From c.ornucopia.wine@home.com Fri Jun 1 15:41:31 2001 From: c.ornucopia.wine@home.com (c.ornucopia.wine@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:41:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106011541.f51FfVB16188@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often should catus plants such as agave be watered? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit , 2 years, not bearing fruit Message-ID: <74.b1ed951.284919fe@aol.com> Citrus typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. What you are seeing is the tree sheding the fruit that it is not ready to bear. Your irrigation interval is too long for a two year old tree in summer. Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning trees and shrubs Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on pruning available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil sulfur Message-ID: <61.e838751.28491a04@aol.com> Dispersol is the brand name for soil sulfur. One variety of Dispersol contains iron and manganese which I opt to use because of these micro nutrients. I've purchased Dispersol at Gardeners World. Soil su;lfur is slow acting taking several months before one sees any change. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms with light colored fronds Message-ID: It often takes several months to see a change in color of palm fronds after applying corrective nutrients. Check out these sites for palm care and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:09 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #118 - 19 msgs Message-ID: <36.16c68f70.28491a05@aol.com> Suzanne, Fish emulsion and Osmacote are both excellent choices, I use them both. I just visited with Master Gardener Jack Blake today at a seminar and he told me that he is teaching horticultural clases at home depot. Don't miss his class when he comes to your store, he will have an abundance of correct info. good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Fri Jun 1 18:05:59 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 11:05:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: leaf ID Message-ID: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> >From the photo the leaf looks most like that of a white mulberry, Morus alba. A description and photo can be found at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/poison/Morusal.htm (the North Carolina poisonous plant site, of all things!) Mulberries would certainly make themselves known by shedding lots of purple berries, if given a chance. Seems to me though, that it may not have a chance to do so if severely cut back often, and the result may be more shrublike than tree-like. Of course, as Olin says you could ask your neighbor. :) Don Garnett From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 1 21:37:11 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer References: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B180B07.623F40BB@AuroraNow.org> Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite route there? Thanks. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From gingerb2l@netscape.net Fri Jun 1 21:52:45 2001 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:52:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we are moving from upstate new york will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jun 2 02:02:12 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:02:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lilacs, Bulbs, Raspberries References: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <004e01c0eb08$1ac8b200$4552530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > we are moving from upstate new york > will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area Assuming you refer to the low desert in the greater Phoenix AZ area, welcome to The Valley of the Sun. Many, but not all, bulbs will do okay. Usually planted October-November. Some require special procedures like stratification, often by cooling in a refrigerator for a certain length of time and at a certain time of the year. Raspberries are not adapted. Some varieties of blackberries do okay. I am not aware of anybody growing French lilacs. Persian lilacs will grow and bloom but blossoms are small. If you need specifics, please repost. There are so many beautiful and interesting plants that one can grow successfully here that can not be grown elsewhere. I suggest you familiarize yourself with our plants and growing conditions by perusing the home page and links at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ The monthly Timely Tips links should be helpful. Olin From mcp5457@aol.com Sat Jun 2 05:01:11 2001 From: mcp5457@aol.com (mcp5457@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Cira Passley From Auslender@aol.com Sat Jun 2 14:41:06 2001 From: Auslender@aol.com (Auslender@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:41:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Message-ID: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jun 2 15:37:06 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 08:37:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Watering and Feeding In-Reply-To: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Leonard - I have bougainvillea all over the place - in pots on the patio, in the yard, etc., so I have some experience with them. Initially, when they're young, they need more water, but after they're established they don't need daily watering. I water the established ones in pots on my patio about every three days now that it's so hot or earlier if I detect wilting. But this also depends on the type of pot (clay pottery pots lose lots of moisture through the pot so they may need more frequent watering) and the size of the pot. The bigger, the more water it holds and the less frequently it needs watering. Yours is a large pot, so I would try watering it like I do - once every three days and see how it goes. If they wilt - then do it every two days. After the hot season, you can reduce the watering. In fact, during the cooler parts of the year, I water them once a week or so and that seems to be fine (though right now it's hard for me to remember that we DO have cool days). I occasionally feed my patio ones with some regular water-soluble food, but I don't do it very often. They don't seem to need a lot of food, but since they're in pots and the watering washes away nutrients, I do feed them occasionally. I would NOT use any bloom booster type products. The established ones in the ground rarely get any water or anything else. I took them off the dripper system and they grow like crazy. It seems like the more neglect, the more bracts (flowers). I hope this helps. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Auslender@aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:41 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jun 2 17:09:01 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:09:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Poolside Landscapes References: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B191DAD.5E42E53A@qwest.net> Cira: You can view University of AZ publication AZ1058, entitled Plants for Poolside Landscapes on-line by using the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener mcp5457@aol.com wrote: > could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. > Thanks, > Cira Passley > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chebert621@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:36:59 2001 From: chebert621@aol.com (chebert621@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 15:36:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106022236.f52MaxB19399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My mesquite tree has suddenly taken a dive-literally. Two of the main branches(each about 10 inches in diameter)have split and are now touching the ground. A couple of other areas appear to have splitting bark and are oozing.Can this tree be saved? It is abut 14 years old, 20-30 feet high, with an equalspread. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:58:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:58:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: <83.b6e52d5.284ac983@aol.com> Sherryl The Roundup will kill nearly anything that is actively growing and you can use a preemergent weed killer such as Surflan or Weed and Grass Preventer to prevent the seeds from sprouting. You may have a problem finding Surflan since their manufacturing plant burned recently, but nurseries should know of a substitute. I would suggest that you do not consider any herbicide that is classed as a soil sterilent. Soil sterilents can stay in the soil for years and can migrate away from the area where applied and kill any plant roots that it contacts. I also recommend against using plastic under the granite. Weeds may grow through the plastic and others will grow on top of the plastic. The worst part is that moisture collects under the plastic, any plant roots that are nearby will come to the surface for the water, when the hot weather arrives the roots can cook. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Adriennetb@aol.com Sun Jun 3 00:09:46 2001 From: Adriennetb@aol.com (Adriennetb@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 17:09:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106030009.f5309kB26024@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is the program "Farm and Home" still on? If so what channel and what time? I really enjoyed it and miss it. Thank you. From Krulich@aol.com Sun Jun 3 22:37:42 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:37:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: Hello, I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will not last through this year's monsoon season. The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of right away! Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 01:09:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:09:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: <9c.ee8f208.284c39c2@aol.com> Tom , I would suggest that you have an arborist look at your mulberry tree and advise you as to a course of action. With the size of the tree and its rotted condition it could become a hazzard if it is not already. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From prschellhase@home.com Mon Jun 4 18:35:07 2001 From: prschellhase@home.com (prschellhase@home.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041835.f54IZ7B04312@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an 8 year old, yellow hybiscus plant. Each morning I pick off about 1 to 2 dozen yellow leaves. Within 24 hours I have another 1 to 2 dozen leaves, some have completely turned from dark green to bright yellow. I deep water it every couple of days and and give it 10-30-10 fert once every 6 weeks. Is this normal? Is it a pest, too much water, not enough water, the wrong ph or something else? I have had this problem for years. It detracts from the enjoyment of the plant. Please help! From lsveith@swlink.net Mon Jun 4 19:17:29 2001 From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:17:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041917.f54JHTB12765@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When is the best time to trim Oleander so they will continue blooming. In advance, thanks From DWoodw1016@aol.com Mon Jun 4 19:35:36 2001 From: DWoodw1016@aol.com (DWoodw1016@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:35:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041935.f54JZaB15529@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a California Pepper tree and noticed that the bark was coming off the branches. What could cause this to happen? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper tree losing bark Message-ID: <97.16616a2b.284d6ed1@aol.com> The California Pepper Tree grown here in the low desert is susceptable to a number of problems such as Texas Root Rot, root knot nematodes, and heart rot. It is very important that one keep the tree from being drought stressed by proper irrigation. A drought stressed tree becomes a target for many problems. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:00 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders, pruning Message-ID: <48.169722e7.284d6ed0@aol.com> If you prune your oleanders in the winter after they stop bloming, they will then be ready to bloom again when the weather warms. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:07:59 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:07:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus with yellow leaves Message-ID: Overwatering will cause thhe leaves to yellow on most plants. If you deep watered once a week your hibiscus would be much happier. Check out this site on landscape irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From tgeddes135@aol.com Tue Jun 5 00:51:46 2001 From: tgeddes135@aol.com (tgeddes135@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050051.f550pWB04729@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What do I do with my Iris bed now that they have finished blooming. Do I leave the bulbs in the ground or do I dig them up? Thank you From emily@primeshot.com Tue Jun 5 01:01:39 2001 From: emily@primeshot.com (emily@primeshot.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 18:01:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? From tsmithra@ionet.net Tue Jun 5 16:29:01 2001 From: tsmithra@ionet.net (tsmithra@ionet.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:29:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051629.f55GT1h21820@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have a mature joshua tree with one 30+ foot tall arm, that appears dry and brittle in the middle 10' of it. it seems healthy at the top and bottom of the arm. we're concerned that it will fall on the neighbors house if we don't do something about it. who might we contact regarding assesment, removal of the arm, support of the arm, etc. we just need a little good advice thanks From jasbo@home.com Tue Jun 5 18:37:08 2001 From: jasbo@home.com (jasbo@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:37:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051837.f55Ib8h13718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am looking for a suggestion for a tree to plant in my front yard. It has limited space and afternoon sun. I would prefer one that did not drop its leaves, and do not want a palm tree. A Purple Plum and a Swanhill Olive tree were both mentioned as possibilities. Do you have any thoughts on these trees or any other suggestions. Thank you so much. From bkrich@qwest.net Tue Jun 5 19:37:55 2001 From: bkrich@qwest.net (bkrich@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:37:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051937.f55Jbth23611@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I protect the fruit on my plum tree from being eaten by birds just as it is becoming ripe? From menuccibob@qwest.net Wed Jun 6 01:28:28 2001 From: menuccibob@qwest.net (menuccibob@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:28:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060128.f561SSh16886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I consulted a Horticulturist on planting 2 - 3' Pecan trees that I ordered from Georgia. She was wonderful, and both trees are in the ground and seem to be doing fine, but I have two questions and I haven't been able to contact her. Some background: I put the bare root trees in a bucket of water with a Root Stimulator while I dug 4' holes 3' in diameter. (I know, it was rough!) I put Gypsum on the bottom and filled the holes with water and let it drain. Then I backfilled, while mixing in some potting soil, (Less than 50%) and deep watered with "Triple Phosphate". Here is question #1: How often do I water them in this heat? I've been doing it about once a week, and I believe they are now established, but don't have a lot of growth (a few leaves on the trunk in several places). #2 Can, or should I use "Triple Phosphate" to promote growth and how often? If not, what should I use? Thanks in advance! Bob Menucci From PoetEvan@aol.com Wed Jun 6 03:49:43 2001 From: PoetEvan@aol.com (PoetEvan@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:49:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060349.f563nhh02101@Ag.Arizona.Edu> There is printer ink on paper that is finely shredded at work. I'd like to compost it with grass clippings and other matter. How much of a problem is the ink as I strive towards an organic approach to gardening? From skye4141@aol.com Wed Jun 6 06:10:43 2001 From: skye4141@aol.com (skye4141@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:10:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060610.f566Ahh15114@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Perris, California. I have about 40 Oleander bushes and about 3/4 of them are dying. There is supposedly a disease going around. My next door neighbors are not dying, but the one two doors up have dying oleanders also. The neighborhood nursury says nothing can be done. I believe something can be done but what? Can you help me? We are elderly and it would be a problem removing them and replacing with something else. From rp@rpryan.com Wed Jun 6 14:11:26 2001 From: rp@rpryan.com (rp@rpryan.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:11:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. From bjsam1@msn.com Wed Jun 6 14:58:19 2001 From: bjsam1@msn.com (bjsam1@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:58:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061458.f56EwJh28288@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello! I live in a unique area of Phoenix that contains nearly 300 date palms orginally planted in the 1930s. The neighbors in this area would like to know the best time to trim these trees to remove all sprouting dates since the dates are no longer harvested. It seems to me that if the trees are trimmed during the first 2 weeks in May, all the dates get removed and there is no problem throughout the year with excess dates dropping to the ground. Do you have any information on this subject? Sincerely, Barbra J. Samuels From cwdl@tri.com Wed Jun 6 15:21:14 2001 From: cwdl@tri.com (cwdl@tri.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:21:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061521.f56FLEh01977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i,m looking for something that will grow side of hill very rocky low watering, very hot, and the small animals won't eat. year around, with some color..any help, thank you donna glisson From russell9009@aol.com Wed Jun 6 15:37:30 2001 From: russell9009@aol.com (russell9009@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:37:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061537.f56FbUh05750@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it possible to grow hostas in Phoenix, AZ? If so how do I go about it? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 16:40:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:40:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E5D02.5AA7CEB8@AuroraNow.org> rp@rpryan.com wrote: > > This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good Luck! -- Sherryl From jstover@gilland.com Wed Jun 6 17:33:44 2001 From: jstover@gilland.com (jstover@gilland.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> While visiting your area recently, we discovered a prolific, open bush that we would like to identify. This plant had green slender leaves, and its flower stalks were topped with 4-8 inch spikes of small blossoms in a startling red-orange color. Its height was usually around 3-4 feet, and it was used extensively in shopping center and freeway landscaping. Could you provide the horticultural name for the plant, and/or its growing characteristics? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 19:20:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E827F.D5339ABC@AuroraNow.org> You were looking at a Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima/poinciana pulcherrima). Tropical deciduous shrub. Most visitors to our low deserts are struck by this beauty (it's not a native, but thrives here with little care). Unfortunately, it couldn't handle cold winters, although it reportedly can rebound from freezing back in not-too-harsh climates. The seeds and seed pods are poisonous. There is also a taller, more tree-like yellow variety called Mexican (c. mexicana) or Yellow Bird of Paradise (c. gilliesii/poinciana gilliesii). In warm climates, it is a quick, prolific grower and can reach 10 feet. Some people cut them back in winter to keep them at the 3-4' height you saw. They can remain evergreen in mild winters (here in Tucson, they were mostly burgundy leaved to decidous this past winter, but the two winters previous they stayed mostly green). They bloom all during the warm season, need very little water and full sun. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From slicknjo@aol.com Wed Jun 6 19:59:35 2001 From: slicknjo@aol.com (slicknjo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 12:59:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061959.f56JxZh23776@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our 11 yrs old Arizona Sweet Orange tree is not bearing well. The tree looks great, we get lots of blossums. The fruit is small and the last couple of years we only get about a dozen oranges. This year we noticed the new fruit is turning very dark brown, getting very hard and then falling off the tree. Again, it looks like we will only have a few oranges. We feel we are giving the tree enough water and we fertilize are recommended. Any ideas? Thank you. From southpawaz@home.com Wed Jun 6 22:05:06 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 15:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1EA912.96EEE25B@home.com> emily@primeshot.com wrote: > > Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? Emily, There is information on growing both of these in Phoenix at the links below: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Anacardiaceae/Mangifera_indica.html http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lauraceae/Persea_americana.html -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 6 23:14:54 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:14:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders dying Message-ID: I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will be listed under county government i n your phone book. If as your nursery says there is a disease that is killing the oleanders the Cooperative Extension will know about it and if there is a cure they should have an answer. Fortunately here in southern Arizona we have not had a problem with oleanders dying. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan tree care Message-ID: Bob, You didn't say where you live or when you planted the pecan tree. If planted later than February then the chances of survival are marginal if you live in the low desert. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html A bulletin on pecan care put out by the Maricopa Cooperative Extension states that the pecan tree requires the elements nitrogen and zinc which should only be applied after the tree is one year old. If you live in Maricopa county our soils typically have enough phosphorus to supply the need of pecans. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From scsvrs@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 01:01:51 2001 From: scsvrs@hotmail.com (scsvrs@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:01:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:20:28 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:20:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potted Gardenia In-Reply-To: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Valerie - Gardenias are tough plants to grow out here. They don't like sudden temperature changes and sudden humidity can cause them to act up, too. They also don't like direct sun so having them in the shade is good, though they also like some sun. They also need periodic feedings of Miracid or a similar product. I have two in the ground that did well while they were getting dappled light from a palm tree. But now that the palm is tall they get full sun instead of the dappled shade in the hot afternoon and they've also started dropping their buds. They need constant care. You can look at other discussions on gardenias if you go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in gardenias to search on that word. Good luck. They're nice plants but require an awful lot of pampering and sometimes no matter what you do, they bite the dust anyway. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of scsvrs@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 6:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:23:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Lantana, Etc In-Reply-To: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in lantana pruning and hit search and you'll see other discussions regarding pruning of lantanas. You can do the same for oleander and bougainvillea or anything else that suits your fancy. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:15 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 04:56:33 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:56:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! References: Message-ID: <3B1F0981.45F279A3@qwest.net> Tom: I didn't see that a response had been posted to your question. This is something that I would suggest calling a professional arborist for. If you do not know of one in your area, you can go to the following link to locate a certified arborist by zip code http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > > I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a > crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow > inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do > something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening > and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and > around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will > not last through this year's monsoon season. > > The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' > span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a > massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. > > Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left > to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? > Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of > right away! > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 05:04:29 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 22:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade Trees References: <200105042312.f44NCMW17168@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1F0B5D.A18CABBF@qwest.net> I didn't see that you had received a response to your question regarding shade trees. The following link will take you to our web page, publications section where you will find a listing of publications on Ornamentals. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals There is a publication available entitled Trees for Maricopa County. Publication #MC13. The top of the page will give you instructions on how to order a copy or you may find a copy in a binder at your local library branch. The binder is 635 General Reference. The librarian can help you find it. The title is Horticulture Publications. You can then make a photo copy of the publication. Sue Bass Master Gardener accordino@qwest.net wrote: > Can you recommend a good shade tree for > my Northwest Phoenix yard? It will be on the > south side of the > house (lots of sun in the summer). Two fruit > trees in this area, an apricot and a plum, > have both died after 3 years. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From smcobain@aol.com Thu Jun 7 15:57:32 2001 From: smcobain@aol.com (smcobain@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 08:57:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071557.f57FvWh09365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have recently moved to Mesa from Washington State and are slowly learning about gardening in the Southwest. Question...some of my young plants and a small orange tree seem to be in some distress because of some "webby" stuff clustered on the foliage. Any help would sure be appreciated. Thanks! Stephanie Cobain From maas61@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 19:42:27 2001 From: maas61@hotmail.com (maas61@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:42:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HOW OFTEN SHOULD ONE WATER A LANTANA BUSH From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Jun 7 20:01:01 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering lantana References: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1FDD7D.817DBD5B@AuroraNow.org> Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Lantana require very little watering once established. I'm watering my young gallon size March-planted lantanas once a week right now and even that may be a little too often but they're on the same soaker hose as other plants that seem to want to be watered every week right now. Deep, infrequent water is best. If you water or fertilize too much, you'll get far fewer blooms. I haven't fed mine at all, actually. Hope that helps. -- Sherryl Stalinski (not a master gardener) From michelemc@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 20:23:27 2001 From: michelemc@qwest.net (michelemc@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:23:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072023.f57KNRh08984@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is best to feed palm trees. I'm told Queen Palms actually need some type of feed that can be "poured" into center stalk of tree. HELP! I do not know if these like acid or alkalin type. thanks, Michele Clark From phg@citieswestpub.com Thu Jun 7 20:50:24 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:50:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 21:31:20 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 14:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Paint on Citrus Trees In-Reply-To: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: The paint prevents the trunk from being burned if it's exposed during the summer. Latex white paint will do the trick and not harm the tree. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of phg@citieswestpub.com Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 1:50 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:02:12 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:02:12 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pool plantings Message-ID: Here are a few ideas for planting around a pool: Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia) Juniperus sabina 'tamariscifolia' (Tam juniper) Pittosporum tobira (Japanese mock orange) Raphiolepis indica (India hawthorn) Viburnum japonica (Japanese viburnum) many of the palms Cycas revulata (Sago palm) Camellia japonica (Japanese camillia) Basically, look for plants that don't produce much litter, don't have invasive roots, and are not thorny. Once you have a list of plants you like, check to make sure they will thrive in the sun exposure and microclimate where you plant to place them. Recently, I've seen some very attactive designs with open areas around the pool and a native, natural vegetation around the area -- including cacti, agave, etc. -- very nice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mcp5457@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) > >could you please write and send some information on what types of >plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate >it. >Thanks, >Cira Passley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:11:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:11:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: Sherryl, Don't no if anyone else responded to your question. I would recommend Roundup as weeds appear. More importantly, apply a pre-emergent twice a year to keep weed seeds from sprouting and growing. Pre-emergents don't affect growing vegetation but they do keep all seeds for sprouting and growing (so don't plant them where you want to grow wildflowers from seed or where you want to harvest desirable volunteers like penstemon for replanting.) Birds, especially doves, do a great job of removing seeds. Of course, they usually go for a newly seeded vegetable patch or lawn area :-) I don't think plastic works. It soon works its way to the surface and then breaks down in the sun and shreds in the wind, looking very unsightly, in my experience. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Don Garnett , arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer >Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 > >Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas >where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? >We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm >creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just >damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot >dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the >dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep >the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite >route there? > >Thanks. > > >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. >Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree with few oranges Message-ID: It is well known that citrus trees do have good and bad fruit bearing years. Why not check out this website to make sure that you are giving the orange tree adequate water, the fruit crop depends on it. www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Shrubs Message-ID: <60.f70c495.2851a32b@aol.com> Lantana and Bougainvillea can be pruned nearly anytime except late fall or winter, they are both frost tender and since pruning spurs new growth which frost burns easily. I prefer to prune oleanders in the winter when they are not blooming so that when spring comes they will soon be ready to bloom. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From PatBern7@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:46:46 2001 From: PatBern7@aol.com (PatBern7@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 20:46:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106080346.f583kkh09741@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our tangelo and grapefruit trees are 3-1/2 yrs. old and very healthy looking, but are not producing much fruit. Our grapefruit tree had 5 grapefruits and our tangelo tree had 7 tangelos this past growing season. We have watered them deeply, applied fertilizer, but to date we hardly see any fruit on the trees. My neighbors on either side of us have trees that are loaded with fruit, even though their trees are approx. the same age as ours. What seems to be the problem? Is there some type of fertilizer that promotes more fruit? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:42:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:42:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees not bearing fruit Message-ID: <92.15c6882b.2851b199@aol.com> Subj: Citrus trees not bearing fruit Date: 06/07/2001 9:38:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: RodMcQ6 To: PAT BERN 7 Citrus trees typically do not bear much fruit until they are at least four years old. Have some patience, keep up the deep watering and fertilization as recommended and perhaps this will be the year when you will have a good crop of fruit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:45:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:45:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm tree care Message-ID: <15.15736b52.2851b275@aol.com> Michelle, The food that you refer to being poured into the heart of Queen Palms is Bordeau, a fungicide which many in the industry have recommended to cure a fungus called bud rot. However bud rot according to the University of Arizona plant pathology department has been practically non existant, they have 0nly two cases of bud rot in Queen Palms reported in over 50 years. The fertilizer to be used on palms is one that is specifically recommended for palms. Most palms tolerate alkaline soils but would probably do better in neutral or slightly acid soils.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From gusnaz@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 8 17:13:09 2001 From: gusnaz@worldnet.att.net (Gus Nelson) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 10:13:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender Message-ID: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou From nreyes777@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 21:11:56 2001 From: nreyes777@hotmail.com (nreyes777@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082111.f58LBuh12892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is approximately 24". Please suggest plants for the following conditions: 1. north facing shaded entryway 2. compact habit 3. evergreen I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new birds of paradise plants? Thank you, Noemi Reyes From clementedesign@mindspring.com Fri Jun 8 21:44:13 2001 From: clementedesign@mindspring.com (clementedesign@mindspring.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:44:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. From sliu@apsc.com Fri Jun 8 23:18:12 2001 From: sliu@apsc.com (sliu@apsc.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082318.f58NICh02621@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:12 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Planting and Flowers In-Reply-To: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: One plant that's nice this time of year is portulaca - kind of a succulent low-growing plant. It comes in different flower colors - yellow, orange, etc. and looks very nice. Since it's a succulent, it doesn't need as much water as some other plants but it does need occasional water. Purslane (also in the portulaca family) is pretty, too, but in my experience, it needs more water for flowering. I've planted these in the summer and they've done well. Ice plant (another low growing succulent) does well, too. These are annuals that will die when it gets cold. I have also planted vinca in the summer and they're doing nicely. These are flowers with nice green leaves that grow about 12 inches tall. They come in a variety of colors. But you MUST give them lots of water when you first plant them. After they're established, they need moderate water once established. These are perennials. You should be able to find all these plants now in garden centers and home centers. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of clementedesign@mindspring.com Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 2:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender In-Reply-To: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> Message-ID: I have some experience with lavender and have found that they don't do well in pots in our heat. I think that the soil and roots get too hot in pots. But lavender in general does very well here if planted in the ground and gets adequate water. I have about 5 different varieties. A couple of them seem to be better at handling the heat that some of the others. I have two very large augustifolia lavender bushes that are happy. I planted them last year from one-gallon pots and they are about 3 feet wide now and spiked the lavender flowers in the spring. Canary Island lavender does well, too, but there's no fragrance to it. But it has bright purple spikes that look great. Check out the High Country Gardens site http://www.highcountrygardens.com/shop/results.html?sku=&name_latin=&name_co mmon=lavender&id=bc00736eec84c2125d594e118edf42f1&quicksearch=1&quicksearch. x=32&quicksearch.y=8 These folks sell a lot of plants for the desert southwest and have a variety of lavenders with writeups. Maybe you can find yours based on their description. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Gus Nelson Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 10:13 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DEKJAN21@aol.com Sun Jun 10 02:10:13 2001 From: DEKJAN21@aol.com (DEKJAN21@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100210.f5A2ADh06238@Ag.Arizona.Edu> all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank you... From j_harrell@NetZero.net Sun Jun 10 02:18:46 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 19:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <3B22D905.98579AFB@NetZero.net> Dear Gardeners, My son-in-law fears he has lost his hardy tif sod - is this possible? It seems deader than a doornail - dry and wheat-colored. The sod was overseeded with winter rye, and as the hot weather came on, he quit watering it a little to "let the rye die" - was this lethal to the tif? Western Sod has told him to deep water it every three days, but it hasn't come back although perhaps he wasn't faithful enough to do it. Before he laid the sod, he spread some sand to even out the low places - harmful? However, the winter rye did fine. Any hope? Thanks, Jackie NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jun 10 03:21:16 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 20:21:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just noticed that a small patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting. I thought that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the archives. From what I read in other sources, it seems like I shouldn't worry about this. But I want to be sure because it's just starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the time, I suppose. (I don't think that I'm overwatering it. I give it deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the temperature.) I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks could give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just noticed that = a small=20 patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting.  I = thought=20 that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the=20 archives.  From what I read in other sources, it seems like I=20 shouldn't worry about this.  But I want to be sure because it's = just=20 starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the = time, I=20 suppose.  (I don't think that I'm overwatering it.  = I give it=20 deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the=20 temperature.)  I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks = could=20 give me.
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180-- From jbfeller@home.com Sun Jun 10 04:12:27 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (jbfeller@home.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 21:12:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100412.f5A4CRh17034@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I see a lot of tips for watering lawns and a lot of tips for watering trees, but haven’t seen any tips for watering both. Here’s my situation. I have 4 well-established eucalyptus trees in my back yard. 70-80 ft tall, trunks from 16" to 24" diam, branches out to about 15 to 20 ft diam, roots must be out that far, too. I periodically deep water them by letting the hose run and they have survived in spite of my inconsistent efforts. I am in the process installing an automatic lawn sprinkling system for a lawn area that will include the trees. Will the pop up lawn sprinklers be sufficient for the grass and trees or will I also need a method of deep watering the trees, like bubblers for each tree on their own zone? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:38:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Apple Care] Message-ID: <3B23CCCA.595BE74B@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 28602 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:53 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (63.226.138.6) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:51 -0000 Received: (qmail 27794 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO docs.advinfoc.com) (216.89.100.226) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from [216.89.100.192] by docs.advinfoc.com (NTMail 5.06.0016/NT4175.00.faf02432) with ESMTP id exqxcaaa for lindaguy@uswest.net; Wed, 30 May 2001 11:04:09 -0400 Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:56:45 -0400 Message-ID: From: "Helen Garrett" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Apple Care MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 1 (Highest) X-MSMail-Priority: High X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: High X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 What would you suggest to help young budding apples to grow? It seems that the birds are getting them faster than they can grow. And, what about bug control? Thanks --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:44:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:44:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palms] Message-ID: <3B23CE23.C8841642@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 6475 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (63.226.138.8) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: (qmail 504 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-r10.mx.aol.com) (152.163.225.106) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from VO38@aol.com by imo-r10.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.22.) id z.3c.c630e56 (6964) for ; Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 EDT Message-ID: <3c.c630e56.284678e7@aol.com> From: VO38@aol.com To: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: Queen Palms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall? I see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this? I live in Orange County, Southern Ca. Thanks, Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall?  I
see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this?  I live in
Orange County, Southern Ca.
Thanks,
Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary-- --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:49:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <24.14bc263b.28552e35@aol.com> You may have cut back too much on the irrigation to let the rye grass die and especially if the turf was put down last year. If the turf does not show any signs of life after watering for another two weeks it is probably dead. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees, watering when planted in sod Message-ID: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: <74.b90d994.28552e34@aol.com> Ursula, If the splitting of your Mesquite tree is on the bark only, it may be from drought stress and you should shorten the interval between irrigations especially during this hot weather. If the wood has started to crack then the limb should be removed for safety and to minimise damage that would be caused if the whole limb came down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 21:15:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 17:15:20 EDT Subject: Fwd: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <118.218220.28553d68@aol.com> --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? All parts of the oleander are considered poisonous 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? If the oleander trees have not received much water the roots will have grown a long way to get water. 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? Native trees can get by in the summer with little water but the non native trees will require deep water every week to 10 days in summer. 4. What is the origin of this tree? Oleanders are native to the Mediterraneam area and across Asia and Japan. Thanks, August august@rraz.net Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (rly-yc02.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.34]) by air-yc03.mail.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:51 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:27 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f5AJo3h05296; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:50:03 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.4]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with SMTP id f5AJnhh05227 for ; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:43 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 53937 invoked by alias); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu@fixme Received: (qmail 53886 invoked by uid 0); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Received: from vdsl-130-13-90-10.phnx.uswest.net (HELO qwest.net) (130.13.90.10) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> From: Linda Guy X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Arid_gardener Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF" Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.1 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary-- From fireplug04@excite.com Sun Jun 10 22:38:34 2001 From: fireplug04@excite.com (fireplug04@excite.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:38:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jun 11 01:35:33 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 18:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrubs and Trees on 1-1/2 Acres In-Reply-To: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - I'll let one of the Master Gardeners answer your questions but I do have 2 cents worth of information (primarily because I just came in from the outside and saw that some of my bushes need trimming because they've grown so fast). I'm not a Master Gardener. There are a couple of shrubs that do very well here and grow very fast. One is Cape Honeysuckle. It has bright green shiny leaves with many orange trumpet-shaped flowers during some parts of the year. It needs some watering. It grows VERY fast. Another bush - a little airier is Arizona Yellow Bells (tecoma stans). It has little medium green leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers during the summer. It also grows very fast. Needs some water, but not a lot. The less water, the less flowers. There seem to be two kinds - one with the yellow flowers that grows about 6 feet tall if untrimmed and one with orange flowers that grows as big as a house. I didn't know this and planted one of each next to my house and am constantly cutting back the orange one because I don't want such a huge bush there. But the yellow one stays at a good size. Of course, there's bougainvillea which is lovely. Just make sure that you buy the shrub kind and not the climbing kind. They need water when planted (and make sure that you avoid disturbing the rootball when planting) but once they're fully grown you don't need to water them anymore. On this one - the less water, the more flowers (bracts). On the trees, I have a mesquite (the kind without thorns - I think it's an Australian or Chilean mesquite) that I bought for shade. It grows fast and is nice and airy. You see these all over the Valley. They get to be quite big and have a large canopy. As far as planting goes, I wouldn't plant anything during the summer. I did plant some bushes during one summer and SOME of the plants survived but they had a hard time of it. I'd wait until it's cooler. Good luck. (I think that I've planted 1-1/2 acres' worth of plants in my puny little backyard. As the Hill Street Blues saying goes: It's a jungle out there.) Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of fireplug04@excite.com Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 3:39 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bacanorajoe@earthlink.net Mon Jun 11 03:31:23 2001 From: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net (J.O. Teague) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have any ideas here? From kberg@qwest.net Mon Jun 11 13:03:06 2001 From: kberg@qwest.net (kberg@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 06:03:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106111303.f5BD36h11275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! I believe I have what appear to be 2 beautiful ash trees growing in our back yard. The diameter of the trunk might be about 10-12 inches, I was guessing the trees are about 12 years old. We recently inherited some cats that are using the trunks of these trees as their scratching posts! The bark is starting to split and fall away from one of the trees but not the other. Could the cats be causing this or is their something else I should look at that my be endangering our beautiful trees? Thank you! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 14:45:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:45:44 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: The ironwood native to the Sonoran Desert, Olneya tesota, is the tree I know by this name. Is this the tree species you have? What part od Northern Tucson do you live? The ironwood we have here is frost tender and I am wondering if temperatures are too cold in your area for this tree to thrive. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "J.O. Teague" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying >Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 > >I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what >appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the >trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two >years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a >year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have >any ideas here? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:02:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:02:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants dying Message-ID: Could you give us more specific information? Do the plants wilt Do the leaves turn brown Do leaves and/or stems disappear with no trace Are there holes or chewed edges on the leaves Are leaves brown on the edges or splotchy looking Are there trails of plant parts leading away from the plants Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: DEKJAN21@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be >something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any >part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, >desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank >you... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:13:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:13:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes Message-ID: Grapes grow well in our climate with adequate water. They make great shade and usually produce grapes, but my experience is that the grapes are smaller -- as you've noted. Vineyard grapes are tended to produce large grapes -- correct pruning in January is crucial; after fruit set, clusters are thinned out and then later grapes from clusters are thinned again. One of our Master Gardeners has a vineyard in Vail and he could give you more specific information. His email address is: charronvineyards@theriver.com Linda Drew Master Gardeners >From: sliu@apsc.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) > >My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the >vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. > >What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:30:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:30:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen shrubs, north exposure Message-ID: Bird of paradise can grow in plentiful sun so you old ones may be leggy because of the north exposure. A few examples of evergreen shubs that do well in shade are: Abelia grandiflora (glossy abelia) Cocculus laurifolius (cocculus) Fatsia japonica ( Japanese aralia) Myrtus communis 'compacta'(dwarf myrtle) Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo) Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive) Viburnum japonicum (Japanese viburnum) Asparagus densiflorus "sprengeri' (asparagus fern) It really depends on the look you want. Does the area get direct sun at any time in the day? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nreyes777@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) > >I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of >paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is >approximately 24". > >Please suggest plants for the following conditions: >1. north facing shaded entryway >2. compact habit >3. evergreen > >I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new >birds of paradise plants? > >Thank you, >Noemi Reyes > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From jbfeller@home.com Mon Jun 11 18:24:39 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (Jack Feller) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:24:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trees, watering when planted in sod References: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Message-ID: <000b01c0f2a3$c6e8a3e0$c9390f18@phnx3.az.home.com> Thanks for your reply. I have used bubblers successfully at other properties with a shallow basin around the eucalyptus trees that hold the water till it penetrates. I've already trenched for the bubbler lines along with the sprinkler lines. How often should mature eucalyptus be deep watered like that? What should the diameter of the basins be? I live on a acre with a 6' block wall around the property. I want to plant trees inside the wall to make a green barrier above the wall. Also possibly around my house for shade. I want them green all year, low maintenance, drought resistant, fast growing, etc. I've heard that African Sumac is a good bet and have seen some and think they will work. How far in from the wall should they be? How far apart? How fast do they grow? Any alternatives to African Sumac that might work. Thanks, Jack ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 1:10 PM Subject: Trees, watering when planted in sod > Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 > inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep > water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless > you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at > one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with > built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could > continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist > > From IvaHD@mindspring.com Mon Jun 11 19:43:54 2001 From: IvaHD@mindspring.com (Iva Hacker-Delany) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:43:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Basil Message-ID: Hi, I started some basil a few weeks ago in a pot. It started off fine, I had 5 healthy looking buds, one died fairly quickly the other four were doing fine (now about 2 inches tall) but another started looking pale a few days ago, and when I looked closely I saw some tiny white specs up and down all the stems. I over all they seem to be growing fairly slowly (I planted them about 8 or 9 weeks ago and they are only 2 inches tall. I am worried that the white dots are something that will kill the basil. thanks -Iva From phg@citieswestpub.com Mon Jun 11 22:10:01 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:10:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jun 11 23:22:07 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 16:22:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010611160451.00ac2230@ag.arizona.edu> The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Ceasar Mazier, Director or Horticulture, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8156. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From stewart.clements@belden-cd.com Tue Jun 12 03:17:18 2001 From: stewart.clements@belden-cd.com (stewart.clements@belden-cd.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:17:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120317.f5C3HEq03790@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have Pearl Scale in my front lawn. Currently, there are two patches both 2-3 feet in diameter. My question is...can I kill the infestation by letting the grass die (stop watering the lawn)? If so, do I still have to remove the dirt within the infected areas? I plan to replace all of the grass so the only issue is whether I have to remove the dirt within the infected areas. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Stewart Clements From llfarrington@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 04:41:55 2001 From: llfarrington@earthlink.net (llfarrington@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 21:41:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120441.f5C4ftq10912@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be moving to Chandler with my company, Toyota Financial Services, in September or October from Seattle, Washington. I have a large-6'tall-common calla lilly that I would like to move with me. It was a gift and has been in the friend's family for several generations-at one time was at home on Mercer Island, Washington. I would appreciate any suggestions you may be able to offer to ensure a successful move and transplant. Thank you! From reeva5@qwest.net Tue Jun 12 14:26:04 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:26:04 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses Message-ID: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <001001c0f34b$9cb3cde0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Jun 12 16:30:50 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 09:30:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses References: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3B2643BA.3B86CE97@email.sps.mot.com> Are you sure they are burning? Please describe what the leaves look like right now. I'm suspecting spider mites, and not burning if you have not been fertilizing. Are the leaves turning yellow than brown, starting at the base of the plant, and working their way up the plant? Do you see little webs on the underside of the leaves? Do the bottom of the leaves look rough compared to the top? If so, I would suspect spidermites. The best thing to get rid of these is to spray the underside of your rose bushes with a strong jet of water two or three times a week. A water wand works really great for this. This will wash the spidermites off, and discourage them from coming back, as they do not like high humidity area's. They like it nice and dry and hot. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 172 Rose Bushes Planted! 100 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Randee wrote: > BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth > are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. From kapalmer@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 18:57:51 2001 From: kapalmer@earthlink.net (kapalmer@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:57:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121857.f5CIvpq16933@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I "force" bulbs planted in the garden, such as tulips, gladiola, iris, daffodils, to bloom in the fall instead of spring. With blooming in the fall and cooler weather I was hoping the blooms would last longer. Once, I had a gladiola that bloomed in October/November and the bloom lasted 2 weeks! It was just a fluke. I'd like to repeat that with other bulbs and have a nice fall garden. How can I do that? Thanks, Kathy From scott.howie@onsemi.com Tue Jun 12 19:38:43 2001 From: scott.howie@onsemi.com (scott.howie@onsemi.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:38:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? Thanks. Scott Howie From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Jun 12 20:37:36 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:37:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available AMENDED Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010612133524.00ab4ef0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week. The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week.

The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team.  The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds.  This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering.  Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events.  Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis.  Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred.  Related experience may be substituted.

To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_4131336==_.ALT-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:50:39 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:50:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26809F.FAACDED5@AuroraNow.org> I'm not a master gardener or arborist, but the Desert Ironwood, if relatively mature and established, should definitely not be on a drip system. If anything, a deep soaking once a month in the dry season would be all it needs. I don't know how long you've had this tree on the system, but you may want to reduce it's waterings gradually. Most wild/native ironwood populations only bloom heavily every other year. Next year you should have a good purple display again. scott.howie@onsemi.com wrote: > > We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? > Thanks. Scott Howie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:56:47 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:56:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> It sure sounds like it! What kind of weed killer did you use? If you ever use systemic weed killers like Round-up, any little overspray can affect surrounding plants. It helps to create a cone for the nozzle (top half of an empty gallon milk jug works well) to direct the spray only at the weeds, but its still best to keep your distance from desired plants. I was warned recently that "permanent" weed killers, such as soil sterliants, can spread through the ground slowly over a hundred yards killing everything in its wake. phg@citieswestpub.com wrote: > > About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From jennaz31@aol.com Tue Jun 12 23:02:01 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:02:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106122302.f5CN21q07319@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi I have 6 night blooming jasmine bushes that seem to be having a problem. The leave are curling up and they look like someone has bleached the ends. I do not see any pests on the underside of the leaves and thinking it may be an iron issue I applied chelated iron--I noticed that 3 of the bushes had buds in early May, but have not seen any since--when does this plant flower? I am watering 1 1/2 hours every 3 days. Thanks for your help Jenn From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 00:18:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:18:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <71.e47f7ef.28580b3c@aol.com> Stewart, The following article on Pearl Scale by Dave Langston and Sharon Dewey should answer your questions. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture PEARL SCALE Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Pearl Scale information: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC45, write to 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video Write: Sharon Dewey, Western Sod, P.O. Box 10610, Casa Grande, AZ 85230 Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional, a local turfgrass troubleshooter and a Master Gardener with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Dave Langston, Ph.D. is the Superintendent of the Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center, an Extension Specialist in Entomology with the University of Arizona. He can be reached at langston@ag.arizona.edu or write to 37860 W. Smith-Enke Rd., Maricopa, AZ 85239-3010. From dejay7@tampabay.rr.com Wed Jun 13 02:25:29 2001 From: dejay7@tampabay.rr.com (Don Dennis) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:25:29 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: <000a01c0f3b0$1daf5f40$1527a418@tampabay.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am trying to find this lant as I ws told it likes hot dry climates. If = anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am trying to find this lant as I ws = told it likes=20 hot dry climates. If anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0-- From libbyjeffg@earthlink.net Wed Jun 13 04:09:34 2001 From: libbyjeffg@earthlink.net (libbyjeffg@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:09:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106130409.f5D49Yq13322@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Mesquite tree that has been in the ground for 1 year. It started out as a 1 gallon plant. It has grown at a phenomenal rate. I pruned it last week to encourage more growth, 8 ft. Now the tree nearly lays on the ground when I take it loose from its stakes. Should I leave it staked up or try to let it grow in whatever direction it desires? From jdtiffan@aol.com Wed Jun 13 14:44:39 2001 From: jdtiffan@aol.com (jdtiffan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:44:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131444.f5DEidq10609@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a very large, shallow back yard surrounded by a block fence. What recommendations would you make for a hedge, against the block wall, that will not intrude too far into the yard. We basically want to hide the wall. In the yard we have very mature orange trees. Thank you for your consideration of our situation. From mgdlite37d@aol.com Wed Jun 13 17:18:46 2001 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:18:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131718.f5DHIkq06898@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have a problem of tiny ants running up and down along my planter. Planter has granite in it and lantana, bougnvila. Donot want to use harsh chemicals because I have great pet cat that Iwalk early mornings for a few minutes a day, then back in the house he goes when I give him the recall command. Must be a better way to control this other than chemicals. Oh by the way when the weather cools they(ants )are gone. Need some suggestions. Thanks Sal From nannygranny@netzero.net Wed Jun 13 18:35:38 2001 From: nannygranny@netzero.net (nannygranny@netzero.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:35:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131835.f5DIZcq20886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a Chinese wisteria about 5 years ago and so far I haven't had any blooms although the plant has grown up the side of the house. I know it takes awhile for the first blooms to start but I am wondering if the plant is lacking something. It is on the North side of the house and is shaded most of the day except for 2-3 hours in late afternoon. I read in Sunset Western Garden Book that it "blooms in considerable shade" so I went ahead and put it there. What should I be feeding or doing to it to get it to bloom? From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:08:45 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131908.f5DJ8jq26541@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:11:52 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:11:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131911.f5DJBqq27109@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I go about finding out what utility lines are buried in our yard, and where they are? Our house is about 25 years old, and I have no idea about the original builder. I live in Mesa. This question is prompted because shortly after we moved into the house, there was a problem with something in the neighborhood (water, or electricity, but I can't remember which) and whomever was responsible had to come and dig up a 6 foot by 4 foot area in our back lawn in order to get at something to fix it. I'm now interested in planting in that general area, and need to know what I can and can't plant and where. Thanks! Karin Crawford From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Jun 13 19:41:28 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] green beans not producing? In-Reply-To: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3B1F829E00003F64@phobos.email.Arizona.EDU> I planted green beans in tucson around march 15, and the plants looked great. But I only got a single bean! Not all that many flowers, and they just drop off. Suggstions? My cow-peas are doing fine. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant treatment, non chemical Message-ID: <14.1592a5b5.2859483a@aol.com> Sal, For warm weather use make up a slurry of citrus peel and water in your blender, locate the ant nest and pour the slurry on the nest. Another suggestion is to put a small amount of Cream of Wheat near the ant nest or by their trail. When the ants eat the Cream of Wheat they swell up and poof. This will take a little longer than the citrus slurry. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, staking Message-ID: If you still have the nursery stake which was tied directly to the trunk of the tree in place, then you should restake the tree with two or three stakes located about two feet from the trunk and tied in only one place. The tree must be allowed to move in order to strengthen the trunk. I hope that when you pruned the tree you didn't remove the lower branches. It is good pruning practice not to remove any thing from a newly planted tree for two years. Leaving all the branches on helps to strengthen the trunk so that it can stand alone. It is most important to water newly planted trees properly. so that the roots will grow deep in order to anchor the mesquite, a fast growing tree. Assuming that you live in the low desert ( Phoenix Area ) you should be deep watering the Mesquite once every 10 days to 2 weeks in summer. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture where you will find great info on pruning as well as watering on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Covering a block wall Message-ID: <10f.11ab235.2859483b@aol.com> Why not use Cat's Claw Vine to cover your block wall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Utility Lines Message-ID: <46.1622ef35.28594838@aol.com> A company called Blue Stake will locate your utility lines for you. Call them at 602 263 1100. If you want to know the location of each utility line, when you call ask them what color line represents what utility. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From appled55@aol.com Wed Jun 13 23:17:32 2001 From: appled55@aol.com (appled55@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:17:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106132317.f5DNHWq20047@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am attempting to find out about trees that grown in climates that are hot year-round. Do those trees ever lose their leaves and go dormant? I would appreciate any response you can give me or anyplace you can point me for further information. Thanks! From alamo@ultrasw.com Thu Jun 14 00:01:57 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 17:01:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 01:54:53 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:54:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, folks! Does this vitamin plant starter really work? I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference with my new plantings. I guess my question is: is it worth buying and using? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, = folks!
 
Does this vitamin = plant starter=20 really work?  I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference = with my=20 new plantings.  I guess my question is:  is it worth buying = and using?=20
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0-- From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 02:00:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: Your question made me do a little research because I'm a proponent of not feeding them very much, watering them little if at all, and I get lots of flowers -- but this is only after the plant is fully established in the ground and a couple of years old. So here is what I have come up with. My Plants for Dry Climates book says that overwatering and overfertilizing causes the plants to bloom little, if at all. However, Mr. Gordon Braswell (a former retired nursery owner who specialized in bougainvilleas makes mention that they need to be fertilized. So I guess the point is to find the right amount of fertilizer and not overdo it. (I fertilize and frequently water my younger plants, but do nothing with the older established ones.) You may want to check out Mr. Braswell's web page at http://bougainvillea.freeyellow.com/bougainvillea.html and go to the Bougainvillea Culture section. It's chock full of information. He also explains the 'flowering' cycle, which was something that had me stumped for a while until I read the explanation on his web page. Keep in mind that he lives in Florida, so conditions are little different there, but the basics should still be the same. Mr. Braswell is also very nice about responding to questions via his site. On the watering - if they're wilting, they need more water -- especially while they're still so young. I would try watering them three times a week and then tapering off when the weather gets cooler again. You could check, though, to see if they stay wilted into the evening. Sometimes plants 'wilt' when it's very hot but spring back later in the day. If they stay wilted in the evening, definitely give them more water. Good luck! San Diego Red is so vibrant; I love that strain. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Signa Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 5:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From agallar@prodigy.net Thu Jun 14 05:02:34 2001 From: agallar@prodigy.net (agallar@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:02:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106140502.f5E52Yq26314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had problems with my aptenia cordifolia groundcovers. They do great and grow for 1-2 years, then they get yellow and dry out from the ground up. This eventually kills them. Am I overwatering (1 time per week) or are there pests that attack this plant? Is there some thing that I can do to prevent this from happening, as it always attacks when the plants have matured and grown into very large covers? From plumbozz@home.com Thu Jun 14 13:50:36 2001 From: plumbozz@home.com (plumbozz@home.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141350.f5EDoaq09892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to let it go or if old canes should be taken out. Thanks. From Geri1947@aol.com Thu Jun 14 15:49:09 2001 From: Geri1947@aol.com (Geri1947@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:49:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141549.f5EFn9q24456@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Upon a recent visit to the Tucson Area I noticed all the oleaders planted around town. Since it seems to be that they do not require a great deal of care, we had been discussing for a while the planting of Oleanders at the entrance and down the fence line of our farm in Texas.I had planned on writing Texas A&M University but when I saw the article from the University of Arizona decided to write you. My questions: While Oleanders are poisonious to humans do you know if Cattle will eat them, and if so, are they poisonious to Cattle? Will they just avoid them? If you know the answer to these questions, kindly e-mail me at Geri1947@aol.com. Thank you for your time. Geri McCarty From rdstev8860@aol.com Thu Jun 14 22:50:15 2001 From: rdstev8860@aol.com (rdstev8860@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:50:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106142250.f5EMoFq06515@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 30 foot row of "bunny ears" cacti. The delicate yellow flowers were beautiful. After flowering, there are empty pods left. Can I knock those pods off and dicard? They look ugly as they sit on the cacti. Thank you for your time and patience to ge me an answer. Robert D Stevens From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:37:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:37:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blackberries, pruning Message-ID: We are trying blackberries in our Tucson garden for the first time. The blackberries that grow best in Tucson are primarily those developed in Texas, rather than varieties from Arkansas or the northern U.S. Here are some tips I found at Texas A&M: Pruning is necessary to maintain an orderly planting and to control diseases. Long handled "loppers" are best for pruning blackberries. During the first year, growth is sprawling and does not need topping. Although blackberry roots are perennial, tops are biennial. Prima canes are produced the first year and produce rapid vegetative growth only. Cut prima canes back when they reach 36 to 48" to encourage branching, as illustrated in Figure 1. Floricanes are the second year of the biennial cycle and bloom in March. The fruit ripens in May. After fruiting, the floricanes will die and should be cut to the ground. To make picking easier, some growers hedge the rows to a 4' height and a 3' width while others train the prima canes onto a vertical three wire trellis. Every three years mature plants need to be mowed to the ground to remove diseased wood and rejuvenate growth. This usually reduces yield the following year. It should only be attempted where irrigation can stimulate prima cane growth by the end of the season. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/blackberries/blackberries.html (includes illustrations of pruning) http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-325.html (information on trellis) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: plumbozz@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) > >Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the >proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that >followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to >let it go or if old canes should be taken out. > >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 14 23:49:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:49:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: <61.f2536d3.285aa774@aol.com> Ursula, During Master Gardener training we were informed that University of Arizona tests have shown that plants on which B1 starter was used did not respond any better than those that did not have the B1. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:53:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:53:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] false boxelder bug Message-ID: Your description sounds like false boxelder bugs. We have seen a lot of them this year for some reason. Usually, feeding causes some deformity on fruits but no real damage. For severe infestations, spray with pyrethrin following the label directions carefully since you are treating a food plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: eric_karin@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) > >We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they >didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed >that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. >What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 15 00:01:54 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 00:01:54 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: I used a search engine (google.com in this example) and entered the plant name for the search. The search returned 40 sites about the plant. Not sure what information you need. Why not try a search and visit the sites -- lots of information. It is a native of the Caribbean, hot but not necessarily dry. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Don Dennis" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella >Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:25:29 -0400 > >I am trying to find this lant as I ws told it likes hot dry climates. If >anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From aekozmiuk@hotmail.com Fri Jun 15 00:54:50 2001 From: aekozmiuk@hotmail.com (aekozmiuk@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:54:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106150054.f5F0soq24085@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be having a lot of figs soon. I don't know how to fix them. Do you have some recipes or ideas for me. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks From Krulich@aol.com Fri Jun 15 01:00:35 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 21:00:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question - How to control spider mites on tomatoes Message-ID: Hi, I believe my tomato plants are infested with spider mites (maybe not spider mites but definitely mites). The bottom area of the plants are turning yellow and dying and I shook a branch on some paper and there are mites. I hosed them off today, but is there a better way to control them? Also, how do I prevent tomatoes from splitting? I try to keep the moisture as even as possible and put mulch down, but no matter WHAT I do they split. Thanks, Tom From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Jun 15 05:39:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Rabbit Management] Message-ID: <3B299F7E.6C1BD742@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Resending to the list as I forgot to to "cc" it. Sue Bass --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <3B299F4A.B1196FF5@qwest.net> Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:38:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: tomeve@goingplatinum.com Subject: Rabbit Management Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom: The following link will take you to information on Rabbit Management. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm At the bottom of that page or by using the following link http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit1.htm you will find information on plants less attractive to rabbits. There is no guarantee that rabbits will not eat these plants, as a fellow list subscriber pointed out regarding the "illiterate rabbits" in her yard who do not seem to know they are not supposed to eat these plants. These plants are "less attractive" to rabbits and would be about the best recommendation we can give you. Sue Bass Master Gardener --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73-- From oldrpaul@aol.com Fri Jun 15 14:12:53 2001 From: oldrpaul@aol.com (oldrpaul@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 07:12:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151412.f5FECrq05690@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an eggplant that is two years old. The problem is that 30-40% of eggplants (fruit) have a yellow color. After being cooked they have a very strong, and unsuitable tast. What does the plant need? From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 15 14:23:41 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 07:23:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) References: <3B299F7E.6C1BD742@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B2A1A6D.3EBA213C@AuroraNow.org> Hi all, I'm the subscriber with 5 acres full of rabbits who haven't read this list. From my experience the last several months (especially this month, with rabbits at their thirstiest) I'd offer the following observations: I read elsewhere that a "rule of thumb" for rabbits is that they'll tend to avoid very aromatic or gray/green and/or fuzzy leafed plants. This, for the most part has held true. They don't touch my salvia clevelandii (which is such a beautiful summer bloomer!). They ate to the ground, however, a salvia greggi with light pink flowers and totally ignored the salvia greggi with red/magenta flowers next to it. Go figure. Surprisingly, they also don't touch my cape honeysuckle (they tried one small branchlet and left it there) or my lemon bottle brush. They've taken a few nibbles off my cassia but leave the pieces, so they obviously don't like it very much. They do make short salad order of young, tender brittlebush but leave mature leaves and branches alone--same with the fairy dusters. They don't eat the desert marigold plants, but the flowers seem to be high on their favorite lists (I had a nice patch going, which quickly became a sea of flowerless stems!). Also, not listed on their "favorites" list is ice plants and portulaca--fleshy succulents. Gazania is listed as a "less eaten" but they devoured a half a plant in one night here the day I planted it and I had to dig it up and put it in a container on my step to save it (it bounced back surprisingly fast). They also haven't touched my buddleia, salvia leuchantha, texas ranger, mex or red bird of paradise or lantana (although last year they ate all my young lantana, but we were in an extended drought). What has worked: I bought a roll of 2' chicken wire and cut it in half lengthwise which left handy pokey wire at one edge. I made 1-2' dia. rings for around my young, tender plants, pokey side up. The chicken wire is barely noticeable around the plants and I'll remove it as soon as the plants mature a bit (I later noticed park personnel did the same thing in Saguaro Nat'l Park West). Also, most of my plants were put in before the decomposed granite, which has helped some (just some) deter the rabbits (but unfortunately, not the stray bull from the neighboring ranch). Now that the granite, along with some larger rip-rap rock are layed out, I've also noticed more large lizards and even a couple snakes. I think the gila monster who seems to hide under my porch may also be helping the situation. There has definitely been a decrease in populations this past month. We also have established a "critter cafe" near a bird feeder away from the landscaped areas and the few extra treats of salad and vegetable scraps from the kitchen seems to also keep them a bit more satisfied and distracted. Just observations from my experience :-). Good luck! I totally empathise with your frustration! -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 15 16:07:41 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:07:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) In-Reply-To: <3B2A1A6D.3EBA213C@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sheryll - I have run into almost exactly the same experiences as you and also have used the half-cut fencing which is - as you say - hardly noticeable. I found out one interesting side effect of tiling my patio from the rabbit standpoint. I used to have the standard concrete slab and recently had it tiled with Mexican adobe bricks that are various shades of brick color, orange, etc. - Blends in very nicely with the orangy gravel. The rabbits NEVER entered the patio area when it was concrete but now that it blends in with the yard gravel, they bodly walk where no rabbit has gone before. So they've started munching on my patio plants now. A couple of other plants that they don't seem to eat unless totally desparate: jasmine and hardenbergia. If you trim it, jasmine can be grown as a bush, which is what I'm working on. They also don't like lantana, though they may bite off a couple of flowers now and then. I have some beautiful bush lantanas that have brilliant colored flowers that they stay away from. My favorite is the compact Cowboy strain - it's got gorgeous red and yellow flowers and is rabbit-free. But all this rabbit stuff is going to come to an end on Monday. My neighbor and I are splitting the cost of walling our properties, so unless the rabbits can figure out how to unlock the gates or use pole vaults to heave themselves over the walls, I think I'll finally have a rabbit-free yard. That's obviously not an option for you with your acreage. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:24 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: tomeve@goingplatinum.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) Hi all, I'm the subscriber with 5 acres full of rabbits who haven't read this list. From my experience the last several months (especially this month, with rabbits at their thirstiest) I'd offer the following observations: I read elsewhere that a "rule of thumb" for rabbits is that they'll tend to avoid very aromatic or gray/green and/or fuzzy leafed plants. This, for the most part has held true. They don't touch my salvia clevelandii (which is such a beautiful summer bloomer!). They ate to the ground, however, a salvia greggi with light pink flowers and totally ignored the salvia greggi with red/magenta flowers next to it. Go figure. Surprisingly, they also don't touch my cape honeysuckle (they tried one small branchlet and left it there) or my lemon bottle brush. They've taken a few nibbles off my cassia but leave the pieces, so they obviously don't like it very much. They do make short salad order of young, tender brittlebush but leave mature leaves and branches alone--same with the fairy dusters. They don't eat the desert marigold plants, but the flowers seem to be high on their favorite lists (I had a nice patch going, which quickly became a sea of flowerless stems!). Also, not listed on their "favorites" list is ice plants and portulaca--fleshy succulents. Gazania is listed as a "less eaten" but they devoured a half a plant in one night here the day I planted it and I had to dig it up and put it in a container on my step to save it (it bounced back surprisingly fast). They also haven't touched my buddleia, salvia leuchantha, texas ranger, mex or red bird of paradise or lantana (although last year they ate all my young lantana, but we were in an extended drought). What has worked: I bought a roll of 2' chicken wire and cut it in half lengthwise which left handy pokey wire at one edge. I made 1-2' dia. rings for around my young, tender plants, pokey side up. The chicken wire is barely noticeable around the plants and I'll remove it as soon as the plants mature a bit (I later noticed park personnel did the same thing in Saguaro Nat'l Park West). Also, most of my plants were put in before the decomposed granite, which has helped some (just some) deter the rabbits (but unfortunately, not the stray bull from the neighboring ranch). Now that the granite, along with some larger rip-rap rock are layed out, I've also noticed more large lizards and even a couple snakes. I think the gila monster who seems to hide under my porch may also be helping the situation. There has definitely been a decrease in populations this past month. We also have established a "critter cafe" near a bird feeder away from the landscaped areas and the few extra treats of salad and vegetable scraps from the kitchen seems to also keep them a bit more satisfied and distracted. Just observations from my experience :-). Good luck! I totally empathise with your frustration! -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 15 16:58:52 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) References: Message-ID: <3B2A3ECC.3F3707B6@AuroraNow.org> > But all this rabbit stuff is going to come to an end on Monday. My neighbor > and I are splitting the cost of walling our properties, so unless the > rabbits can figure out how to unlock the gates or use pole vaults to heave > themselves over the walls, I think I'll finally have a rabbit-free yard. > That's obviously not an option for you with your acreage. No, that's why I've decided to go the opposite route and try to help nature take her course. Besides the piles of rocks near the wash that have attracted a couple snakes, I plan to add a few tall trees for the predator birds (granted, it may be some time before that works) and clear away some of the thick patches of creosote across the drive in the "wild" section of the property where they like to hang out. I just ordered some devil's claw seed and sacred datura which I'm hoping will establish near the wash in that same area and encourage the rabbits a bit farther back on the property (unless they munch down the claws before they're sharp enough to do much good. teehee. I guess we'll see!). I figure if I work a bit to "relocate" the rabbits' (and ground squirrels and gophers) favorite hangouts farther from the house between the coyotes and vultures the populations should stay in check. I also know in a few weeks after the monsoons start, they'll have plenty of annual grasses 'n such to keep them happy. I actually like watching the bunnies hop around the drive and play, and as long as their populations stay in check they don't do that much damage. They've actually helped "prune" the low branches and leaves off a young feather tree which has really encouraged its top growth, so they do have some redeeming qualities. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From popart3@aol.com Fri Jun 15 17:45:12 2001 From: popart3@aol.com (popart3@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 10:45:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151745.f5FHjCq05214@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My bermuda grass lawn (Tiff) has patches which appear to be still dormant. Is this reasonable for this time of the summer with the high heat we've been having, or might it be some other condition. A friend suggested applying gypsum to break down salts in the soil. I have not yet fertilized for the summer as I was waiting for the winter rye to burn off. What would you suggest? From arizsmith@aol.com Fri Jun 15 19:42:10 2001 From: arizsmith@aol.com (arizsmith@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:42:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151942.f5FJg9q24167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My dicondra lawn has become a week patch. Is there a weeder/feeder available that will not kill what's left of the dicondra grass? Between the burr clover, spurge, and the stuff that looks like stunted carrot tops there is not much left. I live in Mesa and irrigate (old citrus grove) I would appreciate any general tips for keeping dicondra healthy. I have had lawns in Phx since 1959 and have good general knowledge of burmuda and St. Augustine. Thank you in advance for any help. From DandGBIV@aol.com Fri Jun 15 19:48:55 2001 From: DandGBIV@aol.com (DandGBIV@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:48:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151948.f5FJmtq25104@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I lve in North Central Florida. I have a peach tree that has small fruit on it. When the fruit gets close to ripe two different things occure. 1. Some of the fruit split down the seam of the fruit. 2. Just as the fruit gets ripe it develops a bruise type spot that grows very rappidly. i.e. covers half the fruit in 24 hours. Looked like the fruit rotted. Within about 2 weeks all the fruit on the tree was affected. Doesw anyone know what this might be. I had this happen two years in a row. This is the third year this tree has had fruit. From myrnamsw@quest.net Sat Jun 16 03:48:53 2001 From: myrnamsw@quest.net (myrnamsw@quest.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 20:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106160348.f5G3mrq22076@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This is the first year my almond tree has produced fruit. The fruit is in a green fuzzy like outter coating but I am unsure how to harvest the fruit. Do I remove the fruit from the tree now, then let it dry and crack open for the almond inside or leave it on the tree until the almond pops out of the shell. Some of the pods seem to be drying up on the tree. We deep water the tree about once every two weeks and fertilize the tree when the garden section of the Republic says to fertilize pecan trees. Hope this is right. I have been unable to find any information on growing almond trees in the valley so would appreciate any help I can get. I really would appreciate any help in this matter. Thank you, Myrna From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 16 06:58:32 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 06:58:32 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Almond harvest Message-ID: Here is information from our archives: Below are harvesting recommendations from Dr. Mike Kilby, Fruit, Nut and Vine Specialist for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. As far as care for the tree, treat them in the same way you would a deciduous fruit tree. See the tips in the Arizona Master Gardener Manual on Fruit tree Care: Good Luck Lucy Bradley >Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:54:18 -0700 >To: Lucy Bradley >From: Mike Kilby >Subject: Re: Harvesting Almonds > >You can harvest almonds as soon as the hulls >start to split and they can still be on the tree. You can harvest at this >stage by knocking the nuts from the tree and separating the nuts from the >hulls. In fact you want to knock the nuts from the tree so they will dry. > >Mike > >From: myrnamsw@quest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 20:48:53 -0700 (MST) > >This is the first year my almond tree has produced fruit. The fruit is in >a green fuzzy like outter coating but I am unsure how to harvest the fruit. > Do I remove the fruit from the tree now, then let it dry and crack open >for the almond inside or leave it on the tree until the almond pops out of >the shell. >Some of the pods seem to be drying up on the tree. We deep water the tree >about once every two weeks and fertilize the tree when the garden section >of the Republic says to fertilize pecan trees. Hope this is right. I have >been unable to find any information on growing almond trees in the valley >so would appreciate any help I can get. >I really would appreciate any help in this matter. Thank you, Myrna > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lmassey@bwn.net Sat Jun 16 16:52:18 2001 From: lmassey@bwn.net (lmassey@bwn.net) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:52:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106161652.f5GGqIq17205@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Two of my neighbors have female shamel ash trees and I have a male. Two years ago the females start producing seeds and, although I may be wrong, all of the seeds are going into my pool. I have read that in order to make seeds you must have a male and female tree. How can I stop the production of seeds? Anything I do has to be done to my tree. Or is my best solution to remove the male tree and plant something else? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Jun 16 17:09:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Software with SW Plant Palette References: <002801c0f40d$e36b8300$5e80d6d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <3B2B92DF.94BBBB8E@qwest.net> --------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not have such software currently, although I am slowly researching its existence as I ponder a career change into landscape design. At last year's AZ horticulture industry trade show, I saw two software products, which will probably be more beneficial to you in FL than for us in the desert SW where the soil is alkaline and the conditions oh-so dry. I'm speaking from the standpoint of the plant material library incorporated in the software. One had provisions for adding your own photos of plant material as I recall. These would be the same two products in the response I gave to a querent last year, [which is no doubt where you found my name] and I really don't have much more to add at this time. I'm just coming back from vacation and so am still wrestling with bushels of snail and e-mail. It would take me awhile to relocate this information. Contact your county's local cooperative extension office for sound advice on selecting materials for your new property and perhaps even hooking up with a local Master Gardener who has interest in landscape design. Linda Guy Master Gardener, Maricopa County, AZ Diane wrote: > Hi Linda,I found your addres on the internet, while looking for > landscape software. I'm hoping you can offer some suggestions. I > just purchased 12 acres in Florida with a small home and barn on the > property. Nothing has been landscaped, although there are numerous > trees. I'm looking for software that I can import a picture of the > property into and try out various looks before I invest money into > plants. Can you recommend any particular software? I appreciate any > suggestions you can make.Sincerely,Diane --------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not have such software currently, although I am slowly researching its existence as I ponder a career change into landscape design. At last year's AZ horticulture industry trade show, I saw two software products, which will probably be more beneficial to you in FL than for us in the desert SW where the soil is alkaline and the conditions oh-so dry. I'm speaking from the standpoint of the plant material library incorporated in the software.

One had provisions for adding your own photos of plant material as I recall. These would be the same two products in the response I gave to a querent last year, [which is no doubt where you found my name] and I really don't have much more to add at this time. I'm just coming back from vacation and so am still wrestling with bushels of snail and e-mail. It would take me awhile to relocate this information.

Contact your county's local cooperative extension office for sound advice on selecting materials for your new property and perhaps even hooking up with a local Master Gardener who has interest in landscape design.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener,
Maricopa County, AZ

Diane wrote:

Hi Linda,I found your addres on the internet, while looking for landscape software.  I'm hoping you can offer some suggestions.  I just purchased 12 acres in Florida with a small home and barn on the property.  Nothing has been landscaped, although there are numerous trees.  I'm looking for software that I can import a picture of the property into and try out various looks before I invest money into plants.  Can you recommend any particular software?  I appreciate any suggestions you can make.Sincerely,Diane
--------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Jun 16 17:15:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:15:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Free Pond Plants References: <10e.48d4b9.28412c84@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B2B943F.2B21ADCA@qwest.net> My hyacinths have not yet bloomed, but then, I purchased them at the end of the summer for additional plant material as the lilies abated. My pond books show a series of lilac flower spikes that appear in the summer. I'm going to wait to see how mine do this year, but the jury is still out in its determination of whether to keep these or not. They look very toasty to me with crisp brown edges, and I'm not enjoyint them nearly as much as I like the looks of those cute little water lettuce. Sorry for the delayed response, been vacationing last three weeks. May I suggest you purchase one of the many pond/water feature books that are available at a reasonable price in softcover? This would be a big help to you in selecting other plants and maintaining the good looks of your new water garden. Linda Guy Master Gardener JAWyse@aol.com wrote: > Dear Linda, > > I would like to thank you for the papyrus, water hyacinth and lettuce you so > generously gave to me. I have made a small water garden outside my back door > and enjoy it more than I ever thought. The plants are all doing well. When > do the water hyacinths bloom? Should I expect blooms this summer is it a > winter blooming plant? As you can see this is my first experience with water > plants. Again thank you so much. Jan Wyse From unlvmedstu@aol.com Sat Jun 16 17:18:48 2001 From: unlvmedstu@aol.com (unlvmedstu@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:18:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106161718.f5GHImq19385@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I was wondering if it's okay to put a queen palm in a large pot If so how often would i water and fertalize the palm. What type of fertalizer should i use. I live in las vegas and will plant the palm in direct north facing sun. thank you From daletate@swbell.net Sat Jun 16 19:10:23 2001 From: daletate@swbell.net (Dale Tate) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 13:10:23 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] are squash photoperotic Message-ID: Hello, I live in Lubbock Texas. Will this light that comes on at dark affect the way squash bears? Last year it really bloomed but did not bear. One or two of the tiny squash are beginning to look like they did last year. I haven't allowed enough time to really know if it is going to bear but I thought I might have a switch put a the light if I know that is a problem. Thanks Annie Kenny mailto:anniekenney@door.net From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jun 16 23:25:05 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:25:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know that this is a goofy idea, but I just have to ask. I planted two lantana bushes yesterday. I know that this is the worst time of year to plant anything, but I just couldn't help myself because I finally found the red Patriot Cherry lantanas that I've been looking for for many months. Anyway, I know that mulch prevents water from evaporating, as well as providing some nutrients. But I wonder if I could cover the ground around the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even more evaporating. This plastic would not be under the gravel -- just on top of the gravel with a hole cut out for the plants. It wouldn't be a big piece - just enough to cover the planting area. Then, after the plant has acclimated to having hot dry feet, I could remove the plastic (maybe in a month or so). Is this worth trying or am I inviting some other problem by doing this? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I know that this is = a goofy=20 idea, but I just have to ask.
 
I planted two = lantana bushes=20 yesterday.  I know that this is the worst time of year to plant = anything,=20 but I just couldn't help myself because I finally found the red Patriot = Cherry=20 lantanas that I've been looking for for many months.
 
Anyway, I know that = mulch=20 prevents water from evaporating, as well as providing some = nutrients.  But=20 I wonder if I could cover the ground around the plant with some plastic = (like=20 heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even more evaporating.  This = plastic=20 would not be under the gravel -- just on top of the gravel with a hole = cut out=20 for the plants.  It wouldn't be a big piece - just enough to cover = the=20 planting area.  Then, after the plant has acclimated to having hot = dry=20 feet, I could remove the plastic (maybe in a month or so). =20
 
Is this worth = trying or am I=20 inviting some other problem by doing this?
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:48:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:48:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown patches Message-ID: <28.16e2f38c.285d5870@aol.com> The brown patches in your turf could be caused by pearl scale, dig down at the border of the patch and look for tiny less than 1/8 inch in diameter pearls. The other cause of dead patches in turf this time of year is inadequate water. Insert a screwdriver into the ground after you have watered at the brown patches and the green grass, if the screwdriver goes much deeper in the green grass then your irrigation system is not applying water uniformly. If you are unable to adjust your sprinkler heads for better coverage then you need to apply more water. The early high temperatures have caused problems with turf, I've had them myself and when I spot a problem additional water usually greens up the grass. I would suggest using soil sulfur instead of gypsum, it will accomplish all that gypsum does plus it will help to lower the soil pH which you need to do if you found pearl scale. If you haven't fertilized yet do so right away, your grass needs the nitrogen. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:49:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:49:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen trees Message-ID: <65.15eb4603.285d587f@aol.com> Evergreen trees unlike deciduous trees will lose their leaves throughout the year. The exception to that would be if a tree is severely stressed it might lose all or part of its leaves at one time. Many of the desert adapted trees such as Mesquite or Palo Verde are deciduous or simi deciduous. The simi deciduous will lose their leaves when the temperatures approach freezing. Perhaps someone else can add to this. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:49:07 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:49:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash trees, stopping seed production Message-ID: Growth regulators are used on olive and several other trees to stop them from fruiting, however I have never seen the shamel ash listed as having been tested. I would suggest that you phone an arborist and ask them the question. They possibly have more current info then I have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From careyk@netzone.com Sun Jun 17 00:57:21 2001 From: careyk@netzone.com (careyk@netzone.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:57:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170057.f5H0vLq23572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I've done everthing I've heard about to grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., Airation, etc. I think something is wrong with the soil. I could take a sample in to a lab but what do I tell them? I need some prof. help. Please give me the name of a consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost in this so no difference. From carey@netzone.com Sun Jun 17 00:58:23 2001 From: carey@netzone.com (carey@netzone.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:58:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170058.f5H0wNq23653@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I've done everthing I've heard about to grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., Airation, etc. I think something is wrong with the soil. I could take a sample in to a lab but what do I tell them? I need some prof. help. Please give me the name of a consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost in this so no difference. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Jun 17 01:29:16 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 18:29:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings References: Message-ID: <006601c0f6cd$d3eb0fa0$5e50530c@j0r9501> I'd suggest an organic mulch that can "breathe". You can have some pretty bad odors build up under the plastic. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 4:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings > ...I wonder if I could cover the ground around > the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even > more evaporating. ... >... From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jun 17 01:29:40 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 18:29:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings In-Reply-To: <006601c0f6cd$d3eb0fa0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: Egads! That's a great reason to not do this. Thanks. -Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of olin Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 6:29 PM To: Ursula Miller; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings I'd suggest an organic mulch that can "breathe". You can have some pretty bad odors build up under the plastic. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 4:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings > ...I wonder if I could cover the ground around > the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even > more evaporating. ... >... _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KLScherting@yahoo.com Sun Jun 17 02:00:43 2001 From: KLScherting@yahoo.com (KLScherting@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:00:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170200.f5H20hq28009@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Why do tomatoes split? Too much water? Too little water? too much or too little sun? Thank you From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Jun 17 02:39:47 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:39:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Why Tomatoes Split References: <200106170200.f5H20hq28009@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <007901c0f6d6$cedb80e0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Probably too much water at one time after too long of a period with no water. There are also some varieties that are more prone to plitting. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Why do tomatoes split? Too much water? Too little water? too much or too little sun? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 17 04:12:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:12:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil testing References: <200106170057.f5H0vLq23572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B2C2E16.59184B4D@qwest.net> If you choose to go the route of having your soil tested, the following page of our website should be of assistance to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Is your turf well shaded [ie under trees, etc.]? If so, grass will not grow very easily. Linda Guy, MG careyk@netzone.com wrote: > I've done everthing I've heard about to > grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., > Airation, etc. I think something is wrong > with the soil. I could take a sample in to > a lab but what do I tell them? I need some > prof. help. Please give me the name of a > consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The > fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost > in this so no difference. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@U.Arizona.EDU Sun Jun 17 04:29:05 2001 From: jkandell@U.Arizona.EDU (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:29:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Early Girl last whole summer? In-Reply-To: <007901c0f6d6$cedb80e0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: My early girl tomatoes are turning brown and yellow, after generating some nice fruit. My celebrity is still green. My other plants are ok too. Is this normal? On a related theme, many of my plants seem to be turning dry and brown and dying: green beans, lima beans, ... Is this the result of underwatering? The 100+ heat? Is it normal this time of year? jk From jbsyankee@earthlink.net Sun Jun 17 04:30:08 2001 From: jbsyankee@earthlink.net (jbsyankee@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:30:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170430.f5H4U8q10929@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the best way to get rid of gophers without harming plants? I have an area between the house and sidewalk 3 feet deep with compost and soil amendments. The plants love it, but apparently so do the gophers. I came home this evening (June 16) to find several piles of dirt where the gophers had had burrowed. I'm sure it's gophers because a neighbor discovered one in his flowerbed just last week. Any information you can provide on how to get rid of them and keep them away is appreciated. Thank you. From gay@mmsi.com Sun Jun 17 15:53:58 2001 From: gay@mmsi.com (gay@mmsi.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171553.f5HFrwq29563@Ag.Arizona.Edu> hi, I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years, produces tons of fruit last year, but looks like hell. It has been declining for a year or so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. The soil is very sandy with good drainage (planted well with many amendments), the trunk looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late afternoon sun. Any ideas, is this treatable? much thanks! ken From tma2830@aol.com Sun Jun 17 16:59:48 2001 From: tma2830@aol.com (tma2830@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:59:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171659.f5HGxmq04129@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I was wondering if you could answer two questions for me: 1) Can you recommend a reasoably priced,reliable landscaper who will blow out my yard(all rock),trim bushes and weed for me, every other week. I also need some palm trees cleaned up as well. 2) Is there a way to keep wasps and hornets away from a swimming pool? I'd appreciate a response as soon as possible. Thank you, Dan From Landlightdesign@aol.com Sun Jun 17 17:01:34 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 13:01:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #129 - 16 msgs Message-ID: <38.17adb432.285e3c6e@aol.com> --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Diane Sierra Home has a program called complete Landdesigner 3D that will import a photo then allow you to add plants from library. The library is very limited and the results less then realistic. however the cost is low ($75.00) and you can also produce a 2D map of the landscape. There are other types of CAD programs like Design Imaging Group, Designware/Designware at night/Planscape. www.designimaginggroup.com This program costs much more, but it does a lot more with a much larger library, that includes desert plants like paloverde, mesquite, saguaro, teddy bear cholla, agave, ect. You can import and create your own photo library of plants, lights, whatever you need. This requires good photographic skills and a photo editing program. Numerous tricks are used to make a signal plant in the library look like more then one plant type. You might want to e-mail DIG and ask them for a name in your area or search the web under photo, simulations, landscape and find a co. that you can e-mail scanned or digital photo to along with your notes on plant location. * The simulations are useful at provoking design discussions, however I have yet to see any simulation that was as good as a good landscape architects minds eye view elevation sketch of a finished idea. I use the programs daily for communication between crews, supply, billing, home owners, boards, architects. Defining turf area, lighting locations, sleeve locations, pavers, tree locations all sorts of landscape problems/solutions that are hard to explain with pen or over the phone. MG Paul --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Diane
Sierra Home has a program called complete Landdesigner 3D that will import a
photo then allow you to add plants from library. The library is very limited
and the results less then realistic. however the cost is low ($75.00) and you
can also produce a 2D map of the landscape.
There are other types of CAD programs like Design Imaging Group,
Designware/Designware at night/Planscape. www.designimaginggroup.com
This program costs much more, but it does a lot more with a much larger
library, that includes desert plants like paloverde, mesquite, saguaro, teddy
bear cholla, agave, ect. You can import and create your own photo library of
plants, lights, whatever you need. This requires good photographic skills and
a photo editing program. Numerous tricks are used to make a signal plant in
the library look like more then one plant type. You might want to e-mail DIG
and ask them for a name in your area or search the web under photo,
simulations, landscape and find a co. that you can e-mail scanned or digital
photo to along with your notes on plant location.
* The simulations are useful at provoking design discussions, however I have
yet to see any simulation that was as good as a good landscape architects
minds eye view elevation sketch of a finished idea. I use the programs daily
for communication between crews, supply, billing, home owners, boards,
architects. Defining turf area, lighting locations, sleeve locations, pavers,
tree locations all sorts of landscape problems/solutions that are hard to
explain with pen or over the phone.

MG Paul --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary-- From devfore@aol.com Sun Jun 17 17:24:22 2001 From: devfore@aol.com (devfore@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 10:24:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171724.f5HHOLq06152@Ag.Arizona.Edu> need feedback on :pruning pineapple palm:tree is about 7 yrs old,and about 10 ft. tall. i have been cutting off lower branches only(as they come in contact with the ground) thank you From pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net Sun Jun 17 19:06:03 2001 From: pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net (pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:06:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171906.f5HJ63q13773@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often and for how long each time should I have my sprinklers set to water the lawn? Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:18:19 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:18:19 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Irrigation Message-ID: First, you need to know how much water your sprinklers put out in a given time. Set out several small cans (tuna fish, cat food) on your lawn and run your sprinklers a known amount of time such as 15 minutes. Measure the amount of water in each one, then average the amount of water in all the cans. This will tell you how many inches of water are being applied to your lawn. Note: if the amount in the cans is very different from one location to another, you will want to check for malfunctioning heads or add more heads if necessary. The following information is from a previous posting by Sue Bass: "Watering about once every three days is best for most lawns.Once you have done the measuring of the water with cans, you know the rate of delivery from your sprinkers. Even in the hot summer months most lawns do not need to be watered every day. Do you take a daily newspaper? If so, there is a Lawn-Watering guide that appears, usually in the weather section (at least it does in the Republic). It will tell you each day how much water needs to be applied to your lawn if it was last watered three days ago. For instance, in yesterday's paper it read, .55 inches is needed for Bermuda Grass if last watered 3 days ago. The lawn's water requirements vary throughout the year due to temperature, sunlight, and wind (just a few of the factors). If you do not take a daily newspaper, you can get the above information by calling 1-800-537-3578 which gives a recorded message of the daily water requirement. Once you know your rate of delivery and the water requirement in inches, you can use the handy conversion chart found at: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG. It will give you the amount of time you need to water in minutes." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:06:03 -0700 (MST) > >How often and for how long each time should >I have my sprinklers set to water the lawn? >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lizmiles@home.com Sun Jun 17 21:28:41 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:28:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Can I plant now??? Message-ID: <3B2D2109.485EEA53@home.com> I have been waiting for months to have the front yardof my recently remodeled Scottsdale home landscaped. Everyone I talked to was booked throughout April and May. Now that I am a week away from having someone available, I read here that this is the worst time of year to plant anyhting. How dumb is it to spend several thousand dollars on plants and labor this time of year? And is it a particular size plant (1 gal vs 10-15 gal for example) that is most vulnerable now? Or a particular kind of plant (succulent vs regular) that is more likely to die? I have a new irrigation system, which will be tailored to each new plant as it is planted. My plan calls for for desert adapted plants, but not xeriscape. The yard I am landscaping is north facing. Any help will be much appreciated. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:34:23 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:34:23 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, pruning Message-ID: I'm not familiar with the pineapple palm specifically, but your description sounds like good pruning practice. See John Begeman's column on pruning palms at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/3.1.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: devfore@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 10:24:22 -0700 (MST) > >need feedback on :pruning pineapple palm:tree is about 7 yrs old,and about >10 ft. tall. i have been cutting off lower branches only(as they come in >contact with the ground) thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:43:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:43:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps in swimming pools Message-ID: Dan, 1) Best idea is to get recommendations from neighbors and friends. I also check with the Better Business Bureau (best to get information on three firms you might be interested in) and check with the Registrar of Contractors. If you need pruning, check if the person is a certified arborist. Others may have better ideas - this is my approach. 2) One of our Master Gardeners just wrote an article about her experiences with wasps. She uses natural wasp traps in her yard to control them around her pool. I can send a copy of the article if you are interested. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tma2830@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:59:48 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, I was wondering if you could answer two questions for me: > >1) Can you recommend a reasoably priced,reliable landscaper who will blow >out my yard(all rock),trim bushes and weed for me, every other week. I also >need some palm trees cleaned up as well. > >2) Is there a way to keep wasps and hornets away from a swimming pool? > >I'd appreciate a response as soon as possible. > >Thank you, >Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:55:13 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:55:13 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, looks unhealthy Message-ID: Ken, We have been seeing many citrus problems similar to yours in the past few weeks at the Pima County Office. These seem to be related to watering and in most cases we recommend checking how deeply water is penetrating. If it isn't going down three feet, increase the duration. Since your soil is sandy, you may need to increase the frequency of irrigations rather than the duration. Also be certain to check that the trunk area is not in contact with soil. Dig around the trunk gently and you should see the tree's "crown" (where trunk becomes root) just below the soil line. If you have to dig down a few inches to find lateral roots, remove soil to expose the trunk to air. If you do mulch under your tree, be careful that mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk. How are you irrigating? Do you use drip or basin? What has changed from last year to this? Things like pruning, removing a nearby tree, construction, etc. Have you extended the watering area as the tree grows? That may also give us a clue about what is happening. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gay@mmsi.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST) > >hi, > >I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years, produces tons of >fruit last year, but looks like hell. It has been declining for a year or >so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. The soil is very >sandy with good drainage (planted well with many amendments), the trunk >looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late afternoon sun. > >Any ideas, is this treatable? > >much thanks! >ken > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 22:06:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 22:06:57 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers Message-ID: You will probably need to dig into the gopher tunnels and set traps to kill them. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on vertebrate pests. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate It includes information about trapping and other methods of control. The theme of the chapter is: PREVENTION IS LONG TERM -- CONTROL IS SHORT TERM find out ways to prevent gophers if possible. Good Luck! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jbsyankee@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:30:08 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way to get rid of gophers without harming plants? I have >an area between the house and sidewalk 3 feet deep with compost and soil >amendments. The plants love it, but apparently so do the gophers. I came >home this evening (June 16) to find several piles of dirt where the gophers >had had burrowed. I'm sure it's gophers because a neighbor discovered one >in his flowerbed just last week. > >Any information you can provide on how to get rid of them and keep them >away is appreciated. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jun 17 22:43:09 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 15:43:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning and Care of Palms References: <200106171724.f5HHOLq06152@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B2D327D.1B6DAFE0@qwest.net> You can find additional information on palm care, including pruning in the University of Arizona's publication entitled Arizona Landscape Palms. This publication can be viewed online by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener devfore@aol.com wrote: > need feedback on :pruning pineapple palm:tree is about 7 yrs old,and about 10 ft. tall. i have been cutting off lower branches only(as they come in contact with the ground) thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 18 01:54:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:54:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf watering Message-ID: The following websites should answer your questions about watering turf: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Landlightdesign@aol.com Mon Jun 18 15:33:01 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 11:33:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #130 - 17 msgs Message-ID: <121.707cf7.285f792d@aol.com> --part1_121.707cf7.285f792d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Summer time is the hardest time for new planting. With temperatures at 110 degrees, It's not hard to understand why. Installations require special treatment this time of year. Pre-watering planting holes so the water in the root ball isn't pulled out the second it's placed in ground and frequent irrigation are two things that can help. Most landscape installation contractors warranty the work for 30-90 days after planting (check your contract). Someone once said "two good times to plant a tree today and 20 years ago". If you plant now (and the irrigation system isn't turned off, even for a single watering cycle) most desert adapted plants should be fine, you my lose a plant or two but come Oct. things should look good. Paul --part1_121.707cf7.285f792d_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Summer time is the hardest time for new planting. With temperatures at 110
degrees, It's not hard to understand why. Installations require special
treatment this time of year. Pre-watering planting holes so the water in the
root ball isn't pulled out the second it's placed in ground and frequent
irrigation are two things that can help. Most landscape installation
contractors warranty the work for 30-90 days after planting (check your
contract). Someone once said "two good times to plant a tree today and 20
years ago". If you plant now (and the irrigation system isn't turned off,
even for a single watering cycle) most desert adapted plants should be fine,
you my lose a plant or two but come Oct. things should look good.

Paul --part1_121.707cf7.285f792d_boundary-- From Gay@MMSI.com Mon Jun 18 16:33:15 2001 From: Gay@MMSI.com (Ken Gay) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 09:33:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, looks unhealthy Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0F814.5FA69180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Linda, Thanks for your quick reply. More info below. ken > Ken, > > We have been seeing many citrus problems > similar to yours in the past few weeks at > the Pima County Office. > > These seem to be related to watering and > in most cases we recommend checking how > deeply water is penetrating. If it isn't > going down three feet, increase the duration. > > Since your soil is sandy, you may need to > increase the frequency of irrigations rather > than the duration. > > Also be certain to check that the trunk area > is not in contact with soil. Dig around the trunk > gently and you should see the tree's "crown" > (where trunk becomes root) just below the soil > line. If you have to dig down a few inches to find > lateral roots, remove soil to expose the trunk to air. > > If you do mulch under your tree, be careful that > mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk. Yes, there are 2-3 inches of forest mulch in the basin. I will move it back from the trunk and dig down to expose the crown as you recommend. > > How are you irrigating? Do you use drip or basin? This tree has 4 adjustable emitters about half way from the trunk to the drip line - runs 3 times a week for 30 minutes or so. It also has a basin, about 5 feet in diameter that gets flooded about once a week in summer, every 2 weeks or so in the winter. > What has changed from last year to this? Things like > pruning, removing a nearby tree, construction, etc. A little light pruning, no other disturbances. > Have you extended the watering area as the tree grows? Yes, it has been extended twice, once in the last year. The basin diameter is about 5 feet, tree diameter about 8 feet. > That may also give us a clue about what is happening. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > > >From: gay@mmsi.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST) > > > >hi, > > > >I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years, > produces tons of > >fruit last year, but looks like hell. It has been declining > for a year or > >so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. > The soil is very > >sandy with good drainage (planted well with many > amendments), the trunk > >looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late > afternoon sun. > > > >Any ideas, is this treatable? > > > >much thanks! > >ken > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0F814.5FA69180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" RE: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, looks unhealthy

Hi Linda,

Thanks for your quick reply.  More info below.
ken

> Ken,
>
> We have been seeing many citrus problems
> similar to yours in the past few weeks at
> the Pima County Office.
>
> These seem to be related to watering and
> in most cases we recommend checking how
> deeply water is penetrating. If it isn't
> going down three feet, increase the duration.
>
> Since your soil is sandy, you may need to
> increase the frequency of irrigations rather
> than the duration.
>
> Also be certain to check that the trunk area
> is not in contact with soil. Dig around the trunk
> gently and you should see the tree's "crown"
> (where trunk becomes root) just below the soil
> line. If you have to dig down a few inches to find
> lateral roots, remove soil to expose the trunk to air.
>
> If you do mulch under your tree, be careful that
> mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk.

Yes, there are 2-3 inches of forest mulch in the basin.
I will move it back from the trunk and dig down to
expose the crown as you recommend.

>
> How are you irrigating? Do you use drip or basin?

This tree has 4 adjustable emitters about half way from
the trunk to the drip line - runs 3 times a week for 30
minutes or so.  It also has a basin, about 5 feet in
diameter that gets flooded about once a week in summer,
every 2 weeks or so in the winter.

> What has changed from last year to this? Things like
> pruning, removing a nearby tree, construction, etc.

A little light pruning, no other disturbances.

> Have you extended the watering area as the tree grows?

Yes, it has been extended twice, once in the last year.
The basin diameter is about 5 feet, tree diameter about 8 feet.

> That may also give us a clue about what is happening.
>
> Linda Drew
> Master Gardener
>
>
>
> >From: gay@mmsi.com
> >To: <arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu>
> >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
> >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST)
> >
> >hi,
> >
> >I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years,
> produces tons of
> >fruit last year, but looks like hell.  It has been declining
> for a year or
> >so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. 
> The soil is very
> >sandy with good drainage (planted well with many
> amendments), the trunk
> >looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late
> afternoon sun.
> >
> >Any ideas, is this treatable?
> >
> >much thanks!
> >ken
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Arid_gardener mailing list
> >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
> >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0F814.5FA69180-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Jun 18 17:25:22 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2001 10:25:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers References: Message-ID: <3B2E3982.CD57851B@AuroraNow.org> > You will probably need to dig into the > gopher tunnels and set traps to kill > them. I've also used a carpet of chicken wire around the plants (I put mine under a layer of mulch) with success. I now put chicken wire rings around the outside of planting holes in the ground as well. Seems these critters just love the soft, loose soil around new plantings. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From dgage@ci.glendale.az.us Tue Jun 19 14:39:13 2001 From: dgage@ci.glendale.az.us (dgage@ci.glendale.az.us) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 07:39:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106191439.f5JEdDq27137@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a peach tree with a horozontal split near the trunk in a 2 1/2 " branch. The branch still seems healthy(has green leaves). I have propped the branch up. What do I do for the long run? Cut it off? I don't wont to. Close the split with screws or bolts? Any advise would be appreciated. And If not you then where do I for information? Thanks From www.aanthonyandsons@aol.com Tue Jun 19 14:59:02 2001 From: www.aanthonyandsons@aol.com (www.aanthonyandsons@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 07:59:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106191459.f5JEx2q29605@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two heavenly bamboo bushes. The leaves turn yellow on the edges. Then the next day the whole stem section and leaves are dead. I can't seem to make them thrive. What could be wrong with them? From raymond.tierney2@gte.net Tue Jun 19 17:16:38 2001 From: raymond.tierney2@gte.net (raymond.tierney2@gte.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 10:16:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106191716.f5JHGcq23138@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have pepper plants about six weeks old. Starting to show peppers but leaves are being attacked. Show small holes starting in middle of leaf. What if anything can I do? Thank You From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue Jun 19 20:47:36 2001 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 13:47:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Artichokes, When to plant Message-ID: It looks like a blast furnace hit my Tucson garden. When do you plant artichokes? - Jim From rcdemark@aol.com Tue Jun 19 21:05:34 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 14:05:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106192105.f5JL5Yq04807@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an Oleander Hedge next to the south side of my house. Part of the bush(0ne plant) the leaves are turning brown. It is just like it was sprayed with something. The leaves do not turn yellow then brown, but rather get these places on the leaves. I also noticed that the tips of the branches below the spots is also dying. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jun 19 22:15:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:15:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders with brown leaves Message-ID: Oleanders are very hardy and seldom have problems. Check out these possibilities: If the house is fairly new there could be construction debris burried under the oleander affected. Is it possible that there was a chemical spill or spray that got on the plant. Is the plant getting adequate water, is there a dripper plugged ? Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Jun 19 22:15:05 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:15:05 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Peach tree with damaged limb Message-ID: I would suggest removing the limb before it splits further and does irrepairable damage to the tree. Remove the branch with three cuts, first make an undercut 1/3 of the way through the branch about 1 to 2 feet from the trunk, the second cut is made from the top about 1 inch farther out from the first cut, this will remove nearly all of the branch and prevent the bark from tearing. The third and final cut should be made from the bottom up just beyond the branch collar. Check out this link on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From LIZTUHOLSK@aol.com Tue Jun 19 22:27:35 2001 From: LIZTUHOLSK@aol.com (LIZTUHOLSK@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 18:27:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] jacarunda seeds sprout??? Message-ID: <3f.16dcbf3c.28612bd7@aol.com> --part1_3f.16dcbf3c.28612bd7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi! I have a jacarunda tree that has a zillion seed pods hanging open. Can these seeds be sprouted to get a new generation of seedlings? I just love these trees and would like to "make" more of them, if possible. Thanks for any feedback in advance! Mike --part1_3f.16dcbf3c.28612bd7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi!
I have a jacarunda tree that has a zillion seed pods hanging open. Can these
seeds be sprouted to get a new generation of seedlings? I just love these
trees and would like to "make" more of them, if possible. Thanks for any
feedback in advance!
Mike --part1_3f.16dcbf3c.28612bd7_boundary-- From GoodWitchCindy@aol.com Wed Jun 20 02:10:06 2001 From: GoodWitchCindy@aol.com (GoodWitchCindy@aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 19:10:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106200210.f5K2A6q17292@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What does a "Lotus Blossum" look like? Where does it grow? Where can it be purchased? From bdebow@yahoo.com Wed Jun 20 04:18:52 2001 From: bdebow@yahoo.com (bdebow@yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:18:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106200418.f5K4Iqq01620@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Please help. I am a student at UC Berkeley in California. I am in a Technical Writing program. I chose as my final paper "Drip Irrigation System Installation". It is to be a step by step guide to installing adrip system for the back yard gar dener. The size of the area to be irrigated is appx. 15 x 20. I would also like to have a drip system for some planter boxes. Do you have instructions for the system instalaltion that you would share with me? Thank you in advance for your time. Sincerely, Brendah C. DeBow From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Jun 20 04:51:02 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 21:51:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation System Installation References: <200106200418.f5K4Iqq01620@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B302BB6.98E81962@qwest.net> You can find information on irrigation system design and installation in our on-line Master Gardener manual. You can view this by going to http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ then click on "Contents" and scroll down to the heading "irrigation". This should help you get started. Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ bdebow@yahoo.com wrote: > Please help. I am a student at UC Berkeley in > California. I am in a Technical Writing program. > I chose as my final paper "Drip Irrigation System > Installation". It is to be a step by step guide to > installing adrip system for the back yard gar > dener. The size of the area to be irrigated is appx. 15 x 20. > I would also like to have a drip system for some planter boxes. > Do you have instructions for the system instalaltion that you would share with me? > > Thank you in advance for your time. > > Sincerely, > > Brendah C. DeBow > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 20 13:02:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:02:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Artichokes, When to plant References: Message-ID: <3B309EDE.92C1B7EE@qwest.net> It's past planting time Jim. Usually put artichokes in the ground the first few calendar months of the year. They will die back to the ground when the heat arrives and return to your garden round about December. Don't forget our vegetable planting pubs for a quick reference check. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1005.pdf Linda Guy, MG Jim Bayers wrote: > It looks like a blast furnace hit my Tucson garden. > > When do you plant artichokes? > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 20 13:14:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:14:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lotus Plants References: <200106200210.f5K2A6q17292@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B30A1A4.E1127FEE@qwest.net> Lotus [Nelumbo] are relatives of the water lily and as such are also grown in the water garden/pond. However, they are immense plants and are rarely seen in the relatively small water features in most backyards. Whereas water lily blooms sit nicely astride the floating leaves, the spectacular blossoms of a lotus can rise on stems 3 to 6 feet out of the water. My average water lily leaf is about 8" across, whereas a single lotus leaf can be 2 to 3 FEET across. Therefore, they are best grown in very large bodies of water. You can check out the Greater Phoenix Pond Society to see who might be growing these locally http://www.phoenixpond.com/ Linda Guy, MG GoodWitchCindy@aol.com wrote: > What does a "Lotus Blossum" look like? Where does it grow? Where can it be purchased? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From msksas@msn.com Wed Jun 20 13:16:54 2001 From: msksas@msn.com (msksas@msn.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:16:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106201316.f5KDGsq18304@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How long could the soil be damaged from a termite company treating the soil for temites. Can you still grow a garden in that area and be safe to eat the items in the garden? Thanks Mike From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 20 13:18:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:18:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pest ID - Peppers References: <200106191716.f5JHGcq23138@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B30A2A8.9E8C3B25@qwest.net> Small holes could be bird damage, but we'd need more information. If you are in the low desert of Phoenix, some afternoon shade [shade cloth or tree] would be appropriate about now. The heat is so great that plants have a hard time setting fruit. Check out our Timely Tips column for June for other strategies in plant management and pest id/control. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/june.htm Linda Guy, MG raymond.tierney2@gte.net wrote: > I have pepper plants about six weeks old. Starting to show peppers but leaves are being attacked. Show small holes starting in middle of leaf. What if anything can I do? Thank You > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 20 14:18:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 07:18:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Jacaranda seeds sprout??? References: <3f.16dcbf3c.28612bd7@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B30B0C4.96C8BF09@qwest.net> --------------9ACF11D01B7871CE7030F72D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although I have not done so personally, I've no reason to suspect that you cannot grow this Brazilian native from its seed. Another thought is to watch the ground carefully over the next year to see if you don't manage to sprout some volunteers which you could transplant. You mention wanting alot of a good thing. Be advised that jacarandas grow to 40' with a 30 to 40' spread. Severe pruning is required to control its growth in smaller yards. If you were to permit ample room instead, you could achieve your objective with fewer trees that are given to space to spread that they deserve! Linda Guy, MG LIZTUHOLSK@aol.com wrote: > Hi! > I have a jacarunda tree that has a zillion seed pods hanging open. Can > these > seeds be sprouted to get a new generation of seedlings? I just love > these > trees and would like to "make" more of them, if possible. Thanks for > any > feedback in advance! > Mike --------------9ACF11D01B7871CE7030F72D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Although I have not done so personally, I've no reason to suspect that you cannot grow this Brazilian native from its seed. Another thought is to watch the ground carefully over the next year to see if you don't manage to sprout some volunteers which you could transplant.

You mention wanting alot of a good thing. Be advised that jacarandas grow to 40' with a 30 to 40' spread. Severe pruning is required to control its growth in smaller yards. If you were to permit ample room instead, you could achieve your objective with fewer trees that are given to space to spread that they deserve!

Linda Guy, MG

LIZTUHOLSK@aol.com wrote:

Hi!
I have a jacarunda tree that has a zillion seed pods hanging open. Can these
seeds be sprouted to get a new generation of seedlings? I just love these
trees and would like to "make" more of them, if possible. Thanks for any
feedback in advance!
Mike
--------------9ACF11D01B7871CE7030F72D-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 20 15:10:36 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:10:36 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites Message-ID: Mike, Could you find out which chemical was used by the termite company? Once we know the chemical involved, we can look up information from the manufacturer about the persistence in the soil and possible danger to food crops. My soil was treated, but I planted in the area within a few months and have never noticed any problems with the plants growing there. (These are a variety of ornamentals, not food crops). In my experience, just the soil under the slab is treated for termites. My plantings were at the foundation and showed no problems I could detect. I have a vegetable garden about 15' away and routinely eat the food - have not seen problems. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: msksas@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 06:16:54 -0700 (MST) > >How long could the soil be damaged from a termite company treating the soil >for temites. Can you still grow a garden in that area and be safe to eat >the items in the garden? > >Thanks Mike > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 20 15:17:32 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 15:17:32 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nandina (heavenly bamboo) Message-ID: Might be a cultural problem. Could you give us details about how and when you water, sun exposure, fertilising? Linda Drew Master Gardens >From: www.aanthonyandsons@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2001 07:59:02 -0700 (MST) > >I have two heavenly bamboo bushes. The leaves turn yellow on the edges. >Then the next day the whole stem section and leaves are dead. I can't seem >to make them thrive. What could be wrong with them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From meekf28@aol.com Wed Jun 20 17:04:03 2001 From: meekf28@aol.com (meekf28@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:04:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106201704.f5KH43q21339@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How to start an olive tree from scatch. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 20 21:30:06 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 21:30:06 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] olive tree propagation Message-ID: I found this on the web. Have not tried it myself. ========== Posted by: jimball (My Page) on Fri, May 11, 01 at 16:51 Here's how I did about 40 last year with probably 90% of them rooting. I took hardwood cuttings and filled one gallon pots with NEW potting soil (re-using soil can kill the new roots with a fungus). Then I soaked the pots throughly. I placed the pots under filtered light not in the direct sun. Then I cut my cuttings into about 8" lengths and dipped the bottom end in rooting hormore. I put two cuttings in each pot then I covered the pots with a 3 litre jug that had the bottom cut off. I used the ones that come from Wal-mart cola, they sell for 87 cents and I drink the cola. This creates a hot house which replaces the need to have a misting system. Then I water around the jugs to keep them moist, don't let the ground dry out or you will lose your cutting. It takes a couple of months for them to start growing and after that I remove the jugs on a damp evening. If you take the jug off in the morning the tender new growth will dry too fast and kill your tree. At night they dry slowly. I hope that helps. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: meekf28@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 10:04:03 -0700 (MST) > >How to start an olive tree from scatch. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 20 21:43:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:43:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant Propagation Message-ID: <61.f641c68.28627319@aol.com> There is a whole chapter on plant propagation in the Master Gardener Manual and available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From abailey13@qwest.net Thu Jun 21 00:29:12 2001 From: abailey13@qwest.net (abailey13@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:29:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106210029.f5L0TCq05909@Ag.Arizona.Edu> the owner of the nursery where we purchased a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it. We also purchased mulch which he used. We have watered it every other day as instructed and yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex- cept top two branches. We painted the trunk white and nursery guy said that's what caused problem. Any suggestions? Is it dead or should I use something for prevent or stop shock? From djhillis@qwest.net Thu Jun 21 00:47:09 2001 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:47:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106210047.f5L0l9q07704@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to make an area in my garden that is very lizard friendly. Any plant, shrub or small tree ideas that they might like? Thank you. Dennis From BLPLCF@AOL.COM Thu Jun 21 03:06:13 2001 From: BLPLCF@AOL.COM (BLPLCF@AOL.COM) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:06:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106210306.f5L36Dq23515@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have a "palm" (receipt said Roebellini; saleslady said Areca) planted in 18 inch pot. Trying not to drown it; so water about once a week. Frond tips look rusty; but new growth looks good. Help! Feed it? Water more? less? Thanks. From MEisler@peoplepc.com Thu Jun 21 03:09:15 2001 From: MEisler@peoplepc.com (MEisler@peoplepc.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 20:09:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106210309.f5L39Fq23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have 8 established asparagus ferns,which we fertilize and water frequently. lately we have had many dead sprigs and wondered if you have any answers. we are also losing a lot of vincas this year......any ideas? thank you, mary From oriley@wescap.com Thu Jun 21 13:35:27 2001 From: oriley@wescap.com (oriley@wescap.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 06:35:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106211335.f5LDZRq21831@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two ficus trees on the east side of the yard, one on the south side and the other on the north. Both trees have three cassia planted close by. They have all been planted for approximately five years. A few weeks ago I noticed one of the cassia was drying up. Within a week it was dead. When I went out this morning there were a lot of yellowed leaves on the ground from the ficus tree; it was windy but none of the other ficus trees (I have four altogether) lost any leaves. In checking another of the cassia is drying up. I usually water slowly and deeply the ficus trees about every week to 10 days. Could this be affecting the cassia. What can I do to stop the yellowing of the leaves on the ficus. So far the ficus on the south side with the three cassia seems to be doing fine. As an aside, at the end of my patio I have three Texas Sage and one of them dried up also. Could something be happening to the soil. I am inundated with cats in the yard and wonder if there messes could be causing a problem. From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Jun 21 14:29:53 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 07:29:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106210047.f5L0l9q07704@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3204E1.9F8C0471@AuroraNow.org> djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > > I would like to make an area in my garden that is very lizard friendly. Any plant, shrub or small tree ideas that they might like? Thank you. Dennis > I'm not a master gardener, but I do watch my lizards :-). Plants and flowers that attract bugs will keep your little reptiles fed, but what they really hunt for is moisture and habitat. A rock garden would be ideal for them. They like to travel around so they'll still wander off, but if they find a place with rocks, shrubs to hide under and bugs to eat, they'll be more likely to frequent the area. I finally finished landscaping my front yard and in the last month I've noticed a marked increase of lizards hanging out with the rip-rap rock and decomposed granite. I notice many more larger lizards now too (including a gila monster whom I suspect is nesting under our front porch since I almost stepped on a baby about a month after I saw her skirt under the porch). I see several kinds of lizards on a daily basis, including horny toads and geckos now. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 21 14:56:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:56:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lizard habitat Message-ID: Sherryl's answer is excellent. I live in a very urban environment and we constructed a lizard "safe house" on our yard. It is an area enclosing some shrubs and a woodpile, using field fencing on the sides and top. This gives our urban lizards a haven for sunning and excludes the neighborhood cats. Linda Drew >From: djhillis@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:47:09 -0700 (MST) > > I would like to make an area in my garden that is very lizard friendly. >Any plant, shrub or small tree ideas that they might like? Thank you. >Dennis > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 21 14:59:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 14:59:44 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, painting trunk Message-ID: Could you tell us what kind of paint you used? The usual recommendation is white interior latex diluted 50% or more with water. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: abailey13@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:29:12 -0700 (MST) > >the owner of the nursery where we purchased >a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it. We also >purchased mulch which he used. We have >watered it every other day as instructed and >yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of >the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex- >cept top two branches. We painted the trunk >white and nursery guy said that's what caused >problem. Any suggestions? Is it dead or >should I use something for prevent or stop >shock? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 21 15:11:43 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 15:11:43 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: Jeremiah, The samples came back from the Plant Pathology Lab. They did not detect any soil-borne pathogens. We are speculating that something has altered the previous water supply to the trees -- could be road work, building construction, a new wall, regrading, etc. Use a soaker hose to give these trees a good watering down to 3 feet. You can check with a soil probe to see how far down the soil is moistened. Any additional information you can give me on how the trees are normally watered could help us find the source of the problem. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "J.O. Teague" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 11:06:59 -0700 > >Thanks for the help. I delivered 3 samples from 3 different trees on >Friday. >Cheers, >Jeremiah > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Linda Drew [mailto:drew_linda@hotmail.com] >Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2001 9:38 AM >To: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net >Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying > > >Thanks, for the quick response. Sounds like the locaation >should be O.K. > >Can you collect a soil & root sample and bring/send it >to us? We can send it to the UA Pathology Lab and check >is for soil problems. Texas root rot probably isn't the >problem but perhaps their is another pathogen present. > >If you can, collect soil samples with some roots intact. >You will probably want to water first to make digging >easier. Dig down 8-12" if possible and put the soil samples >in 1-gallon ziplock bags and seal. Keep cool/refrigerate. > >Bring or send the sample to Cooperative Extension at >4210 N. Campbell Avenue, 626-5161. > >Linda Drew >Master Gardener > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From pampacker@msn.com Thu Jun 21 22:31:00 2001 From: pampacker@msn.com (pampacker@msn.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 15:31:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106212231.f5LMV0q17789@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My front yard is Bermuda grass. There are a couple large 4'x4'(?) patches of dead grass. I water 10 min/day at 7:10am. Is the grass getting enough water? Is it too late in the summer to re-seed? What about fertilizer? I threw down some fertilizer in April. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 21 23:35:55 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 19:35:55 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Asparagus Fern with problems Message-ID: <6f.17098f05.2863dedb@aol.com> Improper irrigation could be causing the problem with your Asparagus Fern, either over or under watering. Since the plant is subject to iron chlorosis which would be precipitated by over watering. You may not be applying enough water which would cause salt burn. Vinca are susceptable to the water mold fungi and should not be planted in the same bed in succeeding years nor should they be over watered. Check the stem at the soil line of a plant that has died, if the stem is shrunken its death is caused by one of the water molds. If this is the case do not plant petunias or pansies in the same bed next fall for they are susceptable to the same problem. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 21 23:35:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 19:35:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cassias dying Message-ID: <16.e429fb9.2863deda@aol.com> Your deep watering schedule of once every week to 10 days for your Ficus and the Cassias should be ok. During the hottest weather I would recommend the week interval for the Ficus. If you have several cats and they have used the soil around the Cassia for a bathroom it could be the cause of its death. I would suggest digging a shallow hole away from your trees and shrubs and fill it with mulch, this would provide them with a soft place for them to dig and hopefully they would stay away from your trees. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 21 23:45:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 19:45:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bermuda grass dying Message-ID: I suspect that your grass is not getting enough water. Insert a screw driver into the ground after you water, it should penetrate easily 6 to 8 inches. If it doesn't apply more water. Turf grass shoulld be fertilized once a month. You can reseed until the 1st of Aiugust. If irrigation is adequate then check for pearl scale by digging down 3 to 4 inches and looking for tiny 1/8 inch pearls. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 22 00:18:09 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 17:18:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, painting trunk In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have a follow-up question on this. Why use white? If the point is to prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a brown latex paint so it's no so visible. I don't believe that white latex paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown. Or am I wrong on this? Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:00 AM To: abailey13@qwest.net; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, painting trunk Could you tell us what kind of paint you used? The usual recommendation is white interior latex diluted 50% or more with water. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: abailey13@qwest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:29:12 -0700 (MST) > >the owner of the nursery where we purchased >a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it. We also >purchased mulch which he used. We have >watered it every other day as instructed and >yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of >the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex- >cept top two branches. We painted the trunk >white and nursery guy said that's what caused >problem. Any suggestions? Is it dead or >should I use something for prevent or stop >shock? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From southpawaz@home.com Fri Jun 22 01:59:32 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2001 18:59:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106212231.f5LMV0q17789@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B32A684.90A18FAB@home.com> In addition to Rod's suggestion to check the soil with a screwdriver, I would suggest that you check your sprinkler heads to make sure they are watering the areas that are struggling, they may need readjusting. If you'd rather not wait for seed, now is an appropriate time for laying sod as well. pampacker@msn.com wrote: > > My front yard is Bermuda grass. There are a couple large 4'x4'(?) patches of dead grass. I water 10 min/day at 7:10am. Is the grass getting enough water? Is it too late in the summer to re-seed? What about fertilizer? I threw down some fertilizer in April. > -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From jama1085@yahoo.com Fri Jun 22 13:49:39 2001 From: jama1085@yahoo.com (jama1085@yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 06:49:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106221349.f5MDndq27176@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My once healthy hibiscus in one day is drooping.I fertilize and water when needed.Thankyou. From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 22 15:24:16 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 08:24:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: droopy hibiscus References: <200106221349.f5MDndq27176@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B336320.A6CCD732@AuroraNow.org> jama1085@yahoo.com wrote: > > My once healthy hibiscus in one day is drooping.I fertilize and water when needed.Thankyou. > Hibiscus can be temperamental, but they're worth it. You don't say whether they're in the ground or in containers. Are you sure you're watering enough or maybe too much? I'd been watering mine every other day in the heat, but when I got a moisture meter (handiest $5 investment!) I found out I was overwatering them... it took almost a week for the soil to dry out enough to water it again. What are you fertilizing with? Hibiscus like palm fertilizer best. Like most things, feed 1/2 strength during these hottest months. -- Sherryl Stalinski (not a master gardener) From ken@karge.com Fri Jun 22 15:18:02 2001 From: ken@karge.com (ken@karge.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 08:18:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106221518.f5MFI2q07367@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a very small area to grow anything. I have planted tomatoes and peppers in an area 5ft x 13 ft on the east side of my garage. I had like three green/red peppers out of 5 plants and about 100 very small tomatoes, and a lot of them with "end-rot". I think I over planted the tomatoes, about 12 plants. I also need to know when to plant tomatoes, what months, and also information on watering. Thank you very much, Ken From DonFox@cybertrails.com Fri Jun 22 21:43:42 2001 From: DonFox@cybertrails.com (DonFox@cybertrails.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 14:43:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106222143.f5MLhgq12850@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there something that I can put around plants to keep ground squirrels from eating them? They go through chicken wire and over rabbit wire. From donfox@cybertrails.com Fri Jun 22 22:06:11 2001 From: donfox@cybertrails.com (Don L. Fox) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 15:06:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ground Squirrel Protection Message-ID: <003d01c0fb67$8ea2a180$1a092aa2@pavilion> Can someone tell me what I can put around plants to keep ground squirrels from eating them? Don L. Fox DonFox@cybertrails.com From TJ1855@msn.com Fri Jun 22 23:14:31 2001 From: TJ1855@msn.com (TJ1855@msn.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 16:14:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106222314.f5MNEVq27890@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am having problems with alderica pines on a golf course. They are over-sprayed with irrigation and are planted slightly deep. My question is...what treatment/fertilizer program would you advise to use? My first instincts are to innoculate with mycorrhize and possibly deep-root inject with a slow-release fertilizer(32-7-7 with humates), flowable sulfur, and possibly add a "soil conditioner" such as yucca extracts. Please advise. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jun 23 00:11:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 20:11:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Eldarica pine problems Message-ID: <11c.af544b.286538b8@aol.com> TJ, You didn't describe the problems that you are having with your Eldaricas so I cannot comment on that. If your trees are watered only by the turf irrigation system I would suggest installing a watering system that will deep water the trees periodically to encourage the roots to go deeper away from the hot soil surface in summer, to give the tree more stability and to flush the salts out of the root zone that are left there by the relatively shallow turf irrigation. I'll comment on your solution proposal: most all Arizona soils already have mycorrhize and if the trees are any age at all they no doubt have an ample supply of mycorrhize, however no harm will be done; deep root feeding is always beneficial; pines do not like a high nitrogen fertilizer so I would not apply the 32-7-7; sulfur and the soil conditioner should always help. A composted manure mulch is always helpful for pines and is best applied in the fall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 22 14:45:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:45:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Areca [?] Palm References: <200106210306.f5L36Dq23515@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3359F2.20EDDB0D@qwest.net> Plants referred to as areca are generally Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, so figuring out just what plant you have is the best thing to do before addressing cultural practices. In general, the best watering practice for container plants is thoroughly moistening the root ball, letting the excess drain and not letting the pot sit in a tray of water to be reabsorbed. That's when accumulated salts, from soil and fertilizers, becomes an issue. Check out our pub on indoor plants at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Houseplants for more good ideas. If you have what is referred to as Areca, it is evidently tricky to maintain, but worth the effort since its such a pretty plant. My reference material suggests this should be an indoor plant for the Phoenix area. Look for spider mites as a principal pest, perhaps this is your rust? Identification and management are discussed at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/s-mites.htm Linda Guy, MG BLPLCF@AOL.COM wrote: > Have a "palm" (receipt said Roebellini; saleslady said Areca) planted in 18 inch pot. Trying not to drown it; so water about once a week. Frond tips look rusty; but new growth looks good. Help! Feed it? Water more? less? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 22 14:20:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:20:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizard-Friendly Yard References: <200106210047.f5L0l9q07704@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B335447.15D798F8@qwest.net> In addition to Sherryl's excellent comments, be sure that cats and dogs are not in the area, as they will go hunting your new lizard friends. I have to watch my terrier at night, when she dashes after lizards climbing the house walls. Cautionary use of chemicals goes without saying. Linda Guy, MG djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > I would like to make an area in my garden that is very lizard friendly. Any plant, shrub or small tree ideas that they might like? Thank you. Dennis > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 22 14:45:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:45:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shasta daisies References: Message-ID: <3B335A0F.56B6D009@qwest.net> I do not have personal experience with shastas so I consulted the Sunset Western Garden Book, which didn't specifically address pruning. For my perennials, in general, I'm inclined to deadhead the flowers periodically as they bloom, and at least at the end of this cycle. But unless I know for a fact that severe pruning is beneficial, I wouldn't attempt what you are suggesting. Plus SWGB suggests that in general they prefer filtered pm shade in hot climates, and that some of the fancy varieties do best in light afternoon shade, period. I mention this because drastic reduction of foliage could lead to sunburn and loss of the plants. But, as I mentioned at first, this is simply an educated guess. Linda Guy, MG R2BESHON@aol.com wrote: > i am a new part year resident of flagstaff. the shasta daisies were quite > beautiful > this year. when they stop blooming, is it permissible to cut them down to the > ground level or should i leave a few inches above ground. i want to have > another > beautiful crop next year. also when should i plant wild flowers for next > year? > > would appreciate an answer. so far i have never received any responses to my > questions. From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 22 14:47:45 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:47:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, painting trunk References: Message-ID: <3B335A90.3C543453@qwest.net> An excellent question, Ursula, which I'm passing on to our citrus specialist in Yuma. Hopefully will have a response soon. Linda Ursula Miller wrote: > I have a follow-up question on this. Why use white? If the point is to > prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a > brown latex paint so it's no so visible. I don't believe that white latex > paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown. Or am I wrong on this? > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew > Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2001 8:00 AM > To: abailey13@qwest.net; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, painting trunk > > Could you tell us what kind of paint > you used? The usual recommendation is > white interior latex diluted 50% or more > with water. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: abailey13@qwest.net > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2001 17:29:12 -0700 (MST) > > > >the owner of the nursery where we purchased > >a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it. We also > >purchased mulch which he used. We have > >watered it every other day as instructed and > >yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of > >the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex- > >cept top two branches. We painted the trunk > >white and nursery guy said that's what caused > >problem. Any suggestions? Is it dead or > >should I use something for prevent or stop > >shock? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 22 14:33:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2001 07:33:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Star Jasmine References: <20010621010122.67350.qmail@web13902.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B335754.ABDD8A51@qwest.net> It may simply be a matter of your plants reaching the end of their bloom cycle. In Phoenix, this is May-June timeframe, but I can't be sure that star jasmines bloom at the same time on the CA coast. You would be better served by your local county cooperative extension office and their Master Gardeners, with whom you can discuss your cultural practices to determine if you need to adjust watering/fertilizing/exposure, etc. Check out the listing in the blue government pages of your phone book or try http://www.reeusda.gov/statepartners/ca.htm Good luck! Linda Guy, Master Gardener Maricopa County "Mark A. Fee" wrote: > Dear Ms. Guy: > Please forgive this intrusion. I found your name on > an internet search for Star Jasmine. > I am less than a beginner of gardener - this is in > fact my first year of ever growing anything - and I > bought (4) 15 gallon plants on 4'x5' trellaces about a > month ago. > When I had the plants delivered from the nursery, they > were covered with white flowers and VERY fragrant! > Now, all the flowers seem to be getting very brown or > are falling off... > Have I overwatered, or is this a natural growth > pattern? > I live in San Clemente, CA about a block from the > ocean. > If you could help me with any information or direct me > towards an answer, it would be greatly appreciated. > Thank you so much, > Mark > Mark A. Fee > markafee@yahoo.com > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From donplanteman@yahoo.com Sat Jun 23 20:20:44 2001 From: donplanteman@yahoo.com (Dejay Dennis) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 13:20:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] cancel my application Message-ID: <20010623202044.33727.qmail@web14204.mail.yahoo.com> --0-1804289383-993327644=:33725 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Please use this email as authority cancel my site from your emails as this is just another chatroom and I get enough garbage w/o this stuff. Thanks Don Denis Fla Certificate No. 47228082. www.eflashtech.com/pro/planteman Ready to fly. Create a great income. Checkout www.thepayline.com use dejay7_2001@yahoo.com to register. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ --0-1804289383-993327644=:33725 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Please use this email as authority  cancel my site from your emails as this is just another chatroom and I get enough garbage w/o this stuff. Thanks Don Denis

Fla Certificate No. 47228082. www.eflashtech.com/pro/planteman

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http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ --0-1804289383-993327644=:33725-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jun 24 00:18:39 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 17:18:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] cancel my application References: <20010623202044.33727.qmail@web14204.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B3531DF.FA89F264@qwest.net> --------------960654EE6747397BCF9FB949 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You have been unsubscribed from the Arid Gardener list per your request. Sue Bass Master Gardener List Manager Dejay Dennis wrote: > Please use this email as authority cancel my site from your emails as > this is just another chatroom and I get enough garbage w/o this stuff. > Thanks Don Denis > > > Fla Certificate No. 47228082. www.eflashtech.com/pro/planteman > > Ready to fly. Create a great income. Checkout www.thepayline.com use > dejay7_2001@yahoo.com to register. > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------- > Do You Yahoo!? > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35 a year! > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ --------------960654EE6747397BCF9FB949 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You have been unsubscribed from the Arid Gardener list per your request.
Sue Bass
Master Gardener
List Manager

Dejay Dennis wrote:

Please use this email as authority  cancel my site from your emails as this is just another chatroom and I get enough garbage w/o this stuff. Thanks Don Denis
 

Fla Certificate No. 47228082. www.eflashtech.com/pro/planteman

Ready to fly. Create a great income. Checkout www.thepayline.com  use dejay7_2001@yahoo.com to register.
 

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--------------960654EE6747397BCF9FB949-- From edieweber1@hotmail.com Sun Jun 24 06:15:05 2001 From: edieweber1@hotmail.com (edieweber1@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 23:15:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106240615.f5O6F5q08931@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in learning the name of a shrub I've seen at the Ft. McDowell Tribal Office and around Fountain Hills. The leaves are a very dark green and the flowers resemble pieces of torn Kleenex. The first time I saw the bushes I thought someone tp'd them -- my husband says he had the same reaction. This past year I had a good response to my question about a skeleton weed by a Master Gardener (I think) named Jean. Unfortunately, I deleted her response when I was trying to trim the size of my hotmail account. I'd appreciate hearing from her regarding these bushes. Thanks, Edie Weber From jurquhart@att.net Sun Jun 24 19:52:50 2001 From: jurquhart@att.net (jurquhart@att.net) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 12:52:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106241952.f5OJqoq01531@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a 24" box Fan-Tex ash about a month ago. I watered it daily for the first 10 days. It is now on drip irrigation,10 gal/hr.,for 3 hours or 30 gallons every 4 days. I notice that several of the new leaves come out green and have turned brown around the edges. I changed the days from 4 to 3. Did I do the right thing? Or is this a sign of over watering? From michelazona@excite.com Sun Jun 24 21:05:47 2001 From: michelazona@excite.com (michelazona@excite.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 14:05:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106242105.f5OL5kq06973@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am inexperienced as a gardener, but have been offered cuttings of the following vines from friends: ficus pumila, passion vine and ivy. I have no idea what time of year to get the cuttings, or what to do with them once i have (ultimately, I will plant them in my back yard and hope my dogs don't eat them!) I'm not sure if this is the correct place to ask this type of question or not. Any direction you can give me would be greatly appreciated. From JOThom2132@aol.com Sun Jun 24 22:07:22 2001 From: JOThom2132@aol.com (JOThom2132@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 15:07:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106242207.f5OM7Lq11038@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have recently planted 2 citrus trees. A "Verigated Eureka Lemon" and an "Arizona Sweet Orange" in March. They both seem to be doing well, but I have a question. Both have new growth on the trunk. Should I pull off these "suckers" or wait until a later time for triming. Both trees are about 5 feet tall with a trunk 3/4 - 1 inch thick. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 00:37:45 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:37:45 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning newly planted citrus Message-ID: The only pruning that should be done on citrus trees is to remove dead or damaged wood and to correct a wayward branch that is growing out of bounds. Anytime leaves are removed from any tree its food manufacturing capabilities are reduced. Since the bark on citrus trees sunburns so easily it is important to leave as much growth as possible. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 00:37:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:37:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree, newly planted---watering Message-ID: Sounds like you are watering your newly planted tree correctly provided there is adequate drainage. You are probably doing the right thing by watering every third day, do this for a month and then start gradually increasing the time between waterings. Be sure to keep at least one dripper over the root ball until the roots have a chance to get out into the surrounding soil. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 00:37:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:37:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cuttings Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on plant propagation in which there is a section on starting plants from cuttings and is on line at http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/propagation/asexual.html: Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Jun 25 00:45:36 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 17:45:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ultrasonic Pest Control Message-ID: <3B3689AF.3119CFB8@qwest.net> I have some friends who live in Apache Junction who have had problems with pack rats chewing up the wires on their R.V. two years in a row. They asked me about the use of ultrasonic pest control to keep the rodents away. I have no experience or knowledge of these devices. Does anyone have any experience or comments about this choice? Does anyone have any other recommendations I can pass on to them? Thanks! Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ From reeva5@qwest.net Mon Jun 25 00:51:00 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 18:51:00 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangerine tree Message-ID: <000e01c0fd10$e7a18440$85e3e63f@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0FCDE.9C5F3B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankI have a small (miniature about four ft)tree that I planted about eight year ago. It gets wonderful and abundant flowers, and the tiny fruit falls off. I deep water it every second or third day for about four hr. with a soaker hose. lots of the leaves are turning yellow white, and some of the very new stems are turning white. Is this burning or over watering? If I don't water as much the whole thing drops to the ground. Please help. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0FCDE.9C5F3B80 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <000a01c0fd10$e6f083c0$85e3e63f@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0FCDE.9C5F3B80-- From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 25 02:33:00 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 02:33:00 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cordia? Message-ID: The shrub could be little-leaf cordia, Cordia parvifolia. THe showy flowers are very striking, especially in the heat of the summer. Linda Drew Mastr Gardener >From: edieweber1@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2001 23:15:05 -0700 (MST) > >I am interested in learning the name of a shrub I've seen at the Ft. >McDowell Tribal Office and around Fountain Hills. The leaves are a very >dark green and the flowers resemble pieces of torn Kleenex. The first time >I saw the bushes I thought someone tp'd them -- my husband says he had the >same reaction. This past year I had a good response to my question about a >skeleton weed by a Master Gardener (I think) named Jean. Unfortunately, I >deleted her response when I was trying to trim the size of my hotmail >account. I'd appreciate hearing from her regarding these bushes. Thanks, >Edie Weber > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From jbentonaz@aol.com Mon Jun 25 03:36:15 2001 From: jbentonaz@aol.com (jbentonaz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2001 20:36:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106250336.f5P3aFq07019@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have bare spots in my 18yr old Santa Ana bermudagrass. This occurs in shady areas. What would be a good grass to use in addition to the Santa Ana? I have heard that St. Augustinegrass or zoysiagrass would work well. What is your opinion? What are the advantages and disadvantages? I live in Scottsdale, Az. From frostinaz@msn.com Mon Jun 25 16:21:52 2001 From: frostinaz@msn.com (J. Michael Frost) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 09:21:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning of Citrus Trees Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C0FD58.4560E020 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" At what time of the year may unsightly growth be pruned from citrus trees? What is the optimum time of the year to prune citrus trees? ------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C0FD58.4560E020 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
At what time o= f the year may unsightly growth be pruned from citrus trees?
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What is the optimum time of the year to prune citrus tre= es?
 

------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C0FD58.4560E020-- From jpchan@us.ibm.com Mon Jun 25 18:20:50 2001 From: jpchan@us.ibm.com (jpchan@us.ibm.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 11:20:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106251820.f5PIKoq15476@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I have a house in Phoenix Arizona and the drip system for all of the plants front and back was set up on 1 phase of the dripper. I have 6 mature pine trees, Ficus, olianders, palms, and a bunch of misc schrubs etc. I attempted to plant some color in the yard and they just die out. All of them need different amounts of water. How would you suggest I set up the timer to run and what emitters should I be using etc. I did loose a pine last year because of overwatering. Thank you. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 22:22:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:22:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees and shrubs Message-ID: <34.16fabc41.286913b4@aol.com> If I under stand you correctly you only have a single circuit watering trees shrubs and plants. It is impossible to water everything properly on a single circuit. The trees should be on a cycle in the summer of water every one to three weeks and if you have annuals they may requiure water every two to three days. My suggestion would be to install one or two more circuits so that plants with like watering requiurements are on the same circuit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 22:22:42 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:22:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning of Citrus Trees Message-ID: The only pruning that should be done on citrus trees is to remove dead or damaged wood and to correct a wayward branch that is growing out of bounds. Anytime leaves are removed from any tree its food manufacturing capabilities are reduced. Since the bark on citrus trees sunburns so easily it is important to leave as much growth as possible. If you must prune then late winter would be the preferred time to prune. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener _______________________________________________ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 25 22:22:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 18:22:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangerine tree Message-ID: You are over watering your tangerine tree. Check out this website for info on proper watering: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From JKTracy@prodigy.net Mon Jun 25 22:52:44 2001 From: JKTracy@prodigy.net (JKTracy@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 15:52:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106252252.f5PMqiq03372@Ag.Arizona.Edu> The pebble-tec in our comunity spa is being discolored by a greenish blue (copper sulphate I believe) color. Is there a way that we can test for this or find out what is causing it before it does major damage to our spa or equipment? Thank you, Joe Tracy From Ldtempe@aol.com Tue Jun 26 00:06:50 2001 From: Ldtempe@aol.com (Ldtempe@aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:06:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106260006.f5Q06oq15773@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two Brazilian Pepper trees that are about 2 years old. I have never been able to get the watering right. I am told by the nursery to water them about every 10 days (Deep Water) This doesn't seem to work, the leaves turn yellow, and last summer the leaves completely fell off one of the trees. I was told this happened because I under watered the tree. It is doing OK now, but again, I have trouble with yellowing and falling leaves.I now water them every two weeks with a drip hose to the depth of about 3 feet or so. Any hints? Thanks, Richard Long Tempe, Arizona From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jun 26 14:01:46 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:01:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water Testing References: <200106252252.f5PMqiq03372@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3895CA.2205CA59@qwest.net> Have you started with a local pool & patio store, which may have seen this already and which normally offer a water testing services? If you simply want the water tested, you could also try one of these labs http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Linda Guy, MG JKTracy@prodigy.net wrote: > The pebble-tec in our comunity spa is being discolored by a greenish blue (copper sulphate I believe) color. Is there a way that we can test for this or find out what is causing it before it does major damage to our spa or equipment? > Thank you, > Joe Tracy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jun 26 14:06:40 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:06:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf in the Shade References: <200106250336.f5P3aFq07019@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3896F0.2F379F29@qwest.net> There is an excellent discussion of the problems bermuda has with shade in an older issue of our bimonthly publication, the Horticulture Commuicator. The author, Mike Hills, is a turf agronomist by day, Master Gardener and all-around swell guy always. It starts on page 14. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/hortcom.htm Linda Guy, MG jbentonaz@aol.com wrote: > I have bare spots in my 18yr old Santa Ana bermudagrass. This occurs in shady areas. What would be a good grass to use in addition to the Santa Ana? I have heard that St. Augustinegrass or zoysiagrass would work well. What is your opinion? What are the advantages and disadvantages? I live in Scottsdale, Az. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jun 26 14:13:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:13:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ground Squirrels References: <200106222143.f5MLhgq12850@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B389877.B26635D9@qwest.net> There is a link from this page to a discussion of ground squirrel management strategies. http://deal.unl.edu/icwdm/problemsDetail.shtml?catagory=Rodents It suggests you use the hardware cloth mesh 24" high. 18" above, and 6" below ground. Good luck! Linda Guy, MG DonFox@cybertrails.com wrote: > Is there something that I can put around plants to keep ground squirrels from eating them? > They go through chicken wire and over rabbit wire. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Jun 26 14:18:25 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 07:18:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Planting Strategies References: <200106221518.f5MFI2q07367@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3899B0.774584C2@qwest.net> The publications page of our website would be a good start for you. Check out the Vegetable section, particularly the planting guides which you can view online. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Another helpful resource on our website is the Timely Tips section which discusses the dos and don'ts by calendar month, as well as what you can expect in the way of the good, the bad and the ugly! Often there will be a link to a detailed discussion of your issue, elsewhere in the site. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm For example, if you look at the trouble shooting section in the month of June, you will see under fruiting problems a link to the blossom end rot discussion. Chin up! At least you got as far as you did! Linda Guy, MG ken@karge.com wrote: > I have a very small area to grow anything. I have planted tomatoes and peppers in an area 5ft x 13 ft on the east side of my garage. I had like three green/red peppers out of 5 plants and about 100 very small tomatoes, and a lot of them with "end-rot". I think I over planted the tomatoes, about 12 plants. > I also need to know when to plant tomatoes, what months, and also information on watering. > Thank you very much, > Ken > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dlf3b@AOL.com Tue Jun 26 15:38:12 2001 From: dlf3b@AOL.com (dlf3b@AOL.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:38:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261538.f5QFcBq13633@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I read your description about pearl scale and we do not have it. We want to prevent getting it. We have 7400 square feet of Tifway. We mow our own lawn with our own equipment, except in spring when we rent a dethatching mower and sometimes a reel lawn mower. You suggested cleaning the equipment. What should we use to clean the mowers and how (should we clean just the blades or the wheels or the whole machine)? Thank you for your time in responding, Deidre dlf3b@AOL.com From ShadesOfArt@mindspring.com Tue Jun 26 15:38:50 2001 From: ShadesOfArt@mindspring.com (ShadesOfArt@mindspring.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:38:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261538.f5QFcoq13716@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In our front yard we have a Carob Tree that is approximately 30 years old. We have a rock lawn so we slow water it once a week during the dry months. Beginning last year we noticed a group of branches dying on the south side. The leaves were noticeably deformed in several areas. During the winter months the tree seemed to stop dying, although it lost a lot of leaves. This spring new growth looked very healthy, but I noticed no Carob pods forming. It is now again beginning to die in one area. I would like to save the tree and have called several tree experts only to be told the following: --the tree is too old --the next door neighbor on the south has oversprayed their yard to control weeds --that the tree has termites or a fungus and should be removed Last year we did have one of these companies bury charcoal in some yard areas with no results. I have tried calling the tree care speacialist in the Yellow Pages with either no reply or from those that want a lot of money. I have had a tree care company spray the tree every fall for the past 4 yeras prior to having problems. This was to eliminate the pods when the carob blossoms appear. Do you have a suggestion or a direction to save the tree? I would really appreciate any help you can give me. Thank you. Adin Shade 6314 N. Granite Reef Scottsdale, Arizona 85250 480-951-0706 ShadesOfArt@mindspring.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Jun 26 15:56:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:56:25 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lizards (chuckwallas) Message-ID: Sounds like a fascinating "problem" to have! This site has information about chuckwallas: http://www.sdnhm.org/fieldguide/herps/saur-ate.html They prefer boulder-strewn areas, so moving the stones may help. They are particularly fond of yellow flowers, so perhaps other flower colors would be less enticing. Linda >From: "Dale/Shirley Hopkins" >To: "Linda Drew" >Subject: lizards >Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 08:09:45 -0000 > >After receiving your email mentioning iguana I did some more research and >think I have identified the offending lizard eating my flowers. It fits >the descriptions I have read of the Arizona chuckwalla, a member of the >Iguana family. I have used stones from around my property to surround my >bushes, trees, and flower beds to fit the landscape. Could I have created >an environmentally friendly place for the chuckwalla? Now how do I keep >them from eating my plants? Thanks. Shirley _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From annetter11@msn.com Tue Jun 26 18:09:40 2001 From: annetter11@msn.com (annetter11@msn.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:09:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261809.f5QI9eq10326@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a free stone peach tree that is between 5 and 7 years of age. It bloomed and was doing great until about 3 or 4 weeks ago. It was full of fruit and some of the branches started to die. We cut them off as they died and we picked all the fruit. The process hasn't stopped. A new branch is dying right after we trim off the last dead one. Any suggestions on what might be causing this. We treated our other peach tree and apricot tree the same way as this tree and they are both doing wonderfully. I hope the problem doesn't spread to them too!!! Thank you for you time> From annetter11@msn.com Tue Jun 26 18:10:32 2001 From: annetter11@msn.com (annetter11@msn.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:10:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261810.f5QIAWq10507@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a free stone peach tree that is between 5 and 7 years of age. It bloomed and was doing great until about 3 or 4 weeks ago. It was full of fruit and some of the branches started to die. We cut them off as they died and we picked all the fruit. The process hasn't stopped. A new branch is dying right after we trim off the last dead one. Any suggestions on what might be causing this. We treated our other peach tree and apricot tree the same way as this tree and they are both doing wonderfully. I hope the problem doesn't spread to them too!!! Thank you for you time> Annette Randall From psevin4771@aol.com Tue Jun 26 19:10:52 2001 From: psevin4771@aol.com (psevin4771@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:10:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261910.f5QJAqq20870@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a texas mountain laurel about 5 years ago. It is close to the house and i do not want it to grow into a tree, can I prune it so that it will grow into a smaller bush? If so, when? Also, I am having trouble finding flowers that can stand the summer heat but grow in the shade. I have a garden facing west that receives little to no sun because of shade trees. Any suggestions? From T_Vail@msn.com Tue Jun 26 19:14:24 2001 From: T_Vail@msn.com (T_Vail@msn.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:14:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261914.f5QJEOq21352@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I hope you can help me. I live in Columbia, South Carolina, and My home seems to be infested with these springtails. I have had an exterminator out here twice and these things are not going away. They seem now to be moving from room to room. Is there anything you can tell me that would get rid of these bugs? I have lived in Columbia and all around Columbia my whole life and never seen anything like this. The exterminator had never even heard or seen these bugs before either. Any information you could provide me with I would greatly appreciate. Thank you, Melissa Vail From karen.detorres@honeywell.com Tue Jun 26 19:16:27 2001 From: karen.detorres@honeywell.com (karen.detorres@honeywell.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:16:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106261916.f5QJGRq21725@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I hope you can help... One day last week and once in mid-May, the desert vegetation around my house was teeming with small flying gnat-like bugs that managed to get through the weep holes in my windows and through the cracks in my sliding doors. If given the opportunity, they stung. They eventually died on the sunny window sills and thresholds of the sliders. There were THOUSANDS of these small dead pests. What are they and how can I prevent them from coming back? Thanks, Karen Gold Canyon From kscravens@earthlink.net Tue Jun 26 20:10:04 2001 From: kscravens@earthlink.net (kscravens@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:10:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106262010.f5QKA4q00313@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are new to AZ and we have several different cacti. A couple don't look healthy. I would like some direction and links (with photos) to identify the cactus and then get a description of the symptoms and treatment. I have surfed and surfed this site and links with no success. From lagreenhill@earthlink.net Tue Jun 26 20:18:10 2001 From: lagreenhill@earthlink.net (lagreenhill@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:18:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106262018.f5QKIAq01532@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I have selected a tree for my backyard, becuase it only grows 10 - 20 ft tall, and is about 15 from my pool. My question is does Pinus edulis grow here in the valley. For shape, color, height and wanting a pine tree in this location I think this is my best choice. I do have drip irrigation. Larry From frank_and_helen@msn.com Tue Jun 26 20:48:33 2001 From: frank_and_helen@msn.com (frank_and_helen@msn.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 13:48:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106262048.f5QKmXq06987@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Mesquite tree mature leaves have gone "brown" in 24 hours? Root rot?? Explain. Thank you. Frank From southpawaz@home.com Tue Jun 26 21:17:56 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:17:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus indentification References: <200106262010.f5QKA4q00313@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B38FC04.3AD34E60@home.com> Hello, Here is a link to a site that has lots of pictures of cactus and succulents: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/succulents.htm However, you will find yourself wading through a lot of pictures trying to figure out what you have. You might get a quicker and better answer to your questions if you take some pictures, upload them to a web site, and then send a link to this email list asking for help identifying them and what may be wrong with them. kscravens@earthlink.net wrote: > > We are new to AZ and we have several different cacti. A couple don't look healthy. > > I would like some direction and links (with photos) to identify the cactus and then get a description of the symptoms and treatment. > > I have surfed and surfed this site and links with no success. -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue Jun 26 22:37:42 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 15:37:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] cactus photos In-Reply-To: <200106262010.f5QKA4q00313@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <20010626223742.81416.qmail@web13901.mail.yahoo.com> You might also want to check out http://www.desertusa.com/flora.html They don't have as large of a variety of plants as the other website that was posted before, but it may help you reduce your list of plants. It also doesn't talk much about diseases, but once you find the name of the plants, you may be able to look for other information on the internet, or post another question on this list about the specific problems. Barbara --- kscravens@earthlink.net wrote: > We are new to AZ and we have several different > cacti. A couple don't look healthy. > > I would like some direction and links (with photos) > to identify the cactus and then get a description > of the symptoms and treatment. > > I have surfed and surfed this site and links with no > success. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 00:11:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:11:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brazilian Pepper Tree with yellow leaves Message-ID: <9.177361f1.286a7ec7@aol.com> Richard, The Brazilian Pepper tree is evergreen and most evergreen trees will will lose their leaves throughout the year as opposed to deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall. Yellowing leaves can be caused by either over or under watering. When a tree is under stress which can be caused by inadequate watering it can lose its leaves which is probably what happened last summer. Deep watering your Brazilian Pepper tree every two weeks in summer sounds as if you are on target unless you have very sandy soil, in that case you should water more frequently. I don't understand why you are now getting yellow leaves by deep watering every two weeks unless you have caliche or very slow draining soil in your yard. Check out this site for info on watering: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 00:11:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:11:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree with brown leaves Message-ID: <121.d90b62.286a7eca@aol.com> Frank, Mesquite trees are resistant to Texas Root Rot so it is unlikely that this is what your tree has, but not impossible. Texas Root Rot can be confirmed by taking a root sample ( 12 inches X finger size ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for a lab examination, do not wash, place in a plastic bag and as fresh as possible. Is the tree being watered, the Mesquite is quite drought tolerant but still requires some water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 00:11:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:11:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carob tree dying Message-ID: <12e.999291.286a7ecc@aol.com> Adin, Old age, chemical overspray, fungi or continued spraying for blossom removal could cause problems with your carob tree. My advice is to call a Certified Arborist for an appraisal of your trees health and take his advice. You will find a listing at the folowing: http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 00:11:55 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 20:11:55 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pinus edulis, Pinon Pine Message-ID: <12f.999990.286a7ecb@aol.com> The Pinus edulis does well at higher elevation but I'm afraid that it would have a tough time here in the low desert. Two pines that do well here are Eldarica and Aleppo. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 27 00:16:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 17:16:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Texas Mountain Laurel References: <200106261910.f5QJAqq20870@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3925D0.50726952@qwest.net> This is normally a hedgelike shrub that people 'train' into a tree form. So you are actually wanting to keep its more natural state. May is the recommended pruning time, after the bloom cycle. Pruning should be done carefully because the flowers arise on one-year-old wood. You should never shear the plant, and dramatic thinning should be avoided, too. Focus on removing dead interior growth. However, its natural growth is a heighth in the 15-20' range with about a 10' spread. This may be a bigger 'shrub' than your space permits. The orange seed inside the pods is poisonous, although not really easy to get at. Depending on your situation, you may want to remove the and dispose of the pods. Linda Guy, MG psevin4771@aol.com wrote: > I planted a texas mountain laurel about 5 years ago. It is close to the house and i do not want it to grow into a tree, can I prune it so that it will grow into a smaller bush? If so, when? > > Also, I am having trouble finding flowers that can stand the summer heat but grow in the shade. I have a garden facing west that receives little to no sun because of shade trees. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Jun 27 01:13:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 18:13:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Star Jasmine] Message-ID: <3B393347.2BAEF861@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------AD313D56C95B42D987ED75C6 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Has anyone ever grown stary jasmine indoors? Any thougths for Lorri? Linda --------------AD313D56C95B42D987ED75C6 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 27578 invoked by uid 0); 26 Jun 2001 15:44:05 -0000 Received: from mail1.uswest.net (63.226.138.1) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 26 Jun 2001 15:44:05 -0000 Received: (qmail 64750 invoked by uid 0); 26 Jun 2001 15:44:02 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO hotmail.com) (216.33.148.107) by mail1.uswest.net with SMTP; 26 Jun 2001 15:44:02 -0000 Received: from mail pickup service by hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC; Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:44:01 -0700 Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:40:43 -0700 Message-ID: From: "lplatzeck" To: lindaguy@uswest.net X-Originating-IP: [24.12.13.159] Reply-To: "lplatzeck" Subject: Re: [AG] Star Jasmine MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0FE1B.AFCA0B80" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4522.1200 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4522.1200 X-OriginalArrivalTime: 26 Jun 2001 15:44:01.0045 (UTC) FILETIME=[D2035450:01C0FE56] X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0FE1B.AFCA0B80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Dear Linda, I have a northern exposure and can't grow much except in a very bright window. Could I grown star jasmine in doors? I'm desperate! Thanks very much! Very Truly Yours, Lorri ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0FE1B.AFCA0B80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Dear Linda,
 
I have a northern exposure and can't = grow much=20 except in a very bright window.  Could I grown star jasmine in = doors? =20 I'm desperate!  Thanks very much!
Very Truly Yours,
 
Lorri
------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0FE1B.AFCA0B80-- --------------AD313D56C95B42D987ED75C6-- From umiller@azdps.com Wed Jun 27 12:14:52 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 05:14:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Star Jasmine] In-Reply-To: <3B393347.2BAEF861@qwest.net> Message-ID: Is that the same as the polyanthum (the one with the little leaves)? If so - yes I've grown it indoors in a north facing window with lots of light but moved it outside when it started blooming. Also, it's a fast grower and started taking over the window ledge. But the main reason for my moving it outdoors was that the fragrance was much too overpowering in the house for me. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 6:14 PM To: Arid_gardener Cc: lplatzeck@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: [AG] Star Jasmine] Has anyone ever grown stary jasmine indoors? Any thougths for Lorri? Linda From kmp@wescap.com Wed Jun 27 14:38:20 2001 From: kmp@wescap.com (kmp@wescap.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 07:38:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106271438.f5REcKq28361@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My ficus tree is dying!!!! I have four altogether in the backyard and all but one are doing fine. The one that is dying has practically lost all its leaves within the last two weeks. They are not brittle when the fall off the tree; but are wilted. Some are brown and curled but wilted, not dry. I am watering the tree same as the others - usually 7 to 10 days about 3 hrs of slow watering from the hose. The branches seem soft and not brittle. Is there any hope the tree will come back. What can I do? From mkvictrix@worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 27 17:10:09 2001 From: mkvictrix@worldnet.att.net (mkvictrix@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 10:10:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106271710.f5RHA9q21835@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My yard sprinkler/dripper technician has confused me. For the past 13 years, I have, in the summer, let my dripper run on my plants like oleander, cassius, myoporum, etc. for about 5 minutes per day. My technician says that I should allow the dripper to run on these plants 30 minutes every other day. Hence, these plants will receive about 2 gallons of water each every other day? What do you recommend? From mbenda@qwest.net Wed Jun 27 17:50:37 2001 From: mbenda@qwest.net (mbenda@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 10:50:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106271750.f5RHobq28645@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What can I do, please, to get rid of nutgrass? I have tried "manage" and "nilator" or some such name, with no success. Thank you for any suggestions. Miles From Doris12009@aol.com Wed Jun 27 18:14:56 2001 From: Doris12009@aol.com (Doris12009@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:14:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106271814.f5RIEuq02444@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Water and fertilizer requirements for "Torch Glow Bouganvilla"? From srussell@rmci.net Wed Jun 27 18:17:28 2001 From: srussell@rmci.net (srussell@rmci.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:17:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106271817.f5RIHSq03006@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is needed to green up bermuda grass?we have flood type irrigation every 14 days. the irrigation water is some what salty. i desire a fertilzer that can be in a drum and slowly released in to the irrigation water. the lawn is 2 years in growing. now it,s still a yellow green. our lot size 1 acre. we live in the buckeye,az area thanks for your input. sinded yellow grass. From RkBetu@aol.com Wed Jun 27 18:19:21 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 14:19:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water lilies and ponds Message-ID: I have just built a small pond (3' x 4' x 16" deep), above ground with small fountain. It is in shade most of the day. Are there any types of water lilies that will bloom in shade and with moving water? Where can I find info on stores that sell pond plants on the west side of Phoenix? Thank you Rocki From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 21:23:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 17:23:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nut grass, managing Message-ID: Miles, Manage is probably the best available chemical to use for getting rid of nut grass, but you must follow the instructions precisely. And you won't be able to get rid of it with one application. I've been working on getting rid of nut grass for two years now with two applications a year and just now have it under control with only a few scatered blades left. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Wed Jun 27 22:01:18 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 15:01:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200106271710.f5RHA9q21835@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <20010627220118.81751.qmail@web13002.mail.yahoo.com> Actually your both wrong.A drip system should be ser to run at least 4-5 hours for shrubs every 10-14 days. Plants ,like people and animals, need nutrients,water and oxygen. When water is put into the soil it displaces the oxygen and you must allow the soil to dry out some what to allow the oxygen back into the soil. --- mkvictrix@worldnet.att.net wrote: > My yard sprinkler/dripper technician has confused > me. For the past 13 years, I have, in the summer, > let my dripper run on my plants like oleander, > cassius, myoporum, etc. for about 5 minutes per day. > My technician says that I should allow the dripper > to run on these plants 30 minutes every other day. > Hence, these plants will receive about 2 gallons of > water each every other day? What do you recommend? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 22:22:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:22:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ficus tree dying Message-ID: <12b.a60b24.286bb6c1@aol.com> Trees will lose their leaves when drought stressed. I suspect that you are not giving the Ficus trees enough water. After you have watered insert a 4 foot long steel bar into the ground in the root zone of your tree. If the water is adequate the bar should go easily to a three foot depth throughout the trees root zone. If irrigation is ok bring leaf samples and root samples ( 12 inches long X finger size ) to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for an examination. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 27 22:22:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:22:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigating Landscape Plants Message-ID: <7f.16684aa2.286bb6bd@aol.com> Since you and your irrigation technician have both missed the target on watering landscape plants, I suggest that you read the chapter on irrigation in the Master Gardener Manual on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 27 23:44:36 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:44:36 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] false chinch bug Message-ID: We have seen many examples of fall chinch bugs in the last few weeks. Here is some information from UC-Davis: The false chinch bug occurs sporadically. This pest breeds in great numbers in grass or weedy areas, especially on London rocket, and may migrate into urban areas when these areas dry up and the pests search for green growth. Adults are gray and about 0.12 inch long. Nymphs are gray with reddish brown abdomens. If false chinch bugs have been a problem in past years, hoe out stands of London rocket and other host weeds when they appear. A heavy movement of bugs from the weeds to urban areas occurs as weeds die out. The good news is these bugs will disappear in another week or two and won't be back until next year. Of course wet winters that promote good stands of weeds lead to the population explosion we are seeing this year. When they get in your house, a vacuum cleaner is effective in removing them. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: karen.detorres@honeywell.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:16:27 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, >I hope you can help... >One day last week and once in mid-May, the desert vegetation around my >house > > >was teeming with small flying gnat-like bugs that managed to get through >the >weep >holes in my windows and through the cracks in my sliding doors. If given >the >opportunity, >they stung. They eventually died on the sunny window sills and thresholds >of >the sliders. There were >THOUSANDS of these small dead pests. What are they and how can I prevent >them from coming back? >Thanks, >Karen >Gold Canyon > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 27 23:51:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:51:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] springtails Message-ID: Springtails are harmless. In the house, you will often find them where there is moisture such as bathrooms and kitchens. They are probably coming in from outside,so the best strategy is to wash them down the drain or vacuum them up when you see them. Whwn conditions are right, enormous numbers of them may appear. Cold weather knocks down the population. All of this information is from Tucson, Arizona -- probably much drier and less humid than your location. Check with your local County Extension Agent for specific information for your area. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: T_Vail@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 12:14:24 -0700 (MST) > >I hope you can help me. I live in Columbia, South Carolina, and My home >seems to be infested with these springtails. I have had an exterminator out >here twice and these things are not going away. They seem now to be moving >from room to room. Is there anything you can tell me that would get rid of >these bugs? I have lived in Columbia and all around Columbia my whole life >and never seen anything like this. The exterminator had never even heard or >seen these bugs before either. Any information you could provide me with I >would greatly appreciate. > > > >Thank you, > > >Melissa Vail > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed Jun 27 23:54:55 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 23:54:55 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] peach tree dying Message-ID: Do you see any tunneling in the wood when you cut off the branches? My first guess would be peach tree borer. Can you bring a sample of the dying branch to your nearrest County Extension Office? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: annetter11@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 11:09:40 -0700 (MST) > >We have a free stone peach tree that is between 5 and 7 years of age. It >bloomed and was doing great until about 3 or 4 weeks ago. It was full of >fruit and some of the branches started to die. We cut them off as they died >and we picked all the fruit. The process hasn't stopped. A new branch is >dying right after we trim off the last dead one. Any suggestions on what >might be causing this. We treated our other peach tree and apricot tree the >same way as this tree and they are both doing wonderfully. I hope the >problem doesn't spread to them too!!! >Thank you for you time> > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 28 00:03:40 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 00:03:40 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lawn care Message-ID: Basic information on lawn care can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Lack of nitrogen could cause the yellow color, but there may be other possibilities as well. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: srussell@rmci.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:17:28 -0700 (MST) > >what is needed to green up bermuda grass?we have flood type irrigation >every 14 days. the irrigation water is some what salty. i desire a >fertilzer that can be in a drum and slowly released in to the irrigation >water. the lawn is 2 years in growing. now it,s still a yellow green. our >lot size 1 acre. we live in the buckeye,az area thanks for your input. >sinded yellow grass. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 28 00:09:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 00:09:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bougainvillea Message-ID: from an earlier post: "Bougainvillrea requires full sun to do well. Also once they are established they require very little water and fertilizer. They can be pruned almost anytime except in winter. Since they are very frost tender pruning will only generate new growth which is even more frost tender. When Bougainvillea is planted care must be taken not to disturb the roots. Some varieties of Bougainvillea seem to be more vigorous than others, I've had excellent luck with " Barbara Karst " . Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener " >From: Doris12009@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 11:14:56 -0700 (MST) > >Water and fertilizer requirements for "Torch Glow Bouganvilla"? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From bteagle@worldnet.att.net Thu Jun 28 01:31:17 2001 From: bteagle@worldnet.att.net (bteagle@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:31:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106280131.f5S1VHq08218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I find information on raising sweet potatoes in our area. I have some plants that are growing and spreading out and very healthy. How do I know when to harvest, what do I feed and how to water. would appreciate any info you could provide. I have successfully grown red and white potatoes. Bob Turley From kimberly.c.gibbons@intel.com Thu Jun 28 02:35:28 2001 From: kimberly.c.gibbons@intel.com (kimberly.c.gibbons@intel.com) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 19:35:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106280235.f5S2ZNq13822@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Dear Master Gardener: Our mature Aleppo Pine trees are turning brown and dying. We have lost one already and it looks like another one right next to it is going to die. We had a tree specialist come out last year and for $500 they did deep root fertilization and put some kind of liquid fungicide on the lower bark of the trees, which seemed to help temporarily, but they are now looking bad again. What can we treat these trees with? Home Depot doesn't seem to have anything specific for this problem. Please advise us. From rosati@pc.maricopa.edu Thu Jun 28 04:05:39 2001 From: rosati@pc.maricopa.edu (rosati@pc.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 21:05:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106280405.f5S45dq24337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in lavenders and would like to find lavendes that do well in Phoenix. I'm especially interested in smaller, dark flower color, and heavily scented. Thanks for any information you can find. Sincerely, Mark From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jun 28 14:34:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:34:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Book Deal Message-ID: <3B3B4076.79D8A13D@qwest.net> I was at Changing Hands Bookstore last night [sw corner of Guadalupe and McClintock] and noticed in the gardening section that Eric Johnson's Pruning Planting & Care [Johnson's Guide to Gardening Plants for the Arid West] was on sale for under $9, normally $18 I think. This was one of the 'texts' I received in the advanced MG tree care class, and I really like it as a reference. There are about 12 copies there, if anyone is interested. Linda From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Jun 28 15:02:12 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:02:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Aleppo Pines Dying References: <200106280235.f5S2ZNq13822@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B3B46F3.5C2EABCA@qwest.net> It would be helpful if you shared your cultural practices with the server members in an effort to better address your problem. These trees are very adapted to poor soil and arid conditions. I have never heard of fungal conditions which attack them. Nonetheless, aleppos have a physiological response to very limited watering known as aleppo pine blight. However, we generally witness the tree's ability to rebound when care is improved. But permanent damage is not inconceivable. These trees may be originally from the deserts of the Middle East, but they nonetheless have some minimal watering needs. We have many lovely specimens in my Arcadia neighborhood of east Phoenix, but many of our lots are flood irrigated. It would also be interesting to hear your trees' estimated age. I for one do not know if they have an anticipated life span, but perhaps another member knows. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm Linda Guy, MG kimberly.c.gibbons@intel.com wrote: > Dear Master Gardener: > Our mature Aleppo Pine trees are turning brown and dying. We have lost one already and it looks like another one right next to it is going to die. We had a tree specialist come out last year and for $500 they did deep root fertilization and put some kind of liquid fungicide on the lower bark of the trees, which seemed to help temporarily, but they are now looking bad again. What can we treat these trees with? Home Depot doesn't seem to have anything specific for this problem. Please advise us. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From hardlyd38@aol.com Thu Jun 28 19:27:28 2001 From: hardlyd38@aol.com (hardlyd38@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:27:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106281927.f5SJRSq05583@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I find quick and easy information on watering an pruning of plants of this area? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 28 22:36:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 18:36:39 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering and Pruning Trees and Plants Message-ID: You will find excellent info on both watering and pruning in the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 28 23:40:12 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:40:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: pine blight Message-ID: Kurt, You have described the symptoms of a disease called Aleppo Pine Blight, a physiological condition which is often times caused by rapid temperature changes and especially going from cool to hot. Little is known about this disease and no treatment is available. The good news is that it usually does not kill the tree. The best advice available is to make sure that the tree is watered adequately. U. of A Fact Sheet MC 53 shows a daily water requirement in summer in the Phoenix area for a 20 foot diameter tree of 14.1 to 23.5 gallons. I assume that the irrigation drip system that you installed was tubing with built in emitters which I have used for turf irrigation but only installed 4 inches deep. At an 18 inch depth are the roots which are above that depth getting adequate water? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 28 23:26:38 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:26:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lavender In-Reply-To: <200106280405.f5S45dq24337@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/cgi-bin/texis/webinator/default/?db=aridgardener&query =lavender&cmd=Hide+Options¬q=&prox=&sufs=0 and type in Lavender and Search. You'll see some previous discussions about lavender and how it grows here. Another place you can visit is: http://www.highcountrygardens.com/ This is a nursery that specializes in southwest gardening and they have a nice catalog that includes lavenders with their needs (sun, water, etc). If you want lots of frangrance, do NOT get the Canary Island lavender. It grows very nicely out here but it does not have any fragrance - in fact, when you cut the leaves, they have kind of a turpentine-like smell. I have a lot of sweet lavender (a variety of English lavender - augustifolia) and they are doing very well. They have the sweetest fragrance of all lavenders. This includes Munstead. The Spanish lavenders which are sold widely in the valley do not have much fragrance. So I'd stick with the English varieties (augustifolia) if you like fragrance. But I wouldn't plant them this time of year. I've not had any luck planting lavenders in the hot summer. I'd wait until it cools off when they should do fine. It'll be easier to find lavender in the nurseries in the fall and spring. As far as watering goes, they need regular watering but they also need good drainage. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rosati@pc.maricopa.edu Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 9:06 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am interested in lavenders and would like to find lavendes that do well in Phoenix. I'm especially interested in smaller, dark flower color, and heavily scented. Thanks for any information you can find. Sincerely, Mark _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 29 00:22:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 00:22:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] sweet potatoes Message-ID: from an earlier response: "There is an excellent book by George Brookbank called Desert Gardening, Fruits and Vegetables. You may be able to find a copy at your local library branch, but it is well worth purchasing and can be found at bookstores as well as some of the nurseries in the valley. The book states that sweet potatoes are a warm-weather plant. You may find rooted cuttings in the nurseries and even in seed catalogs at planting time, which is May. He states that, then again, you may not. The best kinds recommended for the desert are Jewel, Centennial and Puerto Rico. I'd really recommend getting a copy of the book because it goes into detail about some of the ways to grow the potatoes, including using old car tires, about four or five, but making sure they are the same size. Lay one of them on the ground and mark around it using a stick, then dig the ground in the marked area and add steer manure and ammonium phosphate. The book states you then put the tire back over the soil and place a few rooted sweet potatoes on top of the soil, put sawdust over them, leaving some green shoots to enjoy the sunshine. As the shoots lengthen, add a little sawdust from time to time and keep it moist. Add a tablespoon of balanced houseplant food to each gallon of water. Sawdust has no fertilizer value. As you add more sawdust you will need to add another tire and another until you have a tire tower. There is a photo in the book. He states that in early spring the tire's black color will absorb the sun's heat and stimulate early growth. Sweet potatoes like the heat. He says if all goes well, the tower will be full of potatoes at the end of the summer. Sweet potatoes are harvested in late fall after the first frost kills the vines. Again, the chapter on sweet potatoes has a lot of information and it is worth borrowing from the library or picking up a copy. Sue Bass Master Gardener" >From: bteagle@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2001 18:31:17 -0700 (MST) > >Where can I find information on raising sweet potatoes in our area. I have >some plants that are growing and spreading out and very healthy. How do I >know when to harvest, what do I feed and how to water. would appreciate >any info you could provide. I have successfully grown red and white >potatoes. > >Bob Turley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From kmiler610@home.com Fri Jun 29 02:28:23 2001 From: kmiler610@home.com (kmiler610@home.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:28:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106290228.f5T2SNw05047@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From kmiler610@home.com Fri Jun 29 02:34:30 2001 From: kmiler610@home.com (kmiler610@home.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:34:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106290234.f5T2YUw05524@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a purple robe locust tree in my backyard. It was planted approximately 3 months ago. Since around a month ago the leaves on the tree seem to be getting eaten. They have a nice little bite mark in them. An ellipse about one inch in length taken out of most leaves and sometimes twice in the same leaf. What critter could be causing this and more importantly how do I make my tree less appetizing. I tried a pesticide that you pour into the base and it did not work. Any suggestions? From kmiller610@home.com Fri Jun 29 02:35:14 2001 From: kmiller610@home.com (kmiller610@home.com) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 19:35:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106290235.f5T2ZEw05592@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a purple robe locust tree in my backyard. It was planted approximately 3 months ago. Since around a month ago the leaves on the tree seem to be getting eaten. They have a nice little bite mark in them. An ellipse about one inch in length taken out of most leaves and sometimes twice in the same leaf. What critter could be causing this and more importantly how do I make my tree less appetizing. I tried a pesticide that you pour into the base and it did not work. Any suggestions? Sorry, wrong email address on the last one. From lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us Fri Jun 29 04:51:04 2001 From: lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us (lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:51:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106290451.f5T4p4w19749@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us Fri Jun 29 04:54:45 2001 From: lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us (lfowler@peoriaud.k12.az.us) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 21:54:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106290454.f5T4sjw19917@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is my ficus tree considered one of the evergreens you wrote about in June 27 column? It has shed all the inside leaves. I don't prune it. Do I need to? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 29 17:07:38 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:07:38 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cutter Bees Message-ID: I suspect that cutter bees that also attack roses are the culprits. Since they do not ingest the leaves but use them to make nests, applying a chemical is a waste of time and money. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Fri Jun 29 18:19:50 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:19:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, painting trunk Message-ID: <200106291819.LAA25493@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> Speaking as an astrophysicist, rather than a gardener, I can say that white paint is more reflective than any other color, so it's possible that white paint helps to keep the trunk cooler. That's why astronomy observatory domes are almost always painted white. Don > I have a follow-up question on this. Why use white? If the point is to > prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a > brown latex paint so it's no so visible. I don't believe that white latex > paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown. Or am I wrong on this? > > Ursula Miller > Master Gardener From SBanks123@aol.com Fri Jun 29 20:08:01 2001 From: SBanks123@aol.com (SBanks123@aol.com) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:08:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106292008.f5TK81w08097@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have an infestation of rolie polie bugs (aka Pillbugs). Even the pest control guy we called says he has never seen anything like it. Dead bugs fill up the track of the arcadia door in a matter of a few days. The yard has been sprayed twice professionally, and still they walk. Is there ANY insect, worm, etc. that I can import that will cut down the population of these critters in my yard? I live in central Phoenix, by the way, not out in the country or anything. I water only Mon, Wed, and Fri, so it isn't as if the soil is soggy or anything. I dislike using chemicals, but I also dislike living with millions of these guys digging holes all over my yard. I use crutches to walk, and the holes they dig are crutch-tip size and dangerous to me. Thank you for ANY help you can offer this homeowner. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 29 21:41:13 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:41:13 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sowbug, Pillbug, Roly-Poly Bug Message-ID: Pillbugs These fascinating creatures are not insects but crustaceans (like crabs, crayfish and shrimp).They need sources of moisture. They are usually regarded as beneficials because they break down dead plant material and are a food source for birds and lizards. (thanks to Carl Olson for this information) For some reason, it seems you have a population explosion! Encouraging birds and lizards and reducing the amount of moist areas should take care of the 'extras'. The Rodale insect book suggests: Drain wet areas; sprinkle diatomaceous earth around foundation where they congregate; trap under stones or boards, then destroy; place rolls of damp newspaper near your doors, then pick up the paper and hiding pillbugs in the morning and dispose of them. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: SBanks123@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:08:01 -0700 (MST) > > We have an infestation of rolie polie bugs (aka Pillbugs). Even the >pest control guy we called says he has never seen anything like it. Dead >bugs fill up the track of the arcadia door in a matter of a few days. The >yard has been sprayed twice professionally, and still they walk. > Is there ANY insect, worm, etc. that I can import that will cut down >the population of these critters in my yard? > I live in central Phoenix, by the way, not out in the country or >anything. I water only Mon, Wed, and Fri, so it isn't as if the soil is >soggy or anything. > I dislike using chemicals, but I also dislike living with millions of >these guys digging holes all over my yard. I use crutches to walk, and the >holes they dig are crutch-tip size and dangerous to me. > Thank you for ANY help you can offer this homeowner. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From msiver@mail.maricopa.gov Fri Jun 29 22:15:20 2001 From: msiver@mail.maricopa.gov (msiver@mail.maricopa.gov) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:15:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106292215.f5TMFKw28727@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can different types of grapes like flame,perlette,thompson, be planted together in a row? Will planting them together make a difference in their taste,(sweetness)?Thank -you. From gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Jun 29 22:03:48 2001 From: gwright@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Glenn C. Wright) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 15:03:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Citrus, painting trunk In-Reply-To: <3B335AB4.CD5F028C@qwest.net> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010629141139.03aab750@127.0.0.1> --=====================_2009232==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed At 07:48 AM 06/22/2001 -0700, you wrote: What's the science behind the 'white' in citrus trunk painting? Thanks in advance for your assistance. Linda Here are the origins of your question >From: abailey13@qwest.net >the owner of the nursery where we purchased >a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it. We also >purchased mulch which he used. We have >watered it every other day as instructed and >yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of >the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex- >cept top two branches. We painted the trunk >white and nursery guy said that's what caused >problem. Any suggestions? Is it dead or >should I use something for prevent or stop >shock? > Could you tell us what kind of paint you used? The usual recommendation is white interior latex diluted 50% or more with water. Linda Drew Master Gardener >I have a follow-up question on this. Why use white? If the point is to >prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a >brown latex paint so it's no so visible. I don't believe that white latex >paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown. Or am I wrong on this? > >Ursula Miller Speaking as an astrophysicist, rather than a gardener, I can say that white paint is more reflective than any other color, so it's possible that white paint helps to keep the trunk cooler. That's why astronomy observatory domes are almost always painted white. Don >White latex paint is useful for two reasons. First, paint contains UV >light blockers. UV light can be damaging to proteins, some of which exist >in plant cells. Ursula Miller is correct in noting that white paint is no >more resistant to UV light since all commercial paints have UV light >blockers. However, Don Garnett mentions the other important point, that >surfaces painted white are cooler than those painted other colors, because >of the higher reflectivity of the white paint. High temperatures, >independent of UV light, can damage lipids and proteins in plant >cells. Damaged cells are susceptible to pathogenic invasion. Citrus may >be predisposed to infection by Phytophthora root rot or Hendersonula >(sooty canker) when they are injured due to excess heat or UV radiation. GCW --=====================_2009232==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" At 07:48 AM 06/22/2001 -0700, you wrote:
What's the science behind the 'white' in citrus trunk painting? Thanks
in advance for your assistance.

Linda

Here are the origins of your question

>From: abailey13@qwest.net

>the owner of the nursery where we purchased
>a lemon tree 12 days ago planted it.  We also
>purchased mulch which he used.  We have
>watered it every other day as instructed and
>yesterday AM it was fine but at the end of
>the day the leaves were curled and dried, ex-
>cept top two branches.  We painted the trunk
>white and nursery guy said that's what caused
>problem.  Any suggestions?  Is it dead or
>should I use something for prevent or stop
>shock?
>

Could you tell us what kind of paint
you used? The usual recommendation is
white interior latex diluted 50% or more
with water.

Linda Drew
Master Gardener

I have a follow-up question on this.  Why use white?  If the point is to
prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a
brown latex paint so it's no so visible.  I don't believe that white latex
paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown.  Or am I wrong on this?

Ursula Miller


Speaking as an astrophysicist, rather than a gardener, I can say
that white paint is more reflective than any other color, so it's
possible that white paint helps to keep the trunk cooler. That's
why astronomy observatory domes are almost always painted white.
Don

White latex paint is useful for two reasons.  First, paint contains UV light blockers.  UV light can be damaging to proteins, some of which exist in plant cells.  Ursula Miller is correct in noting that white paint is no more resistant to UV light since all commercial paints have  UV light blockers.  However, Don Garnett mentions the other important point, that surfaces painted white are cooler than those painted other colors, because of the higher reflectivity of the white paint.  High temperatures, independent of UV light, can damage lipids and proteins in plant cells.  Damaged cells are susceptible to pathogenic invasion.  Citrus may be predisposed to infection by Phytophthora root rot or Hendersonula (sooty canker) when they are injured due to excess heat or UV radiation.


GCW










--=====================_2009232==_.ALT-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Jun 29 23:42:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:42:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dr. Wright's Reply on White Citrus Paint Message-ID: <3B3D1279.D118D564@qwest.net> Dr. Glenn Wright's recent response: White latex paint is useful for two reasons. First, paint contains UV light blockers. UV light can be damaging to proteins, some of which exist in plant cells. Ursula Miller is correct in noting that white paint is no more resistant to UV light since all commercial paints have UV light blockers. However, Don Garnett mentions the other important point, that surfaces painted white are cooler than those painted other colors, because of the higher reflectivity of the white paint. High temperatures, independent of UV light, can damage lipids and proteins in plant cells. Damaged cells are susceptible to pathogenic invasion. Citrus may be predisposed to infection by Phytophthora root rot or Hendersonula (sooty canker) when they are injured due to excess heat or UV radiation. So there you have it! Linda Guy, MG From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 29 23:29:35 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 16:29:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Citrus, painting trunk In-Reply-To: <200106291819.LAA25493@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> Message-ID: Don - This makes sense to me. I just thought that the UV rays were the problem but if I'm hot in this heat, I can believe that a tree could be hot, too. Thanks for the response. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: Don Garnett [mailto:dgarnett@as.arizona.edu] Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:20 AM To: umiller@azdps.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: Re: Citrus, painting trunk Speaking as an astrophysicist, rather than a gardener, I can say that white paint is more reflective than any other color, so it's possible that white paint helps to keep the trunk cooler. That's why astronomy observatory domes are almost always painted white. Don > I have a follow-up question on this. Why use white? If the point is to > prevent the UV rays from damaging the trunk, why not mix the water with a > brown latex paint so it's no so visible. I don't believe that white latex > paint has a higher resistance to UV rays than brown. Or am I wrong on this? > > Ursula Miller > Master Gardener From harviandpaul@earthlink.net Sat Jun 30 18:46:30 2001 From: harviandpaul@earthlink.net (harviandpaul@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 11:46:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106301846.f5UIkUw01935@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have desert landscape. I would like to know how often and how long I should set the drip system for (1) mature plants, and (2) mature trees. Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jun 30 20:54:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 16:54:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation Message-ID: <118.10a6229.286f9698@aol.com> The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer your questions on irrigation and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From c.ornucopia.wine@home.com Fri Jun 1 15:41:31 2001 From: c.ornucopia.wine@home.com (c.ornucopia.wine@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:41:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106011541.f51FfVB16188@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often should catus plants such as agave be watered? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit , 2 years, not bearing fruit Message-ID: <74.b1ed951.284919fe@aol.com> Citrus typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. What you are seeing is the tree sheding the fruit that it is not ready to bear. Your irrigation interval is too long for a two year old tree in summer. Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning trees and shrubs Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on pruning available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil sulfur Message-ID: <61.e838751.28491a04@aol.com> Dispersol is the brand name for soil sulfur. One variety of Dispersol contains iron and manganese which I opt to use because of these micro nutrients. I've purchased Dispersol at Gardeners World. Soil su;lfur is slow acting taking several months before one sees any change. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms with light colored fronds Message-ID: It often takes several months to see a change in color of palm fronds after applying corrective nutrients. Check out these sites for palm care and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:09 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #118 - 19 msgs Message-ID: <36.16c68f70.28491a05@aol.com> Suzanne, Fish emulsion and Osmacote are both excellent choices, I use them both. I just visited with Master Gardener Jack Blake today at a seminar and he told me that he is teaching horticultural clases at home depot. Don't miss his class when he comes to your store, he will have an abundance of correct info. good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Fri Jun 1 18:05:59 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 11:05:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: leaf ID Message-ID: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> From the photo the leaf looks most like that of a white mulberry, Morus alba. A description and photo can be found at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/poison/Morusal.htm (the North Carolina poisonous plant site, of all things!) Mulberries would certainly make themselves known by shedding lots of purple berries, if given a chance. Seems to me though, that it may not have a chance to do so if severely cut back often, and the result may be more shrublike than tree-like. Of course, as Olin says you could ask your neighbor. :) Don Garnett From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 1 21:37:11 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer References: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B180B07.623F40BB@AuroraNow.org> Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite route there? Thanks. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From gingerb2l@netscape.net Fri Jun 1 21:52:45 2001 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:52:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we are moving from upstate new york will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jun 2 02:02:12 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:02:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lilacs, Bulbs, Raspberries References: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <004e01c0eb08$1ac8b200$4552530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > we are moving from upstate new york > will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area Assuming you refer to the low desert in the greater Phoenix AZ area, welcome to The Valley of the Sun. Many, but not all, bulbs will do okay. Usually planted October-November. Some require special procedures like stratification, often by cooling in a refrigerator for a certain length of time and at a certain time of the year. Raspberries are not adapted. Some varieties of blackberries do okay. I am not aware of anybody growing French lilacs. Persian lilacs will grow and bloom but blossoms are small. If you need specifics, please repost. There are so many beautiful and interesting plants that one can grow successfully here that can not be grown elsewhere. I suggest you familiarize yourself with our plants and growing conditions by perusing the home page and links at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ The monthly Timely Tips links should be helpful. Olin From mcp5457@aol.com Sat Jun 2 05:01:11 2001 From: mcp5457@aol.com (mcp5457@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Cira Passley From Auslender@aol.com Sat Jun 2 14:41:06 2001 From: Auslender@aol.com (Auslender@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:41:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Message-ID: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jun 2 15:37:06 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 08:37:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Watering and Feeding In-Reply-To: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Leonard - I have bougainvillea all over the place - in pots on the patio, in the yard, etc., so I have some experience with them. Initially, when they're young, they need more water, but after they're established they don't need daily watering. I water the established ones in pots on my patio about every three days now that it's so hot or earlier if I detect wilting. But this also depends on the type of pot (clay pottery pots lose lots of moisture through the pot so they may need more frequent watering) and the size of the pot. The bigger, the more water it holds and the less frequently it needs watering. Yours is a large pot, so I would try watering it like I do - once every three days and see how it goes. If they wilt - then do it every two days. After the hot season, you can reduce the watering. In fact, during the cooler parts of the year, I water them once a week or so and that seems to be fine (though right now it's hard for me to remember that we DO have cool days). I occasionally feed my patio ones with some regular water-soluble food, but I don't do it very often. They don't seem to need a lot of food, but since they're in pots and the watering washes away nutrients, I do feed them occasionally. I would NOT use any bloom booster type products. The established ones in the ground rarely get any water or anything else. I took them off the dripper system and they grow like crazy. It seems like the more neglect, the more bracts (flowers). I hope this helps. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Auslender@aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:41 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jun 2 17:09:01 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:09:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Poolside Landscapes References: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B191DAD.5E42E53A@qwest.net> Cira: You can view University of AZ publication AZ1058, entitled Plants for Poolside Landscapes on-line by using the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener mcp5457@aol.com wrote: > could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. > Thanks, > Cira Passley > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chebert621@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:36:59 2001 From: chebert621@aol.com (chebert621@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 15:36:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106022236.f52MaxB19399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My mesquite tree has suddenly taken a dive-literally. Two of the main branches(each about 10 inches in diameter)have split and are now touching the ground. A couple of other areas appear to have splitting bark and are oozing.Can this tree be saved? It is abut 14 years old, 20-30 feet high, with an equalspread. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:58:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:58:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: <83.b6e52d5.284ac983@aol.com> Sherryl The Roundup will kill nearly anything that is actively growing and you can use a preemergent weed killer such as Surflan or Weed and Grass Preventer to prevent the seeds from sprouting. You may have a problem finding Surflan since their manufacturing plant burned recently, but nurseries should know of a substitute. I would suggest that you do not consider any herbicide that is classed as a soil sterilent. Soil sterilents can stay in the soil for years and can migrate away from the area where applied and kill any plant roots that it contacts. I also recommend against using plastic under the granite. Weeds may grow through the plastic and others will grow on top of the plastic. The worst part is that moisture collects under the plastic, any plant roots that are nearby will come to the surface for the water, when the hot weather arrives the roots can cook. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Adriennetb@aol.com Sun Jun 3 00:09:46 2001 From: Adriennetb@aol.com (Adriennetb@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 17:09:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106030009.f5309kB26024@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is the program "Farm and Home" still on? If so what channel and what time? I really enjoyed it and miss it. Thank you. From Krulich@aol.com Sun Jun 3 22:37:42 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:37:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: Hello, I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will not last through this year's monsoon season. The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of right away! Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 01:09:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:09:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: <9c.ee8f208.284c39c2@aol.com> Tom , I would suggest that you have an arborist look at your mulberry tree and advise you as to a course of action. With the size of the tree and its rotted condition it could become a hazzard if it is not already. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From prschellhase@home.com Mon Jun 4 18:35:07 2001 From: prschellhase@home.com (prschellhase@home.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041835.f54IZ7B04312@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an 8 year old, yellow hybiscus plant. Each morning I pick off about 1 to 2 dozen yellow leaves. Within 24 hours I have another 1 to 2 dozen leaves, some have completely turned from dark green to bright yellow. I deep water it every couple of days and and give it 10-30-10 fert once every 6 weeks. Is this normal? Is it a pest, too much water, not enough water, the wrong ph or something else? I have had this problem for years. It detracts from the enjoyment of the plant. Please help! From lsveith@swlink.net Mon Jun 4 19:17:29 2001 From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:17:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041917.f54JHTB12765@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When is the best time to trim Oleander so they will continue blooming. In advance, thanks From DWoodw1016@aol.com Mon Jun 4 19:35:36 2001 From: DWoodw1016@aol.com (DWoodw1016@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:35:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041935.f54JZaB15529@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a California Pepper tree and noticed that the bark was coming off the branches. What could cause this to happen? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper tree losing bark Message-ID: <97.16616a2b.284d6ed1@aol.com> The California Pepper Tree grown here in the low desert is susceptable to a number of problems such as Texas Root Rot, root knot nematodes, and heart rot. It is very important that one keep the tree from being drought stressed by proper irrigation. A drought stressed tree becomes a target for many problems. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:00 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders, pruning Message-ID: <48.169722e7.284d6ed0@aol.com> If you prune your oleanders in the winter after they stop bloming, they will then be ready to bloom again when the weather warms. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:07:59 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:07:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus with yellow leaves Message-ID: Overwatering will cause thhe leaves to yellow on most plants. If you deep watered once a week your hibiscus would be much happier. Check out this site on landscape irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From tgeddes135@aol.com Tue Jun 5 00:51:46 2001 From: tgeddes135@aol.com (tgeddes135@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050051.f550pWB04729@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What do I do with my Iris bed now that they have finished blooming. Do I leave the bulbs in the ground or do I dig them up? Thank you From emily@primeshot.com Tue Jun 5 01:01:39 2001 From: emily@primeshot.com (emily@primeshot.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 18:01:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? From tsmithra@ionet.net Tue Jun 5 16:29:01 2001 From: tsmithra@ionet.net (tsmithra@ionet.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:29:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051629.f55GT1h21820@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have a mature joshua tree with one 30+ foot tall arm, that appears dry and brittle in the middle 10' of it. it seems healthy at the top and bottom of the arm. we're concerned that it will fall on the neighbors house if we don't do something about it. who might we contact regarding assesment, removal of the arm, support of the arm, etc. we just need a little good advice thanks From jasbo@home.com Tue Jun 5 18:37:08 2001 From: jasbo@home.com (jasbo@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:37:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051837.f55Ib8h13718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am looking for a suggestion for a tree to plant in my front yard. It has limited space and afternoon sun. I would prefer one that did not drop its leaves, and do not want a palm tree. A Purple Plum and a Swanhill Olive tree were both mentioned as possibilities. Do you have any thoughts on these trees or any other suggestions. Thank you so much. From bkrich@qwest.net Tue Jun 5 19:37:55 2001 From: bkrich@qwest.net (bkrich@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:37:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051937.f55Jbth23611@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I protect the fruit on my plum tree from being eaten by birds just as it is becoming ripe? From menuccibob@qwest.net Wed Jun 6 01:28:28 2001 From: menuccibob@qwest.net (menuccibob@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:28:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060128.f561SSh16886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I consulted a Horticulturist on planting 2 - 3' Pecan trees that I ordered from Georgia. She was wonderful, and both trees are in the ground and seem to be doing fine, but I have two questions and I haven't been able to contact her. Some background: I put the bare root trees in a bucket of water with a Root Stimulator while I dug 4' holes 3' in diameter. (I know, it was rough!) I put Gypsum on the bottom and filled the holes with water and let it drain. Then I backfilled, while mixing in some potting soil, (Less than 50%) and deep watered with "Triple Phosphate". Here is question #1: How often do I water them in this heat? I've been doing it about once a week, and I believe they are now established, but don't have a lot of growth (a few leaves on the trunk in several places). #2 Can, or should I use "Triple Phosphate" to promote growth and how often? If not, what should I use? Thanks in advance! Bob Menucci From PoetEvan@aol.com Wed Jun 6 03:49:43 2001 From: PoetEvan@aol.com (PoetEvan@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:49:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060349.f563nhh02101@Ag.Arizona.Edu> There is printer ink on paper that is finely shredded at work. I'd like to compost it with grass clippings and other matter. How much of a problem is the ink as I strive towards an organic approach to gardening? From skye4141@aol.com Wed Jun 6 06:10:43 2001 From: skye4141@aol.com (skye4141@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:10:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060610.f566Ahh15114@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Perris, California. I have about 40 Oleander bushes and about 3/4 of them are dying. There is supposedly a disease going around. My next door neighbors are not dying, but the one two doors up have dying oleanders also. The neighborhood nursury says nothing can be done. I believe something can be done but what? Can you help me? We are elderly and it would be a problem removing them and replacing with something else. From rp@rpryan.com Wed Jun 6 14:11:26 2001 From: rp@rpryan.com (rp@rpryan.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:11:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. From bjsam1@msn.com Wed Jun 6 14:58:19 2001 From: bjsam1@msn.com (bjsam1@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:58:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061458.f56EwJh28288@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello! I live in a unique area of Phoenix that contains nearly 300 date palms orginally planted in the 1930s. The neighbors in this area would like to know the best time to trim these trees to remove all sprouting dates since the dates are no longer harvested. It seems to me that if the trees are trimmed during the first 2 weeks in May, all the dates get removed and there is no problem throughout the year with excess dates dropping to the ground. Do you have any information on this subject? Sincerely, Barbra J. Samuels From cwdl@tri.com Wed Jun 6 15:21:14 2001 From: cwdl@tri.com (cwdl@tri.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:21:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061521.f56FLEh01977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i,m looking for something that will grow side of hill very rocky low watering, very hot, and the small animals won't eat. year around, with some color..any help, thank you donna glisson From russell9009@aol.com Wed Jun 6 15:37:30 2001 From: russell9009@aol.com (russell9009@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:37:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061537.f56FbUh05750@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it possible to grow hostas in Phoenix, AZ? If so how do I go about it? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 16:40:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:40:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E5D02.5AA7CEB8@AuroraNow.org> rp@rpryan.com wrote: > > This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good Luck! -- Sherryl From jstover@gilland.com Wed Jun 6 17:33:44 2001 From: jstover@gilland.com (jstover@gilland.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> While visiting your area recently, we discovered a prolific, open bush that we would like to identify. This plant had green slender leaves, and its flower stalks were topped with 4-8 inch spikes of small blossoms in a startling red-orange color. Its height was usually around 3-4 feet, and it was used extensively in shopping center and freeway landscaping. Could you provide the horticultural name for the plant, and/or its growing characteristics? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 19:20:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E827F.D5339ABC@AuroraNow.org> You were looking at a Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima/poinciana pulcherrima). Tropical deciduous shrub. Most visitors to our low deserts are struck by this beauty (it's not a native, but thrives here with little care). Unfortunately, it couldn't handle cold winters, although it reportedly can rebound from freezing back in not-too-harsh climates. The seeds and seed pods are poisonous. There is also a taller, more tree-like yellow variety called Mexican (c. mexicana) or Yellow Bird of Paradise (c. gilliesii/poinciana gilliesii). In warm climates, it is a quick, prolific grower and can reach 10 feet. Some people cut them back in winter to keep them at the 3-4' height you saw. They can remain evergreen in mild winters (here in Tucson, they were mostly burgundy leaved to decidous this past winter, but the two winters previous they stayed mostly green). They bloom all during the warm season, need very little water and full sun. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From slicknjo@aol.com Wed Jun 6 19:59:35 2001 From: slicknjo@aol.com (slicknjo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 12:59:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061959.f56JxZh23776@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our 11 yrs old Arizona Sweet Orange tree is not bearing well. The tree looks great, we get lots of blossums. The fruit is small and the last couple of years we only get about a dozen oranges. This year we noticed the new fruit is turning very dark brown, getting very hard and then falling off the tree. Again, it looks like we will only have a few oranges. We feel we are giving the tree enough water and we fertilize are recommended. Any ideas? Thank you. From southpawaz@home.com Wed Jun 6 22:05:06 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 15:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1EA912.96EEE25B@home.com> emily@primeshot.com wrote: > > Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? Emily, There is information on growing both of these in Phoenix at the links below: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Anacardiaceae/Mangifera_indica.html http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lauraceae/Persea_americana.html -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 6 23:14:54 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:14:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders dying Message-ID: I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will be listed under county government i n your phone book. If as your nursery says there is a disease that is killing the oleanders the Cooperative Extension will know about it and if there is a cure they should have an answer. Fortunately here in southern Arizona we have not had a problem with oleanders dying. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan tree care Message-ID: Bob, You didn't say where you live or when you planted the pecan tree. If planted later than February then the chances of survival are marginal if you live in the low desert. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html A bulletin on pecan care put out by the Maricopa Cooperative Extension states that the pecan tree requires the elements nitrogen and zinc which should only be applied after the tree is one year old. If you live in Maricopa county our soils typically have enough phosphorus to supply the need of pecans. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From scsvrs@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 01:01:51 2001 From: scsvrs@hotmail.com (scsvrs@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:01:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:20:28 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:20:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potted Gardenia In-Reply-To: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Valerie - Gardenias are tough plants to grow out here. They don't like sudden temperature changes and sudden humidity can cause them to act up, too. They also don't like direct sun so having them in the shade is good, though they also like some sun. They also need periodic feedings of Miracid or a similar product. I have two in the ground that did well while they were getting dappled light from a palm tree. But now that the palm is tall they get full sun instead of the dappled shade in the hot afternoon and they've also started dropping their buds. They need constant care. You can look at other discussions on gardenias if you go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in gardenias to search on that word. Good luck. They're nice plants but require an awful lot of pampering and sometimes no matter what you do, they bite the dust anyway. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of scsvrs@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 6:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:23:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Lantana, Etc In-Reply-To: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in lantana pruning and hit search and you'll see other discussions regarding pruning of lantanas. You can do the same for oleander and bougainvillea or anything else that suits your fancy. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:15 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 04:56:33 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:56:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! References: Message-ID: <3B1F0981.45F279A3@qwest.net> Tom: I didn't see that a response had been posted to your question. This is something that I would suggest calling a professional arborist for. If you do not know of one in your area, you can go to the following link to locate a certified arborist by zip code http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > > I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a > crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow > inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do > something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening > and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and > around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will > not last through this year's monsoon season. > > The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' > span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a > massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. > > Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left > to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? > Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of > right away! > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 05:04:29 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 22:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade Trees References: <200105042312.f44NCMW17168@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1F0B5D.A18CABBF@qwest.net> I didn't see that you had received a response to your question regarding shade trees. The following link will take you to our web page, publications section where you will find a listing of publications on Ornamentals. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals There is a publication available entitled Trees for Maricopa County. Publication #MC13. The top of the page will give you instructions on how to order a copy or you may find a copy in a binder at your local library branch. The binder is 635 General Reference. The librarian can help you find it. The title is Horticulture Publications. You can then make a photo copy of the publication. Sue Bass Master Gardener accordino@qwest.net wrote: > Can you recommend a good shade tree for > my Northwest Phoenix yard? It will be on the > south side of the > house (lots of sun in the summer). Two fruit > trees in this area, an apricot and a plum, > have both died after 3 years. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From smcobain@aol.com Thu Jun 7 15:57:32 2001 From: smcobain@aol.com (smcobain@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 08:57:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071557.f57FvWh09365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have recently moved to Mesa from Washington State and are slowly learning about gardening in the Southwest. Question...some of my young plants and a small orange tree seem to be in some distress because of some "webby" stuff clustered on the foliage. Any help would sure be appreciated. Thanks! Stephanie Cobain From maas61@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 19:42:27 2001 From: maas61@hotmail.com (maas61@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:42:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HOW OFTEN SHOULD ONE WATER A LANTANA BUSH From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Jun 7 20:01:01 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering lantana References: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1FDD7D.817DBD5B@AuroraNow.org> Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Lantana require very little watering once established. I'm watering my young gallon size March-planted lantanas once a week right now and even that may be a little too often but they're on the same soaker hose as other plants that seem to want to be watered every week right now. Deep, infrequent water is best. If you water or fertilize too much, you'll get far fewer blooms. I haven't fed mine at all, actually. Hope that helps. -- Sherryl Stalinski (not a master gardener) From michelemc@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 20:23:27 2001 From: michelemc@qwest.net (michelemc@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:23:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072023.f57KNRh08984@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is best to feed palm trees. I'm told Queen Palms actually need some type of feed that can be "poured" into center stalk of tree. HELP! I do not know if these like acid or alkalin type. thanks, Michele Clark From phg@citieswestpub.com Thu Jun 7 20:50:24 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:50:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 21:31:20 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 14:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Paint on Citrus Trees In-Reply-To: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: The paint prevents the trunk from being burned if it's exposed during the summer. Latex white paint will do the trick and not harm the tree. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of phg@citieswestpub.com Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 1:50 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:02:12 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:02:12 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pool plantings Message-ID: Here are a few ideas for planting around a pool: Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia) Juniperus sabina 'tamariscifolia' (Tam juniper) Pittosporum tobira (Japanese mock orange) Raphiolepis indica (India hawthorn) Viburnum japonica (Japanese viburnum) many of the palms Cycas revulata (Sago palm) Camellia japonica (Japanese camillia) Basically, look for plants that don't produce much litter, don't have invasive roots, and are not thorny. Once you have a list of plants you like, check to make sure they will thrive in the sun exposure and microclimate where you plant to place them. Recently, I've seen some very attactive designs with open areas around the pool and a native, natural vegetation around the area -- including cacti, agave, etc. -- very nice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mcp5457@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) > >could you please write and send some information on what types of >plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate >it. >Thanks, >Cira Passley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:11:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:11:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: Sherryl, Don't no if anyone else responded to your question. I would recommend Roundup as weeds appear. More importantly, apply a pre-emergent twice a year to keep weed seeds from sprouting and growing. Pre-emergents don't affect growing vegetation but they do keep all seeds for sprouting and growing (so don't plant them where you want to grow wildflowers from seed or where you want to harvest desirable volunteers like penstemon for replanting.) Birds, especially doves, do a great job of removing seeds. Of course, they usually go for a newly seeded vegetable patch or lawn area :-) I don't think plastic works. It soon works its way to the surface and then breaks down in the sun and shreds in the wind, looking very unsightly, in my experience. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Don Garnett , arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer >Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 > >Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas >where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? >We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm >creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just >damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot >dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the >dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep >the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite >route there? > >Thanks. > > >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. >Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree with few oranges Message-ID: It is well known that citrus trees do have good and bad fruit bearing years. Why not check out this website to make sure that you are giving the orange tree adequate water, the fruit crop depends on it. www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Shrubs Message-ID: <60.f70c495.2851a32b@aol.com> Lantana and Bougainvillea can be pruned nearly anytime except late fall or winter, they are both frost tender and since pruning spurs new growth which frost burns easily. I prefer to prune oleanders in the winter when they are not blooming so that when spring comes they will soon be ready to bloom. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From PatBern7@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:46:46 2001 From: PatBern7@aol.com (PatBern7@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 20:46:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106080346.f583kkh09741@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our tangelo and grapefruit trees are 3-1/2 yrs. old and very healthy looking, but are not producing much fruit. Our grapefruit tree had 5 grapefruits and our tangelo tree had 7 tangelos this past growing season. We have watered them deeply, applied fertilizer, but to date we hardly see any fruit on the trees. My neighbors on either side of us have trees that are loaded with fruit, even though their trees are approx. the same age as ours. What seems to be the problem? Is there some type of fertilizer that promotes more fruit? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:42:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:42:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees not bearing fruit Message-ID: <92.15c6882b.2851b199@aol.com> Subj: Citrus trees not bearing fruit Date: 06/07/2001 9:38:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: RodMcQ6 To: PAT BERN 7 Citrus trees typically do not bear much fruit until they are at least four years old. Have some patience, keep up the deep watering and fertilization as recommended and perhaps this will be the year when you will have a good crop of fruit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:45:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:45:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm tree care Message-ID: <15.15736b52.2851b275@aol.com> Michelle, The food that you refer to being poured into the heart of Queen Palms is Bordeau, a fungicide which many in the industry have recommended to cure a fungus called bud rot. However bud rot according to the University of Arizona plant pathology department has been practically non existant, they have 0nly two cases of bud rot in Queen Palms reported in over 50 years. The fertilizer to be used on palms is one that is specifically recommended for palms. Most palms tolerate alkaline soils but would probably do better in neutral or slightly acid soils.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From gusnaz@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 8 17:13:09 2001 From: gusnaz@worldnet.att.net (Gus Nelson) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 10:13:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender Message-ID: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou From nreyes777@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 21:11:56 2001 From: nreyes777@hotmail.com (nreyes777@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082111.f58LBuh12892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is approximately 24". Please suggest plants for the following conditions: 1. north facing shaded entryway 2. compact habit 3. evergreen I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new birds of paradise plants? Thank you, Noemi Reyes From clementedesign@mindspring.com Fri Jun 8 21:44:13 2001 From: clementedesign@mindspring.com (clementedesign@mindspring.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:44:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. From sliu@apsc.com Fri Jun 8 23:18:12 2001 From: sliu@apsc.com (sliu@apsc.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082318.f58NICh02621@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:12 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Planting and Flowers In-Reply-To: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: One plant that's nice this time of year is portulaca - kind of a succulent low-growing plant. It comes in different flower colors - yellow, orange, etc. and looks very nice. Since it's a succulent, it doesn't need as much water as some other plants but it does need occasional water. Purslane (also in the portulaca family) is pretty, too, but in my experience, it needs more water for flowering. I've planted these in the summer and they've done well. Ice plant (another low growing succulent) does well, too. These are annuals that will die when it gets cold. I have also planted vinca in the summer and they're doing nicely. These are flowers with nice green leaves that grow about 12 inches tall. They come in a variety of colors. But you MUST give them lots of water when you first plant them. After they're established, they need moderate water once established. These are perennials. You should be able to find all these plants now in garden centers and home centers. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of clementedesign@mindspring.com Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 2:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender In-Reply-To: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> Message-ID: I have some experience with lavender and have found that they don't do well in pots in our heat. I think that the soil and roots get too hot in pots. But lavender in general does very well here if planted in the ground and gets adequate water. I have about 5 different varieties. A couple of them seem to be better at handling the heat that some of the others. I have two very large augustifolia lavender bushes that are happy. I planted them last year from one-gallon pots and they are about 3 feet wide now and spiked the lavender flowers in the spring. Canary Island lavender does well, too, but there's no fragrance to it. But it has bright purple spikes that look great. Check out the High Country Gardens site http://www.highcountrygardens.com/shop/results.html?sku=&name_latin=&name_co mmon=lavender&id=bc00736eec84c2125d594e118edf42f1&quicksearch=1&quicksearch. x=32&quicksearch.y=8 These folks sell a lot of plants for the desert southwest and have a variety of lavenders with writeups. Maybe you can find yours based on their description. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Gus Nelson Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 10:13 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DEKJAN21@aol.com Sun Jun 10 02:10:13 2001 From: DEKJAN21@aol.com (DEKJAN21@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100210.f5A2ADh06238@Ag.Arizona.Edu> all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank you... From j_harrell@NetZero.net Sun Jun 10 02:18:46 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 19:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <3B22D905.98579AFB@NetZero.net> Dear Gardeners, My son-in-law fears he has lost his hardy tif sod - is this possible? It seems deader than a doornail - dry and wheat-colored. The sod was overseeded with winter rye, and as the hot weather came on, he quit watering it a little to "let the rye die" - was this lethal to the tif? Western Sod has told him to deep water it every three days, but it hasn't come back although perhaps he wasn't faithful enough to do it. Before he laid the sod, he spread some sand to even out the low places - harmful? However, the winter rye did fine. Any hope? Thanks, Jackie NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jun 10 03:21:16 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 20:21:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just noticed that a small patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting. I thought that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the archives. From what I read in other sources, it seems like I shouldn't worry about this. But I want to be sure because it's just starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the time, I suppose. (I don't think that I'm overwatering it. I give it deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the temperature.) I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks could give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just noticed that = a small=20 patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting.  I = thought=20 that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the=20 archives.  From what I read in other sources, it seems like I=20 shouldn't worry about this.  But I want to be sure because it's = just=20 starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the = time, I=20 suppose.  (I don't think that I'm overwatering it.  = I give it=20 deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the=20 temperature.)  I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks = could=20 give me.
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180-- From jbfeller@home.com Sun Jun 10 04:12:27 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (jbfeller@home.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 21:12:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100412.f5A4CRh17034@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I see a lot of tips for watering lawns and a lot of tips for watering trees, but haven’t seen any tips for watering both. Here’s my situation. I have 4 well-established eucalyptus trees in my back yard. 70-80 ft tall, trunks from 16" to 24" diam, branches out to about 15 to 20 ft diam, roots must be out that far, too. I periodically deep water them by letting the hose run and they have survived in spite of my inconsistent efforts. I am in the process installing an automatic lawn sprinkling system for a lawn area that will include the trees. Will the pop up lawn sprinklers be sufficient for the grass and trees or will I also need a method of deep watering the trees, like bubblers for each tree on their own zone? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:38:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Apple Care] Message-ID: <3B23CCCA.595BE74B@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 28602 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:53 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (63.226.138.6) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:51 -0000 Received: (qmail 27794 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO docs.advinfoc.com) (216.89.100.226) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from [216.89.100.192] by docs.advinfoc.com (NTMail 5.06.0016/NT4175.00.faf02432) with ESMTP id exqxcaaa for lindaguy@uswest.net; Wed, 30 May 2001 11:04:09 -0400 Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:56:45 -0400 Message-ID: From: "Helen Garrett" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Apple Care MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 1 (Highest) X-MSMail-Priority: High X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: High X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 What would you suggest to help young budding apples to grow? It seems that the birds are getting them faster than they can grow. And, what about bug control? Thanks --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:44:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:44:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palms] Message-ID: <3B23CE23.C8841642@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 6475 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (63.226.138.8) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: (qmail 504 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-r10.mx.aol.com) (152.163.225.106) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from VO38@aol.com by imo-r10.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.22.) id z.3c.c630e56 (6964) for ; Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 EDT Message-ID: <3c.c630e56.284678e7@aol.com> From: VO38@aol.com To: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: Queen Palms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall? I see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this? I live in Orange County, Southern Ca. Thanks, Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall?  I
see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this?  I live in
Orange County, Southern Ca.
Thanks,
Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary-- --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:49:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <24.14bc263b.28552e35@aol.com> You may have cut back too much on the irrigation to let the rye grass die and especially if the turf was put down last year. If the turf does not show any signs of life after watering for another two weeks it is probably dead. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees, watering when planted in sod Message-ID: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: <74.b90d994.28552e34@aol.com> Ursula, If the splitting of your Mesquite tree is on the bark only, it may be from drought stress and you should shorten the interval between irrigations especially during this hot weather. If the wood has started to crack then the limb should be removed for safety and to minimise damage that would be caused if the whole limb came down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 21:15:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 17:15:20 EDT Subject: Fwd: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <118.218220.28553d68@aol.com> --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? All parts of the oleander are considered poisonous 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? If the oleander trees have not received much water the roots will have grown a long way to get water. 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? Native trees can get by in the summer with little water but the non native trees will require deep water every week to 10 days in summer. 4. What is the origin of this tree? Oleanders are native to the Mediterraneam area and across Asia and Japan. Thanks, August august@rraz.net Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (rly-yc02.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.34]) by air-yc03.mail.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:51 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:27 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f5AJo3h05296; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:50:03 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.4]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with SMTP id f5AJnhh05227 for ; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:43 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 53937 invoked by alias); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu@fixme Received: (qmail 53886 invoked by uid 0); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Received: from vdsl-130-13-90-10.phnx.uswest.net (HELO qwest.net) (130.13.90.10) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> From: Linda Guy X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Arid_gardener Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF" Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.1 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary-- From fireplug04@excite.com Sun Jun 10 22:38:34 2001 From: fireplug04@excite.com (fireplug04@excite.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:38:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jun 11 01:35:33 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 18:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrubs and Trees on 1-1/2 Acres In-Reply-To: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - I'll let one of the Master Gardeners answer your questions but I do have 2 cents worth of information (primarily because I just came in from the outside and saw that some of my bushes need trimming because they've grown so fast). I'm not a Master Gardener. There are a couple of shrubs that do very well here and grow very fast. One is Cape Honeysuckle. It has bright green shiny leaves with many orange trumpet-shaped flowers during some parts of the year. It needs some watering. It grows VERY fast. Another bush - a little airier is Arizona Yellow Bells (tecoma stans). It has little medium green leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers during the summer. It also grows very fast. Needs some water, but not a lot. The less water, the less flowers. There seem to be two kinds - one with the yellow flowers that grows about 6 feet tall if untrimmed and one with orange flowers that grows as big as a house. I didn't know this and planted one of each next to my house and am constantly cutting back the orange one because I don't want such a huge bush there. But the yellow one stays at a good size. Of course, there's bougainvillea which is lovely. Just make sure that you buy the shrub kind and not the climbing kind. They need water when planted (and make sure that you avoid disturbing the rootball when planting) but once they're fully grown you don't need to water them anymore. On this one - the less water, the more flowers (bracts). On the trees, I have a mesquite (the kind without thorns - I think it's an Australian or Chilean mesquite) that I bought for shade. It grows fast and is nice and airy. You see these all over the Valley. They get to be quite big and have a large canopy. As far as planting goes, I wouldn't plant anything during the summer. I did plant some bushes during one summer and SOME of the plants survived but they had a hard time of it. I'd wait until it's cooler. Good luck. (I think that I've planted 1-1/2 acres' worth of plants in my puny little backyard. As the Hill Street Blues saying goes: It's a jungle out there.) Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of fireplug04@excite.com Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 3:39 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bacanorajoe@earthlink.net Mon Jun 11 03:31:23 2001 From: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net (J.O. Teague) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have any ideas here? From kberg@qwest.net Mon Jun 11 13:03:06 2001 From: kberg@qwest.net (kberg@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 06:03:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106111303.f5BD36h11275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! I believe I have what appear to be 2 beautiful ash trees growing in our back yard. The diameter of the trunk might be about 10-12 inches, I was guessing the trees are about 12 years old. We recently inherited some cats that are using the trunks of these trees as their scratching posts! The bark is starting to split and fall away from one of the trees but not the other. Could the cats be causing this or is their something else I should look at that my be endangering our beautiful trees? Thank you! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 14:45:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:45:44 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: The ironwood native to the Sonoran Desert, Olneya tesota, is the tree I know by this name. Is this the tree species you have? What part od Northern Tucson do you live? The ironwood we have here is frost tender and I am wondering if temperatures are too cold in your area for this tree to thrive. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "J.O. Teague" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying >Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 > >I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what >appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the >trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two >years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a >year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have >any ideas here? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:02:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:02:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants dying Message-ID: Could you give us more specific information? Do the plants wilt Do the leaves turn brown Do leaves and/or stems disappear with no trace Are there holes or chewed edges on the leaves Are leaves brown on the edges or splotchy looking Are there trails of plant parts leading away from the plants Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: DEKJAN21@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be >something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any >part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, >desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank >you... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:13:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:13:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes Message-ID: Grapes grow well in our climate with adequate water. They make great shade and usually produce grapes, but my experience is that the grapes are smaller -- as you've noted. Vineyard grapes are tended to produce large grapes -- correct pruning in January is crucial; after fruit set, clusters are thinned out and then later grapes from clusters are thinned again. One of our Master Gardeners has a vineyard in Vail and he could give you more specific information. His email address is: charronvineyards@theriver.com Linda Drew Master Gardeners >From: sliu@apsc.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) > >My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the >vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. > >What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:30:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:30:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen shrubs, north exposure Message-ID: Bird of paradise can grow in plentiful sun so you old ones may be leggy because of the north exposure. A few examples of evergreen shubs that do well in shade are: Abelia grandiflora (glossy abelia) Cocculus laurifolius (cocculus) Fatsia japonica ( Japanese aralia) Myrtus communis 'compacta'(dwarf myrtle) Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo) Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive) Viburnum japonicum (Japanese viburnum) Asparagus densiflorus "sprengeri' (asparagus fern) It really depends on the look you want. Does the area get direct sun at any time in the day? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nreyes777@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) > >I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of >paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is >approximately 24". > >Please suggest plants for the following conditions: >1. north facing shaded entryway >2. compact habit >3. evergreen > >I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new >birds of paradise plants? > >Thank you, >Noemi Reyes > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From jbfeller@home.com Mon Jun 11 18:24:39 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (Jack Feller) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:24:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trees, watering when planted in sod References: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Message-ID: <000b01c0f2a3$c6e8a3e0$c9390f18@phnx3.az.home.com> Thanks for your reply. I have used bubblers successfully at other properties with a shallow basin around the eucalyptus trees that hold the water till it penetrates. I've already trenched for the bubbler lines along with the sprinkler lines. How often should mature eucalyptus be deep watered like that? What should the diameter of the basins be? I live on a acre with a 6' block wall around the property. I want to plant trees inside the wall to make a green barrier above the wall. Also possibly around my house for shade. I want them green all year, low maintenance, drought resistant, fast growing, etc. I've heard that African Sumac is a good bet and have seen some and think they will work. How far in from the wall should they be? How far apart? How fast do they grow? Any alternatives to African Sumac that might work. Thanks, Jack ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 1:10 PM Subject: Trees, watering when planted in sod > Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 > inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep > water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless > you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at > one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with > built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could > continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist > > From IvaHD@mindspring.com Mon Jun 11 19:43:54 2001 From: IvaHD@mindspring.com (Iva Hacker-Delany) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:43:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Basil Message-ID: Hi, I started some basil a few weeks ago in a pot. It started off fine, I had 5 healthy looking buds, one died fairly quickly the other four were doing fine (now about 2 inches tall) but another started looking pale a few days ago, and when I looked closely I saw some tiny white specs up and down all the stems. I over all they seem to be growing fairly slowly (I planted them about 8 or 9 weeks ago and they are only 2 inches tall. I am worried that the white dots are something that will kill the basil. thanks -Iva From phg@citieswestpub.com Mon Jun 11 22:10:01 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:10:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jun 11 23:22:07 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 16:22:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010611160451.00ac2230@ag.arizona.edu> The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Ceasar Mazier, Director or Horticulture, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8156. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From stewart.clements@belden-cd.com Tue Jun 12 03:17:18 2001 From: stewart.clements@belden-cd.com (stewart.clements@belden-cd.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:17:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120317.f5C3HEq03790@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have Pearl Scale in my front lawn. Currently, there are two patches both 2-3 feet in diameter. My question is...can I kill the infestation by letting the grass die (stop watering the lawn)? If so, do I still have to remove the dirt within the infected areas? I plan to replace all of the grass so the only issue is whether I have to remove the dirt within the infected areas. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Stewart Clements From llfarrington@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 04:41:55 2001 From: llfarrington@earthlink.net (llfarrington@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 21:41:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120441.f5C4ftq10912@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be moving to Chandler with my company, Toyota Financial Services, in September or October from Seattle, Washington. I have a large-6'tall-common calla lilly that I would like to move with me. It was a gift and has been in the friend's family for several generations-at one time was at home on Mercer Island, Washington. I would appreciate any suggestions you may be able to offer to ensure a successful move and transplant. Thank you! From reeva5@qwest.net Tue Jun 12 14:26:04 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:26:04 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses Message-ID: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <001001c0f34b$9cb3cde0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Jun 12 16:30:50 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 09:30:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses References: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3B2643BA.3B86CE97@email.sps.mot.com> Are you sure they are burning? Please describe what the leaves look like right now. I'm suspecting spider mites, and not burning if you have not been fertilizing. Are the leaves turning yellow than brown, starting at the base of the plant, and working their way up the plant? Do you see little webs on the underside of the leaves? Do the bottom of the leaves look rough compared to the top? If so, I would suspect spidermites. The best thing to get rid of these is to spray the underside of your rose bushes with a strong jet of water two or three times a week. A water wand works really great for this. This will wash the spidermites off, and discourage them from coming back, as they do not like high humidity area's. They like it nice and dry and hot. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 172 Rose Bushes Planted! 100 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Randee wrote: > BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth > are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. From kapalmer@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 18:57:51 2001 From: kapalmer@earthlink.net (kapalmer@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:57:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121857.f5CIvpq16933@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I "force" bulbs planted in the garden, such as tulips, gladiola, iris, daffodils, to bloom in the fall instead of spring. With blooming in the fall and cooler weather I was hoping the blooms would last longer. Once, I had a gladiola that bloomed in October/November and the bloom lasted 2 weeks! It was just a fluke. I'd like to repeat that with other bulbs and have a nice fall garden. How can I do that? Thanks, Kathy From scott.howie@onsemi.com Tue Jun 12 19:38:43 2001 From: scott.howie@onsemi.com (scott.howie@onsemi.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:38:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? Thanks. Scott Howie From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Jun 12 20:37:36 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:37:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available AMENDED Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010612133524.00ab4ef0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week. The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week.

The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team.  The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds.  This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering.  Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events.  Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis.  Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred.  Related experience may be substituted.

To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_4131336==_.ALT-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:50:39 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:50:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26809F.FAACDED5@AuroraNow.org> I'm not a master gardener or arborist, but the Desert Ironwood, if relatively mature and established, should definitely not be on a drip system. If anything, a deep soaking once a month in the dry season would be all it needs. I don't know how long you've had this tree on the system, but you may want to reduce it's waterings gradually. Most wild/native ironwood populations only bloom heavily every other year. Next year you should have a good purple display again. scott.howie@onsemi.com wrote: > > We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? > Thanks. Scott Howie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:56:47 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:56:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> It sure sounds like it! What kind of weed killer did you use? If you ever use systemic weed killers like Round-up, any little overspray can affect surrounding plants. It helps to create a cone for the nozzle (top half of an empty gallon milk jug works well) to direct the spray only at the weeds, but its still best to keep your distance from desired plants. I was warned recently that "permanent" weed killers, such as soil sterliants, can spread through the ground slowly over a hundred yards killing everything in its wake. phg@citieswestpub.com wrote: > > About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From jennaz31@aol.com Tue Jun 12 23:02:01 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:02:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106122302.f5CN21q07319@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi I have 6 night blooming jasmine bushes that seem to be having a problem. The leave are curling up and they look like someone has bleached the ends. I do not see any pests on the underside of the leaves and thinking it may be an iron issue I applied chelated iron--I noticed that 3 of the bushes had buds in early May, but have not seen any since--when does this plant flower? I am watering 1 1/2 hours every 3 days. Thanks for your help Jenn From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 00:18:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:18:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <71.e47f7ef.28580b3c@aol.com> Stewart, The following article on Pearl Scale by Dave Langston and Sharon Dewey should answer your questions. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture PEARL SCALE Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Pearl Scale information: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC45, write to 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video Write: Sharon Dewey, Western Sod, P.O. Box 10610, Casa Grande, AZ 85230 Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional, a local turfgrass troubleshooter and a Master Gardener with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Dave Langston, Ph.D. is the Superintendent of the Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center, an Extension Specialist in Entomology with the University of Arizona. He can be reached at langston@ag.arizona.edu or write to 37860 W. Smith-Enke Rd., Maricopa, AZ 85239-3010. From dejay7@tampabay.rr.com Wed Jun 13 02:25:29 2001 From: dejay7@tampabay.rr.com (Don Dennis) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:25:29 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: <000a01c0f3b0$1daf5f40$1527a418@tampabay.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am trying to find this lant as I ws told it likes hot dry climates. If = anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am trying to find this lant as I ws = told it likes=20 hot dry climates. If anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0-- From libbyjeffg@earthlink.net Wed Jun 13 04:09:34 2001 From: libbyjeffg@earthlink.net (libbyjeffg@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:09:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106130409.f5D49Yq13322@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Mesquite tree that has been in the ground for 1 year. It started out as a 1 gallon plant. It has grown at a phenomenal rate. I pruned it last week to encourage more growth, 8 ft. Now the tree nearly lays on the ground when I take it loose from its stakes. Should I leave it staked up or try to let it grow in whatever direction it desires? From jdtiffan@aol.com Wed Jun 13 14:44:39 2001 From: jdtiffan@aol.com (jdtiffan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:44:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131444.f5DEidq10609@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a very large, shallow back yard surrounded by a block fence. What recommendations would you make for a hedge, against the block wall, that will not intrude too far into the yard. We basically want to hide the wall. In the yard we have very mature orange trees. Thank you for your consideration of our situation. From mgdlite37d@aol.com Wed Jun 13 17:18:46 2001 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:18:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131718.f5DHIkq06898@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have a problem of tiny ants running up and down along my planter. Planter has granite in it and lantana, bougnvila. Donot want to use harsh chemicals because I have great pet cat that Iwalk early mornings for a few minutes a day, then back in the house he goes when I give him the recall command. Must be a better way to control this other than chemicals. Oh by the way when the weather cools they(ants )are gone. Need some suggestions. Thanks Sal From nannygranny@netzero.net Wed Jun 13 18:35:38 2001 From: nannygranny@netzero.net (nannygranny@netzero.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:35:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131835.f5DIZcq20886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a Chinese wisteria about 5 years ago and so far I haven't had any blooms although the plant has grown up the side of the house. I know it takes awhile for the first blooms to start but I am wondering if the plant is lacking something. It is on the North side of the house and is shaded most of the day except for 2-3 hours in late afternoon. I read in Sunset Western Garden Book that it "blooms in considerable shade" so I went ahead and put it there. What should I be feeding or doing to it to get it to bloom? From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:08:45 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131908.f5DJ8jq26541@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:11:52 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:11:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131911.f5DJBqq27109@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I go about finding out what utility lines are buried in our yard, and where they are? Our house is about 25 years old, and I have no idea about the original builder. I live in Mesa. This question is prompted because shortly after we moved into the house, there was a problem with something in the neighborhood (water, or electricity, but I can't remember which) and whomever was responsible had to come and dig up a 6 foot by 4 foot area in our back lawn in order to get at something to fix it. I'm now interested in planting in that general area, and need to know what I can and can't plant and where. Thanks! Karin Crawford From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Jun 13 19:41:28 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] green beans not producing? In-Reply-To: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3B1F829E00003F64@phobos.email.Arizona.EDU> I planted green beans in tucson around march 15, and the plants looked great. But I only got a single bean! Not all that many flowers, and they just drop off. Suggstions? My cow-peas are doing fine. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant treatment, non chemical Message-ID: <14.1592a5b5.2859483a@aol.com> Sal, For warm weather use make up a slurry of citrus peel and water in your blender, locate the ant nest and pour the slurry on the nest. Another suggestion is to put a small amount of Cream of Wheat near the ant nest or by their trail. When the ants eat the Cream of Wheat they swell up and poof. This will take a little longer than the citrus slurry. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, staking Message-ID: If you still have the nursery stake which was tied directly to the trunk of the tree in place, then you should restake the tree with two or three stakes located about two feet from the trunk and tied in only one place. The tree must be allowed to move in order to strengthen the trunk. I hope that when you pruned the tree you didn't remove the lower branches. It is good pruning practice not to remove any thing from a newly planted tree for two years. Leaving all the branches on helps to strengthen the trunk so that it can stand alone. It is most important to water newly planted trees properly. so that the roots will grow deep in order to anchor the mesquite, a fast growing tree. Assuming that you live in the low desert ( Phoenix Area ) you should be deep watering the Mesquite once every 10 days to 2 weeks in summer. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture where you will find great info on pruning as well as watering on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Covering a block wall Message-ID: <10f.11ab235.2859483b@aol.com> Why not use Cat's Claw Vine to cover your block wall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Utility Lines Message-ID: <46.1622ef35.28594838@aol.com> A company called Blue Stake will locate your utility lines for you. Call them at 602 263 1100. If you want to know the location of each utility line, when you call ask them what color line represents what utility. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From appled55@aol.com Wed Jun 13 23:17:32 2001 From: appled55@aol.com (appled55@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:17:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106132317.f5DNHWq20047@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am attempting to find out about trees that grown in climates that are hot year-round. Do those trees ever lose their leaves and go dormant? I would appreciate any response you can give me or anyplace you can point me for further information. Thanks! From alamo@ultrasw.com Thu Jun 14 00:01:57 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 17:01:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 01:54:53 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:54:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, folks! Does this vitamin plant starter really work? I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference with my new plantings. I guess my question is: is it worth buying and using? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, = folks!
 
Does this vitamin = plant starter=20 really work?  I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference = with my=20 new plantings.  I guess my question is:  is it worth buying = and using?=20
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0-- From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 02:00:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: Your question made me do a little research because I'm a proponent of not feeding them very much, watering them little if at all, and I get lots of flowers -- but this is only after the plant is fully established in the ground and a couple of years old. So here is what I have come up with. My Plants for Dry Climates book says that overwatering and overfertilizing causes the plants to bloom little, if at all. However, Mr. Gordon Braswell (a former retired nursery owner who specialized in bougainvilleas makes mention that they need to be fertilized. So I guess the point is to find the right amount of fertilizer and not overdo it. (I fertilize and frequently water my younger plants, but do nothing with the older established ones.) You may want to check out Mr. Braswell's web page at http://bougainvillea.freeyellow.com/bougainvillea.html and go to the Bougainvillea Culture section. It's chock full of information. He also explains the 'flowering' cycle, which was something that had me stumped for a while until I read the explanation on his web page. Keep in mind that he lives in Florida, so conditions are little different there, but the basics should still be the same. Mr. Braswell is also very nice about responding to questions via his site. On the watering - if they're wilting, they need more water -- especially while they're still so young. I would try watering them three times a week and then tapering off when the weather gets cooler again. You could check, though, to see if they stay wilted into the evening. Sometimes plants 'wilt' when it's very hot but spring back later in the day. If they stay wilted in the evening, definitely give them more water. Good luck! San Diego Red is so vibrant; I love that strain. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Signa Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 5:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From agallar@prodigy.net Thu Jun 14 05:02:34 2001 From: agallar@prodigy.net (agallar@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:02:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106140502.f5E52Yq26314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had problems with my aptenia cordifolia groundcovers. They do great and grow for 1-2 years, then they get yellow and dry out from the ground up. This eventually kills them. Am I overwatering (1 time per week) or are there pests that attack this plant? Is there some thing that I can do to prevent this from happening, as it always attacks when the plants have matured and grown into very large covers? From plumbozz@home.com Thu Jun 14 13:50:36 2001 From: plumbozz@home.com (plumbozz@home.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141350.f5EDoaq09892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to let it go or if old canes should be taken out. Thanks. From Geri1947@aol.com Thu Jun 14 15:49:09 2001 From: Geri1947@aol.com (Geri1947@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:49:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141549.f5EFn9q24456@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Upon a recent visit to the Tucson Area I noticed all the oleaders planted around town. Since it seems to be that they do not require a great deal of care, we had been discussing for a while the planting of Oleanders at the entrance and down the fence line of our farm in Texas.I had planned on writing Texas A&M University but when I saw the article from the University of Arizona decided to write you. My questions: While Oleanders are poisonious to humans do you know if Cattle will eat them, and if so, are they poisonious to Cattle? Will they just avoid them? If you know the answer to these questions, kindly e-mail me at Geri1947@aol.com. Thank you for your time. Geri McCarty From rdstev8860@aol.com Thu Jun 14 22:50:15 2001 From: rdstev8860@aol.com (rdstev8860@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:50:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106142250.f5EMoFq06515@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 30 foot row of "bunny ears" cacti. The delicate yellow flowers were beautiful. After flowering, there are empty pods left. Can I knock those pods off and dicard? They look ugly as they sit on the cacti. Thank you for your time and patience to ge me an answer. Robert D Stevens From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:37:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:37:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blackberries, pruning Message-ID: We are trying blackberries in our Tucson garden for the first time. The blackberries that grow best in Tucson are primarily those developed in Texas, rather than varieties from Arkansas or the northern U.S. Here are some tips I found at Texas A&M: Pruning is necessary to maintain an orderly planting and to control diseases. Long handled "loppers" are best for pruning blackberries. During the first year, growth is sprawling and does not need topping. Although blackberry roots are perennial, tops are biennial. Prima canes are produced the first year and produce rapid vegetative growth only. Cut prima canes back when they reach 36 to 48" to encourage branching, as illustrated in Figure 1. Floricanes are the second year of the biennial cycle and bloom in March. The fruit ripens in May. After fruiting, the floricanes will die and should be cut to the ground. To make picking easier, some growers hedge the rows to a 4' height and a 3' width while others train the prima canes onto a vertical three wire trellis. Every three years mature plants need to be mowed to the ground to remove diseased wood and rejuvenate growth. This usually reduces yield the following year. It should only be attempted where irrigation can stimulate prima cane growth by the end of the season. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/blackberries/blackberries.html (includes illustrations of pruning) http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-325.html (information on trellis) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: plumbozz@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) > >Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the >proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that >followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to >let it go or if old canes should be taken out. > >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 14 23:49:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:49:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: <61.f2536d3.285aa774@aol.com> Ursula, During Master Gardener training we were informed that University of Arizona tests have shown that plants on which B1 starter was used did not respond any better than those that did not have the B1. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:53:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:53:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] false boxelder bug Message-ID: Your description sounds like false boxelder bugs. We have seen a lot of them this year for some reason. Usually, feeding causes some deformity on fruits but no real damage. For severe infestations, spray with pyrethrin following the label directions carefully since you are treating a food plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: eric_karin@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) > >We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they >didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed >that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. >What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 15 00:01:54 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 00:01:54 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: I used a search engine (google.com in this example) and entered the plant name for the search. The search returned 40 sites about the plant. Not sure what information you need. Why not try a search and visit the sites -- lots of information. It is a native of the Caribbean, hot but not necessarily dry. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Don Dennis" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella >Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:25:29 -0400 > >I am trying to find this lant as I ws told it likes hot dry climates. If >anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From aekozmiuk@hotmail.com Fri Jun 15 00:54:50 2001 From: aekozmiuk@hotmail.com (aekozmiuk@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 17:54:50 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106150054.f5F0soq24085@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be having a lot of figs soon. I don't know how to fix them. Do you have some recipes or ideas for me. I would appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks From Krulich@aol.com Fri Jun 15 01:00:35 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 21:00:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question - How to control spider mites on tomatoes Message-ID: Hi, I believe my tomato plants are infested with spider mites (maybe not spider mites but definitely mites). The bottom area of the plants are turning yellow and dying and I shook a branch on some paper and there are mites. I hosed them off today, but is there a better way to control them? Also, how do I prevent tomatoes from splitting? I try to keep the moisture as even as possible and put mulch down, but no matter WHAT I do they split. Thanks, Tom From sjbass@qwest.net Fri Jun 15 05:39:10 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:39:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Rabbit Management] Message-ID: <3B299F7E.6C1BD742@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Resending to the list as I forgot to to "cc" it. Sue Bass --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <3B299F4A.B1196FF5@qwest.net> Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 22:38:18 -0700 From: Sue Bass X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win98; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: tomeve@goingplatinum.com Subject: Rabbit Management Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Tom: The following link will take you to information on Rabbit Management. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit.htm At the bottom of that page or by using the following link http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/animals/rabbit1.htm you will find information on plants less attractive to rabbits. There is no guarantee that rabbits will not eat these plants, as a fellow list subscriber pointed out regarding the "illiterate rabbits" in her yard who do not seem to know they are not supposed to eat these plants. These plants are "less attractive" to rabbits and would be about the best recommendation we can give you. Sue Bass Master Gardener --------------FD6C35B3338B0F62515CAA73-- From oldrpaul@aol.com Fri Jun 15 14:12:53 2001 From: oldrpaul@aol.com (oldrpaul@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 07:12:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151412.f5FECrq05690@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an eggplant that is two years old. The problem is that 30-40% of eggplants (fruit) have a yellow color. After being cooked they have a very strong, and unsuitable tast. What does the plant need? From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 15 14:23:41 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 07:23:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) References: <3B299F7E.6C1BD742@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B2A1A6D.3EBA213C@AuroraNow.org> Hi all, I'm the subscriber with 5 acres full of rabbits who haven't read this list. From my experience the last several months (especially this month, with rabbits at their thirstiest) I'd offer the following observations: I read elsewhere that a "rule of thumb" for rabbits is that they'll tend to avoid very aromatic or gray/green and/or fuzzy leafed plants. This, for the most part has held true. They don't touch my salvia clevelandii (which is such a beautiful summer bloomer!). They ate to the ground, however, a salvia greggi with light pink flowers and totally ignored the salvia greggi with red/magenta flowers next to it. Go figure. Surprisingly, they also don't touch my cape honeysuckle (they tried one small branchlet and left it there) or my lemon bottle brush. They've taken a few nibbles off my cassia but leave the pieces, so they obviously don't like it very much. They do make short salad order of young, tender brittlebush but leave mature leaves and branches alone--same with the fairy dusters. They don't eat the desert marigold plants, but the flowers seem to be high on their favorite lists (I had a nice patch going, which quickly became a sea of flowerless stems!). Also, not listed on their "favorites" list is ice plants and portulaca--fleshy succulents. Gazania is listed as a "less eaten" but they devoured a half a plant in one night here the day I planted it and I had to dig it up and put it in a container on my step to save it (it bounced back surprisingly fast). They also haven't touched my buddleia, salvia leuchantha, texas ranger, mex or red bird of paradise or lantana (although last year they ate all my young lantana, but we were in an extended drought). What has worked: I bought a roll of 2' chicken wire and cut it in half lengthwise which left handy pokey wire at one edge. I made 1-2' dia. rings for around my young, tender plants, pokey side up. The chicken wire is barely noticeable around the plants and I'll remove it as soon as the plants mature a bit (I later noticed park personnel did the same thing in Saguaro Nat'l Park West). Also, most of my plants were put in before the decomposed granite, which has helped some (just some) deter the rabbits (but unfortunately, not the stray bull from the neighboring ranch). Now that the granite, along with some larger rip-rap rock are layed out, I've also noticed more large lizards and even a couple snakes. I think the gila monster who seems to hide under my porch may also be helping the situation. There has definitely been a decrease in populations this past month. We also have established a "critter cafe" near a bird feeder away from the landscaped areas and the few extra treats of salad and vegetable scraps from the kitchen seems to also keep them a bit more satisfied and distracted. Just observations from my experience :-). Good luck! I totally empathise with your frustration! -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 15 16:07:41 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:07:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) In-Reply-To: <3B2A1A6D.3EBA213C@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sheryll - I have run into almost exactly the same experiences as you and also have used the half-cut fencing which is - as you say - hardly noticeable. I found out one interesting side effect of tiling my patio from the rabbit standpoint. I used to have the standard concrete slab and recently had it tiled with Mexican adobe bricks that are various shades of brick color, orange, etc. - Blends in very nicely with the orangy gravel. The rabbits NEVER entered the patio area when it was concrete but now that it blends in with the yard gravel, they bodly walk where no rabbit has gone before. So they've started munching on my patio plants now. A couple of other plants that they don't seem to eat unless totally desparate: jasmine and hardenbergia. If you trim it, jasmine can be grown as a bush, which is what I'm working on. They also don't like lantana, though they may bite off a couple of flowers now and then. I have some beautiful bush lantanas that have brilliant colored flowers that they stay away from. My favorite is the compact Cowboy strain - it's got gorgeous red and yellow flowers and is rabbit-free. But all this rabbit stuff is going to come to an end on Monday. My neighbor and I are splitting the cost of walling our properties, so unless the rabbits can figure out how to unlock the gates or use pole vaults to heave themselves over the walls, I think I'll finally have a rabbit-free yard. That's obviously not an option for you with your acreage. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Friday, June 15, 2001 7:24 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Cc: tomeve@goingplatinum.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) Hi all, I'm the subscriber with 5 acres full of rabbits who haven't read this list. From my experience the last several months (especially this month, with rabbits at their thirstiest) I'd offer the following observations: I read elsewhere that a "rule of thumb" for rabbits is that they'll tend to avoid very aromatic or gray/green and/or fuzzy leafed plants. This, for the most part has held true. They don't touch my salvia clevelandii (which is such a beautiful summer bloomer!). They ate to the ground, however, a salvia greggi with light pink flowers and totally ignored the salvia greggi with red/magenta flowers next to it. Go figure. Surprisingly, they also don't touch my cape honeysuckle (they tried one small branchlet and left it there) or my lemon bottle brush. They've taken a few nibbles off my cassia but leave the pieces, so they obviously don't like it very much. They do make short salad order of young, tender brittlebush but leave mature leaves and branches alone--same with the fairy dusters. They don't eat the desert marigold plants, but the flowers seem to be high on their favorite lists (I had a nice patch going, which quickly became a sea of flowerless stems!). Also, not listed on their "favorites" list is ice plants and portulaca--fleshy succulents. Gazania is listed as a "less eaten" but they devoured a half a plant in one night here the day I planted it and I had to dig it up and put it in a container on my step to save it (it bounced back surprisingly fast). They also haven't touched my buddleia, salvia leuchantha, texas ranger, mex or red bird of paradise or lantana (although last year they ate all my young lantana, but we were in an extended drought). What has worked: I bought a roll of 2' chicken wire and cut it in half lengthwise which left handy pokey wire at one edge. I made 1-2' dia. rings for around my young, tender plants, pokey side up. The chicken wire is barely noticeable around the plants and I'll remove it as soon as the plants mature a bit (I later noticed park personnel did the same thing in Saguaro Nat'l Park West). Also, most of my plants were put in before the decomposed granite, which has helped some (just some) deter the rabbits (but unfortunately, not the stray bull from the neighboring ranch). Now that the granite, along with some larger rip-rap rock are layed out, I've also noticed more large lizards and even a couple snakes. I think the gila monster who seems to hide under my porch may also be helping the situation. There has definitely been a decrease in populations this past month. We also have established a "critter cafe" near a bird feeder away from the landscaped areas and the few extra treats of salad and vegetable scraps from the kitchen seems to also keep them a bit more satisfied and distracted. Just observations from my experience :-). Good luck! I totally empathise with your frustration! -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 15 16:58:52 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 09:58:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] My illiterate rabbits :-) References: Message-ID: <3B2A3ECC.3F3707B6@AuroraNow.org> > But all this rabbit stuff is going to come to an end on Monday. My neighbor > and I are splitting the cost of walling our properties, so unless the > rabbits can figure out how to unlock the gates or use pole vaults to heave > themselves over the walls, I think I'll finally have a rabbit-free yard. > That's obviously not an option for you with your acreage. No, that's why I've decided to go the opposite route and try to help nature take her course. Besides the piles of rocks near the wash that have attracted a couple snakes, I plan to add a few tall trees for the predator birds (granted, it may be some time before that works) and clear away some of the thick patches of creosote across the drive in the "wild" section of the property where they like to hang out. I just ordered some devil's claw seed and sacred datura which I'm hoping will establish near the wash in that same area and encourage the rabbits a bit farther back on the property (unless they munch down the claws before they're sharp enough to do much good. teehee. I guess we'll see!). I figure if I work a bit to "relocate" the rabbits' (and ground squirrels and gophers) favorite hangouts farther from the house between the coyotes and vultures the populations should stay in check. I also know in a few weeks after the monsoons start, they'll have plenty of annual grasses 'n such to keep them happy. I actually like watching the bunnies hop around the drive and play, and as long as their populations stay in check they don't do that much damage. They've actually helped "prune" the low branches and leaves off a young feather tree which has really encouraged its top growth, so they do have some redeeming qualities. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From popart3@aol.com Fri Jun 15 17:45:12 2001 From: popart3@aol.com (popart3@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 10:45:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151745.f5FHjCq05214@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My bermuda grass lawn (Tiff) has patches which appear to be still dormant. Is this reasonable for this time of the summer with the high heat we've been having, or might it be some other condition. A friend suggested applying gypsum to break down salts in the soil. I have not yet fertilized for the summer as I was waiting for the winter rye to burn off. What would you suggest? From arizsmith@aol.com Fri Jun 15 19:42:10 2001 From: arizsmith@aol.com (arizsmith@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:42:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151942.f5FJg9q24167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My dicondra lawn has become a week patch. Is there a weeder/feeder available that will not kill what's left of the dicondra grass? Between the burr clover, spurge, and the stuff that looks like stunted carrot tops there is not much left. I live in Mesa and irrigate (old citrus grove) I would appreciate any general tips for keeping dicondra healthy. I have had lawns in Phx since 1959 and have good general knowledge of burmuda and St. Augustine. Thank you in advance for any help. From DandGBIV@aol.com Fri Jun 15 19:48:55 2001 From: DandGBIV@aol.com (DandGBIV@aol.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 12:48:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106151948.f5FJmtq25104@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I lve in North Central Florida. I have a peach tree that has small fruit on it. When the fruit gets close to ripe two different things occure. 1. Some of the fruit split down the seam of the fruit. 2. Just as the fruit gets ripe it develops a bruise type spot that grows very rappidly. i.e. covers half the fruit in 24 hours. Looked like the fruit rotted. Within about 2 weeks all the fruit on the tree was affected. Doesw anyone know what this might be. I had this happen two years in a row. This is the third year this tree has had fruit. From myrnamsw@quest.net Sat Jun 16 03:48:53 2001 From: myrnamsw@quest.net (myrnamsw@quest.net) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 20:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106160348.f5G3mrq22076@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This is the first year my almond tree has produced fruit. The fruit is in a green fuzzy like outter coating but I am unsure how to harvest the fruit. Do I remove the fruit from the tree now, then let it dry and crack open for the almond inside or leave it on the tree until the almond pops out of the shell. Some of the pods seem to be drying up on the tree. We deep water the tree about once every two weeks and fertilize the tree when the garden section of the Republic says to fertilize pecan trees. Hope this is right. I have been unable to find any information on growing almond trees in the valley so would appreciate any help I can get. I really would appreciate any help in this matter. Thank you, Myrna From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Jun 16 06:58:32 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 06:58:32 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Almond harvest Message-ID: Here is information from our archives: Below are harvesting recommendations from Dr. Mike Kilby, Fruit, Nut and Vine Specialist for the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. As far as care for the tree, treat them in the same way you would a deciduous fruit tree. See the tips in the Arizona Master Gardener Manual on Fruit tree Care: Good Luck Lucy Bradley >Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:54:18 -0700 >To: Lucy Bradley >From: Mike Kilby >Subject: Re: Harvesting Almonds > >You can harvest almonds as soon as the hulls >start to split and they can still be on the tree. You can harvest at this >stage by knocking the nuts from the tree and separating the nuts from the >hulls. In fact you want to knock the nuts from the tree so they will dry. > >Mike > >From: myrnamsw@quest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 20:48:53 -0700 (MST) > >This is the first year my almond tree has produced fruit. The fruit is in >a green fuzzy like outter coating but I am unsure how to harvest the fruit. > Do I remove the fruit from the tree now, then let it dry and crack open >for the almond inside or leave it on the tree until the almond pops out of >the shell. >Some of the pods seem to be drying up on the tree. We deep water the tree >about once every two weeks and fertilize the tree when the garden section >of the Republic says to fertilize pecan trees. Hope this is right. I have >been unable to find any information on growing almond trees in the valley >so would appreciate any help I can get. >I really would appreciate any help in this matter. Thank you, Myrna > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lmassey@bwn.net Sat Jun 16 16:52:18 2001 From: lmassey@bwn.net (lmassey@bwn.net) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:52:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106161652.f5GGqIq17205@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Two of my neighbors have female shamel ash trees and I have a male. Two years ago the females start producing seeds and, although I may be wrong, all of the seeds are going into my pool. I have read that in order to make seeds you must have a male and female tree. How can I stop the production of seeds? Anything I do has to be done to my tree. Or is my best solution to remove the male tree and plant something else? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Jun 16 17:09:51 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:09:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Software with SW Plant Palette References: <002801c0f40d$e36b8300$5e80d6d1@pavilion> Message-ID: <3B2B92DF.94BBBB8E@qwest.net> --------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not have such software currently, although I am slowly researching its existence as I ponder a career change into landscape design. At last year's AZ horticulture industry trade show, I saw two software products, which will probably be more beneficial to you in FL than for us in the desert SW where the soil is alkaline and the conditions oh-so dry. I'm speaking from the standpoint of the plant material library incorporated in the software. One had provisions for adding your own photos of plant material as I recall. These would be the same two products in the response I gave to a querent last year, [which is no doubt where you found my name] and I really don't have much more to add at this time. I'm just coming back from vacation and so am still wrestling with bushels of snail and e-mail. It would take me awhile to relocate this information. Contact your county's local cooperative extension office for sound advice on selecting materials for your new property and perhaps even hooking up with a local Master Gardener who has interest in landscape design. Linda Guy Master Gardener, Maricopa County, AZ Diane wrote: > Hi Linda,I found your addres on the internet, while looking for > landscape software. I'm hoping you can offer some suggestions. I > just purchased 12 acres in Florida with a small home and barn on the > property. Nothing has been landscaped, although there are numerous > trees. I'm looking for software that I can import a picture of the > property into and try out various looks before I invest money into > plants. Can you recommend any particular software? I appreciate any > suggestions you can make.Sincerely,Diane --------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I do not have such software currently, although I am slowly researching its existence as I ponder a career change into landscape design. At last year's AZ horticulture industry trade show, I saw two software products, which will probably be more beneficial to you in FL than for us in the desert SW where the soil is alkaline and the conditions oh-so dry. I'm speaking from the standpoint of the plant material library incorporated in the software.

One had provisions for adding your own photos of plant material as I recall. These would be the same two products in the response I gave to a querent last year, [which is no doubt where you found my name] and I really don't have much more to add at this time. I'm just coming back from vacation and so am still wrestling with bushels of snail and e-mail. It would take me awhile to relocate this information.

Contact your county's local cooperative extension office for sound advice on selecting materials for your new property and perhaps even hooking up with a local Master Gardener who has interest in landscape design.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener,
Maricopa County, AZ

Diane wrote:

Hi Linda,I found your addres on the internet, while looking for landscape software.  I'm hoping you can offer some suggestions.  I just purchased 12 acres in Florida with a small home and barn on the property.  Nothing has been landscaped, although there are numerous trees.  I'm looking for software that I can import a picture of the property into and try out various looks before I invest money into plants.  Can you recommend any particular software?  I appreciate any suggestions you can make.Sincerely,Diane
--------------CB1C724E447D22368B461D83-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Jun 16 17:15:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:15:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Free Pond Plants References: <10e.48d4b9.28412c84@aol.com> Message-ID: <3B2B943F.2B21ADCA@qwest.net> My hyacinths have not yet bloomed, but then, I purchased them at the end of the summer for additional plant material as the lilies abated. My pond books show a series of lilac flower spikes that appear in the summer. I'm going to wait to see how mine do this year, but the jury is still out in its determination of whether to keep these or not. They look very toasty to me with crisp brown edges, and I'm not enjoyint them nearly as much as I like the looks of those cute little water lettuce. Sorry for the delayed response, been vacationing last three weeks. May I suggest you purchase one of the many pond/water feature books that are available at a reasonable price in softcover? This would be a big help to you in selecting other plants and maintaining the good looks of your new water garden. Linda Guy Master Gardener JAWyse@aol.com wrote: > Dear Linda, > > I would like to thank you for the papyrus, water hyacinth and lettuce you so > generously gave to me. I have made a small water garden outside my back door > and enjoy it more than I ever thought. The plants are all doing well. When > do the water hyacinths bloom? Should I expect blooms this summer is it a > winter blooming plant? As you can see this is my first experience with water > plants. Again thank you so much. Jan Wyse From unlvmedstu@aol.com Sat Jun 16 17:18:48 2001 From: unlvmedstu@aol.com (unlvmedstu@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 10:18:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106161718.f5GHImq19385@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I was wondering if it's okay to put a queen palm in a large pot If so how often would i water and fertalize the palm. What type of fertalizer should i use. I live in las vegas and will plant the palm in direct north facing sun. thank you From daletate@swbell.net Sat Jun 16 19:10:23 2001 From: daletate@swbell.net (Dale Tate) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 13:10:23 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] are squash photoperotic Message-ID: Hello, I live in Lubbock Texas. Will this light that comes on at dark affect the way squash bears? Last year it really bloomed but did not bear. One or two of the tiny squash are beginning to look like they did last year. I haven't allowed enough time to really know if it is going to bear but I thought I might have a switch put a the light if I know that is a problem. Thanks Annie Kenny mailto:anniekenney@door.net From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jun 16 23:25:05 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 16:25:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I know that this is a goofy idea, but I just have to ask. I planted two lantana bushes yesterday. I know that this is the worst time of year to plant anything, but I just couldn't help myself because I finally found the red Patriot Cherry lantanas that I've been looking for for many months. Anyway, I know that mulch prevents water from evaporating, as well as providing some nutrients. But I wonder if I could cover the ground around the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even more evaporating. This plastic would not be under the gravel -- just on top of the gravel with a hole cut out for the plants. It wouldn't be a big piece - just enough to cover the planting area. Then, after the plant has acclimated to having hot dry feet, I could remove the plastic (maybe in a month or so). Is this worth trying or am I inviting some other problem by doing this? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I know that this is = a goofy=20 idea, but I just have to ask.
 
I planted two = lantana bushes=20 yesterday.  I know that this is the worst time of year to plant = anything,=20 but I just couldn't help myself because I finally found the red Patriot = Cherry=20 lantanas that I've been looking for for many months.
 
Anyway, I know that = mulch=20 prevents water from evaporating, as well as providing some = nutrients.  But=20 I wonder if I could cover the ground around the plant with some plastic = (like=20 heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even more evaporating.  This = plastic=20 would not be under the gravel -- just on top of the gravel with a hole = cut out=20 for the plants.  It wouldn't be a big piece - just enough to cover = the=20 planting area.  Then, after the plant has acclimated to having hot = dry=20 feet, I could remove the plastic (maybe in a month or so). =20
 
Is this worth = trying or am I=20 inviting some other problem by doing this?
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01C0F680.E6DD8D60-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:48:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:48:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf with brown patches Message-ID: <28.16e2f38c.285d5870@aol.com> The brown patches in your turf could be caused by pearl scale, dig down at the border of the patch and look for tiny less than 1/8 inch in diameter pearls. The other cause of dead patches in turf this time of year is inadequate water. Insert a screwdriver into the ground after you have watered at the brown patches and the green grass, if the screwdriver goes much deeper in the green grass then your irrigation system is not applying water uniformly. If you are unable to adjust your sprinkler heads for better coverage then you need to apply more water. The early high temperatures have caused problems with turf, I've had them myself and when I spot a problem additional water usually greens up the grass. I would suggest using soil sulfur instead of gypsum, it will accomplish all that gypsum does plus it will help to lower the soil pH which you need to do if you found pearl scale. If you haven't fertilized yet do so right away, your grass needs the nitrogen. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:49:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:49:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen trees Message-ID: <65.15eb4603.285d587f@aol.com> Evergreen trees unlike deciduous trees will lose their leaves throughout the year. The exception to that would be if a tree is severely stressed it might lose all or part of its leaves at one time. Many of the desert adapted trees such as Mesquite or Palo Verde are deciduous or simi deciduous. The simi deciduous will lose their leaves when the temperatures approach freezing. Perhaps someone else can add to this. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 17 00:49:07 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 20:49:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ash trees, stopping seed production Message-ID: Growth regulators are used on olive and several other trees to stop them from fruiting, however I have never seen the shamel ash listed as having been tested. I would suggest that you phone an arborist and ask them the question. They possibly have more current info then I have. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From careyk@netzone.com Sun Jun 17 00:57:21 2001 From: careyk@netzone.com (careyk@netzone.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:57:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170057.f5H0vLq23572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I've done everthing I've heard about to grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., Airation, etc. I think something is wrong with the soil. I could take a sample in to a lab but what do I tell them? I need some prof. help. Please give me the name of a consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost in this so no difference. From carey@netzone.com Sun Jun 17 00:58:23 2001 From: carey@netzone.com (carey@netzone.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 17:58:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170058.f5H0wNq23653@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I've done everthing I've heard about to grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., Airation, etc. I think something is wrong with the soil. I could take a sample in to a lab but what do I tell them? I need some prof. help. Please give me the name of a consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost in this so no difference. From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Jun 17 01:29:16 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 18:29:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings References: Message-ID: <006601c0f6cd$d3eb0fa0$5e50530c@j0r9501> I'd suggest an organic mulch that can "breathe". You can have some pretty bad odors build up under the plastic. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 4:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings > ...I wonder if I could cover the ground around > the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even > more evaporating. ... >... From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jun 17 01:29:40 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 18:29:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings In-Reply-To: <006601c0f6cd$d3eb0fa0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: Egads! That's a great reason to not do this. Thanks. -Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of olin Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 6:29 PM To: Ursula Miller; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings I'd suggest an organic mulch that can "breathe". You can have some pretty bad odors build up under the plastic. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ursula Miller" To: Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2001 4:25 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plastic Covering New Plantings > ...I wonder if I could cover the ground around > the plant with some plastic (like heavy-duty garbage bags) to prevent even > more evaporating. ... >... _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From KLScherting@yahoo.com Sun Jun 17 02:00:43 2001 From: KLScherting@yahoo.com (KLScherting@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:00:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170200.f5H20hq28009@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Why do tomatoes split? Too much water? Too little water? too much or too little sun? Thank you From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Jun 17 02:39:47 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 19:39:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Why Tomatoes Split References: <200106170200.f5H20hq28009@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <007901c0f6d6$cedb80e0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Probably too much water at one time after too long of a period with no water. There are also some varieties that are more prone to plitting. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > Why do tomatoes split? Too much water? Too little water? too much or too little sun? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 17 04:12:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:12:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil testing References: <200106170057.f5H0vLq23572@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B2C2E16.59184B4D@qwest.net> If you choose to go the route of having your soil tested, the following page of our website should be of assistance to you. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/soiltest.htm Is your turf well shaded [ie under trees, etc.]? If so, grass will not grow very easily. Linda Guy, MG careyk@netzone.com wrote: > I've done everthing I've heard about to > grow grass on my front yard. Water, Fert., > Airation, etc. I think something is wrong > with the soil. I could take a sample in to > a lab but what do I tell them? I need some > prof. help. Please give me the name of a > consultant who CAN SOLVE THIS PROBLEM. The > fee is no problem. I've got plenty of sunk cost > in this so no difference. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@U.Arizona.EDU Sun Jun 17 04:29:05 2001 From: jkandell@U.Arizona.EDU (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:29:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Early Girl last whole summer? In-Reply-To: <007901c0f6d6$cedb80e0$5e50530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: My early girl tomatoes are turning brown and yellow, after generating some nice fruit. My celebrity is still green. My other plants are ok too. Is this normal? On a related theme, many of my plants seem to be turning dry and brown and dying: green beans, lima beans, ... Is this the result of underwatering? The 100+ heat? Is it normal this time of year? jk From jbsyankee@earthlink.net Sun Jun 17 04:30:08 2001 From: jbsyankee@earthlink.net (jbsyankee@earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:30:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106170430.f5H4U8q10929@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the best way to get rid of gophers without harming plants? I have an area between the house and sidewalk 3 feet deep with compost and soil amendments. The plants love it, but apparently so do the gophers. I came home this evening (June 16) to find several piles of dirt where the gophers had had burrowed. I'm sure it's gophers because a neighbor discovered one in his flowerbed just last week. Any information you can provide on how to get rid of them and keep them away is appreciated. Thank you. From gay@mmsi.com Sun Jun 17 15:53:58 2001 From: gay@mmsi.com (gay@mmsi.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171553.f5HFrwq29563@Ag.Arizona.Edu> hi, I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years, produces tons of fruit last year, but looks like hell. It has been declining for a year or so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. The soil is very sandy with good drainage (planted well with many amendments), the trunk looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late afternoon sun. Any ideas, is this treatable? much thanks! ken From tma2830@aol.com Sun Jun 17 16:59:48 2001 From: tma2830@aol.com (tma2830@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:59:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171659.f5HGxmq04129@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I was wondering if you could answer two questions for me: 1) Can you recommend a reasoably priced,reliable landscaper who will blow out my yard(all rock),trim bushes and weed for me, every other week. I also need some palm trees cleaned up as well. 2) Is there a way to keep wasps and hornets away from a swimming pool? I'd appreciate a response as soon as possible. Thank you, Dan From Landlightdesign@aol.com Sun Jun 17 17:01:34 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 13:01:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #129 - 16 msgs Message-ID: <38.17adb432.285e3c6e@aol.com> --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Diane Sierra Home has a program called complete Landdesigner 3D that will import a photo then allow you to add plants from library. The library is very limited and the results less then realistic. however the cost is low ($75.00) and you can also produce a 2D map of the landscape. There are other types of CAD programs like Design Imaging Group, Designware/Designware at night/Planscape. www.designimaginggroup.com This program costs much more, but it does a lot more with a much larger library, that includes desert plants like paloverde, mesquite, saguaro, teddy bear cholla, agave, ect. You can import and create your own photo library of plants, lights, whatever you need. This requires good photographic skills and a photo editing program. Numerous tricks are used to make a signal plant in the library look like more then one plant type. You might want to e-mail DIG and ask them for a name in your area or search the web under photo, simulations, landscape and find a co. that you can e-mail scanned or digital photo to along with your notes on plant location. * The simulations are useful at provoking design discussions, however I have yet to see any simulation that was as good as a good landscape architects minds eye view elevation sketch of a finished idea. I use the programs daily for communication between crews, supply, billing, home owners, boards, architects. Defining turf area, lighting locations, sleeve locations, pavers, tree locations all sorts of landscape problems/solutions that are hard to explain with pen or over the phone. MG Paul --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Diane
Sierra Home has a program called complete Landdesigner 3D that will import a
photo then allow you to add plants from library. The library is very limited
and the results less then realistic. however the cost is low ($75.00) and you
can also produce a 2D map of the landscape.
There are other types of CAD programs like Design Imaging Group,
Designware/Designware at night/Planscape. www.designimaginggroup.com
This program costs much more, but it does a lot more with a much larger
library, that includes desert plants like paloverde, mesquite, saguaro, teddy
bear cholla, agave, ect. You can import and create your own photo library of
plants, lights, whatever you need. This requires good photographic skills and
a photo editing program. Numerous tricks are used to make a signal plant in
the library look like more then one plant type. You might want to e-mail DIG
and ask them for a name in your area or search the web under photo,
simulations, landscape and find a co. that you can e-mail scanned or digital
photo to along with your notes on plant location.
* The simulations are useful at provoking design discussions, however I have
yet to see any simulation that was as good as a good landscape architects
minds eye view elevation sketch of a finished idea. I use the programs daily
for communication between crews, supply, billing, home owners, boards,
architects. Defining turf area, lighting locations, sleeve locations, pavers,
tree locations all sorts of landscape problems/solutions that are hard to
explain with pen or over the phone.

MG Paul --part1_38.17adb432.285e3c6e_boundary-- From devfore@aol.com Sun Jun 17 17:24:22 2001 From: devfore@aol.com (devfore@aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 10:24:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171724.f5HHOLq06152@Ag.Arizona.Edu> need feedback on :pruning pineapple palm:tree is about 7 yrs old,and about 10 ft. tall. i have been cutting off lower branches only(as they come in contact with the ground) thank you From pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net Sun Jun 17 19:06:03 2001 From: pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net (pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:06:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106171906.f5HJ63q13773@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often and for how long each time should I have my sprinklers set to water the lawn? Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:18:19 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:18:19 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Irrigation Message-ID: First, you need to know how much water your sprinklers put out in a given time. Set out several small cans (tuna fish, cat food) on your lawn and run your sprinklers a known amount of time such as 15 minutes. Measure the amount of water in each one, then average the amount of water in all the cans. This will tell you how many inches of water are being applied to your lawn. Note: if the amount in the cans is very different from one location to another, you will want to check for malfunctioning heads or add more heads if necessary. The following information is from a previous posting by Sue Bass: "Watering about once every three days is best for most lawns.Once you have done the measuring of the water with cans, you know the rate of delivery from your sprinkers. Even in the hot summer months most lawns do not need to be watered every day. Do you take a daily newspaper? If so, there is a Lawn-Watering guide that appears, usually in the weather section (at least it does in the Republic). It will tell you each day how much water needs to be applied to your lawn if it was last watered three days ago. For instance, in yesterday's paper it read, .55 inches is needed for Bermuda Grass if last watered 3 days ago. The lawn's water requirements vary throughout the year due to temperature, sunlight, and wind (just a few of the factors). If you do not take a daily newspaper, you can get the above information by calling 1-800-537-3578 which gives a recorded message of the daily water requirement. Once you know your rate of delivery and the water requirement in inches, you can use the handy conversion chart found at: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG. It will give you the amount of time you need to water in minutes." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: pdgoldbeck@az.rmci.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 12:06:03 -0700 (MST) > >How often and for how long each time should >I have my sprinklers set to water the lawn? >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lizmiles@home.com Sun Jun 17 21:28:41 2001 From: lizmiles@home.com (Liz Miles) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:28:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Can I plant now??? Message-ID: <3B2D2109.485EEA53@home.com> I have been waiting for months to have the front yardof my recently remodeled Scottsdale home landscaped. Everyone I talked to was booked throughout April and May. Now that I am a week away from having someone available, I read here that this is the worst time of year to plant anyhting. How dumb is it to spend several thousand dollars on plants and labor this time of year? And is it a particular size plant (1 gal vs 10-15 gal for example) that is most vulnerable now? Or a particular kind of plant (succulent vs regular) that is more likely to die? I have a new irrigation system, which will be tailored to each new plant as it is planted. My plan calls for for desert adapted plants, but not xeriscape. The yard I am landscaping is north facing. Any help will be much appreciated. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:34:23 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:34:23 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms, pruning Message-ID: I'm not familiar with the pineapple palm specifically, but your description sounds like good pruning practice. See John Begeman's column on pruning palms at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/articles/3.1.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: devfore@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 10:24:22 -0700 (MST) > >need feedback on :pruning pineapple palm:tree is about 7 yrs old,and about >10 ft. tall. i have been cutting off lower branches only(as they come in >contact with the ground) thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:43:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:43:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wasps in swimming pools Message-ID: Dan, 1) Best idea is to get recommendations from neighbors and friends. I also check with the Better Business Bureau (best to get information on three firms you might be interested in) and check with the Registrar of Contractors. If you need pruning, check if the person is a certified arborist. Others may have better ideas - this is my approach. 2) One of our Master Gardeners just wrote an article about her experiences with wasps. She uses natural wasp traps in her yard to control them around her pool. I can send a copy of the article if you are interested. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tma2830@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 09:59:48 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, I was wondering if you could answer two questions for me: > >1) Can you recommend a reasoably priced,reliable landscaper who will blow >out my yard(all rock),trim bushes and weed for me, every other week. I also >need some palm trees cleaned up as well. > >2) Is there a way to keep wasps and hornets away from a swimming pool? > >I'd appreciate a response as soon as possible. > >Thank you, >Dan > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 21:55:13 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 21:55:13 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, looks unhealthy Message-ID: Ken, We have been seeing many citrus problems similar to yours in the past few weeks at the Pima County Office. These seem to be related to watering and in most cases we recommend checking how deeply water is penetrating. If it isn't going down three feet, increase the duration. Since your soil is sandy, you may need to increase the frequency of irrigations rather than the duration. Also be certain to check that the trunk area is not in contact with soil. Dig around the trunk gently and you should see the tree's "crown" (where trunk becomes root) just below the soil line. If you have to dig down a few inches to find lateral roots, remove soil to expose the trunk to air. If you do mulch under your tree, be careful that mulch is kept several inches away from the trunk. How are you irrigating? Do you use drip or basin? What has changed from last year to this? Things like pruning, removing a nearby tree, construction, etc. Have you extended the watering area as the tree grows? That may also give us a clue about what is happening. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gay@mmsi.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 08:53:58 -0700 (MST) > >hi, > >I have a Tangelo that has been planted for about 5 years, produces tons of >fruit last year, but looks like hell. It has been declining for a year or >so, leaves yellowing, spotted and currently falling off. The soil is very >sandy with good drainage (planted well with many amendments), the trunk >looks fine and the tree is protected from the wind and late afternoon sun. > >Any ideas, is this treatable? > >much thanks! >ken > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 22:06:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 22:06:57 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gophers Message-ID: You will probably need to dig into the gopher tunnels and set traps to kill them. The Master Gardener Manual has a chapter on vertebrate pests. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pests/intro.html#vertebrate It includes information about trapping and other methods of control. The theme of the chapter is: PREVENTION IS LONG TERM -- CONTROL IS SHORT TERM find out ways to prevent gophers if possible. Good Luck! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jbsyankee@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 21:30:08 -0700 (MST) > >What is the best way to get rid of gophers without harming plants? I have >an area between the house and sidewalk 3 feet deep with compost and soil >amendments. The plants love it, but apparently so do the gophers. I came >home this evening (June 16) to find several piles of dirt where the gophers >had had burrowed. I'm sure it's gophers because a neighbor discovered one >in his flowerbed just last week. > >Any information you can provide on how to get rid of them and keep them >away is appreciated. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Jun 17 22:43:09 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 15:43:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning and Care of Palms References: <200106171724.f5HHOLq06152@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B2D327D.1B6DAFE0@qwest.net> You can find additional information on palm care, including pruning in the University of Arizona's publication entitled Arizona Landscape Palms. This publication can be viewed online by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener devfore@aol.com wrote: > need feedb