From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 1 00:59:26 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] August flowers in planters In-Reply-To: <200107312218.f6VMIoW14810@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: If you don't mind planting annuals that won't make it through the winter, you could buy a whole bunch of purslane (portulacca). They have fleshy leaves, grow low, and come in some pretty colors - yellow, red, etc. (There are two kinds of portulacca, but I think that that purslane has the prettiest colors and flowers. The Sunset Western Garden book calls it "essentially a weed" - but who cares if it looks nice? Also, you can supposedly use it in salad, soup, pork stew, tomato sauce and scambled eggs. I have not tried any of these culinary delights, however. I think I'll stick with salt and pepper.) They can stand the heat which is VERY important for August. If you give them plenty of water, they'll produce nice flowers. Also, I don't remember seeing these plants back east, so they may add some local interest to your plants for your NY friends. Here is a site that shows some photos http://www.ameriprod.com/purslane.htm though I've never seen the multicolor types here in stores. I just planted some purslane in my above-ground pots on the patio because I ended up with some empty pots after the geraniums finally succumbed to the heat. You can buy these plants almost anywhere. I picked mine up at Target. Just FYI, I put the whole pot into the soil. Then when they die back when it gets cold, I just remove the pot with all the dead plants in it and replace the hole with another pot full of other flowering annuals. I did this last year and it worked like a charm. Maybe someone else can come up with more ideas for you but I think flower planting is kind of limited this time of year. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of corys@southwestjet.com Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:19 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you please tell me what kind of flowers can I plant in our built into the ground planter. Folks are coming at the end of August from NY and I would like to have pretty, colorful flowers in our planters. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. PS Could you please use layman names of the flowers? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From klrpignato@aol.com Wed Aug 1 02:08:57 2001 From: klrpignato@aol.com (klrpignato@aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:08:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108010208.f7128vW10220@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Every August, my geraniums, that I have babied through June and July, turn brown and wilt. I know they don't usually do well in the summer, but there is a house in the neighborhood that has a hedge of geraniums on a west facing wall for years. What am I doing wrong? They received water 10 min on bubblers every day. Thanks for your help. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Aug 1 02:36:31 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 22:36:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers for summer bloom Message-ID: <11c.274d887.2898c52f@aol.com> Zinnias, cosmos (yellow, orange, gold), tithonia (Mexican sunflower), and moss rose (portulaca grandiflora) are easy to grow plants that do well in the summers here. They are easy to grow from seed, but I kind of doubt they would be blooming by the end of Aug if you planted the seed now. Val From strainjc@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 15:18:33 2001 From: strainjc@earthlink.net (strainjc@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 08:18:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 16:11:42 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 09:11:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Rose Care References: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <010d01c11aa4$a819b3e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The summer months in the low desert are especially tough on roses, they just hunker down and try to survive the summer. Watering at least twice a week and if they still look stressed water again. It is important to water deeply as this will wash the salts below the root level as well as encouraging the roots to grow deeper. It will help to mulch the plants which will keep the roots cooler and conserve water. If the roses have good drainage, you can will not over water them. Roses like a lot of fertilizer, so while you reduce the amount of fertilizer by half during the summer, you should not quit fertilizing altogether. Use a slow release fertilizer and fertilize every six weeks.. After fertilizing, water deeply so the fertilizer will not burn the roots.. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 8:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Aug 1 16:14:42 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 09:14:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B682AF2.2E76863E@email.sps.mot.com> Hi, Their is always a chance of mislabeled roses, but it is not common. Almost all roses have smaller roses, fewer petals, this time of year, when it is so hot. This is not uncommon for this time of year. I do not fertilize my roses at all from June through September. But if you must, I would recommend using a time released fertilizer such as Oscmote, so that you do not burn the roots on your roses. Be aware that in new growth stimulated by the fertilizer could very likely be burnt to a crisp in the heat, and wouldn't get the chance to produce much bloom anyway. In regardes to your yellow leaves, and the bareness of the canes. I suspect Spidermites. Spray your roses with a good burst of water, especially under the leaves, once every two or three days through the summer. Spidermites to not like humid wet environments. They like it dry and hot. Don't fret, your roses will come back when it cools off and provide you with wonderful blooms all the way through till Christmas, later if you let them. However I generally prune in January, in preparation for another great year of roses :) Never, ever prune your roses this time of year. You want to keep all the foilage you have to shade the canes and keep them from getting sunburnt. Alan strainjc@earthlink.net wrote: > In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sonoraleisure@qwest.net Wed Aug 1 20:45:32 2001 From: sonoraleisure@qwest.net (sonoraleisure@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108012045.f71KjWW17557@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We go out of town for 2/3 weeks at a time. Is there solution to keep the indoor potted plants alive and well for this long ?. The Ciciliatos in Gold Canyon, AZ. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 1 21:52:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 17:52:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Drip lines with filaments surrounding them Message-ID: <7b.1861c9a6.2899d438@aol.com> Michael, Thanks for sending the photos, I couldn't see detail well enough to be sure but I still think that what you are seeing are roots and especially since you told me how you are watering and with continuous watering for several weeks. You are way off target on your watering, too often and not enough water. If your bougainvillea has been in the ground for one year it requires very little water, in fact after one year I remove the drippers altogether on my bougainvillea and it rewards me with a great display of color. For the pepper tree if it is at least one year old deep watering once a week during the summer is very adequate, and by deep watering I mean running the drippers for 5 to 6 hours or until the water penetrates to adepth of 3 feet. You must get the roots down deep to get away from the hot soil surface and deep watering will help to flush the salts out of the root zone. Check out this link which will give you info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From twoluckydogs@mindspring.com Wed Aug 1 23:10:35 2001 From: twoluckydogs@mindspring.com (twoluckydogs@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:10:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108012310.f71NAZW11830@Ag.Arizona.Edu> gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 1 23:23:27 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:23:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Harvesting Dates References: <200107312233.f6VMXHW16781@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <000a01c11ae0$f96002e0$fe51530c@j0r9501> There is an out-of-print Maricopa County CES Pub. No. 8330 that contains all of the requested information. It is too lengthy to include in the email body and attachments are not permitted on this email list. But you can view it at the temporary location: http://home.att.net/~millero/dates.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a date palm and am trying to learn how to tell when they are ripe, how to harvest and how to dry? Any suggestions for where to look for this information. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 23:30:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 23:30:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vacation-time watering, indoor plants Message-ID: Hello re: vaction-time watering of indoor potted plants For me, the best solution is to hire a neighbor to come in once a week to check the house and the health of the plants and to water all potted plants. If that isn't possible, group the plants together in a cool room (70 degrees) with no direct sunlight such as a bathroom with strong indirect light. You will probably need to keep the cooler or air conditioner on during hot months. THen follow one of the following: You can purchase felt capillary mats -- one end hangs down into a reservoir of water and the mat stays constantly wet. Stand plastic pots on the wet mat. Or fill containers taller than your pots with water and and place wisks from the container down into the soil in each pot to conduct water. (Be sure wicks are all the way to the bottom of the container.) A third possiblilty is to thoroughly water the pots and allow them to drain. Group them in the bathtob. Cover the plants with plastic bags supported by stakes so the plastic doesn't touch the foliage. Tie the bag around the rim of the pot. THe only system that has worked well for me is to ask a neighbor's help -- it is amazing what can happen in three weeks if there is no one around to catch problems as they arise. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sonoraleisure@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) > >We go out of town for 2/3 weeks at a time. >Is there solution to keep the indoor potted plants alive and well for this >long ?. > >The Ciciliatos in Gold Canyon, AZ. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 23:41:51 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:41:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108012310.f71NAZW11830@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <034501c11ae3$8ab06940$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension. Yavapai County has an excellent article about gopher control. To access this article, use the following link. http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gophercontrol.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 4:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 23:46:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 23:46:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gophers Message-ID: Lethal trapping is the only method I have heard of that is effective for gophers. For details, see: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gophercontrol.html However, control is "short-term". To really deal with gophers you will need to look at management strategies that are "long-term". The most reliable pocket gopher treatment for small areas is exclusion. This is achieved by digging a trench 24-36 inches deep, and building a barrier of sheet metal, concrete, or hardware cloth. Remember, it should also extend at least 12 inches above ground. Problems with exclusion include excessively rocky soil and the occasional gopher that will dig under the barrier. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: twoluckydogs@mindspring.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:10:35 -0700 (MST) > >gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have >tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:04:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where might I sell or donate mesquite beans? References: <000801c117e2$46db27e0$b52e11cc@james> Message-ID: <3B695DED.6760D1DC@qwest.net> --------------9AE43D40F822637581427503 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are a little bit out of your neighborhood, but I know that the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix has put out a request earlier this summer to collect mesquite pods, including screwbeans which I personally have in abundance, for their ethnobotany classes. They never seem to have enough to make flour! You could contact the Tucson Botanical Gardens to see if they have a similar need. Linda Guy, MG Phoenix James W Pavlacky wrote: > Mesquite beans are bountiful this year. I have far too many squirrels > and rats living on and around my property because of the bean supply. > I would hope to sell or donate at least 10 bushels of honey mesquite > beans in late August. If you could refer me to possible recipients I > would certainly appreciate it. I live near Safford, Az, in SE > Arizona. Jim > Pavlacky --------------9AE43D40F822637581427503 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are a little bit out of your neighborhood, but I know that the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix has put out a request earlier this summer to collect mesquite pods, including screwbeans which I personally have in abundance, for their ethnobotany classes. They never seem to have enough to make flour! You could contact  the Tucson Botanical Gardens to see if they have a similar need.

Linda Guy, MG
Phoenix

James W Pavlacky wrote:

Mesquite beans are bountiful this year. I have far too many squirrels and rats living on and around my property because of the bean supply. I would hope to sell or donate at least 10 bushels of honey mesquite beans in late August. If you could refer me to possible recipients I would certainly appreciate it. I live near Safford, Az, in SE Arizona.                                                      Jim Pavlacky
--------------9AE43D40F822637581427503-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:07:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:07:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Native Legumes Seeds References: <200107301911.f6UJBHW27578@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B695EBC.420BF131@qwest.net> I've not done this personally, but have been taught and have seen replies in this server that suggest that scarification with a file is the most expedient route to go. I haven't bothered because I generally leave enough seed debris under the trees that I have volunteers the following season. This would tend to support the scarification process, since we walk over the ground and mash the pods against the decomposed granite mulch. I never lack for volunteers! Linda Guy, MG bevg521@aol.com wrote: > I have saved seeds from my Native trees > Mesquite, Palo Verde, etc. Can I soak them overnite and plant them? Any suggestions?? > tree cuttings??? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:14:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:14:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweetpotatoes References: <000c01c114b4$4c08d2c0$e3a10404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B696047.43BF39D3@qwest.net> I turned to George Brookbank's standard, Desert Gardening, to see what he suggests. Since he recommends planting in an 18" deep trench, and slowly mounding soil until the trench is filled, this should give you some idea of how much mounding to do. If they survive the summer heat, they should be ready to harvest about the time of your Thanksgiving dinner! Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jonathan Kandell > To: Organic Gardening Discussion List > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 6:37 PM > Subject: sweetpotatoes > > > I'm growing sweet potatoes. I have a bunch of long vines in a patch. Do I > > need to mound up dirt around the leaves and stems like you do with normal > > potatoes, or are they growing wonderfully under ground as the vine grows > > longer? > > > > jk > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:15:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Late Season Tomatoes References: <200107250500.f6P50tW08189@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B696099.75AFC47A@qwest.net> Most nurseries will stock some in the late summer and fall. Linda Guy, MG stutzee@att.net wrote: > I would like to know if there is any place in this area to buy tomato plants for late season planting. > I have started some from seed but young plants would have a better chance of producing before cold weather. > > Thanks > CES > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Aug 2 14:34:28 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 07:34:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: How long do black-eyed peas produce? References: <3B661DD3.32316925@totacc.com> <003001c11983$2ac2bc60$e6a10404@oemcomputer> <3B696442.4FE8A650@qwest.net> Message-ID: <002801c11b64$5b3ba680$97a20404@oemcomputer> No pest problems. Either virus or lack of fertilizer, perhaps? ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy To: Jonathan Kandell Cc: Arid_gardener Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 7:31 AM Subject: How long do black-eyed peas produce? > George Brookbank's book suggests that black-eyed peas can produce into > October. Are you having pest problems perhaps? > > Linda Guy, MG > > Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > > My black-eyed peas, planted in March, are now dying. They've produced two > > batches of beans. Is this normal for Tucson? > > > > j > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:22:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:22:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizards References: <200107250347.f6P3lsW01717@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B696209.192DE0B6@qwest.net> I don't see my lizards very often either, unless I'm out early morning or after dusk. I have some growing in my succulent collection on the front patio and see them every time I water and they scurry from the pots. The ones I see at night look like albinos, and I assume they are hidden from the sun during the daytime. I even have a few living in the house which I eventually catch and move outside when they get big enough for the dog to notice them. Linda Guy, MG jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > Thank you for the responses to my cricket problem. The answer seems to be lizards. I did some research, looking at past questions in this sight to find topics on lizards and I understand how to create a habitat for them, but I don't have lizards. I've only seen one and that was a year ago. > This may sound dumb, but do I buy them at the store, then release them? > (I must be getting into this gardening thing, a year ago I never would have dreamed of entertaining the thought of buying lizards or any other creature for that matter!) > Thanks for your response > > Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:31:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:31:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How long do black-eyed peas produce? References: <3B661DD3.32316925@totacc.com> <003001c11983$2ac2bc60$e6a10404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B696442.4FE8A650@qwest.net> George Brookbank's book suggests that black-eyed peas can produce into October. Are you having pest problems perhaps? Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > My black-eyed peas, planted in March, are now dying. They've produced two > batches of beans. Is this normal for Tucson? > > j > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From TeeMcG@aol.com Fri Aug 3 21:50:50 2001 From: TeeMcG@aol.com (TeeMcG@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 14:50:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108032150.f73Loor19142@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the best plants to put around the pool to minimize leaves in the pool? Also, what are good xeriscape plants to plant in Phoenix, AZ that have a tropical appearence (for around the pool) From ewbtcb@earthlink.net Fri Aug 3 22:02:28 2001 From: ewbtcb@earthlink.net (E & T Barts) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 16:02:28 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ??? Message-ID: <3B6B1F73.AF9080BE@earthlink.net> Somehow, your messages are being forwarded here. Please stop that! ewbtcb@earthlink.net From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Aug 3 22:03:11 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 15:03:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: [AG] Fwd: mesquite roots Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010803150305.00aafaa0@ag.arizona.edu> >X-Sent-via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ >Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 13:30:48 -0700 >From: Evans >Reply-To: laurae@azstarnet.com >Organization: tcp >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U) >X-Accept-Language: en >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Re: [AG] Fwd: mesquite roots > >You can treat them, but with the water so close, the tree will continue to be >a problem. If possible, move the garden, or raise the beds...on top of a >barrier if possible. Mesquites will seek water where they can find it. You may >also dig a large well around the tree and flood irrigate the area once a week >to keep the root zone happy. I know this isn't what you want to hear, but >trees are water hogs, and need to be treated as such. > > >Bruce Evans >Park Horticulturist >Tohono Chul Park Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 3 22:36:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:36:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree not growing Message-ID: <3b.18494da8.289c8153@aol.com> Amy, Is it correct that you have flood irrigation? If so the trees certainly don't have a problem with lack of water. Do you live iin an area that has caliche? If so when the holes were dug was caliche encountered where the sickly tree is located? If you planted the trees yourself was the sickly tree root bound? Was construction debris encountered? Have you applied a weed killer to the grass or to weeds near the tree? Do you have an olive tree nearby that was sprayed with Olive Stop? Was the soil very severely compacted? I don't believe that Superthrive would be of any help in this case, however it doesn't cost much to try it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:21:40 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:21:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Shamel Ash Message-ID: Mr. McKusick, Thank you for your prompt reply. Yes, we do use flood irrigation. We did not plant the trees ourselves it was Moon Valley Nursery. In general it would be quite common to encounter caliche in our area of the east valley but we did build in the middle of what was farming land. Mostly alfalfa and sudan grass. I dont know if disking would break it up deep enough. I do not know if the tree was root bound or not as I did not get that close to the laborers as they planted it.(humor) There should not have been any construction debris in the area and there are no olive trees on or near our property. The soil was not severely compacted as it was recently farmland. As for weed killer, maybe 2 or 3 times have I used it in the past three years. I find pulling them out gives me greater satisfaction! So there you have it. The life of my sickly shamel ash. Would it be cruel to just have it dug up and dumped? Or is there hope? As I mentioned before the accompanied tree has really thrived and is lush and green quite nice to look at. Which only contrasts the unlushness (not a word) of the other tree. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Amy Shumway From Silvirado@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:27:47 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:27:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #160 - 21 msgs Message-ID: <102.6cff47e.289c9b83@aol.com> In a message dated 7/31/2001 11:27:03 AM US Mountain Standard Time, arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: << Actually Mishelle, I also have questions regarding the classes. Adding to yours I have an additional one. Do any of the Master Gardener's work in the "industry" and if so has this info been helpful? I work in the garden department at Home Depot. We have 3 master Gardeners in my store alone. Most Nurseries do not pay very well, that is why so many MG's end up at Home Depot. A problem, if you love plants, is that profit, not plant care, is the primary focus in the 'Big Boxes'. The classes are helpful in answering questions, which are non-stop in this area of transplants trying to garden in the desert, Suzanne Years ago I worked at a local nursery as a cashier. Although I hated the cashier part I loved working with plants. I wondered if the course would (hopefully) increase my salary and (more importantly) move me out of cashier into a position where I would be working more "hands on" with plants. >> From Silvirado@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:36:44 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:36:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #160 - 21 msgs Message-ID: I just received some Ixora,( Ixora coccinea 'Maui Red' ) and can find next to nothing on it's care and behavior. Is anyone growing it in the Phoenix area? Any recommendations? Suzanne Silvir From TheCat1321@aol.com Sat Aug 4 03:40:20 2001 From: TheCat1321@aol.com (TheCat1321@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:40:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108040340.f743eKr27970@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved to Henderson Nevada in a townhouse with a relatively small grass area for my dog, golden retreiver, to play. He has adjusted, but his urine is wrecking havoc with the grass. Is there anything to put on the grass or the dog to help? From starlene@uswest.net Sat Aug 4 05:41:49 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 22:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines Message-ID: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd like to hide). I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in and out) and will be green year round. I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in Phoenix). 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so be patient. 25 seeds 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very large seeds, so packets only contain 12. Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line the porch area? In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. Thanks in advance. Starlene From umiller@azdps.com Sat Aug 4 12:18:27 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 05:18:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines In-Reply-To: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: Hi - I would suggest cat's claw which grows well in Phoenix, climbs by itself, grows fast and has flowers. You can buy this plant in most garden places and home stores. I am not familiar with the vines you listed. For previous discussions about vines at this site, you can go to http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in the word vine and click on the Search button. You can also use the word vines (or any other word that you may be interested in). You may find some other suggestions there. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Starlene Stewart Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 10:42 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd like to hide). I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in and out) and will be green year round. I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in Phoenix). 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so be patient. 25 seeds 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very large seeds, so packets only contain 12. Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line the porch area? In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. Thanks in advance. Starlene _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 4 13:37:38 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 06:37:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines References: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <001301c11cea$a381c3c0$9451530c@j0r9501> You might check the winter hardiness of the vines you researched. I believe Canary Creeper is frost tender so it may freeze out when we have another cold winter - it only grows to about 6 feet. Morning glories are classified as prohibited noxious weeds in Arizona and seed companies can not ship seeds into AZ so you may have some difficulty finding seeds of Ipomoea alba - it would probably work for you if you can get the seed but may need more sun than it gets on a northern exposure to bloom well. Most flowering vines need quite a bit of sun and most are deciduous. Your English ivy should grow well on a north wall. Algerian ivy is more vigorous. The vines we usually see on walls are cat claw, creeping fig and coral vine but I am certain there are others. Cat claw has yellow trumpet flowers when planted in full sun but will bloom less with a northern exposure. Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) and Algerian ivy are vigorous growers - both need to be cut back annually to prevent damage to the roof and eaves - the vines will find and grow through any cracks. Coral Vine (Queen's wreath) is semi deciduous but might also work for you. There are many low water use shrubs that grow to 6 feet tall and as wide that you could use if you had the space. Olin Miller From: "Starlene Stewart" > I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to > cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd > like to hide). > I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will > climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in > and out) and will be green year round. >> I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the > English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain > where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water > the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering > appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. > I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I > was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in > Phoenix). > 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM > All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this > flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and > charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, > gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves > are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here > in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush > screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some > tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" > and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like > "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this > South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. > 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 > 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER > A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain > with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual > clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love > this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can > watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then > produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for > screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so > be patient. 25 seeds > 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER > Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length > of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the > evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very > large seeds, so packets only contain 12. > Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line > the porch area? > In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow > quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? > Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the > area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about > 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. From KASKO8@aol.com Sat Aug 4 19:50:12 2001 From: KASKO8@aol.com (KASKO8@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:50:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] address change Message-ID: <6d.17d68739.289dabf4@aol.com> --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address: old address: jkasko@gateway.net new address: kasko8@aol.com My password is tuwimo Please let me know if I need to do this another way, etc. Thanks, joanne kasko --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address:
old address:  jkasko@gateway.net
new address:  kasko8@aol.com

My password is tuwimo

Please let me know if I need to do this another way, etc.
Thanks,

joanne kasko --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Aug 4 19:58:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 12:58:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizards References: <20010803170702.93038.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B6C53F5.B9862235@qwest.net> Thanks! I learn something new all the time. They are indeed as you've described, very tiny too. Linda Judy Braden wrote: > The ones you see at night are probably geckos. They > feed on night bugs. They are very pale little guys and > are very good guys to have around. > > --- Linda Guy wrote: > > I don't see my lizards very often either, unless I'm > > out early morning or after dusk. I have some growing > > in my succulent collection on the front patio and > > see them every time I water and they scurry from the > > pots. The ones I see at night look like albinos, and > > I assume they are hidden from the > > sun during the daytime. I even have a few living in > > the house which I eventually catch and move outside > > when they get big enough for the dog to notice them. > > > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > > > > > Thank you for the responses to my cricket problem. > > The answer seems to be lizards. I did some > > research, looking at past questions in this sight to > > find topics on lizards and I understand how to > > create a habitat for them, but I don't have lizards. > > I've only seen one and that was a year ago. > > > This may sound dumb, but do I buy them at the > > store, then release them? > > > (I must be getting into this gardening thing, a > > year ago I never would have dreamed of entertaining > > the thought of buying lizards or any other creature > > for that matter!) > > > Thanks for your response > > > > > > Jenn > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From jnjpein@prodigy.net Sun Aug 5 00:52:19 2001 From: jnjpein@prodigy.net (jnjpein@prodigy.net) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 17:52:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050052.f750qJr17587@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in downtown phoenix. I have an established lawn and I would like to have a person look at my lawn, tell me what kind of grasses I have and how to care for the lawn throughout the year, i.e. when to fertilize, how much watering, overseeding, etc. I am prepared to pay for this advice. Thank you From madasmith@aol.com Sun Aug 5 01:25:07 2001 From: madasmith@aol.com (madasmith@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 18:25:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050125.f751P7r19383@Ag.arizona.edu> I have ants all over my melons plants. Everything I looked at said not yo use around food products. What brand of ant killer is safe for my vegetable garden? From ainaelga@home.com Sun Aug 5 01:39:21 2001 From: ainaelga@home.com (ainaelga@home.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 18:39:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050139.f751dLr20123@Ag.arizona.edu> Please advise if this is a good time to help the roses? Mine are sad in this extreme heat.....leaves have dropped, plagued by some sort of a white-webby-cocoony thing here and there....no flowers of course. Somewhere I heard that now is an ok time to prune and feed, I think personally, wait till later....Please advise if there is a rose care schedule for the Phoenix area available to me on the web. Thanks for all your time.. aina From gizmoaz@home.com Sun Aug 5 02:14:15 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 19:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses in Summer, correction to last message... References: <200108050139.f751dLr20123@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6CABF7.33E1E13E@home.com> Sorry, in my last message I said I do not purne till July, I meant January. There are excellent rose instructions at the following website: http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/nss-folder/twelvemonthsofrosecare/ You get instructions for each of the 12 months of the year. I suspect that your white weby stuff is spidermites. You need to start spraying the undersides of your leaves with strong bursts of water 2 or 3 times a week to bring this under control. Soon it will be cooling off, and your roses will look beautiful again, and can provide beautiful blooms all the way through Christmas. You should *NOT* do any pruning until it cools off. I do not prune again until January. You want all that foilage, however little it may be to help shade your canes, and prevent sunburn, until it cools off. Good Luck!!! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 173 Rose Bushes Planted! 101 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ainaelga@home.com wrote: > Please advise if this is a good time to help the roses? Mine are sad in this extreme heat.....leaves have dropped, plagued by some sort of a white-webby-cocoony thing here and there....no flowers of course. Somewhere I heard that now is an ok time to prune and feed, I think personally, wait till later....Please advise if there is a rose care schedule for the Phoenix area available to me on the web. Thanks for all your time.. aina > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Bussefamily@AOL.Com Sun Aug 5 03:17:35 2001 From: Bussefamily@AOL.Com (Bussefamily@AOL.Com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 20:17:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050317.f753HZr28385@Ag.arizona.edu> A neighbor's Mesquite trees hang over my Tiff lawn, and now the grass under the branches has died. I have trimmed back the branches, but the grass will not grow back. I suspect the Mesquite Leaves that dropped on the lawn have ruined the soil. Is this possible, and what can I do to recondition the soil? From southpawaz@home.com Sun Aug 5 12:19:49 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 05:19:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in shade References: <200108050317.f753HZr28385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6D39E5.360D1252@home.com> Hi, The Mesquite leaves would not cause this problem. Bermuda grass does not do well in shade. If you have taken care of the shade by pruning the tree, you will probably want to go ahead and reseed or resod the area. Bussefamily@aol.com wrote: > > A neighbor's Mesquite trees hang over my Tiff lawn, and now the grass under the branches has died. I have trimmed back the branches, but the grass will not grow back. I suspect the Mesquite Leaves that dropped on the lawn have ruined the soil. Is this possible, and what can I do to recondition the soil? > -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From juanitat@w3az.net Sun Aug 5 13:05:34 2001 From: juanitat@w3az.net (juanitat@w3az.net) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 06:05:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108051305.f75D5Yr05063@Ag.arizona.edu> When do I prune and how do I divide Strelitzia reginea? What kind of fertilizer do I use and how often do I fertilize. I am located in zone 12. Thankyou From dickcarmi@aol.com Sun Aug 5 22:35:12 2001 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 15:35:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108052235.f75MZCr07830@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two Australian or Argentina willows. One has a lower branch that leaves dried up and I cut off the branch. The next branch still at a lower level is drying up and I will loose it. Rest of leaves and branches look okay at this time. The second willow is not having the branch problem. However, many of the tips of the leaves, all over the tree, are turning brown and brittle. They break off leaving a flat edge to the leaves rather than the pointed tip. The rest of the leaf looks okay and feels okay. My question, of course, is what is the problem. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 5 23:34:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 19:34:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree leaves drying and turning brown Message-ID: --part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. Check out this link for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. Check out this link for
info on proper irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary-- From whales@home.com Mon Aug 6 01:04:42 2001 From: whales@home.com (whales@home.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 18:04:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108060104.f7614gr18794@Ag.arizona.edu> I have black ants and grey water bugs in my organic garden and compost. Are these critters ok or is there an organic way to get rid of them? I have a problem with the ants attacking and biting while I try to work in the garden.....help From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 02:22:52 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 19:22:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for poolside landscapes References: <200108032150.f73Loor19142@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6DFF7C.7A2FB843@qwest.net> http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals The above link will take you to our publications page. You can view publication AZ1058 regarding plants for poolside landscapes online. Sue Bass Master Gardener TeeMcG@aol.com wrote: > What are the best plants to put around the pool to minimize leaves in the pool? > > Also, what are good xeriscape plants to plant in Phoenix, AZ that have a tropical appearence (for around the pool) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 02:30:09 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 19:30:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] California questions References: <72.d8e53e8.289733d6@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B6E0131.39648165@qwest.net> --------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It would be best if you contacted your local Cooperative Extension office for advice regarding your climate. We specialize in the low desert areas of Phoenix. You can find the phone number in the county listings of your phone book or go to: http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/coopext.htm for more information about cooperative extension services in California. Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ Hurleygram@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > The only trees that prosper in our area are live oaks and locust > trees. > Can i cut off the suckers of the locust and transplant them in more > useful > locations? > I live in the mountains between Banning, and Idllwild California, zip > code > 92220, elevation about 4000 feet. > Thank you, > Sincerely, > C.Hurley --------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It would be best if you contacted your local Cooperative Extension office for advice regarding your climate.  We specialize in the low desert areas of Phoenix.  You can find the phone number in the county listings of your phone book or go to: http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/coopext.htm
for more information about cooperative extension services in California.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Gilbert, AZ

Hurleygram@aol.com wrote:

Hello,
The only trees that prosper in our area are live oaks and locust trees.
Can i cut off the suckers of the locust and transplant them in more useful
locations?
I live in the mountains between Banning, and Idllwild California, zip code
92220, elevation about 4000 feet.
Thank you,
Sincerely,
C.Hurley
--------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946-- From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Mon Aug 6 03:58:41 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:58:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Shamel Ash Message-ID: <12b.2826d0f.289f6ff1@aol.com> Rod, Approximately how far down should I dig and what exactly will the roots look like? I' ve dug down about 8 inches and come across some thin roots but cannot idenify their nature. We have bermuda grass and I know those roots are pretty hardy. If indeed the root ball does appear to be bound what is the remedy? Is it to late to try and free them? Would we need to aerate the ground around the tree to a certain depth? Okay, different story now. My laborer (husband) dug down a bit further to approx. 18-24 inches. What we found is rather compacted dirt and few, thin roots. About 1/4 tapering to 1/8 of an inch in diameter. The hole was about 1 foot wide and within that area there were maybe a half a dozen of these little roots. Also the tree does have sporadic new growth on it. Hardly anything to sneeze at, but it is there. Can we save this pitiful creature? We're willing to try. Thanks again for all your help. Amy From cofine@yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 15:08:08 2001 From: cofine@yahoo.com (cofine@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:08:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061508.f76F88r28347@Ag.arizona.edu> need information about hydroponic tomatoes, market, broker, dealers, thanks alot From sbarvian@prodigy.net Mon Aug 6 15:40:04 2001 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (sbarvian@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:40:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061540.f76Fe4r03568@Ag.arizona.edu> An Australian Willow tree in my yard has died suddenly. The tree was planted from a 24" box about 4 1/2 years ago and had been doing fine. Another similar tree about 15 feet away is also doing fine. Both trees were getting water on drip every 7-10 days. I see no evidence of leaf damage, and no "oozing" anywhere. There is a spot on the main trunk where the bark is peeling away but I don't know if that's anything. I bought these trees because the standard desert landscaping books do not mention any susceptibility to common diseases or root rot, etc. What else should I look for to determine why the tree died? Can I plant a similar tree in the same spot? Should I treat the soil with anything? Thanks for your help. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 6 16:03:07 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 09:03:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener) hydroponic tomatoes References: <200108061508.f76F88r28347@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003301c11e91$4bb30840$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Go to WWW.Google.Com and do a search on "hydroponic tomatoes". This will give you the informnation you are looking for. Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 8:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > need information about hydroponic tomatoes, market, broker, dealers, > thanks alot > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pattiphnx@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 17:07:34 2001 From: pattiphnx@qwest.net (pattiphnx@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:07:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061707.f76H7Yr20839@Ag.arizona.edu> I need help in identifying a weed. It is usually in the lawn and has small round green leaves with a purple stem. Stems radiate out from the base. It does not pull out easily (in most cases), and often has a milky substance when broken. Broad leaf weed killers have no effect on it. If anyone knows what it is, I'd also like to know what I can do to control it. From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Mon Aug 6 17:24:54 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 13:24:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Ash(Duplicate) Message-ID: Rod, Did you recieve a detailed email on our root digging expedition that I thought I emailed over Sunday(5th) eve? This computer is a new addition and I' ve got a bit to figure out. I dont find the letter in my "sent mail" file so I'm not sure if it was successful or not. Please let me know. Thanks again, Amy From hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org Mon Aug 6 18:09:24 2001 From: hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org (hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 11:09:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree Message-ID: <61377F019B55D311A3E60008C7339B7D56BEC8@MAILSERVER> In Lakeport California Valley what kind of Pecan Tree and where can I find some to purchase? Could you send some literature about Pecan Tree Care? Heidi Bertero, 4430 Sunrise Court, Davis California, 95616 FamiliesFirst, Inc. Heidi Bertero 530-297-3124 Government Relations hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 6 21:53:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 21:53:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener) Weed in lawn Message-ID: The plant you are describing might be spotted spurge. It is an annual with prostrate stems that form a circular mat from a single taproot. It has a milky sap and a red spot on the upper center of the leaflet. Since this is an annual, an application of a pre-emergent may control it next year. Others on this list will have better contol information if the plant you have is spotted spurge - check for the red spot and taproot. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pattiphnx@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:07:34 -0700 (MST) > >I need help in identifying a weed. It is usually in the lawn and has small >round green leaves with a purple stem. Stems radiate out from the base. >It does not pull out easily (in most cases), and often has a milky >substance when broken. Broad leaf weed killers have no effect on it. If >anyone knows what it is, I'd also like to know what I can do to control it. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 6 22:28:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 18:28:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian Willow died Message-ID: --part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Much of the soil in the Arizona low desert is infected with Texas Root Rot and the only trees that are immune are palms and bamboo. Many of the desert adapted trees are resistant, but can still become a host to the fungus. Two symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( with in a week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. To positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. The root sample should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch by about 8 inches as fresh as possible, do not wash. If it is found that the tree was killed by TRR the planting spot should be treated with a chemical called Vapam and then the soil treated with steer manure, amonium sulfate and sulfur. A bulletin is available at the Cooperative Extension about Texas Root Rot and subsequent treatments. Your irrigation interval sounds ok provided you apply enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep each time you irrigate. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Much of the soil in the Arizona low desert is infected with Texas Root Rot
and the only trees that are immune are palms and bamboo. Many of the desert
adapted trees are resistant, but can still become a host to the fungus. Two
symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( with in a
week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. To
positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. The root sample
should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch by about 8 inches as fresh as possible, do not
wash. If it is found that the tree was killed by TRR the planting spot should
be treated with a chemical called Vapam and then the soil treated with steer
manure, amonium sulfate and sulfur. A bulletin is available at the
Cooperative Extension about Texas Root Rot and subsequent treatments.

Your irrigation interval sounds ok provided you apply enough water to
penetrate 3 feet deep each time you irrigate.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist


--part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 23:51:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 16:51:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: trees References: <59.e311e26.28a07976@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B6F2D7E.D5A02700@qwest.net> Why not visit the following link http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html' to locate a certified arborist. A certified Arborist is specially trained in all aspects of tree care. At the top of this link, it is suggested that you read the section entitled, "Why Hire A Certified Arborist?". Then you can locate one near you by zip code. Sue Bass Master Gardener R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > i have a variety of trees in my yard, i.e. mesquite, sweet acacia, palo brea, > and > blue palo verde. finding a qualified tree trimmer has been a bad experience. > they > are good to start and then you find they trim less and less off for the same > amount > of money. this summer i have lost one hugh blue palo verde and had four > mesquites > go down due to the winds. i need someone that is reliable and trustworthy. > is this > asking too much. please do you know of anyone. appreciate your assistance. From sbarvian@prodigy.net Tue Aug 7 00:31:09 2001 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 17:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Australian Willow died References: Message-ID: <001b01c11ed8$423abf00$6ce4ffd1@barvian> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable "Two symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( = with in a=20 week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. " Yes, both of these things happened to my tree. "To positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative=20 Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam." I think I'll do that. Thanks for the pointers. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
"Two symptoms that point to = Texas Root Rot=20 are rapid death of a tree( with in a
week or two ) and leaves that = cling to=20 the tree after they turn brown. "
 
Yes, both of these things = happened to my=20 tree.
 
"To positively ID TRR take a = root sample to=20 Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix = 85040 for a=20 lab exam."
 
I think I'll do that.  = Thanks for the=20 pointers.
 
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0-- From ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov Tue Aug 7 22:23:22 2001 From: ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov (ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 15:23:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108072223.f77MNMr17931@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything out there right now that has been found to be an effective treatment for pearl scale? Either alone or in conjunction with other things? Thanks. sds From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 7 22:38:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 18:38:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lemon tree Message-ID: --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob, The most important thing that you can do for citrus if you live in the low desert is to make sure that they are watered and fertilized properly. Start out by checking out this link which will explain in detail hoow to water citrus properly: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 The next thing you should do is to get the bulletin titlled Citrus Care in the Home Yard from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob,
The most important thing that you can do for citrus if you live in the low
desert is to make sure that they are watered and fertilized properly. Start
out by checking out this link which will explain in detail hoow to water
citrus properly:  www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151
The next thing you should do is to get the bulletin titlled Citrus Care in
the Home Yard from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway,
Phoenix 85040
for $1.00

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 7 23:13:37 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 19:13:37 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: question for RodMcQ Message-ID: <21.f5037b6.28a1d021@aol.com> --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are innumerable different scales that are found on horticultural plants and treatments will differ. If you live in the Phoenix area I would suggest that you take the insect to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 to find out which scale you have. When that is determined they will probably be able to help you in recommending a treatment. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There  are innumerable different scales that are found on horticultural
plants and treatments will differ. If you live in the Phoenix area I would
suggest that you take the insect to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension,
4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 to find out which scale you have. When that
is determined they will probably be able to help you in recommending a
treatment.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 7 23:58:52 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 16:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: mexican bird of paradise] Message-ID: <3B7080BC.262192F2@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 29270 invoked by uid 0); 7 Aug 2001 04:41:36 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Aug 2001 04:41:36 -0000 Received: (qmail 34071 invoked by uid 0); 7 Aug 2001 04:41:32 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-r02.mx.aol.com) (152.163.225.98) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Aug 2001 04:41:32 -0000 Received: from My4thtee@cs.com by imo-r02.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v31.9.) id z.7b.18ad91c2 (4592); Tue, 7 Aug 2001 00:41:26 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 00:41:25 EDT Message-ID: <7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75@cs.com> From: My4thtee@cs.com To: lindaguy@qwest.net Cc: My4thtee@cs.com Subject: mexican bird of paradise MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary" X-Mailer: CompuServe 2000 6.0 for Windows US sub 10501 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed a brief discussion where there was some question rather the "mexican" was the subject of the question. Anyway, I bought one and it was healthy when arriving home in Sun City AZ; the stalk was quite thick and healthy, seemingly too large for the delicate stems growing from it. I left it in the nursery can for a few weeks and the top turned brown before I could plant it. Question: Is the whole plant dead? Or can I trust the size of the stalk to renew growth when I plant it? Professional Landscapers in Scottsdale are very generous with this plant in tract homes and Kierland Golf Course. It seems to need very little water and care. Thank You for any information. I really like the color of this shrub. --part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed a brief discussion where there was some question rather the
"mexican"  was the subject of the question.  Anyway, I bought one and it was
healthy when arriving home in Sun City AZ; the stalk was quite thick and
healthy, seemingly too large for the delicate stems growing from it.  I left
it in the nursery can for a few weeks and the top turned brown before I could
plant it.  Question:  Is the whole plant dead? Or can I trust the size of the
stalk to renew growth when I plant it?  
Professional Landscapers in Scottsdale are very generous with this plant in
tract homes and Kierland Golf Course.  It seems to need very little water and
care.
Thank You for any information.  I really like the color of this shrub.
--part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary-- --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 8 00:58:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:58:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Star Jasmine References: <000e01c11a23$63479e20$ed3111d0@computer> Message-ID: <3B708EB9.61E29799@qwest.net> --------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It may prefer north and eastern exposures in the low desert of Phoenix http://azcentral.plantadviser.com/plants/tracjasm.htm but you should note that it is damaged at 20 degrees. I have read in more than one website that at your latitude, it is probably grown as a houseplant. http://www.plantideas.com/in/in44.html Any common search engine will turn up a number of sources for the plant. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chalkhillclematis/vitvenvialco.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Amy and Shane wrote: > Hi, I ran accross a message written by you on a message board > concerning the vine "star jasmine" I would love to order some of this > beautiful vine, and it sounds like you know alot about it. Could you > tell me if it is winter hardy to zone 6? I live in Maryland. Thanks > alot. --------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It may prefer north and eastern exposures in the low desert of Phoenix  http://azcentral.plantadviser.com/plants/tracjasm.htm
but you should note that it is damaged at 20 degrees.

I have read in more than one website that at your latitude, it is probably grown as a houseplant.  http://www.plantideas.com/in/in44.html

Any common search engine will turn up a number of sources for the plant.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chalkhillclematis/vitvenvialco.html

Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG

Amy and Shane wrote:

Hi, I ran accross a message written by you on a message board concerning the vine "star jasmine" I would love to order some of this beautiful vine, and it sounds like you know alot about it. Could you tell me if it is winter hardy to zone 6? I live in Maryland. Thanks alot.
--------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 8 00:53:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:53:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ixora References: Message-ID: <3B708D74.95B80D0D@qwest.net> This is what I found using a common search engine. Evidently it's a common blooming plant of Panama, although another source lists it as a native of Asia. http://www.hortpix.com/pc2328.htm hhttp://davesgarden.com/plants/genus/Ixora/ http://www.odedodea.edu/sites/balboa/ixora.html http://www.klahanie.ca/ixora.htm http://www.floridaplants.com/horticulture/ixora.htm http://www.floridagardener.com/pom/ixora.htm Linda Guy, MG Silvirado@aol.com wrote: > I just received some Ixora,( Ixora coccinea 'Maui Red' ) and can find next > to nothing on it's care and behavior. Is anyone growing it in the Phoenix > area? Any recommendations? > > Suzanne Silvir > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rmoy@dancris.com Wed Aug 8 17:06:31 2001 From: rmoy@dancris.com (rmoy@dancris.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:06:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081706.f78H6Ur10623@Ag.arizona.edu> I cannot get a citrus tree to grow. I buy the best, Monrovia, and plant them in large containers on my patio. They start off super, then all the leaves fall off. Are they dead? Will the leaves come back in the fall? Should I just buy grapefruit and lemons at the grocery store? Thank you for any words of wisdom!!!!! From ValWatkins1@Home.com Wed Aug 8 18:04:20 2001 From: ValWatkins1@Home.com (ValWatkins1@Home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:04:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081804.f78I4Kr20560@Ag.arizona.edu> Just how far should mesquite trees be cut back? I also have a split on a branch,should I spray the affected branch with pruning spray? The branch is 13inches in diameter. From ValWatkins1@Home.com Wed Aug 8 18:05:34 2001 From: ValWatkins1@Home.com (ValWatkins1@Home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:05:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081805.f78I5Yr20726@Ag.arizona.edu> Just how far should mesquite trees be cut back? I also have a split on a branch,should I spray the affected branch with pruning spray? The branch is 13inches in diameter. Valerie J. Watkins From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 8 21:58:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:58:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite with a broken branch Message-ID: <6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b@aol.com> --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the branch is located where it would become a hazzard if it broke off it should be removed right away. The crack in the tree will never heal so removing the branch could possibly be a way of saving the tree.The use of a pruning sealer is no longer recommended, it simply provides a cover for bacteria. It sounds as if the tree may be too large to be pruned without special equuipment. I suggest that you call a Certified Arborist. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the branch is located where it would become a hazzard if it broke off it
should be removed right away. The crack in the tree will never heal so
removing the branch could possibly be a way of saving the tree.The use of a
pruning sealer is no longer recommended, it simply provides a cover for
bacteria. It sounds as if the tree may be too large to be pruned without
special equuipment. I suggest that you call a Certified Arborist.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 8 22:09:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:09:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaves falling off Message-ID: <5b.19dd1843.28a31299@aol.com> --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When citrus leaves fall off it usually is due to some type of stress, and most often that stress is caused by improper irrigation. I suggest that you give your tree more water. Check out this link for info on irrigating citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When citrus leaves fall off it usually is due to some type of stress, and
most often that stress is caused by improper irrigation. I suggest that you
give your tree more water. Check out this link for info on irrigating citrus:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary-- From oatnut@home.com Wed Aug 8 23:33:55 2001 From: oatnut@home.com (oatnut@home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:33:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108082333.f78NXtr17737@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 banana yuccas, 1 in a pot, 1 in the ground. They both are overgrown. Is it possible to cut off a branch and transplant it? From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 8 23:29:54 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:29:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potted Citrus Dying In-Reply-To: <200108081706.f78H6Ur10623@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi - I just HAD to respond to you when I saw your question because of your grocery store comment. It made me feel so bad for you. As Rod mentions, the problem may be your watering techniques. Here is some text from my citrus book. It specifically addresses container citrus plants: Plants grown in containers require more frequent watering than those grown in the ground. Dark-colored containers will dry out faster than light-colored ones and prous pots make of wood or clay will dry out fatster than the nonporous plastic. Apply enough water so that the entire rootball becomes wet. This may take several passes with the hose. Make sure the water is not just running down the space between the rootball and the container, a common occurrence if the plant has gone long without water. In areas with salty water, such as the Southwest, be sure to leach the soil well by adding enough water so that 10 to 20 percent of the wate rapplied drains from the bottom of the container. You can get a good idea as to whether a plants needs water by gently tipping its container. If it feels light, the plant needs water; if it feels heavy the plant can probably go a while longer. I hope this helps so that you don't have to go to the grocery store. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of rmoy@dancris.com Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:07 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I cannot get a citrus tree to grow. I buy the best, Monrovia, and plant them in large containers on my patio. They start off super, then all the leaves fall off. Are they dead? Will the leaves come back in the fall? Should I just buy grapefruit and lemons at the grocery store? Thank you for any words of wisdom!!!!! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Tanveerj5721@aol.com Thu Aug 9 01:07:23 2001 From: Tanveerj5721@aol.com (Tanveerj5721@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:07:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090107.f7917Nr04281@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted catsclaw in my backyard which has gone to the tile roof. My neighbor told me that the catsclaw can make the tiles loose and they will fall off. I want to know if this is true? Please e-mail the answer. Thanks From fscapellit@mindspring.com Thu Aug 9 01:42:33 2001 From: fscapellit@mindspring.com (fscapellit@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:42:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090142.f791gXr08340@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Queen Palms have a bulge in the upper part of the trunk. What could that be. I thought all trees had uniform trunk shape. Thank you. From Birds113@aol.com Thu Aug 9 02:28:32 2001 From: Birds113@aol.com (Birds113@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 19:28:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090228.f792SWr13388@Ag.arizona.edu> My Texas Umbrella tree lost 2 large limbs and the bark is torn from the South side of the tree, from the "Y" where the trunk joins the branches, to a foot from the ground. Essentially, half of the bark is gone. This occurred during a windstorm yesterday. What can I do to keep this tree alive? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 9 03:02:26 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:02:26 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree damage in storm Message-ID: <12b.2adc3ae.28a35742@aol.com> --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but there isn't anything that you can do to save your tree. The tree's circulation system is in the bark and when you lose half of the bark the tree probably will not last long. I suggest replacing the tree. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but there isn't anything that you can do to save your tree. The tree's
circulation system is in the bark and when you lose half of the bark  the
tree probably will not last long. I suggest replacing the tree.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary-- From nicolori@webtv.net Thu Aug 9 03:44:59 2001 From: nicolori@webtv.net (nicolori@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 20:44:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090344.f793ixr25872@Ag.arizona.edu> Several months ago we planted a Shamel Ash tree. The leaves are starting to turn yellow...what is it lacking? From gjhadden@msn.com Thu Aug 9 13:38:16 2001 From: gjhadden@msn.com (??? ???) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 06:38:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mistletoe removal ... best season to do it? Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We just bought a home in the desert with many Palo Verde Trees some of wh= ich have one of two mistletoe's attached... is there a "bad" time to remo= ve these parasites? An optimal time? Also is there anyone you may recomme= nd that we could pay to come out to our home to do a walk through inspect= ion of our plant life? Thank you. ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We just bought= a home in the desert with many Palo Verde Trees some of which have one o= f two mistletoe's attached... is there a "bad" time to remove these paras= ites? An optimal time? Also is there anyone you may recommend that we cou= ld pay to come out to our home to do a walk through inspection of our pla= nt life? Thank you.

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120-- From lizmiles@home.com Thu Aug 9 17:32:13 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 10:32:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus Message-ID: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> I recently bought several red hibiscus trees (about 5' tall) and planted them in large pots (with drainage) around my pool in full sun. They have lost some of their original fullness and some leaves are yellowing. They don't have the same deep green leaf color they came with. They do produce flowers. I have also noticed tiny ants on the trunks, which I also see in the river rocks around the pool. Am I watering too much or too little? Do they need something like Miracle Grow? We are having guests in 2 weeks and I would really like them to look lush by then. Thanks so much. Liz Miles From s2@auroranow.org Thu Aug 9 17:55:20 2001 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 10:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus References: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> Message-ID: <3B72CE88.62285094@auroranow.org> Liz, Hibiscus do best here in the low desert out of full afternoon sun. They like regular water, but good drainage, and not too much wind. Feed them with a palm fertilizer. (not a master gardener) -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Aug 9 18:03:21 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:03:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus References: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> Message-ID: <3B72D069.2A092DDC@email.sps.mot.com> Liz, I read, and have used with great success Palm Tree fertilizer for my hibiscus. I was having the same problems you mention below when using Miracle Grow and some of the other water soluble fertilizers. You could be watering too much as well. You do not mention how often you water. If they are in pots, I would probably water every other day, maybe even every day if they are in full sun. If you can, put mulch on top to keep the roots cool and the moisture in the pot. You must soak the pots good, to flush out all the salts when you do water. Last but not least, it is white fly season. They suck the moisture out of your leaves, thus they turn yellow and fall off. Spray the undersides of your leaves on your Hibiscus every time you water, with a strong jet of water. This will help keep the white flies under control. I spray the undersides of the leaves till I don't see any white flies flying around the plant anymore. There are some great web sites out there on hibiscus. Get onto http://www.google.com and type in hibiscus as your search word, you will find lots of references on hibiscus there. I must emphasize that since I switched from miracle grow type fertilizers to palm tree food, I have seen a 100% improvement in my hibiscus. Try to get a time released fertilizer if you can so it does not burn the roots so easily. Otherwise, water, then put on the fertilizer, then water again. Good luck! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 173 Rose Bushes Planted! 101 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Liz Miles wrote: > I recently bought several red hibiscus trees (about 5' tall) and planted > them in large pots (with drainage) around my pool in full sun. They have > lost some of their original fullness and some leaves are yellowing. > They don't have the same deep green leaf color they came with. They do > produce flowers. I have also noticed tiny ants on the trunks, which I > also see in the river rocks around the pool. Am I watering too much or > too little? Do they need something like Miracle Grow? We are having > guests in 2 weeks and I would really like them to look lush by then. > > Thanks so much. > > Liz Miles > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 9 21:14:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:14:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shamel Ash with yellow leaves Message-ID: --part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The most common causes of yellow leaves on plants are either over or under watering. The following link will give you information on proper watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The most common causes of yellow leaves on plants are either over or under
watering. The following link will give you information on proper watering:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary-- From ewnowlin@home.com Thu Aug 9 23:45:07 2001 From: ewnowlin@home.com (ewnowlin@home.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:45:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108092345.f79Nj7r03513@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a section of my lot where nothing seems to grow for more than 6 months to a year. Every plant seems to get sick after this period. I was advised that you may have a soil analysis service, where one can bring a sample in for testing. Is this true and would you advise me of details and procedures and costs etc? Thank you very much. Ernie Nowlin From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:08:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:08:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil Labs References: <200108092345.f79Nj7r03513@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B732615.A6E486B2@qwest.net> A listing of labs is located in our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Linda Guy, MG ewnowlin@home.com wrote: > I have a section of my lot where nothing seems to grow for more than 6 months to a year. Every plant seems to get sick after this period. I was advised that you may have a soil analysis service, where one can bring a sample in for testing. Is this true and would you advise me of details and procedures and costs etc? Thank you very much. > > Ernie Nowlin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:16:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:16:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: How long do black-eyed peas produce? References: <3B661DD3.32316925@totacc.com> <003001c11983$2ac2bc60$e6a10404@oemcomputer> <3B696442.4FE8A650@qwest.net> <002801c11b64$5b3ba680$97a20404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B7327DA.F3B12176@qwest.net> These are strong nitrogen fixers so are good to grow even in poor soil. I don't think it's a fertilizer issue, although I must confess not to having ever grown them. As I recall, you are in Tucson, and I wonder if one of the MGs in the Pima County Extension Office has any ideas for what may be going on out your way. 520/626-5161 Could you be overcoddling them [too much water, shade, etc.]? These guys are said to really take a lot of heat and still produce. The reference to sweet potatoes can be found using the index in the back of Brookbank's book. Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > No pest problems. Either virus or lack of fertilizer, perhaps? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda Guy > To: Jonathan Kandell > Cc: Arid_gardener > Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 7:31 AM > Subject: How long do black-eyed peas produce? > > > George Brookbank's book suggests that black-eyed peas can produce into > > October. Are you having pest problems perhaps? > > > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > > > > My black-eyed peas, planted in March, are now dying. They've produced > two > > > batches of beans. Is this normal for Tucson? > > > > > > j > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:27:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:27:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca plants-HELP! References: <000a01c1181e$96794520$89107ad5@computer> Message-ID: <3B732A81.223AA68D@qwest.net> --------------6D90967E929AFA919105C84A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are many yuccas, so I need to give you some general advice. Here in the desert, they are usually planted where you intend them to grow over time, not transplanting easily. Their growth is at the terminals [bud tips] so if you are proposing to cut them off at that end to fit them into your conservatory, you will likely 'end' your plant. I'm wondering if you can't reduce the stem with layering: see the plant propogation chapter of the online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html I'm not sure this will work on yuccas. Why not call the Desert Botanical Gardens here in Phoenix during their plant hotline hours [M-F 10 - 11:30 am 480/941-1225] to see if they have any other suggestions? Good luck. Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Batt wrote: > Hi there, I have a large Yucca plant growing in my conservatory and it > needs to be cut back a bit as the leaves are right next to the roof.I > have been told that I can cut it back when the sap stops rising-but > when does this happen???Is it also correct that after cutting you > should drip candle wax on the stalk??? I look forward to your > reply. Kind regards, Jonathan Batt. --------------6D90967E929AFA919105C84A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are many yuccas, so I need to give you some general advice. Here in the desert, they are usually planted where you intend them to grow over time, not transplanting easily. Their growth is at the terminals [bud tips] so if you are proposing to cut them off at that end to fit them into your conservatory, you will likely 'end' your plant.

I'm wondering if you can't reduce the stem with layering: see the plant propogation chapter of the online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html

I'm not sure this will work on yuccas. Why not call the Desert Botanical Gardens here in Phoenix during their plant hotline hours [M-F 10 - 11:30 am 480/941-1225] to see if they have any other suggestions? Good luck.

Linda Guy, MG

Jonathan Batt wrote:

Hi there, I have a large Yucca plant growing in my conservatory and it needs to be cut back a bit as the leaves are right next to the roof.I have been told that I can cut it back when the sap stops rising-but when does this happen???Is it also correct that after cutting you should drip candle wax on the stalk??? I look forward to your reply.  Kind regards,  Jonathan Batt.
--------------6D90967E929AFA919105C84A-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:32:25 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:32:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palms in Hawaii References: <200107301904.f6UJ4jW26157@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B732B99.41616772@qwest.net> Yours is sure to be a vastly different soil condition than ours which is alkaline and contains little organic material. Your weather conditions are also apt to be quite a bit more temperate and moist. I don't grow dates, but since they seem to come from the arid desert climes of the world, I'd think that would be a major issue for you to overcome. Why not contact our counterparts at your local cooperative extension office [usually in the county government listings in the phone book]. Please also ask the question about whether this type of palm would be considered invasive or a nuisance plant if you ever get it growing well and volunteers pop up. Linda Guy, MG jlq@interpac.net wrote: > Aloha, I live in Hawaii and recently successfully germinated date palm seeds sent to me by my father from his tree in Phoenix, AZ. They grew to seedlings of 7to 8 inches, and 2 weeks ago I transplanted them into the ground. They were doing great, but now the tips of the leaves are turning yellow and then brown and seem to be dying out. Any help or info on what the problem may be? I would appreciate any input you may have, as I don't want to loose them if I can help it! If you need more info from me, please let me know. > Mahalo Nui Loa, > Joanne Quickel > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:39:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:39:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Growing Zone for Bougainvilleas References: <000a01c11c79$e2318040$6661fea9@computer> Message-ID: <3B732D2A.587E3908@qwest.net> They are extremely frost sensitive and do best in areas a minimal winter cold. Having said that, I noted some comments in the Sunset Western Garden Book where they even grow in some zones of the Pacific Northwest when the home gardener uses the shrubbier types that are grown as container plants, moved to protected areas in winter. "Where frosts are routine, vines should be given protected warm wall or warmest spot in garden. If vines get by first winter or two they will be big enough to take most winter damage and recover." If you ever transplant watch those roots! They are particularly fragile and do not like being jostled a bit. Recommended method is to cut off bottom of container, place in the new larger pot, slice down sides, back fill dirt, then remove the pieces of the old container. Linda Guy, MG Jim and Cathey Bishop wrote: > We bought a potted bougainvillea in late Spring and it is doing very well > hanging in direct sunlight all day. Not being gardeners we don't know if we > should bring the plant in for the winter. It is not uncommon in Oklahoma > for a day that is a balmy 55 - 60 degrees at 10AM to change to blizzard > conditions by 4PM. What are the limits for bougainvilleas? If they can > survive our seasons we would like to plant several of them. > Jim Bishop From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:41:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:41:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dog Urine on Turf References: <200108040340.f743eKr27970@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B732DD2.87E5F751@qwest.net> Lots of water to dilute the urine. Both in the dog and on the lawn, though the latter was my focus! Try to train him to go in an area that isn't very visible, and try to have him go more often so that each evacuation is less in volume. If your patch is that small, just follow him with the watering can after he's done. Linda Guy, MG TheCat1321@aol.com wrote: > I recently moved to Henderson Nevada in a townhouse with a relatively small grass area for my dog, golden retreiver, to play. He has adjusted, but his urine is wrecking havoc with the grass. Is there anything to put on the grass or the dog to help? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:43:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:43:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Specialists References: <200108050052.f750qJr17587@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B732E40.3D18C2E@qwest.net> Your question may have already elicited some offers from other members of this list server who are in the profession. However, as an extension of the UA we are not permitted to recommend specific people/specialists. Have you asked your neighbors about their lawn care specialists? Linda Guy, MG jnjpein@prodigy.net wrote: > I live in downtown phoenix. I have an established lawn and I would like to have a person look at my lawn, tell me what kind of grasses I have and how to care for the lawn throughout the year, i.e. when to fertilize, how much watering, overseeding, etc. I am prepared to pay for this advice. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:49:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:49:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strelitzia reginea References: <200108051305.f75D5Yr05063@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B732F90.4E4DF813@qwest.net> They do best when they are tightly clumped, so divide them infrequently. Most of the bloom occurs during the cooler season which is when I suppose I'd apply fertilizer. Though, in truth, I had some in a rather confined space and didn't want to encourage too much growth, so I never used fertilizer beyond the initial bed preparation. I didn't want to risk fostering foliage over bloom. I also trimmed off the dried leaves as they arose, and did not do a specific pruning task at a set time of year. Linda Guy, MG juanitat@w3az.net wrote: > When do I prune and how do I divide Strelitzia reginea? What kind of fertilizer do I use and how often do I fertilize. I am located in zone 12. > Thankyou > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 00:54:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 17:54:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree References: <61377F019B55D311A3E60008C7339B7D56BEC8@MAILSERVER> Message-ID: <3B7330C3.430053F9@qwest.net> You will be better served with the advice of our counterparts at your local county cooperative extension office. In the county's listings of the phone book. Linda Guy, MG hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org wrote: > In Lakeport California Valley what kind of Pecan Tree and where can I find > some to purchase? Could you send some literature about Pecan Tree Care? > Heidi Bertero, 4430 Sunrise Court, Davis California, 95616 > > FamiliesFirst, Inc. > Heidi Bertero > 530-297-3124 > Government Relations > hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From amysaroca@earthlink.net Fri Aug 10 02:07:16 2001 From: amysaroca@earthlink.net (amysaroca@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 19:07:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108100207.f7A27Gr18898@Ag.arizona.edu> Why are toilet bowls used in landscapes in Arizona? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Aug 10 02:13:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 19:13:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yuccas References: <200108082333.f78NXtr17737@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B73434E.79EDCD4@qwest.net> I've never done so personally, but let me direct you to the asexual propogation chapter of the Master Gardener Manual for techniques for cuttings and layering. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Linda Guy, MG oatnut@home.com wrote: > I have 2 banana yuccas, 1 in a pot, 1 in the ground. They both are overgrown. Is it possible to cut off a branch and transplant it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Aug 10 14:08:31 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 07:08:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108100207.f7A27Gr18898@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B73EADF.319DC050@email.sps.mot.com> I've never seen one used in Landscape design myself. I must be in the wrong neighborhood...but I suspect that it is an odd twist on humor :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 173 Rose Bushes Planted! 101 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! amysaroca@earthlink.net wrote: > Why are toilet bowls used in landscapes in Arizona? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jonwiggins@home.com Fri Aug 10 14:30:57 2001 From: jonwiggins@home.com (jonwiggins@home.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 07:30:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108101430.f7AEUvr20180@Ag.arizona.edu> Help! I have nut grass invading my new lawn. I would like to find a safe alternative that will not harm my dog. I do not use herbicides or pesticides. Currently I am using corn gluten in my granite covered areas. Thanks Also --natural-- gopher remover. Do you have any experience with safe alternatives. I have heard about wrigleys spearmint gum. :) From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 10 16:48:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:48:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm with a bulge in the trunk Message-ID: --part1_e0.18b7f1dd.28a56a4a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I susect that during the year or years that the bulge formed on the trunk of your queen palm it received an abudance of water and fertilizer which would have made it grow more than normal. Also if the fronds were left on the tree this would have accelerated the growth. Likewise if in one particular year the palm had less than normal water and or fertilizer and too many of the fronds were removed the trunk would most lkely be smaller than usual. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_e0.18b7f1dd.28a56a4a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I susect that during the year or years that the bulge formed on the trunk of
your queen palm it received an abudance of water and fertilizer which would
have made it grow more than normal. Also if the fronds were left on the tree
this would have accelerated the growth. Likewise if in one particular year
the palm had less than normal water and or fertilizer and  too many of the
fronds were removed the trunk would most lkely be smaller than usual.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_e0.18b7f1dd.28a56a4a_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 10 16:48:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 12:48:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: rose problems Message-ID: --part1_e8.18eb9f8f.28a56a4c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy, The problems that you describe with your roses are quite common in summer for roses grown in the low desert. The photos that you sent didn't come through so I have to go by your description. The blackened canes and cane die back is described in the American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian Manual as a canker fungus which gains access to the rose cane when the rose is pruned and too much stem is left above the bud eye, or from any type of injury to the cane. The fungus will spread and eventually kill the whole cane. Control consists of good cultural practices, pruning correctly, avoiding injury to the canes, and fungicidal sprays such as Manzate,Maneb or Daconil. When I notice a black spot starting on a rose cane I either remove the cane or cut it off well below the spot. The browning leaves are caused by salt burn, sun and wind burn. The salt is left when the water that we apply evaporates. We can help that situation by always deep watering and at least once a month during the summer doubling the amount of water that we apply. Applications of gypsum will also help to remove the salt from the root zone. Locating the roses where there is PM shade and wind protection is a definite help. That not being possible shade screen over the roses is very helpful. A 3 to 4 inch mulch and washing down the rose bushes at least once a week during the hot weather is also beneficial. Another cause of leaf burn is applying too much fertilizer during the hot weather, fertilizer should be applied at half rate during the summer. If you live in Maricopa county or whereever you live and you love roses I would suggest that you investigate joining one of the 5 rose societies located in the valley or close to your home. Each one of the societies has at least one Consulting Rosarian and they are pledged to help people grow better roses. If you live in the East Valley why not come to the next meeting of the Mesa East Valley Rose Society which meets the 2nd thursday of each month at 7:00 PM at Mesa Community College in the Kiva room of the Student Center. Enjoy good fellowship and the latest in caring for roses and while you are there enjoy the 3500 Roses in the Mesa Community College Rose Garden which our society planted and supervises its care. If you live in another part of the valley, addresses are available on our website. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian > > --part1_e8.18eb9f8f.28a56a4c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Judy,
The problems that you describe with your roses are quite common in summer for
roses grown in the low desert. The photos that you sent didn't come through
so I have to go by your description. The blackened canes and cane die back is
described in the American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian Manual as a canker
fungus which gains access to the rose cane when the rose is pruned and too
much stem is left above the bud eye, or from any type of injury to the cane.
The fungus will spread and eventually kill the whole cane. Control consists
of good cultural practices, pruning correctly,  avoiding injury to the canes,
and fungicidal sprays such as Manzate,Maneb or Daconil. When I notice a black
spot starting on a rose cane I either remove the cane or cut it off well
below the spot.

The browning leaves are caused by salt burn, sun and wind burn. The salt is
left when the water that we apply evaporates. We can help that situation by
always deep watering and at least once a month during the summer doubling the
amount of water that we apply. Applications of gypsum will also help to
remove the salt from the root zone. Locating the roses where there is PM
shade and wind protection is a definite help. That not being possible shade
screen over the roses is very helpful. A 3 to 4 inch mulch and washing down
the rose bushes at least once a week during the hot weather is also
beneficial. Another cause of leaf burn is applying too much fertilizer during
the hot weather, fertilizer should be applied at half rate during the summer.

If you live in Maricopa county or whereever you live and you love roses I
would suggest that you investigate joining one of the 5 rose societies
located in the valley or close to your home. Each one of the societies has at
least one Consulting Rosarian and they are pledged to help people grow better
roses.  If you live in the East Valley why not come to the next meeting of
the Mesa East Valley Rose Society which meets the 2nd thursday of each month
at 7:00 PM at Mesa Community College in the Kiva room of the Student Center.
Enjoy good fellowship and the latest in caring for roses and while you are
there enjoy the 3500 Roses in the Mesa Community College Rose Garden which
our society planted and supervises its care.

If you live in another part of the valley, addresses are available on our
website.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian







--part1_e8.18eb9f8f.28a56a4c_boundary-- From bill.weniger@home.com Fri Aug 10 17:16:17 2001 From: bill.weniger@home.com (Bill Weniger) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:16:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12185.7E496230 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0001_01C12185.7E496230" ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C12185.7E496230 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Maize Bill Weniger bill.weniger@home.com Chandler, AZ last august I planted a 15 gal Palo Brea tree. It seems to be growing quite a lot. MY problem is that it seems to be growing "out" not up. What is the best method of pruning this tree? I have photos if you need them . Thank you for your help. ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C12185.7E496230 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Maize
 
Bill Weniger
bill.weniger@home.com
Chandler, AZ
 

last august I planted = a 15 gal=20 Palo Brea tree. It seems to be growing quite a lot.  MY problem is = that it=20 seems to be growing  "out" not up.  What is the best method of = pruning=20 this tree?
 
I have photos  if you need them = .  Thank=20 you for your help. 
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L6vyFeNP3da0rTfp7Zjx8Hijw3dGq4uXXi/49/FfVyJeJwSvlxb8r4vvTrMpx3YqselBypSo++u3 44nh/irpz772+NqL6IW0+o8rn6j6BPrN9b9Hj/fbcufH9rxrvlUPC4jwVe11V+Vtk+OhxXy2vu8k blrWgrVeERAkmlBkkNZwQ4q7GgqAeI6L7U65DBDgxj1GX9bn9w+3dnlNnkBsOXu+/v8ANG5Ng7FV CVGkVQszwEOjFowpJCsCVPIMKMBQ96HYg74J9Lvn0/HL8Ha0q+FDsVdirsVULjhwX1OVPUSnHlWv Mcfs+9K9qddq4Dw/xJC9uPFudKftH2wZuHwzx/Tv92/2LHnsttvQ9CL6tw+r8R6Ijpx49qU2wx4f 4eSZXe/NWwsUDHGFvrqT6xM7SJFWBx+7QCtCh4jr33OUxiPEkQd6Fj+3p7ut9W2UiYRFDmd+p96O y5qdiqHjkkkj5PBJCwLqI2KkkKxAb4WYfEBUb1od6HbCDLhut+78bX+nrW6v/9k= ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12185.7E496230-- From hotdesertduo@cableaz.com Fri Aug 10 17:29:00 2001 From: hotdesertduo@cableaz.com (hotdesertduo@cableaz.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:29:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108101729.f7AHT0r17286@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a type of clover(I think)groundcover invading my Bermuda grass lawn. Each stem has 3 heart shaped leaves about a 1/4 inch wide and about every square foot has a tiny yellow flower with 5 petals. It grows very thick and short and is gradually choking out the Bermuda. I think it looks better than the Bermuda grass and seems to thrive in the heat of this area. My Wife thinks that it is a type of weed and will eventually kill all the Bermuda. What should I do? From umiller@azdps.com Fri Aug 10 17:00:44 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 10:00:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jasmine Vine Problems Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C12183.51EB6BE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This is a message to maf13429@aol.com who had a problem with browning jasmine vines last month. I noticed today that my vine is now getting new growth and that even a couple of the dead-looking branches are sprouting green leaves. (I didn't have much in the way of dead branches -- just a couple and this was the first year that that has happened.) Anyway, I hope yours is resurrecting itself. Even though the temperatures are still high, I think that the humidity and the shorter days are helping out. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C12183.51EB6BE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
This is a message = to maf13429@aol.com who had a problem = with=20 browning jasmine vines last month.  I noticed today that my vine is now = getting new=20 growth and that even a couple of the dead-looking branches are sprouting = green=20 leaves.  (I didn't have much in the way of dead branches -- just a = couple=20 and this was the first year that that has happened.)  Anyway, I = hope yours=20 is resurrecting itself.
 
Even though the = temperatures=20 are still high, I think that the humidity and the shorter days are = helping=20 out. 
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01C12183.51EB6BE0-- From lvkisshugs@home.com Fri Aug 10 20:37:24 2001 From: lvkisshugs@home.com (lvkisshugs@home.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 13:37:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108102037.f7AKbOr20539@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there any where on the web, where there are home pages of Arizona gardeners? I would love to able to go to their web sites. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Sandy From Zane Sherrill" New email address is zanes@cybertrails.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 10 22:00:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 18:00:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning a Palo Brea Message-ID: <92.18cabfd3.28a5b390@aol.com> --part1_92.18cabfd3.28a5b390_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill, The growth habit of the Palo Brea tends to spread more then to grow vertically. It is best not to do much pruning until the tree is at least two years old and then you could start to take off some of the lower branches. But remember that you should not remove more than 15% at one time. Sorry but your photos did not come through so I couldn't see what the tree looks like. Why not check with the city of Chandler to see if they plan to do a tree pruning demonstration next spring, if you have never done any pruning a demo will help. Check out this link for info on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_92.18cabfd3.28a5b390_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill,
The growth habit of the Palo Brea tends to spread more then to grow
vertically. It is best not to do much pruning until the tree is at least two
years old and then you could start to take off some of the lower branches.
But remember that you should not remove more than 15% at one time.
Sorry but your photos did not come through so I couldn't see what the tree
looks like.
Why not check with the city of Chandler to see if they plan to do a tree
pruning demonstration next spring, if you have never done any pruning a demo
will help.
Check out this link for info on pruning:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_92.18cabfd3.28a5b390_boundary-- From ernieelena@hotmail.com Fri Aug 10 23:25:26 2001 From: ernieelena@hotmail.com (ernieelena@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:25:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108102325.f7ANPQr16394@Ag.arizona.edu> My lawn is infested with pearl scale and your web site says no effective control exists. It is my understanding that golf courses have used Dursban in the past with good results. Am I misinformed? From ernieelena@hotmail.com Fri Aug 10 23:26:32 2001 From: ernieelena@hotmail.com (ernieelena@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:26:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108102326.f7ANQWr16569@Ag.arizona.edu> My lawn is infested with pearl scale and your web site says no effective control exists. It is my understanding that golf courses have used Dursban in the past with good results. Am I misinformed? Thank you, Ernie Sandoval---previous msg said sincerely Lucy Bradley. Don't know where that came from. From rkausal@aol.com Fri Aug 10 23:41:14 2001 From: rkausal@aol.com (rkausal@aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2001 16:41:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108102341.f7ANfEr18615@Ag.arizona.edu> Dear MG: I have a Chilean Mesquite, 24-inch box, which was planted this past spring. There are branches sprouting from the trunk at ground level. I am wrapping two of them around the trunk in a spiral fashion in order to achieve a "braided" trunk. Will this be a problem for the tree's health, i.e. choking etc? Thank you, Richard From sontg@msn.com Sat Aug 11 14:52:05 2001 From: sontg@msn.com (sontg@msn.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 07:52:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108111452.f7BEq5r23614@Ag.arizona.edu> From sontg@msn.com Sat Aug 11 15:27:08 2001 From: sontg@msn.com (sontg@msn.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 08:27:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108111527.f7BFR8r26307@Ag.arizona.edu> what is your email address From vbrand4@home.com Sat Aug 11 15:58:09 2001 From: vbrand4@home.com (vbrand4@home.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 08:58:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108111558.f7BFw9r28151@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a sad garden. My zuccini have large pale/silver leaves, white stems, the fruit is white - grows to about 3 inches then wilts. My tomato plants have grown but produce very little fruit which rots before ripening (this could be because of the hot weather - I did plant late). The chilies are doing well but the plants are very tall- 3.5 feet. My onions are pitiful little sprouts after 5 months of constant attention. We get flood irrigation 2x per month, I flood the garden every other day in between or when it looksfeels dried out. I fertilize 1x per month with an organic garden fertilizer. A 5-5-5 mixture. When prep the garden I dug down 2 feet and removed 1/3 of some very clay soil. I dug in 5 largest size bags of compost/ mulch. it is under a mulberry tree and gets 1/2 day sun and filtered the rest of the day. Help :( From eileenbayer@yahoo.com Sat Aug 11 21:09:34 2001 From: eileenbayer@yahoo.com (eileenbayer@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 14:09:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108112109.f7BL9Yr19387@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello. I am curious about the white fungus/mushroom type things that grow in my grass. I live in a flood irrigation area if that makes a difference. These things aren't shaped like a mushroom, they spread through the grass and up out of the grass so that they are in big clumps. My dog is able to sniff these things out and I don't know if they are poisonous. Any thoughts. thanks. eileen From fscapellit@mindspring.com Sat Aug 11 22:39:25 2001 From: fscapellit@mindspring.com (fscapellit@mindspring.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 15:39:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108112239.f7BMdPr25293@Ag.arizona.edu> I purchased Lisianthus and a Hibiscus plant a month ago. Neither have bloomed since the original flowers fell off. A gardener told me the soil is the problem. Evidently the soil I used has too much nitrogen (bark) or no nutrients at all. I don't understand. The soil I planted them in is Miracle-Gro potting soil. I has 10-10-10 fertilizer. I has sphagnum peat, manure and a wetting agent. What's wrong. The plant, also has not grown. Thank you. From umiller@azdps.com Sat Aug 11 22:44:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 15:44:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus in pots In-Reply-To: <200108112239.f7BMdPr25293@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I don't know about the Lisianthus, but I know a little bit about hibiscus. Here are some comments. If you live in the desert, planting anything during the hot summer is a chancy situation because of the heat so consider yourself lucky that it survived at all. Hibiscus needs good drainage. This is very important. I think that if this were a nutrient problems, you'd see manifestations in other ways -- like the leaves turning yellow. >From what you write, I assume that your plants are in pots. Soil in pots dries out quickly in the heat - esp. if it's a wooden or clay pot. Make sure that you're giving the plant enough water. If you only planted it a month ago, you shouldn't expect too much growth yet. It's probably still trying to get settled in its new soil. I have hibiscus in pots and in the ground. The ones in the ground are clearly doing much better; in fact they're thriving. The ones in pots always seem to struggle during the summer. Whatever progress they make during the rest of the year seems to be lost during the summer. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener You can go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in hibiscus and click on search. That way you can see previous discussions on hibiscus that might also give you more ideas on what the problem could be. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of fscapellit@mindspring.com Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 3:39 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I purchased Lisianthus and a Hibiscus plant a month ago. Neither have bloomed since the original flowers fell off. A gardener told me the soil is the problem. Evidently the soil I used has too much nitrogen (bark) or no nutrients at all. I don't understand. The soil I planted them in is Miracle-Gro potting soil. I has 10-10-10 fertilizer. I has sphagnum peat, manure and a wetting agent. What's wrong. The plant, also has not grown. Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gtaintl@telus.net Sat Aug 11 23:31:14 2001 From: gtaintl@telus.net (gtaintl@telus.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 16:31:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108112331.f7BNVDr29178@Ag.arizona.edu> HOW DO I PROPERLY DRY EUCALYPTUS LEAVES WITHOUT HAVING THEM DISINTEGRATE? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 12 01:20:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 21:20:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <115.2fd7f64.28a733ee@aol.com> --part1_115.2fd7f64.28a733ee_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ernie, It has been some time since Dursban has been used to control Pearl Scale. Since the Federal Government has not approved the chemical Merit for use in controlling Pearl Scale we as representatives of the University of Arizona are not authorized to recommend its use. It is my understanding that landscapers are using it for control of Pearl Scale. My sugestion is to contact a landscaper for further info. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_115.2fd7f64.28a733ee_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ernie,
It has been some time since Dursban has been used to control Pearl Scale.
Since the Federal Government has not approved the chemical Merit for use in
controlling Pearl Scale we as representatives of the University of Arizona
are not authorized to recommend its use. It is my understanding that
landscapers are using it for control of Pearl Scale.
My sugestion is to contact a landscaper for further info.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_115.2fd7f64.28a733ee_boundary-- From wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 12 03:07:55 2001 From: wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net (wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2001 20:07:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108120307.f7C37tr14401@Ag.arizona.edu> We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing off our pasture? Any ideas? Thanks. From binmotawa@hotmail.com Sun Aug 12 11:07:49 2001 From: binmotawa@hotmail.com (binmotawa@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 04:07:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108121107.f7CB7nr16648@Ag.arizona.edu> is it possible to join your classes on date palms by the internet ? From faye2000@cwnet.com Sun Aug 12 14:23:55 2001 From: faye2000@cwnet.com (faye2000@cwnet.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 07:23:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108121423.f7CENtr24679@Ag.arizona.edu> How does liquid go up trees and into the branches from the roots, even with trees 50-100 feet high? From Poseygirl3@aol.com Sun Aug 12 19:04:30 2001 From: Poseygirl3@aol.com (Poseygirl3@aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 12:04:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108121904.f7CJ4Ur11033@Ag.arizona.edu> After Christmas I planted my ailing poinsettia in a pot on my covered south-facing porch. It receives part/sun part/shade, I water it almost daily, and it has really thrived. Will it flower (red leaves) again this season? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 12 21:26:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 17:26:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Braided Message-ID: --part1_d.18fd5113.28a84e92_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard, Although I have not seen a mesquite trunk braided I suspect that because of the rapid growth of the mesquite there would be problems down the road with the braided parts choking themselves. I have seen Ficus benjamina braided, it might be more practible. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d.18fd5113.28a84e92_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Richard,
Although I have not seen a mesquite trunk braided I suspect that because of
the rapid growth of the mesquite there would be problems down the road with
the braided parts choking themselves. I have seen Ficus benjamina braided, it
might be more practible.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_d.18fd5113.28a84e92_boundary-- From SOKCAMELOT@aol.com Sun Aug 12 21:38:02 2001 From: SOKCAMELOT@aol.com (SOKCAMELOT@aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 17:38:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Sap Disease Message-ID: <81.e878c91.28a8513a@aol.com> --part1_81.e878c91.28a8513a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Person, Please, I'm sure one of my Argentina Mesquite is already dead from this amber sap that solidifies into a hard white substance all over the tree. We are trying to scrape this junk off the 2nd tree before it dies. What is this stuff and how do I prevent it from growing again. I've called the landscaper who put them in last Aug. but he refuses to speak with me. These are older trees he planted. Please respond to me directly as soon as you can. Thanks Shelly SOKCamelot@aol.com --part1_81.e878c91.28a8513a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Person,

Please, I'm sure one of my Argentina Mesquite is already dead from this amber
sap that solidifies into a hard white substance all over the tree.  We are
trying to scrape this junk off the 2nd tree before it dies.  What is this
stuff and how do I prevent it from growing again.  I've called the landscaper
who put them in last Aug. but he refuses to speak with me.  These are older
trees he planted.  Please respond to me directly as soon as you can.

Thanks
Shelly
SOKCamelot@aol.com --part1_81.e878c91.28a8513a_boundary-- From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Aug 12 22:17:15 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 15:17:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] poinsettia care References: <200108121904.f7CJ4Ur11033@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c1237c$8c3b54e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> You can get your poinsettias to bloom again, but it is a lot of work. Poinsettias are photoperiodic, which means they set bud and produce flowers as the nights lengthen. To get your holiday poinsettia to bloom again next year, you must provide it with 14 hours of total darkness every day, about eight weeks before you want the plant to re-bloom (usually in the fall). Here is a link that has detailed instructions on the care and re-flowering of poinsettias http://www.gardenguides.com/articles/poinsettia.htm Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2001 12:04 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > After Christmas I planted my ailing poinsettia in a pot on my covered south-facing porch. It receives part/sun part/shade, I water it almost daily, and it has really thrived. Will it flower (red leaves) again this season? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 22:25:46 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 15:25:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mistletoe removal ... best season to do it? References: Message-ID: <3B77026A.9A218478@qwest.net> I asked the UA's plant pathologist while in Tucson this weekend. She said the optimal time to remove mistletoe is whenever you see it! For her discussion in the plant pathology website, see http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/trees/paloverde/paloverdemist.html Linda Guy, MG ??? ??? wrote: > We just bought a home in the desert with many Palo Verde Trees some of > which have one of two mistletoe's attached... is there a "bad" time to > remove these parasites? An optimal time? Also is there anyone you may > recommend that we could pay to come out to our home to do a walk > through inspection of our plant life? Thank you. > From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 22:35:30 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 15:35:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200108102325.f7ANPQr16394@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7704B2.BD8C409D@qwest.net> In addition to Rod's response re: Merit, I believe that it was also suggested that the area be treated with sulfur to change the soil pH and make the scale less 'happy' with its environment. Linda Guy, MG ernieelena@hotmail.com wrote: > My lawn is infested with pearl scale and your web site says no effective control exists. It is my understanding that golf courses have used Dursban in the past with good results. Am I misinformed? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 22:44:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 15:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drying eucalyptus References: <200108112331.f7BNVDr29178@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7706DD.9F220649@qwest.net> I'm not sure what your purpose is and if this suggestion will help. If it is for dried flower arrangements, I would hang the specimens upside down in a dark, dry place, like an indoor closet, in the same way I'd do herbs. If you do this outdoors, cover with a paper bag to eliminate dust collection. Otherwise, if you do not need them 3-D, you could press them in newspaper until they are dried. Linda Guy, MG gtaintl@telus.net wrote: > HOW DO I PROPERLY DRY EUCALYPTUS LEAVES WITHOUT HAVING THEM DISINTEGRATE? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 23:09:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:09:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palm Classes References: <200108121107.f7CB7nr16648@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B770CAC.E1CAA0D1@qwest.net> I'm not sure which classes you are referring to, but some are listed at http://aquinas.agforbes.arizona.edu/garden/ and maybe you can find the contact you seek there, since there are many links on that page. Linda Guy, MG binmotawa@hotmail.com wrote: > is it possible to join your classes on date palms by the internet ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 23:12:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:12:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108121423.f7CENtr24679@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B770D55.E9BDBCC4@qwest.net> Here is a very detailed reply that I have given previously to students who are studying plant parts and functions. There are many types of root systems: fibrous roots of grass, corn, some flowers and shrubs; enlarged stems of an Irish potato, the globular root of a beet, the taproot of a carrot or dill plant. There are even aerial roots on certain plants. These should not be confused with bulbuous plants, like garlic or daffodils, whose bulbs are actually compacted sections of the stem complete with buds and modified leaves. The roots on a bulb dangle from the bulb's base; the part you cut off from the bottom of a green onion, for example. Plant roots absorb water and dissolved nutrients from the soil and conduct this to the stem to be distributed to the plant. The wall of each root cell is a semipermeable membrane, the sap inside the cell is a fairly strong solution of water, sugar & other substances called salts [not just NaCl!], and the scientific principle in play here is osmosis. The stronger solution inside the cell attracts the weaker one in the soil across the membrane. Ask your teacher to explain this better to you. We know a whole lot less about plant roots that plant tops, since they grow underground and when we remove them from the soil they no longer are behaving as in their natural habitat. There are several kinds of water in soil. Some is held so tightly by the soil that plants can't get it. That is, the chemical bond to the soil particle is stronger than the osmosis that the root cells could generate to attract it away to the plant. Once you add a bit more water, then some is held loosely by soil particles and the plant is able to absorb this by osmosis. Lastly, if the soil is really saturated with water, the excess runs through the soil, pulled by gravity. [There is also water evaporation from the top of the soil which acts against gravity and draws water up.] If there is extra water in the soil, the roots will also act in a storage capacity for the plant. Now on to the rest of the plant. Stems carry water and dissolved nutrients, called sap once inside the plant, up and into the above ground structure. Sap is moved by a combination of scientific forces: osmosis, capillary action, transpiration and the pressure in the atmosphere. Lots of water in the soil increases the rate of osmosis because the more water in the soil, the more dilute it is compared to that in the root cell. Sap will not move up the plant through the stem tissue called xylem if there is no water coming in through the roots. The capillary action in a plant stem is like a straw standing in a pan of water. The thinner and taller the tube the higher the water will rise [again assuming there is adequate water in the soil]. As the leaves of the plant transpire or lose water to evaporation, this action is like sucking on the end of the straw. Evaporation is controlled by openings in plant leaves called stomata, in the outside cell layers. The green matter of leaves is chlorophyll. Using the energy of the sun, the cells manufacture carbohydrates or sugars from the water and dissolved nutrients that the roots absorbed, and carbon dioxide in the air. This process is photosynthesis. If you had the ability to look at the cells in a leaf you would see that the parts that are shielded from the sun do not produce the plant's food, since sunlight is necessary for this process. A by-product of the plant's producing its food supply is the oxygen that is vital for us humans. Carbon dioxide comes in and oxygen goes out through the leaves' stomata which we already talked about. The leaf will save some of the food it generates and send the rest back into the plant. Some returns to the roots where it helps the root cells to grow [this happens at the tips of the roots] and get bigger and longer to absorb more water and nutrients to send up to the leaves, in the same cycle. It is not only flowers that will change colors: if you conduct the same experiment with a stalk of celery, for example, you will see stem and leaf change color, too. I don't know exactly why, but I suspect it may have to do with the volume of water in the cell tissue which carries the dye. Celery has a very high water content. There are two very good, basic books that show all these structures. Perhaps you can look for them in the library. I'm not sure what grade you are in, and I hope I won't insult you with this selection of what might appear to be picture books! Look very carefully as one of them has incredible detail on cell biology, including mitochondria, ER, nucleus, cytoplasm, etc. [I am a massage therapist, and I had to learn all about this type of stuff as it relates to our own human bodies!] One is from the Inside Guides series, called Incredible Plants. The other is Picturepedia of Plants. Both are DK Publishing books. Please write us back if you need more help, or at least to give us an address to mail some materials, if we find they are available. Good luck on your project. Linda Guy Master Gardener faye2000@cwnet.com wrote: > How does liquid go up trees and into the branches from the roots, even with trees 50-100 feet high? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Aug 12 23:17:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 16:17:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Sap Disease - Slime Flux? References: <81.e878c91.28a8513a@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B770E7E.81F65DA1@qwest.net> Could it possibly be slime flux? Check out these links http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/trees/mesquite/mesquitesf.htm http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1031.pdf If so, the way to address the situation is to use good cultural practices to keep the tree as healthy as possible. Perhaps removing the limbs that are most offensive. Linda Guy, MG SOKCAMELOT@aol.com wrote: > Dear Person, > > Please, I'm sure one of my Argentina Mesquite is already dead from this amber > sap that solidifies into a hard white substance all over the tree. We are > trying to scrape this junk off the 2nd tree before it dies. What is this > stuff and how do I prevent it from growing again. I've called the landscaper > who put them in last Aug. but he refuses to speak with me. These are older > trees he planted. Please respond to me directly as soon as you can. > > Thanks > Shelly > SOKCamelot@aol.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 12 23:26:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:26:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Sap Disease Message-ID: <65.18c3321e.28a86ac0@aol.com> --part1_65.18c3321e.28a86ac0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for a mesquite to bleed from pruning cuts, injuries or stress cracks. It may be worse when the tree does not get adequate water. Check out this site for proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_65.18c3321e.28a86ac0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is normal for a mesquite to bleed from pruning cuts, injuries or stress
cracks. It may be worse  when the tree does not get adequate water.
Check out this site for proper irrigation:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_65.18c3321e.28a86ac0_boundary-- From aliceh2000@hotmail.com Mon Aug 13 02:10:27 2001 From: aliceh2000@hotmail.com (aliceh2000@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 19:10:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108130210.f7D2ARr08475@Ag.arizona.edu> I have been growing a dwarf orange tree in a 24 inch container pot for about a year. It is located on the north west corner of the yard. It has a lot of spindly looking new growth, and the leaves on the new growth are very small. Is this normal? If not, what is going on and what should I be doing? Thanks for your help. Alice From Tutusues@aol.com Mon Aug 13 03:49:45 2001 From: Tutusues@aol.com (Tutusues@aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2001 20:49:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108130349.f7D3njr17775@Ag.arizona.edu> One of our saguaros has new arms emerging from just above ground level. It has several arms at the usual height about 2/3 up the length. The new ground level arms will interfere with a pathway and look somewhat unsightly. Would it be possible to remove these 2 new ground level arms while small, or would this injure the cactus? It is otherwise a beautiful specimen. Thank you for your help. From BkWdow@aol.com Mon Aug 13 06:08:14 2001 From: BkWdow@aol.com (BkWdow@aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 02:08:14 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: clover-like weeds Message-ID: --part1_de.18e245b1.28a8c8ce_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Reference the clover-like weed in the lawn, there's a weed called Tinker's Penny (member of the St. John's Wort family) that has oval leaves and 5-petaled yellow flowers that fits the description. It would be blooming this time of year but it usually likes higher elevations. There's another weed called Bur Clover (member of the pea family) that's more likely for lower elevations. It looks very clover-like and you'll know it for sure because it gets burs (spiny seed pods) when it seeds. It's common in lawns and pastures. However, the flowers aren't daisy-like as the Tinker's Penny flowers are, but more clustered. I'm new to the list and hope it's okay I piped up. Marcy - Scribendi Cacoethes - --part1_de.18e245b1.28a8c8ce_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Reference the clover-like weed in the lawn, there's a weed called Tinker's
Penny (member of the St. John's Wort family) that has oval leaves and
5-petaled yellow flowers that fits the description.  It would be blooming
this time of year but it usually likes higher elevations.  There's another
weed called Bur Clover (member of the pea family) that's more likely for
lower elevations.  It looks very clover-like and you'll know it for sure
because it gets burs (spiny seed pods) when it seeds.  It's common in lawns
and pastures.  However, the flowers aren't daisy-like as the Tinker's Penny
flowers are, but more clustered.
I'm new to the list and hope it's okay I piped up.  

Marcy
- Scribendi Cacoethes - --part1_de.18e245b1.28a8c8ce_boundary-- From binmotawa@hotmail.com Mon Aug 13 07:20:17 2001 From: binmotawa@hotmail.com (binmotawa@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 00:20:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108130720.f7D7KHr02231@Ag.arizona.edu> Iam interrested in classes on date palm care that teaches all the correct phases of date production,from polination and offshoot removal to harvesting...ect.offerred by the Arboretum at the Arizona State University in Tempa.Which was tought by Bill Benson.If these classes are not availlable any more .I would apreciate your assistance on finding related puplications,informations and how to contact Mr.Bill Benson From lisaperez5@home.com Mon Aug 13 14:24:38 2001 From: lisaperez5@home.com (lisaperez5@home.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 07:24:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108131424.f7DEOc103565@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a couple of 'baby' palm trees that have spung up in our yard (not planted by us). I was curious to know if these could be dug up and transplanted somewhere else. Or will this kill them? From cdg@phxinternet.net Mon Aug 13 16:23:32 2001 From: cdg@phxinternet.net (clementedesign) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 09:23:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] September-November Plant selection Message-ID: <001a01c12414$527304e0$0201a8c0@mgh> Hi I want to know if you could please refer me to a list of plants that are best to plant in September and November in the east part of Scottsdale. We have a combination of full sun and partial shade in a forecoourt. The court faces west. thanks for any help Frank Clemente From tflemin@chw.edu Mon Aug 13 17:01:09 2001 From: tflemin@chw.edu (tflemin@chw.edu) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:01:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108131701.f7DH19127247@Ag.arizona.edu> Are bouganvilla thorns poisonous? I was stabbed by a large thorn this weekend, and the area around the puncture is red, swollen and VERY sore, do they have any poisonous substances in those thorns? Or is it just possible I have a piece of the thorn still in my arm? From tflemin@chw.edu Mon Aug 13 17:05:44 2001 From: tflemin@chw.edu (tflemin@chw.edu) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:05:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108131705.f7DH5i128091@Ag.arizona.edu> When is a good time to prune a dwarf peach tree? I planted one last spring, but didn't prune it much at the time because it had several fruits already established on it. The tree is doing pretty well making it through it's first summer here in Phoenix, but many of it's branches are long, skinny and droopy. I don't want to send the tree into shock, is it better to prune it little bits at a time? Can I start in the fall or should I wait until winter? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 13 17:53:19 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 10:53:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning peach tree References: <200108131705.f7DH5i128091@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c12420$d7dfb400$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The time to prune fruit trees is in late winter or early spring before growth starts. There is a excellent fact sheet "Pruning Fruit Trees in Home Orchards" (MC 66). that is available at any of the four Maricopa County Cooperative Extension offices. You can pick it up for free, or send the main office in Phoenix $1.00 and they will mail it to you. Use this link to find the addresses of the offices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 13, 2001 10:05 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > When is a good time to prune a dwarf peach tree? I planted one last spring, but didn't prune it much at the time because it had several fruits already established on it. The tree is doing pretty well making it through it's first summer here in Phoenix, but many of it's branches are long, skinny and droopy. I don't want to send the tree into shock, is it better to prune it little bits at a time? Can I start in the fall or should I wait until winter? From cenalmor@yahoo.com Mon Aug 13 20:30:03 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 13:30:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea poisonous? In-Reply-To: <200108131701.f7DH19127247@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010813203003.15152.qmail@web13908.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1824839620-997734603=:15056 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Bougainvillea are considered to have a Toxicity Class 4: Dermatitis: The juice, sap, or thorns of these plants may cause a skin rash or irritation. Wash the affected area of skin with soap and water as soon as possible after contact. The rashes may be very serious and painful. Barbara Cenalmor - Master Gardener tflemin@chw.edu wrote: Are bouganvilla thorns poisonous? I was stabbed by a large thorn this weekend, and the area around the puncture is red, swollen and VERY sore, do they have any poisonous substances in those thorns? Or is it just possible I have a piece of the thorn still in my arm? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-1824839620-997734603=:15056 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

 Bougainvillea are considered to have a Toxicity Class 4:

Dermatitis: The juice, sap, or thorns of these plants may cause a skin rash or irritation. Wash the affected area of skin with soap and water as soon as possible after contact. The rashes may be very serious and painful.

Barbara Cenalmor - Master Gardener

tflemin@chw.edu wrote:

Are bouganvilla thorns poisonous? I was stabbed by a large thorn this weekend, and the area around the puncture is red, swollen and VERY sore, do they have any poisonous substances in those thorns? Or is it just possible I have a piece of the thorn still in my arm?

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Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-1824839620-997734603=:15056-- From Rick.Arnold@RRS.CC Mon Aug 13 22:07:42 2001 From: Rick.Arnold@RRS.CC (Rick.Arnold@RRS.CC) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:07:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108132207.f7DM7g118433@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Chandler and the warter is so "hard" that plants such as tomatos bare fruit that taste salty. Any advice, besides move? From cenalmor@yahoo.com Mon Aug 13 22:22:53 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:22:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea poisonous? In-Reply-To: <3B784D4E.28E19AC9@qwest.net> Message-ID: <20010813222253.86478.qmail@web13902.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1596755110-997741373=:85923 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Linda, There are a lot of sources on the internet from different institutions (universities mostly) that will "rank" common plants. Even though they may have a different ranking system, I find them very consistent for different plants. I also first looked these up when I trimmed my bougainvillias a couple of years ago and had a horrible rash all over my body afterwards. Now I cover myself head to toe with really thick clothing before I go near them. Unfortunately the thorns seem to be made out of diamond and still I'm hit every time. But now I know to just wash that area quickly and that's usually enough. Some of these sources advise to call the Poison Control Center, but I suppose this is for very extreme cases. I was really itchy, but never in danger. Anyways, here are a couple of these sources: http://envhort.ucdavis.edu/ce/king/PoisPlant/Tox-COM.htm http://www.ppsinc.org/poison/plants.htm Barbara Linda Guy wrote: Barbara, Could you share the toxicity ranking system and an online resource for questions of this type. I'm sure there are other AG list server members who'd also be interested. Thanks in advance. Linda Guy, MG Barbara Cenalmor wrote: Bougainvillea are considered to have a Toxicity Class 4: Dermatitis: The juice, sap, or thorns of these plants may cause a skin rash or irritation. Wash the affected area of skin with soap and water as soon as possible after contact. The rashes may be very serious and painful. Barbara Cenalmor - Master Gardener tflemin@chw.edu wrote: Are bouganvilla thorns poisonous? I was stabbed by a large thorn this weekend, and the area around the puncture is red, swollen and VERY sore, do they have any poisonous substances in those thorns? Or is it just possible I have a piece of the thorn still in my arm? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-1596755110-997741373=:85923 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Linda,

There are a lot of sources on the internet from different institutions (universities mostly) that will "rank"  common plants.  Even though they may have a different ranking system, I find them very consistent for different plants.  I also first looked these up when I trimmed my bougainvillias a couple of years ago and had a horrible rash all over my body afterwards.  Now I cover myself head to toe with really thick clothing before I go near them.  Unfortunately the thorns seem to be made out of diamond and still I'm hit every time.  But now I know to just wash that area quickly and that's usually enough.   Some of these sources advise to call the Poison Control Center, but I suppose this is for very extreme cases.  I was really itchy, but never in danger.

Anyways, here are a couple of these sources:

http://envhort.ucdavis.edu/ce/king/PoisPlant/Tox-COM.htm

 http://www.ppsinc.org/poison/plants.htm

Barbara

 Linda Guy <lindaguy@qwest.net> wrote:

Barbara,

Could you share the toxicity ranking system and an online resource for  questions of this type. I'm sure there are other AG list server members who'd also be interested. Thanks in advance.

Linda Guy, MG

Barbara Cenalmor wrote:

 Bougainvillea are considered to have a Toxicity Class 4:

Dermatitis: The juice, sap, or thorns of these plants may cause a skin rash or irritation. Wash the affected area of skin with soap and water as soon as possible after contact. The rashes may be very serious and painful.

Barbara Cenalmor - Master Gardener

tflemin@chw.edu wrote:

Are bouganvilla thorns poisonous? I was stabbed by a large thorn this weekend, and the area around the puncture is red, swollen and VERY sore, do they have any poisonous substances in those thorns? Or is it just possible I have a piece of the thorn still in my arm?

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Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger. --0-1596755110-997741373=:85923-- From Lisette@asu.edu Mon Aug 13 22:51:56 2001 From: Lisette@asu.edu (Lisette@asu.edu) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 15:51:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea poisonous? In-Reply-To: <20010813203003.15152.qmail@web13908.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: May I add a note of caution here? I am not a Master Gardener or a doctor, but any puncture wound can get infected. And any puncture wound, even those from thorns, can be infected with tetanus. Please be careful! Lisette Volkmar Lisette@asu.edu From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 14 00:26:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 20:26:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, transplanting volunteers Message-ID: --part1_c4.18c9eb68.28a9ca29_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm volunteers are quite easy to transplant. I have used either one gallon or five gallon pots depending on the size of the plant and transplanted them after several months into the ground. I suspect that that they would transplant into the ground quite well. Be sure that they are kept watered especially this time of year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_c4.18c9eb68.28a9ca29_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Palm volunteers are quite easy to transplant. I have used either one gallon
or five gallon pots depending on the size of the plant and transplanted them
after several months into the ground. I suspect that that they would
transplant into the ground quite well. Be sure that they are kept watered
especially this time of year.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener   --part1_c4.18c9eb68.28a9ca29_boundary-- From wilhardt@mindspring.com Tue Aug 14 15:49:14 2001 From: wilhardt@mindspring.com (wilhardt@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 08:49:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108141549.f7EFnB100727@Ag.arizona.edu> My sister has a large amount of fungus growing under her schrubs in her back yard. It is starting to spread to the lawn. She has applied a funguside from Harper Nursery, but it just turns brown for a day and then grows bigger. What do you suggest she do to get rid of it ? She is located near Thomas and 64th streets in Scottsdale. From JLibby@pwd.org Tue Aug 14 19:17:27 2001 From: JLibby@pwd.org (JLibby@pwd.org) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:17:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108141917.f7EJHR110697@Ag.arizona.edu> My Straight 8 cucumbers always seem to grow short and round. I do not have a problem with pickling cukes in same soil. What should I do? From Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com Tue Aug 14 19:36:32 2001 From: Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com (Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 12:36:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108141936.f7EJaW113760@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 Mediterranean Fan Palms (both are multi-trunk and over 10 years old) with individual leaves/fronds dying. Looks like the fronds either initially turn brown and die or else the base of the frond stem turns brown and weak (fronds are still green), then the stem bends from the weakness and hangs down. I noticed this condition about 2-3 weeks ago and this is the first time this has happened to these palms. Can you please advise what possibly is the cause and how to treat? Thanks for your help! Best regards, Evelyn Gholson From MGOETZ@Orrick.com Wed Aug 15 00:03:34 2001 From: MGOETZ@Orrick.com (Goetz, Margaret A.) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 17:03:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree Message-ID: <9F99EF30518FD41197D400508BE3172AD56436@laexch1.orrick.com> I live in Pasadena, California, where it's extremely hot during the summer. I have a grapefruit tree which is watered regularly. I was out of the country for about two months and returned last week to find the tree's leaves covered with what appear to be white scales. I've tried washing them off, but they quickly reappear. Do you have any idea what this might be and, if so, how I can combat it? If you're not sure, would you perhaps be able to direct me to someone or some institution which might know? Thank you in advance for your assistance. NOTICE TO RECIPIENT: THIS E-MAIL IS MEANT FOR ONLY THE INTENDED RECIPIENT OF THE TRANSMISSION, AND MAY BE A COMMUNICATION PRIVILEGED BY LAW. IF YOU RECEIVED THIS E-MAIL IN ERROR, ANY REVIEW, USE, DISSEMINATION, DISTRIBUTION, OR COPYING OF THIS E-MAIL IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PLEASE NOTIFY US IMMEDIATELY OF THE ERROR BY RETURN E-MAIL AND PLEASE DELETE THIS MESSAGE FROM YOUR SYSTEM. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR COOPERATION. http://www.orrick.com From cenalmor@yahoo.com Wed Aug 15 01:52:48 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 18:52:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea poisonous? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010815015248.42167.qmail@web13908.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Lisette, I wasn't aware of this until a while ago when my doctor told me gardeners should be up on their tetanus shot reminders. I had one last March. It's not very pleasant, but I guess it could save my life. Barbara --- Lisette@asu.edu wrote: > > May I add a note of caution here? I am not a Master > Gardener or a doctor, but > any puncture wound can get infected. And any > puncture wound, even those from > thorns, can be infected with tetanus. Please be > careful! > > Lisette Volkmar > Lisette@asu.edu > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From cenalmor@yahoo.com Wed Aug 15 01:57:36 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 18:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108132207.f7DM7g118433@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010815015736.66521.qmail@web13907.mail.yahoo.com> You are right that the water in Chandler is very hard. But that means that there are a lot of minerals in it, not so much salt. Usually, salt is added to "soften" the water, do you have a water softener at home? I live in Chandler too and have never had a problem with salty tomatoes, mine are really sweet. But with the hot weather it is true that the flavor is not so great. The last tomatoes I've picked these couple of weeks don't have the great flavor that earlier ones did. But they are not salty, just not too flavorful. Do you think maybe this is your problem? Barbara Cenalmor Master gardener --- Rick.Arnold@RRS.CC wrote: > I live in Chandler and the warter is so "hard" that > plants such as tomatos bare fruit that taste salty. > Any advice, besides move? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From patstan@msn.com Wed Aug 15 06:02:38 2001 From: patstan@msn.com (patstan@msn.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 23:02:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108150602.f7F62c108203@Ag.arizona.edu> my saguara cactus which is approximately 30 years old and 20 ft tall has suddenly developed black tar looking stuff from the bottom up about 12 inches. it has been a very prolific grower with at least 3 new arms a year since we have lived here the last 10 years. is there anything i can do to correct this situation? From patstan@msn.com Wed Aug 15 06:02:39 2001 From: patstan@msn.com (patstan@msn.com) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2001 23:02:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108150602.f7F62d108209@Ag.arizona.edu> my saguara cactus which is approximately 30 years old and 20 ft tall has suddenly developed black tar looking stuff from the bottom up about 12 inches. it has been a very prolific grower with at least 3 new arms a year since we have lived here the last 10 years. is there anything i can do to correct this situation? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 15 12:34:10 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 05:34:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Bacterial Necrosis References: <200108150602.f7F62c108203@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c12586$988b5cc0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Your saguaro has bacterial necrosis. This is a potentially fatal disease You will need to remove the diseased tissue. (Be careful of the rot, it will stain anything it touches) You will need a sharp knife, rubbing alcohol, paper towels, and a scoop or spoon. Start cutting out the bad spot.. But every time you cut, wipe the knife with the alcohol so you don't spread the infection. Keep cutting or scooping out all the rot until you have removed it all as well as about 1/2 inch of the surrounding healthy tissue. Clean up the hole once all of the rot is removed. Remember to rinse your tools with the alcohol every time you use them. Use the knife or scoop to clean up any jagged edges, then make sure the hole you've made tapers to the outside. This will ensure that any water or rain will drain out of the hole. The hole will always be a scar on the plant, so the cleaner you make it the less unsightly it will be. Thoroughly rinse the hole with a 10% bleach solution. Do not fill the hole with anything, leave open to dry. I highly recommend that you obtain the publication "8837 Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro" from any of the Cooperative Extension offices. This publication contains a more complete description of the causes and treatment of the disease. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 11:02 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > my saguara cactus which is approximately 30 years old and 20 ft tall has suddenly developed black tar looking stuff from the bottom up about 12 inches. it has been a very prolific grower with at least 3 new arms a year since we have lived here the last 10 years. is there anything i can do to correct this situation? From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:18:57 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:18:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ants in Compost References: <200108060104.f7614gr18794@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A84D0.347AF651@qwest.net> I've always accepted the ants as mini-allies in the effort to keep compost turned and aerated and do not try to control them. Indeed, it has always seemed to me that the establishment of my compost heap in a far corner of the yard kept us both happy. The same held true for roaches, which in irrigated Arcadia seem to be very abundant. They, too hang out at the compost barrel where they are put to work! One organic solution that is often recommended is grinding citrus peels with a bit of water and pouring down the hole to the nest. Other strategies are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm Sorry, but what is a water bug? Linda Guy, MG whales@home.com wrote: > I have black ants and grey water bugs in my organic garden and compost. Are these critters ok or is there an organic way to get rid of them? I have a problem with the ants attacking and biting while I try to work in the garden.....help > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:33:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:33:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nutsedge and gophers References: <200108101430.f7AEUvr20180@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A8841.CADE7E5C@qwest.net> I, too, make every attempt to be as organic as possible in the yard, but I do not know of any solution to nutsedge, other than [probable] multiple applications of Manage. [I am using a corn gluten product as a weed and feed on my lawn for the first time, but notice that I still get spurge on the margins where the spreading isn't so effective.] You could try the following to see what they have. http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp http://www.biconet.com/index.html These sights will also have methods for dealing with ground squirrels. Here are some other links to info on your situation, http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/groundsquirrelschipmunks.html http://deal.unl.edu/icwdm/problemsDetail.shtml?catagory=Rodents http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pests/index.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG jonwiggins@home.com wrote: > Help! I have nut grass invading my new lawn. I would like to find a safe alternative that will not harm my dog. > I do not use herbicides or pesticides. Currently I am using corn gluten in my granite covered areas. > Thanks > > Also --natural-- gopher remover. Do you have any experience with safe alternatives. I have heard about wrigleys spearmint gum. :) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:38:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Fungi References: <200108112109.f7BL9Yr19387@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A897A.5716FDE1@qwest.net> I don't know anything about your problem, but can direct you to a small discussion about turf fungi in our pathology website. http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/PLP/plpext/diseases/turf/warmseason/warmseason.html Linda Guy, MG eileenbayer@yahoo.com wrote: > Hello. > I am curious about the white fungus/mushroom type things that grow in my grass. I live in a flood irrigation area if that makes a difference. These things aren't shaped like a mushroom, they spread through the grass and up out of the grass so that they are in big clumps. My dog is able to sniff these things out and I don't know if they are poisonous. Any thoughts. thanks. eileen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:42:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:42:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Citrus is Spindly References: <200108130210.f7D2ARr08475@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A8A59.39A9A0AD@qwest.net> It's hard to diagnose with no information on your cultural practices. It wouldn't seem to be 'reaching' for light on a northwest corner, but is this possible? Do you follow a deep, periodic watering schedule that flushes the root zone? Have you eliminated the saucer beneath the pot so that salt-concentrated water is not reabsorbed into the root ball? Do you fertilize the recommended 3x yearly with a product specifically geared to citrus? Linda Guy, MG aliceh2000@hotmail.com wrote: > I have been growing a dwarf orange tree in a 24 inch container pot for about a year. It is located on the north west corner of the yard. > It has a lot of spindly looking new growth, and the leaves on the new growth are very small. Is this normal? > If not, what is going on and what should I be doing? > Thanks for your help. > Alice > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:45:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:45:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date Palm Classes References: <200108130720.f7D7KHr02231@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A8AF8.329CB8A0@qwest.net> We are a part of the UA not ASU. Have you not tried the ASU websites? http://www.fm.asu.edu/arboretum.htm Linda Guy, MG binmotawa@hotmail.com wrote: > Iam interrested in classes on date palm care that teaches all the correct phases of date production,from polination and offshoot removal to harvesting...ect.offerred by the Arboretum at the Arizona State University in Tempa.Which was tought by Bill Benson.If these classes are not availlable any more .I would apreciate your assistance on finding related puplications,informations and how to contact Mr.Bill Benson > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:47:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:47:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Schedule References: <001a01c12414$527304e0$0201a8c0@mgh> Message-ID: <3B7A8B9B.17E077DC@qwest.net> You've placed a very tall order, since we don't know what type of garden/yard you are planting, whether you are going xeriscape, whether you want veggies or trees, etc. In general, we have monthly gardening column called Timely Tips which can be accessed from our home page. The rest of the website contains a wealth of information to get you started. When you have a bit more specific information needs, write us again, and we'll be happy to assist. http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Linda Guy, MG clementedesign wrote: > Hi > > I want to know if you could please refer me to a list of plants that are > best > to plant in September and November in the east part of Scottsdale. > > We have a combination of full sun and partial shade in a forecoourt. > The court faces west. > > thanks for any help > > Frank Clemente > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 14:52:30 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:52:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn fungus References: <200108141549.f7EFnB100727@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A8CAE.184CA908@qwest.net> My first tactic would be to pick them as soon as they are seen and dispose of them. To do so immediately prevents the spore release which will foster more fungus. Many of us with thick lawns are experiencing this. [I live down the street at 54th and Thomas] This particularly happens when we don't mow the lawn as often as it should be done and the carpet is so thick that it doesn't quite dry out. This environment tends to foster these not so little 'toad stools'. If she wants to continue with the fungicide, have her read the label very carefully again. Linda Guy, MG wilhardt@mindspring.com wrote: > My sister has a large amount of fungus growing under her schrubs > in her back yard. It is starting to spread to the lawn. She has applied a > funguside from Harper Nursery, but it just turns brown for a day and > then grows bigger. > What do you suggest she do to get rid of it ? > She is located near Thomas and 64th streets in Scottsdale. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ej10817@goodnet.com Wed Aug 15 14:58:40 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 07:58:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] drying eucalyptus Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010815075721.00ac0d70@mail.winstarmail.com> --=====================_6577020==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Here is something I gleaned from another list about drying flowers, applies to eucalyptus as well: Glycerine Drying This method keeps some flowers soft and pliable for easier handling and less shedding. Try this method with eucalyptus, baby's breath and statice. According to "Martha", this is the best way to preserve leaves. You will need: Vegetable glycerine, (available at Pharmacies) Water A glass or enamel container large enough to hold the flowers upright A hammer Freshly cut flowers or leaves Mix 1 part vegetable glycerine to 2 parts hot tap water, using enough to make the mixture about 2 inches deep. Smash the bottom inch or two of the flower stems to help them absorb the glycerine quickly. (One or two whacks with the hammer is all you need.) Place the flower stems in the glycerine-water mixture, and leave 3 to 5 days so the flowers can absorb the glycerine. (Baby's breath can take 1 to 2 weeks, wait until the stems turn tan.) You can tell when the flowers have absorbed enough glycerine by the way they look and feel. A good way to test if they are ready is to let one stem air dry and compare it to the flowers in the glycerin after a few days. If the air dried flower feels dry and the flowers in the glycerine feel soft and look slightly darker in color they're probably ready to be taken out of the glycerine mixture. Cut off the part of the stem that was setting in the glycerin. Allow the flowers to air dry for a week or so before storing. The glycerine/water mixture can be reused several times. Good luck, Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening --=====================_6577020==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Here is something I gleaned from another list about drying flowers, applies to eucalyptus as well:
Glycerine Drying
   This method keeps some flowers soft and pliable for easier handling and less shedding. Try this method with eucalyptus, baby’s breath and statice. According to "Martha", this is the best way to preserve leaves.  You will need:
Vegetable glycerine, (available at Pharmacies)                  Water   
A glass or enamel container large enough to hold the flowers  upright   A hammer
Freshly cut flowers or leaves
Mix 1 part vegetable glycerine to 2 parts hot tap water, using enough to make the mixture about 2 inches deep.
   Smash the bottom inch or two of the flower stems to help them absorb the glycerine quickly. (One or two whacks with the hammer is all you need.)
   Place the flower stems in the glycerine-water mixture, and leave 3 to 5 days so the flowers can absorb the glycerine. (Baby’s breath can take 1 to 2 weeks, wait until the stems turn tan.) You can tell when the flowers have absorbed enough glycerine by the way they look and feel. A good way to test if they are ready is to let one stem air dry and compare it to the flowers in the glycerin after a few days. If the air dried flower feels dry and the flowers in the glycerine feel soft and look slightly darker in color they're probably ready to be taken out of the glycerine mixture.
   Cut off the part of the stem that was setting in the glycerin. Allow the flowers to air dry for a week or so before storing. The glycerine/water mixture can be reused several times.

Good luck,

Pat

Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101
http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening
--=====================_6577020==_.ALT-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 15 15:12:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 08:12:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant Control References: <200108050125.f751P7r19383@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7A9171.D57BCD0E@qwest.net> Try to find the entry ways to the nests. [Ants can not be contained unless you get the queen.] Pour in a solution of citrus peels and a bit of water. Other strategies are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm Linda Guy, MG madasmith@aol.com wrote: > I have ants all over my melons plants. Everything I looked at said not yo use around food products. What brand of ant killer is safe for my vegetable garden? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Aug 15 16:44:19 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 12:44:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant Control Message-ID: I have had very good luck controling the small biting ants that seem to like living around the plants by using a mixture of boric acid and honey. I add a bit of hot water to the honey so the boric acid can be mixed in. Put the mixture in jar lids or cut off aluminum cans (which can also be hung). The ants eat it, go home and die. As boric acid is a mild toxin, please keep out of reach of pets and kids. Hope this helps. Rocki From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 16 00:55:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:55:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Lawn fungus] Message-ID: <3B7B19EB.71155CD0@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------B5E21A597DE5327BF5AD14B3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I misunderstood the question and have no experience with this. Can someone else be of service? Linda --------------B5E21A597DE5327BF5AD14B3 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 29088 invoked by uid 0); 15 Aug 2001 16:36:15 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (63.226.138.3) by phnxpop5.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 15 Aug 2001 16:36:15 -0000 Received: (qmail 12671 invoked by uid 0); 15 Aug 2001 16:36:15 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO hall.mail.mindspring.net) (207.69.200.60) by mail3.uswest.net with SMTP; 15 Aug 2001 16:36:15 -0000 Received: from compaq (user-38ldk0n.dialup.mindspring.com [209.86.208.23]) by hall.mail.mindspring.net (8.9.3/8.8.5) with SMTP id MAA03418 for ; Wed, 15 Aug 2001 12:36:13 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 09:31:38 -0700 Message-ID: <003e01c125a8$977d76c0$17d056d1@compaq> From: "Wilhardt Jerry" To: "Linda Guy" Reply-To: "Wilhardt Jerry" References: <200108141549.f7EFnB100727@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B7A8CAE.184CA908@qwest.net> Subject: Re: Lawn fungus MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 These are not toad stools, they are large clumps of white fungus, attached to her scrubs and even to her block fence, behind one bush. They have been out in the open in the grass, but most is entwined around the lower limbs on her scrubs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 7:52 AM Subject: Lawn fungus My first tactic would be to pick them as soon as they are seen and dispose of them. To do so immediately prevents the spore release which will foster more fungus. Many of us with thick lawns are experiencing this. [I live down the street at 54th and Thomas] This particularly happens when we don't mow the lawn as often as it should be done and the carpet is so thick that it doesn't quite dry out. This environment tends to foster these not so little 'toad stools'. If she wants to continue with the fungicide, have her read the label very carefully again. Linda Guy, MG wilhardt@mindspring.com wrote: > My sister has a large amount of fungus growing under her schrubs > in her back yard. It is starting to spread to the lawn. She has applied a > funguside from Harper Nursery, but it just turns brown for a day and > then grows bigger. > What do you suggest she do to get rid of it ? > She is located near Thomas and 64th streets in Scottsdale. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------B5E21A597DE5327BF5AD14B3-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Aug 16 04:03:27 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 04:03:27 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn fungus, slime mold Message-ID: >This sounds like it could be slime mold, but if you can bring a sample to your nearest Extension Office it can probably be positively identified. http://www.nps.gov/olym/microfauna/slimemold.htm "Slime molds possess both animal and plant like characteristics. They form three main groups, none of which are closely related. Most of their lives are spent as microscopic amoebas, some with flagella, roaming independently through the forest feeding on organic matter, bacteria, and other microscopic morsels. During food shortages, slime molds swarm and aggregate into an enormous single cell." http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/mushroom/slimemold/slimemold.htm "Slime molds belong to a class of fungi, the Myxomycetes, that is characterized by the production of relatively large, single-celled, multinucleate bodies called plasmodia (singular = plasmodium). Plasmodia are the feeding stages of slime molds, and they are frequently seen on lawns, small plants, mulch, and decaying wood in late summer. Slime molds are not plant parasites, but they may injure plants by covering and shading them." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Linda Guy" >To: "Arid_gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Lawn fungus] >Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:55:07 -0700 > >I misunderstood the question and have no experience with this. Can >someone else be of service? > >Linda ><< message3.txt >> _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Aug 17 04:36:34 2001 From: kumeda@Ag.arizona.edu (Kai Umeda) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:36:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] AGRICULTURE COURSES TO BE OFFERED Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010816213529.01bad600@ag.arizona.edu> AGRICULTURE COURSES TO BE OFFERED There is 1 week before the start of the mini-course. If interested in enrolling, be present 1-2 hours before the first class to process enrollment. Beginning in the fall of 2001, the University of Arizona College of Agriculture and Life Sciences will offer technical agriculture courses at the Maricopa Agricultural Center. These courses will be offered, in one-unit modules, at the upper level undergraduate and beginning graduate level. These courses can be used to help in meeting the degree requirements for either undergraduate or graduate students working toward a master's degree. Agriculturists or other professionals seeking certification(s) may also want to enroll in these credit courses. Each modular course will be worth one semester credit hour. Each modular course will consist of four, 4-hour class sessions. For example, four-hour sessions will be held on four consecutive Wednesday afternoons (2 to 6 p.m.) at the Maricopa Agricultural Center. Therefore, students could participate in up to four modules each semester. Credit may be applied directly to programs currently in place at the University of Arizona and the Central Arizona College. Potential students should also understand that university course work will require study outside of class, assignments, as well as examinations. The Fall 2001 course offerings include: 1. Soils and Soil Fertility (coordinated by Jeff Silvertooth), 22 & 29 August and 5 & 12 September. 2. Agricultural IPM (coordinated by Peter Ellsworth), 19 & 26 September and 3 & 10 October. 3. Diagnosis and Control of Plant Diseases (M. Olsen), 17, 24, & 31 October and 7 November. 4. Urban IPM (Dawn Gouge and Kirk Smith), 14 & 28 November and 5 & 12 December. Students enrolling in these courses must be officially admitted to the University of Arizona, and will enroll through the Extended University. Enrollment can be completed the first day of class. Enrollment begins at 12 Noon and the first class begins at 2 p.m. on the designated dates for each modular course. Prices for enrollment are ($126.00 per unit plus $6.00 AZ Trust Fee and $15.00 EU Registration Fee). 1 course = $147 2 courses = $273 3 courses = $399 4 courses = $525 Information concerning enrollment and delivery of these courses can be obtained from: University of Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center 37860 W. Smith-Enke Road Maricopa, AZ 85239 (520) 568-2273 College of Agriculture and Life Sciences Office of Academic Programs University of Arizona 201 Forbes Bldg. #36 Tucson, AZ 85721 (520) 621-3612 For more details: http://ag.arizona.edu/crops/public/education/01CIAbrochurev2.pdf Kai Umeda Area Extension Agent, Vegetable Crops University of Arizona Cooperative Extension, Maricopa County 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 602-470-8086 x-314 fax 602-470-8092 http://ag.arizona.edu/crops/counties/maricopa/veggies/vegetables.html From S97@aol.com Fri Aug 17 19:00:24 2001 From: S97@aol.com (S97@aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 12:00:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108171900.f7HJ0O118555@Ag.arizona.edu> My Paloverde Tree blew down and I want to replace it. I think it was a Mexican Blue, it had a green trunk and some yellow flowers sometimes. I want one that is not messy. Someone suggested a hybrid one. What does this mean? What is the best type to get? From byztrad@aol.com Fri Aug 17 20:11:53 2001 From: byztrad@aol.com (byztrad@aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:11:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108172011.f7HKBr100441@Ag.arizona.edu> This past spring the birds built a condo in my giant Sahuaro; besides looking terrible now, it has so many open, dry holes that it looks as if it's going to break and fall over. How can I save my beautiful,old cactus? mgu From susan.presler@home.com Fri Aug 17 21:07:19 2001 From: susan.presler@home.com (susan.presler@home.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:07:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108172107.f7HL7J110543@Ag.arizona.edu> From susan.presler@home.com Fri Aug 17 21:09:13 2001 From: susan.presler@home.com (susan.presler@home.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:09:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108172109.f7HL9D110928@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a couple of ice plants that seem to be doing well but not blooming. What could be my problem? Also, I have some hearts and flowers with yellow leaves. What is my problem? Thank you Susan From dickcarmi@aol.com Fri Aug 17 22:46:11 2001 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:46:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108172246.f7HMkB128722@Ag.arizona.edu> One of my queen palms has a bunch of white "cotton?" along the trunk where a large frond has seperated. Two other palms do not have this cotton. Is this a result of a bug or something? From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Sat Aug 18 00:34:43 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 17:34:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108171900.f7HJ0O118555@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010817165651.0094e220@ag.arizona.edu> So sorry to hear about your tree. The Mexican palo verde (Parkinsonia aculeata) has a reputation for being pretty messy by dropping the mid vein of its leaves (sometimes attached to thorns) as well as seed pods. The most well known hybrid palo verde is known as the "Desert Museum". The Desert Museum is a trade marked clone of a tree developed by Mark Dimmit at the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum. It is propagated vegetatively by cuttings to ensure genetic type. A distinct characteristic of this tree is the absence of thorns. This tree has been produced commercially since the early 1990's by Mountain States Wholesale Nursery in Glendale, and a few others that had permission from the ASDM. Because of their popularity, there are now several other Cercidium or palo verde hybrids that have been developed. Arid Zone Trees in Queen Creek has their own clone that has the Palo Brea, (Cerdicium praecox), as one of its parents. Arizona Wholesale Growers calls its hybird "Sonoran Emerald". For more information on some the palo verde hybrids, take a look at the Arid Zone Times article on "Cercidium Hybrids" http://www.aridzonetrees.com/aztimes.htm No matter which tree you select, be sure to follow desert-adapted cultural practices. Remove the original nursery stake, if there is one present in the container. Only stake your tree if absolutely necessary and then only for one year. Do not prune your new tree except to remove broken or dead branches. Follow the guidelines in AZ1022 - Planting Trees and Shrubs http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1022.pdf Water your tree deeply but infrequently, allowing the soil to dry a bit in between. The water should penetrate down into the soil to a depth of three feet. A layer of mulch on top of the soil will slow evaporation and keep the soil cool so you may not have to water as often. Once your tree is established (generally two to three years) begin weaning it off the irrigation system. Your goal will be to deep water a desert tree once per month in the warm months and less often in the winter. By following these guidelines, your tree's growth will slow to allow the formation of strong wood in the trunk and branches. I hope this helps. Cathy Rymer U of A Instructional Specialist Certified Arborist At 12:00 PM 08/17/2001 -0700, S97@aol.com wrote: >My Paloverde Tree blew down and I want to replace it. I think it was a >Mexican Blue, it had a green trunk and some yellow flowers sometimes. I >want one that is not messy. Someone suggested a hybrid one. What does >this mean? What is the best type to get? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RkBetu@aol.com Sat Aug 18 01:32:07 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 21:32:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant Control Message-ID: <8d.b15e22e.28af1f97@aol.com> In a message dated 8/15/01 11:20:23 AM, steve.sheard@motorola.com writes: << What ratio on the Boric Acid to honey? 50/50? >> Yes, about 50/50. From Tutusues@aol.com Sat Aug 18 06:06:57 2001 From: Tutusues@aol.com (Tutusues@aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 23:06:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108180606.f7I66v120304@Ag.arizona.edu> I have mature saguaros which are sending out new arms at ground level. Is it acceptable to remove these arms so as to look better, or will this harm the cactus, or be illegal? They also have several arms at the usual height at about 2/3 of the total height. Thank you for your help. From AZEventHorizon@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 18 17:48:30 2001 From: AZEventHorizon@worldnet.att.net (AZEventHorizon@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 10:48:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108181748.f7IHmU104438@Ag.arizona.edu> My sages are becoming overgrown. I would like to cut them back hard. They are about 4 to 5 feet tall. How hard can I cut them back and when? From pwhitehead@qwest.net Sat Aug 18 20:00:29 2001 From: pwhitehead@qwest.net (pwhitehead@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 13:00:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108182000.f7IK0T114152@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in vegetable gardening in containers. Do you offer any publications on this subject? If not do you have any advice - what vegetables do best or any other tips. Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Aug 18 21:13:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 17:13:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Sage Message-ID: <141.168d50.28b03494@aol.com> --part1_141.168d50.28b03494_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good pruning practice is to not prune more than 15% at one time or 1/3 in one year. I f you are refering to Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) it can be pruned at any time of year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_141.168d50.28b03494_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Good pruning practice is to not prune more than 15% at one time or  1/3 in
one year. I f you are refering to Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) it
can be pruned at any time of year.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_141.168d50.28b03494_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Aug 18 22:15:38 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 18:15:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ice Plant Message-ID: --part1_a5.1a0e0ed5.28b0430a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several species of plants called Ice Plant. If you live in the low desert I suspect that the species that you have may be Lampranthus spectabilis which blooms in late winter and spring. Yellow leaves can be caused by either too much or too little water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a5.1a0e0ed5.28b0430a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are several species of plants called Ice Plant. If you live in the low
desert I suspect that the species that you have may be Lampranthus
spectabilis which blooms in late winter and spring.

Yellow leaves can be caused by either too much or too little water.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_a5.1a0e0ed5.28b0430a_boundary-- From jmyhre7@home.com Sun Aug 19 02:28:38 2001 From: jmyhre7@home.com (jmyhre7@home.com) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 19:28:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108190228.f7J2Sc111813@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a palm tree (looks like a pinapple at the base) and some of the lower leaves are turning yellow and dying off, we do have a drip sprinkler by the base of the tree. Is it getting too much water? Does it need fertilizer? Thanks From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 19 05:08:59 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2001 22:08:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Vegetables References: <200108182000.f7IK0T114152@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000a01c1286d$10208ec0$5951530c@j0r9501> See http://home.att.net/~millero/container.pdf for some suggestions. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > I am interested in vegetable gardening in containers. Do you offer any publications on this subject? If not do you have any advice - what vegetables do best or any other tips. Thank you From rubilhaque@yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 09:42:10 2001 From: rubilhaque@yahoo.com (rubilhaque@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 02:42:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108190942.f7J9gA127970@Ag.arizona.edu> Dear sir, It will be of great help to me if you please provide me with the information of date palm plantation procedure. Thanking you rabiul haque From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Aug 19 12:27:58 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 05:27:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm care Message-ID: <00c801c128aa$619cc560$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves is normal. As the palm grows, their natural cycle is to move the nutrients from their bottom leaves to the new growth. It is not a good idea to remove these bottom leaves until they have turned brown. Severe pruning stimulates an unhealthy response in palms. Energy is burned, to quickly produce new leaves to replace those lost. Instead of storing food, palms that are severely pruned annually begin depleting their reserves of energy. If this happens on a continual basis, the palm's trunk gradually decreases in diameter and becomes weak and the weakened trunk will break in a storm. Palms do need to be fertilized. Use this link to view our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms". http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This publication contains detailed information on the care of palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2001 7:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > We have a palm tree (looks like a pinapple at the base) and some of the lower leaves are turning yellow and dying off, we do have a drip sprinkler by the base of the tree. Is it getting too much water? Does it need fertilizer? > Thanks --------------------------------------------------------- Who is General Failure and why is he reading my Hard Drive? From kressky63@hotmail.com Sun Aug 19 12:41:55 2001 From: kressky63@hotmail.com (kressky63@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 05:41:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108191241.f7JCft125825@Ag.arizona.edu> I checked out the web site on tomatoes, and although it stated what diseases tomatoes are prone to, there is no information as to what I can do for any of these diseases. I have lost 4 of 28 plants and the rest are going fast. I don't even have enough to can again this year. I think it is some kind of blight. The plants start yellowing and get dry. If there happen to be fruit on the tomato, there are black spots that go all the way through the fruit. The black spot is usually on the bottom. What can I do. I live in North Dakota. Although this year started out very dry, I watered faithfully and then we were deluged with rain. I have had this problem for the last two years. Is there anything I can do? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Aug 19 13:09:41 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 06:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato question from North Dakota References: <200108191241.f7JCft125825@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <014b01c128b0$358d6aa0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The growing conditions here in the low desert are vastly different from those you have in North Dakota. The Master Gardener training program as well as our publications only cover the growing conditions in the local area. Here is a link that might have the information you are looking for: http://www.ext.nodak.edu/extpubs/plantsci/hortcrop/pp659w.htm The information contained is from the North Dakota State University Extension service. Scott Rogers Master Gardener ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 5:41 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I checked out the web site on tomatoes, and although it stated what diseases tomatoes are prone to, there is no information as to what I can do for any of these diseases. I have lost 4 of 28 plants and the rest are going fast. I don't even have enough to can again this year. I think it is some kind of blight. The plants start yellowing and get dry. If there happen to be fruit on the tomato, there are black spots that go all the way through the fruit. The black spot is usually on the bottom. What can I do. I live in North Dakota. Although this year started out very dry, I watered faithfully and then we were deluged with rain. I have had this problem for the last two years. Is there anything I can do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From southpawaz@home.com Sun Aug 19 13:33:28 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 06:33:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Saguaro arms References: <200108180606.f7I66v120304@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B7FC028.329DD464@home.com> To minimize the risk of damage to the saguaros, I would recommend using a straight bladed pruning saw to cut the arms off, as close as possible to the main trunk without cutting the trunk itself. This limits the surface area of the wound. Treat the wound with dusting sulfur after cutting to lessen the risk of infection. Tutusues@aol.com wrote: > > I have mature saguaros which are sending out new arms at ground level. Is it acceptable to remove these arms so as to look better, or will this harm the cactus, or be illegal? They also have several arms at the usual height at about 2/3 of the total height. Thank you for your help. > -- Bobby Alexander southpawaz@home.com From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Aug 19 14:00:46 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 07:00:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date palm production References: <200108190942.f7J9gA127970@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <019501c128b7$583e7920$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Mr Haque: Here is a link that has the information you are looking for: http://www.xeri.com/xeriscape/palms/dates.htm Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 2:42 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Dear sir, > It will be of great help to me if you please provide me with the information of date palm plantation procedure. > Thanking you > rabiul haque > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From marybeth@madisoncounty.net Sun Aug 19 16:06:59 2001 From: marybeth@madisoncounty.net (marybeth@madisoncounty.net) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:06:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108191606.f7JG6x105671@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a "fresh" peach pit that I would like to start as a tree. Do I just stick it in a pot with some dirt, water, and love it until it is 12 to 18 inches and then transplant in the spring or WHAT? Any help will be wonderful. Thanks, Beth Pettay From ej10817@goodnet.com Sun Aug 19 17:14:44 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 10:14:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010819100800.02af1140@mail.winstarmail.com> Hi all, I am a lurker on this list, soaking up all the good info. I went to my granddaughters last night and she wanted my help with her yard. She is renting but the landlady said do whatever will make the yard look nice. The big problem, which they both realize, is with a large tree which was planted too close to the front entrance and which has sent large roots under the small brick patio and the sidewalk. She asked me if someone could just cut those roots off but my feeling that even if this is possible it would just happen again. My feeling is that the tree must come down. Where should she look for expert help? She wanted to call a landscaper but I think she might not get the right advice from landscapers as they primarily deal with planting and maintaining. I told her I would ask the experts. Can anyone here tell me how she should proceed with this problem? Thanks, Pat in Phoenix From glregis@qwest.net Sun Aug 19 18:35:51 2001 From: glregis@qwest.net (glregis@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 11:35:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108191835.f7JIZp116061@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like you to identify a plant growin in my flower bed as a volunteer. I will try to send a scanned picture of it. Thank you From harleytilly@yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 20:28:41 2001 From: harleytilly@yahoo.com (harleytilly@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 13:28:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108192028.f7JKSf124525@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi- Do you know where I can buy coyote urine? I am having a mole problem. Thank you. From bacanorajoe@earthlink.net Sun Aug 19 21:25:15 2001 From: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net (J.O. Teague) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 14:25:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Saguaro arms In-Reply-To: <200108191608.f7JG8D105780@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Don't cut the arms...Bobby may be a master gardener, but he's gone to the dark side on this one. I do not know a botanist in Tucson who would recommend cutting a saguaro... Jeremiah Teague Message: 19 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 06:33:28 -0700 From: Bobby To: Tutusues@aol.com CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Removing Saguaro arms To minimize the risk of damage to the saguaros, I would recommend using a straight bladed pruning saw to cut the arms off, as close as possible to the main trunk without cutting the trunk itself. This limits the surface area of the wound. Treat the wound with dusting sulfur after cutting to lessen the risk of infection. Tutusues@aol.com wrote: > > I have mature saguaros which are sending out new arms at ground level. Is it acceptable to remove these arms so as to look better, or will this harm the cactus, or be illegal? They also have several arms at the usual height at about 2/3 of the total height. Thank you for your help. > -- Bobby Alexander southpawaz@home.com From LRBloch@aol.com Mon Aug 20 00:13:41 2001 From: LRBloch@aol.com (LRBloch@aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 20:13:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] AVACADO TREE Message-ID: <115.3765809.28b1b035@aol.com> --part1_115.3765809.28b1b035_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I HAVE AN AVACADO TREE VERY LEAFY ABOUT 10 FFT. TALL VERY HEALTHY BUT NO FRUIT AS OF YET.I BELIEVE THE WONDERFUL TREE IS ABOUT 7 YEARS OLD. CAN I EXPECT FRUIT AND IF SO HOW CAN I HELP,I LIVE IN SOUTH WEST FLOIRDA BELOW TAMPA. THANKS LARRY --part1_115.3765809.28b1b035_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I HAVE AN AVACADO TREE VERY LEAFY ABOUT 10 FFT. TALL VERY HEALTHY BUT NO
FRUIT AS OF YET.I BELIEVE THE WONDERFUL TREE IS ABOUT 7 YEARS OLD. CAN I
EXPECT FRUIT AND IF SO HOW CAN I HELP,I LIVE IN SOUTH WEST FLOIRDA BELOW
TAMPA. THANKS LARRY --part1_115.3765809.28b1b035_boundary-- From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 20 01:16:19 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 18:16:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] AVACADO TREE References: <115.3765809.28b1b035@aol.com> Message-ID: <02e701c12915$b857d320$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_02E4_01C128DB.0B47FAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Grafted plants normally produce fruit within one to two years. If you = raised the tree from a seedling, it will take from 8 - 20 years. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message -----=20 From: LRBloch@aol.com=20 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu=20 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 5:13 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] AVACADO TREE I HAVE AN AVACADO TREE VERY LEAFY ABOUT 10 FFT. TALL VERY HEALTHY BUT = NO=20 FRUIT AS OF YET.I BELIEVE THE WONDERFUL TREE IS ABOUT 7 YEARS OLD. CAN = I=20 EXPECT FRUIT AND IF SO HOW CAN I HELP,I LIVE IN SOUTH WEST FLOIRDA = BELOW=20 TAMPA. THANKS LARRY=20 ------=_NextPart_000_02E4_01C128DB.0B47FAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Grafted plants normally produce fruit within one to two years. If = you=20 raised the tree from a seedling, it will take from 8 - 20 years.
 
Scott Rogers
MG
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 LRBloch@aol.com=20
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 = 5:13=20 PM
Subject: [Arid_gardener] = AVACADO=20 TREE

I HAVE AN = AVACADO TREE=20 VERY LEAFY ABOUT 10 FFT. TALL VERY HEALTHY BUT NO
FRUIT AS OF = YET.I=20 BELIEVE THE WONDERFUL TREE IS ABOUT 7 YEARS OLD. CAN I
EXPECT = FRUIT AND IF=20 SO HOW CAN I HELP,I LIVE IN SOUTH WEST FLOIRDA BELOW
TAMPA. THANKS = LARRY ------=_NextPart_000_02E4_01C128DB.0B47FAA0-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Mon Aug 20 04:47:33 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 21:47:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] The amazing oregon spring tomato References: <200108190942.f7J9gA127970@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008d01c12936$1f9955c0$73ec3604@oemcomputer> Most of my tomato plants are not doing so well under the august tucson heat; I'm awaiting the cooler air of September. But my Orgeon Springs continue to produce tomatoes, even unshaded! Amazing. From S97@AOL.com Mon Aug 20 15:58:48 2001 From: S97@AOL.com (S97@AOL.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 08:58:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108201558.f7KFwm520722@Ag.arizona.edu> Previously, I asked about a Mexican Paloverde that blew down. You said to get a Museum type Could not find one, but had a Sonoran. Is this a good one. They did not tell me any other name this might have. Also how do I sign up to get your newsletter? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 16:12:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 16:12:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peach pit, propagating Message-ID: The book I have available says peach pits need 2 to 3 months of cold stratification to germinate. Either sow the peach pit in autumn and expose to winter temperatures or put peach pits in moist vermiculite or peat in a clear plastic bag, label, and store in the refrigerator at 41 degrees F for 1 to 3 months. then sow as usual in the spring. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: marybeth@madisoncounty.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 09:06:59 -0700 (MST) > >I have a "fresh" peach pit that I would like to start as a tree. Do I just >stick it in a pot with some dirt, water, and love it until it is 12 to 18 >inches and then transplant in the spring or WHAT? Any help will be >wonderful. Thanks, Beth Pettay > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 16:30:59 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 16:30:59 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tree roots Message-ID: Large trees are a very precious resource. I would certainly check with the landlady before doing anything else. Personally, I would happily accept raised patio bricks and sidewalk in exchange for beauty and shade -- my personal opinion only! Go to: http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborist/arbsearch.html to learn about certified arobists link to "Why hire an arborist?" then enter your zipcode to find certified arborists in your area. Linda Drew Master Gardener Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Pat >To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 10:14:44 -0700 > >Hi all, >I am a lurker on this list, soaking up all the good info. I went to my >granddaughters last night and she wanted my help with her yard. She is >renting but the landlady said do whatever will make the yard look nice. The >big problem, which they both realize, is with a large tree which was >planted too close to the front entrance and which has sent large roots >under the small brick patio and the sidewalk. She asked me if someone could >just cut those roots off but my feeling that even if this is possible it >would just happen again. My feeling is that the tree must come down. Where >should she look for expert help? She wanted to call a landscaper but I >think she might not get the right advice from landscapers as they primarily >deal with planting and maintaining. I told her I would ask the experts. Can >anyone here tell me how she should proceed with this problem? Thanks, > >Pat in Phoenix > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Mon Aug 20 18:19:39 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:19:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108201558.f7KFwm520722@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010820110128.00aaeba0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_9630668==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed The Desert Museum palo verde is available at most nurseries from 15 gallon to 24 inch box. If they don't have it in stock, they can order it for you. (The major grower, Mountain States Wholesale Nursery is in Glendale). Ask the manager if the nursery assistant you deal with doesn't know the tree. You will not find it at your local home improvement store. The Sonoran palo verde is also known as Palo Brea. The scientific name is Cercidium praecox. This tree has an angular growth pattern to its branches and green bark. It does have thorns and will drop seed pods. Mature size is 25' x 25'. The best time to plant is October. If you wait until then it will be cooler for you and the tree you select. Planting at this time will allow your tree will have all winter to establish an extensive root system before the heat of summer begins next year. The Horticultural Communicator is available by subscription for $15.00 per year. Ordering information can be located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm Kind regards, Cathy Rymer U of A Instructional Specialist Certified Arborist At 08:58 AM 08/20/2001 -0700, S97@AOL.com wrote: >Previously, I asked about a Mexican Paloverde that blew down. You said to >get a Museum type Could not find one, but had a Sonoran. Is this a good >one. They did not tell me any other name this might have. Also how do I >sign up to get your newsletter? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --=====================_9630668==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" The Desert Museum palo verde is available at most nurseries from 15 gallon to 24 inch box.  If they don't have it in stock, they can order it for you.  (The major grower, Mountain States Wholesale Nursery is in Glendale).   Ask the manager if the nursery assistant you deal with doesn't know the tree. You will not find it at your local home improvement store.

The Sonoran palo verde is also known as Palo Brea.  The scientific name is Cercidium praecox.  This tree has an angular growth pattern to its branches and green bark.  It does  have thorns and will drop seed pods.  Mature size is 25' x 25'. 

The best time to plant is October.  If you wait until then it will be cooler for you and the tree you select.  Planting at this time will allow your tree will have all winter to establish an extensive root system before the heat of summer begins next year.

The Horticultural Communicator is available by subscription for $15.00 per year.  Ordering information can be located at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm

Kind regards,

Cathy Rymer
U of A Instructional Specialist
Certified Arborist

At 08:58 AM 08/20/2001 -0700, S97@AOL.com wrote:
Previously, I asked about a Mexican Paloverde that blew down.  You said to get a Museum type  Could not find one, but had a Sonoran.  Is this a good one.  They did not tell me any other name this might have.  Also how do I sign up to get your newsletter?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
--=====================_9630668==_.ALT-- From muriels53@aol.com Mon Aug 20 18:44:27 2001 From: muriels53@aol.com (muriels53@aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:44:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108201844.f7KIiR521359@Ag.arizona.edu> My neighbor has a problem in her lawn that sounds like pearl scale. What do you use to treat that? From Laura.Anderson@phoenix.edu Mon Aug 20 18:52:15 2001 From: Laura.Anderson@phoenix.edu (Laura Anderson) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:52:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: I am moving into a new (used) home that has catclaws along the block fence. They look great and are very healthy. At what time of year should they be trimmed back? Do they die out in the winter time? Any advice on the care of these plants would be appreciated. Thank you!!! Laura Anderson, a.k.a.-SHOTGUN Corporate Enrollment Administrator Apollo Group, Inc. 4615 E. Elwood St. Phoenix, AZ 85040 (480) 557-1472 laura.anderson@apollogrp.edu From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 20 19:08:57 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 12:08:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200108201844.f7KIiR521359@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <005d01c129ab$90cec160$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Pearl Scale is a big problem on sodded Bermuda grasses.Unfortunately, there is no good method to control them . The pearl scale feeds on the roots, so getting insecticide down in the soil where the insects are is difficult, and insecticides are not that effective against them. Use the link below to access pearl scale information from the University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension Office. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 11:44 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > My neighbor has a problem in her lawn that sounds like pearl scale. What do you use to treat that? From cactuschicks@redrivernet.com Mon Aug 20 21:16:38 2001 From: cactuschicks@redrivernet.com (cactuschicks@redrivernet.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:16:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108202116.f7KLGb503795@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi we are trying to find out how to get rid of a pest?? we were told it is called cocinehel? it is on cacti? mostly on cholla, little on opuntia,s none on others. it is like white cotton'webby ? bleeds blood red when you try to wash off ?? spreads fast to other cholla. diazinon and dursban dosent effect it????? thank you for help Rachele From southpawaz@home.com Mon Aug 20 21:45:45 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:45:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Saguaro arms References: Message-ID: <3B818509.B4A6BF20@home.com> Jeremiah, I'm sorry you disagree with the advice I gave. I was not really addressing the question of whether to remove the new arms or not, since that is only really answerable by the person who asked the question. >From this question and from additional information from a previous question from this individual (which went unanswered): "The new ground level arms will interfere with a pathway and look somewhat unsightly," it sounded to me like they would like to remove the arms. I simply advised how to do it, without commenting on whether or not to do it. If your advice to this individual would be, "even though you don't like how they look, and they interfere with your walkway, you will have to suffer that and not cut the arms because..." feel free to complete this sentence and send it along. Frankly, I don't think that would be very helpful advice, unless there are strong reasons not to cut the arms, which you have not stated. I believe that cutting the arms would be no worse for the saguaro than damage it would receive from natural causes (birds, etc.). Sometimes nature interferes with the best of plans. This saguaro decided it was going to have low arms, which was probably not considered when it was planted since the occurrence of low arms is not very common. It now conflicts with both the individual's aesthetic and their hardscape. Why not prune it? We prune trees in this situation, what makes a saguaro any different? "J.O. Teague" wrote: > > Don't cut the arms...Bobby may be a master gardener, but he's gone to the > dark side on this one. I do not know a botanist in Tucson who would > recommend cutting a saguaro... > Jeremiah Teague > > Message: 19 > Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 06:33:28 -0700 > From: Bobby > To: Tutusues@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Removing Saguaro arms > > To minimize the risk of damage to the saguaros, I would recommend using > a straight bladed pruning saw to cut the arms off, as close as possible > to the main trunk without cutting the trunk itself. This limits the > surface area of the wound. Treat the wound with dusting sulfur after > cutting to lessen the risk of infection. > > Tutusues@aol.com wrote: > > > > I have mature saguaros which are sending out new arms at ground level. Is > it acceptable to remove these arms so as to look better, or will this harm > the cactus, or be illegal? They also have several arms at the usual height > at about 2/3 of the total height. Thank you for your help. > > > > -- > Bobby Alexander > southpawaz@home.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 20 21:40:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 17:40:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale Message-ID: --part1_f6.e50b126.28b2dddf_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rachele, The best approach to get rid of Cochineal Scale is to wash it off the cacti with a strong stream of water. The red you are seeing is from the insect that is concealed under the white coating, the Indians used it for a red dye. The reason the insecticide sprays have not worked is that they will not penetrate the white coating where the insect is concealed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f6.e50b126.28b2dddf_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Rachele,
The best approach to get rid of Cochineal Scale is to wash it off the cacti
with a strong stream of water. The red you are seeing is from the insect that
is concealed under the white coating, the Indians used it for a red dye. The
reason the insecticide sprays have not worked is that they will not penetrate
the white coating where the insect is concealed.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f6.e50b126.28b2dddf_boundary-- From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 20 22:02:47 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 15:02:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale References: <200108202116.f7KLGb503795@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <008e01c129c3$da0affc0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> What you have is cochineal scale. If left untreated the cochineal multiplies and covers the plant. This is not only an eyesore; it can weaken and kill the host plant as the insect is sucking the plant juices. Here is a link that discusses the different methods of dealing with this pest. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html An interesting aside is that after Cortez invaded the new world, he found the Aztecs using cochineal scale as a dye for their fabrics. The red color was not marched by anything in the old world. It soon became Spain's third most valuable export. It is still used as a coloring agent in some cosmetics and beverages. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 2:16 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Hi > we are trying to find out how to get rid of a pest?? we were told it is called cocinehel? > it is on cacti? mostly on cholla, little on opuntia,s none on others. it is like white cotton'webby ? bleeds blood red when you try to wash off ?? spreads fast to other cholla. > diazinon and dursban dosent effect it????? > > thank you for help Rachele From clydic@theriver.com Mon Aug 20 21:51:26 2001 From: clydic@theriver.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 14:51:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.0.20010819100800.02af1140@mail.winstarmail.com> Message-ID: I agree with Linda Drew regarding removal of a large tree because of its roots. Be thankful you have the lovely shade and consider the lumps, bumps, rolls etc., as character lines!! Large trees are a precious commodity. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Pat Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 10:15 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Hi all, I am a lurker on this list, soaking up all the good info. I went to my granddaughters last night and she wanted my help with her yard. She is renting but the landlady said do whatever will make the yard look nice. The big problem, which they both realize, is with a large tree which was planted too close to the front entrance and which has sent large roots under the small brick patio and the sidewalk. She asked me if someone could just cut those roots off but my feeling that even if this is possible it would just happen again. My feeling is that the tree must come down. Where should she look for expert help? She wanted to call a landscaper but I think she might not get the right advice from landscapers as they primarily deal with planting and maintaining. I told her I would ask the experts. Can anyone here tell me how she should proceed with this problem? Thanks, Pat in Phoenix _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 22:46:31 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 22:46:31 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cat's claw vine Message-ID: Here is what I was able to find in the Sunset Garden Book: Cat's Claw/Yellow Trumpet Vine (Macfadyena unguis-cati) Vigorous vine climbs high and fast by hooked, clawlike, forked tendrils. Takes full sun and moderate water. Blooms in early spring. After bloom, cut back some stems nearly to ground to stimulate new growth lower down. During growing season, pinch back vigorous shoots as needed. Evergreen where frosts are light or absent; partially to completely deciduous in colder areas. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Laura Anderson >To: "'Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu'" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 11:52:15 -0700 > >I am moving into a new (used) home that has catclaws along the block fence. >They look great and are very healthy. At what time of year should they be >trimmed back? Do they die out in the winter time? Any advice on the care >of these plants would be appreciated. > >Thank you!!! > > >Laura Anderson, a.k.a.-SHOTGUN >Corporate Enrollment Administrator >Apollo Group, Inc. >4615 E. Elwood St. >Phoenix, AZ 85040 >(480) 557-1472 >laura.anderson@apollogrp.edu > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From mvirginiac@aol.com Tue Aug 21 00:24:22 2001 From: mvirginiac@aol.com (mvirginiac@aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 17:24:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108210024.f7L0OM520390@Ag.arizona.edu> I saw a tree and fell in love with it. But I can't seem to fine it in my Sunset garden book or anywhere else. Could you please give me some information on the Sissoo Tree, I have also seen it listed as Delbergia. Does this tree need alot of water? Is it an evergreen? How does it take the summer heat and monshoon storms? Any information you can give me is appreciated. Thank you, Virginia From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Aug 21 00:50:38 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 17:50:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sissoo Tree References: <200108210024.f7L0OM520390@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <015e01c129db$4d0a93c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi Virginia, Here is a link that provides information about the Dalbergia Sissoo (Indian Rosewood) http://www.hortpix.com/pc1385.htm Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 20, 2001 5:24 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I saw a tree and fell in love with it. But I can't seem to fine it in my Sunset garden book or anywhere else. Could you please give me some information on the Sissoo Tree, I have also seen it listed as Delbergia. > Does this tree need alot of water? Is it an evergreen? How does it take the summer heat and monshoon storms? Any information you can give me is appreciated. > > Thank you, > Virginia From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 14:20:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:20:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200108201844.f7KIiR521359@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B826E11.C1FA309C@qwest.net> In the UA's urban pest mgmt website, they are now recommending acidifying the soil [e.g. sulfur application] to make the environment less friendly to the pearl scale (item3) http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/groundpearls.html Some nurseries and landscape professionals have been doing this, as well as recommending applciations of Merit, which has NOT been approved for this particular problem. muriels53@aol.com wrote: > My neighbor has a problem in her lawn that sounds like pearl scale. What do you use to treat that? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 14:24:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:24:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal References: <200108202116.f7KLGb503795@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B826F30.345F64C4@qwest.net> In addition to Rod's reply, if the infestation is very heavy it can spread quickly and result in the death of the individual prickly pear pads. If it gets away from you even with blasting with water, cut off the most severely impacted pads. http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/cochineal.html Linda Guy, MG cactuschicks@redrivernet.com wrote: > Hi > we are trying to find out how to get rid of a pest?? we were told it is called cocinehel? > it is on cacti? mostly on cholla, little on opuntia,s none on others. it is like white cotton'webby ? bleeds blood red when you try to wash off ?? spreads fast to other cholla. > diazinon and dursban dosent effect it????? > > thank you for help Rachele > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 14:32:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:32:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cat's Claw Vine [Macfadyena unguis-cati] References: <200108090107.f7917Nr04281@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B827107.1B621FC1@qwest.net> I've grown it before and although traces of the claws remained on the masonry surfaces when the plant was pruned back, I never noticed dislodging of the material. However, to be safe, why not follow the recommended cultural practice of a hard prune in the spring time [post bloom cycle] to revitalize growth and to control what can be a very boisterous grower?! Linda Guy, MG Tanveerj5721@aol.com wrote: > I have planted catsclaw in my backyard which has gone to the tile roof. My neighbor told me that the catsclaw can make the tiles loose and they will fall off. I want to know if this is true? Please e-mail the answer. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 14:45:28 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:45:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie Problems References: <200108111558.f7BFw9r28151@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B827408.72975AC9@qwest.net> First of all, you ARE having success with your chiles. Let's chalk one up for you! Tomatoes have a tough time when temps reach out of the 90's. Too hot to pollinate. Next year, try setting your plants out earlier [I do mine sometimes as early as February with wall-o-waters for frost protection and to speed growth]. Onions are not grown this time of year, assuming you're in the Phoenix area. They are cool season crops, when we grow everything whose roots, shoots, leaves and flowers are eaten. Warm season veggies are basically the fruits [tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, squash, beans, corn]. Are your zucchini being attacked by anything? Maybe you have white flies http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/whitefly.htm or powdery mildew? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/pdr-mldw.htm Sounds as if your zucchini are not being pollinated either, and itf this happens, you need to do so by hand. When this condition arises, fruits will set but not exceed the length you are experiencing. Don't give up yet. You sound like you took great care to start with good soil. Remember that whenever you apply compost, give the soil at least a two week rest before planting. Additional decomposition can temporarily rob the soil of nutrients for transplants. Here is some recommended reading. First Timely Tips tells you what to be doing in the garden, and what you could be facing problem-wise on a month to month basis. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm Next, study up on what gets planted when http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable Consider our book on vegetable gardening.... http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/dsrtgdn.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG vbrand4@home.com wrote: > I have a sad garden. My zuccini have large pale/silver leaves, white stems, the fruit is white - grows to about 3 inches then wilts. My tomato plants have grown but produce very little fruit which rots before ripening (this could be because of the hot weather - I did plant late). The chilies are doing well but the plants are very tall- 3.5 feet. My onions are pitiful little sprouts after 5 months of constant attention. We get flood irrigation 2x per month, I flood the garden every other day in between or when it looksfeels dried out. I fertilize 1x per month with an organic garden fertilizer. A 5-5-5 mixture. When prep the garden I dug down 2 feet and removed 1/3 of some very clay soil. I dug in 5 largest size bags of compost/ mulch. it is under a mulberry tree and gets 1/2 day sun and filtered the rest of the day. Help :( > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 14:52:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 07:52:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mediterranean Fan Palms References: <200108141936.f7EJaW113760@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8275B7.B77D854@qwest.net> You might begin by comparing your cultural practices with those listed in our palm publication [page 13] at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Many side stems are quite common, and often folks will prune these to create a more formal structure. Too many can eventually become a grooming problem. I'm wondering if it doesn't need a bit more water, albeit this is a pretty tough palm. The mature part of the palm may be well enough established, but the pups simply aren't getting all that they need. How are the emitters placed around the base of the plant? Linda Guy, MG Evelyn.Gholson@Microchip.com wrote: > I have 2 Mediterranean Fan Palms (both are multi-trunk and over 10 years old) with individual leaves/fronds dying. Looks like the fronds either initially turn brown and die or else the base of the frond stem turns brown and weak (fronds are still green), then the stem bends from the weakness and hangs down. I noticed this condition about 2-3 weeks ago and this is the first time this has happened to these palms. Can you please advise what possibly is the cause and how to treat? Thanks for your help! > > Best regards, > Evelyn Gholson > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 15:00:26 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:00:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cukes References: <200108141917.f7EJHR110697@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B82778A.227F3710@qwest.net> I'm not sure I have the answer you seek, only observations from my own garden. My cukes are amongst the first of the summer time vegetables to burn up as the temperatures mount. If you are nursing along cukes now [August] they probably have a bit of pm shade? However, the temps are such that pollination is problematic, perhaps leading to your curlicues? Just speculation, which may or not be helpful. Linda Guy, MG JLibby@pwd.org wrote: > My Straight 8 cucumbers always seem to grow short and round. I do not have a problem with pickling cukes in same soil. What should I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 15:09:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:09:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Germinating Peach Pit References: <200108191606.f7JG6x105671@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8279C4.E5768263@qwest.net> May I add a few thoughts to Linda's excellent reply? If you are anticipating the fruit of this new tree you sprout, please be aware that unless you know the variety, you may not have a tree that receives adequate winter chilling time to set fruit. For Maricopa County, the recommendation is no more than 250 hours [fact sheet MC-90]. Most are grown from graftings on root stock that resist pathogens and perform better in local soils. A tree from a pit may not reproduce the same fruit or fruiting capacity. The Fruit & Nut fact sheet I mentioned is available at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Fruits If you seek an ornamental only, then my musings are unimportant to you! Linda Guy, MG marybeth@madisoncounty.net wrote: > I have a "fresh" peach pit that I would like to start as a tree. Do I just stick it in a pot with some dirt, water, and love it until it is 12 to 18 inches and then transplant in the spring or WHAT? Any help will be wonderful. Thanks, Beth Pettay > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 15:10:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 08:10:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit tree References: <9F99EF30518FD41197D400508BE3172AD56436@laexch1.orrick.com> Message-ID: <3B8279D9.9F608AB@qwest.net> You may be better served by our counterparts in your own county's cooperative extension office. You can find their phone number in the government listings of the phone directory. Linda Guy, MG "Goetz, Margaret A." wrote: > I live in Pasadena, California, where it's extremely hot during the summer. > I have a grapefruit tree which is watered regularly. I was out of the > country for about two months and returned last week to find the tree's > leaves covered with what appear to be white scales. I've tried washing them > off, but they quickly reappear. Do you have any idea what this might be > and, if so, how I can combat it? If you're not sure, would you perhaps be > able to direct me to someone or some institution which might know? > > Thank you in advance for your assistance. > > > > NOTICE TO RECIPIENT: THIS E-MAIL IS MEANT FOR ONLY THE INTENDED RECIPIENT OF THE TRANSMISSION, AND MAY BE A COMMUNICATION PRIVILEGED BY LAW. IF YOU RECEIVED THIS E-MAIL IN ERROR, ANY REVIEW, USE, DISSEMINATION, DISTRIBUTION, OR COPYING OF THIS E-MAIL IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PLEASE NOTIFY US IMMEDIATELY OF THE ERROR BY RETURN E-MAIL AND PLEASE DELETE THIS MESSAGE FROM YOUR SYSTEM. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR COOPERATION. > http://www.orrick.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From guthries@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 18:25:12 2001 From: guthries@qwest.net (guthries@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 11:25:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108211825.f7LIPC527995@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the proper way to trim a Texas Ebony? From sjarosik@cskauto.com Tue Aug 21 19:43:51 2001 From: sjarosik@cskauto.com (sjarosik@cskauto.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 12:43:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108211943.f7LJhp518096@Ag.arizona.edu> I have small pieces of lawn in both the back and front of my house. I water both pieces the same; 3 times per week for 30 minutes. The back of my house faces pretty much due East and the front faces due West. I have one tree in the lawn in the front and the same type tree that is not in the lawn but over hangs the lawn also in the front. The lawn under both of these trees appears to be dying. During the early part of the year (spring and early summer) the lawn looked fine. Recently, spots under the trees only, appear to be dying. The lawn in back, which does not have trees, is doing well. Any suggestions on what can be causing the problem and what I can do to correct it? From Krulich@aol.com Tue Aug 21 21:32:20 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 17:32:20 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question regarding grapefruits Message-ID: <116.390595f.28b42d64@aol.com> I have a question regarding my grapefruits. I am not sure exactly what kind they are, but they are the yellow variety, not the pink. Right now they average approximately 3 inches in diameter. Should they be larger than that by now? Also, they are all soft like very ripe grapefruits, yet they are still green. Is this normal, or should they be hard? Thanks, Tom From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 21 21:38:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 14:38:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trimming Texas Ebony References: <200108211825.f7LIPC527995@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B82D4C9.9EE0BB9C@qwest.net> Very carefully, [long sleeves and gloves] as it is well-armored! Late winter is the preferred time for any significant pruning, which isn't often required on this beauty. In the first few years the lower branches are left on the tree to help strengthen the main trunk. Thereafter begin to gradually prune up to create a higher canopy. I just love this tree, and mine rarely gets a haircut, except to contain a few exuberant branches which may have grown beyond the general shape of the tree. For general instructions on pruning techniques, see our Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Linda Guy, MG guthries@qwest.net wrote: > What is the proper way to trim a Texas Ebony? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 21 23:17:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:17:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf grass in the shade Message-ID: <138.630f1b.28b44610@aol.com> --part1_138.630f1b.28b44610_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Most hot weather grasses especially bermuda do not do well in the shade. If you have not been giving the trees supplimental water over what the grass gets the trees have been robbing the grass of water causing the grass to die. At least once a month the trees should be deep watered to a depth of at least 3 feet. If shade is the problem you might try raising the crown of the trees to allow the grass to get more sunshine. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_138.630f1b.28b44610_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Most hot weather grasses especially bermuda do not do well in the shade. If
you have not been giving the trees supplimental water over what the grass
gets the trees have been robbing the grass of water causing the grass  to
die. At least once a month the trees should be deep watered to a depth of at
least  3 feet. If shade is the problem you might try raising the crown of the
trees to allow the grass to get more sunshine.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_138.630f1b.28b44610_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 21 23:17:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:17:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Brazilian Pepper Message-ID: --part1_c9.1474e816.28b44616_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Steve, Lets start out with some basic facts about the Brazilian Pepper tree. 1. It is a moderate to heavy water use tree and as such must be deep watered periodically to a three foot depth throughout its entire root zone. 2. It is susceptable to two deadly diseases, Texas Root Rot and Verticillium Wilt. Both of these fungi are available in the low desert soils especially those where cotton has been planted. Both of the above fungi can cause a tree to colapse in a very short period of time, TRR is active in hot weather of summer and Verticillium is active in cooler weather of spring and fall. Both fungi sometimes may cause only part of a tree to colapse while the remainder of the tree may live on for a year or more. Symptoms of both can be yellowing leaves which turn brown. Another item that can cause an early death of a tree is a root ball that is root bound when planted. Knowledgeable tree planters will cut the root bound roots to allow them to grow away from the root ball. Were the trees planted in a hole that was three to five times the width of the root ball and only as deep as the root ball ? Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture for info on planting, pruning and irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Publications describing Texas Root Rot and Verticillium Wilt are available for $1.00 each from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c9.1474e816.28b44616_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Steve,
Lets start out with some basic facts about the Brazilian Pepper tree.
1. It is a moderate to heavy water use tree and as such must be deep watered
periodically to a three foot depth throughout its entire root zone.
2. It is susceptable to two deadly diseases, Texas Root Rot and Verticillium
Wilt. Both of these fungi are available in the low desert soils especially
those where cotton has been planted.

Both of the above fungi can cause a tree to colapse in a very short period of
time, TRR is active in hot weather of summer and Verticillium is active in
cooler weather of spring and fall. Both fungi sometimes may cause only part
of a tree to colapse while the remainder of the tree may live on for a year
or more. Symptoms of both can be yellowing leaves which turn brown.

Another item that can cause an early death of a tree is a root ball that is
root bound when planted. Knowledgeable tree planters will cut the  root bound
roots to allow them to grow away from the root ball.

Were the trees planted in a hole that was three to five times the width of
the root ball and only as deep as the root ball ?

Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture for info on
planting, pruning and irrigation at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Publications describing Texas Root Rot and Verticillium Wilt are available
for $1.00 each from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway,
Phoenix 85040.


Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_c9.1474e816.28b44616_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 21 23:17:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:17:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Ebony, Pruning Message-ID: <68.131e2695.28b44615@aol.com> --part1_68.131e2695.28b44615_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The proper way to prune a Texas Ebony is DON'T. This tree is very sensative to pruning, if you must prune then keep it to an absolute minimum. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist. --part1_68.131e2695.28b44615_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The proper way to prune a Texas Ebony is DON'T. This tree is very sensative
to pruning, if you must prune then keep it to an absolute minimum.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist.

--part1_68.131e2695.28b44615_boundary-- From schtixandwarner@home.com Tue Aug 21 23:39:02 2001 From: schtixandwarner@home.com (schtixandwarner@home.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 16:39:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108212339.f7LNd2510495@Ag.arizona.edu> Precisely how often should a Mexican Fan Palm Tree be watered? (Please include in your answer for what time duration, and how much water.) Thanks for your help! Your website is has some terrific information!!! From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 22 02:07:09 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 19:07:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question regarding grapefruits In-Reply-To: <116.390595f.28b42d64@aol.com> Message-ID: I think that your grapefruits are doing fine. They will probably grow a little more and start turning yellow in the winter, ready for sweet picking in January or thereafter. I probably have the same kind of tree as you do and this is how mine look each year at this time. By the way, this is a good time to feed citrus with a food high in nitrogen or with a citrus fertilizer. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, But a Grapefruit Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Krulich@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 2:32 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question regarding grapefruits I have a question regarding my grapefruits. I am not sure exactly what kind they are, but they are the yellow variety, not the pink. Right now they average approximately 3 inches in diameter. Should they be larger than that by now? Also, they are all soft like very ripe grapefruits, yet they are still green. Is this normal, or should they be hard? Thanks, Tom _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 22 11:38:36 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 04:38:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question regarding grapefruits References: <116.390595f.28b42d64@aol.com> Message-ID: <00d201c12afe$fba467c0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi Tom, Ursula is right in her assessment of your grapefruit.. Since I have never squeezed one of my green grapefruit I went out and did so. They are quite a bit softer than the green oranges, so I cut one open--it was fine. As to the fertilizer. the current thinking is that it might be better to wait until after labor day to fertilize. There is a excellent fact sheet "Fertilizing Citrus Trees (MC91)hat is available at any of the four Maricopa County Cooperative Extension offices. You can pick it up for free, or send the main office in Phoenix $1.00 and they will mail it to you. Use this link to find the addresses of the offices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Grapefruit trees require 1/2 the amount of fertilizer given to orange trees. Over fertilization results in thicker rinds and fruit that is less sweet. Scott Rogerrs MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2001 2:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question regarding grapefruits > I have a question regarding my grapefruits. I am not sure exactly what kind > they are, but they are the yellow variety, not the pink. Right now they > average approximately 3 inches in diameter. Should they be larger than that > by now? Also, they are all soft like very ripe grapefruits, yet they are > still green. Is this normal, or should they be hard? > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From guthries@qwest.net Wed Aug 22 14:50:05 2001 From: guthries@qwest.net (John and Linda Guthrie) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:50:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trimming Texas Ebony References: <200108211825.f7LIPC527995@Ag.arizona.edu> <3B82D4C9.9EE0BB9C@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B83C69D.8FAAE092@pop.phnx.qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------CDDF2B92AA6E14200E59706E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you! You have helped me avoid a mistake. I was about to prune the lowest branches, on a young tree, before I made this query. Know I'll wait a few years. John Guthrie Linda Guy wrote: > Very carefully, [long sleeves and gloves] as it is well-armored! > > Late winter is the preferred time for any significant pruning, which > isn't often required on this beauty. In the first few years the lower > branches are left on the tree to help strengthen the main trunk. > Thereafter begin to gradually prune up to create a higher canopy. > > I just love this tree, and mine rarely gets a haircut, except to contain > a few exuberant branches which may have grown beyond the general shape > of the tree. For general instructions on pruning techniques, see our > Master Gardener Manual at > http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html > > Linda Guy, MG > > guthries@qwest.net wrote: > > > What is the proper way to trim a Texas Ebony? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------CDDF2B92AA6E14200E59706E Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="guthries.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for John and Linda Guthrie Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="guthries.vcf" begin:vcard n:Guthrie;John x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:guthries@qwest.net fn:John Guthrie end:vcard --------------CDDF2B92AA6E14200E59706E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 22 14:57:59 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:57:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Honeysuckle. Message-ID: <3B83C877.9956D6AF@qwest.net> Yeah, yeah, it's probably not native, but I'd really, really, really like to grow just one honeysuckle vine up the columns near my rear door, which is also the exit of my therapy room. As a kid, I spent hours reading in the woods, stretched out in piles of what was a weed back there. Got hooked again [my how aromas can evoke such potent memories] when I visited home this summer after a decade away. What do you all know about good ol' Lonicera hear in Phoenix? Don't be shy. Thanks in advance! Linda From guthries@qwest.net Wed Aug 22 14:51:39 2001 From: guthries@qwest.net (John and Linda Guthrie) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 07:51:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Ebony, Pruning References: <68.131e2695.28b44615@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B83C6FB.B862A34@pop.phnx.qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------44D9B8AD9E800709AD2F9DC9 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------9DFC5A3639CE50272E0C330C" --------------9DFC5A3639CE50272E0C330C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks, Rod! One of the two is very near a path so I may have to eventually do some very selective pruning. John Guthrie RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > The proper way to prune a Texas Ebony is DON'T. This tree is very > sensative > to pruning, if you must prune then keep it to an absolute minimum. > > Good luck > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist. > --------------9DFC5A3639CE50272E0C330C Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks, Rod! One of the two is very near a path so I may have to eventually do some very selective pruning.

John Guthrie

RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote:

The proper way to prune a Texas Ebony is DON'T. This tree is very sensative
to pruning, if you must prune then keep it to an absolute minimum.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist.
 

--------------9DFC5A3639CE50272E0C330C-- --------------44D9B8AD9E800709AD2F9DC9 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="guthries.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for John and Linda Guthrie Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="guthries.vcf" begin:vcard n:Guthrie;John x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:guthries@qwest.net fn:John Guthrie end:vcard --------------44D9B8AD9E800709AD2F9DC9-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 22 15:12:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 08:12:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Coyote Urine References: <200108192028.f7JKSf124525@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B83CBD1.E161BDDB@qwest.net> Predator urines are often carried by organic farm supply houses. An example is Peaceful Valley Farm Supply [coyote, fox, bobcat], http://www.groworganic.com/a/a1.html?xKey=43381 Other websites are http://www.predatorpee.com/ [you can even order a ball cap with the logo 'Got Pee?'] http://www.voyager.net/pencom/elmcreekltd/articles/predurine.html http://www.mastergardening.com/predatorurines.html http://www.critterridders.com/predator_urine.htm and there are a whole lot more which any search engine will turn up under 'predator urine'. I read that bobcat would be better to address a mole problem. And don't ask me how it is 'harvested'! We had quite a lively discussion thereon at Monday night's MG advanced class. Other ways to address moles area at Biocontrol Network under creature control http://www.biconet.com/products.html Gardener's Supply http://www.gardeners.com/search.asp Gardens Alive! http://www.gardensalive.com/search.asp Have fun!!!! Let us know what your yard smells like when you use this stuff. Linda Guy, MG harleytilly@yahoo.com wrote: > Hi- > Do you know where I can buy coyote urine? I am having a mole problem. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JFilmans@aol.com Wed Aug 22 15:44:46 2001 From: JFilmans@aol.com (JFilmans@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 08:44:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108221544.f7MFik529499@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I prevent insects from destroying the fruit on a pomegranite tree? They bore holes in the thick skin of the fruit and it rots. I would appreciaste any adive you could give me. Thanks! Joan From carefree2297@aol.com Wed Aug 22 16:07:23 2001 From: carefree2297@aol.com (carefree2297@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 09:07:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108221607.f7MG7N504107@Ag.arizona.edu> my three year old mexican palo verde has brown scale or fungus looking stuff--also some hole in the limbs-what can the matter be? thanks From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 22 20:23:11 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 13:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pomegranate Insects. References: <200108221544.f7MFik529499@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c12b48$4ce99260$1851530c@j0r9501> Grey-colored leaf-footed bugs feeding on pomegranates are very common this time of year. They are usually attracted by splitting of the fruit, also a very common occurrence which may be due to irregular watering or too much watering late in the monsoon season while the ambient humidity is still high. One way to keep the bugs off the fruit is to cover it with some breathable material like a paper bag. Don't use plastic. But first identify the insect. See http://pollinator.com/leaffootedbug.htm This one is from back east. Ours tend to be grayer but are otherwise similar. See also http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/leaf-ft.htm for some more information. Olin Miller ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I prevent insects from destroying the fruit on a pomegranite tree? They bore holes in the thick skin of the fruit and it rots. I would appreciaste any adive you could give me. Thanks! Joan From dhaag1474@earthlink.net Wed Aug 22 22:15:42 2001 From: dhaag1474@earthlink.net (Dennis Haag) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 17:15:42 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] no blooms Message-ID: <412001832222154240@earthlink.net> ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII my vines are very healthy but not blooming...I also planted white hyacinth beans by mistake and looking forward to seeing their bloom. Can you tell me what the problem is? Thank you --- Dennis Haag --- dhaag1474@earthlink.net --- EarthLink: It's your Internet. ------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8 Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII

my vines are very healthy but not blooming...I also planted white hyacinth beans by mistake and looking forward to seeing their bloom. Can you tell me what the problem is? Thank you
 
--- Dennis Haag
--- EarthLink: It's your Internet.
 

------=_NextPart_84815C5ABAF209EF376268C8-- From poodle101750@aol.com Wed Aug 22 23:29:00 2001 From: poodle101750@aol.com (poodle101750@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 16:29:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108222329.f7MNT0509257@Ag.arizona.edu> My hibiscus shrubs are not blooming now. The leaves look really good, but no blooms. Do I need to fertilize. If so, what do I use? Thank you! From suzanne.bachman@mail.bcop.com Wed Aug 22 23:59:58 2001 From: suzanne.bachman@mail.bcop.com (suzanne.bachman@mail.bcop.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 16:59:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108222359.f7MNxw517458@Ag.arizona.edu> How do Japenese Iris's do here in Phoenix? I'd be planting them on the east side of my house. Also, what about Bearded Iris? What's the secret to growing Cosmos? I love them, but haven't had much luck with them. My Texas Sage doesn't bloom nearly as much as others that I have seen. Could I be watering it too much? Thank-you, Suzanne From umiller@azdps.com Thu Aug 23 01:27:49 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 18:27:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus not blooming In-Reply-To: <200108222329.f7MNT0509257@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Mine aren't blooming right now, either. I'm not an expert - other than the fact that I have several of them in my yard that are doing well. They bloom heavily in the spring but not much during the hot months. I don't remember now if they bloom in the fall. On the fertilizing, I feed them regularly (monthly or so) during in the spring with regular shrub fertilizer and when the leaves turn yellow (veins green, leaves yellowish) I give them chelated iron. In the summer I cut back on the fertilizing. I don't know if this is what's supposed to be done, but it works for me. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of poodle101750@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2001 4:29 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My hibiscus shrubs are not blooming now. The leaves look really good, but no blooms. Do I need to fertilize. If so, what do I use? Thank you! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 23 03:21:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:21:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fan Palm watering Message-ID: --part1_c.19e276bf.28b5d0bc_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your questions and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_c.19e276bf.28b5d0bc_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your
questions and is available on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_c.19e276bf.28b5d0bc_boundary-- From yumalyn@aol.com Thu Aug 23 03:23:34 2001 From: yumalyn@aol.com (yumalyn@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 20:23:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108230323.f7N3NY511061@Ag.arizona.edu> We live in Yuma and are wondering how to water our trees. We have Ficus, Willow Acacia, Manzanita and Oleander trees. We have been told to water well for the first few months and then not to water at all so they will send their roots down deep. I this correct? We would appreciate any advice. Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 23 03:32:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 23:32:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees Message-ID: --part1_f4.e621838.28b5d347_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your questions and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_f4.e621838.28b5d347_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your
questions and is available on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_f4.e621838.28b5d347_boundary-- From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Thu Aug 23 05:29:50 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2001 22:29:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108212339.f7LNd2510495@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010823052950.6623.qmail@web13008.mail.yahoo.com> I water mine every 10-14 days during the summer and water to a depth of about 3-4 feet --- schtixandwarner@home.com wrote: > Precisely how often should a Mexican Fan Palm Tree > be watered? (Please include in your answer for what > time duration, and how much water.) > > Thanks for your help! Your website is has some > terrific information!!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From rubilhaque@yahoo.com Thu Aug 23 08:04:48 2001 From: rubilhaque@yahoo.com (rabiul haque) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 01:04:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information required on Potato and Sweet potato cultivation procedure Message-ID: <20010823080448.45762.qmail@web10801.mail.yahoo.com> Dear sir, Thanks for information provided on date palm cultivation.It was of great help to me. Again it will be of great help to me if you please provide me with information on potato and sweet potato cultivation procedure. Thanking you Mohd Rabiul Haque e-mail- rubilhaque@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From rubilhaque@yahoo.com Thu Aug 23 08:32:00 2001 From: rubilhaque@yahoo.com (rabiul haque) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 01:32:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Date palm production In-Reply-To: <019501c128b7$583e7920$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <20010823083200.18075.qmail@web10805.mail.yahoo.com> Dear Mr Rogers, Thank you for the information on date palm cultivation.It was of great help to me. Please can you provide me with information on cultivation procedure of Potato and Sweet Poatato. Thanking you. Mohd Rabiul Haque --- Scott Rogers wrote: > Mr Haque: > > Here is a link that has the information you are > looking for: > http://www.xeri.com/xeriscape/palms/dates.htm > > Scott Rogers > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2001 2:42 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW > page > > > > Dear sir, > > It will be of great help to me if you please > provide me with the > information of date palm plantation procedure. > > Thanking you > > rabiul haque > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Thu Aug 23 10:58:16 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 03:58:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information required on Potato and Sweet potato cultivation procedure References: <20010823080448.45762.qmail@web10801.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005d01c12bc2$86869020$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Mr. Haque, There are several publications on gardening that available that are available at any of the four Maricopa County Cooperative Extension offices. You can pick them up for free, or send the main office in Phoenix $1.00 for each publication and they will mail them to you. Use this link to find the list of publications available. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm I would also highly recommend the book "Desert Gardening, Fruits and Vegetables" by George Brookbank You may be able to find a copy at your local library branch, but it is well worth purchasing and can be found at bookstores or it can be purchased off the internet. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: "rabiul haque" To: Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2001 1:04 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information required on Potato and Sweet potato cultivation procedure > Dear sir, > Thanks for information provided on date palm > cultivation.It was of great help to me. > Again it will be of great help to me if you please > provide me with information on potato and sweet potato > cultivation procedure. > Thanking you > Mohd Rabiul Haque From bplmsk@clemson.edu Thu Aug 23 13:10:44 2001 From: bplmsk@clemson.edu (bplmsk@clemson.edu) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 06:10:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108231310.f7NDAi505064@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a top-heavy cactus. Are there any rules that govern the pruning of cactuses? Can any cactus be pruned? From Nhannah@fastq.com Thu Aug 23 14:16:15 2001 From: Nhannah@fastq.com (Nhannah@fastq.com) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 07:16:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108231416.f7NEGF516798@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello Phoenix! I'm back! After a 53 year absence I am moving back from Albuquerque! At last palm trees! As a child all I remember is the French Marigolds and the iris Mother planted. Can the county Cooperataive Extension Agency send me a booklet to my address in Albuq.? I don't expect to be here in Phx. till January as I suspect we will have to build. Thanks, Linda Hannah 6304 Arvilla NE Albuq. NM 87110 From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Aug 23 16:46:37 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 09:46:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] sign me up Message-ID: <20010823164637.32815.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com> Please add me to list so I can get all the mail Cactus Jack Blake __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Aug 23 23:02:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 23:02:21 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus, pruning Message-ID: I am a beginner with cacti, but will start the discussion and others better informed can add. First, it depends on the kind of cactus you have. The prickly pears and chollas should be cut by removing an entire pad or joint. Use a very sharp knife or fine-toothed saw for a clean cut. Pruning shears are more likely to crush the tissue. On branchless or shootless cacti, the apex of the stem may be cut out and used to begin a new plant. The remaining stem may be disfigured or may die. Could you describe what you mean by top-heavy. Perhaps a change in the way you are caring for the cacti is needed. Too much water and/or nutrient may cause abnormal growth. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bplmsk@clemson.edu >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 06:10:44 -0700 (MST) > >I have a top-heavy cactus. Are there any rules that govern the pruning of >cactuses? Can any cactus be pruned? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From recluse1@earthlink.net Thu Aug 23 23:06:27 2001 From: recluse1@earthlink.net (Tuckered Tortoise) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 16:06:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garlic Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010823155124.00a2feb0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Hi from the high desert We are now in Ridgecrest California on the Mojave Desert. I want to plant garlic but am not sure just when to do it. We are having cool nights once or twice a week now it seems. It never really got hot here this summer. The air never feels soft like Tucson evenings :( I guess it's time I thought of this place as home and put down some roots. Anyone have any ideas about garlic here. The local garden club is into pretty flowers, northern gardens, and decorative weed pots. I want to experiment with flavors and texture variations dependent upon the climate and some of the soils native to this region. Any ideas would be so greatly appreciated. Websites, book suggestions, general brainstorming... anything please. At least I can still do my desert tortoise rehab :) Thanks Diane...now the high desert recluse From Lenzingg@aol.com Fri Aug 24 01:25:41 2001 From: Lenzingg@aol.com (Lenzingg@aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 18:25:41 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108240125.f7O1Pf504103@Ag.arizona.edu> Our 25yr old pink grapefruit has large light brown areas of fungus on several of the larger branches as well as the trunk. We fill the water wells around the trees in the front yard (rock lawn) every two weeks and let the water run, keeping the well full for about 6 hours. I poured water with household bleach on the fungus areas, which seemed to stop the spread. Can you tell me what this fungus is caused from and what to do about it? Thank you. Len From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 24 03:22:06 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 23:22:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardening info Message-ID: <7f.194cf329.28b7225e@aol.com> --part1_7f.194cf329.28b7225e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of the best resources available for landscaping in the low desert is the Master Gardener Manual and it is all on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Welcome back to Phoenix, Linda. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_7f.194cf329.28b7225e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of the best resources available for landscaping in the low desert is the
Master Gardener Manual and it is all on line at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html

Welcome back to Phoenix, Linda.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_7f.194cf329.28b7225e_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 24 05:01:23 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2001 22:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] garlic References: <4.2.2.20010823155124.00a2feb0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: <002801c12c5a$4195ce20$4451530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tuckered Tortoise" >... >[...] Any ideas would be so greatly appreciated. > Websites, book suggestions, general brainstorming... anything please. At > least I can still do my desert tortoise rehab :) Try the Nevada Coop Ext at http://www.extension.unr.edu/south/mgarden/ It's also in the Mojave Desert and conditions may be similar. Your closest coop ext office is probably the Kern County office at Bakersfield - contacts at: http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/Countys/kern.htm Might be a good place to begin asking for information. The Inyo/Mono Counties' contact page is at http://danr.ucop.edu/danrdir/ucceDetail.CFM?UCCE__INDEX=1098 Olin Miller From cstephens@infinet-is.com Fri Aug 24 13:53:30 2001 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (cstephens@infinet-is.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 06:53:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108241353.f7ODrU523011@Ag.arizona.edu> Do any of you folks know of an effective control for Rabbit Brush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)? If so, do you know of a source for the product? I've tried Weed B Gone and Roundup to no avail. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Fri Aug 24 14:11:11 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 07:11:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] control for Rabbit Brush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus) References: <200108241353.f7ODrU523011@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009a01c12ca6$a2efc3a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Here is a link that has suggestions for control. http://www.usask.ca/agriculture/plantsci/classes/range/chrysothamnus.html Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, August 24, 2001 6:53 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Do any of you folks know of an effective control for Rabbit Brush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus)? If so, do you know of a source for the product? I've tried Weed B Gone and Roundup to no avail. From meschenk@west.raytheon.com Fri Aug 24 15:26:15 2001 From: meschenk@west.raytheon.com (meschenk@west.raytheon.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:26:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108241526.f7OFQF506033@Ag.arizona.edu> My home is infested with moth's. For the past 3 weeks I have killed 40 to 100 per night. I cannot find where they are coming from and we have never had the problem before. They are brown and about 1-1.25" wingspan. Please help if you can. What pesticide or other remedy you can provide Thank you . From raceparts@aol.com Fri Aug 24 15:35:37 2001 From: raceparts@aol.com (raceparts@aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:35:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108241535.f7OFZb507793@Ag.arizona.edu> I had a Raywood Ash tree planted in my yard a week ago, the leaves are wilted and drying. Is this due to shock and will the tree survive? I gave it some Vitamin B-1 and am watering it everyday. I live in the northwest valley. From Ranger1242@aol.com Fri Aug 24 18:43:01 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 11:43:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108241843.f7OIh1511895@Ag.arizona.edu> What is the grass/weed that is coming up in many bermuda lawns. Its appearence looks similar to a fescue but is thicker and paler.It does not appear to be a broad leaf. it eminates from one little root ball and has a mini-fountain appearence. Also, How do we get rid of this? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Aug 24 20:04:55 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 20:04:55 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] nutsedge, weed Message-ID: What you are describing could be nutsedge. Nutsedge is hard to get rid of because it can produce seeds and runners as well as "nutlets" on the roots that produce new plants. The UA is investigating different herbicides to control purple nutsedge. In the meantime, roundup my work -- but it will also kill any grass that is sprayed also. I have tried digging it up, deep enough to get the nutlets, and it works if you are diligent and persistent -- just takes time. If you can bring a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office we can get a positive ID. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Ranger1242@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 11:43:01 -0700 (MST) > >What is the grass/weed that is coming up in many bermuda lawns. Its >appearence looks similar to a fescue but is thicker and paler.It does not >appear to be a broad leaf. it eminates from one little root ball and has a >mini-fountain appearence. Also, How do we get rid of this? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Aug 24 20:15:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 20:15:34 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] moths Message-ID: THese might be the adult of cutworms or armyworms -- could you bring a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office for a positive ID. These sound like the creatures my grandmother called dusty millers. They are attracted to light and would fly into the house by the dozens in the summer. Tight screens and doors will help keep them out. Turning off outside lights may also keep them from coming to your house. This seems to have been a good year for insects; we are seeing more than usual this summer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: meschenk@west.raytheon.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 08:26:15 -0700 (MST) > >My home is infested with moth's. For the past >3 weeks I have killed 40 to 100 per night. I cannot find where they are >coming from and we have never had the problem before. >They are brown and about 1-1.25" wingspan. Please help if you can. What >pesticide or other >remedy you can provide >Thank you . > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 24 21:41:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 17:41:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nut sedge Message-ID: <126.38dcea8.28b82415@aol.com> --part1_126.38dcea8.28b82415_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The weed you describe sounds like nut sedge. A chemical called Manage will help to control it. It usually requiures more than one application and for this year there is only time for one so I would suggest waiting until next year to apply Manage. I have used it personally and it does work but must be applied precisely according to directions. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_126.38dcea8.28b82415_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The weed you describe sounds like nut sedge. A chemical called Manage will
help to control it. It usually requiures more than one application and for
this year there is only time for one so I would suggest waiting until next
year to apply Manage. I have used it personally and it does work but must be
applied precisely according to directions.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_126.38dcea8.28b82415_boundary-- From imunana@aol.com Sat Aug 25 02:39:06 2001 From: imunana@aol.com (imunana@aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 19:39:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108250239.f7P2d6522606@Ag.arizona.edu> We have a problem with "foxtails". Our dog keeps eating them. We've done everything we know to get rid of them. They are in a part of our yard that we do not use or maintain. The biggest part of this side yard is dried up with no vegetation, however we have a small portion that continues to grow weeds. We've had to take our dog to the vet numerous times to have these foxtails removed from her mouth and fur. Do you have any suggestions? We appreciate any help you can offer. From noanienell2001@yahoo.com Sat Aug 25 23:31:22 2001 From: noanienell2001@yahoo.com (noanienell2001@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 16:31:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108252331.f7PNVM500556@Ag.arizona.edu> I HAVE A LEMON TREE THAT HAS A BLACKENED BRANCH ON IT. iT SEEMS TO HAVE A LITTLE SPOT OF WHITE SUBSTANCE ALSO ON THE BRANCH. tHE TREE HAS LEAVES THAT ARE STARTING TO DRY OUT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. From ric_tami88@hotmail.com Sat Aug 25 23:34:42 2001 From: ric_tami88@hotmail.com (ric_tami88@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 16:34:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108252334.f7PNYg500747@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a cactus; I believe it is a cereus. It is about 12 feet tall, has multiple branches, and large white flowers that open at night. Where can I find exactly what kind I have and care information? Especially I want to know if I can trim/prune it somehow because it is getting too big. Thanks. From ric_tami88@hotmail.com Sat Aug 25 23:37:50 2001 From: ric_tami88@hotmail.com (ric_tami88@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 16:37:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108252337.f7PNbo501016@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a royal solanum. I water it 20 min every 3rd day. At the beginning of the summer I put mulch around it. Over the summer the usually green leaves have all turned yellow and some of the stems from the ground have died. Any ideas? From umiller@azdps.com Sun Aug 26 01:51:43 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 18:51:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shefflera - Need Pinching Back Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12D96.FBE02680 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi - I know that you folks are primarily outdoor specialists, but maybe someone can tell me if shefflera needs pinching back to maintain the bushy appearance. I have a beautiful, full plant and want to keep it that way. I know that some houseplants need pinching to preventy 'legginess' so I'm wondering if this is something I should be doing or maybe this is some kind of wonder plant that just looks great with no work at all. :-} Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12D96.FBE02680 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi - I know that = you folks are=20 primarily outdoor specialists, but maybe someone can tell me if = shefflera needs=20 pinching back to maintain the bushy appearance.  I have a = beautiful, full=20 plant and want to keep it that way.  I know that some houseplants = need=20 pinching to preventy 'legginess' so I'm wondering if this is something I = should=20 be doing or maybe this is some kind of wonder plant that just looks = great=20 with no work at all.  :-} 
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12D96.FBE02680-- From nfivebad@att.net Sun Aug 26 03:28:07 2001 From: nfivebad@att.net (nfivebad@att.net) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 20:28:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108260328.f7Q3S7517340@Ag.arizona.edu> I was recently trimming a Mesquite tree and noticed that a bee nest was attached to one of the branches. The nest is the size of a baseball and the bees are busily expanding it. I don't believe they are the Africanized type of bee - they are not agressive. What advice can you offer for the removal of this bee nest? Thank You Walter Rudat From msacooper@msn.com Sun Aug 26 03:29:17 2001 From: msacooper@msn.com (msacooper@msn.com) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 20:29:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108260329.f7Q3TH517421@Ag.arizona.edu> Please can you tell me the common and botanical name of a common Tempe strret tree we have seen here that has very distinctive sulfa (GREEN) coloured bark. I am avisitor originally from Zimbabweand this tree's bark reminded me very much of the Fever Tree (Acacia xanthophlea) immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in hisreference to " the grey green greasy Limpopo river all strewn around by fever trees ". thank you. From Namaste78@aol.com Sun Aug 26 05:12:21 2001 From: Namaste78@aol.com (Namaste78@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 01:12:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Salvia coccinea Message-ID: <10c.4839239.28b9df35@aol.com> --part1_10c.4839239.28b9df35_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived for over a year and a half. They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for no obvious reason. They receive regular watering (every other day) from a shrubblier and only get morning sun. Is this simply their life expectancy and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem? Any ideas? thanks for any feedback. --part1_10c.4839239.28b9df35_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have an planting bed filled with Salvia coccinea that has thrived for over
a year and a half.  They have all been dying in the last 2 weeks for no
obvious reason.  They receive regular watering (every other day) from a
shrubblier and only get morning sun.  Is this simply their life expectancy
and they are dying a natural death? what could be the problem?  Any ideas?
thanks for any feedback. --part1_10c.4839239.28b9df35_boundary-- From southpawaz@home.com Sun Aug 26 11:11:56 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 04:11:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bee removal References: <200108260328.f7Q3S7517340@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B88D97C.6A64E4DA@home.com> Walter, Bees tend to build their colonies in more sheltered locations than on the branch of a tree, although they will locate temporarily on a tree limb when they have swarmed and are in search of a new home. If the bees you have are swarming and not an established colony, they would tend to be docile and less agressive as they are gorged with honey they will use to stock their new home. In this situation their lack of aggressiveness is not enough to determine whether they are africanized. Because they have become so pervasive, the rule of thumb here in Arizona now is to assume that all bees are africanized. In this situation, as long as the bees are located where they will not be a threat to anyone accidentally disturbing them, I would wait a week or two to see if they relocate of their own accord. If they do not, you should contact a professional removal service. Do not try to remove them yourself. nfivebad@att.net wrote: > > I was recently trimming a Mesquite tree and > noticed that a bee nest was attached to one > of the branches. The nest is the size of a > baseball and the bees are busily expanding it. > I don't believe they are the Africanized type > of bee - they are not agressive. > What advice can you offer for the removal of > this bee nest? > > Thank You Walter Rudat -- Bobby Alexander southpawaz@home.com DBG certified Desert Landscaper From southpawaz@home.com Sun Aug 26 11:24:49 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 04:24:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde Identification References: <200108260329.f7Q3TH517421@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B88DC81.1F2BECCA@home.com> Hello, The tree you saw is most likely one of these: Cercidium praecox, Palo Brea Cercidium floridum, Blue Palo Verde Cercidium microphyllum, Littleleaf Palo Verde. There are also several hybrids used in the landscape trade. msacooper@msn.com wrote: > > Please can you tell me the common and botanical name of a common Tempe strret tree we have seen here that has very distinctive sulfa (GREEN) coloured bark. I am avisitor originally from Zimbabweand this tree's bark reminded me very much of the Fever Tree (Acacia xanthophlea) immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in hisreference to " the grey green greasy Limpopo river all strewn around by fever trees ". > thank you. -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com N*G*G, W*W, R*S, M*A From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Aug 26 12:44:30 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 05:44:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108260328.f7Q3S7517340@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000f01c12e2c$db968cc0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Do not attempt to remove the nest yourself. I repeat DO NOT attempt to remove the nest yourself. The reason that they are appearing docile is that at this time they did not consider you a threat to the nest. Any bees will attack you if they think that you present a risk to the hive. Africanized bees are especially aggressive in defending their hive. Whenever you deal with bees in Arizona, you should consider them as Africanized. Just the slamming of a door or the running of a lawn mower can some times set them off. Don't squirt them with any chemical, or even water from the garden hose. This will aggravate them and they will go for you. I would not even go into the backyard until the nest is removed. The sensible thing to do is simply keep away from them. Look on the Yellow Pages for a service that will come and remove the bees for you. Bees only sting for two reasons: 1) If they perceive you as a threat to themselves. 2) If they perceive you as a risk to the hive. Bees that are foraging for nectar and pollen rarely present a problem(unless you swat at them). But any bee will become defensive (and especially those that have been Africanized) if they consider you a risk to the hive. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 8:28 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I was recently trimming a Mesquite tree and > noticed that a bee nest was attached to one > of the branches. The nest is the size of a > baseball and the bees are busily expanding it. > I don't believe they are the Africanized type > of bee - they are not agressive. > What advice can you offer for the removal of > this bee nest? > > Thank You Walter Rudat From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sun Aug 26 15:19:43 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 11:19:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Perfect Raised Bed Message-ID: <10d.4c21959.28ba6d8f@aol.com> A fellow I know has an old pickup truck that still runs and he planted the bed with vegetables. He keeps it out in the yard. It is high enough to not have to stoop to work in it and it is easy to weed. If it is going to freeze, he pulls it into the garage. If it gets too hot for what he is growing he drives it around to the shady side of the house. He can put sticks in the corners to support shade cloth or attach a trellis. The perfect raised bed! Beverlyf Fizzell From lbzeman@aol.com Sun Aug 26 19:19:59 2001 From: lbzeman@aol.com (lbzeman@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 12:19:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108261919.f7QJJw527607@Ag.arizona.edu> How do we keep bermuda grass from invading our bricked flower beds? From HS18042@aol.com Sun Aug 26 20:28:40 2001 From: HS18042@aol.com (HS18042@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 13:28:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108262028.f7QKSe503062@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to plant bamboo on the north and south and west side of my patio with ferns in between the patio and the bamboo , can this be done and is there any special things that I must do to get this result? What type of bamboo I use? From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Sun Aug 26 22:41:36 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 15:41:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108261919.f7QJJw527607@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010826224136.52872.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com> On the flower side of your edging you must put down a barrier that gos at least 18" straight down into the ground. I have found alluminum roof flashing works best. This will stop most of the underground runners from coming up in your beds, Cactus Jack --- lbzeman@aol.com wrote: > How do we keep bermuda grass from invading our > bricked flower beds? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 00:24:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 20:24:39 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda in a flower bed Message-ID: --part1_ad.f71b058.28baed47_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit An over the top spray with a chemical called flazifop will kill the bermuda, it is available as "Grass be Gone" and can be sprayed over the top of most shrubs and flowers. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_ad.f71b058.28baed47_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit An over the top spray with a chemical called flazifop will kill the bermuda,
it is available as  "Grass be Gone" and can be sprayed over the top of most
shrubs and flowers.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener


--part1_ad.f71b058.28baed47_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 00:25:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 20:25:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Solanum leaves yellowing Message-ID: <10.118fd0a4.28baed68@aol.com> --part1_10.118fd0a4.28baed68_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. Since you didn't indicate how much water you apply I can only guess the problem, but I suspect that you are watering too often and not long enough. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_10.118fd0a4.28baed68_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. Since you
didn't indicate how much water you apply I can only guess the problem, but I
suspect that you are watering too often  and not long enough. Check out this
website on irrigation:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_10.118fd0a4.28baed68_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 00:25:05 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2001 20:25:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Tree dying Message-ID: <142.90eeb3.28baed61@aol.com> --part1_142.90eeb3.28baed61_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Inadequate irrigation will cause your lemon tree to show signs of dying. Check out this website for info on irrigating citrus: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_142.90eeb3.28baed61_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Inadequate irrigation will cause your lemon tree to show signs of dying.
Check out this website for info on irrigating citrus:  
www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_142.90eeb3.28baed61_boundary-- From Silvirado@aol.com Mon Aug 27 21:22:12 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 17:22:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Dethatching before overseeding Message-ID: After looking through some pamphlets and the Master Gardner's manual, I am still confused on when to dethatch before overseeding cool season grasses. Western Sod says to dethatch bermuda in October in two directions, then rake, and then cut the remaining stubble to 1/2 an inch before overseeding with rye. In the MG manual pg. 35-39, it says to remove thatch when 45 days of favorable growing conditions are anticipated. Will this be the case in October in Phoenix? Later the MG manual says' Heavy dethatching of bermuda should not be part of the fall overseeding. If done too late in the summer or early fall when temperatures are warm dethatching may indirectly injure the turf.' Western Sod's description sounds like heavy dethatching to me--- how does one define light dethatching? If thatch exceeds 1/2 an inch, how much or what technique should be used to safely remove it before overseeding with winter rye so as not to injure the bermuda? TIA Suzanne Silvir From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 21:46:26 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 17:46:26 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Tree dying Message-ID: <110.487535b.28bc19b2@aol.com> --part1_110.487535b.28bc19b2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Another possibility for your lemon tree would be Sooty Canker, a fungi that will cause the bark to crack revealing a black sooty substance under the bark. The bark will also turn black around an infected area. If this be the case the suspect limb should be cut off at least 6 inches below the infected area and the pruning tools sterilized with a 10% bleach solution. In addition I usually treat the cut with a fungicide such as Bordeau. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_110.487535b.28bc19b2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Another possibility for your lemon tree would be Sooty Canker, a fungi that
will cause the bark to crack revealing a black sooty substance under the
bark. The bark will also turn black around an infected area. If this be the
case the suspect limb should be cut off at least 6 inches below the infected
area and the pruning tools sterilized with a 10% bleach solution. In addition
I usually treat the cut with a fungicide such as Bordeau.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_110.487535b.28bc19b2_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 27 22:50:17 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 15:50:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: sick tree Message-ID: <003601c12f4b$366313c0$2d50530c@j0r9501> Please reply to "Marty J. Heathershaw" > I am queen palm owner in the Palm Springs area. One of my palms has been > sick for a couple months now. It shows characteristics of the N and K > deficiencies. I plan to definitely get this fertilizer going. Is now a > good time to apply, as we are right in the middle of our hottest time of > year? The tree is 10' tall with a base cir. of 4". I estimate it to be > approx. 10 years old. > > Sincerely; > Marty J. Heathershaw From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 23:10:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 19:10:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Dethatching before overseeding Message-ID: --part1_a.11bbe446.28bc2d72_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Suzanne, The Master Gardener Manual recommends dethatching turf during mid summer and at least 45 days pryer to overseeding with rye, that time usually occurs about mid October at which time the bermuda stops growing. Nearly all contractors do not follow that advice and dethatch just before overseeding and the reason I suspect is that it costs more to dethatch at a separate time. I also have been guilty of dethatching at the same time that I overseed in spite of the fact that I know better. My bermuda has survived and has looked very well, it probably would have looked better if I had followed the Uof A recommendations. This is not a recommendatioin to do as I do. To answer your last question, there is no way to dethatch without injury to the bermuda. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a.11bbe446.28bc2d72_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Suzanne,
The Master Gardener Manual recommends dethatching turf during mid summer and
at least 45 days pryer to overseeding with rye, that time usually occurs  
about mid October at which time the bermuda stops growing. Nearly all
contractors do not follow that advice and dethatch just before overseeding
and the reason I suspect is that it costs more to dethatch at a separate
time. I also have been guilty of dethatching at the same time that I overseed
in spite of the fact that I know better. My bermuda has survived and has
looked very well, it probably would have looked better if I had followed the
Uof A recommendations.  This is not a recommendatioin to do as I do.
To answer your last question, there is no way to dethatch without injury to
the bermuda.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_a.11bbe446.28bc2d72_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 27 23:10:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 19:10:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Australian Willow died Message-ID: --part1_c0.19b6ab95.28bc2d76_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott, I'm mystified also about your tree. You were probably short on water but I think that the water was adequate to keep the tree alive. I would have been watering with three 5 to 10 gallon drippers for six hours every week to 10 days during the summer. Yes, the drippers should have been farther away from the trunk. Why not bring all the info that you have about the tree to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for the Diagnostic Clinic to assess, the clinic meets on Friday at 7:30 AM, you do not have to be there, someone will phone you with their diagnosis. I sat in on the clinic for several years but have not been able to lately. Good luck. Rod --part1_c0.19b6ab95.28bc2d76_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Scott,
I'm mystified also about your tree. You were probably short on water but I
think that the water was adequate to keep the tree alive. I would have been
watering with three 5 to 10 gallon drippers for six hours every week to 10
days during the summer. Yes, the drippers should have been farther away from
the trunk.
Why not bring all the info that you have about the tree to Maricopa County
Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for the Diagnostic
Clinic to assess, the clinic meets on Friday at 7:30 AM, you do not have to
be there, someone will phone you with their diagnosis. I sat in on the clinic
for several years but have not been able to lately.

Good luck.

Rod --part1_c0.19b6ab95.28bc2d76_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 28 03:35:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 23:35:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Queen Palms Message-ID: --part1_de.19af24bc.28bc6b8e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marty, Queen palms should be fertilized a minimum of four times a year and preferably monthly during the growing season with a special palm tree fertilizer. If you fertilize now there will be still time to fertilize again in late October. Check out this website for a bulletin on palm tree care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_de.19af24bc.28bc6b8e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Marty,
Queen palms should be fertilized a minimum of four times a year and
preferably monthly during the growing season with a special palm tree
fertilizer. If you fertilize now there will be still time to fertilize again
in late October. Check out this website for a bulletin on palm tree care at:  
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_de.19af24bc.28bc6b8e_boundary-- From jlldyoung1@home.com Tue Aug 28 13:52:30 2001 From: jlldyoung1@home.com (jlldyoung1@home.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 06:52:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108281352.f7SDqUQ04484@Ag.arizona.edu> Our lemon tree this year is having a problem: Some of thelemons are staying small and turning yellow and falling off the tree. Others are developing scars that look somewhat like Minnesota on a map and then turn black. Also, the shoots or suckers that develop on the tree have prickly leaves rather than the regular limb type shoots. I've been watering every two weeks the same as the Orange trees which are healthy and doing very well. I don't believe we can save this years crop but I don't want to lose the tree. Any suggestions? Thank you. Larry Young From drjazz@extremezone.com Tue Aug 28 15:26:28 2001 From: drjazz@extremezone.com (drjazz@extremezone.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 08:26:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108281526.f7SFQSQ16613@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a question regarding how to get a red rubber tree plant to "branch out" so to speak instead of doing what it is doing now - just growing straight up with no branching. Any advice would be appreciated. From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 19:05:47 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 12:05:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Dethatching before overseeding In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010828190547.33084.qmail@web14902.mail.yahoo.com> Never,NO,never dethatch in the fall when your summer lawn is going to sleep. Scalp the lawn ( cut it short) in the fall then reseed. You dethatch in late spring when your bermuda is aggressivly grwing and it will come back stronger.Suzanne, didn't I teach you anything in class? Cactus Jack --- Silvirado@aol.com wrote: > > After looking through some pamphlets and the Master > Gardner's manual, I am > still confused on when to dethatch before > overseeding cool season grasses. > Western Sod says to dethatch bermuda in October in > two directions, then rake, > and then cut the remaining stubble to 1/2 an inch > before overseeding with rye. > > In the MG manual pg. 35-39, it says to remove thatch > when 45 days of > favorable growing conditions are anticipated. Will > this be the case in > October in Phoenix? > Later the MG manual says' Heavy dethatching of > bermuda should not be part of > the fall overseeding. If done too late in the summer > or early fall when > temperatures are warm dethatching may indirectly > injure the turf.' > > Western Sod's description sounds like heavy > dethatching to me--- how does one > define light dethatching? > > If thatch exceeds 1/2 an inch, how much or what > technique should be used to > safely remove it before overseeding with winter rye > so as not to injure the > bermuda? > > TIA > Suzanne Silvir > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:01:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:01:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture References: <200108120307.f7C37tr14401@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C069D.EEF0C1CF@qwest.net> A few of us discussed your problem while together in a class last night. We're wondering where you live, because in the low desert of Phoenix, none of us thought that dichondra would have a chance of surviving in a pasture environment. Even with irrigation, the sun and heat would be too much. If used locally in a landscape, it is employed in small situations in lieu of turf which won't generally grow in shade. Actually, I remember from my original MG training that dichondra usually grew where it wanted to be, never where the gardener wanted it! If it is thriving in your conditions, my next question for you is why it would be a problem? My husband, who had ranchers in his family, thought it wouldn't be a bad forage material, but also wondered how it could choke out the existing grasses. He wasn't sure about its nutritional value, but wouldn't have been as worried about it as say, johnson grass or jimsonweed. But he wanted me to add that it's been some time since he worked a ranch. There are probably some selective herbicides to apply, but you would continually be fighting it if, as you say, your irrigation water was bringing it into the field. Could you share a little more about where you are, what your needs are from the pasture, and how big a threat the dichondra is? Linda Guy, MG wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing off our pasture? Any ideas? > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:12:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:12:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bird Holes in Saguaro References: <200108172011.f7HKBr100441@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C095A.4A4C673A@qwest.net> This is a fairly common phenomenon, and the saguaro doesn't usually succumb because of the strength of its internal skeletal structure. Many would welcome the wildlife, but it's not everyone's cup of tea. Unfortunately, you'd need a permit from AZ Game and Fish to do anything about the woodpeckers who create the holes originally. Other birds will subsequently take up residence in seasons following. Refer to the UA Urban Integrated Pest Management discussion at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/woodpeckers.html for some ideas for deterrents. Linda Guy, MG byztrad@aol.com wrote: > This past spring the birds built a condo in > my giant Sahuaro; besides looking terrible > now, it has so many open, dry holes that it > looks as if it's going to break and fall over. How can I save my beautiful,old cactus? > mgu > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:14:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:14:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] No blooms References: <412001832222154240@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3B8C09AE.13B0EB1D@qwest.net> --------------E3EC6308CE8DD9513A8DF7AD Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you haven't already received a reply, we would need more information on the type of plant, its exposure, age, your cultural practices. Please reply to the arid_gardener server. Linda Guy, MG Dennis Haag wrote: > my vines are very healthy but not blooming...I also planted white > hyacinth beans by mistake and looking forward to seeing their bloom. > Can you tell me what the problem is? Thank you --- Dennis Haag--- > dhaag1474@earthlink.net--- EarthLink: It's your Internet. --------------E3EC6308CE8DD9513A8DF7AD Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you haven't already received a reply, we would need more information on the type of plant, its exposure, age, your cultural practices. Please reply to the arid_gardener server.

Linda Guy, MG

Dennis Haag wrote:

 my vines are very healthy but not blooming...I also planted white hyacinth beans by mistake and looking forward to seeing their bloom. Can you tell me what the problem is? Thank you --- Dennis Haag--- dhaag1474@earthlink.net--- EarthLink: It's your Internet. 
--------------E3EC6308CE8DD9513A8DF7AD-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:21:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:21:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Night-blooming Succulent ID References: <200108252334.f7PNYg500747@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C0B66.7AF8C0E0@qwest.net> The best thing to do is to visit the Desert Botanical Garden to compare those in its collection to that in your garden. There are several night bloomers there, both native and nonnative. Care will be dependent upon proper plant id. Some may need more water and shade or finer soils than others. Linda Guy, MG ric_tami88@hotmail.com wrote: > I have a cactus; I believe it is a cereus. It is about 12 feet tall, has multiple branches, and large white flowers that open at night. Where can I find exactly what kind I have and care information? Especially I want to know if I can trim/prune it somehow because it is getting too big. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:32:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:32:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shefflera - Need Pinching Back References: Message-ID: <3B8C0DD2.CB92097C@qwest.net> --------------C8747E53EDD51537E99A951C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula, Houseplants are not my best area, but I'd always assumed that legginess was a result of inappropriate/inadequate light, and the plant 'reaching' to receive more. An ancient houseplant book of mine suggested they'd do well even in low, artificial light conditions. Another, not quite as old reference claims these are now Brassaia, and that they are good for any light level, including well-lighted, but nonsunny [which I read as indirect lighting] areas. Our own houseplant publication http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants lists them as requiring medium light. They are described as trees [eventually] so any legginess may be do to the type of plant is is to become?!?! Isn't gardening great? Linda Guy, MG Ursula Miller wrote: > Hi - I know that you folks are primarily outdoor specialists, but > maybe someone can tell me if shefflera needs pinching back to maintain > the bushy appearance. I have a beautiful, full plant and want to keep > it that way. I know that some houseplants need pinching to preventy > 'legginess' so I'm wondering if this is something I should be doing or > maybe this is some kind of wonder plant that just looks great with no > work at all. :-} Ursula Miller --------------C8747E53EDD51537E99A951C Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,

Houseplants are not my best area, but I'd always assumed that legginess was a result of inappropriate/inadequate light, and the plant 'reaching' to receive more.
An ancient houseplant book of mine suggested they'd do well even in low, artificial light conditions. Another, not quite as old reference claims these are now Brassaia, and that they are good for any light level, including well-lighted, but nonsunny [which I read as indirect lighting] areas.  Our own houseplant publication http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants
lists them as requiring medium light.

They are described as trees [eventually] so any legginess may be do to the type of plant is is to become?!?!  Isn't gardening great?

Linda Guy, MG

Ursula Miller wrote:

 Hi - I know that you folks are primarily outdoor specialists, but maybe someone can tell me if shefflera needs pinching back to maintain the bushy appearance.  I have a beautiful, full plant and want to keep it that way.  I know that some houseplants need pinching to preventy 'legginess' so I'm wondering if this is something I should be doing or maybe this is some kind of wonder plant that just looks great with no work at all.  :-} Ursula Miller 
--------------C8747E53EDD51537E99A951C-- From llmartodam@myexcel.com Tue Aug 28 21:33:19 2001 From: llmartodam@myexcel.com (llmartodam@myexcel.com) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:33:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108282133.f7SLXJQ14524@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a raised, irrigated strawberry bed planted by the previous owner of our home. He used to get wonderful yeilds. We got lots of berries this last spring but they were quite small. And now the bed looks terrible because we don't know what to do with them. My husband made sun shades for them when they began to get burned by the sun in the hot weather. But I need to know what to do with them. When should I plant new plants? What is the normal harvest time for strawberries in AZ? What and when to fertilize? When to stop picking so they go dormant? What to do with them in the hot weather so they will be healthy when it is time for them to start growing agian? What about the runners? I need general info about strawberries and specific info on how to grow them in AZ. We live in the Estrella Mountains in Goodyear,AZ. I have searched every sight I can find on the internet to get info about growing strawberries in AZ and can't find a thing. Thank you, thank you thank you!!! Linda From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:40:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:40:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brown Scale or Fungus on Palo Verde References: <200108221607.f7MG7N504107@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C0FEA.60504968@qwest.net> There is a good description of different scales in the UA's Integrated Pest Management website, which may help you to ascertain what your tree has. But the best advice I could give is to bring some samples to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office [4341 E. Broadway], for the weekly diagnostic committee session. Linda Guy, MG carefree2297@aol.com wrote: > my three year old mexican palo verde has brown scale or fungus looking stuff--also some hole in the limbs-what can the matter be? thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 21:57:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 14:57:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Iris, Cosmos, Texas Ranger References: <200108222359.f7MNxw517458@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C13CE.E4131C8B@qwest.net> There is a place called Shepard Iris Garden [602/841-1231] where you could probably get expert advice on your iris questions. Cosmos are annuals that are generally planted Mar/Apr/May for midsummer bloom. They will need supplemental summer water. See our flowers pub at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers It's quite possible that you are watering your Texas sage too much. Once established, it requires limited supplemental irrigation, enough just to look good, in the summer. On the other hand, it has got to be the most misplaced plant I've seen in many commercial landscapes. These are huge plants that are invariably sheared to 2.5' snowballs. Properly placed, there is limited need to prune except to renew woody segments. I mention this because if yours is being pruned abundantly, you are taking off the flowering stalks, too. Good luck! Linda Guy, MG suzanne.bachman@mail.bcop.com wrote: > How do Japenese Iris's do here in Phoenix? I'd be planting them on the east side of my house. Also, what about Bearded Iris? > > What's the secret to growing Cosmos? I love them, but haven't had much luck with them. > > My Texas Sage doesn't bloom nearly as much as others that I have seen. Could I be watering it too much? > > Thank-you, > > Suzanne > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 28 22:10:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:10:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dichondra in Pasture References: <200108120307.f7C37tr14401@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8C16CA.974FAFF1@qwest.net> An astute UA specialist just sent me a note.....is it possible that what you are experiencing is prostrate spurge? Green leaves on pink stems. It oozes a milky sap. Tiny pinkish-white flowers. Sometimes there's a purple spot on center of each leaf. We have a publication on its control which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds Linda Guy, MG wgk-kars@worldnet.att.net wrote: > We are having a serious dichondra problem we believe carried through the irrigation canals onto our land. Most of our neighbors are beginning to experience this too. What can be done to eliminate this as it is killing off our pasture? Any ideas? > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 28 22:58:42 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 15:58:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Strawberries in Goodyear References: <200108282133.f7SLXJQ14524@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000401c13015$05352520$7a51530c@j0r9501> Plant transplants in November or early December. Harvest in late spring, usually through April and May depending on the variety. Fertilize lightly with a nitrogen fertilizer when new growth starts in the winter and also through spring as long as there continues to be new growth - Ammonium nitrate in winter or Ammonium sulfate in warmer weather. Stop picking when there are no more to pick. Apply shade in summer, at least 70 per cent. Cover runners with soil so they will root and fill in the bed with new plants or allow them to root, then transplant in a new bed. In my experience, adaptation is just fair. I used to have best results by planting a new bed each year but it has been several decades since I have grown them and there may now be better adapted varieties. The biggest problems I had were invasive Bermudagrass, soil becoming too alkaline or saline from the mineralized irrigation water and water evaporation, and stunting and yellowing which may have been due to nematodes. It is possible to grow a satisfactory crop but they are not one of the easiest things to grow. ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a raised, irrigated strawberry bed planted by the previous owner of our home. He used to get wonderful yeilds. We got lots of berries this last spring but they were quite small. And now the bed looks terrible because we don't know what to do with them. My husband made sun shades for them when they began to get burned by the sun in the hot weather. But I need to know what to do with them. When should I plant new plants? What is the normal harvest time for strawberries in AZ? What and when to fertilize? When to stop picking so they go dormant? What to do with them in the hot weather so they will be healthy when it is time for them to start growing agian? What about the runners? I need general info about strawberries and specific info on how to grow them in AZ. We live in the Estrella Mountains in Goodyear,AZ. I have searched every sight I can find on the internet to get info about growing strawberries in AZ and can't find a thing. Thank you, thank you thank y! > ou!!! Linda From bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Aug 28 23:44:45 2001 From: bradleyl@Ag.arizona.edu (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 16:44:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arizona Highlands Garden Conference Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010828164407.01cec7f0@ag.arizona.edu> >* Mark your calendars for the Arizona Highlands Garden Conference, planned >and presented by the UA Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners from >Coconino, Gila, and Yavapai counties. The conference offers indoor and >outdoor presentations on a variety of topics related to high elevation >gardening and landscaping. The conference will be held October 8-9, 2001 at >the Chapel Rock Conference Center in Prescott. Contact Jeff Schalau >520/445-6590, jschalau@ag.arizona.edu or visit the conference web site at: >http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/ahgc/conference2001.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 29 01:02:08 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 18:02:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vole or Mouse? Problem? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12FEB.8D8F8DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Now that I have my rabbit problem under control, I get a new visitor - a mouse. I'm not sure if it's a mouse or a vole. It's fairly large - about 7 inches long, gray with a fairly long tail. So far it seems to be eating the dropped mesquite pods and other dried sprigs of plants. I have never seen a mouse/vole in this neighborhood, but with so much construction in former citrus fields nearby, it probably lost its former home. Should I do something, like try and catch it and release it in a field somewhere or should I just leave it alone? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12FEB.8D8F8DE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Now that I have my = rabbit=20 problem under control, I get a new visitor - a mouse.  I'm not sure = if it's=20 a mouse or a vole.  It's fairly large - about 7 inches long, gray = with a=20 fairly long tail.  So far it seems to be eating the dropped = mesquite pods=20 and other dried sprigs of plants.  I have never seen a mouse/vole = in this=20 neighborhood, but with so much construction in former citrus fields = nearby, it=20 probably lost its former home.
 
Should I do = something, like try=20 and catch it and release it in a field somewhere or should I just leave = it=20 alone?
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C12FEB.8D8F8DE0-- From JeanSciFi@aol.com Wed Aug 29 15:55:03 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:55:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Sago Palm Message-ID: --part1_b7.12f3ddc5.28be6a57_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_b7.12f3ddc5.28be6a57_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-zd02.mx.aol.com (rly-zd02.mail.aol.com [172.31.33.226]) by air-zd03.mail.aol.com (v80.17) with ESMTP id MAILINZD33-0829085846; Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:58:46 -0400 Received: from gw.ajli.org (gw.ajli.org [207.198.227.98]) by rly-zd02.mx.aol.com (v80.17) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINZD21-0829085825; Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:58:25 -0400 Received: from 00283 ([172.16.10.25]) by gw.ajli.org (8.9.1a/8.9.1) with SMTP id IAA09680 for ; Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:58:15 -0400 (EDT) Reply-To: From: "Pamela Weekes" To: Subject: Sago Palm Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:55:46 -0400 Message-ID: <000901c13089$ebdf0940$190a10ac@ajli.org> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13068.64CD6940" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 Importance: Normal ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13068.64CD6940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hello Jean, I purchased two sago palm for my office reception area. They have recently grown these long talons. At first it was quite interesting but now I believe that the plant is growing incorrectly. I have since moved the plants to a window area. What should I do about these talons? Should I cut them off? What else can I do to ensure the palms are properly cared for? Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Pamela ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13068.64CD6940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello=20 Jean,
<= /FONT> 
I purchase= d two sago=20 palm for my office reception area.  They have recently grown these long= =20 talons. At first it was quite interesting but now I believe that the plant i= s=20 growing incorrectly.  I have since moved the plants to a window area.&n= bsp;=20 What should I do about these talons?  Should I cut them off? What else=20= can=20 I do to ensure the palms are properly cared for?
<= /FONT> 
Any help y= ou can=20 give will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.
<= /FONT> 
Pamela
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C13068.64CD6940-- --part1_b7.12f3ddc5.28be6a57_boundary-- From ddavenport@clsaz.org Wed Aug 29 16:54:09 2001 From: ddavenport@clsaz.org (ddavenport@clsaz.org) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:54:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108291654.f7TGs8Q23251@Ag.arizona.edu> I am trying to find a recipe for prickly pear jam or jelly to try. I and my neighbors have a bumper crop this year. Does any know of any, or a source? Thank you! From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 29 18:16:09 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:16:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus Jelly References: <200108291654.f7TGs8Q23251@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <00c501c130b6$df5427a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Here is a link for a cactus jelly recipe. http://www.azcentral.com/home/food/0816jelly.html Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2001 9:54 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am trying to find a recipe for prickly pear jam or jelly > to try. I and my neighbors have a bumper crop this year. > Does any know of any, or a source? > > Thank you! From criticalcarenurse@hotmail.com Wed Aug 29 22:24:17 2001 From: criticalcarenurse@hotmail.com (criticalcarenurse@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 15:24:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108292224.f7TMOHQ25535@Ag.arizona.edu> I have orange trees (Arizona Sweets)and grapefruit trees that are about 23 years old. Should they both receive the same amount of citrus food? If I am feeding them 3 times a year, how much food should they be getting for each feeding? From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 29 23:55:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 16:55:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Sago Palm References: Message-ID: <3B8D8106.DA92EA5C@qwest.net> --------------66F108BA942F5F56F495C518 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don't do anything! These are new fronds; just give them some time. Once a year sagos put them forth; some other cycads do so twice annually. Linda Guy, MG JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Sago Palm > Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:55:46 -0400 > From: "Pamela Weekes" > To: Hello Jean,I purchased two sago palm for my > office reception area. They have recently grown these long talons. At > first it was quite interesting but now I believe that the plant is > growing incorrectly. I have since moved the plants to a window area. > What should I do about these talons? Should I cut them off? What else > can I do to ensure the palms are properly cared for?Any help you can > give will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.Pamela --------------66F108BA942F5F56F495C518 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Don't do anything! These are new fronds; just give them some time. Once a year sagos put them forth; some other cycads do so twice annually.

Linda Guy, MG

JeanSciFi@aol.com wrote: 

 

Subject: Sago Palm
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:55:46 -0400
From: "Pamela Weekes" <pweekes@ajli.org>
To: <JeanSciFi@aol.com>Hello Jean,I purchased two sago palm for my office reception area.  They have recently grown these long talons. At first it was quite interesting but now I believe that the plant is growing incorrectly.  I have since moved the plants to a window area.  What should I do about these talons?  Should I cut them off? What else can I do to ensure the palms are properly cared for?Any help you can give will be greatly appreciated.  Thank you.Pamela

--------------66F108BA942F5F56F495C518-- From leoneamerica@azwest.net Thu Aug 30 00:15:18 2001 From: leoneamerica@azwest.net (leoneamerica@azwest.net) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:15:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108300015.f7U0FIQ12402@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in starting a seed mail order business. Where do I find the information on the laws in selling seeds in the state of arizona? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 30 00:17:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 20:17:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Trees, Fertilizing Message-ID: <109.4c87168.28bee024@aol.com> --part1_109.4c87168.28bee024_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit University of Arizona recommends that mature citrus trees receive two pounds of actual nitrogen per year starting in February when 1/2 should be applied, the remainder split between applications in in May and August. Do not apply later than August. The exception to this rule is for grapefruit which should receive 1/2 of the above amount. If you are using a fertilizer such as amonium sulfate, 21-0-0, which has 21% nitrogen then your total annual amount of fertilizer applied would be 10 pounds for citrus other than grapefruuit which should receive 5 pounds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_109.4c87168.28bee024_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit University  of Arizona recommends that mature citrus trees receive two pounds
of actual nitrogen per year starting in February when 1/2 should be applied,
the remainder split between applications in in May and August. Do not apply
later than August. The exception to this rule is for grapefruit which should
receive 1/2 of the above amount. If you are using a fertilizer such as
amonium sulfate, 21-0-0, which has 21% nitrogen then your total annual amount
of fertilizer applied would be 10 pounds for citrus other than grapefruuit
which should receive 5 pounds.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_109.4c87168.28bee024_boundary-- From rells42@aol.com Thu Aug 30 00:26:21 2001 From: rells42@aol.com (rells42@aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:26:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108300026.f7U0QLQ14187@Ag.arizona.edu> How do you correctly propagate a sago palm from the new shoots at the bottom of the tree and when is the best time to do the propagation? Plus the same questions for a Diffenbachia (sp?) From cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com Thu Aug 30 02:16:05 2001 From: cactusjackofaz@yahoo.com (jack blake) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:16:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200108291654.f7TGs8Q23251@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20010830021605.54871.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> I have a couple of them but will need a day or two to look them up. Cactus Jack --- ddavenport@clsaz.org wrote: > I am trying to find a recipe for prickly pear jam or > jelly > to try. I and my neighbors have a bumper crop this > year. > Does any know of any, or a source? > > Thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email alerts & NEW webcam video instant messaging with Yahoo! Messenger http://im.yahoo.com From gizmoaz@home.com Thu Aug 30 02:36:58 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 19:36:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] OT: My Good Old Tractor Lawn Mower -- By Bob Blakely References: <20010830021605.54871.qmail@web14904.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B8DA6CA.D7A626FA@home.com> Hi folks, This is slightly off topic for this list, but I thought all gardeners might enjoy the story as much as I. A little over a year ago, a friend of mine, Bob Blakely sent a wonderful email out about his good ole trust worthy lawn mower, and mowing the lawn on his farm, which originally belonged to his parents. It is good reading, and with his permission, I have posted it on my website for all to read. If you get time, hop on over to http://www.gizmoaz.com and then click on; "My Good Old Tractor Lawn Mower -- By Bob Blakely". I hope you enjoy it as much as I did when I first read it. Thanks, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 New website is up, change your bookmarks now! http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 176 Rose Bushes Planted! Over 100 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ I never know what to call that area between the sidewalk and the street. My father called it the Devil's Strip and when I asked, he said it was because the Government (devil) owned it and we have to keep it up. -- John Mertus ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From drgarnett@msn.com Thu Aug 30 05:30:55 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:30:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Schefflera, pinching back Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C130DA.44DFB580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Ursula - not sure if you have the same species, but the dwarf schefflera (Schefflera arboricola) is a common houseplant. We have had one in a 12 inch pot for several years without getting overgrown. Still looks nice. My old Jerry Crockett (of Crockett's Victory Garden fame) houseplant guide says that schefflera can be kept small without suffering by keeping it cooler, drier, and slightly pot-bound. From our experience this seems to be true - ours has grown quite slowly. Schefflera is also listed in Sunset Western Garden, which states that the tips can be cut back to discourage legginess, or can be cut way back if overgrown. Don Garnett ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C130DA.44DFB580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ursula - not s= ure if you have the same species, but the dwarf schefflera
(S= chefflera arboricola) is a common houseplant. We have had one in a
=
12 inch pot for several years without getting overgrown. Still look= s nice.
 
My old Jerry Crockett (of Crockett's= Victory Garden fame) houseplant
guide says that schefflera ca= n be kept small without suffering by
keeping it cooler, drier,= and slightly pot-bound. From our experience
this seems to be = true - ours has grown quite slowly. Schefflera is also
listed = in Sunset Western Garden, which states that the tips can be
cu= t back to discourage legginess, or can be cut way back if overgrown.
 
    Don Garnett
 =
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C130DA.44DFB580-- From teambo@msn.com Thu Aug 30 05:20:53 2001 From: teambo@msn.com (teambo@msn.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 22:20:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108300520.f7U5KrQ16033@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello - I am a parent volunteer for my 2nd graders classroom garden. Is there an organzation in Maricopa County that would donate between 10 and 15 yards of top soil? Thanks for your help - Tami From Jessica Boof Wilson" This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1312F.43235EE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am buying a new house in Tucson, and I have a medium yard in the front = that has some palm, and a pine tree. I have always wanted to have a = yard with purple flowers year round. I was wondering if there are any = plants, that you all can recommend, the I can put in my new yard, so = that I would have purple flowers year round. Part of the question also = involves a sturdy ground cover that produces purple flowers. Thank you in advance, Jessica Sizemore (new to the list) ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1312F.43235EE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am buying a new house in Tucson, and = I have=20 a medium yard in the front that has some palm, and a pine = tree.  I=20 have always wanted to have a yard with purple flowers year round.  = I was=20 wondering if there are any plants, that you all can recommend, the I can = put in=20 my new yard, so that I would have purple flowers year round.  Part = of the=20 question also involves a sturdy ground cover that produces purple=20 flowers.
Thank you in advance,
Jessica Sizemore
(new to the = list)
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01C1312F.43235EE0-- _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From jill@nidal.com Thu Aug 30 17:37:18 2001 From: jill@nidal.com (jill@nidal.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 10:37:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108301737.f7UHbBQ04319@Ag.arizona.edu> Can anyone recommend a winter cover crop (green manure) for my backyard? I live in Mesa, and I'd like to plant something to break down the soil and keep the weeds down, that I can till under in the Spring. My soil is terrible heavy clay. thanks, Jill N From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Thu Aug 30 18:01:51 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:01:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Purple Flowers Message-ID: <6a.12d672fd.28bfd98f@aol.com> Jessica, I recently went through the new Sunset Western Garden Book and wrote down the names of all flowers & shrubs that grew in Zone 13 that had either blue or purple flowers. I once saw a photo of a mass planting of blue and purple flowers that I fell in love with, but it didn't give the names of the flowers. This will at least give you a list of flowers to start with. Also, Tucson is Zone 12 and Phoenix is Zone 13. Go to the nurseries and see the flowers in bloom before you decide to buy them - also figure out what kind of exposure the flowers need and if you can furnish that exposure. There is a big difference between an eastern exposure and a western one. Here goes: Shrubs: Alyogyne huegelii Brunfelsia pauciflora Dalea (bicolor, frutescens, greggii & pulchra) Leucophyllum Ruellia californica Blue & Purple Perennials & Annuals: Ageratum, Allium (bulbs, varities alropurpureum, caeruleum, carinatum, christophii, giganteum, globemaster, karataviense, sphaerocyshalum), aster (amellus, x frikartii, novae-angiiae, novi-belgii, tongolensis), babiana (bulb), baptisia australis, brachyscome, browallia, callistephus chinensis, centaurea cyanus, consolida ajacis, digitalis purpurea, echinops, erigeron, eryngium (alpinum, amethystinum, giganteum, planum), eustomagrandiflorum, felecia bergeriana, heliotropuem, hyacinths (bulbs), lavender, limoneum (perezii & sinuatum), linum, lobelia, lupine (hartwegii, microcarpus densiflorus, nanus, succulentus, matthiola (stock), muscari (bulbs), myosotis, penstemon (heterophyllus, pseudospectabilis, & strictus), perovskia ("Blue Spire" has deep violet blooms), phlomis, ruellia brittoniana, salvia (clevelandii, coahuilensis, farinacea, leucantha "Midnight", muelleri, sclarea), Stokesia laevis ("wyoming" is a deep purple), verbena (bonariensis, :Homestead (purple), x. hybrida, lilacina) Others: Ajuga, amsonia, Gilia tricolor, gomphrena, nierembergia, torenia fournieri, xeranthemum annum. Hope this helps you. Val From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Aug 30 18:43:15 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 11:43:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108301843.f7UIhFQ17746@Ag.arizona.edu> Is the yellowing and dropping of leaves on Hibiscus normal at this time of year? Is it possible that I have an insect or a feeding problem? From alicepaige@bigfoot.com Thu Aug 30 21:09:35 2001 From: alicepaige@bigfoot.com (alicepaige@bigfoot.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:09:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108302109.f7UL9ZQ23632@Ag.arizona.edu> I buried some compost containing cantulope seed and have three fruit on the vines now. How do I know when they are ripe and ready to pick? From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 30 22:40:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 15:40:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Is the Cantaloupe Ripe? References: <200108302109.f7UL9ZQ23632@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B8EC0DB.33A1276D@qwest.net> By golly, I had the same thing happen to me, and I'm waiting to dig into it! I've always heard that if you pick the melon up gently and roll it around, it will fall off the vine [ie the stem has dried] when it's ready to be eaten. Linda Guy, MT alicepaige@bigfoot.com wrote: > I buried some compost containing cantulope seed and have three fruit on the vines now. How do I know when they are ripe and ready to pick? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ujgs@4dirs.com Fri Aug 31 00:51:07 2001 From: ujgs@4dirs.com (ujgs@4dirs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:51:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108310051.f7V0p6Q00864@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm searching for true chemical organic manure here in Az. It seems that all the organic milk products come from California. Call me if you wish 480-962-6353 Thanks Don From ujgs@4dirs.com Fri Aug 31 00:51:43 2001 From: ujgs@4dirs.com (ujgs@4dirs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 17:51:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108310051.f7V0phQ00968@Ag.arizona.edu> I'm searching for true chemical free organic manure here in Az. It seems that all the organic milk products come from California. Call me if you wish 480-962-6353 Thanks Don From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Aug 30 23:35:52 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 16:35:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: When are Cantaloupes Ripe? Message-ID: <001b01c131c4$817ba680$6751530c@j0r9501> >From alicepaige@bigfoot.com alicepaige@bigfoot.com, Thu, 30 Aug 2001 14:09:35 -0700 (MST) >I buried some compost containing cantulope seed and have three fruit on the vines now. How do I know when they are ripe and ready to pick? Muskmelons are ripe when the melon becomes soft at the blossom end and when the melon slips from the vine. True cantaloupes like casabas and honeydews must be cut from the vine - best way to tell with these types is when the skin changes color to white or cream-colored, and also by softness at the blossom end. Olin Miller From deeuubee@aol.com Fri Aug 31 04:13:07 2001 From: deeuubee@aol.com (deeuubee@aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2001 21:13:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108310413.f7V4D7Q21587@Ag.arizona.edu> We have various trees and plants including acacia, pine, lantana, bird of paradise, etc. in one gallon containers that have root growth into the ground. we are wanting to transplant these into 5 gallon containers and want information about transplanting without destroying the plant. We have tried to transplant a few and have dug up root system but the plants still die. Some of the roots have broken when removing from the ground/pot. Any information would be appreciated, also would you suggest transplanting when the weather is cooler? Thanks, David From ahlstroms2@home.com Fri Aug 31 08:46:40 2001 From: ahlstroms2@home.com (ahlstroms2@home.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:46:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108310846.f7V8kdQ21985@Ag.arizona.edu> Where can I go to find out about above ground gardening. some people use the term grow boxes. The soil in my yard is so full of river rock that the only way I can have a garden is to build some type of box above ground. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Aug 31 14:49:48 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 14:49:48 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raised Bed Gardening Message-ID: Raised Bed Gardening is very popular, especially if you have very rocky soil. Try http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/ click on the search button (bottom right) and enter "raised bed". THis will give you several articles to start. And http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/container.html has information about growing in containers. If you live in the Tucson area, stop by the Extension Office at 4210 N. Campbell to view a variety of raised bed gardens in the Demonstration Gardens. (phone 626-5161) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ahlstroms2@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 01:46:40 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I go to find out about above ground gardening. some people use >the term grow boxes. The soil in my yard is so full of river rock that the >only way I can have a garden is to build some type of box above ground. >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From Krulich@aol.com Fri Aug 31 19:11:08 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:11:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do I protect planter? Message-ID: <6f.19eeeef7.28c13b4c@aol.com> I just built a planter about 2ft x 2ft x 2ft out of some old wood. My question is what would be a good inexpensive way to protect the interior from rotting, that would not harm plants? Thanks! Tom From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 31 20:33:04 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 13:33:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How do I protect planter? References: <6f.19eeeef7.28c13b4c@aol.com> Message-ID: <000a01c1325c$24cd5120$d151530c@j0r9501> A heavy (8 mil) black plastic lining will last a long time. It's available from landscape supply stores - not sure if the Home Depots and Lowes' would carry it. It usually comes in 10' x 50' or 100' rolls but may be available in a smaller size it you ask. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I just built a planter about 2ft x 2ft x 2ft out of some old wood. My > question is what would be a good inexpensive way to protect the interior from > rotting, that would not harm plants? Thanks! > Tom From ssalvo@aol.com Fri Aug 31 22:11:06 2001 From: ssalvo@aol.com (ssalvo@aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 15:11:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108312211.f7VMB5Q27970@Ag.arizona.edu> This question is about grapefruit trees. I have 2 citrus trees - grapefruit and tangerine, both 12 years old. They are next to each other on the south side of the house in Phoenix. The tangerine is doing great. The grapefruit seems to have died suddenly. I fertilized both trees with citrus food (5 pounds each) on August 12th and thoroughly watered both as I do each time. They both get weekly watering (2 hours)into wells under the outer perimeter of the trees. On August 25th, I noticed the grapefruit tree "wilting". I gave it more water, but within 2 days, all the leaves had shriveled and dried up, the small grapefruits have gotten soft and the entire tree appears to be dead. All this happened within 3 days. There is no outside evidence of a pest problem. I am looking for any answers to this mystery. Shall I wait and see what happens? Can I treat it somehow? Should I take the tree out? Should I cut it back and wait for Spring? Thanks for being there as my resource and to lend expert assistance. From Krulich@aol.com Fri Aug 31 23:50:05 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2001 19:50:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] How should I water when applying fertilizer? Message-ID: <64.12b2dc5b.28c17cad@aol.com> I will be fertilizing my citrus trees soon and I have a question. They are on a drip system with the emitters only out at the drip line. Should I just sprinkle the fertilizer near the drip emitters, or should I spread it everywhere and use a sprinkler this time instead? Thanks! Tom From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 1 00:59:26 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 17:59:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] August flowers in planters In-Reply-To: <200107312218.f6VMIoW14810@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: If you don't mind planting annuals that won't make it through the winter, you could buy a whole bunch of purslane (portulacca). They have fleshy leaves, grow low, and come in some pretty colors - yellow, red, etc. (There are two kinds of portulacca, but I think that that purslane has the prettiest colors and flowers. The Sunset Western Garden book calls it "essentially a weed" - but who cares if it looks nice? Also, you can supposedly use it in salad, soup, pork stew, tomato sauce and scambled eggs. I have not tried any of these culinary delights, however. I think I'll stick with salt and pepper.) They can stand the heat which is VERY important for August. If you give them plenty of water, they'll produce nice flowers. Also, I don't remember seeing these plants back east, so they may add some local interest to your plants for your NY friends. Here is a site that shows some photos http://www.ameriprod.com/purslane.htm though I've never seen the multicolor types here in stores. I just planted some purslane in my above-ground pots on the patio because I ended up with some empty pots after the geraniums finally succumbed to the heat. You can buy these plants almost anywhere. I picked mine up at Target. Just FYI, I put the whole pot into the soil. Then when they die back when it gets cold, I just remove the pot with all the dead plants in it and replace the hole with another pot full of other flowering annuals. I did this last year and it worked like a charm. Maybe someone else can come up with more ideas for you but I think flower planting is kind of limited this time of year. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of corys@southwestjet.com Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2001 3:19 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Could you please tell me what kind of flowers can I plant in our built into the ground planter. Folks are coming at the end of August from NY and I would like to have pretty, colorful flowers in our planters. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks. PS Could you please use layman names of the flowers? Thanks! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From klrpignato@aol.com Wed Aug 1 02:08:57 2001 From: klrpignato@aol.com (klrpignato@aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:08:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108010208.f7128vW10220@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Every August, my geraniums, that I have babied through June and July, turn brown and wilt. I know they don't usually do well in the summer, but there is a house in the neighborhood that has a hedge of geraniums on a west facing wall for years. What am I doing wrong? They received water 10 min on bubblers every day. Thanks for your help. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Aug 1 02:36:31 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 22:36:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flowers for summer bloom Message-ID: <11c.274d887.2898c52f@aol.com> Zinnias, cosmos (yellow, orange, gold), tithonia (Mexican sunflower), and moss rose (portulaca grandiflora) are easy to grow plants that do well in the summers here. They are easy to grow from seed, but I kind of doubt they would be blooming by the end of Aug if you planted the seed now. Val From strainjc@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 15:18:33 2001 From: strainjc@earthlink.net (strainjc@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 08:18:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 16:11:42 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 09:11:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Rose Care References: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <010d01c11aa4$a819b3e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The summer months in the low desert are especially tough on roses, they just hunker down and try to survive the summer. Watering at least twice a week and if they still look stressed water again. It is important to water deeply as this will wash the salts below the root level as well as encouraging the roots to grow deeper. It will help to mulch the plants which will keep the roots cooler and conserve water. If the roses have good drainage, you can will not over water them. Roses like a lot of fertilizer, so while you reduce the amount of fertilizer by half during the summer, you should not quit fertilizing altogether. Use a slow release fertilizer and fertilize every six weeks.. After fertilizing, water deeply so the fertilizer will not burn the roots.. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 8:18 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Aug 1 16:14:42 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 09:14:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108011518.f71FIXW21521@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B682AF2.2E76863E@email.sps.mot.com> Hi, Their is always a chance of mislabeled roses, but it is not common. Almost all roses have smaller roses, fewer petals, this time of year, when it is so hot. This is not uncommon for this time of year. I do not fertilize my roses at all from June through September. But if you must, I would recommend using a time released fertilizer such as Oscmote, so that you do not burn the roots on your roses. Be aware that in new growth stimulated by the fertilizer could very likely be burnt to a crisp in the heat, and wouldn't get the chance to produce much bloom anyway. In regardes to your yellow leaves, and the bareness of the canes. I suspect Spidermites. Spray your roses with a good burst of water, especially under the leaves, once every two or three days through the summer. Spidermites to not like humid wet environments. They like it dry and hot. Don't fret, your roses will come back when it cools off and provide you with wonderful blooms all the way through till Christmas, later if you let them. However I generally prune in January, in preparation for another great year of roses :) Never, ever prune your roses this time of year. You want to keep all the foilage you have to shade the canes and keep them from getting sunburnt. Alan strainjc@earthlink.net wrote: > In Feb. I planted bare root hybrid tea roses. The roses are producing blooms in small groups and size like cheap bush roses. Only the first ones produced longer stems and individual blooms. Now the plants look half dead. How much water should I be giving them and is there a chance the packages were marked wrong and I did not get hybrid teas? I have never had this problem before, but I am new to Arizona. When can I fertilize again? I stopped in mid-June. They get almost full sun until late afternoon and many of the leaves are dried up or yellow. Help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sonoraleisure@qwest.net Wed Aug 1 20:45:32 2001 From: sonoraleisure@qwest.net (sonoraleisure@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108012045.f71KjWW17557@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We go out of town for 2/3 weeks at a time. Is there solution to keep the indoor potted plants alive and well for this long ?. The Ciciliatos in Gold Canyon, AZ. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 1 21:52:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 17:52:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Drip lines with filaments surrounding them Message-ID: <7b.1861c9a6.2899d438@aol.com> Michael, Thanks for sending the photos, I couldn't see detail well enough to be sure but I still think that what you are seeing are roots and especially since you told me how you are watering and with continuous watering for several weeks. You are way off target on your watering, too often and not enough water. If your bougainvillea has been in the ground for one year it requires very little water, in fact after one year I remove the drippers altogether on my bougainvillea and it rewards me with a great display of color. For the pepper tree if it is at least one year old deep watering once a week during the summer is very adequate, and by deep watering I mean running the drippers for 5 to 6 hours or until the water penetrates to adepth of 3 feet. You must get the roots down deep to get away from the hot soil surface and deep watering will help to flush the salts out of the root zone. Check out this link which will give you info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From twoluckydogs@mindspring.com Wed Aug 1 23:10:35 2001 From: twoluckydogs@mindspring.com (twoluckydogs@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:10:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108012310.f71NAZW11830@Ag.Arizona.Edu> gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Aug 1 23:23:27 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:23:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Harvesting Dates References: <200107312233.f6VMXHW16781@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <000a01c11ae0$f96002e0$fe51530c@j0r9501> There is an out-of-print Maricopa County CES Pub. No. 8330 that contains all of the requested information. It is too lengthy to include in the email body and attachments are not permitted on this email list. But you can view it at the temporary location: http://home.att.net/~millero/dates.htm Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > I have a date palm and am trying to learn how to tell when they are ripe, how to harvest and how to dry? Any suggestions for where to look for this information. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 23:30:08 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 23:30:08 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vacation-time watering, indoor plants Message-ID: Hello re: vaction-time watering of indoor potted plants For me, the best solution is to hire a neighbor to come in once a week to check the house and the health of the plants and to water all potted plants. If that isn't possible, group the plants together in a cool room (70 degrees) with no direct sunlight such as a bathroom with strong indirect light. You will probably need to keep the cooler or air conditioner on during hot months. THen follow one of the following: You can purchase felt capillary mats -- one end hangs down into a reservoir of water and the mat stays constantly wet. Stand plastic pots on the wet mat. Or fill containers taller than your pots with water and and place wisks from the container down into the soil in each pot to conduct water. (Be sure wicks are all the way to the bottom of the container.) A third possiblilty is to thoroughly water the pots and allow them to drain. Group them in the bathtob. Cover the plants with plastic bags supported by stakes so the plastic doesn't touch the foliage. Tie the bag around the rim of the pot. THe only system that has worked well for me is to ask a neighbor's help -- it is amazing what can happen in three weeks if there is no one around to catch problems as they arise. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: sonoraleisure@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) > >We go out of town for 2/3 weeks at a time. >Is there solution to keep the indoor potted plants alive and well for this >long ?. > >The Ciciliatos in Gold Canyon, AZ. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Wed Aug 1 23:41:51 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:41:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200108012310.f71NAZW11830@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <034501c11ae3$8ab06940$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The University of Arizona, Cooperative Extension. Yavapai County has an excellent article about gopher control. To access this article, use the following link. http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gophercontrol.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2001 4:10 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 23:46:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 23:46:57 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gophers Message-ID: Lethal trapping is the only method I have heard of that is effective for gophers. For details, see: http://ag.arizona.edu/yavapai/anr/hort/gopher/gophercontrol.html However, control is "short-term". To really deal with gophers you will need to look at management strategies that are "long-term". The most reliable pocket gopher treatment for small areas is exclusion. This is achieved by digging a trench 24-36 inches deep, and building a barrier of sheet metal, concrete, or hardware cloth. Remember, it should also extend at least 12 inches above ground. Problems with exclusion include excessively rocky soil and the occasional gopher that will dig under the barrier. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: twoluckydogs@mindspring.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2001 16:10:35 -0700 (MST) > >gophers destroyed my entire garden and my rose bushes this year. I have >tried many methods from poison sticks to wrigley's gum. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:04:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where might I sell or donate mesquite beans? References: <000801c117e2$46db27e0$b52e11cc@james> Message-ID: <3B695DED.6760D1DC@qwest.net> --------------9AE43D40F822637581427503 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are a little bit out of your neighborhood, but I know that the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix has put out a request earlier this summer to collect mesquite pods, including screwbeans which I personally have in abundance, for their ethnobotany classes. They never seem to have enough to make flour! You could contact the Tucson Botanical Gardens to see if they have a similar need. Linda Guy, MG Phoenix James W Pavlacky wrote: > Mesquite beans are bountiful this year. I have far too many squirrels > and rats living on and around my property because of the bean supply. > I would hope to sell or donate at least 10 bushels of honey mesquite > beans in late August. If you could refer me to possible recipients I > would certainly appreciate it. I live near Safford, Az, in SE > Arizona. Jim > Pavlacky --------------9AE43D40F822637581427503 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We are a little bit out of your neighborhood, but I know that the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix has put out a request earlier this summer to collect mesquite pods, including screwbeans which I personally have in abundance, for their ethnobotany classes. They never seem to have enough to make flour! You could contact  the Tucson Botanical Gardens to see if they have a similar need.

Linda Guy, MG
Phoenix

James W Pavlacky wrote:

Mesquite beans are bountiful this year. I have far too many squirrels and rats living on and around my property because of the bean supply. I would hope to sell or donate at least 10 bushels of honey mesquite beans in late August. If you could refer me to possible recipients I would certainly appreciate it. I live near Safford, Az, in SE Arizona.                                                      Jim Pavlacky
--------------9AE43D40F822637581427503-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:07:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:07:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Native Legumes Seeds References: <200107301911.f6UJBHW27578@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B695EBC.420BF131@qwest.net> I've not done this personally, but have been taught and have seen replies in this server that suggest that scarification with a file is the most expedient route to go. I haven't bothered because I generally leave enough seed debris under the trees that I have volunteers the following season. This would tend to support the scarification process, since we walk over the ground and mash the pods against the decomposed granite mulch. I never lack for volunteers! Linda Guy, MG bevg521@aol.com wrote: > I have saved seeds from my Native trees > Mesquite, Palo Verde, etc. Can I soak them overnite and plant them? Any suggestions?? > tree cuttings??? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:14:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:14:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweetpotatoes References: <000c01c114b4$4c08d2c0$e3a10404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B696047.43BF39D3@qwest.net> I turned to George Brookbank's standard, Desert Gardening, to see what he suggests. Since he recommends planting in an 18" deep trench, and slowly mounding soil until the trench is filled, this should give you some idea of how much mounding to do. If they survive the summer heat, they should be ready to harvest about the time of your Thanksgiving dinner! Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jonathan Kandell > To: Organic Gardening Discussion List > Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2001 6:37 PM > Subject: sweetpotatoes > > > I'm growing sweet potatoes. I have a bunch of long vines in a patch. Do I > > need to mound up dirt around the leaves and stems like you do with normal > > potatoes, or are they growing wonderfully under ground as the vine grows > > longer? > > > > jk > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:15:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:15:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Late Season Tomatoes References: <200107250500.f6P50tW08189@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B696099.75AFC47A@qwest.net> Most nurseries will stock some in the late summer and fall. Linda Guy, MG stutzee@att.net wrote: > I would like to know if there is any place in this area to buy tomato plants for late season planting. > I have started some from seed but young plants would have a better chance of producing before cold weather. > > Thanks > CES > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Aug 2 14:34:28 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2001 07:34:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: How long do black-eyed peas produce? References: <3B661DD3.32316925@totacc.com> <003001c11983$2ac2bc60$e6a10404@oemcomputer> <3B696442.4FE8A650@qwest.net> Message-ID: <002801c11b64$5b3ba680$97a20404@oemcomputer> No pest problems. Either virus or lack of fertilizer, perhaps? ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Guy To: Jonathan Kandell Cc: Arid_gardener Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2001 7:31 AM Subject: How long do black-eyed peas produce? > George Brookbank's book suggests that black-eyed peas can produce into > October. Are you having pest problems perhaps? > > Linda Guy, MG > > Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > > My black-eyed peas, planted in March, are now dying. They've produced two > > batches of beans. Is this normal for Tucson? > > > > j > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:22:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:22:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizards References: <200107250347.f6P3lsW01717@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B696209.192DE0B6@qwest.net> I don't see my lizards very often either, unless I'm out early morning or after dusk. I have some growing in my succulent collection on the front patio and see them every time I water and they scurry from the pots. The ones I see at night look like albinos, and I assume they are hidden from the sun during the daytime. I even have a few living in the house which I eventually catch and move outside when they get big enough for the dog to notice them. Linda Guy, MG jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > Thank you for the responses to my cricket problem. The answer seems to be lizards. I did some research, looking at past questions in this sight to find topics on lizards and I understand how to create a habitat for them, but I don't have lizards. I've only seen one and that was a year ago. > This may sound dumb, but do I buy them at the store, then release them? > (I must be getting into this gardening thing, a year ago I never would have dreamed of entertaining the thought of buying lizards or any other creature for that matter!) > Thanks for your response > > Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Aug 2 14:31:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 07:31:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How long do black-eyed peas produce? References: <3B661DD3.32316925@totacc.com> <003001c11983$2ac2bc60$e6a10404@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3B696442.4FE8A650@qwest.net> George Brookbank's book suggests that black-eyed peas can produce into October. Are you having pest problems perhaps? Linda Guy, MG Jonathan Kandell wrote: > My black-eyed peas, planted in March, are now dying. They've produced two > batches of beans. Is this normal for Tucson? > > j > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From TeeMcG@aol.com Fri Aug 3 21:50:50 2001 From: TeeMcG@aol.com (TeeMcG@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 14:50:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108032150.f73Loor19142@Ag.arizona.edu> What are the best plants to put around the pool to minimize leaves in the pool? Also, what are good xeriscape plants to plant in Phoenix, AZ that have a tropical appearence (for around the pool) From ewbtcb@earthlink.net Fri Aug 3 22:02:28 2001 From: ewbtcb@earthlink.net (E & T Barts) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 16:02:28 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ??? Message-ID: <3B6B1F73.AF9080BE@earthlink.net> Somehow, your messages are being forwarded here. Please stop that! ewbtcb@earthlink.net From cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Aug 3 22:03:11 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.arizona.edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 15:03:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: [AG] Fwd: mesquite roots Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010803150305.00aafaa0@ag.arizona.edu> >X-Sent-via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ >Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 13:30:48 -0700 >From: Evans >Reply-To: laurae@azstarnet.com >Organization: tcp >X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en] (Win98; U) >X-Accept-Language: en >To: Carol Noyes >Subject: Re: [AG] Fwd: mesquite roots > >You can treat them, but with the water so close, the tree will continue to be >a problem. If possible, move the garden, or raise the beds...on top of a >barrier if possible. Mesquites will seek water where they can find it. You may >also dig a large well around the tree and flood irrigate the area once a week >to keep the root zone happy. I know this isn't what you want to hear, but >trees are water hogs, and need to be treated as such. > > >Bruce Evans >Park Horticulturist >Tohono Chul Park Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Aug 3 22:36:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 18:36:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash tree not growing Message-ID: <3b.18494da8.289c8153@aol.com> Amy, Is it correct that you have flood irrigation? If so the trees certainly don't have a problem with lack of water. Do you live iin an area that has caliche? If so when the holes were dug was caliche encountered where the sickly tree is located? If you planted the trees yourself was the sickly tree root bound? Was construction debris encountered? Have you applied a weed killer to the grass or to weeds near the tree? Do you have an olive tree nearby that was sprayed with Olive Stop? Was the soil very severely compacted? I don't believe that Superthrive would be of any help in this case, however it doesn't cost much to try it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:21:40 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:21:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Shamel Ash Message-ID: Mr. McKusick, Thank you for your prompt reply. Yes, we do use flood irrigation. We did not plant the trees ourselves it was Moon Valley Nursery. In general it would be quite common to encounter caliche in our area of the east valley but we did build in the middle of what was farming land. Mostly alfalfa and sudan grass. I dont know if disking would break it up deep enough. I do not know if the tree was root bound or not as I did not get that close to the laborers as they planted it.(humor) There should not have been any construction debris in the area and there are no olive trees on or near our property. The soil was not severely compacted as it was recently farmland. As for weed killer, maybe 2 or 3 times have I used it in the past three years. I find pulling them out gives me greater satisfaction! So there you have it. The life of my sickly shamel ash. Would it be cruel to just have it dug up and dumped? Or is there hope? As I mentioned before the accompanied tree has really thrived and is lush and green quite nice to look at. Which only contrasts the unlushness (not a word) of the other tree. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Amy Shumway From Silvirado@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:27:47 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:27:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #160 - 21 msgs Message-ID: <102.6cff47e.289c9b83@aol.com> In a message dated 7/31/2001 11:27:03 AM US Mountain Standard Time, arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: << Actually Mishelle, I also have questions regarding the classes. Adding to yours I have an additional one. Do any of the Master Gardener's work in the "industry" and if so has this info been helpful? I work in the garden department at Home Depot. We have 3 master Gardeners in my store alone. Most Nurseries do not pay very well, that is why so many MG's end up at Home Depot. A problem, if you love plants, is that profit, not plant care, is the primary focus in the 'Big Boxes'. The classes are helpful in answering questions, which are non-stop in this area of transplants trying to garden in the desert, Suzanne Years ago I worked at a local nursery as a cashier. Although I hated the cashier part I loved working with plants. I wondered if the course would (hopefully) increase my salary and (more importantly) move me out of cashier into a position where I would be working more "hands on" with plants. >> From Silvirado@aol.com Sat Aug 4 00:36:44 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:36:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #160 - 21 msgs Message-ID: I just received some Ixora,( Ixora coccinea 'Maui Red' ) and can find next to nothing on it's care and behavior. Is anyone growing it in the Phoenix area? Any recommendations? Suzanne Silvir From TheCat1321@aol.com Sat Aug 4 03:40:20 2001 From: TheCat1321@aol.com (TheCat1321@aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 20:40:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108040340.f743eKr27970@Ag.arizona.edu> I recently moved to Henderson Nevada in a townhouse with a relatively small grass area for my dog, golden retreiver, to play. He has adjusted, but his urine is wrecking havoc with the grass. Is there anything to put on the grass or the dog to help? From starlene@uswest.net Sat Aug 4 05:41:49 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2001 22:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines Message-ID: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd like to hide). I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in and out) and will be green year round. I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in Phoenix). 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so be patient. 25 seeds 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very large seeds, so packets only contain 12. Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line the porch area? In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. Thanks in advance. Starlene From umiller@azdps.com Sat Aug 4 12:18:27 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 05:18:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines In-Reply-To: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: Hi - I would suggest cat's claw which grows well in Phoenix, climbs by itself, grows fast and has flowers. You can buy this plant in most garden places and home stores. I am not familiar with the vines you listed. For previous discussions about vines at this site, you can go to http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in the word vine and click on the Search button. You can also use the word vines (or any other word that you may be interested in). You may find some other suggestions there. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Starlene Stewart Sent: Friday, August 03, 2001 10:42 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd like to hide). I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in and out) and will be green year round. I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in Phoenix). 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so be patient. 25 seeds 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very large seeds, so packets only contain 12. Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line the porch area? In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. Thanks in advance. Starlene _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Aug 4 13:37:38 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 06:37:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Climbing Vines References: <001e01c11ca8$29010260$fb6db5d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <001301c11cea$a381c3c0$9451530c@j0r9501> You might check the winter hardiness of the vines you researched. I believe Canary Creeper is frost tender so it may freeze out when we have another cold winter - it only grows to about 6 feet. Morning glories are classified as prohibited noxious weeds in Arizona and seed companies can not ship seeds into AZ so you may have some difficulty finding seeds of Ipomoea alba - it would probably work for you if you can get the seed but may need more sun than it gets on a northern exposure to bloom well. Most flowering vines need quite a bit of sun and most are deciduous. Your English ivy should grow well on a north wall. Algerian ivy is more vigorous. The vines we usually see on walls are cat claw, creeping fig and coral vine but I am certain there are others. Cat claw has yellow trumpet flowers when planted in full sun but will bloom less with a northern exposure. Creeping fig (Ficus pumila) and Algerian ivy are vigorous growers - both need to be cut back annually to prevent damage to the roof and eaves - the vines will find and grow through any cracks. Coral Vine (Queen's wreath) is semi deciduous but might also work for you. There are many low water use shrubs that grow to 6 feet tall and as wide that you could use if you had the space. Olin Miller From: "Starlene Stewart" > I am wondering what would be some good types of climbing vines to > cover my porch (which is enclosed with chicken wire which I'd > like to hide). > I am looking for something that doesn't need a lot of water, will > climb all by itself (without my having to constantly weave it in > and out) and will be green year round. >> I currently have English Ivy and something else (no clue) but the > English Ivy seems to need a LOT of water and I have to maintain > where it grows very often. I have a soaker hose set up to water > the English Ivy, but it appears that I'm still not watering > appropriately and it just doesn't look very healthy. > I am looking at Pinetree Seeds online (www.superseeds.com) and I > was wondering if any of these would be appropriate (I live in > Phoenix). > 813. CANARY CREEPER-TROPAEOLUM PEREGRINUM > All of the descriptions and pictures I have seen about this > flowering vine still don't capture its attractive presence and > charm in real life--it has a vivid personality on a trellis, > gateway or fence that really grabs you. The rounded, lobed leaves > are exotic, rather tropical compared to what we're used to here > in Maine. It climbs, spreads and covers very well, making a lush > screen or canopy. The flowers are bright canary-yellow with some > tiny red splashes, made even more striking by the open "mouth" > and curled, pointed tail which float below two flared, fan-like > "wings." Distinctive among its relatives, the nasturtiums, this > South American native will enliven any garden or enclosed yard. > 30 seeds G9-18 $0.85 > 814. CHILEAN GLORY FLOWER- ECCREMOCARPUS SCABER > A quick growing climber that makes an enchanting lacy curtain > with its bipinnate leaves, tiny curling tendrils, and continual > clusters of 1" yellowy-orange tubular blooms. Hummingbirds love > this all summer long. Grow this close to your house so you can > watch them, and follow the flowers as they form, open, and then > produce the interesting pudgy seed pods. This is wonderful for > screening or shading a porch. 14-60 days germ. time on these so > be patient. 25 seeds > 816. WHITE MOONFLOWER > Ipomea Alba. Vines are exceptionally vigorous growing to a length > of twenty feet. Large, fragrant, white flowers open only in the > evening. This variety is also called Moon Vine. These are very > large seeds, so packets only contain 12. > Or would it be a better idea to just buy several bushes and line > the porch area? > In that case, what types of bush do you recommend that grow > quickly (tall), needs little watering and stays green year round? > Oh, and one more factor. My porch faces the north and so the > area where I wish to plant is shady most of the year from about > 2-3 feet from the porch going out into the yard. From KASKO8@aol.com Sat Aug 4 19:50:12 2001 From: KASKO8@aol.com (KASKO8@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 15:50:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] address change Message-ID: <6d.17d68739.289dabf4@aol.com> --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address: old address: jkasko@gateway.net new address: kasko8@aol.com My password is tuwimo Please let me know if I need to do this another way, etc. Thanks, joanne kasko --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Please change my email address:
old address:  jkasko@gateway.net
new address:  kasko8@aol.com

My password is tuwimo

Please let me know if I need to do this another way, etc.
Thanks,

joanne kasko --part1_6d.17d68739.289dabf4_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Aug 4 19:58:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 12:58:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizards References: <20010803170702.93038.qmail@web11003.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B6C53F5.B9862235@qwest.net> Thanks! I learn something new all the time. They are indeed as you've described, very tiny too. Linda Judy Braden wrote: > The ones you see at night are probably geckos. They > feed on night bugs. They are very pale little guys and > are very good guys to have around. > > --- Linda Guy wrote: > > I don't see my lizards very often either, unless I'm > > out early morning or after dusk. I have some growing > > in my succulent collection on the front patio and > > see them every time I water and they scurry from the > > pots. The ones I see at night look like albinos, and > > I assume they are hidden from the > > sun during the daytime. I even have a few living in > > the house which I eventually catch and move outside > > when they get big enough for the dog to notice them. > > > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > > > > > Thank you for the responses to my cricket problem. > > The answer seems to be lizards. I did some > > research, looking at past questions in this sight to > > find topics on lizards and I understand how to > > create a habitat for them, but I don't have lizards. > > I've only seen one and that was a year ago. > > > This may sound dumb, but do I buy them at the > > store, then release them? > > > (I must be getting into this gardening thing, a > > year ago I never would have dreamed of entertaining > > the thought of buying lizards or any other creature > > for that matter!) > > > Thanks for your response > > > > > > Jenn > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger > http://phonecard.yahoo.com/ From jnjpein@prodigy.net Sun Aug 5 00:52:19 2001 From: jnjpein@prodigy.net (jnjpein@prodigy.net) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 17:52:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050052.f750qJr17587@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in downtown phoenix. I have an established lawn and I would like to have a person look at my lawn, tell me what kind of grasses I have and how to care for the lawn throughout the year, i.e. when to fertilize, how much watering, overseeding, etc. I am prepared to pay for this advice. Thank you From madasmith@aol.com Sun Aug 5 01:25:07 2001 From: madasmith@aol.com (madasmith@aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 18:25:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050125.f751P7r19383@Ag.arizona.edu> I have ants all over my melons plants. Everything I looked at said not yo use around food products. What brand of ant killer is safe for my vegetable garden? From ainaelga@home.com Sun Aug 5 01:39:21 2001 From: ainaelga@home.com (ainaelga@home.com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 18:39:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050139.f751dLr20123@Ag.arizona.edu> Please advise if this is a good time to help the roses? Mine are sad in this extreme heat.....leaves have dropped, plagued by some sort of a white-webby-cocoony thing here and there....no flowers of course. Somewhere I heard that now is an ok time to prune and feed, I think personally, wait till later....Please advise if there is a rose care schedule for the Phoenix area available to me on the web. Thanks for all your time.. aina From gizmoaz@home.com Sun Aug 5 02:14:15 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2001 19:14:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses in Summer, correction to last message... References: <200108050139.f751dLr20123@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6CABF7.33E1E13E@home.com> Sorry, in my last message I said I do not purne till July, I meant January. There are excellent rose instructions at the following website: http://www.roses4az-mevrs.org/nss-folder/twelvemonthsofrosecare/ You get instructions for each of the 12 months of the year. I suspect that your white weby stuff is spidermites. You need to start spraying the undersides of your leaves with strong bursts of water 2 or 3 times a week to bring this under control. Soon it will be cooling off, and your roses will look beautiful again, and can provide beautiful blooms all the way through Christmas. You should *NOT* do any pruning until it cools off. I do not prune again until January. You want all that foilage, however little it may be to help shade your canes, and prevent sunburn, until it cools off. Good Luck!!! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 173 Rose Bushes Planted! 101 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ainaelga@home.com wrote: > Please advise if this is a good time to help the roses? Mine are sad in this extreme heat.....leaves have dropped, plagued by some sort of a white-webby-cocoony thing here and there....no flowers of course. Somewhere I heard that now is an ok time to prune and feed, I think personally, wait till later....Please advise if there is a rose care schedule for the Phoenix area available to me on the web. Thanks for all your time.. aina > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Bussefamily@AOL.Com Sun Aug 5 03:17:35 2001 From: Bussefamily@AOL.Com (Bussefamily@AOL.Com) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2001 20:17:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108050317.f753HZr28385@Ag.arizona.edu> A neighbor's Mesquite trees hang over my Tiff lawn, and now the grass under the branches has died. I have trimmed back the branches, but the grass will not grow back. I suspect the Mesquite Leaves that dropped on the lawn have ruined the soil. Is this possible, and what can I do to recondition the soil? From southpawaz@home.com Sun Aug 5 12:19:49 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 05:19:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass in shade References: <200108050317.f753HZr28385@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6D39E5.360D1252@home.com> Hi, The Mesquite leaves would not cause this problem. Bermuda grass does not do well in shade. If you have taken care of the shade by pruning the tree, you will probably want to go ahead and reseed or resod the area. Bussefamily@aol.com wrote: > > A neighbor's Mesquite trees hang over my Tiff lawn, and now the grass under the branches has died. I have trimmed back the branches, but the grass will not grow back. I suspect the Mesquite Leaves that dropped on the lawn have ruined the soil. Is this possible, and what can I do to recondition the soil? > -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From juanitat@w3az.net Sun Aug 5 13:05:34 2001 From: juanitat@w3az.net (juanitat@w3az.net) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 06:05:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108051305.f75D5Yr05063@Ag.arizona.edu> When do I prune and how do I divide Strelitzia reginea? What kind of fertilizer do I use and how often do I fertilize. I am located in zone 12. Thankyou From dickcarmi@aol.com Sun Aug 5 22:35:12 2001 From: dickcarmi@aol.com (dickcarmi@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 15:35:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108052235.f75MZCr07830@Ag.arizona.edu> I have two Australian or Argentina willows. One has a lower branch that leaves dried up and I cut off the branch. The next branch still at a lower level is drying up and I will loose it. Rest of leaves and branches look okay at this time. The second willow is not having the branch problem. However, many of the tips of the leaves, all over the tree, are turning brown and brittle. They break off leaving a flat edge to the leaves rather than the pointed tip. The rest of the leaf looks okay and feels okay. My question, of course, is what is the problem. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Aug 5 23:34:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 19:34:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree leaves drying and turning brown Message-ID: --part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. Check out this link for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I suspect that the tree is not getting enough water. Check out this link for
info on proper irrigation:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist
--part1_c.1980172d.289f3217_boundary-- From whales@home.com Mon Aug 6 01:04:42 2001 From: whales@home.com (whales@home.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 18:04:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108060104.f7614gr18794@Ag.arizona.edu> I have black ants and grey water bugs in my organic garden and compost. Are these critters ok or is there an organic way to get rid of them? I have a problem with the ants attacking and biting while I try to work in the garden.....help From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 02:22:52 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 19:22:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for poolside landscapes References: <200108032150.f73Loor19142@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B6DFF7C.7A2FB843@qwest.net> http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals The above link will take you to our publications page. You can view publication AZ1058 regarding plants for poolside landscapes online. Sue Bass Master Gardener TeeMcG@aol.com wrote: > What are the best plants to put around the pool to minimize leaves in the pool? > > Also, what are good xeriscape plants to plant in Phoenix, AZ that have a tropical appearence (for around the pool) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 02:30:09 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2001 19:30:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] California questions References: <72.d8e53e8.289733d6@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B6E0131.39648165@qwest.net> --------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It would be best if you contacted your local Cooperative Extension office for advice regarding your climate. We specialize in the low desert areas of Phoenix. You can find the phone number in the county listings of your phone book or go to: http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/coopext.htm for more information about cooperative extension services in California. Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ Hurleygram@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > The only trees that prosper in our area are live oaks and locust > trees. > Can i cut off the suckers of the locust and transplant them in more > useful > locations? > I live in the mountains between Banning, and Idllwild California, zip > code > 92220, elevation about 4000 feet. > Thank you, > Sincerely, > C.Hurley --------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It would be best if you contacted your local Cooperative Extension office for advice regarding your climate.  We specialize in the low desert areas of Phoenix.  You can find the phone number in the county listings of your phone book or go to: http://www.uckac.edu/danrcvr/coopext.htm
for more information about cooperative extension services in California.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener
Gilbert, AZ

Hurleygram@aol.com wrote:

Hello,
The only trees that prosper in our area are live oaks and locust trees.
Can i cut off the suckers of the locust and transplant them in more useful
locations?
I live in the mountains between Banning, and Idllwild California, zip code
92220, elevation about 4000 feet.
Thank you,
Sincerely,
C.Hurley
--------------855A83CFBB8D7C8AD255A946-- From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Mon Aug 6 03:58:41 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2001 23:58:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Shamel Ash Message-ID: <12b.2826d0f.289f6ff1@aol.com> Rod, Approximately how far down should I dig and what exactly will the roots look like? I' ve dug down about 8 inches and come across some thin roots but cannot idenify their nature. We have bermuda grass and I know those roots are pretty hardy. If indeed the root ball does appear to be bound what is the remedy? Is it to late to try and free them? Would we need to aerate the ground around the tree to a certain depth? Okay, different story now. My laborer (husband) dug down a bit further to approx. 18-24 inches. What we found is rather compacted dirt and few, thin roots. About 1/4 tapering to 1/8 of an inch in diameter. The hole was about 1 foot wide and within that area there were maybe a half a dozen of these little roots. Also the tree does have sporadic new growth on it. Hardly anything to sneeze at, but it is there. Can we save this pitiful creature? We're willing to try. Thanks again for all your help. Amy From cofine@yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 15:08:08 2001 From: cofine@yahoo.com (cofine@yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:08:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061508.f76F88r28347@Ag.arizona.edu> need information about hydroponic tomatoes, market, broker, dealers, thanks alot From sbarvian@prodigy.net Mon Aug 6 15:40:04 2001 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (sbarvian@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 08:40:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061540.f76Fe4r03568@Ag.arizona.edu> An Australian Willow tree in my yard has died suddenly. The tree was planted from a 24" box about 4 1/2 years ago and had been doing fine. Another similar tree about 15 feet away is also doing fine. Both trees were getting water on drip every 7-10 days. I see no evidence of leaf damage, and no "oozing" anywhere. There is a spot on the main trunk where the bark is peeling away but I don't know if that's anything. I bought these trees because the standard desert landscaping books do not mention any susceptibility to common diseases or root rot, etc. What else should I look for to determine why the tree died? Can I plant a similar tree in the same spot? Should I treat the soil with anything? Thanks for your help. From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Mon Aug 6 16:03:07 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 09:03:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener) hydroponic tomatoes References: <200108061508.f76F88r28347@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <003301c11e91$4bb30840$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Go to WWW.Google.Com and do a search on "hydroponic tomatoes". This will give you the informnation you are looking for. Scott Rogers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, August 06, 2001 8:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > need information about hydroponic tomatoes, market, broker, dealers, > thanks alot > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From pattiphnx@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 17:07:34 2001 From: pattiphnx@qwest.net (pattiphnx@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:07:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108061707.f76H7Yr20839@Ag.arizona.edu> I need help in identifying a weed. It is usually in the lawn and has small round green leaves with a purple stem. Stems radiate out from the base. It does not pull out easily (in most cases), and often has a milky substance when broken. Broad leaf weed killers have no effect on it. If anyone knows what it is, I'd also like to know what I can do to control it. From ADSHUMWAY@aol.com Mon Aug 6 17:24:54 2001 From: ADSHUMWAY@aol.com (ADSHUMWAY@aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 13:24:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing Ash(Duplicate) Message-ID: Rod, Did you recieve a detailed email on our root digging expedition that I thought I emailed over Sunday(5th) eve? This computer is a new addition and I' ve got a bit to figure out. I dont find the letter in my "sent mail" file so I'm not sure if it was successful or not. Please let me know. Thanks again, Amy From hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org Mon Aug 6 18:09:24 2001 From: hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org (hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 11:09:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan Tree Message-ID: <61377F019B55D311A3E60008C7339B7D56BEC8@MAILSERVER> In Lakeport California Valley what kind of Pecan Tree and where can I find some to purchase? Could you send some literature about Pecan Tree Care? Heidi Bertero, 4430 Sunrise Court, Davis California, 95616 FamiliesFirst, Inc. Heidi Bertero 530-297-3124 Government Relations hbertero@familiesfirstinc.org From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Aug 6 21:53:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 21:53:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [Arid_gardener) Weed in lawn Message-ID: The plant you are describing might be spotted spurge. It is an annual with prostrate stems that form a circular mat from a single taproot. It has a milky sap and a red spot on the upper center of the leaflet. Since this is an annual, an application of a pre-emergent may control it next year. Others on this list will have better contol information if the plant you have is spotted spurge - check for the red spot and taproot. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pattiphnx@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 10:07:34 -0700 (MST) > >I need help in identifying a weed. It is usually in the lawn and has small >round green leaves with a purple stem. Stems radiate out from the base. >It does not pull out easily (in most cases), and often has a milky >substance when broken. Broad leaf weed killers have no effect on it. If >anyone knows what it is, I'd also like to know what I can do to control it. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Aug 6 22:28:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 18:28:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian Willow died Message-ID: --part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Much of the soil in the Arizona low desert is infected with Texas Root Rot and the only trees that are immune are palms and bamboo. Many of the desert adapted trees are resistant, but can still become a host to the fungus. Two symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( with in a week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. To positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. The root sample should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch by about 8 inches as fresh as possible, do not wash. If it is found that the tree was killed by TRR the planting spot should be treated with a chemical called Vapam and then the soil treated with steer manure, amonium sulfate and sulfur. A bulletin is available at the Cooperative Extension about Texas Root Rot and subsequent treatments. Your irrigation interval sounds ok provided you apply enough water to penetrate 3 feet deep each time you irrigate. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Much of the soil in the Arizona low desert is infected with Texas Root Rot
and the only trees that are immune are palms and bamboo. Many of the desert
adapted trees are resistant, but can still become a host to the fungus. Two
symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( with in a
week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. To
positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam. The root sample
should be 3/8 to 1/2 inch by about 8 inches as fresh as possible, do not
wash. If it is found that the tree was killed by TRR the planting spot should
be treated with a chemical called Vapam and then the soil treated with steer
manure, amonium sulfate and sulfur. A bulletin is available at the
Cooperative Extension about Texas Root Rot and subsequent treatments.

Your irrigation interval sounds ok provided you apply enough water to
penetrate 3 feet deep each time you irrigate.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist


--part1_c4.183672e2.28a07402_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Aug 6 23:51:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 06 Aug 2001 16:51:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: trees References: <59.e311e26.28a07976@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B6F2D7E.D5A02700@qwest.net> Why not visit the following link http://www.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html' to locate a certified arborist. A certified Arborist is specially trained in all aspects of tree care. At the top of this link, it is suggested that you read the section entitled, "Why Hire A Certified Arborist?". Then you can locate one near you by zip code. Sue Bass Master Gardener R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > i have a variety of trees in my yard, i.e. mesquite, sweet acacia, palo brea, > and > blue palo verde. finding a qualified tree trimmer has been a bad experience. > they > are good to start and then you find they trim less and less off for the same > amount > of money. this summer i have lost one hugh blue palo verde and had four > mesquites > go down due to the winds. i need someone that is reliable and trustworthy. > is this > asking too much. please do you know of anyone. appreciate your assistance. From sbarvian@prodigy.net Tue Aug 7 00:31:09 2001 From: sbarvian@prodigy.net (Scott Barvian) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2001 17:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Australian Willow died References: Message-ID: <001b01c11ed8$423abf00$6ce4ffd1@barvian> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable "Two symptoms that point to Texas Root Rot are rapid death of a tree( = with in a=20 week or two ) and leaves that cling to the tree after they turn brown. " Yes, both of these things happened to my tree. "To positively ID TRR take a root sample to Maricopa County Cooperative=20 Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab exam." I think I'll do that. Thanks for the pointers. ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
"Two symptoms that point to = Texas Root Rot=20 are rapid death of a tree( with in a
week or two ) and leaves that = cling to=20 the tree after they turn brown. "
 
Yes, both of these things = happened to my=20 tree.
 
"To positively ID TRR take a = root sample to=20 Maricopa County Cooperative
Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix = 85040 for a=20 lab exam."
 
I think I'll do that.  = Thanks for the=20 pointers.
 
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C11E9D.94E021E0-- From ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov Tue Aug 7 22:23:22 2001 From: ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov (ssheldon@superiorcourt.maricopa.gov) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 15:23:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108072223.f77MNMr17931@Ag.arizona.edu> Is there anything out there right now that has been found to be an effective treatment for pearl scale? Either alone or in conjunction with other things? Thanks. sds From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 7 22:38:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 18:38:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lemon tree Message-ID: --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob, The most important thing that you can do for citrus if you live in the low desert is to make sure that they are watered and fertilized properly. Start out by checking out this link which will explain in detail hoow to water citrus properly: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 The next thing you should do is to get the bulletin titlled Citrus Care in the Home Yard from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob,
The most important thing that you can do for citrus if you live in the low
desert is to make sure that they are watered and fertilized properly. Start
out by checking out this link which will explain in detail hoow to water
citrus properly:  www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151
The next thing you should do is to get the bulletin titlled Citrus Care in
the Home Yard from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway,
Phoenix 85040
for $1.00

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_d3.18c24a91.28a1c7d2_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Aug 7 23:13:37 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 19:13:37 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: question for RodMcQ Message-ID: <21.f5037b6.28a1d021@aol.com> --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There are innumerable different scales that are found on horticultural plants and treatments will differ. If you live in the Phoenix area I would suggest that you take the insect to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 to find out which scale you have. When that is determined they will probably be able to help you in recommending a treatment. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit There  are innumerable different scales that are found on horticultural
plants and treatments will differ. If you live in the Phoenix area I would
suggest that you take the insect to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension,
4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 to find out which scale you have. When that
is determined they will probably be able to help you in recommending a
treatment.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.f5037b6.28a1d021_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Aug 7 23:58:52 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 16:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: mexican bird of paradise] Message-ID: <3B7080BC.262192F2@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 29270 invoked by uid 0); 7 Aug 2001 04:41:36 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Aug 2001 04:41:36 -0000 Received: (qmail 34071 invoked by uid 0); 7 Aug 2001 04:41:32 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-r02.mx.aol.com) (152.163.225.98) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 7 Aug 2001 04:41:32 -0000 Received: from My4thtee@cs.com by imo-r02.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v31.9.) id z.7b.18ad91c2 (4592); Tue, 7 Aug 2001 00:41:26 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2001 00:41:25 EDT Message-ID: <7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75@cs.com> From: My4thtee@cs.com To: lindaguy@qwest.net Cc: My4thtee@cs.com Subject: mexican bird of paradise MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary" X-Mailer: CompuServe 2000 6.0 for Windows US sub 10501 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed a brief discussion where there was some question rather the "mexican" was the subject of the question. Anyway, I bought one and it was healthy when arriving home in Sun City AZ; the stalk was quite thick and healthy, seemingly too large for the delicate stems growing from it. I left it in the nursery can for a few weeks and the top turned brown before I could plant it. Question: Is the whole plant dead? Or can I trust the size of the stalk to renew growth when I plant it? Professional Landscapers in Scottsdale are very generous with this plant in tract homes and Kierland Golf Course. It seems to need very little water and care. Thank You for any information. I really like the color of this shrub. --part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I noticed a brief discussion where there was some question rather the
"mexican"  was the subject of the question.  Anyway, I bought one and it was
healthy when arriving home in Sun City AZ; the stalk was quite thick and
healthy, seemingly too large for the delicate stems growing from it.  I left
it in the nursery can for a few weeks and the top turned brown before I could
plant it.  Question:  Is the whole plant dead? Or can I trust the size of the
stalk to renew growth when I plant it?  
Professional Landscapers in Scottsdale are very generous with this plant in
tract homes and Kierland Golf Course.  It seems to need very little water and
care.
Thank You for any information.  I really like the color of this shrub.
--part1_7b.18ad91c2.28a0cb75_boundary-- --------------D2C97C39CD191D989BA5BE48-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 8 00:58:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:58:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Star Jasmine References: <000e01c11a23$63479e20$ed3111d0@computer> Message-ID: <3B708EB9.61E29799@qwest.net> --------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It may prefer north and eastern exposures in the low desert of Phoenix http://azcentral.plantadviser.com/plants/tracjasm.htm but you should note that it is damaged at 20 degrees. I have read in more than one website that at your latitude, it is probably grown as a houseplant. http://www.plantideas.com/in/in44.html Any common search engine will turn up a number of sources for the plant. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chalkhillclematis/vitvenvialco.html Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Amy and Shane wrote: > Hi, I ran accross a message written by you on a message board > concerning the vine "star jasmine" I would love to order some of this > beautiful vine, and it sounds like you know alot about it. Could you > tell me if it is winter hardy to zone 6? I live in Maryland. Thanks > alot. --------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It may prefer north and eastern exposures in the low desert of Phoenix  http://azcentral.plantadviser.com/plants/tracjasm.htm
but you should note that it is damaged at 20 degrees.

I have read in more than one website that at your latitude, it is probably grown as a houseplant.  http://www.plantideas.com/in/in44.html

Any common search engine will turn up a number of sources for the plant.
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/chalkhillclematis/vitvenvialco.html

Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG

Amy and Shane wrote:

Hi, I ran accross a message written by you on a message board concerning the vine "star jasmine" I would love to order some of this beautiful vine, and it sounds like you know alot about it. Could you tell me if it is winter hardy to zone 6? I live in Maryland. Thanks alot.
--------------E84033C98032D96784D8B1CC-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Aug 8 00:53:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2001 17:53:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ixora References: Message-ID: <3B708D74.95B80D0D@qwest.net> This is what I found using a common search engine. Evidently it's a common blooming plant of Panama, although another source lists it as a native of Asia. http://www.hortpix.com/pc2328.htm hhttp://davesgarden.com/plants/genus/Ixora/ http://www.odedodea.edu/sites/balboa/ixora.html http://www.klahanie.ca/ixora.htm http://www.floridaplants.com/horticulture/ixora.htm http://www.floridagardener.com/pom/ixora.htm Linda Guy, MG Silvirado@aol.com wrote: > I just received some Ixora,( Ixora coccinea 'Maui Red' ) and can find next > to nothing on it's care and behavior. Is anyone growing it in the Phoenix > area? Any recommendations? > > Suzanne Silvir > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rmoy@dancris.com Wed Aug 8 17:06:31 2001 From: rmoy@dancris.com (rmoy@dancris.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 10:06:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081706.f78H6Ur10623@Ag.arizona.edu> I cannot get a citrus tree to grow. I buy the best, Monrovia, and plant them in large containers on my patio. They start off super, then all the leaves fall off. Are they dead? Will the leaves come back in the fall? Should I just buy grapefruit and lemons at the grocery store? Thank you for any words of wisdom!!!!! From ValWatkins1@Home.com Wed Aug 8 18:04:20 2001 From: ValWatkins1@Home.com (ValWatkins1@Home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:04:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081804.f78I4Kr20560@Ag.arizona.edu> Just how far should mesquite trees be cut back? I also have a split on a branch,should I spray the affected branch with pruning spray? The branch is 13inches in diameter. From ValWatkins1@Home.com Wed Aug 8 18:05:34 2001 From: ValWatkins1@Home.com (ValWatkins1@Home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 11:05:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108081805.f78I5Yr20726@Ag.arizona.edu> Just how far should mesquite trees be cut back? I also have a split on a branch,should I spray the affected branch with pruning spray? The branch is 13inches in diameter. Valerie J. Watkins From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 8 21:58:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 17:58:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite with a broken branch Message-ID: <6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b@aol.com> --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the branch is located where it would become a hazzard if it broke off it should be removed right away. The crack in the tree will never heal so removing the branch could possibly be a way of saving the tree.The use of a pruning sealer is no longer recommended, it simply provides a cover for bacteria. It sounds as if the tree may be too large to be pruned without special equuipment. I suggest that you call a Certified Arborist. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If the branch is located where it would become a hazzard if it broke off it
should be removed right away. The crack in the tree will never heal so
removing the branch could possibly be a way of saving the tree.The use of a
pruning sealer is no longer recommended, it simply provides a cover for
bacteria. It sounds as if the tree may be too large to be pruned without
special equuipment. I suggest that you call a Certified Arborist.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_6b.183eb8c1.28a3100b_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Aug 8 22:09:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:09:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus leaves falling off Message-ID: <5b.19dd1843.28a31299@aol.com> --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When citrus leaves fall off it usually is due to some type of stress, and most often that stress is caused by improper irrigation. I suggest that you give your tree more water. Check out this link for info on irrigating citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit When citrus leaves fall off it usually is due to some type of stress, and
most often that stress is caused by improper irrigation. I suggest that you
give your tree more water. Check out this link for info on irrigating citrus:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_5b.19dd1843.28a31299_boundary-- From oatnut@home.com Wed Aug 8 23:33:55 2001 From: oatnut@home.com (oatnut@home.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:33:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108082333.f78NXtr17737@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 banana yuccas, 1 in a pot, 1 in the ground. They both are overgrown. Is it possible to cut off a branch and transplant it? From umiller@azdps.com Wed Aug 8 23:29:54 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 16:29:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potted Citrus Dying In-Reply-To: <200108081706.f78H6Ur10623@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Hi - I just HAD to respond to you when I saw your question because of your grocery store comment. It made me feel so bad for you. As Rod mentions, the problem may be your watering techniques. Here is some text from my citrus book. It specifically addresses container citrus plants: Plants grown in containers require more frequent watering than those grown in the ground. Dark-colored containers will dry out faster than light-colored ones and prous pots make of wood or clay will dry out fatster than the nonporous plastic. Apply enough water so that the entire rootball becomes wet. This may take several passes with the hose. Make sure the water is not just running down the space between the rootball and the container, a common occurrence if the plant has gone long without water. In areas with salty water, such as the Southwest, be sure to leach the soil well by adding enough water so that 10 to 20 percent of the wate rapplied drains from the bottom of the container. You can get a good idea as to whether a plants needs water by gently tipping its container. If it feels light, the plant needs water; if it feels heavy the plant can probably go a while longer. I hope this helps so that you don't have to go to the grocery store. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of rmoy@dancris.com Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2001 10:07 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I cannot get a citrus tree to grow. I buy the best, Monrovia, and plant them in large containers on my patio. They start off super, then all the leaves fall off. Are they dead? Will the leaves come back in the fall? Should I just buy grapefruit and lemons at the grocery store? Thank you for any words of wisdom!!!!! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Tanveerj5721@aol.com Thu Aug 9 01:07:23 2001 From: Tanveerj5721@aol.com (Tanveerj5721@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:07:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090107.f7917Nr04281@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted catsclaw in my backyard which has gone to the tile roof. My neighbor told me that the catsclaw can make the tiles loose and they will fall off. I want to know if this is true? Please e-mail the answer. Thanks From fscapellit@mindspring.com Thu Aug 9 01:42:33 2001 From: fscapellit@mindspring.com (fscapellit@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 18:42:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090142.f791gXr08340@Ag.arizona.edu> Our Queen Palms have a bulge in the upper part of the trunk. What could that be. I thought all trees had uniform trunk shape. Thank you. From Birds113@aol.com Thu Aug 9 02:28:32 2001 From: Birds113@aol.com (Birds113@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 19:28:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090228.f792SWr13388@Ag.arizona.edu> My Texas Umbrella tree lost 2 large limbs and the bark is torn from the South side of the tree, from the "Y" where the trunk joins the branches, to a foot from the ground. Essentially, half of the bark is gone. This occurred during a windstorm yesterday. What can I do to keep this tree alive? Thanks. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 9 03:02:26 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 23:02:26 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree damage in storm Message-ID: <12b.2adc3ae.28a35742@aol.com> --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but there isn't anything that you can do to save your tree. The tree's circulation system is in the bark and when you lose half of the bark the tree probably will not last long. I suggest replacing the tree. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sorry but there isn't anything that you can do to save your tree. The tree's
circulation system is in the bark and when you lose half of the bark  the
tree probably will not last long. I suggest replacing the tree.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_12b.2adc3ae.28a35742_boundary-- From nicolori@webtv.net Thu Aug 9 03:44:59 2001 From: nicolori@webtv.net (nicolori@webtv.net) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2001 20:44:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108090344.f793ixr25872@Ag.arizona.edu> Several months ago we planted a Shamel Ash tree. The leaves are starting to turn yellow...what is it lacking? From gjhadden@msn.com Thu Aug 9 13:38:16 2001 From: gjhadden@msn.com (??? ???) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 06:38:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] mistletoe removal ... best season to do it? Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We just bought a home in the desert with many Palo Verde Trees some of wh= ich have one of two mistletoe's attached... is there a "bad" time to remo= ve these parasites? An optimal time? Also is there anyone you may recomme= nd that we could pay to come out to our home to do a walk through inspect= ion of our plant life? Thank you. ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We just bought= a home in the desert with many Palo Verde Trees some of which have one o= f two mistletoe's attached... is there a "bad" time to remove these paras= ites? An optimal time? Also is there anyone you may recommend that we cou= ld pay to come out to our home to do a walk through inspection of our pla= nt life? Thank you.

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C1209D.DED77120-- From lizmiles@home.com Thu Aug 9 17:32:13 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 10:32:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus Message-ID: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> I recently bought several red hibiscus trees (about 5' tall) and planted them in large pots (with drainage) around my pool in full sun. They have lost some of their original fullness and some leaves are yellowing. They don't have the same deep green leaf color they came with. They do produce flowers. I have also noticed tiny ants on the trunks, which I also see in the river rocks around the pool. Am I watering too much or too little? Do they need something like Miracle Grow? We are having guests in 2 weeks and I would really like them to look lush by then. Thanks so much. Liz Miles From s2@auroranow.org Thu Aug 9 17:55:20 2001 From: s2@auroranow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 10:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus References: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> Message-ID: <3B72CE88.62285094@auroranow.org> Liz, Hibiscus do best here in the low desert out of full afternoon sun. They like regular water, but good drainage, and not too much wind. Feed them with a palm fertilizer. (not a master gardener) -- Sherryl Stalinski ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Aug 9 18:03:21 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 09 Aug 2001 11:03:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hibiscus References: <3B72C91D.E988E468@home.com> Message-ID: <3B72D069.2A092DDC@email.sps.mot.com> Liz, I read, and have used with great success Palm Tree fertilizer for my hibiscus. I was having the same problems you mention below when using Miracle Grow and some of the other water soluble fertilizers. You could be watering too much as well. You do not mention how often you water. If they are in pots, I would probably water every other day, maybe even every day if they are in full sun. If you can, put mulch on top to keep the roots cool and the moisture in the pot. You must soak the pots good, to flush out all the salts when you do water. Last but not least, it is white fly season. They suck the moisture out of your leaves, thus they turn yellow and fall off. Spray the undersides of your leaves on your Hibiscus every time you water, with a strong jet of water. This will help keep the white flies under control. I spray the undersides of the leaves till I don't see any white flies flying around the plant anymore. There are some great web sites out there on hibiscus. Get onto http://www.google.com and type in hibiscus as your search word, you will find lots of references on hibiscus there. I must emphasize that since I switched from miracle grow type fertilizers to palm tree food, I have seen a 100% improvement in my hibiscus. Try to get a time released fertilizer if you can so it does not burn the roots so easily. Otherwise, water, then put on the fertilizer, then water again. Good luck! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 173 Rose Bushes Planted! 101 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Liz Miles wrote: > I recently bought several red hibiscus trees (about 5' tall) and planted > them in large pots (with drainage) around my pool in full sun. They have > lost some of their original fullness and some leaves are yellowing. > They don't have the same deep green leaf color they came with. They do > produce flowers. I have also noticed tiny ants on the trunks, which I > also see in the river rocks around the pool. Am I watering too much or > too little? Do they need something like Miracle Grow? We are having > guests in 2 weeks and I would really like them to look lush by then. > > Thanks so much. > > Liz Miles > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Aug 9 21:14:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 17:14:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shamel Ash with yellow leaves Message-ID: --part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The most common causes of yellow leaves on plants are either over or under watering. The following link will give you information on proper watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The most common causes of yellow leaves on plants are either over or under
watering. The following link will give you information on proper watering:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener



--part1_e2.18d3cef6.28a45741_boundary-- From ewnowlin@home.com Thu Aug 9 23:45:07 2001 From: ewnowlin@home.com (ewnowlin@home.com) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2001 16:45:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200108092345.f79Nj7r03513@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a section of my lot where nothing