From StevCatAlxMar@aol.com Sat Dec 1 01:48:26 2001 From: StevCatAlxMar@aol.com (StevCatAlxMar@aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:48:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Queen Palms with yellow fronds Message-ID: <11d.8376b40.293990ea@aol.com> --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend. Happy holidays, Steve Joseph (623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend.
Happy holidays,
Steve Joseph
(623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary-- From c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net Sat Dec 1 05:46:17 2001 From: c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net (Charles Laughlin) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 21:46:17 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whoops! Message-ID: <000c01c17a2b$8043e480$1743530c@compaq> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear LADIES and Gentlemen: Please accept my sincere=20 apologies for major boo-boo - addressing my questions to only "gentlemen" - this was certainly an unintentional exclusion of people I love! Sincerely, Charles Laughlin ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear LADIES and Gentlemen:

Please accept my sincere=20

apologies for major boo-boo -

addressing my questions to only

"gentlemen" - this was certainly

an unintentional exclusion of

people I love! = Sincerely,

= =20 Charles Laughlin

------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60-- From psevin4771@aol.com Sat Dec 1 16:49:43 2001 From: psevin4771@aol.com (psevin4771@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 09:49:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112011649.fB1Gnha00389@Ag.arizona.edu> We trimmed a bougenvilla down because there were so many dead branches on the inside, it grows against a south wall. Now it appears dead, alll dead branches. Is there anything that we can do to revive it? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 1 21:49:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:49:46 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvillea appears dead from pruning Message-ID: <91.145f1e88.293aaa7a@aol.com> --part1_91.145f1e88.293aaa7a_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you cut the bougainvillea to the ground you may have killed it . The rule of thumb for pruning any tree or shrub is to never prune off more than 30% in one year. If new growth does not show by next spring the plant is probably dead. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_91.145f1e88.293aaa7a_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you cut the bougainvillea to the ground you may have killed it . The rule of thumb for pruning any tree or shrub is to never prune off more than 30% in one year. If new growth does not show by next spring the plant is probably dead.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_91.145f1e88.293aaa7a_boundary-- From bsmaas@earthlink.net Sun Dec 2 00:54:55 2001 From: bsmaas@earthlink.net (bsmaas@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 17:54:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112020054.fB20sta11111@Ag.arizona.edu> I'd like to get info on the care of native mesquite trees. I have one in my yard (near Wickenburg) that seems to be ailing - few leaves, and buds them very late in the spring. Any ideas on watering, pruning, etc.would be appreciated. I'd hate to lose it. From finneganjohnpe@webtv.net Sun Dec 2 13:08:28 2001 From: finneganjohnpe@webtv.net (finneganjohnpe@webtv.net) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 06:08:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112021308.fB2D8Sa26113@Ag.arizona.edu> How can I find the rainfall records for Sun City West AZ for Sept.,Oct.and Nov. 1993? Any help you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. Thank You John From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 2 14:00:26 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 07:00:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rainfall amounts References: <200112021308.fB2D8Sa26113@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000501c17b39$b1f72140$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi John! I doubt that you are going to be able to find rain amounts for Sun City West as I do not believe that there are any cooperative or National Weather Sites (NWS) sites in Sun City West. Here is a link to all of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) cooperative and NWS sites. This site will give you access to monthly digital precipitation data, through 1997, for all cooperative and NWS stations http://lwf.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/climate/online/coop-precip.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2001 6:08 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > How can I find the rainfall records for Sun City West AZ for Sept.,Oct.and Nov. 1993? > Any help you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. > Thank You > John > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Dec 2 18:04:03 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 11:04:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rainfall History At Sun City West References: <200112021308.fB2D8Sa26113@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000801c17b5b$bc88b200$7f50530c@j0r9501> Take a look at AZMET's station at Waddell. Its at the end of Greenway Road at the NW corner of the White Tanks - only a few miles from SCW. Select the monthly report link for 1993. It has the rainfall amount for each day of the year plus monthly totals. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > How can I find the rainfall records for Sun City West AZ for Sept.,Oct.and Nov. 1993? > Any help you can provide me with will be greatly appreciated. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 2 18:29:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 13:29:20 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite with few leaves Message-ID: <13e.5787ff5.293bcd00@aol.com> --part1_13e.5787ff5.293bcd00_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mesquites are deciduous and as such will lose their leaves as the weather cools in late fall and winter. Once the mesquite tree is established ( two years) it can exist with very little water however it won't show much growth or look its best.Since we have had four or five very dry years the trees tap root may not be able to keep up with the falling water table. My sugestion is to deep water the tree once every two to three weeks in summer and every six to eight weeks in winter. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13e.5787ff5.293bcd00_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Mesquites are deciduous and as such will lose their leaves as the weather cools in late fall and winter. Once the mesquite tree is established ( two years) it can exist with very little water however it won't show much growth or look its best.Since we have had four or five very dry years the trees tap root may not be able to keep up with the falling water table.
My sugestion is to deep water the tree once every two to three weeks in summer and every six to eight weeks in winter.
Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_13e.5787ff5.293bcd00_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 2 18:57:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 13:57:17 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine Trees with browning needles Message-ID: <13.2b2cedd.293bd38d@aol.com> --part1_13.2b2cedd.293bd38d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you are seeing on your pines is probably Aleppo Pine Blight which is thought to be temperature induced and for which there is not a treatment. Continue the perioidic deep watering of your trees and they should recover by next spring. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_13.2b2cedd.293bd38d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit What you are seeing on your pines is probably Aleppo Pine Blight which is thought to be temperature induced and for which there is not a treatment. Continue the perioidic deep watering of your trees and they should recover by next spring.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_13.2b2cedd.293bd38d_boundary-- From jessyyeager@yahoo.com Sun Dec 2 23:51:13 2001 From: jessyyeager@yahoo.com (jessyyeager@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 16:51:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112022351.fB2NpDa04801@Ag.arizona.edu> Hello there Im very new to garding but wanted to try to grow peppers out of a pot is that possiable to do and how deep of a pot would I need. Thank you very much. From KLH718@aol.com Mon Dec 3 13:58:09 2001 From: KLH718@aol.com (KLH718@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 08:58:09 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses Message-ID: <106.99cc0f1.293cdef1@aol.com> --part1_106.99cc0f1.293cdef1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing. Is there anything to be done? thanks ! ! ! and, can you please put me on your mailing list? Thanks --part1_106.99cc0f1.293cdef1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing.

Is there anything to be done?

thanks ! ! !

and, can you please put me on your mailing list?

Thanks --part1_106.99cc0f1.293cdef1_boundary-- From dorisnick@cybertrails.com Mon Dec 3 20:08:57 2001 From: dorisnick@cybertrails.com (dorisnick@cybertrails.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 13:08:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112032008.fB3K8va00682@Ag.arizona.edu> Are sweet potatoes suitable for Tucson area? How do They get started?? From "eyes"like white potatoes?? I never see seeds. I can"t find info on how to get them started. Thank you for any help you can give me. From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Dec 3 21:28:18 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 14:28:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potatoes in Tucson References: <200112032008.fB3K8va00682@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C0BEE72.DF35420C@qwest.net> http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-June/007972.html The above link will take you to a previous response to a question regarding growing sweet potatoes. The response refers to a book by George Brookbank called Desert Gardening. Mr. Brookbank lives in the Tucson area. Sue Bass Master Gardener dorisnick@cybertrails.com wrote: > Are sweet potatoes suitable for Tucson area? > How do They get started?? From "eyes"like white potatoes?? I never see seeds. I can"t find info on how to get them started. > > Thank you for any help you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 3 23:33:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 18:33:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses Message-ID: <12d.8a3e7c3.293d65df@aol.com> --part1_12d.8a3e7c3.293d65df_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit KLH You didn't say what variety of roses that you have in your garden. There are some varieties of roses whose blooms only last for one day, you probably have one of the varieties that do that. For info on the Arid Gardener mailing list check with mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_12d.8a3e7c3.293d65df_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit KLH

You didn't say what variety of roses that you have in your garden. There are some varieties of roses whose blooms only last for one day, you probably have one of the varieties that do that.

For info on the Arid Gardener mailing list check with mailman-owner@ag.arizona.edu

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_12d.8a3e7c3.293d65df_boundary-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Tue Dec 4 00:04:15 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2001 17:04:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potatoes in Tucson References: <200112032008.fB3K8va00682@Ag.arizona.edu> <3C0BEE72.DF35420C@qwest.net> Message-ID: <004401c17c58$31229200$09a20404@oemcomputer> Sweet potatoes grow great in Tucson! They're one of the few crops that grow through the summer heat. (It's nice to having something growing during that period.) In Tucson you plant the tubers in May or early June and harvest them in November. You don't need to buy tubers, you can easily grow your own by putting a store-bought sweet potato in a jar with water on your windowsill till it has six inch vines coming out of it, chip the best ones off and plant those 10 to 12" part. I got plenty of potatoes from three tubers, so don't plant too many. Make sure your soil isn't too hard or shallow or you'll get a few giant potatoes instead of lots of normal ones. (So I've heard. ;-)) Sweet potatoes take up a lot of space for a long time, so think twice before you plant them. Feel free to email if you have any questions. The George Brookbank book mentioned by Sue Bass is excellent for all vegetables, a bible for Tucson, really. I also recommend Jane Nyhuis's book "Desert Harvest: A Guide to Vegetable Gardening in Arid Lands" (available at Native Seed Search on Fourth Ave or the UA library) which compliments Brookbank's book and is organic. jk ----- Original Message ----- > > dorisnick@cybertrails.com wrote: > > > Are sweet potatoes suitable for Tucson area? > > How do They get started?? From "eyes"like white potatoes?? I never see seeds. I can"t find info on how to get them started. > > > > Thank you for any help you can give me. > > From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Dec 4 14:25:03 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 07:25:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] roses References: <106.99cc0f1.293cdef1@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C0CDCBF.3106336@email.sps.mot.com> --------------8C3B6AAFD7882C6D695BF5EF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, Do you know what the name of the roses are? There are some roses out there that just do not last long. They blow very quickly. I suspect you have some of those type roses. They generally are more of a garden rose than a cutting rose. Regards, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! KLH718@aol.com wrote: > I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south > facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other > words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding > stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I > pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing. > > Is there anything to be done? > > thanks ! ! ! > > and, can you please put me on your mailing list? > > Thanks --------------8C3B6AAFD7882C6D695BF5EF Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi,

Do you know what the name of the roses are? There are some roses out there that just do not last long. They blow very quickly. I suspect you have some of those type roses. They generally are more of a garden rose than a cutting rose.

Regards,
-----
Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13

http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!!
Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!!

KLH718@aol.com wrote:

I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing.
Is there anything to be done?
thanks ! ! !
and, can you please put me on your mailing list?
Thanks

--------------8C3B6AAFD7882C6D695BF5EF-- From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Tue Dec 4 18:05:34 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 11:05:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] are ants the worms of the desert? Message-ID: <000001c17cee$bc484c80$5aaa3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C17CB3.98955C00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of = organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less = extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where = there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my = gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most of = them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What I'm = now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same aerating = function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb texture = and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course there's no = ant-castings, or is there? jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C17CB3.98955C00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Although desert soil eventually gets worms after = several=20 years of organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see = in less=20 extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where = there is=20 more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of = ants in my=20 gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience = most of=20 them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. = What=20 I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same = aerating=20 function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb texture = and=20 allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course there's no=20 ant-castings, or is there?

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C17CB3.98955C00-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 5 00:10:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 19:10:35 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Repelling Fabric Message-ID: <14c.5271b57.293ebffb@aol.com> --part1_14c.5271b57.293ebffb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All, About two years ago I found an internet company that markets a root repelling fabric. Unfortunately my search today did not turn up anything nor did my files. Do any of you have any info. My problem is that queen palm roots are killing my roses and I would like to find something to install in the holes for the new roses that I'm about to plant that will repell the queen palm roots. Thanks for any info that you may have. Rod McKusick --part1_14c.5271b57.293ebffb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi All,

About two years ago I found an internet company that markets a root repelling fabric. Unfortunately my search today did not turn up anything nor did my files. Do any of you have any info.
My problem is that queen palm roots are killing my roses and I would like to find something to install in the holes for the new roses that I'm about to plant that will repell the queen palm roots.
Thanks for any info that you may have.

Rod McKusick --part1_14c.5271b57.293ebffb_boundary-- From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Dec 5 00:36:15 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 17:36:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Repelling Fabric In-Reply-To: <14c.5271b57.293ebffb@aol.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C17CEA.2C4FE6F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Rod, Try http://www.reemay.com/biobarrier/index.html Regards steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of RodMcQ6@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 5:11 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Repelling Fabric Hi All, About two years ago I found an internet company that markets a root repelling fabric. Unfortunately my search today did not turn up anything nor did my files. Do any of you have any info. My problem is that queen palm roots are killing my roses and I would like to find something to install in the holes for the new roses that I'm about to plant that will repell the queen palm roots. Thanks for any info that you may have. Rod McKusick ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C17CEA.2C4FE6F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear=20 Rod,

Try

http://www.reemay.co= m/biobarrier/index.html

Regards

steve

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of=20 RodMcQ6@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 5:11=20 PM
To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject: = [Arid_gardener]=20 Root Repelling Fabric

Hi All,

About two years ago I found an internet company = that=20 markets a root repelling fabric. Unfortunately my search today did not = turn up=20 anything nor did my files. Do any of you have any info.
My problem = is that=20 queen palm roots are killing my roses and I would like to find something = to=20 install in the holes for the new roses that I'm about to plant that will = repell=20 the queen palm roots.
Thanks for any info that you may have. =

Rod=20 McKusick ------=_NextPart_000_005B_01C17CEA.2C4FE6F0-- From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 5 00:59:17 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 17:59:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Root Repelling Fabric References: <14c.5271b57.293ebffb@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C0D7165.79ECA51@home.com> Rod, I found this website: http://www.hort-enterprises.com/ Check out bio barrier, also the have the price list here: http://www.hort-enterprises.com/pricelist.htm There were several more sites. Do a search at google.com on "root control fabric" Regards, -- Christmas isn't just a day, it's a frame of mind." Edmund Gwenn ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Hi All, > > About two years ago I found an internet company that markets > a root repelling fabric. Unfortunately my search today did > not turn up anything nor did my files. Do any of you have > any info. > My problem is that queen palm roots are killing my roses and > I would like to find something to install in the holes for > the new roses that I'm about to plant that will repell the > queen palm roots. > Thanks for any info that you may have. > > Rod McKusick From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Wed Dec 5 06:55:18 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2001 23:55:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] hasteing tomato ripen Message-ID: <000701c17da1$e33fcb20$8cb43604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C17D1F.20BE86E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm sure like many of you, you're waiting for your green tomatoes to = ripen.... Has anyone experimented with using remay atop to speed things, = and putting red objects amongst the leaves? =20 jk ------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C17D1F.20BE86E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm sure like many of you, you're waiting for = your green=20 tomatoes to ripen.... Has anyone experimented with using remay atop to = speed=20 things, and putting red objects amongst the leaves?

------=_NextPart_000_0033_01C17D1F.20BE86E0-- From reichel2@home.com Wed Dec 5 16:43:16 2001 From: reichel2@home.com (David W. Reichel) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 09:43:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <003d01c17dab$f05eaa60$b851b118@chnd1.az.home.com> Is there a method for germinating pomegranates from the fruit or must you purchase a growing plant and re-plant it? Thanks David W. Reichel From bcerjek@LS.dvusd.org Wed Dec 5 19:23:48 2001 From: bcerjek@LS.dvusd.org (bcerjek@LS.dvusd.org) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 12:23:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112051923.fB5JNmB11547@Ag.arizona.edu> Due to the heat in November my bermuda grass grew back after scalping and planting winter rye. Now with the bermuda dying my yard looks quite patchy. Will the rye still grow in or will I have to re-seed? All the rye came in initially but the regrowth of bermuda seems to have choked it out a bit. Also, when is it too late to overseed? Thank You! From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Wed Dec 5 20:11:55 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 13:11:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112052011.fB5KBtB07680@Ag.arizona.edu> My bouganvillias have many flowers but as these fall off there is a bare stem left. During warm time periods I understand you cut these stems off to promote more growth. Is there a concern cutting these stems off at this time period because of the cold and potential freeze at night. I live in the Mesa area, east side. Thanks you for your time. Ron From shanacoontz@citlink.net Wed Dec 5 22:16:49 2001 From: shanacoontz@citlink.net (Shana Coontz) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 15:16:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tucson vs. bullhead city? Message-ID: <007b01c17dda$f168bc00$a9cd43d8@shanacoontz> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C17D9F.DC5F7500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi all I have watched the discussion about Brookbank's "Desert Gardening", and = I wonder whether there are any obvious differences in climate or growing = conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, AZ. We are farther north = but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea level. Temperatures reach = 125 degrees during the summer. Is this less or more severe than Tucson? = And do Tucson yards consist of sand, the way mine does? The reason I = ask is that I have just ordered Brookbank's book, and I would like some = idea of what differences I may have to keep in mind. Thanks Shana Coontz --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.303 / Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01 ------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C17D9F.DC5F7500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi all

I have watched the discussion about = Brookbank's=20 "Desert Gardening", and I wonder whether there are any obvious = differences in=20 climate or growing conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, = AZ. We are=20 farther north but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea level. =20 Temperatures reach 125 degrees during the summer. Is this less or = more=20 severe than Tucson? And do Tucson yards consist of sand, the way = mine=20 does? The reason I ask is that I have just ordered = Brookbank's book,=20 and I would like some idea of what differences I may have to keep in=20 mind.

Thanks

Shana Coontz

---
Outgoing mail is certified = Virus=20 Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.303 /=20 Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C17D9F.DC5F7500-- From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Dec 5 23:35:58 2001 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cantaloupes Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready to be picked? I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in the desert! Michelle in Avondale ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 5 23:43:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 18:43:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass is spotty Message-ID: <18.16840982.29400b39@aol.com> --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation. Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation.

Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary-- From isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us Thu Dec 6 13:55:53 2001 From: isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us (isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:55:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112061355.fB6DtrB05949@Ag.arizona.edu> 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Dec 6 21:17:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 16:17:22 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Dec 6 22:26:51 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 15:26:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: <007201c17ea5$2d1d8ee0$ae51530c@j0r9501> The AZ Republic article paraphrases the Cooperative Extension's December "Timely Tips" recommendation at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/dec.htm which states: "Fertilize winter lawns monthly with ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate. Use 1/4 pound per 1,000 square feet as needed to maintain good color (usually once every three weeks)." Perhaps this "Timely Tip" should be clarified as Rod suggested to specify either actual nitrogen or the equivalent in ammonium nitrate. It may not be necessary to include potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate, neither of which is easy to find locally. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly ----- Original Message ----- From: >> I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds > of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. > > Good luck > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 6 21:27:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 14:27:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112052011.fB5KBtB07680@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I wouldn't cut anything off now for the just the reason you gave. I usually wait until March to start trimming again. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, but a Bougainvillea Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 1:12 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My bouganvillias have many flowers but as these fall off there is a bare stem left. During warm time periods I understand you cut these stems off to promote more growth. Is there a concern cutting these stems off at this time period because of the cold and potential freeze at night. I live in the Mesa area, east side. Thanks you for your time. Ron _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rubberducky55@aol.com Fri Dec 7 00:10:32 2001 From: Rubberducky55@aol.com (Rubberducky55@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 19:10:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT....what type Message-ID: --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project.... Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project....
Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary-- From paul_widman@hotmail.com Fri Dec 7 20:53:39 2001 From: paul_widman@hotmail.com (paul_widman@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:53:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Dec 7 21:53:30 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 14:53:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20011207144756.009ccf00@ag.arizona.edu> Paul, Ultrasonic pest control devices have been proven ineffective for pest control. Trapping and fumigants are still the most reliable for the control of pocket gophers. The urban integrated pest management web site for the University of Arizona continues to post research based information as they expand this resource. They have detailed information in the vertebrate pest section on gopher control. Take a look at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/pocketgophers.html I believe it will help you with your problems. Kind regards, Cathy At 01:53 PM 12/07/2001 -0700, paul_widman@hotmail.com wrote: >Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned >citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried >ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From DAnde25974@aol.com Sun Dec 9 05:33:44 2001 From: DAnde25974@aol.com (DAnde25974@aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 22:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? From jray59@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 16:35:35 2001 From: jray59@earthlink.net (jray59@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:35:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW BASIC CARE OF CUT MISTLETOE AND HOW TO PRESERVE THRU HOLIDAYS??? From johnacarver@yahoo.com Sun Dec 9 17:26:17 2001 From: johnacarver@yahoo.com (John Carver) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:26:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the base. There is a soft depression where that nail used to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. I would like to know if this problem is due to watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and with what material? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com From swoodr7697@aol.com Sun Dec 9 17:31:07 2001 From: swoodr7697@aol.com (swoodr7697@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:31:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091731.fB9HV7q23457@Ag.arizona.edu> where can i buy large quantity of 'tree seedlings' to create forest on 8 acres, carefree? which trees are most suitable/hardy for above zone (mountainous?)for large shade? thxs! sw From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 18:05:01 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:05:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... References: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002b01c180dc$06c02260$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi John! Queen palms do not do well in the low desert. They like acidic soils; we have alkaline soils. They like high humidity; we have low humidity. The hot dry winds tend to whip the fronds and they get wind burnt, which gives them a tattered look. They do not like the high heat or the cold that we have in the Valley. They are temperamental and very demanding and with the best of care, they still do not do well. The Queen Palm is a native of the Amazon tropics where the weather is not at all like we have Queen Palms are especially sensitive to manganese deficiency. Manganese deficiency (sometimes called frizzle top) manifests itself by producing new fronds that are stunted and deformed. This is a potentially fatal disease if left untreated. If it is determined that the tree is suffering from a manganese deficiency, manganese sulfate (Epsom salts) at the rate of two to four pounds per tree. This should be broadcast evenly under the canopy. DO NOT apply any closer to the trunk than twelve inches, if you do you could damage the root initiation zone. Here is a link to our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ10210'. Page 5 of this publication gives watering and fertilizing directions for palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Carver" To: Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 10:26 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... > I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the > groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never > reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and > there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the > fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous > owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the > base. There is a soft depression where that nail used > to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. > I would like to know if this problem is due to > watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I > treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and > with what material? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 18:53:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:53:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <4b.14f9dc20.29450d10@aol.com> --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, >From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment. Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically. Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John,

From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment.

Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically.

Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees:

http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 19:12:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 14:12:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <3b.1eafafec.294511b6@aol.com> --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary-- From pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com Sun Dec 9 19:24:47 2001 From: pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com (pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 12:24:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091924.fB9JOlq18393@Ag.arizona.edu> We are planning in putting in grass in a currently hard pack dirt area of our yard about 20 feet by 15 feet. What do we need to do to prepare the soil to lay sod. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 23:29:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 18:29:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, soil preparation Message-ID: --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary-- From dtb@uswestmail.net Mon Dec 10 04:19:44 2001 From: dtb@uswestmail.net (dtb@uswestmail.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:19:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112100419.fBA4Jiq02838@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to cover a 100 foot block wall that faces west with full sun. The wall is 10 foot from the pool area. Would some type of vines be practical? I don't have irrigation available. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:01:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:01:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Are ants the worms of the desert? References: <000001c17cee$bc484c80$5aaa3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C14B236.98F9CDC7@qwest.net> --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years. Also, I've dissimilar experience with the worms based on the microclimates of my beds. The ones that are more shaded particularly in the winter are teeming with very large worms very close to the surface of the soil which is exceedingly crumbly. So much so that it almost lasts the duration of the summer. The worms obviously go deeper in the heat of summer, less deep when there is some shade. Seems to be a function of shade/cool and consistent incorporation of organic matter. Linda Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of > organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less > extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where > there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my > gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most > of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What > I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same > aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb > texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course > there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years.

Also, I've dissimilar experience with the worms based on the microclimates of my beds. The ones that are more shaded particularly in the winter are teeming with very large worms very close to the surface of the soil which is exceedingly crumbly. So much so that it almost lasts the duration of the summer. The worms obviously go deeper in the heat of summer, less deep when there is some shade. Seems to be a function of shade/cool and consistent incorporation of organic matter.

Linda

Jonathan Kandell wrote:

Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk

--------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:07:36 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:07:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Brea Bark Damage References: <200111281719.fASHJdn26041@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C14B398.F68E40@qwest.net> Palos have a tendency to have split bark and ensuing scars. In her book Gardening in the Desert, Mary Irish suggests that this may be a result of overwatering or too much water being sprayed on the bark. This is a common occurrence and will usually heal with the cosmetic damage you've noted. Linda Guy, MG leshowitz@asu.edu wrote: > I have a Palo Brea tree three years of age that has throughout its trunk chunks of bark missing. In other areas there are limited scars that may turn into chunks of missing bark. I do not see any say pouring from these area, nor do I seen insects on the bark or in the vicinity of the tree. > The local nursery person believed it might be birds boring holes. Alternatively, I have been advised it might be boring beetles. > How should I treat this tree? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:21:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:21:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mountain Laurel References: Message-ID: <3C14B6EF.FF7C10A1@qwest.net> Basically, seeds in the desert can be washed across the landscape in a monsoon flood, being scarified by rocks and sand along the way which softens the outer coat. I don't have a specific recommendation for you, but people have tried nicking with files, shaking seeds in a jar with gravel, soaking in mild acid, soaking in water and of course, doing nothing. The acid is supposed to emulate the treatment a seed might receive in the gut track of an animal. Linda Guy, MG Larry Peterson wrote: > I want to plant Mountain Laurel from seeds. I noticed that someone asked > you about this and you said to "scarify the seeds" What does this mean? > How do I get them to germinate? > > Larry Peterson > MONICO, LLC > Ph.: 512 894 3600 > Fax: 512 8580325 > www.monicollc.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:24:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:24:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peppers in Containers References: <200112022351.fB2NpDa04801@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C14B77A.5ABC45A4@qwest.net> People grow vegetables quite successfully in containers. But I would suggest waiting a few months to plant peppers which are a warm season vegetable. Check out publications on vegetable gardening at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm particularly AZ 1005 [planting calendar] and 8141 [container gardening]. Linda Guy, MG jessyyeager@yahoo.com wrote: > Hello there Im very new to garding but wanted to try to grow peppers out of a pot is that possiable to do and how deep of a pot would I need. > > Thank you very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:28:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:28:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tucson vs. bullhead city? References: <007b01c17dda$f168bc00$a9cd43d8@shanacoontz> Message-ID: <3C14B86E.A07C3D73@qwest.net> --------------9B08D9D7EE7992FCDA1C20E3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You are probably closer to the weather conditions of Phoenix metro than Tucson. Tucson's temps are cooler. I also believe that Tucson's soil may tend more to clay, like ours in Phoenix. You will need copious quantities of organic matter for the purpose of raising the soil's ability to retain water. We add large quantities of organic matter to open up the dense clay. Linda Guy, MG Shana Coontz wrote: > Hi all I have watched the discussion about Brookbank's "Desert > Gardening", and I wonder whether there are any obvious differences in > climate or growing conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, AZ. > We are farther north but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea > level. Temperatures reach 125 degrees during the summer. Is this > less or more severe than Tucson? And do Tucson yards consist of sand, > the way mine does? The reason I ask is that I have just ordered > Brookbank's book, and I would like some idea of what differences I may > have to keep in mind. Thanks Shana Coontz > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.303 / Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01 --------------9B08D9D7EE7992FCDA1C20E3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You are probably closer to the weather conditions of Phoenix metro than Tucson. Tucson's temps are cooler. I also believe that Tucson's soil may tend more to clay, like ours in Phoenix. You will need copious quantities of organic matter for the purpose of raising the soil's ability to retain water. We add large quantities of organic matter to open up the dense clay.

Linda Guy, MG

Shana Coontz wrote:

Hi all I have watched the discussion about Brookbank's "Desert Gardening", and I wonder whether there are any obvious differences in climate or growing conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, AZ. We are farther north but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea level. Temperatures reach 125 degrees during the summer. Is this less or more severe than Tucson? And do Tucson yards consist of sand, the way mine does? The reason I ask is that I have just ordered Brookbank's book, and I would like some idea of what differences I may have to keep in mind. Thanks Shana Coontz
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.303 / Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01

--------------9B08D9D7EE7992FCDA1C20E3-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:32:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:32:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Kalanchoe References: Message-ID: <3C14B973.C1DA04BE@qwest.net> --------------B43B6C93D6B7A871461F7D14 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit There are so many types of kalanchoe and because I have no clue what your weather or soil conditions are in South Africa, could I suggest that you try to locate a similar function to ours in your country? An urban horticulture unit that advises home owners on gardening techniques suitable for the area. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Linda Guy, MG Phoenix, AZ, USA Micki Pelser wrote: > Hi Linda > > Not knowing much about my newly acquired garden, I was wondering if > you could help me. > > I live in Cape Town � South Africa and recently bought 3 kalanchoe > plants from my local nursery. > > The label says that the plants require full sunlight, sandy soil and > minimal watering, but from what I�ve found on the Internet these > plants seem to be better off indoors or at least out of direct > sunlight. > > Are the growing requirements different for different countries or > should I change nurseries? Can you help me please? > > Thank you > > Micki > --------------B43B6C93D6B7A871461F7D14 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit There are so many types of kalanchoe and because I have no clue what your weather or soil conditions are in South Africa, could I suggest that you try to locate a similar function to ours in your country? An urban horticulture unit that advises home owners on gardening techniques suitable for the area. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful.

Linda Guy, MG
Phoenix, AZ, USA

Micki Pelser wrote:

Hi Linda

Not knowing much about my newly acquired garden, I was wondering if you could help me.

I live in Cape Town � South Africa and recently bought 3 kalanchoe plants from my local nursery.
The label says that the plants require full sunlight, sandy soil and minimal watering, but from what I�ve found on the Internet these plants seem to be better off indoors or at least out of direct sunlight.
Are the growing requirements different for different countries or should I change nurseries? Can you help me please?

Thank you
Micki

--------------B43B6C93D6B7A871461F7D14-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:42:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:42:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vines References: <200112100419.fBA4Jiq02838@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C14BBBD.228D1E8@qwest.net> Most native vines will still require some periodic watering through the first summer to get established. You could do this with a hose. You also do not mention if you prefer an evergreen vine or would take a winter deciduous one. Finally, some choices might require trellising while others [like cats claw] can handle a wall on its own. Queen's wreath, yellow orchid vine, lavender orchid vine, Arizona grape and snapdragon vines are all good options. You can order our publication on vines [MC-30] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy, MG dtb@uswestmail.net wrote: > I would like to cover a 100 foot block wall > that faces west with full sun. The wall is 10 > foot from the pool area. > > Would some type of vines be practical? I don't > have irrigation available. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dbmurray@msn.com Mon Dec 10 23:22:57 2001 From: dbmurray@msn.com (dbmurray@msn.com) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 16:22:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112102322.fBANMv904052@Ag.arizona.edu> I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach? From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Dec 11 15:07:43 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 07:07:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach In-Reply-To: <200112102322.fBANMv904052@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <20011211150743.64952.qmail@web14708.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1631486313-1008083263=:63508 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main ingredient. Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it kills a plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of bleach that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have a large concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want to expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know of? Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener) dbmurray@msn.com wrote: I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctionsfor all of your holiday gifts! --0-1631486313-1008083263=:63508 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main ingredient. Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it kills a plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of bleach that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have a large concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want to expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know of?

Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)

dbmurray@msn.com wrote:

I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your holiday gifts! --0-1631486313-1008083263=:63508-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Dec 11 15:34:36 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:34:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Houseplant Gnats] Message-ID: <3C16278C.6D8F5799@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------EACBE226E8485DDE767BB46C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have seen the use of highly diluted bleach solutions for treatment of fungus gnats in container plants. Here's a fellow MG's recipes. --------------EACBE226E8485DDE767BB46C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from smtp03.primenet.com (smtp03.primenet.com [206.165.6.133]) by primenet.com (8.8.8/8.8.5) with ESMTP id KAA13362 for ; Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:20:49 -0700 (MST) Received: (from daemon@localhost) by smtp03.primenet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id KAA19481 for ; Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:20:22 -0700 (MST) Received: from pimout3-ext.prodigy.net(207.115.63.102), claiming to be "pimout3-int.prodigy.net" via SMTP by smtp03.primenet.com, id smtpdAAA_Za48L; Mon Apr 3 10:20:12 2000 Received: from 0016164664 (PHNXA010-1065.splitrock.net [209.254.234.49]) by pimout3-int.prodigy.net (8.8.5/8.8.5) with SMTP id NAA33998 for ; Mon, 3 Apr 2000 13:20:43 -0400 Message-ID: <000401bf9d90$d95c0080$31eafed1@0016164664> From: "Pauline Marx" To: "Linda A. Guy" References: <38E8BCEC.515DDC7F@primenet.com> Subject: Re: [AG] Houseplant Gnats Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 10:20:01 -0700 Organization: Prodigy Internet MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.00.2615.200 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2615.200 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach The procedure is the same for both. Pauline Marx Maricopa County AZ Master Gardener Intern Former NC Master Gardener --------------EACBE226E8485DDE767BB46C-- From ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu Tue Dec 11 16:22:10 2001 From: ckjones@Ag.arizona.edu (Chris Jones) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 09:22:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach In-Reply-To: <20011211150743.64952.qmail@web14708.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000a01c1825f$fcd36160$271910ac@Gilacounty> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C18225.50748960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm sure a chemist would have a better answer, but bleach is a basic material, meaning it is extremely alkaline. At high concentrations (ie, straight from the bottle), it is caustic and will simply burn the plant just as it would your skin or put holes in your clothes. At lower concentrations, it will probably have the effect of making the growing meduim more alkaline making required nutrients less available. However, it is highly soluble and low concentrations (ie pool water/valley tap!) it should leach out fairly quickly. I would also expect symptoms of salt burn if it doesn't leach out sufficiently. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (520) 425-7179 FAX: (520) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Barbara Cenalmor Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:08 AM To: dbmurray@msn.com Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main ingredient. Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it kills a plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of bleach that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have a large concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want to expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know of? Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener) dbmurray@msn.com wrote: I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your holiday gifts! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C18225.50748960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm=20 sure a chemist would have a better answer, but bleach is a basic = material,=20 meaning it is extremely alkaline. At high concentrations (ie, straight = from the=20 bottle), it is caustic and will simply burn the plant just as it would = your skin=20 or put holes in your clothes. At lower concentrations, it will probably = have the=20 effect of making the growing meduim more alkaline making required = nutrients less=20 available. However, it is highly soluble and low concentrations (ie = pool=20 water/valley tap!) it should leach out fairly quickly. I would also = expect=20 symptoms of salt burn if it doesn't leach out sufficiently. =

Christopher Jones, Extension Agent =
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs =

The University of Arizona =
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177=20 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ = 85501=20

Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail:=20 ckjones@ag.arizona.edu

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Barbara = Cenalmor
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:08 = AM
To:=20 dbmurray@msn.com
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 Re: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach

Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main = ingredient. =20 Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it = kills a=20 plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in = chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of = bleach=20 that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have = a large=20 concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want = to=20 expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know = of?=20
Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)=20
dbmurray@msn.com wrote:=20 I=20 want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also = want to=20 know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to=20 = bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_ga= rdener=20 mailing=20 = list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/lis= tinfo/arid_gardener

Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo!=20 Shopping and Yahoo!=20 Auctions for all of your holiday gifts! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C18225.50748960-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 13:53:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 06:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime trees References: <000401c17a94$42029ae0$8ce3fea9@5s3iy> Message-ID: <3C176168.F2491686@qwest.net> Mr. Bishop, Here is a reply from Dr. Glenn Wright who is the citrus specialist at UA. I had asked him some questions about citrus coloring, in general, as it related to temperature, as well as your specific inquiry. Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. Linda Guy, MG Leonard Bishop wrote: > Can anyone tell me why bears limes turn yellow in late November? Is it > because it is not fertilized properly or is it a natural function of the > tree. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 14:21:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:21:54 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees]] Message-ID: <3C176802.22D0A711@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dr. Glenn Wright gave me a brief tutorial on citrus coloring which I thought you'd all appreciate. Thanks Dr. Glenn! --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 20626 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail4.uswest.net) (63.226.138.4) by mpls-mailin-03.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: (qmail 34244 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO Ag.arizona.edu) (150.135.40.100) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from Lemonhead.ag.arizona.edu (Lemon.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.3]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.10.2+Sun/8.11.2) with ESMTP id fBBFuw922559 for ; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20011211085631.03680ec0@127.0.0.1> From: "Glenn C. Wright" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: gwright/ag.arizona.edu@127.0.0.1 X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1 Subject: Re: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees] In-Reply-To: <3C14AD02.44B61FDC@qwest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 At 05:39 AM 12/10/2001 -0700, you wrote: >This is one example of a few we've be getting apropos citrus coloring, >timing thereof, color as an indication of ripeness [I thought it was an >indication of cold hours, based on an article Lucy published in the >Republic some time ago]. Can you give me a little tutorial which would >probably be great to share on the arid gardener server as well. Your >time permitting, of course. > >Thanks in advance. > >Linda >Hi Linda: > >You are correct in assuming that citrus change color in relation to >temperature. When air and soil temperatures drop below 15C (59F), >chlorophyll is degraded, and chloroplasts in the peel are converted to >chromoplasts which contain yellow, orange or red pigments. This may not >necessarily be a direct effect of temperature as it is entirely possible >that the cool temperatures affect the roots, which in turn affect >production of plant hormones located there, which then are transported >upwards and initiate the degradation process in the peels. Lemons, for >example are artificially colored in the packinghouse using the gaseous >plant hormone ethylene. It is also well known that pre-harvest >applications of gibberellins will retard coloration. > >Tree vigor also affects peel coloration. Vigorously growing trees, or >trees that have been heavily fertilized with nitrogen, will have poorer >coloration than slower growing trees. > >Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. > >Thanks for asking. > >GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Dec 13 00:01:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: palm info References: Message-ID: <3C17EFC2.A8CEE4A9@qwest.net> I would try again. Sometimes the server is down. If you still cannot access it, you can go to the top of the publications page, you will see instructions for requesting a copy by mail. Linda Guy, MG Elaine Hegstrom wrote: > My neighborhood is interested in transplanting some free palms. i tried to access the palm info, but could not. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf > > How can I get this info? > > Elaine Hegstrom > 328 N. Country club > Tucson 85716 From dwsmyers@msn.com Fri Dec 14 15:19:30 2001 From: dwsmyers@msn.com (dwsmyers@msn.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112141519.fBEFJU922856@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me someone to contact? Thanks, Dan From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 14 23:47:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:47:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, grapefruit not thriving Message-ID: I would check the trunk at the ground level. Make sure that the trunk is not in contact with soil -- this can happen over time as soil washes in around the tree. You should see lateral roots an inch or so below the surface -- if you have to dig deeper, pull the extra soil out away from the trunk. Keep the trunk free of dirt and avoid prolonged contact with water. Let us know if this doesn't appear to be a problem with your grapefruit tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dwsmyers@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing >well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that >has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing >and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the >bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me >someone to contact? Thanks, Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 15 21:07:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:07:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Raywood Ash Message-ID: <173.d27e62.294d158d@aol.com> --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary-- From jennaz31@aol.com Sun Dec 16 01:04:00 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:04:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions: The first is about my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? Second, I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. Thanks for your help. Jenn From s2@arcworldwide.com Sun Dec 16 01:50:57 2001 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1BFE01.E3C935BB@auroranow.org> Hi gardeners, Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got a bit too frostbitten. I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how to handle the damage on these: lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with several completely browned branches/dead leaves) Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are flopped. I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as well. Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From cmiliti7@aol.com Sun Dec 16 07:21:34 2001 From: cmiliti7@aol.com (cmiliti7@aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 02:21:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] wasps and grapes Message-ID: --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps? corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps?
corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 17 00:08:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 00:08:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... Message-ID: Yes, it has certainly been chilly the last week or so. Sounds like you already know what to do -- leave the damaged plants alone until growth begins again in the spring. Then you will be able to see how extensive the frost damage is. The frozen parts also help to protect growth underneath -- we can expect at least a couple more cold nights this week, before the warming begins at the end of the week. Not sure there is anything you can do for the aloe and cactus -- just watch and see how much damage they have sustained. Linda Drew Master Gardener (Tucson) >From: Sherryl Stalinski >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... >Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 > >Hi gardeners, >Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace >and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. > >Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside >Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got >a bit too frostbitten. > >I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so >the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how >to handle the damage on these: > >lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) >yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open >and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with >several completely browned branches/dead leaves) > >Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one >planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. > >What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with >a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are >flopped. > >I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as >well. > >Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my >buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. > >I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Vice President, Communications & Technology >ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com >Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >===================================================== >"I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 17 22:16:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:16:08 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Roses Message-ID: <176.eaf03b.294fc8a8@aol.com> --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn, If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially. As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn,

If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially.
As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary-- From bethskoff@aol.com Tue Dec 18 03:05:22 2001 From: bethskoff@aol.com (bethskoff@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:05:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Dec 18 03:23:11 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo not leafing out References: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000501c18773$53d8f200$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The normal state for an ocotillo is "no leaves". If you bought a bare root plant, it can exist for up to two years before it re-roots. Roots need to grow in its new location before it leafs out. Have patience. it was 17 months before the bare root Ocotillo I planted had leaves. If you look at the swollen part just above the roots it will show some green underneath and/or between the bark furrows if it is still alive Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From Ranger1242@aol.com Tue Dec 18 12:58:09 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:58:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 13:23:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 06:23:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Problem ID References: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F4360.9910BE6B@qwest.net> Could it be possible that it is a type of scale? To read up on treatment options for this miniscule pest on the UA's Urban Pest Management website, consult: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/scaleinsects.html Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 18 16:21:36 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:21:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Green Tomatoes/Cecile Brunner Clmbing Rose References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c187e0$fd54c620$9d51530c@j0r9501> In the low desert, if your tomatoes are still green they will most likely not change color until about February when the days become longer and the daytime temps are warmer. Meanwhile, you will need to protect the plants from frost. We have a few plants in containers that are beginning to ripen very slowly but the tomatoes out in the garden are still very green. A Google search turns up lots of sites about Cecile Brunner but none seem to address your specific questions. We have a number of experienced rosarians on this list who will, hopefully, respond to those questions. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >... >... my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? > >...I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:49:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:49:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preserving mistletoe References: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9DDB.75FCDB60@qwest.net> I found some information on preserving mistletoe on the Net. You can view this PDF file by going to: http://hgic.clemson.edu/PDF/HGIC1151.pdf Sue Bass > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:52:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Corn and Sunflowers together References: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9E7C.963A67F9@qwest.net> You can view an archived answer to a previous question about planting sunflowers and corn together at the following link to our archives: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003819.html Sue Bass DAnde25974@aol.com wrote: > Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:54:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:54:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to tell when cantaloupes are ripe References: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3C1F9F07.48020FF1@qwest.net> You can view a response to a similar question on how to tell when cantaloupes are ripe by going to our archives. The following link will take you directly to the previous response on this subject: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-September/008727.html Sue Bass Michelle B wrote: > I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" > diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready > to be picked? > > I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have > found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in > the desert! > > Michelle in Avondale > ****************************************** > We Hate Snoring > http://www.wehatesnoring.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Dec 19 00:06:03 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (steve.sheard@motorola.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:06:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112190006.fBJ063n14185@Ag.arizona.edu> I hear that trees are a roses worst enemy, because of shade and because their roots invade the rose's roots. How do I plant a climbing rose if I want it to grow into a tree? I am considering Mermaid into a Chinese Elm tree. From lbradley@sisna.com Tue Dec 18 18:10:03 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011218110137.01db9e90@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information Daniel Salzler No. 97 azwatershed@aol.com December 14, 2001 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Fifteen Items<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< 6. Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes hate the aroma of common garden catnip (Nepeta cataria), new research shows. And not only are the extracts safe, they are more effective than Diethyl-m-toluamide, or DEET, the chemical used in most commercial insect repellents. Catnip is one of several plants used in folk medicine to ward off insects, but most people turn to DEET when they want serious deterrence. Now researchers at Iowa State University, Ames, have shown that a relatively weak solution of catnip extract repels mosquitoes as effectively as a DEET solution ten times more concentrated. "We haven't yet tested whether it will work against mosquitoes when on human skin," says Coats. "But our results are directly relevant to repellency on things like clothing and tents." "Anything that is as good or better than DEET is welcome, because DEET has some side effects,"says Ribeiro. DEET is classified as "moderately toxic" by EPA and can harm birds, fish and aquatic invertebrates. However, the EPA believes it does not present a health concern to the general US population. For more information, go online to http://www.newscientist.com/news/news.jsp?id=ns99991199 . Important Christmas Tree Safety Tips If your Christmas tree is live or cut: * Select only fresh trees. Look for one that is green, and that has needles that bend and not break. The needles should be hard to pull off of the branches. * As soon as the tree is brought home, saw off no more than one inch of the trunk and place the tree in a sturdy water holding stand. * Make sure the stand is kept full of water so that it does not dry out. * Stand your tree away from fireplaces, radiators, televisions and other heat sources. * Only use indoor lights on your tree, check lights to see that the cords and connections are in good working order. Be careful not to use more than three light sets per extension cord. Unplug lights when going to bed or when leaving home. Copyright d. salzler. 2001 -------------------------------------------------- Colleagues: if you would like to receive this newsletter as a pdf file, please request: <> From mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu Wed Dec 19 19:36:13 2001 From: mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu (mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:36:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112191936.fBJJaDn04822@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting black table grapes in a Phoenix garden. What varieties are recommended and where ccan I purchase them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 19 21:37:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:37:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree Message-ID: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve, One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. Good luck. Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve,

One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea.

Good luck.

Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary-- From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 22:30:21 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:30:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that would hurt the tree or not. -- A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Steve, > > One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the > pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the > rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's > feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose > might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' > ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. > > Good luck. > > Rod From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 23:00:01 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:00:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> Message-ID: <3C211BF1.6DB8C287@home.com> I should clarify...I'm talking about the black nursery buckets for putting plants in. You can get them at Lowes, or...I have a couple of extra's. I would be willing to donate one to the cause, if you are interested Steve. -- Errymay ristmaschay andway appyhay ewnay earyay." - Pig Latin Christmas ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! GizmoAZ wrote: > What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the > ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted > the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from > becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some > roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that > would hurt the tree or not. > -- > A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. > ----- > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull > moment!! > Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! > From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Dec 19 23:47:59 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <006601c188e8$db8c9be0$3e50530c@j0r9501> We have a Lady Banks planted about 7 feet southeast of the trunk of an African sumac tree. It was about at the edge of the canopy when we planted it a some years ago but now is well under the tree. We had planned to train it on an arbor (like Tucson) but while we weren't watching it took off up into the tree and now most of the rose's foliage is in the tree, probably trying to grow toward the light source. Kinda messy looking. So I would think the lack of light would be a greater concern than root competition. But it would probably also depend on the type of tree and its root system. Olin From lbradley@sisna.com Thu Dec 20 00:56:56 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:56:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Farmers Markets and You Pick Farms Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011219175457.01e54b28@ag.arizona.edu> >* A new printed revision of the listing of direct marketers of fresh >fruits and vegetables in Maricopa County is available from their office at >4341 E Broadway Rd, Phoenix. The updated edition lists 15 community >farmers markets and 19 direct seller of produce located from Wickenberg to >Queen Creek. Or on the web at > From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:10:06 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:10:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211710.fBLHA6n28289@Ag.arizona.edu> From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:14:18 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:14:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211714.fBLHEIn29015@Ag.arizona.edu> re Queen Palms Help! watering needs all seasons as well as fertilizing etc., for Chandler, AZ also, how do I retrieve your publication? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Dec 21 18:17:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:17:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care Message-ID: <154.6249c60.2954d6a7@aol.com> --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Fri Dec 21 19:09:19 2001 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:09:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <20011221190919.39673.qmail@web13808.mail.yahoo.com> I have planted eight Ficus trees along my back wall with the intention of completely hiding the wall. They are planted 15 ft apart. They are doing quite well after 3yrs but they still do not meet together to cover the wall. Would it help or hurt the health of tree to "top" them in order to encourage lateral growth instead of upward growth? Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com From vinham@aol.com Fri Dec 21 20:52:44 2001 From: vinham@aol.com (vinham@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:52:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Information on plants to attract humming birds From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Dec 21 21:12:38 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:12:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hummingbirds References: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C23A5C6.5DD94506@qwest.net> U of A Publication AZ1100, which you can view by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers has a chart which shows which flowering plants are attractive to hummingbirds. Hummingbirds are attracted to tubular shaped flowers, particularly red and orange flowers. Don't forget a water source. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water. There are drippers available that you can add to your birdbath that will entice birds. Another good site is found at: http://portalproductions.com/h/ It is called the Hummingbird Web Site. You can click on the option "Gardens", then choose gardens for your region. Sue Bass Master Gardener > Information on plants to attract humming birds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 22 00:17:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:17:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <117.9cf02f9.29552b25@aol.com> --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth. Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth.
Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary-- From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sat Dec 22 19:08:05 2001 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants In-Reply-To: <153.3bbd8ad.291d38f8@aol.com> Message-ID: Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of them? Thanks a bunch!! Jackee From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 22:01:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:01:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants Message-ID: Here is an answer from Master Gardener Linda Guy regarding houseplant of fungus gnats. You need to eliminate the larvae in the soil; treating the adults has little success: Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: "Edward & Jackee De Alejandro" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants >Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 > >Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my >houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of >them? > >Thanks a bunch!! > >Jackee > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From dmkerr2@home.com Sun Dec 23 13:00:29 2001 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:00:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangor Message-ID: <004001c18bb1$cc3a9c70$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in = Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo = (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something = sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. Good = size and few seeds are desirable. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Are there varieties of tangor = (tangerine/orange)=20 cross available in Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with = Mineola=20 tangelo (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like = something=20 sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than = an=20 orange. Good size and few seeds are = desirable.

------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00-- From l.musulin@worldnet.att.net Sun Dec 23 17:47:09 2001 From: l.musulin@worldnet.att.net (lori musulin) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 09:47:09 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need Help - Lemon Tree Naked CA Message-ID: <000a01c18bd9$da3735e0$ee04490c@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C18B96.C9E26FE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear Gardener =20 My Lemon tree is bare of any foliage and has about 12 lemons/not ripe = and NO signs of budding, which by now I can see. In the summer of this = year I sprayed with Malathion. Did I kill it? Thanks for the info Lori South Bay - CA ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C18B96.C9E26FE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Gardener =

My Lemon tree is bare of any foliage = and has about=20 12 lemons/not ripe and NO signs of budding, which by now I can see. = In the=20 summer of this year I sprayed with Malathion. Did I kill = it?

Thanks for the info

Lori

South Bay - CA

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C18B96.C9E26FE0-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 23 18:55:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 13:55:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need Help - Lemon Tree Naked CA Message-ID: <114.9c90595.295782be@aol.com> --part1_114.9c90595.295782be_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Malathion is an insecticide and if applied according to label instruction should not be the cause of leaf drop on citrus. The cause is more than likely due to a rapid change of temperature or inadequate irrigation. As temperatures warm in the coming months your tree should again leaf out. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_114.9c90595.295782be_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Malathion is an insecticide and if applied according to label instruction should not be the cause of leaf drop on citrus. The cause is more than likely due to a rapid change of temperature or inadequate irrigation. As temperatures warm in the coming months your tree should again leaf out.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_114.9c90595.295782be_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Dec 23 19:17:41 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:17:41 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, lemon tree lost leaves Message-ID: Lori, Lemon trees are evergreen (keep green leaves all year round). Since yours has lost all its leaves, something is wrong. Contact your local County Cooperative Extension Office for help; the number should be in the county pages of the telephone book. Malathion kills insects, not plants, so I would suspect a problem with care -- water, fertilizing, frost protection, etc. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "lori musulin" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Need Help - Lemon Tree Naked CA >Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 09:47:09 -0800 > >Dear Gardener >My Lemon tree is bare of any foliage and has about 12 lemons/not ripe and >NO signs of budding, which by now I can see. In the summer of this year I >sprayed with Malathion. Did I kill it? >Thanks for the info >Lori >South Bay - CA > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 24 00:14:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 17:14:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangor References: <004001c18bb1$cc3a9c70$328e0541@cx89858a> Message-ID: <3C267354.1FDDED9@qwest.net> --------------71A9B5763962774CF6BF3996 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You might first consult our publication on citrus varieties that do particularly well in Maricopa County at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Look for AZ 1001. Another very good resource is Greenfield Citrus in Mesa, whose website is http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, MG Kerr Family wrote: > Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in > Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo > (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something > sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. > Good size and few seeds are desirable. --------------71A9B5763962774CF6BF3996 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You might first consult our publication on citrus varieties that do particularly well in Maricopa County at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm
Look for AZ 1001. Another very good resource is Greenfield Citrus in Mesa, whose website is http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm

Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG

Kerr Family wrote:

Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. Good size and few seeds are desirable.

--------------71A9B5763962774CF6BF3996-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 24 01:03:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 18:03:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Table Grapes References: <200112191936.fBJJaDn04822@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C267EEB.6D471B01@qwest.net> Our publication on grapes for the homeowner [MC 59] can be ordered at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm The publication states that Thompson seedless, Flame seedless, Black Monukka and Perlette are good eating grapes or for making raisins. Cardinal and Exotic are also used fresh or for jelly. Concord can also perform acceptably. The pub is a good overview of grape growing here, too. I haven't grown grapes here in AZ, so I'd suggest you'd start your search by consutling your favorite nurseries. Good luck! Linda Guy, MG mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu wrote: > I am interested in planting black table grapes in a Phoenix garden. What varieties are recommended and where ccan I purchase them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 24 01:09:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 18:09:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardening in Lake Havasu References: <6d.1f7a4fe1.2953dcee@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C268054.2ECF7D0F@qwest.net> We write and answer questions mainly on gardening in the area around Phoenix. Our answers may be close, but are not always entirely pertinent to the Lake Havasu area which I believe is hotter and can have sections of sandy soil [ours is more apt to be clay]. I would suggest that you contact our counterparts [Master Gardeners] at your new county's cooperative extension office, whose number you can find in the government listings of the phone book. Or try http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Our Maricopa County website is also good resource for you to consult http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Good luck! Linda Guy, MG TJeans5@aol.com wrote: > Linda, My family and I will be moving to Lake havasu in a year or so. We are > trying to get back closer to family and freinds in San Diego. We have been in > Denver for ten years and leaving Point Loma to come here has been a real > culture shock trying to grow anything. I cant wait to get back to a no-freeze > zone but I understand Lake Havasu is to hot for many plants. Can you please > end me some names of plants that are semi-tropical looking as in all > available palms plants trees, (fruit) etc. Even in Phoenix years ago we grew > great Queen Palms. My back yard in San Diego had Grapefruit, orange, loquat, > fig, bananas, Idonisian papayas, rasberries, giant bird of paradise, > travelers palms, etc. Here in Denver I have a pear, peach and apple tree all > of which never produce. > look forwrd to hearing from you soon. > Thanks Jim From gwjinaz@aol.com Mon Dec 24 02:56:39 2001 From: gwjinaz@aol.com (gwjinaz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:56:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112240256.fBO2udn06775@Ag.arizona.edu> need infor on preventing damage from rabbits and a list of plants that rabbits stay away from and list of plants that they love Have heard of chemical Repel and moth balls but have not tried them thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 24 21:39:51 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 21:39:51 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] rabbits and plants Message-ID: If rqabbits are hungry enough, they will eat almost anything. Here are a few earlier responses to similar questions: Hi all, I live in Tucson. I have found that bunnies will eat my Dalea greggi and Penstemon, both of which showed up in the rabbit-resistent list. I have good luck against bunnies with Mt. Lemmon Marigold, Cleveland Sage, Zauschneria californica, and hopbush. My bad luck list is longer. They have eaten Texas Mountain Laurel, Kidneywood, Agarita, Thistle (the spiky one with pink flowers), Quail Bush, Dyssodia, Red Hesperaloe, Penstemon Parrii, Brittlebush, Mimosa dysocarpa, and Dalea Greggi. I have hungry bunnies! -- Lisa Bryan Jim - I tried the bloodmeal, too, and it worked but it has its drawbacks, doesn't it? Mine got washed away when it rained (it was unusually rainy at the time) and soaked into the dirt with irrigation. Also didn't look so great. I also tried a bloodmeal/tobacco mix that I bought. Same problem and it made the area smell like a smoke shop. Squirted plants with soap water. The soap left a white residue on the leaves which looked lousy. Squirted plants with various mixtures of water and pepper, hot sauce, etc. Rabbits liked it!!! Laid garlic around the plants. Kept me away, as well as the rabbits. I've read that you can put dog hair or human hair among your plants to keep rabbits away. But I decided that I have to draw the line somewhere. Next thing you know, I'll be trying to pound stakes into the plants' hearts! Ursula -----Original Message----- From: JAcuff2612@aol.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Friday, April 09, 1999 2:47 PM Subject: Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Try the gopher plant, the rabbits don't appear tp like it. A caution, if you >cut it , please do not let the milky saplike material get into your eyes. It >is very painful. >Also, have you tried spreading bloodmeal. I tried it once before I made the >an area inaccessible to the rabbits and it worked. Jim. I live in the Phoenix area. The following is a list I've compiled from various sources. The ones on the bottom with the * are ones that I have personally found to be rabbit-resistant. You can also check out the following site on the internet which lists a number of plants (some of which are also on my list): http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit1.htm Carissa species Centaurea species Dalea greggii Euryops pentinatus Fallugia paradoxa Gelsemium sempervirens Myoporum species Macfadeana unguis-cacti Nandina domestica Nierembergia species Nerium oleander Rhapiolepsis species Santolina species Thymus species Westringia rosmarinifolia Achillea (yellow flowered varieties) Aquilegia (columbine) Artemisia (sage) Digitalis (foxglove) Gaillardia (firewheel) Origanum (oregano) Oxytropis (locoweed) Yucca Zinnia grandiflora Carytopteris (blue mist spiraea) Chrysothamnus (chamisa) Falugia (apache plume) Pervoskia (russian sage) Marigolds* Pomegranate* (Mine is the miniature variety - nana. It's a great little hardy bush with bright green leaves and orange flowers almost year-round. Doesn't freeze easily. Likes sun.) Natal Plum* Verbena* Mexican bird of paradise* Geranium* Penstemons* Plumbago* Rosmarinus (rosemary)* Salvia species* (I love these flowers because they love the desert sun and come in wonderful blue, red and purple colors) Vinca major* Lavandula (lavender)* (I?ve found that rabbits will eat the flower stalks of multifida (Canary Island Lavender) but not the leaves. They don?t eat the stalks of any of the other lavenders I have. However, Canary Island lavender is such a wide plant that the rabbits only get at the flower stalks around the perimeter of the plant; so it?s still a very pretty colorful plant even after the nibbling) Fairy Duster* Bottlebrush (callistemon)* Cape Honeysuckle (tecomaria capensis)* Yellow Bells (tecoma stans)* If you can't find these plants at local nurseries, some are available through the High Country Gardens catalog. I believe you can order the catalog from the www.highcountrygardens.com internet site or you can call them at 1-800-925-9387. They specialize in western plants and have a wonderful catalog that provides information like water usage, heat/sun tolerance, hummingbird/butterfly attraction, etc. So far, I've found them to be the best supplier of the various types of lavender, penstemon, salvia, rosemary. These four plants come in many varieties with varying sizes and colors. They are easy to grow, like the sun, need minimal water, and provide nice color. (Lavender is somewhat susceptible to freezing in the winter but comes back in the spring.) I hope this helps. It has been a frustrating and costly learning process for me. But I think I've come out the winner in the bunny wars. Or, if things get really bad, you can bring home a coyote. Ursula >From: gwjinaz@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 19:56:39 -0700 (MST) > > need infor on preventing damage from rabbits and a list of plants that >rabbits stay away from and list of plants that they love Have heard of >chemical Repel and moth balls but have not tried them thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From ramaganes@dakotacom.net Mon Dec 24 22:56:22 2001 From: ramaganes@dakotacom.net (ramaganes@dakotacom.net) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2001 15:56:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112242256.fBOMuMn14396@Ag.arizona.edu> I am new to Arizona lawn maintenance. Please let me know of a good source to help me grow and maintain a summer and winter lawn. thanks Rama Ganesan From DARRELLONEAL@msn.com Tue Dec 25 17:06:16 2001 From: DARRELLONEAL@msn.com (DARRELL O'NEAL) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:06:16 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] root stock Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C18D23.68DA6700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Lately I have been experimenting in tree grafting, (mostly Citrus), and w= as wondering where I might find a source for "root-stock". Buying establ= ished nursery trees in 5 gallon buckets can become expensive. Thank you, Darrell O'Neal (Glendale, AZ) ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C18D23.68DA6700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Lately I have = been experimenting in tree grafting, (mostly Citrus), and was wondering w= here I might find a source for "root-stock". Buying established nur= sery trees in 5 gallon buckets can become expensive.

Than= k you, Darrell O'Neal (Glendale, AZ)

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C18D23.68DA6700-- From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Dec 25 16:31:06 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2001 09:31:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn maintenance References: <200112242256.fBOMuMn14396@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001601c18d61$8d93c3a0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi Rama, Here is a link to our publications dealing with all aspects of lawn care. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn These publications are available at no cost to you if you pick them up at any of our offices. Our Master Gardener manual is on line and has an extensive section dealing with lawn preparation and maintenance. Here is the link to the index of our manual. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/mg_links.html Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 24, 2001 3:56 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I am new to Arizona lawn maintenance. Please let me know of a good source to help me grow and maintain a summer and winter lawn. > thanks > > Rama Ganesan > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Dec 27 01:51:16 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:51:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] polymers? Message-ID: <002401c18e79$7e292fe0$19ab3604@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C18E3E.4CB60B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Wondered what people's thought/experiences with polymers in arid = climates... e.g. www.watersorb.com jk ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C18E3E.4CB60B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wondered what people's thought/experiences with = polymers=20 in arid climates...

e.g. www.watersorb.com

------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C18E3E.4CB60B80-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Dec 27 15:11:03 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 15:11:03 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] polymers? Message-ID: I don't have firsthand experience. I have heard the polymers help in containers but are not effective in beds. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Jonathan Kandell" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] polymers? >Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:51:16 -0700 > >Wondered what people's thought/experiences with polymers in arid >climates... > >e.g. www.watersorb.com > >jk _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From bolt@hotmail.com Thu Dec 27 18:22:29 2001 From: bolt@hotmail.com (bolt@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:22:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112271822.fBRIMTn04035@Ag.arizona.edu> I'd like to plant a sound/wind break made up of pine trees. Can you suggest a pine tree that would grow dense enough to accomplish this? Thanks, Kevin Queen Creek, AZ Maricopa County From jkandell@twistedclicks.com Thu Dec 27 20:46:04 2001 From: jkandell@twistedclicks.com (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 13:46:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] polymers? References: Message-ID: <004601c18f17$a40511e0$8ba20404@oemcomputer> I wonder if the person who you're basing that on used the wrong side. In containers you use polymer powder, but use a medium to large size in beds. (The powder disintegrates too soon, apparently, in the ground.) Wonder if anyone here has first hand experience. ----- Original Message ----- From: Linda Drew To: ; Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2001 8:11 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] polymers? > > I don't have firsthand experience. I have heard the polymers > help in containers but are not effective in beds. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > >From: "Jonathan Kandell" > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] polymers? > >Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2001 18:51:16 -0700 > > > >Wondered what people's thought/experiences with polymers in arid > >climates... > > > >e.g. www.watersorb.com > > > >jk > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: > http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx > > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Dec 28 00:04:24 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 19:04:24 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pine Tree wind break Message-ID: <147.6f7d3f3.295d1108@aol.com> --part1_147.6f7d3f3.295d1108_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kevin, There are two pines that do well here in the valley. My preference is Eldarica mainly because of its pyramidal shape. The pines on the perimeter of the amphitheater at Central Christian Church are Eldaricas. Aleppo might be a better choice for a screen since its shape is more rounded than Eldarica and it is probably the best adapted pine for the desert. Didn't know that you lived in Queen Creek. See you at the next club meeting. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_147.6f7d3f3.295d1108_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Kevin,

There are two pines that do well here in the valley. My preference is Eldarica mainly because of its pyramidal shape. The pines on the perimeter of the amphitheater at Central Christian Church are Eldaricas.
Aleppo might be a better choice for a screen since its shape is more rounded than Eldarica and it is probably the best adapted pine for the desert.
Didn't know that you lived in Queen Creek.
See you at the next club meeting.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_147.6f7d3f3.295d1108_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 28 00:15:43 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 00:15:43 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] windbreak, evergeen pine Message-ID: The Southwest Tree Seedling Program lists the following evergreens as suitable for windbreaks below 5000' elevation: Eldarica pine (Pinus eldarica) Arizona cypress (Cupressus arizonica) Austrian pine (Pinus nigra) Pinyon pine (pinus edulis) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: bolt@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 11:22:29 -0700 (MST) > >I'd like to plant a sound/wind break made up of pine trees. Can you >suggest a pine tree that would grow dense enough to accomplish this? > >Thanks, >Kevin >Queen Creek, AZ >Maricopa County > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_ _________________________________________________________________ Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 27 22:20:54 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 15:20:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and Frost Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C18EEA.13A29C80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I know that now is a good time to plant roses in the Phoenix area, but does this mean that frost isn�t an issue with them? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C18EEA.13A29C80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I know = that now is a good time to plant roses in the Phoenix area, but does this mean that = frost isn=92t an issue with them?

Ursula Miller

<= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C18EEA.13A29C80-- From nlfisher001@yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 14:17:00 2001 From: nlfisher001@yahoo.com (nlfisher001@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:17:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281417.fBSEH0n15206@Ag.arizona.edu> what month should lemon trees be pruned and how should you prune them. thank you From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 28 15:25:39 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 15:25:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, pruning Message-ID: Here are some earlier responses to your question: Young trees are pruned sparingly, removing sucker dead limbs are also removed. Allow a young tree to grow a few seasons before trying to achieve symmetry, which it will with age. If you take off the leaves that fuel the tree's production capability, you're limiting your crop. Wait until frost threat is gone and spring growth commences to prune. Pruning mature citrus is more a matter of aesthetics. They require little, other than removing dead wood and thinning inside shoot growth. Again, eliminate all suckers below the bud union. Linda Guy Master Gardener You should not prune off more than 15% from your citrus tree at one time and do not prune off enough so that the limbs or trunk are exposed to sunshine or the tree will get sun burned unless you paint the trunk with water based white paint or wrap with burlap. It would be ok to prune now. Any time you remove foliage or limbs from a plant or tree you reduce its capacity to manufacture food. Check out this website on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener >From: nlfisher001@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:17:00 -0700 (MST) > >what month should lemon trees be pruned and how should you prune them. >thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From houseofblue@yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 18:45:14 2001 From: houseofblue@yahoo.com (houseofblue@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:45:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281845.fBSIjEn10450@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you send me instructions on how to prune a chilean mesquite? From AZamigo@aol.com Fri Dec 28 18:51:18 2001 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:51:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281851.fBSIpIn11132@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a three year old grapefruit tree planted on my property and was recently told that the application of composted steer manure in addition to the regular application of conventional fertilizer would be benneficial. The tree is roughly 6 feet in diameter and 6.5 feet tall. A basin extends out 6" past the drip line. How much manure should be added, what time of year should it be added and what is the application procedure.Thx-Matthew From valpogrl@aol.com Fri Dec 28 20:01:43 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 13:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112282001.fBSK1hn18013@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I have a Morning Glory question..and ethics.From what I understand the ban on Morning Glories is based on the invasive quality they carry. I have a friend who plans on planting them in a container. What is the risk? Do I turn her in to some sort of "plant police"? Go over and rip them out? Ignore it? I don't want to be responsible for some sort of kudzu type mess here in AZ. Thanks, Cindy From Roomie71@Aol.com Fri Dec 28 21:19:02 2001 From: Roomie71@Aol.com (Roomie71@Aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:19:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112282119.fBSLJ2n26646@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted serveral oleaders in my yard all the colors. My question is the red oleander has not bloom since I planted them my pink one are blooming all the time. Is there a reason for that.And is there anything I con do to help them bloom ? From alamo@ultrasw.com Sat Dec 29 19:19:45 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 12:19:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spacing Dwarf Nandina Plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011229120902.009f47c0@pop3.norton.antivirus> I'd like to replace an irregularly shaped bed of iris in full sun (Tucson street side yard) with a grouping of Dwarf Nandina. I've been looking every winter for several years to find some that develop the lovely rich red winter color and finally found some today in a local nursery. I want them to form, when mature, an informal grouping of separated and distinct (from one another) low "mounds" rather than a massed planting where they all run into one another. How far apart do I want to space them to get the effect I'm after? I.e., how wide should I expect each individual bush to spread? Signa From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 29 20:46:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:46:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and Frost Message-ID: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula, The freezing that we have here in the low desert will not bother bare root roses unles there is a severe frost which could affect the roses if the canes have started to leaf out. January is the time recommended for planting roses here in the low desert. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,

The freezing that we have here in the low desert will not bother bare root roses unles there is a severe frost which could affect the roses if the canes have started to leaf out. January is the time recommended for planting roses here in the low desert.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 29 20:47:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:47:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Steer Manure on Citrus Message-ID: <104.e9b44fa.295f85f3@aol.com> --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steer manure is relatively low in nitrogen content (1 to 2 % ) and is more of a soil conditioner than a fertilizer and as such can be beneficial to citrus, but should not be applied on a regular basis because of its high salt content. Winter is the best time to apply manure, however continue to apply chemical fertilizer three to four times a year. I would suggest applying one bag of steer manure to your 6 foot diameter citrus uniformly covering the root zone area. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steer manure is relatively low in nitrogen content (1 to 2 % ) and is more of a soil conditioner than a fertilizer and as such can be beneficial to citrus, but should not be applied on a regular basis because of its high salt content. Winter is the best time to apply manure, however continue to apply chemical fertilizer three to four times a year. I would suggest applying one bag of steer manure to your 6 foot diameter citrus uniformly covering the root zone area.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary-- From gizmoaz@home.com Sun Dec 30 00:19:29 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 17:19:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges References: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C2E5D91.ECD06275@home.com> Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here grows Blood Oranges? I am in particular interested in the variety "Ruby Blood Orange". I used my Christmas money and bought a Ruby Blood Orange at Greenfield Citrus nurseries. When I went there, my intent was to buy a Moro Blood Orange. I was informed by the staff at Greenfield that Moro Blood Oranges did not perform as well in our desert climate as they do on the coast, and the Ruby was recommended in place of Moro. I was told it gets much redder than Moro, and produces a much sweeter juice. Anyone care to elaborate or share their experiences with both Blood Oranges in general, and the Ruby Blood Orange, if you have that variety. Thanks, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! -- No matter how fast your PC is, Microsoft will find a way to slow it down From AZamigo@aol.com Sun Dec 30 02:29:46 2001 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 19:29:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112300229.fBU2Tkn03448@Ag.arizona.edu> Has anyone had any experience with a spray that makes compost break down faster. It says it heats up the pile and breaks it into smaller pieces- any ideas? From pnine19@msn.com Sun Dec 30 17:15:27 2001 From: pnine19@msn.com (pnine19@msn.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:15:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112301715.fBUHFRn03294@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow a apeldoorn tulip in phoenix.What is advised planting and care. From Ceschinone@aol.com Sun Dec 30 17:17:19 2001 From: Ceschinone@aol.com (Ceschinone@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:17:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112301717.fBUHHJn03481@Ag.arizona.edu> /do you have an updated article or information dealing with the pruning of backyard grapes? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 30 17:37:33 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:37:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200112301717.fBUHHJn03481@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001f01c19158$aa97a8e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> There is an excellent brochure "Backyard Grapes" (MC 59). You can pick this up for free at either the main office or at one of the satellite offices. If you wish to have them mailed to you, there is a charge of $1.00. The care and pruning of grapes will be covered in either of the upcoming Citrus and Deciduous Fruit Clinics. The location and dates are on our web site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > /do you have an updated article or information dealing with the pruning of backyard grapes? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Dec 30 20:15:39 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:15:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tulips Message-ID: Here is some tulip information from the web. Note tulips generally don't grow well in our mild climate (zone 9); may want to try some warm climate bulbs instead of tulips: Mild-winter tulips. If you live where winters rarely or never reach freezing temperatures, tulips likely won't grow all that well. However, you can still grow tulips if you chill them for six to eight weeks before planting (see below). The best choices are Darwin Hybrids or Single Late varieties. The long, strong stems of these tulips are more tolerant of wind and rain, and their midseason blooms appear before hot weather or spring weather. Or consider some of the species tulips that are better suited to milder climates. These include lady or candy tulip (Tulipa clusiana), with rosy red petals that are white inside; Candia tulip (T. saxatilis), with vivid rose-lilac petals and a yellow base; and yellow Florentine (T. sylvestris). These are smaller and less dramatic than hybrid tulips but are still full of tulip character. When and where to plant. Plant tulips any time the soil 6 inches deep is 60�F or colder. As a general guide, plant in September or early October in USDA Climate Hardiness Zones 4 and 5; October to early November in zones 6 and 7; November to early December in zones 8 and 9; and late December to early January in zone 10. In zones 8 through 10, refrigerate tulip bulbs for six to eight weeks before planting. Place them in a paper bag away from ripening fruits (the fruits produce ethylene gas, which destroys the flower bud within the bulb). Tulips grow best in full sun in well-prepared soil with fast drainage. Avoid planting where water collects, or in locations that are prone to late frosts. How to plant. The rule is to plant tulips pointed end up and 6 inches deep, meaning 4 inches of soil above the top of the bulb. Plant a little deeper, to 8 inches, if soil is light or sandy, or if pests such as voles are a problem. Those 2 extra inches put them just out of reach of voles. Deep planting also keeps the bulbs cooler, an advantage in mild-winter areas. >From: pnine19@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:15:27 -0700 (MST) > >Is it possible to grow a apeldoorn tulip in phoenix.What is advised >planting and care. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/ar _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From lisacataz@aol.com Sun Dec 30 20:21:56 2001 From: lisacataz@aol.com (lisacataz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 13:21:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302021.fBUKLun14753@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a CA pepper tree that's about 14 years old. I noticed that there are numerous little greenish lumps along the trunk, sort of like leaking sap but not the right color. Is there something wrong with my tree? If so, is there anything I can do to save it? Many thanks, lisa From Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:09:38 2001 From: Sillywilly2632@aol.com (Sillywilly2632@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 16:09:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302309.fBUN9cn26676@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Yuma. Lowes and Home Depot are currently selling bare root roses. If I buy them now, how long can I keep them before planting. When is the best time to plant bare root roses? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:10:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 18:10:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Oleanders not blooming Message-ID: --part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some oleander colors, namely white grow more vigorously than other colors. This may be the case with your oles. Could there be caliche or construction debris or compacted soil around your red oleander? These could affect the growth. You might try a water soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus such as Super Bloom or comparable. Spray on the leaves as well as on the soil. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some oleander colors, namely white grow more vigorously than other colors. This may be the case with your oles. Could there be caliche or construction debris or compacted soil around your red oleander? These could affect the growth.
You might try a water soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus such as Super Bloom or comparable. Spray on the leaves as well as on the soil.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary-- From Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:15:03 2001 From: Sillywilly2632@aol.com (Sillywilly2632@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 16:15:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302315.fBUNF3n27307@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Yuma. When is the best time to prune roses? Do I fertilize them after prunning? Also what is the best fertilizer to use? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:29:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 18:29:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] California Pepper Tree Message-ID: <21.16a90c4b.2960fd72@aol.com> --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lisa, It is normal for the California Pepper tree to drip resin. If what you are seeing is something other than normal the tree is very likely under a stress condition which could be caused by Texas Root Rot, heart rot, root knot nematodes or by inadequate irrigation. The best treatment you can give your tree is to be sure that it is deep watered perriodically. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lisa,

It is normal for the California Pepper tree to drip resin. If what you are seeing is something other than normal the tree is very likely under a stress condition which could be caused by Texas Root Rot, heart rot, root knot nematodes or by inadequate irrigation. The best treatment you can give your tree is to be sure that it is deep watered perriodically.
Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Mon Dec 31 11:41:18 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 04:41:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yuma - When to Plant Roses In-Reply-To: <200112302309.fBUN9cn26676@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I had that question, too, just recently since I was concerned about frost. The resounding answer was that January is the time to plant bare root roses in our climate - Sunset Western Garden Climate Zone 13. It seems that roses are pretty hardy and just plain pretty. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:10 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Yuma. Lowes and Home Depot are currently selling bare root roses. If I buy them now, how long can I keep them before planting. When is the best time to plant bare root roses? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kintuit@inficad.com Mon Dec 31 17:11:16 2001 From: kintuit@inficad.com (kintuit@inficad.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:11:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Would like to plant my poinsettia in my yard. How, where, when do I do this and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? From umiller@azdps.com Mon Dec 31 17:59:55 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Poinsettias In-Reply-To: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Keep your potted plant in a well-lighted place, free of drafts and where temps at night get cool (50 degrees). Keep it moist unless the leaves drop and plant goes dormant. If this happens, give occasional water until spring. Then plant it outside after frost is over next to a south or east-facing wall with an overhang. Fertilize 3x a year, spring, June and fall. They like rich organic soil with good drainage. They can be damaged by light frosts and killed by severe freezes. That's what my dry climate gardening book says. Last year I volunteered at the Poinsettia Festival where the whole afternoon was spent talking about poinsettias while people were buying them. Some of the customers said that they have great luck with planting poinsettias outdoors. I have not had luck with this myself, neither have any of my friends. In fact, I don't remember ever seeing a poinsettia on anybody's property but that doesn't mean they're not there. Maybe they just need more care than most of the rest of us are willing to donate. Some people, in fact, keep them as indoor plants. But that's a REAL hassle (at least to me). To get them to flower the plant needs to be in dark for long hours during the late fall, so people put them in a closet early in the evenings. One person told me that she travels a lot and hires someone to come in and put her poinsettia in the closet. Another person said that he covers his large ones with some kind of tent-like thing that he made for them. Good luck. It's worth a try! Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kintuit@inficad.com Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:11 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to plant my poinsettia in my yard. How, where, when do I do this and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 31 22:24:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:24:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose pruning time Message-ID: <48.44329c9.29623fb3@aol.com> --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Silly Willy, Ursula was right on target when she wrote that January is the time to prune your roses. As for fertilizer, I have used Organo Rose Food for many years with good luck. However there are other fertilizers out there that will probably do as well. I fertilize soon after I finish pruning. Enclosed is an article that I wrote for a newspaper recently on pruning and planting roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian Good luck. --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Silly Willy,

Ursula was right on target when she wrote that January is the time to prune your roses. As for fertilizer, I have used Organo Rose Food for many years with good luck. However there are other fertilizers out there that will probably do as well. I fertilize soon after I finish pruning.

Enclosed is an article that I wrote for a newspaper recently on pruning and planting roses.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian

Good luck. --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Dec 31 23:15:25 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:15:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re; Would like to plant my poinsettia References: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c19251$0d0ac360$7c54530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Would like to plant my poinsettia in > my yard. How, where, when do I do this > and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? >From "The Valley of the Sun Gardener" newsletter, December 2000 Olin "... Poinsettias always seem to decline after the holidays but they will thrive year after year with proper care. Holiday plants can be set outside in the landscape in late February or early March, after the last frosts. Or cut back and repot in the spring. An ideal landscape location is well-drained and adjacent to a wall that faces south or east, with a large overhang. First reduce watering to about once a week to induce dormancy. Wait to transplant until the bracts and some leaves drop. Prune back about halfway. They will color again only after experiencing long-night conditions, sheltered from all light for about 14 hours a day starting in October." From StevCatAlxMar@aol.com Sat Dec 1 01:48:26 2001 From: StevCatAlxMar@aol.com (StevCatAlxMar@aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:48:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Queen Palms with yellow fronds Message-ID: <11d.8376b40.293990ea@aol.com> --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend. Happy holidays, Steve Joseph (623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend.
Happy holidays,
Steve Joseph
(623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary-- From c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net Sat Dec 1 05:46:17 2001 From: c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net (Charles Laughlin) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 21:46:17 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whoops! Message-ID: <000c01c17a2b$8043e480$1743530c@compaq> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear LADIES and Gentlemen: Please accept my sincere=20 apologies for major boo-boo - addressing my questions to only "gentlemen" - this was certainly an unintentional exclusion of people I love! Sincerely, Charles Laughlin ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear LADIES and Gentlemen:

Please accept my sincere=20

apologies for major boo-boo -

addressing my questions to only

"gentlemen" - this was certainly

an unintentional exclusion of

people I love! = Sincerely,

= =20 Charles Laughlin

Regards,
-----
Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13

http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!!
Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!!

KLH718@aol.com wrote:

I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing.
Is there anything to be done?
thanks ! ! !
and, can you please put me on your mailing list?
Thanks

Dear=20 Rod,

Try

http://www.reemay.co= m/biobarrier/index.html

Regards

steve

I'm sure like many of you, you're waiting for = your green=20 tomatoes to ripen.... Has anyone experimented with using remay atop to = speed=20 things, and putting red objects amongst the leaves?

Hi all

Thanks

Shana Coontz

---
Outgoing mail is certified = Virus=20 Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.303 /=20 Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C17D9F.DC5F7500-- From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Dec 5 23:35:58 2001 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cantaloupes Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready to be picked? I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in the desert! Michelle in Avondale ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 5 23:43:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 18:43:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass is spotty Message-ID: <18.16840982.29400b39@aol.com> --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation. Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation.

Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary-- From isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us Thu Dec 6 13:55:53 2001 From: isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us (isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:55:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112061355.fB6DtrB05949@Ag.arizona.edu> 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Dec 6 21:17:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 16:17:22 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Dec 6 22:26:51 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 15:26:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: <007201c17ea5$2d1d8ee0$ae51530c@j0r9501> The AZ Republic article paraphrases the Cooperative Extension's December "Timely Tips" recommendation at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/dec.htm which states: "Fertilize winter lawns monthly with ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate. Use 1/4 pound per 1,000 square feet as needed to maintain good color (usually once every three weeks)." Perhaps this "Timely Tip" should be clarified as Rod suggested to specify either actual nitrogen or the equivalent in ammonium nitrate. It may not be necessary to include potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate, neither of which is easy to find locally. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly ----- Original Message ----- From: >> I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds > of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. > > Good luck > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 6 21:27:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 14:27:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112052011.fB5KBtB07680@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I wouldn't cut anything off now for the just the reason you gave. I usually wait until March to start trimming again. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, but a Bougainvillea Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 1:12 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My bouganvillias have many flowers but as these fall off there is a bare stem left. During warm time periods I understand you cut these stems off to promote more growth. Is there a concern cutting these stems off at this time period because of the cold and potential freeze at night. I live in the Mesa area, east side. Thanks you for your time. Ron _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rubberducky55@aol.com Fri Dec 7 00:10:32 2001 From: Rubberducky55@aol.com (Rubberducky55@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 19:10:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT....what type Message-ID: --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project.... Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project....
Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary-- From paul_widman@hotmail.com Fri Dec 7 20:53:39 2001 From: paul_widman@hotmail.com (paul_widman@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:53:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Dec 7 21:53:30 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 14:53:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20011207144756.009ccf00@ag.arizona.edu> Paul, Ultrasonic pest control devices have been proven ineffective for pest control. Trapping and fumigants are still the most reliable for the control of pocket gophers. The urban integrated pest management web site for the University of Arizona continues to post research based information as they expand this resource. They have detailed information in the vertebrate pest section on gopher control. Take a look at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/pocketgophers.html I believe it will help you with your problems. Kind regards, Cathy At 01:53 PM 12/07/2001 -0700, paul_widman@hotmail.com wrote: >Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned >citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried >ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From DAnde25974@aol.com Sun Dec 9 05:33:44 2001 From: DAnde25974@aol.com (DAnde25974@aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 22:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? From jray59@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 16:35:35 2001 From: jray59@earthlink.net (jray59@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:35:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW BASIC CARE OF CUT MISTLETOE AND HOW TO PRESERVE THRU HOLIDAYS??? From johnacarver@yahoo.com Sun Dec 9 17:26:17 2001 From: johnacarver@yahoo.com (John Carver) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:26:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the base. There is a soft depression where that nail used to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. I would like to know if this problem is due to watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and with what material? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com From swoodr7697@aol.com Sun Dec 9 17:31:07 2001 From: swoodr7697@aol.com (swoodr7697@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:31:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091731.fB9HV7q23457@Ag.arizona.edu> where can i buy large quantity of 'tree seedlings' to create forest on 8 acres, carefree? which trees are most suitable/hardy for above zone (mountainous?)for large shade? thxs! sw From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 18:05:01 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:05:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... References: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002b01c180dc$06c02260$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi John! Queen palms do not do well in the low desert. They like acidic soils; we have alkaline soils. They like high humidity; we have low humidity. The hot dry winds tend to whip the fronds and they get wind burnt, which gives them a tattered look. They do not like the high heat or the cold that we have in the Valley. They are temperamental and very demanding and with the best of care, they still do not do well. The Queen Palm is a native of the Amazon tropics where the weather is not at all like we have Queen Palms are especially sensitive to manganese deficiency. Manganese deficiency (sometimes called frizzle top) manifests itself by producing new fronds that are stunted and deformed. This is a potentially fatal disease if left untreated. If it is determined that the tree is suffering from a manganese deficiency, manganese sulfate (Epsom salts) at the rate of two to four pounds per tree. This should be broadcast evenly under the canopy. DO NOT apply any closer to the trunk than twelve inches, if you do you could damage the root initiation zone. Here is a link to our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ10210'. Page 5 of this publication gives watering and fertilizing directions for palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Carver" To: Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 10:26 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... > I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the > groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never > reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and > there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the > fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous > owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the > base. There is a soft depression where that nail used > to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. > I would like to know if this problem is due to > watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I > treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and > with what material? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 18:53:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:53:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <4b.14f9dc20.29450d10@aol.com> --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment. Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically. Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John,

From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment.

Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically.

Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees:

http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 19:12:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 14:12:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <3b.1eafafec.294511b6@aol.com> --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary-- From pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com Sun Dec 9 19:24:47 2001 From: pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com (pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 12:24:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091924.fB9JOlq18393@Ag.arizona.edu> We are planning in putting in grass in a currently hard pack dirt area of our yard about 20 feet by 15 feet. What do we need to do to prepare the soil to lay sod. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 23:29:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 18:29:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, soil preparation Message-ID: --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary-- From dtb@uswestmail.net Mon Dec 10 04:19:44 2001 From: dtb@uswestmail.net (dtb@uswestmail.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:19:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112100419.fBA4Jiq02838@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to cover a 100 foot block wall that faces west with full sun. The wall is 10 foot from the pool area. Would some type of vines be practical? I don't have irrigation available. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:01:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:01:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Are ants the worms of the desert? References: <000001c17cee$bc484c80$5aaa3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C14B236.98F9CDC7@qwest.net> --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years. Also, I've dissimilar experience with the worms based on the microclimates of my beds. The ones that are more shaded particularly in the winter are teeming with very large worms very close to the surface of the soil which is exceedingly crumbly. So much so that it almost lasts the duration of the summer. The worms obviously go deeper in the heat of summer, less deep when there is some shade. Seems to be a function of shade/cool and consistent incorporation of organic matter. Linda Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of > organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less > extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where > there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my > gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most > of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What > I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same > aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb > texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course > there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years.

Linda

Jonathan Kandell wrote:

Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk

Linda Guy, MG

Shana Coontz wrote:

Hi all I have watched the discussion about Brookbank's "Desert Gardening", and I wonder whether there are any obvious differences in climate or growing conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, AZ. We are farther north but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea level. Temperatures reach 125 degrees during the summer. Is this less or more severe than Tucson? And do Tucson yards consist of sand, the way mine does? The reason I ask is that I have just ordered Brookbank's book, and I would like some idea of what differences I may have to keep in mind. Thanks Shana Coontz
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Linda Guy, MG
Phoenix, AZ, USA

Micki Pelser wrote:

Hi Linda

Not knowing much about my newly acquired garden, I was wondering if you could help me.

I live in Cape Town � South Africa and recently bought 3 kalanchoe plants from my local nursery.
The label says that the plants require full sunlight, sandy soil and minimal watering, but from what I�ve found on the Internet these plants seem to be better off indoors or at least out of direct sunlight.
Are the growing requirements different for different countries or should I change nurseries? Can you help me please?

Thank you
Micki

Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)

dbmurray@msn.com wrote:

I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Christopher Jones, Extension Agent =
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs =

The University of Arizona =
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177=20 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ = 85501=20

Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail:=20 ckjones@ag.arizona.edu

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Barbara = Cenalmor
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:08 = AM
To:=20 dbmurray@msn.com
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 Re: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach

Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main = ingredient. =20 Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it = kills a=20 plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in = chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of = bleach=20 that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have = a large=20 concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want = to=20 expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know = of?=20
Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)=20
dbmurray@msn.com wrote:=20 I=20 want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also = want to=20 know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to=20 = bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_ga= rdener=20 mailing=20 = list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/lis= tinfo/arid_gardener

Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo!=20 Shopping and Yahoo!=20 Auctions for all of your holiday gifts! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C18225.50748960-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 13:53:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 06:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime trees References: <000401c17a94$42029ae0$8ce3fea9@5s3iy> Message-ID: <3C176168.F2491686@qwest.net> Mr. Bishop, Here is a reply from Dr. Glenn Wright who is the citrus specialist at UA. I had asked him some questions about citrus coloring, in general, as it related to temperature, as well as your specific inquiry. Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. Linda Guy, MG Leonard Bishop wrote: > Can anyone tell me why bears limes turn yellow in late November? Is it > because it is not fertilized properly or is it a natural function of the > tree. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 14:21:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:21:54 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees]] Message-ID: <3C176802.22D0A711@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dr. Glenn Wright gave me a brief tutorial on citrus coloring which I thought you'd all appreciate. Thanks Dr. Glenn! --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 20626 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail4.uswest.net) (63.226.138.4) by mpls-mailin-03.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: (qmail 34244 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO Ag.arizona.edu) (150.135.40.100) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from Lemonhead.ag.arizona.edu (Lemon.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.3]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.10.2+Sun/8.11.2) with ESMTP id fBBFuw922559 for ; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20011211085631.03680ec0@127.0.0.1> From: "Glenn C. Wright" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: gwright/ag.arizona.edu@127.0.0.1 X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1 Subject: Re: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees] In-Reply-To: <3C14AD02.44B61FDC@qwest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 At 05:39 AM 12/10/2001 -0700, you wrote: >This is one example of a few we've be getting apropos citrus coloring, >timing thereof, color as an indication of ripeness [I thought it was an >indication of cold hours, based on an article Lucy published in the >Republic some time ago]. Can you give me a little tutorial which would >probably be great to share on the arid gardener server as well. Your >time permitting, of course. > >Thanks in advance. > >Linda >Hi Linda: > >You are correct in assuming that citrus change color in relation to >temperature. When air and soil temperatures drop below 15C (59F), >chlorophyll is degraded, and chloroplasts in the peel are converted to >chromoplasts which contain yellow, orange or red pigments. This may not >necessarily be a direct effect of temperature as it is entirely possible >that the cool temperatures affect the roots, which in turn affect >production of plant hormones located there, which then are transported >upwards and initiate the degradation process in the peels. Lemons, for >example are artificially colored in the packinghouse using the gaseous >plant hormone ethylene. It is also well known that pre-harvest >applications of gibberellins will retard coloration. > >Tree vigor also affects peel coloration. Vigorously growing trees, or >trees that have been heavily fertilized with nitrogen, will have poorer >coloration than slower growing trees. > >Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. > >Thanks for asking. > >GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Dec 13 00:01:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: palm info References: Message-ID: <3C17EFC2.A8CEE4A9@qwest.net> I would try again. Sometimes the server is down. If you still cannot access it, you can go to the top of the publications page, you will see instructions for requesting a copy by mail. Linda Guy, MG Elaine Hegstrom wrote: > My neighborhood is interested in transplanting some free palms. i tried to access the palm info, but could not. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf > > How can I get this info? > > Elaine Hegstrom > 328 N. Country club > Tucson 85716 From dwsmyers@msn.com Fri Dec 14 15:19:30 2001 From: dwsmyers@msn.com (dwsmyers@msn.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112141519.fBEFJU922856@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me someone to contact? Thanks, Dan From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 14 23:47:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:47:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, grapefruit not thriving Message-ID: I would check the trunk at the ground level. Make sure that the trunk is not in contact with soil -- this can happen over time as soil washes in around the tree. You should see lateral roots an inch or so below the surface -- if you have to dig deeper, pull the extra soil out away from the trunk. Keep the trunk free of dirt and avoid prolonged contact with water. Let us know if this doesn't appear to be a problem with your grapefruit tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dwsmyers@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing >well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that >has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing >and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the >bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me >someone to contact? Thanks, Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 15 21:07:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:07:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Raywood Ash Message-ID: <173.d27e62.294d158d@aol.com> --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary-- From jennaz31@aol.com Sun Dec 16 01:04:00 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:04:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions: The first is about my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? Second, I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. Thanks for your help. Jenn From s2@arcworldwide.com Sun Dec 16 01:50:57 2001 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1BFE01.E3C935BB@auroranow.org> Hi gardeners, Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got a bit too frostbitten. I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how to handle the damage on these: lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with several completely browned branches/dead leaves) Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are flopped. I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as well. Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From cmiliti7@aol.com Sun Dec 16 07:21:34 2001 From: cmiliti7@aol.com (cmiliti7@aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 02:21:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] wasps and grapes Message-ID: --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps? corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps?
corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 17 00:08:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 00:08:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... Message-ID: Yes, it has certainly been chilly the last week or so. Sounds like you already know what to do -- leave the damaged plants alone until growth begins again in the spring. Then you will be able to see how extensive the frost damage is. The frozen parts also help to protect growth underneath -- we can expect at least a couple more cold nights this week, before the warming begins at the end of the week. Not sure there is anything you can do for the aloe and cactus -- just watch and see how much damage they have sustained. Linda Drew Master Gardener (Tucson) >From: Sherryl Stalinski >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... >Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 > >Hi gardeners, >Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace >and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. > >Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside >Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got >a bit too frostbitten. > >I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so >the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how >to handle the damage on these: > >lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) >yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open >and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with >several completely browned branches/dead leaves) > >Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one >planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. > >What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with >a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are >flopped. > >I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as >well. > >Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my >buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. > >I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Vice President, Communications & Technology >ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com >Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >===================================================== >"I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From HeatherF19@aol.com Mon Dec 17 05:24:05 2001 From: HeatherF19@aol.com (HeatherF19@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 00:24:05 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 Message-ID: <200112170431.fBH4V4L15646@mail5.registeredsite.com> To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: HeatherF19@aol.com () Subject: Hey there 206769348 Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by (HeatherF19@aol.com) on Monday, December 17, 2001 at 00:24:05 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- msg: Hi, my name is Heather and I am a 19 year old female from San Diego, California. Ever since my 14th birthday, I have been really sexually active, but I am still a virgin. Now I am 19 and away from home, attending school at San Diego State University and sharing a dorm with four of my girlfriends and are all VERY turned on to meet a guy and satisfy ALL of his pleasures. To see our sexy pictures we took just last week and to meet some other couples, go to our site
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764789641 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 17 22:16:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:16:08 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Roses Message-ID: <176.eaf03b.294fc8a8@aol.com> --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn, If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially. As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn,

If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially.
As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary-- From bethskoff@aol.com Tue Dec 18 03:05:22 2001 From: bethskoff@aol.com (bethskoff@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:05:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Dec 18 03:23:11 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo not leafing out References: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000501c18773$53d8f200$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The normal state for an ocotillo is "no leaves". If you bought a bare root plant, it can exist for up to two years before it re-roots. Roots need to grow in its new location before it leafs out. Have patience. it was 17 months before the bare root Ocotillo I planted had leaves. If you look at the swollen part just above the roots it will show some green underneath and/or between the bark furrows if it is still alive Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From clydic@theriver.com Tue Dec 18 04:49:31 2001 From: clydic@theriver.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:49:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 In-Reply-To: <200112170431.fBH4V4L15646@mail5.registeredsite.com> Message-ID: How DOES this boloney get thru our server???????? -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of HeatherF19@aol.com Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 10:24 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: HeatherF19@aol.com () Subject: Hey there 206769348 Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by (HeatherF19@aol.com) on Monday, December 17, 2001 at 00:24:05 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- msg: Hi, my name is Heather and I am a 19 year old female from San Diego, California. Ever since my 14th birthday, I have been really sexually active, but I am still a virgin. Now I am 19 and away from home, attending school at San Diego State University and sharing a dorm with four of my girlfriends and are all VERY turned on to meet a guy and satisfy ALL of his pleasures. To see our sexy pictures we took just last week and to meet some other couples, go to our site
http://www.lllil.com/heather/ livewebcam

764789641 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Ranger1242@aol.com Tue Dec 18 12:58:09 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:58:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 13:23:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 06:23:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Problem ID References: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F4360.9910BE6B@qwest.net> Could it be possible that it is a type of scale? To read up on treatment options for this miniscule pest on the UA's Urban Pest Management website, consult: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/scaleinsects.html Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 18 16:21:36 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:21:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Green Tomatoes/Cecile Brunner Clmbing Rose References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c187e0$fd54c620$9d51530c@j0r9501> In the low desert, if your tomatoes are still green they will most likely not change color until about February when the days become longer and the daytime temps are warmer. Meanwhile, you will need to protect the plants from frost. We have a few plants in containers that are beginning to ripen very slowly but the tomatoes out in the garden are still very green. A Google search turns up lots of sites about Cecile Brunner but none seem to address your specific questions. We have a number of experienced rosarians on this list who will, hopefully, respond to those questions. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >... >... my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? > >...I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:49:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:49:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preserving mistletoe References: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9DDB.75FCDB60@qwest.net> I found some information on preserving mistletoe on the Net. You can view this PDF file by going to: http://hgic.clemson.edu/PDF/HGIC1151.pdf Sue Bass > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:52:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Corn and Sunflowers together References: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9E7C.963A67F9@qwest.net> You can view an archived answer to a previous question about planting sunflowers and corn together at the following link to our archives: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003819.html Sue Bass DAnde25974@aol.com wrote: > Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:54:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:54:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to tell when cantaloupes are ripe References: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3C1F9F07.48020FF1@qwest.net> You can view a response to a similar question on how to tell when cantaloupes are ripe by going to our archives. The following link will take you directly to the previous response on this subject: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-September/008727.html Sue Bass Michelle B wrote: > I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" > diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready > to be picked? > > I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have > found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in > the desert! > > Michelle in Avondale > ****************************************** > We Hate Snoring > http://www.wehatesnoring.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Dec 19 00:06:03 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (steve.sheard@motorola.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:06:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112190006.fBJ063n14185@Ag.arizona.edu> I hear that trees are a roses worst enemy, because of shade and because their roots invade the rose's roots. How do I plant a climbing rose if I want it to grow into a tree? I am considering Mermaid into a Chinese Elm tree. From lbradley@sisna.com Tue Dec 18 18:10:03 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011218110137.01db9e90@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information Daniel Salzler No. 97 azwatershed@aol.com December 14, 2001 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Fifteen Items<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< 6. Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes hate the aroma of common garden catnip (Nepeta cataria), new research shows. And not only are the extracts safe, they are more effective than Diethyl-m-toluamide, or DEET, the chemical used in most commercial insect repellents. Catnip is one of several plants used in folk medicine to ward off insects, but most people turn to DEET when they want serious deterrence. Now researchers at Iowa State University, Ames, have shown that a relatively weak solution of catnip extract repels mosquitoes as effectively as a DEET solution ten times more concentrated. "We haven't yet tested whether it will work against mosquitoes when on human skin," says Coats. "But our results are directly relevant to repellency on things like clothing and tents." "Anything that is as good or better than DEET is welcome, because DEET has some side effects,"says Ribeiro. DEET is classified as "moderately toxic" by EPA and can harm birds, fish and aquatic invertebrates. However, the EPA believes it does not present a health concern to the general US population. For more information, go online to http://www.newscientist.com/news/news.jsp?id=ns99991199 . Important Christmas Tree Safety Tips If your Christmas tree is live or cut: * Select only fresh trees. Look for one that is green, and that has needles that bend and not break. The needles should be hard to pull off of the branches. * As soon as the tree is brought home, saw off no more than one inch of the trunk and place the tree in a sturdy water holding stand. * Make sure the stand is kept full of water so that it does not dry out. * Stand your tree away from fireplaces, radiators, televisions and other heat sources. * Only use indoor lights on your tree, check lights to see that the cords and connections are in good working order. Be careful not to use more than three light sets per extension cord. Unplug lights when going to bed or when leaving home. Copyright d. salzler. 2001 -------------------------------------------------- Colleagues: if you would like to receive this newsletter as a pdf file, please request: <> From mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu Wed Dec 19 19:36:13 2001 From: mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu (mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:36:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112191936.fBJJaDn04822@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting black table grapes in a Phoenix garden. What varieties are recommended and where ccan I purchase them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 19 21:37:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:37:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree Message-ID: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve, One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. Good luck. Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve,

One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea.

Good luck.

Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary-- From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 22:30:21 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:30:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that would hurt the tree or not. -- A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Steve, > > One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the > pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the > rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's > feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose > might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' > ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. > > Good luck. > > Rod From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 23:00:01 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:00:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> Message-ID: <3C211BF1.6DB8C287@home.com> I should clarify...I'm talking about the black nursery buckets for putting plants in. You can get them at Lowes, or...I have a couple of extra's. I would be willing to donate one to the cause, if you are interested Steve. -- Errymay ristmaschay andway appyhay ewnay earyay." - Pig Latin Christmas ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! GizmoAZ wrote: > What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the > ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted > the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from > becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some > roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that > would hurt the tree or not. > -- > A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. > ----- > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull > moment!! > Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! > From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Dec 19 23:47:59 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <006601c188e8$db8c9be0$3e50530c@j0r9501> We have a Lady Banks planted about 7 feet southeast of the trunk of an African sumac tree. It was about at the edge of the canopy when we planted it a some years ago but now is well under the tree. We had planned to train it on an arbor (like Tucson) but while we weren't watching it took off up into the tree and now most of the rose's foliage is in the tree, probably trying to grow toward the light source. Kinda messy looking. So I would think the lack of light would be a greater concern than root competition. But it would probably also depend on the type of tree and its root system. Olin From lbradley@sisna.com Thu Dec 20 00:56:56 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:56:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Farmers Markets and You Pick Farms Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011219175457.01e54b28@ag.arizona.edu> >* A new printed revision of the listing of direct marketers of fresh >fruits and vegetables in Maricopa County is available from their office at >4341 E Broadway Rd, Phoenix. The updated edition lists 15 community >farmers markets and 19 direct seller of produce located from Wickenberg to >Queen Creek. Or on the web at > From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:10:06 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:10:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211710.fBLHA6n28289@Ag.arizona.edu> From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:14:18 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:14:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211714.fBLHEIn29015@Ag.arizona.edu> re Queen Palms Help! watering needs all seasons as well as fertilizing etc., for Chandler, AZ also, how do I retrieve your publication? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Dec 21 18:17:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:17:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care Message-ID: <154.6249c60.2954d6a7@aol.com> --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Fri Dec 21 19:09:19 2001 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:09:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <20011221190919.39673.qmail@web13808.mail.yahoo.com> I have planted eight Ficus trees along my back wall with the intention of completely hiding the wall. They are planted 15 ft apart. They are doing quite well after 3yrs but they still do not meet together to cover the wall. Would it help or hurt the health of tree to "top" them in order to encourage lateral growth instead of upward growth? Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com From vinham@aol.com Fri Dec 21 20:52:44 2001 From: vinham@aol.com (vinham@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:52:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Information on plants to attract humming birds From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Dec 21 21:12:38 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:12:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hummingbirds References: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C23A5C6.5DD94506@qwest.net> U of A Publication AZ1100, which you can view by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers has a chart which shows which flowering plants are attractive to hummingbirds. Hummingbirds are attracted to tubular shaped flowers, particularly red and orange flowers. Don't forget a water source. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water. There are drippers available that you can add to your birdbath that will entice birds. Another good site is found at: http://portalproductions.com/h/ It is called the Hummingbird Web Site. You can click on the option "Gardens", then choose gardens for your region. Sue Bass Master Gardener > Information on plants to attract humming birds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 22 00:17:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:17:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <117.9cf02f9.29552b25@aol.com> --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth. Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth.
Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary-- From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sat Dec 22 19:08:05 2001 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants In-Reply-To: <153.3bbd8ad.291d38f8@aol.com> Message-ID: Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of them? Thanks a bunch!! Jackee From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 22:01:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:01:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants Message-ID: Here is an answer from Master Gardener Linda Guy regarding houseplant of fungus gnats. You need to eliminate the larvae in the soil; treating the adults has little success: Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: "Edward & Jackee De Alejandro" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants >Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 > >Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my >houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of >them? > >Thanks a bunch!! > >Jackee > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From dmkerr2@home.com Sun Dec 23 13:00:29 2001 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:00:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangor Message-ID: <004001c18bb1$cc3a9c70$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in = Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo = (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something = sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. Good = size and few seeds are desirable. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Gardener =

My Lemon tree is bare of any foliage = and has about=20 12 lemons/not ripe and NO signs of budding, which by now I can see. = In the=20 summer of this year I sprayed with Malathion. Did I kill = it?

Thanks for the info

Lori

South Bay - CA

Good luck!
Linda Guy, MG

Kerr Family wrote:

Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. Good size and few seeds are desirable.

Than= k you, Darrell O'Neal (Glendale, AZ)

Wondered what people's thought/experiences with = polymers=20 in arid climates...

e.g. www.watersorb.com

I know = that now is a good time to plant roses in the Phoenix area, but does this mean that = frost isn=92t an issue with them?

Ursula Miller

<= /p>

------=_NextPart_000_0013_01C18EEA.13A29C80-- From nlfisher001@yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 14:17:00 2001 From: nlfisher001@yahoo.com (nlfisher001@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:17:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281417.fBSEH0n15206@Ag.arizona.edu> what month should lemon trees be pruned and how should you prune them. thank you From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 28 15:25:39 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 15:25:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, pruning Message-ID: Here are some earlier responses to your question: Young trees are pruned sparingly, removing sucker dead limbs are also removed. Allow a young tree to grow a few seasons before trying to achieve symmetry, which it will with age. If you take off the leaves that fuel the tree's production capability, you're limiting your crop. Wait until frost threat is gone and spring growth commences to prune. Pruning mature citrus is more a matter of aesthetics. They require little, other than removing dead wood and thinning inside shoot growth. Again, eliminate all suckers below the bud union. Linda Guy Master Gardener You should not prune off more than 15% from your citrus tree at one time and do not prune off enough so that the limbs or trunk are exposed to sunshine or the tree will get sun burned unless you paint the trunk with water based white paint or wrap with burlap. It would be ok to prune now. Any time you remove foliage or limbs from a plant or tree you reduce its capacity to manufacture food. Check out this website on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener >From: nlfisher001@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:17:00 -0700 (MST) > >what month should lemon trees be pruned and how should you prune them. >thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com From houseofblue@yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 18:45:14 2001 From: houseofblue@yahoo.com (houseofblue@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:45:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281845.fBSIjEn10450@Ag.arizona.edu> Can you send me instructions on how to prune a chilean mesquite? From AZamigo@aol.com Fri Dec 28 18:51:18 2001 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 11:51:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112281851.fBSIpIn11132@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a three year old grapefruit tree planted on my property and was recently told that the application of composted steer manure in addition to the regular application of conventional fertilizer would be benneficial. The tree is roughly 6 feet in diameter and 6.5 feet tall. A basin extends out 6" past the drip line. How much manure should be added, what time of year should it be added and what is the application procedure.Thx-Matthew From valpogrl@aol.com Fri Dec 28 20:01:43 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 13:01:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112282001.fBSK1hn18013@Ag.arizona.edu> Hi, I have a Morning Glory question..and ethics.From what I understand the ban on Morning Glories is based on the invasive quality they carry. I have a friend who plans on planting them in a container. What is the risk? Do I turn her in to some sort of "plant police"? Go over and rip them out? Ignore it? I don't want to be responsible for some sort of kudzu type mess here in AZ. Thanks, Cindy From Roomie71@Aol.com Fri Dec 28 21:19:02 2001 From: Roomie71@Aol.com (Roomie71@Aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 14:19:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112282119.fBSLJ2n26646@Ag.arizona.edu> I have planted serveral oleaders in my yard all the colors. My question is the red oleander has not bloom since I planted them my pink one are blooming all the time. Is there a reason for that.And is there anything I con do to help them bloom ? From alamo@ultrasw.com Sat Dec 29 19:19:45 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 12:19:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spacing Dwarf Nandina Plants Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011229120902.009f47c0@pop3.norton.antivirus> I'd like to replace an irregularly shaped bed of iris in full sun (Tucson street side yard) with a grouping of Dwarf Nandina. I've been looking every winter for several years to find some that develop the lovely rich red winter color and finally found some today in a local nursery. I want them to form, when mature, an informal grouping of separated and distinct (from one another) low "mounds" rather than a massed planting where they all run into one another. How far apart do I want to space them to get the effect I'm after? I.e., how wide should I expect each individual bush to spread? Signa From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 29 20:46:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:46:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses and Frost Message-ID: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula, The freezing that we have here in the low desert will not bother bare root roses unles there is a severe frost which could affect the roses if the canes have started to leaf out. January is the time recommended for planting roses here in the low desert. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,

The freezing that we have here in the low desert will not bother bare root roses unles there is a severe frost which could affect the roses if the canes have started to leaf out. January is the time recommended for planting roses here in the low desert.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian --part1_11b.942bcfe.295f859f_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 29 20:47:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 15:47:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Steer Manure on Citrus Message-ID: <104.e9b44fa.295f85f3@aol.com> --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steer manure is relatively low in nitrogen content (1 to 2 % ) and is more of a soil conditioner than a fertilizer and as such can be beneficial to citrus, but should not be applied on a regular basis because of its high salt content. Winter is the best time to apply manure, however continue to apply chemical fertilizer three to four times a year. I would suggest applying one bag of steer manure to your 6 foot diameter citrus uniformly covering the root zone area. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steer manure is relatively low in nitrogen content (1 to 2 % ) and is more of a soil conditioner than a fertilizer and as such can be beneficial to citrus, but should not be applied on a regular basis because of its high salt content. Winter is the best time to apply manure, however continue to apply chemical fertilizer three to four times a year. I would suggest applying one bag of steer manure to your 6 foot diameter citrus uniformly covering the root zone area.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_104.e9b44fa.295f85f3_boundary-- From gizmoaz@home.com Sun Dec 30 00:19:29 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 17:19:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blood Oranges References: <11b.942bcfe.295f859f@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C2E5D91.ECD06275@home.com> Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here grows Blood Oranges? I am in particular interested in the variety "Ruby Blood Orange". I used my Christmas money and bought a Ruby Blood Orange at Greenfield Citrus nurseries. When I went there, my intent was to buy a Moro Blood Orange. I was informed by the staff at Greenfield that Moro Blood Oranges did not perform as well in our desert climate as they do on the coast, and the Ruby was recommended in place of Moro. I was told it gets much redder than Moro, and produces a much sweeter juice. Anyone care to elaborate or share their experiences with both Blood Oranges in general, and the Ruby Blood Orange, if you have that variety. Thanks, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! -- No matter how fast your PC is, Microsoft will find a way to slow it down From AZamigo@aol.com Sun Dec 30 02:29:46 2001 From: AZamigo@aol.com (AZamigo@aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 19:29:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112300229.fBU2Tkn03448@Ag.arizona.edu> Has anyone had any experience with a spray that makes compost break down faster. It says it heats up the pile and breaks it into smaller pieces- any ideas? From pnine19@msn.com Sun Dec 30 17:15:27 2001 From: pnine19@msn.com (pnine19@msn.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:15:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112301715.fBUHFRn03294@Ag.arizona.edu> Is it possible to grow a apeldoorn tulip in phoenix.What is advised planting and care. From Ceschinone@aol.com Sun Dec 30 17:17:19 2001 From: Ceschinone@aol.com (Ceschinone@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:17:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112301717.fBUHHJn03481@Ag.arizona.edu> /do you have an updated article or information dealing with the pruning of backyard grapes? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 30 17:37:33 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:37:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200112301717.fBUHHJn03481@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001f01c19158$aa97a8e0$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> There is an excellent brochure "Backyard Grapes" (MC 59). You can pick this up for free at either the main office or at one of the satellite offices. If you wish to have them mailed to you, there is a charge of $1.00. The care and pruning of grapes will be covered in either of the upcoming Citrus and Deciduous Fruit Clinics. The location and dates are on our web site at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 10:17 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > /do you have an updated article or information dealing with the pruning of backyard grapes? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Dec 30 20:15:39 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 20:15:39 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tulips Message-ID: Here is some tulip information from the web. Note tulips generally don't grow well in our mild climate (zone 9); may want to try some warm climate bulbs instead of tulips: Mild-winter tulips. If you live where winters rarely or never reach freezing temperatures, tulips likely won't grow all that well. However, you can still grow tulips if you chill them for six to eight weeks before planting (see below). The best choices are Darwin Hybrids or Single Late varieties. The long, strong stems of these tulips are more tolerant of wind and rain, and their midseason blooms appear before hot weather or spring weather. Or consider some of the species tulips that are better suited to milder climates. These include lady or candy tulip (Tulipa clusiana), with rosy red petals that are white inside; Candia tulip (T. saxatilis), with vivid rose-lilac petals and a yellow base; and yellow Florentine (T. sylvestris). These are smaller and less dramatic than hybrid tulips but are still full of tulip character. When and where to plant. Plant tulips any time the soil 6 inches deep is 60�F or colder. As a general guide, plant in September or early October in USDA Climate Hardiness Zones 4 and 5; October to early November in zones 6 and 7; November to early December in zones 8 and 9; and late December to early January in zone 10. In zones 8 through 10, refrigerate tulip bulbs for six to eight weeks before planting. Place them in a paper bag away from ripening fruits (the fruits produce ethylene gas, which destroys the flower bud within the bulb). Tulips grow best in full sun in well-prepared soil with fast drainage. Avoid planting where water collects, or in locations that are prone to late frosts. How to plant. The rule is to plant tulips pointed end up and 6 inches deep, meaning 4 inches of soil above the top of the bulb. Plant a little deeper, to 8 inches, if soil is light or sandy, or if pests such as voles are a problem. Those 2 extra inches put them just out of reach of voles. Deep planting also keeps the bulbs cooler, an advantage in mild-winter areas. >From: pnine19@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 10:15:27 -0700 (MST) > >Is it possible to grow a apeldoorn tulip in phoenix.What is advised >planting and care. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/ar _________________________________________________________________ MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos: http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx From lisacataz@aol.com Sun Dec 30 20:21:56 2001 From: lisacataz@aol.com (lisacataz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 13:21:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302021.fBUKLun14753@Ag.arizona.edu> I have a CA pepper tree that's about 14 years old. I noticed that there are numerous little greenish lumps along the trunk, sort of like leaking sap but not the right color. Is there something wrong with my tree? If so, is there anything I can do to save it? Many thanks, lisa From Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:09:38 2001 From: Sillywilly2632@aol.com (Sillywilly2632@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 16:09:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302309.fBUN9cn26676@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Yuma. Lowes and Home Depot are currently selling bare root roses. If I buy them now, how long can I keep them before planting. When is the best time to plant bare root roses? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:10:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 18:10:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Oleanders not blooming Message-ID: --part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some oleander colors, namely white grow more vigorously than other colors. This may be the case with your oles. Could there be caliche or construction debris or compacted soil around your red oleander? These could affect the growth. You might try a water soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus such as Super Bloom or comparable. Spray on the leaves as well as on the soil. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Some oleander colors, namely white grow more vigorously than other colors. This may be the case with your oles. Could there be caliche or construction debris or compacted soil around your red oleander? These could affect the growth.
You might try a water soluble fertilizer that is high in phosphorus such as Super Bloom or comparable. Spray on the leaves as well as on the soil.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_ce.1f36cb4a.2960f8d5_boundary-- From Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:15:03 2001 From: Sillywilly2632@aol.com (Sillywilly2632@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 16:15:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112302315.fBUNF3n27307@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Yuma. When is the best time to prune roses? Do I fertilize them after prunning? Also what is the best fertilizer to use? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 30 23:29:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 18:29:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] California Pepper Tree Message-ID: <21.16a90c4b.2960fd72@aol.com> --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lisa, It is normal for the California Pepper tree to drip resin. If what you are seeing is something other than normal the tree is very likely under a stress condition which could be caused by Texas Root Rot, heart rot, root knot nematodes or by inadequate irrigation. The best treatment you can give your tree is to be sure that it is deep watered perriodically. Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lisa,

It is normal for the California Pepper tree to drip resin. If what you are seeing is something other than normal the tree is very likely under a stress condition which could be caused by Texas Root Rot, heart rot, root knot nematodes or by inadequate irrigation. The best treatment you can give your tree is to be sure that it is deep watered perriodically.
Check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_21.16a90c4b.2960fd72_boundary-- From umiller@azdps.com Mon Dec 31 11:41:18 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 04:41:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yuma - When to Plant Roses In-Reply-To: <200112302309.fBUN9cn26676@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I had that question, too, just recently since I was concerned about frost. The resounding answer was that January is the time to plant bare root roses in our climate - Sunset Western Garden Climate Zone 13. It seems that roses are pretty hardy and just plain pretty. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Sillywilly2632@aol.com Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:10 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Yuma. Lowes and Home Depot are currently selling bare root roses. If I buy them now, how long can I keep them before planting. When is the best time to plant bare root roses? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kintuit@inficad.com Mon Dec 31 17:11:16 2001 From: kintuit@inficad.com (kintuit@inficad.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:11:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Would like to plant my poinsettia in my yard. How, where, when do I do this and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? From umiller@azdps.com Mon Dec 31 17:59:55 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 10:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Poinsettias In-Reply-To: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Keep your potted plant in a well-lighted place, free of drafts and where temps at night get cool (50 degrees). Keep it moist unless the leaves drop and plant goes dormant. If this happens, give occasional water until spring. Then plant it outside after frost is over next to a south or east-facing wall with an overhang. Fertilize 3x a year, spring, June and fall. They like rich organic soil with good drainage. They can be damaged by light frosts and killed by severe freezes. That's what my dry climate gardening book says. Last year I volunteered at the Poinsettia Festival where the whole afternoon was spent talking about poinsettias while people were buying them. Some of the customers said that they have great luck with planting poinsettias outdoors. I have not had luck with this myself, neither have any of my friends. In fact, I don't remember ever seeing a poinsettia on anybody's property but that doesn't mean they're not there. Maybe they just need more care than most of the rest of us are willing to donate. Some people, in fact, keep them as indoor plants. But that's a REAL hassle (at least to me). To get them to flower the plant needs to be in dark for long hours during the late fall, so people put them in a closet early in the evenings. One person told me that she travels a lot and hires someone to come in and put her poinsettia in the closet. Another person said that he covers his large ones with some kind of tent-like thing that he made for them. Good luck. It's worth a try! Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of kintuit@inficad.com Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 10:11 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Would like to plant my poinsettia in my yard. How, where, when do I do this and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 31 22:24:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 17:24:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rose pruning time Message-ID: <48.44329c9.29623fb3@aol.com> --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Silly Willy, Ursula was right on target when she wrote that January is the time to prune your roses. As for fertilizer, I have used Organo Rose Food for many years with good luck. However there are other fertilizers out there that will probably do as well. I fertilize soon after I finish pruning. Enclosed is an article that I wrote for a newspaper recently on pruning and planting roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian Good luck. --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Silly Willy,

Ursula was right on target when she wrote that January is the time to prune your roses. As for fertilizer, I have used Organo Rose Food for many years with good luck. However there are other fertilizers out there that will probably do as well. I fertilize soon after I finish pruning.

Enclosed is an article that I wrote for a newspaper recently on pruning and planting roses.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian

December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time.
The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose.
You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better.
If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March.
It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds.
It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes.
January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place.
Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians.
Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian

Good luck. --part1_48.44329c9.29623fb3_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Mon Dec 31 23:15:25 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2001 16:15:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re; Would like to plant my poinsettia References: <200112311711.fBVHBGn23163@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c19251$0d0ac360$7c54530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Would like to plant my poinsettia in > my yard. How, where, when do I do this > and how do I keep it alive after planting it?? From "The Valley of the Sun Gardener" newsletter, December 2000 Olin "... Poinsettias always seem to decline after the holidays but they will thrive year after year with proper care. Holiday plants can be set outside in the landscape in late February or early March, after the last frosts. Or cut back and repot in the spring. An ideal landscape location is well-drained and adjacent to a wall that faces south or east, with a large overhang. First reduce watering to about once a week to induce dormancy. Wait to transplant until the bracts and some leaves drop. Prune back about halfway. They will color again only after experiencing long-night conditions, sheltered from all light for about 14 hours a day starting in October." From StevCatAlxMar@aol.com Sat Dec 1 01:48:26 2001 From: StevCatAlxMar@aol.com (StevCatAlxMar@aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:48:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Queen Palms with yellow fronds Message-ID: <11d.8376b40.293990ea@aol.com> --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend. Happy holidays, Steve Joseph (623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thank you for your help. Is there a reasonably priced certified arborist in the Peoria area that you could recommend.
Happy holidays,
Steve Joseph
(623) 334-4702 --part1_11d.8376b40.293990ea_boundary-- From c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net Sat Dec 1 05:46:17 2001 From: c.h.laughlin@worldnet.att.net (Charles Laughlin) Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 21:46:17 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Whoops! Message-ID: <000c01c17a2b$8043e480$1743530c@compaq> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Dear LADIES and Gentlemen: Please accept my sincere=20 apologies for major boo-boo - addressing my questions to only "gentlemen" - this was certainly an unintentional exclusion of people I love! Sincerely, Charles Laughlin ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C179E8.7124DF60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear LADIES and Gentlemen:

Please accept my sincere=20

apologies for major boo-boo -

addressing my questions to only

"gentlemen" - this was certainly

an unintentional exclusion of

people I love! = Sincerely,

= =20 Charles Laughlin

Regards,
-----
Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13

http://www.gizmoaz.com
Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!!
Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!!

KLH718@aol.com wrote:

I have 2 rose bushes, next to each other, in my front yard (south facing) that both "blow out" their flowers within 1 day. In other words, they go from beautiful, promising, exciting almost-budding stage in the morning to over-blown flower by the end of the day. If I pick the bud & bring it inside, it does the same thing.
Is there anything to be done?
thanks ! ! !
and, can you please put me on your mailing list?
Thanks

Dear=20 Rod,

Try

http://www.reemay.co= m/biobarrier/index.html

Regards

steve

I'm sure like many of you, you're waiting for = your green=20 tomatoes to ripen.... Has anyone experimented with using remay atop to = speed=20 things, and putting red objects amongst the leaves?

Hi all

Thanks

Shana Coontz

---
Outgoing mail is certified = Virus=20 Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: = 6.0.303 /=20 Virus Database: 164 - Release Date: 11/24/01

------=_NextPart_000_0077_01C17D9F.DC5F7500-- From mmb@storyteller.net Wed Dec 5 23:35:58 2001 From: mmb@storyteller.net (Michelle B) Date: Wed, 05 Dec 2001 16:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cantaloupes Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready to be picked? I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in the desert! Michelle in Avondale ****************************************** We Hate Snoring http://www.wehatesnoring.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 5 23:43:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Dec 2001 18:43:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass is spotty Message-ID: <18.16840982.29400b39@aol.com> --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation. Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because of the warm temperatures remaining throughout most of November even the ex[perts who recommend an approximate ryegrass planting time of October 15 to November 15 found that the bermuda was still growing strong on November 15. Consequently the bermuda tended to crowd out the ryegrass planting which has left many bare spots now that the bermuda has gone into hybernation.

Just checked my soil temperature and found it to be about 10 degrees under the low mid 60 degrees which is considered the low for good germination of ryegrass seed. I suspect that reseeding now would not yield a very good stand of grass if any.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener
--part1_18.16840982.29400b39_boundary-- From isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us Thu Dec 6 13:55:53 2001 From: isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us (isalyd@icoe.k12.ca.us) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 06:55:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112061355.fB6DtrB05949@Ag.arizona.edu> 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Dec 6 21:17:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 16:17:22 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . --part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen.

Good luck

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener .

--part1_c9.19b87b13.29413a62_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Dec 6 22:26:51 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 15:26:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ryegrass, fertilizing Message-ID: <007201c17ea5$2d1d8ee0$ae51530c@j0r9501> The AZ Republic article paraphrases the Cooperative Extension's December "Timely Tips" recommendation at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/dec.htm which states: "Fertilize winter lawns monthly with ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate. Use 1/4 pound per 1,000 square feet as needed to maintain good color (usually once every three weeks)." Perhaps this "Timely Tip" should be clarified as Rod suggested to specify either actual nitrogen or the equivalent in ammonium nitrate. It may not be necessary to include potassium nitrate or calcium nitrate, neither of which is easy to find locally. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > 12/5/01 AZ Republic pg6, 'Gardener's to-do list said use 1/4 pound of ammonium nitrate per 1,000 sqft on winter lawns. is that correct? a quarter pound would result in one grain of fertlizer to about a square foot. thank u doug isaly ----- Original Message ----- From: >> I assume that the article that you read intended to say that 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen is required. U. of A. publications recommend 1/4 pound of > actual nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. in December which translates to 3/4 pounds > of amonium nitrate which has 33% nitrogen. > > Good luck > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Dec 6 21:27:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 14:27:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112052011.fB5KBtB07680@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: I wouldn't cut anything off now for the just the reason you gave. I usually wait until March to start trimming again. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, but a Bougainvillea Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2001 1:12 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My bouganvillias have many flowers but as these fall off there is a bare stem left. During warm time periods I understand you cut these stems off to promote more growth. Is there a concern cutting these stems off at this time period because of the cold and potential freeze at night. I live in the Mesa area, east side. Thanks you for your time. Ron _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Rubberducky55@aol.com Fri Dec 7 00:10:32 2001 From: Rubberducky55@aol.com (Rubberducky55@aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Dec 2001 19:10:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] URGENT....what type Message-ID: --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project.... Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi I'm doing a research project on hybrid plants and the three plants I am mainly focusing on are: Variegated Algerian Ivy, Super Dwarf Mondo grass, and a hydrangea specifically a Hydrangea macrophylla-hortensia type. Do you have any imformation on any of these plants. It would be so helpful even if you can only tell me what kind of hybrid these plants come from. Thank you so much!!!! Please respond since this is a project....
Amanda --part1_c1.182c0d75.294162f8_boundary-- From paul_widman@hotmail.com Fri Dec 7 20:53:39 2001 From: paul_widman@hotmail.com (paul_widman@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 7 Dec 2001 13:53:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. From crymer@Ag.arizona.edu Fri Dec 7 21:53:30 2001 From: crymer@Ag.arizona.edu (Cathy Rymer) Date: Fri, 07 Dec 2001 14:53:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200112072053.fB7Krdq16754@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20011207144756.009ccf00@ag.arizona.edu> Paul, Ultrasonic pest control devices have been proven ineffective for pest control. Trapping and fumigants are still the most reliable for the control of pocket gophers. The urban integrated pest management web site for the University of Arizona continues to post research based information as they expand this resource. They have detailed information in the vertebrate pest section on gopher control. Take a look at http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/rodents/pocketgophers.html I believe it will help you with your problems. Kind regards, Cathy At 01:53 PM 12/07/2001 -0700, paul_widman@hotmail.com wrote: >Any ideas on getting read of gophers? My yard backs to an abandoned >citrus orchard. We have had constant problems with gophers. I have tried >ultrasonic stakes, poison, flooding, and traps. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Sr., Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ From DAnde25974@aol.com Sun Dec 9 05:33:44 2001 From: DAnde25974@aol.com (DAnde25974@aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Dec 2001 22:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? From jray59@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 16:35:35 2001 From: jray59@earthlink.net (jray59@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:35:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW BASIC CARE OF CUT MISTLETOE AND HOW TO PRESERVE THRU HOLIDAYS??? From johnacarver@yahoo.com Sun Dec 9 17:26:17 2001 From: johnacarver@yahoo.com (John Carver) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 09:26:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the base. There is a soft depression where that nail used to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. I would like to know if this problem is due to watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and with what material? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com From swoodr7697@aol.com Sun Dec 9 17:31:07 2001 From: swoodr7697@aol.com (swoodr7697@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 10:31:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091731.fB9HV7q23457@Ag.arizona.edu> where can i buy large quantity of 'tree seedlings' to create forest on 8 acres, carefree? which trees are most suitable/hardy for above zone (mountainous?)for large shade? thxs! sw From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Sun Dec 9 18:05:01 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 11:05:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... References: <20011209172617.92566.qmail@web12807.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002b01c180dc$06c02260$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> Hi John! Queen palms do not do well in the low desert. They like acidic soils; we have alkaline soils. They like high humidity; we have low humidity. The hot dry winds tend to whip the fronds and they get wind burnt, which gives them a tattered look. They do not like the high heat or the cold that we have in the Valley. They are temperamental and very demanding and with the best of care, they still do not do well. The Queen Palm is a native of the Amazon tropics where the weather is not at all like we have Queen Palms are especially sensitive to manganese deficiency. Manganese deficiency (sometimes called frizzle top) manifests itself by producing new fronds that are stunted and deformed. This is a potentially fatal disease if left untreated. If it is determined that the tree is suffering from a manganese deficiency, manganese sulfate (Epsom salts) at the rate of two to four pounds per tree. This should be broadcast evenly under the canopy. DO NOT apply any closer to the trunk than twelve inches, if you do you could damage the root initiation zone. Here is a link to our publication "Arizona Landscape Palms (AZ10210'. Page 5 of this publication gives watering and fertilizing directions for palms. Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Carver" To: Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2001 10:26 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... > I have a Queen Palm in my front yard and live in the > groves section of Mesa AZ. The new growth fronds never > reach mature size without shriveling at the tips and > there is much 'yellowing' at the edges of all of the > fronds.I have lived here for six months and previous > owner put a nail in the trunk at five feet from the > base. There is a soft depression where that nail used > to be. The total height of the tree is about 13 feet. > I would like to know if this problem is due to > watering or lack of some nutrient. Also how can I > treat the wound on the trunk? Should it be patched and > with what material? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Send your FREE holiday greetings online! > http://greetings.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 18:53:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 13:53:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm problems... Message-ID: <4b.14f9dc20.29450d10@aol.com> --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John, From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment. Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically. Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit John,

From the symptoms that you describe, it sounds like your Queen palm has a nutrient dificiency namely manganese, there may be other dificiencies also. With a severe dificiency which this sounds like I suggest that you have a certified arborist look at this palm for an appraisal and a course of treatment.

Palms should be fertilized several times a year with a special palm fertilizer as well as being deep watered periodically.

Here are several sites which can be of help, one a list of certified arborists, one about adequate irrigation and one about palm trees:

http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist

--part1_4b.14f9dc20.29450d10_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 19:12:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 14:12:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <3b.1eafafec.294511b6@aol.com> --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/ Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Check out the website of the Arizona Community Tree Council, they will be able to direct you to the proper state department that sells seedling trees. http://aztrees.org/

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_3b.1eafafec.294511b6_boundary-- From pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com Sun Dec 9 19:24:47 2001 From: pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com (pritzlfoodog@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 12:24:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112091924.fB9JOlq18393@Ag.arizona.edu> We are planning in putting in grass in a currently hard pack dirt area of our yard about 20 feet by 15 feet. What do we need to do to prepare the soil to lay sod. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Dec 9 23:29:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 18:29:52 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf, soil preparation Message-ID: --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The Master Gardener Manual has the info that you need to prepare the soil and to care for your new turf and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_a8.31bc623.29454df0_boundary-- From dtb@uswestmail.net Mon Dec 10 04:19:44 2001 From: dtb@uswestmail.net (dtb@uswestmail.net) Date: Sun, 9 Dec 2001 21:19:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112100419.fBA4Jiq02838@Ag.arizona.edu> I would like to cover a 100 foot block wall that faces west with full sun. The wall is 10 foot from the pool area. Would some type of vines be practical? I don't have irrigation available. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Dec 10 13:01:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2001 06:01:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Are ants the worms of the desert? References: <000001c17cee$bc484c80$5aaa3604@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3C14B236.98F9CDC7@qwest.net> --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years. Also, I've dissimilar experience with the worms based on the microclimates of my beds. The ones that are more shaded particularly in the winter are teeming with very large worms very close to the surface of the soil which is exceedingly crumbly. So much so that it almost lasts the duration of the summer. The worms obviously go deeper in the heat of summer, less deep when there is some shade. Seems to be a function of shade/cool and consistent incorporation of organic matter. Linda Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of > organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less > extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where > there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my > gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most > of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What > I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same > aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb > texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course > there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk --------------E14DE4E67FA1C8131A587B87 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't have an answer on the ants' benefit, so I'm curious to know what reply you received from your OG server posting of this question. In my experience ants almost seem to 'farm' the aphids and can do a good deal of damage as a result in some years.

Linda

Jonathan Kandell wrote:

Although desert soil eventually gets worms after several years of organic amendment, there will be many fewer worms than you see in less extreme climates, they are smaller, and they tend to go deeper where there is more moisture and less heat. I've had a lot of ants in my gardens, and, of course, some are devestating. In my experience most of them don't seem to do any harm, other than protecting aphids. What I'm now wondering is whether ants perform in arid climates the same aerating function that worms perform elsewhere, helping create a crumb texture and allowing water to go deeper into the soil. Of course there's no ant-castings, or is there? jk

Linda Guy, MG

Shana Coontz wrote:

Hi all I have watched the discussion about Brookbank's "Desert Gardening", and I wonder whether there are any obvious differences in climate or growing conditions between Tucson and Bullhead City, AZ. We are farther north but are in the Colorado River valley, at sea level. Temperatures reach 125 degrees during the summer. Is this less or more severe than Tucson? And do Tucson yards consist of sand, the way mine does? The reason I ask is that I have just ordered Brookbank's book, and I would like some idea of what differences I may have to keep in mind. Thanks Shana Coontz
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Linda Guy, MG
Phoenix, AZ, USA

Micki Pelser wrote:

Hi Linda

Not knowing much about my newly acquired garden, I was wondering if you could help me.

I live in Cape Town � South Africa and recently bought 3 kalanchoe plants from my local nursery.
The label says that the plants require full sunlight, sandy soil and minimal watering, but from what I�ve found on the Internet these plants seem to be better off indoors or at least out of direct sunlight.
Are the growing requirements different for different countries or should I change nurseries? Can you help me please?

Thank you
Micki

Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)

dbmurray@msn.com wrote:

I want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also want to know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

Christopher Jones, Extension Agent =
Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs =

The University of Arizona =
Gila County Cooperative Extension
1177=20 Monroe Street
Globe, AZ = 85501=20

Ph: (520) 425-7179
FAX: (520) 425-0265
E-mail:=20 ckjones@ag.arizona.edu

-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of Barbara = Cenalmor
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 8:08 = AM
To:=20 dbmurray@msn.com
Cc: = arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu
Subject:=20 Re: [Arid_gardener] Using bleach

Bleach is a cleaning product that has chlorine as a main = ingredient. =20 Even though I don't know the exact "biological" process by which it = kills a=20 plant, you can just imagine that no living thing likes to be doused in = chlorine. I don't know if there is a very low concentration of = bleach=20 that may not kill a plant, but swimming pool water, which doesn't have = a large=20 concentration of chlorine seems to kill plants. Why do you want = to=20 expose a plant to bleach? Are there any benefits I don't know = of?=20
Barbara Cenalmor (Master Gardener)=20
dbmurray@msn.com wrote:=20 I=20 want to know information on bleach and how it kills plants? I also = want to=20 know if some of the plants would not die if they were exposed to=20 = bleach?

_______________________________________________
Arid_ga= rdener=20 mailing=20 = list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/lis= tinfo/arid_gardener

Do You Yahoo!?
Check out Yahoo!=20 Shopping and Yahoo!=20 Auctions for all of your holiday gifts! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C18225.50748960-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 13:53:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 06:53:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lime trees References: <000401c17a94$42029ae0$8ce3fea9@5s3iy> Message-ID: <3C176168.F2491686@qwest.net> Mr. Bishop, Here is a reply from Dr. Glenn Wright who is the citrus specialist at UA. I had asked him some questions about citrus coloring, in general, as it related to temperature, as well as your specific inquiry. Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. Linda Guy, MG Leonard Bishop wrote: > Can anyone tell me why bears limes turn yellow in late November? Is it > because it is not fertilized properly or is it a natural function of the > tree. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Dec 12 14:21:54 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 07:21:54 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees]] Message-ID: <3C176802.22D0A711@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dr. Glenn Wright gave me a brief tutorial on citrus coloring which I thought you'd all appreciate. Thanks Dr. Glenn! --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 20626 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mail4.uswest.net) (63.226.138.4) by mpls-mailin-03.inet.qwest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:04 -0000 Received: (qmail 34244 invoked by uid 0); 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO Ag.arizona.edu) (150.135.40.100) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 11 Dec 2001 15:57:02 -0000 Received: from Lemonhead.ag.arizona.edu (Lemon.YMF.Arizona.EDU [206.207.135.3]) by Ag.arizona.edu (8.10.2+Sun/8.11.2) with ESMTP id fBBFuw922559 for ; Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 (MST) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 08:56:58 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20011211085631.03680ec0@127.0.0.1> From: "Glenn C. Wright" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sender: gwright/ag.arizona.edu@127.0.0.1 X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.1 Subject: Re: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] lime trees] In-Reply-To: <3C14AD02.44B61FDC@qwest.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 At 05:39 AM 12/10/2001 -0700, you wrote: >This is one example of a few we've be getting apropos citrus coloring, >timing thereof, color as an indication of ripeness [I thought it was an >indication of cold hours, based on an article Lucy published in the >Republic some time ago]. Can you give me a little tutorial which would >probably be great to share on the arid gardener server as well. Your >time permitting, of course. > >Thanks in advance. > >Linda >Hi Linda: > >You are correct in assuming that citrus change color in relation to >temperature. When air and soil temperatures drop below 15C (59F), >chlorophyll is degraded, and chloroplasts in the peel are converted to >chromoplasts which contain yellow, orange or red pigments. This may not >necessarily be a direct effect of temperature as it is entirely possible >that the cool temperatures affect the roots, which in turn affect >production of plant hormones located there, which then are transported >upwards and initiate the degradation process in the peels. Lemons, for >example are artificially colored in the packinghouse using the gaseous >plant hormone ethylene. It is also well known that pre-harvest >applications of gibberellins will retard coloration. > >Tree vigor also affects peel coloration. Vigorously growing trees, or >trees that have been heavily fertilized with nitrogen, will have poorer >coloration than slower growing trees. > >Specifically regarding the question, the Bearss lime fruit turns yellow as >part of the normal maturation process, as do other lime cultivars, lemons >and grapefruit. It is always somewhat humorous to me that the consumer >expects a mature lemon fruit to be yellow, but is surprised when the >mature lime fruit does the same. I suppose that this response is a >testimony to the lime marketers and promoters who have ingrained the >consumer with the idea that a mature lime should be green. > >Thanks for asking. > >GCW Glenn C. Wright, Ph.D. Associate Research Scientist and Citrus Specialist University of Arizona Yuma Mesa Agriculture Center Route 1, Box 40M Somerton, AZ 85350 Phone: 928-726-0458 FAX: 928-726-1363 e-mail: gwright@ag.arizona.edu --------------53BF34085E30A397A8A3341E-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Dec 13 00:01:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 17:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: palm info References: Message-ID: <3C17EFC2.A8CEE4A9@qwest.net> I would try again. Sometimes the server is down. If you still cannot access it, you can go to the top of the publications page, you will see instructions for requesting a copy by mail. Linda Guy, MG Elaine Hegstrom wrote: > My neighborhood is interested in transplanting some free palms. i tried to access the palm info, but could not. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf > > How can I get this info? > > Elaine Hegstrom > 328 N. Country club > Tucson 85716 From dwsmyers@msn.com Fri Dec 14 15:19:30 2001 From: dwsmyers@msn.com (dwsmyers@msn.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112141519.fBEFJU922856@Ag.arizona.edu> I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me someone to contact? Thanks, Dan From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Dec 14 23:47:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 23:47:22 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, grapefruit not thriving Message-ID: I would check the trunk at the ground level. Make sure that the trunk is not in contact with soil -- this can happen over time as soil washes in around the tree. You should see lateral roots an inch or so below the surface -- if you have to dig deeper, pull the extra soil out away from the trunk. Keep the trunk free of dirt and avoid prolonged contact with water. Let us know if this doesn't appear to be a problem with your grapefruit tree. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dwsmyers@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 08:19:30 -0700 (MST) > >I live in Avondale and have seven fully grown citrus trees. All are doing >well except for one Ruby Red Grapefurit Tree. It is a 15year old tree that >has been very healthy until about 5 months ago. The leaves are yellowing >and dropping off. The trunk is cracking and showing signs of bugs in the >bark. I have no idea of what to do next. Can you advise me? Or give me >someone to contact? Thanks, Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 15 21:07:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 16:07:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Raywood Ash Message-ID: <173.d27e62.294d158d@aol.com> --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit On a newly planted tree do not remove anything except dead or damaged branches for at least two years and never at any time top a tree unless it was planted under utility lines and is growing into the lines. In that case an arborist should be called in to do the job.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_173.d27e62.294d158d_boundary-- From jennaz31@aol.com Sun Dec 16 01:04:00 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:04:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> I have 2 questions: The first is about my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? Second, I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. Thanks for your help. Jenn From s2@arcworldwide.com Sun Dec 16 01:50:57 2001 From: s2@arcworldwide.com (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1BFE01.E3C935BB@auroranow.org> Hi gardeners, Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got a bit too frostbitten. I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how to handle the damage on these: lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with several completely browned branches/dead leaves) Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are flopped. I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as well. Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. -- Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. Vice President, Communications & Technology ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org ===================================================== "I became convinced we are here for each other." -- R. Buckminster Fuller From cmiliti7@aol.com Sun Dec 16 07:21:34 2001 From: cmiliti7@aol.com (cmiliti7@aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2001 02:21:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] wasps and grapes Message-ID: --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps? corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit We have sweet seedless grapes and wasps are attracted to them and suck the juice out of them, we also have small children and worry about them getting stung, the nests are not on our property, what can we do to save the grapes and not have the wasps?
corrado --part1_c5.1af5e183.294da57e_boundary-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Dec 17 00:08:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 00:08:44 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... Message-ID: Yes, it has certainly been chilly the last week or so. Sounds like you already know what to do -- leave the damaged plants alone until growth begins again in the spring. Then you will be able to see how extensive the frost damage is. The frozen parts also help to protect growth underneath -- we can expect at least a couple more cold nights this week, before the warming begins at the end of the week. Not sure there is anything you can do for the aloe and cactus -- just watch and see how much damage they have sustained. Linda Drew Master Gardener (Tucson) >From: Sherryl Stalinski >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] frosty the cactus... >Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2001 18:50:57 -0700 > >Hi gardeners, >Well I finally was brave enough today to venture away from my fireplace >and see what this last week of continual frost has done to my landscape. > >Obviously, we get a bit colder out here in southern Avra Valley outside >Tucson than in the city. I definitely have some plants & shrubs that got >a bit too frostbitten. > >I think most of them will recover in the spring and I haven't pruned, so >the larger shrubs still have green underneath, but I'd like to know how >to handle the damage on these: > >lantana (just prune back damage in the spring?) >yellow bells (same thing? how far can I prune... these are pretty open >and airy and the whole 10 foot bushes are now dark green/burgundy, with >several completely browned branches/dead leaves) > >Cape honeysuckle--was green and in full bloom a week ago, young one >planted last spring, about 3' tall, pretty brown/red now. > >What about the aloes? 2 weeks ago, 3 of mine decided to surprise me with >a winter bloom, which are now limped over, and some of the leaves are >flopped. > >I have a beavertail cactus that seems to have 'limped' and shriveled as >well. > >Also, my salvia leucantha (mex. bush sage) looks pretty sad as does my >buddleia (davidii) although that I know I can prune back hard. > >I think we'll go to Michigan where it's warm for the holidays. >-- >Sherryl Stalinski, M.A. >Vice President, Communications & Technology >ARC Worldwide -- http://www.arcworldwide.com >Tucson office: (520) 578-2801 || page me online at AOL-IM: AuroraS2 > >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >===================================================== >"I became convinced we are here for each other." > -- R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp. From HeatherF19@aol.com Mon Dec 17 05:24:05 2001 From: HeatherF19@aol.com (HeatherF19@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 00:24:05 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 Message-ID: <200112170431.fBH4V4L15646@mail5.registeredsite.com> To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: HeatherF19@aol.com () Subject: Hey there 206769348 Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by (HeatherF19@aol.com) on Monday, December 17, 2001 at 00:24:05 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- msg: Hi, my name is Heather and I am a 19 year old female from San Diego, California. Ever since my 14th birthday, I have been really sexually active, but I am still a virgin. Now I am 19 and away from home, attending school at San Diego State University and sharing a dorm with four of my girlfriends and are all VERY turned on to meet a guy and satisfy ALL of his pleasures. To see our sexy pictures we took just last week and to meet some other couples, go to our site
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764789641 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Dec 17 22:16:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:16:08 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Roses Message-ID: <176.eaf03b.294fc8a8@aol.com> --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn, If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially. As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jenn,

If you live in the low desert of Arizona (Maricopa County) the time to prune your roses is in January. Cecile Brunner is a polyantha, you no doubt have a climbing polyantha, and is an everbloomer. Again if you live in the low desert your roses will have two good bloom periods each year, one in April and one in November, after the April bloom because of our desert heat the quality and quantity of blooms decreases substantially.
As for your tomatoes, don't expect any growth from them until the temperatures are much warmer. You will need to cover them to keep them from freezing during these colder nights.

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener

--part1_176.eaf03b.294fc8a8_boundary-- From bethskoff@aol.com Tue Dec 18 03:05:22 2001 From: bethskoff@aol.com (bethskoff@aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:05:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? From srogerssprint5@earthlink.net Tue Dec 18 03:23:11 2001 From: srogerssprint5@earthlink.net (Scott Rogers) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 20:23:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo not leafing out References: <200112180305.fBI35Mn21121@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000501c18773$53d8f200$dcc50142@phoenix.speedchoice.com> The normal state for an ocotillo is "no leaves". If you bought a bare root plant, it can exist for up to two years before it re-roots. Roots need to grow in its new location before it leafs out. Have patience. it was 17 months before the bare root Ocotillo I planted had leaves. If you look at the swollen part just above the roots it will show some green underneath and/or between the bark furrows if it is still alive Scott Rogers MG ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, December 17, 2001 8:05 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > I planted an Ocotillo last March and it still has no leaves on it. How long could it take before it gets leaves? How do I know if it's still alive? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From clydic@theriver.com Tue Dec 18 04:49:31 2001 From: clydic@theriver.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2001 21:49:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 In-Reply-To: <200112170431.fBH4V4L15646@mail5.registeredsite.com> Message-ID: How DOES this boloney get thru our server???????? -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.arizona.edu]On Behalf Of HeatherF19@aol.com Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2001 10:24 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hey there 206769348 To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu From: HeatherF19@aol.com () Subject: Hey there 206769348 Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted by (HeatherF19@aol.com) on Monday, December 17, 2001 at 00:24:05 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- msg: Hi, my name is Heather and I am a 19 year old female from San Diego, California. Ever since my 14th birthday, I have been really sexually active, but I am still a virgin. Now I am 19 and away from home, attending school at San Diego State University and sharing a dorm with four of my girlfriends and are all VERY turned on to meet a guy and satisfy ALL of his pleasures. To see our sexy pictures we took just last week and to meet some other couples, go to our site
http://www.lllil.com/heather/ livewebcam

764789641 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Ranger1242@aol.com Tue Dec 18 12:58:09 2001 From: Ranger1242@aol.com (Ranger1242@aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 05:58:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 13:23:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 06:23:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Problem ID References: <200112181258.fBICw9n13082@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F4360.9910BE6B@qwest.net> Could it be possible that it is a type of scale? To read up on treatment options for this miniscule pest on the UA's Urban Pest Management website, consult: http://ag.arizona.edu/urbanipm/insects/scaleinsects.html Linda Guy, MG Ranger1242@aol.com wrote: > On the leaves of a mature grapefruit tree, I notice some black splotches. These don't rub off like a mold, and look like black paint drops. Is this harmful and how do I control it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Dec 18 16:21:36 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 09:21:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Green Tomatoes/Cecile Brunner Clmbing Rose References: <200112160104.fBG140903350@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <006601c187e0$fd54c620$9d51530c@j0r9501> In the low desert, if your tomatoes are still green they will most likely not change color until about February when the days become longer and the daytime temps are warmer. Meanwhile, you will need to protect the plants from frost. We have a few plants in containers that are beginning to ripen very slowly but the tomatoes out in the garden are still very green. A Google search turns up lots of sites about Cecile Brunner but none seem to address your specific questions. We have a number of experienced rosarians on this list who will, hopefully, respond to those questions. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: >... >... my tomato bush---it is green and loaded with green tomatos. It is located on the east side of the house and I'm beginning to wonder if they will ever ripen---is it too late now? > >...I have two Cecile Brunner that have been growing gang busters, just about covering our arbor in one growing season. It is almost out of hand so I wondered if I could cut back some of the canes or if I should wait and is this climber supposed to bloom continuously? Mine did great for the spring and then it stopped and only once and while would I see a pink flower. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:49:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:49:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Preserving mistletoe References: <200112091635.fB9GZZq15100@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9DDB.75FCDB60@qwest.net> I found some information on preserving mistletoe on the Net. You can view this PDF file by going to: http://hgic.clemson.edu/PDF/HGIC1151.pdf Sue Bass > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:52:28 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Corn and Sunflowers together References: <200112090533.fB95Xiq13439@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C1F9E7C.963A67F9@qwest.net> You can view an archived answer to a previous question about planting sunflowers and corn together at the following link to our archives: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003819.html Sue Bass DAnde25974@aol.com wrote: > Can I plant my sunflowers and corn together in the same row (alternate corn, sunflower, corn, etc.)? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Dec 18 19:54:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 12:54:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] How to tell when cantaloupes are ripe References: <4.3.2.7.2.20011205162941.00b9b9b0@mail.storyteller.net> Message-ID: <3C1F9F07.48020FF1@qwest.net> You can view a response to a similar question on how to tell when cantaloupes are ripe by going to our archives. The following link will take you directly to the previous response on this subject: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-September/008727.html Sue Bass Michelle B wrote: > I have a self-planted cantaloupe in my garden. Two fruits, one about 4" > diameter, the other about 5". How does one know when a cantaloupe is ready > to be picked? > > I learn much from reading the arid gardener daily posts, I am happy to have > found this list. Thank you to all who share their knowledge of planting in > the desert! > > Michelle in Avondale > ****************************************** > We Hate Snoring > http://www.wehatesnoring.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed Dec 19 00:06:03 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (steve.sheard@motorola.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 17:06:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112190006.fBJ063n14185@Ag.arizona.edu> I hear that trees are a roses worst enemy, because of shade and because their roots invade the rose's roots. How do I plant a climbing rose if I want it to grow into a tree? I am considering Mermaid into a Chinese Elm tree. From lbradley@sisna.com Tue Dec 18 18:10:03 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2001 11:10:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011218110137.01db9e90@ag.arizona.edu> Watershed Information Daniel Salzler No. 97 azwatershed@aol.com December 14, 2001 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Fifteen Items<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< 6. Catnip's Powerful Aroma Repels Mosquitoes. Mosquitoes hate the aroma of common garden catnip (Nepeta cataria), new research shows. And not only are the extracts safe, they are more effective than Diethyl-m-toluamide, or DEET, the chemical used in most commercial insect repellents. Catnip is one of several plants used in folk medicine to ward off insects, but most people turn to DEET when they want serious deterrence. Now researchers at Iowa State University, Ames, have shown that a relatively weak solution of catnip extract repels mosquitoes as effectively as a DEET solution ten times more concentrated. "We haven't yet tested whether it will work against mosquitoes when on human skin," says Coats. "But our results are directly relevant to repellency on things like clothing and tents." "Anything that is as good or better than DEET is welcome, because DEET has some side effects,"says Ribeiro. DEET is classified as "moderately toxic" by EPA and can harm birds, fish and aquatic invertebrates. However, the EPA believes it does not present a health concern to the general US population. For more information, go online to http://www.newscientist.com/news/news.jsp?id=ns99991199 . Important Christmas Tree Safety Tips If your Christmas tree is live or cut: * Select only fresh trees. Look for one that is green, and that has needles that bend and not break. The needles should be hard to pull off of the branches. * As soon as the tree is brought home, saw off no more than one inch of the trunk and place the tree in a sturdy water holding stand. * Make sure the stand is kept full of water so that it does not dry out. * Stand your tree away from fireplaces, radiators, televisions and other heat sources. * Only use indoor lights on your tree, check lights to see that the cords and connections are in good working order. Be careful not to use more than three light sets per extension cord. Unplug lights when going to bed or when leaving home. Copyright d. salzler. 2001 -------------------------------------------------- Colleagues: if you would like to receive this newsletter as a pdf file, please request: <> From mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu Wed Dec 19 19:36:13 2001 From: mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu (mark.rosati@pcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 12:36:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112191936.fBJJaDn04822@Ag.arizona.edu> I am interested in planting black table grapes in a Phoenix garden. What varieties are recommended and where ccan I purchase them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Dec 19 21:37:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:37:53 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree Message-ID: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve, One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. Good luck. Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Steve,

One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea.

Good luck.

Rod --part1_31.1fb930c3.295262b1_boundary-- From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 22:30:21 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 15:30:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that would hurt the tree or not. -- A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Steve, > > One option would be to plant the rose in a pot and set the > pot beside the tree. The other option would be to plant the > rose in the ground beside the tree, and since the tree's > feeder roots are near the drip line of the tree the rose > might survive without interferance from the tree roots. I' > ve never tried it so at this point it is only an idea. > > Good luck. > > Rod From gizmoaz@home.com Wed Dec 19 23:00:01 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:00:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> <3C2114FD.5EEAB5DC@home.com> Message-ID: <3C211BF1.6DB8C287@home.com> I should clarify...I'm talking about the black nursery buckets for putting plants in. You can get them at Lowes, or...I have a couple of extra's. I would be willing to donate one to the cause, if you are interested Steve. -- Errymay ristmaschay andway appyhay ewnay earyay." - Pig Latin Christmas ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://www.gizmoaz.com Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! GizmoAZ wrote: > What if he got a big 15 gallon bucket, and dug a hole in the > ground big enough to hold the 15 gallon bucket, then planted > the rose in the bucket. This would keep the tree's roots from > becoming invasive to the rose. He may have to remove some > roots of the tree to accomplish this. I'm not sure if that > would hurt the tree or not. > -- > A few too many lights out in his Christmas tree. > ----- > Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 > > http://www.gizmoaz.com > Over 200 Roses and 125 Different varieties! Never a dull > moment!! > Check out the Garden Cams on Saturday and Sunday!! > From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Dec 19 23:47:59 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 16:47:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses, Planting beside a tree References: <31.1fb930c3.295262b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <006601c188e8$db8c9be0$3e50530c@j0r9501> We have a Lady Banks planted about 7 feet southeast of the trunk of an African sumac tree. It was about at the edge of the canopy when we planted it a some years ago but now is well under the tree. We had planned to train it on an arbor (like Tucson) but while we weren't watching it took off up into the tree and now most of the rose's foliage is in the tree, probably trying to grow toward the light source. Kinda messy looking. So I would think the lack of light would be a greater concern than root competition. But it would probably also depend on the type of tree and its root system. Olin From lbradley@sisna.com Thu Dec 20 00:56:56 2001 From: lbradley@sisna.com (Lucy Bradley) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2001 17:56:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Farmers Markets and You Pick Farms Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20011219175457.01e54b28@ag.arizona.edu> >* A new printed revision of the listing of direct marketers of fresh >fruits and vegetables in Maricopa County is available from their office at >4341 E Broadway Rd, Phoenix. The updated edition lists 15 community >farmers markets and 19 direct seller of produce located from Wickenberg to >Queen Creek. Or on the web at > From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:10:06 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:10:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211710.fBLHA6n28289@Ag.arizona.edu> From mariabostic@msn.com Fri Dec 21 17:14:18 2001 From: mariabostic@msn.com (mariabostic@msn.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 10:14:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112211714.fBLHEIn29015@Ag.arizona.edu> re Queen Palms Help! watering needs all seasons as well as fertilizing etc., for Chandler, AZ also, how do I retrieve your publication? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Dec 21 18:17:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:17:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care Message-ID: <154.6249c60.2954d6a7@aol.com> --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Queen palms are not well adapted to our low desert environment, hence it is important that they are watered adequately and fertilized three to four times a year with a special palm fertilizer. The bulletin Arizona Landscape Palms is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf
Also check out this site for info on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener --part1_154.6249c60.2954d6a7_boundary-- From ram6260@yahoo.com Fri Dec 21 19:09:19 2001 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 11:09:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <20011221190919.39673.qmail@web13808.mail.yahoo.com> I have planted eight Ficus trees along my back wall with the intention of completely hiding the wall. They are planted 15 ft apart. They are doing quite well after 3yrs but they still do not meet together to cover the wall. Would it help or hurt the health of tree to "top" them in order to encourage lateral growth instead of upward growth? Thanks. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Check out Yahoo! Shopping and Yahoo! Auctions for all of your unique holiday gifts! Buy at http://shopping.yahoo.com or bid at http://auctions.yahoo.com From vinham@aol.com Fri Dec 21 20:52:44 2001 From: vinham@aol.com (vinham@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 13:52:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Information on plants to attract humming birds From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Dec 21 21:12:38 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 14:12:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hummingbirds References: <200112212052.fBLKqin05677@Ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3C23A5C6.5DD94506@qwest.net> U of A Publication AZ1100, which you can view by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers has a chart which shows which flowering plants are attractive to hummingbirds. Hummingbirds are attracted to tubular shaped flowers, particularly red and orange flowers. Don't forget a water source. Birds are attracted to the sound of running water. There are drippers available that you can add to your birdbath that will entice birds. Another good site is found at: http://portalproductions.com/h/ It is called the Hummingbird Web Site. You can click on the option "Gardens", then choose gardens for your region. Sue Bass Master Gardener > Information on plants to attract humming birds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Dec 22 00:17:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2001 19:17:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus trees Message-ID: <117.9cf02f9.29552b25@aol.com> --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth. Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit It is not recommended that any tree be topped unless it has been planted under utility lines and presents a safety factor. Any growth removed from a tree or plant will reduce its growth rate and that is not what you are looking for. Leaves produce food for a plant and loss of leaf surface will reduce the overall growth.
Be sure that your tree is watered and fertilized adequately.
Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture at:
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html

Good luck.

Rod McKusick
Master Gardener and Arborist --part1_117.9cf02f9.29552b25_boundary-- From dealejandro_family@yahoo.com Sat Dec 22 19:08:05 2001 From: dealejandro_family@yahoo.com (Edward & Jackee De Alejandro) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants In-Reply-To: <153.3bbd8ad.291d38f8@aol.com> Message-ID: Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of them? Thanks a bunch!! Jackee From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Dec 22 22:01:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 22:01:24 +0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants Message-ID: Here is an answer from Master Gardener Linda Guy regarding houseplant of fungus gnats. You need to eliminate the larvae in the soil; treating the adults has little success: Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: "Edward & Jackee De Alejandro" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gnats in houseplants >Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2001 12:08:05 -0700 > >Help! I have tiny little brown/gray gnat looking flies living in my >houseplants. They are everywhere! What are they and how can I get rid of >them? > >Thanks a bunch!! > >Jackee > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com From dmkerr2@home.com Sun Dec 23 13:00:29 2001 From: dmkerr2@home.com (Kerr Family) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2001 06:00:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangor Message-ID: <004001c18bb1$cc3a9c70$328e0541@cx89858a> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Are there varieties of tangor (tangerine/orange) cross available in = Maricopa County? I have had great sucess with Mineola tangelo = (tangerine/grapefruit), but my wife and kids would like something = sweeter. The tangerine has a more intense flavor than an orange. Good = size and few seeds are desirable. ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01C18B77.1FA01B00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Dear Gardener =

My Lemon tree is bare of any foliage = and has about=20 12 lemons/not ripe and NO signs of budding, which by now I can see. = In the=20 summer of this year I sprayed with Malathion. Did I kill = it?

Thanks for the info

Lori

South Bay - CA