From c.ornucopia.wine@home.com Fri Jun 1 15:41:31 2001 From: c.ornucopia.wine@home.com (c.ornucopia.wine@home.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 08:41:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106011541.f51FfVB16188@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often should catus plants such as agave be watered? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:02 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapefruit , 2 years, not bearing fruit Message-ID: <74.b1ed951.284919fe@aol.com> Citrus typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. What you are seeing is the tree sheding the fruit that it is not ready to bear. Your irrigation interval is too long for a two year old tree in summer. Check out this site for info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning trees and shrubs Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on pruning available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Soil sulfur Message-ID: <61.e838751.28491a04@aol.com> Dispersol is the brand name for soil sulfur. One variety of Dispersol contains iron and manganese which I opt to use because of these micro nutrients. I've purchased Dispersol at Gardeners World. Soil su;lfur is slow acting taking several months before one sees any change. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palms with light colored fronds Message-ID: It often takes several months to see a change in color of palm fronds after applying corrective nutrients. Check out these sites for palm care and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 1 16:17:09 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:17:09 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #118 - 19 msgs Message-ID: <36.16c68f70.28491a05@aol.com> Suzanne, Fish emulsion and Osmacote are both excellent choices, I use them both. I just visited with Master Gardener Jack Blake today at a seminar and he told me that he is teaching horticultural clases at home depot. Don't miss his class when he comes to your store, he will have an abundance of correct info. good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dgarnett@as.arizona.edu Fri Jun 1 18:05:59 2001 From: dgarnett@as.arizona.edu (Don Garnett) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 11:05:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: leaf ID Message-ID: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> >From the photo the leaf looks most like that of a white mulberry, Morus alba. A description and photo can be found at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/poison/Morusal.htm (the North Carolina poisonous plant site, of all things!) Mulberries would certainly make themselves known by shedding lots of purple berries, if given a chance. Seems to me though, that it may not have a chance to do so if severely cut back often, and the result may be more shrublike than tree-like. Of course, as Olin says you could ask your neighbor. :) Don Garnett From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Jun 1 21:37:11 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer References: <200106011805.LAA04767@ocotillo.as.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B180B07.623F40BB@AuroraNow.org> Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite route there? Thanks. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From gingerb2l@netscape.net Fri Jun 1 21:52:45 2001 From: gingerb2l@netscape.net (gingerb2l@netscape.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 14:52:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we are moving from upstate new york will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Jun 2 02:02:12 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 19:02:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lilacs, Bulbs, Raspberries References: <200106012152.f51LqjB20853@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <004e01c0eb08$1ac8b200$4552530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > we are moving from upstate new york > will lilacs, bulbs, raspberries grow in the area Assuming you refer to the low desert in the greater Phoenix AZ area, welcome to The Valley of the Sun. Many, but not all, bulbs will do okay. Usually planted October-November. Some require special procedures like stratification, often by cooling in a refrigerator for a certain length of time and at a certain time of the year. Raspberries are not adapted. Some varieties of blackberries do okay. I am not aware of anybody growing French lilacs. Persian lilacs will grow and bloom but blossoms are small. If you need specifics, please repost. There are so many beautiful and interesting plants that one can grow successfully here that can not be grown elsewhere. I suggest you familiarize yourself with our plants and growing conditions by perusing the home page and links at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/ The monthly Timely Tips links should be helpful. Olin From mcp5457@aol.com Sat Jun 2 05:01:11 2001 From: mcp5457@aol.com (mcp5457@aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. Thanks, Cira Passley From Auslender@aol.com Sat Jun 2 14:41:06 2001 From: Auslender@aol.com (Auslender@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:41:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Message-ID: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender From umiller@azdps.com Sat Jun 2 15:37:06 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 08:37:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Watering and Feeding In-Reply-To: <57.16fccf9f.284a5502@aol.com> Message-ID: Hi, Leonard - I have bougainvillea all over the place - in pots on the patio, in the yard, etc., so I have some experience with them. Initially, when they're young, they need more water, but after they're established they don't need daily watering. I water the established ones in pots on my patio about every three days now that it's so hot or earlier if I detect wilting. But this also depends on the type of pot (clay pottery pots lose lots of moisture through the pot so they may need more frequent watering) and the size of the pot. The bigger, the more water it holds and the less frequently it needs watering. Yours is a large pot, so I would try watering it like I do - once every three days and see how it goes. If they wilt - then do it every two days. After the hot season, you can reduce the watering. In fact, during the cooler parts of the year, I water them once a week or so and that seems to be fine (though right now it's hard for me to remember that we DO have cool days). I occasionally feed my patio ones with some regular water-soluble food, but I don't do it very often. They don't seem to need a lot of food, but since they're in pots and the watering washes away nutrients, I do feed them occasionally. I would NOT use any bloom booster type products. The established ones in the ground rarely get any water or anything else. I took them off the dripper system and they grow like crazy. It seems like the more neglect, the more bracts (flowers). I hope this helps. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Auslender@aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:41 AM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bouganvilla Hello, I'm trying to find out information on the care of Bougainvilla. It grows really well in Los Angeles, and I just acquired a new plant in a large pot. I was instructed to water it daily and use Miracle-Gro's Bloom Booster. But I'm not sure that it needs that much water, and I hear it does well in arid areas. So what's the best for me? Best regards, Leonard Auslender _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Jun 2 17:09:01 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:09:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Poolside Landscapes References: <200106020501.f5251BB07004@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B191DAD.5E42E53A@qwest.net> Cira: You can view University of AZ publication AZ1058, entitled Plants for Poolside Landscapes on-line by using the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1058.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener mcp5457@aol.com wrote: > could you please write and send some information on what types of plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate it. > Thanks, > Cira Passley > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chebert621@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:36:59 2001 From: chebert621@aol.com (chebert621@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 15:36:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106022236.f52MaxB19399@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My mesquite tree has suddenly taken a dive-literally. Two of the main branches(each about 10 inches in diameter)have split and are now touching the ground. A couple of other areas appear to have splitting bark and are oozing.Can this tree be saved? It is abut 14 years old, 20-30 feet high, with an equalspread. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Jun 2 22:58:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 18:58:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: <83.b6e52d5.284ac983@aol.com> Sherryl The Roundup will kill nearly anything that is actively growing and you can use a preemergent weed killer such as Surflan or Weed and Grass Preventer to prevent the seeds from sprouting. You may have a problem finding Surflan since their manufacturing plant burned recently, but nurseries should know of a substitute. I would suggest that you do not consider any herbicide that is classed as a soil sterilent. Soil sterilents can stay in the soil for years and can migrate away from the area where applied and kill any plant roots that it contacts. I also recommend against using plastic under the granite. Weeds may grow through the plastic and others will grow on top of the plastic. The worst part is that moisture collects under the plastic, any plant roots that are nearby will come to the surface for the water, when the hot weather arrives the roots can cook. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Adriennetb@aol.com Sun Jun 3 00:09:46 2001 From: Adriennetb@aol.com (Adriennetb@aol.com) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 17:09:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106030009.f5309kB26024@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is the program "Farm and Home" still on? If so what channel and what time? I really enjoyed it and miss it. Thank you. From Krulich@aol.com Sun Jun 3 22:37:42 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:37:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: Hello, I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will not last through this year's monsoon season. The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of right away! Thanks, Tom From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 01:09:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:09:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! Message-ID: <9c.ee8f208.284c39c2@aol.com> Tom , I would suggest that you have an arborist look at your mulberry tree and advise you as to a course of action. With the size of the tree and its rotted condition it could become a hazzard if it is not already. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From prschellhase@home.com Mon Jun 4 18:35:07 2001 From: prschellhase@home.com (prschellhase@home.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041835.f54IZ7B04312@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an 8 year old, yellow hybiscus plant. Each morning I pick off about 1 to 2 dozen yellow leaves. Within 24 hours I have another 1 to 2 dozen leaves, some have completely turned from dark green to bright yellow. I deep water it every couple of days and and give it 10-30-10 fert once every 6 weeks. Is this normal? Is it a pest, too much water, not enough water, the wrong ph or something else? I have had this problem for years. It detracts from the enjoyment of the plant. Please help! From lsveith@swlink.net Mon Jun 4 19:17:29 2001 From: lsveith@swlink.net (lsveith@swlink.net) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:17:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041917.f54JHTB12765@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When is the best time to trim Oleander so they will continue blooming. In advance, thanks From DWoodw1016@aol.com Mon Jun 4 19:35:36 2001 From: DWoodw1016@aol.com (DWoodw1016@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:35:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106041935.f54JZaB15529@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a California Pepper tree and noticed that the bark was coming off the branches. What could cause this to happen? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper tree losing bark Message-ID: <97.16616a2b.284d6ed1@aol.com> The California Pepper Tree grown here in the low desert is susceptable to a number of problems such as Texas Root Rot, root knot nematodes, and heart rot. It is very important that one keep the tree from being drought stressed by proper irrigation. A drought stressed tree becomes a target for many problems. Check out this website for info on proper irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:08:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:08:00 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders, pruning Message-ID: <48.169722e7.284d6ed0@aol.com> If you prune your oleanders in the winter after they stop bloming, they will then be ready to bloom again when the weather warms. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Jun 4 23:07:59 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 19:07:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hibiscus with yellow leaves Message-ID: Overwatering will cause thhe leaves to yellow on most plants. If you deep watered once a week your hibiscus would be much happier. Check out this site on landscape irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From tgeddes135@aol.com Tue Jun 5 00:51:46 2001 From: tgeddes135@aol.com (tgeddes135@aol.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050051.f550pWB04729@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What do I do with my Iris bed now that they have finished blooming. Do I leave the bulbs in the ground or do I dig them up? Thank you From emily@primeshot.com Tue Jun 5 01:01:39 2001 From: emily@primeshot.com (emily@primeshot.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 18:01:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? From tsmithra@ionet.net Tue Jun 5 16:29:01 2001 From: tsmithra@ionet.net (tsmithra@ionet.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 09:29:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051629.f55GT1h21820@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have a mature joshua tree with one 30+ foot tall arm, that appears dry and brittle in the middle 10' of it. it seems healthy at the top and bottom of the arm. we're concerned that it will fall on the neighbors house if we don't do something about it. who might we contact regarding assesment, removal of the arm, support of the arm, etc. we just need a little good advice thanks From jasbo@home.com Tue Jun 5 18:37:08 2001 From: jasbo@home.com (jasbo@home.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 11:37:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051837.f55Ib8h13718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am looking for a suggestion for a tree to plant in my front yard. It has limited space and afternoon sun. I would prefer one that did not drop its leaves, and do not want a palm tree. A Purple Plum and a Swanhill Olive tree were both mentioned as possibilities. Do you have any thoughts on these trees or any other suggestions. Thank you so much. From bkrich@qwest.net Tue Jun 5 19:37:55 2001 From: bkrich@qwest.net (bkrich@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 12:37:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106051937.f55Jbth23611@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I protect the fruit on my plum tree from being eaten by birds just as it is becoming ripe? From menuccibob@qwest.net Wed Jun 6 01:28:28 2001 From: menuccibob@qwest.net (menuccibob@qwest.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 18:28:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060128.f561SSh16886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I consulted a Horticulturist on planting 2 - 3' Pecan trees that I ordered from Georgia. She was wonderful, and both trees are in the ground and seem to be doing fine, but I have two questions and I haven't been able to contact her. Some background: I put the bare root trees in a bucket of water with a Root Stimulator while I dug 4' holes 3' in diameter. (I know, it was rough!) I put Gypsum on the bottom and filled the holes with water and let it drain. Then I backfilled, while mixing in some potting soil, (Less than 50%) and deep watered with "Triple Phosphate". Here is question #1: How often do I water them in this heat? I've been doing it about once a week, and I believe they are now established, but don't have a lot of growth (a few leaves on the trunk in several places). #2 Can, or should I use "Triple Phosphate" to promote growth and how often? If not, what should I use? Thanks in advance! Bob Menucci From PoetEvan@aol.com Wed Jun 6 03:49:43 2001 From: PoetEvan@aol.com (PoetEvan@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 20:49:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060349.f563nhh02101@Ag.Arizona.Edu> There is printer ink on paper that is finely shredded at work. I'd like to compost it with grass clippings and other matter. How much of a problem is the ink as I strive towards an organic approach to gardening? From skye4141@aol.com Wed Jun 6 06:10:43 2001 From: skye4141@aol.com (skye4141@aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 23:10:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106060610.f566Ahh15114@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Perris, California. I have about 40 Oleander bushes and about 3/4 of them are dying. There is supposedly a disease going around. My next door neighbors are not dying, but the one two doors up have dying oleanders also. The neighborhood nursury says nothing can be done. I believe something can be done but what? Can you help me? We are elderly and it would be a problem removing them and replacing with something else. From rp@rpryan.com Wed Jun 6 14:11:26 2001 From: rp@rpryan.com (rp@rpryan.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:11:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. From bjsam1@msn.com Wed Jun 6 14:58:19 2001 From: bjsam1@msn.com (bjsam1@msn.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 07:58:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061458.f56EwJh28288@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello! I live in a unique area of Phoenix that contains nearly 300 date palms orginally planted in the 1930s. The neighbors in this area would like to know the best time to trim these trees to remove all sprouting dates since the dates are no longer harvested. It seems to me that if the trees are trimmed during the first 2 weeks in May, all the dates get removed and there is no problem throughout the year with excess dates dropping to the ground. Do you have any information on this subject? Sincerely, Barbra J. Samuels From cwdl@tri.com Wed Jun 6 15:21:14 2001 From: cwdl@tri.com (cwdl@tri.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:21:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061521.f56FLEh01977@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i,m looking for something that will grow side of hill very rocky low watering, very hot, and the small animals won't eat. year around, with some color..any help, thank you donna glisson From russell9009@aol.com Wed Jun 6 15:37:30 2001 From: russell9009@aol.com (russell9009@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:37:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061537.f56FbUh05750@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it possible to grow hostas in Phoenix, AZ? If so how do I go about it? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 16:40:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:40:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061411.f56EBQh23169@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E5D02.5AA7CEB8@AuroraNow.org> rp@rpryan.com wrote: > > This time of year how long and how many days per week should your drip system run? Established plants vs established trees? Thank you in advance. Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good Luck! -- Sherryl From jstover@gilland.com Wed Jun 6 17:33:44 2001 From: jstover@gilland.com (jstover@gilland.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:33:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> While visiting your area recently, we discovered a prolific, open bush that we would like to identify. This plant had green slender leaves, and its flower stalks were topped with 4-8 inch spikes of small blossoms in a startling red-orange color. Its height was usually around 3-4 feet, and it was used extensively in shopping center and freeway landscaping. Could you provide the horticultural name for the plant, and/or its growing characteristics? From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Jun 6 19:20:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 12:20:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106061733.f56HXgh27640@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1E827F.D5339ABC@AuroraNow.org> You were looking at a Red Bird of Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima/poinciana pulcherrima). Tropical deciduous shrub. Most visitors to our low deserts are struck by this beauty (it's not a native, but thrives here with little care). Unfortunately, it couldn't handle cold winters, although it reportedly can rebound from freezing back in not-too-harsh climates. The seeds and seed pods are poisonous. There is also a taller, more tree-like yellow variety called Mexican (c. mexicana) or Yellow Bird of Paradise (c. gilliesii/poinciana gilliesii). In warm climates, it is a quick, prolific grower and can reach 10 feet. Some people cut them back in winter to keep them at the 3-4' height you saw. They can remain evergreen in mild winters (here in Tucson, they were mostly burgundy leaved to decidous this past winter, but the two winters previous they stayed mostly green). They bloom all during the warm season, need very little water and full sun. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From slicknjo@aol.com Wed Jun 6 19:59:35 2001 From: slicknjo@aol.com (slicknjo@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 12:59:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106061959.f56JxZh23776@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our 11 yrs old Arizona Sweet Orange tree is not bearing well. The tree looks great, we get lots of blossums. The fruit is small and the last couple of years we only get about a dozen oranges. This year we noticed the new fruit is turning very dark brown, getting very hard and then falling off the tree. Again, it looks like we will only have a few oranges. We feel we are giving the tree enough water and we fertilize are recommended. Any ideas? Thank you. From southpawaz@home.com Wed Jun 6 22:05:06 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 15:05:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106050101.f5511dB06041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1EA912.96EEE25B@home.com> emily@primeshot.com wrote: > > Can you grow avacados and mangos in Phoenix? If so, what are the recommended tree species? Emily, There is information on growing both of these in Phoenix at the links below: http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Anacardiaceae/Mangifera_indica.html http://www.desert-tropicals.com/Plants/Lauraceae/Persea_americana.html -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Wed Jun 6 23:14:54 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:14:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleanders dying Message-ID: I would suggest that you contact the Cooperative Extension in the county in which you live, they will be listed under county government i n your phone book. If as your nursery says there is a disease that is killing the oleanders the Cooperative Extension will know about it and if there is a cure they should have an answer. Fortunately here in southern Arizona we have not had a problem with oleanders dying. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 7 00:00:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:00:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pecan tree care Message-ID: Bob, You didn't say where you live or when you planted the pecan tree. If planted later than February then the chances of survival are marginal if you live in the low desert. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html A bulletin on pecan care put out by the Maricopa Cooperative Extension states that the pecan tree requires the elements nitrogen and zinc which should only be applied after the tree is one year old. If you live in Maricopa county our soils typically have enough phosphorus to supply the need of pecans. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From scsvrs@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 01:01:51 2001 From: scsvrs@hotmail.com (scsvrs@hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 18:01:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:20:28 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:20:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Potted Gardenia In-Reply-To: <200106070101.f5711ph11913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Valerie - Gardenias are tough plants to grow out here. They don't like sudden temperature changes and sudden humidity can cause them to act up, too. They also don't like direct sun so having them in the shade is good, though they also like some sun. They also need periodic feedings of Miracid or a similar product. I have two in the ground that did well while they were getting dappled light from a palm tree. But now that the palm is tall they get full sun instead of the dappled shade in the hot afternoon and they've also started dropping their buds. They need constant care. You can look at other discussions on gardenias if you go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in gardenias to search on that word. Good luck. They're nice plants but require an awful lot of pampering and sometimes no matter what you do, they bite the dust anyway. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of scsvrs@hotmail.com Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 6:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a potted gardenia that I am very fond of. I have had it for two months and it has flowered once about a month ago. I have it in the shade and sitting on rocks in a dish to make humidity. It drops its buds, the leaves turn yellow and in general is not healthy looking. What can I do to insure more blooms? how often will it flower under the right situation? thankyou. valerie _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 03:23:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 20:23:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Lantana, Etc In-Reply-To: <200106062314.f56NEsh27535@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in lantana pruning and hit search and you'll see other discussions regarding pruning of lantanas. You can do the same for oleander and bougainvillea or anything else that suits your fancy. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 4:15 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page lOOKING FOR TIPS ON WHEN TO PRUNE PLANTS--LANTENA, OLY ANDERS, AND BOGANVILLA _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 04:56:33 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 21:56:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Urgent - Mulberry tree about to split in half! References: Message-ID: <3B1F0981.45F279A3@qwest.net> Tom: I didn't see that a response had been posted to your question. This is something that I would suggest calling a professional arborist for. If you do not know of one in your area, you can go to the following link to locate a certified arborist by zip code http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arbsearch.html Sue Bass Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > Hello, > > I live in Tucson and I have a huge mulberry tree (and I mean HUGE) that has a > crack down the center on both sides of the trunk. The trunk is also hollow > inside. My problem is the tree is going to split in half if I don't do > something right away. During the winds today I could see the crack opening > and closing. I think I need to wrap some really heavy duty chain around and > around the branches to hold the tree together because I am positive it will > not last through this year's monsoon season. > > The trunk is about 3' in diameter but less than 3' high. It has about a 55' > span and is about 40' tall. These aren't exaggerations. This really is a > massive tree. I don't even know if chains would support a tree that large. > > Does anyone have any ideas what I could do? Should a job like this be left > to a professional arborist, and would they even do something like that? > Please respond as soon as possible because I need to have this taken care of > right away! > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 05:04:29 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 22:04:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shade Trees References: <200105042312.f44NCMW17168@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1F0B5D.A18CABBF@qwest.net> I didn't see that you had received a response to your question regarding shade trees. The following link will take you to our web page, publications section where you will find a listing of publications on Ornamentals. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Ornamentals There is a publication available entitled Trees for Maricopa County. Publication #MC13. The top of the page will give you instructions on how to order a copy or you may find a copy in a binder at your local library branch. The binder is 635 General Reference. The librarian can help you find it. The title is Horticulture Publications. You can then make a photo copy of the publication. Sue Bass Master Gardener accordino@qwest.net wrote: > Can you recommend a good shade tree for > my Northwest Phoenix yard? It will be on the > south side of the > house (lots of sun in the summer). Two fruit > trees in this area, an apricot and a plum, > have both died after 3 years. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From smcobain@aol.com Thu Jun 7 15:57:32 2001 From: smcobain@aol.com (smcobain@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 08:57:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071557.f57FvWh09365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have recently moved to Mesa from Washington State and are slowly learning about gardening in the Southwest. Question...some of my young plants and a small orange tree seem to be in some distress because of some "webby" stuff clustered on the foliage. Any help would sure be appreciated. Thanks! Stephanie Cobain From maas61@hotmail.com Thu Jun 7 19:42:27 2001 From: maas61@hotmail.com (maas61@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 12:42:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HOW OFTEN SHOULD ONE WATER A LANTANA BUSH From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Jun 7 20:01:01 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 13:01:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering lantana References: <200106071942.f57JgRh02036@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1FDD7D.817DBD5B@AuroraNow.org> Irrigation info can be found at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Lantana require very little watering once established. I'm watering my young gallon size March-planted lantanas once a week right now and even that may be a little too often but they're on the same soaker hose as other plants that seem to want to be watered every week right now. Deep, infrequent water is best. If you water or fertilize too much, you'll get far fewer blooms. I haven't fed mine at all, actually. Hope that helps. -- Sherryl Stalinski (not a master gardener) From michelemc@qwest.net Thu Jun 7 20:23:27 2001 From: michelemc@qwest.net (michelemc@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:23:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072023.f57KNRh08984@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what is best to feed palm trees. I'm told Queen Palms actually need some type of feed that can be "poured" into center stalk of tree. HELP! I do not know if these like acid or alkalin type. thanks, Michele Clark From phg@citieswestpub.com Thu Jun 7 20:50:24 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 13:50:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 7 21:31:20 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 14:31:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] White Paint on Citrus Trees In-Reply-To: <200106072050.f57KoOh13591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: The paint prevents the trunk from being burned if it's exposed during the summer. Latex white paint will do the trick and not harm the tree. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of phg@citieswestpub.com Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2001 1:50 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page For decades people have been painting the trunks of their citrus with white paint to prevent sunburn. Isn't this bad for the tree? If not, is there a particular type of paint to use? To avoid? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:02:12 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:02:12 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pool plantings Message-ID: Here are a few ideas for planting around a pool: Fatsia japonica (Japanese aralia) Juniperus sabina 'tamariscifolia' (Tam juniper) Pittosporum tobira (Japanese mock orange) Raphiolepis indica (India hawthorn) Viburnum japonica (Japanese viburnum) many of the palms Cycas revulata (Sago palm) Camellia japonica (Japanese camillia) Basically, look for plants that don't produce much litter, don't have invasive roots, and are not thorny. Once you have a list of plants you like, check to make sure they will thrive in the sun exposure and microclimate where you plant to place them. Recently, I've seen some very attactive designs with open areas around the pool and a native, natural vegetation around the area -- including cacti, agave, etc. -- very nice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mcp5457@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 22:01:11 -0700 (MST) > >could you please write and send some information on what types of >plants/trees are good to plant around the pool, I would really appreciate >it. >Thanks, >Cira Passley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 00:11:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 00:11:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer Message-ID: Sherryl, Don't no if anyone else responded to your question. I would recommend Roundup as weeds appear. More importantly, apply a pre-emergent twice a year to keep weed seeds from sprouting and growing. Pre-emergents don't affect growing vegetation but they do keep all seeds for sprouting and growing (so don't plant them where you want to grow wildflowers from seed or where you want to harvest desirable volunteers like penstemon for replanting.) Birds, especially doves, do a great job of removing seeds. Of course, they usually go for a newly seeded vegetable patch or lawn area :-) I don't think plastic works. It soon works its way to the surface and then breaks down in the sun and shreds in the wind, looking very unsightly, in my experience. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Don Garnett , arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] best weed killer >Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2001 14:37:11 -0700 > >Can anyone tell me what kind of weed killer would be best for areas >where I want to kill all existing vegetation and prevent new weeds? >We're building a porch and want to eliminate weeds under it, plus I'm >creating a narrow path along the north side of the house that gets just >damp & cool enough in the winter that I had a huge crop of 4 foot >dandelions (or some low desert variation thereof). I killed the >dandelions (?) with Round Up, but is there anything I can use to keep >the area clear? Or am I better off going the plastic/decomposed granite >route there? > >Thanks. > > >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. >Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange tree with few oranges Message-ID: It is well known that citrus trees do have good and bad fruit bearing years. Why not check out this website to make sure that you are giving the orange tree adequate water, the fruit crop depends on it. www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:40:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 23:40:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Shrubs Message-ID: <60.f70c495.2851a32b@aol.com> Lantana and Bougainvillea can be pruned nearly anytime except late fall or winter, they are both frost tender and since pruning spurs new growth which frost burns easily. I prefer to prune oleanders in the winter when they are not blooming so that when spring comes they will soon be ready to bloom. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From PatBern7@aol.com Fri Jun 8 03:46:46 2001 From: PatBern7@aol.com (PatBern7@aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2001 20:46:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106080346.f583kkh09741@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our tangelo and grapefruit trees are 3-1/2 yrs. old and very healthy looking, but are not producing much fruit. Our grapefruit tree had 5 grapefruits and our tangelo tree had 7 tangelos this past growing season. We have watered them deeply, applied fertilizer, but to date we hardly see any fruit on the trees. My neighbors on either side of us have trees that are loaded with fruit, even though their trees are approx. the same age as ours. What seems to be the problem? Is there some type of fertilizer that promotes more fruit? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:42:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:42:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus trees not bearing fruit Message-ID: <92.15c6882b.2851b199@aol.com> Subj: Citrus trees not bearing fruit Date: 06/07/2001 9:38:05 PM US Mountain Standard Time From: RodMcQ6 To: PAT BERN 7 Citrus trees typically do not bear much fruit until they are at least four years old. Have some patience, keep up the deep watering and fertilization as recommended and perhaps this will be the year when you will have a good crop of fruit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Jun 8 04:45:41 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 00:45:41 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm tree care Message-ID: <15.15736b52.2851b275@aol.com> Michelle, The food that you refer to being poured into the heart of Queen Palms is Bordeau, a fungicide which many in the industry have recommended to cure a fungus called bud rot. However bud rot according to the University of Arizona plant pathology department has been practically non existant, they have 0nly two cases of bud rot in Queen Palms reported in over 50 years. The fertilizer to be used on palms is one that is specifically recommended for palms. Most palms tolerate alkaline soils but would probably do better in neutral or slightly acid soils.. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From gusnaz@worldnet.att.net Fri Jun 8 17:13:09 2001 From: gusnaz@worldnet.att.net (Gus Nelson) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 10:13:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender Message-ID: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou From nreyes777@hotmail.com Fri Jun 8 21:11:56 2001 From: nreyes777@hotmail.com (nreyes777@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082111.f58LBuh12892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is approximately 24". Please suggest plants for the following conditions: 1. north facing shaded entryway 2. compact habit 3. evergreen I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new birds of paradise plants? Thank you, Noemi Reyes From clementedesign@mindspring.com Fri Jun 8 21:44:13 2001 From: clementedesign@mindspring.com (clementedesign@mindspring.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:44:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. From sliu@apsc.com Fri Jun 8 23:18:12 2001 From: sliu@apsc.com (sliu@apsc.com) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106082318.f58NICh02621@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:12 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Planting and Flowers In-Reply-To: <200106082144.f58LiDh18054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: One plant that's nice this time of year is portulaca - kind of a succulent low-growing plant. It comes in different flower colors - yellow, orange, etc. and looks very nice. Since it's a succulent, it doesn't need as much water as some other plants but it does need occasional water. Purslane (also in the portulaca family) is pretty, too, but in my experience, it needs more water for flowering. I've planted these in the summer and they've done well. Ice plant (another low growing succulent) does well, too. These are annuals that will die when it gets cold. I have also planted vinca in the summer and they're doing nicely. These are flowers with nice green leaves that grow about 12 inches tall. They come in a variety of colors. But you MUST give them lots of water when you first plant them. After they're established, they need moderate water once established. These are perennials. You should be able to find all these plants now in garden centers and home centers. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of clementedesign@mindspring.com Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 2:44 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page What native plants should be planted in the months of June and July. Want color some low water use and some moderate water usage. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Jun 8 23:50:13 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:50:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender In-Reply-To: <003f01c0f03e$4fb25620$b453530c@hpcustomer> Message-ID: I have some experience with lavender and have found that they don't do well in pots in our heat. I think that the soil and roots get too hot in pots. But lavender in general does very well here if planted in the ground and gets adequate water. I have about 5 different varieties. A couple of them seem to be better at handling the heat that some of the others. I have two very large augustifolia lavender bushes that are happy. I planted them last year from one-gallon pots and they are about 3 feet wide now and spiked the lavender flowers in the spring. Canary Island lavender does well, too, but there's no fragrance to it. But it has bright purple spikes that look great. Check out the High Country Gardens site http://www.highcountrygardens.com/shop/results.html?sku=&name_latin=&name_co mmon=lavender&id=bc00736eec84c2125d594e118edf42f1&quicksearch=1&quicksearch. x=32&quicksearch.y=8 These folks sell a lot of plants for the desert southwest and have a variety of lavenders with writeups. Maybe you can find yours based on their description. Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Gus Nelson Sent: Friday, June 08, 2001 10:13 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] any luck with lavender I purchased 2 five gallon french lavender plants and have them in pots on a drip system. They are getting full sun. They were looking great but lately they are turning brown and the leaves are dropping. Is it just too hot here for them, any one have success with them in Arizona? Thankyou _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DEKJAN21@aol.com Sun Jun 10 02:10:13 2001 From: DEKJAN21@aol.com (DEKJAN21@aol.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100210.f5A2ADh06238@Ag.Arizona.Edu> all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank you... From j_harrell@NetZero.net Sun Jun 10 02:18:46 2001 From: j_harrell@NetZero.net (Jackie and Bill Harrell) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 19:18:46 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <3B22D905.98579AFB@NetZero.net> Dear Gardeners, My son-in-law fears he has lost his hardy tif sod - is this possible? It seems deader than a doornail - dry and wheat-colored. The sod was overseeded with winter rye, and as the hot weather came on, he quit watering it a little to "let the rye die" - was this lethal to the tif? Western Sod has told him to deep water it every three days, but it hasn't come back although perhaps he wasn't faithful enough to do it. Before he laid the sod, he spread some sand to even out the low places - harmful? However, the winter rye did fine. Any hope? Thanks, Jackie NetZero Platinum No Banner Ads and Unlimited Access Sign Up Today - Only $9.95 per month! http://www.netzero.net From umiller@azdps.com Sun Jun 10 03:21:16 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 20:21:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I just noticed that a small patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting. I thought that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the archives. From what I read in other sources, it seems like I shouldn't worry about this. But I want to be sure because it's just starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the time, I suppose. (I don't think that I'm overwatering it. I give it deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the temperature.) I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks could give me. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I just noticed that = a small=20 patch of one of the branches on my mesquite tree is splitting.  I = thought=20 that this topic had come up before, but I couldn't find it in the=20 archives.  From what I read in other sources, it seems like I=20 shouldn't worry about this.  But I want to be sure because it's = just=20 starting and if there's something that I can do to stop it, now is the = time, I=20 suppose.  (I don't think that I'm overwatering it.  = I give it=20 deep watering every three or four weeks, depending on the=20 temperature.)  I would appreciate any advice that you learned folks = could=20 give me.
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0000_01C0F121.BCD71180-- From jbfeller@home.com Sun Jun 10 04:12:27 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (jbfeller@home.com) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 21:12:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106100412.f5A4CRh17034@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I see a lot of tips for watering lawns and a lot of tips for watering trees, but haven’t seen any tips for watering both. Here’s my situation. I have 4 well-established eucalyptus trees in my back yard. 70-80 ft tall, trunks from 16" to 24" diam, branches out to about 15 to 20 ft diam, roots must be out that far, too. I periodically deep water them by letting the hose run and they have survived in spite of my inconsistent efforts. I am in the process installing an automatic lawn sprinkling system for a lawn area that will include the trees. Will the pop up lawn sprinklers be sufficient for the grass and trees or will I also need a method of deep watering the trees, like bubblers for each tree on their own zone? From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:38:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:38:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Apple Care] Message-ID: <3B23CCCA.595BE74B@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 28602 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:53 -0000 Received: from mail6.uswest.net (63.226.138.6) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:51 -0000 Received: (qmail 27794 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO docs.advinfoc.com) (216.89.100.226) by mail6.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 14:56:50 -0000 Received: from [216.89.100.192] by docs.advinfoc.com (NTMail 5.06.0016/NT4175.00.faf02432) with ESMTP id exqxcaaa for lindaguy@uswest.net; Wed, 30 May 2001 11:04:09 -0400 Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:56:45 -0400 Message-ID: From: "Helen Garrett" To: lindaguy@uswest.net Subject: Apple Care MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 1 (Highest) X-MSMail-Priority: High X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: High X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.00.2919.6700 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 What would you suggest to help young budding apples to grow? It seems that the birds are getting them faster than they can grow. And, what about bug control? Thanks --------------A8FC6AC99DCEEBA25EF28FEF-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:44:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:44:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Queen Palms] Message-ID: <3B23CE23.C8841642@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 6475 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: from mail8.uswest.net (63.226.138.8) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:26 -0000 Received: (qmail 504 invoked by uid 0); 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO imo-r10.mx.aol.com) (152.163.225.106) by mail8.uswest.net with SMTP; 30 May 2001 16:25:17 -0000 Received: from VO38@aol.com by imo-r10.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v30.22.) id z.3c.c630e56 (6964) for ; Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 -0400 (EDT) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:25:11 EDT Message-ID: <3c.c630e56.284678e7@aol.com> From: VO38@aol.com To: lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: Queen Palms MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10519 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall? I see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this? I live in Orange County, Southern Ca. Thanks, Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Can you tell me is there anyway to keep Queen Palms from growing so tall?  I
see some that are more stocky, what can be done to achieve this?  I live in
Orange County, Southern Ca.
Thanks,
Victoria --part1_3c.c630e56.284678e7_boundary-- --------------CF733EAAD98849CDF609C52C-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Jun 10 19:49:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tif grass Message-ID: <24.14bc263b.28552e35@aol.com> You may have cut back too much on the irrigation to let the rye grass die and especially if the turf was put down last year. If the turf does not show any signs of life after watering for another two weeks it is probably dead. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:27 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Trees, watering when planted in sod Message-ID: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 20:10:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 16:10:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite Tree Bark Beginning To Split Message-ID: <74.b90d994.28552e34@aol.com> Ursula, If the splitting of your Mesquite tree is on the bark only, it may be from drought stress and you should shorten the interval between irrigations especially during this hot weather. If the wood has started to crack then the limb should be removed for safety and to minimise damage that would be caused if the whole limb came down. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Jun 10 21:15:20 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 17:15:20 EDT Subject: Fwd: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Message-ID: <118.218220.28553d68@aol.com> --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? All parts of the oleander are considered poisonous 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? If the oleander trees have not received much water the roots will have grown a long way to get water. 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? Native trees can get by in the summer with little water but the non native trees will require deep water every week to 10 days in summer. 4. What is the origin of this tree? Oleanders are native to the Mediterraneam area and across Asia and Japan. Thanks, August august@rraz.net Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (rly-yc02.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.34]) by air-yc03.mail.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:51 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-yc02.mx.aol.com (v78_r3.8) with ESMTP; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:50:27 -0400 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with ESMTP id f5AJo3h05296; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:50:03 -0700 (MST) Received: from phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net (phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net [206.80.192.4]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.11.2/8.11.2) with SMTP id f5AJnhh05227 for ; Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:43 -0700 (MST) Received: (qmail 53937 invoked by alias); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Delivered-To: fixup-arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu@fixme Received: (qmail 53886 invoked by uid 0); 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Received: from vdsl-130-13-90-10.phnx.uswest.net (HELO qwest.net) (130.13.90.10) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 10 Jun 2001 19:49:58 -0000 Message-ID: <3B23CF5D.8392FF1A@qwest.net> From: Linda Guy X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.76 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Arid_gardener Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF" Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: Olander Trees] Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0.1 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 12:49:49 -0700 --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding:7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 22108 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from mail2.uswest.net (63.226.138.2) by pop.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: (qmail 10894 invoked by uid 0); 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO rrlhcmal1002.lhc.redrivernet.com) (206.162.75.2) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 2 Jun 2001 17:30:17 -0000 Received: from [216.173.151.41] by rrlhcmal1002.redrivernet.com (NTMail 6.03.0009/NU7672.00.de8cf6f5) with ESMTP id lkcsdcaa for lindaguy@qwest.net; Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:30:15 -0700 Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2001 10:33:15 -0700 Message-ID: <3B19235B.2115DC70@rraz.net> From: "August Hoecker" To: lindaguy@qwest.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.73 [en]C-WNS5.0 (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: Olander Trees Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Linda, I purchased our new home about a year and a half ago and it came with about 30 or more Oleander trees around the property line. They seem healthy and are growing like crazy. I have a few questions please: 1. I was told the leaves or bark(?) of the oleander is somewhat toxic. We have a new puppy that chews on everything including the oleanders. Is there any poisonous content to the leaves of this tree? 2. I was also told this tree sends out very long roots and may pose a threat to my septic leach field. Any truth here? 3. I have an automatic sprinkler system set up on all trees. When I water them in the summer months they grow like weeds. How much water do they need. What is the minimum? 4. What is the origin of this tree? Thanks, August august@rraz.net --------------8F128889BFD9A5622662CFFF-- --part1_118.218220.28553d68_boundary-- From fireplug04@excite.com Sun Jun 10 22:38:34 2001 From: fireplug04@excite.com (fireplug04@excite.com) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 15:38:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. From umiller@azdps.com Mon Jun 11 01:35:33 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 18:35:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Shrubs and Trees on 1-1/2 Acres In-Reply-To: <200106102238.f5AMcYh18080@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - I'll let one of the Master Gardeners answer your questions but I do have 2 cents worth of information (primarily because I just came in from the outside and saw that some of my bushes need trimming because they've grown so fast). I'm not a Master Gardener. There are a couple of shrubs that do very well here and grow very fast. One is Cape Honeysuckle. It has bright green shiny leaves with many orange trumpet-shaped flowers during some parts of the year. It needs some watering. It grows VERY fast. Another bush - a little airier is Arizona Yellow Bells (tecoma stans). It has little medium green leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers during the summer. It also grows very fast. Needs some water, but not a lot. The less water, the less flowers. There seem to be two kinds - one with the yellow flowers that grows about 6 feet tall if untrimmed and one with orange flowers that grows as big as a house. I didn't know this and planted one of each next to my house and am constantly cutting back the orange one because I don't want such a huge bush there. But the yellow one stays at a good size. Of course, there's bougainvillea which is lovely. Just make sure that you buy the shrub kind and not the climbing kind. They need water when planted (and make sure that you avoid disturbing the rootball when planting) but once they're fully grown you don't need to water them anymore. On this one - the less water, the more flowers (bracts). On the trees, I have a mesquite (the kind without thorns - I think it's an Australian or Chilean mesquite) that I bought for shade. It grows fast and is nice and airy. You see these all over the Valley. They get to be quite big and have a large canopy. As far as planting goes, I wouldn't plant anything during the summer. I did plant some bushes during one summer and SOME of the plants survived but they had a hard time of it. I'd wait until it's cooler. Good luck. (I think that I've planted 1-1/2 acres' worth of plants in my puny little backyard. As the Hill Street Blues saying goes: It's a jungle out there.) Ursula -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of fireplug04@excite.com Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 3:39 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello, I live in Apache Junction on 1.5 cleared acres. I want to plant some drought tolerant trees and shrubs on my property. I would like the trees to be good shade trees and fast growers. I would like the shrubs to be fast growers. What would you recommend and should I wait for the fall to do this? Thank you. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From bacanorajoe@earthlink.net Mon Jun 11 03:31:23 2001 From: bacanorajoe@earthlink.net (J.O. Teague) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have any ideas here? From kberg@qwest.net Mon Jun 11 13:03:06 2001 From: kberg@qwest.net (kberg@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 06:03:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106111303.f5BD36h11275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! I believe I have what appear to be 2 beautiful ash trees growing in our back yard. The diameter of the trunk might be about 10-12 inches, I was guessing the trees are about 12 years old. We recently inherited some cats that are using the trunks of these trees as their scratching posts! The bark is starting to split and fall away from one of the trees but not the other. Could the cats be causing this or is their something else I should look at that my be endangering our beautiful trees? Thank you! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 14:45:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:45:44 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying Message-ID: The ironwood native to the Sonoran Desert, Olneya tesota, is the tree I know by this name. Is this the tree species you have? What part od Northern Tucson do you live? The ironwood we have here is frost tender and I am wondering if temperatures are too cold in your area for this tree to thrive. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "J.O. Teague" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ironwoods are dying >Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 20:31:23 -0700 > >I am caring for 3 acres in Northern Tucson. Two ironwoods have died of what >appears to be a root fungus (according to a botanist that examined the >trees). Four or five ironwood trees in the area have died in the last two >years. I think two or three more are dying now. The process seems to take a >year or so. Leaves are still on the trees when they die. Does anyone have >any ideas here? > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:02:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:02:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] plants dying Message-ID: Could you give us more specific information? Do the plants wilt Do the leaves turn brown Do leaves and/or stems disappear with no trace Are there holes or chewed edges on the leaves Are leaves brown on the edges or splotchy looking Are there trails of plant parts leading away from the plants Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: DEKJAN21@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:10:13 -0700 (MST) > >all my plants are dying but not for lack of watering...seems to be >something eating them up but we do not see anything on the leaves or any >part of the plants...this includes my vegetable garden as well as roses, >desert honeysuckle, hibiscus...need to know what u think it is...thank >you... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:13:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:13:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes Message-ID: Grapes grow well in our climate with adequate water. They make great shade and usually produce grapes, but my experience is that the grapes are smaller -- as you've noted. Vineyard grapes are tended to produce large grapes -- correct pruning in January is crucial; after fruit set, clusters are thinned out and then later grapes from clusters are thinned again. One of our Master Gardeners has a vineyard in Vail and he could give you more specific information. His email address is: charronvineyards@theriver.com Linda Drew Master Gardeners >From: sliu@apsc.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 16:18:12 -0700 (MST) > >My thompson grapevine grows like crazy every year. Those grapevines in the >vineyard does not grow as big and give bigger fruit. > >What should I do to grow my grapevine like that? Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Jun 11 15:30:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:30:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen shrubs, north exposure Message-ID: Bird of paradise can grow in plentiful sun so you old ones may be leggy because of the north exposure. A few examples of evergreen shubs that do well in shade are: Abelia grandiflora (glossy abelia) Cocculus laurifolius (cocculus) Fatsia japonica ( Japanese aralia) Myrtus communis 'compacta'(dwarf myrtle) Nandina domestica (heavenly bamboo) Osmanthus fragrans (sweet olive) Viburnum japonicum (Japanese viburnum) Asparagus densiflorus "sprengeri' (asparagus fern) It really depends on the look you want. Does the area get direct sun at any time in the day? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: nreyes777@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 14:11:56 -0700 (MST) > >I need to replace a pair of 8 year old very leggy, very tall bird of >paradise potted plants on each side of our front door. The pot size is >approximately 24". > >Please suggest plants for the following conditions: >1. north facing shaded entryway >2. compact habit >3. evergreen > >I was originally thinking of an Italian Cypress. Or should I just get new >birds of paradise plants? > >Thank you, >Noemi Reyes > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From jbfeller@home.com Mon Jun 11 18:24:39 2001 From: jbfeller@home.com (Jack Feller) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 11:24:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trees, watering when planted in sod References: <70.b7ebc95.28552e33@aol.com> Message-ID: <000b01c0f2a3$c6e8a3e0$c9390f18@phnx3.az.home.com> Thanks for your reply. I have used bubblers successfully at other properties with a shallow basin around the eucalyptus trees that hold the water till it penetrates. I've already trenched for the bubbler lines along with the sprinkler lines. How often should mature eucalyptus be deep watered like that? What should the diameter of the basins be? I live on a acre with a 6' block wall around the property. I want to plant trees inside the wall to make a green barrier above the wall. Also possibly around my house for shade. I want them green all year, low maintenance, drought resistant, fast growing, etc. I've heard that African Sumac is a good bet and have seen some and think they will work. How far in from the wall should they be? How far apart? How fast do they grow? Any alternatives to African Sumac that might work. Thanks, Jack ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 1:10 PM Subject: Trees, watering when planted in sod > Since the water for your sod probably won't penetrate more than 8 to 10 > inches and the eucalyptus tree roots are deeper you would be wise to deep > water the Eucs periodically. I don't think that the bubblers will work unless > you have a basin around the Eucs because the bubblers apply so much water at > one time that it will run off before it penetrates. An underground line with > built in emitters such as Toro makes might be an answer, or you could > continue to leave the hose running slowly over night periodically. > > Good luck. > > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist > > From IvaHD@mindspring.com Mon Jun 11 19:43:54 2001 From: IvaHD@mindspring.com (Iva Hacker-Delany) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:43:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Basil Message-ID: Hi, I started some basil a few weeks ago in a pot. It started off fine, I had 5 healthy looking buds, one died fairly quickly the other four were doing fine (now about 2 inches tall) but another started looking pale a few days ago, and when I looked closely I saw some tiny white specs up and down all the stems. I over all they seem to be growing fairly slowly (I planted them about 8 or 9 weeks ago and they are only 2 inches tall. I am worried that the white dots are something that will kill the basil. thanks -Iva From phg@citieswestpub.com Mon Jun 11 22:10:01 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:10:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Jun 11 23:22:07 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 16:22:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010611160451.00ac2230@ag.arizona.edu> The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Ceasar Mazier, Director or Horticulture, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8156. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From stewart.clements@belden-cd.com Tue Jun 12 03:17:18 2001 From: stewart.clements@belden-cd.com (stewart.clements@belden-cd.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:17:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120317.f5C3HEq03790@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have Pearl Scale in my front lawn. Currently, there are two patches both 2-3 feet in diameter. My question is...can I kill the infestation by letting the grass die (stop watering the lawn)? If so, do I still have to remove the dirt within the infected areas? I plan to replace all of the grass so the only issue is whether I have to remove the dirt within the infected areas. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Stewart Clements From llfarrington@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 04:41:55 2001 From: llfarrington@earthlink.net (llfarrington@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 21:41:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106120441.f5C4ftq10912@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I will be moving to Chandler with my company, Toyota Financial Services, in September or October from Seattle, Washington. I have a large-6'tall-common calla lilly that I would like to move with me. It was a gift and has been in the friend's family for several generations-at one time was at home on Mercer Island, Washington. I would appreciate any suggestions you may be able to offer to ensure a successful move and transplant. Thank you! From reeva5@qwest.net Tue Jun 12 14:26:04 2001 From: reeva5@qwest.net (Randee) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 08:26:04 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses Message-ID: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0 Content-Type: image/gif; name="Blank Bkgrd.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-ID: <001001c0f34b$9cb3cde0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> R0lGODlhLQAtAID/AP////f39ywAAAAALQAtAEACcAxup8vtvxKQsFon6d02898pGkgiYoCm6sq2 7iqWcmzOsmeXeA7uPJd5CYdD2g9oPF58ygqz+XhCG9JpJGmlYrPXGlfr/Yo/VW45e7amp2tou/lW xo/zX513z+Vt+1n/tiX2pxP4NUhy2FM4xtjIUQAAOw== ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0F319.52195DE0-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Jun 12 16:30:50 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 09:30:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses References: <001401c0f34b$a3485fe0$f76cb5d1@speedchoice.com> Message-ID: <3B2643BA.3B86CE97@email.sps.mot.com> Are you sure they are burning? Please describe what the leaves look like right now. I'm suspecting spider mites, and not burning if you have not been fertilizing. Are the leaves turning yellow than brown, starting at the base of the plant, and working their way up the plant? Do you see little webs on the underside of the leaves? Do the bottom of the leaves look rough compared to the top? If so, I would suspect spidermites. The best thing to get rid of these is to spray the underside of your rose bushes with a strong jet of water two or three times a week. A water wand works really great for this. This will wash the spidermites off, and discourage them from coming back, as they do not like high humidity area's. They like it nice and dry and hot. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 172 Rose Bushes Planted! 100 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Randee wrote: > BlankI deep water my roses every other day. The leaves and the new growth > are burning. I have not fertilized in a long time. Please help. From kapalmer@earthlink.net Tue Jun 12 18:57:51 2001 From: kapalmer@earthlink.net (kapalmer@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:57:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121857.f5CIvpq16933@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I "force" bulbs planted in the garden, such as tulips, gladiola, iris, daffodils, to bloom in the fall instead of spring. With blooming in the fall and cooler weather I was hoping the blooms would last longer. Once, I had a gladiola that bloomed in October/November and the bloom lasted 2 weeks! It was just a fluke. I'd like to repeat that with other bulbs and have a nice fall garden. How can I do that? Thanks, Kathy From scott.howie@onsemi.com Tue Jun 12 19:38:43 2001 From: scott.howie@onsemi.com (scott.howie@onsemi.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 12:38:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? Thanks. Scott Howie From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Jun 12 20:37:36 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:37:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Horticulturist position available AMENDED Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010612133524.00ab4ef0@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week. The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team. The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds. This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering. Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events. Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis. Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred. Related experience may be substituted. To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_4131336==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
This is an amended posting about the Horticulturist position sent earlier this week.

The Desert Botanical Garden is seeking a horticulturist to join the Horticulture Department team.  The primary responsibility will be the curation and maintenance of the Garden's Agave collection in the core garden, propagation and surrounding grounds.  This would entail proper labeling and categorization of collections, tracking of collections, acquisition of suitable taxa, propagation of seeds and backup plants, fertilization, pest and disease management, seasonal protection and watering.  Other responsibilities include serving as instructor for appropriate classes for our Desert Landscaping School Program, volunteers and docents; serving as a speaker for our outreach program; and assisting with Garden special events.  Applicant must be able to work with volunteers on a regular basis.  Bachelor of Science degree in horticulture, botany or related field preferred.  Related experience may be substituted.

To apply, send or fax resume and cover letter to Mary Catellier, Human Resources, Desert Botanical Garden, 1201 N. Galvin Pkwy, Phoenix, AZ 85008, FAX:480-481-8173.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308
602-470-8092 (fax)
Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_4131336==_.ALT-- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:50:39 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:50:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106121938.f5CJchq23445@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26809F.FAACDED5@AuroraNow.org> I'm not a master gardener or arborist, but the Desert Ironwood, if relatively mature and established, should definitely not be on a drip system. If anything, a deep soaking once a month in the dry season would be all it needs. I don't know how long you've had this tree on the system, but you may want to reduce it's waterings gradually. Most wild/native ironwood populations only bloom heavily every other year. Next year you should have a good purple display again. scott.howie@onsemi.com wrote: > > We are trying to find out whether Ironwood trees can take regular irigation via a drip system. Presently we have large Ironwood on our proprty in Cave Creek. The two ironwoods that get regular water (daily for 1-2 hours/day) do not look as good as others that get no regular watering at all. Also, this yaer there were very few flowers on any of our ironwoods. Do you have any idea why? > Thanks. Scott Howie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Jun 12 20:56:47 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 13:56:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200106112210.f5BMA1q23836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> It sure sounds like it! What kind of weed killer did you use? If you ever use systemic weed killers like Round-up, any little overspray can affect surrounding plants. It helps to create a cone for the nozzle (top half of an empty gallon milk jug works well) to direct the spray only at the weeds, but its still best to keep your distance from desired plants. I was warned recently that "permanent" weed killers, such as soil sterliants, can spread through the ground slowly over a hundred yards killing everything in its wake. phg@citieswestpub.com wrote: > > About three months ago I sprayed some weed killer near my Mexican Bird of Paradise. Everywhere I look in the Valley lately, these shrubs are ablaze in color, except mine. It looks lackluster and has no blooms. Did I accidentally poison it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From jennaz31@aol.com Tue Jun 12 23:02:01 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:02:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106122302.f5CN21q07319@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi I have 6 night blooming jasmine bushes that seem to be having a problem. The leave are curling up and they look like someone has bleached the ends. I do not see any pests on the underside of the leaves and thinking it may be an iron issue I applied chelated iron--I noticed that 3 of the bushes had buds in early May, but have not seen any since--when does this plant flower? I am watering 1 1/2 hours every 3 days. Thanks for your help Jenn From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 00:18:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 20:18:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <71.e47f7ef.28580b3c@aol.com> Stewart, The following article on Pearl Scale by Dave Langston and Sharon Dewey should answer your questions. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener By Sharon Dewey, Certified Turfgrass Professional, and Dave Langston, Ph.D. University of Arizona, College of Agriculture PEARL SCALE Pearl scale or ground pearl, refers to an insect that can be a problem for St. Augustine, Zoysia and Bermuda grasses. Hybrid Bermuda grasses are usually more affected than common Bermuda. As the name implies, an infestation will resemble miniature pearls. Scale insects secrete a whitish to brown substance that covers and protects their bodies, and are seldom larger than one-sixteenth of an inch. These insects suck the juices from plants, usually killing the root. The grass gradually weakens, turns yellow, then brown, thins and dies, and circular patches of dead grass will appear on the lawn. Damage will appear in the fall as the grass is going in to dormancy. These damaged areas will not recover the following spring when the grass begins to grow again. In late May and lasting throughout the summer, the majority of females emerge from their pearl scales and lay about 100 eggs in a waxy coat. In a few days the eggs hatch into crawlers, which attach to grass roots. They secrete a hard, waxy coating that becomes the next generation of ground pearl scale. Here are some tips on detecting pearl scale. 1. Dig at the edge of the damaged area that is next to an unaffected area. 2. Carefully dig down two to four inches. Try not to spread scale to unaffected area. 3. Look at the roots of unaffected area. 4. Pearl scale are obvious because of their contrasting color and their shape. 5. The insects are soft and can be easily squashed. 6. Be very careful with contaminated soil and the tools used to examine the lawn, as they can contaminate unaffected area. Controlling scale. Pearl scales are spread in infested turf and through the use of dirty equipment. Always wash the soil off shovels, trowels or other lawn and garden equipment after each use. Mowers are not likely to transfer scales unless they are very dirty. There are no chemical control methods that completely rid the lawn of pearl scale. However, there is some evidence that applications of soil acidifiers (these reduce soil pH), and/or the product Merit may help slow down the spread of pearl scale. The optimal time for treating a lawn with Merit is in late May when the females are emerging. 1. The best chance for control is early detection when the circular patches are small and manageable. 2. Carefully remove damaged patches one foot beyond the affected area and one foot deep. Then dispose of the affected roots and the surrounding soil. Pearl scales may withstand long periods of drought in the soil, and may still be alive after more than a year. So be very careful to avoid spreading them when replacing damaged turf. 3. Most of the pearl scale will be in the upper two to four inches of soil, but have been found as deep as grass roots grow, making control very difficult. 4. After removing affected portions of the lawn replace the contaminated soil. At this time you may want to treat with soil acidifiers and/or Merit and then re-sod or seed the area. 5. To enhance the penetration of soil acidifiers, make holes in the area to be treated before applying acid mixtures. Prevention. Proper maintenance helps prevent pearl scale infestations. Although rare, some lawns, particularly common Bermuda have been shown to grow out of an infestation when the lawn receives proper maintenance. Also, seeded Bermuda appears to be able to better withstand pearl scale, or at least the spots can be reseeded each year to cover the damaged areas. This is NOT a control method but merely hides the damaged spots. Maintenance tips: 1. Water deeply (eight to 10 inches), but only as often as to avoid wilt. 2. Fertilize every four to six weeks using a complete fertilizer such as a 21-7-14 blend. 3. Mow no more than the top one third of the grass, using a sharp mower blade. 4. Remove thatch if it is more than one-half inch thick. 5. Use proper soil management. For more Pearl Scale information: The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension Fact Sheet MC45, write to 4341 E. Broadway Road, Phoenix, AZ 85040 For more Turf Grass information: Contact the Arizona Cooperative Extension's Web Site - http://www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Web Site: www.westernsod.com E-mail: wsod@westernsod.com Phone: Tuft Hot Line: 10800-321-TURF for turf questions of the Lawngevity video Write: Sharon Dewey, Western Sod, P.O. Box 10610, Casa Grande, AZ 85230 Sharon Dewey is a Certified Turfgrass Professional, a local turfgrass troubleshooter and a Master Gardener with the University of Arizona Cooperative Extension. Dave Langston, Ph.D. is the Superintendent of the Arizona Maricopa Agricultural Center, an Extension Specialist in Entomology with the University of Arizona. He can be reached at langston@ag.arizona.edu or write to 37860 W. Smith-Enke Rd., Maricopa, AZ 85239-3010. From dejay7@tampabay.rr.com Wed Jun 13 02:25:29 2001 From: dejay7@tampabay.rr.com (Don Dennis) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:25:29 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: <000a01c0f3b0$1daf5f40$1527a418@tampabay.rr.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am trying to find this lant as I ws told it likes hot dry climates. If = anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am trying to find this lant as I ws = told it likes=20 hot dry climates. If anyne has info about this plant please reply to donplanteman@yahoo.com=20
------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0F38E.965A9BC0-- From libbyjeffg@earthlink.net Wed Jun 13 04:09:34 2001 From: libbyjeffg@earthlink.net (libbyjeffg@earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:09:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106130409.f5D49Yq13322@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Mesquite tree that has been in the ground for 1 year. It started out as a 1 gallon plant. It has grown at a phenomenal rate. I pruned it last week to encourage more growth, 8 ft. Now the tree nearly lays on the ground when I take it loose from its stakes. Should I leave it staked up or try to let it grow in whatever direction it desires? From jdtiffan@aol.com Wed Jun 13 14:44:39 2001 From: jdtiffan@aol.com (jdtiffan@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 07:44:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131444.f5DEidq10609@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a very large, shallow back yard surrounded by a block fence. What recommendations would you make for a hedge, against the block wall, that will not intrude too far into the yard. We basically want to hide the wall. In the yard we have very mature orange trees. Thank you for your consideration of our situation. From mgdlite37d@aol.com Wed Jun 13 17:18:46 2001 From: mgdlite37d@aol.com (mgdlite37d@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 10:18:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131718.f5DHIkq06898@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have a problem of tiny ants running up and down along my planter. Planter has granite in it and lantana, bougnvila. Donot want to use harsh chemicals because I have great pet cat that Iwalk early mornings for a few minutes a day, then back in the house he goes when I give him the recall command. Must be a better way to control this other than chemicals. Oh by the way when the weather cools they(ants )are gone. Need some suggestions. Thanks Sal From nannygranny@netzero.net Wed Jun 13 18:35:38 2001 From: nannygranny@netzero.net (nannygranny@netzero.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 11:35:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131835.f5DIZcq20886@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted a Chinese wisteria about 5 years ago and so far I haven't had any blooms although the plant has grown up the side of the house. I know it takes awhile for the first blooms to start but I am wondering if the plant is lacking something. It is on the North side of the house and is shaded most of the day except for 2-3 hours in late afternoon. I read in Sunset Western Garden Book that it "blooms in considerable shade" so I went ahead and put it there. What should I be feeding or doing to it to get it to bloom? From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:08:45 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131908.f5DJ8jq26541@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! From eric_karin@yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 19:11:52 2001 From: eric_karin@yahoo.com (eric_karin@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:11:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106131911.f5DJBqq27109@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I go about finding out what utility lines are buried in our yard, and where they are? Our house is about 25 years old, and I have no idea about the original builder. I live in Mesa. This question is prompted because shortly after we moved into the house, there was a problem with something in the neighborhood (water, or electricity, but I can't remember which) and whomever was responsible had to come and dig up a 6 foot by 4 foot area in our back lawn in order to get at something to fix it. I'm now interested in planting in that general area, and need to know what I can and can't plant and where. Thanks! Karin Crawford From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed Jun 13 19:41:28 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] green beans not producing? In-Reply-To: <3B26820F.E5B2F75E@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3B1F829E00003F64@phobos.email.Arizona.EDU> I planted green beans in tucson around march 15, and the plants looked great. But I only got a single bean! Not all that many flowers, and they just drop off. Suggstions? My cow-peas are doing fine. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ant treatment, non chemical Message-ID: <14.1592a5b5.2859483a@aol.com> Sal, For warm weather use make up a slurry of citrus peel and water in your blender, locate the ant nest and pour the slurry on the nest. Another suggestion is to put a small amount of Cream of Wheat near the ant nest or by their trail. When the ants eat the Cream of Wheat they swell up and poof. This will take a little longer than the citrus slurry. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:36 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:36 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite, staking Message-ID: If you still have the nursery stake which was tied directly to the trunk of the tree in place, then you should restake the tree with two or three stakes located about two feet from the trunk and tied in only one place. The tree must be allowed to move in order to strengthen the trunk. I hope that when you pruned the tree you didn't remove the lower branches. It is good pruning practice not to remove any thing from a newly planted tree for two years. Leaving all the branches on helps to strengthen the trunk so that it can stand alone. It is most important to water newly planted trees properly. so that the roots will grow deep in order to anchor the mesquite, a fast growing tree. Assuming that you live in the low desert ( Phoenix Area ) you should be deep watering the Mesquite once every 10 days to 2 weeks in summer. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture where you will find great info on pruning as well as watering on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Covering a block wall Message-ID: <10f.11ab235.2859483b@aol.com> Why not use Cat's Claw Vine to cover your block wall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed Jun 13 22:50:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:50:32 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Utility Lines Message-ID: <46.1622ef35.28594838@aol.com> A company called Blue Stake will locate your utility lines for you. Call them at 602 263 1100. If you want to know the location of each utility line, when you call ask them what color line represents what utility. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From appled55@aol.com Wed Jun 13 23:17:32 2001 From: appled55@aol.com (appled55@aol.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 16:17:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106132317.f5DNHWq20047@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am attempting to find out about trees that grown in climates that are hot year-round. Do those trees ever lose their leaves and go dormant? I would appreciate any response you can give me or anyplace you can point me for further information. Thanks! From alamo@ultrasw.com Thu Jun 14 00:01:57 2001 From: alamo@ultrasw.com (Signa) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 17:01:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 01:54:53 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 18:54:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, folks! Does this vitamin plant starter really work? I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference with my new plantings. I guess my question is: is it worth buying and using? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi, = folks!
 
Does this vitamin = plant starter=20 really work?  I use it but don't know if I'm making a difference = with my=20 new plantings.  I guess my question is:  is it worth buying = and using?=20
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0F43A.54FFBAA0-- From umiller@azdps.com Thu Jun 14 02:00:51 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 19:00:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.2.20010613164429.00a0b3d0@pop3.norton.antivirus> Message-ID: Your question made me do a little research because I'm a proponent of not feeding them very much, watering them little if at all, and I get lots of flowers -- but this is only after the plant is fully established in the ground and a couple of years old. So here is what I have come up with. My Plants for Dry Climates book says that overwatering and overfertilizing causes the plants to bloom little, if at all. However, Mr. Gordon Braswell (a former retired nursery owner who specialized in bougainvilleas makes mention that they need to be fertilized. So I guess the point is to find the right amount of fertilizer and not overdo it. (I fertilize and frequently water my younger plants, but do nothing with the older established ones.) You may want to check out Mr. Braswell's web page at http://bougainvillea.freeyellow.com/bougainvillea.html and go to the Bougainvillea Culture section. It's chock full of information. He also explains the 'flowering' cycle, which was something that had me stumped for a while until I read the explanation on his web page. Keep in mind that he lives in Florida, so conditions are little different there, but the basics should still be the same. Mr. Braswell is also very nice about responding to questions via his site. On the watering - if they're wilting, they need more water -- especially while they're still so young. I would try watering them three times a week and then tapering off when the weather gets cooler again. You could check, though, to see if they stay wilted into the evening. Sometimes plants 'wilt' when it's very hot but spring back later in the day. If they stay wilted in the evening, definitely give them more water. Good luck! San Diego Red is so vibrant; I love that strain. Ursula Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Signa Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 5:02 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer Care of New Bougainvilla I planted a 5-gallon bougainvilla (San Diego Red) in Tucson in mid-April. It is on a west-facing house wall, getting morning shade and direct sun from noon on. I have gradually been cutting back on the watering interval, aiming for twice weekly at present, but find 2 days after a watering the leaves and growing tips wilt in the afternoon heat of June. What would be an appropriate watering interval this first summer while the plant is still in the process of becoming established? Also, I read here that feeding discourages bougainvilla bloom and should in general be avoided. Does this even hold true for a young plant where I want to encourage initial quick growth? TIA Signa _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From agallar@prodigy.net Thu Jun 14 05:02:34 2001 From: agallar@prodigy.net (agallar@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 22:02:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106140502.f5E52Yq26314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had problems with my aptenia cordifolia groundcovers. They do great and grow for 1-2 years, then they get yellow and dry out from the ground up. This eventually kills them. Am I overwatering (1 time per week) or are there pests that attack this plant? Is there some thing that I can do to prevent this from happening, as it always attacks when the plants have matured and grown into very large covers? From plumbozz@home.com Thu Jun 14 13:50:36 2001 From: plumbozz@home.com (plumbozz@home.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141350.f5EDoaq09892@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to let it go or if old canes should be taken out. Thanks. From Geri1947@aol.com Thu Jun 14 15:49:09 2001 From: Geri1947@aol.com (Geri1947@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 08:49:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106141549.f5EFn9q24456@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Upon a recent visit to the Tucson Area I noticed all the oleaders planted around town. Since it seems to be that they do not require a great deal of care, we had been discussing for a while the planting of Oleanders at the entrance and down the fence line of our farm in Texas.I had planned on writing Texas A&M University but when I saw the article from the University of Arizona decided to write you. My questions: While Oleanders are poisonious to humans do you know if Cattle will eat them, and if so, are they poisonious to Cattle? Will they just avoid them? If you know the answer to these questions, kindly e-mail me at Geri1947@aol.com. Thank you for your time. Geri McCarty From rdstev8860@aol.com Thu Jun 14 22:50:15 2001 From: rdstev8860@aol.com (rdstev8860@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 15:50:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200106142250.f5EMoFq06515@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 30 foot row of "bunny ears" cacti. The delicate yellow flowers were beautiful. After flowering, there are empty pods left. Can I knock those pods off and dicard? They look ugly as they sit on the cacti. Thank you for your time and patience to ge me an answer. Robert D Stevens From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:37:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:37:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Blackberries, pruning Message-ID: We are trying blackberries in our Tucson garden for the first time. The blackberries that grow best in Tucson are primarily those developed in Texas, rather than varieties from Arkansas or the northern U.S. Here are some tips I found at Texas A&M: Pruning is necessary to maintain an orderly planting and to control diseases. Long handled "loppers" are best for pruning blackberries. During the first year, growth is sprawling and does not need topping. Although blackberry roots are perennial, tops are biennial. Prima canes are produced the first year and produce rapid vegetative growth only. Cut prima canes back when they reach 36 to 48" to encourage branching, as illustrated in Figure 1. Floricanes are the second year of the biennial cycle and bloom in March. The fruit ripens in May. After fruiting, the floricanes will die and should be cut to the ground. To make picking easier, some growers hedge the rows to a 4' height and a 3' width while others train the prima canes onto a vertical three wire trellis. Every three years mature plants need to be mowed to the ground to remove diseased wood and rejuvenate growth. This usually reduces yield the following year. It should only be attempted where irrigation can stimulate prima cane growth by the end of the season. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/blackberries/blackberries.html (includes illustrations of pruning) http://www.cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/h-325.html (information on trellis) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: plumbozz@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 06:50:36 -0700 (MST) > >Is there an online reference, or can you provide some tips, concerning the >proper pruning of blackberry bushes? I have lots of new growth that >followed the late spring harvest we just enjoyed, but don't know how far to >let it go or if old canes should be taken out. > >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Jun 14 23:49:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 19:49:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vitamin B1 Plant Starter Message-ID: <61.f2536d3.285aa774@aol.com> Ursula, During Master Gardener training we were informed that University of Arizona tests have shown that plants on which B1 starter was used did not respond any better than those that did not have the B1. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Jun 14 23:53:42 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2001 23:53:42 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] false boxelder bug Message-ID: Your description sounds like false boxelder bugs. We have seen a lot of them this year for some reason. Usually, feeding causes some deformity on fruits but no real damage. For severe infestations, spray with pyrethrin following the label directions carefully since you are treating a food plant. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: eric_karin@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 12:08:45 -0700 (MST) > >We have lots of red & black beetles around our yard, and at first they >didn't seem to be doing much damage, so I didn't mind them. Now I noticed >that they are eating my sweet peppers as soon as they start to get ripe. >What are they and what do I do about them? Thanks for the help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Jun 15 00:01:54 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2001 00:01:54 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] chrysothemis pulchella Message-ID: