From pauljnestor@yahoo.com Thu Feb 1 00:03:30 2001 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:03:30 -0700 (MST) From: pauljnestor@yahoo.com pauljnestor@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Phoenix and my yard is aprox 20' by 45'. I am trying to decide on what trees to put in our yard. We would like a couple of cirus tees and maybe a eucalyptus. How can I find out if you can combine some trees with others? Also how many tree can I fit into our yard considering the size? Thank you for you time and advise. Paul From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 00:36:43 2001 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:36:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Climbing Roses, pruning If you live in the low desert now is the time to prune your roses. Climbers are pruned differently than are hybrid teas, remove the weakest and the oldest canes, leaving 5 to 6 canes. Remove dead and diseased canes. Do not prune the ends of the canes unles it is necessary to keep within bounds. Cut back to two or three bud eyes on the laterals. Tie or train the canes in an arching or horizontal position so that the laterals will grow vertically for the best display of flowers. The most hardy orchid tree can handle temps only down to 20 degrees and would not be suitable for the Payson climate. If your climbing rose is in Payson I would suggest that you contact a rosarian or a nursery there for the best time of year to prune roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 00:36:44 2001 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:36:44 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Gophers Gophers can be eliminated by trapping, or by using poisoned bait, however I've had the best luck in getting rid of them by inserting a lighted highway flare into their tunnel and covering it with dirt. You can find their tunnel by following the exit hole down to the tunnel. The gopher must be in the under ground tunnel in order for any elimination method to work. When gophers are a problem I check every morning for fresh dirt beside the exit hole and when I find that I immediately start digging . Once the gopher fanily is eliminated I don't se them again for several months or longer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From balthasar@qwest.net Thu Feb 1 03:59:56 2001 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:59:56 -0700 (MST) From: balthasar@qwest.net balthasar@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page A tree feeding company told me that nurseries add Mycorrhhizal Fungi to the soil when planting citrus trees. That this fungi live in and around the roots of 95% of the earths plant species serving as a secondary root system extending themselves far out into the soil. That my citrus trees never had this fungi(25yrs. old) and for a price would add this to the root systems. Am I getting a fairy tale or is there credence to his statement that,"Trees and plants with thriving Mycorrhizal roots systems are better able to survive and thrive in stressful man made environments."? Should I get his treatment? Anoooother quote, "with one treatment we can turn your tree into super roots" From lgk007@aol.com Thu Feb 1 05:55:04 2001 Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 22:55:04 -0700 (MST) From: lgk007@aol.com lgk007@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I will be bringing my two horses home to our property. I am concerned about the waste that comes along with horses. I want to start out right and do as much composting as I can and not have it all hauled away. Is there someone that can help me with building a composting facility and some information on how much and when I can add to the pile of waste. I thank you for your time. Lin From kelly.ryan1@home.com Thu Feb 1 18:41:03 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0700 (MST) From: kelly.ryan1@home.com kelly.ryan1@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What should I do about soil gnats? I had them in just one potted plant in my home which was exposed to partial diffused sunlight, now they have expanded into most of my potted plants. What should I do to discourage their survival? Will my plants, which are now grasping to life, survive? Thank you very much. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 23:42:47 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:42:47 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mycorrhizae It is fairly well known in horticulture that the mycorrhizae fungi are beneficial to most plant growth, and mycorrhizae are found in nearly all soils. This fungi enables plants to more readily take up phosporus, but is not much of a factor involving nitrogen, and the main ingredient that citrus require is nitrogen. So, how much benefit would you be receiving from a mycorrhizae innoculation ? I would also question how someone would know that your citrus does not have this this fungi without extensive testing. There is lots of citrus grown in Maricopa county very sucessfully when watered and fertilized properly. I found lots of info about mycorrhizae by searching on line for MYCORRHIZAE. The following website may be helpful. http://www.mycorrhiza.org/benefits.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From ram6260@yahoo.com Fri Feb 2 15:49:13 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:49:13 -0800 (PST) From: BOB RAMSEY ram6260@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering and feeding of queen palms While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding care of my queen palms. He says that they should have frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep root and microinject fertilization that they do for $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide that kills fungus that almost always is present in the "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From Rand2620@uswest.net Fri Feb 2 19:03:31 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:03:31 -0700 (MST) From: Rand2620@uswest.net Rand2620@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Gilbert and I have heard that due to the extreme heat in the valley during the summer that it may be best to prune fruit tree (plums and peaches) in June rather than the winter months as this helps the plant reduce the amount of engergy it must put into leaf maintance during the hot summer. Is this true? Would the same concept work for roses - my roses look real good now and always are a bit peaked looking during the summer - would it be wise to do the major pruning during early summer rather than now. From Rand2620@uswest.net Fri Feb 2 19:04:35 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:04:35 -0700 (MST) From: Rand2620@uswest.net Rand2620@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Gilbert and I have heard that due to the extreme heat in the valley during the summer that it may be best to prune fruit tree (plums and peaches) in June rather than the winter months as this helps the plant reduce the amount of energy it must put into leaf maintance during the hot summer. Is this true? Would the same concept work for roses - my roses look real good now and always are a bit stressed during the summer - would it be wise to do the major pruning during early summer rather than now. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 2 22:10:00 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:10:00 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Queen Palms, watering and feeding Bob, I'll refer you to the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension bulletin AZ1021, ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS which states that deep watering of landscape palms in the desert is crucial. This bulletin is available on line at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This bulletin also addresses the treatment of the fungus which causes Bud Rot in palms. The queen palm is difficult to keep looking healthy in our low desert soils and does require multiple applications of a fertilizer designed specially for palms, one that has an NPK ratio of 3-1-3 plus magnesium, manganese, iron, sulfur, zinc, copper and boron. Deep root fertilization can be helpful especially if the palm is showing a nutrient dificiency. If a severe nutrient dificiency does exist it would be best if a certified arborist were to treat the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 2 22:10:01 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:10:01 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: homeowner tree clinic --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 02/02/2001 10:07:57 AM US Mountain Standard Time, crymer@ag.arizona.edu writes: << >>> 2001 Urban Homeowners Tree Care Clinic The Arboretum at ASU and the Arizona Community Tree Council are presenting the third Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic on Saturday, February 10, 2001. This clinic will provide the homeowner with information and resources that will encourage proper selection and appropriate maintenance of trees in the home landscape. There will be vendors participating to offer additional information, books, and tools. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self-guided tours are also encouraged. A wonderful selection of speakers will be present to discuss a range of tree care subjects. This year's speakers are Christy Ten Eyck from Ten Eyck Landscape Architects, Terry Mikel, the commercial horticultural agent from the U of A Maricopa County Extension office, Dennis Lynch, the manager from Arbor Care, Roger Blakeley, the Parks Superintendent from the City of Yuma, and Dr. Chris Martin from ASU Plant Biology. It will be a very informative event. Mark your calendar and plan on attending. Where: ASU Memorial Union, Tempe, Arizona When: Saturday, February 10, 2001 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost: Free to the public Pre-registration if required and must be received by February 8, 2001. For more information contact the Arboretum at ASU, (480) 965-8467. Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ >> --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yd02.mx.aol.com (rly-yd02.mail.aol.com [172.18.150.2]) by air-yd04.mail.aol.com (v77.31) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Feb 2001 12:07:57 -0500 Received: from phobos.email.Arizona.EDU (phobos-adm.email.arizona.edu [128.196.133.165]) by rly-yd02.mx.aol.com (v77.27) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Feb 2001 12:07:40 -0500 Received: from acoma.mac-coopext.arizona.edu (204.27.250.49) by phobos.email.Arizona.EDU (5.1.056) id 3A6F7A1E000B4FF2 for RodMcQ6@aol.com; Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:07:37 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20010202101649.00ab3e60@ag.arizona.edu> X-Sender: crymer@ag.arizona.edu X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 X-Priority: 1 (Highest) Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 10:24:17 -0700 To: RodMcQ6@aol.com From: Cathy Rymer Subject: homeowner tree clinic Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Rod, Would you post this to the arid_gardener list serve? I don't subscribe, but I thought most of the readers would be interested in the clinic. Thanks! Cathy >>> 2001 Urban Homeowners Tree Care Clinic The Arboretum at ASU and the Arizona Community Tree Council are presenting the third Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic on Saturday, February 10, 2001. This clinic will provide the homeowner with information and resources that will encourage proper selection and appropriate maintenance of trees in the home landscape. There will be vendors participating to offer additional information, books, and tools. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self-guided tours are also encouraged. A wonderful selection of speakers will be present to discuss a range of tree care subjects. This year's speakers are Christy Ten Eyck from Ten Eyck Landscape Architects, Terry Mikel, the commercial horticultural agent from the U of A Maricopa County Extension office, Dennis Lynch, the manager from Arbor Care, Roger Blakeley, the Parks Superintendent from the City of Yuma, and Dr. Chris Martin from ASU Plant Biology. It will be a very informative event. Mark your calendar and plan on attending. Where: ASU Memorial Union, Tempe, Arizona When: Saturday, February 10, 2001 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost: Free to the public Pre-registration if required and must be received by February 8, 2001. For more information contact the Arboretum at ASU, (480) 965-8467. Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary-- From rafikikita@att.net Sat Feb 3 00:32:12 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:32:12 -0700 (MST) From: rafikikita@att.net rafikikita@att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 3 01:28:58 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 20:28:58 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning fruit trees and roses, time of year. If you haven't pruned your stone fruit trees and roses yet it is time to do so. U. of A Cooperative Extension fact sheet MC-66 states that the stone fruit trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. As for roses the target time to prune if you live in the low desert is January through mid February. If you want to get rid of your roses then prune them in early summer. Yes the summer temps do stress our roses here in the low desert. Roses need all of their foliage to prevent sunburn and to help keep the bush as cool as possible. Things you can do to help your roses in summer are planting where they have afternoon shade, provide 3 to 4 inches of mulch, wash down the leaves at least once a week, and provide adequate water. Why not join us at the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting this Thursday at 7:00 in the Kiva Room of the Student Center at Mesa Community College for good fellowship and good advice on growing great roses. Be my guest. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From jabluestone@earthlink.net Sun Feb 4 00:41:13 2001 Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 17:41:13 -0700 (MST) From: jabluestone@earthlink.net jabluestone@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Feathry Cassia Ours were planted last April. One has proven to be in the wrong place and needs to be moved. Is this a good time to move it? If not when? Having recently moved here from the Chicago area,desert gardening is a whole different ballgame. Dirt is suposed to be black and smell fresh when you scoop up a handful! I put a fat midwest earthworm in the "ground" and it came right back up, looked me in the eye and said, "are you nuts?". The last I saw of it, it was boarding a Southwest flight back to Chicago! Well, I strongly suspect,we will learn. Thank you for your help. From MTQR4@aol.com Sun Feb 4 02:04:50 2001 Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 19:04:50 -0700 (MST) From: MTQR4@aol.com MTQR4@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Has anyone heard of a product called "Super thrive". I bought a small bottle of it at a nursery in Tucson. It is supposed to be a growth hormone for plants that reduces transplant shock and increases bloom, fruit and growth. Does anybody have any experience on using it and what results and procedures? From mgovig@home.com Sun Feb 4 17:42:48 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 10:42:48 -0700 (MST) From: mgovig@home.com mgovig@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phonix area? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 4 18:14:45 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 11:14:45 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Edamame Soybeans ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phoenix area? Yes, but they are not well adapted. Plant in March and again in late July to get edible green beans (green as in not ripe). For dry beans, July planting may not allow for a sufficiently long growing season. Also depends on the type - go for the early varieties, 2 1/2 months or ess. -Olin From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 4 19:46:27 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:46:27 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cassias, transplanting Now is a great time to transplant your Cassias. If you will amend your soil with about 4 inches of mulch and add about 2 pounds of soil sulfur per 100 square feet and rototill it in, that worm will be on a flight back to Phoenix to savor the black soil here. For great informatio on gardening check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on vegetables at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 4 19:46:41 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:46:41 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pine Trees dying Inadequate irrigation can cause almost any tree except the native desert trees to die. Check out this website on irrigation : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html There are not a lot of diseases or insects that can cause the death of pine trees. Nematodes can cause fairly rapid decline in pines, unfortunately there is not any treatment. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From beckman@qwest.net Sun Feb 4 20:43:33 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 13:43:33 -0700 (MST) From: beckman@qwest.net beckman@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Six year old cottonwoods have bark that turns dark and separates from the trunk. Bark can just be pulled off. There is webbing and pulverization on the underside of the bark. Scattered about on the tree are holes that you can put your little finger all the way into. This weakens the limbs and raises the chance of a large limb breaking with wind. Anything I can to stop this? Thanks From Marjigirl@msn.com Mon Feb 5 00:52:50 2001 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 17:52:50 -0700 (MST) From: Marjigirl@msn.com Marjigirl@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I would like to know what might be causing our grapefruit and fruit cocktail tree to form leaves at the tip of their branches that are curl up and dry out. We are new homeowners in Arizona and don't know if it is fungus, too much water, not enough water, lack of fertilizer, etc. Any advise you could give us would be very much appreciated. Marjorie Hansen From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Feb 5 14:56:14 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 07:56:14 -0700 From: Mike Sheedy msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Edamame Soybeans Soybeans can grow in Central Arizona. The early maturing varieties - I believe - are better adapted than the long season varieties. The main problem in a field environment is the heat. The soil gets very hot in June and July and will 'cook' the roots of young plants. In a garden situation there should be no problem keeping the soil cool for the young plants. March and April are good months to plant soybeans for a garden and you can get by with a June and July planting. You can expect edible pods around mid August to Mid September. Dry beans can be harvested starting late October to November, but you will get a reduced yield if the beans are planted in July. >----- Original Message ----- From: >> Can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phoenix area? > >Yes, but they are not well adapted. Plant in March and again in late July >to get edible green beans (green as in not ripe). For dry beans, July >planting may not allow for a sufficiently long growing season. Also >depends on the type - go for the early varieties, 2 1/2 months or >ess. -Olin Mike Sheedy Research Specialist University of Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:20:56 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:20:56 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blackberries I'd like to refer you to an archived response to a similar question. To view this information please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/004363.html Sue Bass Master Gardener SilksMom@cs.com wrote: > Information on growing blackberries in the Phoenix Metro area.I have heard that an acidic soil is needed, Is this true? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:46:15 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:46:15 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Manzanita I did not see that you had received a response to your question regarding Manzanita. I would like to refer you to our archives where you can view several responses to Manzanita questions. I do know that they do not do well in the low desert. However, please browse the responses at: http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=Manzanita so you can get more information. Sue Bass Master Gardener chaparraldoor@qwest.net wrote: > Can I grow Manzanita in the north Phoenix area? > What suggestions on care and location to plant > a Manzanita bush? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:49:44 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:49:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Manzanita In addition to my previous question, please pay particular attention to the following response in the archives: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/2708.html This is a response from a gentleman at Tucson Growers. I think there are many opinions on growing this shrub. I'll let you decide after viewing all the information. Sue Bass Master Gardener chaparraldoor@qwest.net wrote: > Can I grow Manzanita in the north Phoenix area? > What suggestions on care and location to plant > a Manzanita bush? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 17:02:30 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 10:02:30 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant information Jenny: I'd like to refer you to our web page at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Here you will find a wealth of information. Take your time and really browse around. We have a Publications area which contains information on trees, shrubs, other ornamentals, citrus, lawns, insects and pests, just to name a few. To view the list of publications mentioned, first click on Publications from the home page, then choose The University of Arizona Home Horticulture Publications - Maricopa county. Another place to visit from the home page is the section entitled Plants. There is a section entitled Recommended Reading which will direct you to many books that would help you. Our Timely Tips section gives month by month "do's and don'ts" as well as things to watch for in the home landscape. Sue Bass Master Gardener mamamia59@yahoo.com wrote: > Please provide the names of plant varieties that are well-suited to growing in the Phoenix area and information about local gardening problems (pests, diseases). > > Thank you, > Jenny Pankey > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From annetter11@msn.com Mon Feb 5 19:37:44 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 12:37:44 -0700 (MST) From: annetter11@msn.com annetter11@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When my citrus trees start to get yellow leaves I use Chelated Iron and Zinc liquid to cure this problem. Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the first place and if not, is there a cheaper product to use to get rid of the yellow leaves? Thank you for your time! Annette From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:02:23 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:02:23 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Banana Tree I would like to refer you to the Arizona chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. You can get information by visiting: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm This includes a phone number and e-mail address. Sue Bass Master Gardener nan85048@aol.com wrote: > My condo Assoc needs info reg our Banana trees. Basic car is needed like watering, fertilizing and planting the small shoots to a new area. We really do not want or expect fruit, just wonderful folage. Thanks lots. We are in downtown PHX > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:05:58 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:05:58 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Herbs I'd like to refer you to our archives and a response to a similar question. You can view it by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005635.html Sue Bass Master Gardener scherryd@amug.org wrote: > When is the best time to plant herbs from seeds in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aanthonyandsons@aol.com Mon Feb 5 20:29:02 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:29:02 -0700 (MST) From: aanthonyandsons@aol.com aanthonyandsons@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my elderica trees are sparse and the needles are curly. One of the trees also has black on the bark. What kind of fertilizer is best for these pines? The trees are five years old. How often should they be watered? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:32:49 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:32:49 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pawpaw Tree I found some information on the Pawpaw on the web. You can view it at: http://www.gardenweb.com/cyberplt/plants/pawpaw.html This site has a reference to the California Rare Fruit Growers. Since we have an Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers here in Phoenix, I think they would be a great reference for you. The following link will take you to their web site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm which contains information to contact them. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener saline9@hotmail.com wrote: > Will a paw paw tree grow well in the Safford area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:40:02 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:40:02 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on composting I'd like to refer you to a web link section of our web page that contains information on composting. You can get there by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost I think you will find some good resources here. Sue Bass Master Gardener lgk007@aol.com wrote: > I will be bringing my two horses home to our property. I am concerned about the waste that comes along with horses. I want to start out right and do as much composting as I can and not have it all hauled away. Is there someone that can help me with building a composting facility and some information on how much and when I can add to the pile of waste. I thank you for your time. > > Lin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 21:32:21 2001 Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 14:32:21 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides Fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy answered a similar question a while back. You can view it in our archives by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004824.html Other than that, I do not know of any "safe" herbicides. Most I have seen on the market contain warnings on them that they should be kept away from children and pets and water supplies. Perhaps someone else on the list has some recommendations for you. Sue Bass Master Gardener rafikikita@att.net wrote: > My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:04 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:04 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pine tree looking unhealthy Trees that are kept healthy by adequate irrigation are much less susceptable to attacks by insects or pathogens. Aphids and spider mites can cause the pine tree to look unhealthy and usually can be controlled by a strong water spray. Nematodes attack the roots and can kill a pine tree in a very short time and there is not a cure available. Pine blight, caused by rapid weather changes is usually short lived. Do not fertilize pines with a nitrogen fertilizer as nitrogen is toxic to pines. A two inch layer of composted manure with soil sulfur added and applied over the root zone is beneficial to pines. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:05 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus tree problems Marjorie I suspect that you may have a problem with inadequate irrigation. Check out the following website for citrus irrigation : www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:03 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:03 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus with yellow leaves Annette, It is quite normal for citrus to have yellow leaves in the winter. If the leaves do not green up as we get into spring, then you probably have an irrigation problem, you are either under or over watering or you haven't fertilized. Check out this website on irrigation of citrus : www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:26:39 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:26:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cottonwoods with borers I answered a similiar question recently and is available at :http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/4644.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Feb 6 00:09:29 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:09:29 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides There are acid-based and corn gluten meal products touted as "natural" herbicides. See http://www.extremelygreen.com/ for some examples . Also see Peaceful valley Farm Supply's Page at http://www.groworganic.com/ and follow the links for info about "Safer's Superfast Weedkiller" Can't say about safety to pets - I have never needed to resort to weed killers on my one acre lot. I would not want to live next door to someone using a flamethrower. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 2:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides > Fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy answered a similar question a while back. You can view it in our archives by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004824.html > > Other than that, I do not know of any "safe" herbicides. Most I have seen on the market contain warnings on them that they should be kept away from children and pets and water supplies. > Perhaps someone else on the list has some recommendations for you. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > rafikikita@att.net wrote: > > > My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ehawk9675@juno.com Tue Feb 6 01:15:15 2001 Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 18:15:15 -0700 From: Eldon W Hawkins ehawk9675@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Rind I have extremely thick rind on my grapefruit. Is there a particular cause? ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From rockys_email@yahoo.com Wed Feb 7 02:51:13 2001 Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 19:51:13 -0700 (MST) From: rockys_email@yahoo.com rockys_email@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a tree in the back yard. Last year no fruit but this year it had a good crop. They look like a orange, smell like a orange, taste like a orange but they are red on the inside. If picked a little early the bottom half of the inside is red and the top half is like a normal orange. If left on the tree they turn full red on the inside. But still taste and smell like an orange. Some people call them a native Arizona orange. Others call them a blood orange. But most have never seen one. So what kind of orange tree do I have? I live in NW Tucson. Thanks.. From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Wed Feb 7 03:41:51 2001 Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 20:41:51 -0700 (MST) From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a citrus tree(grapefruit) that was planted just under two years ago. My question is, how many drip emitters are needed under such a tree. I run the system for six hours at a time, usually once every five days in the summer and once every three weeks in the winter, this providing no signifigant rain occurs. Someone told me twenty two gallon an hour emitters. Is this your suggestion? Also, I would think that a layer of mulch in the tree basin would be helpful. When should it be applied and what type of mulch do you suggest? Would shredded bark be ok? How deep should it be applied? Thanks for your time. Max From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Feb 7 06:11:28 2001 Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 23:11:28 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Sounds like blood orange to me. There are several varieties grown in Phoenix around GCC and Sahuaro Ranch Park but most don't get the deep red color one commonly sees in the Mediterranean region. With Tucson's higher elevation and cooler climate there is a better chance of getting a deeper red color. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We have a tree in the back yard. Last year no fruit but this year it had a good crop. They look like a orange, smell like a orange, taste like a orange but they are red on the inside. If picked a little early the bottom half of the inside is red and the top half is like a normal orange. If left on the tree they turn full red on the inside. But still taste and smell like an orange. Some people call them a native Arizona orange. Others call them a blood orange. But most have never seen one. So what kind of orange tree do I have? I live in NW Tucson. Thanks. From scorpion10310@juno.com Wed Feb 7 16:10:10 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:10:10 -0700 (MST) From: scorpion10310@juno.com scorpion10310@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What care should you give pamelo(pumelo)'s.,when to pick fruit? Meat of fruit seems dry. Thks From djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Wed Feb 7 16:10:29 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:10:29 -0700 (MST) From: djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page From djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Wed Feb 7 16:14:06 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:14:06 -0700 (MST) From: djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to diminish the fruit production. thank you From Godfatherdom@aol.com Wed Feb 7 18:56:46 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:56:46 -0700 (MST) From: Godfatherdom@aol.com Godfatherdom@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page To paint the trunk of a tree is there any specific type I should or should not use? Thank you. From daletate@swbell.net Wed Feb 7 22:55:01 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:55:01 -0700 (MST) From: daletate@swbell.net daletate@swbell.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I just purchased four plants of Dalea greggii while in Tucson this past week. They are in gallon containers and were quite expensive, $4.50 each at retail. Now will some one tell me when and how to transplant them and the care I should give them until they go in the ground. I'm guessing I'll need to hold them for about five weeks in El Paso Texas. Also, how are they propagated in commercial nurseries. Thanks Dale Tate Thanks Dale Tate From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:39 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Protecting a tree from sunburn Trees can be protected from sunburn by painting with whitewash or a water based paint. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:43 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus Watering Your citrus should be happy with 5 two gallon drippers placed at the drip line of the tree and at 7 to 10 day intervals in the summer and 30 intervals in the winter. Watering 6 hours should give you enough water to satisfy the tree until its crown reaches 8 feet in diameter. A 4 inch mulch of shredded bark would work fine. Check out this website on citrus watering: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:41 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:41 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pummelo care The harvest time for the pummelo is about the same as for grapefruit, ie December and January. If you live in a colder part of the valley the dryness could be caused by frost damage. Excellent information is available on citrus care in U. of A. Cooperative Extension bulletin # 8464, Citrus Trees In The Home Garden at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for only $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Feb 8 01:16:44 2001 Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 18:16:44 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dalea greggii Dale: I don't know what the climate around El Paso is like as far as how cold your winters are, but it is generally best to transplant after danger of frost has past. A simple rule found in Eric A. Johnson's book, "Johnson's Guide To Gardening Plants For The Arid West, Pruning, Planting & Care", is that if in doubt about the proper time to plant for your region, plant anytime you can usually count on four weeks or more of mild weather to follow. This will allow plants to establish before stress, in the form of heat or cold, comes on. As for specific care of your Prostrate Trailing Indigo Bush as Dalea greggii is commonly called, you should space them when planting at least 4 to 6 feet on centers and at least 6 feet from curbs, walks, or other plants. Plant in soil with good drainage. A gallon-sized plant can cover 6 to 10 square feet in one season. After a few years, plants will begin to develop a mounding habit and lost their flat look. You can then shear into old wood to 6 inches above ground level in early spring to create fresh growth and a more groomed appearance. New growth will develop as temperatures warm. Recovery is rapid. Old wood can build up within three years so it is best to cut back plant to renew before it reaches a woody stage. Prune to control as needed or plants grow like slow-moving lava flow to smother nearby accent plants or dwarfish plants. It is a self-fertilizing legume. This is information from the the previously mentioned book. Until you plant your plants, give them plenty of sun as they are full sun to partial shade plants and allow soil to dry between waterings. They are a low water use plant. They are native to Texas and Mexico and are hardy to 15F to 20F degrees. You can contact your local county Cooperative Extension office for additional planting information pertinent to your area. Sue Bass Master Gardener daletate@swbell.net wrote: > Hello, > I just purchased four plants of Dalea > greggii while in Tucson this past week. They > are in gallon containers and were quite > expensive, $4.50 each at retail. Now will > some one tell me when and how to transplant > them and the care I should give them until > they go in the ground. I'm guessing I'll need > to hold them for about five weeks in El Paso > Texas. > Also, how are they propagated in commercial > nurseries. > > Thanks > > Dale Tate > > Thanks > Dale Tate > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Thu Feb 8 02:20:24 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:20:24 -0700 (MST) From: jhayesfamily@prodigy.net jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What is the best way to compost? I've seen many systems one can buy, but what fits for our climate? From JMM1014@aol.com Thu Feb 8 03:43:28 2001 Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:43:28 -0700 (MST) From: JMM1014@aol.com JMM1014@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a 15 year old Lemon Tree that needs to be pruned. Can you tell me when the best time to prune is? And how much should I prune? From susanberquist@msn.com Thu Feb 8 13:15:10 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 06:15:10 -0700 (MST) From: susanberquist@msn.com susanberquist@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I find which days in Nov Dec and Jan were rain days in Phoenix? From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 13:57:49 2001 Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 06:57:49 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Composting I read a little ditty several years ago that worked to keep my memory refreshed for several years: "Two parts green to one part brown Turn it over to break it down." The green (table & yard scraps) and brown (dirt) ingredients may vary from region to region, but the process is the same. A bin made of chicken wire (3'x3'x3') and wood framing is the simplest. Expensive composting "equipment" seems unnecessary. Moisture is necessary, though. If your compost is too dry, it won't decompose. If it's too wet, it will start to smell. Rule of thumb is that it should be about as damp as a squeezed out rag. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 14:50:05 2001 Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 07:50:05 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] cuttings from natives Can anyone give me pointers or share experiences of taking cuttings from desert natives? I'm trying some softwood cuttings of brittlebush, jojoba and desert lavender salvia that I'm treating like any other cutting (only I'm using my usual sand and desert compost mix instead of potting soil). My usual routine is to dip the cutting in rooting hormone, put it in the soil mix and keep a plastic bag around it, keep it moist until I see signs of growth--usually about 4-5 weeks. This has worked for me quite well with hibiscus and others. Should it work with natives? I haven't had much success with brittlebush from seed, so I figured I'd try cuttings. Has anyone else had experience re: care while rooting and transplanting of natives? Also, does anyone know the germination period for penstemons (on average). I have desert beardtongue, which I cold stratified and have just germinated after 8-10 days. The p. spectabilis which I was told *didn't* need to be stratified has yet to germ. after 4 weeks. And finally... For those of you in the Tucson area, I HIGHLY recommend a visit to the Desert Museum soon! We live only a few miles away so a friend and I went up for lunch yesterday and I can't remember ever seeing so much bloom. I didn't want to leave! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From saz621@primenet.com Thu Feb 8 15:28:36 2001 Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 08:28:36 -0700 From: Mary Irish saz621@primenet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: cuttings from natives Sherryl, You should be able to take cuttings of the plants you describe in precisely the same way you would any other perennial. They are all best from softwood cuttings in either fall or spring. The greatest challenge in preventing fungal infestations once they are potted up and growing in containers in the summer. To alleviate that a product called Root Shield has proven to be very effective. It may only be available from nursery supply houses, I can't be sure. I would surmise that Penstemon spectabilis would indeed need cold stratification, as do almost all penstemon seed. I have been told that soaking them in a hydrogen peroxide solution also helps germination but I have not tried it myself. Good luck, Mary Irish Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Can anyone give me pointers or share experiences of taking cuttings from > desert natives? I'm trying some softwood cuttings of brittlebush, jojoba > and desert lavender salvia that I'm treating like any other cutting > (only I'm using my usual sand and desert compost mix instead of potting > soil). My usual routine is to dip the cutting in rooting hormone, put it > in the soil mix and keep a plastic bag around it, keep it moist until I > see signs of growth--usually about 4-5 weeks. This has worked for me > quite well with hibiscus and others. Should it work with natives? > > I haven't had much success with brittlebush from seed, so I figured I'd > try cuttings. Has anyone else had experience re: care while rooting and > transplanting of natives? > > Also, does anyone know the germination period for penstemons (on > average). I have desert beardtongue, which I cold stratified and have > just germinated after 8-10 days. The p. spectabilis which I was told > *didn't* need to be stratified has yet to germ. after 4 weeks. > > And finally... > For those of you in the Tucson area, I HIGHLY recommend a visit to the > Desert Museum soon! We live only a few miles away so a friend and I went > up for lunch yesterday and I can't remember ever seeing so much bloom. I > didn't want to leave! > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 16:15:21 2001 Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 09:15:21 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: cuttings from natives > The greatest challenge in preventing > fungal infestations once they are potted up and growing in containers in the > summer. To alleviate that a product called Root Shield has proven to be very > effective. One of the MGs here had heard that watering with chamomile tea prevents damp off, and I'm happy to report that using it on my soaptree yuccas that had just started to germinate has eliminated the fuzzy white that had developed (whether it was just mildew or damp off, I have no idea). My seedlings are all fuzz-free now :-). I can't remember which MG here made the recommendation, but thanks! Would you recommend transferring the cuttings to containers for the summer and putting them out in the fall? I figured, especially with the brittlebush that gets a deep taproot, I'd want to put them in the ground as soon as they seemed decently rooted. Thanks again, -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bbpotts@az.rmci.net Thu Feb 8 17:20:34 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:20:34 -0700 (MST) From: bbpotts@az.rmci.net bbpotts@az.rmci.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My navel orange tree that is 2 years old has spiney limbs should these be trimmed? These limbs occure in various locations in the tree not just in the lower areas. Is there a way to eliminate these limbs? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 8 17:31:45 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:31:45 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rainfall in Phoenix Be aware that rainfall is quite different around the valley. It can be pouring rain in Southwest Phoenix or at the Airport and in Northwest Phoenix we do have a drop of rain. So if you are looking for all of Phoenix it might be pretty hard to find. For rainfall at Sky Harbor, you would need to find a National Weather Service database or you may be able to get it from the AZ Republic Archives. For general average data of interest for gardening, The Arizona Meteorological Network has an excellent database. Go to http://ag.arizona.edu/AZMET/ Select the box "Data Access" . There you have a choice of a number of station locations around the valley. I usually select either Phoenix Greenway (closer to me) or Phoenix Encanto (more centrally located). For Example: If you select Phoenix Encanto, this brings up the monthly menu for each year. For November and December, you would select "Monthly" on the 2000 line and on the 2001 line for January. For January 2001, you will find rainfall was recorded on at the Encanto station 1-6,8,9,12,16, and 27 for a total 1.71 inches. But at Phoenix Greenway there was recorded rainfall on 1-8, 9, 12, 14, 15, 16 and 27 for a total of 2.39 inches for January. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 6:15 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where can I find which days in Nov Dec and Jan were rain days in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bjchambe@dcaccess.com Thu Feb 8 18:17:01 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:17:01 -0700 From: BJ bjchambe@dcaccess.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Trees This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Arid_gardener; We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in our back yard. = We have no idea how to care for them. We want to prune them soon to = encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then fertilize them. = Any information you can give us about taking care of them would be = helpful. Barbara & John ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Arid_gardener;
    We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer = in our=20 back yard.  We have no idea how to care for them.  We want to = prune=20 them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then = fertilize=20 them.  Any information you can give us about taking care of = them would=20 be helpful.
Barbara & John
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0-- From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 8 20:02:25 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 15:02:25 EST From: Krulich@aol.com Krulich@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilizer Hello, I have a question regarding fertilizing my citrus trees. I have some Arizona's Best citrus food, 13-10-4, that I bought about 1 and a half years ago. The directions aren't very specific as to how much to use for ground planted trees. It mostly deals with container trees. How much of it do I need to use for trees that are over 20 years old? Also, it says it only has 0.20% iron. That doesn't seem like enough iron. I checked at the store and the same stuff that I bought 1 and a half years ago now has 2.00% iron. Is 0.20% iron enough? I heard that the citrus food loses quality over time. If that's true, should I buy some new fertilizer? I bought a 40 lb bag and there is still a lot left that I would hate to see go to waste. Thanks for your time. Tom From Nonelson@aol.com Thu Feb 8 21:34:03 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:34:03 EST From: Nonelson@aol.com Nonelson@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lady Bank's Rose --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Several years ago, while in Tombstone, I got a cutting from the Lady Bank's Rose in one of the museums. This is supposed to be the largest Rose Tree in the world; at least according to the Guiness Book of Records. It has grown and prospered in my Phoenix home, however, several times I have tried to take cuttings from mine, with a singular lack of success. Can some one please advise me how to take successful cuttings from this plant. Thank you Neil Nelson nonelson@aol.com --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Several years ago, while in Tombstone, I got a cutting from the Lady Bank's
Rose in one of the museums. This is supposed to be the largest Rose Tree in
the world; at least according to the Guiness Book of Records. It has grown
and prospered in my Phoenix home, however, several times I have tried to take
cuttings from mine, with  a singular lack of success. Can some one please
advise me how to take successful cuttings from this plant.
Thank you

Neil Nelson
nonelson@aol.com --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary-- From rap1020@home.com Thu Feb 8 21:37:12 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:37:12 -0700 (MST) From: rap1020@home.com rap1020@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have gardenia plant on the north side of my house out of direct sun. I supplement the soil to maintain acidity. The newer leaves are slightly yellow with brown spots on them. The buds form but turn brown and drop off prior to bloom. What is wrong? What can be done? From stognermd@netdoor.com Fri Feb 9 01:59:07 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 18:59:07 -0700 (MST) From: stognermd@netdoor.com stognermd@netdoor.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i want to buy a Warren pear tree. Know where I can find that particular type? thanks. steve From Annecissi@aol.com Fri Feb 9 03:49:49 2001 Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:49:49 -0700 (MST) From: Annecissi@aol.com Annecissi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have an orange and grapefruit tree--they have lots of lower branches and most of the fruit was on these lower braches.However, before the fruit was ripe the branches was on the ground--everything I read says you should not prune citrus but I lost a lot of fruit to "critters and bugs". Can these lower branches be trimed and if so, how much? Thank you! From bcvoax@aol.com Fri Feb 9 16:39:20 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 09:39:20 -0700 (MST) From: bcvoax@aol.com bcvoax@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I live in Sun Lakes and I have four citrus trees in my backyard, they are aprx. 6 years old. A lemon tree that appears healthy but had only one lemon this year. Next to it is an Arizona sweet orange which appears to be healthy but had small fruit. Next to it is a pink grapefruit tree which had only five small grapefruit on it this year and only about one-third of the tree has mature leaves it continually drops its leaves, looks sad. The last tree is a tangelo tree which doesn't look bad but did not bare any fruit. all of the trees are on the same watering system were fertizized three times last year and received a dose of ironite. Help From patricbain@aol.com Fri Feb 9 17:12:37 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:12:37 -0700 (MST) From: patricbain@aol.com patricbain@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Variety of tomato which can be grown in Maricopa county in a container or direct into bed successfully. From bmorriss@speedchoice.com Fri Feb 9 18:31:18 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 11:31:18 -0700 (MST) From: bmorriss@speedchoice.com bmorriss@speedchoice.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page we have our own composting bin, but we're experiencing problems w/ roaches in the bottom portion of the bin. What can we do to eliminate this? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:42 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:42 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, pruning mature trees Mature citrus need very little or no pruning other than removing dead wood and twiggy inside growth. The lemon tree is quite vigorous and the outside growth may have to be pruned to keep within bounds. Never prune more than 25% at one time and be very careful not to expose limbs or the trunk to the sun without protecting them with white water based paint or a wrap. Now would be a good time of year to do this. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:39 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:39 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning young citrus Young trees and especially citrus should not be pruned except to remove dead or crossing branches. Food manufacturing capabilities are reduced each time a leaf or a branch is removed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:43 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:43 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mesquite Tree Care Barbara and John, Do not remove any growth from the trunk of your screwbean mesquites if the trees still require staking. If the trees are multiple trunk and you want a sngle trunk you could select the most vigorous trunk and remove the rest. Do as little pruning on your trees as possible until they are two to three years in the ground. Two to three ounces of fertilizer applied two to three times during the growing season would benefit the trees. Be sure to water in well. Mesquites can survive in our desert climate with very little supplimental water once they are established, however they won't grow very fast. I would suggest deep watering at widely spaced intervals. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:41 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:41 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Propagation from cuttings Neil There is excellent information on plant propagation at the folowing website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:38 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:38 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus fertilizer Tom U. of A. recommends that a mature citrus tree be fertilized with one pound of actual nitrogen per year applied in three applications starting in February. The fertilizer that you have has 13% nitrogen; to obtain one pound of nitrogen you must use 7.69 pounds of fertilizer. I would round it of to eight pounds. Iron is not a critical item in most low desert soils for citrus nor is the age of the fertilizer a concern. I would use it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From stevebethparker@kna.to Sat Feb 10 04:48:26 2001 Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 21:48:26 -0700 (MST) From: stevebethparker@kna.to stevebethparker@kna.to Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just planted 2 agovey (spelled wrong im sure.) and a 2nd year med palm tree. how much water and how often,do each plan need. clueless and in need of help...steve From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 10 13:42:08 2001 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 06:42:08 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: bottle tree question ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steph - home" > --part1_ba.11666a00.27b6b9b5_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: From: Awinant@aol.com Full-name: Awinant Message-ID: <8a.2196ec2.27b31401@aol.com> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:11:29 EST Subject: olives... To: JeanSciFi@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 113 Hi.... you dont know me but I found your correspondence with stack@goodnet.com on the web. The problem is that her email address doesnt exist anymore... Im a bit confused, so far Ive been following her directions for olive curing, thought that since youve tried it you might be able to help me? I picked medium sized black olives (deep purple on the inside) and put them in the brine with the concentration she suggested. I notice now that some of the olives are turning whitish on the end or ends, sort of like they are losing their pigment. In some cases it has spread through the entire olive. Is this something to be concerned about? Also, in one of my jars a mold is developing on the top, luckily today is the day I had stronger brine... What should I do about that, if anything. Thanks very much for your help, Id really appreciate your response if you have the time. Alex Winant --part1_ba.11666a00.27b6b9b5_boundary-- From susy_1@msn.com Sat Feb 10 19:09:22 2001 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 12:09:22 -0700 (MST) From: susy_1@msn.com susy_1@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page recently planted mature common white calla lillies in "mini oasis" on E. side of house. when took them out of the pots they were all "root-bound", each plant having 1 flower. live in Cave Creek just N. of scottsdale. they are in a largely shaded area & have survived the transplanting well. have never grown them before & will appreciate any info. you have about growing in our climate. when the flowers wilt should we cut them? how often should we feed? what months will they grow? when they die off do we cut them down to ground level? thank-you for anything you know about this. susan From jjgerl@earthlink.net Sat Feb 10 23:51:42 2001 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 16:51:42 -0700 (MST) From: jjgerl@earthlink.net jjgerl@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 11 00:52:28 2001 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:52:28 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus Yellowing and Pruning Go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003859.html for an answer to this question, which came up before. Also, you can go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in hibiscus for previous hibiscus discussions. There is a lot of help in those many questions and answers and some other web sites to visit for hibiscus information. I personally love these plants because they're so very green all year and have those wonderful flowers. When they start yellowing I give them some Schultz Iron Green which has iron, nitrogen and other goodies in it. That always does the trick. You can buy this product in home stores, Walmart, etc. -Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jjgerl@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:52 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Feb 11 03:04:15 2001 Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 20:04:15 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus care I've copied below some information from Charles Black who owns Hidden Valley Hibiscus in San Diego County, California. You can find many of his hibiscus at valley nurseries including Harpers. Here is what Charles has to say about pruning (keep in mind that the height he is talking about is for a container grown Hibiscus, but this is the time to do it. I'd like to direct you to the HVH web site at: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ They provide excellent information on growing hibiscus including recommendations on fertilizers. Very good information on fertilizers including what kinds to avoid. You can also e-mail them directly from their web page with questions on growing them. Charles is wonderful about responding to questions. I have learned a lot about these plants from them. Sue Bass Master Gardener From: Charles Black Date: Mon Dec 4, 2000 5:36am Bill, this is an easy one. Whack em back! Way back. Seriously, hibiscus can be pruned extensively and they just roar back with new branches and fresh foliage. I would cut the main branches low down, leaving only a few leaves and some stubs several inches long. The whole plant should then be no more than a foot high, pot included, and not extend much if any beyond the sides of the pot. The main danger in pruning in fall or winter is that any new little shoots that start to come out are very susceptible to freezing if you expect them to be in temperatures below 32 during the winter. If they will be protected from frosts then there is no problem. The other way to invigorate hibiscus is to root prune them prior to repotting. Not necessary if you are increasing the pot size, however. Charles jjgerl@earthlink.net wrote: > Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 11 12:26:08 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 05:26:08 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hidden Valley Hibiscus Site I haven't been able to get to the Hidden Valley Hibiscus site for days. First I thought that maybe he was working on it but it has been down for quite a while so I don't know what's going on. -Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:04 PM To: jjgerl@earthlink.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus care I've copied below some information from Charles Black who owns Hidden Valley Hibiscus in San Diego County, California. You can find many of his hibiscus at valley nurseries including Harpers. Here is what Charles has to say about pruning (keep in mind that the height he is talking about is for a container grown Hibiscus, but this is the time to do it. I'd like to direct you to the HVH web site at: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ They provide excellent information on growing hibiscus including recommendations on fertilizers. Very good information on fertilizers including what kinds to avoid. You can also e-mail them directly from their web page with questions on growing them. Charles is wonderful about responding to questions. I have learned a lot about these plants from them. Sue Bass Master Gardener From: Charles Black Date: Mon Dec 4, 2000 5:36am Bill, this is an easy one. Whack em back! Way back. Seriously, hibiscus can be pruned extensively and they just roar back with new branches and fresh foliage. I would cut the main branches low down, leaving only a few leaves and some stubs several inches long. The whole plant should then be no more than a foot high, pot included, and not extend much if any beyond the sides of the pot. The main danger in pruning in fall or winter is that any new little shoots that start to come out are very susceptible to freezing if you expect them to be in temperatures below 32 during the winter. If they will be protected from frosts then there is no problem. The other way to invigorate hibiscus is to root prune them prior to repotting. Not necessary if you are increasing the pot size, however. Charles jjgerl@earthlink.net wrote: > Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From blguard@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 11 15:16:46 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 08:16:46 -0700 (MST) From: blguard@worldnet.att.net blguard@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have dwarf myrtles planted as a low hedge. I have had to replace them many times because they turn brown and then die after about 6 months. I tried spraying them with diazinon, because I thought they had cutworms. This seemed to help a bit last year, but now about half of them are turning brown and dying again. I’ve been reading about Cotton Root Rot, and wonder if it could effect myrtles. Any suggestion? From ncornell3@home.com Sun Feb 11 19:26:37 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:26:37 -0700 (MST) From: ncornell3@home.com ncornell3@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Re: Old orange tree. I have an orange tree that is at least 45 years old one branch still produces delicious navel oranges. A patch of fungus roughly the size of a baseball mit has taken up residence on an area of the trunk where a large branch was removed many years ago. The tree has a few bare, dark brances but most of it appears to me rather healthy is there away to save this tree or should I have it removed? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 11 22:23:14 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:23:14 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Orange tree aging At 45 years your orange tree is nearing the end of its life expectancy, however I wouldn't give up on it yet; have the dead pruned out and water and fertilize adequately, it maay last a few more years. Goodd luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 11 22:23:10 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:23:10 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Myrtle dying Myrtle is suseptable to Texas Root Rot, however a plant aflicted with TRR will die during the late summer and fall. Could you be overwatering? Myrtle is quite drought tolerant, and if you are watering more often than once per week in summer then it is too often once the plant is established. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From nhahn@earthlink.net Mon Feb 12 00:42:24 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:42:24 -0700 (MST) From: nhahn@earthlink.net nhahn@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I recently bought 2 mandarin trees (Algerian Clementines), and when I brought them home and looked them up in the Sunset Western Gardens book, I learned they need to be cross polinated. Will the two I bought do the trick or does it have to be another variety of mandarin? I have an orange tree, grapefruit and lemon tree already. Would any of them work? Thanks for your help. From standingfox@yahoo.com Mon Feb 12 03:29:22 2001 Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:29:22 -0700 (MST) From: standingfox@yahoo.com standingfox@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Need to know the last frost dates for Cave Creek area of Maricopa County. Deer Park was the closest listing. If I do plantings now what do you recommend covering the plants with to prevent frost damage. thanks Don Gerstenschlager Cave Creek From Bonnie@labis.net Mon Feb 12 07:37:27 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:37:27 -0700 (MST) From: Bonnie@labis.net Bonnie@labis.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a dwarf lemon tree that is about ten years old. I do not know how to prune it properly, if at all. I'm told I shouldn't prune it except for the very ends of the branches. I cut off a large branch. Did I make a mistake? And how should I be pruning this tree? Thank you From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Feb 12 16:31:42 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:31:42 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] composting info Someone had asked about composting statistics. I just ran across this: > Composting can easily reduce by half the volume of material a household sends to > a landfill. If you don't care about accelerating the processing, just keep adding > material at the > top. Bury fresh kitchen scraps to prevent flies, and try to keep a balance of dry > "brown" materials and fresh "green" material. For more technical information, > try visiting RotWeb: http://www.a-horizon.com/compost/compost_menu.html The website has a great resource of information about composting, both practical "how to" info and "why" info (stats, articles, etc). Hope this helps for those who have been asking. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 16:26:11 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:26:11 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildflowers Greetings fellow wildflower fans! I wanted to share this note I received from a friend who leads hikes for Gilbert Parks and Rec. It sounds like it is going to be a glorious wildflower season, just a bit earlier than usual. Get out there and enjoy! - Sue Bass The wildflowers are blooming early and it is possible that this year will be even better than the gorgeous bloom we had in 1998. Sunday's Arizona Republic gave this page information for wildflower updates and identification. Take a look if you get a chance and get out there quick in case they don't last! http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html From dsavini@hotmail.com Mon Feb 12 17:21:21 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:21:21 -0700 (MST) From: dsavini@hotmail.com dsavini@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Where can I plant a pink jasmine vine. 5 Gallon would like to plant it against block fence facing east. Does it take full sun in the summer. Thank you so much for your time. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:35:09 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:35:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting References If you return to the website where you originally posted your question, you will see a section on links, one of which is composting. There are many effective ways to compost and alot depends on the volume of material you have, space in your yard and time to manage it. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm We also have publications on composting in the vegetables section of our pubs page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable You'll have to order it [instructions to do so are there] or you can see if the local library has our notebook in the Reference section, #635. Linda Guy Master Gardener jhayesfamily@prodigy.net wrote: > What is the best way to compost? I've seen many systems one can buy, but what fits for our climate? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:38:24 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:38:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus Citrus only needs to be pruned to maintain shape, remove diseased or dead wood or crossing branches that rub each other. Leaving the canopy lower protects the trunk from sunburn. Any foliage you can leave on the tree provides that much more in the way of nutrient-manufacturing [photosynthesis] capability to bear more/better fruit. Your tree will probably be fine, but remember that with citrus, less pruning is often more! Linda Guy Master Gardener Bonnie@labis.net wrote: > I have a dwarf lemon tree that is about ten years old. I do not know how to prune it properly, if at all. I'm told I shouldn't prune it except for the very ends of the branches. I cut off a large branch. Did I make a mistake? And how should I be pruning this tree? > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:42:34 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:42:34 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mandarin Pollinization The topic is covered in a great publication that is available online [AZ 1001] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus The tree is self-pollinating, but with another Algerian, you'll probably have better fruit production and reduce the risk of increased seed production which another mandarin variety might introduce. Linda Guy Master Gardener nhahn@earthlink.net wrote: > I recently bought 2 mandarin trees (Algerian Clementines), and when I brought them home and looked them up in the Sunset Western Gardens book, I learned they need to be cross polinated. Will the two I bought do the trick or does it have to be another variety of mandarin? I have an orange tree, grapefruit and lemon tree already. Would any of them work? Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:45:56 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:45:56 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation Requirements - Agave and Palms We have publications that can help you at this part of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Check out the online pubs AZ 1048 Care of Desert Plants and AZ1021 AZ Landscape palms. Also of interest, though you'd have to order it , is 8309 on Cactus, agave, etc. Linda Guy Master Gardener stevebethparker@kna.to wrote: > I just planted 2 agovey (spelled wrong im sure.) and a 2nd year med palm tree. how much water and how often,do each plan need. > clueless and in need of help...steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:49:01 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:49:01 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roaches in Compost We had a rousing discussion a few year's back that you might be able to find in our archives, which is in the same place that you originally placed your question. My personal opinion is that insect life in the compost [a] is not in my home or elsewhere in my yard and [b] serves a wonderful, albeit microscopic compost turning function for me. Several posters, including one of the ag agents, agreed with me. They love water and this sort of material and better that they find it there than trooping into your home to access same! Sorry, I know it's probably not the answer you want to hear. Linda Guy Master Gardener bmorriss@speedchoice.com wrote: > we have our own composting bin, but we're experiencing problems w/ roaches in the bottom portion of the bin. What can we do to eliminate this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lime-my-art@home.com Mon Feb 12 20:38:01 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:38:01 -0700 (MST) From: lime-my-art@home.com lime-my-art@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently planted a dwarf navel orange tree in our yard. How often should we fertilze it and when? Thanks in advance for your help. From like-my-art@home.com Mon Feb 12 20:38:18 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:38:18 -0700 (MST) From: like-my-art@home.com like-my-art@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We recently planted a dwarf navel orange tree in our yard. How often should we fertilze it and when? Thanks in advance for your help. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 12 21:25:40 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:25:40 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fertilizing Citrus Do not fertilize newly planted citrus trees until they have been in the ground a year, then apply three tablespoons of fertilizer three times a year, Feb., April, and July. The second year the amount can be increased. U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix,85040 has an excellent bulletin on citrus care in the home garden avaiable for $1.00. God luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon Feb 12 21:45:38 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:45:38 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] sloped basins? Has anyone used sloped square basins, where the flat bottom surface slopes down from ground level at one end to below ground at the other? The plants are grown in the lower 1/8 of the basin, which is filled with good soil. From jimbo1953@aol.com Mon Feb 12 22:16:00 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:16:00 -0700 (MST) From: jimbo1953@aol.com jimbo1953@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 22:49:22 2001 Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:49:22 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro It sounds like your Saguaro may have bacterial necrosis. I'd like to refer you to an on-line information sheet about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener jimbo1953@aol.com wrote: > my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 15:32:26 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:32:26 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Necrosis Check out the following page on our website and see if this doesn't fit what's happening with your saguaro. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Management is discussed there, too. Act quickly to contain this bacterial problem. Linda Guy Master Gardener jimbo1953@aol.com wrote: > my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 19:41:45 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:41:45 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Stem End Problem Does our website's discussion http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/stem-rot.htm sound like your problem? If so, management is discussed there as well. Linda Guy Master Gardener cram1402@aol.com wrote: > Each year my Valencia orange tree produces fruit that, when peeled, reveals a "pithy" dry portion, found on the stem end of the fruit. I had originally thought that it was frost injury, but the valley hasn't been that cold this year. Could it be that I didn't water it at some critical point in its fruiting stage? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 19:57:12 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:57:12 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bulbs in Phoenix This will be totally dependent upon the bulbs. Ones that do well here are Dutch iris and daffodils, although there are others. Ones that will usually not go more than a year include tulips. Keeping bulbs indoors in a cool, dry place over the summer, if there is nobody home, may be a solution. It would be beneficial to address specific bulb varieties, rather than give you very sketchy or generalized info that may not pertain to those that you have or will be receiving. Linda Guy Master Gardener jesue@c2i2.com wrote: > I recieved a once a month bulb assortment, for six months, preplanted in indoor containers. Once they have bloomed, how to I care for them so I can replant them outside. Can I store them until next fall, as we travel in the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From EMAILATFISHER@aol.com Tue Feb 13 20:04:27 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:04:27 EST From: EMAILATFISHER@aol.com EMAILATFISHER@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Music --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir I am a student at Manchester Metropolitan Univsity, Crewe, UK. I am studying the effects of rock and classical music on plant growth and would be grateful if you have any information on the subject. I currently have three sets of broad bean growing: one to rock, one to Mozart, and the other to nothing. The results so far are rather interesting. I would be grateful for any comments you may have. Angela Fisher --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir

I am a student at Manchester Metropolitan Univsity, Crewe, UK.

I am studying the effects of rock and classical music on plant growth and
would be grateful if you have any information on the subject.

I currently have three sets of broad bean growing: one to rock, one to
Mozart, and the other to nothing. The results so far are rather interesting.

I would be grateful for any comments you may have.


Angela Fisher --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:04:15 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:04:15 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Callas If I'm not mistaken, calla [zantedeschia] are rhizomes that are recommended to be divided when the flowers start to get very small. Planting time is recommended in Oct/Nov, with a March/April bloom season. They are said to do well in partial of full shade outdoors; the reference material I had indicated that white callas are easiest to grow, although yellow, black and pink ones are available too. Colors tend to need a slightly more acidic soil. They are nearly evergreen in mild winters, but they are deciduous in frost. I highly recommend that you look at the Sunset Western Garden Book for more specific information based on the types of callas you have. Linda Guy Master Gardener susy_1@msn.com wrote: > recently planted mature common white calla lillies in "mini oasis" on E. side of house. when took them out of the pots they were all "root-bound", each plant having 1 flower. live in Cave Creek just N. of scottsdale. they are in a largely shaded area & have survived the transplanting well. have never grown them before & will appreciate any info. you have about growing in our climate. when the flowers wilt should we cut them? how often should we feed? what months will they grow? when they die off do we cut them down to ground level? thank-you for anything you know about this. susan > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:09:28 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:09:28 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie Planting Times Onions/garlic/leeks are cool season crops that are generally planted in October. Tomatos, on the other hand, are warm season vegetables that can be planted as early as February with frost protection such as wall'o'waters or cloches. A general rule on what grows when: Cool season crops are roots, leaves, flowers or their buds; warm season vegetables are those that yield fruits. Check out our online publication for vegetable planting times at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener ahamilton@qwest.net wrote: > when is it time to plant onions and tomatoes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:20:00 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:20:00 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Conditions for Giant Bird of Paradise, Banana Giant bird of paradis [Strelitzia nicolai] prefer the type of lighting you've described. The Sunset Western Garden Book suggests that young plants be well fertilized to reach their full dramatic size, then stop feeding. The objective is to acquire and maintain size without growing too much that you need to dig it out and divide it. Keep dead leaves cut as well as excessive growth. Bananas [ensete] are large palm-like perennials that will die back in a cooler winter here. I think they prefer partial shade. Bananas [musa] are said to like full sun, though placement and care varies by species. Check out the AZ Chapter of the Cal. Rare Fruit Club at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm They might have more information on bananas. Linda Guy Master Gardener jimlisag@earthlink.net wrote: > will a giant bird of paradise, or banana plant grow in dirrect morning sunlight, and afternoon filtered light? > > Thanks! > Jim and Lisa > > P.S. We are looking for a tropical look w/o using palms behind our pools waterfall. We already have giant bamboo, and would like to add another large leafed plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:22:38 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:22:38 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost I don't know the answer but would like to provide you with some links http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm You could also contact the city sanitation departments that distribute recycled trash barrels to households for compost purposes. They no doubt have some statistics. I know that Phoenix has such a program. Linda Guy Master Gardener azwildbd@primenet.com wrote: > For an average household, annually - When a household composts, how much space or how much weight is saved by not going to the landfill? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:27:14 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:27:14 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Selection The number of trees you place depends on the volume of shade you prefer and the size of the trees. You need also to consider the proximity of power lines, sidewalks or walls whose foundations might be impacted by roots, the amount of water you are prepared to use, and whether you want decidous trees to allow in winter sun. You can get started in our publications listing http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm which has sections on citrus, desert adapted plants and ornamentals. There are links that discuss plants in the low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm The best thing for you to do is to visit a botanical garden and look at trees that you like that are established, so that you can see size and shape. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#adventures Linda Guy Master Gardener pauljnestor@yahoo.com wrote: > I live in Phoenix and my yard is aprox 20' by 45'. I am trying to decide on what trees to put in our yard. We would like a couple of cirus tees and maybe a eucalyptus. How can I find out if you can combine some trees with others? Also how many tree can I fit into our yard considering the size? > Thank you for you time and advise. > Paul > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:32:28 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:32:28 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus Gnats Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener kelly.ryan1@home.com wrote: > What should I do about soil gnats? I had them in just one potted plant in my home which was exposed to partial diffused sunlight, now they have expanded into most of my potted plants. What should I do to discourage their survival? Will my plants, which are now grasping to life, survive? Thank you very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:36:39 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:36:39 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Excess Grapefruit I thought that most of the food banks had volunteer gleaning crews. I've often seen them at work in the yards of my Arcadia neighborhood. I think there's a central function that handles all food banks. How about phoning the Arizona Association for Food Banks to see what they offer? Linda Guy Master Gardener djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net wrote: > I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to diminish the fruit production. > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From boneyjjd@aol.com Tue Feb 13 22:37:39 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:37:39 -0700 (MST) From: boneyjjd@aol.com boneyjjd@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to prune a Texas sage shrub? From kcountryman@sprintmail.com Tue Feb 13 22:43:59 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:43:59 -0700 (MST) From: kcountryman@sprintmail.com kcountryman@sprintmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Now that my kids are grown I want to convert our grass yard to desert landscape. What's the best and safest way to kill off the bermuda grass? From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Feb 13 22:45:08 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:45:08 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] more space between plants in arid climates? Is the intensive planting spacing suitable to the desert? If you're trying to maximize your use of natural rainwater, you'd want to minimize your plants per sf (since other plants compete for water). No? But if you want to maximize your use of supplementary irrigation, then you'd want to maximize your plants per sf. So one is led in both directions..... jk From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 00:11:52 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:11:52 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Texas Rangers I pruned my various leucophyllums in the last few weeks. Johnson's 'Pruning Planting & Care' in the plants for the aris west series says that January to February are the best times. Linda Guy Master Gardener boneyjjd@aol.com wrote: > When is the best time to prune a Texas sage shrub? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 00:18:31 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:18:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Intensive Gardening This is an excellent strategy, and I have used it as recently as this cool season, for annual vegetables. I'm not sure how to further respond, because I'm not sure what type of planting you are considering....landscape, flower borders, herb beds, etc. In general close proximity of plants lends to a slight increase in local humidity and makes it easier to apply water in a flood irrigation type of manner. But I have often witnessed in landscapes that people put in plants much too closely together for their eventual growth habit, with the result that massive pruning is required to keep everything in scale. Hope this answers your question. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Is the intensive planting spacing suitable to the desert? If you're trying > to maximize your use of natural rainwater, you'd want to minimize your > plants per sf (since other plants compete for water). No? But if you want > to maximize your use of supplementary irrigation, then you'd want to > maximize your plants per sf. So one is led in both directions..... > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Wed Feb 14 03:44:20 2001 Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:44:20 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Shrubs This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two years from little one-gallon plants. The one yellow bells (with orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is shorter but very bushy. The bottlebrushes are also full and getting quite tall. I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer). I'd like to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron out of the soil with all the watering. So I plugged the dripper lines last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering. I can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies to me. Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right thing? I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the bushes die. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
One of you folks = recently had=20 commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and = cutting back=20 on watering will retard growth without killing them.  =
 
I have some Arizona = Yellow=20 Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown = enormously=20 in two years from little one-gallon plants.  The one yellow bells = (with=20 orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow = flowers) is=20 shorter but very bushy.  The bottlebrushes are also full=20 and getting quite tall.   I have dripper lines and water = them at=20 varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer).  = I'd like=20 to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to = iron=20 deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron = out of the=20 soil with all the watering.  So I plugged the dripper lines last = weekend=20 thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants = instead=20 of giving them this regular watering.
 
I can't find that = commentary=20 that was posted but think that it applies to me.  Can someone = resend it or=20 let me know if I did the right thing?  I don't want to find out = that this=20 was a mistake and have the bushes die. 
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 13:59:55 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 06:59:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale In September of last year, a gentleman wrote to the AZ Republic from Scottsdale with advice he had received from Harper's Nursery regarding the treatment of pearl scale. He indicated that the combined use of an insecticide called Merit [I think it's registered for grub treatment, but not yet for pearl scale] helped manage the population. He also regularly applied water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. By lowering the soil pH, the scale's habitat less hospitable since it prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job completely, but rather kept the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from spreading. Many people simply try to remove the infected site to prevent spreading. Perhaps a combination of all of these will produce good results for you. Our website's comments on pearl scale can be found at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm but it has limited recommendations. We also have a publication on the topic, MC 45, which you can order by going to the pubs list on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn Sometimes your local library will have a notebook with our pubs in the reference section [noncirculating], call code 635. I have not fought the good fight personally, so I cannot attest to the efficacy of these strategies. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener mplatt@doitnow.com wrote: > We recently detected pearlscale in our grass > on our residential lot. We removed the pearlscale > as directed by the company (Western Sod) that > we bought the sod from. This was done by physically > removing the soil with pearlscale and refilling with > new soil. > > However, we met a neighbor on one of our walks who > told us that it can also be treated with muriatic > acid. Do you know if that is the case and what would > we mix the muriatic acid with to treat the sod? > > Thanks for your help. Look forward to your > response. > > Mary Platt > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 14 14:39:20 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:39:20 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] What does damp-off look like? I have some seedlings and cutting that look like someone had a pillow fight on them. Instead of just 'fuzz' (which I'm assuming is just mildew?) it looks like little white downy feathers on the soil. I used sterile medium. Is this damp-off? If so, what can/should I do? If I let the soil dry out completely won't my seedlings/cuttings die? I've done cuttings before and have never had this come up. Is this unique to the desert? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 14:41:09 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:41:09 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off We discuss damping-off, including management strategies, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/damp-off.htm [For future reference, you can find a lot of information in our website. In this case, if you use the index function on our home page, you would have seen damping off in the 'D' section.] Since I am on the arid gardener list server, there is no need to separately copy me on your requests! Hope you find this info helpful. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I have some seedlings and cutting that look like someone had a pillow > fight on them. Instead of just 'fuzz' (which I'm assuming is just > mildew?) it looks like little white downy feathers on the soil. I used > sterile medium. Is this damp-off? If so, what can/should I do? If I let > the soil dry out completely won't my seedlings/cuttings die? > > I've done cuttings before and have never had this come up. Is this > unique to the desert? > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KriegeP@juno.com Wed Feb 14 16:28:24 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:28:24 -0700 (MST) From: KriegeP@juno.com KriegeP@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Pruning Shrub Aster: I have a large bush about 5 feet high and 5 feet wide, which I was told was a shrub aster. It was completely covered with the most beautiful blue asters in fall. It is dormant now, and the leaves are brown. When should I prune it and how much should I prune? From punterbrink@uswest.net Thu Feb 15 01:41:51 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:41:51 -0700 (MST) From: punterbrink@uswest.net punterbrink@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in Tempe and have 2 mature orange trees (Arizona sweet and Valencia). These trees are probably more than 20 years old. About the middle of January they started dropping leaves. Then on day in the morning the ground was covered with oranges. The tree was producing a beautiful crop but the fruit has been dropping off. The AZ sweet has almost no leaves left. We water and fertilize regularly. What could have caused this? Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thank you From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Thu Feb 15 02:25:00 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:25:00 -0700 (MST) From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How does the frost tollerance of a lisbon lemmon (standard) compare with that of a Red Grapefruit(standard). I have had success with grapefruit and my neighbor has several oranges and tangerines, but neither of us has a lemmom. I live in a cooler area of Tucson (near a wash). Also, what is the maximum width of such a lemmom tree and what about growth rate. Chow......Max From schneider_4871@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 06:02:42 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:02:42 -0700 (MST) From: schneider_4871@email.msn.com schneider_4871@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Rose disease. I have some roses that are suffering the following characteristics: Leaf yellows, wilts and dies, Canes start dying back from cut ends. Stem turns brown, shrivels and then black. Growing tips of stems die. Lack of vigor. I suspect some sort of fungal diseas. This usually only happens to roses I recieve from an Northern California nursery. From schneider_4871@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 06:07:15 2001 Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:07:15 -0700 (MST) From: schneider_4871@email.msn.com schneider_4871@email.msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Saguaro problem: The top of the saguaro appears to be dead. Black. It appears limited to only the growing tip. It has also had a spot of rot that I promptly cut out and seems to have healed. It had 3/4 flowers last summer. Is it in trouble? Anything I can do? What resources books/people can I turn to? From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 15 21:07:25 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:07:25 -0700 From: Pamela Tremain Koch pamela@u.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:41:35 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:41:35 EST From: Krulich@aol.com Krulich@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering large trees Hi, I have two Aleppo pines - one has a 25' diameter canopy and the other has a 35' diameter canopy. My question is do I have to water them from the trunk (near it) all the way out to the drip line, or can I just water them at the drip line? The reason I ask is because it would take hundreds and hundreds of gallons to water the entire root zone at least 3' deep and I really couldn't afford it. What I would like to do is to lay some soaker hose around the drip line and just water it out there. Also, I have a huge eucalyptus tree with an awkward canopy. The drip line is about 22' from the trunk on one side and only 10' on the other side. Do I need to water it around the drip line or evenly around the trunk? Please let me know what you think I should do. Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:44:48 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:44:48 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lemons ,frost tender Lemons are more frost tender than grapefruit and would not be recommended for the cooler areas around Tucson. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:44:47 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:44:47 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rose Disease, blackened canes The symptoms you describe also came from another person and my answer is below. I think that if all the roses that have the symptoms you describe came from one nursery I would not buy from them again. The blackened canes that you describe could be caused by a canker fungus. When the blackened cane starts near the ground the fungus gains access to the cane through an injury to the cane. When the blackening of the cane starts at the tip of the cane, the cause again could be from dead heading or an insect injury. When I notice a blackened cane starting at the tip of the cane I find a bud that is two or three inches below the blackened area and cut back to that spot. When the blackened area is at the base of the cane the only thing that can be done is to remove the cane before the fungus spreads to the whole bush. Be sure to spray the bush with a fungicide and sterilize your pruners after making a cut. I find that when my rose bushes get to be 8 to 10 years old they start to decline. Sometimes severe pruning or transplanting to a new location will help. I find that a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bushes not only helps to insulate from the summer heat and cuts down on moisture loss but as the organic material breaks down it adds humus to the soil. In addition I use an organic fertilizer such as Hickmans Rose food once a year as well as alfalfa meal. For help in growing the best roses why not join one of the five rose societies in the Phoenix area. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian _______________________________________________ From ursula@goodnet.com Fri Feb 16 02:11:49 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:11:49 -0700 From: Ursula Miller ursula@goodnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune Mine got leggy, too, and pruning helped fill it out until the rabbits started eating it. One of my books says that pruning should be done in late spring and to avoid pruning in hot weather. Severe pruning inhibits flowering so don't prune more than 20% at a time. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Pamela Tremain Koch Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 2:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From redibird@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 03:05:43 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:05:43 -0700 (MST) From: redibird@yahoo.com redibird@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. From goodingpn@cs.com Fri Feb 16 03:13:59 2001 Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:13:59 -0700 (MST) From: goodingpn@cs.com goodingpn@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 19:10:03 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:10:03 -0800 (PST) From: john peder theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering large trees Best to water the last5-10 feet to the dripline and out past the dripline about 5 feet or so. This is the area most if the roots that take up water are locatedfor all plants. Continue to water deep (3-4 feet). --- Krulich@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I have two Aleppo pines - one has a 25' diameter > canopy and the other has a > 35' diameter canopy. > > My question is do I have to water them from the > trunk (near it) all the way > out to the drip line, or can I just water them at > the drip line? The reason > I ask is because it would take hundreds and hundreds > of gallons to water the > entire root zone at least 3' deep and I really > couldn't afford it. > > What I would like to do is to lay some soaker hose > around the drip line and > just water it out there. > > Also, I have a huge eucalyptus tree with an awkward > canopy. The drip line is > about 22' from the trunk on one side and only 10' on > the other side. Do I > need to water it around the drip line or evenly > around the trunk? > > Please let me know what you think I should do. > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From jennylynn85220@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 21:58:21 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:58:21 -0700 (MST) From: jennylynn85220@yahoo.com jennylynn85220@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Do you know where I can get a calender of vegetables that grow in my area (Apache Junction AZ)and when the best time to plant them? From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Fri Feb 16 23:32:34 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:32:34 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with At 08:05 PM 2/15/01 -0700, you wrote: >I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to >fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. I know some people use commercial soil, or even pure humus. But it's much cheaper to use native soil mixed with compost and amendments. 128 cf of bought soil will cost you some! If you mix in 6" of compost into the top 2 feet, you'd require 16 cf--not too bad. Where do you live and what's the native soil like? jk From pamela@u.arizona.edu Sat Feb 17 00:09:15 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:09:15 -0700 From: Pamela Tremain Koch pamela@u.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting cat's claw This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have some cat's claw and are thinking of moving them--does anyone = know if these vines transplant well? Thanks, Pamela ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We have some cat's claw and are = thinking  of=20 moving them--does anyone know if these vines transplant = well?
 
Thanks,
Pamela
------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 17 02:20:02 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:20:02 -0700 From: olin millero@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vegetable Planting Calendar There is a planting schedule for Maricopa County's low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > Do you know where I can get a calender of vegetables that grow in my area (Apache Junction AZ)and when the best time to plant them? From ursula@goodnet.com Sat Feb 17 01:48:27 2001 Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:48:27 -0700 From: Ursula Miller ursula@goodnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Gravel Around Plants I have the same problem with some of my gravel, too, and will be curious to see the response. I have wondered if it's a chemical reaction to Ironite or some other plant food. It's always around a plant - nowhere else. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of goodingpn@cs.com Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:14 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From shardie@azstarnet.com Sat Feb 17 17:32:04 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 10:32:04 -0700 (MST) From: shardie@azstarnet.com shardie@azstarnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to identify a bush growing in my neighborhood. I have posted pictures of the bush at: http://www.found-pets.org/adt/plant/acacia.html It appears to be a variety of acacia. I would like to purchase a bush if it is available commercially. If it is not, I would appreciate knowing what I should do to try to grow one from seed. Thanks for your help. Sidney in Tucson From PlantPerson@Prodigy.net Sat Feb 17 17:45:29 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 10:45:29 -0700 (MST) From: PlantPerson@Prodigy.net PlantPerson@Prodigy.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What are the watering requirements of indigenous desert plants which have been boxed in order to be saved and then replanted in the desert landscape? How often must they be watered once they are replanted and how much water do they need right after relocation and in the following years? From gocha@aol.com Sat Feb 17 20:52:28 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 13:52:28 -0700 (MST) From: gocha@aol.com gocha@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page do i need to do anything special to plant citrus tree? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 17 22:08:58 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 17:08:58 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Desert trees, watering Once a desert tree is established ( at least one year ) it can exist on very little water, however they will look better if deep watered periodically. For the first year I would suggest watering weekly. Check out this site on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 17 22:15:18 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 17:15:18 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus trees, Planting The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on tree care which includes planting at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu Sat Feb 17 22:21:45 2001 Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 15:21:45 -0700 (MST) From: d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We have a huge Allepo Pine in our backyard. We've noticed lately a couple of large dead branches high in the tree, although some look broken. Does it need feeding? We live off of 7 St. and Glendale Ave. in Phoenix. We believe the soil is good. What can we do to keep this tree healthy? We really like the tree and want it to live as long as possible. It was probably planted in the late 50's. What is the normal life span for an aleppo? We had it trimmed about 4 years ago. If we build a addition to the house, how far away from the trunk of the tree should any foundation be? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 18 19:49:15 2001 Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:49:15 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Alleppo Pine has dead limbs The best thing you can do to keep an old tree healthy is to deep water it periodically and by doing this they will live a long time. Pines do not do well with air polution, we've had questions from people whose property backs up to the Superstition Freeway whose pines are dying and the only answer we can give them is the problem is air polution. As for your new construction, any time the roots of a tree are cut the tree will go into shock. Whether or not the tree lives will depend on the tree's health at the time that the roots are cut and how many of the roots are cut. The roots of the pine probably extend out 1 1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the drip line. I would guess that the pine would survive if the new construction did not come closer thsn the drip line of the tree provided the tree is healthy. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Mon Feb 19 13:14:52 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:14:52 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Gravel Around Plants This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi - I went to askme.com and posed this question because I'm not really sure that this is a plant question, per se for the Ag people. Here is my first response from askme.com swwelsh gave this response on 2/18/2001: It sounds like some sort of mold or fungus. It occurs near the plants because the plants get water and provide shade, and its hard to wash off because the rocks are porous and the black stuff gets into them. Spraying the rocks with a fungicide might help, but the fungus or whatever it is may be in the soil. You could try putting some landscape fabric under the gravel near the plants - that would help the gravel dry out and keep soil fungii from spreading Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi - I went to = askme.com and=20 posed this question because I'm not really sure that this is a plant = question,=20 per se for the Ag people.  Here is my first response from=20 askme.com
 
swwelsh = gave this=20 response on 2/18/2001:
It sounds like some = sort of=20 mold or fungus. It occurs near the plants because the plants get water = and=20 provide shade, and its hard to wash off because the rocks are porous and = the=20 black stuff gets into them. Spraying the rocks with a fungicide might = help, but=20 the fungus or whatever it is may be in the soil. You could try putting = some=20 landscape fabric under the gravel near the plants - that would help the = gravel=20 dry out and keep soil fungii from spreading
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940-- From James.Wawrzynek@Honeywell.com Mon Feb 19 16:52:54 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:52:54 -0700 From: Wawrzynek, James James.Wawrzynek@Honeywell.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with Where do you find good clean native soil for raised bed vegetable gardening? I called a numerous suppliers but all they sell is fill dirt that could be contaminated with Bermuda. Also, how deep must the raised beds be to grow vegetables? I was going to make mine 3' deep and fill the bottom half with gravel and rocks (to keep out invasive roots) giving me 18 inches of soil on top for planting. Thanks, James -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Kandell [mailto:jkandell@email.arizona.edu] Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 4:33 PM To: redibird@yahoo.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with At 08:05 PM 2/15/01 -0700, you wrote: >I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to >fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. I know some people use commercial soil, or even pure humus. But it's much cheaper to use native soil mixed with compost and amendments. 128 cf of bought soil will cost you some! If you mix in 6" of compost into the top 2 feet, you'd require 16 cf--not too bad. Where do you live and what's the native soil like? jk _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From trgolf@webtv.net Mon Feb 19 17:34:51 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:34:51 -0700 (MST) From: trgolf@webtv.net trgolf@webtv.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How long can citrus remain on the tree? From www.winesaver@home.com Mon Feb 19 21:30:54 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 14:30:54 -0700 (MST) From: www.winesaver@home.com www.winesaver@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Why are my tomatoes leaves curled and purple on the underside. From umiller@azdps.com Mon Feb 19 22:01:31 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:01:31 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] More on black gravel around plants This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, now we can put a name to it - tattooing. Here is another answer from askme.com. There was an assumption that it's the driveway that is the problem, but that's neither here nor there. This staining is called tatooing. The stones are picking up the black (dye) from plant and compost material in the soil. I would suggest that your pink stone has been treated to accept coloring. I would like to suggest that you could try to remedy your situation by putting some garden-hard-plastic border between the stones and your plants. It comes in 25 ft lengths and can be pushed into the soil to create a good border to hold back water and rain wash from the plants flowing onto the driveway. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Well, now we can = put a name to=20 it - tattooing.  Here is another answer from askme.com.  There = was an=20 assumption that it's the driveway that is the problem, but that's = neither here=20 nor there.
 
This staining is = called=20 tatooing. The stones are picking up the black (dye) from plant and = compost=20 material in the soil.
I would suggest that your pink stone has been = treated=20 to accept coloring.

I would like to suggest that you could try to = remedy=20 your situation by putting some garden-hard-plastic border between the = stones and=20 your plants. It comes in 25 ft lengths and can be pushed into the soil = to create=20 a good border to hold back water and rain wash from the plants flowing = onto the=20 driveway.

Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640-- From Krulich@aol.com Mon Feb 19 22:48:21 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:48:21 EST From: Krulich@aol.com Krulich@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Apricot Trees I have an apricot tree that is approximately 6 years old. It's never produced well and I would like to fertilize it this year. When is the best time to fertilize it and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I have a bag of ammonium sulfate that I was planning on using. Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 19 22:56:00 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:56:00 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, How long can they be left on the tree I have left citrus on the tree until May, the longer they stay on the tree the sweeter they get up to a point. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From myerscamie@compuserve.com Mon Feb 19 23:21:03 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:21:03 -0700 (MST) From: myerscamie@compuserve.com myerscamie@compuserve.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When I am mowing my yard full of weeds is it nessasary to bag them to keep them from multiplying? Tumble weeds and other flowering weeds. From joan@dryaz.com Mon Feb 19 23:48:48 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:48:48 -0700 (MST) From: joan@dryaz.com joan@dryaz.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? thanks! From joan@dryaz.com Mon Feb 19 23:49:35 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:49:35 -0700 (MST) From: joan@dryaz.com joan@dryaz.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? thanks! sincerely, joan yagoda From ZTV@earthlink.net Tue Feb 20 01:32:18 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:32:18 -0700 (MST) From: ZTV@earthlink.net ZTV@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I have just finished an extensive remodeling of my small Phoenix, Arizona backyard. It is not until all the construction and excavation was done that I realized I have no firm idea what vegetation to use. Maybe you could make some suggestions… There is an existing row of Boganvias spaced about six feet apart against a block wall that I plan to extend with three more of these plants. What other type of foliage would you suggest that I plant in between them? My goal is to have a rather lush desert look for this section (without cactus plants because of visiting children). I also have two planters with about 15 square feet of usable surface area on the opposite side of the yard. This area is greener looking with a large shade tree and grass. Any suggestions for year around plants in these planters? I am a tormented do-it-yourselfer who can do almost anything, yet usually knows little about how to accomplish such tasks until I am in the middle of them. I want to be more informed this time. So, help me choose the paint to fill the pallet! Be cool, Z-Man From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 02:06:26 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:06:26 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Warm Season Herbs I'd like to direct you to our archives and a reply to a past question regarding cool season and warm season herbs. You can view this response by fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005635.html We also have two publications available on growing herbs here in the low desert. You can order them from the Cooperative Extension service by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm scroll down to the heading Vegetables and you will find the two publications, MC69 entitled "Herbs" and Q140 entitled "Growing Your Own Savory Herbs". Many of the library branches in Maricopa County also have a binder in General Reference that contains these publications and you can make photo copies of them. Good Luck, Sue Bass Master Gardener joan@dryaz.com wrote: > soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? > > thanks! > sincerely, joan yagoda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Skimojo@aol.com Tue Feb 20 03:42:47 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:42:47 -0700 (MST) From: Skimojo@aol.com Skimojo@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time of year to graft citrus tree's. Thank you from Mesa, Az. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 04:34:25 2001 Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:34:25 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting Citrus You can view a publication on-line on the subject of budding (grafting) citrus. Just go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf Budding is done in the spring or the fall. The publication will give you very information. Sue Bass Master Gardener Skimojo@aol.com wrote: > When is the best time of year to graft citrus tree's. Thank you from Mesa, Az. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 14:31:50 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:31:50 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raised bed soil As a follow up to JK's excellent response, I have also added up to a third by volume of 3/8" minus gravel [1/3 third composted manure and 1/3 desert soil] for those beds where I put Mediterranean herbs that detest sitting in water. I learned this from an MG oldtimer whose specialty was herbs. This has helped with drainage and with keeping their 'feet' dry. This was a large enough bed that I was dealing with small truckloads of each component. The only time I actually purchased a truckload of good topsoil was years ago when I started my veggie patch [10 x 30]. We had actually dug out the top 10" of common bermuda and soil, because I didn't want any chance that residual bermuda would remain. But this was simply a matter of personal preference; working with native soils and amendments is usually a good route to go. Linda Guy Master Gardener redibird@yahoo.com wrote: > I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 14:34:53 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:34:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus I too think that this is a fungus that is native to the soil/area. We did have a very wet autumn going into a cooler winter that we've had in recent years. Rather than fungicide, I will often try to trim the lowest branches of the plant to provide air, light, heat to the area. This would be a challenge with ground covers, I admit. Linda Guy Master Gardener goodingpn@cs.com wrote: > i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:06:31 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:06:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscaping Backyard Dear Fellow Tormented: Oh does THAT ever sound familiar. My husband and I can always manage to get just about anything done [his favorite expression is "the impossible just takes a little longer"] but I always agonize over the perfect plants and their placements. Luckily, I am becoming increasingly comfortable with the portability of even my inground plants, trying them out in a number of places over the years. My yards are always works in process and never completed canvases. There are terrific booklets put out by AMWUA, including and absolutely stunning new piece called Xeriscape. Check them out for lots of ideas.... http://www.amwua.org/ Most of the older ones are in the nurseries. I received the new one unsolicited in the mail, probably because I am a Master Gardener. I don't know if it too will be in the nurseries, but the city water departments usuallyd distribute them too. Linda Guy Master Gardener ZTV@earthlink.net wrote: > Hello, > I have just finished an extensive remodeling of my small Phoenix, Arizona backyard. It is not until all the construction and excavation was done that I realized I have no firm idea what vegetation to use. Maybe you could make some suggestions… > > There is an existing row of Boganvias spaced about six feet apart against a block wall that I plan to extend with three more of these plants. What other type of foliage would you suggest that I plant in between them? My goal is to have a rather lush desert look for this section (without cactus plants because of visiting children). I also have two planters with about 15 square feet of usable surface area on the opposite side of the yard. This area is greener looking with a large shade tree and grass. Any suggestions for year around plants in these planters? > > I am a tormented do-it-yourselfer who can do almost anything, yet usually knows little about how to accomplish such tasks until I am in the middle of them. I want to be more informed this time. So, help me choose the paint to fill the pallet! > > Be cool, > Z-Man > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:13:53 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:13:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Control If you use your mower's bag and dispose of the clippings, you will be minimizing the spread of weed seeds in your yard. Keeping them cut BEFORE they begin to flower and set seed is a better strategy. If these are cool season annual weeds, you may not see another cycle until next fall when the temps come down and the cool season begins again. If these are in fact annual weeds you might consider applying a preemergent next fall to minimize seed germination. We have several pubs on weed control; instructions on ordering them are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener myerscamie@compuserve.com wrote: > When I am mowing my yard full of weeds is it nessasary to bag them to keep them from multiplying? Tumble weeds and other flowering weeds. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:20:11 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:20:11 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Apricot Trees Sometimes the problem is that you have a single tree of a variety that requires cross pollination [ie is not self-fruitful]. Another problem could be that you planted a tree that requires more winter chill hours than you currently experience in your locale. Here's some reading material for you: Our pubs list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm has a section on Fruits and Nuts. Check out MC 90 in particular to determine the fruiting characteristics of your particular apricot. For care practices, see the relevant chapter of the online MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Best of luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > I have an apricot tree that is approximately 6 years old. It's never > produced well and I would like to fertilize it this year. When is the best > time to fertilize it and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I have a bag > of ammonium sulfate that I was planning on using. > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:27:24 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:27:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Warren Pears I'm not sure what to recommend, except that this type is not considered suitable for the low desert environment. Check out MC90 on Fruit and Nut Varieties for our locale from our pubs list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Someone at the AZ Chapter of the California Rare Fruit club might have some ideas. They are listed in our garden club list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener stognermd@netdoor.com wrote: > i want to buy a Warren pear tree. Know where I can find that particular type? > thanks. steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:34:02 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:34:02 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Now's the time to be a-plantin' tomatoes and the February newsletter of eLandscape had a wonderful piece on the subject. http://www.elandscape.com/ This was written by Mary Irish, who used to be at the helm of Public Horticulture at the DBG. Large fruiting tomatoes don't generally do well here. For containers, a determinate variety [fixed length] is best. After bearing once, they don't bear much more fruit. Indetermnate vines usually take a bit longer to bear the first crop, but keep setting fruit as long as temps are in a range where the pollen won't burn. I've had success with Early Girl and Celebrity. Most cherry and pear tomatoes offered at my favorite nursery do fantastically well for me. The latter have been my most prolific. Linda Guy Master Gardener patricbain@aol.com wrote: > Variety of tomato which can be grown in Maricopa county in a container or direct into bed successfully. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:35:11 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:35:11 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Temps I don't have an answer, but suggest you check out the weather links on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/weather.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener standingfox@yahoo.com wrote: > Need to know the last frost dates for Cave Creek area of Maricopa County. Deer Park was the closest listing. > > If I do plantings now what do you recommend covering the plants with to prevent frost damage. > > thanks > > Don Gerstenschlager > Cave Creek > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Feb 20 15:47:24 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:47:24 -0700 (MST) From: cenalmor@yahoo.com cenalmor@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a sweet acacia on my front yard. I don't know how old it is, but it's about 15 ft tall. Last year it bloomed in late January, and this year it hasn't yet, and there's not even a hint of blooming any time soon. Care has been the same in the last couple of years...that is, almost no care at all since it's so well adapted. Has anything different happened with the weather this year that may cause a late bloom? The tree doesn't look unhealthy, it's green. I did notice a lot of leaves dropping in December, but that's about it. I'm just hoping the tree is ok, I don't want to miss out on it's beautiful bloom and scent this year. Thanks, Barbara From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:49:39 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:49:39 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Shrubs --------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This practice is particularly recommended for native trees. Mary Irish has promulgated a practice of flooding native trees a couple times in the summer, emulating the receipt of several monsoon washes in the native environment. This is after the first year of establishment, however. The practice was reinforced by Terry Mikel during my advanced tree training class at MCCE. I simply use the hose, even though my trees had emitters. I've turned off that cycle on my irrigation box. I could, of course, have added emitters and moved them all to follow the canopy of the tree, but I'm lazy and its just as easy for me to pull out the hose with a small sprinkler, leave it on 10-24 hours twice in the summer. Shrubs, however, are another matter. I know I could turn off the stations that water the brittlebush and Texas rangers, but there are other natives on the same lines that look better with a bit more water. Hence my brittlebush are always green in the summer, as opposed to the white/grey leaf typical of limited water in the wild. I don't have specific experience with bottlebrush and yellow bells. Why not experiment to see if you can space out the watering schedule to once every 2-3 weeks? Mine are on such a schedule. [Again, this is after at least one season of establishment.] Ursula Miller wrote: > One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - > that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth > without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush > bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two > years from little one-gallon plants. The one yellow bells (with > orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is > shorter but very bushy. The bottlebrushes are also full and getting > quite tall. I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels > during the year (less in winter, more in summer). I'd like to retard > this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron > deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron > out of the soil with all the watering. So I plugged the dripper lines > last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep > water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering.I > can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies > to me. Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right > thing? I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the > bushes die. Ursula Miller --------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This practice is particularly recommended for native trees. Mary Irish has promulgated a practice of flooding native trees a couple times in the summer, emulating the receipt of several monsoon washes in the native environment. This is after the first year of establishment, however. The practice was reinforced by Terry Mikel during my advanced tree training class at MCCE.

I simply use the hose, even though my trees had emitters. I've turned off that cycle on my irrigation box. I could, of course, have added emitters and moved them all to follow the canopy of the tree, but I'm lazy and its just as easy for me to pull out the hose with a small sprinkler, leave it on 10-24 hours twice in the summer.

Shrubs, however, are another matter. I know I could turn off the stations that water the brittlebush and Texas rangers, but there are other natives on the same lines that look better with a bit more water. Hence my brittlebush are always green in the summer, as opposed to the white/grey leaf typical of limited water in the wild. I don't have specific experience with bottlebrush and yellow bells. Why not experiment to see if you can space out the watering schedule to once every 2-3 weeks? Mine are on such a schedule. [Again, this is after at least one season of establishment.]

Ursula Miller wrote:

 One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two years from little one-gallon plants.  The one yellow bells (with orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is shorter but very bushy.  The bottlebrushes are also full and getting quite tall.   I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer).  I'd like to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron out of the soil with all the watering.  So I plugged the dripper lines last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering.I can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies to me.  Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right thing?  I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the bushes die. Ursula Miller 
--------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:50:55 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:50:55 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can anyone help Sherryl identify her fungus/mold? --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 73341 invoked by uid 0); 14 Feb 2001 15:04:38 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Feb 2001 15:04:38 -0000 Received: (qmail 43845 invoked by uid 0); 14 Feb 2001 15:04:37 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO cepheus.azstarnet.com) (169.197.56.195) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Feb 2001 15:04:37 -0000 Received: from AuroraNow.org (dialup002ip231.tus.azstarnet.com [169.197.14.231]) by cepheus.azstarnet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA11906 for ; Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:04:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:37:08 -0700 Message-ID: <3A8AA624.3A0C80BA@AuroraNow.org> From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sent-via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ Organization: AuroraNow Foundation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD {TLC;RETAIL} (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off References: <200101081839.LAA24404@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A8A8F5B.DD040C53@qwest.net> <3A8A9898.344B29D6@AuroraNow.org> <3A8A9904.5A498EEC@qwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hi Linda, Sorry for the double post earlier, I didn't realize I had clicked on a reply-all. I read that page on damp off at the ag. site before I posted the question, but it didn't answer my question about the downy-feathery looking stuff I'm getting. It doesn't sound like it's damp-off but the page doesn't specify whether damp off 'looks' like anything, only the symptoms. I've already done the suggestions for management, so maybe I'm just getting some harmless mold or mildew from the dampness? Thanks. I get so much useful information from the list and always enjoy benefitting from your expertise. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:53:29 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:53:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Excess Grapefruit What a shame that it all has to go to waste. Can any local church groups take you on as a community service project for the local food banks' behalf? Yes, it is adviseable to remove the fruit that you cannot eat, although most people will let it ripen on the tree through about April [a general rule] since citrus does not ripen after it is picked. What is more important is getting off the ground to avoid rot, disease and insect infestation. Hope this helps. Linda djacksonsprint2 wrote: > I have, they only have volunteers for the West Side Food Bank. The East > Valley told me that they would take them if I would pick, box and deliver > them. I don't mind picking them but to buy the boxes and deliver them is > cost prohibitive for me. I am assuming that it is better for the trees to > remove the fruit????? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda Guy > To: > Cc: Arid_gardener > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 1:36 PM > Subject: Excess Grapefruit > > > I thought that most of the food banks had volunteer gleaning crews. I've > often seen them at work in the yards of my Arcadia neighborhood. I think > there's a central function that handles all food banks. How about phoning > the Arizona Association for Food Banks to see what they offer? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net wrote: > > > > > I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the > trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even > give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the > fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to > diminish the fruit production. > > > thank you > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 16:03:17 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:03:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Leaf and Fruit Drop Had you recently fertilized your trees? This sounds to me like a fertilizer burn...too much and inadequately watered into the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener punterbrink@uswest.net wrote: > We live in Tempe and have 2 mature orange trees (Arizona sweet and Valencia). These trees are probably more than 20 years old. About the middle of January they started dropping leaves. Then on day in the morning the ground was covered with oranges. The tree was producing a beautiful crop but the fruit has been dropping off. The AZ sweet has almost no leaves left. We water and fertilize regularly. > > What could have caused this? Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Feb 20 16:49:07 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:49:07 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with At 09:52 AM 2/19/01 -0700, you wrote: >Where do you find good clean native soil for raised bed vegetable gardening? >I called a numerous suppliers but all they sell is fill dirt that could be >contaminated with Bermuda. Also, how deep must the raised beds be to grow >vegetables? I was going to make mine 3' deep and fill the bottom half with >gravel and rocks (to keep out invasive roots) giving me 18 inches of soil on >top for planting. Where do you live James? Your soil can't be harder than here in Tucson. By native soil I meant whatever soil I could dig up with a fork and pick underneath the bed. Using multiple swipes, a few inches per day, in my Tucson plot this has varied from a few inches to about a foot. If it's too hard to dig I don't put a garden there. :-) A new bed I'm starting is only going down about a foot, so I am adding about another foot of compost and soil. It helps to flood and dig in a couple days. What I do is dig as much as I can, and then add enough soil for two feet. You could also gather soil from other parts of your yard as well. Or even from neighbors or abandoned areas, if it came to it. (I just found some a few cf of humus mysteriously sitting in a pile in an abandoned lot yesterday.) jk From jbbell310@cs.com Tue Feb 20 22:26:56 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:26:56 -0700 (MST) From: jbbell310@cs.com jbbell310@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I had a citrus tree that died last year and took it out. I am planning to plant another tree at the same site and it appears that the soil has poor drainage. I have dug 2 feet deep and wide, when it rains this fills with water and it sits in there for over 2 weeks. Is this caliche? If so how far down should I dig to get past it? Is there anything I can use to soften this or improve the drainage? This area is in our side yard and receives a lot of water from the roof when it rains. I am sure the other tree died because of this poor drainage. Please help. Thanks, B Bell From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 20 23:11:51 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:11:51 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus died because of wet feet You are correct in assuming that the poor drainage was the cause of the citrus tree dying. If you have caliche it is very difficult to dig through with out power equipment. Renting a jackhammer could be one option. If you were lucky you might be able to drill a hole through the caliche so that the water would drain. The other option would be to find another location. The depth at which you find caliche can vary from one spot to another. If you dig another hole be sure to fill it with water to determine if it will drain in 24 hours, If it won't drain then do not plant. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pamrapier@home.com Tue Feb 20 23:29:17 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:29:17 -0700 (MST) From: pamrapier@home.com pamrapier@home.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How long can you store vegetable seeds? From scayuga@aol.com Wed Feb 21 05:41:38 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:41:38 -0700 (MST) From: scayuga@aol.com scayuga@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in planting several Buddleia (Butterfly Bush). I reside in Fountain Hills, AZ.and am wondering if these have a particular preference for exposure, light conditions. Is there a preferable variety and when should these be planted ? How far from a block/stucco wall should they be planted ? Thanks for your help ? From Scayuga@aol.com Wed Feb 21 05:45:46 2001 Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:45:46 -0700 (MST) From: Scayuga@aol.com Scayuga@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have cut back several Desert Broom bushes and would like to completely eradicate then from my property. Is there anything, short of digging the rootballs up, that I can pour on these 1 ft. stumps to accomplish this ? Thanks From d4sberg@aol.com Wed Feb 21 15:58:59 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:58:59 -0700 (MST) From: d4sberg@aol.com d4sberg@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page This past year I read something about boric acid for citrus trees. Is there any value in using it? Or is regular feeding enough? From sefair_007@msn.com Wed Feb 21 16:15:25 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:15:25 -0700 (MST) From: sefair_007@msn.com sefair_007@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Request care of valencia orange tree and a lemon tree. Something I can download, or may I pick up a brochure at 13815 Camino del Sol? Thank you. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Feb 21 18:29:57 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:29:57 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] beans or peppers better suited to raised beds v level plots? I have one plot of deep soil at ground level and another fifteen inch deep raised bed. I was thinking the raised bed would be better suited to peppers and tomatoes than to the beans, since it was warmer and shallower. Thoughts? Does it matter? jk From mgood@txnla.org Wed Feb 21 20:22:50 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:22:50 -0700 (MST) From: mgood@txnla.org mgood@txnla.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have heard that gardens with a water feature can qualify as Xeriscape if they do not contain fountains. Is this true? Marilyn Good, Texas Nursery & Landscape Association From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 21 22:36:05 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:36:05 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] frost damaged aloe and agaves First: > Can anyone help Sherryl identify her fungus/mold? Thanks Linda, I've given up on my mold. Whatever it is, it clears up when I let the soil dry out a bit and it doesn't seem to be bothering any of my seedlings. I actually found a tiny mushroom next to a just-emerged beargrass stalk. Go figure. I have an aloe vera and some "mystery" agaves outside that got frost damaged and the outer leaves/pads are brown and shriveled. The insides look fine and there are even new leaves (are they called "leaves"?) coming up so I think they'll be fine, but they look pathetic. After it warms a bit more, can I cut off the damaged outside leaves without harming the plants? Also, I have some seed varieties that just don't seem to want to germinate. P. Spectabilis, desert beardtongue which I had cold stratified and a few others which weren't supposed to need stratifying. It's been over 2 months on some of them with no sign of life yet. At what point do I give up on them? I had 3 out of 3 dozen brittlebush seeds finally germinate a week ago, but nothing new since, and a few of my sotols and beargrass took a good 5-6 weeks to start, so I'm not sure how patient I should be. (on the opposite spectrum, I think I had a 99% germ. rate on soaptree yuccas and have so many I won't know where to put them all. ha) I'm wondering if my trial and error on too dry/too damp just did some of the seeds in? How the heck do some of these things actually make it in the too dry, too wet, too cold outside world?? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From engstromma@aol.com Wed Feb 21 22:11:49 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:11:49 -0700 (MST) From: engstromma@aol.com engstromma@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature orange tree and a mature grapefruit tree in my back yard. How much fertilizer should I use on them, how often should I apply fertilizer and when? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 21 22:51:13 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:51:13 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] oleander question One more question... I also have 2 dwarf oleanders planted right after we moved in here last June (I know, bad timing). They actually did fine all summer despite the heat and drought, but now the pink oleander has brown tips on the leaves and the red one the leaves are folded and it just doesn't look happy. I've been watering them about every 2-3 weeks over the winter when there hasn't been rain. Two rose bushes I planted at the same time about 10 feet away against the same eastern wall had blooms until the middle of December and are already starting to get new spring growth. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From valpogrl@aol.com Thu Feb 22 00:42:39 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:42:39 -0700 (MST) From: valpogrl@aol.com valpogrl@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help! This spring my lawn is totally taken over by weeds. I am an organic gardener...hence I don't use weed and feed, round-up etc. Anyone have any ideas other than hand digging up each weed? Thanks From colecrk@aol.com Thu Feb 22 01:17:38 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:17:38 -0700 (MST) From: colecrk@aol.com colecrk@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page what is the best kind of citrus tree to grow in a container in a desert landscape yard with pool lots of sun From cenalmor@yahoo.com Thu Feb 22 01:56:04 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:56:04 -0800 (PST) From: Barbara Cenalmor cenalmor@yahoo.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] baja ruelli I have a pretty large baja ruellia in my backyard, which until this past winter was full and beautiful, and always blooming. Then in the winter it got frost bite, and a lot of the leaves and shoots turned dark purple. I have held on the trimming because I was afraid it would get cold again. Today I thought I'd do it and I saw that most of the leaves are full of holes. I looked everywhere for a bug and can't find one,but there's definitely one somewhere because this plant covers an area of about 8 sq feet and it's about 3 ft tall and there's holes everywhere. Is there a bug that's known for liking this plant? If so, what's the best method to get rid of it? I'd rather not use chemicals if possible. Is it safe to trim the plant a bit so it doesn't look so bad, or should I assume it's too weak to stand it? Thanks, I looked all over the internet and all my master gardener info, but didn't find anything that could help me. Barbara __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 22 03:41:21 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 20:41:21 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus feeding, etc. There is a nice article today (2/21) in the Arizona Republic about caring for trees with a month-by-month listing of what needs to be done each month (feeding, etc.) Maybe you can get a copy of it. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of engstromma@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:12 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature orange tree and a mature grapefruit tree in my back yard. How much fertilizer should I use on them, how often should I apply fertilizer and when? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 22 04:00:16 2001 Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:00:16 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia Bush Planting I live in Peoria and have a buddleia davidii black knight against my stucco wall facing east. It gets a lot of sun but also a little dappled shade from a mesquite tree but not all that much. I planted it last summer (1 gallon) so it didn't do much until about early January this year when it started taking off. It is now about 3 feet wide and getting to be 3 feet high - very full and green and still growing! I can't believe how it started growing so suddenly and fast - seems like it shot up overnight. I also had a buddleia globosa (the furry one with the orange balls that looks like something from another planet) that was doing well in the same area until the rabbits ate it. My book says that all buddleia's do well just about everywhere. Most of the ones you see here in the nurseries are the davidii types with the occasional globosa (the one with the orange balls). But you can order different types from High Country Gardens which specializes in plants for western gardens. You can order their catalog at www.highcountrygardens.com Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of scayuga@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:42 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in planting several Buddleia (Butterfly Bush). I reside in Fountain Hills, AZ.and am wondering if these have a particular preference for exposure, light conditions. Is there a preferable variety and when should these be planted ? How far from a block/stucco wall should they be planted ? Thanks for your help ? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 22 06:44:39 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:44:39 EST From: Krulich@aol.com Krulich@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus feeding, etc. In a message dated 2/21/01 9:27:31 PM, umiller@azdps.com wrote: <> Nice article indeed. I was able to find it at http://www.azcentral.com:80/home/garden/0221citrusside21.html. Tom From Kwood@uswest.net Thu Feb 22 14:16:31 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 07:16:31 -0700 (MST) From: Kwood@uswest.net Kwood@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fruit tree would you reccomend I plant to allow for the following: South back yard, easy maintenance, required for a somewhat confined location, will have reflective heat from wall, will not grow to large. Somehwta of an oasis back yard. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:23 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:23 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bulletin on Citrus care The Sun City office should have the bulletin on citrus care. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:29 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:29 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Oleanders with brown leaf tips Sherryl, Are you deep watering your oleanders ? Shallow watering will not flush the salt out of the root zone and salt will cause the leaftips to turn brown. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:22 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fertilizing Citrus Your mature citrus should be fertilized thre times per year in Feb., April, and July. The total fertilizer for the year should be one pound of actual nitrogen. This means if you use amonium sulfate, which has an analysis of 21-0-0 or 21 % nitrogen. Your annual usage of this fertilizer should be approximately 5 pounds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com Thu Feb 22 22:28:34 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:28:34 -0700 (MST) From: Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am relocating to Phoenix from CT and am building a new home in Anthem, AZ. I will be responsible for landscaping both my front and back yards and am very unfamiliar with desert landscapes. Could you recommend a landscaper in the area who utilize xerioscape landscaping techniques, gives good advice and has a good reputation? Any help you could provide would be appreciated. I especially would like to avoid costly mistakes. Thanks. From rnan3815@aol.com Thu Feb 22 22:54:26 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:54:26 -0700 (MST) From: rnan3815@aol.com rnan3815@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page ORANGE TREE PLANTED 05-00 IN METRO AREA.AT GROUND LEVAL TRUNK MEASURES 2 INCHES DIAMETER. AT GROUND LEVAL A BRANCH IS COMING FROM TRUNK UP AND GROWING UP THRU OTHER BRANCHES OF TREE. IT MEASURES 3/4 INCH IN DIAMETER AT BASE(GROUND LEVAL) WHERE IT COMES OFF TRUNK. SHOULD THID BRANCH BE CUT OFF? IF SO SHOULD IT BE PAINTED WITH PAINT? THANK YOU. RNAN3815@AOL.COM From manoj.chandran@philips.com Thu Feb 22 23:32:06 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:32:06 -0600 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com manoj.chandran@philips.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems etc and how well it grows in Arizona. Thanks. Manoj Chandran. From DDRJJ23@HOME.COM Thu Feb 22 23:40:33 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:40:33 -0700 (MST) From: DDRJJ23@HOME.COM DDRJJ23@HOME.COM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page WE WOULD LIKE TO GROW OKRA IN POTS. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS WILL BE APPRECIATED, THIS WILL BE OUR FIRST ATTEMPT. From jmlkeenan@aol.com Fri Feb 23 03:40:54 2001 Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:40:54 -0700 (MST) From: jmlkeenan@aol.com jmlkeenan@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page when is the best time to plant sun flower seeds From K_wood@uswest.net Fri Feb 23 14:07:28 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:07:28 -0700 (MST) From: K_wood@uswest.net K_wood@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What type of fruit tree can i get that will grown good in a south exposure backyard, limited space,and reflected heat. Is there a type of tree that will produce eadible fruit yet only grow to a limited height? Thanks From K_wood@uswest.net Fri Feb 23 14:08:53 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:08:53 -0700 (MST) From: K_wood@uswest.net K_wood@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My queen palm is not doing well, the branches/leaves are brown, what is required and do these plants require alot of water? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Feb 23 15:54:14 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 08:54:14 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care Manoj, I have the Purple Hong Kong Orchid Tree. It is truely one of my favorite trees. You can see pictures of it in bloom at my website, listed below. I believe you can see it in bloom, under my April tabs. I do not give it any *special* attention. Mine is in the lawn area, so it gets watered when the lawn and roses do. It gets fertilized when the lawn and roses are. The only fault I have with this tree, is after blooming it looks wretched for about a month, and makes a big mess. It looses all it's leaves and then you have the spent blooms and seed pods. But it's beauty for the remainder of the year makes it well worth it. It provides great somewhat filtered shade. It's fun watching the almost heart shaped leaves as they fold and close at night, then re-open during the day. The blossoms release an ever so light scent of lilac whe it is at it's heaviest bloom. Since the tree is in my yard, most the liter is picked up when I mow. The seed pods that fall into my rose beds do create some problems, as they reseed easily in the soil I have in my rose beds. I'm going to try a good thick layer of mulch in my rose beds this year and see if that helps to cut down on seed germination. Hope this helps! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, > I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems > etc and how well it grows in Arizona. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 16:13:36 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:13:36 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, removal of branch from below the graft The branch that is growing from the base of your citrus tree is no doubt coming from below the graft and from the root stock which is probably sour orange. Yes do remove it If the trunk is left unshaded then it should be painted with a white water base paint or white wash to protect it from sunburn, or it should be wrapped with a burlap material. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Feb 23 16:50:01 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:50:01 -0700 From: Alan Zelhart rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, removal of branch from below the graft Rod, Is there any way at all to get the suckers to STOP coming out from below. I have one that is continually shooting out suckers. Drives me nuts! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > The branch that is growing from the base of your citrus tree is no doubt > coming from below the graft and from the root stock which is probably sour > orange. Yes do remove it If the trunk is left unshaded then it should be > painted with a white water base paint or white wash to protect it from > sunburn, or it should be wrapped with a burlap material. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aeiouenv@aol.com Fri Feb 23 16:46:37 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:46:37 -0700 (MST) From: aeiouenv@aol.com aeiouenv@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My citrus trees (8 Yrs old) get thousands of blossoms and the fruit grows to about marble size and then dries up and all fall off. This past season I had only 8 grapefruit & about a dozen oranges. One tree I got nothing. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. rnie vowles From drtensile@cs.com Fri Feb 23 17:10:06 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:10:06 -0700 (MST) From: drtensile@cs.com drtensile@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Being new to the Valley 1998,and coming from the State of Washington I have finaly landscaped my backyard with plants and fruit trees I have desired. Now I want to plant an Avocado tree but am having a tough time gathering information. Last year I purchased a 2 year old plant, which did well until the month of August when I did not water it enough for the one hundred and ten degree weather. I would appreciate any information on this Avocado tree project. tks Don From steve.sheard@motorola.com Fri Feb 23 17:22:43 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:22:43 -0700 From: Stephen Sheard steve.sheard@motorola.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care I also have one in my lawn. My only comment is that the branches are soft so are susceptible to being bent around by the wind. The tree will need staking for a few years and the branches need trimming to keep the weight of the leaves from bending them too much. Otherwise it is fantastic. Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Alan Zelhart (rpcs30) Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:54 AM To: manoj.chandran@philips.com Cc: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care Manoj, I have the Purple Hong Kong Orchid Tree. It is truely one of my favorite trees. You can see pictures of it in bloom at my website, listed below. I believe you can see it in bloom, under my April tabs. I do not give it any *special* attention. Mine is in the lawn area, so it gets watered when the lawn and roses do. It gets fertilized when the lawn and roses are. The only fault I have with this tree, is after blooming it looks wretched for about a month, and makes a big mess. It looses all it's leaves and then you have the spent blooms and seed pods. But it's beauty for the remainder of the year makes it well worth it. It provides great somewhat filtered shade. It's fun watching the almost heart shaped leaves as they fold and close at night, then re-open during the day. The blossoms release an ever so light scent of lilac whe it is at it's heaviest bloom. Since the tree is in my yard, most the liter is picked up when I mow. The seed pods that fall into my rose beds do create some problems, as they reseed easily in the soil I have in my rose beds. I'm going to try a good thick layer of mulch in my rose beds this year and see if that helps to cut down on seed germination. Hope this helps! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, > I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems > etc and how well it grows in Arizona. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:54 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:54 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus crop light It is very common for citrus to have alternate good and bad seasons, however in your case be sure that you are fertilizing and watering properly. Too much or no fertilizer as well as inadequate irrigation can reduce your citrus crop. Check out this website for proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf U of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has an exellent bulletin on citrus care available for $1.00. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:56 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:56 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Queen palm The Queen Palm is not well adapted to out low desert climate, consequently it is difficult to keep looking healthy and alive. Queens should be fertilized three to four times a year with a fertilizer especially for palms, one that has a NPK ratio of 3-1-3. In adition they should be deep watered periodically. Check out these websites on palm care and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:57 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:57 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fruit tree for limited space Why not check out one of the dwarf varieties of either citrus or one of the stone fruits. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Feb 23 22:17:40 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:17:40 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi - I'm letting my ignorance hang out here but - what the heck? I'm among friends, right? Here goes -- Where are the seeds on penstemons? I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon Sensation Mix and thought that I'd harvest the seeds. I know that they're ready when they're black (can't remember where I read that). But where are they? When the flower drops off, is it that little black pouch-like thing that stays behind on the plant? (Obviously I didn't pay much attention to these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot. Most likely I wasn't paying attention.) Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi - I'm letting my = ignorance=20 hang out here but - what the heck?  I'm among friends, right?  = Here=20 goes --
 
Where are the seeds = on=20 penstemons?  I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon = Sensation Mix=20 and thought that I'd harvest the seeds.  I know that they're ready = when=20 they're black (can't remember where I read that).  But where are=20 they?  When the flower drops off, is it that little black = pouch-like thing=20 that stays behind on the plant?  (Obviously I didn't pay much = attention to=20 these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot.  Most likely I = wasn't=20 paying attention.)
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 03:14:11 2001 Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 20:14:11 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Sunflower seeds Plant sunflower seeds can be planted almost year round here in the valley. For more information please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3767.html in our archives where you will find Lucy Bradley's response to a similar question. Sue Bass Master Gardener jmlkeenan@aol.com wrote: > when is the best time to plant sun flower seeds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:37:49 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:37:49 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care We have an excellent publication on palm trees, varieties and care practices, that is online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm It is in the ornamentals section AZ 1021. If after perusing this you are still confused, write us back with some more specific questions, including your current watering and feeding practices. Please note that queen palms are not the best adapted palms to our area, not liking the hot dry winds and being susceptible to a few rots and nutrient deficiencies. But they do make a lovely tropical backdrop in a yard. Linda Guy Master Gardener K_wood@uswest.net wrote: > My queen palm is not doing well, the branches/leaves are brown, what is required and do these plants require alot of water? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:44:53 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:44:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Small Fruit Trees In addition to Rod's response, may I suggest that you look through our publications on suitable varieties for the low desert, where I assume you live? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm In the citrus section, AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties In the fruits section MC 90 Deciduous Fruits and Nuts for the low desert Unfortunately, the latter cannot be viewed online, but instructions for ordering it are at the top of this page. When you get a better idea of what you want [citrus will be evergreen and always providing shade; deciduous trees will provide sun in the winter] you can then pursue dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties. Another good place to check is the relevant chapters of the Master Gardener Manual, which is also online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy Master Gardener Kwood@uswest.net wrote: > What type of fruit tree would you reccomend I plant to allow for the following: > > South back yard, easy maintenance, required for a somewhat confined location, will have reflective heat from wall, will not grow to large. Somehwta of an oasis back yard. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:58:29 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:58:29 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Features in Xeriscape Derived from the Greek 'xeros' meaning dry, xeriscape a term for water-conserving practices in one's landscape. Conserving, to me, is not the same as forgoing water. When I originally took my MG training the intent appeared to be making use of plants that were native to one's area, whatever area that might be, or adapted plants. No where did I learn that water features were incompatible with these principles which include doing good planning/design, using efficient irrigation techniques, which means grouping plants with similar irrigation needs, applying mulches to limit evaporation and using plant material that have low water requirements. How many xeriscaped designs have a pool at the center of attention!? Indeed, in the creation of a yard that is designed to attract wildlife, a water feature such as a small pond would be a crucial element. As always, planning, design, efficient use of water would play a role in installing a water feature. Linda Guy Master Gardener mgood@txnla.org wrote: > I have heard that gardens with a water feature can qualify as Xeriscape if they do not contain fountains. Is this true? > Marilyn Good, Texas Nursery & Landscape Association > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:03:24 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:03:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care While I cannot specifically address the arborist's feeding injection, it is true, as you have no doubt read from our online publication on palms, http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf 15 years ago, the ones that I had in my yard did fine with the palm specific fertilizer that most nurseries carry, applied as per the package instructions. Our publication discusses this, too. As to the fungus, my understanding is that it needs to be treated topically and soil injections can't possibly address this issue. You already know that deep irrigation is the ticket! Thanks for the kind words about our postings. Linda Guy Master Gardener BOB RAMSEY wrote: > While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a > certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding > care of my queen palms. He says that they should have > frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid > fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here > and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep > root and microinject fertilization that they do for > $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide > that kills fungus that almost always is present in the > "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not > provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What > do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the > watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your > help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. > > __________________________________________________ > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:04:24 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:04:24 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Superthrive I don't think that you received a reply. Could you provide a listing of the product's ingredients and maybe someone can address your question from this angle. Linda Guy Master Gardener MTQR4@aol.com wrote: > Has anyone heard of a product called "Super thrive". I bought a small bottle of it at a nursery in Tucson. It is supposed to be a growth hormone for plants that reduces transplant shock and increases bloom, fruit and growth. Does anybody have any experience on using it and what results and procedures? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:17:43 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:17:43 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Screwbean Mesquite Trees --------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just pruned my screwbean yesterday, what a cute 'little' [hah!] tree! Although at some 24' or so, I already needed a ladder! February is the time to prune most mesquites; yours should begin to bloom in April/May. You can begin to prune up the trunk to create a tree canopy, but if this is the first season for the tree, I would limit the pruning for a year. Next February you can really start shaping it. This will give it maximum leaf surface for nutrient production and establishment during its first year in your yard. For now, focus on eliminating crossed branches, dead wood or obvious distortions in the shape. This tree will have a tendency to sucker alot if excessive pruning occurs. You will need to water deeply and regularly the first summer to establish the tree. But thereafter, most of us with native plant material will limit watering for several reasons. Water conservation, emulating the trees's natural habitat, and reducing need for summer pruning and resulting masses of material to discard in the dump. My native trees' water station is kept on 'off' since their second year in my yards, and I water deeply about two times in the summer to emulate monsoon moisture. This would be a reasonable strategy for your screwbean [mine is now about 18' though it was easilty in excess of 22' before yesterday morning] as it is a denizen of flood plains and valleys. As a result, I really only need to prune once a year, removing only straggles that threaten passing pedestrians in the summer months of growth. You might want to check out our publications list, specifically the desert-adapted plant section and ornamentals section for other information on care and pruning practices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Hope this is helpful to you. Linda Guy Master Gardener BJ wrote: > Arid_gardener; We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in > our back yard. We have no idea how to care for them. We want to > prune them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and > then fertilize them. Any information you can give us about taking > care of them would be helpful.Barbara & John --------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just pruned my screwbean yesterday, what a cute 'little'  [hah!] tree! Although at some 24' or so, I already needed a ladder! February is the time to prune most mesquites; yours should begin to bloom in April/May.

You can begin to prune up the trunk to create a tree canopy, but if this is the first season for the tree, I would limit the pruning for a year. Next February you can really start shaping it. This will give it maximum leaf surface for nutrient production and establishment during its first year in your yard. For now, focus on eliminating crossed branches, dead wood or obvious distortions in the shape.  This tree will have a tendency to sucker alot if excessive pruning occurs.

You will need to water deeply and regularly the first summer to establish the tree. But thereafter, most of us with native plant material will limit watering for several reasons. Water conservation, emulating the trees's natural habitat, and reducing need for summer pruning and resulting masses of material to discard in the dump. My native trees' water station is kept on 'off' since their second year in my yards, and I water deeply about two times in the summer to emulate monsoon moisture. This would be a reasonable strategy for your screwbean [mine is now about 18' though it was easilty in excess of 22' before yesterday morning] as it is a denizen of flood plains and valleys. As a result, I really only need to prune once a year, removing only straggles that threaten passing pedestrians in the summer months of growth.

You might want to check out our publications list, specifically the desert-adapted plant section and ornamentals section for other information on care and pruning practices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top

Hope this is helpful to you.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

BJ wrote:

Arid_gardener;    We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in our back yard.  We have no idea how to care for them.  We want to prune them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then fertilize them.  Any information you can give us about taking care of them would be helpful.Barbara & John
--------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:20:23 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:20:23 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Problems I gave up on gardenias years ago, as they required proportionately more care than my other, better adapted plants. I can't address your problem specifically, but I'm just wondering if they are feeling a bit too cold and too wet, in what has been a cooler winter than we've experienced in the last few years. Your supplementation with acidifying products is good, but I'm not sure if it's enough or too much. Do you have our publication on this plant, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener rap1020@home.com wrote: > I have gardenia plant on the north side of my house out of direct sun. I supplement the soil to maintain acidity. The newer leaves are slightly yellow with brown spots on them. The buds form but turn brown and drop off prior to bloom. What is wrong? What can be done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:26:13 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:26:13 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Jasmine Locally, we have varieties of jasmine and star jasmine [trachelospermum]. I believe the latter is better adapted to this locale. My star jasmine used to be on a south-facing wall and did well despite a general preference for some afternoon relief from summer sun. [There was some filtered shade from some palms overhead.] If this is what you have, your proposed placement sounds good. Linda Guy Master Gardener dsavini@hotmail.com wrote: > Where can I plant a pink jasmine vine. 5 Gallon would like to plant it against block fence facing east. Does it take full sun in the summer. Thank you so much for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:28:42 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:28:42 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrub Aster I haven't seen a response to your question yet, and I assume it's because no one was able to identify your plant from the description provided. Can you provide more details? Have you read the Sunset Western Garden Book's references to asters to better identify your plant? Linda Guy Master Gardener KriegeP@juno.com wrote: > Pruning Shrub Aster: > > I have a large bush about 5 feet high and 5 feet wide, which I was told was a shrub aster. It was completely covered with the most beautiful blue asters in fall. It is dormant now, and the leaves are brown. When should I prune it and how much should I prune? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:32:21 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:32:21 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Rot We have a publication on bacterial necrosis of saguaro [#8837] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top and it is also discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Timely treatment of the problem while it is small is essential. This problem is more likely to occur after a period of rainy weather, so it is a good idea to keep an eye on your saguaros when the rains come. Linda Guy Master Gardener schneider_4871@email.msn.com wrote: > Saguaro problem: > > The top of the saguaro appears to be dead. Black. It appears limited to only the growing tip. > > It has also had a spot of rot that I promptly cut out and seems to have healed. > > It had 3/4 flowers last summer. > > Is it in trouble? Anything I can do? > > What resources books/people can I turn to? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From K_wood@uswest.net Sat Feb 24 15:41:06 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:41:06 -0700 (MST) From: K_wood@uswest.net K_wood@uswest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a hot south backyard that gets sun all day long. What plants will work well to get a real tropical look. I like pigmy palms,which may work, but what about other plants that are tropical looking and can take the hot heat all day long From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:42:25 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:42:25 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Fairy Dusters [Calliandra californica] I have about 5 of these beauties and the ones that flourish are the ones in full sun. They are dense and luxurious looking, whereas the two on the north wall of the house that only get sun 7-8 months out of the year are like long droopy whips, spindly, blooming infrequently, hardly the same plant as the siblings out in full light. I'm going to move these two in the next month. After 4 years in the location, a more shade-tolerant plant would be a better choice. Pruning helps to keep the lanky look in check, but in my opinion, the shrubs will never truly thrive in these locations. Pruning is recommended for late spring [May], never in the heat of the summer. Severe pruning will ordinarily inhibit flowering; but if you are trying to reshape the plant, you may need to do a bit more. Again, I think location, not pruning, is the ticket. Linda Guy Master Gardener Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the > ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by > being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, > although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will > pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:48:17 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:48:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care [Resent to correct a speeding mind but sluggish fingers at the keys!] While I cannot specifically address the arborist's feeding injection, it is true, as you have no doubt read from our online publication on palms, http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf that queen palms can have micronutrient deficiencies. 15 years ago, the ones that I had in my yard did fine with the palm specific fertilizer that most nurseries carry, applied as per the package instructions. Our publication discusses this, too. As to the fungus, my understanding is that it needs to be treated topically and soil injections can't possibly address this issue. You already know that deep irrigation is the ticket! Thanks for the kind words about our postings. Linda Guy Master Gardener BOB RAMSEY wrote: > While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a > certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding > care of my queen palms. He says that they should have > frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid > fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here > and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep > root and microinject fertilization that they do for > $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide > that kills fungus that almost always is present in the > "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not > provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What > do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the > watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your > help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. > > __________________________________________________ > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:52:51 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:52:51 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Beans or peppers better suited to raised beds v level plots? As long as the soils are well prepared, as per previous missives on the subject, it shouldn't make a difference. What is warmer now, could be scalding later, no?] Our publications list has several items on soil prep; check them out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Jonathan Kandell wrote: > I have one plot of deep soil at ground level and another fifteen inch deep > raised bed. I was thinking the raised bed would be better suited to > peppers and tomatoes than to the beans, since it was warmer and shallower. > > Thoughts? Does it matter? > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:58:04 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:58:04 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacias >From your description, I'm assuming you have A. smallii or A. farnesiana, both of which are in my yards. I have the same care practices as you, that is, benign neglect since they are indeed so well adapted here. [They get watered about twice in the summer months, just like a monsoon rain or two.] I do notice that they are cold-deciduous, that is, they experience more leaf drop when the winters are colder. Some winters there has been no appreciable drop at all. Mine are just beginning to bloom, but are in south and west yards with no other shading. They can flower as early as late December in my yard, although Jan-Mar is the listed flowering season, so I'm thinking it's the winter chill. Are there others in your neighborhood to compare to? Linda Guy Master Gardener cenalmor@yahoo.com wrote: > I have a sweet acacia on my front yard. I don't know how old it is, but it's about 15 ft tall. Last year it bloomed in late January, and this year it hasn't yet, and there's not even a hint of blooming any time soon. Care has been the same in the last couple of years...that is, almost no care at all since it's so well adapted. Has anything different happened with the weather this year that may cause a late bloom? The tree doesn't look unhealthy, it's green. I did notice a lot of leaves dropping in December, but that's about it. > I'm just hoping the tree is ok, I don't want to miss out on it's beautiful bloom and scent this year. > Thanks, > Barbara > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:00:44 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:00:44 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Removing Desert Broom If they regrow, I'd suggest a topical application of a systemic that includes glyphosate, but you need a growing plant for this to work. If you don't want to dig, are the remaining stumps too small for a root grinder, which you can rent? Linda Guy Master Gardener Scayuga@aol.com wrote: > I have cut back several Desert Broom bushes and would like to completely eradicate then from my property. Is there anything, short of digging the rootballs up, that I can pour on these 1 ft. stumps to accomplish this ? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:01:53 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:01:53 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boric Acid on Citrus I have never heard of this practice, what is the intent and how did you propose to use it? The only use for boric acid that I am aware of is to address an ant problem. Linda Guy Master Gardener d4sberg@aol.com wrote: > This past year I read something about boric acid for citrus trees. Is there any value in using it? Or is regular feeding enough? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:12:31 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:12:31 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Infested by Weeds I've always dug them out of my lawn. Perhaps a good strategy for now would be to mow them to remove any flowers and seeds, before attempting the next step. A systemic including glyphosate [e.g. Roundup] would kill everything it touched, not just the weeds. [While I try to adhere to organic practices as much as I can, I will use this in areas where I'm attempting to eradicate bermuda, as in a yard conversion.] Here are some organic suppliers you can thumb through: http://www.groworganic.com/ http://www.biconet.com/lawn.html http://www.gardensalive.com/index.asp? The best weed control is a very healthy lawn. You might want to review the Master Gardener Manual's chapter on turf at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > Help! > This spring my lawn is totally taken over by weeds. I am an organic gardener...hence I don't use weed and feed, round-up etc. Anyone have any ideas other than hand digging up each weed? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:18:37 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:18:37 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Baja ruellia Barbara, My ruellia looked a bit worse after this winter's chill, exacerbated by some partial shade over one plant. The recommended pruning period is March, and my reference suggests that it can be cut to 6" [yes, that's inches] above ground, at that time. You didn't mention the size of the holes which could be helpful...could this be cutter bees? Don't forget that you are always welcome to bring samples to MCCE for the weekly diagnostic meeting. After reviewing your problem, someone will call you back with diagnosis and management suggestions. Linda Guy Master Gardener Barbara Cenalmor wrote: > I have a pretty large baja ruellia in my backyard, > which until this past winter was full and beautiful, > and always blooming. Then in the winter it got frost > bite, and a lot of the leaves and shoots turned dark > purple. I have held on the trimming because I was > afraid it would get cold again. Today I thought I'd > do it and I saw that most of the leaves are full of > holes. I looked everywhere for a bug and can't find > one,but there's definitely one somewhere because this > plant covers an area of about 8 sq feet and it's about > 3 ft tall and there's holes everywhere. Is there a > bug that's known for liking this plant? If so, what's > the best method to get rid of it? I'd rather not use > chemicals if possible. Is it safe to trim the plant a > bit so it doesn't look so bad, or should I assume it's > too weak to stand it? > Thanks, I looked all over the internet and all my > master gardener info, but didn't find anything that > could help me. > > Barbara > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:21:48 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:21:48 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Avocado My understanding is that avocados will rarely fruit in our climate without some exceptional care practices. My best advice is to contact our local chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers,which is on our garden clubs listing at http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Linda Guy Master Gardener drtensile@cs.com wrote: > Being new to the Valley 1998,and coming from the State of Washington I have finaly landscaped my backyard with plants and fruit trees I have desired. Now I want to plant an Avocado tree but am having a tough time gathering information. Last year I purchased a 2 year old plant, which did well until the month of August when I did not water it enough for the one hundred and ten degree weather. > I would appreciate any information on this Avocado tree project. > tks Don > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:28:10 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:28:10 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Rind I'm thinking it is the variety. The grapefruit I get from my sister-in-law's yard is consistently with thicker rind [to 1/2" sometimes] and seedier than some that I get from a neighbor. You don't mention it, but is this a change or just what the tree generally produces? Linda Guy Master Gardener Eldon W Hawkins wrote: > I have extremely thick rind on my grapefruit. Is there a particular > cause? > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:32:19 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:32:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Transplanting cat's claw --------------D88CD0F609B8E87567E22FAB Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know how doable this is, but since this is a semi-deciduous plant, I think I might have tried to transplant it last fall. Why not simply give it a try, sooner rather than later? You've nothing to lose. And you can easily replace it with a $4 1-gal plant. These vines grow so fast and love our heat so they are quick to establish and need little water after they have done so. Linda Guy Master Gardener Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > We have some cat's claw and are thinking of moving them--does anyone > know if these vines transplant well? Thanks,Pamela --------------D88CD0F609B8E87567E22FAB Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I don't know how doable this is, but since this is a semi-deciduous plant, I think I might have tried to transplant it last fall. Why not simply give it a try, sooner rather than later? You've nothing to lose. And you can easily replace it with a $4 1-gal plant. These vines grow so fast and love our heat so they are quick to establish and need little water after they have done so.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Pamela Tremain Koch wrote:

We have some cat's claw and are thinking  of moving them--does anyone know if these vines transplant well? Thanks,Pamela
--------------D88CD0F609B8E87567E22FAB-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:38:17 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:38:17 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomato Leaf Curl Curly top virus is usually indicated by yellowing leaves http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/curly-tp.htm Is it possible that your tomatoes experienced some frost damage? Linda Guy Master Gardener www.winesaver@home.com wrote: > Why are my tomatoes leaves curled and purple on the underside. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:46:41 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:46:41 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleias There are several species of this plant. B. davidii is often used as our low desert answer to lilac shrubs. Needs good drainage and enough water to sustain its growth. It's dark green leaves are semi-deciduous to evergreen, which means if its in a cooler area of your yard it will be more apt to drop some leaves in winter. It can take full sun or dappled shade. A nice background plant behind smaller materials, as it grows to 8' with a 4-6' spread. There is also B. marrubifolia or wooly butterfly bush. It has wooly white/grey leaves and orange marble-shaped flowers. Also a low water use plant, it has similar requirements for sun, preferring a bit of afternoon shade in summer. Also needs good drainage. It's size is smaller, 3-5' high and wide. Linda Guy Master Gardener scayuga@aol.com wrote: > I am interested in planting several Buddleia (Butterfly Bush). I reside in Fountain Hills, AZ.and am wondering if these have a particular preference for exposure, light conditions. Is there a preferable variety and when should these be planted ? How far from a block/stucco wall should they be planted ? Thanks for your help ? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:54:05 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:54:05 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost damaged aloe and agaves Don't ask me about seed germination. If I can't do it by direct sowing methods, I'm lost!!! I just can't seem to get the right combination of heat and light, even with seed trays. [For an upcoming birthday or Christmas, I'm going to ask my wonderful hubbie to build me some racks with grolights.] I've mentioned this before, but since I have volunteers all over my yards of many of the plants you are trying to germinate, I'd be inclined to sow the seeds in the area where you want the plant to grow. None of these are on my irrigation system and sprout and grow, nonetheless. Can't begin to tell you how many cassias, brittlebush and penstemons have just popped up this way. The recommended pruning time for aloes is May. But I just take a sharp bladed knife and remove offensive leaves whenever it is necessary. I don't believe I've ever waited until May to remove frost-damaged leaves. Unless of course there are many many of them. I wouldn't want to affect the bloom cycle that will be starting soon [Mar-Apr]. I don't have experience pruning agaves, which bloom roughly May-August and whose recommended pruning time is September, again post-bloom. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > First: > > Can anyone help Sherryl identify her fungus/mold? > > Thanks Linda, I've given up on my mold. Whatever it is, it clears up > when I let the soil dry out a bit and it doesn't seem to be bothering > any of my seedlings. I actually found a tiny mushroom next to a > just-emerged beargrass stalk. Go figure. > > I have an aloe vera and some "mystery" agaves outside that got frost > damaged and the outer leaves/pads are brown and shriveled. The insides > look fine and there are even new leaves (are they called "leaves"?) > coming up so I think they'll be fine, but they look pathetic. After it > warms a bit more, can I cut off the damaged outside leaves without > harming the plants? > > Also, I have some seed varieties that just don't seem to want to > germinate. P. Spectabilis, desert beardtongue which I had cold > stratified and a few others which weren't supposed to need stratifying. > It's been over 2 months on some of them with no sign of life yet. At > what point do I give up on them? I had 3 out of 3 dozen brittlebush > seeds finally germinate a week ago, but nothing new since, and a few of > my sotols and beargrass took a good 5-6 weeks to start, so I'm not sure > how patient I should be. (on the opposite spectrum, I think I had a 99% > germ. rate on soaptree yuccas and have so many I won't know where to put > them all. ha) > > I'm wondering if my trial and error on too dry/too damp just did some of > the seeds in? How the heck do some of these things actually make it in > the too dry, too wet, too cold outside world?? > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 16:55:39 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 09:55:39 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Citrus You will want to get a dwarf variety of your favorite fruit. Check out our publication on citrus varieties and care practices at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Some are more frost sensitive [like limes] than others. Linda Guy Master Gardener colecrk@aol.com wrote: > what is the best kind of citrus tree to grow in a container in a desert landscape yard with pool lots of sun > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 17:11:08 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 10:11:08 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds --------------740C9FFEBC32777ECEE900DA Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula, I KNOW they produce seeds because I have baby penstemons in my yard! I turned to Ms. Judy Mielke's excellent book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes, in order to answer your question. The tiny black seeds, which she describes as looking like coarsely ground pepper [I checked my envelopes and yup, that applies!] will appear if you leave the flower stalks on the plant after blooming to allow the seed to ripen. You can tell by shaking the blooms on a piece of paper. When they are ripe, cut the stalks to the basal leaves and again shake it over a container or paper to collect. Or just sprinkle it around on the ground. As you can tell by my last note to Sheryl, I don't do well germinating seeds....I'd prefer to sow them in place and move the little seedlings around the yard after they've reached a good size to do so. By the way, I'm sure I speak for the other MG volunteers who 'man' this service in expressing my gratitude for your inputs to querents. We've been a bit short handed of late and every little bit is gratefully appreciated. Actually, we wish more server members would jump in there so that we also had the benefit of hearing from others' experiences. Thanks again. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ursula Miller wrote: > Hi - I'm letting my ignorance hang out here but - what the heck? I'm > among friends, right? Here goes --Where are the seeds on penstemons? > I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon Sensation Mix and > thought that I'd harvest the seeds. I know that they're ready when > they're black (can't remember where I read that). But where are > they? When the flower drops off, is it that little black pouch-like > thing that stays behind on the plant? (Obviously I didn't pay much > attention to these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot. > Most likely I wasn't paying attention.)Ursula Miller --------------740C9FFEBC32777ECEE900DA Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,

I KNOW they produce seeds because I have baby penstemons in my yard! I turned to Ms. Judy Mielke's excellent book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes, in order to answer your question. The tiny black seeds, which she describes as looking like coarsely ground pepper [I checked my envelopes and yup, that applies!] will appear if you leave the flower stalks on the plant after blooming to allow the seed to ripen. You can tell by shaking the blooms on a piece of paper. When they are ripe, cut the stalks to the basal leaves and again shake it over a container or paper to collect. Or just sprinkle it around on the ground. As you can tell by my last note to Sheryl, I don't do well germinating seeds....I'd prefer to sow them in place and move the little seedlings around the yard after they've reached a good size to do so.

By the way, I'm sure I speak for the other MG volunteers who 'man' this service in expressing my gratitude for your inputs to querents. We've been a bit short handed of late and every little bit is gratefully appreciated. Actually, we wish more server members would jump in there so that we also had the benefit of hearing from others' experiences. Thanks again.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener
 
 

Ursula Miller wrote:

 Hi - I'm letting my ignorance hang out here but - what the heck?  I'm among friends, right?  Here goes --Where are the seeds on penstemons?  I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon Sensation Mix and thought that I'd harvest the seeds.  I know that they're ready when they're black (can't remember where I read that).  But where are they?  When the flower drops off, is it that little black pouch-like thing that stays behind on the plant?  (Obviously I didn't pay much attention to these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot.  Most likely I wasn't paying attention.)Ursula Miller 
--------------740C9FFEBC32777ECEE900DA-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 17:31:06 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 10:31:06 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Container Gardening Publication 8141 addresses vegetable gardening in containers. It can be ordered with instructions on this page in our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Sometimes the local libraries have our publications in the Reference section [#635] for you to see. Unfortunately, this particular one isn't online. Linda Guy Master Gardener DDRJJ23@HOME.COM wrote: > WE WOULD LIKE TO GROW OKRA IN POTS. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS WILL BE APPRECIATED, THIS WILL BE OUR FIRST ATTEMPT. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From elewis@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sat Feb 24 17:39:28 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 10:39:28 -0700 (MST) From: Betsy elewis@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds one other tip for penstemon seeds, try soaking them in water for 24 hours before planting, they need to be scarified in this way because of their hard seed coats! From rdschwartz@aol.com Sat Feb 24 18:40:24 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 11:40:24 -0700 (MST) From: rdschwartz@aol.com rdschwartz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Using a #16 head on drip system, how often and how long should we water bouganvilla (in each season)? The bouganvilla is 7 years old and has not grown well at all. Thanks. From heffel@goodnet.com Sat Feb 24 21:23:31 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 14:23:31 -0700 (MST) From: heffel@goodnet.com heffel@goodnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in an old valencia orange grove. The houses are 25 years old, so the trees are even older. Last summer several trees on the west side of our lot I believe were badly sunburned. The bark is falling off in chunks and major branches are dead. What can we do to save these trees? I remember reading about wrapping the trunks with cardboard or something. These trees are vital to shading the west side of our house, so we desparately need to restore them, if possible. Thank you for any help. From heffel@goodnet.com Sat Feb 24 21:24:01 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 14:24:01 -0700 (MST) From: heffel@goodnet.com heffel@goodnet.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We live in an old valencia orange grove. The houses are 25 years old, so the trees are even older. Last summer several trees on the west side of our lot I believe were badly sunburned. The bark is falling off in chunks and major branches are dead. What can we do to save these trees? I remember reading about wrapping the trunks with cardboard or something. These trees are vital to shading the west side of our house, so we desparately need to restore them, if possible. Thank you for any help. From amlewis@internetland.net Sat Feb 24 21:37:37 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 15:37:37 -0600 From: Autry & Marcile amlewis@internetland.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] please send me literature Please send me any literature you might have concerning growing raspberries, including grafting. thank you very much From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 24 22:00:13 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 17:00:13 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bougainvillea, watering Bougainvillea, once established requires very little water. I'm growing six of them and the drippers have been removed several years ago. They put on a magnificent display of color nearly year round and one is about 20 feet high. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From glotoni@aol.com Sat Feb 24 22:27:50 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 15:27:50 -0700 (MST) From: glotoni@aol.com glotoni@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to this area. I have a Mesquite tree in my front yard, and it is either shedding or dyeing. Every day I go out there there is yellow leaves on the ground. What do I need to do to help, this poor thing. Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 24 23:19:56 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 18:19:56 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Sun burned citrus Sorry but there is not much that one can do to a sun burned tree except to either paint it with a water based paint or wrap it with burlap or other cover to prevent further sun burn. Just be sure that you keep it as healthy as possible by adequate deep watering and fertilization. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 24 23:28:57 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 18:28:57 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mesquite losing its leaves You can stop worrying, the Mesquite is cold deciduous and it is normal for them to drop their leaves this time of year. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Sat Feb 24 23:32:16 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:32:16 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Leaves Falling This is normal. In a few weeks you'll see new growth and the tree will get full and green again. I find that about 2/3 of the little leaves fall off each winter. I use a very, very small rake ---- :-) Ursula Miller Mesquite Tree Owner But Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of glotoni@aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 3:28 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am new to this area. I have a Mesquite tree in my front yard, and it is either shedding or dyeing. Every day I go out there there is yellow leaves on the ground. What do I need to do to help, this poor thing. Thank you _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sdyoder@attglobal.net Sun Feb 25 00:19:56 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 17:19:56 -0700 From: sdyoder@attglobal.net sdyoder@attglobal.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vol 1, #49 I am trying this for the first time. Hope it works. Many penstemon seeds prefer to "age" an extra year. I don't know the exact reason, but had trouble with P. eatoni but not P. parryi and that wonderful Mary Irish told me to hold the seeds until the second year before planting. It worked. Sylvia Yoder From umiller@azdps.com Sat Feb 24 23:51:09 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:51:09 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Problems I ran into the same problem last year. My book tells me that the bud drop is from stress caused by sudden temperature or humidity changes or if the soil is too dry or soggy. As Linda says, these plants need constant care and have problems with things over which we have no control (like the temperature and humidity variations). So even with pampering, it's kind of a crap shoot sometimes. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:20 AM To: rap1020@home.com Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Problems I gave up on gardenias years ago, as they required proportionately more care than my other, better adapted plants. I can't address your problem specifically, but I'm just wondering if they are feeling a bit too cold and too wet, in what has been a cooler winter than we've experienced in the last few years. Your supplementation with acidifying products is good, but I'm not sure if it's enough or too much. Do you have our publication on this plant, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener rap1020@home.com wrote: > I have gardenia plant on the north side of my house out of direct sun. I supplement the soil to maintain acidity. The newer leaves are slightly yellow with brown spots on them. The buds form but turn brown and drop off prior to bloom. What is wrong? What can be done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sat Feb 24 23:51:22 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:51:22 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Hot Sun Mediterranean Fan Palms do well and look good. Bougainvilleas love the sun and don't need much water. My hibiscus plants to very well in the sun, too, though they like quite a bit of water but they look very tropical. Arizona Yellow Bells is very green with nice yellow or orange flowers and Cape Honeysuckle could be considered "tropical" I suppose being so green with orange flowers. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of K_wood@uswest.net Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2001 8:41 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a hot south backyard that gets sun all day long. What plants will work well to get a real tropical look. I like pigmy palms,which may work, but what about other plants that are tropical looking and can take the hot heat all day long _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From tmmills@aol.com Sun Feb 25 01:06:03 2001 Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 18:06:03 -0700 (MST) From: tmmills@aol.com tmmills@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a three year old tangelo tree that blooms profusely and the small fruit appears but does not set. Last year I had two oranges that came to maturity and one of them was affected by a borer of some kind. Is this condition caused by insufficient pollination? There are a few other citrus in the area, but none that are close. Could I help the polination by cutting a blooming branch off of another tree and shaking it among the blooms of my tree? As you can tell I am totally ignorant about citrus trees. Thanks for any reply I may receive in this inquiry. T. Mills From Bluisaz@aol.com Sun Feb 25 16:17:04 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 09:17:04 -0700 (MST) From: Bluisaz@aol.com Bluisaz@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I live in an adult community where we have alot of natural wild life ie; fox, cottontails, quail and a chickmunk. Unable to place a fence around our yard, what can we do about the "Rabbit's"? Are there any plants that the rabbit's would not eat? chicken wire cages are not our cup of tea.... Our other quiery is about a Hibiscus tree that we planted in to a container last summer.. it has not produced any new blooms and had developed small yellow leaves...I gave it ironite and it had improved somewhat, but it has not grown.... I was then told that maybe it was not getting enough sun, so I took it out of the 5 gallon container and planted it in the yard that faces west. When I took the Hibiscus out of the container to plant it, I noticed that the root system was very thin and had not grown very much since last summer. Is there any hope? What can we to do to save this tree? I hope that I have given you enough information. I will thank you in advance for you response.. From weimeraa@aol.com Sun Feb 25 17:17:16 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:17:16 -0700 (MST) From: weimeraa@aol.com weimeraa@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are trying to find a tangor tree. All the nurseries we have checked have tangelos, but no tangor. Would you have any idea where we might find one? We are located in Sun City, Arizona, but we have transportation to go wherever we can find one. Thank you for any consideration you are able to give to this matter. Almeda Weimer From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 25 17:44:25 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 10:44:25 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbits Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in 'rabbits'. You'll see other discussions on this problem with some listings of rabbit-resistant plants. You can also type in "hibiscus" and find previous chats about these plants there. Hope this helps. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Bluisaz@aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2001 9:17 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page My husband and I live in an adult community where we have alot of natural wild life ie; fox, cottontails, quail and a chickmunk. Unable to place a fence around our yard, what can we do about the "Rabbit's"? Are there any plants that the rabbit's would not eat? chicken wire cages are not our cup of tea.... Our other quiery is about a Hibiscus tree that we planted in to a container last summer.. it has not produced any new blooms and had developed small yellow leaves...I gave it ironite and it had improved somewhat, but it has not grown.... I was then told that maybe it was not getting enough sun, so I took it out of the 5 gallon container and planted it in the yard that faces west. When I took the Hibiscus out of the container to plant it, I noticed that the root system was very thin and had not grown very much since last summer. Is there any hope? What can we to do to save this tree? I hope that I have given you enough information. I will thank you in advance for you response.. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Simon554@aol.com Sun Feb 25 18:59:23 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 13:59:23 EST From: Simon554@aol.com Simon554@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Dear Arid gardener, Could you tell me where I could find a source for angelonia angustifolia? Thankyou, Adam From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 25 19:16:56 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:16:56 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Young citrus not setting fruit Most citrus trees do not do not produce much fruit until they are four to five years old. Hopefully you will get more fruit this year. Be sure to irrigate and fertilize adequately. An excellent bulletin on citrus care is available from U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix, 85040 for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Feb 25 21:53:19 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:53:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raspberries If you live in the low desert of the Phoenix metropolitan area, raspberries are not adapted to this area. However, Brazo and Rosborough blackberries can be grown here. For more information, you can order our publication MC 90 on Deciduous Fruits and Nuts at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Autry & Marcile wrote: > Please send me any literature you might have concerning growing > raspberries, including grafting. thank you very much > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Feb 25 21:57:58 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 14:57:58 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Xeriscaping We are not permitted to recommend specific landscapers as we are affiliated with the local land-grant college, U of A. Permit me to suggest that you acquire all of the pamphlets/booklets that have been produced by the AMWUA which you can find through our link to resources for installing new landscape http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-land.htm They have a brand new Xeriscape booklet that is just beautiful and will be a real help to you. Many are available at the nurseries but the UMWUA website will tell you how to secure them. And your municipal water service should also make these available to you. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com wrote: > I am relocating to Phoenix from CT and am building a new home in Anthem, AZ. I will be responsible for landscaping both my front and back yards and am very unfamiliar with desert landscapes. Could you recommend a landscaper in the area who utilize xerioscape landscaping techniques, gives good advice and has a good reputation? Any help you could provide would be appreciated. I especially would like to avoid costly mistakes. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Feb 25 22:05:19 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 15:05:19 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) AZ 1001, Low Desert Citrus Varieties, does not list this variety as recommended for our area. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Greenfield Nursery in the east valley has been a good resource in the past. Why don't you contact them for ideas..... http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener weimeraa@aol.com wrote: > We are trying to find a tangor tree. All the nurseries we have checked have tangelos, but no tangor. > Would you have any idea where we might find one? We are located in Sun City, Arizona, but we have transportation to go wherever we can find one. > Thank you for any consideration you are able to give to this matter. > Almeda Weimer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From GrdrnrAZ@aol.com Sun Feb 25 22:48:39 2001 Date: Sun, 25 Feb 2001 15:48:39 -0700 (MST) From: GrdrnrAZ@aol.com GrdrnrAZ@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a two year old grapefruit tree on my property in Tucson. My question is, I have seen fruit tree fertilizer spikes at the hardware store- can those be used in addition to regular fertilizer to add slow release nutrients? Also, When should a layer of ground bark mulch be added to the tree mentioned above? From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Feb 26 19:50:01 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:50:01 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mealy cup sage & other topics Hi all, I have 6 large containers that I planted mealy-cup salvias in last summer. I thought they weren't very cold hardy but mine now have lots of new growth at the bottoms. Should I cut off the spindly tops? Since they did so well, I was thinking of transplanting them into my regular flower bed, but the soil is much sandier (I used regular potting soil in the containers) and they won't get as much water since the bed is almost all native/very xerics. Would they still do ok? Thanks for the info on the buddleia, Linda! I just happened to get one over the weekend and was wondering about its growth habit/care. Sounds like I picked a perfect spot for it. Does anyone know its origins? Is it a mediterranean native? Just curious. re: Seeds. I'm starting to agree with Linda that direct sewing is the way to go with natives. I did collect a couple dozen 2-4" brittlebush volunteers last week that so far seem to be handling transplanting just fine. One thing I've seeded in flats that have germinated prolifically are New Mexico Sunflower (Maxmillian's Daisy). Anyone have any experience with them here in the low desert they'd like to share? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 26 19:40:03 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:40:03 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangor --------------96C2ABCC521A2938D5FAE0B5 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit FYI: Dr. Glenn weighs in on the subject of Tangor mandarins..... "Hi Linda: 'Temple' tangor grows wonderfully down here in Yuma; I believe the fact that it is not in "Low Desert Citrus Varieties" is just an oversight. Sometimes this variety is also known as 'Royal' mandarin. 'Ellendale' or 'Ortanique' tangor would also grow well here, but I doubt that they are available for the homeowner." Sincerely, GCWGlenn C. Wright, Ph.D.Associate Research Scientist and Citrus SpecialistUniversity of ArizonaYuma Mesa Agriculture Center At 03:05 PM 02/25/2001 -0700, you wrote: > AZ 1001, Low Desert Citrus Varieties, does not list this variety as > recommended for our area. > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm > > Greenfield Nursery in the east valley has been a good resource in the > past. Why don't you contact them for ideas..... > http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm > > Good luck! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener --------------96C2ABCC521A2938D5FAE0B5 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit FYI: Dr. Glenn weighs in on the subject of Tangor mandarins.....

"Hi Linda:

'Temple' tangor grows wonderfully down here in Yuma; I believe the fact that it is not in "Low Desert Citrus Varieties" is just an oversight.  Sometimes this variety is also known as 'Royal' mandarin.  'Ellendale' or 'Ortanique' tangor would also grow well here, but I doubt that they are available for the homeowner."

Sincerely,

GCWGlenn C. Wright, Ph.D.Associate Research Scientist and Citrus SpecialistUniversity of ArizonaYuma Mesa Agriculture Center
 

At 03:05 PM 02/25/2001 -0700, you wrote:

AZ 1001, Low Desert Citrus Varieties, does not list this variety as recommended for our area.
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm

Greenfield Nursery in the east valley has been a good resource in the past. Why don't you contact them for ideas.....
http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm

Good luck!

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

--------------96C2ABCC521A2938D5FAE0B5-- From tomrinaz@earthlink.net Mon Feb 26 19:57:50 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net tomrinaz@earthlink.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees? From grapeseek@grapeseek.com Mon Feb 26 21:53:48 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:53:48 -0600 From: grapeseek@grapeseek.com grapeseek@grapeseek.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] GrapeSeek Has Listed Your Site Thank-you for adding your site to Grapeseek! (Either you added it or we liked it enough to add it ourselves.) Why is this important to you? Quite simply, Grapeseek.com is rapidly becoming the largest internet portal for grape growers, winemakers and wine enthusiasts in the world and we can send a considerable amount of traffic (and sales) to your site with a proper listing. We have the largest online email groups of grape growers in the world and we're always expanding our features and services. We also have a variety of advertising options if you'd like us to feature your site for more exposure of your site to our audience. Please visit http://www.grapeseek.com to ensure your listing is correct. What we spidered from your site is listed below: (If you don't like what you see below, please change the meta tags of your own site!......or ask us for more info about how to do it...we want to help you!) ------------------------------------------------------------ -- For Your Records, your listing is as follows: -- ------------------------------------------------------------ Site ID : 983224429 Site Name : ag pruning grapes and bird of paradise Site Addr : http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-January/002934.html Category : Grape Growing:Pruning Sub Category: Description : [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise Search Terms: Linda,A,Guy, ----------------------------------------------------------- Thank you, again for your GRAPE site! Michel White President, Grapeseek, Inc. From jeanejack@inficad.com Mon Feb 26 23:34:18 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:34:18 -0700 (MST) From: jeanejack@inficad.com jeanejack@inficad.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We did not plant rye grass this winter. However, we have some kind of darker green and faster growing grass coming up in patches all over. A nursery worker said it is crab grass but it doesn't look like other kinds we see occasionally. The weed killer he recommended isn't helping. Could it be something else and what can we do? From casalzer1@cs.com Tue Feb 27 00:45:32 2001 Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:45:32 -0700 (MST) From: casalzer1@cs.com casalzer1@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page We are moving to the northwest valley in late August from So. California, in particular near the beach. I have several varities of ferns such as birdsnest, rabbits foot, etc. and would like to know if they will survive the heat. I am looking to put in a drip system in an arbor to house these plants. Any suggestions would be gladly appreciated. From edgarmeya1@hotmail.com Wed Feb 28 01:02:42 2001 Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 18:02:42 -0700 (MST) From: edgarmeya1@hotmail.com edgarmeya1@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the best time to prune a sweet accacia and shoestring? We live in Peoria, Az. Thank you, 2/27/01 From MRRAUSCHER@aol.com Wed Feb 28 06:09:03 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:09:03 EST From: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com MRRAUSCHER@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula, My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East Valley Tribune. John Chapman forwarded your question to me. I have worked with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to respond to, hope that's OK with you. The response will be in this Saturday's Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps! Thanks! Michelle --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ursula,
My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East
Valley Tribune.  John Chapman forwarded your question to me.  I have worked
with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the
Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to
respond to, hope that's OK with you.  The response will be in this Saturday's
Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps!

Thanks!
Michelle


--part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary-- From bunyldy@worldnet.att.net Wed Feb 28 06:12:46 2001 Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:12:46 -0700 (MST) From: bunyldy@worldnet.att.net bunyldy@worldnet.att.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What do I do with narcissus(paperwhites)? Several yrs. ago, I had several & after they bloomed, I planted them in outdoor garden. Each yr. they have beautiful long green leaves but no flowers. This yr. I also have some in pots. Thank you for responding. From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Wed Feb 28 06:37:48 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:37:48 EST From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com PERFLOWERS@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds Michelle, I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this page also? Val From umiller@azdps.com Wed Feb 28 12:47:01 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 05:47:01 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds OK. Here are the responses I received: 1. I KNOW they produce seeds because I have baby penstemons in my yard! I turned to Ms. Judy Mielke's excellent book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes, in order to answer your question. The tiny black seeds, which she describes as looking like coarsely ground pepper [I checked my envelopes and yup, that applies!] will appear if you leave the flower stalks on the plant after blooming to allow the seed to ripen. You can tell by shaking the blooms on a piece of paper. When they are ripe, cut the stalks to the basal leaves and again shake it over a container or paper to collect. Or just sprinkle it around on the ground. As you can tell by my last note to Sheryl, I don't do well germinating seeds....I'd prefer to sow them in place and move the little seedlings around the yard after they've reached a good size to do so. 2. one other tip for penstemon seeds, try soaking them in water for 24 hours before planting, they need to be scarified in this way because of their hard seed coats! 3. Many penstemon seeds prefer to "age" an extra year. I don't know the exact reason, but had trouble with P. eatoni but not P. parryi and that wonderful Mary Irish told me to hold the seeds until the second year before planting. It worked. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of PERFLOWERS@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:38 PM To: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com; Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds Michelle, I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this page also? Val _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Marvbevt@aol.com Wed Feb 28 15:20:13 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:20:13 -0700 (MST) From: Marvbevt@aol.com Marvbevt@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page From Marvbevy@aol.com Wed Feb 28 15:29:25 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:29:25 -0700 (MST) From: Marvbevy@aol.com Marvbevy@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How much water does citrus trees need From slikmouth@aol.com Wed Feb 28 16:31:10 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:31:10 -0700 (MST) From: slikmouth@aol.com slikmouth@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a "desert" landcsape yard with prickly pear cactus that has a white, fungus like growth on many of the leaves. My query is how to eliminate this growth without harming the cacti? Evidently from the coloration, there is 2 different types of cacti & I am interested in organic or non-organic ways of removing the supposed fungal growth. Many thanks to anyone able to help. Joe Current Chandler, Az., 85224 From croft8@juno.com Wed Feb 28 18:10:49 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:10:49 -0700 (MST) From: croft8@juno.com croft8@juno.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? From manoj.chandran@philips.com Wed Feb 28 18:42:59 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:42:59 -0600 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com manoj.chandran@philips.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine I recently had Carolina Jasmine planted in my backyard. I selected this plant after going to the local nursery (Treeland Nursery in Mesa) and talking to the people over there. MYy landscaper also recommended this plant. The flowers are beautiful, but on surfing the net last night I came to know this plant is EXTREMELY toxic and can even be fatal if the flower is consumed. Any one has experience with this plant? If it is so toxic, I am amazed why the nursery did not warn me about it. Thanks. Manoj Chandran From GanoPat@msn.com Wed Feb 28 18:49:48 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:49:48 -0700 (MST) From: GanoPat@msn.com GanoPat@msn.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page How quickly does a Palo Brea tree grow. Should they be fertilized, how often water are they to be watered? I want to plant two of them in my front yard, and they will be very small trees when I plant them. Thank you. Patty From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 28 23:57:03 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:57:03 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm hardly an expert, but most opuntia sp. (prickly pear, cholla, etc) are pretty indestructable. I'd just remove the infected pads. If the area affected is too low on the plant, and you want to "save" it, I'd take some of the healthy, unaffected pads and just replant them. (Remove the pads, let them dry at least 3-5 days so they can callous up, then stick them in the ground). From my understanding, after replanting the pads (just stick them in the ground) wait a week or so and water lightly. Water lightly until established. Long salad tongs or barbecue tongs come in really handy for prickly pear picking (fruit and pads). -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Feb 28 23:59:20 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:59:20 -0700 From: Jonathan Kandell jkandell@email.arizona.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] tepary beans as a cover mulch? Has anyone tried using tepary bean plants (which sprawl all over the ground) as a mulch, to conserve water for other crops like tomatoes etc...? jk From pauljnestor@yahoo.com Thu Feb 1 00:03:30 2001 From: pauljnestor@yahoo.com (pauljnestor@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 17:03:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102010003.RAA28365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Phoenix and my yard is aprox 20' by 45'. I am trying to decide on what trees to put in our yard. We would like a couple of cirus tees and maybe a eucalyptus. How can I find out if you can combine some trees with others? Also how many tree can I fit into our yard considering the size? Thank you for you time and advise. Paul From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 00:36:43 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:36:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Climbing Roses, pruning Message-ID: <34.10483e53.27aa099b@aol.com> If you live in the low desert now is the time to prune your roses. Climbers are pruned differently than are hybrid teas, remove the weakest and the oldest canes, leaving 5 to 6 canes. Remove dead and diseased canes. Do not prune the ends of the canes unles it is necessary to keep within bounds. Cut back to two or three bud eyes on the laterals. Tie or train the canes in an arching or horizontal position so that the laterals will grow vertically for the best display of flowers. The most hardy orchid tree can handle temps only down to 20 degrees and would not be suitable for the Payson climate. If your climbing rose is in Payson I would suggest that you contact a rosarian or a nursery there for the best time of year to prune roses. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 00:36:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 19:36:44 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Gophers Message-ID: <55.1095fd4b.27aa099c@aol.com> Gophers can be eliminated by trapping, or by using poisoned bait, however I've had the best luck in getting rid of them by inserting a lighted highway flare into their tunnel and covering it with dirt. You can find their tunnel by following the exit hole down to the tunnel. The gopher must be in the under ground tunnel in order for any elimination method to work. When gophers are a problem I check every morning for fresh dirt beside the exit hole and when I find that I immediately start digging . Once the gopher fanily is eliminated I don't se them again for several months or longer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From balthasar@qwest.net Thu Feb 1 03:59:56 2001 From: balthasar@qwest.net (balthasar@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 20:59:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102010359.UAA09758@Ag.Arizona.Edu> A tree feeding company told me that nurseries add Mycorrhhizal Fungi to the soil when planting citrus trees. That this fungi live in and around the roots of 95% of the earths plant species serving as a secondary root system extending themselves far out into the soil. That my citrus trees never had this fungi(25yrs. old) and for a price would add this to the root systems. Am I getting a fairy tale or is there credence to his statement that,"Trees and plants with thriving Mycorrhizal roots systems are better able to survive and thrive in stressful man made environments."? Should I get his treatment? Anoooother quote, "with one treatment we can turn your tree into super roots" From lgk007@aol.com Thu Feb 1 05:55:04 2001 From: lgk007@aol.com (lgk007@aol.com) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 2001 22:55:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102010555.WAA27083@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be bringing my two horses home to our property. I am concerned about the waste that comes along with horses. I want to start out right and do as much composting as I can and not have it all hauled away. Is there someone that can help me with building a composting facility and some information on how much and when I can add to the pile of waste. I thank you for your time. Lin From kelly.ryan1@home.com Thu Feb 1 18:41:03 2001 From: kelly.ryan1@home.com (kelly.ryan1@home.com) Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 11:41:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102011841.LAA16572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What should I do about soil gnats? I had them in just one potted plant in my home which was exposed to partial diffused sunlight, now they have expanded into most of my potted plants. What should I do to discourage their survival? Will my plants, which are now grasping to life, survive? Thank you very much. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 1 23:42:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Feb 2001 18:42:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mycorrhizae Message-ID: It is fairly well known in horticulture that the mycorrhizae fungi are beneficial to most plant growth, and mycorrhizae are found in nearly all soils. This fungi enables plants to more readily take up phosporus, but is not much of a factor involving nitrogen, and the main ingredient that citrus require is nitrogen. So, how much benefit would you be receiving from a mycorrhizae innoculation ? I would also question how someone would know that your citrus does not have this this fungi without extensive testing. There is lots of citrus grown in Maricopa county very sucessfully when watered and fertilized properly. I found lots of info about mycorrhizae by searching on line for MYCORRHIZAE. The following website may be helpful. http://www.mycorrhiza.org/benefits.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From ram6260@yahoo.com Fri Feb 2 15:49:13 2001 From: ram6260@yahoo.com (BOB RAMSEY) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 07:49:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering and feeding of queen palms Message-ID: <20010202154913.29163.qmail@web1403.mail.yahoo.com> While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding care of my queen palms. He says that they should have frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep root and microinject fertilization that they do for $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide that kills fungus that almost always is present in the "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. __________________________________________________ Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From Rand2620@uswest.net Fri Feb 2 19:03:31 2001 From: Rand2620@uswest.net (Rand2620@uswest.net) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:03:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102021903.MAA05106@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Gilbert and I have heard that due to the extreme heat in the valley during the summer that it may be best to prune fruit tree (plums and peaches) in June rather than the winter months as this helps the plant reduce the amount of engergy it must put into leaf maintance during the hot summer. Is this true? Would the same concept work for roses - my roses look real good now and always are a bit peaked looking during the summer - would it be wise to do the major pruning during early summer rather than now. From Rand2620@uswest.net Fri Feb 2 19:04:35 2001 From: Rand2620@uswest.net (Rand2620@uswest.net) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 12:04:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102021904.MAA05311@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Gilbert and I have heard that due to the extreme heat in the valley during the summer that it may be best to prune fruit tree (plums and peaches) in June rather than the winter months as this helps the plant reduce the amount of energy it must put into leaf maintance during the hot summer. Is this true? Would the same concept work for roses - my roses look real good now and always are a bit stressed during the summer - would it be wise to do the major pruning during early summer rather than now. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 2 22:10:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:10:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Queen Palms, watering and feeding Message-ID: Bob, I'll refer you to the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension bulletin AZ1021, ARIZONA LANDSCAPE PALMS which states that deep watering of landscape palms in the desert is crucial. This bulletin is available on line at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf This bulletin also addresses the treatment of the fungus which causes Bud Rot in palms. The queen palm is difficult to keep looking healthy in our low desert soils and does require multiple applications of a fertilizer designed specially for palms, one that has an NPK ratio of 3-1-3 plus magnesium, manganese, iron, sulfur, zinc, copper and boron. Deep root fertilization can be helpful especially if the palm is showing a nutrient dificiency. If a severe nutrient dificiency does exist it would be best if a certified arborist were to treat the tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 2 22:10:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:10:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: homeowner tree clinic Message-ID: <9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39@aol.com> --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 02/02/2001 10:07:57 AM US Mountain Standard Time, crymer@ag.arizona.edu writes: << >>> 2001 Urban Homeowners Tree Care Clinic The Arboretum at ASU and the Arizona Community Tree Council are presenting the third Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic on Saturday, February 10, 2001. This clinic will provide the homeowner with information and resources that will encourage proper selection and appropriate maintenance of trees in the home landscape. There will be vendors participating to offer additional information, books, and tools. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self-guided tours are also encouraged. A wonderful selection of speakers will be present to discuss a range of tree care subjects. This year's speakers are Christy Ten Eyck from Ten Eyck Landscape Architects, Terry Mikel, the commercial horticultural agent from the U of A Maricopa County Extension office, Dennis Lynch, the manager from Arbor Care, Roger Blakeley, the Parks Superintendent from the City of Yuma, and Dr. Chris Martin from ASU Plant Biology. It will be a very informative event. Mark your calendar and plan on attending. Where: ASU Memorial Union, Tempe, Arizona When: Saturday, February 10, 2001 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost: Free to the public Pre-registration if required and must be received by February 8, 2001. For more information contact the Arboretum at ASU, (480) 965-8467. Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ >> --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yd02.mx.aol.com (rly-yd02.mail.aol.com [172.18.150.2]) by air-yd04.mail.aol.com (v77.31) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Feb 2001 12:07:57 -0500 Received: from phobos.email.Arizona.EDU (phobos-adm.email.arizona.edu [128.196.133.165]) by rly-yd02.mx.aol.com (v77.27) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Feb 2001 12:07:40 -0500 Received: from acoma.mac-coopext.arizona.edu (204.27.250.49) by phobos.email.Arizona.EDU (5.1.056) id 3A6F7A1E000B4FF2 for RodMcQ6@aol.com; Fri, 2 Feb 2001 10:07:37 -0700 Message-Id: <4.2.0.58.20010202101649.00ab3e60@ag.arizona.edu> X-Sender: crymer@ag.arizona.edu X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.2.0.58 X-Priority: 1 (Highest) Date: Fri, 02 Feb 2001 10:24:17 -0700 To: RodMcQ6@aol.com From: Cathy Rymer Subject: homeowner tree clinic Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Hi Rod, Would you post this to the arid_gardener list serve? I don't subscribe, but I thought most of the readers would be interested in the clinic. Thanks! Cathy >>> 2001 Urban Homeowners Tree Care Clinic The Arboretum at ASU and the Arizona Community Tree Council are presenting the third Urban Homeowner Tree Care Clinic on Saturday, February 10, 2001. This clinic will provide the homeowner with information and resources that will encourage proper selection and appropriate maintenance of trees in the home landscape. There will be vendors participating to offer additional information, books, and tools. Tours of the ASU campus Arboretum will be given during the day. Self-guided tours are also encouraged. A wonderful selection of speakers will be present to discuss a range of tree care subjects. This year's speakers are Christy Ten Eyck from Ten Eyck Landscape Architects, Terry Mikel, the commercial horticultural agent from the U of A Maricopa County Extension office, Dennis Lynch, the manager from Arbor Care, Roger Blakeley, the Parks Superintendent from the City of Yuma, and Dr. Chris Martin from ASU Plant Biology. It will be a very informative event. Mark your calendar and plan on attending. Where: ASU Memorial Union, Tempe, Arizona When: Saturday, February 10, 2001 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost: Free to the public Pre-registration if required and must be received by February 8, 2001. For more information contact the Arboretum at ASU, (480) 965-8467. Catherine Rymer Instructional Specialist, Urban Horticulture University of Arizona Maricopa County Cooperative Extension 4341 E. Broadway Phoenix, AZ 85040 http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ --part1_9a.f8ff9d9.27ac8a39_boundary-- From rafikikita@att.net Sat Feb 3 00:32:12 2001 From: rafikikita@att.net (rafikikita@att.net) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 17:32:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102030032.RAA17759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 3 01:28:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 2001 20:28:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning fruit trees and roses, time of year. Message-ID: <4a.10f70054.27acb8da@aol.com> If you haven't pruned your stone fruit trees and roses yet it is time to do so. U. of A Cooperative Extension fact sheet MC-66 states that the stone fruit trees should be pruned in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. As for roses the target time to prune if you live in the low desert is January through mid February. If you want to get rid of your roses then prune them in early summer. Yes the summer temps do stress our roses here in the low desert. Roses need all of their foliage to prevent sunburn and to help keep the bush as cool as possible. Things you can do to help your roses in summer are planting where they have afternoon shade, provide 3 to 4 inches of mulch, wash down the leaves at least once a week, and provide adequate water. Why not join us at the Mesa East Valley Rose Society meeting this Thursday at 7:00 in the Kiva Room of the Student Center at Mesa Community College for good fellowship and good advice on growing great roses. Be my guest. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From jabluestone@earthlink.net Sun Feb 4 00:41:13 2001 From: jabluestone@earthlink.net (jabluestone@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 17:41:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102040041.RAA15053@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Feathry Cassia Ours were planted last April. One has proven to be in the wrong place and needs to be moved. Is this a good time to move it? If not when? Having recently moved here from the Chicago area,desert gardening is a whole different ballgame. Dirt is suposed to be black and smell fresh when you scoop up a handful! I put a fat midwest earthworm in the "ground" and it came right back up, looked me in the eye and said, "are you nuts?". The last I saw of it, it was boarding a Southwest flight back to Chicago! Well, I strongly suspect,we will learn. Thank you for your help. From MTQR4@aol.com Sun Feb 4 02:04:50 2001 From: MTQR4@aol.com (MTQR4@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 19:04:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102040204.TAA23243@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Has anyone heard of a product called "Super thrive". I bought a small bottle of it at a nursery in Tucson. It is supposed to be a growth hormone for plants that reduces transplant shock and increases bloom, fruit and growth. Does anybody have any experience on using it and what results and procedures? From mgovig@home.com Sun Feb 4 17:42:48 2001 From: mgovig@home.com (mgovig@home.com) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 10:42:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102041742.KAA14167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phonix area? From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 4 18:14:45 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 11:14:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Edamame Soybeans References: <200102041742.KAA14167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <008101c08ed6$685c5140$b723480c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phoenix area? Yes, but they are not well adapted. Plant in March and again in late July to get edible green beans (green as in not ripe). For dry beans, July planting may not allow for a sufficiently long growing season. Also depends on the type - go for the early varieties, 2 1/2 months or ess. -Olin From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 4 19:46:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:46:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cassias, transplanting Message-ID: <8.fd37443.27af0b93@aol.com> Now is a great time to transplant your Cassias. If you will amend your soil with about 4 inches of mulch and add about 2 pounds of soil sulfur per 100 square feet and rototill it in, that worm will be on a flight back to Phoenix to savor the black soil here. For great informatio on gardening check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on vegetables at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 4 19:46:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 14:46:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pine Trees dying Message-ID: Inadequate irrigation can cause almost any tree except the native desert trees to die. Check out this website on irrigation : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html There are not a lot of diseases or insects that can cause the death of pine trees. Nematodes can cause fairly rapid decline in pines, unfortunately there is not any treatment. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From beckman@qwest.net Sun Feb 4 20:43:33 2001 From: beckman@qwest.net (beckman@qwest.net) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 13:43:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102042043.NAA06403@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Six year old cottonwoods have bark that turns dark and separates from the trunk. Bark can just be pulled off. There is webbing and pulverization on the underside of the bark. Scattered about on the tree are holes that you can put your little finger all the way into. This weakens the limbs and raises the chance of a large limb breaking with wind. Anything I can to stop this? Thanks From Marjigirl@msn.com Mon Feb 5 00:52:50 2001 From: Marjigirl@msn.com (Marjigirl@msn.com) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2001 17:52:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102050052.RAA07895@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to know what might be causing our grapefruit and fruit cocktail tree to form leaves at the tip of their branches that are curl up and dry out. We are new homeowners in Arizona and don't know if it is fungus, too much water, not enough water, lack of fertilizer, etc. Any advise you could give us would be very much appreciated. Marjorie Hansen From msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Feb 5 14:56:14 2001 From: msheedy@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Mike Sheedy) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 07:56:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Edamame Soybeans Message-ID: <200102051456.HAA24270@trifid.u.arizona.edu> Soybeans can grow in Central Arizona. The early maturing varieties - I believe - are better adapted than the long season varieties. The main problem in a field environment is the heat. The soil gets very hot in June and July and will 'cook' the roots of young plants. In a garden situation there should be no problem keeping the soil cool for the young plants. March and April are good months to plant soybeans for a garden and you can get by with a June and July planting. You can expect edible pods around mid August to Mid September. Dry beans can be harvested starting late October to November, but you will get a reduced yield if the beans are planted in July. >----- Original Message ----- From: >> Can edamame (soybeans) be grown in the Phoenix area? > >Yes, but they are not well adapted. Plant in March and again in late July >to get edible green beans (green as in not ripe). For dry beans, July >planting may not allow for a sufficiently long growing season. Also >depends on the type - go for the early varieties, 2 1/2 months or >ess. -Olin Mike Sheedy Research Specialist University of Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:20:56 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:20:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blackberries References: <200101042310.QAA28972@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7ED2E7.6549BC56@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to an archived response to a similar question. To view this information please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-May/004363.html Sue Bass Master Gardener SilksMom@cs.com wrote: > Information on growing blackberries in the Phoenix Metro area.I have heard that an acidic soil is needed, Is this true? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:46:15 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:46:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Manzanita References: <200101061924.MAA07337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7ED8D7.F183D763@qwest.net> I did not see that you had received a response to your question regarding Manzanita. I would like to refer you to our archives where you can view several responses to Manzanita questions. I do know that they do not do well in the low desert. However, please browse the responses at: http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default?db=aridgardener&arg=Manzanita so you can get more information. Sue Bass Master Gardener chaparraldoor@qwest.net wrote: > Can I grow Manzanita in the north Phoenix area? > What suggestions on care and location to plant > a Manzanita bush? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 16:49:44 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 09:49:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Manzanita References: <200101061924.MAA07337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7ED9A8.E76144DE@qwest.net> In addition to my previous question, please pay particular attention to the following response in the archives: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/2708.html This is a response from a gentleman at Tucson Growers. I think there are many opinions on growing this shrub. I'll let you decide after viewing all the information. Sue Bass Master Gardener chaparraldoor@qwest.net wrote: > Can I grow Manzanita in the north Phoenix area? > What suggestions on care and location to plant > a Manzanita bush? Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 17:02:30 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 10:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant information References: <200101312028.NAA05813@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7EDCA6.3B42BF41@qwest.net> Jenny: I'd like to refer you to our web page at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ Here you will find a wealth of information. Take your time and really browse around. We have a Publications area which contains information on trees, shrubs, other ornamentals, citrus, lawns, insects and pests, just to name a few. To view the list of publications mentioned, first click on Publications from the home page, then choose The University of Arizona Home Horticulture Publications - Maricopa county. Another place to visit from the home page is the section entitled Plants. There is a section entitled Recommended Reading which will direct you to many books that would help you. Our Timely Tips section gives month by month "do's and don'ts" as well as things to watch for in the home landscape. Sue Bass Master Gardener mamamia59@yahoo.com wrote: > Please provide the names of plant varieties that are well-suited to growing in the Phoenix area and information about local gardening problems (pests, diseases). > > Thank you, > Jenny Pankey > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From annetter11@msn.com Mon Feb 5 19:37:44 2001 From: annetter11@msn.com (annetter11@msn.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 12:37:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102051937.MAA19100@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When my citrus trees start to get yellow leaves I use Chelated Iron and Zinc liquid to cure this problem. Is there a way to prevent this from happening in the first place and if not, is there a cheaper product to use to get rid of the yellow leaves? Thank you for your time! Annette From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:02:23 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:02:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Banana Tree References: <200101102059.NAA15920@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7F06CF.54FF6925@qwest.net> I would like to refer you to the Arizona chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers. You can get information by visiting: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm This includes a phone number and e-mail address. Sue Bass Master Gardener nan85048@aol.com wrote: > My condo Assoc needs info reg our Banana trees. Basic car is needed like watering, fertilizing and planting the small shoots to a new area. We really do not want or expect fruit, just wonderful folage. Thanks lots. We are in downtown PHX > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:05:58 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:05:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Herbs References: <200101110146.SAA19616@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7F07A6.B8E1FC34@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to our archives and a response to a similar question. You can view it by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005635.html Sue Bass Master Gardener scherryd@amug.org wrote: > When is the best time to plant herbs from seeds in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aanthonyandsons@aol.com Mon Feb 5 20:29:02 2001 From: aanthonyandsons@aol.com (aanthonyandsons@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 13:29:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102052029.NAA03049@Ag.Arizona.Edu> my elderica trees are sparse and the needles are curly. One of the trees also has black on the bark. What kind of fertilizer is best for these pines? The trees are five years old. How often should they be watered? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:32:49 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:32:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pawpaw Tree References: <200101270003.RAA07227@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7F0DF1.5A0709C6@qwest.net> I found some information on the Pawpaw on the web. You can view it at: http://www.gardenweb.com/cyberplt/plants/pawpaw.html This site has a reference to the California Rare Fruit Growers. Since we have an Arizona Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers here in Phoenix, I think they would be a great reference for you. The following link will take you to their web site: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/sub-trpc.htm which contains information to contact them. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener saline9@hotmail.com wrote: > Will a paw paw tree grow well in the Safford area? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 20:40:02 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 13:40:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on composting References: <200102010555.WAA27083@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7F0FA2.7B21D0D7@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to a web link section of our web page that contains information on composting. You can get there by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#compost I think you will find some good resources here. Sue Bass Master Gardener lgk007@aol.com wrote: > I will be bringing my two horses home to our property. I am concerned about the waste that comes along with horses. I want to start out right and do as much composting as I can and not have it all hauled away. Is there someone that can help me with building a composting facility and some information on how much and when I can add to the pile of waste. I thank you for your time. > > Lin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 5 21:32:21 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 14:32:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides References: <200102030032.RAA17759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A7F1BE5.F2A3F30D@qwest.net> Fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy answered a similar question a while back. You can view it in our archives by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004824.html Other than that, I do not know of any "safe" herbicides. Most I have seen on the market contain warnings on them that they should be kept away from children and pets and water supplies. Perhaps someone else on the list has some recommendations for you. Sue Bass Master Gardener rafikikita@att.net wrote: > My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pine tree looking unhealthy Message-ID: <26.10d7ef21.27b0818c@aol.com> Trees that are kept healthy by adequate irrigation are much less susceptable to attacks by insects or pathogens. Aphids and spider mites can cause the pine tree to look unhealthy and usually can be controlled by a strong water spray. Nematodes attack the roots and can kill a pine tree in a very short time and there is not a cure available. Pine blight, caused by rapid weather changes is usually short lived. Do not fertilize pines with a nitrogen fertilizer as nitrogen is toxic to pines. A two inch layer of composted manure with soil sulfur added and applied over the root zone is beneficial to pines. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:05 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:05 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus tree problems Message-ID: <16.86dc4af.27b0818d@aol.com> Marjorie I suspect that you may have a problem with inadequate irrigation. Check out the following website for citrus irrigation : www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:22:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:22:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus with yellow leaves Message-ID: Annette, It is quite normal for citrus to have yellow leaves in the winter. If the leaves do not green up as we get into spring, then you probably have an irrigation problem, you are either under or over watering or you haven't fertilized. Check out this website on irrigation of citrus : www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 5 22:26:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:26:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cottonwoods with borers Message-ID: I answered a similiar question recently and is available at :http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/4644.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Feb 6 00:09:29 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:09:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides References: <200102030032.RAA17759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A7F1BE5.F2A3F30D@qwest.net> Message-ID: <000401c08fd1$17ee3d80$0626480c@j0r9501> There are acid-based and corn gluten meal products touted as "natural" herbicides. See http://www.extremelygreen.com/ for some examples . Also see Peaceful valley Farm Supply's Page at http://www.groworganic.com/ and follow the links for info about "Safer's Superfast Weedkiller" Can't say about safety to pets - I have never needed to resort to weed killers on my one acre lot. I would not want to live next door to someone using a flamethrower. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sue Bass" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 2:32 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Safe alternatives to herbicides > Fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy answered a similar question a while back. You can view it in our archives by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004824.html > > Other than that, I do not know of any "safe" herbicides. Most I have seen on the market contain warnings on them that they should be kept away from children and pets and water supplies. > Perhaps someone else on the list has some recommendations for you. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > rafikikita@att.net wrote: > > > My backyard is overrun by weeds. There are a few trees in my yard, and an area of midiron grass. Is there such thing as a "safe" herbicide? I'm allergic to most weeds and I'm chemically sensitive to pesticides and herbicides. Is there anything that I can used to kill weeds that won't harm me or my dogs? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From ehawk9675@juno.com Tue Feb 6 01:15:15 2001 From: ehawk9675@juno.com (Eldon W Hawkins) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 18:15:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit Rind Message-ID: <20010205.181517.-4103255.0.ehawk9675@juno.com> I have extremely thick rind on my grapefruit. Is there a particular cause? ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From rockys_email@yahoo.com Wed Feb 7 02:51:13 2001 From: rockys_email@yahoo.com (rockys_email@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 19:51:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102070251.TAA23969@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a tree in the back yard. Last year no fruit but this year it had a good crop. They look like a orange, smell like a orange, taste like a orange but they are red on the inside. If picked a little early the bottom half of the inside is red and the top half is like a normal orange. If left on the tree they turn full red on the inside. But still taste and smell like an orange. Some people call them a native Arizona orange. Others call them a blood orange. But most have never seen one. So what kind of orange tree do I have? I live in NW Tucson. Thanks.. From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Wed Feb 7 03:41:51 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 20:41:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102070341.UAA04376@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a citrus tree(grapefruit) that was planted just under two years ago. My question is, how many drip emitters are needed under such a tree. I run the system for six hours at a time, usually once every five days in the summer and once every three weeks in the winter, this providing no signifigant rain occurs. Someone told me twenty two gallon an hour emitters. Is this your suggestion? Also, I would think that a layer of mulch in the tree basin would be helpful. When should it be applied and what type of mulch do you suggest? Would shredded bark be ok? How deep should it be applied? Thanks for your time. Max From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed Feb 7 06:11:28 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 23:11:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200102070251.TAA23969@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <002401c090cd$3898b040$4c25480c@j0r9501> Sounds like blood orange to me. There are several varieties grown in Phoenix around GCC and Sahuaro Ranch Park but most don't get the deep red color one commonly sees in the Mediterranean region. With Tucson's higher elevation and cooler climate there is a better chance of getting a deeper red color. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > We have a tree in the back yard. Last year no fruit but this year it had a good crop. They look like a orange, smell like a orange, taste like a orange but they are red on the inside. If picked a little early the bottom half of the inside is red and the top half is like a normal orange. If left on the tree they turn full red on the inside. But still taste and smell like an orange. Some people call them a native Arizona orange. Others call them a blood orange. But most have never seen one. So what kind of orange tree do I have? I live in NW Tucson. Thanks. From scorpion10310@juno.com Wed Feb 7 16:10:10 2001 From: scorpion10310@juno.com (scorpion10310@juno.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:10:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102071610.JAA05708@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What care should you give pamelo(pumelo)'s.,when to pick fruit? Meat of fruit seems dry. Thks From djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Wed Feb 7 16:10:29 2001 From: djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net (djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:10:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102071610.JAA05789@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net Wed Feb 7 16:14:06 2001 From: djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net (djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:14:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102071614.JAA06634@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to diminish the fruit production. thank you From Godfatherdom@aol.com Wed Feb 7 18:56:46 2001 From: Godfatherdom@aol.com (Godfatherdom@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:56:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102071856.LAA20113@Ag.Arizona.Edu> To paint the trunk of a tree is there any specific type I should or should not use? Thank you. From daletate@swbell.net Wed Feb 7 22:55:01 2001 From: daletate@swbell.net (daletate@swbell.net) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:55:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102072255.PAA25394@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I just purchased four plants of Dalea greggii while in Tucson this past week. They are in gallon containers and were quite expensive, $4.50 each at retail. Now will some one tell me when and how to transplant them and the care I should give them until they go in the ground. I'm guessing I'll need to hold them for about five weeks in El Paso Texas. Also, how are they propagated in commercial nurseries. Thanks Dale Tate Thanks Dale Tate From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Protecting a tree from sunburn Message-ID: Trees can be protected from sunburn by painting with whitewash or a water based paint. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:43 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus Watering Message-ID: Your citrus should be happy with 5 two gallon drippers placed at the drip line of the tree and at 7 to 10 day intervals in the summer and 30 intervals in the winter. Watering 6 hours should give you enough water to satisfy the tree until its crown reaches 8 feet in diameter. A 4 inch mulch of shredded bark would work fine. Check out this website on citrus watering: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Feb 7 23:40:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 18:40:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pummelo care Message-ID: <82.696f996.27b336f9@aol.com> The harvest time for the pummelo is about the same as for grapefruit, ie December and January. If you live in a colder part of the valley the dryness could be caused by frost damage. Excellent information is available on citrus care in U. of A. Cooperative Extension bulletin # 8464, Citrus Trees In The Home Garden at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for only $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Feb 8 01:16:44 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 18:16:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dalea greggii References: <200102072255.PAA25394@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A81F37C.652F807B@qwest.net> Dale: I don't know what the climate around El Paso is like as far as how cold your winters are, but it is generally best to transplant after danger of frost has past. A simple rule found in Eric A. Johnson's book, "Johnson's Guide To Gardening Plants For The Arid West, Pruning, Planting & Care", is that if in doubt about the proper time to plant for your region, plant anytime you can usually count on four weeks or more of mild weather to follow. This will allow plants to establish before stress, in the form of heat or cold, comes on. As for specific care of your Prostrate Trailing Indigo Bush as Dalea greggii is commonly called, you should space them when planting at least 4 to 6 feet on centers and at least 6 feet from curbs, walks, or other plants. Plant in soil with good drainage. A gallon-sized plant can cover 6 to 10 square feet in one season. After a few years, plants will begin to develop a mounding habit and lost their flat look. You can then shear into old wood to 6 inches above ground level in early spring to create fresh growth and a more groomed appearance. New growth will develop as temperatures warm. Recovery is rapid. Old wood can build up within three years so it is best to cut back plant to renew before it reaches a woody stage. Prune to control as needed or plants grow like slow-moving lava flow to smother nearby accent plants or dwarfish plants. It is a self-fertilizing legume. This is information from the the previously mentioned book. Until you plant your plants, give them plenty of sun as they are full sun to partial shade plants and allow soil to dry between waterings. They are a low water use plant. They are native to Texas and Mexico and are hardy to 15F to 20F degrees. You can contact your local county Cooperative Extension office for additional planting information pertinent to your area. Sue Bass Master Gardener daletate@swbell.net wrote: > Hello, > I just purchased four plants of Dalea > greggii while in Tucson this past week. They > are in gallon containers and were quite > expensive, $4.50 each at retail. Now will > some one tell me when and how to transplant > them and the care I should give them until > they go in the ground. I'm guessing I'll need > to hold them for about five weeks in El Paso > Texas. > Also, how are they propagated in commercial > nurseries. > > Thanks > > Dale Tate > > Thanks > Dale Tate > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jhayesfamily@prodigy.net Thu Feb 8 02:20:24 2001 From: jhayesfamily@prodigy.net (jhayesfamily@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:20:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102080220.TAA01744@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the best way to compost? I've seen many systems one can buy, but what fits for our climate? From JMM1014@aol.com Thu Feb 8 03:43:28 2001 From: JMM1014@aol.com (JMM1014@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:43:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102080343.UAA16053@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 15 year old Lemon Tree that needs to be pruned. Can you tell me when the best time to prune is? And how much should I prune? From susanberquist@msn.com Thu Feb 8 13:15:10 2001 From: susanberquist@msn.com (susanberquist@msn.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 06:15:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102081315.GAA21179@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I find which days in Nov Dec and Jan were rain days in Phoenix? From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 13:57:49 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 06:57:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Composting References: <200102080220.TAA01744@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A82A5DD.E9A7C8EA@AuroraNow.org> I read a little ditty several years ago that worked to keep my memory refreshed for several years: "Two parts green to one part brown Turn it over to break it down." The green (table & yard scraps) and brown (dirt) ingredients may vary from region to region, but the process is the same. A bin made of chicken wire (3'x3'x3') and wood framing is the simplest. Expensive composting "equipment" seems unnecessary. Moisture is necessary, though. If your compost is too dry, it won't decompose. If it's too wet, it will start to smell. Rule of thumb is that it should be about as damp as a squeezed out rag. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 14:50:05 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 07:50:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cuttings from natives References: <200102081315.GAA21179@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A82B21D.297A9E88@AuroraNow.org> Can anyone give me pointers or share experiences of taking cuttings from desert natives? I'm trying some softwood cuttings of brittlebush, jojoba and desert lavender salvia that I'm treating like any other cutting (only I'm using my usual sand and desert compost mix instead of potting soil). My usual routine is to dip the cutting in rooting hormone, put it in the soil mix and keep a plastic bag around it, keep it moist until I see signs of growth--usually about 4-5 weeks. This has worked for me quite well with hibiscus and others. Should it work with natives? I haven't had much success with brittlebush from seed, so I figured I'd try cuttings. Has anyone else had experience re: care while rooting and transplanting of natives? Also, does anyone know the germination period for penstemons (on average). I have desert beardtongue, which I cold stratified and have just germinated after 8-10 days. The p. spectabilis which I was told *didn't* need to be stratified has yet to germ. after 4 weeks. And finally... For those of you in the Tucson area, I HIGHLY recommend a visit to the Desert Museum soon! We live only a few miles away so a friend and I went up for lunch yesterday and I can't remember ever seeing so much bloom. I didn't want to leave! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From saz621@primenet.com Thu Feb 8 15:28:36 2001 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 08:28:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: cuttings from natives References: <200102081315.GAA21179@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A82B21D.297A9E88@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3A82BB23.BE8B3850@primenet.com> Sherryl, You should be able to take cuttings of the plants you describe in precisely the same way you would any other perennial. They are all best from softwood cuttings in either fall or spring. The greatest challenge in preventing fungal infestations once they are potted up and growing in containers in the summer. To alleviate that a product called Root Shield has proven to be very effective. It may only be available from nursery supply houses, I can't be sure. I would surmise that Penstemon spectabilis would indeed need cold stratification, as do almost all penstemon seed. I have been told that soaking them in a hydrogen peroxide solution also helps germination but I have not tried it myself. Good luck, Mary Irish Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Can anyone give me pointers or share experiences of taking cuttings from > desert natives? I'm trying some softwood cuttings of brittlebush, jojoba > and desert lavender salvia that I'm treating like any other cutting > (only I'm using my usual sand and desert compost mix instead of potting > soil). My usual routine is to dip the cutting in rooting hormone, put it > in the soil mix and keep a plastic bag around it, keep it moist until I > see signs of growth--usually about 4-5 weeks. This has worked for me > quite well with hibiscus and others. Should it work with natives? > > I haven't had much success with brittlebush from seed, so I figured I'd > try cuttings. Has anyone else had experience re: care while rooting and > transplanting of natives? > > Also, does anyone know the germination period for penstemons (on > average). I have desert beardtongue, which I cold stratified and have > just germinated after 8-10 days. The p. spectabilis which I was told > *didn't* need to be stratified has yet to germ. after 4 weeks. > > And finally... > For those of you in the Tucson area, I HIGHLY recommend a visit to the > Desert Museum soon! We live only a few miles away so a friend and I went > up for lunch yesterday and I can't remember ever seeing so much bloom. I > didn't want to leave! > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Feb 8 16:15:21 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 09:15:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: cuttings from natives References: <200102081315.GAA21179@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A82B21D.297A9E88@AuroraNow.org> <3A82BB23.BE8B3850@primenet.com> Message-ID: <3A82C619.F89858DE@AuroraNow.org> > The greatest challenge in preventing > fungal infestations once they are potted up and growing in containers in the > summer. To alleviate that a product called Root Shield has proven to be very > effective. One of the MGs here had heard that watering with chamomile tea prevents damp off, and I'm happy to report that using it on my soaptree yuccas that had just started to germinate has eliminated the fuzzy white that had developed (whether it was just mildew or damp off, I have no idea). My seedlings are all fuzz-free now :-). I can't remember which MG here made the recommendation, but thanks! Would you recommend transferring the cuttings to containers for the summer and putting them out in the fall? I figured, especially with the brittlebush that gets a deep taproot, I'd want to put them in the ground as soon as they seemed decently rooted. Thanks again, -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bbpotts@az.rmci.net Thu Feb 8 17:20:34 2001 From: bbpotts@az.rmci.net (bbpotts@az.rmci.net) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:20:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102081720.KAA09694@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My navel orange tree that is 2 years old has spiney limbs should these be trimmed? These limbs occure in various locations in the tree not just in the lower areas. Is there a way to eliminate these limbs? From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Feb 8 17:31:45 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:31:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rainfall in Phoenix References: <200102081315.GAA21179@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <004b01c091f5$73a9d960$c721480c@j0r9501> Be aware that rainfall is quite different around the valley. It can be pouring rain in Southwest Phoenix or at the Airport and in Northwest Phoenix we do have a drop of rain. So if you are looking for all of Phoenix it might be pretty hard to find. For rainfall at Sky Harbor, you would need to find a National Weather Service database or you may be able to get it from the AZ Republic Archives. For general average data of interest for gardening, The Arizona Meteorological Network has an excellent database. Go to http://ag.arizona.edu/AZMET/ Select the box "Data Access" . There you have a choice of a number of station locations around the valley. I usually select either Phoenix Greenway (closer to me) or Phoenix Encanto (more centrally located). For Example: If you select Phoenix Encanto, this brings up the monthly menu for each year. For November and December, you would select "Monthly" on the 2000 line and on the 2001 line for January. For January 2001, you will find rainfall was recorded on at the Encanto station 1-6,8,9,12,16, and 27 for a total 1.71 inches. But at Phoenix Greenway there was recorded rainfall on 1-8, 9, 12, 14, 15, 16 and 27 for a total of 2.39 inches for January. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 6:15 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Where can I find which days in Nov Dec and Jan were rain days in Phoenix? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From bjchambe@dcaccess.com Thu Feb 8 18:17:01 2001 From: bjchambe@dcaccess.com (BJ) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:17:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Trees Message-ID: <000a01c091fb$564d4fe0$6803d440@jrchambe> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Arid_gardener; We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in our back yard. = We have no idea how to care for them. We want to prune them soon to = encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then fertilize them. = Any information you can give us about taking care of them would be = helpful. Barbara & John ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Arid_gardener;
    We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer = in our=20 back yard.  We have no idea how to care for them.  We want to = prune=20 them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then = fertilize=20 them.  Any information you can give us about taking care of = them would=20 be helpful.
Barbara & John
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C091C0.A8D2A7A0-- From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 8 20:02:25 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 15:02:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus fertilizer Message-ID: Hello, I have a question regarding fertilizing my citrus trees. I have some Arizona's Best citrus food, 13-10-4, that I bought about 1 and a half years ago. The directions aren't very specific as to how much to use for ground planted trees. It mostly deals with container trees. How much of it do I need to use for trees that are over 20 years old? Also, it says it only has 0.20% iron. That doesn't seem like enough iron. I checked at the store and the same stuff that I bought 1 and a half years ago now has 2.00% iron. Is 0.20% iron enough? I heard that the citrus food loses quality over time. If that's true, should I buy some new fertilizer? I bought a 40 lb bag and there is still a lot left that I would hate to see go to waste. Thanks for your time. Tom From Nonelson@aol.com Thu Feb 8 21:34:03 2001 From: Nonelson@aol.com (Nonelson@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 16:34:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lady Bank's Rose Message-ID: <72.7ad9bae.27b46acb@aol.com> --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Several years ago, while in Tombstone, I got a cutting from the Lady Bank's Rose in one of the museums. This is supposed to be the largest Rose Tree in the world; at least according to the Guiness Book of Records. It has grown and prospered in my Phoenix home, however, several times I have tried to take cuttings from mine, with a singular lack of success. Can some one please advise me how to take successful cuttings from this plant. Thank you Neil Nelson nonelson@aol.com --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Several years ago, while in Tombstone, I got a cutting from the Lady Bank's
Rose in one of the museums. This is supposed to be the largest Rose Tree in
the world; at least according to the Guiness Book of Records. It has grown
and prospered in my Phoenix home, however, several times I have tried to take
cuttings from mine, with  a singular lack of success. Can some one please
advise me how to take successful cuttings from this plant.
Thank you

Neil Nelson
nonelson@aol.com --part1_72.7ad9bae.27b46acb_boundary-- From rap1020@home.com Thu Feb 8 21:37:12 2001 From: rap1020@home.com (rap1020@home.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:37:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102082137.OAA15550@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have gardenia plant on the north side of my house out of direct sun. I supplement the soil to maintain acidity. The newer leaves are slightly yellow with brown spots on them. The buds form but turn brown and drop off prior to bloom. What is wrong? What can be done? From stognermd@netdoor.com Fri Feb 9 01:59:07 2001 From: stognermd@netdoor.com (stognermd@netdoor.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 18:59:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102090159.SAA14853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i want to buy a Warren pear tree. Know where I can find that particular type? thanks. steve From Annecissi@aol.com Fri Feb 9 03:49:49 2001 From: Annecissi@aol.com (Annecissi@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:49:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102090349.UAA04761@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an orange and grapefruit tree--they have lots of lower branches and most of the fruit was on these lower braches.However, before the fruit was ripe the branches was on the ground--everything I read says you should not prune citrus but I lost a lot of fruit to "critters and bugs". Can these lower branches be trimed and if so, how much? Thank you! From bcvoax@aol.com Fri Feb 9 16:39:20 2001 From: bcvoax@aol.com (bcvoax@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 09:39:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102091639.JAA17386@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Sun Lakes and I have four citrus trees in my backyard, they are aprx. 6 years old. A lemon tree that appears healthy but had only one lemon this year. Next to it is an Arizona sweet orange which appears to be healthy but had small fruit. Next to it is a pink grapefruit tree which had only five small grapefruit on it this year and only about one-third of the tree has mature leaves it continually drops its leaves, looks sad. The last tree is a tangelo tree which doesn't look bad but did not bare any fruit. all of the trees are on the same watering system were fertizized three times last year and received a dose of ironite. Help From patricbain@aol.com Fri Feb 9 17:12:37 2001 From: patricbain@aol.com (patricbain@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 10:12:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102091712.KAA29324@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Variety of tomato which can be grown in Maricopa county in a container or direct into bed successfully. From bmorriss@speedchoice.com Fri Feb 9 18:31:18 2001 From: bmorriss@speedchoice.com (bmorriss@speedchoice.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 11:31:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102091831.LAA20091@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have our own composting bin, but we're experiencing problems w/ roaches in the bottom portion of the bin. What can we do to eliminate this? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:42 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, pruning mature trees Message-ID: <50.11385c92.27b5c28a@aol.com> Mature citrus need very little or no pruning other than removing dead wood and twiggy inside growth. The lemon tree is quite vigorous and the outside growth may have to be pruned to keep within bounds. Never prune more than 25% at one time and be very careful not to expose limbs or the trunk to the sun without protecting them with white water based paint or a wrap. Now would be a good time of year to do this. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Pruning young citrus Message-ID: Young trees and especially citrus should not be pruned except to remove dead or crossing branches. Food manufacturing capabilities are reduced each time a leaf or a branch is removed. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:43 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mesquite Tree Care Message-ID: Barbara and John, Do not remove any growth from the trunk of your screwbean mesquites if the trees still require staking. If the trees are multiple trunk and you want a sngle trunk you could select the most vigorous trunk and remove the rest. Do as little pruning on your trees as possible until they are two to three years in the ground. Two to three ounces of fertilizer applied two to three times during the growing season would benefit the trees. Be sure to water in well. Mesquites can survive in our desert climate with very little supplimental water once they are established, however they won't grow very fast. I would suggest deep watering at widely spaced intervals. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Propagation from cuttings Message-ID: <68.beb6118.27b5c289@aol.com> Neil There is excellent information on plant propagation at the folowing website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 9 22:00:38 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 17:00:38 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus fertilizer Message-ID: <33.107b2b30.27b5c286@aol.com> Tom U. of A. recommends that a mature citrus tree be fertilized with one pound of actual nitrogen per year applied in three applications starting in February. The fertilizer that you have has 13% nitrogen; to obtain one pound of nitrogen you must use 7.69 pounds of fertilizer. I would round it of to eight pounds. Iron is not a critical item in most low desert soils for citrus nor is the age of the fertilizer a concern. I would use it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From stevebethparker@kna.to Sat Feb 10 04:48:26 2001 From: stevebethparker@kna.to (stevebethparker@kna.to) Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2001 21:48:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102100448.VAA10698@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just planted 2 agovey (spelled wrong im sure.) and a 2nd year med palm tree. how much water and how often,do each plan need. clueless and in need of help...steve From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 10 13:42:08 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 06:42:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fw: bottle tree question Message-ID: <000e01c0936b$a06f3400$1ac9480c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steph - home" I suspect that your citrus trees are not getting adequate water. Check out this website on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 10 14:47:50 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 09:47:50 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus fruit hanging on the ground Message-ID: <98.10644a03.27b6ae96@aol.com> Yes it is ok to remove lower branches that are not high enough to keep the fruit off the ground on your citrus trees, but if you remove enough so that the trunk is exposed to the sun, be sure to protect the trunk with water based paint or a wrap. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat Feb 10 15:35:17 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 10:35:17 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: olives... Message-ID: --part1_ba.11666a00.27b6b9b5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 2/7/01 2:11:29 PM US Mountain Standard Time, Awinant writes: << Subj: olives... Date: 2/7/01 2:11:29 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: Awinant To: JeanSciFi Hi.... you dont know me but I found your correspondence with stack@goodnet.com on the web. The problem is that her email address doesnt exist anymore... Im a bit confused, so far Ive been following her directions for olive curing, thought that since youve tried it you might be able to help me? I picked medium sized black olives (deep purple on the inside) and put them in the brine with the concentration she suggested. I notice now that some of the olives are turning whitish on the end or ends, sort of like they are losing their pigment. In some cases it has spread through the entire olive. Is this something to be concerned about? Also, in one of my jars a mold is developing on the top, luckily today is the day I had stronger brine... What should I do about that, if anything. Thanks very much for your help, Id really appreciate your response if you have the time. Alex Winant >> --part1_ba.11666a00.27b6b9b5_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: From: Awinant@aol.com Full-name: Awinant Message-ID: <8a.2196ec2.27b31401@aol.com> Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 16:11:29 EST Subject: olives... To: JeanSciFi@aol.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 113 Hi.... you dont know me but I found your correspondence with stack@goodnet.com on the web. The problem is that her email address doesnt exist anymore... Im a bit confused, so far Ive been following her directions for olive curing, thought that since youve tried it you might be able to help me? I picked medium sized black olives (deep purple on the inside) and put them in the brine with the concentration she suggested. I notice now that some of the olives are turning whitish on the end or ends, sort of like they are losing their pigment. In some cases it has spread through the entire olive. Is this something to be concerned about? Also, in one of my jars a mold is developing on the top, luckily today is the day I had stronger brine... What should I do about that, if anything. Thanks very much for your help, Id really appreciate your response if you have the time. Alex Winant --part1_ba.11666a00.27b6b9b5_boundary-- From susy_1@msn.com Sat Feb 10 19:09:22 2001 From: susy_1@msn.com (susy_1@msn.com) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 12:09:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102101909.MAA25464@Ag.Arizona.Edu> recently planted mature common white calla lillies in "mini oasis" on E. side of house. when took them out of the pots they were all "root-bound", each plant having 1 flower. live in Cave Creek just N. of scottsdale. they are in a largely shaded area & have survived the transplanting well. have never grown them before & will appreciate any info. you have about growing in our climate. when the flowers wilt should we cut them? how often should we feed? what months will they grow? when they die off do we cut them down to ground level? thank-you for anything you know about this. susan From jjgerl@earthlink.net Sat Feb 10 23:51:42 2001 From: jjgerl@earthlink.net (jjgerl@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 16:51:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102102351.QAA27076@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 11 00:52:28 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 17:52:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus Yellowing and Pruning In-Reply-To: <200102102351.QAA27076@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-April/003859.html for an answer to this question, which came up before. Also, you can go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in hibiscus for previous hibiscus discussions. There is a lot of help in those many questions and answers and some other web sites to visit for hibiscus information. I personally love these plants because they're so very green all year and have those wonderful flowers. When they start yellowing I give them some Schultz Iron Green which has iron, nitrogen and other goodies in it. That always does the trick. You can buy this product in home stores, Walmart, etc. -Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jjgerl@earthlink.net Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 4:52 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Feb 11 03:04:15 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2001 20:04:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus care References: <200102102351.QAA27076@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A86012E.3B9EF01E@qwest.net> I've copied below some information from Charles Black who owns Hidden Valley Hibiscus in San Diego County, California. You can find many of his hibiscus at valley nurseries including Harpers. Here is what Charles has to say about pruning (keep in mind that the height he is talking about is for a container grown Hibiscus, but this is the time to do it. I'd like to direct you to the HVH web site at: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ They provide excellent information on growing hibiscus including recommendations on fertilizers. Very good information on fertilizers including what kinds to avoid. You can also e-mail them directly from their web page with questions on growing them. Charles is wonderful about responding to questions. I have learned a lot about these plants from them. Sue Bass Master Gardener From: Charles Black Date: Mon Dec 4, 2000 5:36am Bill, this is an easy one. Whack em back! Way back. Seriously, hibiscus can be pruned extensively and they just roar back with new branches and fresh foliage. I would cut the main branches low down, leaving only a few leaves and some stubs several inches long. The whole plant should then be no more than a foot high, pot included, and not extend much if any beyond the sides of the pot. The main danger in pruning in fall or winter is that any new little shoots that start to come out are very susceptible to freezing if you expect them to be in temperatures below 32 during the winter. If they will be protected from frosts then there is no problem. The other way to invigorate hibiscus is to root prune them prior to repotting. Not necessary if you are increasing the pot size, however. Charles jjgerl@earthlink.net wrote: > Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Feb 11 12:26:08 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 05:26:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hidden Valley Hibiscus Site In-Reply-To: <3A86012E.3B9EF01E@qwest.net> Message-ID: I haven't been able to get to the Hidden Valley Hibiscus site for days. First I thought that maybe he was working on it but it has been down for quite a while so I don't know what's going on. -Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sue Bass Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2001 8:04 PM To: jjgerl@earthlink.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus care I've copied below some information from Charles Black who owns Hidden Valley Hibiscus in San Diego County, California. You can find many of his hibiscus at valley nurseries including Harpers. Here is what Charles has to say about pruning (keep in mind that the height he is talking about is for a container grown Hibiscus, but this is the time to do it. I'd like to direct you to the HVH web site at: http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/ They provide excellent information on growing hibiscus including recommendations on fertilizers. Very good information on fertilizers including what kinds to avoid. You can also e-mail them directly from their web page with questions on growing them. Charles is wonderful about responding to questions. I have learned a lot about these plants from them. Sue Bass Master Gardener From: Charles Black Date: Mon Dec 4, 2000 5:36am Bill, this is an easy one. Whack em back! Way back. Seriously, hibiscus can be pruned extensively and they just roar back with new branches and fresh foliage. I would cut the main branches low down, leaving only a few leaves and some stubs several inches long. The whole plant should then be no more than a foot high, pot included, and not extend much if any beyond the sides of the pot. The main danger in pruning in fall or winter is that any new little shoots that start to come out are very susceptible to freezing if you expect them to be in temperatures below 32 during the winter. If they will be protected from frosts then there is no problem. The other way to invigorate hibiscus is to root prune them prior to repotting. Not necessary if you are increasing the pot size, however. Charles jjgerl@earthlink.net wrote: > Help, I have 6 hibiscus plants (about 4' tall) that were planted in November. They continue to bloom, but keep getting yellow leaves (which I pick off). What do you think is happening? Also I would like to know: 1) When and how much should I prune these plants, and 2) Can you give me the name of something to use to fertilizer these plants? Thanks so much - A Real Novice > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From blguard@worldnet.att.net Sun Feb 11 15:16:46 2001 From: blguard@worldnet.att.net (blguard@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 08:16:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102111516.IAA19282@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have dwarf myrtles planted as a low hedge. I have had to replace them many times because they turn brown and then die after about 6 months. I tried spraying them with diazinon, because I thought they had cutworms. This seemed to help a bit last year, but now about half of them are turning brown and dying again. I’ve been reading about Cotton Root Rot, and wonder if it could effect myrtles. Any suggestion? From ncornell3@home.com Sun Feb 11 19:26:37 2001 From: ncornell3@home.com (ncornell3@home.com) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 12:26:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102111926.MAA16593@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Re: Old orange tree. I have an orange tree that is at least 45 years old one branch still produces delicious navel oranges. A patch of fungus roughly the size of a baseball mit has taken up residence on an area of the trunk where a large branch was removed many years ago. The tree has a few bare, dark brances but most of it appears to me rather healthy is there away to save this tree or should I have it removed? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 11 22:23:14 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:23:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Orange tree aging Message-ID: At 45 years your orange tree is nearing the end of its life expectancy, however I wouldn't give up on it yet; have the dead pruned out and water and fertilize adequately, it maay last a few more years. Goodd luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 11 22:23:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:23:10 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Myrtle dying Message-ID: <42.10919f64.27b86ace@aol.com> Myrtle is suseptable to Texas Root Rot, however a plant aflicted with TRR will die during the late summer and fall. Could you be overwatering? Myrtle is quite drought tolerant, and if you are watering more often than once per week in summer then it is too often once the plant is established. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From nhahn@earthlink.net Mon Feb 12 00:42:24 2001 From: nhahn@earthlink.net (nhahn@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 17:42:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102120042.RAA23469@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently bought 2 mandarin trees (Algerian Clementines), and when I brought them home and looked them up in the Sunset Western Gardens book, I learned they need to be cross polinated. Will the two I bought do the trick or does it have to be another variety of mandarin? I have an orange tree, grapefruit and lemon tree already. Would any of them work? Thanks for your help. From standingfox@yahoo.com Mon Feb 12 03:29:22 2001 From: standingfox@yahoo.com (standingfox@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 11 Feb 2001 20:29:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102120329.UAA16622@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Need to know the last frost dates for Cave Creek area of Maricopa County. Deer Park was the closest listing. If I do plantings now what do you recommend covering the plants with to prevent frost damage. thanks Don Gerstenschlager Cave Creek From Bonnie@labis.net Mon Feb 12 07:37:27 2001 From: Bonnie@labis.net (Bonnie@labis.net) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 00:37:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102120737.AAA17233@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a dwarf lemon tree that is about ten years old. I do not know how to prune it properly, if at all. I'm told I shouldn't prune it except for the very ends of the branches. I cut off a large branch. Did I make a mistake? And how should I be pruning this tree? Thank you From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Feb 12 16:31:42 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:31:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] composting info References: <200102120737.AAA17233@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A880FEE.9CAFADA5@AuroraNow.org> Someone had asked about composting statistics. I just ran across this: > Composting can easily reduce by half the volume of material a household sends to > a landfill. If you don't care about accelerating the processing, just keep adding > material at the > top. Bury fresh kitchen scraps to prevent flies, and try to keep a balance of dry > "brown" materials and fresh "green" material. For more technical information, > try visiting RotWeb: http://www.a-horizon.com/compost/compost_menu.html The website has a great resource of information about composting, both practical "how to" info and "why" info (stats, articles, etc). Hope this helps for those who have been asking. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 16:26:11 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:26:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wildflowers Message-ID: <3A880EA3.974D98E1@qwest.net> Greetings fellow wildflower fans! I wanted to share this note I received from a friend who leads hikes for Gilbert Parks and Rec. It sounds like it is going to be a glorious wildflower season, just a bit earlier than usual. Get out there and enjoy! - Sue Bass The wildflowers are blooming early and it is possible that this year will be even better than the gorgeous bloom we had in 1998. Sunday's Arizona Republic gave this page information for wildflower updates and identification. Take a look if you get a chance and get out there quick in case they don't last! http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html From dsavini@hotmail.com Mon Feb 12 17:21:21 2001 From: dsavini@hotmail.com (dsavini@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:21:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102121721.KAA11358@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I plant a pink jasmine vine. 5 Gallon would like to plant it against block fence facing east. Does it take full sun in the summer. Thank you so much for your time. From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:35:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:35:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Composting References References: <200102080220.TAA01744@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A883AED.2C12CCD0@qwest.net> If you return to the website where you originally posted your question, you will see a section on links, one of which is composting. There are many effective ways to compost and alot depends on the volume of material you have, space in your yard and time to manage it. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm We also have publications on composting in the vegetables section of our pubs page http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable You'll have to order it [instructions to do so are there] or you can see if the local library has our notebook in the Reference section, #635. Linda Guy Master Gardener jhayesfamily@prodigy.net wrote: > What is the best way to compost? I've seen many systems one can buy, but what fits for our climate? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:38:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:38:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus References: <200102120737.AAA17233@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A883BAF.6905BA19@qwest.net> Citrus only needs to be pruned to maintain shape, remove diseased or dead wood or crossing branches that rub each other. Leaving the canopy lower protects the trunk from sunburn. Any foliage you can leave on the tree provides that much more in the way of nutrient-manufacturing [photosynthesis] capability to bear more/better fruit. Your tree will probably be fine, but remember that with citrus, less pruning is often more! Linda Guy Master Gardener Bonnie@labis.net wrote: > I have a dwarf lemon tree that is about ten years old. I do not know how to prune it properly, if at all. I'm told I shouldn't prune it except for the very ends of the branches. I cut off a large branch. Did I make a mistake? And how should I be pruning this tree? > Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:42:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:42:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mandarin Pollinization References: <200102120042.RAA23469@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A883CAA.6174DD72@qwest.net> The topic is covered in a great publication that is available online [AZ 1001] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus The tree is self-pollinating, but with another Algerian, you'll probably have better fruit production and reduce the risk of increased seed production which another mandarin variety might introduce. Linda Guy Master Gardener nhahn@earthlink.net wrote: > I recently bought 2 mandarin trees (Algerian Clementines), and when I brought them home and looked them up in the Sunset Western Gardens book, I learned they need to be cross polinated. Will the two I bought do the trick or does it have to be another variety of mandarin? I have an orange tree, grapefruit and lemon tree already. Would any of them work? Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:45:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:45:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation Requirements - Agave and Palms References: <200102100448.VAA10698@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A883D74.7BF19951@qwest.net> We have publications that can help you at this part of our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Check out the online pubs AZ 1048 Care of Desert Plants and AZ1021 AZ Landscape palms. Also of interest, though you'd have to order it , is 8309 on Cactus, agave, etc. Linda Guy Master Gardener stevebethparker@kna.to wrote: > I just planted 2 agovey (spelled wrong im sure.) and a 2nd year med palm tree. how much water and how often,do each plan need. > clueless and in need of help...steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 19:49:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 12:49:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roaches in Compost References: <200102091831.LAA20091@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A883E2D.ED0B37E8@qwest.net> We had a rousing discussion a few year's back that you might be able to find in our archives, which is in the same place that you originally placed your question. My personal opinion is that insect life in the compost [a] is not in my home or elsewhere in my yard and [b] serves a wonderful, albeit microscopic compost turning function for me. Several posters, including one of the ag agents, agreed with me. They love water and this sort of material and better that they find it there than trooping into your home to access same! Sorry, I know it's probably not the answer you want to hear. Linda Guy Master Gardener bmorriss@speedchoice.com wrote: > we have our own composting bin, but we're experiencing problems w/ roaches in the bottom portion of the bin. What can we do to eliminate this? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lime-my-art@home.com Mon Feb 12 20:38:01 2001 From: lime-my-art@home.com (lime-my-art@home.com) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:38:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102122038.NAA02342@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We recently planted a dwarf navel orange tree in our yard. How often should we fertilze it and when? Thanks in advance for your help. From like-my-art@home.com Mon Feb 12 20:38:18 2001 From: like-my-art@home.com (like-my-art@home.com) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:38:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102122038.NAA02400@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We recently planted a dwarf navel orange tree in our yard. How often should we fertilze it and when? Thanks in advance for your help. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 12 21:25:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:25:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fertilizing Citrus Message-ID: Do not fertilize newly planted citrus trees until they have been in the ground a year, then apply three tablespoons of fertilizer three times a year, Feb., April, and July. The second year the amount can be increased. U. of A. Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix,85040 has an excellent bulletin on citrus care in the home garden avaiable for $1.00. God luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon Feb 12 21:45:38 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:45:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sloped basins? Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010212144233.00a187c0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Has anyone used sloped square basins, where the flat bottom surface slopes down from ground level at one end to below ground at the other? The plants are grown in the lower 1/8 of the basin, which is filled with good soil. From jimbo1953@aol.com Mon Feb 12 22:16:00 2001 From: jimbo1953@aol.com (jimbo1953@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:16:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102122216.PAA02854@Ag.Arizona.Edu> my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Feb 12 22:49:22 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:49:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bacterial Necrosis of Saguaro References: <200102122216.PAA02854@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A886872.9382D8C6@qwest.net> It sounds like your Saguaro may have bacterial necrosis. I'd like to refer you to an on-line information sheet about it at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener jimbo1953@aol.com wrote: > my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 15:32:26 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 08:32:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Necrosis References: <200102122216.PAA02854@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A89538A.83509581@qwest.net> Check out the following page on our website and see if this doesn't fit what's happening with your saguaro. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Management is discussed there, too. Act quickly to contain this bacterial problem. Linda Guy Master Gardener jimbo1953@aol.com wrote: > my 20 foot saguaro has developed a spot of rotting that is oozing black goo. what can i do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 19:41:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:41:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Stem End Problem References: <200101110141.SAA19119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A898DF9.A7953DF8@qwest.net> Does our website's discussion http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/stem-rot.htm sound like your problem? If so, management is discussed there as well. Linda Guy Master Gardener cram1402@aol.com wrote: > Each year my Valencia orange tree produces fruit that, when peeled, reveals a "pithy" dry portion, found on the stem end of the fruit. I had originally thought that it was frost injury, but the valley hasn't been that cold this year. Could it be that I didn't water it at some critical point in its fruiting stage? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 19:57:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 12:57:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bulbs in Phoenix References: <200101112026.NAA06896@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A899198.BC2C5805@qwest.net> This will be totally dependent upon the bulbs. Ones that do well here are Dutch iris and daffodils, although there are others. Ones that will usually not go more than a year include tulips. Keeping bulbs indoors in a cool, dry place over the summer, if there is nobody home, may be a solution. It would be beneficial to address specific bulb varieties, rather than give you very sketchy or generalized info that may not pertain to those that you have or will be receiving. Linda Guy Master Gardener jesue@c2i2.com wrote: > I recieved a once a month bulb assortment, for six months, preplanted in indoor containers. Once they have bloomed, how to I care for them so I can replant them outside. Can I store them until next fall, as we travel in the summer? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From EMAILATFISHER@aol.com Tue Feb 13 20:04:27 2001 From: EMAILATFISHER@aol.com (EMAILATFISHER@aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:04:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Music Message-ID: --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir I am a student at Manchester Metropolitan Univsity, Crewe, UK. I am studying the effects of rock and classical music on plant growth and would be grateful if you have any information on the subject. I currently have three sets of broad bean growing: one to rock, one to Mozart, and the other to nothing. The results so far are rather interesting. I would be grateful for any comments you may have. Angela Fisher --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Sir

I am a student at Manchester Metropolitan Univsity, Crewe, UK.

I am studying the effects of rock and classical music on plant growth and
would be grateful if you have any information on the subject.

I currently have three sets of broad bean growing: one to rock, one to
Mozart, and the other to nothing. The results so far are rather interesting.

I would be grateful for any comments you may have.


Angela Fisher --part1_f3.772e560.27baed4b_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:04:15 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:04:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Callas References: <200102101909.MAA25464@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A89933E.FCD88391@qwest.net> If I'm not mistaken, calla [zantedeschia] are rhizomes that are recommended to be divided when the flowers start to get very small. Planting time is recommended in Oct/Nov, with a March/April bloom season. They are said to do well in partial of full shade outdoors; the reference material I had indicated that white callas are easiest to grow, although yellow, black and pink ones are available too. Colors tend to need a slightly more acidic soil. They are nearly evergreen in mild winters, but they are deciduous in frost. I highly recommend that you look at the Sunset Western Garden Book for more specific information based on the types of callas you have. Linda Guy Master Gardener susy_1@msn.com wrote: > recently planted mature common white calla lillies in "mini oasis" on E. side of house. when took them out of the pots they were all "root-bound", each plant having 1 flower. live in Cave Creek just N. of scottsdale. they are in a largely shaded area & have survived the transplanting well. have never grown them before & will appreciate any info. you have about growing in our climate. when the flowers wilt should we cut them? how often should we feed? what months will they grow? when they die off do we cut them down to ground level? thank-you for anything you know about this. susan > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:09:28 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:09:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Veggie Planting Times References: <200101241802.LAA17832@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A899478.DBCEF056@qwest.net> Onions/garlic/leeks are cool season crops that are generally planted in October. Tomatos, on the other hand, are warm season vegetables that can be planted as early as February with frost protection such as wall'o'waters or cloches. A general rule on what grows when: Cool season crops are roots, leaves, flowers or their buds; warm season vegetables are those that yield fruits. Check out our online publication for vegetable planting times at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener ahamilton@qwest.net wrote: > when is it time to plant onions and tomatoes. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:20:00 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:20:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Conditions for Giant Bird of Paradise, Banana References: <200101291722.KAA12607@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A8996F0.C7A5B3E4@qwest.net> Giant bird of paradis [Strelitzia nicolai] prefer the type of lighting you've described. The Sunset Western Garden Book suggests that young plants be well fertilized to reach their full dramatic size, then stop feeding. The objective is to acquire and maintain size without growing too much that you need to dig it out and divide it. Keep dead leaves cut as well as excessive growth. Bananas [ensete] are large palm-like perennials that will die back in a cooler winter here. I think they prefer partial shade. Bananas [musa] are said to like full sun, though placement and care varies by species. Check out the AZ Chapter of the Cal. Rare Fruit Club at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm They might have more information on bananas. Linda Guy Master Gardener jimlisag@earthlink.net wrote: > will a giant bird of paradise, or banana plant grow in dirrect morning sunlight, and afternoon filtered light? > > Thanks! > Jim and Lisa > > P.S. We are looking for a tropical look w/o using palms behind our pools waterfall. We already have giant bamboo, and would like to add another large leafed plant. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:22:38 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:22:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost References: <200101312023.NAA04938@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A89978E.A7B68CDE@qwest.net> I don't know the answer but would like to provide you with some links http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm You could also contact the city sanitation departments that distribute recycled trash barrels to households for compost purposes. They no doubt have some statistics. I know that Phoenix has such a program. Linda Guy Master Gardener azwildbd@primenet.com wrote: > For an average household, annually - When a household composts, how much space or how much weight is saved by not going to the landfill? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:27:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:27:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree Selection References: <200102010003.RAA28365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A8998A2.AC6288CA@qwest.net> The number of trees you place depends on the volume of shade you prefer and the size of the trees. You need also to consider the proximity of power lines, sidewalks or walls whose foundations might be impacted by roots, the amount of water you are prepared to use, and whether you want decidous trees to allow in winter sun. You can get started in our publications listing http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm which has sections on citrus, desert adapted plants and ornamentals. There are links that discuss plants in the low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants.htm The best thing for you to do is to visit a botanical garden and look at trees that you like that are established, so that you can see size and shape. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm#adventures Linda Guy Master Gardener pauljnestor@yahoo.com wrote: > I live in Phoenix and my yard is aprox 20' by 45'. I am trying to decide on what trees to put in our yard. We would like a couple of cirus tees and maybe a eucalyptus. How can I find out if you can combine some trees with others? Also how many tree can I fit into our yard considering the size? > Thank you for you time and advise. > Paul > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:32:28 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:32:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus Gnats References: <200102011841.LAA16572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A8999DC.F46F39B1@qwest.net> Most of us have some homemade recipe to handle fungus gnats. A single drench is usually not enough...you may drown the larvae but there might still be adults around to lay more eggs. If push comes to shove, you may need to toss all the soil and start afresh. Here's a response we once posted from MG Pauline Marx: Fungus gnats can be eliminated with a soil drench of: 1 quart warm water 2 Tablespoons commercial insecticidal soap Drench the soil without wetting the foliage This can be done once a month until you no longer have the problem Another mixture is 1 quart warm water 1 teaspoon liquid household bleach I personally have also used a purchased product from an organic supply catalog with some success. Our own website discusses the problem at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/gnats.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener kelly.ryan1@home.com wrote: > What should I do about soil gnats? I had them in just one potted plant in my home which was exposed to partial diffused sunlight, now they have expanded into most of my potted plants. What should I do to discourage their survival? Will my plants, which are now grasping to life, survive? Thank you very much. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 13 20:36:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 13:36:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Excess Grapefruit References: <200102071614.JAA06634@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A899AD7.CBE69465@qwest.net> I thought that most of the food banks had volunteer gleaning crews. I've often seen them at work in the yards of my Arcadia neighborhood. I think there's a central function that handles all food banks. How about phoning the Arizona Association for Food Banks to see what they offer? Linda Guy Master Gardener djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net wrote: > I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to diminish the fruit production. > thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From boneyjjd@aol.com Tue Feb 13 22:37:39 2001 From: boneyjjd@aol.com (boneyjjd@aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:37:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102132237.PAA18259@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When is the best time to prune a Texas sage shrub? From kcountryman@sprintmail.com Tue Feb 13 22:43:59 2001 From: kcountryman@sprintmail.com (kcountryman@sprintmail.com) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:43:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102132243.PAA20124@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Now that my kids are grown I want to convert our grass yard to desert landscape. What's the best and safest way to kill off the bermuda grass? From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Feb 13 22:45:08 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 15:45:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] more space between plants in arid climates? Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010213154143.00c2c9e0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Is the intensive planting spacing suitable to the desert? If you're trying to maximize your use of natural rainwater, you'd want to minimize your plants per sf (since other plants compete for water). No? But if you want to maximize your use of supplementary irrigation, then you'd want to maximize your plants per sf. So one is led in both directions..... jk From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 00:11:52 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:11:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Texas Rangers References: <200102132237.PAA18259@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A89CD48.A176D05A@qwest.net> I pruned my various leucophyllums in the last few weeks. Johnson's 'Pruning Planting & Care' in the plants for the aris west series says that January to February are the best times. Linda Guy Master Gardener boneyjjd@aol.com wrote: > When is the best time to prune a Texas sage shrub? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 00:18:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 17:18:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Intensive Gardening References: <4.2.2.20010213154143.00c2c9e0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3A89CED7.44888C8C@qwest.net> This is an excellent strategy, and I have used it as recently as this cool season, for annual vegetables. I'm not sure how to further respond, because I'm not sure what type of planting you are considering....landscape, flower borders, herb beds, etc. In general close proximity of plants lends to a slight increase in local humidity and makes it easier to apply water in a flood irrigation type of manner. But I have often witnessed in landscapes that people put in plants much too closely together for their eventual growth habit, with the result that massive pruning is required to keep everything in scale. Hope this answers your question. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Is the intensive planting spacing suitable to the desert? If you're trying > to maximize your use of natural rainwater, you'd want to minimize your > plants per sf (since other plants compete for water). No? But if you want > to maximize your use of supplementary irrigation, then you'd want to > maximize your plants per sf. So one is led in both directions..... > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Wed Feb 14 03:44:20 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 20:44:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Shrubs Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two years from little one-gallon plants. The one yellow bells (with orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is shorter but very bushy. The bottlebrushes are also full and getting quite tall. I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer). I'd like to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron out of the soil with all the watering. So I plugged the dripper lines last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering. I can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies to me. Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right thing? I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the bushes die. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
One of you folks = recently had=20 commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and = cutting back=20 on watering will retard growth without killing them.  =
 
I have some Arizona = Yellow=20 Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown = enormously=20 in two years from little one-gallon plants.  The one yellow bells = (with=20 orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow = flowers) is=20 shorter but very bushy.  The bottlebrushes are also full=20 and getting quite tall.   I have dripper lines and water = them at=20 varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer).  = I'd like=20 to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to = iron=20 deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron = out of the=20 soil with all the watering.  So I plugged the dripper lines last = weekend=20 thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants = instead=20 of giving them this regular watering.
 
I can't find that = commentary=20 that was posted but think that it applies to me.  Can someone = resend it or=20 let me know if I did the right thing?  I don't want to find out = that this=20 was a mistake and have the bushes die. 
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C095FD.BDB20940-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 13:59:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 06:59:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale References: <200101081839.LAA24404@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A8A8F5B.DD040C53@qwest.net> In September of last year, a gentleman wrote to the AZ Republic from Scottsdale with advice he had received from Harper's Nursery regarding the treatment of pearl scale. He indicated that the combined use of an insecticide called Merit [I think it's registered for grub treatment, but not yet for pearl scale] helped manage the population. He also regularly applied water-degradable soil sulfur from May through July. By lowering the soil pH, the scale's habitat less hospitable since it prefers alkalinity. It wasn't purported to do the job completely, but rather kept the pearl scale under some semblance of control or at least from spreading. Many people simply try to remove the infected site to prevent spreading. Perhaps a combination of all of these will produce good results for you. Our website's comments on pearl scale can be found at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/pearl-sc.htm but it has limited recommendations. We also have a publication on the topic, MC 45, which you can order by going to the pubs list on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#lawn Sometimes your local library will have a notebook with our pubs in the reference section [noncirculating], call code 635. I have not fought the good fight personally, so I cannot attest to the efficacy of these strategies. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener mplatt@doitnow.com wrote: > We recently detected pearlscale in our grass > on our residential lot. We removed the pearlscale > as directed by the company (Western Sod) that > we bought the sod from. This was done by physically > removing the soil with pearlscale and refilling with > new soil. > > However, we met a neighbor on one of our walks who > told us that it can also be treated with muriatic > acid. Do you know if that is the case and what would > we mix the muriatic acid with to treat the sod? > > Thanks for your help. Look forward to your > response. > > Mary Platt > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 14 14:39:20 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:39:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What does damp-off look like? References: <200101081839.LAA24404@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A8A8F5B.DD040C53@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3A8A9898.344B29D6@AuroraNow.org> I have some seedlings and cutting that look like someone had a pillow fight on them. Instead of just 'fuzz' (which I'm assuming is just mildew?) it looks like little white downy feathers on the soil. I used sterile medium. Is this damp-off? If so, what can/should I do? If I let the soil dry out completely won't my seedlings/cuttings die? I've done cuttings before and have never had this come up. Is this unique to the desert? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Feb 14 14:41:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 07:41:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off References: <200101081839.LAA24404@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A8A8F5B.DD040C53@qwest.net> <3A8A9898.344B29D6@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3A8A9904.5A498EEC@qwest.net> We discuss damping-off, including management strategies, at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/damp-off.htm [For future reference, you can find a lot of information in our website. In this case, if you use the index function on our home page, you would have seen damping off in the 'D' section.] Since I am on the arid gardener list server, there is no need to separately copy me on your requests! Hope you find this info helpful. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I have some seedlings and cutting that look like someone had a pillow > fight on them. Instead of just 'fuzz' (which I'm assuming is just > mildew?) it looks like little white downy feathers on the soil. I used > sterile medium. Is this damp-off? If so, what can/should I do? If I let > the soil dry out completely won't my seedlings/cuttings die? > > I've done cuttings before and have never had this come up. Is this > unique to the desert? > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KriegeP@juno.com Wed Feb 14 16:28:24 2001 From: KriegeP@juno.com (KriegeP@juno.com) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 09:28:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102141628.JAA01438@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Pruning Shrub Aster: I have a large bush about 5 feet high and 5 feet wide, which I was told was a shrub aster. It was completely covered with the most beautiful blue asters in fall. It is dormant now, and the leaves are brown. When should I prune it and how much should I prune? From punterbrink@uswest.net Thu Feb 15 01:41:51 2001 From: punterbrink@uswest.net (punterbrink@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 18:41:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102150141.SAA24865@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live in Tempe and have 2 mature orange trees (Arizona sweet and Valencia). These trees are probably more than 20 years old. About the middle of January they started dropping leaves. Then on day in the morning the ground was covered with oranges. The tree was producing a beautiful crop but the fruit has been dropping off. The AZ sweet has almost no leaves left. We water and fertilize regularly. What could have caused this? Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thank you From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Thu Feb 15 02:25:00 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 19:25:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102150225.TAA01087@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How does the frost tollerance of a lisbon lemmon (standard) compare with that of a Red Grapefruit(standard). I have had success with grapefruit and my neighbor has several oranges and tangerines, but neither of us has a lemmom. I live in a cooler area of Tucson (near a wash). Also, what is the maximum width of such a lemmom tree and what about growth rate. Chow......Max From schneider_4871@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 06:02:42 2001 From: schneider_4871@email.msn.com (schneider_4871@email.msn.com) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:02:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102150602.XAA05280@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Rose disease. I have some roses that are suffering the following characteristics: Leaf yellows, wilts and dies, Canes start dying back from cut ends. Stem turns brown, shrivels and then black. Growing tips of stems die. Lack of vigor. I suspect some sort of fungal diseas. This usually only happens to roses I recieve from an Northern California nursery. From schneider_4871@email.msn.com Thu Feb 15 06:07:15 2001 From: schneider_4871@email.msn.com (schneider_4871@email.msn.com) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 23:07:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102150607.XAA05574@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Saguaro problem: The top of the saguaro appears to be dead. Black. It appears limited to only the growing tip. It has also had a spot of rot that I promptly cut out and seems to have healed. It had 3/4 flowers last summer. Is it in trouble? Anything I can do? What resources books/people can I turn to? From pamela@u.arizona.edu Thu Feb 15 21:07:25 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 14:07:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune References: <200102150602.XAA05280@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <001001c09793$50f82400$0f02000a@computer> I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:41:35 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:41:35 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering large trees Message-ID: <11.fddd3b9.27bdc32f@aol.com> Hi, I have two Aleppo pines - one has a 25' diameter canopy and the other has a 35' diameter canopy. My question is do I have to water them from the trunk (near it) all the way out to the drip line, or can I just water them at the drip line? The reason I ask is because it would take hundreds and hundreds of gallons to water the entire root zone at least 3' deep and I really couldn't afford it. What I would like to do is to lay some soaker hose around the drip line and just water it out there. Also, I have a huge eucalyptus tree with an awkward canopy. The drip line is about 22' from the trunk on one side and only 10' on the other side. Do I need to water it around the drip line or evenly around the trunk? Please let me know what you think I should do. Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:44:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:44:48 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lemons ,frost tender Message-ID: Lemons are more frost tender than grapefruit and would not be recommended for the cooler areas around Tucson. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 15 23:44:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 18:44:47 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rose Disease, blackened canes Message-ID: <58.73ec1e0.27bdc3ef@aol.com> The symptoms you describe also came from another person and my answer is below. I think that if all the roses that have the symptoms you describe came from one nursery I would not buy from them again. The blackened canes that you describe could be caused by a canker fungus. When the blackened cane starts near the ground the fungus gains access to the cane through an injury to the cane. When the blackening of the cane starts at the tip of the cane, the cause again could be from dead heading or an insect injury. When I notice a blackened cane starting at the tip of the cane I find a bud that is two or three inches below the blackened area and cut back to that spot. When the blackened area is at the base of the cane the only thing that can be done is to remove the cane before the fungus spreads to the whole bush. Be sure to spray the bush with a fungicide and sterilize your pruners after making a cut. I find that when my rose bushes get to be 8 to 10 years old they start to decline. Sometimes severe pruning or transplanting to a new location will help. I find that a 3 to 4 inch organic mulch around the bushes not only helps to insulate from the summer heat and cuts down on moisture loss but as the organic material breaks down it adds humus to the soil. In addition I use an organic fertilizer such as Hickmans Rose food once a year as well as alfalfa meal. For help in growing the best roses why not join one of the five rose societies in the Phoenix area. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian _______________________________________________ From ursula@goodnet.com Fri Feb 16 02:11:49 2001 From: ursula@goodnet.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 19:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune In-Reply-To: <001001c09793$50f82400$0f02000a@computer> Message-ID: Mine got leggy, too, and pruning helped fill it out until the rabbits started eating it. One of my books says that pruning should be done in late spring and to avoid pruning in hot weather. Severe pruning inhibits flowering so don't prune more than 20% at a time. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Pamela Tremain Koch Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 2:07 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] fairy duster--to prune or not to prune I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From redibird@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 03:05:43 2001 From: redibird@yahoo.com (redibird@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:05:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102160305.UAA08798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. From goodingpn@cs.com Fri Feb 16 03:13:59 2001 From: goodingpn@cs.com (goodingpn@cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2001 20:13:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102160313.UAA09553@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 19:10:03 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 11:10:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering large trees In-Reply-To: <11.fddd3b9.27bdc32f@aol.com> Message-ID: <20010216191003.28186.qmail@web311.mail.yahoo.com> Best to water the last5-10 feet to the dripline and out past the dripline about 5 feet or so. This is the area most if the roots that take up water are locatedfor all plants. Continue to water deep (3-4 feet). --- Krulich@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I have two Aleppo pines - one has a 25' diameter > canopy and the other has a > 35' diameter canopy. > > My question is do I have to water them from the > trunk (near it) all the way > out to the drip line, or can I just water them at > the drip line? The reason > I ask is because it would take hundreds and hundreds > of gallons to water the > entire root zone at least 3' deep and I really > couldn't afford it. > > What I would like to do is to lay some soaker hose > around the drip line and > just water it out there. > > Also, I have a huge eucalyptus tree with an awkward > canopy. The drip line is > about 22' from the trunk on one side and only 10' on > the other side. Do I > need to water it around the drip line or evenly > around the trunk? > > Please let me know what you think I should do. > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From jennylynn85220@yahoo.com Fri Feb 16 21:58:21 2001 From: jennylynn85220@yahoo.com (jennylynn85220@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 14:58:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102162158.OAA07493@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Do you know where I can get a calender of vegetables that grow in my area (Apache Junction AZ)and when the best time to plant them? From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Fri Feb 16 23:32:34 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 16:32:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with In-Reply-To: <200102160305.UAA08798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010216162751.00c47e90@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 08:05 PM 2/15/01 -0700, you wrote: >I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to >fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. I know some people use commercial soil, or even pure humus. But it's much cheaper to use native soil mixed with compost and amendments. 128 cf of bought soil will cost you some! If you mix in 6" of compost into the top 2 feet, you'd require 16 cf--not too bad. Where do you live and what's the native soil like? jk From pamela@u.arizona.edu Sat Feb 17 00:09:15 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 17:09:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] transplanting cat's claw Message-ID: <006201c0987a$7a042d20$0f02000a@computer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable We have some cat's claw and are thinking of moving them--does anyone = know if these vines transplant well? Thanks, Pamela ------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
We have some cat's claw and are = thinking  of=20 moving them--does anyone know if these vines transplant = well?
 
Thanks,
Pamela
------=_NextPart_000_005F_01C0983B.31024A60-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Feb 17 02:20:02 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 19:20:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Vegetable Planting Calendar References: <200102162158.OAA07493@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <000a01c09888$250913e0$f820480c@j0r9501> There is a planting schedule for Maricopa County's low desert at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > Do you know where I can get a calender of vegetables that grow in my area (Apache Junction AZ)and when the best time to plant them? From ursula@goodnet.com Sat Feb 17 01:48:27 2001 From: ursula@goodnet.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 16 Feb 2001 18:48:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Gravel Around Plants In-Reply-To: <200102160313.UAA09553@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I have the same problem with some of my gravel, too, and will be curious to see the response. I have wondered if it's a chemical reaction to Ironite or some other plant food. It's always around a plant - nowhere else. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of goodingpn@cs.com Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 8:14 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From shardie@azstarnet.com Sat Feb 17 17:32:04 2001 From: shardie@azstarnet.com (shardie@azstarnet.com) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 10:32:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102171732.KAA16399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am trying to identify a bush growing in my neighborhood. I have posted pictures of the bush at: http://www.found-pets.org/adt/plant/acacia.html It appears to be a variety of acacia. I would like to purchase a bush if it is available commercially. If it is not, I would appreciate knowing what I should do to try to grow one from seed. Thanks for your help. Sidney in Tucson From PlantPerson@Prodigy.net Sat Feb 17 17:45:29 2001 From: PlantPerson@Prodigy.net (PlantPerson@Prodigy.net) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 10:45:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102171745.KAA17699@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What are the watering requirements of indigenous desert plants which have been boxed in order to be saved and then replanted in the desert landscape? How often must they be watered once they are replanted and how much water do they need right after relocation and in the following years? From gocha@aol.com Sat Feb 17 20:52:28 2001 From: gocha@aol.com (gocha@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 13:52:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102172052.NAA09201@Ag.Arizona.Edu> do i need to do anything special to plant citrus tree? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 17 22:08:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 17:08:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Desert trees, watering Message-ID: Once a desert tree is established ( at least one year ) it can exist on very little water, however they will look better if deep watered periodically. For the first year I would suggest watering weekly. Check out this site on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Feb 17 22:15:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 17:15:18 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus trees, Planting Message-ID: <77.10599369.27c051f6@aol.com> The Master Gardener Manual has an excellent chapter on tree care which includes planting at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu Sat Feb 17 22:21:45 2001 From: d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu (d.terasaki@gcmail.maricopa.edu) Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 15:21:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102172221.PAA19501@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a huge Allepo Pine in our backyard. We've noticed lately a couple of large dead branches high in the tree, although some look broken. Does it need feeding? We live off of 7 St. and Glendale Ave. in Phoenix. We believe the soil is good. What can we do to keep this tree healthy? We really like the tree and want it to live as long as possible. It was probably planted in the late 50's. What is the normal life span for an aleppo? We had it trimmed about 4 years ago. If we build a addition to the house, how far away from the trunk of the tree should any foundation be? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Feb 18 19:49:15 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:49:15 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Alleppo Pine has dead limbs Message-ID: The best thing you can do to keep an old tree healthy is to deep water it periodically and by doing this they will live a long time. Pines do not do well with air polution, we've had questions from people whose property backs up to the Superstition Freeway whose pines are dying and the only answer we can give them is the problem is air polution. As for your new construction, any time the roots of a tree are cut the tree will go into shock. Whether or not the tree lives will depend on the tree's health at the time that the roots are cut and how many of the roots are cut. The roots of the pine probably extend out 1 1/2 to 2 times the diameter of the drip line. I would guess that the pine would survive if the new construction did not come closer thsn the drip line of the tree provided the tree is healthy. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Mon Feb 19 13:14:52 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 06:14:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Gravel Around Plants Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi - I went to askme.com and posed this question because I'm not really sure that this is a plant question, per se for the Ag people. Here is my first response from askme.com swwelsh gave this response on 2/18/2001: It sounds like some sort of mold or fungus. It occurs near the plants because the plants get water and provide shade, and its hard to wash off because the rocks are porous and the black stuff gets into them. Spraying the rocks with a fungicide might help, but the fungus or whatever it is may be in the soil. You could try putting some landscape fabric under the gravel near the plants - that would help the gravel dry out and keep soil fungii from spreading Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi - I went to = askme.com and=20 posed this question because I'm not really sure that this is a plant = question,=20 per se for the Ag people.  Here is my first response from=20 askme.com
 
swwelsh = gave this=20 response on 2/18/2001:
It sounds like some = sort of=20 mold or fungus. It occurs near the plants because the plants get water = and=20 provide shade, and its hard to wash off because the rocks are porous and = the=20 black stuff gets into them. Spraying the rocks with a fungicide might = help, but=20 the fungus or whatever it is may be in the soil. You could try putting = some=20 landscape fabric under the gravel near the plants - that would help the = gravel=20 dry out and keep soil fungii from spreading
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C09A3B.45D04940-- From James.Wawrzynek@Honeywell.com Mon Feb 19 16:52:54 2001 From: James.Wawrzynek@Honeywell.com (Wawrzynek, James) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:52:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with Message-ID: <9BF349787E7FD411A2DC00508B0875C85A44DB@TMPEX180> Where do you find good clean native soil for raised bed vegetable gardening? I called a numerous suppliers but all they sell is fill dirt that could be contaminated with Bermuda. Also, how deep must the raised beds be to grow vegetables? I was going to make mine 3' deep and fill the bottom half with gravel and rocks (to keep out invasive roots) giving me 18 inches of soil on top for planting. Thanks, James -----Original Message----- From: Jonathan Kandell [mailto:jkandell@email.arizona.edu] Sent: Friday, February 16, 2001 4:33 PM To: redibird@yahoo.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with At 08:05 PM 2/15/01 -0700, you wrote: >I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to >fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. I know some people use commercial soil, or even pure humus. But it's much cheaper to use native soil mixed with compost and amendments. 128 cf of bought soil will cost you some! If you mix in 6" of compost into the top 2 feet, you'd require 16 cf--not too bad. Where do you live and what's the native soil like? jk _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From trgolf@webtv.net Mon Feb 19 17:34:51 2001 From: trgolf@webtv.net (trgolf@webtv.net) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:34:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102191734.KAA12443@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How long can citrus remain on the tree? From www.winesaver@home.com Mon Feb 19 21:30:54 2001 From: www.winesaver@home.com (www.winesaver@home.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 14:30:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102192130.OAA04047@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Why are my tomatoes leaves curled and purple on the underside. From umiller@azdps.com Mon Feb 19 22:01:31 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 15:01:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] More on black gravel around plants Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Well, now we can put a name to it - tattooing. Here is another answer from askme.com. There was an assumption that it's the driveway that is the problem, but that's neither here nor there. This staining is called tatooing. The stones are picking up the black (dye) from plant and compost material in the soil. I would suggest that your pink stone has been treated to accept coloring. I would like to suggest that you could try to remedy your situation by putting some garden-hard-plastic border between the stones and your plants. It comes in 25 ft lengths and can be pushed into the soil to create a good border to hold back water and rain wash from the plants flowing onto the driveway. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Well, now we can = put a name to=20 it - tattooing.  Here is another answer from askme.com.  There = was an=20 assumption that it's the driveway that is the problem, but that's = neither here=20 nor there.
 
This staining is = called=20 tatooing. The stones are picking up the black (dye) from plant and = compost=20 material in the soil.
I would suggest that your pink stone has been = treated=20 to accept coloring.

I would like to suggest that you could try to = remedy=20 your situation by putting some garden-hard-plastic border between the = stones and=20 your plants. It comes in 25 ft lengths and can be pushed into the soil = to create=20 a good border to hold back water and rain wash from the plants flowing = onto the=20 driveway.

Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01C09A84.D82A8640-- From Krulich@aol.com Mon Feb 19 22:48:21 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:48:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Apricot Trees Message-ID: I have an apricot tree that is approximately 6 years old. It's never produced well and I would like to fertilize it this year. When is the best time to fertilize it and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I have a bag of ammonium sulfate that I was planning on using. Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Feb 19 22:56:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 17:56:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, How long can they be left on the tree Message-ID: I have left citrus on the tree until May, the longer they stay on the tree the sweeter they get up to a point. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From myerscamie@compuserve.com Mon Feb 19 23:21:03 2001 From: myerscamie@compuserve.com (myerscamie@compuserve.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:21:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102192321.QAA26886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When I am mowing my yard full of weeds is it nessasary to bag them to keep them from multiplying? Tumble weeds and other flowering weeds. From joan@dryaz.com Mon Feb 19 23:48:48 2001 From: joan@dryaz.com (joan@dryaz.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:48:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102192348.QAA01051@Ag.Arizona.Edu> soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? thanks! From joan@dryaz.com Mon Feb 19 23:49:35 2001 From: joan@dryaz.com (joan@dryaz.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 16:49:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102192349.QAA01246@Ag.Arizona.Edu> soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? thanks! sincerely, joan yagoda From ZTV@earthlink.net Tue Feb 20 01:32:18 2001 From: ZTV@earthlink.net (ZTV@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:32:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102200132.SAA20683@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I have just finished an extensive remodeling of my small Phoenix, Arizona backyard. It is not until all the construction and excavation was done that I realized I have no firm idea what vegetation to use. Maybe you could make some suggestions… There is an existing row of Boganvias spaced about six feet apart against a block wall that I plan to extend with three more of these plants. What other type of foliage would you suggest that I plant in between them? My goal is to have a rather lush desert look for this section (without cactus plants because of visiting children). I also have two planters with about 15 square feet of usable surface area on the opposite side of the yard. This area is greener looking with a large shade tree and grass. Any suggestions for year around plants in these planters? I am a tormented do-it-yourselfer who can do almost anything, yet usually knows little about how to accomplish such tasks until I am in the middle of them. I want to be more informed this time. So, help me choose the paint to fill the pallet! Be cool, Z-Man From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 02:06:26 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 19:06:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Warm Season Herbs References: <200102192349.QAA01246@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A91D122.14E31550@qwest.net> I'd like to direct you to our archives and a reply to a past question regarding cool season and warm season herbs. You can view this response by fellow Master Gardener Linda Guy at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-October/005635.html We also have two publications available on growing herbs here in the low desert. You can order them from the Cooperative Extension service by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm scroll down to the heading Vegetables and you will find the two publications, MC69 entitled "Herbs" and Q140 entitled "Growing Your Own Savory Herbs". Many of the library branches in Maricopa County also have a binder in General Reference that contains these publications and you can make photo copies of them. Good Luck, Sue Bass Master Gardener joan@dryaz.com wrote: > soon i would like to plant herbs that will do well in the coming warmer months. what herbs do you suggest i plant? > > thanks! > sincerely, joan yagoda > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Skimojo@aol.com Tue Feb 20 03:42:47 2001 From: Skimojo@aol.com (Skimojo@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 20:42:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102200342.UAA09118@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When is the best time of year to graft citrus tree's. Thank you from Mesa, Az. From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 04:34:25 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 21:34:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting Citrus References: <200102200342.UAA09118@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A91F3D1.83114E26@qwest.net> You can view a publication on-line on the subject of budding (grafting) citrus. Just go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf Budding is done in the spring or the fall. The publication will give you very information. Sue Bass Master Gardener Skimojo@aol.com wrote: > When is the best time of year to graft citrus tree's. Thank you from Mesa, Az. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 14:31:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:31:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Raised bed soil References: <200102160305.UAA08798@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A927FD6.6AD1239B@qwest.net> As a follow up to JK's excellent response, I have also added up to a third by volume of 3/8" minus gravel [1/3 third composted manure and 1/3 desert soil] for those beds where I put Mediterranean herbs that detest sitting in water. I learned this from an MG oldtimer whose specialty was herbs. This has helped with drainage and with keeping their 'feet' dry. This was a large enough bed that I was dealing with small truckloads of each component. The only time I actually purchased a truckload of good topsoil was years ago when I started my veggie patch [10 x 30]. We had actually dug out the top 10" of common bermuda and soil, because I didn't want any chance that residual bermuda would remain. But this was simply a matter of personal preference; working with native soils and amendments is usually a good route to go. Linda Guy Master Gardener redibird@yahoo.com wrote: > I have built some 8' x 4' raised beds (4') deep and need to know what to fill them with in order to grow vegatables and flowers. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 14:34:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:34:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fungus References: <200102160313.UAA09553@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A92808D.CACEC2A6@qwest.net> I too think that this is a fungus that is native to the soil/area. We did have a very wet autumn going into a cooler winter that we've had in recent years. Rather than fungicide, I will often try to trim the lowest branches of the plant to provide air, light, heat to the area. This would be a challenge with ground covers, I admit. Linda Guy Master Gardener goodingpn@cs.com wrote: > i have rock surrounding my verbena. the rock has turned a sooty black.I hosed it down but it came back. what is this and should it be treated? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:06:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:06:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscaping Backyard References: <200102200132.SAA20683@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A9287F7.87A7E9C4@qwest.net> Dear Fellow Tormented: Oh does THAT ever sound familiar. My husband and I can always manage to get just about anything done [his favorite expression is "the impossible just takes a little longer"] but I always agonize over the perfect plants and their placements. Luckily, I am becoming increasingly comfortable with the portability of even my inground plants, trying them out in a number of places over the years. My yards are always works in process and never completed canvases. There are terrific booklets put out by AMWUA, including and absolutely stunning new piece called Xeriscape. Check them out for lots of ideas.... http://www.amwua.org/ Most of the older ones are in the nurseries. I received the new one unsolicited in the mail, probably because I am a Master Gardener. I don't know if it too will be in the nurseries, but the city water departments usuallyd distribute them too. Linda Guy Master Gardener ZTV@earthlink.net wrote: > Hello, > I have just finished an extensive remodeling of my small Phoenix, Arizona backyard. It is not until all the construction and excavation was done that I realized I have no firm idea what vegetation to use. Maybe you could make some suggestions… > > There is an existing row of Boganvias spaced about six feet apart against a block wall that I plan to extend with three more of these plants. What other type of foliage would you suggest that I plant in between them? My goal is to have a rather lush desert look for this section (without cactus plants because of visiting children). I also have two planters with about 15 square feet of usable surface area on the opposite side of the yard. This area is greener looking with a large shade tree and grass. Any suggestions for year around plants in these planters? > > I am a tormented do-it-yourselfer who can do almost anything, yet usually knows little about how to accomplish such tasks until I am in the middle of them. I want to be more informed this time. So, help me choose the paint to fill the pallet! > > Be cool, > Z-Man > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:13:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:13:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed Control References: <200102192321.QAA26886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A9289B1.5A5D50E7@qwest.net> If you use your mower's bag and dispose of the clippings, you will be minimizing the spread of weed seeds in your yard. Keeping them cut BEFORE they begin to flower and set seed is a better strategy. If these are cool season annual weeds, you may not see another cycle until next fall when the temps come down and the cool season begins again. If these are in fact annual weeds you might consider applying a preemergent next fall to minimize seed germination. We have several pubs on weed control; instructions on ordering them are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener myerscamie@compuserve.com wrote: > When I am mowing my yard full of weeds is it nessasary to bag them to keep them from multiplying? Tumble weeds and other flowering weeds. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:20:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:20:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizing Apricot Trees References: Message-ID: <3A928B2B.D0CCE9FF@qwest.net> Sometimes the problem is that you have a single tree of a variety that requires cross pollination [ie is not self-fruitful]. Another problem could be that you planted a tree that requires more winter chill hours than you currently experience in your locale. Here's some reading material for you: Our pubs list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm has a section on Fruits and Nuts. Check out MC 90 in particular to determine the fruiting characteristics of your particular apricot. For care practices, see the relevant chapter of the online MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Best of luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > I have an apricot tree that is approximately 6 years old. It's never > produced well and I would like to fertilize it this year. When is the best > time to fertilize it and what kind of fertilizer should I use? I have a bag > of ammonium sulfate that I was planning on using. > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:27:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:27:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Warren Pears References: <200102090159.SAA14853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A928CDC.D6EF86EC@qwest.net> I'm not sure what to recommend, except that this type is not considered suitable for the low desert environment. Check out MC90 on Fruit and Nut Varieties for our locale from our pubs list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Someone at the AZ Chapter of the California Rare Fruit club might have some ideas. They are listed in our garden club list at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener stognermd@netdoor.com wrote: > i want to buy a Warren pear tree. Know where I can find that particular type? > thanks. steve > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:34:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:34:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes References: <200102091712.KAA29324@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A928E6A.D64B0FA0@qwest.net> Now's the time to be a-plantin' tomatoes and the February newsletter of eLandscape had a wonderful piece on the subject. http://www.elandscape.com/ This was written by Mary Irish, who used to be at the helm of Public Horticulture at the DBG. Large fruiting tomatoes don't generally do well here. For containers, a determinate variety [fixed length] is best. After bearing once, they don't bear much more fruit. Indetermnate vines usually take a bit longer to bear the first crop, but keep setting fruit as long as temps are in a range where the pollen won't burn. I've had success with Early Girl and Celebrity. Most cherry and pear tomatoes offered at my favorite nursery do fantastically well for me. The latter have been my most prolific. Linda Guy Master Gardener patricbain@aol.com wrote: > Variety of tomato which can be grown in Maricopa county in a container or direct into bed successfully. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:35:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:35:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Frost Temps References: <200102120329.UAA16622@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A928EAF.B65678A7@qwest.net> I don't have an answer, but suggest you check out the weather links on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/weather/weather.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener standingfox@yahoo.com wrote: > Need to know the last frost dates for Cave Creek area of Maricopa County. Deer Park was the closest listing. > > If I do plantings now what do you recommend covering the plants with to prevent frost damage. > > thanks > > Don Gerstenschlager > Cave Creek > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Feb 20 15:47:24 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (cenalmor@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:47:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102201547.IAA05595@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a sweet acacia on my front yard. I don't know how old it is, but it's about 15 ft tall. Last year it bloomed in late January, and this year it hasn't yet, and there's not even a hint of blooming any time soon. Care has been the same in the last couple of years...that is, almost no care at all since it's so well adapted. Has anything different happened with the weather this year that may cause a late bloom? The tree doesn't look unhealthy, it's green. I did notice a lot of leaves dropping in December, but that's about it. I'm just hoping the tree is ok, I don't want to miss out on it's beautiful bloom and scent this year. Thanks, Barbara From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:49:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:49:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Shrubs References: Message-ID: <3A929213.AD822410@qwest.net> --------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This practice is particularly recommended for native trees. Mary Irish has promulgated a practice of flooding native trees a couple times in the summer, emulating the receipt of several monsoon washes in the native environment. This is after the first year of establishment, however. The practice was reinforced by Terry Mikel during my advanced tree training class at MCCE. I simply use the hose, even though my trees had emitters. I've turned off that cycle on my irrigation box. I could, of course, have added emitters and moved them all to follow the canopy of the tree, but I'm lazy and its just as easy for me to pull out the hose with a small sprinkler, leave it on 10-24 hours twice in the summer. Shrubs, however, are another matter. I know I could turn off the stations that water the brittlebush and Texas rangers, but there are other natives on the same lines that look better with a bit more water. Hence my brittlebush are always green in the summer, as opposed to the white/grey leaf typical of limited water in the wild. I don't have specific experience with bottlebrush and yellow bells. Why not experiment to see if you can space out the watering schedule to once every 2-3 weeks? Mine are on such a schedule. [Again, this is after at least one season of establishment.] Ursula Miller wrote: > One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - > that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth > without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush > bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two > years from little one-gallon plants. The one yellow bells (with > orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is > shorter but very bushy. The bottlebrushes are also full and getting > quite tall. I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels > during the year (less in winter, more in summer). I'd like to retard > this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron > deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron > out of the soil with all the watering. So I plugged the dripper lines > last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep > water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering.I > can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies > to me. Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right > thing? I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the > bushes die. Ursula Miller --------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit This practice is particularly recommended for native trees. Mary Irish has promulgated a practice of flooding native trees a couple times in the summer, emulating the receipt of several monsoon washes in the native environment. This is after the first year of establishment, however. The practice was reinforced by Terry Mikel during my advanced tree training class at MCCE.

I simply use the hose, even though my trees had emitters. I've turned off that cycle on my irrigation box. I could, of course, have added emitters and moved them all to follow the canopy of the tree, but I'm lazy and its just as easy for me to pull out the hose with a small sprinkler, leave it on 10-24 hours twice in the summer.

Shrubs, however, are another matter. I know I could turn off the stations that water the brittlebush and Texas rangers, but there are other natives on the same lines that look better with a bit more water. Hence my brittlebush are always green in the summer, as opposed to the white/grey leaf typical of limited water in the wild. I don't have specific experience with bottlebrush and yellow bells. Why not experiment to see if you can space out the watering schedule to once every 2-3 weeks? Mine are on such a schedule. [Again, this is after at least one season of establishment.]

Ursula Miller wrote:

 One of you folks recently had commentary on watering desert plants - that removing drippers and cutting back on watering will retard growth without killing them. I have some Arizona Yellow Bells and Bottlebrush bushes on the side of my house which have grown enormously in two years from little one-gallon plants.  The one yellow bells (with orange flowers) is over 6' tall and the other one (yellow flowers) is shorter but very bushy.  The bottlebrushes are also full and getting quite tall.   I have dripper lines and water them at varying levels during the year (less in winter, more in summer).  I'd like to retard this growth which requires constant pruning and also leads to iron deficiency in the bottlebrushes because I'm probably washing the iron out of the soil with all the watering.  So I plugged the dripper lines last weekend thinking that occasionally I'll just go out and deep water these plants instead of giving them this regular watering.I can't find that commentary that was posted but think that it applies to me.  Can someone resend it or let me know if I did the right thing?  I don't want to find out that this was a mistake and have the bushes die. Ursula Miller 
--------------2584B2911E648ED9999DFFB3-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:50:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:50:55 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off] Message-ID: <3A92925F.54F148AB@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can anyone help Sherryl identify her fungus/mold? --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 73341 invoked by uid 0); 14 Feb 2001 15:04:38 -0000 Received: from mail4.uswest.net (204.147.80.22) by phnxpop2.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Feb 2001 15:04:38 -0000 Received: (qmail 43845 invoked by uid 0); 14 Feb 2001 15:04:37 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO cepheus.azstarnet.com) (169.197.56.195) by mail4.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Feb 2001 15:04:37 -0000 Received: from AuroraNow.org (dialup002ip231.tus.azstarnet.com [169.197.14.231]) by cepheus.azstarnet.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA11906 for ; Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:04:34 -0700 (MST) Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2001 08:37:08 -0700 Message-ID: <3A8AA624.3A0C80BA@AuroraNow.org> From: "Sherryl Stalinski" To: "Linda Guy" X-Sent-via: StarNet http://www.azstarnet.com/ Organization: AuroraNow Foundation X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en]C-CCK-MCD {TLC;RETAIL} (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Damping Off References: <200101081839.LAA24404@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A8A8F5B.DD040C53@qwest.net> <3A8A9898.344B29D6@AuroraNow.org> <3A8A9904.5A498EEC@qwest.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hi Linda, Sorry for the double post earlier, I didn't realize I had clicked on a reply-all. I read that page on damp off at the ag. site before I posted the question, but it didn't answer my question about the downy-feathery looking stuff I'm getting. It doesn't sound like it's damp-off but the page doesn't specify whether damp off 'looks' like anything, only the symptoms. I've already done the suggestions for management, so maybe I'm just getting some harmless mold or mildew from the dampness? Thanks. I get so much useful information from the list and always enjoy benefitting from your expertise. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- --------------7FE9CC179FB60C1DC8765455-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 15:53:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:53:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Excess Grapefruit References: <200102071614.JAA06634@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3A899AD7.CBE69465@qwest.net> <000701c096a1$d5e30560$db7bdd18@srp.gov> Message-ID: <3A9292F9.51C77F6C@qwest.net> What a shame that it all has to go to waste. Can any local church groups take you on as a community service project for the local food banks' behalf? Yes, it is adviseable to remove the fruit that you cannot eat, although most people will let it ripen on the tree through about April [a general rule] since citrus does not ripen after it is picked. What is more important is getting off the ground to avoid rot, disease and insect infestation. Hope this helps. Linda djacksonsprint2 wrote: > I have, they only have volunteers for the West Side Food Bank. The East > Valley told me that they would take them if I would pick, box and deliver > them. I don't mind picking them but to buy the boxes and deliver them is > cost prohibitive for me. I am assuming that it is better for the trees to > remove the fruit????? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Linda Guy > To: > Cc: Arid_gardener > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2001 1:36 PM > Subject: Excess Grapefruit > > > I thought that most of the food banks had volunteer gleaning crews. I've > often seen them at work in the yards of my Arcadia neighborhood. I think > there's a central function that handles all food banks. How about phoning > the Arizona Association for Food Banks to see what they offer? > > > > Linda Guy > > Master Gardener > > > > djacksonsprint2@earthlink.net wrote: > > > > > I have 150 older grapefruit trees. I enjoy the shade and beauty of the > trees but there is only so much grapefruit a person can eat. We can't even > give it away. My questions are 1) will it hurt the trees to just leave the > fruit on and if so 2) is there anything we can spray or feed the trees to > diminish the fruit production. > > > thank you > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Feb 20 16:03:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:03:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Leaf and Fruit Drop References: <200102150141.SAA24865@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A929545.94F095A7@qwest.net> Had you recently fertilized your trees? This sounds to me like a fertilizer burn...too much and inadequately watered into the soil. Linda Guy Master Gardener punterbrink@uswest.net wrote: > We live in Tempe and have 2 mature orange trees (Arizona sweet and Valencia). These trees are probably more than 20 years old. About the middle of January they started dropping leaves. Then on day in the morning the ground was covered with oranges. The tree was producing a beautiful crop but the fruit has been dropping off. The AZ sweet has almost no leaves left. We water and fertilize regularly. > > What could have caused this? Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue Feb 20 16:49:07 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:49:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: raised beds, what to fill with In-Reply-To: <9BF349787E7FD411A2DC00508B0875C85A44DB@TMPEX180> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010220093823.00a82f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 09:52 AM 2/19/01 -0700, you wrote: >Where do you find good clean native soil for raised bed vegetable gardening? >I called a numerous suppliers but all they sell is fill dirt that could be >contaminated with Bermuda. Also, how deep must the raised beds be to grow >vegetables? I was going to make mine 3' deep and fill the bottom half with >gravel and rocks (to keep out invasive roots) giving me 18 inches of soil on >top for planting. Where do you live James? Your soil can't be harder than here in Tucson. By native soil I meant whatever soil I could dig up with a fork and pick underneath the bed. Using multiple swipes, a few inches per day, in my Tucson plot this has varied from a few inches to about a foot. If it's too hard to dig I don't put a garden there. :-) A new bed I'm starting is only going down about a foot, so I am adding about another foot of compost and soil. It helps to flood and dig in a couple days. What I do is dig as much as I can, and then add enough soil for two feet. You could also gather soil from other parts of your yard as well. Or even from neighbors or abandoned areas, if it came to it. (I just found some a few cf of humus mysteriously sitting in a pile in an abandoned lot yesterday.) jk From jbbell310@cs.com Tue Feb 20 22:26:56 2001 From: jbbell310@cs.com (jbbell310@cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 15:26:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102202226.PAA14198@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I had a citrus tree that died last year and took it out. I am planning to plant another tree at the same site and it appears that the soil has poor drainage. I have dug 2 feet deep and wide, when it rains this fills with water and it sits in there for over 2 weeks. Is this caliche? If so how far down should I dig to get past it? Is there anything I can use to soften this or improve the drainage? This area is in our side yard and receives a lot of water from the roof when it rains. I am sure the other tree died because of this poor drainage. Please help. Thanks, B Bell From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Feb 20 23:11:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:11:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus died because of wet feet Message-ID: <9e.1058100a.27c453b7@aol.com> You are correct in assuming that the poor drainage was the cause of the citrus tree dying. If you have caliche it is very difficult to dig through with out power equipment. Renting a jackhammer could be one option. If you were lucky you might be able to drill a hole through the caliche so that the water would drain. The other option would be to find another location. The depth at which you find caliche can vary from one spot to another. If you dig another hole be sure to fill it with water to determine if it will drain in 24 hours, If it won't drain then do not plant. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pamrapier@home.com Tue Feb 20 23:29:17 2001 From: pamrapier@home.com (pamrapier@home.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 16:29:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102202329.QAA28957@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How long can you store vegetable seeds? From scayuga@aol.com Wed Feb 21 05:41:38 2001 From: scayuga@aol.com (scayuga@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:41:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102210541.WAA04490@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in planting several Buddleia (Butterfly Bush). I reside in Fountain Hills, AZ.and am wondering if these have a particular preference for exposure, light conditions. Is there a preferable variety and when should these be planted ? How far from a block/stucco wall should they be planted ? Thanks for your help ? From Scayuga@aol.com Wed Feb 21 05:45:46 2001 From: Scayuga@aol.com (Scayuga@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 22:45:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102210545.WAA04909@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have cut back several Desert Broom bushes and would like to completely eradicate then from my property. Is there anything, short of digging the rootballs up, that I can pour on these 1 ft. stumps to accomplish this ? Thanks From d4sberg@aol.com Wed Feb 21 15:58:59 2001 From: d4sberg@aol.com (d4sberg@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:58:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102211558.IAA05256@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This past year I read something about boric acid for citrus trees. Is there any value in using it? Or is regular feeding enough? From sefair_007@msn.com Wed Feb 21 16:15:25 2001 From: sefair_007@msn.com (sefair_007@msn.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 09:15:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102211615.JAA10062@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Request care of valencia orange tree and a lemon tree. Something I can download, or may I pick up a brochure at 13815 Camino del Sol? Thank you. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Feb 21 18:29:57 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 11:29:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] beans or peppers better suited to raised beds v level plots? In-Reply-To: <200102211615.JAA10062@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010221112230.00c53a30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> I have one plot of deep soil at ground level and another fifteen inch deep raised bed. I was thinking the raised bed would be better suited to peppers and tomatoes than to the beans, since it was warmer and shallower. Thoughts? Does it matter? jk From mgood@txnla.org Wed Feb 21 20:22:50 2001 From: mgood@txnla.org (mgood@txnla.org) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 13:22:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102212022.NAA11526@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have heard that gardens with a water feature can qualify as Xeriscape if they do not contain fountains. Is this true? Marilyn Good, Texas Nursery & Landscape Association From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 21 22:36:05 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:36:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] frost damaged aloe and agaves References: <3A92925F.54F148AB@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3A9442D5.4E37AF6D@AuroraNow.org> First: > Can anyone help Sherryl identify her fungus/mold? Thanks Linda, I've given up on my mold. Whatever it is, it clears up when I let the soil dry out a bit and it doesn't seem to be bothering any of my seedlings. I actually found a tiny mushroom next to a just-emerged beargrass stalk. Go figure. I have an aloe vera and some "mystery" agaves outside that got frost damaged and the outer leaves/pads are brown and shriveled. The insides look fine and there are even new leaves (are they called "leaves"?) coming up so I think they'll be fine, but they look pathetic. After it warms a bit more, can I cut off the damaged outside leaves without harming the plants? Also, I have some seed varieties that just don't seem to want to germinate. P. Spectabilis, desert beardtongue which I had cold stratified and a few others which weren't supposed to need stratifying. It's been over 2 months on some of them with no sign of life yet. At what point do I give up on them? I had 3 out of 3 dozen brittlebush seeds finally germinate a week ago, but nothing new since, and a few of my sotols and beargrass took a good 5-6 weeks to start, so I'm not sure how patient I should be. (on the opposite spectrum, I think I had a 99% germ. rate on soaptree yuccas and have so many I won't know where to put them all. ha) I'm wondering if my trial and error on too dry/too damp just did some of the seeds in? How the heck do some of these things actually make it in the too dry, too wet, too cold outside world?? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From engstromma@aol.com Wed Feb 21 22:11:49 2001 From: engstromma@aol.com (engstromma@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:11:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102212211.PAA08916@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a mature orange tree and a mature grapefruit tree in my back yard. How much fertilizer should I use on them, how often should I apply fertilizer and when? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Feb 21 22:51:13 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 15:51:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] oleander question References: <3A92925F.54F148AB@qwest.net> <3A9442D5.4E37AF6D@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3A944661.CAE54497@AuroraNow.org> One more question... I also have 2 dwarf oleanders planted right after we moved in here last June (I know, bad timing). They actually did fine all summer despite the heat and drought, but now the pink oleander has brown tips on the leaves and the red one the leaves are folded and it just doesn't look happy. I've been watering them about every 2-3 weeks over the winter when there hasn't been rain. Two rose bushes I planted at the same time about 10 feet away against the same eastern wall had blooms until the middle of December and are already starting to get new spring growth. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From valpogrl@aol.com Thu Feb 22 00:42:39 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:42:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102220042.RAA11606@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help! This spring my lawn is totally taken over by weeds. I am an organic gardener...hence I don't use weed and feed, round-up etc. Anyone have any ideas other than hand digging up each weed? Thanks From colecrk@aol.com Thu Feb 22 01:17:38 2001 From: colecrk@aol.com (colecrk@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 18:17:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102220117.SAA16924@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is the best kind of citrus tree to grow in a container in a desert landscape yard with pool lots of sun From cenalmor@yahoo.com Thu Feb 22 01:56:04 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 17:56:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] baja ruelli Message-ID: <20010222015604.25312.qmail@web2306.mail.yahoo.com> I have a pretty large baja ruellia in my backyard, which until this past winter was full and beautiful, and always blooming. Then in the winter it got frost bite, and a lot of the leaves and shoots turned dark purple. I have held on the trimming because I was afraid it would get cold again. Today I thought I'd do it and I saw that most of the leaves are full of holes. I looked everywhere for a bug and can't find one,but there's definitely one somewhere because this plant covers an area of about 8 sq feet and it's about 3 ft tall and there's holes everywhere. Is there a bug that's known for liking this plant? If so, what's the best method to get rid of it? I'd rather not use chemicals if possible. Is it safe to trim the plant a bit so it doesn't look so bad, or should I assume it's too weak to stand it? Thanks, I looked all over the internet and all my master gardener info, but didn't find anything that could help me. Barbara __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 22 03:41:21 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 20:41:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus feeding, etc. In-Reply-To: <200102212211.PAA08916@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: There is a nice article today (2/21) in the Arizona Republic about caring for trees with a month-by-month listing of what needs to be done each month (feeding, etc.) Maybe you can get a copy of it. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of engstromma@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 3:12 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a mature orange tree and a mature grapefruit tree in my back yard. How much fertilizer should I use on them, how often should I apply fertilizer and when? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Feb 22 04:00:16 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 21:00:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia Bush Planting In-Reply-To: <200102210541.WAA04490@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I live in Peoria and have a buddleia davidii black knight against my stucco wall facing east. It gets a lot of sun but also a little dappled shade from a mesquite tree but not all that much. I planted it last summer (1 gallon) so it didn't do much until about early January this year when it started taking off. It is now about 3 feet wide and getting to be 3 feet high - very full and green and still growing! I can't believe how it started growing so suddenly and fast - seems like it shot up overnight. I also had a buddleia globosa (the furry one with the orange balls that looks like something from another planet) that was doing well in the same area until the rabbits ate it. My book says that all buddleia's do well just about everywhere. Most of the ones you see here in the nurseries are the davidii types with the occasional globosa (the one with the orange balls). But you can order different types from High Country Gardens which specializes in plants for western gardens. You can order their catalog at www.highcountrygardens.com Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of scayuga@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 10:42 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in planting several Buddleia (Butterfly Bush). I reside in Fountain Hills, AZ.and am wondering if these have a particular preference for exposure, light conditions. Is there a preferable variety and when should these be planted ? How far from a block/stucco wall should they be planted ? Thanks for your help ? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Krulich@aol.com Thu Feb 22 06:44:39 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 01:44:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus feeding, etc. Message-ID: <7e.11340b4a.27c60f57@aol.com> In a message dated 2/21/01 9:27:31 PM, umiller@azdps.com wrote: <> Nice article indeed. I was able to find it at http://www.azcentral.com:80/home/garden/0221citrusside21.html. Tom From Kwood@uswest.net Thu Feb 22 14:16:31 2001 From: Kwood@uswest.net (Kwood@uswest.net) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 07:16:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102221416.HAA12530@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What type of fruit tree would you reccomend I plant to allow for the following: South back yard, easy maintenance, required for a somewhat confined location, will have reflective heat from wall, will not grow to large. Somehwta of an oasis back yard. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:23 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bulletin on Citrus care Message-ID: <13.11c95ee2.27c6dfdf@aol.com> The Sun City office should have the bulletin on citrus care. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Oleanders with brown leaf tips Message-ID: <45.2b526e3.27c6dfe5@aol.com> Sherryl, Are you deep watering your oleanders ? Shallow watering will not flush the salt out of the root zone and salt will cause the leaftips to turn brown. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Feb 22 21:34:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:34:22 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fertilizing Citrus Message-ID: <67.1013aa63.27c6dfde@aol.com> Your mature citrus should be fertilized thre times per year in Feb., April, and July. The total fertilizer for the year should be one pound of actual nitrogen. This means if you use amonium sulfate, which has an analysis of 21-0-0 or 21 % nitrogen. Your annual usage of this fertilizer should be approximately 5 pounds. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com Thu Feb 22 22:28:34 2001 From: Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com (Jeanne.Gustafson@Prudential.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:28:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102222228.PAA29682@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am relocating to Phoenix from CT and am building a new home in Anthem, AZ. I will be responsible for landscaping both my front and back yards and am very unfamiliar with desert landscapes. Could you recommend a landscaper in the area who utilize xerioscape landscaping techniques, gives good advice and has a good reputation? Any help you could provide would be appreciated. I especially would like to avoid costly mistakes. Thanks. From rnan3815@aol.com Thu Feb 22 22:54:26 2001 From: rnan3815@aol.com (rnan3815@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 15:54:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102222254.PAA05718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> ORANGE TREE PLANTED 05-00 IN METRO AREA.AT GROUND LEVAL TRUNK MEASURES 2 INCHES DIAMETER. AT GROUND LEVAL A BRANCH IS COMING FROM TRUNK UP AND GROWING UP THRU OTHER BRANCHES OF TREE. IT MEASURES 3/4 INCH IN DIAMETER AT BASE(GROUND LEVAL) WHERE IT COMES OFF TRUNK. SHOULD THID BRANCH BE CUT OFF? IF SO SHOULD IT BE PAINTED WITH PAINT? THANK YOU. RNAN3815@AOL.COM From manoj.chandran@philips.com Thu Feb 22 23:32:06 2001 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com (manoj.chandran@philips.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 17:32:06 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care Message-ID: <0056910010498077000002L172*@MHS> I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems etc and how well it grows in Arizona. Thanks. Manoj Chandran. From DDRJJ23@HOME.COM Thu Feb 22 23:40:33 2001 From: DDRJJ23@HOME.COM (DDRJJ23@HOME.COM) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 16:40:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102222340.QAA14600@Ag.Arizona.Edu> WE WOULD LIKE TO GROW OKRA IN POTS. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR COMMENTS WILL BE APPRECIATED, THIS WILL BE OUR FIRST ATTEMPT. From jmlkeenan@aol.com Fri Feb 23 03:40:54 2001 From: jmlkeenan@aol.com (jmlkeenan@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2001 20:40:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102230340.UAA23802@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when is the best time to plant sun flower seeds From K_wood@uswest.net Fri Feb 23 14:07:28 2001 From: K_wood@uswest.net (K_wood@uswest.net) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:07:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102231407.HAA28797@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What type of fruit tree can i get that will grown good in a south exposure backyard, limited space,and reflected heat. Is there a type of tree that will produce eadible fruit yet only grow to a limited height? Thanks From K_wood@uswest.net Fri Feb 23 14:08:53 2001 From: K_wood@uswest.net (K_wood@uswest.net) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 07:08:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102231408.HAA28903@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My queen palm is not doing well, the branches/leaves are brown, what is required and do these plants require alot of water? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Feb 23 15:54:14 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 08:54:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care References: <0056910010498077000002L172*@MHS> Message-ID: <3A9687A5.52A13BB3@email.sps.mot.com> Manoj, I have the Purple Hong Kong Orchid Tree. It is truely one of my favorite trees. You can see pictures of it in bloom at my website, listed below. I believe you can see it in bloom, under my April tabs. I do not give it any *special* attention. Mine is in the lawn area, so it gets watered when the lawn and roses do. It gets fertilized when the lawn and roses are. The only fault I have with this tree, is after blooming it looks wretched for about a month, and makes a big mess. It looses all it's leaves and then you have the spent blooms and seed pods. But it's beauty for the remainder of the year makes it well worth it. It provides great somewhat filtered shade. It's fun watching the almost heart shaped leaves as they fold and close at night, then re-open during the day. The blossoms release an ever so light scent of lilac whe it is at it's heaviest bloom. Since the tree is in my yard, most the liter is picked up when I mow. The seed pods that fall into my rose beds do create some problems, as they reseed easily in the soil I have in my rose beds. I'm going to try a good thick layer of mulch in my rose beds this year and see if that helps to cut down on seed germination. Hope this helps! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, > I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems > etc and how well it grows in Arizona. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 16:13:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 11:13:36 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, removal of branch from below the graft Message-ID: <33.11148110.27c7e630@aol.com> The branch that is growing from the base of your citrus tree is no doubt coming from below the graft and from the root stock which is probably sour orange. Yes do remove it If the trunk is left unshaded then it should be painted with a white water base paint or white wash to protect it from sunburn, or it should be wrapped with a burlap material. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Fri Feb 23 16:50:01 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:50:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, removal of branch from below the graft References: <33.11148110.27c7e630@aol.com> Message-ID: <3A9694B9.CA010D5E@email.sps.mot.com> Rod, Is there any way at all to get the suckers to STOP coming out from below. I have one that is continually shooting out suckers. Drives me nuts! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > The branch that is growing from the base of your citrus tree is no doubt > coming from below the graft and from the root stock which is probably sour > orange. Yes do remove it If the trunk is left unshaded then it should be > painted with a white water base paint or white wash to protect it from > sunburn, or it should be wrapped with a burlap material. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aeiouenv@aol.com Fri Feb 23 16:46:37 2001 From: aeiouenv@aol.com (aeiouenv@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 09:46:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102231646.JAA27273@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My citrus trees (8 Yrs old) get thousands of blossoms and the fruit grows to about marble size and then dries up and all fall off. This past season I had only 8 grapefruit & about a dozen oranges. One tree I got nothing. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. rnie vowles From drtensile@cs.com Fri Feb 23 17:10:06 2001 From: drtensile@cs.com (drtensile@cs.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:10:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102231710.KAA03284@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Being new to the Valley 1998,and coming from the State of Washington I have finaly landscaped my backyard with plants and fruit trees I have desired. Now I want to plant an Avocado tree but am having a tough time gathering information. Last year I purchased a 2 year old plant, which did well until the month of August when I did not water it enough for the one hundred and ten degree weather. I would appreciate any information on this Avocado tree project. tks Don From steve.sheard@motorola.com Fri Feb 23 17:22:43 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 10:22:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care In-Reply-To: <3A9687A5.52A13BB3@email.sps.mot.com> Message-ID: I also have one in my lawn. My only comment is that the branches are soft so are susceptible to being bent around by the wind. The tree will need staking for a few years and the branches need trimming to keep the weight of the leaves from bending them too much. Otherwise it is fantastic. Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Alan Zelhart (rpcs30) Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 8:54 AM To: manoj.chandran@philips.com Cc: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Hongkong orchid tree care Manoj, I have the Purple Hong Kong Orchid Tree. It is truely one of my favorite trees. You can see pictures of it in bloom at my website, listed below. I believe you can see it in bloom, under my April tabs. I do not give it any *special* attention. Mine is in the lawn area, so it gets watered when the lawn and roses do. It gets fertilized when the lawn and roses are. The only fault I have with this tree, is after blooming it looks wretched for about a month, and makes a big mess. It looses all it's leaves and then you have the spent blooms and seed pods. But it's beauty for the remainder of the year makes it well worth it. It provides great somewhat filtered shade. It's fun watching the almost heart shaped leaves as they fold and close at night, then re-open during the day. The blossoms release an ever so light scent of lilac whe it is at it's heaviest bloom. Since the tree is in my yard, most the liter is picked up when I mow. The seed pods that fall into my rose beds do create some problems, as they reseed easily in the soil I have in my rose beds. I'm going to try a good thick layer of mulch in my rose beds this year and see if that helps to cut down on seed germination. Hope this helps! -- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 147 Rose Bushes Planted! 78 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > I recently purchased a Honkong Orchid 24 gallon tree from a local nursery and had it planted in my backyard, > I am looking for information from any one who has had experience with this tree on irrigation, fertilizer, problems > etc and how well it grows in Arizona. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:54 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus crop light Message-ID: It is very common for citrus to have alternate good and bad seasons, however in your case be sure that you are fertilizing and watering properly. Too much or no fertilizer as well as inadequate irrigation can reduce your citrus crop. Check out this website for proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf U of A Cooperative Extension, 4341 E Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has an exellent bulletin on citrus care available for $1.00. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Queen palm Message-ID: <56.7a2dc91.27c80570@aol.com> The Queen Palm is not well adapted to out low desert climate, consequently it is difficult to keep looking healthy and alive. Queens should be fertilized three to four times a year with a fertilizer especially for palms, one that has a NPK ratio of 3-1-3. In adition they should be deep watered periodically. Check out these websites on palm care and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Feb 23 18:26:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 13:26:57 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fruit tree for limited space Message-ID: Why not check out one of the dwarf varieties of either citrus or one of the stone fruits. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Feb 23 22:17:40 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 15:17:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi - I'm letting my ignorance hang out here but - what the heck? I'm among friends, right? Here goes -- Where are the seeds on penstemons? I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon Sensation Mix and thought that I'd harvest the seeds. I know that they're ready when they're black (can't remember where I read that). But where are they? When the flower drops off, is it that little black pouch-like thing that stays behind on the plant? (Obviously I didn't pay much attention to these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot. Most likely I wasn't paying attention.) Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi - I'm letting my = ignorance=20 hang out here but - what the heck?  I'm among friends, right?  = Here=20 goes --
 
Where are the seeds = on=20 penstemons?  I just bought a large beautiful pot of Penstemon = Sensation Mix=20 and thought that I'd harvest the seeds.  I know that they're ready = when=20 they're black (can't remember where I read that).  But where are=20 they?  When the flower drops off, is it that little black = pouch-like thing=20 that stays behind on the plant?  (Obviously I didn't pay much = attention to=20 these things when I was in school or maybe I forgot.  Most likely I = wasn't=20 paying attention.)
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0008_01C09DAB.C350E140-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 03:14:11 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 20:14:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Planting Sunflower seeds References: <200102230340.UAA23802@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A972703.9053C88F@qwest.net> Plant sunflower seeds can be planted almost year round here in the valley. For more information please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3767.html in our archives where you will find Lucy Bradley's response to a similar question. Sue Bass Master Gardener jmlkeenan@aol.com wrote: > when is the best time to plant sun flower seeds > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:37:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:37:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care References: <200102231408.HAA28903@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97C73D.7CD2E4DD@qwest.net> We have an excellent publication on palm trees, varieties and care practices, that is online at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm It is in the ornamentals section AZ 1021. If after perusing this you are still confused, write us back with some more specific questions, including your current watering and feeding practices. Please note that queen palms are not the best adapted palms to our area, not liking the hot dry winds and being susceptible to a few rots and nutrient deficiencies. But they do make a lovely tropical backdrop in a yard. Linda Guy Master Gardener K_wood@uswest.net wrote: > My queen palm is not doing well, the branches/leaves are brown, what is required and do these plants require alot of water? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:44:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:44:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Small Fruit Trees References: <200102221416.HAA12530@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97C8E5.E1018F23@qwest.net> In addition to Rod's response, may I suggest that you look through our publications on suitable varieties for the low desert, where I assume you live? http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm In the citrus section, AZ 1001 Low Desert Citrus Varieties In the fruits section MC 90 Deciduous Fruits and Nuts for the low desert Unfortunately, the latter cannot be viewed online, but instructions for ordering it are at the top of this page. When you get a better idea of what you want [citrus will be evergreen and always providing shade; deciduous trees will provide sun in the winter] you can then pursue dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties. Another good place to check is the relevant chapters of the Master Gardener Manual, which is also online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Linda Guy Master Gardener Kwood@uswest.net wrote: > What type of fruit tree would you reccomend I plant to allow for the following: > > South back yard, easy maintenance, required for a somewhat confined location, will have reflective heat from wall, will not grow to large. Somehwta of an oasis back yard. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 14:58:29 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 07:58:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Features in Xeriscape References: <200102212022.NAA11526@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97CC15.38B16FBE@qwest.net> Derived from the Greek 'xeros' meaning dry, xeriscape a term for water-conserving practices in one's landscape. Conserving, to me, is not the same as forgoing water. When I originally took my MG training the intent appeared to be making use of plants that were native to one's area, whatever area that might be, or adapted plants. No where did I learn that water features were incompatible with these principles which include doing good planning/design, using efficient irrigation techniques, which means grouping plants with similar irrigation needs, applying mulches to limit evaporation and using plant material that have low water requirements. How many xeriscaped designs have a pool at the center of attention!? Indeed, in the creation of a yard that is designed to attract wildlife, a water feature such as a small pond would be a crucial element. As always, planning, design, efficient use of water would play a role in installing a water feature. Linda Guy Master Gardener mgood@txnla.org wrote: > I have heard that gardens with a water feature can qualify as Xeriscape if they do not contain fountains. Is this true? > Marilyn Good, Texas Nursery & Landscape Association > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:03:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:03:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care References: <20010202154913.29163.qmail@web1403.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3A97CD3C.A418993F@qwest.net> While I cannot specifically address the arborist's feeding injection, it is true, as you have no doubt read from our online publication on palms, http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf 15 years ago, the ones that I had in my yard did fine with the palm specific fertilizer that most nurseries carry, applied as per the package instructions. Our publication discusses this, too. As to the fungus, my understanding is that it needs to be treated topically and soil injections can't possibly address this issue. You already know that deep irrigation is the ticket! Thanks for the kind words about our postings. Linda Guy Master Gardener BOB RAMSEY wrote: > While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a > certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding > care of my queen palms. He says that they should have > frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid > fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here > and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep > root and microinject fertilization that they do for > $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide > that kills fungus that almost always is present in the > "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not > provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What > do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the > watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your > help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. > > __________________________________________________ > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:04:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:04:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Superthrive References: <200102040204.TAA23243@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97CD78.40B1CE31@qwest.net> I don't think that you received a reply. Could you provide a listing of the product's ingredients and maybe someone can address your question from this angle. Linda Guy Master Gardener MTQR4@aol.com wrote: > Has anyone heard of a product called "Super thrive". I bought a small bottle of it at a nursery in Tucson. It is supposed to be a growth hormone for plants that reduces transplant shock and increases bloom, fruit and growth. Does anybody have any experience on using it and what results and procedures? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:17:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Screwbean Mesquite Trees References: <000a01c091fb$564d4fe0$6803d440@jrchambe> Message-ID: <3A97D097.92A49479@qwest.net> --------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just pruned my screwbean yesterday, what a cute 'little' [hah!] tree! Although at some 24' or so, I already needed a ladder! February is the time to prune most mesquites; yours should begin to bloom in April/May. You can begin to prune up the trunk to create a tree canopy, but if this is the first season for the tree, I would limit the pruning for a year. Next February you can really start shaping it. This will give it maximum leaf surface for nutrient production and establishment during its first year in your yard. For now, focus on eliminating crossed branches, dead wood or obvious distortions in the shape. This tree will have a tendency to sucker alot if excessive pruning occurs. You will need to water deeply and regularly the first summer to establish the tree. But thereafter, most of us with native plant material will limit watering for several reasons. Water conservation, emulating the trees's natural habitat, and reducing need for summer pruning and resulting masses of material to discard in the dump. My native trees' water station is kept on 'off' since their second year in my yards, and I water deeply about two times in the summer to emulate monsoon moisture. This would be a reasonable strategy for your screwbean [mine is now about 18' though it was easilty in excess of 22' before yesterday morning] as it is a denizen of flood plains and valleys. As a result, I really only need to prune once a year, removing only straggles that threaten passing pedestrians in the summer months of growth. You might want to check out our publications list, specifically the desert-adapted plant section and ornamentals section for other information on care and pruning practices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Hope this is helpful to you. Linda Guy Master Gardener BJ wrote: > Arid_gardener; We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in > our back yard. We have no idea how to care for them. We want to > prune them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and > then fertilize them. Any information you can give us about taking > care of them would be helpful.Barbara & John --------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just pruned my screwbean yesterday, what a cute 'little'  [hah!] tree! Although at some 24' or so, I already needed a ladder! February is the time to prune most mesquites; yours should begin to bloom in April/May.

You can begin to prune up the trunk to create a tree canopy, but if this is the first season for the tree, I would limit the pruning for a year. Next February you can really start shaping it. This will give it maximum leaf surface for nutrient production and establishment during its first year in your yard. For now, focus on eliminating crossed branches, dead wood or obvious distortions in the shape.  This tree will have a tendency to sucker alot if excessive pruning occurs.

You will need to water deeply and regularly the first summer to establish the tree. But thereafter, most of us with native plant material will limit watering for several reasons. Water conservation, emulating the trees's natural habitat, and reducing need for summer pruning and resulting masses of material to discard in the dump. My native trees' water station is kept on 'off' since their second year in my yards, and I water deeply about two times in the summer to emulate monsoon moisture. This would be a reasonable strategy for your screwbean [mine is now about 18' though it was easilty in excess of 22' before yesterday morning] as it is a denizen of flood plains and valleys. As a result, I really only need to prune once a year, removing only straggles that threaten passing pedestrians in the summer months of growth.

You might want to check out our publications list, specifically the desert-adapted plant section and ornamentals section for other information on care and pruning practices. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top

Hope this is helpful to you.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

BJ wrote:

Arid_gardener;    We planted screwbean mesquite trees last summer in our back yard.  We have no idea how to care for them.  We want to prune them soon to encourage them to become trees verses shrubs and then fertilize them.  Any information you can give us about taking care of them would be helpful.Barbara & John
--------------532C56E0E36B8B4524536463-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:20:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:20:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Problems References: <200102082137.OAA15550@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97D137.3C8F4EE0@qwest.net> I gave up on gardenias years ago, as they required proportionately more care than my other, better adapted plants. I can't address your problem specifically, but I'm just wondering if they are feeling a bit too cold and too wet, in what has been a cooler winter than we've experienced in the last few years. Your supplementation with acidifying products is good, but I'm not sure if it's enough or too much. Do you have our publication on this plant, which you can order at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top Linda Guy Master Gardener rap1020@home.com wrote: > I have gardenia plant on the north side of my house out of direct sun. I supplement the soil to maintain acidity. The newer leaves are slightly yellow with brown spots on them. The buds form but turn brown and drop off prior to bloom. What is wrong? What can be done? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:26:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:26:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pink Jasmine References: <200102121721.KAA11358@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97D295.2E1729DD@qwest.net> Locally, we have varieties of jasmine and star jasmine [trachelospermum]. I believe the latter is better adapted to this locale. My star jasmine used to be on a south-facing wall and did well despite a general preference for some afternoon relief from summer sun. [There was some filtered shade from some palms overhead.] If this is what you have, your proposed placement sounds good. Linda Guy Master Gardener dsavini@hotmail.com wrote: > Where can I plant a pink jasmine vine. 5 Gallon would like to plant it against block fence facing east. Does it take full sun in the summer. Thank you so much for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:28:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:28:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrub Aster References: <200102141628.JAA01438@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97D32A.CEAEB43@qwest.net> I haven't seen a response to your question yet, and I assume it's because no one was able to identify your plant from the description provided. Can you provide more details? Have you read the Sunset Western Garden Book's references to asters to better identify your plant? Linda Guy Master Gardener KriegeP@juno.com wrote: > Pruning Shrub Aster: > > I have a large bush about 5 feet high and 5 feet wide, which I was told was a shrub aster. It was completely covered with the most beautiful blue asters in fall. It is dormant now, and the leaves are brown. When should I prune it and how much should I prune? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:32:21 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:32:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Rot References: <200102150607.XAA05574@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97D405.88810C5E@qwest.net> We have a publication on bacterial necrosis of saguaro [#8837] at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top and it is also discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Timely treatment of the problem while it is small is essential. This problem is more likely to occur after a period of rainy weather, so it is a good idea to keep an eye on your saguaros when the rains come. Linda Guy Master Gardener schneider_4871@email.msn.com wrote: > Saguaro problem: > > The top of the saguaro appears to be dead. Black. It appears limited to only the growing tip. > > It has also had a spot of rot that I promptly cut out and seems to have healed. > > It had 3/4 flowers last summer. > > Is it in trouble? Anything I can do? > > What resources books/people can I turn to? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From K_wood@uswest.net Sat Feb 24 15:41:06 2001 From: K_wood@uswest.net (K_wood@uswest.net) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:41:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200102241541.IAA23764@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a hot south backyard that gets sun all day long. What plants will work well to get a real tropical look. I like pigmy palms,which may work, but what about other plants that are tropical looking and can take the hot heat all day long From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:42:25 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:42:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Fairy Dusters [Calliandra californica] References: <200102150602.XAA05280@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <001001c09793$50f82400$0f02000a@computer> Message-ID: <3A97D661.8019ACFD@qwest.net> I have about 5 of these beauties and the ones that flourish are the ones in full sun. They are dense and luxurious looking, whereas the two on the north wall of the house that only get sun 7-8 months out of the year are like long droopy whips, spindly, blooming infrequently, hardly the same plant as the siblings out in full light. I'm going to move these two in the next month. After 4 years in the location, a more shade-tolerant plant would be a better choice. Pruning helps to keep the lanky look in check, but in my opinion, the shrubs will never truly thrive in these locations. Pruning is recommended for late spring [May], never in the heat of the summer. Severe pruning will ordinarily inhibit flowering; but if you are trying to reshape the plant, you may need to do a bit more. Again, I think location, not pruning, is the ticket. Linda Guy Master Gardener Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > I have a red fairy dusty that is rather lanky--6 thin stems rising from the > ground some two feet or so. It is a year and a half old (but almost died by > being eaten by ants last spring) and is in mostly shade during the winter, > although from now until late fall it will get a good dose of sun. Will > pruning help this bush to thicken up or should I just let it go? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:48:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:48:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Queen Palm Care References: <20010202154913.29163.qmail@web1403.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3A97D7C1.34EE2492@qwest.net> [Resent to correct a speeding mind but sluggish fingers at the keys!] While I cannot specifically address the arborist's feeding injection, it is true, as you have no doubt read from our online publication on palms, http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf that queen palms can have micronutrient deficiencies. 15 years ago, the ones that I had in my yard did fine with the palm specific fertilizer that most nurseries carry, applied as per the package instructions. Our publication discusses this, too. As to the fungus, my understanding is that it needs to be treated topically and soil injections can't possibly address this issue. You already know that deep irrigation is the ticket! Thanks for the kind words about our postings. Linda Guy Master Gardener BOB RAMSEY wrote: > While having my large chinese elm trimmed by a > certified argorist, I got conflicting info regarding > care of my queen palms. He says that they should have > frequent shallow watering in the summer to avoid > fugus. This seems exactly opposite what I read here > and in the UofA info. Also he highly recommended deep > root and microinject fertilization that they do for > $50 a tree. He said that this includes a fungicide > that kills fungus that almost always is present in the > "heart" ofthe palm. He feels that a homeowner can not > provide adequate care for the trees on their own. What > do your think? Is this a controversial thing about the > watering or are they just uninformed? Thanks for your > help, I enjoy reading this digest every day. > > __________________________________________________ > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 > a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:52:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:52:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Beans or peppers better suited to raised beds v level plots? References: <4.2.2.20010221112230.00c53a30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3A97D8D3.F6CBF842@qwest.net> As long as the soils are well prepared, as per previous missives on the subject, it shouldn't make a difference. What is warmer now, could be scalding later, no?] Our publications list has several items on soil prep; check them out at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener Jonathan Kandell wrote: > I have one plot of deep soil at ground level and another fifteen inch deep > raised bed. I was thinking the raised bed would be better suited to > peppers and tomatoes than to the beans, since it was warmer and shallower. > > Thoughts? Does it matter? > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Feb 24 15:58:04 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:58:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacias References: <200102201547.IAA05595@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3A97DA0C.432CC519@qwest.net> From your description, I'm assuming you have A. smallii or A. farnesiana, both of which are in my yards. I have the same care practices as you, that is, benign neglect since they are indeed so well adapted here. [They get watered about twice in the summer months, just like a monsoon rain or two.] I do notice that they are cold-deciduous, that is, they experience more leaf