From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 1 00:00:51 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:00:51 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > If it is so toxic, I am > amazed > why the nursery did not warn me about it. Because nurseries and landscapers assume you're interested in a species because of it's visual appeal, not it's culinary uses. Oleanders are also very poisonous. The advantage: rabbits, deer, etc. leave them alone. If you have young children, you may want to move it (or put a 3-4' fence around it), but my dogs never bother my oleander. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 1 01:14:05 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:14:05 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Publication on citrus irrigation You can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener Marvbevy@aol.com wrote: > How much water does citrus trees need > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:04 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:04 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine If you are referring to Carolina Jessamine, yes all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:06 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, watering The following website has info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:05 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cochineal Scale Joe, The white substance you are seeing on your cactus is caused by an insect, Cochineal Scale which sucks the juice from the cacti. The white substance you see is exuded by the insect as protection from predators. The good news is that a strong spray of water will wash the insect off the cacti. The Indians used this insect to make red dye. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:03 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:03 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Palo Brea Patty, The Palo Brea grows at a moderate rate, and as a desert adapted tree can get by on very little water once it is established. If you want fast growth then give it more water, deep water that is. The only fertilizer that should be used the first year in the ground would be to put fertilizer spikes beneath the root ball covered with two to three inches of dirt. Summertime deep watering once a week should give you optimum growth. Once the tree aproaches the height you desire ( its maximum is 25 feet) you could increase the irrigation interval to three to four weeks in summer and double or triple that in the winter. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 1 01:45:59 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:45:59 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting citrus You can view a publication on Budding (Grafting) Citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf The publication states that you can bud any citrus variety onto any other citrus variety. Sue Bass Master Gardener croft8@juno.com wrote: > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Mexvella@aol.com Thu Mar 1 05:37:25 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:37:25 -0700 (MST) From: Mexvella@aol.com Mexvella@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. From Hillzones@aol.com Thu Mar 1 16:06:11 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 09:06:11 -0700 (MST) From: Hillzones@aol.com Hillzones@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does anyone know why our citrus trees are losing all their leaves and some of the new buds. We are very worried about them! An answer will be greatly appreciated, thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 1 16:43:57 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 09:43:57 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't receive it. Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in the Western Garden Book. Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others say don't. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Mar 1 17:51:00 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:00 -0700 (MST) From: rcdemark@aol.com rcdemark@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the proper time to feed and use Bordeaux fungicide on my Queen Palms? From ClaireASP@aol.com Thu Mar 1 17:51:20 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:20 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just recently saw a 10" potted Texas Mountain Laurel at a local Home Depot. It was in bloom, and I thought that the flower was beautiful. I have only seen one of these growing around my area,(No. East Scottsdale), so I am wondering if there is a specific reason for this. Are there certain disadvantages for growing this tree; and is there a reason that I would not want to plant one? You have been very helpful in the past, and I will be anxiously waiting for your comments, once again. In the meantime, I will hold off buying one of these trees. Thanks again for all your help. Claire. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 19:32:39 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 19:32:39 -0000 From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] currants in Sierra Vista Jo Babbie, Thank you for your question regarding growing currants in Sierra Vista. Your email was forwarded to the Pima County Master Gardeners. If you have other questions, please feel welcome to send them to: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu or you can call us at (520) 626-5161 >Can currant bushes grow successfully in Sierra Vista? Currants require cool, moist, partially-shaded locations they are heavy feeders -- rich compost, acid soil the first year, soil should not be allowed to dry out they grow in the cooler parts of the U.S. - do not grow well in South they are host to one stage of the white pine blister rust Given that information, I doubt currants would grow well in Sierra Vista. The Yuma Experiment Station has successfully grown heat-adapted varieties of blackberries, but I have not heard any success with currants. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu Mar 1 23:25:53 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:25:53 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel Hi Claire, I have two Texas Mountain Laurel growing in my yard. So far they have been trouble free and do not need much in the way of supplemental water once established. I hear there is a beetle that chews on the leaves sometimes but it doesn't seem to be a major problem. If you buy one I suggest that you buy the largest you can find in a pot as they grow very slow. I have the standard Mountain Laurel as well as the mutated one called Silver Pecos. As the name implies its leaves are silvery instead of just bright green. After the bloom the plant will put on pods filled with a few red seeds. The seeds are poisonous but the seed coat are so hard that they pass thru a digestive system without ill affects. I still would be careful if you have small kids or puppies. Did you notice that the blooms smell like grape koolaide? I'm very fond of this plant. If you are anywhere near the Maricopa County Extension office they have some that are mature trees. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Mar 1 23:07:17 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:07:17 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers On the buddleia origins: My book says the following: Most of the cultivated species originate in China, but the genus also occurs in Africa, Madagascar, southern Asia and South America and includes many tropical and subtropical species. My book also says that it's really buddleja - "The spelling buddleia is often seen for this genus (named after seventeeth century English botanist Adam Buddle) but buddleja is now ruled the correct form." Well, it may be RULED the correct form, but all my other references (books and nurseries) use buddleia. That's probably because we don't live in a monarchy. My book reference above is a huge book called 'BOTANICA - The illustrated A-Z of over 10,000 garden plants and how to cultivate them". It's published in the USA but an imprint of Random House Australia. Maybe the RULING comes from Queen Liz. Someone else will have to answer the daisy question. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:44 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't receive it. Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in the Western Garden Book. Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others say don't. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sdyoder@attglobal.net Fri Mar 2 00:34:53 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 17:34:53 -0700 From: sdyoder@attglobal.net sdyoder@attglobal.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #51 - 32 msgs Re: Slikmouth12 Message 12: What you have is not a fungus. DO NOT CUT THE PADS OFF. It is cochineal scale, a little orange creature is a fuzzy white covering. You may not ever get it all off of the plants, but all it needs is a strong stream of water (e.g., from a hose) to knock off the fuzz and thus the creature. It cannot live without being attached to the plant. If you have a bad infestation, you can use a little soap with the water, but make sure the soap does not have a citrus additive in it. If you hose down these plants a few times a year, you will control the scale. This creature was used by the Indians for the red dye for their yarn. They often reappear after rains, just like weeds!!! arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu wrote: > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tomrinaz@earthlink.net) > 2. GrapeSeek Has Listed Your Site (grapeseek@grapeseek.com) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jeanejack@inficad.com) > 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (casalzer1@cs.com) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (edgarmeya1@hotmail.com) > 6. Penstemon Seeds (MRRAUSCHER@aol.com) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bunyldy@worldnet.att.net) > 8. Re: Penstemon Seeds (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) > 9. RE: Penstemon Seeds (Ursula Miller) > 10. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Marvbevt@aol.com) > 11. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Marvbevy@aol.com) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (slikmouth@aol.com) > 13. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (croft8@juno.com) > 14. Carolina Jamine (manoj.chandran@philips.com) > 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (GanoPat@msn.com) > 16. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Sherryl Stalinski) > 17. Re: Carolina Jamine (Sherryl Stalinski) > 18. tepary beans as a cover mulch? (Jonathan Kandell) > 19. Publication on citrus irrigation (Sue Bass) > 20. Re: Carolina Jamine (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 21. Re:Citrus, watering (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 22. Re:Cochineal Scale (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 23. Re: Palo Brea (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 24. Grafting citrus (Sue Bass) > 25. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Mexvella@aol.com) > 26. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Hillzones@aol.com) > 27. Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers (Sherryl Stalinski) > 28. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (rcdemark@aol.com) > 29. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ClaireASP@aol.com) > 30. currants in Sierra Vista (Linda Drew) > 31. Re: Texas Mountain Laurel (JeanSciFi@aol.com) > 32. RE: Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers (Ursula Miller) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) > From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:53:48 -0600 > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: grapeseek@grapeseek.com > Subject: [Arid_gardener] GrapeSeek Has Listed Your Site > > Thank-you for adding your site to Grapeseek! > > (Either you added it or we liked it enough to add it ourselves.) > > Why is this important to you? > > Quite simply, Grapeseek.com is rapidly becoming the largest internet portal for > grape growers, winemakers and wine enthusiasts in the world and we can > send a considerable amount of traffic (and sales) to your site with a proper listing. > > We have the largest online email groups of grape growers in the world > and we're always expanding our features and services. We also > have a variety of advertising options if you'd like us to feature your site > for more exposure of your site to our audience. > > Please visit http://www.grapeseek.com to ensure your listing is correct. > What we spidered from your site is listed below: > (If you don't like what you see below, please change the meta tags of > your own site!......or ask us for more info about how to do it...we want to help you!) > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -- For Your Records, your listing is as follows: -- > ------------------------------------------------------------ > Site ID : 983224429 > Site Name : ag pruning grapes and bird of paradise > Site Addr : http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-January/002934.html > Category : Grape Growing:Pruning > Sub Category: > Description : [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise > Search Terms: Linda,A,Guy, > ----------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you, again for your GRAPE site! > > Michel White > President, > Grapeseek, Inc. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:34:18 -0700 (MST) > From: jeanejack@inficad.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > We did not plant rye grass this winter. However, we have some kind of darker green and faster growing grass coming up in patches all over. A nursery worker said it is crab grass but it doesn't look like other kinds we see occasionally. The weed killer he recommended isn't helping. Could it be something else and what can we do? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:45:32 -0700 (MST) > From: casalzer1@cs.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > We are moving to the northwest valley in late August from So. California, in particular near the beach. > > I have several varities of ferns such as birdsnest, rabbits foot, etc. and would like to know if they will survive the heat. > > I am looking to put in a drip system in an arbor to house these plants. > > Any suggestions would be gladly appreciated. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 18:02:42 -0700 (MST) > From: edgarmeya1@hotmail.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > When is the best time to prune a sweet accacia and shoestring? We live in Peoria, Az. Thank you, 2/27/01 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > From: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:09:03 EST > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Ursula, > My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East > Valley Tribune. John Chapman forwarded your question to me. I have worked > with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the > Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to > respond to, hope that's OK with you. The response will be in this Saturday's > Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps! > Thanks! > Michelle > > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Ursula, >
My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East >
Valley Tribune.  John Chapman forwarded your question to me.  I have worked >
with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the >
Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to >
respond to, hope that's OK with you.  The response will be in this Saturday's >
Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps! >

Thanks! >
Michelle >

>

> > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary-- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:12:46 -0700 (MST) > From: bunyldy@worldnet.att.net > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > What do I do with narcissus(paperwhites)? > > Several yrs. ago, I had several & after they bloomed, I planted them in outdoor garden. Each yr. they have beautiful long green leaves but no flowers. > This yr. I also have some in pots. > Thank you for responding. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:37:48 EST > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > To: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com, Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > Michelle, > > I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa > Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this > page also? > > Val > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , , > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 05:47:01 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > OK. Here are the responses I received: > > 1. I KNOW they produce seeds because I have baby penstemons in my yard! I > turned to Ms. Judy Mielke's excellent book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes, > in order to answer your question. The tiny black seeds, which she describes > as looking like coarsely ground pepper [I checked my envelopes and yup, that > applies!] will appear if you leave the flower stalks on the plant after > blooming to allow the seed to ripen. You can tell by shaking the blooms on a > piece of paper. When they are ripe, cut the stalks to the basal leaves and > again shake it over a container or paper to collect. Or just sprinkle it > around on the ground. As you can tell by my last note to Sheryl, I don't do > well germinating seeds....I'd prefer to sow them in place and move the > little seedlings around the yard after they've reached a good size to do so. > > 2. one other tip for penstemon seeds, try soaking them in water for 24 > hours > before planting, they need to be scarified in this way because of their > hard seed coats! > > 3. Many penstemon seeds prefer to "age" an extra year. I don't know the > exact reason, but had trouble with P. eatoni but not P. parryi and that > wonderful Mary Irish told me to hold the seeds until the second year > before planting. It worked. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of > PERFLOWERS@aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:38 PM > To: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com; Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > > Michelle, > > I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa > Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this > page also? > > Val > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:20:13 -0700 (MST) > From: Marvbevt@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:29:25 -0700 (MST) > From: Marvbevy@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > How much water does citrus trees need > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:31:10 -0700 (MST) > From: slikmouth@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I have a "desert" landcsape yard with prickly pear cactus that has a white, fungus like growth on many of the leaves. My query is how to eliminate this growth without harming the cacti? Evidently from the coloration, there is 2 different types of cacti & I am interested in organic or non-organic ways of removing the supposed fungal growth. Many thanks to anyone able to help. > > Joe Current > Chandler, Az., 85224 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:10:49 -0700 (MST) > From: croft8@juno.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 14 > From: manoj.chandran@philips.com > To: > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:42:59 -0600 > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > > I recently had Carolina Jasmine planted in my backyard. I selected this plant after going to the local nursery > (Treeland Nursery in Mesa) and talking to the people over there. MYy landscaper also recommended this plant. > The flowers are beautiful, but on surfing the net last night I came to know this plant is EXTREMELY toxic and > can even be fatal if the flower is consumed. Any one has experience with this plant? If it is so toxic, I am amazed > why the nursery did not warn me about it. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran > > --__--__-- > > Message: 15 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:49:48 -0700 (MST) > From: GanoPat@msn.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > How quickly does a Palo Brea tree grow. Should they be fertilized, how often water are they to be watered? I want to plant two of them in my front yard, and they will be very small trees when I plant them. Thank you. Patty > > --__--__-- > > Message: 16 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:57:03 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: slikmouth@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I'm hardly an expert, but most opuntia sp. (prickly pear, cholla, etc) > are pretty indestructable. I'd just remove the infected pads. If the > area affected is too low on the plant, and you want to "save" it, I'd > take some of the healthy, unaffected pads and just replant them. (Remove > the pads, let them dry at least 3-5 days so they can callous up, then > stick them in the ground). From my understanding, after replanting the > pads (just stick them in the ground) wait a week or so and water > lightly. Water lightly until established. > > Long salad tongs or barbecue tongs come in really handy for prickly pear > picking (fruit and pads). > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 17 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:00:51 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: manoj.chandran@philips.com > CC: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > > > If it is so toxic, I am > > amazed > > why the nursery did not warn me about it. > > Because nurseries and landscapers assume you're interested in a species > because of it's visual appeal, not it's culinary uses. Oleanders are > also very poisonous. The advantage: rabbits, deer, etc. leave them > alone. If you have young children, you may want to move it (or put a > 3-4' fence around it), but my dogs never bother my oleander. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 18 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:59:20 -0700 > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: Jonathan Kandell > Subject: [Arid_gardener] tepary beans as a cover mulch? > > Has anyone tried using tepary bean plants (which sprawl all over the > ground) as a mulch, to conserve water for other crops like tomatoes etc...? > > jk > > --__--__-- > > Message: 19 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:14:05 -0700 > From: "Sue Bass" > To: Marvbevy@aol.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Publication on citrus irrigation > > You can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > Marvbevy@aol.com wrote: > > > How much water does citrus trees need > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 20 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:04 EST > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > To: manoj.chandran@philips.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > If you are referring to Carolina Jessamine, yes all parts of the plant are > poisonous if ingested. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 21 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:06 EST > To: MarvBevy@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, watering > > The following website has info on watering citrus: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 22 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:05 EST > To: Slikmouth@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cochineal Scale > > Joe, > The white substance you are seeing on your cactus is caused by an insect, > Cochineal Scale which sucks the juice from the cacti. The white substance you > see is exuded by the insect as protection from predators. The good news is > that a strong spray of water will wash the insect off the cacti. The Indians > used this insect to make red dye. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 23 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:03 EST > To: GanoPat@msn.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Palo Brea > > Patty, > The Palo Brea grows at a moderate rate, and as a desert adapted tree can get > by on very little water once it is established. If you want fast growth then > give it more water, deep water that is. The only fertilizer that should be > used the first year in the ground would be to put fertilizer spikes beneath > the root ball covered with two to three inches of dirt. > Summertime deep watering once a week should give you optimum growth. Once > the tree aproaches the height you desire ( its maximum is 25 feet) you could > increase the irrigation interval to three to four weeks in summer and double > or triple that in the winter. > Check out this website on irrigation: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist > > --__--__-- > > Message: 24 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:45:59 -0700 > From: "Sue Bass" > To: croft8@juno.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting citrus > > You can view a publication on Budding (Grafting) Citrus at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf > The publication states that you can bud any citrus variety onto any other citrus > variety. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > croft8@juno.com wrote: > > > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 25 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:37:25 -0700 (MST) > From: Mexvella@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 26 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 09:06:11 -0700 (MST) > From: Hillzones@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Does anyone know why our citrus trees are losing all their leaves and some of the new buds. We are very worried about them! > An answer will be greatly appreciated, thanks! > > --__--__-- > > Message: 27 > Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 09:43:57 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 28 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:00 -0700 (MST) > From: rcdemark@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > When is the proper time to feed and use Bordeaux fungicide on my Queen Palms? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 29 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:20 -0700 (MST) > From: ClaireASP@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I just recently saw a 10" potted Texas Mountain Laurel at a local Home Depot. It was in bloom, and I thought that the flower was beautiful. I have only seen one of these growing around my area,(No. East Scottsdale), so I am wondering if there is a specific reason for this. Are there certain disadvantages for growing this tree; and is there a reason that I would not want to plant one? You have been very helpful in the past, and I will be anxiously waiting for your comments, once again. In the meantime, I will hold off buying one of these trees. Thanks again for all your help. Claire. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 30 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: babbiejo@juno.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu, thladky@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 19:32:39 -0000 > Subject: [Arid_gardener] currants in Sierra Vista > > Jo Babbie, > > Thank you for your question regarding growing currants in Sierra Vista. > > Your email was forwarded to the Pima County Master Gardeners. If > you have other questions, please feel welcome to send them to: > arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > > or you can call us at (520) 626-5161 > > >Can currant bushes grow successfully in Sierra Vista? > > Currants require cool, moist, partially-shaded locations > they are heavy feeders -- rich compost, acid soil > the first year, soil should not be allowed to dry out > they grow in the cooler parts of the U.S. - do not grow well in South > they are host to one stage of the white pine blister rust > > Given that information, I doubt currants would grow well in Sierra Vista. > > The Yuma Experiment Station has successfully grown heat-adapted > varieties of blackberries, but I have not heard any success with > currants. > > Linda Drew > Pima County Master Gardener > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > --__--__-- > > Message: 31 > From: JeanSciFi@aol.com > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:25:53 EST > To: ClaireASP@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel > > Hi Claire, > > I have two Texas Mountain Laurel growing in my yard. So far they have been > trouble free and do not need much in the way of supplemental water once > established. I hear there is a beetle that chews on the leaves sometimes but > it doesn't seem to be a major problem. If you buy one I suggest that you buy > the largest you can find in a pot as they grow very slow. > > I have the standard Mountain Laurel as well as the mutated one called Silver > Pecos. As the name implies its leaves are silvery instead of just bright > green. After the bloom the plant will put on pods filled with a few red > seeds. The seeds are poisonous but the seed coat are so hard that they pass > thru a digestive system without ill affects. I still would be careful if you > have small kids or puppies. > > Did you notice that the blooms smell like grape koolaide? I'm very fond of > this plant. If you are anywhere near the Maricopa County Extension office > they have some that are mature trees. > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 32 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: "Sherryl Stalinski" , > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:07:17 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > On the buddleia origins: > > My book says the following: Most of the cultivated species originate in > China, but the genus also occurs in Africa, Madagascar, southern Asia and > South America and includes many tropical and subtropical species. > > My book also says that it's really buddleja - "The spelling buddleia is > often seen for this genus (named after seventeeth century English botanist > Adam Buddle) but buddleja is now ruled the correct form." > > Well, it may be RULED the correct form, but all my other references (books > and nurseries) use buddleia. That's probably because we don't live in a > monarchy. > > My book reference above is a huge book called 'BOTANICA - The illustrated > A-Z of over 10,000 garden plants and how to cultivate them". It's published > in the USA but an imprint of Random House Australia. Maybe the RULING comes > from Queen Liz. > > Someone else will have to answer the daisy question. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl > Stalinski > Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:44 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > End of Arid_gardener Digest_______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:23 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:23 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus leaf drop Citrus leaf drop is normal this time of year. Check out TIMELY TIPS on this website. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:22 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel Claire, I have two Texas Mountain Laurels and they put on a beautiful display when they are in bloom. They are a little messy this time of year with the leaf drop and later with the flower drop but I'm willing to put up with that for the floral display. It takes a few years before they really are loaded with blossoms. If you live in the colder part of the valley be sure to protect the young tree by covering it when frost is forcast. As the tree ages it will become hardier. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:21 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:21 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bordeaux use for Bud Rot control Bordeaux can be used at any time for control of Bud Rot on Queen Palms, however the time when Bud Rot is most likely to cause problems on Queen Palms is mid summer through fall after the monsoon rains may have washed the fungi that causes Bud Rot down inside the palm tree. Are you sure that the problem that you have with the palm is caused by Bud Rot? The symptoms of Bud Rot often appear similar to those caused by a nutrient deficiency, namely a manganese deficiency. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 01:14:46 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 20:14:46 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Mountain Laurel CORRECTION CORRECTION to my answer to claireASP about Texas Mountain Laurel. Sorry but I was thinking about the Jacaranda tree when I answered your email. The TML is an excellent shrub or tree, the only negative is that it is very slow growing, I suggest that you buy the largest plant you can find. This tree is not frost tender but very hardy. Perhaps the reason that you do not see more of them is because they are slow growing they are quite expensive. I have two that have been in the ground four years and are only about 3 feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pglopat@cs.com Fri Mar 2 02:01:10 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:01:10 -0700 (MST) From: pglopat@cs.com pglopat@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you give me any information you have on the Argentina Cactus? Is there a picture of it available? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 2 16:30:32 2001 Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 09:30:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Max Sunflowers It performs well in just about any soil, to the best of my knowledge. In general, sunflowers do better sown where you want them to grow...they do not transplant as well as other seedlings. Linda Guy Master Gardener Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From celtic_2@netzero.net Fri Mar 2 16:56:15 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 09:56:15 -0700 (MST) From: celtic_2@netzero.net celtic_2@netzero.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find the name of a vine that I saw out at the Renaissance Fair. It was growing in very poor soil up a trellis and arbor. It had soft green leaves and lilac looking purple flowers. It was very lush looking for a desert plant, and it provided a lot of shade. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Mar 2 21:15:54 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Hello, It sounds like Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia comptoniana). This vine is now in bloom around the valley. I just bought two 1 gallon size plants. I was told to get it in the ground so it will be well rooted before the weather turns warm or it will die. They recommend planting it even in February. You can find information on this plant pg. 316 of Sunsets Western Garden book. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat Mar 3 15:35:21 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 10:35:21 EST Subject: Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Message-ID: --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-xa05.mx.aol.com (rly-xa05.mail.aol.com [172.20.105.74]) by air-xa05.mail.aol.com (v77_r1.21) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Mar 2001 16:18:27 -0500 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-xa05.mx.aol.com (v77_r1.21) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Mar 2001 16:18:00 -0500 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA09473; Fri, 2 Mar 2001 14:17:04 -0700 (MST) Received: from imo-r17.mx.aol.com (imo-r17.mx.aol.com [152.163.225.71]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA09362 for ; Fri, 2 Mar 2001 14:16:35 -0700 (MST) From: JeanSciFi@aol.com Received: from JeanSciFi@aol.com by imo-r17.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v29.5.) id q.3a.118f87bb (4565); Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <3a.118f87bb.27d1678a@aol.com> Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 EST To: celtic_2@netzero.net CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 127 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates Hello, It sounds like Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia comptoniana). This vine is now in bloom around the valley. I just bought two 1 gallon size plants. I was told to get it in the ground so it will be well rooted before the weather turns warm or it will die. They recommend planting it even in February. You can find information on this plant pg. 316 of Sunsets Western Garden book. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary-- From dewbah@aol.com Sat Mar 3 16:55:46 2001 From: dewbah@aol.com (dewbah@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 09:55:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103031655.f23GtkV04861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> how to get rid of weeds on our rock landscape From GSpringer_1@msn.com Sat Mar 3 22:07:48 2001 From: GSpringer_1@msn.com (GSpringer_1@msn.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 15:07:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103032207.f23M7mV07405@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In the fall I planted a Cascalote tree --apparently using too much mulch, and following winter rains, the root ball has sunk significantly. I know the roots are very sensitive to being disturbed as the tree lost all leaves immediately upon being planted. I tried to dig a basin around the trunk, but when it rains it has standing water for several hours. My question is: is it better to leave the tree "as is" (a little too much trunk in the gound) or to try to lift it up and stuff more dirt under it? A few new leaves came back, but not any significant amount. I'm thinking that any movement should be done now before new growth emerges, but I don't know if I'll do the tree more harm by trying to get the bottom two + inches of trunk above ground -- or should just let it be. ALSO: *IF I do lift it out of the ground, will it suffer too much shock to actually move it to another location -- or would it be best for the tree to leave it where it is? I'm expecting to lose leaves, but will new ones come out in March, or will the shock be too much for it to survive? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 02:33:55 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 19:33:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angelonia angustifolia References: Message-ID: <3AA1A993.E732785B@qwest.net> Adam: Upon doing a search of the Internet I came upon the following site: http://www.avantgardensne.com/ Might be a good place to start in your search. Sue Bass Master Gardener Simon554@aol.com wrote: > Dear Arid gardener, Could you tell me where I could find a source for > angelonia angustifolia? > Thankyou, Adam > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From azneet@aol.com Sun Mar 4 03:30:10 2001 From: azneet@aol.com (azneet@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:30:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103040330.f243UAV11182@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an established Mexican Bird of Paradise that I would like to transplant. Is this possible? What time of year is best? Are there any precautions that I should be aware of? Thanks for your response. From cage@c2i2.com Sun Mar 4 14:40:34 2001 From: cage@c2i2.com (cage@c2i2.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 07:40:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103041440.f24EeYV06825@Ag.Arizona.Edu> The trunks of my fruit trees really take a sun burn from the sun.......is it recommended I paint them with white paint? what should I use? From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 17:51:24 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 10:51:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Painting for sunburn protection References: <200103041440.f24EeYV06825@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2809C.8D0B6F0A@qwest.net> Please see the following response in our archives to the question of sunburn on citrus trunks. You can use a whitewash or water-based paint for this purpose. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004896.html Sue Bass Master Gardener cage@c2i2.com wrote: > The trunks of my fruit trees really take a sun burn from the sun.......is it recommended I paint them with white paint? what should I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rkudron@megavision.com Sun Mar 4 19:10:18 2001 From: rkudron@megavision.com (rkudron@megavision.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 12:10:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103041910.f24JAIV05443@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My daughter recently moved to Az from the mid west,and was wondering what kind of flowers she could plant in containers around her house. I am no help to her for Im not sure what would grow in Az since I live here in Nebr.Any suggestions would be helpful. Sincerely, Connie From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 19:31:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 14:31:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mexican Bird of Paradise Message-ID: There is some confusion about the common name of a beautiful shrub, Caesalpinia pulcherrima which has orange red blossoms most all of our warm season. I hear many in the business calling this shrub Mexican Bird of Paradise where its common name is actually Red Bird of Paradise. The shrub Mexican Bird of Paradise, (Caesalpinia mexicana) has yellow blossoms. Which ever one you have the time to transplant would be the same, and now is a good time to do it. I would suggest cutting it back nearly to the ground if it is the Caesalpinia pulcherrima, have the new hole dug first, then dig up as much root as possible, then get it in the ground immediately and watered. If the plant is the Caesalpinia mexicana and has been grown as a tree then it should be cut back only lightly. Photos as well as a description are shown at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 21:12:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 16:12:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Weeds in a desert landscape Message-ID: <4e.1246753e.27d409b5@aol.com> Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a number of publications which addres the weed problem and are available for $1.00 each. This website list http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 22:37:52 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 15:37:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Containers References: <200103041910.f24JAIV05443@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2C3C0.832A2BD4@qwest.net> Connie: Most plants can be grown quite happily in containers. We have two publications, a Flower and Bedding Plant Guide and a Flower and Planting Table which can be viewed on-line. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers This is our listing of publications. You will find a heading called "Flowers" and below it will find publication AZ1100. Your daughter might want to browse the entire list of publications. Information on ordering copies is at the top of the above mentioned screen. Many branches of the Maricopa County Library also have a binder in the General Reference section containing these publications and she is welcome to make copies. She may wish to look over our entire home page at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ where she will find some terrific information that will help her in adapting her gardening to living in the low desert. Our annual Spring Garden Fair will be held on March 31 at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. She can find more information regarding this event on our home page. Sue Bass Master Gardener rkudron@megavision.com wrote: > My daughter recently moved to Az from the mid west,and was wondering what kind of flowers she could plant in containers around her house. I am no help to her for Im not sure what would grow in Az since I live here in Nebr.Any suggestions would be helpful. > Sincerely, Connie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 22:54:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:54:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sweet Acacia, pruning Message-ID: <9e.10e49102.27d421a4@aol.com> I would suggest that you wait to prune the acacias until after they are through blooming because the display is quite beautiful. But do you really need to prune them? Check out this website on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 23:11:43 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:11:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Grass References: <200103010537.WAA29960@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2CBAF.C4AC110A@qwest.net> I would suggest contacting the Arizona Herb Assn. You can get in touch with them by going to our web page under Garden Clubs or by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm which will take you right there. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Mexvella@aol.com wrote: > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chavinda56@aol.com Sun Mar 4 23:35:07 2001 From: chavinda56@aol.com (chavinda56@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 16:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103042335.f24NZ7V05356@Ag.Arizona.Edu> yes i like to now where i can get a orange tree .moro blood orange i look for the trees in the valley and theres nada so can you till me where theres one or two please thank you very much From buzzcutbyamy@aol.com Mon Mar 5 00:22:17 2001 From: buzzcutbyamy@aol.com (buzzcutbyamy@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:22:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103050022.f250MHV10340@Ag.Arizona.Edu> am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. From buzzcutbyamy@aol.com Mon Mar 5 00:23:39 2001 From: buzzcutbyamy@aol.com (buzzcutbyamy@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:23:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103050023.f250NdV10438@Ag.Arizona.Edu> am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 00:40:54 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:40:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Trees References: <200103042335.f24NZ7V05356@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2E096.43922315@qwest.net> You might try Greenfield's Citrus Nursery in Mesa. Here is there web page: http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Their phone number is (480)830-8000i Sue Bass Master Gardener chavinda56@aol.com wrote: > yes i like to now where i can get a orange tree .moro blood orange i look for the trees in the valley and theres nada so can you till me where theres one or two please thank you very much > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 00:47:22 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:47:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert-adapted plants References: <200103050022.f250MHV10340@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2E21A.19346328@qwest.net> We have publications listing various desert-adapted trees, shrubs, ground covers, etc. You can find a listing of publications at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert along with instructions on obtaining copies. You can sometimes find copies at local branches of the Maricopa County Public Library in the General Reference section under Horticulture Publications. You can also view a section of our web page which lists recommended books at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener buzzcutbyamy@aol.com wrote: > am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. > Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From MReed@Dynamsys.com Mon Mar 5 14:41:24 2001 From: MReed@Dynamsys.com (MReed@Dynamsys.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051441.f25EfOV13215@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Me and my husband are going to be laying sod down in a week. My questions is, do we need to put fertilizer down first? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 14:45:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 14:45:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: currants in Sierra Vista Message-ID: Good luck with the raspberries - let us know how they work for you. The 6-10-10 fertilizer should be o.k. I've used manure tea a couple of times. Put a large shovelful of manure into a burlap bag and close securely. Place in a large container and fill with water. Steep for a week. Pour results around plants. THe nutrient will be low, perhaps 2-2-2. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: isolde g babbie >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: currants in Sierra Vista >Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 17:11:00 -0700 > >since none of the local gardenshops even carry currants it should have >given me an indication though the western garden book did say grows in >all zones but grows best in zones 1-6. am ttrying to talk my daughteer in >boise, ID to grow some for me. while i was at it, i got some bare root >rasperries instead. it says to feed with manure or 510-5 fertilizer which >i could not find, the closest i could come was 6-10-10. would manure tea >be alright also-what appr strength/proportion? appreciate your help. >thanks, jo b. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From todd.l.biggs@intel.com Mon Mar 5 17:04:10 2001 From: todd.l.biggs@intel.com (todd.l.biggs@intel.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 10:04:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051704.f25H4AV14371@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 6 (Neo)dypsis decaryi (triangle palms) in my front yard. There are three an either side of a walkway leading to the front door on teh north side of teh house. The two up near the home are doing pretty well (mostly shaded). All of the others look to be suffering> I have hear soil PH, salt, overwatering, and shock from sunlight. The symptoms are teh fronds are slowing dying back. They have been in the ground for ~10months and they have each produced several new fronds. What I noticed is that the new fronds started off growing long before opening up and gradualy got shorter and shorter. Two of the trees are now about 1ft tall due to this 'dying back'. Any suggestions on how to revive them or should I pull and replce them? From Krulich@aol.com Mon Mar 5 17:34:07 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:34:07 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafted citrus buds still green Message-ID: <3f.1183b7f6.27d5280f@aol.com> I grafted some citrus buds 2 weeks ago and I took the tape off today to see how they are doing. They are still green. According to publication az1146, it says to remove the tape in 2 to 3 weeks and if the bud is green it is alive. Since it's been 2 weeks and they are still alive, should I put the tape back on and wait for the buds to push through when they sprout, or should I leave the tape off? Thanks, Tom From molinas@aol.com Mon Mar 5 18:21:31 2001 From: molinas@aol.com (molinas@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:21:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051821.f25ILVV03269@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I buy a small composter? I live in Mesa. From bbrent6@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 19:28:44 2001 From: bbrent6@qwest.net (bbrent6@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:28:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051928.f25JSiV18974@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I get a community garden started near downtown phoenix, where do I go for funding, etc. Thank you for your time. I look forward to seeing you at the next Master Gardner application workshop, as I will be applying. Thanks again Brent Bessette 602-712-1606 From Nadinemiele@cs.com Mon Mar 5 21:57:38 2001 From: Nadinemiele@cs.com (Nadinemiele@cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:57:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103052157.f25LvcV27155@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just bought a house with an established rose garden. I know little about growing roses, and want an organic rose food that is not toxic to adjacent food plants (veggies etc.). Can you recommend a product? If possible, I would like a product that I can apply once a year. Also , I would appreciate any basic information on roses you can send me. Thank you, Nadine Miele From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:17:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:17:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sod, soil prep Message-ID: <14.1086d663.27d56a77@aol.com> It is too late to put down fertilizer now ,but I highly recommend that you rototill in about 3 inches of mulch before laying the sod. It is most important that the soil is prepared properly in order to give the turf the best start possible. Check out this website about turf: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:17:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:17:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Neodypsis decaryi (Triangle Palm ) Message-ID: <4a.1250a5e3.27d56a7b@aol.com> The Neodypsis decaryi is listed in Western Garden Book as being suitable for their zones 20 thru 24 which represents the coastal area of California from Santa Barbara to Mexico. I suspect that it is just too hot and arid here in the low desert of Arizona. Check out this website on palm care: Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:34:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:34:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rose Fertilizer Message-ID: Nadine, An excellent organic rose fertilizer is Hickman's Rose Food available at Gardeners World, A& P Nursery, and West Valley Rose Society as well as others. I'm sorry but there isn't anything available that will last a whole year on roses. Roses are very hungary plants and should be fed once every 6 weeks except for Nov. and Dec. I'm including a copy of an article that was published in the Republic recently on planting and pruning roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian From dancris@newman.com Tue Mar 6 03:33:24 2001 From: dancris@newman.com (dancris@newman.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103060333.f263XOV13119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello from South Tempe! I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had always understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking out $20 for a plant. Thanks so much! Shelley Newman email: newman@dancris.com From S2@wvcnet.com Tue Mar 6 14:33:01 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 07:33:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Shelley, Why don't you plant a buddleia instead? They are acclamated to our climate, only need enough water to maintain growth, and boast beautiful lilac flowers (that look almost exactly like lilacs) on a beautiful 6 foot fountain of a perennial shrub. Best news: I just picked up a gallon buddleia at Home Depot for $3.95. -----Original Message----- From: dancris@newman.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/5/2001 8:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello from South Tempe! I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had always understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking out $20 for a plant. Thanks so much! Shelley Newman email: newman@dancris.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 14:48:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 14:48:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lilacs in Tempe Message-ID: Most lilacs bloom best in regions with decidedly chilly winters, but some do well with only light winter chill. I checked the Sunset Garden Book and did not find any lilacs for zone 13 (the Phoenix area). Here in Tucson (zone 12) we do grow Persian lilac successfully. Howver, we have more winter chill than Phoenix. That being said, the web site is impressive and new cultivars are being developed all the time. In skimming the web page, however, I didn't see any that looked like they could handle little to no chill in winter and 100+ in summer. Which lilac were you considering? Buddleia (butterfly bush) is better suited to our climate and resembles lilac. B. davidii is commonly called summer lilac. You may wat to look at it. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dancris@newman.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) > >Hello from South Tempe! > >I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had >always >understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. >Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather >climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International >Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). > >Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well >in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking >out $20 >for a plant. > >Thanks so much! > >Shelley Newman > >email: newman@dancris.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From saz621@primenet.com Tue Mar 6 15:32:51 2001 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:32:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103051704.f25H4AV14371@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA50323.F8757AF@primenet.com> Todd, We had a Neodypsis decaryi (now Dypsis decaryi I think) in our yard for a few years. It never did any better than what you describe. Our conclusion was a combination of heat and soil, but we never really pursued it much beyond that. We pulled it out. Good luck, Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 6 17:02:56 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:02:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lilacs in Tempe References: Message-ID: <001001c0a65f$74134de0$cf53530c@j0r9501> We have Persian lilacs in Phoenix that bloom each year. See dancris@newman.com for a post on a previous thread. -Olin > >From: dancris@newman.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) > > > >Hello from South Tempe! > > > >I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had > >always > >understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. > >Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather > >climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International > >Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). > > > >Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well > >in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking > >out $20 > >for a plant. > > > >Thanks so much! > > > >Shelley Newman > > > >email: newman@dancris.com > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DTopham1@aol.com Tue Mar 6 17:54:19 2001 From: DTopham1@aol.com (DTopham1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:54:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell Peppers Message-ID: <90.110f1a99.27d67e4b@aol.com> --part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County. I have tried growing sweet/bell peppers for 2 years now without much success. The first year they were next to hot peppers and must have cross pollinated because neither were ever very tasty. About a year ago I planted a new crop and they have only produced peppers with tough skins and thin meat. They have all been slightly bitter and never get particularly large. Any suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each other without cross pollination problems? --part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County.  
I have tried growing sweet/bell peppers for 2 years now without much success.
 The first year they were next to hot peppers and must have cross pollinated
because neither were ever very tasty.  About a year ago I planted a new crop
and they have only produced peppers with tough skins and thin meat.  They
have all been slightly bitter and never get particularly large.  Any
suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each
other without cross pollination problems?

--part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 6 18:24:32 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:24:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell Peppers References: <90.110f1a99.27d67e4b@aol.com> Message-ID: <001801c0a66a$b763f760$cd51530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County. >... >... Any > suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each > other without cross pollination problems? Try Gypsy. It isn't a California-type of bell but it is a sweet pepper and produces very well. Cross-pollination only affects the seed - not the fruit. -Olin From ej10817@goodnet.com Tue Mar 6 19:41:28 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:41:28 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell peppers Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010306113627.03a9e480@127.0.0.1> Re the discussion on bell peppers, I don't have trouble growing them and they produce pretty well but don't get very big. What is interesting is that they are perennial here in the low desert and I even get some small ones in winter. They are in a warm, protected spot. I bought one in Cottonwood that was locally grown and it is a long skinny type which turns yellow, don't know what kind it is. I plan to grow several types this year including a sweet frying type. I like the multiplying onions too but there again, they don't get very big for me. Is anyone else having that problem? Happy gardening Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From Laeborden1@aol.com Tue Mar 6 18:52:57 2001 From: Laeborden1@aol.com (Laeborden1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:52:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103061852.f26IqvV21132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you link me with a Phoenix pond group or club? We are having trouble with our pond plants, the water, etc. Have been unsuccessful at locating a website - or group. Many thanks. From captivespirit@mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 19:03:15 2001 From: captivespirit@mindspring.com (Kathleen Wattle) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:03:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Best citrus choices for containers Message-ID: <002301c0a670$1a51f2a0$1dcf56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live in the far northeast valley (2100'+) where there is more frost = likelihood and would still like to have some citrus in containers so I = can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, lemon, tangerine, or = lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is the minimum = size container I could use & still get some fruit?=20 Are any varieties (including those listed above & navels & grapefuit) = suited to inground planting here without having to go through hurdles to = do frost protection? If I could plant inground, I'd want a small tree so = it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous lush natural = mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is one small = section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge effect = but all the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it doesn't seem = a likely option. Also if I did plant inground, we have both wash & = higher areas on our land - which would be best for a planting site? Any input will be appreciated. Thank you, Kathleen W ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I live in the far northeast valley = (2100'+) where=20 there is more frost likelihood and would still like to have some citrus = in=20 containers so I can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, = lemon,=20 tangerine, or lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is = the=20 minimum size container I could use & still get some fruit? =
 
Are any varieties (including those = listed above=20 & navels & grapefuit) suited to inground planting here without = having to=20 go through hurdles to do frost protection? If I could plant inground, = I'd want a=20 small tree so it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous = lush=20 natural mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is = one small=20 section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge effect = but all=20 the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it doesn't seem a = likely=20 option.  Also if I did plant inground, we have both wash & = higher areas=20 on our land - which would be best for a planting site?
 
Any input will be = appreciated.
 
Thank you,
 
Kathleen = W
------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Mar 6 19:22:53 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103061852.f26IqvV21132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA5390D.6160D080@email.sps.mot.com> Hi! Check out this site: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/pond/ Alan Laeborden1@aol.com wrote: > Can you link me with a Phoenix pond group or club? We are having trouble with our pond plants, the water, etc. Have been unsuccessful at locating a website - or group. Many thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From candijet1@home.com Tue Mar 6 23:41:44 2001 From: candijet1@home.com (candijet1@home.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 16:41:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103062341.f26NfiV29218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have brown, yellow circles on my grass. It's turf grass. How do I get rid of these circles and what are they? thank you From ljmattson2000@yahoo.com Wed Mar 7 19:36:19 2001 From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com (ljmattson2000@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:36:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103071936.f27JaIV06301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson From S2@wvcnet.com Wed Mar 7 20:01:34 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:01:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Jerry, If your plant still has green stems (I've noticed it's easy to tell with a simple light hose-down) leave it alone. It may take another year for the transplant to become re-established and start blooming again, especially if you purchased bare-root plants. Give it occasional supplemental water (every 3-4 weeks or so) for the first year until it establishes, and that's all. Ocotillos are drought-deciduous, so they grow and lose leave up to 3-4 times per year, and each plant will leaf up independently depending on moisture. They usually don't leaf up in the spring until after bloom from my experience, and bloom time is normally mid march through late April. I've seen them blooming early this year in the wild, but it still is pretty early for them. Even if yours doesn't leaf up when others around have, that doesn't necessarily mean the plant is dead. Natives usually don't respond well to our efforts to "help them along". -----Original Message----- From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/7/2001 12:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From S2@wvcnet.com Wed Mar 7 20:09:34 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:09:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: more on your ocotillo Message-ID: Jerry, I just re-read your question. If you planted your ocotillo last June, I'd guess that it will spring into action and leaf up by this summer's monsoons, and you may get blooms this spring yet but it may also decide to wait for next spring to bloom (even though they gain/lose leaves several times a year, they only bloom in the spring). Sounds like the plant is alive and fine, though. Be patient, it will be fine. -----Original Message----- From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/7/2001 12:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Mar 7 20:18:34 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:18:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo's References: <200103071936.f27JaIV06301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA6979A.7490C955@email.sps.mot.com> Jerry, >From my experience, when I first planted my two Ocotillo's it took over a year for them to get established and start putting out leaves and blooms. The fact that the stems are green is a good thing. I think it you just give it a little more time to settle in it will come through for you. Mine always loose their leaves in the winter. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ljmattson2000@yahoo.com wrote: > Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From annesullivan@home.com Wed Mar 7 20:45:32 2001 From: annesullivan@home.com (annesullivan@home.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103072045.f27KjWV23569@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the best way to prepare a garden if you have irrigation rather than a sprinkler system? For example, is it better to have it above ground with railroad ties as borders to keep the irrigation from washing away the seeds or young plants? Thanks. From raykohout@aol.com Wed Mar 7 21:13:19 2001 From: raykohout@aol.com (raykohout@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 14:13:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103072113.f27LDJV01482@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had a Ficus tree in my living room for many years and it was fine. In the last few days, some leaves turn yellow and drop off (about 20 at a time each day). Can you tell me the reason for this and what I can do to fix the condition? From jennaz31@aol.com Thu Mar 8 00:04:17 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:04:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? Thank you Jenn From tm9hlz4az@swlink.net Thu Mar 8 02:16:10 2001 From: tm9hlz4az@swlink.net (tm9hlz4az@swlink.net) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:16:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080216.f282GAV02295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 10'saguaro that was planted in my front yard about 10 years ago. Last year it had only one flower blossom. This cactus has always had a very light green color while other cacti nearby look much darker green. Any cause for concern?? Would fertilizer or ironite be appropriate ?? Thanks for your help. From lenisueaz@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:22:47 2001 From: lenisueaz@aol.com (lenisueaz@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:22:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080222.f282MlV03432@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you give me the Phone number or e-mail address for Larry Bell. I am in need of an e-mail address for Donovan's Roses in Shreveport, La. and I think he is the one who would have this information. I also would like the e-mail address for the American Rose Soceity. I am specifically looking for a Sutters Gold climbing rose but so far am unable to locate it. Any suggestions on where it can be found? Thank you, Sue From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:45:16 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:45:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ficus benjamina droping leaves Message-ID: <86.7d2ce3c.27d84c3c@aol.com> The Ficus benjamina will drop its leaves if it has been moved or because of a change in temperature. Stress of some kind such as over or under watering will also cause it to lose its leaves as will too much fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:54:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:54:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Larry Bell's email address Message-ID: <55.1226bc6e.27d84e5d@aol.com> lmpaBell@yahoo.com American Rose Society http://www.ars.org/ From manoj.chandran@philips.com Thu Mar 8 03:30:28 2001 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com (manoj.chandran@philips.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 04:30:28 +0100 Subject: [Arid_gardener] arabian jasmine Message-ID: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will be very helpful. Thanks. -Manoj From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 04:05:18 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 21:05:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian Jasmine References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> I do not have experience growing jasmine, however, here is what the Sunset Western Garden book has to say about the plant. In general, all plants in Jasmine family require full sun or partial shade and the large-leafed varieties need water the most. Jasmines thrive in regular garden soil and need frequent pinching and shaping to control growth. What type of soil is your Jasmine growing in? Is it planted in the ground? Is it growing in amended soil? It probably wouldn't be too happy in a heavy clay soil. The book states that Arabian Jasmine can be grown in Sunset zone 13, which includes Phoenix. Perhaps it hasn't had enough humidity despite the more frequent rainy days we have been having? Maybe someone else can comment on this. It is grown in Hawaii as it is a favorite flower in leis, so I would imagine it is happiest in a moist climate. We can sometimes create areas with a little more humidity by grouping plants. This plant also can be grown in a container. Hopefully another list member who has grown this plant can comment further. Sue Bass Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 8 15:49:20 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 08:49:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA7AA00.9B251A0F@email.sps.mot.com> Jenn, I'm confused by what you stated below. If the back patio recieve sun early in the morning and late in the afternoon, wouldn't that be the North side of your house? Anyway, my house faces the same way as yours if that is the case. You might want to go look at my website and see some of the plants I plant on the north side. Especially underneath the patio. Many house plants do wonderful in this area. Also, I have some roses that do well on this side. Generally they are lighter colored roses that do well in shade. The roses I have their are Tropicana, Snowbird, Crepscule, Loetta Liggett, and Reine des Violettes, and Nicole. I have also successfully grown Brugmansia (In full shade) and the house plant, Spider Plant here as well. Also, Wandering Jew has donw well here along with Snap Dragons that reseed theirself, and some mini-roses. I suspect that Lantana might do well here too, although the blooms would not be as good as full sun. Just some ideas, things for you to try. I think the Blue Hibiscus would probably be ok there as well. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. > > I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? > > Thank you > Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 8 16:08:04 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103080222.f282MlV03432@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA7AE64.32DEBE34@email.sps.mot.com> Hi, I do not have a email address, but here is contact info for Donovan's Roses: Donovan's Roses, P. O. Box 37800, Shreveport, LA 71133-7800; (318) 861-6693 Also, Sutters Gold should be available in the following places: Arena Rose Co.*** PO Box 3096 Paso Robles, California 93447-3096 888-466-7434 (Information) 805-227-4095 (Fax) 888-466-7434 (Ordering) http://www.arenaroses.com (***one of my favorite places to order bareroot roses from, big and healthy!) Regan Nursery 4268 Decoto Road Fremont, California 94555 United States 510-797-3222 (Information) 510-793-5408 (Fax) 800-249-4680 (Ordering) http://www.regannursery.com (they've stopped shipping for this season) Roseglen Gardens Naples, Florida 34114 941-775-4489 (Information) RoseGlenGD@aol.com Hope this helps! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! lenisueaz@aol.com wrote: > Can you give me the Phone number or e-mail address for Larry Bell. I am in need of an e-mail address for Donovan's Roses in Shreveport, La. and I think he is the one who would have this information. I also would like the e-mail address for the American Rose Soceity. I am specifically looking for a Sutters Gold climbing rose but so far am unable to locate it. Any suggestions on where it can be found? Thank you, Sue > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 8 16:44:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 1) oleander move, 2) dry terra cotta inside 3) Penstemon seeds References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> Hi fellow flowerfolk, 1) I think I've figured out that the problem with my oleanders is poor drainage. I tried leaching them a couple of times and it took days for the soil to dry out. They're looking pretty sad... but they're still young. Is it worth trying to transplant them to a better area? 2) I just repotted a bunch of houseplants into some great terra cotta wall hanging pots I picked up in Tubac. The clay seems to just suck the moisture right out of the soil and the soil dries hard by the next day. Should I try lining the pots (but not the drainage holes) with something to keep the moisture in or try going with a heavy potting soil? I don't want to have to water these things every day! 3) I figured I'd report my long-overdue victory with germinating penstemon seeds. I had tried just planting, cold stratifying, and soaking without luck. I finally took my last seeds and soaked them in peroxide for 6-8 hours and they're finally germinating. I'm guessing the cold stratify/peroxide combo is what finally got through that hard seed coat. The seeds are too small at least for me to try scarifying. Just thought I'd share. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From GEMolumby@aol.com Thu Mar 8 16:55:12 2001 From: GEMolumby@aol.com (GEMolumby@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:55:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103081655.f28GtCV00081@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have quite a few oranges falling off our trees and they have a black circle around where the stem was. It looks like mold. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 17:01:19 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:01:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against common wisdom, no? jk From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 8 17:45:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:45:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual > (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing > temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This > table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 > night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says > you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against > common wisdom, no? As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out (to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the table would know for certain if the two were intended to be the same. But I would agree that the 60s are a bit cool for setting out pepper plants. I have transplanted peppers in February and found they don't grow very much until the days are warmer in March so that there is little to be gained by setting them out too early. But tomatoes will continue to grow right away planted in February and protected from frost. -Olin From bws@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 18:48:53 2001 From: bws@qwest.net (bws@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103081848.f28ImrV26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> It was May of last year I last communicated with Catht Rymer At that time she helped me bring my four citrus trees back to life after I tried to kill them with an over abundace of fertlizer. They have come back to life and look very good except for the Grape fruit tree. It has yellow leaves. Is this normal. Should I or should I not be doing something. I'd like to send you a digital photo I took this morning to show you what the leaves look like. Cathy Rymer's e-mail address was returned as undeliverable. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 18:51:31 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 11:51:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308114849.00cba100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 10:45 AM 3/8/01 -0700, olin wrote: >As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the >transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out >(to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the I think you might have solved the mystery Olin, though you'd think the two would be equivalent. After all, the seedling is going to be growing in the ground just like it was inside. Then, the questions remains, what is the "minimum" day/night soil temperatures for setting out tomatoes and peppers? jk From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu Mar 8 20:15:12 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 12:15:12 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> At 10:45 AM 3/8/01 -0700, you wrote: >----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > > > Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual > > (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing > > temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This > > table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 > > night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says > > you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against > > common wisdom, no? > >As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the >transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out >(to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the >table would know for certain if the two were intended to be the same. But I >would agree that the 60s are a bit cool for setting out pepper plants. I >have transplanted peppers in February and found they don't grow very much >until the days are warmer in March so that there is little to be gained by >setting them out too early. But tomatoes will continue to grow right away >planted in February and protected from frost. -Olin I know that is probably right for pepper transplants but for me, peppers are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off all winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even the chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised beds at the end of my house. Pat (aka weird Pat) >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 8 20:31:09 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat" > ... for me, peppers > are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off all > winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only > occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even the > chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't > produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this > year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised > beds at the end of my house. My Caribbean Red Habeneros were in the second year and succumbed to frost this winter (unprotected). But the chiltepines (also unprotected) are putting out new leaves. -Olin From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu Mar 8 21:45:50 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 13:45:50 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> At 01:31 PM 3/8/01 -0700, you wrote: >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Pat" > > ... for me, peppers > > are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off >all > > winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only > > occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even >the > > chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't > > produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this > > year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised > > beds at the end of my house. > >My Caribbean Red Habeneros were in the second year and succumbed to frost >this winter (unprotected). But the chiltepines (also unprotected) are >putting out new leaves. -Olin I am curious about the row covers I have heard about..does anyone on this list have any experience with them? I have been using old sheets but then it is necessary to go out and take them off. I think with row covers, it's not necessary to remove them...or am I mistaken? Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening For great service and prices, please visit this site for all your travel needs: http://www.kolb.globaltravel.com From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 21:30:08 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 14:30:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] dry dust mulching In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Anyone have any experience with mulching with dry dirt instead of hay etc? I've read it's just as effective to put a few inches of dirt atop your good soil as it to use other stuff. jk From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:54:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:54:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangors Located! Message-ID: <3AA81BB8.A853B3D2@qwest.net> Dr. Wright called me today [Thursday] to advise that Foothills Nursery in Yuma can get you a 15-gal specimen for $39. Unfortunately, he was on the road and did not have the PN with him; you'll have to call directory assistance. If you call before noon tomorrow you will make this week's order. The trees are just about ready to be reboxed into 24" containers, and will certainly be more expensive then. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:55:05 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:55:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian jasmine [Jasmine sambac] References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA81BD9.3843B319@qwest.net> As a footnote to Sue's reply, the "jasmine" that is most often grown and does very well in Phoenix is star jasmine that is a different genus, trachelospermum jasminoides. Linda Guy Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:55:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian jasmine [Jasmine sambac] References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA81BE8.96E7CA91@qwest.net> As a footnote to Sue's reply, the "jasmine" that is most often grown and does very well in Phoenix is star jasmine that is a different genus, trachelospermum jasminoides. Linda Guy Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 9 00:45:57 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Floating Row Covers References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <006101c0a832$60e00860$a253530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat" > I am curious about the row covers I have heard about..does anyone on this > list have any experience with them? I have been using old sheets but then > it is necessary to go out and take them off. I think with row covers, it's > not necessary to remove them...or am I mistaken? I use floating row covers often. The covers are not reliable for frost protection - only offer about 4 deg of protection according to the manufacturers. The best use for me is to protect newly planted seeds from birds and to protect seedlings from insects and birds. For non-fruiting vegetables that do not need insect pollination, the covers do not need to be removed. I usually remove the covers when the plants are large enough to lay out drip tapes and apply mulch. At this stage most plants are no longer attractive to birds and insects don't seem to be a serious problem. Lettuce is an exception - the cover stays on because birds are always a problem with lettuce. Olin From tcarillon@hotmail.com Fri Mar 9 04:11:36 2001 From: tcarillon@hotmail.com (tcarillon@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:11:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103090411.f294BaV20894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have enjoyed the March and April garden tours I have gone on in the past years; however, it is always hard to get the information as to when and which tours are scheduled. Sometimes I'll see it in the Republic, other times in Phoenix Home and Garden, etc. I'm not talking about the expensive Garden Conservancy tours - just the local garden clubs,etc. How can I find out more about these? From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri Mar 9 04:43:06 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 23:43:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <66.cce0466.27d9b95a@aol.com> The 6th annual Valley of the Sun Gardeners Tour is Saturday, March 31, from 10 to 4 pm. There will be 7 gardens on the tour (2 of them are front yards only). Four of the yards are located in Central Phoenix, one on 32nd St & Shea, one at 36th St & Thunderbird and the last at 89th Way and Thunderbird. Both Baker Nursery and Southwest Gardener are selling tickets (I just took them this afternoon). Tickets are $5.00 for all 7 gardens. Two Rose Clubs are having tours the middle of April. As far as I know, those are the only tours put on by local garden clubs this year. Val From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 9 04:21:02 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:21:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Patio Garden In-Reply-To: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Jenn - I also like a colorful patio and got tired of the annual plantings. So I decided to plant some heat loving shrubs in larger pots on the patio. One shrub that works out very well is the bougainvillea. There are several shrubby types in various colors that do really well in pots and they have such gorgeous colors!!! Also, you can train them into standards to get some height with color on the patio. (You can buy them as standards but they're easy to train yourself as long as you buy one with a good main stem that becomes the 'trunk'.) I also have a pomegranate bush in a pot which is nice and eventually will have orange flowers. In the foreground I am currently trying to grow lantana in pots. That way - with the bougainvillea standards, the medium height bougainvillea bushes and the lantana I should have various levels of color. (Of course, there is a lot of pruning involved with these bushes, but a snip here and a snip there goes a long way. Lots of watering, too, in the summer - usually every other day. Once or twice a week during the rest of the year.) I've also planted a couple of small oleanders in pots. I'm not sure how that will work out but I'm giving it a try. I tried vinca, which is one of my favorite flowers out here. But it didn't work in pots because they started looking 'leggy' even though the ones in the ground in my yard are not leggy at all -- in fact, the ground ones are very full and bushy. That may be because the sheer numbers in the yard 'fill out' the area, while less of them in pots don't fill out as well. I'm guessing at that. I just know that vincas in pots didn't do the trick for me. So my solution to having a colorful patio was to use traditional bush-type plants and keep them in pots. So far, it looks nice. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jennaz31@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:04 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? Thank you Jenn _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 9 04:21:15 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:21:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Terra Cotta Pots Drying Out In-Reply-To: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - I have given up on terra cotta pots here in the dry heat. I had lots of them and treated tbe pots with sealers that can be bought in nurseries and home stores. It didn't work. I didn't think to line them so that could be worth a try. The only plants that I keep in terra cotta pots now are cacti. Thanks for the information on the penstemon seeds. That was my question originally. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:45 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] 1) oleander move, 2) dry terra cotta inside 3) Penstemon seeds Hi fellow flowerfolk, 1) I think I've figured out that the problem with my oleanders is poor drainage. I tried leaching them a couple of times and it took days for the soil to dry out. They're looking pretty sad... but they're still young. Is it worth trying to transplant them to a better area? 2) I just repotted a bunch of houseplants into some great terra cotta wall hanging pots I picked up in Tubac. The clay seems to just suck the moisture right out of the soil and the soil dries hard by the next day. Should I try lining the pots (but not the drainage holes) with something to keep the moisture in or try going with a heavy potting soil? I don't want to have to water these things every day! 3) I figured I'd report my long-overdue victory with germinating penstemon seeds. I had tried just planting, cold stratifying, and soaking without luck. I finally took my last seeds and soaked them in peroxide for 6-8 hours and they're finally germinating. I'm guessing the cold stratify/peroxide combo is what finally got through that hard seed coat. The seeds are too small at least for me to try scarifying. Just thought I'd share. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gmaboat@earthlink.net Fri Mar 9 05:47:24 2001 From: gmaboat@earthlink.net (gmaboat@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 22:47:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103090547.f295lOV05171@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a new house and have planted all low-water use desert plants. Our drip irrigation system is in and ready to go (when the rain stops!) but we don't know how to set it up (ie; how many gallons per hour, etc.) Can you give us some general guidelines? Our trees include palo verde and Brazilian pepper and the shrubs are mostly jasmine and yucca. Thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 14:16:47 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:16:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Terra Cotta solutions & oleander in containers References: Message-ID: <3AA8E5CF.5152F51@AuroraNow.org> Thanks Ursula, Another list member said she's had luck lining the pots with plastic. I'm going to repot mine this weekend and try some industrial plastic wrap I have (leaving the drain hole open of course). She said she's had little luck with the waterproof sealer--it helps, but not enough. By the way, my way of dealing with the drain hold on pots that hang on the wall has been to cut a small piece of sponge and stick it in the hole (which absorbs the excess then dries out without dripping down the wall). It works like a charm. I have some large outdoor containers I should do the same interior plastic wrap with, but that will be a project! Re: dwarf oleanders in containers. I've actually seen standard size oleanders in large containers (36") do quite well, as well as the dwarfs so yours should be fine. Judging from my in the ground experience, the trick might be good drainage. (I had a small texas ranger in a container with regular potting soil and it obviously was too moist for it and I ended up having to replant it in the ground). I'm thinking of digging up my suffering dwarf oleanders and putting them in containers with a well draining cactus/succulent soil mix and see if I can't get them to bounce back before I put them back in the ground in another spot. Ironically, the Western Garden Book says oleanders can tolerate poor drainage which has not been my experience at all. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 14:24:22 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:24:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Dogs! References: Message-ID: <3AA8E796.E4B2AACC@AuroraNow.org> Please share your experience: My dogs keep eating everything I plant in "their" yard (including ocotillo and existing cholla!). It seems nothing shy of a 3 ply, 3 foot fence of chicken wire protects my young trees and shrubs. Since we *do* share our backyard with these spoiled mutts (blame my spouse and offspring) I *would* like to SEE what I plant instead of a yard dotted with chicken wire cylinders. Anyone try any creative home remedy deterrants with luck? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From acook7419@aol.com Fri Mar 9 14:28:28 2001 From: acook7419@aol.com (acook7419@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:28:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103091428.f29ESSV26396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like the best way to transplant a Saguaro Cactus and the probability of survival. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 9 14:58:20 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 14:58:20 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: saguaro cactus transplanting Message-ID: >From: acook7419@aol.com >Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:28:28 -0700 (MST) > >I would like the best way to transplant a Saguaro Cactus and the >probability of survival. > >_______________________________________________ How Do I Move A Saguaro? (reprinted from the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum Botany Helpline) If you are moving a saguaro on your own property, no legal tag is required. However, if you want to move a saguaro from someone else's property to yours, a native plant tag issued by the Arizona Department of Agriculture is required, along with the landowner's written permission. A 6-foot tall saguaro can weigh several hundred pounds and requires a few people to move it safely. First, mark the south side of the plant so it will be replanted in the original orientation. Use lengths of old garden hose to wrap around the saguaro - these act as handles. Dig out the plant by digging a donut-shaped hole around it, starting at least 12-18 inches from the base. Use a saw to cut the larger roots. Anchoring roots go straight down, so undercut about 2 feet deep, then gently lay the plant down. If it is not planted immediately, cover to protect from sunburn. Use a saw and pruners to neatly cut all roots to minimize the exposed wounds. Replant the saguaro at the same depth as it was originally growing. Fill in with sandy soil and tamp in well. Water after a couple of weeks or so and continue to water every few weeks. An armless saguaro, well planted, should not require staking. Large rocks at the base can help stabilize the plant if it becomes unsteady. Watch for sunburning and cover the saguaro with shade cloth if needed. There's a large saguaro in my yard that fell down after the last storm. What should I do? You have three options (assuming the plant is 8-10 feet tall). It can be left in place and you can enjoy the natural decay cycle unfold over the next several weeks. The saguaro can be cut up into small, 1-2 foot-long sections and disposed of like other landscape waste. If it is unbroken and the roots are not torn away from the plant's base, it may be possible to upright and replant it. This procedure requires machinery and careful planning. Contact a landscape professional for help. -------- I believe the Desert Botanical Garden has excellent advice (and success) moving saguaro. Give them a call. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 15:47:18 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 08:47:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: transplanting saguaro References: <200103091428.f29ESSV26396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA8FB06.C7EB0A0B@AuroraNow.org> The younger the cactus, the greater the odds of survival. Horticulturalists at the ASDM warn that if you acquire a saguaro over 4 feet, you're running about 50/50 odds that you've basically purchased a dying cactus (nurseries may guarantee them for a year--but they can take up to 10 years to die). You're just transplanting, so your odds are much better. It's important to remember that cactus roots grow out about as wide as the cactus is tall, so to provide optimum odds for a healthy transplant, dig out in a diameter equal to the cactus height, and deep enough to get as much of the root system as possible. Even a small cactus this size can weigh a LOT so be sure to have plenty of help. (Linda notes the same thing, and her instructions for handling are great) Late spring is the optimal time to transplant any succulent as they need the summer heat to establish a sound root system. Provide light supplemental waterings for the first couple years until the cactus re-establishes (every 3-4 weeks). I would suggest waiting until these last rains move out as cacti do best in warm, dry soil the first couple weeks after transplanting (which Linda also noted) -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 16:06:01 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:06:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Rabbits! References: <3AA8E796.E4B2AACC@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AA8FF69.F1BE5CDA@AuroraNow.org> Ok, I'm expanding my earlier request to ideas on deterring rabbits (move them into the back with the dogs?!). I love having so many cottontails and jacks around the property--but I just walked outside and half of my newly planted iceplants are de-flowered and leaf munched. Grrrr! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From PatsiB@juno.com Fri Mar 9 15:59:58 2001 From: PatsiB@juno.com (PatsiB@juno.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 08:59:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103091559.f29FxwV13528@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What type of white paint do you use for trunks of citrus trees. Orange, lemon, grapefruit & tangerine trees in Mesa. From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 16:46:54 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 09:46:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] white paint References: <200103091559.f29FxwV13528@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA908FE.96C5871D@AuroraNow.org> White latex paint, diluted 50% with water is all you need, although some nurseries and garden centers sell trunk paint (seems silly to me). -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 9 17:20:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 12:20:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation Message-ID: <9.120fce72.27da6ae7@aol.com> Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation, you will find answers to your questions there at : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 9 17:36:41 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 10:36:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Rabbits! In-Reply-To: <3AA8FF69.F1BE5CDA@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - Go to this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in rabbits. You'll find LOTS of previous discussions about trying to deal with these critters. So far, I've found only two things that work: fencing and using plants that rabbits don't eat. (Actually my husband keeps reminding me that there is a third method, but we won't mention that final solution one.) I have tried almost everything - mothballs (yukky to me but the rabbits didn't mind them), blood meal, etc. as deterrents but none woked. Most of my plants now are rabbit-resistant - oleander, lavender, hibiscus (once grown to full size), jasmine, buddleia, etc. (They're now eating the bottom leaves off my citrus tree which is OK with me since I painted the trunk to protect it from sunburn. They'd have to get bunny ladders to be able to get at the rest of the tree.) The site has some listings that I and others have compiled over time. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Friday, March 09, 2001 9:06 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Rabbits! Ok, I'm expanding my earlier request to ideas on deterring rabbits (move them into the back with the dogs?!). I love having so many cottontails and jacks around the property--but I just walked outside and half of my newly planted iceplants are de-flowered and leaf munched. Grrrr! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dkrob6@earthlink.net Fri Mar 9 19:59:58 2001 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 12:59:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103091959.f29JxwV07725@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a small patio out back and each year I plant a few colorful flowers in terra cotta pots....Last year, it was petunias, and the sparrows started eating all the blooms til there was nothing left..So this year, I tried primroses, and lo and behold, for 2 months the blooms were safe, now, all of a sudden, the little monsters started eating the primrose blooms too. What the heck is going - is there an Alfred Hitchcock revival that I'm unaware of????? What CAN I plant that they won't consider fodder..or should we just buy a big mean cat? ( Not really an option - my husband HATES cats MORE than birds!! AH me!) From michellef@sequoia.k12.az.us Fri Mar 9 21:31:37 2001 From: michellef@sequoia.k12.az.us (Michelle Fowler) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 14:31:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing citrus trees Message-ID: I have three citrus trees that are at least 10 year old, a white grapefruit, tangerine, and sour orange with a grapefruit graft. About two weeks ago I noticed that the east-side branches of the grapefruit tree were dying. The bark is brittle and breaking off, the leaves are yellow and shriveling, and it seems to be dying from the tips in. We noticed a few months ago that it seemed to be struggling so we gave it a deep soak often and it produced some fruit. Even now, as the death seems to be spreading around the tree, it is growing new blossoms. We added fertilizer when watering alone didn't help and at the same time added it to the tangerine tree. Now it appears that the leaf shriveling and branch dying has moved to the tangerine tree as well. The sour orange appears unaffected. I hope you can help. Michelle Michelle Fowler High School Distance Learning Sequoia Choice michellef@sequoia.k12.az.us From cousinlll@aol.com Fri Mar 9 22:20:05 2001 From: cousinlll@aol.com (cousinlll@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 15:20:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103092220.f29MK5V07588@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello: Wondering if you have any information on or where I can get information about this member of the Acacia family: Acacia Eburnea (Arabian Acacia) Thanks for your time Larry From ClaireASP@aol.com Fri Mar 9 23:58:21 2001 From: ClaireASP@aol.com (ClaireASP@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 16:58:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103092358.f29NwLV26160@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi again. I am in the process of feeding my Mediterranian & Pigmy Date palms with the package Palm food that you buy at Home Depot. Unfortunately, without thinking I planted a whole bunch of Johnny JumpUps,(Viola), in the well around one of the Pigmy Palms. Now I can't dig the palm food into the ground around the Palm, without digging up all the JumpUps. Is there any kind of a liguid food that I could feed this one palm with? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.Claire. From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 00:55:25 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 17:55:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Rabbits! References: <3AA8E796.E4B2AACC@AuroraNow.org> <3AA8FF69.F1BE5CDA@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AA97B7C.2F7D52BC@qwest.net> Sherryl: At the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society meeting last night a member mentioned putting chicken wire on the ground around his roses and other plants to keep the cats from using the area as a litter box. Another member commented that it could be done to keep rabbits away (the probably wouldn't like walking (hopping?) on it). I can't say for sure that this will work. Have you tried using the granular product called Repel? It smells pretty bad and is SUPPOSED to deter rabbits. You have to keep replacing it especially after rains but it might be worth a try. Maybe some one else on-line can comment on the chicken wire (Alan? Are you there?) Sue Bass Master Gardener Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Ok, > I'm expanding my earlier request to ideas on deterring rabbits (move > them into the back with the dogs?!). I love having so many cottontails > and jacks around the property--but I just walked outside and half of my > newly planted iceplants are de-flowered and leaf munched. Grrrr! > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jlcollins1@prodigy.net Sat Mar 10 02:06:36 2001 From: jlcollins1@prodigy.net (jlcollins1@prodigy.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:06:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103100206.f2A26aV11576@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can a raised garden container be built with the use of treated-wood? jesse From jlcollins1@prodigy.net Sat Mar 10 02:07:23 2001 From: jlcollins1@prodigy.net (jlcollins1@prodigy.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:07:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103100207.f2A27NV11658@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can a raised garden container be built with the use of treated-wood? jesse From rraley@aol.com Sat Mar 10 02:32:57 2001 From: rraley@aol.com (rraley@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 19:32:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103100232.f2A2WvV14154@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently visited Scottsdale and was enhanced by so many beautiful trees bordering the streets. What is the name of some of these trees? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 10 02:34:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 21:34:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fertilizing Palms Message-ID: <3a.11ecbe31.27daecd0@aol.com> Claire, Yes there is a liquid fertilizer available for palms. Not long ago I saw some at Home Depot. If you don't find it there try other nurseries. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Mar 10 05:00:38 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:00:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Raised Garden Container Using Pressure Treated Wood References: <200103100207.f2A27NV11658@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <000601c0a91f$10ee31e0$5f52530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can a raised garden container be built with the use of treated-wood? Assuming you refer to "pressure" treated wood, this is a much-discussed, controversial topic on many gardening email lists and Usenet. There is a current 39-post thread on Usenet's rec.gardens.edible and there does not appear to be a consensus. The most commonly available PT has been saturated, under pressure, with chromate copper arsenate, a fungicide that prevents rot. There are some questions about safety in handling the wood, but most of the concerns relating to gardening have to do with what effect the copper arsenate has on a vegetable crop when it leaches into the garden soil. Questions as to whether or not the arsenic can be taken up by plants, whether it can be cleaned sufficiently from vegetables whose roots are consumed, whether the minute amount that leaches out can even be harmful to humans, etc. The PT lumber industry believes PT wood is perfectly safe. The organic gardening community as well as many other gardeners believe it should not be used. Whether or not to use the PT wood is a question you need to answer for yourself after perusing some of the information, pro and con, about the issue. A good place to begin is an article on this topic by the Oregon Cooperative Extension at: http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/garden/Gardening/ptw.html Olin Miller From bjfaris@citlink.net Sat Mar 10 05:24:49 2001 From: bjfaris@citlink.net (bjfaris@citlink.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 22:24:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103100524.f2A5OdV04153@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Have a lot of Pistachio trees and would like to know how to process the nuts, also need some information on Almond trees. From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 15:56:36 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:56:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A few upcoming gardens tours References: <200103090411.f294BaV20894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA4EB4.3F3A6CAC@qwest.net> You can find information on the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society's Annual Rose Garden Tour and BBQ at our website: http://www.roses4AZ-mevrs.org/ It will take place on April 21st. Scroll down to the section entitled "Meetings and Events" for all of the details. Also, if you go the Maricopa County Home Horticulture page and select EVENTS from the left-hand column, you will find, if you scroll down the event calendar, a listing for the 6th Annual Garden Tour on March 31st. Details can be found on this page. Sue Bass Master Gardener tcarillon@hotmail.com wrote: > I have enjoyed the March and April garden tours I have gone on in the past years; however, it is always hard to get the information as to when and which tours are scheduled. Sometimes I'll see it in the Republic, other times in Phoenix Home and Garden, etc. I'm not talking about the expensive Garden Conservancy tours - just the local garden clubs,etc. How can I find out more about these? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 15:59:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 08:59:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Composter References: <200103051821.f25ILVV03269@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA4F4F.2CB8B504@qwest.net> Before you go to the trouble of purchasing a composter, you should check your city's municipal trash area and ask if they recycle their old trash cans. The City of Phoenix does so [for a very nominal fee] and I know some of the east valley cities do so too because a friend got one for me as an extra. I've also seen sheets of perforated recycled rubber which you tie into the desired cylinder form to use as a composter and/or potato-growing barrel. They're about $15 in some of the garden catalogs. Just for fun, you might try the composting link at this page in our website http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/links.htm molinas@aol.com wrote: > Where can I buy a small composter? I live in Mesa. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:02:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:02:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Argentina Cactus References: <200103020201.TAA28034@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA500F.3C63D350@qwest.net> I haven't seen a reply to your query yet, and unfortunately I don't have one for you either. However, may I suggest that you call the local experts at the Desert Botanical Gardens? They have a hotline that is open for public questions M-F 10 to 11:30 am. Phone 480-941-1225. Linda Guy Master Gardener pglopat@cs.com wrote: > Can you give me any information you have on the Argentina Cactus? Is there a picture of it available? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:05:28 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:05:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mealy Cup Salvias References: <3A9AB369.3BEA8ACB@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AAA50C8.B7AFD4FD@qwest.net> Don't know as you've gotten feedback as yet....I would cut off the spindly tops as soon as you believe them to be out of danger of near term cold weather. Given today's rainy cool, I'm not sure what to recommend! If you can't resist the urge to prune, make sure you bring them in or cover them up if you head into cooler temps to preserve the new growth, else you'll have more of the same, till the warmer weather truly arrives. Thanks for your kind words on the buddleia. Linda Guy Master Gardener Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi all, > I have 6 large containers that I planted mealy-cup salvias in last > summer. I thought they weren't very cold hardy but mine now have lots of > new growth at the bottoms. Should I cut off the spindly tops? Since they > did so well, I was thinking of transplanting them into my regular flower > bed, but the soil is much sandier (I used regular potting soil in the > containers) and they won't get as much water since the bed is almost all > native/very xerics. Would they still do ok? > > Thanks for the info on the buddleia, Linda! I just happened to get one > over the weekend and was wondering about its growth habit/care. Sounds > like I picked a perfect spot for it. Does anyone know its origins? Is it > a mediterranean native? Just curious. > > re: Seeds. I'm starting to agree with Linda that direct sewing is the > way to go with natives. I did collect a couple dozen 2-4" brittlebush > volunteers last week that so far seem to be handling transplanting just > fine. One thing I've seeded in flats that have germinated prolifically > are New Mexico Sunflower (Maxmillian's Daisy). Anyone have any > experience with them here in the low desert they'd like to share? > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:07:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizer Spikes for Citrus References: <200102252248.PAA24894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA5156.E1AB243D@qwest.net> I don't know this from personal experience, but I believe that a good citrus fertilizer applied in the three recommended annual tranches [Feb, May, late Aug] will be sufficient. These applications are well watered in so as to prevent citrus defoliation from fertilizer burn. I don't know that I'd waste the extra money on the spikes. Linda Guy Master Gardener GrdrnrAZ@aol.com wrote: > I have a two year old grapefruit tree on my property in Tucson. My question is, I have seen fruit tree fertilizer spikes at the hardware store- can those be used in addition to regular fertilizer to add slow release nutrients? Also, When should a layer of ground bark mulch be added to the tree mentioned above? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:10:15 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:10:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fertilizer Spikes for Citrus [contd] References: <200102252248.PAA24894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA51E7.99E8D225@qwest.net> Sorry, I neglected your second question. Mulch is a good way of preserving soil moisture, but bark will burn up within a year or so and need to be reapplied. I don't know how you irrigate your citrus, but it should be deeply and slowly. If you apply streams of water quickly, it does the citrus no good and would wash your mulch away to boot. Linda, again. GrdrnrAZ@aol.com wrote: > I have a two year old grapefruit tree on my property in Tucson. My question is, I have seen fruit tree fertilizer spikes at the hardware store- can those be used in addition to regular fertilizer to add slow release nutrients? Also, When should a layer of ground bark mulch be added to the tree mentioned above? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:12:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:12:48 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page] Message-ID: <3AAA5280.EE2C8C7B@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------F954940C620BD8CE86C32165 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Because this is to go to ADOT, would you reply formally? I don't believe that this is a good watering practice, in or out of lawns. Linda --------------F954940C620BD8CE86C32165 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: lindaguy@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 14469 invoked by uid 0); 26 Feb 2001 19:58:26 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 26 Feb 2001 19:58:25 -0000 Received: (qmail 79897 invoked from network); 26 Feb 2001 19:58:17 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO Ag.Arizona.Edu) (128.196.42.70) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 26 Feb 2001 19:58:16 -0000 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id MAA19103; Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:58:03 -0700 (MST) Received: from ag.arizona.edu (Ag.Arizona.Edu [128.196.42.70]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with SMTP id MAA19030 for ; Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <200102261957.MAA19030@Ag.Arizona.Edu> From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Originating-URL: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------F954940C620BD8CE86C32165-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:26:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:26:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ferns in the Low Desert References: <200102270045.RAA01224@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA55A9.A002202D@qwest.net> I regret to inform you that they will not enjoy our hot dry climate. Is there any way they can be indoors? The ones that do best in a covered patio area are called western ferns [I think]...I have one but can't locate the tag with the botanical name. Anyway, I haven't been able to kill it, but it doesn't look as lush as those in the old Victorian parlors shall we say. Grouping them together will help you to keep the humidity marginally higher around them. Having said this, if these are your 'babies' and you really nurse them along, they may just have a chance. Keep them out of direct sun of course, don't let the water pool in the trays [we have much higher tendency to salt accumulation in containers...my outside plants are ALL without trays so that salts can be leached as the water drains out.]. If you can, repot to a slightly larger container before the major growth season hits [easier to keep the root ball moist] and watch them closely as they transition to our zone. Diluted fertilizer as the growing season begins [too much and you add to the salt accumulation problem] will help, too. Linda Guy Master Gardener casalzer1@cs.com wrote: > We are moving to the northwest valley in late August from So. California, in particular near the beach. > > I have several varities of ferns such as birdsnest, rabbits foot, etc. and would like to know if they will survive the heat. > > I am looking to put in a drip system in an arbor to house these plants. > > Any suggestions would be gladly appreciated. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 16:47:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 09:47:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Acacias References: <200102280102.SAA14234@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA5A8D.38C190FF@qwest.net> Shoestring acacias [A.stenophylla], are usually lower maintenance, not requiring a great deal of pruning. You will want to encourage some strong vertical arms to support the weeping stems. One reference recommends pruning up the lower branches to 6-8' after a few seasons in your yard to encourage height, allowing branches to drape better, and permit underplanting [ie raising the canopy]. Never top this tree [actually never top ANY tree] as it will foster its tendency to sucker badly and leave you with a dense and round canopy. Avoid overwatering, particularly in the cool season and don't bother to fertilize. These practices only encourage excessive growth. The recommended pruning time is January per my primary reference source, Eric Johnson's Pruning, Planting and Care. Sweet acacias [A. smallii, A. farnesiana or A. minuta] are no doubt blooming in your yard as I write. Unless the aroma is particularly offensive [the French perfume industry uses quite a bit of this I'm told!] you will want to wait to prune until the beautiful show is over. Johnson suggests April, and that is when I usually shape the tree for the coming season. I'd like to say that this is the only time I prune these trees, but I wouldn't be telling the truth. I've two along a public sidewalk and I usually work 2x again on them in the summer to avoid pedestrian casualties. But as the canopy rises, the job is getting less and less involved. Interior thinning is really important for these trees, for they can get really bushy. I've had lots of cross-branching with resulting rubbing and wounds over the years, so this thinning is important. Also, pruning up to permit passing under, as previously mentioned. You don't say if you have a single or multiple trunk, but if the latter, over time you will reduce the 'canes' to just a few. Mine have gone from 6-8 canes to 4 to manage the canopy better. These sucker hard after an intense pruning, so the earlier in the tree's life you get the basic shape you want to stay with, the lighter your ensuing pruning jobs and resulting suckering will become. Similar remarks about water and fertilizer as with the shoestring; these are self-fertilizing trees [bean pods falling to the ground]. Don't increase your workload by fostering more growth! Good luck, and wear long sleeves and stout leather gloves! Linda Guy Master Gardener edgarmeya1@hotmail.com wrote: > When is the best time to prune a sweet accacia and shoestring? We live in Peoria, Az. Thank you, 2/27/01 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 10 17:04:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 10:04:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pistachios and Almonds References: <200103100524.f2A5OdV04153@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAA5E89.2D2BA98C@qwest.net> Our publication MC 90 Deciduous Fruit & Nuts for the Low Desert will help you with the almond trees. It can be ordered from information on our Pubs List at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#top I normally recommend you check the reference section of the public library [Maricopa County] to see if they have our publications in a notebook [code 635] but this is a very new pub and I'm not sure it would be out there yet. Another good general reference is our online Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Within this manual I found a chill requirement chart which lists both almonds and pistachios http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/fruit/foundation.html You must not live in the Phoenix area if you have pistachio nut production, as it seems they need 800-1000 hours of winter chill. Have you inquired of your local cooperative extension office for more information? Locate them at http://ag.arizona.edu/extension/counties/ Linda Guy Master Gardener bjfaris@citlink.net wrote: > Have a lot of Pistachio trees and would like to know how to process the nuts, also need some information on Almond trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dstorey@whc.net Sat Mar 10 17:07:16 2001 From: dstorey@whc.net (dstorey@whc.net) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 10:07:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103101707.f2AH7FV02578@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in El Paso Texas (hot and dry)My lawn was established when I purchased my home, it is bermuda grass and is very dense and about 3 to 3 1/2 in deep. When should I do the first mowing? Also the lawn slopes in the middle, how should I mow it? Horizontal or vertical? Thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 10 23:48:37 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 18:48:37 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Bermuda grass Message-ID: If your grass is common bermuda ( started from seed) then you should cut to about 2 inches, if it is one of the hybrids ( started from sod ) then it should be cut shorter depending on which hybrid you have. If your grass is now green and actively growing then the bermuda was over seeded with rye so that the grass would be green in the winter. If the grass was not overseeded and is still brown it should be cut to about 1 1/2 inches to allow the sun to reach the emerging rye. Your grass will look better if it is cut in a different direction each time. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Patdonvick@aol.com Sun Mar 11 00:30:08 2001 From: Patdonvick@aol.com (Patdonvick@aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2001 19:30:08 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardenbergia violacea as a shrub?? Message-ID: <5b.12ff7c98.27dc2110@aol.com> --part1_5b.12ff7c98.27dc2110_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit HI--- I am visiting my mother in Sun City (this is her e-mail). She bought a Hardenbergia violacea, enticed by its violet flowers, because the tag said it could be grown as a trailing shrub 3 feet tall by 10 feet wide. I recognized it as a climber, which is what most of the web information says, too. I have planted it where she wants her "shrub." I removed the stake supporting the twining vines and separated them so that it now "fountains" slightly. I'm suspecting that its vines will continue to fountain out, draping down towards the ground reaching the 10-foot spread indicated on the tag. Right? Does this need occasional tip pruning or should she be removing old/dead branches all the way back to the ground? Please tell me if you have better advice as to how she should maintain this as a "shrub." Thank you!! --part1_5b.12ff7c98.27dc2110_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit HI---

I am visiting my mother in Sun City (this is her e-mail). She bought a
Hardenbergia violacea, enticed by its violet flowers, because the tag said it
could be grown as a trailing shrub 3 feet tall by 10 feet wide. I recognized
it as a climber, which is what most of the web information says, too. I have
planted it where she wants her "shrub." I removed the stake supporting the
twining vines and separated them so that it now "fountains" slightly. I'm
suspecting that its vines will continue to fountain out, draping down towards
the ground reaching the 10-foot spread indicated on the tag. Right? Does this
need occasional tip pruning or should she be removing old/dead branches all
the way back to the ground? Please tell me if you have better advice as to
how she should maintain this as a "shrub."

Thank you!! --part1_5b.12ff7c98.27dc2110_boundary-- From Ksporter007@AOL.com Sun Mar 11 14:25:45 2001 From: Ksporter007@AOL.com (Ksporter007@AOL.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 07:25:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103111425.f2BEPjV06949@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi! I'm a Master Gardener from Noblesville, IN. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in two weeks and want to take my host some lavender, Munstead, from my garden. I cannot find your Zone. Would you please let me know your Zone. Thanks for your help! From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 11 14:44:22 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 07:44:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Munstead Lavender and Climate Zones In-Reply-To: <200103111425.f2BEPjV06949@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: I think Zone 9 USDA Climate Zones based on winter minimums. Zone 13 in the Sunset series of books which includes more than cold temperatures. In any case, Munstead lavender does very well out here - in any location. I have some in the front and back of my house (some get the afternoon sun and some the morning sun)and all are very happy year-round. It has become my favorite and least troublesome plant. Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener, but a Lavender Lover -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Ksporter007@aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2001 7:26 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hi! I'm a Master Gardener from Noblesville, IN. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in two weeks and want to take my host some lavender, Munstead, from my garden. I cannot find your Zone. Would you please let me know your Zone. Thanks for your help! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Sun Mar 11 15:00:19 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 08:00:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardenbergia violacea as a shrub?? In-Reply-To: <5b.12ff7c98.27dc2110@aol.com> Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0AA01.50B98A80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I saw one in my neighborhood that was trained as a shrub and looked very nice - like a 'fountain' as you describe it. I imagine that it takes more work to keep it that way, though, than it would if it were left to grow as a vine, like mine is. My Sunset Western Garden book says that it can be "pegged down as a ground cover" so that could be considered the trailing shrub described on the tag. Hardenbergia should be heavily pruned back after flowering each year to prevent tangling. I didn't do that last year and I got lots of tangles, though I had a wealth of incredibly beautiful flowers last month. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Patdonvick@aol.com Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:30 PM To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Hardenbergia violacea as a shrub?? HI--- I am visiting my mother in Sun City (this is her e-mail). She bought a Hardenbergia violacea, enticed by its violet flowers, because the tag said it could be grown as a trailing shrub 3 feet tall by 10 feet wide. I recognized it as a climber, which is what most of the web information says, too. I have planted it where she wants her "shrub." I removed the stake supporting the twining vines and separated them so that it now "fountains" slightly. I'm suspecting that its vines will continue to fountain out, draping down towards the ground reaching the 10-foot spread indicated on the tag. Right? Does this need occasional tip pruning or should she be removing old/dead branches all the way back to the ground? Please tell me if you have better advice as to how she should maintain this as a "shrub." Thank you!! ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0AA01.50B98A80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I = saw one in my=20 neighborhood that was trained as a shrub and looked very nice - like a=20 'fountain' as you describe it.  I imagine that it = takes more work=20 to keep it that way, though, than it would if it were left to grow as a = vine,=20 like mine is.   
 
My Sunset=20 Western Garden book says that it can be "pegged down as a ground cover" = so that=20 could be considered the trailing shrub described on the = tag.
 
Hardenbergia=20 should be heavily pruned back after flowering each year to prevent=20 tangling.  I didn't do that last year and I got lots of tangles, = though I=20 had a wealth of incredibly beautiful flowers last month. =20
 
Ursula=20 Miller  
-----Original Message-----
From:=20 arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu=20 [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of=20 Patdonvick@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 5:30=20 PM
To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject:=20 [Arid_gardener] Hardenbergia violacea as a = shrub??

HI---

I am visiting my = mother in Sun=20 City (this is her e-mail). She bought a
Hardenbergia violacea, = enticed by=20 its violet flowers, because the tag said it
could be grown as a = trailing=20 shrub 3 feet tall by 10 feet wide. I recognized
it as a climber, = which is=20 what most of the web information says, too. I have
planted it = where she=20 wants her "shrub." I removed the stake supporting the
twining = vines and=20 separated them so that it now "fountains" slightly. I'm
suspecting = that=20 its vines will continue to fountain out, draping down towards
the = ground=20 reaching the 10-foot spread indicated on the tag. Right? Does this =
need=20 occasional tip pruning or should she be removing old/dead branches all =
the=20 way back to the ground? Please tell me if you have better advice as to =
how=20 she should maintain this as a "shrub."

Thank you!!=20
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01C0AA01.50B98A80-- From dogpine@aol.com Sun Mar 11 17:12:32 2001 From: dogpine@aol.com (dogpine@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 10:12:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103111712.f2BHCWV21416@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 4 year old red yucca has invasive tenacious weed grass with runners, around and intertwined in the base of the plant. Can't dig out because of fear of damage to yucca and because of drip irrigation system...can't spray with weed killer because the grass is so intertwined with the yucca. Currently I am digging it out as much as possible hoping that the yucca's strength will choke it out, but seems to be a losing battle. Am I forced to remove the yucca and start over? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 11 18:08:02 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 13:08:02 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Acacia eburnea Message-ID: <6.1347b114.27dd1902@aol.com> Larry, I'm sorry but I've not been able to find any info on the above tree in any of my texts or in the USDA data base for plants. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 11 18:38:16 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:38:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Acacia eburnea References: <6.1347b114.27dd1902@aol.com> Message-ID: <004c01c0aa5a$771642a0$5253530c@j0r9501> See photo of Acacia eburnea at http://www.dipbot.unict.it/orto/0208-1.html Suggest you contact Arid Zone trees in Mesa AZ. They list Acacia eburnea among trees in production at http://www.aridzonetrees.com/treesin.htm but don't describe it. Olin From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 18:35:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:35:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Acacia eburnea References: <200103092220.f29MK5V07588@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABC57D.F5FBBF98@qwest.net> Similar results as Rod's from my material . My only suggestion would be to try the Desert Botanical Gardens whose hotline for public questions is available M-F from 10 to 11:30 am at 480/941-1225. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener cousinlll@aol.com wrote: > Hello: > > Wondering if you have any information on or where I can get information about this member of the Acacia family: > > Acacia Eburnea (Arabian Acacia) > > Thanks for your time > > Larry > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 18:44:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 11:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Munstead lavender References: <200103111425.f2BEPjV06949@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABC78F.84D840D9@qwest.net> As Ursula advises, this lavender will grow here, but in what are mostly heavier clay soils, it prefers very good drainage like many of the Mediterranean herbs that can do well here [we increase soil aeration by adding organic material and/or quarter-to 3/8" minus gravel]. It also likes to have its "feet" a bit dried out between waterings. I have managed to kill one or two because they were adjacent to the lawn and received more irrigation than they liked! Have a fun visit, but be prepared for a possibly cooler and wetter time than we've had in a few years. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ksporter007@AOL.com wrote: > Hi! I'm a Master Gardener from Noblesville, IN. I'm planning a trip to Phoenix in two weeks and want to take my host some lavender, Munstead, from my garden. I cannot find your Zone. Would you please let me know your Zone. > Thanks for your help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 11 19:18:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:18:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Yucca with grassy weeds Message-ID: Your grassy weeds can be killed with a herbicide containing the chemical Flauzifop. One trade name is Grass Be Gone. It is an over the top spray that wiil not harm most broadleaf plants. Be sure to read the directions on the container. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Ellpw@aol.com Sun Mar 11 19:22:42 2001 From: Ellpw@aol.com (Ellpw@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:22:42 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander trees Message-ID: <64.bf27544.27dd2a82@aol.com> Hi, I'm new to your list and I have a lot to learn about gardening in this climate. I live in the Phoenix area and we recently bought a home with a nice front and back yard, the house is about 5 years old and has two big oleander trees in the front yard. Over the winter they lost all their leaves, now they look dark, dry and bare. And when I look at the oleander trees in my neighborhood, they still have their leaves and look a lot healthier. Is there anything I'm doing wrong? I have the watersystem on 15 minutes every 4 days, and we have had a lot of rainfall the last couple of days. Today I gave them some 'miracle grow' (2 gallons), because I read somewhere that they need nitrogen fertilizer....I hope I'll see some new leaves soon... Thanks for your advice, Ellen From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 19:27:59 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 12:27:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus for Containers References: <002301c0a670$1a51f2a0$1dcf56d1@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3AABD1BF.FBEEB563@qwest.net> --------------279063FBA016F100D87E3613 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best container variety would be on dwarf rootstock. For more information on selecting citrus, check out our publication AZ 1001 available online from a link at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus This will include discussions on cold sensitivity and other information requested. Limes would definitely be a problem for you; I have one in the inner city in a protected situation, but their frost sensitivity precludes their commercial viability in Phoenix. An interesting article in the May 2000 Sunset Magazine [www.sunset.com] talks about planting citrus in a bottomless container in the landscape. I'm not sure this is the best strategy for the Phoenix area, but you might enjoy the article. Linda Guy Master Gardener Kathleen Wattle wrote: > I live in the far northeast valley (2100'+) where there is more frost > likelihood and would still like to have some citrus in containers so I > can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, lemon, tangerine, > or lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is the > minimum size container I could use & still get some fruit? Are any > varieties (including those listed above & navels & grapefuit) suited > to inground planting here without having to go through hurdles to do > frost protection? If I could plant inground, I'd want a small tree so > it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous lush natural > mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is one > small section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge > effect but all the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it > doesn't seem a likely option. Also if I did plant inground, we have > both wash & higher areas on our land - which would be best for a > planting site? Any input will be appreciated. Thank you, Kathleen W --------------279063FBA016F100D87E3613 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The best container variety would be on dwarf rootstock. For more information on selecting citrus, check out our publication AZ 1001 available online from a link at
http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus
This will include discussions on cold sensitivity and other information requested. Limes would definitely be a problem for you; I have one in the inner city in a protected situation, but their frost sensitivity precludes their commercial viability in Phoenix.

An interesting article in the May 2000 Sunset Magazine [www.sunset.com] talks about planting citrus in a bottomless container in the landscape. I'm not sure this is the best strategy for the Phoenix area, but you might enjoy the article.

Linda Guy
Master Gardener

Kathleen Wattle wrote:

I live in the far northeast valley (2100'+) where there is more frost likelihood and would still like to have some citrus in containers so I can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, lemon, tangerine, or lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is the minimum size container I could use & still get some fruit? Are any varieties (including those listed above & navels & grapefuit) suited to inground planting here without having to go through hurdles to do frost protection? If I could plant inground, I'd want a small tree so it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous lush natural mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is one small section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge effect but all the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it doesn't seem a likely option.  Also if I did plant inground, we have both wash & higher areas on our land - which would be best for a planting site? Any input will be appreciated. Thank you, Kathleen W
--------------279063FBA016F100D87E3613-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 21:43:03 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:43:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillos References: <200103071936.f27JaIV06301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABF166.25AA746@qwest.net> These beauties can take 2-3 seasons to establish themselves [I personally dug up and got rid of one that I thought was gone; later I talked online to Mary Irish who gave me some tips on evaluating whether it was simply still in acclimation mode.]. If you still see some green streaking and the stems are still pliable, it is still with you and simply providing you another test of your patience. I just checked on mine yesterday [I sweat this question EVERY year at this time] and although mine is quite leafless with just a trace of green, each and every stem has a beaudacious [I think that's how you spell it!] red bud at the end. My leaves don't usually appear until later in the year for some reason. This can be a highly variable plant, from garden to garden. You can read Mary's excellent summary of care in her new book [p. 161] Gardening in the Desert. Or you can read her response to my original question many months ago which I've copied below for you: "Ocotillo are generally sold here with a very small root ball on a relatively large plant. This means that they must be well cared for in order to regrow and establish an adequate root system to support the plant. Here are my suggestions for a successful ocotillo transplant: Do not plant it below the original soil line. Water an area around the plant, or create a small well/basin so that you can provide water slowly and deeply to an area around the entire plant. To begin with it can be only 12-18 in in radius, it will need to be larger later on. Water the plant thoroughly after it is planted. If the weather is warm, water again in 10 days and about that often through the entire summer. If it is hot when it is planted water thoroughly when planted, then every week for about a month and out to evert 10 days for the rest of the warm season. In cooler weather (fall and winter) intermittent deep soaks will be sufficient. You may need to continue the more aggressive watering of the first summer through the second summer depending on how well the plant is established. While watering or spraying the whole plant is satisfying and delightful, it does nothing to help the plant. They only take up water and nutrients through their roots. Ocotillo take a long time to recover from transplant and it can be up to two years before the plant will set out leaves. If the canes are pliable and there is green visible at the base of the thorns, the plant is fine, just keep providing water and it will keep growing roots. You can consider an ocotillo to be well established when it readily produces leaves after a rain of more than .5 in and it blooms a couple of times. Once well established, an ocotillo only needs a good deep soak about once a month in summer (although they easily take more) and less in the winter (none if it rains regularly). Mary" Good luck with your plant. Linda Guy Master Gardener ljmattson2000@yahoo.com wrote: > Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 21:46:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:46:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Community Garden References: <200103051928.f25JSiV18974@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABF22A.59B7CDE0@qwest.net> We have a good set of references to get you started. Just go back to our home page http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ and hit the Community Garden link. There may also be similar information you can use in the Youth Garden link. Linda Guy Master Gardener bbrent6@qwest.net wrote: > How can I get a community garden started near downtown phoenix, where do I go for funding, etc. > > Thank you for your time. I look forward to seeing you at the next Master Gardner application workshop, as I will be applying. > > Thanks again > > Brent Bessette > 602-712-1606 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 21:48:47 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:48:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden with Flood Irrigation References: <200103072045.f27KjWV23569@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABF2BF.D673B3B6@qwest.net> I don't know how you would deal with flood irrigation without using raised beds, unless you do flower/herb/vegetable gardening with entirely transplanted materials [instead of seeding]. In this situation, many of us rely on soaker hose technology to water our pea patch. Did anyone else provide some ideas for you? Linda Guy Master Gardener annesullivan@home.com wrote: > What is the best way to prepare a garden if you have irrigation rather than a sprinkler system? For example, is it better to have it above ground with railroad ties as borders to keep the irrigation from washing away the seeds or young plants? > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 21:52:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:52:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander move References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AABF3B0.A1DFA073@qwest.net> Paraphrasing from Mary Irish's new book [it's been quite some time since I've had oleanders in my yards] they need a single deep monthly watering in the summer. Have you been overwatering your plants [I don't remember doing much if any watering in the cool season]? Linda Guy Master Gardener Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi fellow flowerfolk, > > 1) I think I've figured out that the problem with my oleanders is poor > drainage. I tried leaching them a couple of times and it took days for > the soil to dry out. They're looking pretty sad... but they're still > young. Is it worth trying to transplant them to a better area? > > 2) I just repotted a bunch of houseplants into some great terra cotta > wall hanging pots I picked up in Tubac. The clay seems to just suck the > moisture right out of the soil and the soil dries hard by the next day. > Should I try lining the pots (but not the drainage holes) with something > to keep the moisture in or try going with a heavy potting soil? I don't > want to have to water these things every day! > > 3) I figured I'd report my long-overdue victory with germinating > penstemon seeds. I had tried just planting, cold stratifying, and > soaking without luck. I finally took my last seeds and soaked them in > peroxide for 6-8 hours and they're finally germinating. I'm guessing the > cold stratify/peroxide combo is what finally got through that hard seed > coat. The seeds are too small at least for me to try scarifying. Just > thought I'd share. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 21:55:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 14:55:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dry dust mulching References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AABF43C.BDCA74B2@qwest.net> This is new to me....did you receive any replies from the AG group yet? Where did you see references to this practice? How would you keep dry dust 'dry' from rain or your irrigation? Or from adjacent sprinklers? One of the things gardeners have to beware of is putting too much soil up around the trunk, needing to maintain the integrity of the original soil line. Linda Guy Master Gardener Jonathan Kandell wrote: > Anyone have any experience with mulching with dry dirt instead of hay > etc? I've read it's just as effective to put a few inches of dirt atop > your good soil as it to use other stuff. > > jk > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 22:02:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:02:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander trees References: <64.bf27544.27dd2a82@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AABF601.BEDFD9D7@qwest.net> I'm fairly sure that you are killing your oleander with your watering practices. They rarely need any water at all in the winter and are quite satisfied with a single monthly deep soak [to 2-3' deep] in the hot summer months. They may already be gone....cut off the water and wait until the warmth of the spring months arrives to see if they make it. Linda Guy Master Gardener Ellpw@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > > I'm new to your list and I have a lot to learn about gardening in this > climate. I live in the Phoenix area and we recently bought a home with a nice > front and back yard, the house is about 5 years old and has two big oleander > trees in the front yard. Over the winter they lost all their leaves, now they > look dark, dry and bare. And when I look at the oleander trees in my > neighborhood, they still have their leaves and look a lot healthier. Is there > anything I'm doing wrong? > I have the watersystem on 15 minutes every 4 days, and we have had a lot of > rainfall the last couple of days. Today I gave them some 'miracle grow' (2 > gallons), because I read somewhere that they need nitrogen fertilizer....I > hope I'll see some new leaves soon... > > Thanks for your advice, > Ellen > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 22:07:05 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:07:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus Fruit Mold References: <200103081655.f28GtCV00081@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABF709.FF1F72B5@qwest.net> You might want to check out the discussions of citrus diseases at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/index.htm#c I'm not personally familiar with this condition [stem-end rot perhaps?], but I think that you will find what you are looking for in our index. Linda Guy Master Gardener GEMolumby@aol.com wrote: > We have quite a few oranges falling off our trees and they have a black circle around where the stem was. It looks like mold. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 11 22:09:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 15:09:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tree ID References: <200103100232.f2A2WvV14154@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AABF790.DFFAB99A@qwest.net> You will have to provide a detailed description for one of us to reply. Linda Guy Master Gardener rraley@aol.com wrote: > I recently visited Scottsdale and was enhanced by so many beautiful trees bordering the streets. What is the name of some of these trees? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 11 22:32:05 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 17:32:05 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Scottsdale trees Message-ID: <2b.1231546f.27dd56e5@aol.com> I lived in Scottsdale several years ago and I'll try to give you a list from memory which would include : queen palms, fan palms, Mesquite, Palo Verde, Palo Brea, Acacia, African Sumac, Bottle Tree, Evergreen Elm, Arizona Ash, Shamel Ash, Indian laurel, Pine, Eucalyptus, Pepper Tree, Evergreen Pear, Cypress, Desert Willow, Lysiloma, Olive, Mimosa, Silk Oak, Jacaranda, Sissoo, Orchid Tree, as well as others. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 11 22:32:06 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 17:32:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailing citrus trees Message-ID: <37.11dd0073.27dd56e6@aol.com> Michelle, It sounds like your citrus trees may have a fungus such as Rio Grande Gummosis or Psorosis, unfortunately there is not a treatment for either one. For a positive ID I suggest that you take samples to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for their input. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 12 00:14:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 19:14:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cascalote Tree, planted too deep Message-ID: <7b.1161f2e2.27dd6edd@aol.com> I would be concerned about the water standing in the basin around the tree after a rain. Do you have caliche in your yard? Was there a problem in digging the hole? Sounds like the drainage is not very good. I would suggest that you raise the rootball up to where the top is 1 to 2 inches above grade. If you need to move the tree to another location the shock won't be much greater than raising it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From daletate@swbell.net Mon Mar 12 01:00:15 2001 From: daletate@swbell.net (Dale Tate) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 18:00:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dry dust mulching Message-ID: Jonathan, I've often wondered about the possibilities. I have t-tape which is buried about 6 inches in a vegetable garden and the water never come to the top of the ground when I irrigate so I have few weed that germinate. Really don't know of any other benefit, however it's logical that I'm losing little water to evaporation. Dale Tate http://daletate.tripod/homepage.html From Landlightdesign@aol.com Mon Mar 12 05:31:56 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 00:31:56 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #60 - 14 msgs Flood Irrigation, raised bed Message-ID: --part1_e3.118d9b24.27ddb94c_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You might want to think about interlocking concrete block instead of railroad ties. This material will help keep the flood irrigation water out of your vegetable beds. Flood irrigation will bring all sorts of weed and grass seed into your beds and will also wash away vegetable seeds. It also comes to infrequently for vegetables and flowers. you will need to water your garden by hand or with a drip system. Railroad ties look nice but newer ones can leach the preservative into the soil. Interlocking concrete block comes in a stone finish and is available at most home centers. A two block high border with soil burmed up should make a nice semi-raised bed. Another benefit to block is it's thermal mass. The block's mass will help keep your plants cool in the warmer months and help retain water. Paul Dickey Master Gardener --part1_e3.118d9b24.27ddb94c_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You might want to think about interlocking concrete block instead of railroad
ties.
This material will help keep the flood irrigation water out of your vegetable
beds.
Flood irrigation will bring all sorts of weed and grass seed into your beds
and will also wash away vegetable seeds. It also comes to infrequently for
vegetables and flowers. you will need to water your garden by hand or with a
drip system.
Railroad ties look nice but newer ones can leach the preservative into the
soil.
Interlocking concrete block comes in a stone finish and is available at most
home centers. A two block high border with soil burmed up should make a nice
semi-raised bed. Another benefit to block is it's thermal mass. The block's
mass will help keep your plants cool in the warmer months and help retain
water.

Paul Dickey
Master Gardener --part1_e3.118d9b24.27ddb94c_boundary-- From kriegep@juno.com Mon Mar 12 05:32:00 2001 From: kriegep@juno.com (kriegep@juno.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2001 22:32:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Hydrangeas Message-ID: <20010311.223204.-341965.1.kriegep@juno.com> Is it possible to grow hydrangeas in Arizona? We have two homes; one in Tempe and the other in Pinetop. -PK ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From hongly@digitaldune.net Mon Mar 12 13:19:30 2001 From: hongly@digitaldune.net (hongly@digitaldune.net) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 06:19:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103121319.f2CDJTV13575@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Yuma, where it rains maybe couple time per year and in the summer the heat goes up to 110. I water my plants, shrubs, fruit trees, roses... everyday for 15 min.with dripping. Is that enough water ? The soil look dry all the time ! Please give me some advises. Thanks ! From eileenchaffee@hotmail.com Mon Mar 12 15:24:10 2001 From: eileenchaffee@hotmail.com (eileenchaffee@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 08:24:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103121524.f2CFOA013339@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am planning to relocated from Maryland to the Goodyear area of Arizona near Phoenix, and am wondering about gardening, which is very important to me. Do you have any information about what to garden, when, soil types, shade, too much sun, etc. I would like to plant vegetables, ex., lettuce(s) and some fruits. If you have a brochure regarding information for preparation of my soil and what I can plant and when, I would appreciate anything you can offer. I will be very new to the area and know nothing about Arizona agriculture. Thank you in advance for your cooperation. Eileen Chaffee, 2759 Greene Lane, Baldwin, MD 21013 From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 12 22:32:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:32:11 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cascalote Tree, planted too deep Message-ID: <70.8942941.27dea86b@aol.com> Glenda, I suspect that you may have dug the planting hole too deep and not wide enough. Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture where you will find planting, watering, fertilizing as well as other info that will help you give your trees and plants the proper care and all this is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html One of the desert adapted trees with small leaves such as Palo Verde, Palo Brea, Acacia (there are many varieties) or Lysiloma might be what you are looking for. If you haven't been to the Desert Botanical Garden recently why not start there where you can see these trees as well as lots of others as mature trees. Many of them will be in bloom soon. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 12 22:32:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 17:32:10 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering Trees and Shrubs Message-ID: <45.3770a6e.27dea86a@aol.com> Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation which should answer your questions and explain why you should be deep watering at intervals much greater than what you are now doing. http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 12 22:41:13 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:41:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation References: <200103121319.f2CDJTV13575@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAD5089.DA69B5A5@qwest.net> Watering everyday for 15 minutes is not a good practice. Deep watering is preferred as it allows the water to reach the root zone of the plants and flush away excess salts which are found in our soils. I'd like to direct you to two sites with great information. One is from the city of Phoenix and you can view it at: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/treeshrb.html The other is from the Master Gardener Manual at: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Click on "contents" and then scroll down to the heading "irrigation". Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener hongly@digitaldune.net wrote: > I live in Yuma, where it rains maybe couple time per year and in the summer the heat goes up to 110. I water my plants, shrubs, fruit trees, roses... everyday for 15 min.with dripping. Is that enough water ? The soil look dry all the time ! Please give me some advises. Thanks ! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jbegeman@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Mar 12 22:43:26 2001 From: jbegeman@Ag.Arizona.Edu (John Begeman) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:43:26 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] French Gardens Tour: Paris to Provence Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010312154326.007e6db0@ag.arizona.edu> Dear Gardening Enthusiast, Join horticulturist, garden columnist, and T.V. host John Begeman and Gilded Age Tours for 12 fabulous days in France this August 4- 15. You'll visit some of the most beautiful gardens in the world, in the City of Light and then in Provence. From the classicism of the chateaus of the Loire Valley, to the exotic gardens of the Rivera and Monaco, to the lavender fields of Provence, this tour offers something for every garden lover. Add in wonderful meals, fine hotels, wine tasting and gorgeous scenery, and you have an experience you'll always remember. The experienced professionals at Guilded Age Tours, French tour specialists, will provide personal attention to each member of our small group of 25 travellers, and make you feel like their personal guests. Garden commentary will be provided throughout the tour by John Begeman. Space is limited - we expect the tour to fill up quickly, so reserve your space today! For a detailed itinerary visit http://www.gildedagetours.com ,or send an e-mail request with your name and mailing address to: begeman@dakotacom.net John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon Mar 12 22:39:40 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 15:39:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Dry dust mulching In-Reply-To: <3AABF43C.BDCA74B2@qwest.net> References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010312104108.00d07320@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Linda, No replies at all. I first encountered this concept in the work of Steve Solomon, the guy who wrote "Gardening West of the Cascades." He has a very provocative book on dry vegetable growing which he has generously posted on line. Two concepts which got me thinking are to give vegetables extra large amounts of room (so they don't compete for rain water) and his notion of dry dust mulching.The basic idea is that water only evaporates from 6" down if the surface is damp. But if you can keep a surface 5-6" as dry as possible water will not evaporate. After thinking about it a while I cam to the conclusion that "irony" of this is that for those plants which you intend to maximize rain water, you need to do stuff like the Indians did, using lots of room per plant, and sloped basins etc. But for the plants you intend to fully irrigate you need to go the opposite extreme and use intensive methods so as to maximize your use of water. The discussion of dry dust mulching is in the middle of chapters 2 and 3 of the book http://www.soilandhealth.org/03sovereigntylibrary/0302%20homestedlibrary/030 201/03020100frame.html. Jonathan Kandell Tucson Arizona At 02:55 PM 3/11/01 -0700, you wrote: >This is new to me....did you receive any replies from the AG group yet? >Where did you see references to this practice? How would you keep dry dust >'dry' from rain or your irrigation? Or from adjacent sprinklers? One of the >things gardeners have to beware of is putting too much soil up around the >trunk, needing to maintain the integrity of the original soil line. > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener >Jonathan Kandell wrote: > > > Anyone have any experience with mulching with dry dirt instead of hay > > etc? I've read it's just as effective to put a few inches of dirt atop > > your good soil as it to use other stuff. > > > > jk > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Mar 13 01:26:22 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:26:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Dry dust mulching References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <4.2.2.20010312104108.00d07320@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AAD773E.C5D10D99@AuroraNow.org> Now that Jonathan has replied more, I think I've seen references to Native American techniques which would simulate what sounds like this "dry mulch" idea. The local (Tohono O'odham) natives "built up" the planting holes, creating almost a cone resembling a small exploded volcano. The plant stem itself is planted in the center of the mini-"crater" so as not to suffocate or rot the stem and maintain the integrity of the planting depth. I've also seen techniques involving mini-moats or shallow trenches at the outside of the rootzone to capture/retain water and avoid runoff. I wonder if the combination of the two: volcano surrounded my trench would work really well? Maybe I'll try that on a few of my borderline xerics and report the results at the end of the summer. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Mar 13 01:29:52 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:29:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander move References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> <3AABF3B0.A1DFA073@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AAD7810.D730EFF6@AuroraNow.org> > Have you been overwatering your plants [I don't remember doing > much if any watering in the cool season]? > I think mother nature may have overwatered them if this is the problem. Someone here suggested they may have needed a good leaching, and I tried that a few weeks ago. The surrounding soil took days to dry out so I'm suspecting a bad drainage area. They're looking more pathetic every day. I haven't watered them since I tried a super-soak a few weeks ago to leach out the soil. I'm just going to move them (in my spare time between midnight and 6am someday. ha). If they live, great. If not, I've learned Oleanders like good drainage. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Mar 13 01:35:03 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 18:35:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angels Trumpet References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <4.2.2.20010312104108.00d07320@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <3AAD773E.C5D10D99@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AAD7947.DE5ECE7E@AuroraNow.org> Has anyone on this list tried growing an Angel's Trumpet tree? (my mother borrowed my Western Garden Book so I can't look up the botanical name, sorry.) Some friends had one in their greenhouse in Santa Fe, NM and it was the most breathtaking tree I'd ever seen: 8-9" yellow flowers dangling gracefully straight down, literally like bells. I know they don't like cold and can get frost damaged, but I wonder how they tolerate our heat? I may build a sheltered area just to try one eventually. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with them here in the low desert. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Mar 13 02:19:32 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2001 19:19:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angel's Trumpet (Brugmansia) (Datura) References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <4.2.2.20010312104108.00d07320@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <3AAD773E.C5D10D99@AuroraNow.org> <3AAD7947.DE5ECE7E@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AAD83B4.1DD73733@qwest.net> Sherryl: I have no experience with this, but I do have my handy Western Garden Book here : ) Here is what the book says: Angel's Trumpet, botanical name Brugmansia (Datura). Evergreen Shrubs. Zones 16-24, Sun or Shade; Wind-sheltered. Water during growth and bloom season. Flowers and seeds are poisonous if eaten. Related to the annual or perennial jimsonweeds, or thorn apples (Datura). All kinds sold have tubular flowers. These shrubs will astonish your visitors (sounds like you were astonished) : ). All are large shrubs that can be trained as small trees. Expect frost damage and unattractive winter appearance. Prune in early spring after last frost. Cut back branchlets to one or two buds. (Tubbed plants can be wintered indoors with a little light and very little water.) Large of leaf and flower, these are dominating shrubs and should be brought into garden with that in mind. B. candida, white-flowered angel's trumpet, is showy in moonlight. The book lists varieties B. arborea, B. candida, B. sanguinea, B. suaveolens, and B. versicolor. They are native to Peru and Brazil. I'm intriqued! I may have to see a picture of one of these. Hope this helps! Sue Bass l Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Has anyone on this list tried growing an Angel's Trumpet tree? (my > mother borrowed my Western Garden Book so I can't look up the botanical > name, sorry.) Some friends had one in their greenhouse in Santa Fe, NM > and it was the most breathtaking tree I'd ever seen: 8-9" yellow flowers > dangling gracefully straight down, literally like bells. > > I know they don't like cold and can get frost damaged, but I wonder how > they tolerate our heat? I may build a sheltered area just to try one > eventually. Just wondering if anyone has had experience with them here > in the low desert. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Mar 13 14:31:25 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 07:31:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angel's Trumpet (Brugmansia) (Datura) References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <4.2.2.20010312104108.00d07320@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <3AAD773E.C5D10D99@AuroraNow.org> <3AAD7947.DE5ECE7E@AuroraNow.org> <3AAD83B4.1DD73733@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AAE2F3D.4169806B@AuroraNow.org> > I'm intriqued! I may have to see a picture of one of these. Sue, There's a picture of the Datura at the beginning of the WGB (I think it's in the section on "showy flowers", but it's a small photo of just a couple of the flowers that doesn't do the tree justice. I totally forgot I had a picture and just uploaded it at http://www.auroranow.org/ghouse.jpg if anyone wants to take a look (still not the greatest shot, but you can see my friend standing next to the tree looking at the flowers and it gives a good idea of the size of the flowers). We were there in mid November and the tree was at the beginning of its full bloom (I understand its a winter bloomer). I doubt they would do well unprotected here in our low desert with extremes, but the tree is so gorgeous, I'm considering it may be worth creating a spot for. I had read the details in the WGB but was wondering if anyone had personal experience with it out of its zones. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From jbegeman@Ag.Arizona.Edu Tue Mar 13 15:27:40 2001 From: jbegeman@Ag.Arizona.Edu (John Begeman) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 08:27:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] French Gardens Tour: Paris to Provence Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010313082740.007955a0@ag.arizona.edu> Dear Gardening Enthusiast, Join horticulturist, garden columnist, and T.V. host John Begeman and Gilded Age Tours for 12 fabulous days in France this August 4- 15. You'll visit some of the most beautiful gardens in the world, in the City of Light and then in Provence. From the classicism of the chateaus of the Loire Valley, to the exotic gardens of the Rivera and Monaco, to the lavender fields of Provence, this tour offers something for every garden lover. Add in wonderful meals, fine hotels, wine tasting and gorgeous scenery, and you have an experience you'll always remember. The experienced professionals at Guilded Age Tours, French tour specialists, will provide personal attention to each member of our small group of 25 travellers, and make you feel like their personal guests. Garden commentary will be provided throughout the tour by John Begeman. Space is limited - we expect the tour to fill up quickly, so reserve your space today! For a detailed itinerary visit http://www.gildedagetours.com ,or send an e-mail request with your name and mailing address to: begeman@dakotacom.net John P. Begeman, M.S. Urban Horticulture Agent Pima County Cooperative Extension Phone: (520) 626-5161 Fax: (520) 626-5849 jbegeman@ag.arizona.edu From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Mar 13 16:14:43 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 09:14:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angel's Trumpet (Brugmansia) (Datura) References: <3AAE2F3D.4169806B@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AAE4773.65279061@email.sps.mot.com> Their are lots of pictres of it at the following site as well. This is where I ordered my brugmansia from. http://www.logees.com/html_pages/Brugmansia/Brugmansia_Index.html ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > > I'm intriqued! I may have to see a picture of one of these. > > Sue, > There's a picture of the Datura at the beginning of the WGB (I think > it's in the section on "showy flowers", but it's a small photo of just a > couple of the flowers that doesn't do the tree justice. I totally forgot > I had a picture and just uploaded it at > http://www.auroranow.org/ghouse.jpg if anyone wants to take a look > (still not the greatest shot, but you can see my friend standing next to > the tree looking at the flowers and it gives a good idea of the size of > the flowers). We were there in mid November and the tree was at the > beginning of its full bloom (I understand its a winter bloomer). > > I doubt they would do well unprotected here in our low desert with > extremes, but the tree is so gorgeous, I'm considering it may be worth > creating a spot for. I had read the details in the WGB but was wondering > if anyone had personal experience with it out of its zones. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Marialv@webtv.net Tue Mar 13 21:21:37 2001 From: Marialv@webtv.net (Marialv@webtv.net) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 14:21:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103132121.f2DLLb022120@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, How do you trim Mexican Fan Palm's? Was told to trim them to what is called :10 o'clock to 2 o'clock,can you please let me know.Thank you,Maria Brown From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 13 22:30:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 17:30:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Fan palms, Pruning Message-ID: <93.816e14d.27dff985@aol.com> Maria, You will find answers to your questions about palm tree care as well as pruning at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From lenisueaz@aol.com Wed Mar 14 01:46:59 2001 From: lenisueaz@aol.com (lenisueaz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:46:59 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103140146.f2E1kx013884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This is not a gardening question. I have developed a receipe for Carne Adovodo that my husband and I really like and I would like to know if you have someone there that can tell me if this chili sauce receipe can be canned. I will need an e-mail address in order to correspond with them. Thank you, Sue From lenisueaz@aol.com Wed Mar 14 01:55:47 2001 From: lenisueaz@aol.com (lenisueaz@aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 18:55:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103140155.f2E1tl015291@Ag.Arizona.Edu> This is not a gardening question. I need to know if you have a cooking expert there and if they have an e-mail address. I have a chili receipe that I would like to can and need to know what to add as a preservitive. I'll give them the specifics when I talk to them. Thanks, Sue From rsokol3@juno.com Wed Mar 14 15:27:56 2001 From: rsokol3@juno.com (rsokol3@juno.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:27:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103141527.f2EFRu015530@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I keep the birds from eating all the peaches off my peach tree? The tree is too large to use a net. Does each peach have to be individually protected or wrapped in something? From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 16:10:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:10:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Dogs! References: <3AA8E796.E4B2AACC@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AAF9809.8DE92F6D@qwest.net> As to the DOGS, [I think I've given you food enough for thought in another's reply vis the rabbits] we recently installed a chain link fence with a gate to keep them in the third of our backyard which is not visible from our patio and away from the cultivated areas. This is where the kids have always played, too [a 10-ton sand pile, the rabbit's 20' pen under a tree and the trampoline are/were all back there]. I just couldn't fight my terrier's natural instinct to dig, and when I lost $50 worth of habranthus and zephyranthes [rain lilies] bulbs 6 weeks ago, running a 16' stretch in a hidden area that was also the narrowest portion of the yard was our simple solution. [Sandy is pouting; she wants me to be sure to say that she didn't START the dig, but her visiting friend Kiki, a 120-pound Akita, started what ultimately became the size of a shallow grave. Sorry to have appeared to blame you girl!] With a gate, it is easy to let her run all over the place when we are outdoors, but keep her in an area where we don't mind her 'lapses' shall we say, because they happen away from the gardens and pond. By the way, I'm thinking of putting either grapes or a flowering vine over the fence. Also, there are electric barrier options, with either 'hot' wires or radio signals, that mildly jolt and are said to train dogs. It was just easier for us to accept our beloved pound puppy for what she is and give her space of her own. We are ALL much happier now! Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Please share your experience: > My dogs keep eating everything I plant in "their" yard (including > ocotillo and existing cholla!). It seems nothing shy of a 3 ply, 3 foot > fence of chicken wire protects my young trees and shrubs. Since we *do* > share our backyard with these spoiled mutts (blame my spouse and > offspring) I *would* like to SEE what I plant instead of a yard dotted > with chicken wire cylinders. > > Anyone try any creative home remedy deterrants with luck? > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 16:13:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:13:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Worm Viruses Message-ID: <3AAF98B5.7E4884B9@qwest.net> I have received two emails in the last two days containing this virus. Again, it has to do with Snow White and the Dwarves. I've gotten simlarly titled emails in the past few months and I don't even bother to repair them just blow them away. Just a head's up....is anyone else getting these? Linda Guy From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 16:16:48 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:16:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafted citrus buds still green References: <3f.1183b7f6.27d5280f@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AAF9970.A6D0CF7B@qwest.net> Based on your description, Dr. Glenn Wright, our citrus expert says: "Do not reapply the tape. Now is the time to force the bud." Sorry this response is so late. Linda Guy Master Gardener Krulich@aol.com wrote: > I grafted some citrus buds 2 weeks ago and I took the tape off today to see > how they are doing. They are still green. According to publication az1146, > it says to remove the tape in 2 to 3 weeks and if the bud is green it is > alive. > > Since it's been 2 weeks and they are still alive, should I put the tape back > on and wait for the buds to push through when they sprout, or should I leave > the tape off? > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 16:20:11 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:20:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Alternaria? Message-ID: <3AAF9A3B.758BAEE1@qwest.net> I don't recall how long ago you wrote, but our citrus expert, Dr. Glenn Wright, has suggested that you might have alternaria. You can view our website's discussion at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/altrnria.htm You need to dispose of the rotting fruit immediately, don't leave it lying around or bury it. Sorry the response took a while. Linda Guy Master Gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 15:56:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 08:56:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Control References: <200102251617.JAA11966@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAF94A2.CC990891@qwest.net> I've been saving your question, though I know you've already had a reply or two, because I recently found a really good list of plant materials that are rabbit-resistant. Apart from barriers, using plants that a particular animal will avoid is your best bet. However, I would like to mention that chicken wire is not the only barrier option. There are rolls of nicer looking hardware mesh/cloth and garden border fencing, the latter sometimes coated in a colored vinyl material, that come in a variety of widths. You might effectively use something in the green range around your shrubs, and have it blend. Once the plants are better established the enclosures might [I say might] be removed. But remember, in the hardest of droughts, critters will eat about anything to get a little water. Here's the list from a new book I received when I took my advanced tree care training recently. It's Eric Johnson's Pruning, Planting and Care in a series on Plants for the Arid West. [Aurora-Sherryl, are you reading too?!?!] Carissa species Centaurea species Dalea greggii Euryops pectinatus Fallugia paradoxa Gelsemium sempervirens Geranium species Myoporum species Macfadeana unguis-cacti Nandina domestica Nierembergia species Nerium oleander Plumbago scandens Rhapiolepis species Sormarinus officinalis Salvia species Santolina species Thymus species Vinca major Westringia rosmarinifolia I've seen organic farm/garden supply catalogs advertise predator urine with which you could "mark" your yard. I'll look it up for you if you are seriously interested in this option. You would need to spray it periodically, but we're, after all, a land of little rain. However, you mentioned that you already have fox on the property?? Linda Guy Master Gardener Bluisaz@aol.com wrote: > My husband and I live in an adult community where we have alot of natural wild life ie; fox, cottontails, quail and a chickmunk. Unable to place a fence around our yard, what can we do about the "Rabbit's"? Are there any plants that the rabbit's would not eat? chicken wire cages are not our cup of tea.... > Our other quiery is about a Hibiscus tree that we planted in to a container last summer.. it has not produced any new blooms and had developed small yellow leaves...I gave it ironite and it had improved somewhat, but it has not grown.... > I was then told that maybe it was not getting enough sun, so I took it out of the 5 gallon container and planted it in the yard that faces west. > When I took the Hibiscus out of the container to plant it, I noticed that the root system was very thin and had not grown very much since last summer. > Is there any hope? > What can we to do to save this tree? > I hope that I have given you enough information. I will thank you in advance for you response.. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 16:30:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:30:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Rabbit Control References: <200102251617.JAA11966@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAF9CBF.F0DE1C29@qwest.net> [Resent as original failed to post.] I've been saving your question, though I know you've already had a reply or two, because I recently found a really good list of plant materials that are rabbit-resistant. Apart from barriers, using plants that a particular animal will avoid is your best bet. However, I would like to mention that chicken wire is not the only barrier option. There are rolls of nicer looking hardware mesh/cloth and garden border fencing, the latter sometimes coated in a colored vinyl material, that come in a variety of widths. You might effectively use something in the green range around your shrubs, and have it blend. Once the plants are better established the enclosures might [I say might] be removed. But remember, in the hardest of droughts, critters will eat about anything to get a little water. Here's the list from a new book I received when I took my advanced tree care training recently. It's Eric Johnson's Pruning, Planting and Care in a series on Plants for the Arid West. [Aurora-Sherryl, are you reading too?!?!] Carissa species Centaurea species Dalea greggii Euryops pectinatus Fallugia paradoxa Gelsemium sempervirens Geranium species Myoporum species Macfadeana unguis-cacti Nandina domestica Nierembergia species Nerium oleander Plumbago scandens Rhapiolepis species Sormarinus officinalis Salvia species Santolina species Thymus species Vinca major Westringia rosmarinifolia I've seen organic farm/garden supply catalogs advertise predator urine with which you could "mark" your yard. I'll look it up for you if you are seriously interested in this option. You would need to spray it periodically, but we're, after all, a land of little rain. However, you mentioned that you already have fox on the property?? Linda Guy Master Gardener Bluisaz@aol.com wrote: > My husband and I live in an adult community where we have alot of natural wild life ie; fox, cottontails, quail and a chickmunk. Unable to place a fence around our yard, what can we do about the "Rabbit's"? Are there any plants that the rabbit's would not eat? chicken wire cages are not our cup of tea.... > Our other quiery is about a Hibiscus tree that we planted in to a container last summer.. it has not produced any new blooms and had developed small yellow leaves...I gave it ironite and it had improved somewhat, but it has not grown.... > I was then told that maybe it was not getting enough sun, so I took it out of the 5 gallon container and planted it in the yard that faces west. > When I took the Hibiscus out of the container to plant it, I noticed that the root system was very thin and had not grown very much since last summer. > Is there any hope? > What can we to do to save this tree? > I hope that I have given you enough information. I will thank you in advance for you response.. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lsscott@uswest.net Wed Mar 14 16:46:37 2001 From: lsscott@uswest.net (lsscott@uswest.net) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:46:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103141646.f2EGkb003516@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what kind of ferterlizer do you use forqueen palm trees From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 17:05:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:05:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemongrass References: <200103010537.WAA29960@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAFA4DE.B0E64FB@qwest.net> Your ability to find lemongrass may relate to which one you are seeking. The one that is widely used [especially in Thai cuisine] in Asian cooking can grow here, though Sunset Western Garden book says otherwise, if it is watered very regularly. A bit of afternoon summer sun protection doesn't hurt either. It can get a little chlorotic looking, but it can be beautiful when it establishes itself, 2-3' tall and equally wide. This is Cymbopogon citratus, and most nurseries will begin to sell it soon. You will also be able to find it at this month's plant sale at the Desert Botanical Gardens, if prior year history is any indication. The lemon grass know as Cymbopogon flexuosus, is used as an essential oil. [I am familiar with this because, as an adjunct to my massage/bodywork practice, I am also a certified aromatherapist.] I have both growing in my yard, but the latter is not so much like an ornamental grass as it is a largish mound of, well, narrow-leafed grass! The former is very wide bladed and the leaves are sharp. C. flexuosus is smaller, softer and drapier. I found this at my local nursery, Baker's, who has a source for locally grown organic herbs. I've never seen it anywhere else. Linda Guy Master Gardener Mexvella@aol.com wrote: > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 17:10:31 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:10:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro Care References: <200103080216.f282GAV02295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAFA607.83E40B9D@qwest.net> I think that the folks at the Desert Botanical Gardens do a bang-up job of answering questions on succulents and cactus. They are available to answer your questions M-F, 10 - 11:30 am at 480-941-1225. They simply have superior knowledge than do we server participants. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener tm9hlz4az@swlink.net wrote: > I have a 10'saguaro that was planted in my front yard about 10 years ago. Last year it had only one flower blossom. This cactus has always had a very light green color while other cacti nearby look much darker green. Any cause for concern?? Would fertilizer or ironite be appropriate ?? > > Thanks for your help. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 17:07:47 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 10:07:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellow Turf patches References: <200103062341.f26NfiV29218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AAFA563.77D61724@qwest.net> I assume this is appearing in a winter lawn [rye], and my first inclination is to ask you if there are dogs using your lawn as the local hydrant? You might like to trot through our lawn chapter in the Master Gardener Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ for additional assistance. Did anyone else have some ideas for you? Linda Guy Master Gardener candijet1@home.com wrote: > I have brown, yellow circles on my grass. It's turf grass. How do I get rid of these circles and what are they? thank you > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From EPatti@aol.com Wed Mar 14 18:11:15 2001 From: EPatti@aol.com (EPatti@aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 11:11:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103141811.f2EIBF023378@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I turn a green lawn into desert From kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Mar 14 21:00:08 2001 From: kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Kathleen Peterson) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 14:00:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314133251.00b13d00@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_7832532==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Are these desert trees in the turf area? Generally desert trees do not do well in turf areas because they do not like to have their feet wet. If these trees are in a grassy area, the water that you apply to the grass in the summer will be used by the grass (and some will evaporate), the trees will not be able to use this water. At the extension office we recommend watering trees once a week in the summer and once a month in the winter (much, much less for established desert trees) to a depth of 3-5 feet. The amount of water applied and the duration of watering will depend on soil type and is best measured using a soil probe. Applying on 0.18" of water to your desert trees will eventually lead to salt build up (the salts need to be leached below the root zone with deep, infrequent watering). Again, the water applied to your turf is used by the turf, not the trees so skipping irrigation in the summer because you are increasing the water applied to the turf is probably not wise if these are young trees (i.e. planted in the last year or so). __________________________________________________ Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Kathleen Peterson Instructional Specialist Maricopa County Cooperative Extension (602) 470-8086 ext. 306 --=====================_7832532==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Are these desert trees in the turf area?  Generally desert trees do not do well in turf areas because they do not like to have their feet wet.  If these trees are in a grassy area, the water that you apply to the grass in the summer will be used by the grass (and some will evaporate), the trees will not be able to use this water.

 At the extension office we recommend watering trees once a week in the summer and once a month in the winter (much, much less for established desert trees) to a depth of 3-5 feet.  The amount of water applied and the duration of watering will depend on soil type and is best measured using a soil probe.    Applying on 0.18" of water to your desert trees will eventually lead to salt build up (the salts need to be leached below the root zone with deep, infrequent watering).  Again, the water applied to your turf is used by the turf, not the trees so skipping irrigation in the summer because you are increasing the water applied to the turf is probably not wise if these are young trees (i.e. planted in the last year or so).


__________________________________________________

Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST)
From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net
To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page
At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees?
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener






Kathleen Peterson
Instructional Specialist
Maricopa County Cooperative Extension
(602) 470-8086   ext. 306 --=====================_7832532==_.ALT-- From wwhip34@aol.com Wed Mar 14 21:07:53 2001 From: wwhip34@aol.com (wwhip34@aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 14:07:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103142107.f2EL7r004749@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would appreciate a list of trees that can be grown in some sort of container or pot. I intend them for a 17' by 19' atrium or court yard surrounded by walls and with a tile floor. Water is avaiable. Thank you Warren Whipple From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Mar 14 21:49:39 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 14:49:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spring Plant Sale & Landscaping Festival at Boyce Thompson Arboretum Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314144402.00ab0100@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_24487825==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed University of Arizona Boyce Thompson Arboretum Spring Plant Sale & Landscaping Festival Friday, March 16 through Sunday, April 1, 2001 8 am - 5 pm A diverse and abundant selection of drought-tolerant plant material for use in Arizona! Trees, shrubs, vines, groundcovers, perennials, cacti and other succulents, Flowering plants of all sorts. Walking through this lovely garden will show you the many ways in which drought-tolerant plants can create beauty in your home landscape! An easy scenic drive Bring lunch and enjoy a picnic in the Arboretum's tree-shaded picnic area. More information: 520-689-2811, http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu Boyce Thompson Arboretum is cooperatively managed by the University of Arizona, Arizona State Parks, and the nonprofit Arboretum corporation. Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_24487825==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
University of Arizona
Boyce Thompson Arboretum

Spring Plant Sale & Landscaping Festival

Friday, March 16 through Sunday, April 1, 2001
8 am - 5 pm

A diverse and abundant selection of drought-tolerant plant material for use in Arizona!  Trees, shrubs, vines, groundcovers, perennials, cacti and other succulents, Flowering plants of all sorts.

Walking through this lovely garden will show you the many ways in which drought-tolerant plants can create beauty in your home landscape!

An easy scenic drive

Bring lunch and enjoy a picnic in the Arboretum's tree-shaded picnic area.

More information: 520-689-2811, http://arboretum.ag.arizona.edu

Boyce Thompson Arboretum is cooperatively managed by the University of Arizona, Arizona State Parks, and the nonprofit Arboretum corporation.


Carol Noyes
Administrative Secretary
Maricopa County
Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs

602-470-8086  Ext. 308

Have a wonderful day!!

 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_24487825==_.ALT-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Mar 14 22:38:49 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:38:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314133251.00b13d00@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AAFF2F9.BFE18360@email.sps.mot.com> Kathleen, You bring up another question I have. Are you familiar with the Garden Guy on azfamily.com? I was surprised to read in his latest article at that site a recommendation for citrus. He said we water citrus way to much, and that we should only water citrus trees once every 3 to 4 weeks in the summer. Far different than what I've read in the past. I've always read once per week in the summer, and once per month in the winter. Can you give any insight or additional input on this? It sounds great if it works. It would definitely reduce my water bill. Thanks, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Kathleen Peterson wrote: > > At the extension office we recommend watering trees once a week in > the summer and once a month in the winter (much, much less for > established desert trees) to a depth of 3-5 feet. The amount of water > applied and the duration of watering will depend on soil type and is > best measured using a soil probe. > Kathleen PetersonInstructional SpecialistMaricopa County Cooperative > Extension(602) 470-8086 ext. 306 From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 14 22:57:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:57:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemongrass References: <200103010537.WAA29960@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AAFA4DE.B0E64FB@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AAFF74E.19C66477@qwest.net> Further to my first reply, I found a note in my garden journal suggesting that the less common lemongrass will prefer shade in summer. I also made a note that it was purchased at Desert Winds in North Phoenix, which surprises me, but I know that I was up there around the time of my journal entry. Linda Linda Guy wrote: > Your ability to find lemongrass may relate to which one you are seeking. The one that is widely used [especially in Thai cuisine] in Asian cooking can grow here, though > Sunset Western Garden book says otherwise, if it is watered very regularly. A bit of afternoon summer sun protection doesn't hurt either. It can get a little chlorotic > looking, but it can be beautiful when it establishes itself, 2-3' tall and equally wide. This is Cymbopogon citratus, and most nurseries will begin to sell it soon. You > will also be able to find it at this month's plant sale at the Desert Botanical Gardens, if prior year history is any indication. > > The lemon grass know as Cymbopogon flexuosus, is used as an essential oil. [I am familiar with this because, as an adjunct to my massage/bodywork practice, I am also a > certified aromatherapist.] I have both growing in my yard, but the latter is not so much like an ornamental grass as it is a largish mound of, well, narrow-leafed grass! > The former is very wide bladed and the leaves are sharp. C. flexuosus is smaller, softer and drapier. > > I found this at my local nursery, Baker's, who has a source for locally grown organic herbs. I've never seen it anywhere else. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > Mexvella@aol.com wrote: > > > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Mar 14 23:11:49 2001 From: kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Kathleen Peterson) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 16:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] In-Reply-To: <3AAFF2F9.BFE18360@email.sps.mot.com> References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314133251.00b13d00@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> Allan, Yes, I am familiar with Dave Owen's "The Garden Guy". I did not, however see this article. Watering recommendations are extremely difficult to make across the board. It does depend somewhat on your soil (with a very heavy clay soil you might be able to get away with such infrequent watering), the age and care of the tree, type of irrigation (flood vs. drip), the severity of the summer etc. If you would like to experiment with this watering schedule, I would say pay attention to your tree. Look for signs of drought stress such as drooping leaves. If you wish to stay with your current schedule, you may to look for signs of over watering such as complete yellowing of leaves (not to be confused with inter veinal yellowing which is attributed to iron deficiency at this time of year). In either case, a slow deep watering 3-5 feet down in the soil is recommended (this is how deep water goes in flood irrigation and people with flood irrigation sure have beautiful citrus don't they?) to leach the salts below the root zone. Please read AZ 1151 Irrigation Needs of Citrus http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus for the extension recommendations. Kathleen Peterson Instructional Specialist Maricopa County Cooperative Extension (602) 470-8086 ext. 306 From umiller@azdps.com Wed Mar 14 23:15:40 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 16:15:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Dogs! and Rabbits In-Reply-To: <3AAF9809.8DE92F6D@qwest.net> Message-ID: Wouldn't having a dog out there also keep the rabbits away? Rabbits run away from me and I'm just a mild-mannered human. So having a dog in the area - even in a fence - might do the trick for the bunnies, too. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Guy Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 9:11 AM To: Sherryl Stalinski Cc: Arid_gardener Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Dogs! As to the DOGS, [I think I've given you food enough for thought in another's reply vis the rabbits] we recently installed a chain link fence with a gate to keep them in the third of our backyard which is not visible from our patio and away from the cultivated areas. This is where the kids have always played, too [a 10-ton sand pile, the rabbit's 20' pen under a tree and the trampoline are/were all back there]. I just couldn't fight my terrier's natural instinct to dig, and when I lost $50 worth of habranthus and zephyranthes [rain lilies] bulbs 6 weeks ago, running a 16' stretch in a hidden area that was also the narrowest portion of the yard was our simple solution. [Sandy is pouting; she wants me to be sure to say that she didn't START the dig, but her visiting friend Kiki, a 120-pound Akita, started what ultimately became the size of a shallow grave. Sorry to have appeared to blame you girl!] With a gate, it is easy to let her run all over the place when we are outdoors, but keep her in an area where we don't mind her 'lapses' shall we say, because they happen away from the gardens and pond. By the way, I'm thinking of putting either grapes or a flowering vine over the fence. Also, there are electric barrier options, with either 'hot' wires or radio signals, that mildly jolt and are said to train dogs. It was just easier for us to accept our beloved pound puppy for what she is and give her space of her own. We are ALL much happier now! Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Please share your experience: > My dogs keep eating everything I plant in "their" yard (including > ocotillo and existing cholla!). It seems nothing shy of a 3 ply, 3 foot > fence of chicken wire protects my young trees and shrubs. Since we *do* > share our backyard with these spoiled mutts (blame my spouse and > offspring) I *would* like to SEE what I plant instead of a yard dotted > with chicken wire cylinders. > > Anyone try any creative home remedy deterrants with luck? > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From dfmk@home.com Thu Mar 15 00:56:23 2001 From: dfmk@home.com (dfmk@home.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 17:56:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103150056.f2F0uN014518@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Costco had a good price on some flower bulbs marked for sale in 2001. I purchased some thinking I would plant them next fall. What would be the best way to store them? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 15 01:16:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 20:16:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fertilizing Palms Message-ID: The nutrient requirements of palms are special and you should use a fertilizer specially designed for palms. Check out this website on palm tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 15 03:36:37 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 20:36:37 -0700 Subject: [Fwd: [Arid_gardener] A few upcoming gardens tours /Walk in the Gardens Tour May 5th] Message-ID: <3AB038C5.BA332612@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------89DD607E02AE48CBDF729B4C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Note to the list: Here is another upcoming garden tour for those who are interested. I think its great that we are getting this information in and able to share it. Sue Bass List Manager --------------89DD607E02AE48CBDF729B4C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 13066 invoked by uid 0); 14 Mar 2001 22:50:54 -0000 Received: from mail9.uswest.net (204.147.80.27) by phnxpop4.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Mar 2001 22:50:54 -0000 Received: (qmail 52254 invoked from network); 14 Mar 2001 22:50:50 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO tch-azmail.lodge) (12.22.192.3) by mail9.uswest.net with SMTP; 14 Mar 2001 22:50:50 -0000 Received: by mail.tch-az.com with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) id ; Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:50:56 -0700 Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 15:50:55 -0700 Message-ID: From: "Peggy Wirtala" To: "'sjbass@qwest.net'" Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] A few upcoming gardens tours /Walk in the Gar dens Tour May 5th MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) Content-Type: text/plain X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 I saw a request for information on garden tours on arid-gardener e-mail on March the 10th. I am so proud to announce that Circle G Ranches community is having a Walk in the Gardens Tour Saturday May 5th in Tempe Az. Included is Grandpa Charlies Garden a 1 1/2 acre Horticultural Therapy Garden situated on the Campus of TCH ( The Centers for Habilitation ) . The proceeds of the Tour will be donated to TCH ( Grandpa Charlies Garden) which improve the Quality of Life for our consumers, with physical , or developmental disabilities, and their families with non-traditional employment and business opportunities for TCH consumers. Using passive and active horticulture therapy . Includes barrier-free Greenhouse, raised beds, rose arbor, ramada's, water features., beautiful flowers, mediteranian herb garden, Childrens garden and much more. Can you tell I love my job and it's surroundings. We would be honored if you all came to visit for the Tour including many other beautiful gardens threw out the Circle G Community the Community with a Heart ( I just made that up but it's true) . Tickets are on sale at the TCH lobby desk . For more information please contact. Seeds of Hope and Joy Peggy Wirtala Manager - Grandpa Charlies Garden (602) 980 - 0716 wk cell (480) 838 - 8111 x 145 > -----Original Message----- > From: Sue Bass [SMTP:sjbass@qwest.net] > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2001 8:57 AM > To: tcarillon@hotmail.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] A few upcoming gardens tours > > You can find information on the Mesa-East Valley Rose Society's Annual > Rose Garden Tour and BBQ at our website: http://www.roses4AZ-mevrs.org/ > It will take place on April 21st. Scroll down to the section entitled > "Meetings and Events" for all of the details. > Also, if you go the Maricopa County Home Horticulture page and select > EVENTS from the left-hand column, you will find, if you scroll down the > event calendar, a listing for the 6th Annual Garden Tour on March 31st. > Details can be found on this page. > > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > tcarillon@hotmail.com wrote: > > > I have enjoyed the March and April garden tours I have gone on in the > past years; however, it is always hard to get the information as to when > and which tours are scheduled. Sometimes I'll see it in the Republic, > other times in Phoenix Home and Garden, etc. I'm not talking about the > expensive Garden Conservancy tours - just the local garden clubs,etc. How > can I find out more about these? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------89DD607E02AE48CBDF729B4C-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 15 15:12:55 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:12:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AB0DBF7.FBE7F937@email.sps.mot.com> Kathleen, Here is the link to his article: http://www.azfamily.com/homecook/garden/archives/20010307.html Maybe I'm reading it wrong...tell me what you think. The section I'm talking about says: I water at three- to four-week intervals during the summer once they are established. Overwatering is a major problem, so be careful. I see more overwatering problems with citrus than any other. The best thing to remember is that the moisture must penetrate at least 3 feet into the soil. Maybe it's his soil...it just seems like a long time in the summer. I will heed your advise :) ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Kathleen Peterson wrote: > Allan, > Yes, I am familiar with Dave Owen's "The Garden Guy". I did not, however > see this article. Watering recommendations are extremely difficult to make > across the board. It does depend somewhat on your soil (with a very heavy > clay soil you might be able to get away with such infrequent watering), the > age and care of the tree, type of irrigation (flood vs. drip), the severity > of the summer etc. If you would like to experiment with this watering > schedule, I would say pay attention to your tree. Look for signs of > drought stress such as drooping leaves. If you wish to stay with your > current schedule, you may to look for signs of over watering such as > complete yellowing of leaves (not to be confused with inter veinal > yellowing which is attributed to iron deficiency at this time of > year). In either case, a slow deep watering 3-5 feet down in the soil > is recommended (this is how deep water goes in flood irrigation and people > with flood irrigation sure have beautiful citrus don't they?) to leach the > salts below the root zone. > > Please read AZ 1151 Irrigation Needs of Citrus > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Citrus > for the extension recommendations. > > Kathleen Peterson > Instructional Specialist > Maricopa County Cooperative Extension > (602) 470-8086 ext. 306 From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 15 16:20:01 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:20:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> <3AB0DBF7.FBE7F937@email.sps.mot.com> Message-ID: <3AB0EBB1.52714D3E@AuroraNow.org> > Overwatering is a major problem, so be careful. I see more > overwatering problems with citrus than any other. The best thing to remember is > that the moisture must penetrate at least 3 feet into the soil. For what it's worth, when we first moved here to AZ the house we were leasing had several citrus trees and not knowing the first thing about citrus care, I never fertilized them and only watered them deeply every 2-3 weeks pretty much year round. Silly me, I just assumed if they were growing in AZ, they could do just fine with what mother nature provided. Since we were in dry years, I figured all they needed was some supplemental water. Since the fruit was so great, I saw no reason to investigate any further. Granted, these were large, mature trees that I'm sure could survive my ignorance, but I had great crops on them for the two years we were in the house. Once we had forgotten to water them for almost a month in the summer (pre-monsoon) and the leaves started to curl a bit, but after one good soaking, they perked right back up. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu Thu Mar 15 16:37:33 2001 From: kpetersn@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Kathleen Peterson) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 09:37:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] In-Reply-To: <3AB0DC24.3B7B5B63@email.sps.mot.com> References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314161157.00afb380@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010315092737.00b0b270@ag.arizona.edu> Alan, thank you for sending the link to the article. Olin, thank you for all the research pulling the links to other articles. I think that illustrates how much recommendations can vary when it comes to watering (even within one entity). Watering is not an exact science and the advice can vary from tree to tree, soil to soil. I will say again, pay attention to your trees, and see if you are getting any signs of drought stress or over watering. Check the soil to make sure it drys out in between watering and that you are reaching a depth of 3 to 5 feet (using a soil probe). The guidelines given by the U of A extension service are just that, guidelines. We recommend what we have found to be successful, that does not mean that on a case by case basis your own watering practices will not be successful. I know it is very confusing to have so many conflicting numbers, but I hope this discussion has been of some help. Please let me know if I can clear up any further confusion (or if I have made it worse!) Kathleen Peterson Instructional Specialist Maricopa County Cooperative Extension (602) 470-8086 ext. 306 From loberch@yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 17:09:42 2001 From: loberch@yahoo.com (loberch@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:09:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103151709.f2FH9g017483@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I identify a tree that I have? I also need to know why it seems to be dying and how to fix it? From loberch@yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 17:10:30 2001 From: loberch@yahoo.com (loberch@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:10:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103151710.f2FHAU018013@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I identify a tree that I have? I also need to know why it seems to be dying and how to fix it? From loberch@yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 17:13:39 2001 From: loberch@yahoo.com (loberch@yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:13:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103151713.f2FHDd018511@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I find what kind of tree I own? I also need to know why it seems to be dying and how do I fix it? From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 15 17:50:50 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:50:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103151710.f2FHAU018013@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB100FA.A45A8C1C@AuroraNow.org> Can you describe the tree? What shape are the leaves? How big are the leaves? How do the leaves grow on the branches (compound, in pairs or alternated?) How large is the tree? What color is the trunk and what does the bark (if present) look like? Where do you live (low deserts of Phoenix or Tucson, or higher, colder elevation)? Some natives actually lose some of their leaves this time of year after frosts. Why do you think it's dying? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 15 17:41:39 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:41:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> <3AB0DBF7.FBE7F937@email.sps.mot.com> Message-ID: <001c01c0ad77$52b9ddc0$a353530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Zelhart" > Kathleen, > Here is the link to his article: > http://www.azfamily.com/homecook/garden/archives/20010307.html > ... > ... Overwatering is a major problem, so be careful. I see more > overwatering problems with citrus than any other. > .. In my experience, it is pretty difficult to over water citrus if one has decent drainage. As Kathleen mentioned, take a look at the healthy trees on flood irrigation. But I see lots of underwatered citrus, especially true with drip irrigation. I believe the recommended biweekly summer and monthly winter watering schedules had more to do with SRP's water delivery schedules than the needs of the trees. -Olin From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 15 17:54:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 10:54:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> <3AB0DBF7.FBE7F937@email.sps.mot.com> <001c01c0ad77$52b9ddc0$a353530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <3AB101C8.506CEDC3@qwest.net> An interesting twist on your message, Olin. I've heard Terry Mikel suggest more than once that SRP developed it irrigation schedules with the optimal health of the citrus groves in mind! Evidently the board is full of crafty farmers!! Linda olin wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Zelhart" > > Kathleen, > > Here is the link to his article: > > http://www.azfamily.com/homecook/garden/archives/20010307.html > > ... > > ... Overwatering is a major problem, so be careful. I see more > > overwatering problems with citrus than any other. > > .. > > In my experience, it is pretty difficult to over water citrus if one has > decent drainage. As Kathleen mentioned, take a look at the healthy trees on > flood irrigation. But I see lots of underwatered citrus, especially true > with drip irrigation. I believe the recommended biweekly summer and monthly > winter watering schedules had more to do with SRP's water delivery schedules > than the needs of the trees. -Olin > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 15 20:08:22 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 13:08:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010314160007.00ae8a30@ag.arizona.edu> <3AB0DBF7.FBE7F937@email.sps.mot.com> <001c01c0ad77$52b9ddc0$a353530c@j0r9501> <3AB101C8.506CEDC3@qwest.net> Message-ID: <001f01c0ad8b$d26b9860$4f51530c@j0r9501> A chicken and egg syndrome? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: "olin" Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 10:54 AM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation ADOT [Arid_Gardener] > An interesting twist on your message, Olin. I've heard Terry Mikel suggest more > than once that SRP developed it irrigation schedules with the optimal health of > the citrus groves in mind! Evidently the board is full of crafty farmers!! From TMMills@aol.com Thu Mar 15 21:57:38 2001 From: TMMills@aol.com (TMMills@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 16:57:38 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Designing drip systems. Message-ID: <4f.8cc4123.27e294d2@aol.com> I AM INTERESTED IN OBTAINING A BOOK OR MANUAL DEVOTED TO THE DESIGN OF DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEMS WITH RECOMMENDATIONS FOR RATE OF FLOW TO DESERT AND OTHER PLANTS. I HAVE A HUNTER TECHNICAL MANUAL WHICH IS GOOD FOR PIPING SYSTEM DESIGN, BUT I NEED SOMETHING MORE BASIC TO DEAL WITH THE PLANTS AND THEIR WATER REQUIREMENTS. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP. tmmills@aol.com From sallyintonopah@aol.com Thu Mar 15 22:43:25 2001 From: sallyintonopah@aol.com (sallyintonopah@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 15:43:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103152243.f2FMhP029920@Ag.Arizona.Edu> what herbicide can y use on tumble weeds to kill From jav20@airmail.net Fri Mar 16 02:14:37 2001 From: jav20@airmail.net (Javier Nieto) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 20:14:37 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean Message-ID: <3AB1770D.852974D4@airmail.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------EFAE5E1CDA8B603F373DC905 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have recently come upon an email that you submitted to another individual that was interested in t he castor bean plant. I as well am interested but for another reason. I am told that this plant is good to fend off gophers or moles. My father has recently relocated into the Maricopa county are more so, the Tonapah are and has been looking for castor bean seed. Can you please advise me on where to locate such seeds. Thank you Javier Nieto --------------EFAE5E1CDA8B603F373DC905 Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="jav20.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Javier Nieto Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="jav20.vcf" begin:vcard n:Nieto;Javier tel;work:(903) 815-8776 x-mozilla-html:FALSE org:North Texas Chapter adr:;;;;;; version:2.1 email;internet:jav20@airmail.net title:Assigning Secretary fn:Javier Nieto end:vcard --------------EFAE5E1CDA8B603F373DC905-- From brie10799@aol.com Fri Mar 16 03:09:52 2001 From: brie10799@aol.com (brie10799@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 20:09:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103160309.f2G39q016509@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How long will my newly planted crape myrtle tree be dormant? From LAEApple@aol.com Fri Mar 16 06:32:25 2001 From: LAEApple@aol.com (LAEApple@aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 23:32:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103160632.f2G6WP015137@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We just planted Early Girl tomato plants in our garden about 2 weeks ago and they are slowly yellowing from the bottom up. Could they have verticillium and/or fusarium wilt? Also, how often should we be watering them this time of year, and when it gets really hot, how often should we water them? Thank you!! From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 16 13:41:30 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 06:41:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Re: Fwd: Re: Irrigation ADOT References: <002a01c0ad8d$b1b50b40$4f51530c@j0r9501> <3AB2129C.5D5227B@gardenguy.com> Message-ID: <000901c0ae1f$160947a0$4151530c@j0r9501> I sent Dave Owens a complimentary copy of all of the arid_gardener dialogue regarding his recommended citrus watering schedules. Following is his response: -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "gardenguy" To: "olin" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 6:18 AM Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: Irrigation ADOT > On well established deep watered trees I have found this sch to be enough. I > know most trees are not correctly watered and could have developed all types of > rooting problems at the most I would water at 2-3 week intervals again deeply > and infrequently with plenty of compost out to the drip line of the tree. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 14:34:35 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 14:34:35 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tucson Garden Tour April 14 Message-ID: Regarding garden tours, here is information for those in the Tucson area: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 4th Annual Master Gardener HOME GARDEN TOUR Saturday April 14, 2001 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. Our tour will feature working gardens of five Master Gardeners and the Extension Demonstration Gardens (4210 N. Campbell Avenue, Tucson 85719) SEE how the Master Gardeners do it: Desert Landscaping, vegetable and flower gardens, roses, container plants, fruit trees, herbs, water harvesting, composting, and much more ! TALK to the gardeners. Learn their challenges. Get their tips for success. ALL FOR ONLY $5.00 per person (children 12 years old and younger are free). ONE DAY ONLY Saturday, April 14th 2001 9:00am - 3:00pm Purcahse your tickets and self guiding tour map at: Pima County Cooperative Extension 4210 N. Campbell Avenue Tucson, ARIZONA 85719 for more info call: 520-626-5161 QUILT RAFFLE Marcia Reidel and a group of Master Gardeners have created a quilt to be raffled in conjuntion with the tour. The winner will be drawn at the end of the Garden Tour and the winner will be notified by phone. Tickets are $1 each or 6 for $5 and are available at Pima County Cooperative Extension. 520-626-5161 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 14:56:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 14:56:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tucson School Garden Tour March 24 Message-ID: Another tour for those in the Tucson area: --------------------------------------------- 1st Annual TUCSON SCHOOL GARDEN TOUR Saturday March 24, 2001 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. Six schools have been selected to participate: Drachman, Harelson, Ochoa, Pueblo Gardens, Miles Exploratory and Lawrence. Tickets are available at any of the schools or Master Gardeners Pima County Cooperative Extension 4210 N. Campbell Avenue Tucson, Arizona 85719 (520) 626-5161 Tickets are $2 for individuals or $5 for families. All proceeds help the schools. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From mesadn@aol.com Fri Mar 16 17:06:54 2001 From: mesadn@aol.com (mesadn@aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 10:06:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103161706.f2GH6s010911@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have grapefruit tree that has grown largeer than I want for the space I have. when can I trim it?I am still picking fruit, but they will be gone in a week. It is beginning to get blossomss. Will trimming hurt the crop next year? From mesadn@aol.com Fri Mar 16 17:06:55 2001 From: mesadn@aol.com (mesadn@aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 10:06:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103161706.f2GH6t010912@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have grapefruit tree that has grown largeer than I want for the space I have. when can I trim it?I am still picking fruit, but they will be gone in a week. It is beginning to get blossomss. Will trimming hurt the crop next year? From MADASMITH@AOL.COM Fri Mar 16 18:20:19 2001 From: MADASMITH@AOL.COM (MADASMITH@AOL.COM) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 11:20:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103161820.f2GIKJ026591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HELP ME PLEASE!! I have tiff grass and this year I have alot of weeds.Last year I pulled them out but I seem to have too many this year. They are what I call "carrot grass". I don't know if that is the right name or not. They are dark green with curly leaves like a carrot top or curly parsley. What would be a safe weed killer that won't hurt my tiff or do I need to just pull them out?Thank you Debbie From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 22:40:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 22:40:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Green Valley Garden Tour April 7 Message-ID: tour information for those south of the Tucson area: ---------------------------------------------------- Green Valley Garden Tour Saturday, April 7, 2001 10 a.m. till 4 p.m. sponsored by Green Valley Gardeners of America proceeds benefit community projects tickets: donation $5 available at Camilot Flowers, Greenbelt Nursery, G.V. Chamber of Commerce, G.V. Flowers & Gifts, G.V. Wells Fargo Bank. And at the East Center 9 a.m. Saturday April 7 _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 22:51:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 22:51:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: weeds in grass Message-ID: (sorry I responded to the sender but forgot to copy my answer to the listserv). A product such as "Round-up" can be used now to spot treat the weeds, but it will kill any turf that is actively growing, so use very carefully. Focus on getting the lawn healthy and vigorously growing to choke out weeds. Check out the Lawns chapter in the Master Gardener manual for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: MADASMITH@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 11:20:19 -0700 (MST) > >HELP ME PLEASE!! I have tiff grass and this year I have alot of weeds.Last >year I pulled them out but I seem to have too many this year. They are what >I call "carrot grass". I don't know if that is the right name or not. They >are dark green with curly leaves like a carrot top or curly parsley. What >would be a safe weed killer that won't hurt my tiff or do I need to just >pull them out?Thank you >Debbie > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 23:03:28 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:03:28 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: pruning citrus Message-ID: The general advice for citrus is "don't prune". Citrus grows naturally as a shrub and some, especially grapefruit, can eventually get quite large. The branches are susceptible to sunburn if exposed to sunlight. And sunburn damage can lead to other problems. Pruning may be necessary to remove suckers (watersprouts), to remove undesirable or dead wood, to remove crossing or rubbing branches. If you do remove limbs, protect those that remain from sunburn (whitwash trunks and branches, cover with burlap or news- paper). If you decide you must prune, follow good pruning techniques, prune in the early Spring and protect exposed wood from sunburn. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mesadn@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 10:06:55 -0700 (MST) > >I have grapefruit tree that has grown largeer than I want for the space I >have. when can I trim it?I am still picking fruit, but they will be gone >in a week. It is beginning to get blossomss. Will trimming hurt the crop >next year? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 16 23:56:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:56:03 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tumble weeds, controling Message-ID: Tumble weeds are very difficult to kill with a chemical unless they are treated when they are less than 3 inches tall. Roundup and Diquat are two chemicals that will work at that stage. Diquat will work faster but must be applied several times for a complete kill. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 16 23:56:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:56:00 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus Message-ID: You should not prune off more than 15% from your citrus tree at one time and do not prune off enough so that the limbs or trunk are exposed to sunshine or the tree will get sun burned unless you paint the trunk with water based white paint or wrap with burlap. It would be ok to prune now. Any time you remove foliage or limbs from a plant or tree you reduce its capacity to manufacture food. Check out this website on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From spreenz@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 00:20:37 2001 From: spreenz@hotmail.com (spreenz@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 17:20:37 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103170020.f2H0Kb005296@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I care for my Queen Palm Trees. Frons are stunted and light green or almost yellow colored. Older frons bend and break easley. The trees are mature (20 feet and over 15 years old) From spreenz@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 00:21:16 2001 From: spreenz@hotmail.com (spreenz@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 17:21:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103170021.f2H0LG005365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I care for my Queen Palm Trees. Frons are stunted and light green or almost yellow colored. Older frons bend and break easley. The trees are mature (20 feet and over 15 years old) From Landlightdesign@aol.com Sat Mar 17 01:02:51 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:02:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #64 - 19 msgs Message-ID: <4d.8d4c77e.27e411bb@aol.com> --part1_4d.8d4c77e.27e411bb_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Arizona Municipal water users association: www.amwua.org Guidelines for landscape drip irrigation systems (free) The Irrigation association: www.irrrigation.org, e-mail education@irrigation.org Turf irrigation manual The American society of agricultural engineers: e-mail hq@asae.org Landscape irrigation design ISBN 0-929355-61x Ortho all about sprinklers and drip U of A (AZ1048) care of desert adapted plants Sunset books Garden watering systems Simon & Schuster ISBN: 0-671-73856-9 Water wise Gardening Rainbird and Toro both have new (free) Drip design booklets check with your local irrigation distributor Paul --part1_4d.8d4c77e.27e411bb_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Arizona Municipal water users association: www.amwua.org
Guidelines for landscape drip irrigation systems (free)

The Irrigation association: www.irrrigation.org, e-mail
education@irrigation.org
Turf irrigation manual

The American society of agricultural engineers: e-mail  hq@asae.org
Landscape irrigation design ISBN 0-929355-61x

Ortho
all about sprinklers and drip

U of A (AZ1048)
care of desert adapted plants

Sunset books
Garden watering systems

Simon & Schuster ISBN: 0-671-73856-9
Water wise Gardening

Rainbird and Toro both have new (free) Drip design booklets
check with your local irrigation distributor


Paul --part1_4d.8d4c77e.27e411bb_boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 03:13:05 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 20:13:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Care of Queen Palms References: <200103170021.f2H0LG005365@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB2D641.FEC6E690@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to our archives and one response in particular which you can view at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-February/006220.html Another response also addresses Manganese deficiency in Queen Palms. You can view this response at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/2623.html Both responses are from Master Gardener and Arborist, Rod McKusik. We get a lot of questions regarding Queen Palms and their care. If you go to the archives page at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in Queen Palms you can view many. Sue Bass Master Gardener spreenz@hotmail.com wrote: > How do I care for my Queen Palm Trees. > Frons are stunted and light green or almost yellow colored. Older frons bend and break easley. > The trees are mature (20 feet and over 15 years old) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat Mar 17 14:35:45 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:35:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Crape Myrtle Message-ID: --part1_c.12b2e624.27e4d041_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi, I planted a Crape Myrtle last year and it has just begun to come out of dormancy this week. Mine was already leafed out when I planted it last year. I've had trouble with the tree since it doesn't like our alkaline soil. I also had trouble with salt burn, & birds defoliating the new leaves. I hope to have less trouble this season. I've placed a rose arbor over it and am growing a vine over the arbor in hopes of giving it a bit of afternoon shade during the hot summer. You may have transplant shock to contend with which might delay the tree from coming out of dormancy. Now that the weather is warming up I'd expect to see some bud swelling soon. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ --part1_c.12b2e624.27e4d041_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi,

I planted a Crape Myrtle last year and it has just begun to come out of
dormancy this week.  Mine was already leafed out when I planted it last year.
 I've had trouble with the tree since it doesn't like our alkaline soil.  I
also had trouble with salt burn, & birds defoliating the new leaves.  I hope
to have less trouble this season.  I've placed a rose arbor over it and am
growing a vine over the arbor in hopes of giving it a bit of afternoon shade
during the hot summer.  You may have transplant shock to contend with which
might delay the tree from coming out of dormancy.  Now that the weather is
warming up I'd expect to see some bud swelling soon.

JeanSciFi@aol.com
Master Gardener
Apache Junction,AZ --part1_c.12b2e624.27e4d041_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 14:55:44 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 07:55:44 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Epsom Salts Message-ID: <3AB37AF0.5539280D@qwest.net> Now this is the umpteenth time I've read about using epsom salts, this time on roses, as often about palm trees. Can anyone provide me the skinny on its use? Please let me know if your info is anecdotal or if you have learned about it in a class or there's some research. Any issues on salt buildup, beyond that which any chemical fertilizer can do. Maybe, if I can tell my clients it's also good for their yards, I might just get them to buy some to soak in for muscle problems and general detox. Linda Guy Master Gardenery & Massage Therapist! From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 14:59:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 07:59:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bulb Storage References: <200103150056.f2F0uN014518@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB37BE9.3D89F97B@qwest.net> Store in a cool, dark place in paper bags, not plastic. Linda Guy Master Gardener dfmk@home.com wrote: > Costco had a good price on some flower bulbs marked for sale in 2001. I purchased some thinking I would plant them next fall. What would be the best way to store them? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 15:05:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:05:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Lemongrass References: <30.11d3cc9e.27e1a57d@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AB37D25.2C8D23B9@qwest.net> --------------D8A0A693A430A439FC5B47D1 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I earned my certification as an aromatherapist in a 6-month program taught by nationally renowned and published authors, Carol Schiller and David Schiller. At the time they were teaching it through the ARE Medical Clinic which is located in my neighborhood. It is also available as a home study option, but that's not nearly as fun or informative as learning with a group and hearing how other formulas that you may not have tried worked for the other students' subjects. You can reach the Schiller clan at docaroma@aol.com and check out the website of the Intl Aromatherapy and Herb Assn, which they organized, at http://www.iaha.homestead.com/ Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener & Certified Aromatherapist Mexvella@aol.com wrote: > Linda, > Thank you for the info. on the Lemongrass. I have not grown it , but > now I > will. I grow alot of herbs for friends and make alot of things from my > herbs > for them. And Lemongrass has come up afew times. I hear it is good > with > chicken and makes a great candle. I have just been doing this for 2 > years, > growing herbs and wildflowers but iI love it. I have always used herbs > and > flowers for home remedies, but growing your own is the best. I am > taking > classes on the net. learning about herbal medicine it is so > interesting. > Aroma therapy is great. How did you get certified? Sorry I talk so > much but > it so interesting to me that when I get started I can not stop. My > daughters > use to use thier little mixes on me for massages and love it when I > make > them something out of the garden. My grandchilren are also planting > now and > do better than thier moms both are 6 yrs old. Thank you again for your > time > and your ear. > Marvella Rodriguez --------------D8A0A693A430A439FC5B47D1 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I earned my certification as an aromatherapist in a 6-month program taught by nationally renowned and published authors, Carol Schiller and David Schiller. At the time they were teaching it through the ARE Medical Clinic which is located in my neighborhood. It is also available as a home study option, but that's not nearly as fun or informative as learning with a group and hearing how other formulas that you may not have tried worked for the other students' subjects.

You can reach the Schiller clan at docaroma@aol.com  and check out the website of the Intl Aromatherapy and Herb Assn, which they organized, at http://www.iaha.homestead.com/

Good luck!
Linda Guy
Master Gardener &
Certified Aromatherapist

Mexvella@aol.com wrote:

Linda,
Thank you for the info. on the Lemongrass. I have not grown it , but now I
will. I grow alot of herbs for friends and make alot of things from my herbs
for them. And Lemongrass has come up afew times. I hear it is good with
chicken and makes a great candle. I have just been doing this for 2 years,
growing herbs and wildflowers but iI love it. I have always used herbs and
flowers for home remedies, but growing your own is the best. I am taking
classes on the net. learning about  herbal medicine it is so interesting.
Aroma therapy is great. How did you get certified? Sorry I talk so much but
it so interesting to me that when I get started I can not stop. My daughters
use to use thier  little mixes on me for massages and love it when I make
them something out of the garden. My grandchilren are also planting now and
do better than thier moms both are 6 yrs old. Thank you again for your time
and your ear.
Marvella Rodriguez
--------------D8A0A693A430A439FC5B47D1-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 15:27:10 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:27:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Relocation from Maryland References: <200103121524.f2CFOA013339@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB3824E.E5A91A1@qwest.net> Hello fellow Marylander! You will find this an amazing but different type of place in which to garden. First of all, to truly succeed, you need to understand that most of what grew elsewhere had such dramatically different conditions that the plant materials and the gardening practices you swore by on the mid-Atlantic coast will in most cases, not "transplant" [ahem] here. If you are open to the wondrous pallette of local and adapted vegetation, which can be lush and colorful, you've won the battle before you've even started! You've come to the right place for all sorts of good information, having reached the website of the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension. Starting from the home page, http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ You can find an incredible amount of info. Timely Tips tells you what to do, what pests are happening, what to plant, etc, on a monthly basis. Publications will be another place of interest. You have options to look at stuff specific to our county or peruse the UA's data banks too. Plants will show you some links for plant id data bases. The Recommended Reading and Links items all have good material too. If you are going to landscape with natives, personal favorite books are Judy Mielke's Native Plants for SW Landscapes, Eric Johnson's Pruning, Planting & Care and Mary Irish's new book Gardening in the Desert. And there are a number of great public gardens to see, one of which is near me: Desert Botanical Gardens. Other gardens are listed under Horticulture Adventures in the Links section. Vegetable gardening is two season, with our fallow time in July/August. Plants whose roots, shoots, leaves or flowers are eaten are grown in our cool season while plants whose fruits are consumed are already in the ground or are on their way in what is essentially the first part of our warm season. In Publications area you will find a link to books and you can read about one that is tailor-made for newcomers like you Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate. Anything by George Brookbank is excellent, if much more comprehensive than the former. Another resource is the Arizona Municipal Water Users Assoc [AMWUA, fondly] and their website http://www.amwua.org/ will tell you how to get their excellent publications, most of which are either in the nurseries, available from your city's water department or both. They have a brand new and gorgeous book on Xeriscaping which you will want to get. Now all of this advice will cost you two dozen blue crabs when you get out here! Give me a post when you arrive. Linda Guy Maricopa County Master Gardener Former Prince George's County resident eileenchaffee@hotmail.com wrote: > I am planning to relocated from Maryland to the Goodyear area of Arizona near Phoenix, and am wondering about gardening, which is very important to me. Do you have any information about what to garden, when, soil types, shade, too much sun, etc. I would like to plant vegetables, ex., lettuce(s) and some fruits. If you have a brochure regarding information for preparation of my soil and what I can plant and when, I would appreciate anything you can offer. I will be very new to the area and know nothing about Arizona agriculture. Thank you in advance for your cooperation. Eileen Chaffee, 2759 Greene Lane, Baldwin, MD 21013 > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 15:43:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:43:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seed Storage References: <200102202329.QAA28957@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB3862B.1BD8E682@qwest.net> You can maximize the shelf life of your seeds by keeping them in a dark, dry [add some of those dessicant packs] and cool place [not in a coffee can on your potting bench in August, eg!]. Based on personal experience, I've had success up to about three years. I've heard some long time MGs say that seeds for some cool season veggies and herbs [dill, anise, carrots, beets] do not last much beyond their posted season. I'd have to concur, again based solely on personal experience, with the carrots and beets. When I have old flower seeds, I mix them all up with a bit of sand and strew them out on the rock mulch in the front and side yards [didn't have to water them much this winter!]. Any that come up as "wildflowers" are a bonus that didn't get thrown in the garbage. Linda Guy Master Gardener pamrapier@home.com wrote: > How long can you store vegetable seeds? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 17 15:50:15 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:50:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Hydrangeas References: <20010311.223204.-341965.1.kriegep@juno.com> Message-ID: <3AB387B7.9053F59A@qwest.net> I'm partial to working with natives so what I'm telling you is book learning not personal experience. But the Sunset Western Garden Book says there are a number of varieties that can make it in these zones [Pinetop looks like its SWBG zone 2, Phoenix is zone 13] with regular water and at least in Phoenix, afternoon shade. I suggest you review p. 327 in making your purchases. I DO know that if you want to keep the colors true, that blue/purple hydrangeas will need aluminum sulfate in alkaline soil, else they will revert to pink. Superphosphate will make your reds, redder! [Sounds like a detergent commercial.] Linda Guy Master Gardener kriegep@juno.com wrote: > Is it possible to grow hydrangeas in Arizona? We have two homes; one in > Tempe and the other in Pinetop. > -PK > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From newjo2@aol.com Sat Mar 17 17:25:58 2001 From: newjo2@aol.com (newjo2@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:25:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103171725.f2HHPw029461@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some lay-outs for maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where small plants were under taller ones, and when early harvest took place, then taller plants matured and gave their crop,and then something else produced... any suggestions would be appreciated....Newt From labs5@home.com Sat Mar 17 18:04:07 2001 From: labs5@home.com (labs5@home.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103171804.f2HI47003614@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I can find them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to AZ. I don't know if the nurseries don't carry them because of agricultural restrictions or just because there isn't a high demand. Any suggestions? From SatLin9@netscape.net Sat Mar 17 18:52:26 2001 From: SatLin9@netscape.net (SatLin9@netscape.net) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:52:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103171852.f2HIqQ007762@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My apricot tree is a dwarf moongold and it is three years old and it has never bloomed I don;t understand why. It has leaves every spring From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Mar 17 19:22:53 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean References: <3AB1770D.852974D4@airmail.net> Message-ID: <000001c0af17$b5eeab40$c550530c@j0r9501> A few garden centers still carry castor bean seed. Many do not because of alarms about the poisonous properties. You can also find it in many seed catalogs and on the web (search using keyword "castor bean"). It is a perennial plant in Phoenix and can get to be up to 15 feet tall with a 10 foot spread. I would not rely on the beans or plants to have any effect on pocket gophers. I have seen gopher mounds within one foot of the trunk of the plant. Another plant that is said to repel gophers is "Gopher Purge", aka "Mole Purge" (Euphorbia lathyrus). The milky sap is poisonous and the sap from the roots is said to repel gophers. It is a biennial plant that reseeds by itself - I have volunteers in the garden now. But it has no noticeable effect on my gophers either. I have never see the seed for sale locally but you can also find it in seed catalogs and on the web. I noticed that Gurney/Henry Fields offer the seeds in their catalog but will no longer ship to AZ. A few garden centers in Phoenix offer the plant in 4-inch pots. We occasionally see it as an ornamental in landscapes around Phoenix. Some landscape designers refer to it as "Gopher Spurge". There are also many suggestions for gopher control at the arid_gardener archives at http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html Use the search utility. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Javier Nieto" To: Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > I have recently come upon an email that you submitted to another > individual that was interested in t he castor bean plant. I as well am > interested but for another reason. I am told that this plant is good to > fend off gophers or moles. My father has recently relocated into the > Maricopa county are more so, the Tonapah are and has been looking for > castor bean seed. Can you please advise me on where to locate such > seeds. > Thank you > Javier Nieto > From millero@worldnet.att.net Sat Mar 17 19:22:53 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean References: <3AB1770D.852974D4@airmail.net> Message-ID: <000101c0af17$c99b9860$c550530c@j0r9501> A few garden centers still carry castor bean seed. Many do not because of alarms about the poisonous properties. You can also find it in many seed catalogs and on the web (search using keyword "castor bean"). It is a perennial plant in Phoenix and can get to be up to 15 feet tall with a 10 foot spread. I would not rely on the beans or plants to have any effect on pocket gophers. I have seen gopher mounds within one foot of the trunk of the plant. Another plant that is said to repel gophers is "Gopher Purge", aka "Mole Purge" (Euphorbia lathyrus). The milky sap is poisonous and the sap from the roots is said to repel gophers. It is a biennial plant that reseeds by itself - I have volunteers in the garden now. But it has no noticeable effect on my gophers either. I have never see the seed for sale locally but you can also find it in seed catalogs and on the web. I noticed that Gurney/Henry Fields offer the seeds in their catalog but will no longer ship to AZ. A few garden centers in Phoenix offer the plant in 4-inch pots. We occasionally see it as an ornamental in landscapes around Phoenix. Some landscape designers refer to it as "Gopher Spurge". There are also many suggestions for gopher control at the arid_gardener archives at http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and at http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html Use the search utility. Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Javier Nieto" To: Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:14 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > I have recently come upon an email that you submitted to another > individual that was interested in t he castor bean plant. I as well am > interested but for another reason. I am told that this plant is good to > fend off gophers or moles. My father has recently relocated into the > Maricopa county are more so, the Tonapah are and has been looking for > castor bean seed. Can you please advise me on where to locate such > seeds. > Thank you > Javier Nieto > From mel_leora@yahoo.com Sat Mar 17 20:44:07 2001 From: mel_leora@yahoo.com (mel_leora@yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:44:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103172044.f2HKi7019314@Ag.Arizona.Edu> tell me -is it good to have bricks around the base of your fruit trees, so that when you water them, the water can stay in the area of the tree. we only water once a week. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 22:27:37 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:27:37 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Epsom Salts Message-ID: Epsom Salts is magnesium sulphate so it does provide magnesium, a necessary secondary nutrient for chlorophyll production. I have not used it myself, but our rose gardeners use it once a year, in the spring and in small amounts, as roses are leafing out. THey are convinced it is beneficial. Linda Drew Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 22:34:16 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:34:16 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden, maxing Message-ID: I have had success following the guidelines in Mel Bartholomew's book, Square Foot Gardening. He recommends one 4-foot by 4-foot block per person. I use raised beds with compost. I use more water than he recommends and adjust the planting times to our climate. I think the basic principles are good. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: newjo2@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:25:58 -0700 (MST) > >1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some lay-outs for >maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where small plants were >under taller ones, and when early harvest took place, then taller plants >matured and gave their crop,and then something else produced... any >suggestions would be appreciated....Newt > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 22:40:17 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:40:17 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Kieffer Lime Message-ID: The 'kieffer' lime is grown for its leaves, used in Thai and Cambodian cooking. The fruit is bumpy, sour and harvested in spring and is also used in Asian dishes. I would call some of the nurseries in Yuma to find out if they have it or can special-order for you. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: labs5@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) > >I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I can find >them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to AZ. I don't >know if the nurseries don't carry them because of agricultural restrictions >or just because there isn't a high demand. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 17 22:41:50 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:41:50 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Apricot, Moongold. Message-ID: Since the apricot Moongold is not on the U. of A. recommended list, I would suspect that the chilling requirements are too high for Maricopa county. And that is probably the reason that you are not getting fruit. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 17 22:41:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:41:51 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fruit trees with a water retention basin Message-ID: <27.127fe23e.27e5422f@aol.com> Any type of water retaining device will be helpful in keeping the water applied in an area over the root zone. If your tree is young I would recommend that you install the brick retainer at the drip line of a mature tree unless you want to move it as the tree grows. You mentioned that you watered once a week, I hope that is summer time watering and not winter watering. Check out this website on watering citrus: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 22:49:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:49:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Apricot, moongold Message-ID: The apricot variety 'moongold' was developed for cold-winter climates. It is listed for Sunset Zones 1-3, Colorado, Utah, Flagstaff area. I suspect your tree is not getting enough winter chill to develop flowers and fruit. Katy, Gold Kist, Blenheim generally perform better in warmer climates like ours. Floragold is a natural semidwarf that does not need much chilling. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: SatLin9@netscape.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:52:26 -0700 (MST) > >My apricot tree is a dwarf moongold and it is three years old and it has >never bloomed I don;t understand why. It has leaves every spring > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat Mar 17 22:54:47 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:54:47 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation, basin Message-ID: I think what you are describing is called basin irrigation. This is a good way to water fruit trees. The basin needs to be expanded as the tree grows. Your brick barrier should be at or just beyond the dripline for the tree. Check to make sure that each time you water, moisture goes down 2-3 feet. Let the ground dry out some between waterings. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mel_leora@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:44:07 -0700 (MST) > >tell me -is it good to have bricks around the base of your fruit trees, so >that when you water them, the water can stay in the area of the tree. we >only water once a week. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 18 00:36:52 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:36:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden layouts References: <200103171725.f2HHPw029461@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB40324.EDEBB7B2@qwest.net> Further to colleague Linda Drew's response, I would try using corn and/or pole beans to the west to try to shade tomatoes/peppers/cukes from afternoon sun to help them last marginally longer in the intensifying summer heat. Linda Guy Master Gardener newjo2@aol.com wrote: > 1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some lay-outs for maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where small plants were under taller ones, and when early harvest took place, then taller plants matured and gave their crop,and then something else produced... any suggestions would be appreciated....Newt > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 18 00:40:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:40:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Kaffir Limes References: <200103171804.f2HI47003614@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB40412.5C564010@qwest.net> Try Foothills Nursery in Yuma and.or Greenfield Citrus Nursery in the East Valley . Can't guarantee, but Foothills had tangors that someone was seeking last month Linda Guy Master Gardener labs5@home.com wrote: > I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I can find them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to AZ. I don't know if the nurseries don't carry them because of agricultural restrictions or just because there isn't a high demand. Any suggestions? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun Mar 18 00:42:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:42:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID Message-ID: <3AB40490.EFD9E105@qwest.net> Does anyone have a particularly good/favorite book for identifying our local [Phoenix] area weeds? I saw a reference work in the UA listing that's a few decades old... Linda Guy Master Gardener From bevtbaker@aol.com Sun Mar 18 00:53:17 2001 From: bevtbaker@aol.com (bevtbaker@aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:53:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103180053.f2I0rH016656@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are loosing an old, large carob tree. Although there are some new leaves, the majority are brown. There are small eraser size holes in the trunk and the bark is falling off. Is there anything that we can do to save the tree? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun Mar 18 02:04:07 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 02:04:07 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID Message-ID: I like this book -- it is just for the west plus it has good color photos. Linda Drew Master Gardener WEEDS OF THE WEST Published by Western Society of Weed Science and The Cooperative Extension Service of The Western States. This is an extensive, easy-to-use weed identification guide to the weeds of the Western U.S. It contains in its 650 pages over 900 color photos of weeds in various stages of growth. Also descriptions, habitats and characteristics of each plant are given. Softcover. 650 pages. $31.95 >From: "Linda Guy" >To: "Arid_gardener" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:42:56 -0700 > >Does anyone have a particularly good/favorite book for identifying our >local [Phoenix] area weeds? I saw a reference work in the UA listing >that's a few decades old... > >Linda Guy >Master Gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 18 03:44:05 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:44:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID References: Message-ID: <002e01c0af5d$b5314be0$7653530c@j0r9501> I like "Weeds of the West' too - it has nice photographs. But Kittie Parker's "An Illustrated Guide to Arizona Weeds" on line at http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm is still my favorite. It may be nearly 30 years old but the weeds are still the same. Maybe I'm partial to it because I have the printed version which we used as a textbook at GCC a few decades ago. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Drew" To: Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:04 PM Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID > I like this book -- it is just for the west plus it > has good color photos. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > WEEDS OF THE WEST > Published by Western Society of Weed Science and > The Cooperative Extension Service of The Western States. > > This is an extensive, easy-to-use weed identification guide to the weeds of > the Western U.S. It contains in its 650 pages over 900 color photos of weeds > in various stages of growth. Also descriptions, habitats and characteristics > of each plant are given. Softcover. > 650 pages. $31.95 > > > >From: "Linda Guy" > >To: "Arid_gardener" > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:42:56 -0700 > > > >Does anyone have a particularly good/favorite book for identifying our > >local [Phoenix] area weeds? I saw a reference work in the UA listing > >that's a few decades old... > > > >Linda Guy > >Master Gardener > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Sun Mar 18 04:23:15 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 21:23:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden layouts References: <200103171725.f2HHPw029461@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AB40324.EDEBB7B2@qwest.net> Message-ID: <000801c0af63$2a4a2820$3551530c@j0r9501> For a tall crop, you might also want to try okra. Doesn't need as much space as corn which needs 4 rows minimum for good pollination and okra is also adapted to our warm spring growing conditions. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Guy" To: Cc: "Arid_gardener" Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 5:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden layouts > Further to colleague Linda Drew's response, I would try using corn and/or pole beans to the west to try to shade tomatoes/peppers/cukes from afternoon sun to help them last marginally longer in the intensifying summer heat. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > newjo2@aol.com wrote: > > > 1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some lay-outs for maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where small plants were under taller ones, and when early harvest took place, then taller plants matured and gave their crop,and then something else produced... any suggestions would be appreciated....Newt > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From kriegep@juno.com Sun Mar 18 06:20:53 2001 From: kriegep@juno.com (kriegep@juno.com) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 23:20:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #66 - 18 msgs Message-ID: <20010317.232113.-342843.3.kriegep@juno.com> Kaffir Lime: I've seen them at Lee Lee Oriental Market, north east corner of Dobson and Warner. Call them first, and find out if they have them, and if not, when they would be stocking them. -Phun ________________________________ On Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:45:12 -0700 (MST) arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu writes: > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Seed Storage (Linda Guy) > 2. Growing Hydrangeas (Linda Guy) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (newjo2@aol.com) > 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (labs5@home.com) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (SatLin9@netscape.net) > 6. Re: Castor bean (olin) > 7. Re: Castor bean (olin) > 8. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (mel_leora@yahoo.com) > 9. Re: Epsom Salts (Linda Drew) > 10. Re: vegetable garden, maxing (Linda Drew) > 11. Re: Kieffer Lime (Linda Drew) > 12. Re:Apricot, Moongold. (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 13. Re: Fruit trees with a water retention basin (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 14. Re: Apricot, moongold (Linda Drew) > 15. Re: Irrigation, basin (Linda Drew) > 16. Garden layouts (Linda Guy) > 17. Locating Kaffir Limes (Linda Guy) > 18. Weed ID (Linda Guy) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:43:39 -0700 > From: "Linda Guy" > To: pamrapier@home.com > Cc: "Arid_gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Seed Storage > > You can maximize the shelf life of your seeds by keeping them in a > dark, > dry [add some of those dessicant packs] and cool place [not in a > coffee > can on your potting bench in August, eg!]. > > Based on personal experience, I've had success up to about three > years. > I've heard some long time MGs say that seeds for some cool season > veggies and herbs [dill, anise, carrots, beets] do not last much > beyond > their posted season. I'd have to concur, again based solely on > personal > experience, with the carrots and beets. > > When I have old flower seeds, I mix them all up with a bit of sand > and > strew them out on the rock mulch in the front and side yards [didn't > have to water them much this winter!]. Any that come up as > "wildflowers" > are a bonus that didn't get thrown in the garbage. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > pamrapier@home.com wrote: > > > How long can you store vegetable seeds? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:50:15 -0700 > From: "Linda Guy" > To: kriegep@juno.com > Cc: "Arid_gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Growing Hydrangeas > > I'm partial to working with natives so what I'm telling you is book > learning > not personal experience. But the Sunset Western Garden Book says > there are a > number of varieties that can make it in these zones [Pinetop looks > like its > SWBG zone 2, Phoenix is zone 13] with regular water and at least in > Phoenix, > afternoon shade. I suggest you review p. 327 in making your > purchases. > > I DO know that if you want to keep the colors true, that blue/purple > hydrangeas will need aluminum sulfate in alkaline soil, else they > will > revert to pink. Superphosphate will make your reds, redder! [Sounds > like a > detergent commercial.] > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > kriegep@juno.com wrote: > > > Is it possible to grow hydrangeas in Arizona? We have two homes; > one in > > Tempe and the other in Pinetop. > > -PK > > ________________________________________________________________ > > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:25:58 -0700 (MST) > To: > From: newjo2@aol.com > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > 1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some > lay-outs for maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where > small plants were under taller ones, and when early harvest took > place, then taller plants matured and gave their crop,and then > something else produced... any suggestions would be > appreciated....Newt > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) > To: > From: labs5@home.com > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I > can find them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to > AZ. I don't know if the nurseries don't carry them because of > agricultural restrictions or just because there isn't a high demand. > Any suggestions? > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:52:26 -0700 (MST) > To: > From: SatLin9@netscape.net > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > My apricot tree is a dwarf moongold and it is three years old and it > has never bloomed I don;t understand why. It has leaves every spring > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > From: "olin" > To: "Javier Nieto" , > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 > > A few garden centers still carry castor bean seed. Many do not > because of > alarms about the poisonous properties. You can also find it in many > seed > catalogs and on the web (search using keyword "castor bean"). It is > a > perennial plant in Phoenix and can get to be up to 15 feet tall with > a 10 > foot spread. I would not rely on the beans or plants to have any > effect on > pocket gophers. I have seen gopher mounds within one foot of the > trunk of > the plant. > > Another plant that is said to repel gophers is "Gopher Purge", aka > "Mole > Purge" (Euphorbia lathyrus). The milky sap is poisonous and the > sap from > the roots is said to repel gophers. It is a biennial plant that > reseeds by > itself - I have volunteers in the garden now. But it has no > noticeable > effect on my gophers either. I have never see the seed for sale > locally but > you can also find it in seed catalogs and on the web. I noticed > that > Gurney/Henry Fields offer the seeds in their catalog but will no > longer ship > to AZ. A few garden centers in Phoenix offer the plant in 4-inch > pots. We > occasionally see it as an ornamental in landscapes around Phoenix. > Some > landscape designers refer to it as "Gopher Spurge". > > There are also many suggestions for gopher control at the > arid_gardener > archives at > http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ > and at > http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html > Use the search utility. > > Olin > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Javier Nieto" > To: > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:14 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > > > > I have recently come upon an email that you submitted to another > > individual that was interested in t he castor bean plant. I as > well am > > interested but for another reason. I am told that this plant is > good to > > fend off gophers or moles. My father has recently relocated into > the > > Maricopa county are more so, the Tonapah are and has been looking > for > > castor bean seed. Can you please advise me on where to locate such > > seeds. > > Thank you > > Javier Nieto > > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > From: "olin" > To: "Javier Nieto" , > > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 > > A few garden centers still carry castor bean seed. Many do not > because of > alarms about the poisonous properties. You can also find it in many > seed > catalogs and on the web (search using keyword "castor bean"). It is > a > perennial plant in Phoenix and can get to be up to 15 feet tall with > a 10 > foot spread. I would not rely on the beans or plants to have any > effect on > pocket gophers. I have seen gopher mounds within one foot of the > trunk of > the plant. > > Another plant that is said to repel gophers is "Gopher Purge", aka > "Mole > Purge" (Euphorbia lathyrus). The milky sap is poisonous and the > sap from > the roots is said to repel gophers. It is a biennial plant that > reseeds by > itself - I have volunteers in the garden now. But it has no > noticeable > effect on my gophers either. I have never see the seed for sale > locally but > you can also find it in seed catalogs and on the web. I noticed > that > Gurney/Henry Fields offer the seeds in their catalog but will no > longer ship > to AZ. A few garden centers in Phoenix offer the plant in 4-inch > pots. We > occasionally see it as an ornamental in landscapes around Phoenix. > Some > landscape designers refer to it as "Gopher Spurge". > > There are also many suggestions for gopher control at the > arid_gardener > archives at > http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ > and at > http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/index.html > Use the search utility. > > Olin > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Javier Nieto" > To: > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 7:14 PM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Castor bean > > > > I have recently come upon an email that you submitted to another > > individual that was interested in t he castor bean plant. I as > well am > > interested but for another reason. I am told that this plant is > good to > > fend off gophers or moles. My father has recently relocated into > the > > Maricopa county are more so, the Tonapah are and has been looking > for > > castor bean seed. Can you please advise me on where to locate such > > seeds. > > Thank you > > Javier Nieto > > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:44:07 -0700 (MST) > To: > From: mel_leora@yahoo.com > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > tell me -is it good to have bricks around the base of your fruit > trees, so that when you water them, the water can stay in the area > of the tree. we only water once a week. > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: lindaguy@qwest.net, arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Epsom Salts > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:27:37 -0000 > > Epsom Salts is magnesium sulphate so it does > provide magnesium, a necessary secondary nutrient > for chlorophyll production. > > I have not used it myself, but our rose gardeners > use it once a year, in the spring and in small > amounts, as roses are leafing out. THey are > convinced it is beneficial. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: newjo2@aol.com, arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden, maxing > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:34:16 -0000 > > I have had success following the guidelines > in Mel Bartholomew's book, Square Foot Gardening. > He recommends one 4-foot by 4-foot block per > person. > > I use raised beds with compost. I use more water > than he recommends and adjust the planting times > to our climate. I think the basic principles are > good. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > >From: newjo2@aol.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:25:58 -0700 (MST) > > > >1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some > lay-outs for > >maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where small plants > were > >under taller ones, and when early harvest took place, then taller > plants > >matured and gave their crop,and then something else produced... any > > >suggestions would be appreciated....Newt > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: labs5@home.com, arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Kieffer Lime > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:40:17 -0000 > > The 'kieffer' lime is grown for its leaves, used > in Thai and Cambodian cooking. The fruit is bumpy, > sour and harvested in spring and is also used in > Asian dishes. > > I would call some of the nurseries in Yuma to > find out if they have it or can special-order > for you. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: labs5@home.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:04:07 -0700 (MST) > > > >I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I > can find > >them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to AZ. I > don't > >know if the nurseries don't carry them because of agricultural > restrictions > >or just because there isn't a high demand. Any suggestions? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:41:50 EST > To: SatLin9@netscape.net > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Apricot, Moongold. > > Since the apricot Moongold is not on the U. of A. recommended list, > I would > suspect that the chilling requirements are too high for Maricopa > county. And > that is probably the reason that you are not getting fruit. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:41:51 EST > To: mel_leora@yahoo.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Fruit trees with a water retention > basin > > Any type of water retaining device will be helpful in keeping the > water > applied in an area over the root zone. If your tree is young I would > > recommend that you install the brick retainer at the drip line of a > mature > tree unless you want to move it as the tree grows. You mentioned > that you > watered once a week, I hope that is summer time watering and not > winter > watering. Check out this website on watering citrus: > www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 14 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: SatLin9@netscape.net, arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Apricot, moongold > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:49:22 -0000 > > The apricot variety 'moongold' was developed for > cold-winter climates. It is listed for Sunset Zones > 1-3, Colorado, Utah, Flagstaff area. > > I suspect your tree is not getting enough winter > chill to develop flowers and fruit. Katy, Gold Kist, > Blenheim generally perform better in warmer climates > like ours. Floragold is a natural semidwarf that > does not need much chilling. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > > >From: SatLin9@netscape.net > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:52:26 -0700 (MST) > > > >My apricot tree is a dwarf moongold and it is three years old and > it has > >never bloomed I don;t understand why. It has leaves every spring > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 15 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: mel_leora@yahoo.com, arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation, basin > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:54:47 -0000 > > I think what you are describing is called > basin irrigation. This is a good way to > water fruit trees. > > The basin needs to be expanded as the tree grows. > Your brick barrier should be at or just beyond the > dripline for the tree. Check to make sure that each > time you water, moisture goes down 2-3 feet. Let > the ground dry out some between waterings. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: mel_leora@yahoo.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 13:44:07 -0700 (MST) > > > >tell me -is it good to have bricks around the base of your fruit > trees, so > >that when you water them, the water can stay in the area of the > tree. we > >only water once a week. > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 16 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:36:52 -0700 > From: "Linda Guy" > To: newjo2@aol.com > Cc: "Arid_gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Garden layouts > > Further to colleague Linda Drew's response, I would try using corn > and/or pole beans to the west to try to shade tomatoes/peppers/cukes > from afternoon sun to help them last marginally longer in the > intensifying summer heat. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > newjo2@aol.com wrote: > > > 1st. attempt @ a 10' by 12' veg garden. Would like to see some > lay-outs for maximum prouduction. I've seen some in the past where > small plants were under taller ones, and when early harvest took > place, then taller plants matured and gave their crop,and then > something else produced... any suggestions would be > appreciated....Newt > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 17 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:40:50 -0700 > From: "Linda Guy" > To: labs5@home.com > Cc: "Arid_gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Kaffir Limes > > Try Foothills Nursery in Yuma and.or Greenfield Citrus Nursery in > the East Valley . Can't guarantee, but Foothills had tangors that > someone was seeking last month > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > labs5@home.com wrote: > > > I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I > can find them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to > AZ. I don't know if the nurseries don't carry them because of > agricultural restrictions or just because there isn't a high demand. > Any suggestions? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 18 > Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:42:56 -0700 > From: "Linda Guy" > To: "Arid_gardener" > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID > > Does anyone have a particularly good/favorite book for identifying > our > local [Phoenix] area weeds? I saw a reference work in the UA listing > that's a few decades old... > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > End of Arid_gardener Digest KriegeP@juno.com TEL: 480-730-6215 FAX: 480-730-0362 ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From jfleishans@aol.com Sun Mar 18 16:46:30 2001 From: jfleishans@aol.com (jfleishans@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:46:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103181646.f2IGkU020766@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What lawn will grow under mature citrus trees that are flood irrigated? Palmetto [Bermuda] has been recommended as well as Ddiamond [z-grass]. Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thanks From npbhike@home.com Sun Mar 18 17:45:28 2001 From: npbhike@home.com (npbhike@home.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 10:45:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103181745.f2IHjS026611@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I live in Phoenix have a 8 foot masonary wall facing southwest that gets full sun. I would like to plant something that will hide the wall, adhere to the wall, remain green year round and grow quickly. Watering is accomplished via irrigation. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. From vhhansen@excite.com Sun Mar 18 18:06:21 2001 From: vhhansen@excite.com (vhhansen@excite.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 11:06:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103181806.f2II6L029148@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We recently moved to Arizona, and our small lawn has "mid-iron" grass. What type is this (I can't find it described in gardening books), and will it withstand the summer heat? If not, do I need to overseed with another variety for the summer? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 18 19:44:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:44:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Midiron Message-ID: <90.11a8e391.27e66a1c@aol.com> Midiron also known as E-Z Turf is the very popular hybrid bermuda which is definitely a summer grass in the low desert of Arizona. It turns brown in the winter as do all other grasses that will withstand the summer heat in the low desert. Since it is a hybrid it cannot be started from seed but from sod, stolens sprigs or plugs. If you want a green lawn in the winter you must overseed in the fall with rye. A bulletin describing this grass and how to care for it is available from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 for $1.00. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 18 19:44:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 14:44:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Cat's Claw vine Message-ID: The one plant that will answer nearly all your requirements is Cat's Claw vine ( Macfadyena unguis-cati. It is fast growing, attaches itself to a block or wood wall, has yellow flowers, requires little water once it is established and is simi deciduous which means that in a warm winter such as we have just had it will remain green, however colder winters will cause it to lose its leaves. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 19 01:07:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 20:07:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Carob tree dying Message-ID: When trees are under stress they will usually fall victim to insects and disease. The best thing you can do for this tree is to be sure that it is deep watered adequately. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From Beverlyfz@aol.com Mon Mar 19 03:21:13 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 22:21:13 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pussy Willows Message-ID: <9e.11938b5d.27e6d529@aol.com> --part1_9e.11938b5d.27e6d529_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My Mom, a Kansas resident, said she had some pussy willows in her house that she picked out in the boonies somewhere is Kansas. After she had them a while, they heard some tiny pouf explosions and discovered that the pussys were explodinginto clouds of fluff. She wants to know what florists do to keep them from doing this. Beverly Fizzell --part1_9e.11938b5d.27e6d529_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My Mom, a Kansas resident,  said she had some pussy willows in her house that
she picked out in the boonies somewhere is Kansas.  After she had them a
while, they heard some tiny pouf explosions and discovered that the pussys
were explodinginto clouds of fluff.  She wants to know what florists do to
keep them from doing this.   Beverly Fizzell     --part1_9e.11938b5d.27e6d529_boundary-- From celtic_2@netzero.net Mon Mar 19 16:04:46 2001 From: celtic_2@netzero.net (celtic_2@netzero.net) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 09:04:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103191604.f2JG4kW23543@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I need advise on what kind of tree to plant in my back yard. The primary reason for the tree is that my neighbor built on a second story addition, with a window that looks like a mirror, and now looks directly into my yard. I have lost privacy, and my comfort level is low since I can not tell if anyone is looking at me. He is very unfriendly to begin with so you see my problem. My yard is north facing I would have to plant the trees in the lawn that has a sprinkler system. Any suggestions for fast growing trees to provide a privacy screen? Someone suggested castor bean trees. From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Mar 19 17:45:15 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:45:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion References: <200103191604.f2JG4kW23543@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB645AB.2897658@AuroraNow.org> I just purchased two Paulownia trees from a California nursery. They're native to China, tolerate drought, love the heat, are hardy to 0*F and grows 15 feet (that's not a typo) the first year. They grow to mature height--25 to 30 feet within 4-5 years (canopy as wide). I'm not sure how they'd do with regular irrigation, but you can contact The Paulownia Tree Company at paulowniatree@pacific.net, (707) 462-6777. I bought mine in January while they were still dormant and only one has come out of dormancy, but within 3 weeks, it is covered with leaves and the trunk has almost doubled in diameter. Mine should be ready to plant out next month against the southern face of my house which desperately needs summer shade (and I don't want to wait 7-10 years for shade!). They have some great features: *they are not poisonous: the leaves can be used for tea and the lovely purple flowers (spring bloomers) resemble a desert willow and can be tossed in your salads. * Their deep taproots grow straight down so you can plant them close to houses and sidewalks without worry. They are deciduous however, so they won't provide a year-round screen for you. celtic_2@netzero.net wrote: > > I need advise on what kind of tree to plant in my back yard. The primary reason for the tree is that my neighbor built on a second story addition, with a window that looks like a mirror, and now looks directly into my yard. I have lost privacy, and my comfort level is low since I can not tell if anyone is looking at me. He is very unfriendly to begin with so you see my problem. My yard is north facing I would have to plant the trees in the lawn that has a sprinkler system. Any suggestions for fast growing trees to provide a privacy screen? Someone suggested castor bean trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Mon Mar 19 17:54:21 2001 From: ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Chris Jones) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 10:54:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion In-Reply-To: <3AB645AB.2897658@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <000f01c0b09d$a0d5e3e0$4401a8c0@cjones> Paulownia personally scare me to death - "if it sounds too good to be true, it usually is." The Paulownia has a great potential to be weedy and invasive, especially in riparian areas. Fast-growing trees tend to be brittle and prone to branch breakage as well as short-lived. I would be happy to be convinced otherwise. Time will tell of course, but the next generation will actually reap the consequence or benefit, as we as have with Siberian elm, tree-of-heaven, Russian olive and tamarisk. As seem to require an evergreen on a northern exposure, I would suggest looking into varieties of juniper. The Maricopa Extension office has a good factsheet on junipers if it isn't available on line. If your site isn't too cold/shady, you may also consider African sumac and sissou, broadleaf trees that tend to be evergreen in our climate. The sissou in particular is fast growing. Christopher Jones, Extension Agent Agriculture and Natural Resources Programs The University of Arizona Gila County Cooperative Extension 1177 Monroe Street Globe, AZ 85501 Ph: (520) 425-7179 FAX: (520) 425-0265 E-mail: ckjones@ag.arizona.edu -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Monday, March 19, 2001 10:45 AM To: celtic_2@netzero.net Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion I just purchased two Paulownia trees from a California nursery. They're native to China, tolerate drought, love the heat, are hardy to 0*F and grows 15 feet (that's not a typo) the first year. They grow to mature height--25 to 30 feet within 4-5 years (canopy as wide). I'm not sure how they'd do with regular irrigation, but you can contact The Paulownia Tree Company at paulowniatree@pacific.net, (707) 462-6777. I bought mine in January while they were still dormant and only one has come out of dormancy, but within 3 weeks, it is covered with leaves and the trunk has almost doubled in diameter. Mine should be ready to plant out next month against the southern face of my house which desperately needs summer shade (and I don't want to wait 7-10 years for shade!). They have some great features: *they are not poisonous: the leaves can be used for tea and the lovely purple flowers (spring bloomers) resemble a desert willow and can be tossed in your salads. * Their deep taproots grow straight down so you can plant them close to houses and sidewalks without worry. They are deciduous however, so they won't provide a year-round screen for you. celtic_2@netzero.net wrote: > > I need advise on what kind of tree to plant in my back yard. The primary reason for the tree is that my neighbor built on a second story addition, with a window that looks like a mirror, and now looks directly into my yard. I have lost privacy, and my comfort level is low since I can not tell if anyone is looking at me. He is very unfriendly to begin with so you see my problem. My yard is north facing I would have to plant the trees in the lawn that has a sprinkler system. Any suggestions for fast growing trees to provide a privacy screen? Someone suggested castor bean trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Mar 19 18:54:00 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:54:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] one tree suggestion References: <000f01c0b09d$a0d5e3e0$4401a8c0@cjones> Message-ID: <3AB655C8.DCBDCFF5@AuroraNow.org> Chris, Probably 99% of my landscaping is species native to the low Sonoran Desert, and I'm probably more conscious than most about the dangers of introducing non-natives which could become invasive. My general rule of thumb is research ahead of time and I never plant a non-native more than 20-30 feet from the house so I can keep an eye on it (granted, for airborne seeders that doesn't mean much). If a species needs supplemental watering and fertilizing here in the desert, it would seem unlikely that they would spread. Paulownia trees require regular water their first 2-3 years, and soils high in nitrogen. They wouldn't get that here in the low desert. Even if one managed to spring up in a wash, it wouldn't thrive in the poor soil (they require care about equivalent to citrus trees, which I've never seen growing in the wild here). You are also right in your assumption about winds. Paulownias are subject to breakage in high winds (I'm placing mine in an area that is somewhat protected), although not as bad as say the non-native south american mesquites because of the paulownia's hard wood. The life expectency of Paulownia is 80-100 years. Not the longest living, but not too bad, either. By the way, the Paulownia has actually naturalized in some pockets of the southeast (early settlers used to use the seed pods as packing peanuts) without being invasive. (I myself am a non-native naturalized resident of the desert here. ;-) I actually learned about Paulownias while I was working for an environmental organization. Although in the end, the article I wrote wasn't published with that organization (because it's non native), other information was published elsewhere in reference to the fact that Paulownia can thrive in strip mined land and can help restore soils in such places, they provide an economically viable alternative for foresters seeking to produce hard woods for furniture making, lumber, etc. My personal opinion is that while introducing non-natives is often done by uninformed home gardeners, (witness the abundance of african daisies, which can be invasive, in some wild areas) sometimes their use, for aesthetics or economics can be appropriate. I'd sure hate to get rid of my rosemary. I do agree, after realizing the question referred to a northern exposure, that one of our native pines or junipers would probably do better for the person with the unneighborly neighbor. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From droumas@qwest.net Mon Mar 19 18:43:38 2001 From: droumas@qwest.net (droumas@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:43:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103191843.f2JIhcW04061@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have tomatoes planted, and the top leaves are green, but the bottom leaves are dying. I did add my own compost which might not have been ready to add.(I am so impatient!) But if that is the problem, what can I do to fix it? I did already add miracle grow about 3 weeks ago. Did I add too much fertilizer? What to do? Also, I am looking for seeds for cotton plants, any idea where I can get them? From envconnections@yahoo.com Mon Mar 19 19:21:24 2001 From: envconnections@yahoo.com (linda levitt) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 11:21:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] weed henbit Message-ID: <20010319192124.27550.qmail@web1903.mail.yahoo.com> This weed was identified for me by Bakers. The whole garden I planted at my son's school is full of it. We planted in OCT after the first rains in the fall and it invaded. We weed daily. BUT, where did it come from? I never want to do this again. I used compost from THE FARM and the garden and area surrounding it is and was weed free? Any ideas? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From valpogrl@aol.com Mon Mar 19 19:45:07 2001 From: valpogrl@aol.com (valpogrl@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:45:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103191945.f2JJj7W19368@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I have a friend who lives in a pretty remote desert area near New River. She is tired of fighting a losing battle against all the critters (coyote, javelina, deer, packrats and especially rabbits)for her plants. She is considering building a greenhouse but I question how much it can actually be used. What about the heat build up and intensity of our sun? I can only see it being useful for about 3 or 4 months. Is it possible to utilize a greenhouse here? If so, which direction would you orient it? N-S or E-W? If not, any suggestions on critter control would be greatly appreciated. She is mostly interested in growing vegetables. Thanks, Cindy Ciotti From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 19 20:09:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:09:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Critter Control References: <200103191945.f2JJj7W19368@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB66772.3454B1F8@qwest.net> Since your friend believes that a greenhouse would meet her needs, I am responding under the assumption that we're talking about flowers and vegetables and not the expanse of her whole yard's landscape. A greenhouse with a swamp cooler would be a good route to go and I know those who havefrom conversations in this forum. That gives one the option to use hydroponics too. We have several such equipment retailers here in the Valley. I saw an interesting twist on raised beds at the DBG this weekend, which also promotes gardening for those of the community who are in a wheelchair or use walkers. Make them waist high or better to keep the veggies/herbs/flowers out of reach of all but perhaps the deer. For these, put a little garden perimeter fencing around the structure. No bending this way! And you can still run irrigation. Barriers and/or deer- or rabbit- resistant vegetation are really the only ways to go. Unfortunately most flowers and veggies are appealing to more than just we humans.And in the most severe of droughts, all vegetation becomes fair game. Linda Guy Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > Hi, > I have a friend who lives in a pretty remote desert area near New River. She is tired of fighting a losing battle against all the critters (coyote, javelina, deer, packrats and especially rabbits)for her plants. She is considering building a greenhouse but I question how much it can actually be used. What about the heat build up and intensity of our sun? I can only see it being useful for about 3 or 4 months. Is it possible to utilize a greenhouse here? If so, which direction would you orient it? N-S or E-W? If not, any suggestions on critter control would be greatly appreciated. She is mostly interested in growing vegetables. > Thanks, > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From nfk54401@home.com Mon Mar 19 20:22:34 2001 From: nfk54401@home.com (Norma Kafer) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:22:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103191945.f2JJj7W19368@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB66A8A.117B263F@home.com> Greetings, I have two greenhouses in central Phoenix. Mine are oriented N-S. A swamp cooler is a must. I also have a shade cloth covering. During the winter, to keep my orchids warm, I use one of those portable radiators. They don't give off gases. The greenhouses are used year 'round. Norma Kafer Master Gardener valpogrl@aol.com wrote: > > Hi, > I have a friend who lives in a pretty remote desert area near New River. She is tired of fighting a losing battle against all the critters (coyote, javelina, deer, packrats and especially rabbits)for her plants. She is considering building a greenhouse but I question how much it can actually be used. What about the heat build up and intensity of our sun? I can only see it being useful for about 3 or 4 months. Is it possible to utilize a greenhouse here? If so, which direction would you orient it? N-S or E-W? If not, any suggestions on critter control would be greatly appreciated. She is mostly interested in growing vegetables. > Thanks, > Cindy Ciotti > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 19 20:32:00 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 13:32:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Privacy Tree References: <200103191604.f2JG4kW23543@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB66CC0.1636AC33@qwest.net> I like some of Chris' suggestions, but would add that if you live in a neighborhood such as mine with lots of pigeons, planting an African sumac will be like opening a candy store. My backyard was full of these messy birds who would drop by uninvited for lunch, top it off with a drink from my good-sized pond, plop nice little 'calling cards' shall we say on the flagstone and leave until the next lunch hour! We got so frustrated that we removed two sumacs before they got too large to handle on our own. They do make a wonderful climbing tree for kids over time,though. Pines can be nice and I think of the many Aleppos [Pinus halepensis] in my mature neighborhood. But please be cautious about selecting one, because they can grow to the size of the monsoon thunderclouds that their canopy resembles in shape....I am talking 60' here. Mine is a token of our first Christmas as a family, so I leave it despite an otherwise native landscape, and it is only watered enough to look good, not to promote excess growth. [Lawn sprinkling is not tree watering by any means.] Indeed over time, you won't have much lawn under the shade of any tree with a dense canopy. Another pine that has a more symmetrical form is the Afghan or Eldarica. You will have needle drop to rake now and again with any pine. Other evergreen shade trees from one of our pubs include bottle tree, carob, silk oak Unfortunately, unless well cared for, silk oaks and bottle trees can look chlorotic, a condition that lawn watering might promote. Carobs can be messy. Did you ever consider a large [versus dwarf that is] citrus tree? I'm not sure how high the two story window is, since site grading may play a factor. Linda Guy Master Gardener celtic_2@netzero.net wrote: > I need advise on what kind of tree to plant in my back yard. The primary reason for the tree is that my neighbor built on a second story addition, with a window that looks like a mirror, and now looks directly into my yard. I have lost privacy, and my comfort level is low since I can not tell if anyone is looking at me. He is very unfriendly to begin with so you see my problem. My yard is north facing I would have to plant the trees in the lawn that has a sprinkler system. Any suggestions for fast growing trees to provide a privacy screen? Someone suggested castor bean trees. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From saz621@primenet.com Mon Mar 19 21:41:14 2001 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 14:41:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Locating Kaffir Limes References: <200103171804.f2HI47003614@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AB40412.5C564010@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AB67CFA.A6F6A891@primenet.com> I found Kaffir limes last year at Desert Tree Nursery which is located on Cave Creek Road just north of Beardsley Road. Mary Irish Linda Guy wrote: > Try Foothills Nursery in Yuma and.or Greenfield Citrus Nursery in the East Valley . Can't guarantee, but Foothills had tangors that someone was seeking last month > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > labs5@home.com wrote: > > > I have been trying to find a kaffir lime tree without any luck. I can find them on the net but, of course, these places can't ship to AZ. I don't know if the nurseries don't carry them because of agricultural restrictions or just because there isn't a high demand. Any suggestions? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 19 22:00:36 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 22:00:36 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Critter control in garden Message-ID: Try the "Dimeglio System" -- the article can be found at: nationalgardening.com and search for dimeglio. We have something simliar in our Cooperative Extension Demonstration Gardens that has worked well to exclude critters and grows healthy crops. (Pima County, Arizona) Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: valpogrl@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:45:07 -0700 (MST) > >Hi, >I have a friend who lives in a pretty remote desert area near New River. >She is tired of fighting a losing battle against all the critters (coyote, >javelina, deer, packrats and especially rabbits)for her plants. She is >considering building a greenhouse but I question how much it can actually >be used. What about the heat build up and intensity of our sun? I can only >see it being useful for about 3 or 4 months. Is it possible to utilize a >greenhouse here? If so, which direction would you orient it? N-S or E-W? >If not, any suggestions on critter control would be greatly appreciated. >She is mostly interested in growing vegetables. >Thanks, >Cindy Ciotti > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From valpogl@aol.com Mon Mar 19 22:46:42 2001 From: valpogl@aol.com (valpogl@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 15:46:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103192246.f2JMkfW02884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help. I found what I believe are grubs in my vegetable garden. They are about 1/4" long by about 1/16 inch wide with an orange head. Good or bad? Thanks, Cindy From kenandbarb1@msn.com Tue Mar 20 00:02:43 2001 From: kenandbarb1@msn.com (kenandbarb1@msn.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:02:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103200002.f2K02hW20624@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I keep the birds from eating my tomatoes as soon as they turn pink? I would like to have them ripen on the vine. From supister@hotmail.com Tue Mar 20 00:15:46 2001 From: supister@hotmail.com (supister@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 17:15:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103200015.f2K0FkW23101@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I was curious if Dutch Bulbs grow very well in Phoenix? If they do, what is the process to plant them and maintain them? Are there special considerations to keep in mind? From taosyn@aol.com Tue Mar 20 01:20:47 2001 From: taosyn@aol.com (taosyn@aol.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:20:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103200120.f2K1KlW04110@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When should I prune my "Bird of Paradise"? How much should I prune? Thank you. From WAKE1@GATEWAY.NET Tue Mar 20 01:22:00 2001 From: WAKE1@GATEWAY.NET (WAKE1@GATEWAY.NET) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:22:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103200122.f2K1M0W04269@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently purchased an older home in Phoenix with 7 large 40'+ pine trees. Can you provide me with any watering and care instructions? Many have clusters of brown needles, and others have many pine cones waiting to fall. Thanks. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 20 14:39:27 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 14:39:27 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning, Bird of Paradise Message-ID: this informationm from Eric Johnson's "Pruning, Planting and Care" for Red Bird of Paradise: major pruning should be done in late winter or early spring after danger of frost is past. At that time cut plant stems to 6 to 12 inches above ground for complete renewal. Surge of new growth will be vigorous when temperatures warm. May also need to control in midsummer. for Desert Bird of Paradise: during dormancy and just before spring, cut back branches and vertical growth at least 50 percent to stimulate bushiness and new growth. May also need to prune in early summer. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: taosyn@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2001 18:20:47 -0700 (MST) > >When should I prune my "Bird of Paradise"? > >How much should I prune? > >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From DTopham1@aol.com Tue Mar 20 16:30:26 2001 From: DTopham1@aol.com (DTopham1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 11:30:26 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Message-ID: --part1_a.a68b757.27e8dfa2_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My tomatoes have little black flys all over them. They are not white flys but they sit there so they must be sucking. They remind me of fruit flys with transparent wings that extend beyond the body. I think I brought them home for the store but either way they've been there several days and are multipling. I think there are eggs ont he plants as well. A few of the most bottom branches are turning yellow and dying but maybe that was from the transplanting. I just sprayed them with a mixture of water and dishsoap (maybe a teaspoon to 32 oz. of water). Will that help or hurt the situation. Any suggestions? --part1_a.a68b757.27e8dfa2_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit My tomatoes have little black flys all over them.  They are not white flys
but they sit there so they must be sucking.  They remind me of fruit flys
with transparent wings that extend beyond the body.  I think I brought them
home for the store but either way they've been there several days and are
multipling.  I think there are eggs ont he plants as well.  A few of the most
bottom branches are turning yellow and dying but maybe that was from the
transplanting.  I just sprayed them with a mixture of water and dishsoap
(maybe a teaspoon to 32 oz. of water).  Will that help or hurt the situation.
  Any suggestions? --part1_a.a68b757.27e8dfa2_boundary-- From JeanSciFi@aol.com Tue Mar 20 17:01:37 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:01:37 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Weed book Message-ID: <88.3ef9c50.27e8e6f1@aol.com> --part1_88.3ef9c50.27e8e6f1_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Linda, I have a book titled "Weeds of the West" publisher is Western Society of Weed Science in cooperation with the Weatern U.S. Land Grant Universities Cooperative Extension Services. I have the 5th edition (1996). It has many great color pictures. JeanScifi@aol.com Master Gardener --part1_88.3ef9c50.27e8e6f1_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Linda,

I have a book titled "Weeds of the West" publisher is Western Society of Weed
Science in cooperation with the Weatern U.S. Land Grant Universities
Cooperative Extension Services. I have the 5th edition (1996).  It has many
great color pictures.

JeanScifi@aol.com
Master Gardener --part1_88.3ef9c50.27e8e6f1_boundary-- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Tue Mar 20 19:16:47 2001 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 12:16:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black Spots on Saguaro Message-ID: I'm getting black spots, pits, on my saguaro. They're in the crevices between the ribs at about eye level. It looks like rot. There are three of these spots. This morning, I saw a woodpecker fly away from the saguaro. I went to look and found another pit. There were black flakes around it and I'm sure the woodpecker was digging at it. Is this some kind of woodpecker behavior? What's he after, sap? Insects? I did have some true bugs on it last summer. About twenty who sat in a group and sucked sap. I got them with soapy water. Thanks in advance, - Jim From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 20 22:28:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 17:28:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Watering Mature Pines Message-ID: <9f.12c4747e.27e93371@aol.com> The Master Gardener Manual has excellent info on irrigating trees and plants and is available on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Wed Mar 21 01:01:49 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2001 18:01:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Black spots on saguaro References: Message-ID: <3AB7FD7D.1419360A@qwest.net> Jim: The woodpecker isn't the culprit here. It may be bacterial necrosis. You can read about this and see if the description fits at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/saguaro.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > I'm getting black spots, pits, on my saguaro. They're in the crevices > between the ribs at about eye level. It looks like rot. There are three of > these spots. > > This morning, I saw a woodpecker fly away from the saguaro. I went to look > and found another pit. There were black flakes around it and I'm sure the > woodpecker was digging at it. Is this some kind of woodpecker behavior? > What's he after, sap? Insects? > > I did have some true bugs on it last summer. About twenty who sat in a > group and sucked sap. I got them with soapy water. > > Thanks in advance, > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jhconrad@earthlink.net Wed Mar 21 15:11:41 2001 From: jhconrad@earthlink.net (Julie Conrad) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 08:11:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Australian travelers Message-ID: <3AB8C4A9.10B1@earthlink.net> _________________________ USA TEACHING AND RESEARCH TOUR JUNE/JULY 2001 20 March 2001 We would like to take this opportunity to introduce ourselves to you.  Our names are Morag Gamble and Evan Raymond.  We are from Crystal Waters Permaculture Village in Queensland, Australia. We will be in the San Francisco area  from June 20 - July 2, 2001.  We have been invited to co-teach a course at the Eco-village Training Center in Tennessee (3-23 July) and will also be hosted by the Center for Ecoliteracy  in Berkeley before teaching in Japan. In the time we have available  before our teaching commitments we would very much like to make links and present talks for  organisations and projects involved in eco-design, permaculture, ecovillages, urban agriculture and environmental education.   Last year we spent 2 months on a similar teaching and research tour in the UK and Italy and in that time gave presentations to over 25 groups.  The information exchange and cross-cultural exchange was a very valuable experience. We are available to make presentations about Crystal Waters Permaculture Village, Permaculture, City Farms and Community Gardens, Sustainable Community Development and Environmental Education.  Please contact us if you are interested in arranging a talk on one or more of these topics (see outlines below).  We would be grateful of you could pass this message to others you know might be interested in meeting with us during our visit. We are available to present talks and slide shows about: CRYSTAL WATERS PERMACULTURE VILLAGE Slide show and discussion: 1-3 hours Our home and the venue for our courses and workshops is Crystal Waters Permaculture Village. Crystal Waters is a leading-edge centre for sustainability education and an internationally recognised ecologically designed settlement.  This village, established in 1989, is home to 200 permanent residents and abundant wildlife.  It is one of the first villages in the world designed using the principles of Permaculture and offers guidance for future planning and design of sustainable human settlements.   Crystal Waters received the United Nations World Habitat Award in 1995 for its "pioneering ways in demonstrating new low impact and sustainable ways of living" and has been listed in the top 40 of the UN Best Practices database. There are many aspects of Crystal Waters and ecovillage design we can present and discuss.  We are open presenting an overview or focussing on particular issues which are of interest to your organisation. Also available: Crystal Waters video 15 minutes Morag is currently writing a book about the residents of this eco-village, their lives and work. INTRODUCTION TO PERMACULTURE DESIGN Slide Show and discussion  1.5 - 3.5 hours An exploration of the ethics and principles of Permaculture and their broad-ranging application in urban and rural areas, in homes and schools, in western and non-western countries. AUSTRALIAN CITY FARMS AND COMMUNITY GARDENS Slide Presentation and Discussion – 1-2 hours Morag and Evan are co-founders of a city farm in the heart of Brisbane.   Since the establishment of Northey Street City Farm in 1994, the project participants have successfully transformed a one hectare piece of parkland into an abundant food forest thriving community centre and place of learning.  This city farm has been a launching platform for numerous other positive initiatives in the local area, and has pioneered the concept of city farms in the state of Queensland.  Morag and Evan have shared the inspiring story of Northey Street City Farm around the world, and as co-founders and regional co-ordinators of the Australian City Farms and Community Gardens Network, are also able to share the experiences of projects from around Australia SUSTAINABLE COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT AND ENVIRONMENTAL EDUCATION IN BALI Slide Presentation and Discussion  1-2 hours In a remote village in the west of Bali, a holistic community-led model of sustainable village development is emerging.  The project aims include forest conservation and restoration, catchment management, sustainable agriculture, seed-saving, eco-tourism, small eco-enterprise development for women/youth,  edible schoolyards, etc  It is an inspiring story demonstrating that the current path of development, globalisation and consumer-culture is not inevitably the path of progress. It helps us to redefine terms ‘progress’ and ‘development’ and see our own culture and the changes we need to make much more clearly. Also in Bali , barren schoolyards and classrooms are being transformed into interactive, productive and inspiring learning environments – environments which aid understanding of our interconnected relationship with nature and provide fresh local nutritious food. These village primary schools throughout Bali are trialing the new environmental education curriculum which is set to become an integrated part of the Indonesian National curriculum. Morag is has been actively involved in the development of these projects and spends a few months a year in Bali as a trainer and consultant. PROFILE MORAG GAMBLE AND EVAN RAYMOND Morag Gamble and Evan Raymond live and work at the award winning Crystal Waters Permaculture Village in Queensland,  Australia. Morag an Evan are teachers of ecological design and permaculture. They have led courses and workshops in eight countries.  Their programs range from half-day introductory workshops to 2 week intensive residential certificate courses.  These attract international participants from a wide variety of backgrounds.  Through the Crystal Waters College which they have recently co-founded, they offer the following: Ecovillage Design Program - ecovillage design course and practicum Permaculture Program - permaculture design certificate course, hands-on permaculture workshops, city farm permaculture design workshops, seminars International Ecological Studies Program - a program of courses led by International Scholars They manage an ecological design firm and for almost a decade they have been actively working both in Australia and around the world with community-based organisations creating and supporting the successful development of projects in both urban and rural areas. They established Permaculture Brisbane and are two of the founders of Northey Street City Farm. They are co-founders of the Australian City Farms and Community Gardens Network, local food initiatives, community festivals and environmental education programs.  They are co-founders of the International Ecological Studies Program and the Crystal Waters College and work very closely with the Global Ecovillage Network Oceania/Asia Inc. Morag has also been a Director of the Crystal Waters Community Co-op since 1998 and is an advisor to IDEP - an Indonesian Foundation for environmental education and sustainable development based in Bali.  She is currently developing a national environmental curriculum for Indonesian primary schools and works with a number of villages in the establishment of a community led sustainable community development project in the west of Bali. Morag Gamble holds a Bachelor of Environmental Planning and Design, and a Postgraduate Diploma of Environmental Planning and Design (Landscape Architecture) from the University of Melbourne and has studied extensively at Schumacher College in England - an international centre for ecological thinking.  Evan Raymond holds a degree in Coastal Management from Southern Cross University and a Postgraduate Diploma of Geographical Information Systems from the University of Queensland. SUSTAINABLE FUTURES 50 Crystal Waters MS16 Maleny QLD 4552 AUSTRALIA ph/fax: +61 (0)7 5494 4833 courses@permaculture.au.com www.permaculture.au.com Sustainable Futures of Crystal Waters aims to help people develop the practical knowledge and skills to create a sustainable future by providing and teaching practical courses and workshops internationally; assisting individuals and communities to engage in sustainable planning and design; and writing and distributing publications about sustainable ways of living. From janet@usawebservices.com Wed Mar 21 17:22:05 2001 From: janet@usawebservices.com (janet@usawebservices.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 10:22:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103211722.f2LHM5W23401@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I find a lawnwatering guide? We have a mixed bermuda and St. Augusting lawn that is dormant. No winter lawn was put in this year. When do we need to start watering? how often? how much? Thanks. From JackLafferty@msn.com Wed Mar 21 18:01:03 2001 From: JackLafferty@msn.com (JackLafferty@msn.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 11:01:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103211801.f2LI13W03612@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Japanese privet tree in my yard that has been loosing leaves steadily since last fall. Several limbs seem to have died and the tree was frostbitten in the upper areas of foliage during the several sub-freezing nights we experienced this past winter. There seems to be some new growth budding out, but the tree doesn't look too healthy to me. Is there anything I can do to improve the health of this tree. The tree is approximately twelve feet tall and has a four to five inch trunk. From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 21 19:30:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:30:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn Watering Guide References: <200103211722.f2LHM5W23401@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB9016F.441FB06D@qwest.net> Here are three resources: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/t-tips.htm http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#TOP http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Linda Guy Master Gardener janet@usawebservices.com wrote: > Where can I find a lawnwatering guide? > We have a mixed bermuda and St. Augusting lawn that is dormant. No winter lawn was put in this year. When do we need to start watering? how often? how much? > > Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From kmp@wescap.com Wed Mar 21 19:41:10 2001 From: kmp@wescap.com (kmp@wescap.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 12:41:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103211941.f2LJfAW26705@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it ok to cut back Mexican Bird of Paradise now that it has gotten so warm. Also, I have two ornamental grass plants (the onese that get the purple shoots). Can they also be cut back now and if so how far back should I cut them? From rkdassin@mpaz.org Wed Mar 21 21:54:18 2001 From: rkdassin@mpaz.org (rkdassin@mpaz.org) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 14:54:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103212154.f2LLsHW27915@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it possible for evening sessions for the Master Gardener program? I am a teacher and feel that I could be an assest working with young people. We have agrigulture classes here. Thank you! Robin D. From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed Mar 21 22:51:43 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 15:51:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brief update: Oleander & terra cotta pots References: <200103212154.f2LLsHW27915@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB9307F.E918C3D3@AuroraNow.org> Hi everyone, I figured I'd just report a brief update on some of my earlier problems. First, when I dug up my oleanders to move them, it was easy to figure out their problem. The dirt in the area they were was so black and rich it looked like Michigan topsoil! Go figure. It didn't look like that when I planted them last June--just typical AZ sand. No wonder the rose bushes a few feet away are so happy. ha. At any rate, the oleanders have been in their new spot (nice, poor, unamended sand) about a week and already they're much happier and showing signs of new growth. So the lesson is: brown leaf tips, folded leaves and dying leaves may be a sign of too much moisture/poor drainage (soil too rich). I think I'll go buy two more rose bushes for the holes where the oleander were. Also, I repotted all my houseplants that were in the new terra cotta pots I had purchased in Tubac. Since Ursula said she only had marginal success with sealants, I just lined the inside of each pot with saran wrap, cut a bit oversize, taped temporarily in place. After I refilled them with the plants and potting soil I just trimmed away the excess plastic and cut through the plastic through the drain holes. My terra cotta isn't turning white and I don't have to water my plants everyday anymore :-) Oh, and Ursula, I think my dogs read your email. They've brought me three rabbits that ventured into "their" yard in the last week. eeewwwww! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From bayers@honors.arizona.edu Wed Mar 21 22:57:50 2001 From: bayers@honors.arizona.edu (Jim Bayers) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 15:57:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arborist? Neucrotic Spot on Saguaro Message-ID: I'm pretty sure I have neucrotic spot on my saguaro. Anyone know an aborist--is arborist the right term?--in the tucson area. I don't trust myself to cut out the infection. Thanks, - Jim From 116ventral@earthlink.net Wed Mar 21 23:18:02 2001 From: 116ventral@earthlink.net (116ventral@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:18:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103212318.f2LNI2W18412@Ag.Arizona.Edu> please send email for planting caladium(elephant ear) and package says can be used in ponds.how would i go about setting my tubers in my pond? i have many tubers and will also need info using same in large pots.thanks in advance, m. capristo From 116central@earthlink.net Wed Mar 21 23:18:36 2001 From: 116central@earthlink.net (116central@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:18:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103212318.f2LNIaW18508@Ag.Arizona.Edu> please send email for planting caladium(elephant ear) and package says can be used in ponds.how would i go about setting my tubers in my pond? i have many tubers and will also need info using same in large pots.thanks in advance, m. capristo From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 21 23:53:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:53:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] MG Classes References: <200103212154.f2LLsHW27915@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AB93F05.B59B7EE0@qwest.net> There are evening classes but none in the near future. Check out http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/mgs/mg-broch.htm for more information. Linda Guy Master Gardener rkdassin@mpaz.org wrote: > Is it possible for evening sessions for the Master Gardener program? I am a teacher and feel that I could be an assest working with young people. We have agrigulture classes here. > > Thank you! > > Robin D. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed Mar 21 23:56:43 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 16:56:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Necrotic Spot on Saguaro References: Message-ID: <3AB93FBB.202F2F3@qwest.net> Although I understand it is not a very difficult thing to do [remove an infection from your saguaro], you might check out this website to locate a certified arborist, using zip codes. http://www2.champaign.isa-arbor.com/arborists/arborist.html Do they make any local recommendations at the Tucson Botanical Gardens or Arizona Sonora Desert Museum hotlines? Linda Guy Master Gardener Jim Bayers wrote: > I'm pretty sure I have neucrotic spot on my saguaro. > > Anyone know an aborist--is arborist the right term?--in the tucson area. I > don't trust myself to cut out the infection. > > Thanks, > > - Jim > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 22 01:00:39 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:00:39 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Spring pruning Message-ID: I assume that what you are calling a Mexican Bird of Paradise is actually a Red Bird of Paradise ( Caesalpinia pulcherrima ) , there has been some confusion about the common name of this red flowering plant. The Mexican Bird of Paradise ( Caesalpinia mexicana ) has yellow flowers. Regardless which it is you should be able to cut it as well as your ornamental grass back now. I would suggest that you not cut back quite as much now as you could have earlier. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 22 01:00:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 20:00:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Japanese Privet Message-ID: Since the Japanese Privet is hardy down to 20 degrees F you must live outside of Maricopa County for we didn't have temps that low this last winter. If it did get frost damaged last winter wait until the new growth gets a good start so that you will be able to determine if you have to prune off dead branches. The best thing that you can do for this tree as well as any other trees that you have is to be sure that they are deep watered adequately. Check out this website for great info on watering trees and plants: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jennaz31@aol.com Thu Mar 22 14:08:43 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:08:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103221408.f2ME8hW10178@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently planted some roses. I planted two climbing types: Blaze and Cecile Brunner and a bush type called Garden Party. I have two concerns. I am noticing leaf discoloration on all of them, it is circular patterns of dark green and light green all over the leaf set. It seems to be starting at the lower leaves, eventually the majority of leaf is yellow with some green spots. My second question is that one of the Blaze climbers is producing new growth like crazy but I have only had one flower, whereas the other has a ton of flowers and is not producing new leaves hardly at all. I guess I have one more question. My Cecile Brunner climbers defintely have rust spots, so I am looking for an organic treatment to the problem. Maybe I got a bad bunch of roses! :-) Thanks in advance for your time. Jenn From jimm12075@aol.com Thu Mar 22 14:34:34 2001 From: jimm12075@aol.com (jimm12075@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:34:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103221434.f2MEYYW14054@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi I've got a small patch of hybrid bermuda turf that's about a year old. It's green as heck and appears to be healthy, but there are about a bazillion flea-type insects living in it. What are they and should I do something about them or just enjoy them when they jump on us and the dog? Thanks a bunch Jim From Rbinhood63@aol.com Thu Mar 22 17:09:42 2001 From: Rbinhood63@aol.com (Rbinhood63@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 10:09:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103221709.f2MH9gW14922@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Re: Shoestring Acacia 9ft.tall, planted 3 wks ago, leaves turning yellow. Last 3 days, daily trickling water on it for about l hour. We're out in the desert, not the city. Hard ground so we added some packaged soil when planted.. ???????? From SGZERO@AOL.COM Thu Mar 22 23:04:54 2001 From: SGZERO@AOL.COM (SGZERO@AOL.COM) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 16:04:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103222304.f2MN4sW05041@Ag.Arizona.Edu> MY FATHER HAS PLANTED SIX ROSES APROXIMATELY 2' APART. THEY ARE IN FULL SUNSHINE AND HAVE GREAT DRAINAGE. THEY WERE PLANTED IN JANUARY FROM BARE ROOT STOCK. (JACKSON-PERKINS) THEY ARE COMING UP GANGBUSTERS, HOWEVER, THE BUDS APPEAR TO HAVE SOME TYPE OF FUNGUS OR ROT. I HAVE NOT SEEN THIS BEFORE. THE PLANTS LOOK BEAUTIFUL AND HEALTHY BUT THE BUDS LOOK LIKE SOMETHING IS EITHER EATING THEM FROM THE INSIDE OUT OR THERE IS SOME TYPE OF ROT GOING ON. CAN YOU HELP? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 22 23:22:24 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:22:24 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Shoestring Acacia with yellow leaves Message-ID: If you are watering every day you are probably over watering which is causing the leaves to yellow. You need to water a newly planted tree enough so that the rootball does not dry out for at least a month. With the temperature in the low 90s now you may have to water every day to keep the root ball moist. But about two weeks ago the temps were in the 60s and the tree didn't require as much water. Check out this website on tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 22 23:22:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:22:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Rose problems Message-ID: Jenn, If you live in the low desert of Arizona it is unlikely that you have rust on your roses. I've been growing roses here for 24 years and have never seen rust on my roses or anyone elses. With all the rain we've had this winter there could be a first time. The American Rose Society recommends using a fungicide such as Triforine and others. Green Light and others market an organic product made from neem oil which is suposed to help get rid of fungi such as rust. I can't vouch for it since I've not experienced rust on my roses. It is a little early for most roses to bloom here, I have several that are just starting to bloom but most of them have not shown a bud yet. Roses do not all have the same bloom cycle, the cycle can vary as much as two to three weeks. As for your leaf discoloration I am unable to give you a diagnosis from your description. Rose Mosaic could be one possibility, yet it is unlikely that all of your roses would have it. Unfortunately there is not a cure for Rose Mosaic. My sugestion is to bring sample leaves either to the nursery where you purchased the roses, or if you live in the Phoenix area to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Another possibility would be an American Rose Society Consulting Rosarian. If you will tell me where you live I'll get back to you with some one who should be able to help. Let me know how much and how often you are watering the roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 22 23:50:40 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 18:50:40 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Roses with a fungus Message-ID: <89.4167d17.27ebe9d0@aol.com> If the substance you see on the buds and leaves is white and powdery looking then it is Powdery Mildew . If you live in the low desert of Arizona it is the time of year when we see Powdery Mildew on our roses if we have not sprayed with a fungicide as a preventative. I have used several different fungicides such as Funginex, Immunox, Green Light's Neem Oil as well as others. Most are not curative but are preventative. It is how ever important that you spray now to keep the fungi from spreading and continue spraying for at least the next two months on a weekly basis. It is recommended that you water your roses the day before you spray. I minimise the amount of fungi that get to my roses by washing down my roses with a strong spray of water at least once a week. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Fri Mar 23 02:50:00 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:50:00 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103230250.f2N2o0W10130@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a grapefruit tree in my yard and recently it has exploded with new growth and many buds-for the first time for this young tree. Most of the new growth is deep dark green and very glossy. But many of the new leaves are yellowish and don't look very healthy. In January and February I applied the refular citrus fertilizer and some ironite to the tree basin. My question is the ironite just not able to be used since it is not hot enough yet or am I overwatering. I water about every 2 to 3 weeks in march. Any suggestions? From LDBarrett@aol.com Fri Mar 23 03:03:34 2001 From: LDBarrett@aol.com (LDBarrett@aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:03:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103230303.f2N33YW15131@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have grown a beautiful winter lawn, but my 75 pound Golden Retriever is leaving brown spots of grass where he has urinated. Any suggestions? I thought I had read something about putting a little bit of tomato juice in the dog's water. Thank you. From nkrandall@juno.com Fri Mar 23 04:39:57 2001 From: nkrandall@juno.com (nkrandall@juno.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:39:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103230439.f2N4dvW27706@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it possible and is it efficient to put in a drip line system under a lawn instead of the regular sprinkler system? If so where can I get some instructions on how to do it? Thanks From frostinaz@msn.com Fri Mar 23 13:40:21 2001 From: frostinaz@msn.com (frostinaz@msn.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:40:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103231340.f2NDeLW23062@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Are thick rinds typical of ruby red grapefruit? If not, what causes thick rinds in them? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 23 14:19:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:19:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grub ID References: <200103192246.f2JMkfW02884@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABB5B5A.1EC55AA0@qwest.net> I'm not particularly good at this, but if no one else has responded, allow me to suggest two things. First, you can peruse the Entomology section of the online Master Gardener manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/index.html Also, you can bring a grub to the Maricopa County Extension Office which will take up the matter in its weekly diagnostic session and report back to you later by phone. The office is at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 (602) 470-8086 ext. 301. Or, are you near one of our satellite offices whose addresses are at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener valpogl@aol.com wrote: > Help. > I found what I believe are grubs in my vegetable garden. They are about 1/4" long by about 1/16 inch wide with an orange head. Good or bad? Thanks, Cindy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 23 14:20:16 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:20:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dutch Bulbs References: <200103200015.f2K0FkW23101@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABB5BA0.BF50BEC2@qwest.net> Can you be more specific as to the bulbs you are discussing? [Dutch iris, daffodil, tulip]. Linda Guy Master Gardener supister@hotmail.com wrote: > I was curious if Dutch Bulbs grow very well > in Phoenix? If they do, what is the process > to plant them and maintain them? Are there > special considerations to keep in mind? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 23 14:25:35 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 07:25:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf for Shade References: <200103181646.f2IGkU020766@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABB5CDE.D1A78CF9@qwest.net> The issue isn't one of flood irrigation, but of the turf's access to sunlight. This post by fellow MG Mike Hills is two years old but still applies. He is also a turf agronomist. >Bermudagrass lawns are the main turf in The Valley and none of the available >Bermuda varieties (seeded nor sodded) are at all tolerant of shade. The >problem has nothing to do with any fungus from the Mesquite trees, as >bermudas are extremely disease tolerant. It is merely caused by the shade from your clients' maturing trees and is a fairly common problem as >people's landscapes mature. > >The best and usually easiest solution is to trim the trees up - not just >thinning the canopy as you have done before, but actully moving the crown >upwards by removing some of the large lower limbs. You will have to >decide if this is possible based on the individual trees and their current >branch structure - this will allow more sun to shine in under the sides of >the tree during the days. If you do this, then you also need to mow the >turf under the trees at a taller mowing height - 2 to 3 inches tall - to >permit the grass to have more leaf surface to trap and colllect the limited >sunlight. > >Option #2 would be to plant some "Turf Tall Fescue" seed this fall and >winter. This is a cool climate turfgrass species that is very shade >tolerant - available from seed at most local garden centers and nurseries >under many different brand names and labels. This grass species will >remain green year round in our climate, but stresses severely during the hot >summers and needs far more water than bermuda does. However, under trees, the temperature is generally about 20 degrees coller, so the Tall Fescue >will usually do well and survive the summers in shaded conditions. The >seed needs to be planted NOW in order to get the grass plants root system's >developed well enough before next summer's heat stress returns. PLANT 6 to 8 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet in a well prepared seed bed according >to the label instructions and instructions sheets from your grass seed >supplier. DO NOT plant extra seed!!!! More is definitely NOT better, as the seedlings will be too crowded to develop a good root system and will >succumb to heat and disease next summer. > >Option #3 is to plant St. Augustine or Zoysia grass - Both are warm >climate gras speices with good shade tolerance. St. Augustine from sod >planted next summer - Zoysia from seed or sod planted next summer. Both >of these go dormant in winter like the bermudas and can be overseeded with >ryegrass for winter green turf - although they are not as tolerant of >overseeding practices as the bermudas are. > >There is a good article with more detailed information on this in one of the >1999 issues of the 'Horticultural Communicator' which you can access at our >website where you posted this querstion. Find the Communicator pages >and you should be able to query for the artcile on shaded turfgrass >problems. If you have any problems tracking this down, please advise and >we can help. This section in the Communicator that Mike alluded to is a good reference, as well as the turf chapter in the online Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck! Linda Guy, Master Gardener jfleishans@aol.com wrote: > What lawn will grow under mature citrus trees that are flood irrigated? Palmetto [Bermuda] has been recommended as well as Ddiamond [z-grass]. Any help you can give will be appreciated. Thanks > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jtaperno@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 23 16:21:24 2001 From: jtaperno@worldnet.att.net (jtaperno@worldnet.att.net) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:21:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103231621.f2NGLOW20644@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I identify a particular type of lawn grass?> From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 23 16:47:25 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:47:25 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, yellowish leaves Message-ID: My first thought would be to check the water and make sure the soil is drying somewhat between waterings. Too much water can cause yellow leaves (perhaps from a few weeks ago when temperatures were much cooler and the leaves were starting to emerge). In general, I would use a chelated iron instead of Ironite. Chelated iron is more expensive but it is more available to the plant in our highly alkaline soils. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:50:00 -0700 (MST) > >I have a grapefruit tree in my yard and recently it has exploded with new >growth and many buds-for the first time for this young tree. Most of the >new growth is deep dark green and very glossy. But many of the new leaves >are yellowish and don't look very healthy. In January and February I >applied the refular citrus fertilizer and some ironite to the tree basin. >My question is the ironite just not able to be used since it is not hot >enough yet or am I overwatering. I water about every 2 to 3 weeks in >march. Any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 23 16:54:28 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:54:28 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn, brown patches Message-ID: Some thoughts (I am not an expert on this).. Did this problem just begin? As the weather warms, the winter lawn will begin to die. I think dog urine is a good source of nitrogen, but perhaps this is too much of a good thing :-) You might try watering the areas to flush out the urine or try trainig the dog to use just one area of the yard (away from the grass). I have not heard anything about the tomato juice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: LDBarrett@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:03:34 -0700 (MST) > >We have grown a beautiful winter lawn, but my 75 pound Golden Retriever is >leaving brown spots of grass where he has urinated. Any suggestions? I >thought I had read something about putting a little bit of tomato juice in >the dog's water. Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 23 17:03:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:03:24 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, thick rinds Message-ID: Young grapefruit trees may produce fruit with a thick rind. Thickness diminishes as the tree ages. Too much nitrogen fertilizer may cause thick rinds. Generally, you will not need to fertilize at all for 1 to 2 years after planting your tree. Be sure you know your tree age because the amount of nitrogen fertilizer you use depends on the tree's age. 'Sheepnose' occurs on young grapefruit subject to high temperatures when the fruit is forming. None of these conditions harm the quality of the fruit. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: frostinaz@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:40:21 -0700 (MST) > >Are thick rinds typical of ruby red grapefruit? If not, what causes thick >rinds in them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 23 17:11:03 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 17:11:03 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn, grass ID Message-ID: Identifying different types of lawn grass can be challenging. I would suggest taking a sample to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office. Basic characteristics of the different grasses are also described in the lawn section of the Master Gardener Manual: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ click on "contents" and then "lawn" Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: jtaperno@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:21:24 -0700 (MST) > >How can I identify a particular type of lawn grass?> > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 23 16:43:20 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 09:43:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thick Rinds on Citrus In-Reply-To: <200103231340.f2NDeLW23062@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Here is an earlier answer to a similar question. You may also find more information by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and typing in rinds for more discussions on the subject. Ursula Miller Fertilizer causes thick rinds. Are you sure that you don't have a tree from below the graft (rough lemon)? More water (but not watering more often than every 10 days) during the heat and as the fruit ripens might help the juicyness of the fruit or pick it sooner. On Tue, 18 Jan 2000 19:11:36 -0700 (MST) palshatti@uswest.net writes: >arid_gardener >We have a five year old semi-dwarf lemon tree. The first winter it had >a small, but terrific crops of lemons. Every winter since the fruit >has had very thick peels (lemons the size of grapefruit) but the flesh >is very dry, almost useless. What should I do to improve fruit >quality?. I water deeply once or twice a month (depending on temp). >Just fertilized 2 or 3 times with Miracle Grow. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of frostinaz@msn.com Sent: Friday, March 23, 2001 6:40 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Are thick rinds typical of ruby red grapefruit? If not, what causes thick rinds in them? _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From pkmett@doitnow.com Fri Mar 23 19:11:44 2001 From: pkmett@doitnow.com (pkmett@doitnow.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:11:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103231911.f2NJBiW00630@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 20 eldarica pines that are about 15 years old. I used to fertilize them with a blended mix. I stopped that several years ago.I have a problem with a LOT of needle drop in the mid to late summer. Right now they are in bloom and emitting a yellow powder. Is there a way to stop the blooming and why so much needle drop. The needles literally cover the ground after a windstorm. I used to deep water every 4 weeks and went to every 3 weeks last year to see if that helped the needle drop. I don't think it did. The trees have expanded deep wells on bubblers. From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri Mar 23 20:17:55 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:17:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] EXOTIC GRASS ALERT Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010323131713.00b15290@ag.arizona.edu> --=====================_8503499==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed >EXOTIC GRASS ALERT > >Fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) and buffelgrass (Pennisetum ciliare) >are spreading through the Sonoran Desert and threatening our distinctive >native Sonoran Desert plants. These two exotic grasses form dense >colonies, where native species do not grow. Both spread quickly and >produce monocultures that are difficult to eradicate. > >Buffelgrass and fountain grass form continuous stands of highly flammable >material that carries wildfire. As our native plants do not produce this >continuous fuel, fire has been historically rare in the Sonoran >Desert. Because our native species did not evolve with fire they are >seriously damaged and even killed by it. Palo verde trees and saguaro >cactuses, icons of the Sonoran Desert, are especially vulnerable to fire >damage. > >Fountain grass and buffelgrass must be added to the Arizona Noxious Weed >List. These species could be listed in either or both of the following >categories: > >1) Prohibited species the species may not be brought into or sold in the >state. >2) Regulated species the state can, in extreme cases, force landowners to >eradicate serious infestations. > > >The first step in listing these exotic grasses as noxious weeds requires >letters of concern, from both groups and individuals, to the Arizona >Noxious Weed Program. PLEASE HELP BY WRITING A LETTER OF CONCERN ABOUT >ONE OR BOTH OF THESE SPECIES. Please speak from your heart about the >importance of listing these exotic grasses. Describe your concern for the >Sonoran Desert and your personal observations of either or both of these >plants. Please send your letters by April 30, 2001. > >Based on the letters of concern he receives, the coordinator of the >Arizona Noxious Weed Program recommends new listings to the director of >the Arizona Department of Agriculture. The department then notifies >stakeholders of the proposed listing, outlining the procedure for public >comment. All opinions and scientific evidence are weighed in determining >additions to the Noxious Weed List. > >Listing fountain grass and buffelgrass as noxious weeds will not stop the >spread from populations already established in Arizona, but it will >prevent future plantings of these species. In addition, this is the first >step in prompting the Arizona Department of Transportation to reduce >stands of these exotic grasses along our roadways. Roadways contain large >populations of these species and allow dispersal of seeds into new areas. >In listing these species as noxious weeds the state of Arizona will go on >record as recognizing these grasses as threats to our Sonoran Desert >ecosystems. > >Please feel free to pass this on to anyone you think may be able to help. > >Please send letters, by April 30, 2001, to > >Dr. Francis E. Northam >Arizona Noxious Weed Program Coordinator >Arizona Dept. of Agriculture >1688 West Adams Street >Phoenix, AZ 85007 > >If you have any questions, please feel free to contact Cindy Salo >csalo@ag.arizona.edu >520-400-2462 > >Thank you, >Cindy Salo >Pima Invasive Species Council >School of Renewable Natural Resources >Room 301 BioSciences East Bldg. #43 >University of Arizona Tucson, AZ 85721-0043 >Phone 520-400-2462 Fax 520-621-8801 > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ --=====================_8503499==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"
EXOTIC GRASS ALERT

Fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum) and buffelgrass (Pennisetum ciliare) are spreading through the Sonoran Desert and threatening our distinctive native Sonoran Desert plants.  These two exotic grasses form dense colonies, where native species do not grow.  Both spread quickly and produce monocultures that are difficult to eradicate.

Buffelgrass and fountain grass form continuous stands of highly flammable material that carries wildfire.  As our native plants do not produce this continuous fuel, fire has been historically rare in the Sonoran Desert.  Because our native species did not evolve with fire they are seriously damaged and even killed by it.  Palo verde trees and saguaro cactuses, icons of the Sonoran Desert, are especially vulnerable to fire damage.

Fountain grass and buffelgrass must be added to the Arizona Noxious Weed List.  These species could be listed in either or both of the following categories:

1) Prohibited species the species may not be brought into or sold in the state.
2) Regulated species the state can, in extreme cases, force landowners to eradicate serious infestations.


The first step in listing these exotic grasses as noxious weeds requires letters of concern, from both groups and individuals, to the Arizona Noxious Weed Program.  PLEASE HELP BY WRITING A LETTER OF CONCERN ABOUT ONE OR BOTH OF THESE SPECIES.  Please speak from your heart about the importance of listing these exotic grasses.  Describe your concern for the Sonoran Desert and your personal observations of either or both of these plants.  Please send your letters by April 30, 2001.

Based on the letters of concern he receives, the coordinator of the Arizona Noxious Weed Program recommends new listings to the director of the Arizona Department of Agriculture.  The department then notifies stakeholders of the proposed listing, outlining the procedure for public comment.  All opinions and scientific evidence are weighed in determining additions to the Noxious Weed List.

Listing fountain grass and buffelgrass as noxious weeds will not stop the spread from populations already established in Arizona, but it will prevent future plantings of these species.  In addition, this is the first step in prompting the Arizona Department of Transportation to reduce stands of these exotic grasses along our roadways.  Roadways contain large populations of these species and allow dispersal of seeds into new areas. In listing these species as noxious weeds the state of Arizona will go on
record as recognizing these grasses as threats to our Sonoran Desert ecosystems.

Please feel free to pass this on to anyone you think may be able to help.

Please send letters, by April 30, 2001, to

Dr. Francis E. Northam
Arizona Noxious Weed Program Coordinator
Arizona Dept. of Agriculture
1688 West Adams Street
Phoenix, AZ  85007

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact Cindy Salo
csalo@ag.arizona.edu
520-400-2462

Thank you,
Cindy Salo
Pima Invasive Species Council
School of Renewable Natural Resources
Room 301 BioSciences East Bldg. #43
University of Arizona     Tucson, AZ  85721-0043
Phone 520-400-2462      Fax 520-621-8801


 ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~
--=====================_8503499==_.ALT-- From cenalmor@yahoo.com Fri Mar 23 20:17:09 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 12:17:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, thick rinds In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010323201709.18226.qmail@web2304.mail.yahoo.com> Linda, how about grapefruit that grows abnormally large fruit, the rind is very thick and the fruit is fibery and dry? I have a friend whose tree did that this year, and the bowling bowl-size fruit all had to be thrown away. What could have caused this? --- Linda Drew wrote: > Young grapefruit trees may produce fruit > with a thick rind. Thickness diminishes as > the tree ages. > > Too much nitrogen fertilizer may cause thick > rinds. Generally, you will not need to fertilize > at all for 1 to 2 years after planting your tree. > > Be sure you know your tree age because the amount > of nitrogen fertilizer you use depends on the tree's > age. > > 'Sheepnose' occurs on young grapefruit subject to > high temperatures when the fruit is forming. > > None of these conditions harm the quality of the > fruit. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: frostinaz@msn.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort > WWW page > >Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 06:40:21 -0700 (MST) > > > >Are thick rinds typical of ruby red grapefruit? If > not, what causes thick > >rinds in them? > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at > http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 23 21:16:09 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:16:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] EXOTIC GRASS ALERT References: <4.3.1.2.20010323131713.00b15290@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3ABBBD19.A9F2C0DE@AuroraNow.org> How does one go about trying to ID exotic grasses? I have widespread patches of new grasses coming up throughout my 5 acres, which we're sure is recovering graze land adjacent to current ongoing grazing land--and who knows what the government has planted back in the "wilds" to sustain the herds. The grass I'm getting is a small bunch grass, growing in 4-6" dia. prostrate circles. They sprung up with the winter rains and are now going to seed with a distinctive red seedhead extending out beyond the bunch. Is there an easy way to tell a "good" native grass from a "bad" invasive type? I just figured I'd watch it, but I certainly don't want it to choke out my lovely blankets of poppies and desert globemallows. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 23 23:34:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:34:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus with yellow leaves Message-ID: It is normal for citrus to have yellow leaves at this time of year, the yellow leaves will drop and you will have nice green leaves. Ironite is very slow acting,it often takes a year to become effective. Sounds like you are on target with your watering. Check out this website for info on watering citrus: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 and this one for citrus leaves: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/leaf-drp.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 23 23:34:29 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 18:34:29 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Underground Drip System for Turf Message-ID: <96.11d64330.27ed3785@aol.com> Eight or ten years ago I installed in a playground an underground drip system in which the emitters were installed within the 1/2 inch feed line. The emitters were installed on 2 foot centers. For about two or three years the system worked great, it watered the grass adequately, but best of all the children did not have to play on wet grass every time the turf was irrigated. One negative was that after fertilizing it was necessary to use a moveable water sprinkler to wash in the fertilizer. It also was impossible to aerate the grass since the lines were only installed about 3 inches deep. Gophers ocassionally lunched on the feed lines which meant having to repair the line. I could live with those problems, but after about four years the emitters started to plug up to the point where it was necessary to replace the system with sprinklers. To be absolutely fair in my appraisal of the system I need to admit that I didn't flush the system as often as was recommended which no doubt lead to the emitters plugging. I purchased the materials from Mesa Sprinkler Co. which has since been sold to Horizon Sprinkler Co Good luck.. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Cleo.Griffith@state.nm.us Fri Mar 23 17:08:29 2001 From: Cleo.Griffith@state.nm.us (Griffith, Cleo) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 10:08:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <40925B5D7208D511810100805FBB32230D1EEF@PORSCHE> From pamela@U.Arizona.EDU Fri Mar 23 23:48:02 2001 From: pamela@U.Arizona.EDU (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 16:48:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Underground Drip System for Turf In-Reply-To: <96.11d64330.27ed3785@aol.com> Message-ID: Parden me if I am wrong, but I believe most drip systems recommend that you don't install the drippers underground--I was working on mine this last year, and know I read that comment in some of the instruction booklets that I went over. Pamela ****** On Fri, 23 Mar 2001 RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > Eight or ten years ago I installed in a playground an underground drip > system in which the emitters were installed within the 1/2 inch feed line. > The emitters were installed on 2 foot centers. For about two or three years > the system worked great, it watered the grass adequately, but best of all the > children did not have to play on wet grass every time the turf was irrigated. > One negative was that after fertilizing it was necessary to use a moveable > water sprinkler to wash in the fertilizer. It also was impossible to aerate > the grass since the lines were only installed about 3 inches deep. Gophers > ocassionally lunched on the feed lines which meant having to repair the line. > I could live with those problems, but after about four years the emitters > started to plug up to the point where it was necessary to replace the system > with sprinklers. To be absolutely fair in my appraisal of the system I need > to admit that I didn't flush the system as often as was recommended which no > doubt lead to the emitters plugging. > I purchased the materials from Mesa Sprinkler Co. which has since been > sold to Horizon Sprinkler Co > > Good luck.. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From RkBetu@aol.com Sat Mar 24 00:31:07 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 19:31:07 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] non-blooming citrus Message-ID: <63.138f2be1.27ed44cb@aol.com> I have a citrus tree, presumably grapefruit, about six years old. It came up from seed. It is about 10' tall and looks very healthy. It has never bloomed (or had fruit, of course). I'm pretty sure the seed came from a normal, non-hybid, healthy tree. What could be the problem? Also, I have a carob, also about 6, that has never produced a single pod. It had a few pods on it when I bought it 6 yrs ago. It too looks very healthy. In this case, I want some pods! Answers anyone? Rock Betu From Landlightdesign@aol.com Sat Mar 24 02:01:45 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 21:01:45 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #71 - 14 msgs,Subsurface Irrigation Message-ID: --part1_bf.ca80074.27ed5a09_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Toro's DL2000 product and Nibco's Turf bubbler are both good products. Follow the manufactures direction closely, both systems have tricks. installation is harder then a normal spray system. Water and maintenance savings are worth the extra work. Installation isn't hard, but I can't over state the need to follow direction. If you have heard about subsurface causing streaks in the turf, installer didn't follow design parameters. Ewing irrigation sells both products and has a design manual for both. --part1_bf.ca80074.27ed5a09_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Toro's DL2000 product and Nibco's Turf bubbler are both good products. Follow
the manufactures direction closely, both systems have tricks. installation is
harder then a normal spray system. Water and maintenance savings are worth
the extra work.
Installation isn't hard, but I can't over state the need to follow direction.
If you have heard about subsurface causing streaks in the turf, installer
didn't follow design parameters. Ewing irrigation sells both products and has
a design manual for both. --part1_bf.ca80074.27ed5a09_boundary-- From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Sat Mar 24 07:54:04 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:54:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Underground Drip System for Turf In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010324075404.96898.qmail@web13003.mail.yahoo.com> Pamela, I think its about time to rewrite the book on drip irrigation. I have been installing drip and other subsurface irrigation systems for about 20 years. Here is what I have discovered. 1)Drip systems emit water at about 25psi,sufficient pressure to force water into the soil whether the emitter is above or below ground. 2)Placing the emitter at the 1/2 inch poly then running the 1/4 inch micro tube into the root zone will put water instantly into the root zone and conserve water and running time. 3) adjusting the running time properly so as not to wet the top 1-2 inches of soil prevents weed seeds from getting the water they need to germinate. I have even watered lawns with subsurface irrigation and never had a plant die from improper watering. You might want to attend one of my irrigation classes the next time its presented. I have lots of time saving ideas I've learned over the years.With the use of leaky pipe,you can water lawns, veggie beds ,flower beds and still aerate or turn the soil. --- Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > Pardon me if I am wrong, but I believe most drip > systems recommend that > you don't install the drippers underground--I was > working on mine this > last year, and know I read that comment in some of > the instruction > booklets that I went over. > > Pamela > ****** > > > On Fri, 23 Mar 2001 RodMcQ6@aol.com wrote: > > > Eight or ten years ago I installed in a > playground an underground drip > > system in which the emitters were installed within > the 1/2 inch feed line. > > The emitters were installed on 2 foot centers. For > about two or three years > > the system worked great, it watered the grass > adequately, but best of all the > > children did not have to play on wet grass every > time the turf was irrigated. > > One negative was that after fertilizing it was > necessary to use a moveable > > water sprinkler to wash in the fertilizer. It also > was impossible to aerate > > the grass since the lines were only installed > about 3 inches deep. Gophers > > ocassionally lunched on the feed lines which meant > having to repair the line. > > I could live with those problems, but after about > four years the emitters > > started to plug up to the point where it was > necessary to replace the system > > with sprinklers. To be absolutely fair in my > appraisal of the system I need > > to admit that I didn't flush the system as often > as was recommended which no > > doubt lead to the emitters plugging. > > I purchased the materials from Mesa Sprinkler > Co. which has since been > > sold to Horizon Sprinkler Co > > > > Good luck.. > > Rod McKusick > > Master Gardener > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 15:27:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:27:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Converting Turf References: <200102132243.PAA20124@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCBCCC.3C295324@qwest.net> I'm sorry you've waited so long for a response, but there isn't much you will do about this until your bermuda lawn is actively growing again in May/June. Most would recommend using any product with glyphosate [eg Round-up] which is a systemic and is inert in the soil. Read the directions for application. Generally, you should get your lawn growing vigorously and apply the product. Wait two-three weeks and begin to water lawn again; you will then reapply the systemic in those areas which respond to your ministrations. Two, sometimes three applications are necessary. You must be careful not to apply this to any other plant material that you want to maintain, because this is not a selective herbicide. I make every attempt to be as organic as possible, but this is one process where I will use a chemical. If your yard is small enough, you could dig out the top 8" of turf and soil and truck in some other soil. But use a good, clean source for the new soil. A neighbor converted his yard with this method and the fill was loaded with nut sedge, which is more difficult even than bermuda to be rid of. When we converted our front yard, we used a huge rototiller after the lawn was killed and then raked as much of the stolons and root systems out that we could. We have one or two small corners that we must still spot treat from time to time [areas from adjacent lawns and bermuda hiding under sidewalks type of thing] but in general we were very pleased with the results. We started our process in July and we were digging "washes" and trenching for drip irrigation in September. Hope this is helpful. Linda Guy Master Gardener kcountryman@sprintmail.com wrote: > Now that my kids are grown I want to convert > our grass yard to desert landscape. What's > the best and safest way to kill off the > bermuda grass? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 15:29:13 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:29:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Converting Turf References: <200103141811.f2EIBF023378@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCBD49.54D880EA@qwest.net> I am sending you a copy of a reply I just emailed to the same question. "I'm sorry you've waited so long for a response, but there isn't much you will do about this until your bermuda lawn is actively growing again in May/June. Most would recommend using any product with glyphosate [eg Round-up] which is a systemic and is inert in the soil. Read the directions for application. Generally, you should get your lawn growing vigorously and apply the product. Wait two-three weeks and begin to water lawn again; you will then reapply the systemic in those areas which respond to your ministrations. Two, sometimes three applications are necessary. You must be careful not to apply this to any other plant material that you want to maintain, because this is not a selective herbicide. "I make every attempt to be as organic as possible, but this is one process where I will use a chemical. If your yard is small enough, you could dig out the top 8" of turf and soil and truck in some other soil. But use a good, clean source for the new soil. A neighbor converted his yard with this method and the fill was loaded with nut sedge, which is more difficult even than bermuda to be rid of. "When we converted our front yard, we used a huge rototiller after the lawn was killed and then raked as much of the stolons and root systems out that we could. We have one or two small corners that we must still spot treat from time to time [areas from adjacent lawns and bermuda hiding under sidewalks type of thing] but in general we were very pleased with the results. We started our process in July and we were digging "washes" and trenching for drip irrigation in September. Hope this is helpful." Linda Guy Master Gardener EPatti@aol.com wrote: > How do I turn a green lawn into desert > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 15:39:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:39:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wild Celery or Parsley References: <200103161820.f2GIKJ026591@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCBFB4.8E431984@qwest.net> I have not personally battled this plant, so I am supplying you information from our library of publications. According to our fact sheet MC 51, this is a perennial weed in bermuda lawns that is most vigorous in the cooler months, least active in summer, which is why you notice it now. [You can order this pub at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds ] The publication recommends using an organic arsenical [DSMA, MSMA, AMA] at the heaviest rate given on the label when the week is present and daytime temps are at lease 75 degrees. Several applications will be needed if the weed is well established. The arsenical will damage a winter lawn, in all probability. Linda Guy Master Gardener MADASMITH@AOL.COM wrote: > HELP ME PLEASE!! I have tiff grass and this year I have alot of weeds.Last year I pulled them out but I seem to have too many this year. They are what I call "carrot grass". I don't know if that is the right name or not. They are dark green with curly leaves like a carrot top or curly parsley. What would be a safe weed killer that won't hurt my tiff or do I need to just pull them out?Thank you > Debbie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 15:48:53 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:48:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Narcissus/Paperwhites References: <200102280612.XAA02287@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCC1E5.2ECF6599@qwest.net> Blooming is supported by the phosphate component of fertilizers. Additionally, too high a nitrogen component will also discourage bloom while encouraging vegetative growth. One of our old bulb publications recommended fertilizers with a 16-20-0 balance. The flowering time for narcissus is approximately Jan to May. You might try an application of fertilizer to see what might yet happen this year. Daffodils do not need to be removed from beds over the summer [unless they will be soaked and risk being rotted]. But you might consider separating the bulbs every 3-5 years or so in midsummer, after the leaves have browned. Next fall/winter apply some fertilizer as growth begins and repeat 2-3 times during the season to maintain good growth and promote bloom. Linda Guy Master Gardener bunyldy@worldnet.att.net wrote: > What do I do with narcissus(paperwhites)? > > Several yrs. ago, I had several & after they bloomed, I planted them in outdoor garden. Each yr. they have beautiful long green leaves but no flowers. > This yr. I also have some in pots. > Thank you for responding. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 15:52:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 08:52:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] "The Birds"! [Volume II] References: <200103091959.f29JxwV07725@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCC2B1.75503C9B@qwest.net> I don't generally have problems with these smaller birds, but I do notice that many different species will congregate on my budding and blooming native plants starting in March in areas where there are aphids munching on the succulent buds. They've come to munch on the those little 'suckers'. Could this be the reason that your feathery friends are hanging out on your patio? Linda Guy Master Gardener dkrob6@earthlink.net wrote: > We have a small patio out back and each year I plant a few colorful flowers in terra cotta pots....Last year, it was petunias, and the sparrows started eating all the blooms til there was nothing left..So this year, I tried primroses, and lo and behold, for 2 months the blooms were safe, now, all of a sudden, the little monsters started eating the primrose blooms too. What the heck is going - is there an Alfred Hitchcock revival that I'm unaware of????? What CAN I plant that they won't consider fodder..or should we just buy a big mean cat? ( Not really an option - my husband HATES cats MORE than birds!! AH me!) > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:00:04 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:00:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Protecting Peaches References: <200103141527.f2EFRu015530@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCC484.1C914A83@qwest.net> I've not personally addressed this issue, but I will share some of the devices I have seen in various garden/farm supply catalogs. Netting, of course, needs to be draped as the fruit begins to ripen. Why not put netting over the portion of the tree you can reach. At least a portion will be protected for your family's consumption. There are glittery bird scare tapes that flutter in the breeze and whose sound and sight are said to deter birds. There are 'scare eye' balloons to hang but these are not thought to be effective on small groups of songbirds' better for starlings, woodpeckers, etc. There are inflatable snakes, 'scarecrow' owls and finally bird of prey kites to suspend from a pole. Hope this helps you somewhat. Linda Guy Master Gardener rsokol3@juno.com wrote: > How do I keep the birds from eating all the peaches off my peach tree? The tree is too large to use a net. Does each peach have to be individually protected or wrapped in something? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:06:27 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:06:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yellowing Tomatoes References: <200103160632.f2G6WP015137@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCC602.BDE6C3F9@qwest.net> Here is a link to better help you identify your problems. In general, these can be located under the index function on our home page Verticillium wilt http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/diseases/vertcllm.htm If this is what you have, you will unfortunately need to destroy the plants. You are also welcome to bring samples to the Cooperative Extension office for diagnosis [you will be called once the weekly committee has met and reviewed your problem] or to the satellite office nearest you. Addresses are on the page where you posted your question. Linda Guy Master Gardener LAEApple@aol.com wrote: > We just planted Early Girl tomato plants in our garden about 2 weeks ago and they are slowly yellowing from the bottom up. Could they have verticillium and/or fusarium wilt? Also, how often should we be watering them this time of year, and when it gets really hot, how often should we water them? > Thank you!! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:11:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:11:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Turf for Shade References: <34.12a6a023.27eccb5b@aol.com> Message-ID: <3ABCC73E.29CD220@qwest.net> I do not have experience with these but will post your question back to the AG server to see if someone else does. Linda JFLEISHANS@aol.com wrote: > Thanks for the information. > > I am now looking at Vinca minor and/or Festuca ovina glauca as a ground cover > under the trees and shaded area. Any experience with these? > > Thanks again. > > JOHN From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:17:14 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:17:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] EXOTIC GRASS ALERT References: <4.3.1.2.20010323131713.00b15290@ag.arizona.edu> <3ABBBD19.A9F2C0DE@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3ABCC88A.76AD093A@qwest.net> In the July 1998 issue of the Horticultural Communicator, there was a section on native grasses by Kent Newland whom I thought is/was actively involved in the Native Plant society. Starts on p. 8. This was the only thing that came to my mind, except for some of the seed catalogs; most of the ones I know of, unfortunately, are out of New Mexico, not AZ. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > How does one go about trying to ID exotic grasses? I have widespread > patches of new grasses coming up throughout my 5 acres, which we're sure > is recovering graze land adjacent to current ongoing grazing land--and > who knows what the government has planted back in the "wilds" to sustain > the herds. > > The grass I'm getting is a small bunch grass, growing in 4-6" dia. > prostrate circles. They sprung up with the winter rains and are now > going to seed with a distinctive red seedhead extending out beyond the > bunch. > > Is there an easy way to tell a "good" native grass from a "bad" invasive > type? I just figured I'd watch it, but I certainly don't want it to > choke out my lovely blankets of poppies and desert globemallows. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:28:02 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:28:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed henbit References: <20010319192124.27550.qmail@web1903.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3ABCCB12.EA14FE5@qwest.net> I have a bit of henbit here and there. It has been a relatively easily pulled weed that hasn't been much trouble [talk to me about spurge in the warm weather however! I think that's what I grow best!!] Anyway, several things come to mind. Yes, the seeds could have been in your compost and if the pile did not get hot enough the seeds could easily germinate in the fall [this is a cool season annual, generally]. If this is the first year of your garden, there could have been seeds set after flowering last spring and these are then dormant in the soil until fall. Your tilling to plant your garden would also have tilled in the weed's seeds. It is important for you to pick these before they flower and set seed again in the next month or so, so you have less to address next year. If you are making your own compost and don't think the pile gets hot enough, I would place all weed material, particularly that in bloom in the trash, not the compost. I live in Arcadia and use Jim Baker's place often. Where's your school yard? Linda Guy Master Gardener linda levitt wrote: > This weed was identified for me by Bakers. The whole > garden I planted at my son's school is full of it. We > planted in OCT after the first rains in the fall and > it invaded. We weed daily. BUT, where did it come > from? I never want to do this again. I used compost > from THE FARM and the garden and area surrounding it > is and was weed free? Any ideas? > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ej10817@goodnet.com Sat Mar 24 17:26:37 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:26:37 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010324092329.029d3e30@127.0.0.1> Hi all, Re the bird problem, the suggestion of netting for smaller trees is good...cheaper than that you buy at the garden store is the nylon net sold in fabric store for formals. I think the smaller holes make it more difficult for birds to ruin multiple fruits. Also I read the suggestion somewhere on the net than red balls hung in trees discourage birds when they find the balls are not edible. Don't know if this works but maybe worth a try. Sure are some innovative people around. Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat Mar 24 16:29:04 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:29:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Protecting Tomatoes References: <200103200002.f2K02hW20624@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3ABCCB4F.D33CD766@qwest.net> Try some netting, or even better floating row cover. The latter will keep hornworms away from tomatoes and provide some shade as the months heat up. Linda Guy Master Gardener kenandbarb1@msn.com wrote: > How can I keep the birds from eating my tomatoes as soon as they turn pink? I would like to have them ripen on the vine. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From ej10817@goodnet.com Sat Mar 24 17:26:37 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:26:37 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010324092329.029d3e30@127.0.0.1> Hi all, Re the bird problem, the suggestion of netting for smaller trees is good...cheaper than that you buy at the garden store is the nylon net sold in fabric store for formals. I think the smaller holes make it more difficult for birds to ruin multiple fruits. Also I read the suggestion somewhere on the net than red balls hung in trees discourage birds when they find the balls are not edible. Don't know if this works but maybe worth a try. Sure are some innovative people around. Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From sommers13@cs.com Sat Mar 24 16:39:46 2001 From: sommers13@cs.com (sommers13@cs.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 09:39:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103241639.f2OGdkW01665@Ag.Arizona.Edu> New to Arizona - Need information on proper setting of drip system for plants,schubs,trees & flowers. How often to water, how long, often, time of day and rate. Also do you change these setting as the weather gets warmer. Thanks From Landlightdesign@aol.com Sat Mar 24 18:36:34 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:36:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #70 - 21 msgs, Taro Message-ID: <63.139e3806.27ee4332@aol.com> --part1_63.139e3806.27ee4332_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I like to reuse nursery containers. Line the container with newspaper then fill with native soil and rock 2" from the top, set tuber on top of native soil then fill container with clean sand. Put cement blocks on pond bottom and container on top of blocks so top is 3" below water line. Colocasia esculenta, elephant ear, Taro can be invasive in the pond and containers help keep it in check. Your Garden Pond by tetra press ISBN 3-89356-136-6 Note* Ponds in Arizona do best without a marsh zone. The shallow water gets to hot. Paul --part1_63.139e3806.27ee4332_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I like to reuse nursery containers. Line the container with newspaper then
fill with native soil and rock 2" from the top, set tuber on top of native
soil then fill container with clean sand. Put cement blocks on pond bottom
and container on top of blocks so top is 3" below water line. Colocasia
esculenta, elephant ear, Taro can be invasive in the pond and containers help
keep it in check.
Your Garden Pond by tetra press ISBN 3-89356-136-6
Note* Ponds in Arizona do best without a marsh zone. The shallow water gets
to hot.

Paul --part1_63.139e3806.27ee4332_boundary-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 24 20:29:30 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:29:30 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Underground Drip System for Turf Message-ID: <85.8a409ae.27ee5daa@aol.com> Pamela, You are entirely correct about the drip systems that are designed to be used above ground, they should not be used underground. The system I spoke about is designed to be used either under or above ground and is manufactured by a major irrigation equipment supplier. Rod From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 24 20:29:32 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:29:32 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pines with needle drop Message-ID: <3a.12a9ae17.27ee5dac@aol.com> It is normal for pines to drop their needles, an excessive drop could be because of inadequate irrigation. When you deep water the water should penetrate in excess of three feet. I do not know of a way to stop the pines from blooming. I'm glad to hear that you stopped fertilizing your pines for they do not like nitrogen. However they will do well with an application of composted manure. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From umiller@azdps.com Sat Mar 24 20:38:12 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 13:38:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drip Systems In-Reply-To: <200103241639.f2OGdkW01665@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hi - One of the Master Gardeners will probably give you some information on drip systems. But you may also check out Home Depot and Summer Winds Nursery 1-866-garden-1. Summer Winds Nursery used to be owned by someone else and called Tip Top Nursery until a month or so ago. They used to give classes and demos on various desert subjects, including drip system. I attended one of their drip classes two years ago and it was very helpful. Maybe the new owner is continuing to do that. I also saw a drip system class listed recently on the Home Depot class board at one of their stores. Maybe Lowe's Home Centers has classes, too. But I will answer one part of your question --- yes, yes, yes, you will have to change the drip system settings when the weather gets warmer (as in hotter). :-) Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of sommers13@cs.com Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 9:40 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page New to Arizona - Need information on proper setting of drip system for plants,schubs,trees & flowers. How often to water, how long, often, time of day and rate. Also do you change these setting as the weather gets warmer. Thanks _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat Mar 24 22:11:14 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 17:11:14 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation, How To Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Irrigation should answer most of your questions and is available at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Once you establish the amount of water that a tree or plant requires you adjust for the seasons by changing the interval between irrigations while maintaining the same amount of water. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . From monkeyl@uswest.net Sat Mar 24 22:40:28 2001 From: monkeyl@uswest.net (monkeyl@uswest.net) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:40:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103242240.f2OMeSW10416@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recieved a sunrise cactus as a gift. It was a beautiful flowerin plant and now the blossoms have finished. Please let me know how to care for the plant next. Do I plant it outside or keep it inside? Thanks so much Jane Lange From www.garycrapshooter@aol.com Sat Mar 24 22:41:38 2001 From: www.garycrapshooter@aol.com (www.garycrapshooter@aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 15:41:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103242241.f2OMfcW10532@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i would to know what has to be done to take care of the mesquite tree&if itdrops its leaves this time of year. as we are to this region From Krulich@aol.com Sun Mar 25 15:04:41 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 10:04:41 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Thrips on apricot tree Message-ID: <105.c81f87.27ef6309@aol.com> I am having a problem with thrips on my apricot tree. They're causing most of the leaves to curl and even some of the really new leaves at the tips of the new stems are dying, which cause them to stop growing. They are also on the apricots but I don't see any noticeable damage on them.... yet. I know that thrips damage on citrus trees is mostly cosmetic damage, but they seem to be affecting the growth of my apricot tree. I am assuming that the damage is caused by the thrips because I can see them everywhere. I don't see any aphids. Is there any way to control them? Also, I have always noticed little reddish bumps appear on the edges of the leaves near the stem. They are attached to the leaf. It's not a bug, but could it be some kind of egg, or is this just a normal part of the leaf? Thanks, Tom From June_Harris@email.msn.com Sun Mar 25 21:34:30 2001 From: June_Harris@email.msn.com (June_Harris) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:34:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] euphorbia trigona Message-ID: <001401c0b573$616d6680$f36ad3c6@9g9u8> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B538.B3FA5F60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can you help me find out more on how to care for and propogate my = euphorbia trigona? Any help or direction to help would be very much = appreciated.=20 June Harris=20 June_Harris@MSN.com ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B538.B3FA5F60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Can you help me find out more on how to = care for=20 and propogate my euphorbia trigona?  Any help or direction to help = would be=20 very much appreciated.
 
June Harris
June_Harris@MSN.com
 
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C0B538.B3FA5F60-- From reidb_g@yahoo.com Sun Mar 25 22:10:07 2001 From: reidb_g@yahoo.com (Reid Guzy) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 14:10:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Converting Turf Message-ID: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> I have to make a comment here. Shouldn't solarization work for killing off bermuda grass? --Reid Guzy __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From pamela@u.arizona.edu Sun Mar 25 22:31:47 2001 From: pamela@u.arizona.edu (Pamela Tremain Koch) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 15:31:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] water absorbant polymers References: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <009801c0b57b$6413d4c0$0f02000a@computer> Has anybody used water absorbant polymers as soil additives? They claim to cut down on water use as they absorb and hold water close to the plants roots. I am curious to know of people's personal experiences with these types of products--is there substance to the claim? From ketelboeter@earthlink.net Sun Mar 25 23:00:04 2001 From: ketelboeter@earthlink.net (ketelboeter@earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:00:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103252300.f2PN04W26396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> where can i buy a bonsai tree? i live on the N.W. side in peoria? From Beverlyfz@aol.com Sun Mar 25 23:11:01 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 18:11:01 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <7b.12195a36.27efd505@aol.com> --part1_7b.12195a36.27efd505_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The uglier I get the prettier my garden grows. God makes up for this you know. --part1_7b.12195a36.27efd505_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The uglier I get the prettier my garden grows.  God makes up for this you
know. --part1_7b.12195a36.27efd505_boundary-- From bgreene143@cs.com Sun Mar 25 23:13:15 2001 From: bgreene143@cs.com (bgreene143@cs.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 16:13:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103252313.f2PNDFW27619@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a really healthy Gardinia. Since I bot it last year, I have yet to see any blooms open. The buds are there, but they fall off before opening. What could the cause of this be? Please help! From JOSEPHDPERRY@HOTMAIL.COM Mon Mar 26 00:06:33 2001 From: JOSEPHDPERRY@HOTMAIL.COM (JOSEPHDPERRY@HOTMAIL.COM) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 17:06:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103260006.f2Q06XW02746@Ag.Arizona.Edu> MY WIFE AND I WANT TO GROW A WALKING GARDEN IN THE SIDE YARD OF OUR HOME (APX. 18'X 35'), AND I WANT SOME SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO DESIGN IT THX, JOE PERRY From kearnz50@hotmail.com Mon Mar 26 03:05:28 2001 From: kearnz50@hotmail.com (kearnz50@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:05:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103260305.f2Q35SW26310@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, From kearnz50@hotmail.com Mon Mar 26 03:07:51 2001 From: kearnz50@hotmail.com (kearnz50@hotmail.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:07:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103260307.f2Q37pW26456@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, i have recently apllied for a job in horticulture (trainneship) and ws wondering if you could quickly give me a basic understandin and what horticulture is? I would b most greatful thankyou Adam kearney (australia) From azschu@uswest.net Mon Mar 26 03:28:01 2001 From: azschu@uswest.net (azschu@uswest.net) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 20:28:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103260328.f2Q3S1W28773@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our mesquite tree is losing all of its leaves. Is this normal? What care should they have ? Thank you in advance for your response. MAS From gizmoaz@home.com Mon Mar 26 04:11:45 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 21:11:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] water absorbant polymers References: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> <009801c0b57b$6413d4c0$0f02000a@computer> Message-ID: <3ABEC181.35EE5D5D@home.com> Hi Pam, I have used the water absorbant polymers crystals, and I am here to say they work! A couple of summers ago, I did an experiment. I have to big half barrels. I put polymer crystals in one, and not in the other, for the summer. The plants in the barrel with the polymer crystals got twice as big, were twice as healthy, and had way more blooms! They are excellent for container gardening in our hot, arid climates. I highly recommend them for containers. I am not so sure that there are any benefits when using them in regular flower beds. I observed no differences there. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > > Has anybody used water absorbant polymers as soil additives? They claim to > cut down on water use as they absorb and hold water close to the plants > roots. I am curious to know of people's personal experiences with these > types of products--is there substance to the claim? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 26 16:01:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:01:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water absorbant polymers References: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> <009801c0b57b$6413d4c0$0f02000a@computer> Message-ID: <3ABF67F6.43BDEF17@qwest.net> I too am very interested. If you receive any replies that do not copy the arid gardener server, kindly repost them for the benefit of us all! At last year's trade show, Tufflite promoted the use of pumice to conserve and hold water in the soil while also providing drainage and aeration. I already use pumice in my container soil mixes [learned that trick a few years back from the MG who is the container queen], and I feel like it is reasonable to expect benefit in the yard as well, particularly if you want to open up compact clay soil. When I created my herb beds about 6 years ago, [most herbs detest wet feet even in the heat of the summer] I added a truck load of 1/4" minus gravel in addition to a truckload of compost. This had been suggested by another MG who was an herb expert. Wish I'd known about the pumice then! Linda Guy Master Gardener Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > Has anybody used water absorbant polymers as soil additives? They claim to > cut down on water use as they absorb and hold water close to the plants > roots. I am curious to know of people's personal experiences with these > types of products--is there substance to the claim? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Mon Mar 26 16:06:34 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:06:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: Converting Turf References: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3ABF6909.C17E8391@qwest.net> So I've heard it said, but I was also told that this had to be done in the summer months and not in the winter; evidently it wouldn't get hot enough to do much more than jump start the bermuda in the cool season. Can't remember who told me this, but think it might have been fellow MG Olin Miller [is this true Olin?]. I hesitated to recommend it since I don't know how well it works. Also, the plastic would no doubt have to be there most of the summer and not everyone wants to cover their lawn for that period of time. Hope someone replies about this topic! Thanks for asking the question so we can all learn something new. Linda Guy Master Gardener Reid Guzy wrote: > I have to make a comment here. > Shouldn't solarization work for killing off bermuda > grass? > > --Reid Guzy > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rogemarx@qwest.net Mon Mar 26 16:09:53 2001 From: rogemarx@qwest.net (rogemarx@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:09:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103261609.f2QG9r424001@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often do I water tomatoes and strawberries? Also, how much water do they need when I do water them? From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon Mar 26 16:46:08 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 09:46:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water absorbant polymers References: <20010325221007.51046.qmail@web13401.mail.yahoo.com> <009801c0b57b$6413d4c0$0f02000a@computer> <3ABF67F6.43BDEF17@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3ABF7250.DB656770@AuroraNow.org> Alan and others who have used the polymers, I almost posted that question myself a few weeks ago and never got around to it. Do the polymers have to be added at the time of planting, or can they be worked into the soil of plants in established containers? One question that came to my mind was if the polymers made it difficult to tell if there is moisture in the soil. Does the soil still feel damp when you stick your fingers down a couple inches to check for dryness? Linda, thanks for the pumice tip! -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From engstromw@aol.com Mon Mar 26 17:04:31 2001 From: engstromw@aol.com (engstromw@aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:04:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103261704.f2QH4V410680@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there any way to permanently kill bermuda grass? From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon Mar 26 17:28:58 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 10:28:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Water absorbant polymers References: <3ABF67F6.43BDEF17@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3ABF7C5A.4431FD51@email.sps.mot.com> I sent a reply to this question last night, but I have not seen in post to the group. I use polymer crystals in all my containers. I did an experiment a few summers ago, where I put polymer crystals in one big oak barrel, and didn't put them in the other. I put the same amount of time released fertilizer in both barrels, and the same kind of flowers. Both barrels were next to each other. The barrel with the polymer crystals far exceeded the barrel without. The plants were bigger, lusher, greener, had more blooms. I was absolutely shocked by the difference. I've been using them ever since. I have found that they do need replaced about every 3 years in the containers. Whatever you do, follow the instructions for amounts to the T. More is not necessarily better in this case. I found when I put more than the instructions call for, that the pots become compacted and the plants rot from too much water hanging around. I have used them in garden beds as well, but saw no detectable differences there. Thus, I only use them in my containers. An excellent and cheaper source for the Crystals is a non-profit organization at the following website: http://www.watersorb.com/ Regards, ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Linda Guy wrote: > I too am very interested. If you receive any replies that do not copy the arid > gardener server, kindly repost them for the benefit of us all! > > At last year's trade show, Tufflite promoted the use of pumice to conserve and > hold water in the soil while also providing drainage and aeration. I already > use pumice in my container soil mixes [learned that trick a few years back from > the MG who is the container queen], and I feel like it is reasonable to expect > benefit in the yard as well, particularly if you want to open up compact clay > soil. When I created my herb beds about 6 years ago, [most herbs detest wet > feet even in the heat of the summer] I added a truck load of 1/4" minus gravel > in addition to a truckload of compost. This had been suggested by another MG > who was an herb expert. Wish I'd known about the pumice then! > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener > > Pamela Tremain Koch wrote: > > > Has anybody used water absorbant polymers as soil additives? They claim to > > cut down on water use as they absorb and hold water close to the plants > > roots. I am curious to know of people's personal experiences with these > > types of products--is there substance to the claim? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From epallone@ci.glendale.az.us Mon Mar 26 20:02:04 2001 From: epallone@ci.glendale.az.us (epallone@ci.glendale.az.us) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 13:02:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103262002.f2QK23424368@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I work for the City of Glendale. If the city wanted to provide greenwaste (without grass) pickup service what months or weeks of the year would be sufficient to do this? Also, if grass is included in this what additional impact would this have? From dkrob6@earthlink.net Mon Mar 26 22:37:58 2001 From: dkrob6@earthlink.net (dkrob6@earthlink.net) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 15:37:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103262237.f2QMbw401167@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Would you please tell us the proper time for pruning oleanders, etc. and just how much should or should not be trimmed from the plant. Also, what is the consequence of overpruning...say, for example, reducing an 8 ft. bush to bare stem at only 1 foot in height? Does this EVER need to be done and -if so - for what reason(s) Your advice is very much appreciated...thanking you in advance...Jeannie From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 27 01:13:39 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 18:13:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscape Designing Message-ID: <3ABFE943.C9C2F64C@qwest.net> I'm here to confess that I am a beginner and perhaps not as well schooled in the elements of design as I am in the plant pallette for this region. However, the time has come [finally, according to my family!] for me to stop redoing my neighbors' or clients' yards for free and, yes, I'm going to start charging for plans, starting with a request I received today. Can any of you who are already in the business give me some advice and/or help me come to grips with pricing? I want to start with a reasonable charge that represents a fair exchange; not too steep since I'm starting out [my family says the only thing new about this is the payment piece!] but enough so that I'm not giving it away. I intend to draw up the yards in question and provide a site plan with materials list. [If you are using software for the site plans, I'd like to know what you use, too.] This is a small property in the Biltmore, beds around the pool perimeter, some container plantings, small area [10 x 30] off another private patio. Perhaps I'm being hopelessly naive to ask for advice, but what do I have to lose??? All I risk is an empty email inbox [fat chance with this server!]. I'm sure I'd get some of this in the DBG landscape certification I start in fall, but since I'd like to try my hand before that time, any advice is greatly appreciated. Your confidentiality will be respected, and there is no need to copy your reply to either of the servers. Thanks! Linda Guy, fellow MG [Massage Therapist, but perhaps not for much longer!] From MTCactiPi@aol.com Tue Mar 27 02:21:13 2001 From: MTCactiPi@aol.com (MTCactiPi@aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:21:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103270221.f2R2LD416273@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How often is it necesssary to "flush" out your drip irrigation system. The system has been in the gound for close to two years. Also, how is it done? From umiller@azdps.com Tue Mar 27 02:26:39 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 19:26:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Blooms In-Reply-To: <200103252313.f2PNDFW27619@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Gardenias can be a problem. If you go to this site http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in gardenia, you'll see previous discussions about this plants and probably find out more than you ever wanted to know about these lush plants. I have two of these plants myself and they require a lot of pampering. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of bgreene143@cs.com Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 4:13 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have a really healthy Gardinia. Since I bot it last year, I have yet to see any blooms open. The buds are there, but they fall off before opening. What could the cause of this be? Please help! _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue Mar 27 05:14:47 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:14:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gardenia Blooms References: Message-ID: <3AC021C6.79D600D1@qwest.net> In addition to Ursula's response, I located the following information put out by the Michigan State University. It contains information on what causes bud drop. fyi. http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/mod03/01700423.html Sue Bass Ursula Miller wrote: > Gardenias can be a problem. If you go to this site > http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/ and type in gardenia, you'll > see previous discussions about this plants and probably find out more than > you ever wanted to know about these lush plants. I have two of these plants > myself and they require a lot of pampering. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of > bgreene143@cs.com > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2001 4:13 PM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I have a really healthy Gardinia. Since I bot it last year, I have yet to > see any blooms open. The buds are there, but they fall off before opening. > What could the cause of this be? Please help! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Landlightdesign@aol.com Tue Mar 27 15:13:43 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:13:43 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #74 - 21 msgs, water absorbing crystals Message-ID: <3a.12c3cbd5.27f20827@aol.com> --part1_3a.12c3cbd5.27f20827_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have used a product called Terawet in container planting. Watering frequency was reduced. No apparent side effects other then you can see it in soil. Would like to know more about it. How long does it take to degrade? Paul --part1_3a.12c3cbd5.27f20827_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have used a product called Terawet in container planting.
Watering frequency was reduced.
No apparent side effects other then you can see it in soil.
Would like to know more about it. How long does it take to degrade?

Paul --part1_3a.12c3cbd5.27f20827_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 27 15:38:37 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 08:38:37 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Greenwaste Pickup References: <200103262002.f2QK23424368@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC0B3FD.46E5F468@qwest.net> I live in an area of Phoenix with alleys and we have a pickup of any large waste material [under 4' I think] on a quarterly basis. Unfortunately, not everyone has access to an alley and some families dispose of mounds of material and furnishings on their front curb. We have a targeted two-week window within which the crews are to arrive; and we are not to leave our refuse out before then. Unfortunately, not everyone adheres to the schedule and our beautiful old neighborhood has these trash piles for weeks, sometimes. I like the service very much, but I would lbe willing to forego it if it meant these eyesores disappeared. As to a horticulturally based determination of frequency, I'm not osure how you would determine this based on the variety of plant materials in the valley. Not everyone prunes when it is most beneficial for plants/trees, either. Linda Guy Master Gardener epallone@ci.glendale.az.us wrote: > I work for the City of Glendale. If the city wanted to provide greenwaste (without grass) pickup service what months or weeks of the year would be sufficient to do this? Also, if grass is included in this what additional impact would this have? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 27 15:41:28 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 08:41:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Converting Turf References: <200103261704.f2QH4V410680@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC0B4A8.3EB9E732@qwest.net> Here is an answer I've sent to several people in the last few days. Hope it helps you. Most would recommend using any product with glyphosate [eg > Round-up] which is a systemic and is inert in the soil. Read the > directions for application. Generally, you should get your lawn growing > vigorously and apply the product. Wait two-three weeks and begin to > water lawn again; you will then reapply the systemic in those areas > which respond to your ministrations. Two, sometimes three applications > are necessary. You must be careful not to apply this to any other plant > material that you want to maintain, because this is not a selective > herbicide. > > I make every attempt to be as organic as possible, but this is one > process where I will use a chemical. If your yard is small enough, you > could dig out the top 8" of turf and soil and truck in some other soil. > But use a good, clean source for the new soil. A neighbor converted his > yard with this method and the fill was loaded with nut sedge, which is > more difficult even than bermuda to be rid of. > > When we converted our front yard, we used a huge rototiller after the > lawn was killed and then raked as much of the stolons and root systems > out that we could. We have one or two small corners that we must still > spot treat from time to time [areas from adjacent lawns and bermuda > hiding under sidewalks type of thing] but in general we were very > pleased with the results. We started our process in July and we were > digging "washes" and trenching for drip irrigation in September. > > Hope this is helpful. > > Linda Guy > Master Gardener engstromw@aol.com wrote: > Is there any way to permanently kill bermuda grass? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue Mar 27 15:44:08 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 08:44:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Walking Garden References: <200103260006.f2Q06XW02746@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC0B548.7EA0A448@qwest.net> Sounds fascinating but what is it? Who does the walking....you or the garden?!! Seriously, is this some sort of track for you to exercise upon? Linda Guy Master Gardener JOSEPHDPERRY@HOTMAIL.COM wrote: > MY WIFE AND I WANT TO GROW A WALKING GARDEN IN THE SIDE YARD OF OUR HOME (APX. 18'X 35'), AND I WANT SOME SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO DESIGN IT > > THX, JOE PERRY > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Landlightdesign@aol.com Tue Mar 27 15:50:55 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:50:55 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #74 - 21 msgs,flushing irrigation lines Message-ID: <38.13f1b4df.27f210df@aol.com> --part1_38.13f1b4df.27f210df_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After installation, drip lines should be flushed annually and anytime the line has been cut or if any additions are made. You need to find the end caps. go back to your as-built to help find the ends. If no irrigation plan your out of luck.you will have to look for the end caps. look for small 5" round valve box if no valve box used for end caps, trace the line to ends. Open the end caps and turn valve on, flush for 2 or 3 minuets. I like to catch the water from flush just to see the dirt if any, clean or replace filters before flushing. Paul --part1_38.13f1b4df.27f210df_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit After installation, drip lines should be flushed annually and anytime the
line has been cut or if any additions are made. You need to find the end
caps. go back to your as-built to help find the ends. If no irrigation plan
your out of luck.you will have to look for the end caps. look for small 5"
round valve box if no valve box used for end caps, trace the line to ends.
Open the end caps and turn valve on, flush for 2 or 3 minuets.
I like to catch the water from flush just to see the dirt if any, clean or
replace filters before flushing.    

Paul --part1_38.13f1b4df.27f210df_boundary-- From lstringer@sprynet.com Tue Mar 27 17:57:12 2001 From: lstringer@sprynet.com (lstringer@sprynet.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:57:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103271757.f2RHvC427921@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, are there any local nurseries or other places to purchase earthworms, and beneficial insects (ladybugs, praying mantis etc) as I think it would be best what is native to this area, for m vegetable garden. I am new to the area and starting an organic veg garden. Thank-you, & thanks for the site- I have been looking around on it for the last hour! From lstringer@sprynet.com Tue Mar 27 17:58:06 2001 From: lstringer@sprynet.com (lstringer@sprynet.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 10:58:06 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103271758.f2RHw6428131@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello, are there any local nurseries or other places to purchase earthworms, and beneficial insects (ladybugs, praying mantis etc) as I think it would be best to use what is native to this area, for my vegetable garden. I am new to the area and starting an organic veg garden. Thank-you, & thanks for the site- I have been looking around on it for the last hour! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 27 21:25:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:25:04 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ber muda Grass, killing permanently Message-ID: Yes bermuda grass can be killed permanently but you must follow the instructions exactly. The herbicide glyphosate ( Roundup ) will do the job provided the grass is actively growing, has been cut recently and the temperatures are warm, from now through October if you live in the low desert of Arizona. After about two weeks a second application may be necessary. The Roundup has worked more effectively for me by adding one tablespoon per gallon of mix of amonium sulfate Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 27 21:25:07 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:25:07 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Gardenia, no blooms Message-ID: Stress will cause the Gardenia to drop its buds. Stress can be caused by either over or underwatering, sudden change in temperature or humidity. During the growing season the gardenia should be fertilized monthly with a fertilizer for acid loving plants. Mulching the plant will help keep the roots cool, conserve moisture and help guard against temperature changes. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 27 21:25:06 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:25:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Mesquite loosing leaves Message-ID: You can stop worrying, the Mesquite is cold deciduous and it is normal for them to drop their leaves this time of year. Check out this website on tree care: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist _______________________________________________ From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 27 21:25:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:25:10 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Prunning Oleanders Message-ID: Jeannie, Good prunning practice dictates that not more than 1/3 of a plant should be pruned off at one time, however oleanders are mighty tough, I have cut them to the ground and had them come back. So the choice is yours. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener . From merandjer@webtv.net Tue Mar 27 22:28:47 2001 From: merandjer@webtv.net (merandjer@webtv.net) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 15:28:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103272228.f2RMSl400849@Ag.Arizona.Edu> (1)A great many leaves and fronds are falling off of our mesquite trees...is that normal? (2)Our agaves were planted 4 years ago and there now are 3 to 5 plants where there was one. Is it alright to dig up the offspring and transplant? Should we leave the Mother or the strongest baby? (3) Our 2 clusters of what we were told is "bear grass" have gotten very tacky.Is it alright to cut them back? If so, to what height? Thank you From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue Mar 27 23:16:28 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:16:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103272228.f2RMSl400849@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AC11F4C.F22AB324@AuroraNow.org> > (1)A great many leaves and fronds are falling off of our mesquite trees...is that normal? Yes, leaf drop on mesquites this time of year is normal. > (2)Our agaves were > planted 4 years ago and there now are 3 to 5 plants where there was one. Is it alright to dig up the offspring > and transplant? Should we leave the Mother or the strongest baby? Yes, you can dig up the pups and transplant them. I've transplanted both mature and tiny, 2-leaf pups with equal success. (I just cut about 1/2 the length of the connecting roots). Transplant now as succulents need a long hot season to establish roots, and give some supplemental waterings for the first year until they're well re-established. Maybe one of the MGs knows about your beargrass. I've seen it pruned back in public landscaped areas but not sure how much or when is best. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue Mar 27 22:52:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:52:34 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite leaves falling, Transplanting Agaves Message-ID: <8f.8d05283.27f273b2@aol.com> 1. It is normal for Mesquites to lose their leaves this time of year, if you look at your neighbor's mesquites you will see the same thing. 2. Yes you can transplant all the baby agaves if you like. 3. The bear grass can be cut back to a few inches high. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Tue Mar 27 23:57:23 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:57:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Droopy Oleander Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0B6DE.FE4FA000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit The strangest thing is happening to one of my happy, healthy oleanders. Little by little, each branch is drooping toward the ground so that the branch is almost parallel with the soil. This shouldn't be a watering problem since I haven't changed anything in its watering schedule from last year and the plant looks healthy - budding flowers, green, no wilt, etc. Just the one-by-one dropping branches. This has been happening over a period of about a week and now a total of 7 are drooping. (This is a 4' mini-oleander about 1-1/2 years old.) I haven't seen this happen to any of my other oleanders and can't find any reference to this condition in my books. Does anybody know what could be causing this? Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0B6DE.FE4FA000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
The strangest thing = is=20 happening to one of my happy, healthy oleanders.  Little by little, = each=20 branch is drooping toward the ground so that the branch is almost = parallel with=20 the soil.  This shouldn't be a watering problem since I haven't = changed=20 anything in its watering schedule from last year and the plant looks = healthy -=20 budding flowers, green, no wilt, etc.  Just the one-by-one dropping = branches.  This has been happening over a period of about a week = and now a=20 total of 7 are drooping.  (This is a 4' mini-oleander about = 1-1/2=20 years old.) 
 
I haven't seen this = happen to=20 any of my other oleanders and can't find any reference to this condition = in my=20 books. 
 
Does anybody know = what could be=20 causing this?
 
Ursula Miller
 
------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C0B6DE.FE4FA000-- From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Wed Mar 28 12:52:09 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:52:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation class dates Message-ID: <20010328125209.79225.qmail@web13002.mail.yahoo.com> The next sceduled class I have on irrigation is; Thursday, June 21st. Its a 3 hour class at the Desert Botanical Garden.Its a limited class size and I have no idea what the charge is.A call to the gardenshould get the information you will need.Call Pat Smith at the garden, her number is (480)-481-8122, she is the class coordinator. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/?.refer=text From Wayne_Hanne@msn.com Wed Mar 28 15:16:08 2001 From: Wayne_Hanne@msn.com (Wayne_Hanne@msn.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:16:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103281516.f2SFG8418362@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Question 1: Last year we lost serveral pyracanthas. They are planted on an east wall (stucco) and a next to a west fall (rod iron fence). Some of the new plants but not all have yellow leaves. What is the cause? How much water do these plants need? Question 2 We have queen palms and they looked badly after the winter. We fertilized and used spikes. How much water do these trees need? How often do they need to be deep watered. Question 3 How should the desert sages be pruned? They are approximately 4 foot in heights and appear woody at the bottom. Quest;ion 4 Our citrus had yellow leaves and a fungus. The gardner told us that this is the cause of underwatering. Can this be true? They grapefruit, and orange trees are less than 10 feet in height. How much water do they need? When is the best time to prune these trees? From Wayne_Hanne@msn.com Wed Mar 28 15:20:03 2001 From: Wayne_Hanne@msn.com (Wayne_Hanne@msn.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:20:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103281520.f2SFK3419313@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Question 1: Last year we lost serveral pyracanthas. They are planted on an east wall (stucco) and a next to a west fall (rod iron fence). Some of the new plants but not all have yellow leaves. What is the cause? How much water do these plants need? Question 2 We have queen palms and they looked badly after the winter. We fertilized and used spikes. How much water do these trees need? How often do they need to be deep watered. Question 3 How should the desert sages be pruned? They are approximately 4 foot in heights and appear woody at the bottom. Quest;ion 4 Our citrus had yellow leaves and a fungus. The gardner told us that this is the cause of underwatering. Can this be true? They grapefruit, and orange trees are less than 10 feet in height. How much water do they need? When is the best time to prune these trees? Sincerely Wayne Mangold 11115 Watford CT Sun Lakes, Az 85248 PS the previous message had another name attached to it. Don't know how that occured. I think it had a name of Lucy. From ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed Mar 28 16:56:07 2001 From: ckjones@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Chris Jones) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:56:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed henbit In-Reply-To: <3ABCCB12.EA14FE5@qwest.net> Message-ID: <001301c0b7a7$fc687720$4401a8c0@cjones> Linda, I too experience henbit in my yard - after two winters of drought, I really had no idea there could be so much. It really proliferated this winter. I suspect that Linda's latter explanation, the seeds were already in the soil and you just tilled it up and the conditions this winter set it off. Remember the adage, "one year's weed is seven years seed (and likely twice that many years)" With the many methods weeds have to disperse and propagate, the idea of "weed-free" is very much wishful thinking. Like Linda, I don't consider it much trouble either - it pulls easily, it doesn't seem to be particularly aggressive or nutrient depleting, it doesn't get too big/shady, it doesn't have nasty thorns or other particularly noxious attributes, and it has pretty purple flowers. Once the heat comes on, it will be gone fairly quickly and then wait patiently for the next wonderful wet and cool winter (you know how often those happen). I support Linda's control methods considered as a weed. As most weedseeds can remain viable in soil for many years, mulching 4"-6" deep between garden plants is also a good way to inhibit germination. I look at hens-bit with a discerning eye and appreciate it as a cool season wildflower, and save my wrath for foxtail b