From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 1 00:00:51 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:00:51 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > If it is so toxic, I am > amazed > why the nursery did not warn me about it. Because nurseries and landscapers assume you're interested in a species because of it's visual appeal, not it's culinary uses. Oleanders are also very poisonous. The advantage: rabbits, deer, etc. leave them alone. If you have young children, you may want to move it (or put a 3-4' fence around it), but my dogs never bother my oleander. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 1 01:14:05 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:14:05 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Publication on citrus irrigation You can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Sue Bass Master Gardener Marvbevy@aol.com wrote: > How much water does citrus trees need > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:04 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:04 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine If you are referring to Carolina Jessamine, yes all parts of the plant are poisonous if ingested. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:06 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:06 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, watering The following website has info on watering citrus: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:05 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:05 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cochineal Scale Joe, The white substance you are seeing on your cactus is caused by an insect, Cochineal Scale which sucks the juice from the cacti. The white substance you see is exuded by the insect as protection from predators. The good news is that a strong spray of water will wash the insect off the cacti. The Indians used this insect to make red dye. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 1 01:15:03 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:03 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Palo Brea Patty, The Palo Brea grows at a moderate rate, and as a desert adapted tree can get by on very little water once it is established. If you want fast growth then give it more water, deep water that is. The only fertilizer that should be used the first year in the ground would be to put fertilizer spikes beneath the root ball covered with two to three inches of dirt. Summertime deep watering once a week should give you optimum growth. Once the tree aproaches the height you desire ( its maximum is 25 feet) you could increase the irrigation interval to three to four weeks in summer and double or triple that in the winter. Check out this website on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 1 01:45:59 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:45:59 -0700 From: Sue Bass sjbass@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting citrus You can view a publication on Budding (Grafting) Citrus at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf The publication states that you can bud any citrus variety onto any other citrus variety. Sue Bass Master Gardener croft8@juno.com wrote: > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Mexvella@aol.com Thu Mar 1 05:37:25 2001 Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:37:25 -0700 (MST) From: Mexvella@aol.com Mexvella@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. From Hillzones@aol.com Thu Mar 1 16:06:11 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 09:06:11 -0700 (MST) From: Hillzones@aol.com Hillzones@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Does anyone know why our citrus trees are losing all their leaves and some of the new buds. We are very worried about them! An answer will be greatly appreciated, thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 1 16:43:57 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 09:43:57 -0700 From: Sherryl Stalinski s2@AuroraNow.org Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't receive it. Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in the Western Garden Book. Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others say don't. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From rcdemark@aol.com Thu Mar 1 17:51:00 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:00 -0700 (MST) From: rcdemark@aol.com rcdemark@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page When is the proper time to feed and use Bordeaux fungicide on my Queen Palms? From ClaireASP@aol.com Thu Mar 1 17:51:20 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:20 -0700 (MST) From: ClaireASP@aol.com ClaireASP@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I just recently saw a 10" potted Texas Mountain Laurel at a local Home Depot. It was in bloom, and I thought that the flower was beautiful. I have only seen one of these growing around my area,(No. East Scottsdale), so I am wondering if there is a specific reason for this. Are there certain disadvantages for growing this tree; and is there a reason that I would not want to plant one? You have been very helpful in the past, and I will be anxiously waiting for your comments, once again. In the meantime, I will hold off buying one of these trees. Thanks again for all your help. Claire. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 19:32:39 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 19:32:39 -0000 From: Linda Drew drew_linda@hotmail.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] currants in Sierra Vista Jo Babbie, Thank you for your question regarding growing currants in Sierra Vista. Your email was forwarded to the Pima County Master Gardeners. If you have other questions, please feel welcome to send them to: arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu or you can call us at (520) 626-5161 >Can currant bushes grow successfully in Sierra Vista? Currants require cool, moist, partially-shaded locations they are heavy feeders -- rich compost, acid soil the first year, soil should not be allowed to dry out they grow in the cooler parts of the U.S. - do not grow well in South they are host to one stage of the white pine blister rust Given that information, I doubt currants would grow well in Sierra Vista. The Yuma Experiment Station has successfully grown heat-adapted varieties of blackberries, but I have not heard any success with currants. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From JeanSciFi@aol.com Thu Mar 1 23:25:53 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:25:53 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel Hi Claire, I have two Texas Mountain Laurel growing in my yard. So far they have been trouble free and do not need much in the way of supplemental water once established. I hear there is a beetle that chews on the leaves sometimes but it doesn't seem to be a major problem. If you buy one I suggest that you buy the largest you can find in a pot as they grow very slow. I have the standard Mountain Laurel as well as the mutated one called Silver Pecos. As the name implies its leaves are silvery instead of just bright green. After the bloom the plant will put on pods filled with a few red seeds. The seeds are poisonous but the seed coat are so hard that they pass thru a digestive system without ill affects. I still would be careful if you have small kids or puppies. Did you notice that the blooms smell like grape koolaide? I'm very fond of this plant. If you are anywhere near the Maricopa County Extension office they have some that are mature trees. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener From umiller@azdps.com Thu Mar 1 23:07:17 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:07:17 -0700 From: Ursula Miller umiller@azdps.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers On the buddleia origins: My book says the following: Most of the cultivated species originate in China, but the genus also occurs in Africa, Madagascar, southern Asia and South America and includes many tropical and subtropical species. My book also says that it's really buddleja - "The spelling buddleia is often seen for this genus (named after seventeeth century English botanist Adam Buddle) but buddleja is now ruled the correct form." Well, it may be RULED the correct form, but all my other references (books and nurseries) use buddleia. That's probably because we don't live in a monarchy. My book reference above is a huge book called 'BOTANICA - The illustrated A-Z of over 10,000 garden plants and how to cultivate them". It's published in the USA but an imprint of Random House Australia. Maybe the RULING comes from Queen Liz. Someone else will have to answer the daisy question. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:44 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't receive it. Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in the Western Garden Book. Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others say don't. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sdyoder@attglobal.net Fri Mar 2 00:34:53 2001 Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 17:34:53 -0700 From: sdyoder@attglobal.net sdyoder@attglobal.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #51 - 32 msgs Re: Slikmouth12 Message 12: What you have is not a fungus. DO NOT CUT THE PADS OFF. It is cochineal scale, a little orange creature is a fuzzy white covering. You may not ever get it all off of the plants, but all it needs is a strong stream of water (e.g., from a hose) to knock off the fuzz and thus the creature. It cannot live without being attached to the plant. If you have a bad infestation, you can use a little soap with the water, but make sure the soap does not have a citrus additive in it. If you hose down these plants a few times a year, you will control the scale. This creature was used by the Indians for the red dye for their yarn. They often reappear after rains, just like weeds!!! arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu wrote: > Send Arid_gardener mailing list submissions to > arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > arid_gardener-request@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > You can reach the person managing the list at > arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Arid_gardener digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (tomrinaz@earthlink.net) > 2. GrapeSeek Has Listed Your Site (grapeseek@grapeseek.com) > 3. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (jeanejack@inficad.com) > 4. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (casalzer1@cs.com) > 5. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (edgarmeya1@hotmail.com) > 6. Penstemon Seeds (MRRAUSCHER@aol.com) > 7. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (bunyldy@worldnet.att.net) > 8. Re: Penstemon Seeds (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) > 9. RE: Penstemon Seeds (Ursula Miller) > 10. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Marvbevt@aol.com) > 11. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Marvbevy@aol.com) > 12. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (slikmouth@aol.com) > 13. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (croft8@juno.com) > 14. Carolina Jamine (manoj.chandran@philips.com) > 15. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (GanoPat@msn.com) > 16. Re: Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Sherryl Stalinski) > 17. Re: Carolina Jamine (Sherryl Stalinski) > 18. tepary beans as a cover mulch? (Jonathan Kandell) > 19. Publication on citrus irrigation (Sue Bass) > 20. Re: Carolina Jamine (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 21. Re:Citrus, watering (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 22. Re:Cochineal Scale (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 23. Re: Palo Brea (RodMcQ6@aol.com) > 24. Grafting citrus (Sue Bass) > 25. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Mexvella@aol.com) > 26. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (Hillzones@aol.com) > 27. Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers (Sherryl Stalinski) > 28. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (rcdemark@aol.com) > 29. Question from Home-Hort WWW page (ClaireASP@aol.com) > 30. currants in Sierra Vista (Linda Drew) > 31. Re: Texas Mountain Laurel (JeanSciFi@aol.com) > 32. RE: Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers (Ursula Miller) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 12:57:50 -0700 (MST) > From: tomrinaz@earthlink.net > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > At ADOT. we design landscape irrigation systems which only apply up to 0.18" of water (read precipitation i.e. gals.spread under canopy area)per day to our desert trees e.g. mesquite, palo verde, sw. acacia, vitex, tex.ebony, etc. If a lawn is fully irrigated every day, meaning no slow down in water consumption due to drying soils or over-saturated soils or pests, or anything else, during the 61 days of July and August demands an average 0.40 inches per day,how many days may elapse between irrigations of our trees? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 15:53:48 -0600 > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: grapeseek@grapeseek.com > Subject: [Arid_gardener] GrapeSeek Has Listed Your Site > > Thank-you for adding your site to Grapeseek! > > (Either you added it or we liked it enough to add it ourselves.) > > Why is this important to you? > > Quite simply, Grapeseek.com is rapidly becoming the largest internet portal for > grape growers, winemakers and wine enthusiasts in the world and we can > send a considerable amount of traffic (and sales) to your site with a proper listing. > > We have the largest online email groups of grape growers in the world > and we're always expanding our features and services. We also > have a variety of advertising options if you'd like us to feature your site > for more exposure of your site to our audience. > > Please visit http://www.grapeseek.com to ensure your listing is correct. > What we spidered from your site is listed below: > (If you don't like what you see below, please change the meta tags of > your own site!......or ask us for more info about how to do it...we want to help you!) > ------------------------------------------------------------ > -- For Your Records, your listing is as follows: -- > ------------------------------------------------------------ > Site ID : 983224429 > Site Name : ag pruning grapes and bird of paradise > Site Addr : http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-January/002934.html > Category : Grape Growing:Pruning > Sub Category: > Description : [AG] Pruning Grapes and Bird of Paradise > Search Terms: Linda,A,Guy, > ----------------------------------------------------------- > Thank you, again for your GRAPE site! > > Michel White > President, > Grapeseek, Inc. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 16:34:18 -0700 (MST) > From: jeanejack@inficad.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > We did not plant rye grass this winter. However, we have some kind of darker green and faster growing grass coming up in patches all over. A nursery worker said it is crab grass but it doesn't look like other kinds we see occasionally. The weed killer he recommended isn't helping. Could it be something else and what can we do? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 17:45:32 -0700 (MST) > From: casalzer1@cs.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > We are moving to the northwest valley in late August from So. California, in particular near the beach. > > I have several varities of ferns such as birdsnest, rabbits foot, etc. and would like to know if they will survive the heat. > > I am looking to put in a drip system in an arbor to house these plants. > > Any suggestions would be gladly appreciated. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 18:02:42 -0700 (MST) > From: edgarmeya1@hotmail.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > When is the best time to prune a sweet accacia and shoestring? We live in Peoria, Az. Thank you, 2/27/01 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > From: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:09:03 EST > To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Ursula, > My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East > Valley Tribune. John Chapman forwarded your question to me. I have worked > with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the > Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to > respond to, hope that's OK with you. The response will be in this Saturday's > Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps! > Thanks! > Michelle > > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > Ursula, >
My name is Michelle Rauscher, I write the Xeriscape Column for the East >
Valley Tribune.  John Chapman forwarded your question to me.  I have worked >
with Penstemons for eight years as the Wildflower Horticulturist at the >
Desert Botanical Garden, and John thought this would be a good one for me to >
respond to, hope that's OK with you.  The response will be in this Saturday's >
Nesting section in the Xeriscape Column - hope it helps! >

Thanks! >
Michelle >

>

> > --part1_56.7d098ca.27cdefff_boundary-- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:12:46 -0700 (MST) > From: bunyldy@worldnet.att.net > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > What do I do with narcissus(paperwhites)? > > Several yrs. ago, I had several & after they bloomed, I planted them in outdoor garden. Each yr. they have beautiful long green leaves but no flowers. > This yr. I also have some in pots. > Thank you for responding. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:37:48 EST > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > To: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com, Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > Michelle, > > I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa > Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this > page also? > > Val > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: , , > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 05:47:01 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > OK. Here are the responses I received: > > 1. I KNOW they produce seeds because I have baby penstemons in my yard! I > turned to Ms. Judy Mielke's excellent book, Native Plants for SW Landscapes, > in order to answer your question. The tiny black seeds, which she describes > as looking like coarsely ground pepper [I checked my envelopes and yup, that > applies!] will appear if you leave the flower stalks on the plant after > blooming to allow the seed to ripen. You can tell by shaking the blooms on a > piece of paper. When they are ripe, cut the stalks to the basal leaves and > again shake it over a container or paper to collect. Or just sprinkle it > around on the ground. As you can tell by my last note to Sheryl, I don't do > well germinating seeds....I'd prefer to sow them in place and move the > little seedlings around the yard after they've reached a good size to do so. > > 2. one other tip for penstemon seeds, try soaking them in water for 24 > hours > before planting, they need to be scarified in this way because of their > hard seed coats! > > 3. Many penstemon seeds prefer to "age" an extra year. I don't know the > exact reason, but had trouble with P. eatoni but not P. parryi and that > wonderful Mary Irish told me to hold the seeds until the second year > before planting. It worked. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of > PERFLOWERS@aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 11:38 PM > To: MRRAUSCHER@aol.com; Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Penstemon Seeds > > Michelle, > > I live in the far west part of the Valley and don't subscribe to the Mesa > Valley Tribune. After it prints on Sat, could you put the answer on this > page also? > > Val > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:20:13 -0700 (MST) > From: Marvbevt@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:29:25 -0700 (MST) > From: Marvbevy@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > How much water does citrus trees need > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:31:10 -0700 (MST) > From: slikmouth@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I have a "desert" landcsape yard with prickly pear cactus that has a white, fungus like growth on many of the leaves. My query is how to eliminate this growth without harming the cacti? Evidently from the coloration, there is 2 different types of cacti & I am interested in organic or non-organic ways of removing the supposed fungal growth. Many thanks to anyone able to help. > > Joe Current > Chandler, Az., 85224 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:10:49 -0700 (MST) > From: croft8@juno.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 14 > From: manoj.chandran@philips.com > To: > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 12:42:59 -0600 > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > > I recently had Carolina Jasmine planted in my backyard. I selected this plant after going to the local nursery > (Treeland Nursery in Mesa) and talking to the people over there. MYy landscaper also recommended this plant. > The flowers are beautiful, but on surfing the net last night I came to know this plant is EXTREMELY toxic and > can even be fatal if the flower is consumed. Any one has experience with this plant? If it is so toxic, I am amazed > why the nursery did not warn me about it. > > Thanks. > > Manoj Chandran > > --__--__-- > > Message: 15 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 11:49:48 -0700 (MST) > From: GanoPat@msn.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > How quickly does a Palo Brea tree grow. Should they be fertilized, how often water are they to be watered? I want to plant two of them in my front yard, and they will be very small trees when I plant them. Thank you. Patty > > --__--__-- > > Message: 16 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:57:03 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: slikmouth@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I'm hardly an expert, but most opuntia sp. (prickly pear, cholla, etc) > are pretty indestructable. I'd just remove the infected pads. If the > area affected is too low on the plant, and you want to "save" it, I'd > take some of the healthy, unaffected pads and just replant them. (Remove > the pads, let them dry at least 3-5 days so they can callous up, then > stick them in the ground). From my understanding, after replanting the > pads (just stick them in the ground) wait a week or so and water > lightly. Water lightly until established. > > Long salad tongs or barbecue tongs come in really handy for prickly pear > picking (fruit and pads). > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 17 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:00:51 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: manoj.chandran@philips.com > CC: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > > > If it is so toxic, I am > > amazed > > why the nursery did not warn me about it. > > Because nurseries and landscapers assume you're interested in a species > because of it's visual appeal, not it's culinary uses. Oleanders are > also very poisonous. The advantage: rabbits, deer, etc. leave them > alone. If you have young children, you may want to move it (or put a > 3-4' fence around it), but my dogs never bother my oleander. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 18 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:59:20 -0700 > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > From: Jonathan Kandell > Subject: [Arid_gardener] tepary beans as a cover mulch? > > Has anyone tried using tepary bean plants (which sprawl all over the > ground) as a mulch, to conserve water for other crops like tomatoes etc...? > > jk > > --__--__-- > > Message: 19 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:14:05 -0700 > From: "Sue Bass" > To: Marvbevy@aol.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Publication on citrus irrigation > > You can view an excellent publication on irrigating citrus at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > Marvbevy@aol.com wrote: > > > How much water does citrus trees need > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 20 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:04 EST > Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Carolina Jamine > To: manoj.chandran@philips.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > If you are referring to Carolina Jessamine, yes all parts of the plant are > poisonous if ingested. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 21 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:06 EST > To: MarvBevy@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus, watering > > The following website has info on watering citrus: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151.pdf > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 22 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:05 EST > To: Slikmouth@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Cochineal Scale > > Joe, > The white substance you are seeing on your cactus is caused by an insect, > Cochineal Scale which sucks the juice from the cacti. The white substance you > see is exuded by the insect as protection from predators. The good news is > that a strong spray of water will wash the insect off the cacti. The Indians > used this insect to make red dye. > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 23 > From: RodMcQ6@aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:15:03 EST > To: GanoPat@msn.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Palo Brea > > Patty, > The Palo Brea grows at a moderate rate, and as a desert adapted tree can get > by on very little water once it is established. If you want fast growth then > give it more water, deep water that is. The only fertilizer that should be > used the first year in the ground would be to put fertilizer spikes beneath > the root ball covered with two to three inches of dirt. > Summertime deep watering once a week should give you optimum growth. Once > the tree aproaches the height you desire ( its maximum is 25 feet) you could > increase the irrigation interval to three to four weeks in summer and double > or triple that in the winter. > Check out this website on irrigation: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html > > Good luck. > Rod McKusick > Master Gardener and Arborist > > --__--__-- > > Message: 24 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 18:45:59 -0700 > From: "Sue Bass" > To: croft8@juno.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafting citrus > > You can view a publication on Budding (Grafting) Citrus at: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1146.pdf > The publication states that you can bud any citrus variety onto any other citrus > variety. > Sue Bass > Master Gardener > > croft8@juno.com wrote: > > > Can I graft a navel orange to an existing tangelo tree? If so how do I do it? > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 25 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:37:25 -0700 (MST) > From: Mexvella@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 26 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 09:06:11 -0700 (MST) > From: Hillzones@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > Does anyone know why our citrus trees are losing all their leaves and some of the new buds. We are very worried about them! > An answer will be greatly appreciated, thanks! > > --__--__-- > > Message: 27 > Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 09:43:57 -0700 > From: Sherryl Stalinski > Organization: AuroraNow Foundation > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 28 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:00 -0700 (MST) > From: rcdemark@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > When is the proper time to feed and use Bordeaux fungicide on my Queen Palms? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 29 > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 10:51:20 -0700 (MST) > From: ClaireASP@aol.com > To: > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > > I just recently saw a 10" potted Texas Mountain Laurel at a local Home Depot. It was in bloom, and I thought that the flower was beautiful. I have only seen one of these growing around my area,(No. East Scottsdale), so I am wondering if there is a specific reason for this. Are there certain disadvantages for growing this tree; and is there a reason that I would not want to plant one? You have been very helpful in the past, and I will be anxiously waiting for your comments, once again. In the meantime, I will hold off buying one of these trees. Thanks again for all your help. Claire. > > --__--__-- > > Message: 30 > From: "Linda Drew" > To: babbiejo@juno.com > Cc: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu, thladky@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 19:32:39 -0000 > Subject: [Arid_gardener] currants in Sierra Vista > > Jo Babbie, > > Thank you for your question regarding growing currants in Sierra Vista. > > Your email was forwarded to the Pima County Master Gardeners. If > you have other questions, please feel welcome to send them to: > arid_gardener@ag.arizona.edu > > or you can call us at (520) 626-5161 > > >Can currant bushes grow successfully in Sierra Vista? > > Currants require cool, moist, partially-shaded locations > they are heavy feeders -- rich compost, acid soil > the first year, soil should not be allowed to dry out > they grow in the cooler parts of the U.S. - do not grow well in South > they are host to one stage of the white pine blister rust > > Given that information, I doubt currants would grow well in Sierra Vista. > > The Yuma Experiment Station has successfully grown heat-adapted > varieties of blackberries, but I have not heard any success with > currants. > > Linda Drew > Pima County Master Gardener > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > --__--__-- > > Message: 31 > From: JeanSciFi@aol.com > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 18:25:53 EST > To: ClaireASP@aol.com > CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel > > Hi Claire, > > I have two Texas Mountain Laurel growing in my yard. So far they have been > trouble free and do not need much in the way of supplemental water once > established. I hear there is a beetle that chews on the leaves sometimes but > it doesn't seem to be a major problem. If you buy one I suggest that you buy > the largest you can find in a pot as they grow very slow. > > I have the standard Mountain Laurel as well as the mutated one called Silver > Pecos. As the name implies its leaves are silvery instead of just bright > green. After the bloom the plant will put on pods filled with a few red > seeds. The seeds are poisonous but the seed coat are so hard that they pass > thru a digestive system without ill affects. I still would be careful if you > have small kids or puppies. > > Did you notice that the blooms smell like grape koolaide? I'm very fond of > this plant. If you are anywhere near the Maricopa County Extension office > they have some that are mature trees. > > JeanSciFi@aol.com > Master Gardener > > --__--__-- > > Message: 32 > From: "Ursula Miller" > To: "Sherryl Stalinski" , > Subject: RE: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 16:07:17 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > On the buddleia origins: > > My book says the following: Most of the cultivated species originate in > China, but the genus also occurs in Africa, Madagascar, southern Asia and > South America and includes many tropical and subtropical species. > > My book also says that it's really buddleja - "The spelling buddleia is > often seen for this genus (named after seventeeth century English botanist > Adam Buddle) but buddleja is now ruled the correct form." > > Well, it may be RULED the correct form, but all my other references (books > and nurseries) use buddleia. That's probably because we don't live in a > monarchy. > > My book reference above is a huge book called 'BOTANICA - The illustrated > A-Z of over 10,000 garden plants and how to cultivate them". It's published > in the USA but an imprint of Random House Australia. Maybe the RULING comes > from Queen Liz. > > Someone else will have to answer the daisy question. > > Ursula Miller > > -----Original Message----- > From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu > [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl > Stalinski > Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:44 AM > To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Buddleia origins & Max Sunflowers > > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > End of Arid_gardener Digest_______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:23 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:23 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Citrus leaf drop Citrus leaf drop is normal this time of year. Check out TIMELY TIPS on this website. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:22 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:22 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Texas Mountain Laurel Claire, I have two Texas Mountain Laurels and they put on a beautiful display when they are in bloom. They are a little messy this time of year with the leaf drop and later with the flower drop but I'm willing to put up with that for the floral display. It takes a few years before they really are loaded with blossoms. If you live in the colder part of the valley be sure to protect the young tree by covering it when frost is forcast. As the tree ages it will become hardier. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 00:50:21 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:50:21 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Bordeaux use for Bud Rot control Bordeaux can be used at any time for control of Bud Rot on Queen Palms, however the time when Bud Rot is most likely to cause problems on Queen Palms is mid summer through fall after the monsoon rains may have washed the fungi that causes Bud Rot down inside the palm tree. Are you sure that the problem that you have with the palm is caused by Bud Rot? The symptoms of Bud Rot often appear similar to those caused by a nutrient deficiency, namely a manganese deficiency. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri Mar 2 01:14:46 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 20:14:46 EST From: RodMcQ6@aol.com RodMcQ6@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Mountain Laurel CORRECTION CORRECTION to my answer to claireASP about Texas Mountain Laurel. Sorry but I was thinking about the Jacaranda tree when I answered your email. The TML is an excellent shrub or tree, the only negative is that it is very slow growing, I suggest that you buy the largest plant you can find. This tree is not frost tender but very hardy. Perhaps the reason that you do not see more of them is because they are slow growing they are quite expensive. I have two that have been in the ground four years and are only about 3 feet tall. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From pglopat@cs.com Fri Mar 2 02:01:10 2001 Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 19:01:10 -0700 (MST) From: pglopat@cs.com pglopat@cs.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Can you give me any information you have on the Argentina Cactus? Is there a picture of it available? From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri Mar 2 16:30:32 2001 Date: Fri, 02 Mar 2001 09:30:32 -0700 From: Linda Guy lindaguy@qwest.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Max Sunflowers It performs well in just about any soil, to the best of my knowledge. In general, sunflowers do better sown where you want them to grow...they do not transplant as well as other seedlings. Linda Guy Master Gardener Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > I posted these questions earlier in the week but I think they got lost > in the twilight zone of AZ Starnet's ending its dial up service, so if > someone posted a reply please forgive the redundancy--I just didn't > receive it. > > Does anyone know the origins of Buddleia? The origins aren't listed in > the Western Garden Book. > > Also, does anyone have experience with Maxmillian's Daisy/New Mexico > Sunflower here in the low desert? I've read contradictions--some say > sandy/gravelly soil, others call for more fertile but still well drained > soil. Also, some places say cut to ground in winter after bloom, others > say don't. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director > Aurora Now Foundation > http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org > **************************** > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > ---------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From celtic_2@netzero.net Fri Mar 2 16:56:15 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 09:56:15 -0700 (MST) From: celtic_2@netzero.net celtic_2@netzero.net Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am trying to find the name of a vine that I saw out at the Renaissance Fair. It was growing in very poor soil up a trellis and arbor. It had soft green leaves and lilac looking purple flowers. It was very lush looking for a desert plant, and it provided a lot of shade. From JeanSciFi@aol.com Fri Mar 2 21:15:54 2001 Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 EST From: JeanSciFi@aol.com JeanSciFi@aol.com Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Hello, It sounds like Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia comptoniana). This vine is now in bloom around the valley. I just bought two 1 gallon size plants. I was told to get it in the ground so it will be well rooted before the weather turns warm or it will die. They recommend planting it even in February. You can find information on this plant pg. 316 of Sunsets Western Garden book. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ From JeanSciFi@aol.com Sat Mar 3 15:35:21 2001 From: JeanSciFi@aol.com (JeanSciFi@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 10:35:21 EST Subject: Fwd: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Message-ID: --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-xa05.mx.aol.com (rly-xa05.mail.aol.com [172.20.105.74]) by air-xa05.mail.aol.com (v77_r1.21) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Mar 2001 16:18:27 -0500 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (ag.arizona.edu [128.196.42.70]) by rly-xa05.mx.aol.com (v77_r1.21) with ESMTP; Fri, 02 Mar 2001 16:18:00 -0500 Received: from Ag.Arizona.Edu (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA09473; Fri, 2 Mar 2001 14:17:04 -0700 (MST) Received: from imo-r17.mx.aol.com (imo-r17.mx.aol.com [152.163.225.71]) by Ag.Arizona.Edu (8.9.3+Sun/8.9.3) with ESMTP id OAA09362 for ; Fri, 2 Mar 2001 14:16:35 -0700 (MST) From: JeanSciFi@aol.com Received: from JeanSciFi@aol.com by imo-r17.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v29.5.) id q.3a.118f87bb (4565); Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <3a.118f87bb.27d1678a@aol.com> Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 16:15:54 EST To: celtic_2@netzero.net CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 127 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Lilac vine Sender: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu Errors-To: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-BeenThere: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta5 Precedence: bulk List-Id: Gardening and Landscaping in Dry Climates Hello, It sounds like Lilac Vine (Hardenbergia comptoniana). This vine is now in bloom around the valley. I just bought two 1 gallon size plants. I was told to get it in the ground so it will be well rooted before the weather turns warm or it will die. They recommend planting it even in February. You can find information on this plant pg. 316 of Sunsets Western Garden book. JeanSciFi@aol.com Master Gardener Apache Junction,AZ _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --part1_d.10fb24f1.27d26939_boundary-- From dewbah@aol.com Sat Mar 3 16:55:46 2001 From: dewbah@aol.com (dewbah@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 09:55:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103031655.f23GtkV04861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> how to get rid of weeds on our rock landscape From GSpringer_1@msn.com Sat Mar 3 22:07:48 2001 From: GSpringer_1@msn.com (GSpringer_1@msn.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 15:07:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103032207.f23M7mV07405@Ag.Arizona.Edu> In the fall I planted a Cascalote tree --apparently using too much mulch, and following winter rains, the root ball has sunk significantly. I know the roots are very sensitive to being disturbed as the tree lost all leaves immediately upon being planted. I tried to dig a basin around the trunk, but when it rains it has standing water for several hours. My question is: is it better to leave the tree "as is" (a little too much trunk in the gound) or to try to lift it up and stuff more dirt under it? A few new leaves came back, but not any significant amount. I'm thinking that any movement should be done now before new growth emerges, but I don't know if I'll do the tree more harm by trying to get the bottom two + inches of trunk above ground -- or should just let it be. ALSO: *IF I do lift it out of the ground, will it suffer too much shock to actually move it to another location -- or would it be best for the tree to leave it where it is? I'm expecting to lose leaves, but will new ones come out in March, or will the shock be too much for it to survive? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 02:33:55 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2001 19:33:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Angelonia angustifolia References: Message-ID: <3AA1A993.E732785B@qwest.net> Adam: Upon doing a search of the Internet I came upon the following site: http://www.avantgardensne.com/ Might be a good place to start in your search. Sue Bass Master Gardener Simon554@aol.com wrote: > Dear Arid gardener, Could you tell me where I could find a source for > angelonia angustifolia? > Thankyou, Adam > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From azneet@aol.com Sun Mar 4 03:30:10 2001 From: azneet@aol.com (azneet@aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2001 20:30:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103040330.f243UAV11182@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an established Mexican Bird of Paradise that I would like to transplant. Is this possible? What time of year is best? Are there any precautions that I should be aware of? Thanks for your response. From cage@c2i2.com Sun Mar 4 14:40:34 2001 From: cage@c2i2.com (cage@c2i2.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 07:40:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103041440.f24EeYV06825@Ag.Arizona.Edu> The trunks of my fruit trees really take a sun burn from the sun.......is it recommended I paint them with white paint? what should I use? From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 17:51:24 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 10:51:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Painting for sunburn protection References: <200103041440.f24EeYV06825@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2809C.8D0B6F0A@qwest.net> Please see the following response in our archives to the question of sunburn on citrus trunks. You can use a whitewash or water-based paint for this purpose. http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2000-July/004896.html Sue Bass Master Gardener cage@c2i2.com wrote: > The trunks of my fruit trees really take a sun burn from the sun.......is it recommended I paint them with white paint? what should I use? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rkudron@megavision.com Sun Mar 4 19:10:18 2001 From: rkudron@megavision.com (rkudron@megavision.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 12:10:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103041910.f24JAIV05443@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My daughter recently moved to Az from the mid west,and was wondering what kind of flowers she could plant in containers around her house. I am no help to her for Im not sure what would grow in Az since I live here in Nebr.Any suggestions would be helpful. Sincerely, Connie From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 19:31:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 14:31:58 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Mexican Bird of Paradise Message-ID: There is some confusion about the common name of a beautiful shrub, Caesalpinia pulcherrima which has orange red blossoms most all of our warm season. I hear many in the business calling this shrub Mexican Bird of Paradise where its common name is actually Red Bird of Paradise. The shrub Mexican Bird of Paradise, (Caesalpinia mexicana) has yellow blossoms. Which ever one you have the time to transplant would be the same, and now is a good time to do it. I would suggest cutting it back nearly to the ground if it is the Caesalpinia pulcherrima, have the new hole dug first, then dig up as much root as possible, then get it in the ground immediately and watered. If the plant is the Caesalpinia mexicana and has been grown as a tree then it should be cut back only lightly. Photos as well as a description are shown at this website: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 21:12:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 16:12:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re:Weeds in a desert landscape Message-ID: <4e.1246753e.27d409b5@aol.com> Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 has a number of publications which addres the weed problem and are available for $1.00 each. This website list http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Weeds Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 22:37:52 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 15:37:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plants for Containers References: <200103041910.f24JAIV05443@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2C3C0.832A2BD4@qwest.net> Connie: Most plants can be grown quite happily in containers. We have two publications, a Flower and Bedding Plant Guide and a Flower and Planting Table which can be viewed on-line. Go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers This is our listing of publications. You will find a heading called "Flowers" and below it will find publication AZ1100. Your daughter might want to browse the entire list of publications. Information on ordering copies is at the top of the above mentioned screen. Many branches of the Maricopa County Library also have a binder in the General Reference section containing these publications and she is welcome to make copies. She may wish to look over our entire home page at: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ where she will find some terrific information that will help her in adapting her gardening to living in the low desert. Our annual Spring Garden Fair will be held on March 31 at the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension office. She can find more information regarding this event on our home page. Sue Bass Master Gardener rkudron@megavision.com wrote: > My daughter recently moved to Az from the mid west,and was wondering what kind of flowers she could plant in containers around her house. I am no help to her for Im not sure what would grow in Az since I live here in Nebr.Any suggestions would be helpful. > Sincerely, Connie > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun Mar 4 22:54:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:54:28 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sweet Acacia, pruning Message-ID: <9e.10e49102.27d421a4@aol.com> I would suggest that you wait to prune the acacias until after they are through blooming because the display is quite beautiful. But do you really need to prune them? Check out this website on pruning: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From sjbass@qwest.net Sun Mar 4 23:11:43 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:11:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lemon Grass References: <200103010537.WAA29960@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2CBAF.C4AC110A@qwest.net> I would suggest contacting the Arizona Herb Assn. You can get in touch with them by going to our web page under Garden Clubs or by clicking on: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/clubs/clubs.htm which will take you right there. Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener Mexvella@aol.com wrote: > I'm looking for lemon grass plants or seeds can you help me find some? i have been on the net looking ithout luck. Maybe looking in wrong place. Thanks for your time. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From chavinda56@aol.com Sun Mar 4 23:35:07 2001 From: chavinda56@aol.com (chavinda56@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 16:35:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103042335.f24NZ7V05356@Ag.Arizona.Edu> yes i like to now where i can get a orange tree .moro blood orange i look for the trees in the valley and theres nada so can you till me where theres one or two please thank you very much From buzzcutbyamy@aol.com Mon Mar 5 00:22:17 2001 From: buzzcutbyamy@aol.com (buzzcutbyamy@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:22:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103050022.f250MHV10340@Ag.Arizona.Edu> am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. From buzzcutbyamy@aol.com Mon Mar 5 00:23:39 2001 From: buzzcutbyamy@aol.com (buzzcutbyamy@aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 17:23:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103050023.f250NdV10438@Ag.Arizona.Edu> am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 00:40:54 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:40:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Orange Trees References: <200103042335.f24NZ7V05356@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2E096.43922315@qwest.net> You might try Greenfield's Citrus Nursery in Mesa. Here is there web page: http://www.greenfieldcitrus.com/index.htm Their phone number is (480)830-8000i Sue Bass Master Gardener chavinda56@aol.com wrote: > yes i like to now where i can get a orange tree .moro blood orange i look for the trees in the valley and theres nada so can you till me where theres one or two please thank you very much > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 00:47:22 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 17:47:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Desert-adapted plants References: <200103050022.f250MHV10340@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA2E21A.19346328@qwest.net> We have publications listing various desert-adapted trees, shrubs, ground covers, etc. You can find a listing of publications at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert along with instructions on obtaining copies. You can sometimes find copies at local branches of the Maricopa County Public Library in the General Reference section under Horticulture Publications. You can also view a section of our web page which lists recommended books at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/library.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener buzzcutbyamy@aol.com wrote: > am looking for a list of plants commonly used in landscaping the low desert. > Particularly types used at the Willow Springs Golf course in Palm Springs. Heard it won an award for the use of the drip system and landscape technic. I would like to reproduce it for a front yard in Phoenix. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From MReed@Dynamsys.com Mon Mar 5 14:41:24 2001 From: MReed@Dynamsys.com (MReed@Dynamsys.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 07:41:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051441.f25EfOV13215@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Me and my husband are going to be laying sod down in a week. My questions is, do we need to put fertilizer down first? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 14:45:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 14:45:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: currants in Sierra Vista Message-ID: Good luck with the raspberries - let us know how they work for you. The 6-10-10 fertilizer should be o.k. I've used manure tea a couple of times. Put a large shovelful of manure into a burlap bag and close securely. Place in a large container and fill with water. Steep for a week. Pour results around plants. THe nutrient will be low, perhaps 2-2-2. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: isolde g babbie >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Re: currants in Sierra Vista >Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 17:11:00 -0700 > >since none of the local gardenshops even carry currants it should have >given me an indication though the western garden book did say grows in >all zones but grows best in zones 1-6. am ttrying to talk my daughteer in >boise, ID to grow some for me. while i was at it, i got some bare root >rasperries instead. it says to feed with manure or 510-5 fertilizer which >i could not find, the closest i could come was 6-10-10. would manure tea >be alright also-what appr strength/proportion? appreciate your help. >thanks, jo b. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From todd.l.biggs@intel.com Mon Mar 5 17:04:10 2001 From: todd.l.biggs@intel.com (todd.l.biggs@intel.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 10:04:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051704.f25H4AV14371@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 6 (Neo)dypsis decaryi (triangle palms) in my front yard. There are three an either side of a walkway leading to the front door on teh north side of teh house. The two up near the home are doing pretty well (mostly shaded). All of the others look to be suffering> I have hear soil PH, salt, overwatering, and shock from sunlight. The symptoms are teh fronds are slowing dying back. They have been in the ground for ~10months and they have each produced several new fronds. What I noticed is that the new fronds started off growing long before opening up and gradualy got shorter and shorter. Two of the trees are now about 1ft tall due to this 'dying back'. Any suggestions on how to revive them or should I pull and replce them? From Krulich@aol.com Mon Mar 5 17:34:07 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:34:07 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grafted citrus buds still green Message-ID: <3f.1183b7f6.27d5280f@aol.com> I grafted some citrus buds 2 weeks ago and I took the tape off today to see how they are doing. They are still green. According to publication az1146, it says to remove the tape in 2 to 3 weeks and if the bud is green it is alive. Since it's been 2 weeks and they are still alive, should I put the tape back on and wait for the buds to push through when they sprout, or should I leave the tape off? Thanks, Tom From molinas@aol.com Mon Mar 5 18:21:31 2001 From: molinas@aol.com (molinas@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 11:21:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051821.f25ILVV03269@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Where can I buy a small composter? I live in Mesa. From bbrent6@qwest.net Mon Mar 5 19:28:44 2001 From: bbrent6@qwest.net (bbrent6@qwest.net) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 12:28:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103051928.f25JSiV18974@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How can I get a community garden started near downtown phoenix, where do I go for funding, etc. Thank you for your time. I look forward to seeing you at the next Master Gardner application workshop, as I will be applying. Thanks again Brent Bessette 602-712-1606 From Nadinemiele@cs.com Mon Mar 5 21:57:38 2001 From: Nadinemiele@cs.com (Nadinemiele@cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:57:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103052157.f25LvcV27155@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just bought a house with an established rose garden. I know little about growing roses, and want an organic rose food that is not toxic to adjacent food plants (veggies etc.). Can you recommend a product? If possible, I would like a product that I can apply once a year. Also , I would appreciate any basic information on roses you can send me. Thank you, Nadine Miele From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:17:27 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:17:27 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sod, soil prep Message-ID: <14.1086d663.27d56a77@aol.com> It is too late to put down fertilizer now ,but I highly recommend that you rototill in about 3 inches of mulch before laying the sod. It is most important that the soil is prepared properly in order to give the turf the best start possible. Check out this website about turf: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:17:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:17:31 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Neodypsis decaryi (Triangle Palm ) Message-ID: <4a.1250a5e3.27d56a7b@aol.com> The Neodypsis decaryi is listed in Western Garden Book as being suitable for their zones 20 thru 24 which represents the coastal area of California from Santa Barbara to Mexico. I suspect that it is just too hot and arid here in the low desert of Arizona. Check out this website on palm care: Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon Mar 5 22:34:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 17:34:25 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Rose Fertilizer Message-ID: Nadine, An excellent organic rose fertilizer is Hickman's Rose Food available at Gardeners World, A& P Nursery, and West Valley Rose Society as well as others. I'm sorry but there isn't anything available that will last a whole year on roses. Roses are very hungary plants and should be fed once every 6 weeks except for Nov. and Dec. I'm including a copy of an article that was published in the Republic recently on planting and pruning roses. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian December and January is an exciting time of year for rose lovers, second only to the spring and fall blooming time. The nurseries will be receiving their new stock of roses in mid December, and we rosarians all look forward with anticipation the new rose varieties. For the best selection of varieties don't delay. If you wait until late January you may have trouble finding that favorite rose. You have three options as to where to buy roses: 1. Nurseries, 2. Mail order, 3. Discounters. There is also the option of buying either bare root or potted. My preference is to buy bare root from a nursery that stores the roses in a sawdust bin. The roots of roses stored in a sawdust bin can be examined, and if you don't like the appearance of the roots you don't have to buy. With a packaged rose you don't have that option. After the middle of February my preference is to buy potted roses because they have already started the rooting process, and the chances of survival are much better. If you are unable to find the variety wanted locally, then your only option is mail order.If the mail order option is used, again be sure and order early, not only for the best selection, but you won't want bare root roses shipped to the Phoenix area in March. It's time to plant.Dig the hole a month before you plant if possible, replace the soil with amendments and soak well. Do not put fertilizer in the planting hole at this time. Most rose books recommend a planting hole of at least 18 x 18 inches. My recommendation is to make the planting hole 30 x 30 inches, and especially if the soil is dense clay as is found in most of Maricopa county. If you have much caliche your options are to either dig out the caliche or to build raised beds. It's now planting time. Soak the bare root roses over night in water;dig out some of the planting mix, form a cone,spread the rose roots on the cone with the bud graft 2 inches above grade, backfill and water in well. To keep the canes from drying out mound up either the planting mix or mulch around the canes. January is the time to prune roses for those of you who already have them in your garden. Basically cut your hybred teas, florabundas, and minatures back from 1/3 to 1/2 depending on the size; cut out the dead wood, and strip off all the leaves and clean up around the bush. It is always helpful to attend one of the pruning demonstrations held in public rose gardens by most of the rose societies in the valley. Watch the Saturday newspapers home section for time and place. Have problems with roses or have questions to be answered, call the Master Gardner hot line or talk to one of the many Master Gardner Consulting Rosarians. Rod McKusick, Master Gardner and Consulting Rosarian From dancris@newman.com Tue Mar 6 03:33:24 2001 From: dancris@newman.com (dancris@newman.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103060333.f263XOV13119@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello from South Tempe! I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had always understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking out $20 for a plant. Thanks so much! Shelley Newman email: newman@dancris.com From S2@wvcnet.com Tue Mar 6 14:33:01 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 07:33:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Shelley, Why don't you plant a buddleia instead? They are acclamated to our climate, only need enough water to maintain growth, and boast beautiful lilac flowers (that look almost exactly like lilacs) on a beautiful 6 foot fountain of a perennial shrub. Best news: I just picked up a gallon buddleia at Home Depot for $3.95. -----Original Message----- From: dancris@newman.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/5/2001 8:33 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Hello from South Tempe! I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had always understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking out $20 for a plant. Thanks so much! Shelley Newman email: newman@dancris.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 14:48:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 14:48:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lilacs in Tempe Message-ID: Most lilacs bloom best in regions with decidedly chilly winters, but some do well with only light winter chill. I checked the Sunset Garden Book and did not find any lilacs for zone 13 (the Phoenix area). Here in Tucson (zone 12) we do grow Persian lilac successfully. Howver, we have more winter chill than Phoenix. That being said, the web site is impressive and new cultivars are being developed all the time. In skimming the web page, however, I didn't see any that looked like they could handle little to no chill in winter and 100+ in summer. Which lilac were you considering? Buddleia (butterfly bush) is better suited to our climate and resembles lilac. B. davidii is commonly called summer lilac. You may wat to look at it. Linda Drew Pima County Master Gardener >From: dancris@newman.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) > >Hello from South Tempe! > >I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had >always >understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. >Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather >climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International >Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). > >Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well >in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking >out $20 >for a plant. > >Thanks so much! > >Shelley Newman > >email: newman@dancris.com > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From saz621@primenet.com Tue Mar 6 15:32:51 2001 From: saz621@primenet.com (Mary Irish) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:32:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103051704.f25H4AV14371@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA50323.F8757AF@primenet.com> Todd, We had a Neodypsis decaryi (now Dypsis decaryi I think) in our yard for a few years. It never did any better than what you describe. Our conclusion was a combination of heat and soil, but we never really pursued it much beyond that. We pulled it out. Good luck, Mary Irish From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 6 17:02:56 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 10:02:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: lilacs in Tempe References: Message-ID: <001001c0a65f$74134de0$cf53530c@j0r9501> We have Persian lilacs in Phoenix that bloom each year. See dancris@newman.com for a post on a previous thread. -Olin > >From: dancris@newman.com > >To: > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > >Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 20:33:24 -0700 (MST) > > > >Hello from South Tempe! > > > >I would LOVE to be able to get a lilac to grow and bloom here but had > >always > >understood they needed a cold freeze to get them to bloom in the Spring. > >Recently, I found a Canadian nursery advertising lilacs for warm weather > >climates such as ours. The company is called Select Plus International > >Nursery (www.spi.8m.com). > > > >Could it be true that there really are lilac varieties which will grow well > >in our hot climate? I just wanted to get another viewpoint before forking > >out $20 > >for a plant. > > > >Thanks so much! > > > >Shelley Newman > > > >email: newman@dancris.com > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From DTopham1@aol.com Tue Mar 6 17:54:19 2001 From: DTopham1@aol.com (DTopham1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:54:19 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell Peppers Message-ID: <90.110f1a99.27d67e4b@aol.com> --part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County. I have tried growing sweet/bell peppers for 2 years now without much success. The first year they were next to hot peppers and must have cross pollinated because neither were ever very tasty. About a year ago I planted a new crop and they have only produced peppers with tough skins and thin meat. They have all been slightly bitter and never get particularly large. Any suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each other without cross pollination problems? --part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County.  
I have tried growing sweet/bell peppers for 2 years now without much success.
 The first year they were next to hot peppers and must have cross pollinated
because neither were ever very tasty.  About a year ago I planted a new crop
and they have only produced peppers with tough skins and thin meat.  They
have all been slightly bitter and never get particularly large.  Any
suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each
other without cross pollination problems?

--part1_90.110f1a99.27d67e4b_boundary-- From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue Mar 6 18:24:32 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:24:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell Peppers References: <90.110f1a99.27d67e4b@aol.com> Message-ID: <001801c0a66a$b763f760$cd51530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Are there varieties of sweet/bell peppers that do better in Maricopa County. >... >... Any > suggestions and can you plant different varieties of peppers next to each > other without cross pollination problems? Try Gypsy. It isn't a California-type of bell but it is a sweet pepper and produces very well. Cross-pollination only affects the seed - not the fruit. -Olin From ej10817@goodnet.com Tue Mar 6 19:41:28 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:41:28 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bell peppers Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010306113627.03a9e480@127.0.0.1> Re the discussion on bell peppers, I don't have trouble growing them and they produce pretty well but don't get very big. What is interesting is that they are perennial here in the low desert and I even get some small ones in winter. They are in a warm, protected spot. I bought one in Cottonwood that was locally grown and it is a long skinny type which turns yellow, don't know what kind it is. I plan to grow several types this year including a sweet frying type. I like the multiplying onions too but there again, they don't get very big for me. Is anyone else having that problem? Happy gardening Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From Laeborden1@aol.com Tue Mar 6 18:52:57 2001 From: Laeborden1@aol.com (Laeborden1@aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 11:52:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103061852.f26IqvV21132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you link me with a Phoenix pond group or club? We are having trouble with our pond plants, the water, etc. Have been unsuccessful at locating a website - or group. Many thanks. From captivespirit@mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 19:03:15 2001 From: captivespirit@mindspring.com (Kathleen Wattle) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:03:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Best citrus choices for containers Message-ID: <002301c0a670$1a51f2a0$1dcf56d1@oemcomputer> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I live in the far northeast valley (2100'+) where there is more frost = likelihood and would still like to have some citrus in containers so I = can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, lemon, tangerine, or = lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is the minimum = size container I could use & still get some fruit?=20 Are any varieties (including those listed above & navels & grapefuit) = suited to inground planting here without having to go through hurdles to = do frost protection? If I could plant inground, I'd want a small tree so = it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous lush natural = mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is one small = section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge effect = but all the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it doesn't seem = a likely option. Also if I did plant inground, we have both wash & = higher areas on our land - which would be best for a planting site? Any input will be appreciated. Thank you, Kathleen W ------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I live in the far northeast valley = (2100'+) where=20 there is more frost likelihood and would still like to have some citrus = in=20 containers so I can move them for protection. I'm thinking kumquat, = lemon,=20 tangerine, or lime. Which varieties would do best in containers? What is = the=20 minimum size container I could use & still get some fruit? =
 
Are any varieties (including those = listed above=20 & navels & grapefuit) suited to inground planting here without = having to=20 go through hurdles to do frost protection? If I could plant inground, = I'd want a=20 small tree so it's look did not interfere too greatly with the gorgeous = lush=20 natural mostly untouched desert acreage we live on. However, there is = one small=20 section that I would consider 3 trees in a row for a small hedge effect = but all=20 the citrus I've seen looks so big bushy & huge, it doesn't seem a = likely=20 option.  Also if I did plant inground, we have both wash & = higher areas=20 on our land - which would be best for a planting site?
 
Any input will be = appreciated.
 
Thank you,
 
Kathleen = W
------=_NextPart_000_0020_01C0A635.6CF75580-- From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Tue Mar 6 19:22:53 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 12:22:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103061852.f26IqvV21132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA5390D.6160D080@email.sps.mot.com> Hi! Check out this site: http://www.accessarizona.com/community/groups/pond/ Alan Laeborden1@aol.com wrote: > Can you link me with a Phoenix pond group or club? We are having trouble with our pond plants, the water, etc. Have been unsuccessful at locating a website - or group. Many thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From candijet1@home.com Tue Mar 6 23:41:44 2001 From: candijet1@home.com (candijet1@home.com) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 16:41:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103062341.f26NfiV29218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have brown, yellow circles on my grass. It's turf grass. How do I get rid of these circles and what are they? thank you From ljmattson2000@yahoo.com Wed Mar 7 19:36:19 2001 From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com (ljmattson2000@yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 12:36:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103071936.f27JaIV06301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson From S2@wvcnet.com Wed Mar 7 20:01:34 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:01:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: Jerry, If your plant still has green stems (I've noticed it's easy to tell with a simple light hose-down) leave it alone. It may take another year for the transplant to become re-established and start blooming again, especially if you purchased bare-root plants. Give it occasional supplemental water (every 3-4 weeks or so) for the first year until it establishes, and that's all. Ocotillos are drought-deciduous, so they grow and lose leave up to 3-4 times per year, and each plant will leaf up independently depending on moisture. They usually don't leaf up in the spring until after bloom from my experience, and bloom time is normally mid march through late April. I've seen them blooming early this year in the wild, but it still is pretty early for them. Even if yours doesn't leaf up when others around have, that doesn't necessarily mean the plant is dead. Natives usually don't respond well to our efforts to "help them along". -----Original Message----- From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/7/2001 12:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From S2@wvcnet.com Wed Mar 7 20:09:34 2001 From: S2@wvcnet.com (Stalinski, Sherryl (S2)) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:09:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] RE: more on your ocotillo Message-ID: Jerry, I just re-read your question. If you planted your ocotillo last June, I'd guess that it will spring into action and leaf up by this summer's monsoons, and you may get blooms this spring yet but it may also decide to wait for next spring to bloom (even though they gain/lose leaves several times a year, they only bloom in the spring). Sounds like the plant is alive and fine, though. Be patient, it will be fine. -----Original Message----- From: ljmattson2000@yahoo.com To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Sent: 3/7/2001 12:36 PM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed Mar 7 20:18:34 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 13:18:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo's References: <200103071936.f27JaIV06301@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA6979A.7490C955@email.sps.mot.com> Jerry, >From my experience, when I first planted my two Ocotillo's it took over a year for them to get established and start putting out leaves and blooms. The fact that the stems are green is a good thing. I think it you just give it a little more time to settle in it will come through for you. Mine always loose their leaves in the winter. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ljmattson2000@yahoo.com wrote: > Last June we had a medium to large octillo plant put in our back yard. As of now it has yet to become green, etc. I've observed there is lots of green in the main stems, How do I, if anything, do to help this mature and bloom?? Any other related information on it is much appreciated. Thanks Jerry Mattson > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From annesullivan@home.com Wed Mar 7 20:45:32 2001 From: annesullivan@home.com (annesullivan@home.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 13:45:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103072045.f27KjWV23569@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What is the best way to prepare a garden if you have irrigation rather than a sprinkler system? For example, is it better to have it above ground with railroad ties as borders to keep the irrigation from washing away the seeds or young plants? Thanks. From raykohout@aol.com Wed Mar 7 21:13:19 2001 From: raykohout@aol.com (raykohout@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 14:13:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103072113.f27LDJV01482@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had a Ficus tree in my living room for many years and it was fine. In the last few days, some leaves turn yellow and drop off (about 20 at a time each day). Can you tell me the reason for this and what I can do to fix the condition? From jennaz31@aol.com Thu Mar 8 00:04:17 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 17:04:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? Thank you Jenn From tm9hlz4az@swlink.net Thu Mar 8 02:16:10 2001 From: tm9hlz4az@swlink.net (tm9hlz4az@swlink.net) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:16:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080216.f282GAV02295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a 10'saguaro that was planted in my front yard about 10 years ago. Last year it had only one flower blossom. This cactus has always had a very light green color while other cacti nearby look much darker green. Any cause for concern?? Would fertilizer or ironite be appropriate ?? Thanks for your help. From lenisueaz@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:22:47 2001 From: lenisueaz@aol.com (lenisueaz@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 19:22:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103080222.f282MlV03432@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you give me the Phone number or e-mail address for Larry Bell. I am in need of an e-mail address for Donovan's Roses in Shreveport, La. and I think he is the one who would have this information. I also would like the e-mail address for the American Rose Soceity. I am specifically looking for a Sutters Gold climbing rose but so far am unable to locate it. Any suggestions on where it can be found? Thank you, Sue From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:45:16 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:45:16 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Ficus benjamina droping leaves Message-ID: <86.7d2ce3c.27d84c3c@aol.com> The Ficus benjamina will drop its leaves if it has been moved or because of a change in temperature. Stress of some kind such as over or under watering will also cause it to lose its leaves as will too much fertilizer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu Mar 8 02:54:21 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2001 21:54:21 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re Larry Bell's email address Message-ID: <55.1226bc6e.27d84e5d@aol.com> lmpaBell@yahoo.com American Rose Society http://www.ars.org/ From manoj.chandran@philips.com Thu Mar 8 03:30:28 2001 From: manoj.chandran@philips.com (manoj.chandran@philips.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 04:30:28 +0100 Subject: [Arid_gardener] arabian jasmine Message-ID: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will be very helpful. Thanks. -Manoj From sjbass@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 04:05:18 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2001 21:05:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian Jasmine References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> I do not have experience growing jasmine, however, here is what the Sunset Western Garden book has to say about the plant. In general, all plants in Jasmine family require full sun or partial shade and the large-leafed varieties need water the most. Jasmines thrive in regular garden soil and need frequent pinching and shaping to control growth. What type of soil is your Jasmine growing in? Is it planted in the ground? Is it growing in amended soil? It probably wouldn't be too happy in a heavy clay soil. The book states that Arabian Jasmine can be grown in Sunset zone 13, which includes Phoenix. Perhaps it hasn't had enough humidity despite the more frequent rainy days we have been having? Maybe someone else can comment on this. It is grown in Hawaii as it is a favorite flower in leis, so I would imagine it is happiest in a moist climate. We can sometimes create areas with a little more humidity by grouping plants. This plant also can be grown in a container. Hopefully another list member who has grown this plant can comment further. Sue Bass Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 8 15:49:20 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 08:49:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA7AA00.9B251A0F@email.sps.mot.com> Jenn, I'm confused by what you stated below. If the back patio recieve sun early in the morning and late in the afternoon, wouldn't that be the North side of your house? Anyway, my house faces the same way as yours if that is the case. You might want to go look at my website and see some of the plants I plant on the north side. Especially underneath the patio. Many house plants do wonderful in this area. Also, I have some roses that do well on this side. Generally they are lighter colored roses that do well in shade. The roses I have their are Tropicana, Snowbird, Crepscule, Loetta Liggett, and Reine des Violettes, and Nicole. I have also successfully grown Brugmansia (In full shade) and the house plant, Spider Plant here as well. Also, Wandering Jew has donw well here along with Snap Dragons that reseed theirself, and some mini-roses. I suspect that Lantana might do well here too, although the blooms would not be as good as full sun. Just some ideas, things for you to try. I think the Blue Hibiscus would probably be ok there as well. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! jennaz31@aol.com wrote: > I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. > > I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? > > Thank you > Jenn > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Thu Mar 8 16:08:04 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:08:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200103080222.f282MlV03432@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AA7AE64.32DEBE34@email.sps.mot.com> Hi, I do not have a email address, but here is contact info for Donovan's Roses: Donovan's Roses, P. O. Box 37800, Shreveport, LA 71133-7800; (318) 861-6693 Also, Sutters Gold should be available in the following places: Arena Rose Co.*** PO Box 3096 Paso Robles, California 93447-3096 888-466-7434 (Information) 805-227-4095 (Fax) 888-466-7434 (Ordering) http://www.arenaroses.com (***one of my favorite places to order bareroot roses from, big and healthy!) Regan Nursery 4268 Decoto Road Fremont, California 94555 United States 510-797-3222 (Information) 510-793-5408 (Fax) 800-249-4680 (Ordering) http://www.regannursery.com (they've stopped shipping for this season) Roseglen Gardens Naples, Florida 34114 941-775-4489 (Information) RoseGlenGD@aol.com Hope this helps! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 148 Rose Bushes Planted! 79 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! lenisueaz@aol.com wrote: > Can you give me the Phone number or e-mail address for Larry Bell. I am in need of an e-mail address for Donovan's Roses in Shreveport, La. and I think he is the one who would have this information. I also would like the e-mail address for the American Rose Soceity. I am specifically looking for a Sutters Gold climbing rose but so far am unable to locate it. Any suggestions on where it can be found? Thank you, Sue > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu Mar 8 16:44:31 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 09:44:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 1) oleander move, 2) dry terra cotta inside 3) Penstemon seeds References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> Hi fellow flowerfolk, 1) I think I've figured out that the problem with my oleanders is poor drainage. I tried leaching them a couple of times and it took days for the soil to dry out. They're looking pretty sad... but they're still young. Is it worth trying to transplant them to a better area? 2) I just repotted a bunch of houseplants into some great terra cotta wall hanging pots I picked up in Tubac. The clay seems to just suck the moisture right out of the soil and the soil dries hard by the next day. Should I try lining the pots (but not the drainage holes) with something to keep the moisture in or try going with a heavy potting soil? I don't want to have to water these things every day! 3) I figured I'd report my long-overdue victory with germinating penstemon seeds. I had tried just planting, cold stratifying, and soaking without luck. I finally took my last seeds and soaked them in peroxide for 6-8 hours and they're finally germinating. I'm guessing the cold stratify/peroxide combo is what finally got through that hard seed coat. The seeds are too small at least for me to try scarifying. Just thought I'd share. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From GEMolumby@aol.com Thu Mar 8 16:55:12 2001 From: GEMolumby@aol.com (GEMolumby@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 09:55:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103081655.f28GtCV00081@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have quite a few oranges falling off our trees and they have a black circle around where the stem was. It looks like mold. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 17:01:19 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 10:01:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against common wisdom, no? jk From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 8 17:45:40 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 10:45:40 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual > (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing > temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This > table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 > night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says > you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against > common wisdom, no? As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out (to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the table would know for certain if the two were intended to be the same. But I would agree that the 60s are a bit cool for setting out pepper plants. I have transplanted peppers in February and found they don't grow very much until the days are warmer in March so that there is little to be gained by setting them out too early. But tomatoes will continue to grow right away planted in February and protected from frost. -Olin From bws@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 18:48:53 2001 From: bws@qwest.net (bws@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 11:48:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103081848.f28ImrV26785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> It was May of last year I last communicated with Catht Rymer At that time she helped me bring my four citrus trees back to life after I tried to kill them with an over abundace of fertlizer. They have come back to life and look very good except for the Grape fruit tree. It has yellow leaves. Is this normal. Should I or should I not be doing something. I'd like to send you a digital photo I took this morning to show you what the leaves look like. Cathy Rymer's e-mail address was returned as undeliverable. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 18:51:31 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 11:51:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308114849.00cba100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> At 10:45 AM 3/8/01 -0700, olin wrote: >As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the >transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out >(to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the I think you might have solved the mystery Olin, though you'd think the two would be equivalent. After all, the seedling is going to be growing in the ground just like it was inside. Then, the questions remains, what is the "minimum" day/night soil temperatures for setting out tomatoes and peppers? jk From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu Mar 8 20:15:12 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 12:15:12 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <000601c0a7f7$9d348740$ce53530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> At 10:45 AM 3/8/01 -0700, you wrote: >----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > > > Puzzled by Table 10.4 of Az Master Gardener manual > > (http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/temperature.html), showing > > temperatures required for growing plants and field transplanting. This > > table shows 70-75 F day for tomatoes and 65 -75 F day for peppers; 65-75 > > night for tomatoes and 60-65 for peppers. In other words, this chart says > > you can set out your peppers before your tomatoes! This goes against > > common wisdom, no? > >As I read the table, the temperatures indicated are for growing the >transplants, not the temperature at which the transplants should be set out >(to pick a nit). Probably only the person at UC-Davis who prepared the >table would know for certain if the two were intended to be the same. But I >would agree that the 60s are a bit cool for setting out pepper plants. I >have transplanted peppers in February and found they don't grow very much >until the days are warmer in March so that there is little to be gained by >setting them out too early. But tomatoes will continue to grow right away >planted in February and protected from frost. -Olin I know that is probably right for pepper transplants but for me, peppers are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off all winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even the chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised beds at the end of my house. Pat (aka weird Pat) >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening From millero@worldnet.att.net Thu Mar 8 20:31:09 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 13:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat" > ... for me, peppers > are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off all > winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only > occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even the > chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't > produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this > year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised > beds at the end of my house. My Caribbean Red Habeneros were in the second year and succumbed to frost this winter (unprotected). But the chiltepines (also unprotected) are putting out new leaves. -Olin From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu Mar 8 21:45:50 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 13:45:50 -0800 Subject: [Arid_gardener] ? re AZ Master Gardener Manual planting temperature table In-Reply-To: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> At 01:31 PM 3/8/01 -0700, you wrote: >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Pat" > > ... for me, peppers > > are a perennial in this climate. I have had some small ones on and off >all > > winter from mine, which are grown in a fairly protected area but only > > occasionally have something thrown over them for frost protection. Even >the > > chile peppers are still there though they are in shade in winter and don't > > produce. I am going to try several different kinds of sweet peppers this > > year. Space is a problem for me as I have only a small garden area, raised > > beds at the end of my house. > >My Caribbean Red Habeneros were in the second year and succumbed to frost >this winter (unprotected). But the chiltepines (also unprotected) are >putting out new leaves. -Olin I am curious about the row covers I have heard about..does anyone on this list have any experience with them? I have been using old sheets but then it is necessary to go out and take them off. I think with row covers, it's not necessary to remove them...or am I mistaken? Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening For great service and prices, please visit this site for all your travel needs: http://www.kolb.globaltravel.com From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Thu Mar 8 21:30:08 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 14:30:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] dry dust mulching In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> References: <003401c0a80e$b8559980$a253530c@j0r9501> <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010308142826.00a35f00@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Anyone have any experience with mulching with dry dirt instead of hay etc? I've read it's just as effective to put a few inches of dirt atop your good soil as it to use other stuff. jk From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:54:32 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:54:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tangors Located! Message-ID: <3AA81BB8.A853B3D2@qwest.net> Dr. Wright called me today [Thursday] to advise that Foothills Nursery in Yuma can get you a 15-gal specimen for $39. Unfortunately, he was on the road and did not have the PN with him; you'll have to call directory assistance. If you call before noon tomorrow you will make this week's order. The trees are just about ready to be reboxed into 24" containers, and will certainly be more expensive then. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:55:05 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:55:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian jasmine [Jasmine sambac] References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA81BD9.3843B319@qwest.net> As a footnote to Sue's reply, the "jasmine" that is most often grown and does very well in Phoenix is star jasmine that is a different genus, trachelospermum jasminoides. Linda Guy Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu Mar 8 23:55:20 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2001 16:55:20 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Arabian jasmine [Jasmine sambac] References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> Message-ID: <3AA81BE8.96E7CA91@qwest.net> As a footnote to Sue's reply, the "jasmine" that is most often grown and does very well in Phoenix is star jasmine that is a different genus, trachelospermum jasminoides. Linda Guy Master Gardener manoj.chandran@philips.com wrote: > My Arabian Jasmine plant which I purchased a month ago looks pretty bad. > It has a few green leaves but many leaves have half dried out. It gets plenty > of water, so I dont know what the problem is. Any insights on this plant will > be very helpful. > > Thanks. > > -Manoj > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Fri Mar 9 00:45:57 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 17:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Floating Row Covers References: <0056890023447293000002L932*@MHS> <3AA704FE.9BA6F058@qwest.net> <4.2.2.20010308095458.00cbcc30@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308120743.009ebd70@127.0.0.1> <5.0.2.1.0.20010308134337.00a14200@127.0.0.1> Message-ID: <006101c0a832$60e00860$a253530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat" > I am curious about the row covers I have heard about..does anyone on this > list have any experience with them? I have been using old sheets but then > it is necessary to go out and take them off. I think with row covers, it's > not necessary to remove them...or am I mistaken? I use floating row covers often. The covers are not reliable for frost protection - only offer about 4 deg of protection according to the manufacturers. The best use for me is to protect newly planted seeds from birds and to protect seedlings from insects and birds. For non-fruiting vegetables that do not need insect pollination, the covers do not need to be removed. I usually remove the covers when the plants are large enough to lay out drip tapes and apply mulch. At this stage most plants are no longer attractive to birds and insects don't seem to be a serious problem. Lettuce is an exception - the cover stays on because birds are always a problem with lettuce. Olin From tcarillon@hotmail.com Fri Mar 9 04:11:36 2001 From: tcarillon@hotmail.com (tcarillon@hotmail.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:11:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103090411.f294BaV20894@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have enjoyed the March and April garden tours I have gone on in the past years; however, it is always hard to get the information as to when and which tours are scheduled. Sometimes I'll see it in the Republic, other times in Phoenix Home and Garden, etc. I'm not talking about the expensive Garden Conservancy tours - just the local garden clubs,etc. How can I find out more about these? From PERFLOWERS@aol.com Fri Mar 9 04:43:06 2001 From: PERFLOWERS@aol.com (PERFLOWERS@aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 23:43:06 EST Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <66.cce0466.27d9b95a@aol.com> The 6th annual Valley of the Sun Gardeners Tour is Saturday, March 31, from 10 to 4 pm. There will be 7 gardens on the tour (2 of them are front yards only). Four of the yards are located in Central Phoenix, one on 32nd St & Shea, one at 36th St & Thunderbird and the last at 89th Way and Thunderbird. Both Baker Nursery and Southwest Gardener are selling tickets (I just took them this afternoon). Tickets are $5.00 for all 7 gardens. Two Rose Clubs are having tours the middle of April. As far as I know, those are the only tours put on by local garden clubs this year. Val From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 9 04:21:02 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:21:02 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Patio Garden In-Reply-To: <200103080004.f2804HV10759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Jenn - I also like a colorful patio and got tired of the annual plantings. So I decided to plant some heat loving shrubs in larger pots on the patio. One shrub that works out very well is the bougainvillea. There are several shrubby types in various colors that do really well in pots and they have such gorgeous colors!!! Also, you can train them into standards to get some height with color on the patio. (You can buy them as standards but they're easy to train yourself as long as you buy one with a good main stem that becomes the 'trunk'.) I also have a pomegranate bush in a pot which is nice and eventually will have orange flowers. In the foreground I am currently trying to grow lantana in pots. That way - with the bougainvillea standards, the medium height bougainvillea bushes and the lantana I should have various levels of color. (Of course, there is a lot of pruning involved with these bushes, but a snip here and a snip there goes a long way. Lots of watering, too, in the summer - usually every other day. Once or twice a week during the rest of the year.) I've also planted a couple of small oleanders in pots. I'm not sure how that will work out but I'm giving it a try. I tried vinca, which is one of my favorite flowers out here. But it didn't work in pots because they started looking 'leggy' even though the ones in the ground in my yard are not leggy at all -- in fact, the ground ones are very full and bushy. That may be because the sheer numbers in the yard 'fill out' the area, while less of them in pots don't fill out as well. I'm guessing at that. I just know that vincas in pots didn't do the trick for me. So my solution to having a colorful patio was to use traditional bush-type plants and keep them in pots. So far, it looks nice. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of jennaz31@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2001 5:04 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I am searching for plant suggestions for the area off my back patio. It recieves a southern exposure. We moved in the home in August. All winter the space (it is quite large, I am terrible at gestimations) recieved no sunlight. Yet, in August and beginning in late Feb. as the sun has moved I am getting sunlight about 2pm. I very much enjoy the "cottage garden" look but am having trouble finding anchor plants that look good with such extreme light situations. The garden center says I will just have to plant masses of annuals every season. Does anyone have any other suggestions? What about the blue Hibiscus? Thank you Jenn _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Fri Mar 9 04:21:15 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 21:21:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Terra Cotta Pots Drying Out In-Reply-To: <3AA7B6EF.5147CDC8@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: Sherryl - I have given up on terra cotta pots here in the dry heat. I had lots of them and treated tbe pots with sealers that can be bought in nurseries and home stores. It didn't work. I didn't think to line them so that could be worth a try. The only plants that I keep in terra cotta pots now are cacti. Thanks for the information on the penstemon seeds. That was my question originally. Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Sherryl Stalinski Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2001 9:45 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] 1) oleander move, 2) dry terra cotta inside 3) Penstemon seeds Hi fellow flowerfolk, 1) I think I've figured out that the problem with my oleanders is poor drainage. I tried leaching them a couple of times and it took days for the soil to dry out. They're looking pretty sad... but they're still young. Is it worth trying to transplant them to a better area? 2) I just repotted a bunch of houseplants into some great terra cotta wall hanging pots I picked up in Tubac. The clay seems to just suck the moisture right out of the soil and the soil dries hard by the next day. Should I try lining the pots (but not the drainage holes) with something to keep the moisture in or try going with a heavy potting soil? I don't want to have to water these things every day! 3) I figured I'd report my long-overdue victory with germinating penstemon seeds. I had tried just planting, cold stratifying, and soaking without luck. I finally took my last seeds and soaked them in peroxide for 6-8 hours and they're finally germinating. I'm guessing the cold stratify/peroxide combo is what finally got through that hard seed coat. The seeds are too small at least for me to try scarifying. Just thought I'd share. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From gmaboat@earthlink.net Fri Mar 9 05:47:24 2001 From: gmaboat@earthlink.net (gmaboat@earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2001 22:47:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103090547.f295lOV05171@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a new house and have planted all low-water use desert plants. Our drip irrigation system is in and ready to go (when the rain stops!) but we don't know how to set it up (ie; how many gallons per hour, etc.) Can you give us some general guidelines? Our trees include palo verde and Brazilian pepper and the shrubs are mostly jasmine and yucca. Thanks! From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 14:16:47 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:16:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Terra Cotta solutions & oleander in containers References: Message-ID: <3AA8E5CF.5152F51@AuroraNow.org> Thanks Ursula, Another list member said she's had luck lining the pots with plastic. I'm going to repot mine this weekend and try some industrial plastic wrap I have (leaving the drain hole open of course). She said she's had little luck with the waterproof sealer--it helps, but not enough. By the way, my way of dealing with the drain hold on pots that hang on the wall has been to cut a small piece of sponge and stick it in the hole (which absorbs the excess then dries out without dripping down the wall). It works like a charm. I have some large outdoor containers I should do the same interior plastic wrap with, but that will be a project! Re: dwarf oleanders in containers. I've actually seen standard size oleanders in large containers (36") do quite well, as well as the dwarfs so yours should be fine. Judging from my in the ground experience, the trick might be good drainage. (I had a small texas ranger in a container with regular potting soil and it obviously was too moist for it and I ended up having to replant it in the ground). I'm thinking of digging up my suffering dwarf oleanders and putting them in containers with a well draining cactus/succulent soil mix and see if I can't get them to bounce back before I put them back in the ground in another spot. Ironically, the Western Garden Book says oleanders can tolerate poor drainage which has not been my experience at all. -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From s2@AuroraNow.org Fri Mar 9 14:24:22 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2001 07:24:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] @#$%^&*! Dogs! References: Message-ID: <3AA8E796.E4B2AACC@AuroraNow.org> Please share your experience: My dogs keep eating everything I plant in "their" yard (including ocotillo and existing cholla!). It seems nothing shy of a 3 ply, 3 foot fence of chicken wire protects my young trees and shrubs. Since we *do* share our backyard with these spoiled mutts (blame my spouse and offspring) I *would* like to SEE what I plant instead of a yard dotted with chicken wire cylinders. Anyone try any creative home remedy deterrants with luck? -- Sherryl Stalinski, Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://auroranow.org || e-mail: s2@AuroraNow.org **************************** "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller ---------------------------- From acook7419@aol.com Fri Mar 9 14:28:28 2001 From: acook7419@aol.com (acook7419@aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2001 07:28:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200103091428.f29ESSV26396@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like the best way to transplant a Saguaro Cactus and the probability of survival. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri Mar 9 14:58:20 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: