The youngest plants began to succumb first, leaves yellowing, > shrivelling, dropping off. Stem tips looked brown and pinched. All my > tomato plants now seem infected. A general sort of graying of the leaves, > new leaves have yellowish color, purpling of some plant parts like leaf > undersides and some stems. Leaves are drooping, mostly, most not deforming > with characteristic curl of Curly Top. > > I've seen "Curly Top" many times before. This plague has a very different > timing and appearance. I usually see a green leaf hopper almost a 1/4 inch > long that precipitates the usual Curly Top onset much later, after tomatoes > are on. Doesn't look like I'll get any this year. Yesterday, on the way > out of the gardens, I looked carefully at other plots and tomatoes. Over > half appear to be affected same as mine. There's going to be a lot of > unhappy gardners out here this year. > > My pepper plants don't look so good either. > > Any thoughts, notions, or potions? > > Thankyou, > Mike Sheets, member Sun City Ag Club > > 623-972-8574 Answer machine always on, I am not. > > -- > Worship the gods, listen to their advice, > but don't lend them money. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:33:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:33:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Glad Bulbs References: <200104050332.f353Wpd14781@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE2435.4B4F00E8@qwest.net> Glads are planted between midOctober and late December, to bloom March through April. If planted at two week intervals, the bed will bloom over a longer period of time. You can store your bulbs indoors in a cool, dry and dark place, but do not use an air-tight container or plastic sacks. Linda Guy, MG lfitzhugh@inficad.com wrote: > April 4,2001 > shorlty after I purchased about 210 Gladiola bulbs I became too ill to plant them. Questions: 1. Is it to late to plant them in the ground? 2. Can they be planted in containers? 3.If they cannot be planted,can they be placed in to some kind of soil mix and stored untill the next planting season? Thank you. , L.Fitzhugh > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:39:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:39:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting References: <200104031809.f33I9Id13947@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3ACBF349.18258C8E@sprintmail.com> Message-ID: <3ADE259C.708B55C6@qwest.net> I tolerate the roaches because [1] they provide some level of compost 'turning' at the minute level and [2] they are in the compost and not in my house. This is purely anecdotal, but most of our home's roach problems [I live in irrigated Arcadia where most of the yards are lush and well watered] disappeared when I started a substantial compost operation in the far corner of the backyard. I often have flies when there is a lot of fruit/produce waste exposed on the top of my pile. I counter this by layering over with lawn clippings that I save for this purpose in a separate container. Your pile's smell means that it lacks air and needs to be turned; also possibly that it is overwatered. Have you ever opened a bag of grass clippings that sat in an alley until the quarterly pick-up? Dirty diapers........ There is a great trouble shooting table in the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/compost.html Linda Guy, MG K&V Countryman wrote: > I have a problem with flies (thousands of them!) in my compost bins especially when I add grass cuttings to it. The grass also gives it an unpleasant odor. I've also had a healthy crop of roaches at times. Got any great solutions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 18 23:42:10 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 16:42:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gourds and Cukes References: <200104081552.f38Fqcd00991@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE2652.D8844D38@qwest.net> You don't give much info, and perhaps you've simply been starting at the wrong time. We have an excellent publication that lists planting dates at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Gourds are generally easy to grow [cukes burn up more easily] and without information on your past practices it's hard to suggest what went wrong. Linda Guy, MG dabl@inficad.com wrote: > I have had little success in growing gourds in my Phoenix garden. When do I plant and what care do they need? Whould I follow the same rules for cucumbers and mellons? > Thanks, > Dean > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 18 23:49:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:49:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Silk Oak turned black Message-ID: Sam, Silk Oak trees are quite susceptable to Texas Root Rot however the symptoms and the time of year do not fit for TRR. If the tree looks as if some one had burned it with a blow torch than the problem could be Fire Blight. If the bark has cracked revealling black sooty looking fungi then the problem is Sooty Canker. Pines are not generally suscepable to any of the above however that does not mean that they cannot become a host. With Fireblight the disease is spead by insects. With Sooty Canker the disease is spread by wind ,rain, insects, birds and pruning tools and enters the tree through a cut or damaged area. For a positive ID I would sugest that a sample be taken to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. In any event I would sugest that you encourage your neighbor to have the tree removed and disposed of. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From doryvan@aol.com Thu Apr 19 00:50:42 2001 From: doryvan@aol.com (doryvan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 17:50:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104190050.f3J0ogl26912@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have heard that wrapping exposed citrus branches with burlap protects against sunburn. Where can I get more information on the subject? Is there a right and wrong way to do the wrapping? How many layers? Any help will be appreciated. Doris From jjveg@webtv.net Thu Apr 19 02:07:51 2001 From: jjveg@webtv.net (jjveg@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:07:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104190207.f3J27pl05810@Ag.Arizona.Edu> why do the leaves turn yellow and fall off and the buds fall off before they flower on our year old hibiscus plants? what type of fertilizer should i be useing? From Beatbuds@aol.com Thu Apr 19 02:39:56 2001 From: Beatbuds@aol.com (Beatbuds@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 19:39:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104190239.f3J2dul09240@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! We will be spending our summers in Oregon and I would like to know what to do about our grass. We have St Augusta Bermuda and I would like to know what the minimal amount of maintenance would be to keep it healthy, or does it matter? Also, I have a red grape and a green grape in my yard which have leafed out nicely. There are many small bunches of grapes on both, however, I notice that the grape clusters seem to be looking shaggy and scraggly, as if the tiny little grapes are drying up and blowing away. This is only on the red one, not the green. They are about 8 feet apart. The leaves are healthy and happy. Any suggestions? Also, when is it o.k. to cut back spent flower bulb foliage? Are there some that will not come back no matter what I do, and those can be cut now? I have Daffodils, tulips, rananculus, crocus, fresia, and some other misc. Thanks for your help!!! Stephanie Beatty/Beatbuds@aol.com From generobert@aol.com Thu Apr 19 04:11:19 2001 From: generobert@aol.com (generobert@aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:11:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104190411.f3J4BJl22337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I've looked(without success) for info on the "Desert Hibiscus" which I was told will grow well in the Las Vegas desert climate. The botanical name I was given is"anisoeontea". I'm not sure if these names are correct but would appreciate any help. Thank you. From hokon1@home.com Thu Apr 19 04:25:04 2001 From: hokon1@home.com (hokon1@home.com) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:25:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104190425.f3J4Oxl23676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i tryed to get a answer to may question sometime back but i guess you forget me i would like to know how much to water may new orang tree. thank you From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 19 04:37:12 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:37:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigating Citrus References: <200104190425.f3J4Oxl23676@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE6B78.2AC023C3@qwest.net> I'm sorry your question was overlooked. Please go to the following on-line publication on irrigating citrus. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass hokon1@home.com wrote: > i tryed to get a answer to may question sometime back but i guess you forget me > i would like to know how much to water may > new orang tree. > > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 19 04:49:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 04:49:06 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] desert hibiscus Message-ID: There is a wildflower called 'desert hibiscus'. The botanical name is Hibiscus denudatus and it is a native in the Las Vegas area. I'm not familiar with the name "anisoeontea". Could you describe the plant or give us more information about it? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: generobert@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:11:19 -0700 (MST) > >I've looked(without success) for info on the "Desert Hibiscus" which I was >told will grow well in the Las Vegas desert climate. >The botanical name I was given is"anisoeontea". I'm not sure if these names >are correct but would appreciate any help. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Apr 19 04:50:13 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 21:50:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Hibiscus References: <200104190411.f3J4BJl22337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADE6E85.13C43C47@qwest.net> Could you be referring to Anisodontea - also known as Cape Mallow? I found it in the Sunset Western Garden Book. It states that it is an evergreen shrub from South Africa. The zones listed (Sunset zones) are 14-24. The Sunset zone for Las Vegas is 11, same as Phoenix. I located a few web sites with information on the plant. They are: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Malvaceae/index.html http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/1079/anisodon.html http://www.smgrowers.com/anisodon.htm These sites should give you plenty of information to make your decision. Sue Bass generobert@aol.com wrote: > I've looked(without success) for info on the "Desert Hibiscus" which I was told will grow well in the Las Vegas desert climate. > The botanical name I was given is"anisoeontea". I'm not sure if these names are correct but would appreciate any help. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clydic@netzone.com Thu Apr 19 05:09:26 2001 From: clydic@netzone.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:09:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting In-Reply-To: <3ADE259C.708B55C6@qwest.net> Message-ID: A "flies" suggestion from Gila County: A composter friend gave us this tip and we've found it works wonders. Take an empty gallon milk jug or a large juice container (plastic-56 oz or larger). Drill several holes in the wall about 3 inches up from the bottom. Put approx 1 cup of milk (sweet or sour) and part of a banana peel (in any condition). Suspend from a tree or something close to the compost pile. This concoction will ferment and it's like Chanel #5 to flies. They'll enter the container thru the holes (about 1/4 " in diameter), then cannot find their way back out. These seem to lure only flies, so your "friendlies" are safe. We've found they're effective around horse pens as well. People will ask you what the ugly jar is. Tell them it's decoration... P.S. They will tend to dry out after a few months; I just add water. Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 4:39 PM To: K&V Countryman Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting I tolerate the roaches because [1] they provide some level of compost 'turning' at the minute level and [2] they are in the compost and not in my house. This is purely anecdotal, but most of our home's roach problems [I live in irrigated Arcadia where most of the yards are lush and well watered] disappeared when I started a substantial compost operation in the far corner of the backyard. I often have flies when there is a lot of fruit/produce waste exposed on the top of my pile. I counter this by layering over with lawn clippings that I save for this purpose in a separate container. Your pile's smell means that it lacks air and needs to be turned; also possibly that it is overwatered. Have you ever opened a bag of grass clippings that sat in an alley until the quarterly pick-up? Dirty diapers........ There is a great trouble shooting table in the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/compost.html Linda Guy, MG K&V Countryman wrote: > I have a problem with flies (thousands of them!) in my compost bins especially when I add grass cuttings to it. The grass also gives it an unpleasant odor. I've also had a healthy crop of roaches at times. Got any great solutions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Apr 19 14:16:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:16:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus leaf/bud drop References: <200104190207.f3J27pl05810@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADEF33F.70C0B754@AuroraNow.org> The best fertilizer for hibiscus is palm fertilizer. Hibiscus like very well drained soil with regular but not heavy watering. (I've found mixing 1/2 cactus mix or sand with 1/2 potting soil works really well). Yellowing & bud/leaf drop suggest either over or under watering, too much sun or too much wind. If you're in the low desert valley, your hibiscus should be past recovering from any frost damage by now. (Just sharing from experience--not a master gardener) -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- jjveg@webtv.net wrote: > > why do the leaves turn > yellow and fall off and the > buds fall off before they > flower on our year old > hibiscus plants? > what type of fertilizer > should i be useing? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Apr 19 14:27:52 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 07:27:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert Hibiscus References: <200104190411.f3J4BJl22337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3ADE6E85.13C43C47@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3ADEF5E8.2E1E3D52@AuroraNow.org> I just planted a cape mallow a few weeks ago here in zone 12. The WGB doesn't give any indication why they wouldn't do well here. They're supposed to be hardy to about 25*, and drought tolerant once established, but we'll see how it responds to heat in a couple months. Right now about 75% my blooms have gone over to seed pods so I've been collecting the seeds. This plant reminds me much more of our native desert mallow (also malvaceae) than a cultivar hibiscus. The flowers are about 1 to 1-1/2 inches, light pink with magenta/red veins and are quite nice. Regular hybrid and chinese hibiscus would do fine in Las Vegas I would think as long as they're brought indoors for frost/freeze nights in the winter, or otherwise protected--and of course they'd need more attention and water than the cape mallow. (I keep my hibiscus in containers and my cape mallow is in the ground against a western facing wall) -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From kauinohea7@collegeclub.com Thu Apr 19 16:47:10 2001 From: kauinohea7@collegeclub.com (kauinohea7@collegeclub.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 09:47:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104191647.f3JGlAl08359@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what paralyzes the cabbage looper? From mdavishc@yahoo.com Thu Apr 19 18:38:39 2001 From: mdavishc@yahoo.com (mdavishc@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:38:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104191838.f3JIcdl29965@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a valencia orange tree that is going on 7 years old. I have never had a complete fruit grow on this tree. They usually get about the size of quarters(round) and then drop. Last year they got to that size, turned black and dropped. THis year there are "tons" of blossoms I water it once a week, a good soak, I fertalized it in feb. and will again in May. What am I doing wrong or what is wrong? I haven't pruned this tree in 3 years. I didn't know I wasn't suppossed to but no I do. Mark Davis From alipat@tds.net Thu Apr 19 20:37:58 2001 From: alipat@tds.net (alipat@tds.net) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 13:37:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104192037.f3JKbwl21956@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I get rid of the aphids on my rose bush. I From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Apr 19 21:08:13 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 14:08:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104192037.f3JKbwl21956@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADF53BD.92F1F9EE@email.sps.mot.com> If you just have a few on a couple of rose buds, I just squish em! If you have quite a few, you can spray them off with a strong jet of water. They won't make it back up on the rose buds, as I understand it. If you want something stronger, there is insecticidal soap, and other insecticides available at your local garden store. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 152 Rose Bushes Planted! 83 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! alipat@tds.net wrote: > How do I get rid of the aphids on my rose bush. I > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 19 22:24:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 22:24:06 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, Valencia orange not producing Message-ID: Mark, I don't have an answer, but here are some things to narrow down what the problem might be. Citrus do not thrive if the trunk is covered with soil. Check the trunk. Roots should be present an inch or so under the ground. If you have to dig down several inches to see the first roots, the trunk is coming into contact with soil. Pull away excess soil. Is there any oozing or cracking visible at the soil line? Is there mulch around the trunk? Remove weeds, groundcover and grass around the citrus to reduce competition for water and nutrients. How cold does it get in your area? If the temperature dips to 25, you may be seeing frost damage. The young fruit are sensitive to water stress. Water requirements go up sharply as the fruit begins to develop. Could you provide more information on how, when and how much you water? For example, daily needs may increase from 3 in January to 12 in March, 16 in April, 20 in May, 25 in June and 30 in July (just relative measures to give you an idea of increase). I think information on the above will help us narrow down what might be wrong. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mdavishc@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 11:38:39 -0700 (MST) > >I have a valencia orange tree that is going on >7 years old. I have never had a complete fruit >grow on this tree. They usually get about the >size of quarters(round) and then drop. Last >year they got to that size, turned black and >dropped. THis year there are "tons" of blossoms >I water it once a week, a good soak, I fertalized it in feb. >and will again in May. What am I doing wrong > or what is wrong? I haven't pruned this tree >in 3 years. I didn't know I wasn't suppossed >to but no I do. >Mark Davis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 19 22:58:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:58:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, Wraping with burlap Message-ID: <9f.1459d6dc.2810c77b@aol.com> Doris, The reason for wraping citrus with burlap is to protect the limbs and trunk from sunburn. If the limbs and trunk are shielded with foliage then there is not a reason to cover with burlap. If however the tree has been pruned too much and the limbs and trunk are exposed to direct sunlight then the areas that are exposed should be covered with one layer of burlap or painted white to protect from sunburn. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 19 22:58:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 18:58:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree, 7 years old with no fruit Message-ID: <92.13757102.2810c77c@aol.com> Mark, Usually a citrus tree does not bear much fruit until it is 5 years old, but sometimes they get stubborn and and don't bear fruit for a longer period. Sounds as if you are careing for the tree correctly, however lets examine what you mean by a "good soak". After you have irrigated the water should have penetrated 3 feet deep throughout the root zone. Check out this website for proper irrigation of citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From vracette111@aol.com Thu Apr 19 23:28:26 2001 From: vracette111@aol.com (vracette111@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:28:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104192328.f3JNSQl24256@Ag.Arizona.Edu> About three months ago I had 1 gallon miniature and standred oleanders planted. I notice that whenever I water them, even though I may wait two weeks, some of the leaves turn yellow. Am I supposed to totally ignore watering these plants? Thank you Veronica From vracette111@aol.com Thu Apr 19 23:34:21 2001 From: vracette111@aol.com (vracette111@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 16:34:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104192334.f3JNYLl25356@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When I moved into my new home, there were two elms in the front yard that had been very much neglected, to the point that they were in shock. After nursing them for almost a year, they have recovered to the point that some of their branches have almost reached the ground! They have wells, and I fill them with water about every week at this time. When the weather gets extremely hot, I plan to fill the wells every day. I believe they are evergreen elms. They are about 15 ft tall and about 18ft across. the trunk is about 6 in in diameter. My questions are, am I watering correctly? Also, can I trim the branches at this time of year? Thank you Veronica From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Apr 20 00:18:10 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 17:18:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] oleander References: <200104192328.f3JNSQl24256@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ADF8042.10CA2F52@AuroraNow.org> Veronica, It sounds to me like you may not have good draining soil for your oleanders. I almost killed a couple with kindness by not realizing how rich and dark the soil was when I planted them. I moved them into a nice, poor sandy spot and they're doing fine now. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 20 03:22:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:22:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Elm trees, watering Message-ID: Watering once a week now and once every day during the summer will be over watering your elm trees. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html It will be ok to prune now but do not remove more than 15% at one time. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From mkmullign@aol.com Fri Apr 20 06:06:40 2001 From: mkmullign@aol.com (mkmullign@aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2001 23:06:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104200606.f3K66el08053@Ag.Arizona.Edu> To Whom It May Concern: I live on a 1-acre, irrigated lot in North Central Phoenix. The yard is a mix of Bermuda, St. Augustine and dichondra. I have been hand-picking burr clover over the past months and have literally removed cartloads. The yard looks pretty good and I have gotten some great exercise, but I would like to know if this year's pulling of weeds is likely to have any positive effect on the yard NEXT year. People keep telling me that it is pointless to pull the weeds out, as the irrigation carries in seeds. (Please do not suggest the use of a chemical weed-killers, as we raise chickens (for eggs) and goats.) Thanks. I appreciate your response. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri Apr 20 06:18:38 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 02:18:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Jill, I have never seen any peonies growing here in the Phoenix area, altho there may be several people that manage to get them to grow. I didn't think dinner-plate dahlias grew here also, but I talked to a guy today that said his will be blooming in July - he digs the bulbs up in the fall and replants in the spring. For every plant that won't grow here because it is too hot or it doesn't get cold enough in the winter, we have one that you can't grow in Colorado. Check out the various nurseries, botanical gardens, and home gardens to see what is available. The spring flower blooming season is last of Feb, March, April and 1st part of May. Then the summer blooming season is June, July, and Aug and maybe part of Sept. You can have flowers blooming here year round, which is kind of hard to do in Colorado when it gets 20 and 30 below 0. Val From sh_schokravi@hotmail.com Fri Apr 20 15:58:55 2001 From: sh_schokravi@hotmail.com (Shayan Shokravi) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 20:28:55 +0430 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: HI I am interested to any information about lawn sod sub layers (under sod)in both form of plates and roll . Please notice that I don't want the layers of installation bed.I want the formulation of primary bed ( before scattering lawn seeds). with so appreciation SHAYAN _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Fri Apr 20 17:56:52 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 10:56:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] good planting method for amaranth In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010420105308.019c6df0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Thought I'd share experience with amaranth, which I'm growing for greens this summer. I strongly recommend starting it indoors and transplanting when first true leaves emerge. I tried direct sowing but it was a dismal failure. In arid climate the ground dries out too easily in the top 1/4". The seeds sprout readily when inside your house and don't have to face wind or dryness. And they transplant really easily-- seems almost impossible to kill the suckers. You can space them efficiently too this way. jk From Griffithbw@aol.com Fri Apr 20 18:26:25 2001 From: Griffithbw@aol.com (Griffithbw@aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 11:26:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104201826.f3KIQPl01795@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I need help to save a beautiful Australian bottle tree. Terry Mikel helped our condo complex two years ago regarding pruning the treets and I would like his (or someone he recommends) to help again. From mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net Sat Apr 21 01:27:50 2001 From: mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net (mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2001 18:27:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104210127.f3L1Rol02605@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Any hints on rabbit-resistant wildflowers ? The bunnies munched my daisy and poppy seedlings. Bluebells and penstemon work well, but I want some more variety. Thanks ! From umiller@azdps.com Sat Apr 21 12:12:52 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 05:12:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit resistant wildflowers In-Reply-To: <200104210127.f3L1Rol02605@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: They normally don't eat desert marigolds, though when they're hungry enough, they'll nibble at them, too. But normally they stay away from them. I have two large bunches of desert marigolds in my front yard that the rabbits are staying away from. But a few months ago they were biting off the heads of some of the flowers. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net Sent: Friday, April 20, 2001 6:28 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Any hints on rabbit-resistant wildflowers ? The bunnies munched my daisy and poppy seedlings. Bluebells and penstemon work well, but I want some more variety. Thanks ! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jgloyd@worldnet.att.net Sat Apr 21 15:07:35 2001 From: jgloyd@worldnet.att.net (jgloyd@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:07:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104211507.f3LF7Zl01184@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what time of year is best to plant -- specifically chilean mesquite? Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Apr 21 21:15:14 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 21:15:14 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting mesquite Message-ID: Probably the best planting time in Phoenix/Tucson is October -- day temperatures are lower and the soil is warm. Second best would be March-April. You can probably plant mesquite now, just give a little more attention to water and afternoon shading until roots can develop. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jgloyd@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 08:07:35 -0700 (MST) > >what time of year is best to plant -- specifically chilean mesquite? >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Apr 21 22:45:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 18:45:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil preparation for turf Message-ID: <15.131116a2.28136794@aol.com> Shayan, I think that you will find the answers that you are looking for at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 22 02:12:18 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:12:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants Less Attractive to Rabbits References: <200104210127.f3L1Rol02605@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE23E02.F7495378@qwest.net> You can view a publication put out by the University of Arizona entitled, "Plants Less Attractive To Rabbits in the Low Desert" by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit1.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener mmittelstaedt@earthlink.net wrote: > Any hints on rabbit-resistant wildflowers ? The bunnies munched my daisy and poppy seedlings. Bluebells and penstemon work well, but I want some more variety. Thanks ! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 22 02:21:31 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 19:21:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cabbage Looper References: <200104191647.f3JGlAl08359@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE2402B.57221419@qwest.net> You can view information on controlling cabbage loopers at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/looper.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener kauinohea7@collegeclub.com wrote: > what paralyzes the cabbage looper? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From stone@mohaveaz.com Sun Apr 22 05:33:47 2001 From: stone@mohaveaz.com (stone@mohaveaz.com) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2001 22:33:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104220533.f3M5Xll15842@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I am looking for the name of the trees that they have in the parkig lot of home depots in Phoenix. They have a white flower on them. Your help would be appreciated.There also is a tree with a pinkish purple flower on them which I would love to no the name of and where to purchase. Thankyou. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 22 18:28:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:28:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] ID of trees at Home Depot Parking Lot Message-ID: The trees in the store at Broadway and Val Vista in Mesa are called Sissoo and are available at many nurseries. Two possibilities for trees with pink purple bloom are Desert Willow and Orchid Tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 22 18:49:16 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2001 14:49:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on rose bushes Message-ID: <3e.a8deb70.281481ac@aol.com> Joan, This has been an especially bad year for the insect called thrips as well as other insects. The thrips enter the bud before it opens and chew on the edge of the petals causing them to turn brown or black. Normally the thrips only go for the light colored roses, but this year they are not fussy. If you have used a systemic insecticide applied to the ground and you applied it early enough under normal conditioins it would prevent the thrips from attacking the rose buds. Most rosarians do not use the systemic insecticide because it will not only kill the bad bugs but the good ones also, as well as the good bacteria in the soil. The consensus among rosarians is to spray the buds when they are in a very young stage weekly with the insecticide Cygon for control of thrips. If you will peel the petals back on a rose that is affected by thrips and your eyesight is good you will see the tiny critters scurrying about. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From Cactiel@aol.com Mon Apr 23 09:48:53 2001 From: Cactiel@aol.com (Cactiel@aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 02:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104230948.f3N9mrl29908@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have you decided where or/and when you are having the Low Desert Conference this year? From richk@hwcae.honeywell.com Mon Apr 23 12:34:09 2001 From: richk@hwcae.honeywell.com (Richard King) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 05:34:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] product help Message-ID: <3AE42141.6C41CF7E@hwcae.honeywell.com> I was hoping that someone on the list would know where I could obtain, in the Phoenix area, the following: Roots 2 Roots 2 with iron Noburn Liquid seaweed Thank You, Richard King From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 14:42:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:42:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Weeds References: <200104200606.f3K66el08053@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE43F4C.2464158B@qwest.net> There is an organic [corn by-product] weed and feed product that is available through Gardens Alive! I have never tried it and I do not know if it will specifically address your burr-clover situation. The website is http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp? They have been offering $20 off any order and it may be of interest for you to try. Other organic purveyors include Peaceful Valley http://www.groworganic.com/a/a1.html?sCategory=Weed%20%26%20Pest%20Management Biocontrol Network http://www.biconet.com/index.html Linda Guy, Master Gardener mkmullign@aol.com wrote: > To Whom It May Concern: I live on a 1-acre, irrigated lot in North Central Phoenix. The yard is a mix of Bermuda, St. Augustine and dichondra. I have been hand-picking burr clover over the past months and have literally removed cartloads. The yard looks pretty good and I have gotten some great exercise, but I would like to know if this year's pulling of weeds is likely to have any positive effect on the yard NEXT year. People keep telling me that it is pointless to pull the weeds out, as the irrigation carries in seeds. (Please do not suggest the use of a chemical weed-killers, as we raise chickens (for eggs) and goats.) Thanks. I appreciate your response. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 14:45:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:45:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes References: <200104130614.f3D6EUC09256@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE44016.AD7DBE08@qwest.net> First of all, if you do not have a short season tomato [which usually has the word "early" in its name], your tomatoes may be right on track. Secondly, if your soil amendments were put in less than two weeks before planting, they may be continuing to decompose to the short-term detriment of your vegetables. Lastly, we are experiencing a somewhat variable temperature and if they are in partial shade, the cooler temps may be causing them to slow their growth a bit. Linda Guy, MG wolfcookie@qwest.net wrote: > This is my first year at desert gardening. I started seeds indoors. My tomatoes are now 2 to 3 feet high and the plants look great but I have no blossoms. > > I put in a mixture of topsoil and composted manure and built it up over the desert soil about 4 inches. > > What do I need to add to get my plants to blossom and set fruit. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From nr318@aol.com Mon Apr 23 14:46:17 2001 From: nr318@aol.com (nr318@aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:46:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104231446.f3NEkHp07526@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When does one put down a preemergent? From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 14:48:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 07:48:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raspberry Vine References: <200104121623.f3CGNDC04415@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE440BB.25B614B2@qwest.net> Your best bet is to contact our counterparts in your own county [Cooperative Extension]. This is as easy as checking the county listings in the government section of the phone book. Or take a look at http://www.gardening.usda.gov/region.html Linda Guy, Master Gardener Phoenix, Maricopa County, AZ farmboy@omniglobal.net wrote: > I have approximately 4 - 5 acres of Japanese Purpleleaf Honesuckle at our Corporate Office in Kerrville, TX. A Raspberry vine has encroached and is now infested. How can I remove it? > > Is there anything I can broadcast or spray? Is there any mechanical method? > > Previous years of pulling by hand has only made things worse. > > Heath Thompson > Property Manager > LD Brinkman Corp./ Mr. Gatti's Inc. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 22:50:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:50:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Baja Fairy Duster & Climbing Milkweed References: <3AE31B59.50504@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AE4B1B7.3D809945@qwest.net> I'm not sure I'm the best person to ask because if I want a duplicate of something in my yard, I just wait a season and most of the leguminous plants satisfy my needs with the volunteers that sprout in my gravel-covered yard. So I'd suggest that you emulate what happens with the seeds that fall to the gravel by perhaps scarifying it a bit before planting it in your containers. Or scratch it into the ground directly and see how it does. As to the climbing milkweed, if you saw it at DBG you should call them and see if they have some in the plant shop and/or how to get some. I'm not familiar with this plant. The DBG's hotline M-F 10- 11:30 should also help with your Calliandra propogation question. Sorry I wasn't more helpful. Linda Ann Key wrote: > Linda, > I was wondering how to propagate Baja Fairy Duster. I have some seed > from last year but can't find any information about starting it. > Also, I saw some climbing milkweed growing at the Desert Botanical > Garden but have not been able to find a local nursery that has any. Got > a source for this plant. My garden is planted mainly for hummingbirds > and butterflies. Thanks, Ann Key From pwhitehead@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 22:51:49 2001 From: pwhitehead@qwest.net (pwhitehead@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:51:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104232251.f3NMpnu28870@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have some blackberry plants growing in our yard. What is the best way to take care of them for maximum fruit production? From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 23 23:01:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 16:01:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preemergent Use References: <200104231446.f3NEkHp07526@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE4B44E.D7142841@qwest.net> Depends on what you are trying to end-run. Winter or summer annual weeds? In mulched yards/beds or in turf? For lawns check out the relevant section of the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/weed.html For a list of publications on weed control, see http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds Instructions for ordering these publications are at the top of that page. The relevant weed control section for vegetable gardens [where you wouldn't use a preemergent because it would keep your veggie seeds from sprouting as well] is at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/weed.html If you are using preemergent on gravel mulched areas, they rarely last a full year [usually just the growing season that you anticipate] and the performance is enhanced if the gravel top remains as unstirred as possible, letting the preemergent 'crust over' into a barrier of sorts. As with all chemicals, our primary advice is for you to read the labels very well. Linda Guy, MG nr318@aol.com wrote: > When does one put down a preemergent? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 23 23:30:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:30:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preemergent weed killer application time Message-ID: For a preemergent weed killer to be most effective it should be applied twice a year, once in the fall to keep winter weeds from sprouting and again in late winter for the summer weeds. I target mid October to mid November in the fall and mid February to mid March in the spring. I try to apply the preemergent before a rain if possible to wash the chemical into the soil. This needs to happen with in three weeks since most preemergents lose effectiveness after three weeks. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From manoj.chandran@philips.com Tue Apr 24 00:19:48 2001 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com (manoj.chandran@philips.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 19:19:48 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] brown dry spots in lawn Message-ID: <0056910011601780000002L102*@MHS> Hi, The lawn in my backyard has developed several dry, brown spots. Any ideas as to what these spots are and why they developed? What can I do to get the grass back? I water the lawn with sprinklers for 12 minutes twice a week at 8:00 am. Thanks. -Manoj From SAHend@webtv.net Tue Apr 24 00:50:32 2001 From: SAHend@webtv.net (Susan Hendricks) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 17:50:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Alpine strawberries Message-ID: <8353-3AE4CDD8-1389@storefull-285.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Where can I find Alpine strawwberry plants locally or by mail order? Many thanks. From jaeger@goodnet.com Tue Apr 24 03:48:42 2001 From: jaeger@goodnet.com (jaeger@goodnet.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:48:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104240348.f3O3mgu12688@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Chandler Arizona. Eight years ago my husband and I planted 6 pine trees, 3 Allepos, 2 Eldaricas, and a Canary Pine. They grew quite well for several years each becoming well over 15 feet tall. Now, only 2 are still standing the others fell over during wind storms. What did we do wrong? Are pine trees prone to falling over in this part of Arizona? Did our watering system not allow the roots to grow deep enough to support the tree? Did they get too much surface water? All 4 of the fallen trees looked the same at the bottom of the trunk. They all had a smooth outer edge with a small portion in the middle for roots. We really liked our pine trees but now we are leary about planting ANY trees until we find out just what when wrong. Thanks for any advise you can offer! From paulandjan@myexcel.com Tue Apr 24 05:53:46 2001 From: paulandjan@myexcel.com (paulandjan@myexcel.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:53:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104240553.f3O5rku27723@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1. I have a small back yard. I want a nice small tree that has the appearamce of the mesquite tree. I can not have one that has thorns and the roots travel a far distance and I'd prefer not to have bean pods. Any suggestions? Are there any small (20 foot or less) that stay green all year? 2. is there a deadline as to when rolled grass should be planted? Any hints on using rolled grass? From n.savage@asu.edu Tue Apr 24 06:46:47 2001 From: n.savage@asu.edu (N. Savage) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 23:46:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] snails Message-ID: Hi gardners, I wonder if you could tell me how to kindly remove snails from my garden. The south side of the yard has a fence so it is always shady and moist and the snails sure like it there. They also enjoy the wet of the fountain and the plants around it. They have cute little spiral shells, but I frown on their munching on the plant leaves. I am uninclined to use poisions in my yard because of my five felines. I'll bet you all know what to do. Thanks, Leslie From Irenehope@aol.com Tue Apr 24 13:30:18 2001 From: Irenehope@aol.com (Irenehope@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 06:30:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104241330.f3ODUIu08879@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We'll be moving to the Phoenix area @ Aug/Sept. I want to bring my plumeria with me. We' ve grown it from a tiny sticl. It's now @ 6 ft tall, and last year the top split to 3 brances. It's in a pot. Can you tell me the best way to bring it. Among my options are; shipping with my furniture, sending via U S Post or UPS, carrying it with us in the car, some how, as we drive across country from Connecticut. If you can think of any other options, please let me know. Thank you, Irene From trifan@cybertours.com Tue Apr 24 14:28:21 2001 From: trifan@cybertours.com (trifan@cybertours.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 07:28:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104241428.f3OESLu15491@Ag.Arizona.Edu> do lemon, lime and avocado trees do well in tucson? If any do, what varieties of any are sugested for the backyard gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 15:10:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:10:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Milkweed Message-ID: The climbing milkweed might be Sarcostemma cyanchoides. It is listed in Kittie Parker's Arizona Weeds book. This is considered a native weed, common on ranches and in desert washes. I have one growing in my yard that seems to attract insects, butterflies and small birds (verdins). Best source might be to collect seeds and grow yourself. Linda Drew Master Gardener >Ann Key wrote: > > > Linda, > > I was wondering how to propagate Baja Fairy Duster. I have some seed > > from last year but can't find any information about starting it. > > Also, I saw some climbing milkweed growing at the Desert Botanical > > Garden but have not been able to find a local nursery that has any. Got > > a source for this plant. My garden is planted mainly for hummingbirds > > and butterflies. Thanks, Ann Key > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 15:50:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:50:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] blackberries Message-ID: First choose a variety suited to our climate. Those developed at Texas A&M seem to do well in S. Arizona. Next, know whether you are growing an erect or trailing variety because care is slightly different. Nere is some basic information from Texas A&M: Blackberry Q: When do you prune blackberries? A: Remove dead canes immediately after fruiting in the spring. Be careful not to cut out the new canes in the process as they represent next year's crop. The new canes should be tip pruned from June to September to form a bushy hedge to facilitate harvest. Q: What do you use to fertilize blackberries? A: Use 21-0-0 or 15-5-10 depending on your soil pH. If your soil pH is above 7 use only 21-0-0 and use 15-5-10 for the first application if your pH is below 7. Use about 4 - 5 pounds per 100 feet of row. Make the first application in early spring, usually right before budbreak. A second application can be made in June if the growth is poor. Use 21-0-0 for the second application regardless of soil pH. Q. When is the best time to plant blackberries? A. The best time to plant berries is in January and/or February. Blackberries are best started from root cuttings, but you will need plants to establish raspberries. The best blackberries for your area are Brazos, Rosborough, and Shawnee. There are two thornless blackberry selections you may want to try, Navajo and Arapho. The only raspberry which will survive in your area is Dorman Red. Although it does not have the quality that the northern raspberries have, it is a raspberry which will grow in the south. The only significant problem you may encounter is iron chlorosis caused by high pH soils. You will probably need to apply iron chelates if your soil pH is above 7.5. For more information, use your favorite search engine and enter a search for "rosborough blackberry'. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pwhitehead@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 15:51:49 -0700 (MST) > >We have some blackberry plants growing in our yard. What is the best way to >take care of them for maximum fruit production? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 15:53:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:53:58 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine trees blown down Message-ID: Others are more qualified to give you an answer, but from your description it sounds like the trees were potbound and failed to develop a good root system. Before planting, check that roots are not circling in the pot. If they are you may need to cut the roots to break the 'circling' habit and encourage the roots to grow outward. Make sure the planting hole is just the depth of the root ball and 4-5 times as wide. No need to use amendments, just sift out larger rocks. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jaeger@goodnet.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 20:48:42 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Chandler Arizona. Eight years ago my husband and I planted 6 >pine trees, 3 Allepos, 2 Eldaricas, and a Canary Pine. They grew quite >well for several years each becoming well over 15 feet tall. Now, only 2 >are still standing the others fell over during wind storms. What did we do >wrong? Are pine trees prone to falling over in this part of Arizona? Did >our watering system not allow the roots to grow deep enough to support the >tree? Did they get too much surface water? > >All 4 of the fallen trees looked the same at the bottom of the trunk. They >all had a smooth outer edge with a small portion in the middle for roots. > >We really liked our pine trees but now we are leary about planting ANY >trees until we find out just what when wrong. > >Thanks for any advise you can offer! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 16:01:17 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:01:17 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] patio tree, evergreen Message-ID: Two choices might be mulga acacia and Abyssinian acacia. These are about 20 feet tall with a mesquite look. They are evergreen. THey do produce bean pods, however. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: paulandjan@myexcel.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2001 22:53:46 -0700 (MST) > >1. I have a small back yard. I want a nice small tree that has the >appearamce of the mesquite tree. I can not have one that has thorns and >the roots travel a far distance and I'd prefer not to have bean pods. Any >suggestions? >Are there any small (20 foot or less) that stay green all year? >2. is there a deadline as to when rolled grass should be planted? Any >hints on using rolled grass? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 16:05:28 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:05:28 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tucson fruit trees Message-ID: Citrus in general do well in the Tucson area. Lime is frost sensitive so you need to be in one of the warmer locations (foothills thermal belt). Lemons are grown extensively. Avocado will grow in Tucson but may never produce fruit. Avoacado prefer less intense sunlight and more humidity (S. California) than we have in Tucson. Some shading from afternoon sun is preferable. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: trifan@cybertours.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 07:28:21 -0700 (MST) > >do lemon, lime and avocado trees do well in tucson? >If any do, what varieties of any are sugested for the backyard gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Apr 24 16:55:41 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 09:55:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] snails In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010424095414.00cd8c50@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 11:46 PM 4/23/01 -0700, N. Savage wrote: >I wonder if you could tell me how to kindly remove snails from my garden. >The south side of the yard has a fence so it is always shady and moist and >the snails sure like it there. They also enjoy the wet of the fountain and >the plants around it. They have cute little spiral shells, but I frown on 1. Sounds like you know where the show up. Go there in the night, gather them and throw them far away. You could make the "trap" area even more enticing by putting a board there they can gather under. 2. Cans of beer are an old standard in catching snails. They like it as much as worms like coffee grounds. :-) jk From phil.turner@amec.com Tue Apr 24 17:44:40 2001 From: phil.turner@amec.com (phil.turner@amec.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 10:44:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104241744.f3OHieu22567@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a mature Texas Ebony in my Phoenix front yard. It is producing huge quantities of seeds/nuts. The Javalina love these things and will spend hours under the tree rooting for them. Are they edible for people? It would make them easier to pick up if I knew they had a value to me, other than Javalina food. If edible, how can you use them? Thanks for any insight. Phil Turner AMEC Inc. Vice President Infrastructure, Mesa, Arizona Phone +1 480 648 5305 Fax +1 480 830 3903 phil.turner@amec.com From circuitboards@mindspring.com Tue Apr 24 20:05:21 2001 From: circuitboards@mindspring.com (circuitboards@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 13:05:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104242005.f3OK5Lu21925@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have queen palms that I Planted in soil that was purchased at a local rock place,( I was told this was top soil from a potatoe farm). The palms are not growing after 6 years and the are just surviving. I did a Ferry-Morse home soil test and came up with the following results, High PH, Low nitrogen, High phosphorus and very low potash. Any suggestions? Thank You Pat O'Connell From mdige1@worldnet.att.net Tue Apr 24 20:58:47 2001 From: mdige1@worldnet.att.net (mdige1@worldnet.att.net) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 13:58:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104242058.f3OKwlu02852@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Mediterrnean Palm that is in its 3rd growing season. It has many shoots growing from the base. The nursery person,who planted the tree, told me not to remove new growth from the base, as they will form a branch or trunk, not sure of the proper terms. I don't want too many of them growing from the base. Do I trim above ground or below? How should I shape the tree or is it recommended to remove growth from the top of tree? Are there links or books you can recommend on the proper care of Palm trees? Should I fertilize? What is proper watering frquency? Thank You Mike From thewaxs@aol.com Tue Apr 24 22:14:23 2001 From: thewaxs@aol.com (thewaxs@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 15:14:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104242214.f3OMEMu18705@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I get my jacaranda tree to bloom? It has been in the ground 5 years with a lot of growth. No bloom. What do I have to do to make it flower? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 24 23:02:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:02:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine trees wind damaged Message-ID: I suspect that you did not water your pines deep enough, pines usually do not blow over in the wind. The water should penetrate the soil after irrigation to a depth in excess of 3 feet. Another possibility is that the trees were root bound when planted and the roots continued to circle the root ball without spreading out consequently the tree would have little verticle stability. I didn't quite understand what you meant by the following comment: All 4 of the fallen trees looked the same at the bottom of the trunk. They all had a smooth outer edge with a small portion in the middle for roots. Check out this website which will provide lots of info on irrigation and tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From liv4now@hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 23:05:00 2001 From: liv4now@hotmail.com (liv4now@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 16:05:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104242305.f3ON50u29082@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live in Virginia and recently had some mulch beds edged and grass sprayed with Round-UP. Since then, both of our peach trees and one of our pear trees are dead. They started to flower and bud and then the leaves and the tips of the branches turned black. The other pear tree that we have was not near any area where the Round-UP was sprayed. Is it possible that the grass killer also killed my fruit trees? If so, is there anyway to save them? Are they dead at the roots or just the leaves that were starting to sprout? Both of the peach trees are 6 years old and the pear trees are in their second season. Thank you for taking the time to read and answer my question. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 24 23:06:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:06:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda tree with no blooms Message-ID: It is not uncommon for the Jacaranda tree to take several years before blooming. It just requires a lot of patience. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 00:22:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:22:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mediterranean Palm Message-ID: <47.a5dd677.281772e0@aol.com> Mike, I don't know of a reason why you can't remove the new growth at the base on your palm. Do not prune the top. Palms should be fertilized several times during the growing season with a special palm fertilizer. Check out this website on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 00:22:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:22:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] brown dry spots in lawn Message-ID: Manoj, Sounds as if you are watering adequately. Why not check the brown spots by inserting a screwdriver in the ground to make sure that the spots are getting plenty of water. If water is adequate you should be able to insert the screwdriver into the ground easily to 8 inches. If you have a dog, their urine can cause brown spots. Pearl scale will cause circular brown spots but you generally don't see evidence of their activity until mid summer unless the spots were there last summer. A fungus called Brown Patch usually attacks bent grass and St Augustine and may be caused by overwatering or watering at night during the cooler season. Check out this website for info on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 00:22:55 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 20:22:55 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm trees not growing Message-ID: <81.a1200d5.281772df@aol.com> Pat, Queen palms are quite fussy about what nutrients are available for them. Your soil test indicated that your soil was low in N, high in P, and low in K. This is probably the reason that the queens are not growing. Queen palms require a fertilizer that is high in N, low in P and high in K plus several micronutrients. Here in the low desert they should be fertilized monthly during the growing season with a special palm fertilizer. You could lower the pH by applying soil sulfur. Check out this website on palm care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 25 02:00:33 2001 From: j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net (j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:00:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104250200.f3P20Xu24740@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Request into or tech data sheet on thrucide or suggest link etc thank you John From j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 25 02:02:50 2001 From: j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net (j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:02:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104250202.f3P22ou24999@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Request info or tech data sheet on thrucide or suggest link etc thank you John From d.kendt@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 25 02:08:38 2001 From: d.kendt@worldnet.att.net (d.kendt@worldnet.att.net) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 19:08:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104250208.f3P28cu25571@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 old but very healthy Arizona Sweet orange trees (Arcadia area in Phoenix, trees probably over 50 years old). Each has developed rot where at some time a major branch was cut off and left a large wound which has now developed into a cavity. The core at these wounds is very soft, recessed into the tree 4 to 6 inches and sometimes contain ants or grubs. How do I treat the wounds so they don't get worse and damage or kill the trees? Do I fill in the cavity that has developed? with what/etc. Don From warcloud@pacbell.net Wed Apr 25 04:42:32 2001 From: warcloud@pacbell.net (warcloud@pacbell.net) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2001 21:42:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104250442.f3P4gVu16199@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can anyone tell me why hospital staff remove live plants from hospital patients' rooms at night? I heard it was because they reverse the process they perform in the daytime? In the daytime, or light, they take in carbon dioxide and water and sunlight to make oxygen and glucose. At night, I understand they take in oxygen and release sugar and carbon dioxide. Does anyone know precisely? THanks...celine From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 25 13:50:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 06:50:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: project References: <3AE5E1B1.13C265D0@idirect.com> Message-ID: <3AE6D61E.B38B5E13@qwest.net> I'm not sure what project you are referring to. The only thing I can think of is an old post that I answered for another student about 4 months ago. Is this what you saw? Can you be a little more specific in what you are interested in learning. Are you asking me to describe the capillary action that draws the ink up into the plant? The old post I did basically talked about the function of plant parts. I am copying it below so that you can reread it before you send me your questions. If I don't hear from you again, good luck with your project. [I hope that in sending this reply to both addresses you will receive this message!] Linda Guy Master Gardener We used to have some very good and basic material in our 4-H area, and I am trying to locate some of this for you. In the meantime, let me try to address some of the basics. There are many types of root systems: fibrous roots of grass, corn, some flowers and shrubs; enlarged stems of an Irish potato, the globular root of a beet, the taproot of a carrot or dill plant. There are even aerial roots on certain plants. These should not be confused with bulbuous plants, like garlic or daffodils, whose bulbs are actually compacted sections of the stem complete with buds and modified leaves. The roots on a bulb dangle from the bulb's base; the part you cut off from the bottom of a green onion, for example. Plant roots absorb water and dissolved nutrients from the soil and conduct this to the stem to be distributed to the plant. The wall of each root cell is a semipermeable membrane, the sap inside the cell is a fairly strong solution of water, sugar & other substances called salts [not just NaCl!], and the scientific principle in play here is osmosis. The stronger solution inside the cell attracts the weaker one in the soil across the membrane. Ask your teacher to explain this better to you. We know a whole lot less about plant roots than plant tops, since they grow underground and when we remove them from the soil they no longer are behaving as in their natural habitat. There are several kinds of water in soil. Some is held so tightly by the soil that plants can't get it. That is, the chemical bond to the soil particle is stronger than the osmosis that the root cells could generate to attract it away to the plant. Once you add a bit more water, then some is held loosely by soil particles and the plant is able to absorb this by osmosis. Lastly, if the soil is really saturated with water, the excess runs through the soil, pulled by gravity. [There is also water evaporation from the top of the soil which acts against gravity and draws water up.] If there is extra water in the soil, the roots will also act in a storage capacity for the plant. Now on to the rest of the plant. Stems carry water and dissolved nutrients, called sap once inside the plant, up and into the above ground structure. Sap is moved by a combination of scientific forces: osmosis, capillary action, transpiration and the pressure in the atmosphere. Lots of water in the soil increases the rate of osmosis because the more water in the soil, the more dilute it is compared to that in the root cell. Sap will not move up the plant through the stem tissue called xylem if there is no water coming in through the roots. The capillary action in a plant stem is like a straw standing in a pan of water. The thinner and taller the tube the higher the water will rise [again assuming there is adequate water in the soil]. As the leaves of the plant transpire or lose water to evaporation, this action is like sucking on the end of the straw. Evaporation is controlled by openings in plant leaves called stomata, in the outside cell layers. The green matter of leaves is chlorophyll. Using the energy of the sun, the cells manufacture carbohydrates or sugars from the water and dissolved nutrients that the roots absorbed, and carbon dioxide in the air. This process is photosynthesis. If you had the ability to look at the cells in a leaf you would see that the parts that are shielded from the sun do not produce the plant's food, since sunlight is necessary for this process. A by-product of the plant's producing its food supply is the oxygen that is vital for us humans. Carbon dioxide comes in and oxygen goes out through the leaves' stomata which we already talked about. The leaf will save some of the food it generates and send the rest back into the plant. Some returns to the roots where it helps the root cells to grow [this happens at the tips of the roots] and get bigger and longer to absorb more water and nutrients to send up to the leaves, in the same cycle. It is not only flowers that will change colors: if you conduct the same experiment with a stalk of celery, for example, you will see stem and leaf change color, too. I don't know exactly why, but I suspect it may have to do with the volume of water in the cell tissue which carries the dye. Celery has a very high water content. There are two very good, basic books that show all these structures. Perhaps you can look for them in the library. I'm not sure what grade you are in, and I hope I won't insult you with this selection of what might appear to be picture books! Look very carefully as one of them has incredible detail on cell biology, including mitochondria, ER, nucleus, cytoplasm, etc. [I am a massage therapist, and I had to learn all about this type of stuff as it relates to our own human bodies!] One is from the Inside Guides series, called Incredible Plants. The other is Picturepedia of Plants. Both are DK Publishing books. hillman wrote: > my e-mail is crazy_gurl_foreva2001@yahoo.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 25 14:03:30 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:03:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush References: Message-ID: <3AE6D932.6E8FFEDA@qwest.net> --------------F5F49F35CD91E844A446CD84 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of flowers on green foliage. The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs well-drained soil. If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs check out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/ I am not as familiar with these plants. Linda Guy, Master Gardener Joanne Szabo wrote: > > Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia > marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia." I had not heard of this variety > until now. I would be greatly interested in learning more about this > Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen. Are there any > more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia? > I would truly appreciate a response from you on this subject. > Thanks, Jo Szabo > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com --------------F5F49F35CD91E844A446CD84 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of flowers on green foliage.

The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs well-drained soil.

If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs check out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/  I am not as familiar with these plants.

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
 

Joanne Szabo wrote:

 
Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia."  I had not heard of this variety until now.  I would be greatly interested in learning more about this Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen.  Are there any more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia?  I would truly appreciate a response from you on this subject. 
Thanks, Jo Szabo 

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--------------F5F49F35CD91E844A446CD84-- From molinas@aol.com Wed Apr 25 14:51:47 2001 From: molinas@aol.com (molinas@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 07:51:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104251451.f3PEplu14102@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a queen palm that I believe has manganese deficiency. I saw and ad in the paper of an arborist who treats it for 40 dollars per tree. The fronds are pale green, stunted and frizzy. We used to put bordeaux fungicide on them. What do you recommend? From pamela@u.arizona.edu Wed Apr 25 16:19:40 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 09:19:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush References: <3AE6D932.6E8FFEDA@qwest.net> Message-ID: <003301c0cda3$89fa00c0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C0CD68.DB6201A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Just thought I would add a comment about the Woolly Butterfly Bush. I = have one in my desert landscaping. After the first year this plant has = survived with little supplemental watering---at most I might give it a = soak once during the summer. The foliage is a pretty grey-green. The = orange flowers, when crushed, give off a nice mint smell. =20 Pamela ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Linda Guy=20 To: Joanne Szabo=20 Cc: Arid_gardener=20 Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:03 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area = nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the = others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange = flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink = sprays of flowers on green foliage.=20 The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan = desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs = well-drained soil.=20 If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs = check out the High Country Gardens catalog at = http://www.highcountrygardens.com/ I am not as familiar with these = plants.=20 Linda Guy,=20 Master Gardener=20 =20 Joanne Szabo wrote:=20 =20 Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia = marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia." I had not heard of this variety = until now. I would be greatly interested in learning more about this = Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen. Are there any more = Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia? I would = truly appreciate a response from you on this subject. =20 Thanks, Jo Szabo =20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C0CD68.DB6201A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Just thought I would add a comment about the = Woolly=20 Butterfly Bush.  I have one in my desert landscaping.  After = the first=20 year this plant has survived with little supplemental watering---at most = I might=20 give it a soak once during the summer.  The foliage is a pretty=20 grey-green.  The orange flowers, when crushed, give off a nice mint = smell. 
 
Pamela
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Linda = Guy=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 = 7:03=20 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = Buddelia -=20 Butterfly Bush

Many of these buddleia are commonly available in = Phoenix area=20 nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the = others=20 which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers = on=20 silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of = flowers=20 on green foliage.=20

The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan = desert].=20 It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs = well-drained=20 soil.=20

If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs = check=20 out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens= .com/ =20 I am not as familiar with these plants.=20

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
 =20

Joanne Szabo wrote:=20


Dear Linda Guy, I read with = interest your=20 comment about the Buddelia marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia."  = I had=20 not heard of this variety until now.  I would be greatly = interested in=20 learning more about this Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a=20 specimen.  Are there any more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B.=20 weyeranii and B. marrubifolia?  I would truly appreciate a = response=20 from you on this subject. 
Thanks, Jo Szabo =20

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
=
------=_NextPart_000_002E_01C0CD68.DB6201A0-- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Wed Apr 25 16:17:13 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:17:13 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush References: <3AE6D932.6E8FFEDA@qwest.net> <003301c0cda3$89fa00c0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AE6F889.D73C6A60@earthlink.net> This may be an extremely rare occurrence, but I had a nice wooly butterfly bush for a while -- I loved it, but was very allergic to it. I'm not talking pollen allergies, but contact allergies. If it brushed up against my arm, for instance, I'd be itching all day!

Barbara

Pamela Tremain Koch wrote:

Just thought I would add a comment about the Woolly Butterfly Bush.  I have one in my desert landscaping.  After the first year this plant has survived with little supplemental watering---at most I might give it a soak once during the summer.  The foliage is a pretty grey-green.  The orange flowers, when crushed, give off a nice mint smell. Pamela
----- Original Message -----
From: Linda Guy
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:03 AM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush
 Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of flowers on green foliage.

The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs well-drained soil.

If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs check out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/  I am not as familiar with these plants.

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener
 

Joanne Szabo wrote:

 
Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia."  I had not heard of this variety until now.  I would be greatly interested in learning more about this Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen.  Are there any more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia?  I would truly appreciate a response from you on this subject.
Thanks, Jo Szabo

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From bloom@math.la.asu.edu Wed Apr 25 17:19:26 2001 From: bloom@math.la.asu.edu (bloom@math.la.asu.edu) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:19:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104251719.f3PHJQu13141@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 beautiful tomato plants growing in the bed just outside my back door. My problem? My dogs eat the tomatos right off the vine as soon as they are ripe!! This isn't a hazard to them, but it is also not what I intended when I planted the tomatos. Is there anything I can do short of fencing in the bed (not an option at this time. Thanks!! Apple Bloom Paradise Valley, AZ From edipx@earthlink.net Wed Apr 25 17:38:09 2001 From: edipx@earthlink.net (edipx@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 10:38:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104251738.f3PHc8u17327@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have scoured the Maricopa Conty Agriculture links for information on watering trees and gardens in the valley and can find nothing. I am particulary interested in orange trees. Thank you, Ed Parker From blplcf@aol.com Wed Apr 25 20:42:38 2001 From: blplcf@aol.com (blplcf@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:42:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104252042.f3PKgcu26277@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My zucchini plants are big and healthy, but the squash do not develop. They fall off when they are about 2 inches long. What to I need in my soil. Thank you From scottdanielgardner@yahoo.com Wed Apr 25 20:44:45 2001 From: scottdanielgardner@yahoo.com (scottdanielgardner@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:44:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104252044.f3PKiiu26702@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am wanting to plant a Mango tree and was wondering if it would servive here and where I could find one. I saw that the extension service (on 44th and broadway) was trying to grow one a couple years ago. Any info would help as I am trying to do landscaping on my home. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Apr 25 23:01:29 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 23:01:29 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Zucchini fruit not forming Message-ID: Perhaps the zucchini flowers are not being pollinated. The zucchini will begin to develop, then wither and fall off if they have not been pollinated. Do you notice bees around the flowers? Bees are very efficient pollinators (a good reason to avoid pesticides in the vegetable garden - pesticides kill the good guys along with the bad guys). If no bees, you may need to hand-pollinate the flowers. The famale flowers already have the little squash visible behind the flower. The male flowers have just a regular stalk connecting the flower to the plant. In the early morning, remove a male flower and swish it around inside the female flowers. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: blplcf@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 13:42:38 -0700 (MST) > >My zucchini plants are big and healthy, but the squash do not develop. >They fall off when they are about 2 inches long. What to I need in my >soil. Thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Apr 25 23:05:59 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:05:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush References: <3AE6D932.6E8FFEDA@qwest.net> <003301c0cda3$89fa00c0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> <3AE6F889.D73C6A60@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3AE75856.7335E43@qwest.net> Believe it or not, most of my plants do the same to me. I am absolutely stunned at this development [over the last two years or so], since I've gardened my whole life. I just grin and bear it! Can't imagine not gardening. Linda Barbara Bigham wrote: > This may be an extremely rare occurrence, but I had a nice wooly butterfly bush for a while -- I loved it, but was very allergic to it. I'm not talking pollen allergies, but contact allergies. If it brushed up against my arm, for instance, I'd be itching all day! > > Barbara > > Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > > > Just thought I would add a comment about the Woolly Butterfly Bush. I have one in my desert landscaping. After the first year this plant has survived with little supplemental watering---at most I might give it a soak once during the summer. The foliage is a pretty grey-green. The orange flowers, when crushed, give off a nice mint smell. Pamela > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Linda Guy > > To: Joanne Szabo > > Cc: Arid_gardener > > Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:03 AM > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush > > Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of flowers on green foliage. > > > > The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs well-drained soil. > > > > If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs check out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/ I am not as familiar with these plants. > > > > Linda Guy, > > Master Gardener > > > > > > Joanne Szabo wrote: > > > > > > > > Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia." I had not heard of this variety until now. I would be greatly interested in learning more about this Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen. Are there any more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia? I would truly appreciate a response from you on this subject. > > > Thanks, Jo Szabo > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 23:27:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:27:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palms with manganese difficiency Message-ID: The symptoms you describe on your queen palms do sound like a manganese difficiency and if the difficiency is very bad it is not a do it yourself project. I would recommend a certified arborist for the job. Bordeau is used to treat bud rot in palms, however Univ. of Arizona pathology dept. recently advised that they had had only two cases of bud rot reported in several years, so it is not very prevalent. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 23:27:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:27:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange trees with rotted cavity Message-ID: <20.15815ca4.2818b770@aol.com> Don, the rotted cavity in your orange tree should not be filled with any material. Filling the cavity would only accelerate the rotting process. If the tree is quite valuble to you I would suggest that you have a certified arborist give you an opinion. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 23:27:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:27:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, watering Message-ID: Ed, These links will provide you with what you are looking for: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 25 23:27:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:27:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit trees dying Message-ID: <66.e580a40.2818b774@aol.com> Roundup is a herbicide that will kill most plants. If the Roundup spray drifted on to the leaves of the fruit trees it could have killed the trees. As for the tree that was not near where you sprayed, I don't have an answer. You may have something attacking your trees in Virginia that we don't have in Arizona. I suggest calling your county Cooperative Extension, they will be listed under county government and should be more familiar about your loca;l conditions than I. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Tootsie520@aol.com Wed Apr 25 23:33:02 2001 From: Tootsie520@aol.com (Tootsie520@aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:33:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104252333.f3PNX2u29212@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a peach tree out at the 3 point area of tucson. The tree has not produce any flowers or leaves. It looks like it's in dormancy. What do I do for it? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 26 00:07:28 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 00:07:28 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, no leaves Message-ID: The peach tree should have produced leaves and blossoms by now. Check that the tree is still alive -- use a knife to scape a bit of bark off. You should see green tissue just under the bark. If the tree is alive, shade it to prevent sunburn on the trunk. Begin a regular water routine and be certain the water is penetrating to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. Leaves should begin appearing in a week or so. Please call the Tucson Extension Office 626-5161 and ask to speak to a Master Gardener (8:30 to 4:30, Monday through Friday). We can get more information from you to find out what is happening with your tree. If you come by our office at 4210 N. Campbell you can visit our peach orchard. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Tootsie520@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 16:33:02 -0700 (MST) > >I have a peach tree out at the 3 point area of tucson. >The tree has not produce any flowers or leaves. It looks like it's in >dormancy. >What do I do for it? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From pamela@U.Arizona.EDU Thu Apr 26 00:23:15 2001 From: pamela@U.Arizona.EDU (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 17:23:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] cat's claw vine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: A while back I asked about transplanting cat's claw vine. I thought I would go ahead and pass on my experience. The vine does transplant quite well as long as you get a good portion of the tuberous root. The one I dug up and moved is leafing out and looking healthy. The ones I left in are doing well too--even covered with an extra two feet of dirt as we put some raised beds in over them. A tough plant! Pamela ****** From cpetty1963@yahoo.com Thu Apr 26 02:43:05 2001 From: cpetty1963@yahoo.com (Craig Petty) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:43:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Balance of Nature References: <200104251625.f3PGP1u01663@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <001f01c0cdfa$9f050bc0$5d47b118@phnx3.az.home.com> One of the things I enjoy about gardening is watching the ecosystem in action. As several have noted, aphids and such have been horrendous around Phoenix this year. My garden was no exception. However, I now have quite large numbers of green lacewings both in and around my garden. Its a lovely sight (they eat aphids and such). _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From ksdean@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 26 02:53:55 2001 From: ksdean@worldnet.att.net (ksdean@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 19:53:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104260253.f3Q2rtu23329@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help!! My tomato plants look healthy, have lots of tomatoes on them but the leaves in the middle of the plants are beginning to turn brown. They are planted on the east side of our yard. We are watering every day on a drip system. Thank you, From bjbigham@earthlink.net Thu Apr 26 03:55:01 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (Barbara Bigham) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2001 21:55:01 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Buddelia - Butterfly Bush References: <3AE6D932.6E8FFEDA@qwest.net> <003301c0cda3$89fa00c0$215dc480@comm.arizona.edu> <3AE6F889.D73C6A60@earthlink.net> <3AE75856.7335E43@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AE79C14.7875F305@earthlink.net> I agree ... I don't care how badly I itch or sneeze or burn, I'm out there gardening! Barbara Linda Guy wrote: > Believe it or not, most of my plants do the same to me. I am absolutely stunned at this development [over the last two years or so], since I've gardened my whole life. I just grin and bear it! Can't imagine not gardening. > > Linda > > Barbara Bigham wrote: > > > This may be an extremely rare occurrence, but I had a nice wooly butterfly bush for a while -- I loved it, but was very allergic to it. I'm not talking pollen allergies, but contact allergies. If it brushed up against my arm, for instance, I'd be itching all day! > > > > Barbara > > > > Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > > > > > Just thought I would add a comment about the Woolly Butterfly Bush. I have one in my desert landscaping. After the first year this plant has survived with little supplemental watering---at most I might give it a soak once during the summer. The foliage is a pretty grey-green. The orange flowers, when crushed, give off a nice mint smell. Pamela > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Linda Guy > > > To: Joanne Szabo > > > Cc: Arid_gardener > > > Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2001 7:03 AM > > > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddelia - Butterfly Bush > > > Many of these buddleia are commonly available in Phoenix area nurseries. The wooly butterfly bush is decidedly different from the others which resemble lilacs more. The wooly has marble sized orange flowers on silver green foliage. The others are largely purple and pink sprays of flowers on green foliage. > > > > > > The wooly is a native from sw Texas and northern Mexico [Chihuahan desert]. It likes plenty of sun, is drought and cold tolerant, and needs well-drained soil. > > > > > > If you want to see varieties of the buddleias that resemble lilacs check out the High Country Gardens catalog at http://www.highcountrygardens.com/ I am not as familiar with these plants. > > > > > > Linda Guy, > > > Master Gardener > > > > > > > > > Joanne Szabo wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Dear Linda Guy, I read with interest your comment about the Buddelia marrubifolia, the "wooly Buddelia." I had not heard of this variety until now. I would be greatly interested in learning more about this Buddelia, and perhaps where I could find a specimen. Are there any more Buddelias besides B. davidii, B. weyeranii and B. marrubifolia? I would truly appreciate a response from you on this subject. > > > > Thanks, Jo Szabo > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kck50@juno.com Thu Apr 26 14:02:14 2001 From: kck50@juno.com (kck50@juno.com) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 07:02:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104261402.f3QE2Eu03954@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I prevent crabapples from developing on a crabapple tree? I was told of a "home remedy spray" and don't remember the ingredients. From jmausphx@worldnet.att.net Thu Apr 26 19:28:33 2001 From: jmausphx@worldnet.att.net (jmausphx@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 12:28:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104261928.f3QJSXu04892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> RE: Storm damage Satuday's storm partially uprooted an African Sumac. Has anyone had experience with severely heading these and propping them back up. E.g. you could probably do this with an oleander. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Apr 26 22:31:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 18:31:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] African Sumac uprooted by wind Message-ID: <30.1405c4a3.2819fbdc@aol.com> Check to see if theAfrican Sumac is root bound, that is the roots would be completely encircling the original root ball. If that is the case then you might as well remove the tree and start over. If that is not the case then you could try proping it up and remove some of the top. Sumacs develop a very dense crown if not thinned periodically and can present a lot of wind resistance. I would not suggest heading at all, thinning would be a much better approach. Good pruning practice dictates that a tree should not have more than 25% removed in one year and already the tree is in shock from being up rooted. After righting the tree be sure to deep water it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 00:45:18 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 00:45:18 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, no leaves Message-ID: Another question: What variety of peach tree do you have? The symptoms you describe could be the seen if the peach variety you have requires more chilling than it received last winter. (Sorry. I had forgotten that when I first answered your question). You can use burlap to wrap tree trunks. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Tootsie520@aol.com >To: >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, no leaves >Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:51:02 EDT > >Is there something that I could use to wrap the trunk with to shade it. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From rlcolbs@uswest.net Fri Apr 27 02:50:33 2001 From: rlcolbs@uswest.net (rlcolbs@uswest.net) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:50:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104270250.f3R2oXu11670@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our mature saguaro cactus appears to have a disease or ailment. The source site is next to a bird hole. It has an order and is oozing a liquid - much like rotting. Is there any solution to stopping it's progress? From rwiii1@home.com Fri Apr 27 09:28:09 2001 From: rwiii1@home.com (rwiii1@home.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 02:28:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104270928.f3R9S8u06428@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm interested in a lawn watering system that doesn't spray water above ground but supplies water directly to the roots. I have heard of such a system but can't find any info on it. Do you know where I can get info on designing such a system? Thankyou. From bwbice@earthlink.net Fri Apr 27 13:40:49 2001 From: bwbice@earthlink.net (bwbice@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 06:40:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104271340.f3RDenu19077@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a blue leaf wattle that we planted a couple of months ago. After the storm last Saturday, we noticed that it is drooping at the top of the tree (it may have been drooping prior to that but we didn't notice) It is on a drip with 3 emitters around the drip line. It is watered once a week for 30 minutes. We used a houseplant moisture meter that indicated it was wet around the root ball. Can you shed any light on the droop? Thank you. From ucadm.betty@state.ut.us Fri Apr 27 14:45:50 2001 From: ucadm.betty@state.ut.us (Betty Dean) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:45:50 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] HELP! Message-ID: HELP! We got the recipe for the home-made fly trap and put it in our newsletter but accidentally left out the "bait" recipe. Do you remember what it was? Thanks! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 14:49:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:49:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro Message-ID: information from an earlier posting: >Act fast and your saguaro should recover nicely. This is a problem when we >have alot of rainy weather. Good luck! complete information at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Linda Guy, MG >From: rlcolbs@uswest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 19:50:33 -0700 (MST) > >Our mature saguaro cactus appears to have a disease or ailment. The source >site is next to a bird hole. It has an order and is oozing a liquid - much >like rotting. Is there any solution to stopping it's progress? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 14:56:55 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:56:55 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, no leaves Message-ID: Sounds like it might be a peach variety that is grown in colder climates than we have in Tucson. Why don't you try planting a peach variety with low chill requirements such as Desertgold or Flordaprince or Babcock. These should give you better results. (Call 626-5161 for more info on varieties). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Tootsie520@aol.com >To: >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Peach Tree, no leaves >Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 09:35:34 EDT > >I really don't know the variety of peach tree. A neighbor started them from >seed of a peach that she bought at the grocer store. The other peach tree >that I have has produce flowers,leaves and fruit but only on one side of >the tree. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From t2thraen@aol.com Fri Apr 27 15:32:33 2001 From: t2thraen@aol.com (t2thraen@aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:32:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104271532.f3RFWXu03608@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i was told that the soil in az is very acidic and this makes gardening difficult??i am using composted horse manure along with my homemade worm castings what else can help with acid soil? and what do i need to be on the lookout for? i have cantalope/watermelon along with much more and was told that the melons won't do well? so far they look good thanks alot theresa ps thaks for your speedy reply on the caterpillars the Bt is working!!! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 27 15:35:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:35:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree, newly planted has wilting leaves Message-ID: <66.e67aa29.281aebd5@aol.com> The root ball on a newly planted tree will dry out much faster than the surounding clay soil. It is important to leave at least one dripper over the root ball until the roots have had a chance to penetrate the surounding soil ( three or four months ) then the dripper can be moved to the drip line. Since we have had some recent hot weather I suspect that you are not giving the tree enough water. I always give newly planted trees especially if they are 24 inch boxes one to two hours of run time with three 2 gallon drippers. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Apr 27 15:50:32 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:50:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed cloth? References: <200104271532.f3RFWXu03608@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE99548.F8113797@AuroraNow.org> Does anyone here have experience using weed cloth under landscaping stone (i.e., decomposed granite?). We're finally ready to order the stones and have been considering ways of keeping the weeds down. I used the cloth in my gardens in MI and loved it because it was easy to cut through to add new plants, let the moisture in but didn't let the weeds come up. I'm just trying to determine why, when I've asked landscapers and nurseries, I get blank stares. Is there a reason for *not* using it in our desert gardens? Sherryl Stalinski From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Apr 27 15:54:16 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:54:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] alkaline soil References: <200104271532.f3RFWXu03608@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE99628.46D19101@AuroraNow.org> Our soil here tends to be on the alkaline side (not acidic). Amending the soil with compost & manure does help tremendously. You may also want to remember to deep soak your vegetables/plants once or twice a year to leach out the extra salts left by our native soil. Sherryl (not a Master Gardener) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 15:57:14 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:57:14 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soils Message-ID: Arizona soils are typically alkaline (high pH) with low organic matter. These two factors can make vegetable gardening a challenge in Arizona. Composted manures and worm castings are good additions to add organic material and help lower the alkalinity. Melons usually do well here. Your local Extension Office will have brochures to help, including "Ten Steps to a Successful Vegetable Garden". the book, "Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate" by Cathy Cromell, Linda Guy and Lucy Bradley is an excellent introduction. It is available at: The book is available at bookstores (ISBN 0-9651987-2-3). It can also be purchased at the Maricopa County Extension Office, the three Master Gardener satellite offices , or through the mail. Cost is $7.95, plus $2.00 shipping. Make checks payable to University of Arizona and mail to Arizona Master Gardener Press, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Box 192, Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: t2thraen@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:32:33 -0700 (MST) > >i was told that the soil in az is very acidic and this makes gardening >difficult??i am using composted horse manure along with my homemade worm >castings what else can help with acid soil? and what do i need to be on the >lookout for? i have cantalope/watermelon along with much more and was told >that the melons won't do well? so far they look good thanks alot theresa > ps thaks for your speedy reply on the caterpillars >the Bt is working!!! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Apr 27 15:59:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:59:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Underground Irrigation for turf Message-ID: <5f.145bcde5.281af155@aol.com> Toro makes an underground irrigation system for watering turf in which the emitters are built internally within a 1/2 inch poly tube and spaced on one to two feet centers. The tubing is buried several inches underground. I installed the system in a playground that worked well because the children did not have to contend with wet grass or sprinklers. The gophers did not have much respect for the tubing, and if the tubing was in their way they just chewed through it. I believe that Horizon Irrigation sells the Toro line in the Phoenix area and they have several stores. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 18:18:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:18:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed cloth? Message-ID: Sherryl, I don't have direct experience with weed cloth. I have heard that the weed cloth can capture liitle pockets of dirt and allow weed seeds to sprout. Once the weed roots grow through the weed cloth the weeds are very difficult to remove. I've heard it is much easier to remove weeds from bare gravel/dg just by pulling or hoeing (hula hoe works great on little weeds in gravel/dg.) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed cloth? >Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 08:50:32 -0700 > >Does anyone here have experience using weed cloth under landscaping >stone (i.e., decomposed granite?). We're finally ready to order the >stones and have been considering ways of keeping the weeds down. I used >the cloth in my gardens in MI and loved it because it was easy to cut >through to add new plants, let the moisture in but didn't let the weeds >come up. > >I'm just trying to determine why, when I've asked landscapers and >nurseries, I get blank stares. Is there a reason for *not* using it in >our desert gardens? > >Sherryl Stalinski >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From rcdemark@aol.com Fri Apr 27 18:22:38 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 11:22:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104271822.f3RIMcu07289@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My Lawn Mower needs replaced. I need a self propeled one. I have Bermuda Grass in the summer and Rye in the winter. I have approximately 1000 sq ft in 3 small areas. What do you recommend? Whould I be better off with a reel mower? I have been using a mulching mower. From wmscanlon@email.msn.com Fri Apr 27 20:09:42 2001 From: wmscanlon@email.msn.com (wmscanlon@email.msn.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:09:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104272009.f3RK9gu28052@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I want to lay down some sod. Is there any thing I should do to the ground first? From Holsinger2000@yahoo.com Fri Apr 27 21:31:49 2001 From: Holsinger2000@yahoo.com (Holsinger2000@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 14:31:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104272131.f3RLVnu11861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Thompson seedless grapevine to plant. Where is the best location? (n,s,e,w) Also, I have a south wall in my front yard which has two very large shade trees in front of it. There is shade on the wall most of the day. I would like to plant some vines to cover the plain wall. Can you recommend a vine that stays green all year, is not messy, and has flowers? I really like the Alice du Pont Mandevilla vine. Is this one I can plant? I think this is not a vine for Arizona, but for southern california instead. Why do they sell them here? Do they really do well in Phoenix? I have tried one once before, but it died. Thanks for any info you can send. Kim From southpawaz@home.com Fri Apr 27 22:17:03 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:17:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104271822.f3RIMcu07289@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE9EFDF.C643A509@home.com> rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > > My Lawn Mower needs replaced. I need a self propeled one. I have Bermuda Grass in the summer and Rye in the winter. I have approximately 1000 sq ft in 3 small areas. What do you recommend? Whould I be better off with a reel mower? I have been using a mulching mower. I looked into buying one of these last year when we bought our house. Instead we decided to replace the grass with a cactus/succulent garden, but that's besides the point. Here is the web site of a company that makes push mowers: http://www.reelin.com which includes information on their products and where to get them. -- Bobby Alexander (golf course landscape foreman) southpawaz@home.com From southpawaz@home.com Fri Apr 27 22:19:15 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 15:19:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104271822.f3RIMcu07289@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AE9F062.45C6631B@home.com> rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > > My Lawn Mower needs replaced. I need a self propeled one. I have Bermuda Grass in the summer and Rye in the winter. I have approximately 1000 sq ft in 3 small areas. What do you recommend? Whould I be better off with a reel mower? I have been using a mulching mower. Oops, sorry about that reply, missed the "self propelled" part of the question on first reading. Been a long day. -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 22:46:40 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 22:46:40 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turfgrass, soil preparation Message-ID: Soil preparation is critical to the success of your sod. Here is some information from the Master Gardener manual: Soil quality and preparation are important steps in planting a new lawn. Begin by removing the existing vegetation. Use a non-selective herbicide like glyphosphate (Round-Up) to kill the weeds that are growing. The weeds must not be moisture stressed when they are sprayed. Let Round-Up dry on leaves for 12 hours. Dig into the soil and get a feel for the soil particles. Is it mostly sandy, loamy, or very fine--clay like. Sandy soils drain quickly, and have good root growth. The clay soils tend to drain poorly and become compacted. Soils which have 50-60% sand and the rest smaller particles are best for a lawn. It's much easier to add fine soils to coarse sandy-soils, than to add large amounts of sand to dense clay soils. Examine the soil and overall suitability of the site. Is the soil heavy (clay) or light(sandy)? Does the soil contain gravel or large stones on the surface, or just below the soil? Were any items "dumped" on the site such as chemicals, gas, oil, construction materials, cement or gravel? If so, these should be removed. A soil test should be done in order to add proper fertilizer types and amounts. The area should be roto-tilled if the soil is compacted. Most soils can be temporarily modified for planting by adding organic matter such as plant parts, shredded bark, horse or cattle manure. To properly add organic matter, do the following: 1.Wet the soil and let it drain 2 days. 2.Roto-till the soil as deep as possible. 3.Wet the soil again and let it drain 2 days. 4.Roto-till again. 5.Add the organic matter on top of the tilled soil. 6.Roto-till again as deep as possible. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/ Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: wmscanlon@email.msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 13:09:42 -0700 (MST) > >I want to lay down some sod. Is there any thing I should do to the ground >first? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From daniellemsb@home.com Sat Apr 28 03:38:33 2001 From: daniellemsb@home.com (daniellemsb@home.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 20:38:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104280338.f3S3cXu26425@Ag.Arizona.Edu> why do my immature fruits drop off the tree? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 16:22:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 09:22:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: project] Message-ID: <3AEAEE4F.21699239@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------29BB809252991E7F2AED3898 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know we get tired answering what seem to be the same questions week after week. This was written to me by an 11-year old whom I assisted with a science project....but I know that it could have been written to any of you stalwarts who continue to patiently reply to our querents. This is why we do what we do.... Linda P.S. Hey Lucy, save this for the next time we need to go to the County for support! --------------29BB809252991E7F2AED3898 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 95259 invoked by uid 0); 27 Apr 2001 00:34:07 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 27 Apr 2001 00:34:07 -0000 Received: (qmail 12958 invoked by uid 0); 27 Apr 2001 00:34:06 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO web12807.mail.yahoo.com) (216.136.174.42) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 27 Apr 2001 00:34:06 -0000 Received: from [216.154.0.132] by web12807.mail.yahoo.com; Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:34:06 PDT Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2001 17:34:06 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <20010427003406.86220.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> From: "\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ \\\\\\\\\\\\\\" To: "Linda Guy" Subject: Re: project In-Reply-To: <3AE6D61E.B38B5E13@qwest.net> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 o my god thank u SOOO much i got an A on science i hope u have a great life and all the luck for the future! and for my future science projects ill know who to go to first! thank u so much __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ --------------29BB809252991E7F2AED3898-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 16:27:36 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 09:27:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed CLoth References: <200104271532.f3RFWXu03608@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AE99628.46D19101@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AEAEF78.42AFEA5@qwest.net> I agree with Linda. There is always organic material in my gravel mulch from the leguminous trees at the very least. It sprouts an amazing array of volunteers and I think it would be harder to get rid of them if there was weed cloth. I think the better application is in a vegetable garden between rows or under a path. These usually change twice a year when I presume you pull it up as you replant for the next season. Linda From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Apr 28 20:51:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 16:51:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fruit drop Message-ID: Fruit drop is natures way of ridding the fruit tree of fruit the tree cannot handle. Fruit drop is also caused by a stress condition on the tree such as inadequate irrigation, over fertilization or an improper chemical application as well as other things. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From rocknk@mindspring.com Sat Apr 28 21:03:24 2001 From: rocknk@mindspring.com (rocknk@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:03:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104282103.f3SL3Ou10283@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live on horse property& there is a weed that grows straight up v-mesh fence. Mounds at the top, smells like onion, gets fuzzy flowers then seed pods. Very strong vine type. What is it? How to kill it? Thanks From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Apr 28 23:05:16 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 19:05:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Olive tree care Message-ID: <23.ada3cf3.281ca6ac@aol.com> Andrea, You didn't say where you live but if you live in the low desert of Arizona, summer time watering of your olive trees should not be more often than once a week. They must however be deep watered to a depth of three feet. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html I would suggest that you contact a Certified Arborist for a diagnosis and for pruning your trees. You will find a list of certified arborists at: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 23:23:04 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 16:23:04 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Composting] Message-ID: <3AEB50D8.451ABF05@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------82681A304E5F5EEB24A31C57 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Here's Carol's post. --------------82681A304E5F5EEB24A31C57 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 52625 invoked by uid 0); 19 Apr 2001 05:23:15 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Apr 2001 05:23:15 -0000 Received: (qmail 31343 invoked by uid 0); 19 Apr 2001 05:23:13 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO sloth.goodnet.com) (207.98.129.2) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 19 Apr 2001 05:23:13 -0000 Received: from oemcomputer (d3-15.pay.goodnet.com [207.98.131.143]) by sloth.goodnet.com (8.10.2/8.10.2) with SMTP id f3J5NBC28928; Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:23:11 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2001 22:09:26 -0700 Message-ID: From: "Carol Lydic" To: "Linda Guy" , "K&V Countryman" Cc: "Arid_gardener" Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Composting MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 In-Reply-To: <3ADE259C.708B55C6@qwest.net> X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 A "flies" suggestion from Gila County: A composter friend gave us this tip and we've found it works wonders. Take an empty gallon milk jug or a large juice container (plastic-56 oz or larger). Drill several holes in the wall about 3 inches up from the bottom. Put approx 1 cup of milk (sweet or sour) and part of a banana peel (in any condition). Suspend from a tree or something close to the compost pile. This concoction will ferment and it's like Chanel #5 to flies. They'll enter the container thru the holes (about 1/4 " in diameter), then cannot find their way back out. These seem to lure only flies, so your "friendlies" are safe. We've found they're effective around horse pens as well. People will ask you what the ugly jar is. Tell them it's decoration... P.S. They will tend to dry out after a few months; I just add water. Good luck! -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 4:39 PM To: K&V Countryman Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting I tolerate the roaches because [1] they provide some level of compost 'turning' at the minute level and [2] they are in the compost and not in my house. This is purely anecdotal, but most of our home's roach problems [I live in irrigated Arcadia where most of the yards are lush and well watered] disappeared when I started a substantial compost operation in the far corner of the backyard. I often have flies when there is a lot of fruit/produce waste exposed on the top of my pile. I counter this by layering over with lawn clippings that I save for this purpose in a separate container. Your pile's smell means that it lacks air and needs to be turned; also possibly that it is overwatered. Have you ever opened a bag of grass clippings that sat in an alley until the quarterly pick-up? Dirty diapers........ There is a great trouble shooting table in the MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/compost.html Linda Guy, MG K&V Countryman wrote: > I have a problem with flies (thousands of them!) in my compost bins especially when I add grass cuttings to it. The grass also gives it an unpleasant odor. I've also had a healthy crop of roaches at times. Got any great solutions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------82681A304E5F5EEB24A31C57-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 23:25:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 16:25:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Reaching Terry References: <200104201826.f3KIQPl01795@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB5158.A79F92A3@qwest.net> The Maricopa County Cooperative Extension phone number is (602) 470-8086. Griffithbw@aol.com wrote: > I need help to save a beautiful Australian bottle tree. Terry Mikel helped our condo complex two years ago regarding pruning the treets and I would like his (or someone he recommends) to help again. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 23:35:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 16:35:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hospital Plants References: <200104250442.f3P4gVu16199@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB53C1.B62FCFA8@qwest.net> To the best of my knowledge, the plants' process of producing oxygen is dependent upon light. I didn't believe it reversed, least I don't remember learning that. Why don't you ask the hospital staff why they are doing so, and, if the reason has no scientific basis, perhaps we can assist you with some citations/backup material. warcloud@pacbell.net wrote: > Can anyone tell me why hospital staff remove live plants from hospital patients' rooms at night? > I heard it was because they reverse the process they perform in the daytime? In the daytime, or light, they take in carbon dioxide and water and sunlight to make oxygen and glucose. At night, I understand they take in oxygen and release sugar and carbon dioxide. > Does anyone know precisely? THanks...celine > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Apr 28 23:38:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 16:38:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fact Sheet on Thrucide References: <200104250200.f3P20Xu24740@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB5468.B16A2C83@qwest.net> Because the support the commercial ag community, and have a lot more information than that which we relay to the general public, can I suggest you call the Maricopa County Cooperative Extensison office with your request? (602) 470-8086 Linda j.dannaniii@worldnet.att.net wrote: > Request into or tech data sheet on thrucide > or suggest link etc thank you John > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DPFw16@aol.com Sun Apr 29 00:20:02 2001 From: DPFw16@aol.com (DPFw16@aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 17:20:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104290020.f3T0K2u25674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am wondering whether too much or too little of a fertilizer can hurt a plant. If it does hurt a plant, then does it inhibit growth? How exactly does it hurt a plant (if it hurts a plant, that is)? Thank you. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 00:24:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 17:24:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104290020.f3T0K2u25674@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB5F23.8327F159@qwest.net> The plant will show signs of 'burning', that is chemical burns, from excess fertilizer taken up thru the roots. The usual remedy is to water very heartily to flush these chemical salts out of the root zone. DPFw16@aol.com wrote: > I am wondering whether too much or too little of a fertilizer can hurt a plant. If it does hurt a plant, then does it inhibit growth? How exactly does it hurt a plant (if it hurts a plant, that is)? Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 03:37:43 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:37:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lawn Mowers References: <200104271822.f3RIMcu07289@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB8C87.E85CF387@qwest.net> The following page in the Master Gardener Manual will give you information reel and rotary-type mowers. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/renovating.html#mowing This section on Lawns contains the recommended height for mowing different types of grasses. Sue Bass Master Gardener rcdemark@aol.com wrote: > My Lawn Mower needs replaced. I need a self propeled one. I have Bermuda Grass in the summer and Rye in the winter. I have approximately 1000 sq ft in 3 small areas. What do you recommend? Whould I be better off with a reel mower? I have been using a mulching mower. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 03:39:53 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:39:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preparation for Planting Turf References: <200104272009.f3RK9gu28052@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB8D09.7280DCFE@qwest.net> The following section of the Master Gardener Manual will provide you with information on preparing the ground for sod. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Sue Bass Master Gardener wmscanlon@email.msn.com wrote: > I want to lay down some sod. Is there any thing I should do to the ground first? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 03:46:19 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 20:46:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mango References: <200104252044.f3PKiiu26702@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEB8E8B.C3DD013D@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to the Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers for information on growing a mango in the Phoenix area. Their web page is: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm It contains information on how to contact them. Sue Bass Master Gardener scottdanielgardner@yahoo.com wrote: > I am wanting to plant a Mango tree and was wondering if it would servive here and where I could find one. I saw that the extension service (on 44th and broadway) was trying to grow one a couple years ago. Any info would help as I am trying to do landscaping on my home. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jjrvsmith@home.com Sun Apr 29 13:55:25 2001 From: jjrvsmith@home.com (jjrvsmith@home.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 06:55:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104291355.f3TDtPu27167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My apricot tree is 5 years old and has been healthy and growing until this year. It lost all its leaves in the fall/winter but never made any new leaves this spring and looks dead. We cut a branch which has no green in the stick. is the tree dead or just still dormant? what should we do? Thank you From outridge@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 16:00:38 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 09:00:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis in Grapefruit? Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010429084458.00a2c310@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> Hello, I'm new to the list, and am so relieved to have found you on the web! I could really use some advice and perspective on a stressed tree. I have a grapefruit tree which is probably 20 years old or more, with about a 20-25 foot canopy and some serious health issues. When we moved here 5 years ago the tree was unwatered and suffering. We fertilized, irrigated, and it responded beautifully, with large fruit and healthy leaves. Then, whitefly and aphids started showing up every year, but tree was okay. Last year, it got what the arborer said were borer beetles. The trunk was treated and they seemed to go away -- at least the woodpeckers stopped trying to dig through the tree. However, the tree seemed shocky, with terribly small fruit and yellowed leaves (with darker veins), and was still working through that this spring. I added some chelated iron to its diet but the arborer told me to wait on fertilizer because it had just come into blossom. Now the blossoms are gone, leaves are greener, but the tree is in distress. First, there is a black blotchiness on the underside of some of the maturing leaves, though the newer ones look okay...so far. I wrote that off as being from the shocky stage,but now there are other problems. Second, aphids, which as far as I know are usually just cosmetic, but I'm concerned whether their presence can additionally harm a stressed tree. Third, the bigger problem. I have several areas where large amounts of sap, golden orange in color, are coming out of the trunk. Also, on the west side of the trunk, strips of bark are cracking and sloughing off, and there are long cracks in the naked trunk beneath. The canopy was overtrimmed, in my opinion, last year, and there is a bit too much westerly exposure, but the splitting started before the spring heat turned up, so I'm tempted to rule out sunburn. I read about gummosis and it seems that I'm meeting the checklist. What concerns me is that most of the information pretty much implies the tree is as good as dead. There are references to 'nursing through' but does that just mean treat and keep the tree alive an extra year, or can it actually recover? I'd appreciate any resources you could steer me towards. Thanks much, Degan From Iza_Amado@hotmail.com Sun Apr 29 17:11:44 2001 From: Iza_Amado@hotmail.com (Iza_Amado@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 10:11:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104291711.f3THBiu12170@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How many people live in Maricopa county? What is the vegitation like. Does Maricopa have any unique aspects? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Apr 29 18:24:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 11:24:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: MAricopa County Home Page References: <200104291711.f3THBiu12170@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <003601c0d0d9$b0abbea0$bf53530c@j0r9501> Suggest you explore the informational links at http://www.maricopa.gov/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 29 19:13:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:13:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis in Grapefruit? Message-ID: <66.e7d4800.281dc1ed@aol.com> Degan, Your grapefruit tree does have gummosis for which there is not a treatment. If the tree was over trimmed and the trunk left exposed to the afternoon sun then it has been severely sunburned. The best thing that you can do to keep this tree alive is to be sure that the tree has proper irrigation and fertilization. I would suggest that you either paint the trunk white or wrap it with burlap to prevent further sunburn. The tree will probably continue to decline until it is completely dead. Check out the following for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Further, a bulletin on citrus care called " Citrus Trees in the Home Garden " is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 29 19:13:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 15:13:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apricot tree with no leaves Message-ID: It is nearly May 1st and you haven't seen any new growth on your apricot then I think it is time to say good by to the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From outridge@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 19:38:57 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 12:38:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis in Grapefruit? Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010429123851.00a45ec0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> Rod, thank you for the references. You say the tree will continue to decline until dead...how long do you believe that will take? For instance, would it be better to just have the tree removed now, or is there any possibility that it could recover with care? I have no problem giving water and tlc, but prefer not to spend hundreds on chemicals or deep root treatments if it won't help. Also, in case of replacement, what is a fast-growing shade tree that I could plant near that area? I will either have to have the stump removed or ground, but need to put a tree in that area as it is the focal point for the patio. Regards, Degan At 03:13 PM 4/29/01 -0400, you wrote: >Degan, >Your grapefruit tree does have gummosis for which there is not a treatment. >If the tree was over trimmed and the trunk left exposed to the afternoon sun >then it has been severely sunburned. The best thing that you can do to keep >this tree alive is to be sure that the tree has proper irrigation and >fertilization. I would suggest that you either paint the trunk white or wrap >it with burlap to prevent further sunburn. The tree will probably continue to >decline until it is completely dead. Check out the following for info on >proper irrigation: >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html >http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf >Further, a bulletin on citrus care called " Citrus Trees in the Home Garden " >is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. >Broadway, Phoenix 85040. > >Good luck. >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Apr 29 20:07:59 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:07:59 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing milkweed Message-ID: The plant you describe could possibly be climbing milkweed. (The mounding at top is typical). If you cut the stems, do they exude a milky sap? Use Roundup following label directions to get rid of it. Be careful not to spray Roundup on other plants you wish to keep. The weed should be dead in 10 days to 2 weeks. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: rocknk@mindspring.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:03:24 -0700 (MST) > >We live on horse property& there is a weed that grows straight up v-mesh >fence. Mounds at the top, smells like onion, gets fuzzy flowers then seed >pods. Very strong vine type. What is it? How to kill it? Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From mv2ivy@qwest.net Sun Apr 29 23:50:45 2001 From: mv2ivy@qwest.net (mv2ivy@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 16:50:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104292350.f3TNoju14909@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a bird of paradise which is not blooming at this time. Is this normal or should there be blooms now? What is the blooming period and what can be done to encourage flowering. Thanks Steve From wildebw@home.com Mon Apr 30 02:19:07 2001 From: wildebw@home.com (Willem and Debbie Woudwyk) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 22:19:07 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca Plant Message-ID: Hello trying to find out some information about yucca plants. How many times do you need to water them? Sun or shade or little of both? Please let me know. Thanks. Debbie wildebw@home.com From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 02:45:25 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:45:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca Plant References: Message-ID: <3AECD1C5.208673AB@qwest.net> Debbie: You can get information on ordering our publication on Cactus, Agave, Yucca & Ocotillo by going to the following site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert There is an excellent book available in bookstores by Mary Irish entitled, Agaves, Yuccas and Related Plants. This book contains information on the different species of yuccas and their cultural requirements. Do you live in the low desert? Most yuccas prefer full sun to partial shade depending on the species, and well-drained soil. Established plants can get by on the normal amounts of rainfall during the cooler season. In the summer they should be deep-watered once every two or three weeks. It is important not to overwater. Most desert plants are more tolerant of too little soil moisture rather than too much. Sue Bass Willem and Debbie Woudwyk wrote: > Hello > > trying to find out some information about yucca plants. > > How many times do you need to water them? > Sun or shade or little of both? > > Please let me know. > > Thanks. > > Debbie > > wildebw@home.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From MTCactiPi@aol.com Mon Apr 30 02:47:33 2001 From: MTCactiPi@aol.com (MTCactiPi@aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:47:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104300247.f3U2lXu00440@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently planted a 5 gallon hibiscus(vice president)in Tucson. I planted it where it gets full sun until about noon, then total shade from then on. How often should I water and fertilize it? I mixed in some palm tree food into the backfill- a neighbor suggested that I do so. Also, how fast do these beautiful bushes grow provided they get lots of water and fertilizer? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 02:59:14 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 19:59:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Caring for Hibiscus References: <200104300247.f3U2lXu00440@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AECD502.6C14F3AF@qwest.net> The following web site is owned by the American Hibiscus Society and has lots of very good information on caring for hibiscus. http://trop-hibiscus.com/ Sue Bass MTCactiPi@aol.com wrote: > I recently planted a 5 gallon hibiscus(vice president)in Tucson. I planted it where it gets full sun until about noon, then total shade from then on. How often should I water and fertilize it? I mixed in some palm tree food into the backfill- a neighbor suggested that I do so. Also, how fast do these beautiful bushes grow provided they get lots of water and fertilizer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From NOSTOPNME2@AOL.COM Mon Apr 30 03:46:00 2001 From: NOSTOPNME2@AOL.COM (NOSTOPNME2@AOL.COM) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 20:46:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104300346.f3U3k0u08583@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HELLO I'M HAVING A PROBLEM WITH ONE OF MY ROSES THAT IN A CONTAINER. IT'S LEAVES ARE TURNING YELLOW TOWARDS THE BASE, AT THE SAME TIME IT STILL HAS NEW GROWTH. PLEASE HELP ME YOURS TRULY JEANNETTE From dbradley@cybertrails.com Mon Apr 30 04:20:00 2001 From: dbradley@cybertrails.com (dbradley@cybertrails.com) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2001 21:20:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104300420.f3U4K0u11777@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Zone 6 (Holbrook) and would like to plant a climbing vine on my chain link fence. I don't want Caroline Jasmine or Cape Honeysuckle. I was thinking about a climbing rose bush that would bloom in spring until the first frost or some type of pretty vine with big flowers that would bloom through out the season. This would be on the east side of our home getting plenty of sun. Also I would like to plant clematis, which is also on the east side of our yard and was wondering if you could recommend several types and how to plant them? If at possible I would like to have them trained around an arch entrance to our home. Our soil is sandy and we would amend the soil by mixing good topsoil. We are also interested in planting some bulbs that would stay in the ground throughout the year that would produce flowers annually as well as perennial flowers for our zone. Sorry to have over loaded you with some many questions but I don't know who all to asked since we do not have a nursery in this city. Any help would deeply appreciate. Is there a site or someone who designs a landscape plan? Forgot to mention that I would like low water and drought tolerant plants suggestions as well. We are striving for a Xeriscape front yard with minimal work. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 15:54:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:54:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fairy moss References: <5.0.2.1.0.20010412095913.00a36b00@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <3AED8AC0.A5AD9EF7@qwest.net> I've just spent a half hour by phone with my favorite pond lady, Sylvia at the Lily Pond. If what you have been offered is fairy shrimp, this is a type of insect, daphnea [?], which people like to have in the pond for fish hatchings in spring. Good source of food, but it turns the water reddish/rusty on a seasonal basis [sort of like red-tide]. They are like water fleas, little dots jumping around. Usually shows up in cold, springtime aquatic situations. Those who have had them in local AZ ponds probably brought them in with a plant purchase. She has tried to cultivate them as a food source for tropical fish purveyors, but it's too hot here. You would have to ask AZ Fish & Game as to problems with introduction into public waterways. She has about 30 references to pond mosses in some of her no longer published reference materials. She would require the botanical name to assist you. But she asks the question if this is possibly an algea, of which there are a mere 'bazillion' or so? Why does one want to introduce mosses in a pond? They aren't purely parasitic, but in order to exist, they need to attach to something in the pond; usually needs humidity, a level of acidity, and coolness. These are not likely to be factors found in a low desert pond. If you can get the botanical name, Sylvia would be happy to look it up for you. Linda Guy, Master Gardener Pat wrote: > Hi all, > I have an offer of some fairy moss for my pond but I have no idea what it > is or if it could be considered a pest on this area like water hyacinth is > in Florida. Does anyone know what it is, if it would grow here and if it > would be suitable for this area (metro Phoenix)? I don't want to introduce > anything that could be harmful to our lovely desert environment. I love it > here but I will be singing a slightly different tune come July/Aug. Thanks > for any help anyone can give me. > > Pat > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 15:56:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:56:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Handling Cats References: <200104091645.f39GjMC01211@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8B24.AB114463@qwest.net> Did you see the article in last Wed's Republic gardening section which addressed this? Linda Guy Master Gardener jbbell310@cs.com wrote: > We are looking for a (humane)way to keep neighborhood cats from laying on and flattening our 'soft' plants. Is there any repellent natural or chemical for cats. > Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 15:57:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 08:57:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes References: <200104092027.f39KR7C02572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8B77.99E4A4A0@qwest.net> My personal experience with grapes is from the midAtlantic seaboard. May I suggest that you order our publication on growing grapes at home at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Unfortunately, it is not available online. Linda Guy Master Gardener darengaylor@hotmail.com wrote: > I am interested in growing grapes here at my home in phoenix. I bought 2 thompson seedless green grape vines that i would like to grow on my pool fence, in full sun, with drip irrigation. Is this ideal? Also, can they be grown in pots or must I place them in the ground? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:03:10 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:03:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Varieties of Nerium Oleander References: <200104111758.f3BHwaC05301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8CBD.221C699D@qwest.net> Most of these shrubs grow 8 - 12 feet high and about as wide, with 4 - 12 inch leaves. Compact varieties like Petite Pink are about 4 feet high and wide. There are a few in between om the 5 to 7 foot range. These are discussed pretty well in the Sunset Western Garden Book. Evidently you did not make a purchase of a dwarf or compact variety. Linda Guy Master Gardener jfpechous@earthlink.net wrote: > Dear Sir: > We have a variety of Oleander that is quite long leaved and seems to grow rapidly and spreads side ways. They are very deferent then the ones we see that are more like a bush. Each stem grows from the ground up with out any laddering branches? When should this type be Pruned to keep them from spreading sideways? > Thanks for any advice you can give. > > Sincerely Yours Joseph F. Pechous > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:04:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Canyon Pentstemon References: <200104120450.f3C4odC11716@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8D0D.BDE5B425@qwest.net> Are you sure this is Canyon Penstemon? My sources show that it blooms from spring through summer, a shocking pink color. Mine is still in bloom and sprawls from its weight as you have described. Do you have a latin name? Linda Guy Master Gardener lkapel@earthlink.net wrote: > My Canyon Penstemon's have just about finished blooming and have fallen over from their own weight. Should they be cut down or just left until next spring? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:05:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:05:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID References: <200104130347.f3D3lwC07003@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8D4C.B33CED2A@qwest.net> Have you considered the skeletonizer as the source of your problem? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/grape-sk.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener ljob@qwest.net wrote: > My fruit trees, grapes, strawberries & > vegetables are being eaten alive. All that > is remaining on the leaves is the stem & > the main vein that supported the leaf, > never had this before, can't find anything > on the underside of the leaves. Stumped. > > Some of the leaves also on my avacodo tree's > are like burned up dry & crumbling into the > wind. > > What is happened this year?? > > Help. I try to practice organic gardening & > pest control. > > Signed Stumped in Mesa!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:07:59 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:07:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Privet References: <200104161935.f3GJZ9I07157@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8DDF.AEE67DD9@qwest.net> There are several varieties of privet that grow in our climate. Check out the Sunset Western Garden Book for a thorough discussion and to help you select the one you'd favor most. I have seen them in most local nurseries, although I haven't been inclined to use this material myself. Linda Guy Master Gardener dkrob6@earthlink.net wrote: > I hope this doesn't sound like a strange question - but - it has been suggested to us that we remove oleander bushes on the perimeter of the property and replace them with privet hedges. I associate privet hedges with England's climate and that of the Northeast - wet and cool - so what's the possibility of privet hedges surviving in the dry and the heat of Phoenix's low desert? If they can survive in this climate, will they be "high maintenance"? Your comments and advice will be much appreciated..Thanks....Dick > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:10:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:10:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eucalyptus for Termites References: <200104162333.f3GNX9I28218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8E65.7B1B60DD@qwest.net> It would seem to me that the presence of wood mulch would give termites several things that they like, food and moisture http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/termite.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener mmclean@aztrib.com wrote: > Where can I buy eucalyptus bark mulch > and is it really good at keeping bugs (termites) away? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:13:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:13:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bird of paradise seeds References: <001d01c0ce92$d1f957a0$379a7ed4@jcs-350> Message-ID: <3AED8F24.1DCE80CB@qwest.net> --------------12625C2B90C3FD5EB8C76948 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We would need to know if this is Strelitzia [tropical bird of paradise] or Caesalpinia [Mexican or red bird of paradise]. Linda Guy Master Gardener Diane Stenton wrote: > HiWe've just aquired some Bof P seeds and planted them in comopst and > put them in the propigator. Nothing has come out. Do they have to have > a dormant stage or a time in the fridge?Would appreciate any help on > this matterRegardsDiane and James stenton --------------12625C2B90C3FD5EB8C76948 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We would need to know if this is Strelitzia [tropical bird of paradise] or Caesalpinia [Mexican or red bird of paradise].

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Diane Stenton wrote:

 HiWe've just aquired some Bof P seeds and planted them in comopst and put them in the propigator. Nothing has come out. Do they have to have a dormant stage or a time in the fridge?Would appreciate any help on this matterRegardsDiane and James stenton
--------------12625C2B90C3FD5EB8C76948-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Apr 30 16:16:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise References: <200104292350.f3TNoju14909@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AED8FF0.485C9F36@qwest.net> Do you have Strelitzia [tropical b of p]? Looks like a crane, and it blooms most profusely during the cool season, although there will be some flowering year round. Or do you have Caesalpinia also called Mexican or Red b of p? These blooms are just beginning to kick into gear on what is usually a deciduous plant here. Linda Guy Master Gardener mv2ivy@qwest.net wrote: > We have a bird of paradise which is not blooming at this time. Is this normal or should there be blooms now? What is the blooming period and what can be done to encourage flowering. > Thanks > Steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From mld6@uswest.net Mon Apr 30 16:57:31 2001 From: mld6@uswest.net (mld6@uswest.net) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 09:57:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104301657.f3UGvVa06609@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My roses usually do very well. I use a systemic and Az fertilizer on them. This year they developed powdery mildew, which I have been treating for. My question is that the stems of the roses are not strong even the larger ones. Once they get buds on them and get heavier they are bending or breaking at the joint where they are attached to the main trunk of the rose plant. I have never had this happen before. Can you tell me what is wrong and what I can do? Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 30 23:27:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:27:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose canes breaking off Message-ID: You may have a nutrient difficiency. Please tell me what the NPK analysis is on the fertilizer bag, also when did you fertilize and how much did you give each bush? Have you done anything different this year than in previous years to your roses? What do the leaves look like? Are the leaves dark green? Where do you live? How often do you water and how much? I'll await your response. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 30 23:27:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:27:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose leaves turning yellow Message-ID: Jeanette, Yellow leaves on a plant is quite often an indication that the plant is being over or under watered. Check out the following for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From keokie.II@aol.com Sun Apr 1 18:03:54 2001 From: keokie.II@aol.com (keokie.II@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 11:03:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104011803.f31I3s426870@Ag.Arizona.Edu> are premergents effective in an existing bermuda lawn ? If so what type and when and how often to use? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 1 19:55:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 15:55:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Washingtonia Robusta Message-ID: <94.124d4b66.27f8e1c1@aol.com> If you will correct your irrigation practice on your palms you will probably see a difference, however it may take several months for the difference to show up. Palms should be DEEP watered every two weeks in the summer and every four to six weeks in the winter. You are on target by using a palm fertilizer, but apply it three to four times a year. You have made a good start by using the day long drip. Check out the bulletin on Arizona Landscape Palms which details palm care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Apr 1 19:55:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 15:55:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food Message-ID: <30.12adc3ed.27f8e1c3@aol.com> Ursula, There are text books written about the subjects that you have questioned and I can't begin to do a thorough job of answering you in an email nor am I qualified. The nurseryman was correct in one statement, and that is that one does not have to apply the granular fertilizer as often as the water soluble fertilizer. You can use both fertilizers to good advantage especially with flowers and roses by using the granular as a basic fertilizer and then using the water soluble as a booster. For instance last fall when the weather turned so cold immediately after the planting time for annuals, the soil temps were low enough that many of the nutrients were not available to the plants; by applying a water soluble fertilizer to the leaves, the nutrients became available and the plants grew. Most water soluble fertilizer labels will indicate usage every two weeks. Ironite as well as iron sulfate are very slow acting requiring as much as a year to show any response. For a quick response one should us a chelated iron product. I don't believe that the granular product is more readily available than the liquid. As for your last question, now you are getting into what could be a whole semester of study in college, thats why you could benefit greatly from taking the Master Gardener Training. I'll answer one part of your question, yes you can definitely apply the wrong fertilizer, and I will cite an example of a mistake that I made last fall. I planted a dozen geraniums in a window box and fertilized them with a fertilizer that I thought was a 13/13/13. Somehow an 18/5/8 fertilizer had been mistakenly put in the container marked 13/13/13. I have the most beautiful foliage you could ever want but almost no blossoms. When I realized what had happened I started applying a high phosporus water soluble fertilizer every two weeks which has helped, but I still have beautiful foliage. Why not check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on soils, it has a section on fertilizers and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From talldave1@yahoo.com Sun Apr 1 21:00:26 2001 From: talldave1@yahoo.com (talldave1@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:00:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012100.f31L0Q410724@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when,what and how much do i feed a fantex ash tree. phoenix area. your responce appreciated. thanks From talldave1@yahoo.com Sun Apr 1 21:01:11 2001 From: talldave1@yahoo.com (talldave1@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012101.f31L1B410801@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when,what and how much do i feed a fantex ash tree. phoenix area. your responce appreciated. thanks From alogden@mindspring.com Sun Apr 1 21:22:34 2001 From: alogden@mindspring.com (allen ogden) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:22:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] unscribe Message-ID: Please remove my name from your mailing list. Leen Ogden From mherzb@acxiom.com Sun Apr 1 21:49:27 2001 From: mherzb@acxiom.com (mherzb@acxiom.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 14:49:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104012149.f31LnR414383@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I have used your service once before and it was very helpful. I appreciate this service and find myself in need of good advice once again. I did all the landscaping for our back yard. Everything turned out great, except parts of the sod. It is not necessarily bad, but I do have a situation I would like to resolve. We bought Bob sod, which is a seasonal bermunda and the same sod in Bank One Ballpark. We prepared the soil as instructed leveling as best as possible, removing rocks, and watering and spreading compost and mulch on the dirt surfice. The sod has been in for about 2 months now and has grown together well. However, toward the back of the yard which gets more sunlight (we have north south exposure), some patches of the grass grow much faster than others. Therefore there is no consistency in the level of growth for the grass. This being the case, when I mow, the parts that grow the fastest are discolored and brown once they are trimmed. I suspect that the lower parts of high growth areas are not getting sun so when I mow they are brown as compared to the low growth areas which are green and beautiful. The Bob sod was dormant when we bought the rolls and was overseeded with winter rye. I don't know if the bermuda is coming out of dormancy or not at this point and if that could be a cause. Also,FYI, I was watering 3 times a day for about 5 minutes per watering when we first put in the sod. I have now cut back to 2 times a day every other day and 5 minutes per watering. Any ideas leading to a solution would be very much appreciated. Thanks so much and I hope to hear back from you soon. Matt Herzberg From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Apr 1 23:07:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 16:07:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food References: Message-ID: <006c01c0bb01$f3adf800$f450530c@j0r9501> Very good questions. Following is my $0.02. Others may have different opinions. First a few qualifiers: Plants respond to macro and micro nutrients. The macro nutrients are also classified as primary and secondary macro nutrients. The three primary macro nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The numbers N-P-K indicate the percentage of the nutrient in the product. If none of the numbers are zero, it is said to be a complete fertilizer. The following may be an over simplification of the roles of the plant nutrients because they all work together, but it may help to understand why there are so many different N-P-K concentrations in the various fertilizers. The role of nitrogen, the first number, is to promote vegetative growth and dark leaf color. For turf and leafy vegetables, you would want to apply a fertilizer with a significant nitrogen content. Nitrogen is less stable than the other nutrients and should be worked into the soil. I would suggest it may also be more volatile when dissolved it water, but this is only a guess. Fertilizer burn may occur if nitrogen is overused or if left on foliage without washing it off. Our desert soils are low in nitrogen content. Phosphorus, the second number, promotes energy storage and energy transfer. A high phosphorus content would be indicated for root and bulb vegetables, vegetables bearing fruit above the ground, flowering bulbs, and flower and fruit production. Our desert soils are low in phosphorus. The third nutrient, potassium, contributes to the overall health and strength of the plant. It is abundant in our desert and crops have not been shown to respond to the application of additional potassium. But it is always present in a balanced fertilizer and over-application does not appear to be harmful - the plants only take up however much is needed. Two of the secondary macro nutrients that are also important in to soils are sulfur and calcium. Most leafy vegetable crops have a high calcium content. Many complete fertilizers contain both nutrients. Sulfur helps to lower the pH to allow plants to take up some of the micro nutrients like iron and zinc. Returning to you questions, water soluble fertilizers tend to be more volatile. The different NPK numbers have to do with the intended use and the local soil conditions. As to whether there is a danger of giving too much of one kind of nutrient, I would watch the nitrogen content which can overstimulate vegetative growth or cause fertilizer burn. But generally, if you have fertilizer on hand, I would use it up on whatever needs fertilizing because of the instability of some of the nutrients. I would also limit application to about half of the manufacturer's recommendations. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2001 4:46 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Soluble or Non-Water Soluble Plant Food > Can someone verify this for me? > > A nursery owner recently told me that it's more convenient to use non-water > soluble plant food because you don't have to apply it as often. She really > kind of pooh-poohed the water-soluble products - like they didn't quite make > the cut. She said that the water-soluble type has to be used once a week, > while the others only need to be applied every few months. > > I had been using the water-soluble type, though not once a week. I used it > much less frequently. My plants were happy. And sometimes I used the > non-water soluble kind. My plants were happy with that, too. > > Since you guys are experts in all this -- what's your opinion? (I remember > one of you saying recently that Ironite is not as good as the granular iron > because the plant can't absorb the liquid form as easily as the granular > kind. Does this also apply to food?) > > One more question, while I've got your attention: I understand the numbers > on plant food, but they seem to be all over the map when I look at the > fertilizer in stores. General shrub fertilizer can have numbers that vary > vastly from one manufacturer to another. Is there a danger of giving too > much of one kind of nutrient if I just go with the max on all three > nutrients? (This is the only part of gardening I don't like -- the > important scientific part. Which is, in fact, one reason why I'm not going > through the Master Gardener course. This module and the part on > acidic/non-acidic soil would just drive me nuts.) > > Ursula Miller > > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 2 00:59:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:59:20 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown areas after mowing Message-ID: Matt, You are correct in assuming that the areas of your yard that is getting more sunshine is growing faster because of the sun. The brown areas are no doubt caused by allowing the taller grass area to grow too much before cutting it. You should never cut off more than 1/3 of the grass at one time. If you do the grass will turn brown. You might also have developed a fungus by overwatering. I would guess that 10 minutes of watering per day every 3 to 4 days would be very adequate. The most accurate way to determine how much water is required is to measure the amount applied. You can do this by setting out several cans (tuna fish can size) running your sprinkler system and measuring the water in the cans and averaging them. YOur newspaper on the weather page gives the amount of water turf requires if watered three days ago. Todays paper called for 0.48 inches of water if last watered three days ago. Most of the cities in the valley will send you free info on watering trees, turf and plants, just call their Water Conservation Dept. Check out this website on turf care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Apr 2 00:59:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:59:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Trees Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual's chapter on Arborculture has a section on fertilizing plants and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From carefreedentons@aol.com Mon Apr 2 03:20:08 2001 From: carefreedentons@aol.com (carefreedentons@aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2001 20:20:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104020320.f323K7414524@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our Saguaro is dripping a dark sap like substance from a bird hole near the top of the Saguaro. Is this a disease, and if so can anything be done? From Skimojo@aol.com Mon Apr 2 16:34:18 2001 From: Skimojo@aol.com (Skimojo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 09:34:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104021634.f32GYId26413@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to know what type of soil I need for my Bird-of-Paradise (tropical). Please help it is turning yellow and I have a beautiful bloom. It is in partial sun. Thank you. From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 2 18:10:45 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:10:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104021634.f32GYId26413@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8C0A5.DF28BDEE@AuroraNow.org> I'm with you, Ursula--way too complicated for me! Alan told me to feed my roses fish emulsion (5-1-1) which they seem to love (they've grown a foot in the last month and are budding like crazy) so I'm going to stick with it, even though the Ortho rose food is higher in phosphorous (8-12-4). I noticed that's almost identical to the water soluble quick=start (4-12-4) which I use on any non-natives I plant. I read to use palm fertilizer on my hibiscus (6-5-12 is what the brand I got has). According to Olin, hibiscus would then love our native, potassium-rich soil, but mine are in containers with potting soil because I need to winter them indoors. It seems to me that each plant has its own needs--Olin's response made good common sense to me, to use the water soluble type (quicker acting) for occasional boosts. I never feed my natives, only my roses and hibiscus and once in a while if my houseplants get lucky, I'll think to feed them a bit. I use the quick start at planting time only for shrubs and flowers unless its something that I see growing wild along roadsides (i.e., I used it when I put my salvias and cat claw vines in, but not on my penstemons or native fairy duster)--it just seemed most logical to try to give them what nature is most likely to give (or not give) them. I would think alot of the decision would also need to depend on the soil the plant is going into, right MGs? For instance, if one was to put a non-native in our native, poor, sandy soil without any other amendments, I would think some type of feeding would be good. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Apr 2 18:24:59 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 11:24:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question References: Message-ID: <3AC8C3FB.27895CDB@AuroraNow.org> Hi experts :-) I planted a pomegranate in January and with the warm weather it has really filled out, gotten all nice 'n bushy (just a young shrub--5 gallon when planted, between 3-4 feet now). I have the soaker hose looped around it about a foot away from the trunk so it gets a bit more water than some of the other plants (mostly natives and xerics). But the leaves at the very tips are all shriveled (no yellow or dying, just shriveled). Is it maybe just not getting quite enough water? I only amended the soil (native sand) with about 1/3 compost when I planted it... could it be needing something more? I have a veritable potluck of food (evidenced by my last post. ha!) but if it needs something, what should I give it? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From diane.hall@triadhospitals.com Mon Apr 2 17:54:04 2001 From: diane.hall@triadhospitals.com (diane.hall@triadhospitals.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 10:54:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104021754.f32Hs4d13798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a question regarding Texas Mountain Laurel Trees. I purchased 3 or 4 plants which were approx. 18" tall about 2 years ago. In that time, I think they've grown about 1" in height. All are in full sun. I did not amend the soil before planting. Could the soil condition have anything to do with the slow growth rate? Is there anything I can do to improve the growth rate? I do give the plants supplemental water. Would fertilizing help? How often should they receive water? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Apr 2 19:16:57 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 12:16:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104021754.f32Hs4d13798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8D029.86FACD4A@email.sps.mot.com> Hi Diane, Texas Mount Laurel is a very slow grower. Once established, it may not even grow over 6 inches a year. You might get a little more growth out of it by fertilizing and watering more, but from what I've read, that may draw catapillars to the new growth, and they will chomp everything away. At any rate, it is not a fast grower. The only resort is patience :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! diane.hall@triadhospitals.com wrote: > I have a question regarding Texas Mountain Laurel Trees. I purchased 3 or 4 plants which were approx. 18" tall about 2 years ago. In that time, I think they've grown about 1" in height. All are in full sun. I did not amend the soil before planting. Could the soil condition have anything to do with the slow growth rate? Is there anything I can do to improve the growth rate? I do give the plants supplemental water. Would fertilizing help? How often should they receive water? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From valpogrl@aol.com Mon Apr 2 21:53:48 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 14:53:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104022153.f32Lrmd24181@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I need a little advice on rose care. Due to a back injury I was unable to do my spring pruning. Obviously they are all either budded out or blooming now. Do you think that as I do "normal" pruning (after blooms or for cut flowers) I should cut back more of the stem? Sort of a semi-spring pruning? Thank you, Cindy Ciotti From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Apr 2 22:27:30 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 15:27:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104022153.f32Lrmd24181@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC8FCD2.1DF2DEC8@email.sps.mot.com> I would not do any severe pruning at this time. You risk the canes being burnt as we are getting close to our hottest summer weather. You want to keep as much foilage as possible on the bush. I would just cut them back a little to keep them at a maintainable height, and wait till next January to do an extensive pruning. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I need a little advice on rose care. Due to a back injury I was unable to do my spring pruning. Obviously they are all either budded out or blooming now. Do you think that as I do "normal" pruning (after blooms or for cut flowers) I should cut back more of the stem? Sort of a semi-spring pruning? > > Thank you, > > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Apr 3 00:03:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 20:03:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird of Paradise leaves turning yellow Message-ID: Either too much or too little water can cause plant leaves to yellow. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Mon Apr 2 23:51:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 16:51:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question In-Reply-To: <3AC8C3FB.27895CDB@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - I have two pomegranates - one in the yard and a small one in a pot. These are such nice plants with those bright orange flowers and fruit. I feed the one in the ground like the rest of my plants - rarely - but definitely when the leaves start turning yellow about once a year. Iron seems to do the trick for that. I didn't even amend the soil when I planted it; I was in a hurry and took my chances. My neighbor has one, too (about the size of yours), and I know that he doesn't do anything with his plants that the annual landscaping guys don't do for him. So I know that his hardly ever (if ever) get fed at all because the landscaping guys just prune everything into rounded shapes, blow the yard, clean up and leave. So I am thinking that the plants don't need a lot of feeding. On the watering - I have a 1 gallon dripper on mine that now runs for 1-1/2 hours 3 times a week. I increase that during the summer. The plant seems to be happy. I have not encountered the leaf shriveling you mention. My desert gardening book says that it tolerates any amount of water but prefers deep occasional soaking (so now I'm thinking now that I may remove the dripper and just deep soak it occasionally). Could it be that you're overwatering it? Ursula Miller With Her $.02 -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 11:25 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pomegranate question Hi experts :-) I planted a pomegranate in January and with the warm weather it has really filled out, gotten all nice 'n bushy (just a young shrub--5 gallon when planted, between 3-4 feet now). I have the soaker hose looped around it about a foot away from the trunk so it gets a bit more water than some of the other plants (mostly natives and xerics). But the leaves at the very tips are all shriveled (no yellow or dying, just shriveled). Is it maybe just not getting quite enough water? I only amended the soil (native sand) with about 1/3 compost when I planted it... could it be needing something more? I have a veritable potluck of food (evidenced by my last post. ha!) but if it needs something, what should I give it? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 00:31:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2001 17:31:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Problems References: <200104020320.f323K7414524@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC919F1.111F9BC2@qwest.net> You could be experiencing bacterial necrosis in your saguaro. Take a look at our page on the subject at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm which also contains advice on managing the situation. It's important to note that it may not be the bird's fault! They often nest in preexisting holes. This is a bacterial problem, and I'm not entirely sure if the birds are the vector. Linda Guy Master Gardener carefreedentons@aol.com wrote: > Our Saguaro is dripping a dark sap like substance from a bird hole near the top of the Saguaro. Is this a disease, and if so can anything be done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From hongly@digitaldune.net Tue Apr 3 01:42:15 2001 From: hongly@digitaldune.net (hongly@digitaldune.net) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:42:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104030142.f331gFd27184@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My vegetable grown so well ( bokchoy, mustard green, colard green, tomatoes, green been, cucumbers ...), but there are a lot of little flyers eaten all the leaves. What should I do ? I live in Yuma, where the weather is already upto 80 degrees. I appreaciate your help. From mholub@email.msn.com Tue Apr 3 02:54:31 2001 From: mholub@email.msn.com (mholub@email.msn.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 19:54:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104030254.f332sVd03194@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have started a new garden and used commercial garden mix from a local dirt yard. The soil was tilled with humas and manure added. I planted my tomatoes (6 different variety) about mid March and fertilized them with weekly with a liquid fertilizer mix. None of the tomatoes has grown. They seem to be shrinking and turning a purplish color. The beans and peppers planted seem to be doing fine. I have a feeling that it's the soil but I'm not quite sure what to do with it. HELP From drgarnett@msn.com Tue Apr 3 07:36:53 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:36:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here =20 in Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high, =20 beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except =20 that it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through our palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon. We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month during the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I like the delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good, =20 and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salvia greggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are flowering even now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but =20 we've already asked about them and know they're not a problem. We just hose them off.) Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked a =20 bunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seen produce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not getting =20 enough sun? Don Garnett
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------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have a = 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here
in Tucso= n. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high,
beaut= ifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except
=
that it has never flowered, to our disappointment.
 =
This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through= our
palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in= the afternoon.
We have been watering by drip for a few hours = once a month during
the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk= shower just because I like
the delicious smell that arises fr= om it! The drainage is very good,
and we have not fertilized = the plant yet. We also have some Salvia
greggii planted nearby= that are doing just fine - they are flowering
even now. (The = plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but
we've alrea= dy asked about them and know they're not a problem.
We just ho= se them off.)
 
Are there varieties of rosemar= y that don't blossom? I checked a
bunch of materials on rosem= ary and all the varieties I have seen
produce blossoms. Is it = possible that the plant is not getting
enough sun?
 
   Don Garnett
 


Get your FREE download of MSN Explor= er at http://explorer.msn.com
=

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0BBD6.2DE5BC40-- From Randee" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankPlease help! Last year I planted a Purple Trumpet Vine to crawl up and around my arbor. Someone told me that this plant is AWFUL. They said that the root will grow new plants all over my garden, that the flowers are sparse, and it is not a evergreen vine. Please let me know if I was told the correct information. Should I pull them out? Thanks for your help. ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <001a01c0bc4e$f0775fc0$ef05dd18@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01C0BC1C.A5E490E0-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 3 17:50:37 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 10:50:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purple Trumpet Vine References: <001e01c0bc4e$f10547e0$ef05dd18@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3ACA0D6D.504DDC9F@AuroraNow.org> I don't have any experience with the trumpet vine (Campsis), but the Western Garden Book says "Vigorous climbers that cling to wood, brick and stucco surfaces with aerial rootlets. Unless thinned, old plants sometimes become top heavy and pull away from supporting surface. Will spread through garden and into neighbor's by suckering roots. If you try to dig up suckers, any remaining piece of root will grow another plant. Can be trained as big shrub or flowering hedge if branches are shortened after first year's growth. Use for large-scale effects, quick summer screen. All produce open, arching sprays of trumpet-shaped flowers in August and September." They are deciduous (not evergreen) and the book says it quickly recovers in the spring if frozen. The WGB doesn't list a purple variety, so maybe you have a hybrid that will mind its manners a bit more. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From dbmaz@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 18:07:49 2001 From: dbmaz@qwest.net (Dave McCarroll) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 11:07:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Not Leafing Message-ID:
I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a little in the mornings and noon time.  This tree (and the one before it) has not leafed out where others in the area have.  It is nice and green and seems to be healthy otherwise.
 
I would like to know if there is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something else.
 
Dave McCarroll
Master Gardener
Anthem AZ

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From millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu Tue Apr 3 18:15:47 2001 From: millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu (millie.daniel@cgcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 11:15:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104031815.f33IFld15263@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I plant sweet potatoes? I have serious clay soil. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 3 20:07:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 20:07:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming Message-ID: hmmm....Sounds like you are doing all the right things and the plant is healthy. What about pruning? The flowers are borne on old growth. If you prune Fall to January, you may remove the stems that would produce flowers. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Donald Garnett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 00:36:53 -0700 > > >We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard here >in Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high, >beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, except >that it has never flowered, to our disappointment. > >This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through our >palo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon. >We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month during >the winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I like >the delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good, >and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salvia >greggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are flowering >even now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, but >we've already asked about them and know they're not a problem. >We just hose them off.) > >Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked a >bunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seen >produce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not getting >enough sun? > > Don Garnett
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_________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Apr 3 20:31:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 20:31:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] insect pest on vegetables Message-ID: These could be whiteflies or see the following web page for other possibilites: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/entomology/garden.html Whiteflies Adult whiteflies are less than 1/16 inch long and covered with a whitish, waxy powder (under a microscope it is apparent their bodies are actually pale yellow). The oval, flattened immatures settle down and feed on the underside of leaves, often creating sticky beads of "honeydew." The most prolific type of whitefly is the sweet potato whitefly. Other species found in Arizona are the ash whitefly and the greenhouse whitefly, which may require special controls. Although when the numbers are high in the fall sweet potato whiteflies appear to be on every single plant in the yard, they tend to feed and develop on a more limited number of plants. Hibiscus, lantana, and annual herbs and vegetables seem to be preferred hosts. Target control measures at these types of plants. To avoid problems, delay planting fall vegetables until temperatures begin to decline and whitefly numbers drop. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: hongly@digitaldune.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2001 18:42:15 -0700 (MST) > >My vegetable grown so well ( bokchoy, mustard green, colard green, >tomatoes, green been, cucumbers ...), but there are a lot of little flyers >eaten all the leaves. >What should I do ? I live in Yuma, where the weather is already upto 80 >degrees. >I appreaciate your help. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue Apr 3 21:01:30 2001 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 14:01:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Blossums not Setting Message-ID: My tomatoes seem to be doing fine. Plenty of blooms. But there's no tomatoes! They get full sunlight until 3pm, that's when my neighbor's tree shades them. Thanks. You guys are a big help. - Jim From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Apr 3 21:33:23 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 14:33:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010403143138.00d8dac0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Has anyone tried peat mulch as a method of water conservation? Sounds interesting. >2: Key to prevention of surface moisture loss is mulch. I feel that teh best >surface mulch is peat, in that when it dries, it becomes hydrophobic, >preventing water from wicking to the surface, where it can be evaporated. >Kevin Chisholm From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 22:27:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 15:27:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Not Leafing References: Message-ID: <3ACA4E36.B87683B0@qwest.net> --------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience it is precisely the matter of location. All my native trees that are well shaded on north facades take longer to releaf than others elsewhere; many of the latter will have scant leaf loss because of full winter sun. They are cold and light deciduous, in other words. My palo brea is just leafing out these past ten days as is my screwbean mesquite. The only horticultural practice you now need is patience! Linda Guy Master Gardener Dave McCarroll wrote: > I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as > a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same > area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a > little in the mornings and noon time. This tree (and the one before > it) has not leafed out where others in the area have. It is nice and > green and seems to be healthy otherwise. I would like to know if there > is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something > else. Dave McCarrollMaster GardenerAnthem AZ > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing > list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In my experience it is precisely the matter of location. All my native trees that are well shaded on north facades take longer to releaf than others elsewhere; many of the latter will have scant leaf loss because of full winter sun. They are cold and light deciduous, in other words. My palo brea is just leafing out these past ten days as is my screwbean mesquite. The only horticultural practice you now need is patience!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Dave McCarroll wrote:

I am dealing with a Palo Brea that is approx 2 years old (purchased as a 24" box) and is the second of two that have been planted in the same area of a northern exposure front yard with no direct sun other than a little in the mornings and noon time.  This tree (and the one before it) has not leafed out where others in the area have.  It is nice and green and seems to be healthy otherwise. I would like to know if there is an issue with the location or if I'm dealing with something else. Dave McCarrollMaster GardenerAnthem AZ


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_______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--------------21FC0BAFE6D85FBA0FDCE8BF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Apr 3 22:28:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 15:28:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rosemary not blooming References: Message-ID: <3ACA4E87.EFCA61CF@qwest.net> --------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree with Linda....look to your pruning practices as new shoots take a full year to flower. Linda Guy Master Gardener Donald Garnett wrote: > > We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard herein > Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet > high,beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, > exceptthat it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant > has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through ourpalo verde for > the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon.We have been > watering by drip for a few hours once a month duringthe winter. > Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I likethe delicious > smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good,and we have not > fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salviagreggii planted > nearby that are doing just fine - they are floweringeven now. (The > plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, butwe've already asked > about them and know they're not a problem.We just hose them off.) Are > there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked abunch of > materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seenproduce > blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not gettingenough sun? > Don Garnett > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com --------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I agree with Linda....look to your pruning practices as new shoots take a full year to flower.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Donald Garnett wrote:

 
We have a 2 1/2 year old rosemary plant in our front yard herein Tucson. It's about 4 feet in diameter and about 2 feet high,beautifully green, full and bushy, and looks very healthy, exceptthat it has never flowered, to our disappointment. This plant has a southern exposure, gets filtered sun through ourpalo verde for the first half of the day, and full sun in the afternoon.We have been watering by drip for a few hours once a month duringthe winter. Occasionally I give it a brisk shower just because I likethe delicious smell that arises from it! The drainage is very good,and we have not fertilized the plant yet. We also have some Salviagreggii planted nearby that are doing just fine - they are floweringeven now. (The plant is also hosting a bunch of spittlebugs, butwe've already asked about them and know they're not a problem.We just hose them off.) Are there varieties of rosemary that don't blossom? I checked abunch of materials on rosemary and all the varieties I have seenproduce blossoms. Is it possible that the plant is not gettingenough sun?    Don Garnett  

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--------------1D27D66EF2723F16A87863E8-- From sommers13@cs.com Tue Apr 3 22:29:00 2001 From: sommers13@cs.com (sommers13@cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 15:29:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104032229.f33MT0d05977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 nerium olende and 2 hibicus - many of the leaves are turning yellow. Could this be do to to much watering? From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Apr 3 23:20:48 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 16:20:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200104032229.f33MT0d05977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACA5AD0.229C68B6@AuroraNow.org> I speak from personal (not expert) experience about your oleanders--yes, there's a good chance that if you even *think* you're overwatering them, you are. I had to transplant mine because they were in too dark and rich of soil. I moved them to a nice, well drained, unamended sandy spot and they're doing fine now (I almost killed them with kindness). If you have caliche under your soil that is preventing good drainage that may be the problem, too. Oleanders should be watered infrequently, but deeply. Hibiscus need much more regular waterings--if you have them next to each other there's a good chance one is getting too much water and the other not enough. Your hibiscus also want well drained soil, but they like it richer and only need to dry slightly between waterings. If your hibiscus are in the ground they could have gotten some winter frost damage--just prune it off if that's the case. You may want to try some iron chelate on your hibiscus (not on your oleander!) and a bit of palm fertilizer. I've also noticed I'll get sporatic yellow leaves on my hibiscus if they're subjected to a lot of wind. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Apr 4 00:36:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 20:36:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch Message-ID: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Kevin, The use of peat moss for a mulch would also work against you in many cases, water applied for irrigation will not be readily absorbed but will run off. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 4 01:20:10 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 18:20:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Justicia Spicigera References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <3ACA76CA.5FFF6BE0@AuroraNow.org> Before I start whining about my rabbits again, can someone tell me if J. Spicigera is on "the list" of plants that rabbits stay away from? I keep finding broken branches, but not any obvious munching and I'm not sure who to blame. I can't find my list of rabbit-resistant plants (I've given up trying to get rid of them, and they don't seem to read the same list of plants they don't like that I read, but at least they're leaving my lantana and salvias alone). -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Apr 4 01:22:12 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2001 18:22:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <3ACA7744.EEF692F1@AuroraNow.org> Rod and other MGs, I read recently that peat moss is starting to be considered a bad ecological choice because of "the damaging way it is harvested." Can't remember where I read it. Any insight? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Apr 4 04:44:01 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 21:44:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peat moss mulch References: <20.14553417.27fbc686@aol.com> Message-ID: <003f01c0bcc2$20d54920$d850530c@j0r9501> Jonathan, Not only will the water run off, the peat moss will float and run off too. Doesn't seem to mix well with our soil. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Kevin, > The use of peat moss for a mulch would also work against you in many cases, > water applied for irrigation will not be readily absorbed but will run off. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Apr 4 14:38:31 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 07:38:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > >Linda Ffolliott > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Peg Teeling >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 >Country: U.S. >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From suzperryman@aol.com Wed Apr 4 15:26:07 2001 From: suzperryman@aol.com (suzperryman@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104041526.f34FQ7d01352@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a potted hibiscus tree ( yellow flower)that suffered some stress last season- wind and not enough water..I have nursed it back adding enriching soil and nitrogen.. It's leaves are very curled and kind of dry yet I water it daily. If I skip a day I get yellow leaves on the plant. My other potted hibiscus ( red flower0 are doing fine, yet this plant still isn't blooming and looks a little sad. I have increased leaves this season, yet no buds. Recently, I had a mass of petunias grow in the base from natural seed spread, yet it didn't seem to affect it either way. Any suggestions how I can help it along?? From suzperryman@aol.com Wed Apr 4 15:29:23 2001 From: suzperryman@aol.com (suzperryman@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:29:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104041529.f34FTNd01884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have this crazy petunia plant ( varigated purple ) I planted last season. The seed spread naturally and it has grown in a couple of different places. It has a great scent too..When I pinch the dead flowers can I get seed from this and plant them in the ground next year- or start the seedling inside?? I wondered what you recommended for this climate to grow from seedling. I can't find anything on the internet about where the seed is in the flower so I am not sure if this will work. From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Apr 4 15:57:09 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 08:57:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: This tree grows prolific in the sub-tropical regions. We had them 100' tall and 75' wide in Zimbabwe (elevation 3000', 20 deg South, rain about 10" per year). I have one growing in my front lawn and it is now 30' tall and doing well. My neighbour behind me has a tree 40' tall. For it to be growing from the bottom - you must have lost the top at some time. I would suggest pruning it to one main trunk, cut out all the new growth below 5'. If the one trunk, you select, is still week you may need to stake it. Paint the trunk white for sunburn, fertilize and water. You will get a very beautiful shade tree. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Carol Noyes Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:39 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) >From: Linda Ffolliott >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > >Linda Ffolliott > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Comment from the College site > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > >Individual: Peg Teeling >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 >Country: U.S. >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Apr 4 16:17:05 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 09:17:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Comment from the College site (fwd) References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010404073818.00abb960@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3ACB4901.1D15A656@email.sps.mot.com> Carol, Bougainvilla can be pruned after the last chance of frost, so it should be OK to prune it now if in metro-phoenix. Likewise, the Jacaranda should be pruneable now. I have on, and it is just now starting to get it's new growth. I have mine pruned as a single trunk tree, and wish I had let it go as a multi trunked tree. They look so much prettier that way. So, they might want to consider just thinning it out a bit, and growing it as a multi-trunk tree. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Carol Noyes wrote: > >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:26:07 -0700 (MST) > >From: Linda Ffolliott > >To: Carol Noyes > >Subject: Comment from the College site (fwd) > > > >perhaps you can comment on this. I have never heard of this tree :> > > > >Linda Ffolliott > > > > > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > >Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2001 08:15:30 -0700 (MST) > >From: Arizonapeg@aol.com > >To: webmaster@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Comment from the College site > > > >A new comment has been posted to the College general site > > > >Individual: Peg Teeling > >Email: Arizonapeg@aol.com > >City: Maricopa,Az 85239 State: Arizona,85239 > >Country: U.S. > >Comment: Would like to know best time for pruning Jacarunda tree,ours is > >growing mostly from the bottom,also growing up the main trunk,fairly young > >tree.You gave us great advice on Bouganvia,any help will be greatly appreciate. > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > 602-470-8092 (fax) > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Wed Apr 4 20:11:54 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:11:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: EXOTIC GRASS ALERT Message-ID: <200104042011.NAA21383@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> If anyone is still interested in the issue of exotic grasses (I just returned from vacation and so I'm just catching up with newsletter items): There is a photo of purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) at http://www.dipbot.unict.it/orto/0681-1.html I believe The Nature Conservancy has an active program for eradicating buffelgrass from places like Organ Pipe and may be able to help in identifying that species. It is indeed often difficult to identify different grasses. One really needs to examine the flowers, which are often very small. Fountain grass is often sold as an ornamental (I found several nursery sites in the midwest offering it for sale), so this will be a difficult problem to deal with. Don Garnett From t2thraen@aol.com Wed Apr 4 20:51:42 2001 From: t2thraen@aol.com (t2thraen@aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 13:51:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042051.f34Kpgd11983@Ag.Arizona.Edu> something is eating mostly my young spinach and radish tops oh yes and my peas what could it be? i would like to treat this problam organicly. thanks From cornucopia.wine@home.com Wed Apr 4 22:30:40 2001 From: cornucopia.wine@home.com (cornucopia.wine@home.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:30:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042230.f34MUed02450@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted some hybiscus (seven) in my backyard about two-and-a-half months ago. They started out very strong and healthly but now as soon as a new leaf appears it turns yellow and falls off. Can you help? Thanks. From Pabaferd@juno.com Wed Apr 4 22:46:38 2001 From: Pabaferd@juno.com (Pabaferd@juno.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 15:46:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104042246.f34Mkcd05656@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you tell me how much water plants the following plants should receive in the Phoenix area. (Some established bushes and trees seem to be doing well, but I have added shrubs, perennials and annuals this year.) Shrubs: Baja Fairy Duster and Ruella were planted in October Perennials: Verbena was planted in October with a new planting in March Society Garlic was planted in March Annuals: Scabiosa, cosmos, zinnias, pansies are planted in 2 gallon pots. Trees: Tangelo and White Genoa Fig tree were planted in March. How much water do these plants need and how often should the above plants be watered? Our irrigation system has only one zone so the nozzles will have to be adjusted or limited as needed. Thank you! Barbara Ferdinand From lizmiles@home.com Wed Apr 4 23:15:15 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 16:15:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] moving occatillos Message-ID: <3ACBAB03.CBD253C5@home.com> I have 2 mature occatillos (sp?) that I would like to move from the back yard to the front. A neighbor had it done sucessfully and the move was recommended by a landscaper designer I interviewed, but I have decided to do a lot of the work myself. How risky is it....and where can I find someone to actually move the plants, without hiring a landscape company? I am learing so much from reading all the emails. You provide quite an education for newcomers. Thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Apr 5 00:02:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 17:02:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] moving occatillos References: <3ACBAB03.CBD253C5@home.com> Message-ID: <3ACBB61A.902FF2BA@AuroraNow.org> Liz, I know more about handling natives than I do regular garden flowers, but I'm not an expert. I've moved ocotillos before though, and it's not that hard. I think you could move your ocotillos yourself with some help, and now would be a good time to do it. Wet the soil slightly so you can try to keep some of the soil intact (it may fall away anyway--you'd be surprised how tiny the root ball is in comparison to the plant). Transplant it with some rocks and gravel mixed in the soil which should just be unamended native sand or dirt (when I transplanted mine, I tried to give it the same conditions as in the wild and it bounced right back). Give it a bit of supplemental watering for the first year while it re-establishes (I probably "over water" mine but it doesn't mind a bit). It's really not "risky" to the ocotillo, but they can take up to a year or two to really re-establish themselves and start leafing out and blooming again--so don't panic if they don't bloom next spring. If you can keep some soil around the root ball when moving, that seems to help. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bjbigham@earthlink.net Thu Apr 5 02:46:11 2001 From: bjbigham@earthlink.net (bjbigham@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 19:46:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104050246.f352kBd07412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three agave grandiflora plants in my front yard. I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of them has sent up a 15-foot high flower stalk, which I love. However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone and I don't know what to do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it down? Wait for it to dry up? Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Barbara B., Mesa, AZ From lfitzhugh@inficad.com Thu Apr 5 03:32:51 2001 From: lfitzhugh@inficad.com (lfitzhugh@inficad.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2001 20:32:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200104050332.f353Wpd14781@Ag.Arizona.Edu> April 4,2001 shorlty after I purchased about 210 Gladiola bulbs I became too ill to plant them. Questions: 1. Is it to late to plant them in the ground? 2. Can they be planted in containers? 3.If they cannot be planted,can they be placed in to some kind of soil mix and stored untill the next planting season? Thank you. , L.Fitzhugh From lizardacre@sprintmail.com Thu Apr 5 04:23:37 2001 From: lizardacre@sprintmail.com (K&V Countryman) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2001 21:23:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question about composting References: <200104031809.f33I9Id13947@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ACBF349.18258C8E@sprintmail.com> I have a problem with flies (thousands of them!) in my compost bins especially when I add grass cuttings to it. The grass also gives it an unpleasant odor. I've also had a healthy crop of roaches at times. Got any great solutions? From umiller@azdps.com Thu Apr 5 12:14:15 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 05:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200104050246.f352kBd07412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I have one, too, and did a little research on this. Supposedly this is the life end cycle of your agave but also supposedly your agave has already sent out new shoots which are planlets around the old plant. They will take over from the old plant. This is true in my case, as the one old plant has actually turned into a host of plants so I expect that it's business as usual (and that seems to be the way with similar plants that have done this in the neighborhood). I have not been able to find what should be done with the stalk once the plant has flowered. My neighbors or their landscapers have simply cut them down so I guess that's what I'll do, too. Sorry that I don't have more information on this, but maybe this helps. Ursula Miller, not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bjbigham@earthlink.net Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:46 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three agave grandiflora plants in my front yard. I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of them has sent up a 15-foot high flower stalk, which I love. However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone and I don't know what to do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it down? Wait for it to dry up? Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Barbara B., Mesa, AZ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Thu Apr 5 14:04:15 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2001 07:04:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] agave flower stalk In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010405140415.19425.qmail@web2306.mail.yahoo.com> In addition to Ursula's advice, I've had several agaves flower, and most of them I cut down after the stalk is pretty dry. I had one though, that due to rain it was rottening in some areas. I had to cut it down earlier because I didn't want it to fall on anybody. A dry agave flower is a great piece of decoration. You can use some coating that will prevent further degradation, and stick it in a corner of a house or yard, and it looks great. It also makes for a very different but interesting Christmas tree. Barbara --- Ursula Miller wrote: > I have one, too, and did a little research on this. > Supposedly this is the > life end cycle of your agave but also supposedly > your agave has already sent > out new shoots which are planlets around the old > plant. They will take over > from the old plant. This is true in my case, as the > one old plant has > actually turned into a host of plants so I expect > that it's business as > usual (and that seems to be the way with similar > plants that have done this > in the neighborhood). > > I have not been able to find what should be done > with the stalk once the > plant has flowered. My neighbors or their > landscapers have simply cut them > down so I guess that's what I'll do, too. > > Sorry that I don't have more information on this, > but maybe this helps. > > Ursula Miller, not a Master Gardener > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf > Of > bjbigham@earthlink.net > Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2001 7:46 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW > page > > > Hi .. I hope someone here can help me. I have three > agave grandiflora plants > in my front yard. > > I planted them 5 years ago and this year, one of > them has sent up a 15-foot > high flower stalk, which I love. > > However, the flowers have pretty much come and gone > and I don't know what to > do with that giant stalk. Am I supposed to cut it > down? Wait for it to dry > up? > > Also, will the agave continue to live afterwards? > > Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. > > Barbara B., Mesa, AZ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Apr 5 15:11:41 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2001 15:11:41 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda Tree, pruning Message-ID: Eric Johnson's book, "Pruning, Planting and Care" is an excellent book for answering pruning questions. He states "prune in winter to thin and remove undesrable growth". This tree may grow to 40 feet so it needs ample room to spread; it grows best when planted in deep, loose, well-draining soil. Linda Drew Master Gardener >>Individual: Peg Teeling >>