Native trees

From umiller@azdps.com Tue May 1 02:30:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:30:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drooping Oleanders Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0D1AB.F922E3C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I posted the question abut drooping oleanders a while ago and there was some discussion, but nobody seemed to know exactly why oleanders might do this - if they're given adequate water. So I went on the web and found another poor soul somewhere out there who had posed the same question on another gardening group. She said that she was told that the plant might have been in the pot too long at the nursery and was deprived of nitrogen which would have caused the plant to become leggy and droop. Does this make sense? I ended up cutting back the droopy canes and they are now sprouting new growth which will make the plant bushier, I hope, and should actually make it look nicer. But I wonder about the nitrogen story. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0D1AB.F922E3C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I posted the = question abut=20 drooping oleanders a while ago and there was some discussion, but nobody = seemed=20 to know exactly why oleanders might do this - if they're given adequate=20 water. So I went on the web and found another poor soul somewhere = out=20 there who had posed the same question on another gardening group. = She said=20 that she was told that the plant might have been in the pot too long at = the=20 nursery and was deprived of nitrogen which would have caused the plant = to become=20 leggy and droop.

Does this make = sense? =20

I ended up cutting = back the=20 droopy canes and they are now sprouting new growth which will make the = plant=20 bushier, I hope, and should actually make it look nicer. But I = wonder=20 about the nitrogen story.

Ursula Miller

------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0D1AB.F922E3C0-- From mangell@skipco.net Tue May 1 13:11:35 2001 From: mangell@skipco.net (mangell@skipco.net) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 06:11:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105011311.f41DBZa20880@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two 24" box size multi-trunk "Desert Museum Palo Verdes" planted approx 6 months ago. My puppy has chewed off practically all the beautiful green bark from the ground up to 3 ft on all sides of each of the multi-trunks.. Can these trees be saved? - What can I do with the bare tree trunks ? From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue May 1 14:30:09 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 07:30:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] illiterate rabbits References: <200105011311.f41DBZa20880@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEEC871.7F6B927D@AuroraNow.org> Hi gang, My illiterate rabbits, who haven't read the list of "rabbit proof" plants, have now knocked down and eaten two of my young (4-5 pads) Santa Rita prickly pear cacti. (I've caught them nibbling red-handed--I hope their little mouths are stuck full of glochids!). (They also ate my verbena, which is also supposedly "rabbit resistant" even though it was sitting right next to some nice juicy grass). I know I can save a few of the pads and replant them, but does anyone know if the base of the plant and the roots will re-sprout? (They broke them about 1" from the ground. Grrrr!). I'm wondering about an effort along the lines of "Literacy Lessons for Lepus") -- Sherryl Stalinski Executive Director Aurora Now Foundation http://www.auroranow.org From dv_boman@prodigy.net Tue May 1 15:30:19 2001 From: dv_boman@prodigy.net (dv_boman@prodigy.net) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 08:30:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105011530.f41FUJa08759@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Corn tasseling too soon? Our sweet corn has started putting out tassles even though the plants are only 1-2 ft tall. I've noticed that the corn in the near by fields is about the same height but hasn't started tasseling. This same problem occured last year and the ears never did develop to full size. Any suggestions on what we are doing wrong? We are located in South Chandler near Riggs and Cooper and have very sandy soil. Thanks. From BETTOWN@aol.com Tue May 1 17:26:15 2001 From: BETTOWN@aol.com (BETTOWN@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:26:15 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105011726.f41HQFa02774@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Dixileta Gardens have a vine that grows on a split rail fence-looks & smells like a honeysuckle. Has black flowers with little yellow inside. Called the store & they said they thought it was a Kinetta from Australia. I have searched garden websites plus Australian Flowers plus search engines and can find nothing on it. Maybe its the wrong name--Dixileta Gardens do not sell it. Thank you in advance for your help. Elizabeth Townley From patsyvip@home.com Tue May 1 19:10:44 2001 From: patsyvip@home.com (patsyvip@home.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 12:10:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105011910.f41JAia25879@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently purchased a boojum tree for the arboretum. Potted, gets morning sun on east side,water about every 7 days, about 5 inches high, nice branch spread.Now that weather is warmer,it doesn't look too happy.Leaves not as green,some a bit yellow. I don't want to loose this beauty. Help! From SundanceY2K@aol.com Tue May 1 21:23:17 2001 From: SundanceY2K@aol.com (SundanceY2K@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 14:23:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105012123.f41LNHa21683@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have 3.50 acres of land that I'm trying to landscape myself. Most of the acreage is level (very rocky) and I want to create hills and a more interesting contour. What type of soil would you recommend. Landscapers and others that haul dirt recommend a variety of types. Most of the plants we like seem to require sandy, rocky, & limestone soil. Is there a mixture that would make both plants happy? From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 1 21:46:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 14:46:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Landscaping References: <200105012123.f41LNHa21683@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AEF2ECF.4A5ED10B@qwest.net> I would recommend a simpler solution, which I too have used in my yard. I would create washes [what a landscape architect might call a swale] and use the dirt I removed to form the interesting contouring [called berms] you are hoping to achieve. The swales can be strategically placed around trees or other vegetation to catch rainfall and/or roof and downspout runoff. I've seen too many instances where the dirt hauled in was not clean, containing nuisance plants/seeds that cost a fortune to remove after the landscaping was completed. A neighbor two doors down had this happen with the worst possible weed: nutsedge. They were horrified and spent two years getting rid of it, a major battle and expense. If you elect to purchase soil, get a written guarantee about covering this type of imported problem. To do it yourselfl, start with garden hoses to trace the images on your grounds, and spray paint when you feel you like the shapes. [This is not unlike doing a pond.] Then get yourself a bulldozer and go to town! [Our yard was small enough that we dug it ourselves.] A funny anecdote that I just have to relate before closing. I trusted my native AZ husband to understand the general concept of a wash and had him start digging without benefit of the garden hose/spray paint strategy. When I returned from an errand, I had a rectangular lap pool in the front yard! I laughed so hard and of course he was furious. But when I explained to him that the earth is a mother, after all, and we all had curves he got the idea immediately and started to soften and contour all his trenching. I laid the garden hose out for the ones to follow! Linda Guy Master Gardener SundanceY2K@aol.com wrote: > We have 3.50 acres of land that I'm trying to landscape myself. Most of the acreage is level (very rocky) and I want to create hills and a more interesting contour. > > What type of soil would you recommend. Landscapers and others that haul dirt recommend a variety of types. > > Most of the plants we like seem to require sandy, rocky, & limestone soil. Is there a mixture that would make both plants happy? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 1 21:57:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 01 May 2001 21:57:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vine, smells like honeysuckle Message-ID: Elizabeth, I'm not familiar with the name "kinetta" either. could it be one of the honeysuckles, Lonicera periclymenum. It resembles L. japonica, has fragrant flowers that are purple outside and yellow inside.Common name is woodbine. Another possibilty is Thunbergia erecta, related to black-eyed susan vine. It has velvety dark blue flowers with orange or cream throats. Common name is king's mantle. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: BETTOWN@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 10:26:15 -0700 (MST) > >Dixileta Gardens have a vine that grows on a split rail fence-looks & >smells like a honeysuckle. Has black flowers with little yellow inside. >Called the store & they said they thought it was a Kinetta from Australia. >I have searched garden websites plus Australian Flowers plus search engines >and can find nothing on it. Maybe its the wrong name--Dixileta Gardens do >not sell it. >Thank you in advance for your help. >Elizabeth Townley > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From www.pete.pool@rivcom.net Tue May 1 22:40:33 2001 From: www.pete.pool@rivcom.net (www.pete.pool@rivcom.net) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 15:40:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105012240.f41MeWa10913@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I planted some hybrid tea roses that was in a petmoss contaner. I cut the sides place them in a 14# plasket pot contaner. I used some potting soil mix I have gotten some good blooms on all my plants, but lately sarting to get some yellow on roses. I think this from over watering, is there better way to prevent this problem. thank you for your input. From gritt1@excite.com Wed May 2 01:55:56 2001 From: gritt1@excite.com (gritt1@excite.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:55:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105020155.f421tua10857@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Are there any flowering ground covers that do well in the Phoenix summers? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 2 03:02:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 23:02:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drooping Oleanders Message-ID: Ursula, If the oleanders were root bound when planted and the roots are circling the root ball and you are watering at the drip line and the water is not getting back to the root ball where the roots are, the plant would wilt. Could you have over fertilized the oles, this would cause the plant to wilt but the leaves would show burned edges. Are you watering with pool water? I don't agree with the nitrogen difficiency, if this were true the leaves would be pale green or yellow. Plants become leggy when they have inadequate light or are pruned incorrectly. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 2 03:02:52 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 23:02:52 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde with bark chewed off Message-ID: <45.5ee6734.2820d2dc@aol.com> If your pup has removed the bark to bare wood over half way round the trunks it is too late to do anything. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 2 03:17:08 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 23:17:08 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses with yellow leaves Message-ID: <8e.14f444b8.2820d634@aol.com> Yellow leaves can be caused by either over or under watering but in this case since you think that the roses have been overwatered I would agree with you. There are some potting mixes that do not drain well enough to satisfy roses, I usually add sand to a potting mix when planting roses in a pot. Before watering I suggest doing the finger test or use a moisture meter. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian From tcarillon@hotmail.com Wed May 2 04:08:45 2001 From: tcarillon@hotmail.com (tcarillon@hotmail.com) Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 21:08:45 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105020408.f4248ja28567@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello; I have a large white calla lily I started from a bulb 3 years ago. It has done beautifully except for this year. It is planted in sunny location in well-drained, good garden soil. It is well watered. This year I got very little bloom - only 3 -4 4 lilies (compared to 15 or more last year). The flowers also were smaller than before. The leaves and foilage are very busy and profuse, but started yellowing about 3 weeks ago. Is it too much water (it's same as last year, I think - on automatic drip) - or does it need iron chelate? Or what? From clord@mobl.com Wed May 2 14:52:34 2001 From: clord@mobl.com (clord@mobl.com) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:52:34 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105021452.f42EqYa28075@Ag.Arizona.Edu> There is something eating my palo brea. I have not seen any insects but there are horizontal cuts running across the bark, the cut only remove the bark, terminating in at a point which oozes sap. What is eating the tree, and how can it be controlled? From 116central@earthlink.net Wed May 2 15:22:28 2001 From: 116central@earthlink.net (116central@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 08:22:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105021522.f42FMSa03091@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i hope you can help me with this ongoing problem of huge toads in my "walled" in backyard..i have a pool and was wondering if it is the water that they are attracted to.is there anything that i can use to repel these critters that would not be harmful to my dog?? i'm desperate! needless to say that this is a seasonal problem but nevertheless a most annoying one. thanks in advance.m/c From envconnections@yahoo.com Wed May 2 19:28:35 2001 From: envconnections@yahoo.com (linda levitt) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:28:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] gourd goop Message-ID: <20010502192835.5622.qmail@web1901.mail.yahoo.com> Around our gourd garden this am we found a pile of doughy-looking white goop bubbling around the base of the plant? any ideas __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 2 21:35:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:35:58 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Toads Message-ID: The toads probably are attracted to the water in your yard. Is it possible that you have openings in your wall that the toads can squeeze through? Can you seal off these avenues and prevent entry? I suppose it is also possible that the toads are living permanently in your yard. Spadefoot toads are tough. They spend two months of wet weather feeding, calling, mating and egg-laying. Then they dig into the ground with the 'spade' on the hind legs. They spend the next ten months encased in dried mud until wet weather returns. Toads are efficient insect eaters. The Sonoran desert toads do exude a poison when grabbed by a dog, so you probably need to find out what kind of toad you have -- Sonoran (hoot like a boat whistle), spadefoot (short trills or bleats) or red-spotted (sounds like a cricket). These really are facsinating animals. Is it possible to set up a sinkhole outside your wall, then catch and release the toads out there? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: 116central@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 08:22:28 -0700 (MST) > >i hope you can help me with this ongoing problem of huge toads in my >"walled" in backyard..i have a pool and was wondering if it is the water >that they are attracted to.is there anything that i can use to repel these >critters that would not be harmful to my dog?? i'm desperate! needless to >say that this is a seasonal problem but nevertheless a most annoying one. >thanks in advance.m/c > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 2 21:45:09 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:45:09 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] gourd goop, slime mold Message-ID: This sounds like slime mold, a fungus that lives in the soil.(the Myxomycetes or Mycetozoa) http://www.nps.gov/olym/microfauna/slimemold.htm "Slime molds possess both animal and plant like characteristics. They form three main groups, none of which are closely related. Most of their lives are spent as microscopic amoebas, some with flagella, roaming independently through the forest feeding on organic matter, bacteria, and other microscopic morsels. During food shortages, slime molds swarm and aggregate into an enormous single cell." http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/mushroom/slimemold/slimemold.htm "Slime molds belong to a class of fungi, the Myxomycetes, that is characterized by the production of relatively large, single-celled, multinucleate bodies called plasmodia (singular = plasmodium). Plasmodia are the feeding stages of slime molds, and they are frequently seen on lawns, small plants, mulch, and decaying wood in late summer. Slime molds are not plant parasites, but they may injure plants by covering and shading them." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: linda levitt >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] gourd goop >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 12:28:35 -0700 (PDT) > >Around our gourd garden this am we found a pile of >doughy-looking white goop bubbling around the base of >the plant? any ideas > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices >http://auctions.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 2 21:52:37 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 21:52:37 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo brea, horizontal cuts Message-ID: Last summer, we saw something similar on palo verde. We suspected it was caused by overwatering -- the natural horizontal banding on the trunk expanded and split from too much water. However, we never found out for certain. I would be very interested in finding out what is happening with your trees. Do you see any evidence at all of insects or bird damage (sapsuckers make a horizontal band of evenly spaced holes, for example). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: clord@mobl.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 07:52:34 -0700 (MST) > >There is something eating my palo brea. I have not seen any insects but >there are horizontal cuts running across the bark, the cut only remove the >bark, terminating in at a point which oozes sap. > >What is eating the tree, and how can it be controlled? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 2 22:03:40 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 22:03:40 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Groundcover plants, flowering Message-ID: Try going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm and click on: AZ1110 Ground Covers for Arizona Landscapes Several are listed and will give you some ideas. Myoporum is used a lot in commercial areas in Tucson. Verbenas and trailing lantanas generally do well. There are many other ground covers to choose from. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gritt1@excite.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 18:55:56 -0700 (MST) > >Are there any flowering ground covers that do well in the Phoenix summers? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 2 22:06:37 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 22:06:37 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Boojum Message-ID: Boojums are winter growers. Is it just going into summer dormancy? I would check with the arboretum for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: patsyvip@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 12:10:44 -0700 (MST) > >I recently purchased a boojum tree for the arboretum. Potted, gets morning >sun on east side,water about every 7 days, about 5 inches high, nice branch >spread.Now that weather is warmer,it doesn't look too happy.Leaves not as >green,some a bit yellow. I don't want to loose this beauty. Help! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From ej10817@goodnet.com Thu May 3 01:17:27 2001 From: ej10817@goodnet.com (Pat) Date: Wed, 02 May 2001 18:17:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] calla lily Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010502181122.00a99350@mail.winstarmail.com> --=====================_43698516==_.ALT Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Recently, I bought a while calla lily in a pot and was surprised to read on the care instructions that it is a bog plant. To test this out, I put it on a ledge in my pond and it is doing well, blooming almost constantly. I believe the Sunset Western Gardening Book also give the info that it is a bog plant so the person having a problem with her calla might want to try more water. Pat Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101 http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening --=====================_43698516==_.ALT Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

	Recently, I bought a while calla lily in a pot and was surprised to read on the care instructions that it is a bog plant. To test this out, I put it on a ledge in my pond and it is doing well, blooming almost constantly. I believe the Sunset Western Gardening Book also give the info that it is a bog plant so the person having a problem with her calla might want to try more water. Pat

Pat Kolb, Contributing Editor, Low Desert Gardening, Suite 101
http://www.suite101.com/welcome.cfm/low_desert_gardening

--=====================_43698516==_.ALT-- From artyaf@aol.com Thu May 3 02:55:35 2001 From: artyaf@aol.com (artyaf@aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 19:55:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105030255.f432tZa00394@Ag.Arizona.Edu> While reading the article in todays Garden section of the Republic (5/02/01) in the gardeners to do list relative to the focus on lawns. ! how do you obtain 1/2 lb of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq ft or yet 6 oz of iron. The one inch of water per the usual tuna can method! Iguess I need help in 1/2 pound of nitrogen which is a gas? 6 oz of iron may be also hard to come buy in the powder state. How about recomending a commercial fertilizer that would fill the bill? Thanks for you help and understanding From ebenware@juno.com Thu May 3 05:14:55 2001 From: ebenware@juno.com (Edna JK Benware) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 22:14:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Nitrogen for Grass Message-ID: <20010502.221702.-165121.13.ebenware@juno.com> - The nitrogen for your lawn is not a gas. - All fertilizers have as a standard three numbers, written on the bag. Example: 20-5-5 - The first number is always the nitrogen content in percent of total product. - 20 in this example indicates 20% is nitrogen. - In order to have dispersed 1 pound of nitrogen, you need to use 5 pounds. - For the "1/2 lb per 1000 sq feet" then you would need to use 2.5 lbs. - For recommendations on a specific fertilizer, visit your favorite nursery. Considering the Cooperative Extension program provides these recommendations to the newspaper, recommending one specific product is prohibited as it would be considered as government endorsement of the product over others, and this is not the case. Nitrogen is Nitrogen. - As for the iron, it is known that chelated iron is available more quickly to plants due to the nature of the soils here; but iron may also be a micronutrient in your fertilizer, which if used consistently, is an acceptable source provided your lawn is not already showing signs of iron deficiency. Again, your nursery employees are able to answer these questions for you. Edna Benware Maricopa County Master Gardener On Wed, 2 May 2001 19:55:35 -0700 (MST) artyaf@aol.com writes: > While reading the article in todays Garden section of the Republic > (5/02/01) in the gardeners to do list relative to the focus on > lawns. > ! how do you obtain 1/2 lb of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq ft > > or yet 6 oz of iron. > The one inch of water per the usual tuna can method! > > Iguess I need help in 1/2 pound of nitrogen which is a gas? > 6 oz of iron may be also hard to come buy in the powder state. > > How about recomending a commercial fertilizer that would fill the > bill? > > Thanks for you help and understanding > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From stuelst@earthlink.net Thu May 3 05:40:42 2001 From: stuelst@earthlink.net (stuelst@earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 22:40:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105030540.f435ega20287@Ag.Arizona.Edu> how do i keep squirrels out of our apricot tree as the fruit ripens? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 3 19:26:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 19:26:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: shade vs sun Message-ID: Sun until 10 a.m. is partial shade. Many beautiful plants could grow here. Do you want natives? Do you want to grow annual flowers? Perennial flowers? shrubs? The pool area would be considered full sun. Choose plants that can handle lots of sun such as bouggainvillea. Let me know more about what you want to grow and I can give you some other suggestions. Linda Drew Master Gardener > > From: AINAELGA@aol.com > > Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 11:55:28 EDT > > Subject: shade vs sun > > To: ceweb@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > X-Mailer: AOL 6.0 for Windows US sub 10523 > > > > > > HI..If my area that I am planting get morning sun...till about 10AM and >then > > in shade the rest of the day (my front flower box up against the house), >can > > that be considered SHADE for lighting? Also, by my pool, I have a raised > > planter, which gets full sun until about 4PM...then shade..how would >you > > classify that area...full sun, or sun/shade??? > > Please feel free to give me examples of colorful plants for both >areas... > > Thanks aina _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From archsoul@qwest.net Thu May 3 21:32:35 2001 From: archsoul@qwest.net (archsoul@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 14:32:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105032132.f43LWZW19852@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Please help us identify a flying insect we saw in our yard today. It looked like a huge wasp. It had a velvety, metallic blue body with red wings. Please identify it and let us know if it is dangerous and if we should eliminate it from our yard. From cindyngates@msn.com Thu May 3 22:26:18 2001 From: cindyngates@msn.com (cindyngates@msn.com) Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:26:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105032226.f43MQGW29447@Ag.Arizona.Edu> my vegetables are blooming like crazy (zuks, tomatoes,squash,peppers) but none are setting to fruit. What could be going wrong. From sjbass@qwest.net Thu May 3 22:31:49 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 15:31:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tarantula Hawk Wasp References: <200105032132.f43LWZW19852@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF1DC55.ADCB285F@qwest.net> If you go to the following link http://www.nps.gov/moja/mojaantw.htm You will see a picture and description of a tarantula hawk wasp. If this fits your insect's description, they prey on trap door spiders and tarantulas as their name suggests. They are nectar feeders. They are also the state insect of New Mexico (just a little tidbit). I don't believe they are a danger to you. Can anyone else provide more information? Sue Bass Master Gardener archsoul@qwest.net wrote: > Please help us identify a flying insect we saw in our yard today. It looked like a huge wasp. It had a velvety, metallic blue body with red wings. Please identify it and let us know if it is dangerous and if we should eliminate it from our yard. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From HelensBaby@aol.com Thu May 3 22:32:44 2001 From: HelensBaby@aol.com (HelensBaby@aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:32:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105032232.f43MWiW01336@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our problem is with Bermuda grass. There is an area in our front yard that is a real eyesore. The former owners of the house put an enormous amount of river rock in this space and evidently didn't put any plastic down on the ground first. The result is a major problem with Bermuda grass. We have used gallons of Round Up and yet the grass just keeps coming. In fact, it seems worse now than when we started treatment. We are beginning to think the only way to solve the problem is to take out all the rock (a major undertaking) and then physically remove the grass and put down a plastic sheet and go from there. Do you have any other way we can solve this problem? We are readying the property for sale and are trying to keep costs at a minimum. From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu May 3 22:41:38 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 03 May 2001 15:41:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tarantula Hawk Wasp References: <200105032132.f43LWZW19852@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AF1DC55.ADCB285F@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AF1DEA2.5C11B769@AuroraNow.org> > I don't believe they are a danger to you. Can anyone else provide more information? That's what it sounds like to me, too. We used to get oodles of 'em when we lived in the Foothills. They're intimidating, but harmless (unless of course, you're a spider) at least from our experience. (My son once went to battle with one, swiping away at it trying to "save" his favorite young tarantula in our yard. It never gave any indication that it had any interest in him, even being antagonized). Sherryl From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 4 02:59:12 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 02:59:12 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Squirrels Message-ID: You could try putting a wire fence around the tree and top it with metal flashing. This might be effective in keeping the squirrels out of the tree. It won't work longterm because the squirrels will eventually burrow under the wire. Another solution might be to install a low voltage electric fence around the tree to discourage climbing. Squirrels are pretty clever and good problem solvers, so you may have to adjust tactics over time. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: stuelst@earthlink.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 2 May 2001 22:40:42 -0700 (MST) > >how do i keep squirrels out of our apricot tree as the fruit ripens? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 4 03:16:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 03:16:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetables not setting fruit Message-ID: Cindy, Perhaps the flowers are not being pollinated. Have you seen any bees? You may need to hand poolinate the squashes. Tomatoes are wind pollinated. I know they won't set fruit when temps are too high, but I don't think it has been that hot yet. Stumped as to what could be wrong, but maybe others have an idea. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: cindyngates@msn.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:26:18 -0700 (MST) > >my vegetables are blooming like crazy (zuks, tomatoes,squash,peppers) but >none are setting to fruit. What could be going wrong. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 4 03:26:07 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 03:26:07 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bermuda grass, how to kill Message-ID: Roundup should kill the bermuda. The trick is that the bermuda must be actively growing for Roundup to be effective. Since the bermuda grass is just coming out of dormancy now, that may explain why Roundup isn't working. You may need to water the bermuda and get it growing vigorously, then apply Roundup according to label direction. Applying more than recommended won't work. You want the grass to keep growing vigorously for 7-14 days to give the agent time to translocate into the roots and then kill the root. You will need to keep watering and encouraging the grass. Apply a second application of Roundup two weeks after the first and again keep the grass growing for 7-14 days. This should clear most of the bermuda grass. Please resist the urge to use a quick-kill like Triox. Plastic should not be necessary under the river rock. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: HelensBaby@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 15:32:44 -0700 (MST) > >Our problem is with Bermuda grass. There is an area in our front yard that >is a real eyesore. The former owners of the house put an enormous amount >of river rock in this space and evidently didn't put any plastic down on >the ground first. The result is a major problem with Bermuda grass. We >have used gallons of Round Up and yet the grass just keeps coming. In >fact, it seems worse now than when we started treatment. We are beginning >to think the only way to solve the problem is to take out all the rock (a >major undertaking) and then physically remove the grass and put down a >plastic sheet and go from there. Do you have any other way we can solve >this problem? We are readying the property for sale and are trying to keep >costs at a minimum. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From clydic@goodnet.com Fri May 4 06:11:49 2001 From: clydic@goodnet.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 23:11:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200105032132.f43LWZW19852@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: Hello; I'm a Gila County Master Gardener who lives out in the boonies. We had a visit from the Tarantula Hawk Wasp; it wasn't agressive with us; however, one very pretty tarantula became lunch while we watched the bazaar scene. I believe they are not harmful to humans; I recall reading in our "bug book," after watching it for 30 minutes as it worked and worked and worked to get that large spider into the tunnel where it promptly laid an egg and few away. It took only minutes to disable the spider. -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of archsoul@qwest.net Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 2:33 PM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Please help us identify a flying insect we saw in our yard today. It looked like a huge wasp. It had a velvety, metallic blue body with red wings. Please identify it and let us know if it is dangerous and if we should eliminate it from our yard. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From Nonelson@aol.com Fri May 4 13:34:43 2001 From: Nonelson@aol.com (Nonelson@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 09:34:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Tomatoes Message-ID: --part1_d0.1521d343.282409f3_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have planted Early Girl tomatoes several months ago and have been doing fine up to now. The leaves have brown spots and the smaller fruit have areas where the flesh of the tomato is missing and looks like it has been eaten. What are possible reasons and cures. Thank you --part1_d0.1521d343.282409f3_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have planted Early Girl tomatoes several months ago and have been doing
fine up to now. The leaves have brown spots and the smaller fruit have areas
where the flesh of the tomato is missing and looks like it has been eaten.
What are possible reasons and cures.
Thank you --part1_d0.1521d343.282409f3_boundary-- From glotoni@aol.com Fri May 4 14:13:09 2001 From: glotoni@aol.com (glotoni@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 07:13:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105041413.f44ED9W11375@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to know, what is the recomended, water schedule, for a timer on the sprinkling system. I have 3 valves, one for grass, trees, and shurbs. I have contacted the water dept. but they sent me a card, that I could not understand. Any help you can give me, would be greatly appreciated. Thank You. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 4 18:06:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:06:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation Message-ID: The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your questions and is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 4 18:08:55 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:08:55 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Watering plants during summer Message-ID: <87.a97c3e2.28244a37@aol.com> The Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation should answer most of your questions and is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RkBetu@aol.com Fri May 4 18:22:12 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 14:22:12 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailanthus trees Message-ID: I have two ailanthus trees that I planted in 1980. One is doing great, the other seems to be dying. Beginning about 3 yrs ago,the leaves on both were much smaller and smaller limbs died. I assumed it was the drought and began a watering schedule (though previously these trees did fine on normal rainfall,which here is about 10").This winter I pruned the top 25% off the sick tree. It has leafed out only on the lower half. What leaves it has seem healthy. Only symptom it had was leaf drop. The upper limbs are completely dead. Since '80, I have had more than 2 dozen ailanthus volunteers sprout. Last year I lost several, mostly those 5 to 10 years old. On some, there are deep bark splits, vertical, healed over. A couple of other healthy trees also have these splits. I would really love to save the oldest tree. I think the prolonged drought in this area may have been the cause, though last yr I would leave the sprinkler on overnight about every 3 weeks. Any light on what is wrong? I live half way between Sun City and Wickenburg. Most of the trees are at least 8' apart. Thank you, Rock Betu From mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu Fri May 4 17:49:28 2001 From: mar@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Michael Rose) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 11:49:28 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Everbloom roses Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20010504114902.00ace3d0@ag.arizona.edu> Maybe someone from this list can help? >From: Scherette1@aol.com >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:28:48 EDT >Subject: Everbloom roses >To: lab@Ag.Arizona.Edu >X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 > >Can you please tell me where I can purchase everbloom roses (either net or >800#) for a residence in Florida? > >Thank you, >Mike -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Michael A. Rose System Administrator Ag Networking Lab University of Arizona (520) 621-2489 mar@ag.arizona.edu -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 4 19:37:24 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 19:37:24 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Everbloom roses Message-ID: Please check with the Cooperative Extension Office in your Florida county. They will have the best information about which roses will do best in your location in Florida. Use a search engine and search for everbloom rose to find some resources. (I used google.com and got 56 hits). Linda Drew Master Gardener >>From: Scherette1@aol.com >>Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:28:48 EDT >>Subject: Everbloom roses >>To: lab@Ag.Arizona.Edu >>X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 >> >>Can you please tell me where I can purchase everbloom roses (either net or >>800#) for a residence in Florida? >> >>Thank you, >>Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From Krulich@aol.com Fri May 4 19:56:46 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:56:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Watering large trees Message-ID: <42.14481ba0.2824637e@aol.com> I have a very large aleppo pine with a 35' + diameter canopy. I've been told that I need to water it at least 3' deep and approximately 5' out from the drip line to 5 - 10' in from the drip line. Now I tried watering the tree 5' in and 5' out from the drip line and it's using a ridiculous amount of water to get down at least 3'. I have only watered about 2/3 around the drip line and it's used 2000 gallons of water so far! Is it really necessary to give it that much water? How often does a tree that large need to be watered? The last time I watered it was Nov' 2000. Also, why do the trees in the city do so well even when most of the root zone is covered with pavement? I see these huge (and I mean HUGE) trees that appear to be doing so well, and then I see that they only have about 100 sq. ft. (or less!) of uncovered ground. I can't figure it out. Thanks, Tom From crollkenneth@hotmail.com Fri May 4 22:35:17 2001 From: crollkenneth@hotmail.com (crollkenneth@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:35:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105042235.f44MZHW11070@Ag.Arizona.Edu> when planting either seeds or plants, what do i have to do or add to the soil before i get started? i'd like to plant mostly vegatables(tomatoes,zucchini,summer squash,cucumbers,peas,ect.)i'm recently "transplanted" from ny.& am not familiar with desert gardening...i need HELP!! any other tips i should know would be appreciated. thank you! From gizmoaz@home.com Fri May 4 23:00:34 2001 From: gizmoaz@home.com (GizmoAZ) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:00:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fwd: Everbloom roses References: <5.1.0.14.0.20010504114902.00ace3d0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3AF33492.628C3ECD@home.com> Is this a name brand rose, or the name of a rose? There are several roses named "Everbloom ....". Can the person requesting this information, give us some more information on the rose, where they saw it at, etc.? ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 155 Rose Bushes Planted! 87 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! Michael Rose wrote: > Maybe someone from this list can help? > > >From: Scherette1@aol.com > >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 14:28:48 EDT > >Subject: Everbloom roses > >To: lab@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Windows 95 sub 64 > > > >Can you please tell me where I can purchase everbloom roses (either net or > >800#) for a residence in Florida? > > > >Thank you, > >Mike > > -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Michael A. Rose > System Administrator > Ag Networking Lab > University of Arizona > (520) 621-2489 > mar@ag.arizona.edu > -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From accordino@qwest.net Fri May 4 23:12:22 2001 From: accordino@qwest.net (accordino@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 16:12:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105042312.f44NCMW17168@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you recommend a good shade tree for my Northwest Phoenix yard? It will be on the south side of the house (lots of sun in the summer). Two fruit trees in this area, an apricot and a plum, have both died after 3 years. Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 4 23:22:20 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 23:22:20 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vegetable garden, soil Message-ID: Arizona soils are typically alkaline (high pH) with low organic matter. These two factors can make vegetable gardening a challenge in Arizona. Composted manures and worm castings are good additions to add organic material and help lower the alkalinity. Your local Extension Office will have brochures to help, including "Ten Steps to a Successful Vegetable Garden". the book, "Desert Gardening for Beginners: How to Grow Vegetables, Flowers and Herbs in an Arid Climate" by Cathy Cromell, Linda Guy and Lucy Bradley is an excellent introduction. It is available at: The book is available at bookstores (ISBN 0-9651987-2-3). It can also be purchased at the Maricopa County Extension Office, the three Master Gardener satellite offices , or through the mail. Cost is $7.95, plus $2.00 shipping. Make checks payable to University of Arizona and mail to Arizona Master Gardener Press, 4341 E. Broadway Road, Box 192, Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: crollkenneth@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 15:35:17 -0700 (MST) > >when planting either seeds or plants, what do i have to do or add to the >soil before i get started? i'd like to plant mostly >vegatables(tomatoes,zucchini,summer squash,cucumbers,peas,ect.)i'm recently >"transplanted" from ny.& am not familiar with desert gardening...i need >HELP!! any other tips i should know would be appreciated. thank you! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Fri May 4 23:33:36 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:33:36 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening References: <200105042235.f44MZHW11070@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF33C50.B476BFBD@qwest.net> In addition to Linda's response, two other very good sources of information are the Master Gardener Manual, which you can view on line via the following link: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/ Also, the Cooperative Extension's web site: http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/maricopa/garden/ The Timely Tips section offers month by month suggestions of what to do, what not to do, things to watch for, what to plant, etc. Very informative. Take your time perusing this site. It is loaded with great info. And welcome to the desert! Sue Bass Master Gardener crollkenneth@hotmail.com wrote: > when planting either seeds or plants, what do i have to do or add to the soil before i get started? i'd like to plant mostly vegatables(tomatoes,zucchini,summer squash,cucumbers,peas,ect.)i'm recently "transplanted" from ny.& am not familiar with desert gardening...i need HELP!! any other tips i should know would be appreciated. thank you! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri May 4 23:40:18 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Fri, 04 May 2001 16:40:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Euphorbia trigona References: <001401c0b573$616d6680$f36ad3c6@9g9u8> Message-ID: <3AF33DE2.F579863@qwest.net> --------------FDEBBA33F89FDF475F550B1F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was personally interested in your query because I have a newly purchased [fall DBG plant sale], good-sized specimen that was listing in the pot when I purchased it. Couldn't resist it, particularly since it was the last one available for sale, so against my better judgement, I bought it. So I decided to call the DBG hotline, only to speak with someone who had just killed hers! Talk about getting some great advice from not so master gardeners! Here's what we suggest. No direct sun, it burns on the exposed side. Susceptible to frost. Do not overwater [the person at the DBG thinks hers, planted outdoors, succumbed to a combination of cooler winter temps and a wetter period than normal. The plant was under a roofline and simply got soaked.] Do not overwater these babies and make sure they have quick draining soil meaning a substantial portion of pumice or grit. Don't water in winter while dormant. Use diluted fertilizer starting now when growing season is upon us, and new leaves are being set. When in doubt, do NOT water Mine has rotted from watering once every 6-8 weeks this winter. I am taking the pieces, making fresh cuts, and trying to root them in sand, based on my source's input. Be careful because the milky sap is an irritant to many people's skin. The source at the DBG chuckled when she opened her ultimate book on euphorbias and read something along the lines of 'everyone wants a magic formula for watering euphorbias.' Good luck, and sorry it took so long for me to track this down for you. I just always seem to be with a client during the one hour per week day when the DBG takes calls from the public! Linda Guy, Master Gardener June_Harris wrote: > Can you help me find out more on how to care for and propogate my > euphorbia trigona? Any help or direction to help would be very much > appreciated. June HarrisJune_Harris@MSN.com --------------FDEBBA33F89FDF475F550B1F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was personally interested in your query because I have a newly purchased [fall DBG plant sale], good-sized specimen that was listing in the pot when I purchased it. Couldn't resist it, particularly since it was the last one available for sale, so against my better judgement, I bought it.

So I decided to call the DBG hotline, only to speak with someone who had just killed hers! Talk about getting some great advice from not so master gardeners!

Here's what we suggest. No direct sun, it burns on the exposed side. Susceptible to frost. Do not overwater [the person at the DBG thinks hers, planted outdoors, succumbed to a combination of cooler winter temps and a wetter period than normal. The plant was under a roofline and simply got soaked.]

Do not overwater these babies and make sure they have quick draining soil meaning a substantial portion of pumice or grit. Don't water in winter while dormant. Use diluted fertilizer starting now when growing season is upon us, and new leaves are being set. When in doubt, do NOT water

Mine has rotted from watering once every 6-8 weeks this winter. I am taking the pieces, making fresh cuts, and trying to root them in sand, based on my source's input. Be careful because the milky sap is an irritant to many people's skin.

The source at the DBG chuckled when she opened her ultimate book on euphorbias and read something along the lines of 'everyone wants a magic formula for watering euphorbias.'

Good luck, and sorry it took so long for me to track this down for you. I just always seem to be with a client during the one hour per week day when the DBG takes calls from the public!

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener

June_Harris wrote:

Can you help me find out more on how to care for and propogate my euphorbia trigona? Any help or direction to help would be very much appreciated. June HarrisJune_Harris@MSN.com

--------------FDEBBA33F89FDF475F550B1F-- From demellp@swlaw.com Sat May 5 01:58:13 2001 From: demellp@swlaw.com (demellp@swlaw.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 18:58:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105050158.f451wDW05919@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an almond tree - how do I know when to harvest the almonds? Thanks- From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Sat May 5 03:22:08 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 May 2001 20:22:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105050322.f453M8W15056@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have often wondered if dry granular fertilizer such as citrus fertilizer could be diluted in water before application. I ask this because I own several citrus trees in Tucson with chipped bark mulch under them. Pulling back all the mulch around them would take quite a while and would not result in an even distribution of fertilizer. If I could dilute the fertilizer in water and drench the soil then water it in would that work. It seems to me that the tree would take it up faster and it would be a more even distribution. Any thoughts? max From southpawaz@home.com Sat May 5 10:17:57 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 03:17:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Where to buy pumice? Message-ID: <3AF3D355.1BC55C88@home.com> Hi all, Looking for a retail source of pumice somewhere in the Phoenix area, N. Scottsdale preferred but anywhere is okay. -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat May 5 16:25:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 09:25:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Where to buy pumice? References: <3AF3D355.1BC55C88@home.com> Message-ID: <3AF42974.E8D52959@qwest.net> I purchase mine from Bakers Nursery in the Arcadia area of Phoenix [40th Street and Indian School]. You could call Tufflite and see who their retailers are. Linda Guy, MG Bobby wrote: > Hi all, > > Looking for a retail source of pumice somewhere in the Phoenix area, N. > Scottsdale preferred but anywhere is okay. > > -- > Bobby > southpawaz@home.com > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat May 5 16:37:23 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 09:37:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cross-country Plant Transport References: <200104241330.f3ODUIu08879@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF42C43.F0ED758F@qwest.net> I've traveled cross country with some of my plants and have had about a 40% loss rate. Have you asked your favorite local nursery about how to mail plants this size? Linda Guy, MG Irenehope@aol.com wrote: > We'll be moving to the Phoenix area @ Aug/Sept. I want to bring my plumeria with me. We' ve grown it from a tiny sticl. It's now @ 6 ft tall, and last year the top split to 3 brances. It's in a pot. > Can you tell me the best way to bring it. > Among my options are; shipping with my furniture, sending via U S Post or UPS, carrying it with us in the car, some how, as we drive across country from Connecticut. If you can think of any other options, please let me know. > Thank you, > Irene > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Sat May 5 16:59:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sat, 05 May 2001 09:59:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering large trees References: <42.14481ba0.2824637e@aol.com> Message-ID: <3AF4317D.AA86352E@qwest.net> Many of these huge trees in my Arcadia neighborhood of east Phoenix are in yards that receive biweekly flood irrigation. The one in my front yard does not. I water it maybe 3x during the summer with the hose over a 24 hour period to stave Aleppo Pine Blight which is thought to be caused by drought. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm But these are drought-tolerant trees originally from the deserts of the Middle East. I believe, and Mary Irish writes as much in her book Gardening in the Desert, that a cautious hand in the use of water will keep the tree at a more manageable size in a large home yard setting. Linda Guy, MG Krulich@aol.com wrote: > I have a very large aleppo pine with a 35' + diameter canopy. I've been told > that I need to water it at least 3' deep and approximately 5' out from the > drip line to 5 - 10' in from the drip line. > > Now I tried watering the tree 5' in and 5' out from the drip line and it's > using a ridiculous amount of water to get down at least 3'. I have only > watered about 2/3 around the drip line and it's used 2000 gallons of water so > far! Is it really necessary to give it that much water? How often does a > tree that large need to be watered? The last time I watered it was Nov' 2000. > > Also, why do the trees in the city do so well even when most of the root zone > is covered with pavement? I see these huge (and I mean HUGE) trees that > appear to be doing so well, and then I see that they only have about 100 sq. > ft. (or less!) of uncovered ground. I can't figure it out. > > Thanks, > Tom > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lxl62313@qwest.net Sat May 5 17:03:07 2001 From: lxl62313@qwest.net (lxl62313@qwest.net) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 10:03:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105051703.f45H32W11557@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We need someone who will diagnose and treat a 12' tall saguaro which suddenly has an 8" vertical split near bottom, and is leaning precariously towards that direction in the last two weeks. No material is oozing from the split. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat May 5 20:27:11 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:27:11 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Applying fertilizer disolved in water to citrus trees Message-ID: As long as you dilute the fertilizer water mix enough so that you do not burn the roots you should be ok. I would not make the mix any stronger than 1/2 oz. of fertilizer per gallon of water. This will be quite labor intensive unless you use a syphon in a concentrated solution. Most nurseries sell a syphon for this purpose. I use one for fertilizing my roses frequently. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From jazznme4ak@aol.com Sat May 5 20:58:20 2001 From: jazznme4ak@aol.com (jazznme4ak@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 13:58:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105052058.f45KwKW02716@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a young Mesquite tree in my front yard and would like to know if staking is a good idea. The tree is about 15-18 ft tall. I have been in the house only two years so I don't know its age. I had staked it when I moved in and it has grown considerably with my watering and fertilizers so I am wondering if it is ok to remove the stakes at this point. thank you for your help. I could not find info in the books I have. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat May 5 21:30:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 17:30:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Saguaro leaning precariously Message-ID: <3e.b3b686a.2825cadb@aol.com> If your saguaro is leaning precariously then it is too late to save it. I would suggest that you have someone who is qualified remove it soon before it falls and injures someone or something. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From kctreedoctor@hotmail.com Sat May 5 23:51:46 2001 From: kctreedoctor@hotmail.com (kctreedoctor@hotmail.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 16:51:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105052351.f45NpkW16784@Ag.Arizona.Edu> A mature grapefruit tree has several small breaks in the bark and a golden substance is oozing out and crystalizing....what causes this. It is only on the south side of the tree, it's not sunburn damage. Could it be insect problems? From choate@primnet.com Sun May 6 02:16:13 2001 From: choate@primnet.com (choate@primnet.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 19:16:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105060216.f462GCW26433@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I would like to start a veg. garden. The spot that I have chosen is an established lawn area. The size of the garden I would like to start would be 6X8 area. My question is what is the best way to start? Would it be better to dig up the lawn area or could I build a 2ft high incloser and just simply put it over the lawn and not have a problem latter on with the grass growing up threw the 2ft thick layer of soil? will I always have a problem with the grass no mater what I do? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 6 02:19:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:19:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mesquite tree, removing stakes Message-ID: <40.b2c5fa0.28260eb0@aol.com> It is time to remove the stakes from your Mesquite tree, hopefully you have deep watered the tree to encourage the roots to go deep so that the tree won't blow down. There is great information about tree care at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 6 02:29:10 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 May 2001 22:29:10 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis Message-ID: <9d.14e427ce.282610f6@aol.com> What you are seeing on your grapefruit tree is called Gummosis. Unfortunately there is no treatment available. The tree may apear unhealthy for a time but seldom die. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drgarnett@msn.com Sun May 6 23:58:22 2001 From: drgarnett@msn.com (Donald Garnett) Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 16:58:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro rescue Message-ID: ------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D64D.C2744700 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable There is a very large saguaro in our neighborhood in NW =20 Tucson that is leaning over quite heavily, and looks like it is in danger of falling over - a hazardous situation since it is on a street corner. Is there someone in Tucson to call for saguaro rescue in such a situation? Don Garnett

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer = at http://explorer.msn.com
------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D64D.C2744700 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

There is a= very large saguaro in our neighborhood in NW

Tucson tha= t is leaning over quite heavily, and looks like it

is in dange= r of falling over - a hazardous situation since

it is on a str= eet corner. Is there someone in Tucson to

call for saguaro res= cue in such a situation?

Don Ga= rnett

G= et your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

------=_NextPart_001_0000_01C0D64D.C2744700-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 6 23:36:59 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:36:59 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailanthus trees dying Message-ID: <4c.14c5e962.28273a1b@aol.com> Rock, I would agree with your accessment that the prolonged drought had a lot to do with the death of your trees. The deep watering should have helped unless you waited too long to water. My information says that they can exist on 10 inches of annual rainfall, however we do not have that here in Maricopa County. My suggestion would be to deep water monthly during the summer. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 7 00:56:51 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 00:56:51 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro rescue Message-ID: Don, You will need to find out who owns the saguaro. Is it on City right of way? If you think it is, call Tucson Street and TRaffic Maintenance Division at 791-3191 or 791-4144 after hours. If it is on private property, the owners need to contact a saguaro salvage/relocation company such as: Old Pueblo Cactus 1802 E. Roger Road Tucson, AZ 85719 520.327.2679 mobile: 520.906.0811 Saguaro relocation and removal specialist Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Donald Garnett" >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] saguaro rescue >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 16:58:22 -0700 > > >There is a very large saguaro in our neighborhood in NW >Tucson that is leaning over quite heavily, and looks like it >is in danger of falling over - a hazardous situation since >it is on a street corner. Is there someone in Tucson to >call for saguaro rescue in such a situation? > > Don Garnett

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >http://explorer.msn.com

_________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net Mon May 7 19:09:38 2001 From: j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net (j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net) Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 12:09:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105071909.f47J9cb27973@Ag.Arizona.Edu> How do I plant sweet potatoes,special tips,fertilizer etc. Thanks June From sjbass@qwest.net Mon May 7 19:36:56 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 12:36:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Potatoes References: <200105071909.f47J9cb27973@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF6F958.E0C961D@qwest.net> --------------2A00AD3EE22798162C569A13 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you go to our archives at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm and type in sweet potatoes in the search area, you will find information from recent discussions on this topic. If you've never searched our archives, there is a wealth of information out there on all sorts of gardening topics. Sue Bass * Master Gardener j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net wrote: > How do I plant sweet potatoes,special tips,fertilizer etc. Thanks June > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener --------------2A00AD3EE22798162C569A13 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you go to our archives at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm
and type in sweet potatoes in the search area, you will find information from recent discussions on this topic. If you've never searched our archives, there is a wealth of information out there on all sorts of gardening topics.

Sue Bass

Master Gardener

j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net wrote:

How do I plant sweet potatoes,special tips,fertilizer etc. Thanks June
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------2A00AD3EE22798162C569A13-- From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon May 7 21:36:12 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 14:36:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? In-Reply-To: <200105071909.f47J9cb27973@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, from 30 to 80%.) jk From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 01:39:51 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 01:39:51 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? Message-ID: I have always heard 62% to 68% shade cloth for summer gardens. I'm interested in what others recommend. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jonathan Kandell >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? >Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 14:36:12 -0700 > >What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes >during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, >from 30 to 80%.) > >jk > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From vochopz@prodigy.net Tue May 8 03:22:40 2001 From: vochopz@prodigy.net (vochopz@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:22:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105080322.f483Meb18988@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I own a yucca strata. It is not looking healthy at all. It is slowly turning brown and loosing its lower fronts. It is planted in a pot. Does this has anything to do with it? Please respond back. I do not want to lose it, it is a very nice one. From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue May 8 04:01:13 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:01:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a couple oddities. References: Message-ID: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> Hi all, I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base (mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 8 05:09:52 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 22:09:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? References: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009301c0d77f$7b30fb80$8151530c@j0r9501> I use 50% for tomatoes in NW Phoenix. Sometimes also shade peppers. Don't know if that would also be appropriate for Tucson. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes > during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, > from 30 to 80%.) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 13:26:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 13:26:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? Message-ID: Sherryl, I noticed bugs on my brittlebush, too. When I checked them out they appear to be lace bugs (not the green lace wings, but a scking insect that starts out dark and turns white as it matures. Never seen them on this plant before. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] a couple oddities. >Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:01:13 -0700 > >Hi all, >I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of >variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it >is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe >started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base >(mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this >mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it >since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 >small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. > >Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* >seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really >tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just >some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). > >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. > >Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 14:54:29 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:54:29 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? Message-ID: Sherryl, Lace bugs have the potential to weaken the plant. I'm just watching mine at the moment to see if any beneficial insects show up. My books recommend spraying with a superior horticultural oil such as Sunspray Ultrafine Oil. (2 1/2 tablespoons of oil mixed with water to make one gallon; irrigate plants well before treatment; don't apply at temps above 85; slightly toxic to humans and other mammals). Linda >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? >Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 07:13:31 -0700 > >Linda, >do you think these little white suckers (!) are something I should worry >about? Should I spray the plants do you think? >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. > >Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue May 8 15:03:32 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 08:03:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? References: Message-ID: <3AF80AC4.2FB5F04B@AuroraNow.org> > don't apply at temps above 85; Ha! Well that will be around October, so I guess I'll just watch them and wash 'em off occasionally. I've noticed, by the way, that my 3 tecoma stans seem to be ladybug magnets. I see at least 2-3 ladybugs a day on them... but they haven't hopped over to the brittlebush to help it out. Maybe I should start some sweet peas to get some mantis' back in the loop. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue May 8 16:41:49 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 09:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? In-Reply-To: <009301c0d77f$7b30fb80$8151530c@j0r9501> References: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010508093936.0182f660@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> >I use 50% for tomatoes in NW Phoenix. Sometimes also shade peppers. Don't >know if that would also be appropriate for Tucson. -Olin Thanks Olin. By the way, why is it that peppers are so much more sensitive to heat than tomatoes? I would thought the opposite, but I've needed to water my peppers almost every day, whereas tomatoes still getting by with weekly. Leaves of pepper almost always seem to be wiliting, and they suffer immediately from lack of water. jk From auntiekoo@home.com Tue May 8 21:07:25 2001 From: auntiekoo@home.com (auntiekoo@home.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:07:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105082107.f48L7Pb07275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello -- we are new Arizona vegetable gardeners! Also, we want to participate in the plant a row for the homeless program. What, if anything, can we grow in the summer? We've got partial sun and full sun areas. Thanks for any information, Karen From Krulich@aol.com Wed May 9 01:47:51 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 21:47:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleander problem Message-ID: <64.ddd16cf.2829fbc7@aol.com> I have a question regarding my oleanders. They are looking really bad right now. A lot of the leaves are turning yellow, which I know happens every year and I get nervous every time it happens. ;) It seems like only my oleanders are looking bad right now. The ones in town look great, full of green leaves and flowers. Am I not watering them enough? I last watered them a little more than a month ago, and maybe again a month and a half before that. They are really large, old oleanders. They're not dying, they just don't look good. What gets me is that I have a few oleanders that I haven't watered since...maybe August 2000 and they actually look better than the ones they I water regularly. They're not getting water from any other source either, and they've got quite a few flowers. Any ideas what's going on? Thanks, Tom From cbp87@home.com Wed May 9 03:26:20 2001 From: cbp87@home.com (cbp87@home.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 20:26:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105090326.f493QKb07624@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just bought some beans at the produce store called, 'maricopa beans." Have you ever heard of them? Are they called something else? I can't find out anything about them. From srwcrypto@aol.com Wed May 9 06:51:58 2001 From: srwcrypto@aol.com (srwcrypto@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 23:51:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105090651.f496pwb28223@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is There any way to keep the Australian bottle tree from dropping popcorn (flowers) all over the place this time of year? From RkBetu@aol.com Wed May 9 16:17:56 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:17:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailanthus trees dying Message-ID: Thank you for your replies. I know my ailanthus are on the edge of their tolerance zone and have started watering more thoroughly. I have another question regarding them. How are they reproducing? None of mine have ever gotten seed pods - all males? I know they put up shoots from the roots, but I have dug out many that were not attached to any roots. Some are on the other side of the house, some 50+ feet away from the larger trees.It took the 2 original trees over 10 yrs before others started sprouting. Rock Betu From jcp5@mindspring.com Wed May 9 16:22:10 2001 From: jcp5@mindspring.com (jcp5@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:22:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105091622.f49GMAb22849@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have small hopping bugs by the hundreds in our grass lawn, they leave large brown areas in our lawn and then start in another spot on the Bermuda. The birds are loving them, but we don't. We don't want to use a pesticide that will harm either our pets or the birds. What should we do to eliminate this problem? From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 9 16:59:48 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 09:59:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer vegetables References: <200105082107.f48L7Pb07275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF97784.96090F10@qwest.net> Karen: The following link will take you to a publication (AZ1005) that you can view online. It is a vegetable planting calendar for Maricopa county. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable In general, warm season vegetables are those that produce a fruit. Peppers, eggplant, etc. Sue Bass Master Gardener auntiekoo@home.com wrote: > Hello -- we are new Arizona vegetable gardeners! Also, we want to participate in the plant a row for the homeless program. What, if anything, can we grow in the summer? We've got partial sun and full sun areas. Thanks for any information, Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodgerrung@aol.com Wed May 9 21:54:57 2001 From: rodgerrung@aol.com (rodgerrung@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:54:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105092154.f49Lsvb25392@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Lemon bush and Navel orange tree. The Lemon is on it's third year and the Navel is on second. The problem I have is they both have lots of blossoms and fruit sets on only to drop off, resulting in no fruit. Is there anything I should be doing? I fertilize and deep water. Also my Lemon bush has grown to about 8 feet, should I cut it back? I live in Gilbert and the house is built on previous farm land. Thank you, Rodger From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Young citrus not bearing fruit Message-ID: Roger everything is normal with your citrus trees, they do not typically bear fruit until they are 4 to 5 years old. The lemon tree grows very vigorously and may need to be pruned to keep it with in bounds, but this is not the time of year to prune it. One must be very careful when you do prune the lemon to not take off too much and expose either the trunk or the limbs to the sun for they will sunburn. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottletree litter Message-ID: <71.d3b86d1.282b27c5@aol.com> Sorry but flowers and seeds are natures way of reproducing and we don't know of a way of stopping that nor do we want to. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleander problem Message-ID: <57.15bed55d.282b27c7@aol.com> Tom, I suspect that you are not watering often enough which is one cause of yellow leaves. Check out this site on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] Palo Brea Trouble Message-ID: <33.14afe450.282b27c9@aol.com> Dave, Sounds as if the tree is being watered adequately now, but did the home owner start watering soon enough. You might also investigate how the tree was watered when it was planted. The Palo Brea doesn't have many problems so that is why I would look to adequate irrigation. Are you aware that we have the whole Master Gardener Manual on line which is a marvelous resource. There is a great chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html >From there you can pick up the index and browse through the whole book on line. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From cactusmaxson@compuserve.com Thu May 10 00:09:19 2001 From: cactusmaxson@compuserve.com (cactusmaxson@compuserve.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:09:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100009.f4A09Ib20265@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We planted corn in February and it is already tasseling at about 3 feet. What are we doing wrong? Also, often our lettuce tastes bitter, even when planted during winter, cooler months. Thank your for your help. From ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu Thu May 10 00:41:43 2001 From: ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu (ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:41:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100041.f4A0fhb24218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you tell me where I can obtain Uzbek melon seeds? A few years back, Smitty's markets carried the melons for two years running, but I haven't seen them since, and I suspect that our climate ought to be suitable for Central Asian crops. Many thanks for your help, Allen Meyer From vochopz@prodigy.net Thu May 10 01:14:05 2001 From: vochopz@prodigy.net (vochopz@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:14:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100114.f4A1E5b27586@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I own a yucca strata, is planted in a pot. There is some browning ocurring throughout the plant. It is easy to see if compared with the other yucca stratas next to it. Drainage is good, no pest have been seen, and some water is added every so often. Please help me with it, or call me at (602) 763-6807. I greatly appreciate your cooperation. PACO From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 13:33:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 06:33:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A couple oddities. References: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AFA98BE.15D1B922@qwest.net> Sherryl, When I've experienced this phenomenon before, also on aloes that looked like tigers [don't know, I often scrounge tossed out plants in the alleys], it didn't end up being a pup, just a few leaves that eventually became somewhat scraggly. I tossed the whole stalk out after bloom and the leaves never did establish themselves like pups at the base of the plant. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi all, > I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of > variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it > is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe > started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base > (mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this > mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it > since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 > small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. > > Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* > seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really > tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just > some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological > community. > > Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 > ===================================================== > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 13:40:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 06:40:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on aquatic plants References: <00d301c0d8ee$477f1220$1ec30e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3AFA9A41.D6D685BB@qwest.net> --------------3A544BA80BCC577B2BF8A19A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am partial to Sylvia DeVisme who has been in the business longer than even she cares to remember. She lives in the neighborhood behind the old Tower Plaza in East Phoenix, and her PN is 602/273-1805. Her business, the Lily Pond, is run out of her home [appts only] and she has been there so long the city grandfathered her in under the zoning laws.... Linda Guy, Master Gardener jkasko wrote: > We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland plants for our area > (Phoenix). We have plant names but don't have the particulars on > them. Does anyone know of any good resources (book titles, people, > etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, propagation, > etc.? Thanks for any info. joanne kasko --------------3A544BA80BCC577B2BF8A19A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am partial to Sylvia DeVisme who has been in the business longer than even she cares to remember. She lives in the neighborhood behind the old Tower Plaza in East Phoenix, and her PN is 602/273-1805. Her business, the Lily Pond, is run out of her home [appts only] and she has been there so long the city grandfathered her in under the zoning laws....

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener

jkasko wrote:

We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland plants for our area (Phoenix). We have plant names but don't have the particulars on them. Does anyone know of any good resources (book titles, people, etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, propagation, etc.? Thanks for any info. joanne kasko

--------------3A544BA80BCC577B2BF8A19A-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 14:03:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 07:03:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vegetable Gardening References: <200105060216.f462GCW26433@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFA9FA5.DD4C7AB0@qwest.net> When this question has appeared in the past, there have been replies from students of 'permaculture' who have tried out what you suggested, although they have placed layers of newspaper down first before bulding up the raised bed. I'm hoping that someone like that is still a member of this list server and replies directly to you. I cannot reply out of any personal experience, unfortunately. Interesting resources for you could be the Master Gardener Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ and the vegetable section of our publications list http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Most people spend a few months killing the lawn with a systemic like Roundup which needs to be done now while the grass is growing vigorously [cannot be done in the cooler winter months]. In my case, bless my husband, he actually dug out the top 10" of bermuda and soil and purchased a truckload of high grade topsoil, which I continue to amend with organic material twice a year, before each planting season [least ways that what I always intend to do!]. Linda Guy, Master Gardener choate@primnet.com wrote: > I would like to start a veg. garden. The spot that I have chosen is an established lawn area. The size of the garden I would like to start would be 6X8 area. My question is what is the best way to start? Would it be better to dig up the lawn area or could I build a 2ft high incloser and just simply put it over the lawn and not have a problem latter on with the grass growing up threw the 2ft thick layer of soil? will I always have a problem with the grass no mater what I do? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu May 10 15:03:09 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 08:03:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: brittlebush bugs References: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> <3AFA98BE.15D1B922@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AFAADAD.40836530@AuroraNow.org> Hi Linda et. al., I finally broke down and sprayed my brittlebush with a general garden insect spray a few days ago because a couple of them had several leaves totally ravaged and laced-out. It does seem to be controlling the problem although I still saw 1-2 bugs. I had sprayed one about a week ago and only saw one bug on it this morning. I'm not sure if its the same bug, but my mexican bush sage is being eaten too. Don't know what it is with bugs this year, especially on the normally resistant natives. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From mishelle@usscreen.com Thu May 10 18:03:15 2001 From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:03:15 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Corn and Pepper Plant Questions Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20010510105835.026cfbd0@usscreen.com> I have corn that I planted in late February. It is tasseling but the cobs are JUST starting to emerge. Is something going wrong or will it catch up? Also-My Jalapeno plants are flowering, but then the flowers drop off stem and all. Any ideas would be really appreciated. Everything is growing very well and I was glad to find this list. Thanks, Mishelle in Tempe From georgana@avon.net Thu May 10 18:25:11 2001 From: georgana@avon.net (georgana@avon.net) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:25:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105101825.f4AIPBb22576@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our whole yard has a grandular type dirt piles that measure about the size of a quarter and each pile has mounds of this grandular dirt each grandular is about the size of a pencil lead. We recently tilled the whole yard with compost/menure and re-seeded with Tall Fiscu grass, which is now about an inch high. We had this problem of the grandular dirt before this. We haven't seen any signs of worms, or any thing on the ground, like any other bugs. We were told by a friend, maybe there is a beetle that works at night that is doint the problem. I haven't seen anything, unless it is very, very small. The original yard has diacondra and it finally was eaten up and just the dirt was left. I hope you can give us some help with our problem. georgana@avon.net From dagreene-usa@foreverliving.com Thu May 10 18:32:48 2001 From: dagreene-usa@foreverliving.com (dagreene-usa@foreverliving.com) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:32:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105101832.f4AIWlb23764@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 1- I would like to know what types of pumpkin do best in the Valley as well as when should they be planted? 2- Should everybearing strawberries be allowed to send out runners, or should they be clipped or trained into pots to form new plants. From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Thu May 10 19:36:43 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:36:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] information on aquatic plants In-Reply-To: <00d301c0d8ee$477f1220$1ec30e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20010510193643.73855.qmail@web13007.mail.yahoo.com> Both Ortho and Sunset put out books on ponds. Both have listings with pictures of aquatic plants in them. The books should be in your library or to buy at Home Depot. --- jkasko wrote: > We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland > plants for our area (Phoenix). We have plant names > but don't have the particulars on them. Does anyone > know of any good resources (book titles, people, > etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, > propagation, etc.? > > Thanks for any info. > > joanne kasko > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com Thu May 10 19:38:04 2001 From: theoriginalcactusjack@yahoo.com (john peder) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 12:38:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] information on aquatic plants In-Reply-To: <00d301c0d8ee$477f1220$1ec30e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20010510193804.35650.qmail@web13002.mail.yahoo.com> Both Ortho and Sunset put out books on ponds. Both have listings with pictures of aquatic plants in them. The books should be in your library or to buy at Home Depot. --- jkasko wrote: > We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland > plants for our area (Phoenix). We have plant names > but don't have the particulars on them. Does anyone > know of any good resources (book titles, people, > etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, > propagation, etc.? > > Thanks for any info. > > joanne kasko > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From RSPaxson18@qwest.net Thu May 10 20:41:17 2001 From: RSPaxson18@qwest.net (RSPaxson18@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 13:41:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105102041.f4AKfHb17133@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have had Marigolds in the ground since November 00 and they have done great. Applied Miracle Grow periodically. Last three weeks I have noticed that the flowers are signicficantly smaller and are now yellow rather than gold. The leaves are healthy in terms of size but are somewhat yellow and some with holes but can not find any insects, etc. Dont know if to water more or less or prune or add some nitrogen or something else to the soil other than miracle grow. My African Daisies have all bloomed but no buds replenishing although the plant is growing and very healthy looking. Please advise. Thank you. From RkBetu@aol.com Thu May 10 21:13:49 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 17:13:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailanthus trees dying Message-ID: <10.cab04cd.282c5e8e@aol.com> Over 20 yrs ago, I transplanted a few ailanthus from the Cottonwood area where they do indeed sucker profusely.Some of mine do get the little green flowers, but none have ever produced seed pods. Could this be due to climate here? Rock From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:22:57 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:22:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Brittlebush bugs References: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> <3AFA98BE.15D1B922@qwest.net> <3AFAADAD.40836530@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AFB06B1.24CA98C3@qwest.net> Lace bugs are shown in the entomology chapter of the MG Manual http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/sap.html Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi Linda et. al., > > I finally broke down and sprayed my brittlebush with a general garden > insect spray a few days ago because a couple of them had several leaves > totally ravaged and laced-out. It does seem to be controlling the > problem although I still saw 1-2 bugs. I had sprayed one about a week > ago and only saw one bug on it this morning. I'm not sure if its the > same bug, but my mexican bush sage is being eaten too. Don't know what > it is with bugs this year, especially on the normally resistant natives. > -- > Sherryl Stalinski > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological > community. > Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 > ===================================================== > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu May 10 21:35:57 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:35:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] problem patterns References: <200105060216.f462GCW26433@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3AFA9FA5.DD4C7AB0@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3AFB09BD.70D8E2FF@AuroraNow.org> I have a theoretical question for the MGs. It seems like we've been reading a lot of similar problems in the past few months (tomatoes blooming but not setting fruit, corn tasseling to young, bugs on our roses and native flowers) and as I think about the weather (very wet winter, early 100* days) I can't help but wonder if its just a weird year? It seems like we went hot/cold/hot/cold several times over the past couple months (I remember over easter week, we had 3-4 days in the 90s, and one day in the 50s). Could the wet winter and temp swings be contributing to a lot of the problems some of us seem to be having this year? (More bugs, veggies misbehaving?). (By the way, I have to make a public apology to my local rabbits who *are* nibbling away my prickly pear and other "rabbit resistant" plants, but they were not the culprits in the trampling. I knew there was a sign on our road that said "Open Range" but I never took it seriously until I caught a young calf last week trapsing across my wash--and right through where the one Santa Rita had been demolished. My son almost ran into one pulling into our driveway last night. Not sure how to handle cows as landscape pests, though.) -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:31:41 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:31:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [AG] Golden Arborvitae Infestation References: <001d01c0d776$49f9e300$2c0b2aa2@bbs.scottsburg.com> Message-ID: <3AFB08BD.E0F0B617@qwest.net> --------------EE91231F44455EF3334EE14B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would first try spraying with the garden hose. If still there in a week, upgrade to the dish soap mix we often recommend for sap suckers, a management strategy that is described in our discussion on aphids. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm Next would be to use an insecticidal soap that most nurseries carry. Follow label's instructions. For identification, check out the chapter on 'bugs' in the online Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ I'm sorry, I don't know the growth habit of the plant and do not know why you experience different shapes. Are there different light exposures or watering sources? Linda choward wrote: > I have 6 golden arborvitaes & 2 of them are turning brown, when I put > a white piece of paper under them & shake them , there is hundreds of > tiny things crawling on the paper. What do you suggest I do for them? > Also I bought all 6 of them at one time, last april, one of them is > rounding off, the others are pointing, are there different shapes in > these? Thanks C. Howard --------------EE91231F44455EF3334EE14B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I would first try spraying with the garden hose. If still there in a week, upgrade to the dish soap mix we often recommend for sap suckers, a management strategy that is described in our discussion on aphids. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm

Next would be to use an insecticidal soap that most nurseries carry. Follow label's instructions.

For identification, check out the chapter on 'bugs' in the online Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/

I'm sorry, I don't know the growth habit of the plant and do not know why you experience different shapes. Are there different light exposures or watering sources?

Linda

choward wrote:

I have 6 golden arborvitaes & 2 of them are turning brown, when I put a white piece of paper under them & shake them , there is hundreds of tiny things crawling on the paper. What do you suggest I do for them? Also I bought all 6 of them at one time, last april, one of them is rounding off, the others are pointing, are there different shapes in these? Thanks C. Howard

--------------EE91231F44455EF3334EE14B-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:34:55 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:34:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Watering a saguaro References: <3AC4F1F9.411C6032@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <3AFB097F.234BC90@qwest.net> I don't personally own one so my advice is book-learnin! Check out our publications, one of which is online http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Desert We also have a chapter in the MG Manual dedicated to cactus http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/ Good luck to you, and thanks for the picture! Linda Vytas Jaudegis wrote: > I would like your opinion on an idea I have. Below is a picture of my saguaro in my front yard. > It is on a 1.5 ft tall mound surrounded by a 1 ft deep creekbed. > Can I place a 1GPH dripper in the base of the creekbed about 4-5 ft from the saguaro? > It would run 2 times/week providing 6gal/week. I think this would provide some water, but not too much. > OR - should I "flood" the creekbed around the saguaro with about 20 gal of water every 2 weeks? > The closest other water sources are15ft away on my acacia tree and 12ft on a sagebush.. > > I appreciate any information you can provide. You answered my question last year, but unfortunately the email was > deleted. Thanks again! VJ > > [Image] From jmontgomery@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:47:22 2001 From: jmontgomery@qwest.net (jmontgomery@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:47:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105102147.f4ALlMD29294@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two Phoenix date palms, a male and a female. Last year I got a huge crop of dates, but this year (and two years ago) the female produced nothing to fertilize. How can I even out the production? Why do I get dates only every other year? Oh and by the way are Queen Palm dates worth bagging (thinning and all the rest that is needed)? Thanks. From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:41:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:41:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapes References: <200104272131.f3RLVnu11861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFB0B02.772B318F@qwest.net> These are deciduous. For more information, get our publication on growing grapes at home at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm Good luck! Linda Guy Holsinger2000@yahoo.com wrote: > I have a Thompson seedless grapevine to plant. Where is the best location? (n,s,e,w) > Also, I have a south wall in my front yard which has two very large shade trees in front of it. There is shade on the wall most of the day. I would like to plant some vines to cover the plain wall. Can you recommend a vine that stays green all year, is not messy, and has flowers? I really like the Alice du Pont Mandevilla vine. Is this one I can plant? I think this is not a vine for Arizona, but for southern california instead. Why do they sell them here? Do they really do well in Phoenix? I have tried one once before, but it died. Thanks for any info you can send. Kim > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 21:37:09 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 14:37:09 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] 50 year old Xmas Cactus References: <200104182004.f3IK4Nl06992@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFB0A05.44D99B35@qwest.net> I don't own one so I hesitate to give advice for such a stately old plant. But since your question has been around quite some time without a reply, I'd like to suggest you call the hotline at the Desert Botanical Gardens, available M-F from 10 - 11:30am. 480-941-1225. Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener KCGlaze45@home.com wrote: > I have a Xmas Catus that is over 50 yrs. old, it was my Grandmother's and it's huge and beautiful, but I noticed that after if finished blooming there are some branches that are turning redish in color....wondering if it needs something while it's in it's growing stage?......kathy > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 10 22:32:43 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 22:32:43 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Digger bee? Message-ID: I am wondering if you might be describing digger bee nests. Key features are: tiny hole about 1/8 to 1/4 inch small pile of soil particles around the hole may be many scattered or clumped holes in an area Digger bees are solitary bees (no danger like the Africanized honey bee). They are important pollinators. I have heard of groups of these bees in an area, but never seen them. (they don't eat plants. Do you notice solitary bees in the area? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: georgana@avon.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 11:25:11 -0700 (MST) > >Our whole yard has a grandular type dirt piles that measure about the size >of a quarter and each pile has mounds of this grandular dirt each grandular >is about the size of a pencil lead. We recently tilled the whole yard with >compost/menure and re-seeded with Tall Fiscu grass, which is now about an >inch high. We had this problem of the grandular dirt before this. We >haven't seen any signs of worms, or any thing on the ground, like any other >bugs. We were told by a friend, maybe there is a beetle that works at night >that is doint the problem. I haven't seen anything, unless it is very, very >small. The original yard has diacondra and it finally was eaten up and just >the dirt was left. > >I hope you can give us some help with our problem. > >georgana@avon.net > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri May 11 01:53:19 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 18:53:19 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Texas Ebony References: <200104241744.f3OHieu22567@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFB460F.67BC379D@qwest.net> I don't know the answer to your question about the pods being edible, but found the following in a web search. http://www.bonsai-bci.com/species/txebony.html Linda Guy, MG phil.turner@amec.com wrote: > I have a mature Texas Ebony in my Phoenix front yard. It is producing huge quantities of seeds/nuts. The Javalina love these things and will spend hours under the tree rooting for them. Are they edible for people? It would make them easier to pick up if I knew they had a value to me, other than Javalina food. If edible, how can you use them? > > Thanks for any insight. > > Phil Turner > AMEC Inc. > Vice President > Infrastructure, Mesa, Arizona > Phone +1 480 648 5305 > Fax +1 480 830 3903 > phil.turner@amec.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri May 11 02:02:07 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:02:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf Pest ID References: <200105091622.f49GMAb22849@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFB481F.3BC450E6@qwest.net> I don't know what your problem is, and knowoing what is in your lawn is the most critical piece for management. But I can direct you to the turf pest section of the entomology chapter in our Master Gardener Manual. It's online at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/turf.html#turf Maybe a review of the photos and description will help you uncover your problem. Another thought is to contact the satellite office nearest to you and ask if others in your neighborhood are experiencing the same problem. [Right side of this page] http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/general/question.htm Linda Guy Master Gardener jcp5@mindspring.com wrote: > We have small hopping bugs by the hundreds in our grass lawn, they leave large brown areas in our lawn and then start in another spot on the Bermuda. The birds are loving them, but we don't. We don't want to use a pesticide that will harm either our pets or the birds. What should we do to eliminate this problem? > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Fri May 11 02:06:06 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 19:06:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Flower Care References: <200105102041.f4AKfHb17133@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFB490E.945E7407@qwest.net> Your flowers are doing what they normally do...they are annuals and do not last through both of our growing seasons. They are simply beginning to wind down. Enjoy them while you can. For more info check out our flower pubs at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Flowers Linda Guy, MG RSPaxson18@qwest.net wrote: > I have had Marigolds in the ground since November 00 and they have done great. Applied Miracle Grow periodically. Last three weeks I have noticed that the flowers are signicficantly smaller and are now yellow rather than gold. The leaves are healthy in terms of size but are somewhat yellow and some with holes but can not find any insects, etc. Dont know if to water more or less or prune or add some nitrogen or something else to the soil other than miracle grow. My African Daisies have all bloomed but no buds replenishing although the plant is growing and very healthy looking. Please advise. Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From clydic@goodnet.com Fri May 11 04:57:49 2001 From: clydic@goodnet.com (Carol Lydic) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 21:57:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sick Cacti Message-ID: I have a friend whose Madagascar Palm toppled the other day. It appears to be rotten at the base (very dry, crusty, brown in color; inside looked rotten but dry, blackish in color). Too much water? Can it be cut off and rerooted? She has a cerreus that appears to have the same problem (in it's own pot) but hasn't yet toppled. Her soil medium appeared to be regular potting soil. Don't they need more of a gravel base? I could research these, but am thinking there are some experts out there who can lend a hand. She is located in very North Scottsdale. These plants are very large; the palm is nearly 2 feet tall and the cerreus is 3-4 feet tall; both in large pots on her patio, receiving lots of southern exposure. Ideas? I was trained in the wrong county to be on top of this one. Thx. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 11 18:00:19 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 18:00:19 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Australian plants Message-ID: Elizabeth, Try this site http://www.anbg.gov.au/anbg/ (Australian National Botanic Gardens) go to the bottom of the page and click on SEARCH then enter vine and look at some of the possibilities. Linda Drew >From: BETTOWN@aol.com >To: drew_linda@hotmail.com >Subject: Honeysuckle vine >Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 19:55:25 EDT > >Hi Linda, > >A few days ago I received from you, 2 possible names for a vine that I am >looking for. I have searched both of them: >Common name Woodbine was not it when llooking at it in the gardening >encyclopedia. >The other one Kings Mantle I could not find at all with that name or >Thunbergia erecta. > >I will continue to search & let you know but I know this is growing at >DixlettaGardens and the owner did say she thought it was called Kinetta and >is local to Australia. > >Thanks for your help. > >Elizabeth Townley > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri May 11 19:24:29 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:24:29 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornithogalum Message-ID: I just bought a lovely thing at Lowes. Ornithogalum, Orange Star. The Western Garden book has a section on this plant but doesn't describe this one. The label says partial shade and the book says full sun. Also the descriptions of the various varieties don't fit. It has clusters of 1 in orange flowers on a 10 inch or so stalk and leaves that look like tulips only narrower. Where is my best shot at its survival? Can it stay in a pot? B From socky3850@aol.com Fri May 11 20:55:26 2001 From: socky3850@aol.com (socky3850@aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:55:26 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105112055.f4BKtQD29108@Ag.Arizona.Edu> On some of the cacti in my yard, there are small white, cottony objects. This is the first year that these have appeared on my plants. I'm assumming that these are not something that is desireable to have on a cactus. I've been cleaning them off with a hard spray from a hose but this also damages the cactus. Can you tell me what these are and how to control them? From southpawaz@home.com Fri May 11 21:38:21 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 14:38:21 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Scale on Cactus References: <200105112055.f4BKtQD29108@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFC5BCD.E3611DD2@home.com> The white stuff is a protective material put out by an insect called cochineal scale. The only treatment I have ever seen recommended is to do what you are doing, spray it off with water. The scale can weaken the cactus in the long term if left alone. If the problem you are having is that you are knocking off new pads with the hard water spray, it probably wouldn't hurt to wait until those pads have grown stronger joints before spraying off the scale. socky3850@aol.com wrote: > > On some of the cacti in my yard, there are small white, cottony objects. This is the first year that these have appeared on my plants. I'm assumming that these are not something that is desireable to have on a cactus. I've been cleaning them off with a hard spray from a hose but this also damages the cactus. Can you tell me what these are and how to control them? > -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 11 21:49:54 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:49:54 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornithogalum Message-ID: There are several orange-blooming species: maculturn, durium, fergasoniae, and splendens. Also,there are now three new cultivars of star-of-Bethlehem (Ornithogalum). Workers at USDA-ARS have developed a yellow, gold, and fiery orange flowering star-of- Bethlehem named 'Chesapeake Blaze', 'Sunburst', and 'Sunset'. What is unique with this new bulb crop is that they don't need a cold treatment to make them flower. Under cool conditions, the plants flowers throughout the year. Plants of all three cultivars are being distributed by New World Plants in Escondido, CA and Bay City Flower Company in Half Moon Bay, CA (adapted from Ag. Research, December 1998) I would guess these would do best in pots of rich garden soil, regular water, and partial shade. (durium, for example, isn't listed for our desert climates). Howver, this is just the information I've dug up -- I don't have actual experience with these bulbs. If you can discover the actual species, that would help. Linda Drew Master GArdener >From: Beverlyfz@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ornithogalum >Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:24:29 EDT > >I just bought a lovely thing at Lowes. Ornithogalum, Orange Star. The >Western >Garden book has a section on this plant but doesn't describe this one. The >label says partial shade and the book says full sun. Also the descriptions >of the various varieties don't fit. It has clusters of 1 in orange flowers >on >a 10 inch or so stalk and leaves that look like tulips only narrower. Where >is my best shot at its survival? Can it stay in a pot? B >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Fri May 11 21:55:44 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 21:55:44 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cochineal Scale on Cacti Message-ID: Here is a copy of an earlier response: The white fluff is generated by the cochineal insect which is pretty harmless in most cases. You can usually knock the bugs back with a strong spray with water. I would wait until just before dusk to spray it so that you don't have a bunch of water droplets sitting on the cactus pads acting like little magnifying glasses under the sun. For very advanced cases,some recommend resorting to Malathion. Definitely try spraying with water first. Interesting factoid about cochineal...Some folks used crushed cochineal as a source of red fabric dye. Pick a little bit of the scale off of one of your plants and crush it between your fingers and see what a lovely rich red it produces. You have a webbing that is produced by a minute critter called a scale. Read up about what this is and how to manage it at the following link to the College of Agriculture. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azdailystar/fuzz_prickly_pear.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: socky3850@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 13:55:26 -0700 (MST) > >On some of the cacti in my yard, there are small white, cottony objects. >This is the first year that these have appeared on my plants. I'm >assumming that these are not something that is desireable to have on a >cactus. I've been cleaning them off with a hard spray from a hose but this >also damages the cactus. Can you tell me what these are and how to control >them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From envconnections@yahoo.com Fri May 11 22:15:52 2001 From: envconnections@yahoo.com (linda levitt) Date: Fri, 11 May 2001 15:15:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] weed identification Message-ID: <20010511221552.28762.qmail@web1902.mail.yahoo.com> Is there a good source with photos to identify weeds? I have huge wildflower gardens in my yard and at schools that i hestitate to pull anything out of. This year I waited until it was too late. Henbit overwhelmed one of my beds and Lately huge yellow flowering plants are taking over and crowding out my still beautiful flower beds. I'd like to be able to identify potential problem plants early. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 12 01:41:46 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 01:41:46 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID Message-ID: >From an earlier posting: >From: "olin" >To: "Linda Drew" , >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:44:05 -0700 > >I like "Weeds of the West' too - it has nice photographs. But Kittie >Parker's "An Illustrated Guide to >Arizona Weeds" on line at >http://www.uapress.arizona.edu/online.bks/weeds/titlweed.htm >is still my favorite. It may be nearly 30 years old but the weeds are >still >the same. Maybe I'm partial to it because I have the printed version which >we used as a textbook at GCC a few decades ago. -Olin > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Linda Drew" >To: >Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2001 7:04 PM >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID > > > > I like this book -- it is just for the west plus it > > has good color photos. > > > > Linda Drew > > Master Gardener > > > > WEEDS OF THE WEST > > Published by Western Society of Weed Science and > > The Cooperative Extension Service of The Western States. > > > > This is an extensive, easy-to-use weed identification guide to the weeds >of > > the Western U.S. It contains in its 650 pages over 900 color photos of >weeds > > in various stages of growth. Also descriptions, habitats and >characteristics > > of each plant are given. Softcover. > > 650 pages. $31.95 > > > > > > >From: "Linda Guy" > > >To: "Arid_gardener" > > >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Weed ID > > >Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 17:42:56 -0700 > > > > > >Does anyone have a particularly good/favorite book for identifying our > > >local [Phoenix] area weeds? I saw a reference work in the UA listing > > >that's a few decades old... > > > > > >Linda Guy > > >Master Gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From oriley@wescap.com Sat May 12 15:50:38 2001 From: oriley@wescap.com (oriley@wescap.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 08:50:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105121550.f4CFocD29660@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a yellow bird of paradise that has never been trimmed and is approximately 8 feet tall. Since it grows more like a tree than a shrub, I would like to know the proper way to trim and shape. Some of the branches are top heavy. From MeriGood@AOL.com Sat May 12 16:52:18 2001 From: MeriGood@AOL.com (MeriGood@AOL.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 09:52:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105121652.f4CGqID05512@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Could you possibly tell me what is eating one of two side-by-side bougainvillea? I can't see any insect(s) but the leaves are chewed away on just the one plant. Thank you. From outridge@qwest.net Sat May 12 17:03:05 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:03:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Gummosis Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010512100301.00a38040@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> Hi Rod, I was curious what the difference is between this instance of Gummosis and the one we discussed with my grapefruit. Is mine considered hopeless because of the peeling bark? You had mentioned mine would "probably continue to decline until it is completely dead." --Degan At 10:29 PM 5/5/01 -0400, you wrote: >What you are seeing on your grapefruit tree is called Gummosis. Unfortunately >there is no treatment available. The tree may apear unhealthy for a time but >seldom die. > >Good luck. >Rod McKusick >Master Gardener > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From outridge@qwest.net Sat May 12 17:03:12 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:03:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Digger bee? Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010512100308.00a392a0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> At 10:32 PM 5/10/01 +0000, you wrote: >I am wondering if you might be describing >digger bee nests. This is great...I just noticed a lot of bees at the park, scratching in the sandbox like little dogs, and was wondering what they could be. Are they trying to dig permanent nests and is it likely they would succeed in a sandbox? I was wondering if I should keep my daughter away from that area if they were building a home. From outridge@qwest.net Sat May 12 17:07:24 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:07:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling suckers Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010512100313.00a452f0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> I have a willow acacia that has grown to about 30 feet in just 4 years...I privately suspect it tapped down into some forgotten well, it has grown so fast! The problem I have is that it has a proliferation of suckers coming up from the roots. The darn things come up in the walkway, the rock cover, and create bushes within 10 feet of the trunk. An arborer who came out told me I just have to keep cutting them, but that just makes it worse. At Mesquite Valley Growers they seemed to think it was too much work to put down landscaping cloth "because it will degrade and need to be replaced every year". The same arborer said the tree is a little shallow, so I wondered if I could cut back the suckers, put on some sealer, then put down cloth or trash bags and just put more fill around the base of the tree. Will that just send the suckers out further or will it help get them under control? Its really becoming a constant battle... From Jimmyz1944@aol.com Sat May 12 17:48:57 2001 From: Jimmyz1944@aol.com (Jimmyz1944@aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:48:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105121748.f4CHmvD10994@Ag.Arizona.Edu> is it ok to water the leaves of my tomatoe plants From rjbirtch1@home.com Sat May 12 15:38:09 2001 From: rjbirtch1@home.com (Ronald Birtch) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 11:38:09 -0400 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilla Care Message-ID: <000a01c0daf9$8cc97a20$c9850118@msnv1.occa.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0DAD8.04BC1500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I planted three bougainvillas on a slope in Mission Viejo three years = ago. They seem to be barely surviving. I have watered and fertilized = them to death......is this the problem....what do I do to get them = going. Other bougainvillas in my yard are doing great. Thanks, Ron Birtch ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0DAD8.04BC1500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I planted three bougainvillas on a slope in Mission = Viejo=20 three years ago. They seem to be barely surviving. I have = watered=20 and fertilized them to death......is this the problem....what do I do to = get=20 them going. Other bougainvillas in my yard are doing = great.

Thanks, Ron Birtch

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01C0DAD8.04BC1500-- From jkasko" Message-ID: <000f01c0db1d$d549ec20$2ac20e3f@oemcomputer> Are they half circles? Very clean cuts? If they are, these are cutter bees gathering material for nesting. Does not hurt the plant at all. My bougainvilleas are always are prime source this time of year. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2001 9:52 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Could you possibly tell me what is eating one of two side-by-side bougainvillea? I can't see any insect(s) but the leaves are chewed away on just the one plant. > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From sjbass@qwest.net Sat May 12 21:35:39 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 14:35:39 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilla Care References: <000a01c0daf9$8cc97a20$c9850118@msnv1.occa.home.com> Message-ID: <3AFDACAB.D893B4E0@qwest.net> --------------5E13CA9AF1499E7DE312784D Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ronald: Bougainvilleas tend to thrive on neglect. They prefer full sun and do much better, once established with little water and fertilizer. Sue Bass Master Gardener > I planted three bougainvillas on a slope in Mission Viejo three years > ago. They seem to be barely surviving. I have watered and fertilized > them to death......is this the problem....what do I do to get them > going. Other bougainvillas in my yard are doing great. Thanks, Ron > Birtch --------------5E13CA9AF1499E7DE312784D Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Ronald:
Bougainvilleas tend to thrive on neglect. They prefer full sun and do much better, once established with little water and fertilizer.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

I planted three bougainvillas on a slope in Mission Viejo three years ago. They seem to be barely surviving. I have watered and fertilized them to death......is this the problem....what do I do to get them going. Other bougainvillas in my yard are doing great. Thanks, Ron Birtch

--------------5E13CA9AF1499E7DE312784D-- From Jakeandthehotshots@MSN.com Sat May 12 21:55:05 2001 From: Jakeandthehotshots@MSN.com (Jakeandthehotshots@MSN.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 14:55:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105122155.f4CLt4D05863@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have an established Wisteria vine/tree. The new growth and flowers have wilted, dried up. The watering pattern is the same in years past and the torch boug. is doing fine. Does this plant need a special kind of fertilizer. I put the fertilizer Osmocote recently along with all the other plants. They are all fine. What is going on with the Wisteria. How can I save it. It is the talk of the neighborhood or was. Thank You. From rume96@juno.com Sat May 12 23:55:55 2001 From: rume96@juno.com (rume96@juno.com) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 16:55:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105122355.f4CNttD23346@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When pruning a prickly-pear cactus, do you need to seal where you have trimmed off the "branch"? If so, how and/or what product should I use? Thank-you. From southpawaz@home.com Sun May 13 00:18:31 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 17:18:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105122355.f4CNttD23346@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFDD2D7.BD0BDDB4@home.com> The wound on the cactus will heal very quickly. No sealer is necessary, but to be on the safe side, you might want to dust the wound with sulfur, particularly on the pad(s) you cut off if you are planning to plant them. Wait a week or so, and they should be ready to stick in the ground. rume96@juno.com wrote: > > When pruning a prickly-pear cactus, do you need to seal where you have trimmed off the "branch"? If so, how and/or what product should I use? Thank-you. > -- Bobby Alexander southpawaz@home.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Sun May 13 18:14:34 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:14:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: yellow bird of paradise References: <200105121550.f4CFocD29660@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFECF0A.E3E3AAA6@AuroraNow.org> Hi, I'm speaking from experience, not as a master gardener, but I pruned mine down in February--cutting about 2 feet off the tallest top branches, down to about 6'. It has encouraged new branches lower down, and as of now (May) it is even taller than before I pruned it back (about 10' now). But the top is bushier with more branches and flowers and doesn't seem nearly as top heavy as it was last year. I've read these are supposed to be 8-10' shrubs, but I've seen them 15' and taller as standards around town, so it must have to do with training. I'm not sure if now would be a good time to prune, and they'll be blooming until fall anyway. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@AuroraNow.org Sun May 13 18:18:41 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 11:18:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: pruning prickly pear References: <200105122355.f4CNttD23346@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AFED001.579D7326@AuroraNow.org> No, you don't need to seal where you've detached pads, they callous over on their own in about a week. Let your pad cuttings callous over about 5-7 days before putting them in the ground if you plan to start new plants. Then resist the urge to water for at least 2 weeks, and then water the cuttings only very lightly and infrequently (2-3 weeks) until the new cacti are established. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 14 02:31:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 02:31:58 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling suckers Message-ID: It does sound like your willow acacia has found a good water source. Suckering may be a response to stress of some kind. Recently, I had a sweet acacia begin to sucker heavily and finally found the trunk was partially covered with dirt. I dug out soil around the trunk down to the crown (the place where trunk turns into root). The tree is growing better now and not suckering. The advice from Mesquite Valley sounds O.K. to me -- I would not put down landscape cloth. I would definitely NOT use sealer and plastic and more soil. Dig around the base of the tree. You should see roots 1 or 2 inches below the ground surface. If they are deeper than that, you will need to remove some soil so dirt isn't in contact with the trunk. I agree with your arborist to keep cutting back the suckers. Why not contact him/her again for advice and also check the planting depth as described above? Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Degan Outridge >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling suckers >Date: Sat, 12 May 2001 10:07:24 -0700 > >I have a willow acacia that has grown to about 30 feet in just 4 years...I >privately suspect it tapped down into some forgotten well, it has grown so >fast! The problem I have is that it has a proliferation of suckers coming >up from the roots. The darn things come up in the walkway, the rock cover, >and create bushes within 10 feet of the trunk. An arborer who came out >told me I just have to keep cutting them, but that just makes it worse. At >Mesquite Valley Growers they seemed to think it was too much work to put >down landscaping cloth "because it will degrade and need to be replaced >every year". The same arborer said the tree is a little shallow, so I >wondered if I could cut back the suckers, put on some sealer, then put down >cloth or trash bags and just put more fill around the base of the >tree. Will that just send the suckers out further or will it help get them >under control? > >Its really becoming a constant battle... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From dbbll@worldnet.att.net Mon May 14 04:10:35 2001 From: dbbll@worldnet.att.net (dbbll@worldnet.att.net) Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 21:10:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105140410.f4E4AZD19581@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have bugs/flies swarming all over my weed-infested Chandler back yard. The swimming pool is loaded with them and within 5 minutes, my legs are covered in the darned things. I had to tape all door and window frames to keep them from getting into the house. Any info would be greatly appreciated. KC From honeydo2@prodigy.net Mon May 14 11:57:02 2001 From: honeydo2@prodigy.net (honeydo2@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 04:57:02 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105141157.f4EBv2D12867@Ag.Arizona.Edu> A few years ago i set out two bing cherry trees also some plum and apricots only one cherry and one lived.This spring the cherry and apricot had pink blumes and put on fruit but the fruits were like a plum but had a beautiful sweet smell and the most beautiful taste.The cherry had a small split pit.Where can i find out what is going on? Lewis Horne 1179 JB Horne rd Hattiesburg,Mississippi 39401 Ph# 601-544-2283 From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 14 14:32:34 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:32:34 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] bugs in weedy yard Message-ID: Sounds like the weeds may be providing an ideal place for these bugs to live. Try removing the weeds -- this may solve the bug problem. Can you identify what kind of bugs they are? If you can take some to your nearest Cooperative Extension Office they can help identify them. Knowing exactly what they are will determine what you need to do to control them. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dbbll@worldnet.att.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 13 May 2001 21:10:35 -0700 (MST) > >I have bugs/flies swarming all over my weed-infested Chandler back yard. >The swimming pool is loaded with them and within 5 minutes, my legs are >covered in the darned things. I had to tape all door and window frames to >keep them from getting into the house. Any info would be greatly >appreciated. >KC > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 14 14:43:13 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:43:13 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] fruit trees in Mississippi Message-ID: Hello, Lewis The fruit sounds wonderful! Call your local Cooperative Extension Office in Mississippi for information. (It should be in the County pages of the phone book). Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: honeydo2@prodigy.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 04:57:02 -0700 (MST) > >A few years ago i set out two bing cherry trees also some plum and apricots >only one cherry and one lived.This spring the cherry and apricot had pink >blumes and put on fruit but the fruits were like a plum but had a beautiful >sweet smell and the most beautiful taste.The cherry had a small split >pit.Where can i find out what is going on? Lewis Horne 1179 JB Horne rd >Hattiesburg,Mississippi 39401 Ph# 601-544-2283 > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From outridge@qwest.net Mon May 14 17:02:04 2001 From: outridge@qwest.net (Degan Outridge) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 10:02:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Overwater or underwater? Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010514095548.00a438d0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> Hi, it looks as though all of my desert plants are suffering from leaf burn or water problems. The salvia greggii, mesquite, and lantana are all turning brown or even black on the edges of the leaves. My mother is convinced it is the lacewings and aphids we're seeing a lot of this year, but I'm wondering if too much water would be the culprit. Everything is on a drip system, and the shrubs get three hours at 1gal/hour, 3x/wk. The mesquite have 4 emitters and get three hours 2x/wk. The gardenia are just angry at me. One of them is flourishing, and the two on either side are small and yellowing. They each have two emitters, running I think at 2gal/hr along with the other shrubs. Is the best way to guauge watering effectiveness to stick a spike in the ground? How far down should it be wet for desert shrubs? For gardenias? For trees? I've always erred for less water, but the landscapers changed all the settings when the plants started yellowing, telling me they were parched. These settings aren't working out too well but I'm not sure whether to move to more water or less. Thanks. Degan From JABUCK1@USWEST.NET Mon May 14 19:04:56 2001 From: JABUCK1@USWEST.NET (JABUCK1@USWEST.NET) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 12:04:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105141904.f4EJ4uD25664@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am having a hard time getting my Potato Bush to bloom. The blooms are far and fe between. Can you please tell me what I can use to make it flourish and have more than 1-2 blooms at a time. Thank you. From mishelle@usscreen.com Mon May 14 19:30:58 2001 From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 12:30:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper Plants not setting fruit? Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20010514122940.026e5b00@usscreen.com> Hello, My Jalapeno plants are flowering but not setting any fruit. I'm getting frustrated as everything else looks great. What am I doing wrong? Thanks, Mishelle in Tempe From ilse.m.allen@us.andersen.com Mon May 14 21:42:28 2001 From: ilse.m.allen@us.andersen.com (ilse.m.allen@us.andersen.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 14:42:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105142142.f4ELgSD23926@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have just spent my first year in Arizona and have many questions about gardening here. But my biggest question at this moment is when and how to prune a lemon tree. My yard has a lemon tree, somewhere between 7 and 9 years old, which is growing wildly but produces VERY little fruit. We assumed that the previous owners did not feed the tree. However, since last May it has been fertilized on schedule by my gardener, but I had sparse flowering, and see very little fruit forming. Also, it is shaped more like a bush, and when I had asked my gardener last year about cutting out that low growth he advised me against it because then the tree would need painting. What do you recommend? What time of year can/should I prune, what do I need to consider when pruning, and will that increase pruduction. And am I correct that if it is possible to still prune this year, that I will have even less fruit production this year? Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. From southpawaz@home.com Mon May 14 22:08:00 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:08:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105142142.f4ELgSD23926@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B005740.FC07E502@home.com> Ilse, This is from George Brookbank's book entitled Desert Landscaping: "Citrus flowers are produced on two year old wood at the ends of branches, so any cutting back automatically reduces fruit production; You can't help snipping off flower production if you trim. Citrus should be allowed to grow naturally, even in the early stages. A three year old tree sends out vigorous vertical shoots that, because of their untidiness, invite cutting off. Don't do it! Let them grow longer and they eventually will fall over; along the bend of the arch, buds will break out and thicken up the tree's profile with new foliage." ilse.m.allen@us.andersen.com wrote: > > I have just spent my first year in Arizona and have many questions about gardening here. But my biggest question at this moment is when and how to prune a lemon tree. My yard has a lemon tree, somewhere between 7 and 9 years old, which is growing wildly but produces VERY little fruit. We assumed that the previous owners did not feed the tree. However, since last May it has been fertilized on schedule by my gardener, but I had sparse flowering, and see very little fruit forming. Also, it is shaped more like a bush, and when I had asked my gardener last year about cutting out that low growth he advised me against it because then the tree would need painting. What do you recommend? What time of year can/should I prune, what do I need to consider when pruning, and will that increase pruduction. And am I correct that if it is possible to still prune this year, that I will have even less fruit production this year? Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener -- Bobby southpawaz@home.com N*G*G, W*W From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Mon May 14 22:15:43 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:15:43 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105142142.f4ELgSD23926@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B00590F.B0D2927B@email.sps.mot.com> The link below will take you to a very good article on growing citrus. It sounds to me like the gardener is giving you the right advise, and that he knows what he is talking about: http://www.azfamily.com/homecook/garden/archives/20010307.html I grow all my citrus as shrubs myself, and they really didn't start getting good fruit till they were about 8-10 years old. ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 154 Rose Bushes Planted! 86 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! ilse.m.allen@us.andersen.com wrote: > I have just spent my first year in Arizona and have many questions about gardening here. But my biggest question at this moment is when and how to prune a lemon tree. My yard has a lemon tree, somewhere between 7 and 9 years old, which is growing wildly but produces VERY little fruit. We assumed that the previous owners did not feed the tree. However, since last May it has been fertilized on schedule by my gardener, but I had sparse flowering, and see very little fruit forming. Also, it is shaped more like a bush, and when I had asked my gardener last year about cutting out that low growth he advised me against it because then the tree would need painting. What do you recommend? What time of year can/should I prune, what do I need to consider when pruning, and will that increase pruduction. And am I correct that if it is possible to still prune this year, that I will have even less fruit production this year? Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cdavia@amug.org Mon May 14 22:31:54 2001 From: cdavia@amug.org (cdavia@amug.org) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 15:31:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105142231.f4EMVsD03132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you compost in Phoenix if you don't have much brown matrial to throw into the mix? Or do you need to buy a bail of hay to compensate for no leaves? Thank You for your response. From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Mon May 14 23:20:33 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:20:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105142320.f4ENKXD11722@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 2 Questions: First, I have a small evergreen tree planted this past January. The needles are turning brown from inside the branch out. This is occurring the length of the tree--only 2 feet high. The only thing I have noticed is a puff ball looking thing that when squeezed collapses with a brown powdery substance contained within. Also there appears to be a stem to the puff ball that is attached to the limb. I have found several of these. Is this an insect that is feeding off the tree? and what do I need to do? Second, My hibiscus plants are exhibiting holes in the leaves but no eviedence of bugs. What is the most common insect that could be causing this that I need to address. The leaves, other than for the holes, look very healthy. Thank you for your help. Ron From rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net Mon May 14 23:22:13 2001 From: rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net (rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:22:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105142322.f4ENMDD12068@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 2 Questions: First, I have a small evergreen tree planted this past January. The needles are turning brown from inside the branch out. This is occurring the length of the tree--only 2 feet high. The only thing I have noticed is a puff ball looking thing that when squeezed collapses with a brown powdery substance contained within. Also there appears to be a stem to the puff ball that is attached to the limb. I have found several of these. Is this an insect that is feeding off the tree? and what do I need to do? Second, My hibiscus plants are exhibiting holes in the leaves but no eviedence of bugs. What is the most common insect that could be causing this that I need to address. The leaves, other than for the holes, look very healthy. Thank you for your help. Ron From s2@AuroraNow.org Mon May 14 23:36:51 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 16:36:51 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105142320.f4ENKXD11722@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B006C13.E6EF205F@AuroraNow.org> > My hibiscus plants > are exhibiting holes in the leaves but no eviedence of bugs. What is the most common insect that could be > causing this that I need to address. Most hibiscus are susceptible to aphids. Any ol' garden bug spray will do. Be sure to spray both leaf tops and bottoms, repeat once a week until the problem is gone and repeat if you wash off the insecticide spray while watering. I've actually caught ordinary ants chewing small holes on mine, same bug spray did the trick. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 14 23:31:13 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:31:13 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bougainvilla Care Message-ID: Bougainvillea require very little water and fertilizer once they are established. When planting bougainvillea one must take a great deal of care not to disturb the roots. I've had bougainvillea whose roots were disturbed when planted that never did grow, so could this have happened in your case. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 14 23:31:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:31:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering trees and shrubs Message-ID: Degan, You are giving your plants three to four times too much water. If you watered your shrubs with 3 gallons of water once every week to 10 days it would be ample in the hottest part of the summer. AGAIN please check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 14 23:31:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 19:31:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning trees and shrubs Message-ID: <37.15018cac.2831c4c6@aol.com> There is excellent info on pruning trees and shrubs at this site: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Landlightdesign@aol.com Tue May 15 00:20:43 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:20:43 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #109 - 18 msgs Message-ID: --part1_bd.e7b606c.2831d05b_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi KC Do they bite? Sounds like the Black Gnats we are having in north Scottsdale. We normally see the gnats with the monsoon rains but with the wet spring it looks like we get to enjoy them early this year. Clearing the weeds will help, but I think we need some Hot Dry weather to kill off the adult flies. They frequently drive people away and make landscapers more insane. Killer bees are more fun. MG Paul --part1_bd.e7b606c.2831d05b_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi KC
Do they bite?
Sounds like the Black Gnats we are having in north Scottsdale.
We normally see the gnats with the monsoon rains but with the wet spring it
looks like we get to enjoy them early this year. Clearing the weeds will
help, but I think we need some Hot Dry weather to kill off the adult flies.
They frequently drive people away and make landscapers more insane.
Killer bees are more fun.

MG Paul --part1_bd.e7b606c.2831d05b_boundary-- From Landlightdesign@aol.com Tue May 15 00:37:42 2001 From: Landlightdesign@aol.com (Landlightdesign@aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 20:37:42 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #109 - 18 msgs Message-ID: <27.15635579.2831d456@aol.com> --part1_27.15635579.2831d456_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can add straw or hay to the pile to increase the carbon. A better way might be to find a neighbor with some brown leafs you can add to help reach the optimum 2-3:1 (carbon brown/nitrogen green) relationship. MG Paul --part1_27.15635579.2831d456_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit You can add straw or hay to the pile to increase the carbon. A better way
might be to find a neighbor with some brown leafs you can add to help reach
the optimum 2-3:1 (carbon brown/nitrogen green) relationship.

MG Paul
--part1_27.15635579.2831d456_boundary-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 15 16:36:58 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 09:36:58 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Leaf Holes References: <200105142320.f4ENKXD11722@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B015B2A.F2021E4B@qwest.net> One of the more common explanations for leaf holes is the cutter bee, whose damage is usually cosmetic and which is actually a beneficial from the standpoint of pollination. We have a chapter on entomology in the MG Manual and the page with cutter bees is http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/landscape.html#foliage If you have sap-sucking aphids as Sherryl described, you are apt to find damage of a different sort. Plus, you would definitely see them. They are more apt to be on tender new growth, and they leave a residue that is sticky [honeydew]. New leaves look curled and a bit mangled as they unfold after aphid damage. As the weather heats up, they will disappear. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/entomology/sap.html#sap They are also discussed on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/aphid.htm Ants tend to like other insects, aphid honeydew, and flower nectar. Controls are discussed on our website at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/ant.htm Linda Guy, MG rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net wrote: > 2 Questions: First, I have a small evergreen tree planted this past January. The needles are turning brown from inside the branch out. This is occurring the length of the tree--only 2 feet high. The only thing I have noticed is a puff ball looking thing that when squeezed collapses with a brown powdery substance contained within. Also there appears to be a stem to the puff ball that is attached to the limb. I have found several of these. Is this an insect that is feeding off the tree? and what do I need to do? Second, My hibiscus plants are exhibiting holes in the leaves but no eviedence of bugs. What is the most common insect that could be causing this that I need to address. The leaves, other than for the holes, look very healthy. Thank you for your help. Ron > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 15 16:39:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 09:39:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Evergreen Stress References: <200105142320.f4ENKXD11722@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B015BD5.FE1C0197@qwest.net> I'm inclined to think that your tree is stressed for water. Although yours may not be an aleppo, you might like to see the discussion on one common physiological response to water problems at this place in our website. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/cultural/aleppo.htm Linda Guy, MG rs.paxson@worldnet.att.net wrote: > 2 Questions: First, I have a small evergreen tree planted this past January. The needles are turning brown from inside the branch out. This is occurring the length of the tree--only 2 feet high. The only thing I have noticed is a puff ball looking thing that when squeezed collapses with a brown powdery substance contained within. Also there appears to be a stem to the puff ball that is attached to the limb. I have found several of these. Is this an insect that is feeding off the tree? and what do I need to do? Second, My hibiscus plants are exhibiting holes in the leaves but no eviedence of bugs. What is the most common insect that could be causing this that I need to address. The leaves, other than for the holes, look very healthy. Thank you for your help. Ron > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 15 16:44:22 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 09:44:22 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Compost References: <200105142231.f4EMVsD03132@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B015CE6.D5585F91@qwest.net> In the soil chapter of our master gardener manual, there is a compost trouble shooting section that might give you some more ideas [sawdust, straw]. I'd advise against hay because of the potential for seeds. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/soils/compost.html Linda Guy, MG cdavia@amug.org wrote: > Can you compost in Phoenix if you don't have much brown matrial to throw into the mix? Or do you need to buy a bail of hay to compensate for no leaves? > > Thank You for your response. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 15 16:51:10 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 09:51:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling suckers References: <5.0.2.1.0.20010512100313.00a452f0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B015E7E.F3486967@qwest.net> It is my personal opinion that landscape cloth is not a substantial enough barrier for tree suckering. Acacias, in general, are noted for trunk suckering when the tree is heavily pruned. Pruning advice for those with a weeping habit [a. pendula/weeping acacia or a. salicina/willow wattle] is to prune minimally to thin interior dead or crossing branches to allow the wind to flow through. Could it be that you are pruning the tree itself so excessively that you are generating this suckering reaction? I have to say that I've only experienced the suckering on the trunk not the roots. Linda Guy, MG Degan Outridge wrote: > I have a willow acacia that has grown to about 30 feet in just 4 years...I > privately suspect it tapped down into some forgotten well, it has grown so > fast! The problem I have is that it has a proliferation of suckers coming > up from the roots. The darn things come up in the walkway, the rock cover, > and create bushes within 10 feet of the trunk. An arborer who came out > told me I just have to keep cutting them, but that just makes it worse. At > Mesquite Valley Growers they seemed to think it was too much work to put > down landscaping cloth "because it will degrade and need to be replaced > every year". The same arborer said the tree is a little shallow, so I > wondered if I could cut back the suckers, put on some sealer, then put down > cloth or trash bags and just put more fill around the base of the > tree. Will that just send the suckers out further or will it help get them > under control? > > Its really becoming a constant battle... > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Tue May 15 17:01:56 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 10:01:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Caelsalpinia Mexicana/Yellow Bird References: <200105121550.f4CFocD29660@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B016104.693D6E89@qwest.net> With a growth habit of 8-10 feet high and 8-12 feet wide, your yellow bird of paradise is perhaps not quite at its full potential. Flowering is from March to about October, but slows up in the summer and the recommended time to do heavy pruning/shaping is just after that spring flowering cycle. Since you already have it formed as a tree, and I assume you want to keep this shape, your pruning will be to take out dead and crossing branches and long pieces that make the canopy irregularly formed. An excellent reference guide to add to your library would be Johnson's Pruning, Planting & Care for handling the pruning needs of your native plants. A good resource on the how-tos of pruning is the chapter of our online MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html Linda Guy, MG oriley@wescap.com wrote: > I have a yellow bird of paradise that has never been trimmed and is approximately 8 feet tall. Since it grows more like a tree than a shrub, I would like to know the proper way to trim and shape. Some of the branches are top heavy. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sherryhall@newmexico.com Tue May 15 18:51:37 2001 From: sherryhall@newmexico.com (Sherry Hall) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 12:51:37 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] west facing wall Message-ID: <3B017AB9.664FA0D7@newmexico.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------EAC3E5C26EF12D5D0133497F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Any suggestions for plantings near a west-facing adobe wall? The reflected heat is intense. I'm in zone 5 at 7000 feet. Thanks! --------------EAC3E5C26EF12D5D0133497F Content-Type: text/x-vcard; charset=us-ascii; name="sherryhall.vcf" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: Card for Sherry Hall Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="sherryhall.vcf" begin:vcard n:Hall;Sherry tel;fax:505/466-1283 x-mozilla-html:FALSE adr:;;2 Avalon Place;Santa Fe;NM;87505; version:2.1 email;internet:sherryhall@newmexico.com end:vcard --------------EAC3E5C26EF12D5D0133497F-- From cstephens@infinet-is.com Tue May 15 21:27:13 2001 From: cstephens@infinet-is.com (cstephens@infinet-is.com) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 14:27:13 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105152127.f4FLRDD23204@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am interested in finding a variety of sweet corn which would be good here (Phx) for late summer-early fall planting. I'd like to try to time it to have corn at Thanksging. From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue May 15 22:11:18 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 15:11:18 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page In-Reply-To: <200105152127.f4FLRDD23204@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010515150927.0186d650@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> I don't have a specific variety, but Native Seeds/Search in Tucson has many types of locally-suited corn which do well in Phx. http://www.nativeseeds.org/ jk At 02:27 PM 5/15/01 -0700, cstephens@infinet-is.com wrote: >I am interested in finding a variety of sweet corn which would be good >here (Phx) for late summer-early fall planting. I'd like to try to time it >to have corn at Thanksging. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From southpawaz@home.com Tue May 15 22:52:06 2001 From: southpawaz@home.com (Bobby) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 15:52:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Controlling suckers References: <5.0.2.1.0.20010512100313.00a452f0@pop.tcsn.qwest.net> <3B015E7E.F3486967@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B01B316.D0F85C00@home.com> I have several of the weeping acacias on the golf course where I work. I have one in turf, and one that receives overspray from a turf area which both send up lots of suckers from the roots. Several others receive no supplemental water and do not sucker. As for the suckers, it may not be the best practice, but I have been pulling them like weeds rather than cutting them, with no ill effect on the main tree. Linda Guy wrote: > > It is my personal opinion that landscape cloth is not a substantial enough > barrier for tree suckering. Acacias, in general, are noted for trunk suckering > when the tree is heavily pruned. Pruning advice for those with a weeping habit > [a. pendula/weeping acacia or a. salicina/willow wattle] is to prune minimally > to thin interior dead or crossing branches to allow the wind to flow through. > Could it be that you are pruning the tree itself so excessively that you are > generating this suckering reaction? I have to say that I've only experienced > the suckering on the trunk not the roots. > > Linda Guy, MG > > Degan Outridge wrote: > > > I have a willow acacia that has grown to about 30 feet in just 4 years...I > > privately suspect it tapped down into some forgotten well, it has grown so > > fast! The problem I have is that it has a proliferation of suckers coming > > up from the roots. The darn things come up in the walkway, the rock cover, > > and create bushes within 10 feet of the trunk. An arborer who came out > > told me I just have to keep cutting them, but that just makes it worse. At > > Mesquite Valley Growers they seemed to think it was too much work to put > > down landscaping cloth "because it will degrade and need to be replaced > > every year". The same arborer said the tree is a little shallow, so I > > wondered if I could cut back the suckers, put on some sealer, then put down > > cloth or trash bags and just put more fill around the base of the > > tree. Will that just send the suckers out further or will it help get them > > under control? > > > > Its really becoming a constant battle... > > -- Bobby Alexander southpawaz@home.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 15 23:25:54 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 16:25:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sweet Corn for Thanksgiving Day References: <4.2.2.20010515150927.0186d650@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <001401c0dd96$7ad3aee0$6152530c@j0r9501> Try any mid season sugar enhanced (se) variety. Kandy Korn is my favorite for fall. Plant after mid August but before Labor Day. -Olin At 02:27 PM 5/15/01 -0700, cstephens@infinet-is.com wrote: >I am interested in finding a variety of sweet corn which would be good >here (Phx) for late summer-early fall planting. I'd like to try to time it >to have corn at Thanksging. From Rodmcq6@aol.com Wed May 16 01:05:18 2001 From: Rodmcq6@aol.com (Rodmcq6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:05:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105160105.f4G15ID29861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Anyone know of a website that has photos of Arizona wild flowers. Thanks, Rod From brown_ro@aps.edu Wed May 16 01:28:58 2001 From: brown_ro@aps.edu (brown_ro@aps.edu) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 18:28:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105160128.f4G1SwD02344@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My raspberry plants thrive with constant new leafy growth. The blossoms are meager and do not produce fruit. Strawberries a plot over (same conditions) produce fruit. Can my plants be sterile? What should I do? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 16 04:30:28 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 21:30:28 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: photos of Arizona wild flowers. References: <200105160105.f4G15ID29861@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <000d01c0ddc0$f1a8ba40$c652530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Anyone know of a website that has photos of Arizona wild flowers. > Thanks, Rod http://community.webshots.com/album/10783877yXkgULzIIu http://www.wettig.org/WildFlwr_html/WildFlwr.html http://members.aol.com/thedesert2/pic50.htm From mhoppnewman@uwest.net Wed May 16 04:33:11 2001 From: mhoppnewman@uwest.net (mhoppnewman@uwest.net) Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 21:33:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105160433.f4G4XAD21726@Ag.Arizona.Edu> 2 rose questions: I have mildew on my rose leaves; what to do? On one of my rose bushes, the flowers last only a day or 2; is a nutrient missing? Thank you. From rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com Wed May 16 14:51:07 2001 From: rpcs30@email.sps.mot.com (Alan Zelhart) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 07:51:07 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105160433.f4G4XAD21726@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B0293DB.9BCCFD98@email.sps.mot.com> Powdery mildew is a widespread disease of roses. The disease is easily recognized by the white powdery appearance of infected leaves, twigs, and flower buds. Infected leaves may also appear distorted and fall from the plant. Powdery mildew is favored when rainfall is low or absent, night time temperatures are between 70 and 80, nighttime relative humidity is high, and daytime relative humidity is low. Mildew spores can spread easily by wind to nearby healthy plants. To control powdery mildew: Apply a labeled fungicide (many are available at garden centers) at the first sign of mildew. Follow label instructions for rates and timing. Adequately fertilize roses to maintain plant vigor, but avoid excess fertilization. Especially now that it is hot. I would use fertilizers on roses at half, even 1/4 strenght. With temperatures as high as they are the fertilizer can burn the roots. Always water the rose bush, fertilize, then water again! To discourage powdery mildew: Select powdery mildew resistant roses for planting. Do not crowd plants. Plant roses in full sunlight. Remove leaves that have powdery mildew on them as soon as you see them, and discard them immediately. Also pick up any leaves and debris around the rose bush. Some roses just have blooms that last only a day or two. That is their characteristic, especially now that it has heated up. They open quickly and loose there petals quickly. You will see many of your roses have smaller blooms, and fewer petals when the temperatures sore as well. Just do your best to keep your rose healthy. Remove as little foilage as possible through the summer. This keeps canes from getting sunburnt, wind burnt, and drying out. Your roses will thank you for it this fall! ----- Alan Chandler, Arizona Sunset Zone: 13 http://members.home.net/gizmoaz/~gizmoaz.htm Over 154 Rose Bushes Planted! 86 Different varieties! Never a dull moment!! mhoppnewman@uwest.net wrote: > 2 rose questions: > > I have mildew on my rose leaves; what to do? > > On one of my rose bushes, the flowers last only a day or 2; is a nutrient missing? > > Thank you. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Wed May 16 17:00:08 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:00:08 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] shade cloth Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010516095828.01ea7de0@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Earlier I asked what percentage blockage of shade cloth you all used/ Olin said he used 50% in Phoenix. Any others? Has anyone used a row cover for shade cloth? Can you just drape shade cloth on the tomato plants or do I need to do four stakes for wind circulation? jk From james.laub@med.va.gov Wed May 16 17:54:17 2001 From: james.laub@med.va.gov (james.laub@med.va.gov) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 10:54:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161754.f4GHsHD18255@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I pruned 5 mature native palo verdes in late February/early March that had never been pruned before. Now one of them does not look well. It appears paler, is not leafing well, and is seeping a white, foamy substance from many of the cuts. I treated all of the cuts with pruning spray, as I did for the other palo verdes I trimmed. Could you tell me what is wrong with this one and recommend treatment? Thank you very much! From gusnaz@worldnet.att.net Wed May 16 18:08:09 2001 From: gusnaz@worldnet.att.net (gusnaz@worldnet.att.net) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:08:09 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161808.f4GI89D21117@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 sago palms that I planted this spring in full sun, I live in Goodyear, they are on a drip system and getting water for 20 minutes a day. The edges of the fronds are beginning to turn yellow and there are yellow spots on the fronds also. My landscaping contractor told me that they were raised in full sun. Do you think they are getting too much water, or are they sunburnt? thanks for your help. The yellow spots were on the leaves when we planted them,and have just expanded. From www.saltou@qwest.net Wed May 16 18:40:46 2001 From: www.saltou@qwest.net (www.saltou@qwest.net) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:40:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161840.f4GIekD26775@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We are putting in planter beds for vegetables in our backyard. We are going to be using the split faced cement blocks that are 16 inches long and 8 inches wide and 8 inches deep. They will be 2 blocks high. My question is will I need to put down a cement base for them? I'm worried that when the monsoon season comes the ground will get soft and the blocks will sink. Do I need to cement them together or will they be alright to just leave as is? What are my options. Thanks! From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 16 18:46:05 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:46:05 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Irrigation of Sago Palms References: <200105161808.f4GI89D21117@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B02CAED.443421DF@qwest.net> I'd like to direct you to a past response in our archives on care of Sago Palms. Scroll down to the bottom of the archived information to see the section on irrigation practices. 20 minutes a day is too much. Your Sagos would be much happier with more infrequent waterings (every couple weeks in the summer) where the water is reaching a depth of 2ft to leach soil salts away from the roots. You can view this information at: http://ag.arizona.edu/hypermail/arid_gardener/3312.html Sue Bass Master Gardener snaz@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have 2 sago palms that I planted this spring in full sun, I live in Goodyear, they are on a drip system and getting water for 20 minutes a day. The edges of the fronds are beginning to turn yellow and there are yellow spots on the fronds also. My landscaping contractor told me that they were raised in full sun. Do you think they are getting too much water, or are they sunburnt? thanks for your help. The yellow spots were on the leaves when we planted them,and have just expanded. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From busy@w3az.net Wed May 16 18:47:39 2001 From: busy@w3az.net (busy@w3az.net) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:47:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161847.f4GIldD27820@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What do you think of dispersul for aeration? From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 16 18:49:03 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 11:49:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Sago Palms References: <200105161808.f4GI89D21117@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B02CB9F.D70AE6A3@qwest.net> I neglected to add that Sago Palms prefer part to full shade. Sue Bass gusnaz@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have 2 sago palms that I planted this spring in full sun, I live in Goodyear, they are on a drip system and getting water for 20 minutes a day. The edges of the fronds are beginning to turn yellow and there are yellow spots on the fronds also. My landscaping contractor told me that they were raised in full sun. Do you think they are getting too much water, or are they sunburnt? thanks for your help. The yellow spots were on the leaves when we planted them,and have just expanded. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed May 16 19:42:56 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 12:42:56 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105161840.f4GIekD26775@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B02D840.5AAE34DC@AuroraNow.org> I'm not a master gardener or a landscape architect, but we're also putting in a 2-block high planter and didn't even consider NOT putting down a footer. A concrete footer (about 1 foot deep and 16" wide for what you're doing) will do several things: it will help avoid the expanding soil problem (our desert sands expand with rain, compress when dry), avoid the erosion problems you mentioned, it will keep the rattlesnakes, gophers and other critters out of the bed as well. You could *try* to get away without mortar in between the blocks, but the weight of the soil inside the bed may also dislodge them. We picked up a book at Home Depot called Basic Masonry that follows you through, step by step and with pictures, how to build a simple block wall (and other basic cement/paving/masonry projects). I think it's part of the Sunset book series. have fun :-) -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From vgkelling@aol.com Wed May 16 19:42:16 2001 From: vgkelling@aol.com (vgkelling@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 12:42:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161942.f4GJgGD08261@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, We have some older Lantana plants which have become very pale. I have applied Muracid - which seems to work well on other older plants like Vinca - but so far no change. What to do? Thanks. From steve.sheard@motorola.com Wed May 16 19:49:16 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (steve.sheard@motorola.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 12:49:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105161949.f4GJnGD09548@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Gladioli bulbs. We planted 100+ bulbs in the spring and they are in full bloom. After we cut the flowers:- 1) How long do I leave the plant before I can cut it back? 2) Do I need to lift the bulbs or can I leave them in my bedding plant beds? 3) If I lift them - what is the best way to store them for next year? From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 16 19:49:06 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 12:49:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] [Fwd: sagos] Message-ID: <3B02D9B2.1C1065BB@qwest.net> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------154A6FF1DE9D46CF0A3A19F8 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am posting this question about moving Sago Palms for a more shady area with the hopes that one of you have more experience in this and can help Gus Nelson with his question. I responded to his first question, providing information from our publication on care of Sago Palms and noted that they prefer part to full shade, as specified in our publication on palms. Mr. Nelson's plants were installed in full sun by his landscaper. His question follows. I also provided him with the link to our publication on Plants for Poolside Landscapes. Can any of you provide him with good advice on whether to move his Sagos? Sue Bass --------------154A6FF1DE9D46CF0A3A19F8 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-Path: Delivered-To: sjbass@mail-phnx.uswest.net Received: (qmail 4362 invoked by uid 0); 16 May 2001 19:32:03 -0000 Received: from mail3.uswest.net (204.147.80.19) by phnxpop3.phnx.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2001 19:32:03 -0000 Received: (qmail 66271 invoked by uid 0); 16 May 2001 19:32:04 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net) (204.127.131.48) by mail2.uswest.net with SMTP; 16 May 2001 19:32:04 -0000 Received: from hpcustomer ([12.83.82.246]) by mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net (InterMail vM.4.01.03.16 201-229-121-116-20010115) with SMTP id <20010516193201.CCNP8745.mtiwmhc23.worldnet.att.net@hpcustomer> for ; Wed, 16 May 2001 19:32:01 +0000 Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 12:27:51 -0700 Message-ID: <001d01c0de3e$50e509a0$f652530c@hpcustomer> From: "Gus Nelson" To: sjbass@qwest.net Subject: sagos MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Hello Sue, Thanks for the kind advice. Would you just move them to a shade area of the yard? I paid 300 dollars for them and I don't want to lose them. I specifically asked my landscaper Poco landscaping if they would grow next to my pool. I have limitations on what I can plant here at estrella mountain ranch, no palms are allowed that can be seen by the neighbors. Thats why I picked the sagos. Can you think of something I could replace them with, if I move them? Again thanks for your help. Gus Nelson --------------154A6FF1DE9D46CF0A3A19F8-- From cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu Wed May 16 20:32:45 2001 From: cnoyes@Ag.Arizona.Edu (Carol Noyes) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 13:32:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010516132502.00aacee0@ag.arizona.edu> Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Is this true or is it a hoax? COCOA MULCH WHICH IS SOLD BY HOME DEPOT, FOREMANS GARDEN SUPPLY AND OTHER GARDEN SUPPLY STORES, CONTAINS A LETHAL INGREDIENT CALLED "THEOBROMINE" AND IS LETHAL TO DOGS AND CATS. IT SMELLS LIKE CHOCOLATE AND IT REALLY ATTRACTS DOGS AND THEY WILL INGEST THIS STUFF AND DIE. SEVERAL DEATHS HAVE ALREADY OCCUR ED IN THE LAST 2-3 WEEKS. Theobromine is one of the active ingredients in chocolate that is toxic. It, along with the caffeine in chocolate, is what causes the hyperactivity, seizures, cardiac arrhythmia, etc. Definitely something to worry about!! Carol Noyes Administrative Secretary Maricopa County Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 602-470-8092 (fax) Have a wonderful day!! ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~ From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 16 21:02:30 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:02:30 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010516132502.00aacee0@ag.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <3B02EAE6.387601D0@qwest.net> I sent an e-mail to the ICCO (International Cocoa Organization) asking this question. I'll let you know what I find out. Sue Bass Carol Noyes wrote: > Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Is this true or is it a hoax? > > COCOA MULCH WHICH IS SOLD BY HOME DEPOT, FOREMANS GARDEN SUPPLY AND OTHER > GARDEN SUPPLY STORES, CONTAINS A LETHAL INGREDIENT CALLED "THEOBROMINE" > AND IS LETHAL TO DOGS AND CATS. IT SMELLS LIKE CHOCOLATE AND IT REALLY > ATTRACTS DOGS AND THEY WILL INGEST THIS STUFF AND DIE. SEVERAL DEATHS HAVE > ALREADY OCCUR ED IN THE LAST 2-3 WEEKS. > > Theobromine is one of the active ingredients in chocolate that is toxic. > It, along with the caffeine in chocolate, is what causes the hyperactivity, > seizures, cardiac arrhythmia, etc. Definitely something to worry about!! > > Carol Noyes > Administrative Secretary > Maricopa County > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > 602-470-8092 (fax) > Have a wonderful day!! > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 16 21:12:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:12:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch Message-ID: Good idea, Sue! I suspect that someone has confused cocoa-bean (cacao, chocolate) with cocoa-nut (coconut). Cacao does contain theobromine; as far as I know coconut does not. The product sold at Home Depot is "coir" I believe, and it is the outer husk of the coconut palm fruit. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Sue Bass" >To: "Carol Noyes" >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch >Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:02:30 -0700 > >I sent an e-mail to the ICCO (International Cocoa Organization) asking this >question. I'll let you know what I find out. >Sue Bass >Carol Noyes wrote: > > > Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Is this true or is it a hoax? > > > > COCOA MULCH WHICH IS SOLD BY HOME DEPOT, FOREMANS GARDEN SUPPLY AND >OTHER > > GARDEN SUPPLY STORES, CONTAINS A LETHAL INGREDIENT CALLED "THEOBROMINE" > > AND IS LETHAL TO DOGS AND CATS. IT SMELLS LIKE CHOCOLATE AND IT REALLY > > ATTRACTS DOGS AND THEY WILL INGEST THIS STUFF AND DIE. SEVERAL DEATHS >HAVE > > ALREADY OCCUR ED IN THE LAST 2-3 WEEKS. > > > > Theobromine is one of the active ingredients in chocolate that is toxic. > > It, along with the caffeine in chocolate, is what causes the >hyperactivity, > > seizures, cardiac arrhythmia, etc. Definitely something to worry about!! > > > > Carol Noyes > > Administrative Secretary > > Maricopa County > > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > 602-470-8092 (fax) > > Have a wonderful day!! > > > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of >A > > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed May 16 22:24:24 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:24:24 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vacation Message-ID: <3B02FE18.7D130CF5@qwest.net> I'm gone from the arid gardener server for the next three weeks for some much needed vacation time. Home to the MD/DC/VA area where I grew up. Good luck to you all who continue to plug away at the questions. I'll resume 11 June. Linda From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 16 22:27:01 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:27:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch References: Message-ID: <3B02FEB5.76602951@qwest.net> Is the product at Home Depot "coir"? I don't know as I have not seen it. When I lived in Wisconsin, we used to get cocoa bean hulls from the Nestle Factory to use as a mulch around our gardens. Everyone in our town used it since it was so cheap coming right from the factory which was local. I don't remember ever hearing of anyone having a problem with it. (Pets eating it and becoming ill) A few times I have seen cocoa beans hulls in the valley in stores (I should say I smelled them first - that unmistakable chocolate scent!). Don't recall where I saw them. Sue Bass Linda Drew wrote: > Good idea, Sue! > > I suspect that someone has confused > cocoa-bean (cacao, chocolate) with > cocoa-nut (coconut). Cacao does > contain theobromine; as far as I > know coconut does not. > > The product sold at Home Depot is > "coir" I believe, and it is the outer > husk of the coconut palm fruit. > > Linda Drew > Master Gardener > > >From: "Sue Bass" > >To: "Carol Noyes" > >CC: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Cocoa Mulch > >Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 14:02:30 -0700 > > > >I sent an e-mail to the ICCO (International Cocoa Organization) asking this > >question. I'll let you know what I find out. > >Sue Bass > >Carol Noyes wrote: > > > > > Does anyone have any knowledge of this? Is this true or is it a hoax? > > > > > > COCOA MULCH WHICH IS SOLD BY HOME DEPOT, FOREMANS GARDEN SUPPLY AND > >OTHER > > > GARDEN SUPPLY STORES, CONTAINS A LETHAL INGREDIENT CALLED "THEOBROMINE" > > > AND IS LETHAL TO DOGS AND CATS. IT SMELLS LIKE CHOCOLATE AND IT REALLY > > > ATTRACTS DOGS AND THEY WILL INGEST THIS STUFF AND DIE. SEVERAL DEATHS > >HAVE > > > ALREADY OCCUR ED IN THE LAST 2-3 WEEKS. > > > > > > Theobromine is one of the active ingredients in chocolate that is toxic. > > > It, along with the caffeine in chocolate, is what causes the > >hyperactivity, > > > seizures, cardiac arrhythmia, etc. Definitely something to worry about!! > > > > > > Carol Noyes > > > Administrative Secretary > > > Maricopa County > > > Urban Horticulture/Master Gardener programs > > > > > > 602-470-8086 Ext. 308 > > > 602-470-8092 (fax) > > > Have a wonderful day!! > > > > > > ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of A ~U of > >A > > > ~U of A ~U of A ~ > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Arid_gardener mailing list > >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed May 16 22:31:42 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:31:42 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sago Palms References: <200105161808.f4GI89D21117@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B02FFCD.A6AE86CA@qwest.net> In addition to Sue's response, I have seen Mary Irish's reply to a similar question in the last year that sometimes when there is a change in the amount of sun, the existing leaves will take a hit, but as the plant acclimates to its location, the new leaves will emerge nicely but be a little bit tougher. However, this is not a plant I would ever recommend for full sun, although I'm sure someone out there is probably doing it just to prove me wrong! Linda Guy, MG gusnaz@worldnet.att.net wrote: > I have 2 sago palms that I planted this spring in full sun, I live in Goodyear, they are on a drip system and getting water for 20 minutes a day. The edges of the fronds are beginning to turn yellow and there are yellow spots on the fronds also. My landscaping contractor told me that they were raised in full sun. Do you think they are getting too much water, or are they sunburnt? thanks for your help. The yellow spots were on the leaves when we planted them,and have just expanded. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Wed May 16 22:34:49 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 15:34:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105161840.f4GIekD26775@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B030088.DBF4F313@qwest.net> Sherryl's got my vote, and my husband who is in the trades would agree. Sherryl's book idea is a good one, too. Linda Guy, MG www.saltou@qwest.net wrote: > We are putting in planter beds for vegetables > in our backyard. We are going to be using the > split faced cement blocks that are 16 inches > long and 8 inches wide and 8 inches deep. They > will be 2 blocks high. My question is will I > need to put down a cement base for them? I'm > worried that when the monsoon season comes the > ground will get soft and the blocks will sink. > Do I need to cement them together or will they > be alright to just leave as is? What are my > options. Thanks! > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From TMMills@aol.com Wed May 16 23:01:40 2001 From: TMMills@aol.com (TMMills@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:01:40 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #111 - 19 msgs Message-ID: TO THE PERSON WANTING TO BUILD A 16" HIGH CONCRETE BLOCK PLANTER: UNLESS YOU ARE IN A SWAMP YOU DO NOT NEED A FOOTING FOR AN 8" RETAINING WALL. DIG A TRENCH 8" DEEP AND 12" WIDE. LEVEL THE BOTTOM WITH SAND. SET ONE COURSE OF BEAM BLOCK. LEVELLING EACH SUCCESSIVE BLOCK WITH THE LAST ONE SET. PLACE A 1/2" REBAR IN THE GROOVE AND LAY THE NEXT COURSE WITH NO MORTAR. WHEN THE LAST COURSE IN IN PLACE, ADD A FINAL REBAR. THEN GO DOWN THE WALL EVERY 3 TO 4 FEET AND DRIVE A REBAR INTO THE GROUND 6" AND LEVEL WITH THE TOP COURSE. FINALLY, WET THE BLOCK THOROUGHLY AND FILL WITH DRY SACKCRETE. KEEP WET UNTIL CONCRETE HAS SET. WHEN ALL DONE, STUCCO THE WALL INSIDE AND TOP TO PRODUCE A PLEASING APPEARANCE. MY RAISED PLANTER WALLS ARE NOW 6 OR 7 YEARS OLD AND HAVE NOT EVEN CRACKED. WITH THIS METHOD YOU DON'T NEED AN EXPENSIVE CONCRETE DELIVERY, ETC. T. MILLS SCOTTSDALE. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 16 23:54:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:54:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lantana with pale leaves Message-ID: <9e.147778b9.28346d50@aol.com> If your lantana is chlorotic, that is with leaves that are pale green with the veins dark green, an application of chelated iron would help the Lantana. Over watering will also cause the problem. If you are watering more often than once per week than it is too often. Check out this site on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 16 23:55:46 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:55:46 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dispersul Message-ID: <86.aa5f7c8.28346d82@aol.com> Dispersul does double duty, it helps to lower the pH of our alkaline soil and it also helps to loosen the soil for better water penetration. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 16 23:55:48 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:55:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palo Verde leaking white sap Message-ID: <84.15f76fb5.28346d84@aol.com> The white substance you see coming from the tree where it was pruned is the tree's sap. The tree that is not looking healthy could have been over pruned. Good pruning practice dictates that not more than 15% of the tree should be removed at one time or more than 30% in one year. Also pruning cuts should never be sealed, it retards the healing process. The best thing that you can do for your tree is to make sure that it is watered adequately. Check out these sites for info on pruning and irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From jogenew@aol.com Thu May 17 02:30:16 2001 From: jogenew@aol.com (jogenew@aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:30:16 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105170230.f4H2UGD12961@Ag.Arizona.Edu> An article in todays paper (5/16) refers to FAN Palm pruning at an angle higher than the horizontal (like queen or date), FANS being more tolerant of a higher cut. A 45 degree angle is mentioned. 45 from what? Thanks From smcelroy@u.arizona.edu Thu May 17 02:31:33 2001 From: smcelroy@u.arizona.edu (Stephen A. McElroy) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 19:31:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dying Ironwood Tree? Message-ID: <3B033805.9FEAFF9C@u.arizona.edu> I planted a five gallon ironwood tree about five weeks ago and it appears to be dead. Per an Arizona Daily Star article (6/25/00) which listed a watering schedule during the planting transition period, I watered it every day for 2 weeks, then every other day for two weeks, every third day for 2 weeks, etc. But now I think that I have been overwatering it, so I have stopped. Currently, some leaves still remain but are light brown and appear dried out. The small trunk and branches also appear to be dried out. It is located in full sun on the south side of the house. Any suggestions regarding how I might revitalize the tree? Thanks, Stephen From sjbass@qwest.net Thu May 17 04:53:45 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 16 May 2001 21:53:45 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wisteria References: <200105122155.f4CLt4D05863@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B035959.4463D4A8@qwest.net> Today's AZ Republic section - the Good Life addressed wisteria in the gardening section on the back page. Diana Balazs stated that the wisteria will tolerate our desert heat if well irrigated, but it doesn't particularly care for our alkaline soil. She further states that the trick is to water it deeply to leach out the salts. Also to add an acidifier to the soil (Muracid is one). Wisteria need a spot that gets ample afternoon shade. It also got quite hot this year quite early. Sue Bass Jakeandthehotshots@MSN.com wrote: > I have an established Wisteria vine/tree. The new growth and flowers have wilted, dried up. The watering pattern is the same in years past and the torch boug. is doing fine. Does this plant need a special kind of fertilizer. I put the fertilizer Osmocote recently along with all the other plants. They are all fine. What is going on with the Wisteria. How can I save it. It is the talk of the neighborhood or was. > Thank You. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From djhillis@qwest.net Thu May 17 17:19:01 2001 From: djhillis@qwest.net (djhillis@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 10:19:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105171719.f4HHJ1D20978@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My 2 ash trees have perfectly round holes in some of their leaves. What is causing this, and what should I do, if anything? Thanks. From debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com Thu May 17 19:18:47 2001 From: debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com (debbie.compitello@bestwestern.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 12:18:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105171918.f4HJIlD12235@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Our Condominiums are having an Oleander problem. They are attacking our plumbing with the roots wrapping around the pipes. this is due to lack of care. They are 12'to 15' tall and falling over and carpenter bees are eating the wood. Is there any way to take care of this problem? From peter.c.lott.bhn3@statefarm.com Thu May 17 22:57:17 2001 From: peter.c.lott.bhn3@statefarm.com (Peter C Lott) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 17:57:17 -0500 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Native trees Message-ID: <2547EF3B6071D311A0C6009027AA5BA807F413D7@NSBRBZH.statefarm.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --------------InterScan_NT_MIME_Boundary Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----_=_NextPart_001_01C0DF24.B88478C0" ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DF24.B88478C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I'm interested in starting some small native trees (Pallo Verde, Pallo Brea, Mesquite) but have lawn around house. Can I start these trees in the lawn and eventually convert to zeriscape in the yard? Will the lawn watering help or hinder their growth? Peter Lott Sunland CAP Sect. Mgr 480-293-7201 text page - mailto:6028210789@mobile.att.net mailto:peter.c.lott.bhn3@statefarm.com ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DF24.B88478C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Native trees

I'm interested in starting some small = native trees (Pallo Verde, Pallo Brea, Mesquite) but have lawn around = house. Can I start these trees in the lawn and eventually convert = to zeriscape in the yard? Will the lawn watering help or hinder = their growth?

Peter Lott =
Sunland CAP Sect. Mgr
480-293-7201
text page - mailto:6028210789@mobile.att.n= et
mailto:peter.c.lott.bhn3@statefarm.com

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0DF24.B88478C0-- --------------InterScan_NT_MIME_Boundary-- From sjbass@qwest.net Thu May 17 23:02:54 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 16:02:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Holes in leaves - possible leaf cutter bee References: <200105171719.f4HHJ1D20978@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B04589D.4030D14B@qwest.net> Check out the following page by the University of Colorado. http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05576.html Very good pictures of leaf cutter bees as well as what leaves of plants look like that have been visited by them. Also very good information on this insect. They are excellent pollinators and the trees are not harmed by their activity. I believe this is what you are seeing on your ash tree leaves. Sue Bass Master Gardener djhillis@qwest.net wrote: > My 2 ash trees have perfectly round holes in some of their leaves. What is causing this, and what should I do, if anything? Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From cchare@qwest.net Thu May 17 23:22:11 2001 From: cchare@qwest.net (cchare@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 16:22:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105172322.f4HNMBD22896@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What time of year should ocatillas be planted? Is it too late now (mid May)? Are there any special requirements they have for healthy growing? This is to replace a very large saguaro which fell last summer. From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 18 00:29:57 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:29:57 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Palm trees, pruning Message-ID: I refer you to U of A Cooperative Extension bulletin AZ1021 " Arizona Landscape Palms" which states that palms should not be pruned above the horizontal. This bulletin is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/az1021.pdf Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 18 00:29:56 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:29:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Native trees Message-ID: <37.1528ff7f.2835c704@aol.com> Peter, The desert trees that you mentioned can be grown in a turf setting provided you periodically deep water them to encourage the roots to grow deeper and to flush the salts that are left in the root zone by shallow watering the turf. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 18 00:29:58 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 20:29:58 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Dying Ironwood Tree? Message-ID: <21.bda6f6c.2835c706@aol.com> Stephen, Could you have watered your tree with softened water which is salty enough to kill the tree? Was the tree watered adequately when planted? You certainly watered the tree often enough, perhaps too often. If you gave the tree enough water to keep it in a saturated condition the tree would die. Is there caliche under your tree? Did you check the planting hole before you planted for adequate drainage? Check out the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Arborculture, section on tree planting for detailed info at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From ejwrobel@yahoo.com Fri May 18 15:27:48 2001 From: ejwrobel@yahoo.com (Jay Wrobel) Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:27:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus help Message-ID: <20010518152748.70952.qmail@web11005.mail.yahoo.com> Hello I find your email on a Google search and I hope you may be able to help. I have a pole cactus that is about 3' tall and probably 2-3" across. It is a pot that is about 7" high and 6" wide. it is the same pot it has been in for years (probably 6 or more). I live in Illinois and the cactus is always been indoors. Recently I noticed the top of the cactus is turning dark green and getting mushy. The darkness seems like it may be spreading down the cactus. I do keep the cactus dry and avoid overwatering. Any ideas on how I can stop the rot or disease? Thanks in advance, Jay __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From cpadian@ci.scottsdale.az.us Fri May 18 16:43:53 2001 From: cpadian@ci.scottsdale.az.us (cpadian@ci.scottsdale.az.us) Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 09:43:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105181643.f4IGhrD13901@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We live in Central Phoenix and irrigate with flood irrigation. We have lots of mature trees, as do our neighbors, so the back yard is well shaded. I'd like to plant more shrubs and groundcovers, but am not sure what will work with this type of watering and shade. The Texas Sage did not work well. From aarthur8@qwest.net Sat May 19 04:22:23 2001 From: aarthur8@qwest.net (aarthur8@qwest.net) Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:22:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105190422.f4J4MND18547@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a chitalpa tree. We have no idea how to trim/cut back this tree. Can you provide us some information. From sjbass@qwest.net Sat May 19 17:44:57 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 10:44:57 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ocotillo care References: <200105172322.f4HNMBD22896@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B06B119.98DC73D9@qwest.net> I'd like to refer you to the following archived response concerning ocotillo care. Please go to: http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006642.html Here you will find a past response by Linda Guy and Mary Irish. Excellent information. Sue Bass Master Gardener cchare@qwest.net wrote: > What time of year should ocatillas be planted? Is it too late now (mid May)? Are there any > special requirements they have for healthy > growing? This is to replace a very large > saguaro which fell last summer. > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat May 19 22:10:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 18:10:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning trees Message-ID: Please check out the section in the Master Gardener Manual on pruning at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/pruning.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Cdixon3164@cs.com Sat May 19 22:56:55 2001 From: Cdixon3164@cs.com (Cdixon3164@cs.com) Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 15:56:55 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105192256.f4JMutD02693@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have burmuda grass all over our yard, but since some of our trees have got so big and produce so much shade the grass under them has died. We would like to know what variety should do best to replant in those spots. Those are our only problem areas. Thank You, Connie Dixon From bryanklaver@powersurfr.com Sun May 20 02:37:46 2001 From: bryanklaver@powersurfr.com (bryanklaver@powersurfr.com) Date: Sat, 19 May 2001 19:37:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105200237.f4K2bkD17079@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I recently purchased some hanging baskets of fushia and impatiens from the local nursery. after having them for approximately 2 weeks they are looking quite bad. The flowers have mostly fallen off and the ones that are left on the impatiens are brown and wilted as are some of the leaves. The fushia was in full bloom when I purchased it but now has very little growth. The exposure is north and the average temperature has been about 6-10 celsius at night and between 15-20 during the day . the air is quite dry and it has been very windy lately. I am keeping the compost moist and using the same pots that they came in. Is this normal or is there a factor involved that I need to know about in order to keep these flowers beautiful throughout the summer. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun May 20 14:15:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 07:15:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Took Your Advice - Looks Great References: Message-ID: <3B07D185.57AC68CB@qwest.net> As I am leaving o vacation, I am posting your note to the arid gardener list server with the hopes that one of my colleagues will assist you. As to ammonium sulphate, since this does not get applied in the wild, and most resources on native plants recommend against the time, effort and cost to amend soil that will revert to its constituent parts in a short time anyway. These plants are accustomed to living with a little..... Someone else will need to address the diazinon question. But here is the UAs recommended course of treatment, so it appears you are on track. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/t-tips/bugs/agave-wv.htm Linda SundanceY2K@aol.com wrote: > It took a lot of muscle but if managed to created another bern using existing > soil for a large Agave American. It's about 2 feet high and has a trench > about 4 inches deep. The base is approximately 10-12 feet in circumference. > Thanks to you, it really look great and I'll send you a photo when I develop > the film. > > According to the "Desert Landscaping" book by George Brookbank, I applied > ammonium sulphate and diazinon granules a Palo Verde for grub to prevent > and/or maybe wipe out grub. And I was also going to treat my agave with > liquid diazinon before the snout nosed weevil strikes. I can understand the > application of ammonium sulfate occasionally to improve the root structure > but is annual treatment of w/Diazinon really necessary for large (apparently > healthy) trees and for the Agave. > > I'm mainly interested in a natural desert landscape but I really like and > would like to the enrichment of different varieties of agave. Am I being > overall cautious and what do I do after the ban on Diazinon is effective? > > As a member of DBG I receive their magazine and list of courses. > Unfortunately, I won't be able to take the six week course until next spring. > So until then, I will keep reading and experimenting. > > BTW I've decided to truck in some soil and rock. However, I'll let the sun > and heat work on it during the summer before I use it this fall. > > Almost forgot. Do you recommend using ammonium sulphate around desert plants? > > Thanks again for you recommendations and I hope this message finds you > well............ > > From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun May 20 14:16:33 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 07:16:33 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Unidentified flower References: <000001c0e0cf$60bb17a0$2e365bd1@together.net> Message-ID: <3B07D1C1.B811FAA2@qwest.net> --------------538F9AA27A7908AAC25E3434 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm heading out on vacation and via copy, will post your question to the arid gardener membership to see if someone can help you in my absence. There is a flower called firewheel or blanketflower [gaillardia pulchella]. Mexican hat is a large plant and wouldn't be considered phlox-y looking. I'm hoping that one of my colleagues will direct you to a website with photos of wildflowers. In the meantime, try this one out http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm Linda Scott Perry wrote: > Dear Linda--Ran across your name in a google search using Fountain > Hills AZ flowers as the search criteria. We took a picture some years > back, phlox-y looking plant, red flowers, my wife has a vague memory > it might have been called Mexican Fire something-or-other. Now we're > preparing a framed set of photos of desert scenes for a graduating > college student, and we'd like to be able to identify the flower for > her. Does my primitive description and my wife's vague memory trigger > any identification thoughts for you? If so, we'd be grateful.Scott > Perry --------------538F9AA27A7908AAC25E3434 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I'm heading out on vacation and via copy, will post your question to the arid gardener membership to see if someone can help you in my absence. There is a flower called firewheel or blanketflower [gaillardia pulchella]. Mexican hat is a large plant and wouldn't be considered phlox-y looking. I'm hoping that one of my colleagues will direct you to a website with photos of wildflowers. In the meantime, try this one out http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm

Linda

Scott Perry wrote:

Dear Linda--Ran across your name in a google search using Fountain Hills AZ flowers as the search criteria. We took a picture some years back, phlox-y looking plant, red flowers, my wife has a vague memory it might have been called Mexican Fire something-or-other. Now we're preparing a framed set of photos of desert scenes for a graduating college student, and we'd like to be able to identify the flower for her. Does my primitive description and my wife's vague memory trigger any identification thoughts for you? If so, we'd be grateful.Scott Perry

--------------538F9AA27A7908AAC25E3434-- From lindaguy@qwest.net Sun May 20 14:26:01 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 07:26:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pruning Caelsalpinia Mexicana/Yellow Bird References: <200105121550.f4CFocD29660@Ag.Arizona.Edu> <3B016104.693D6E89@qwest.net> <3B01DD4D.D627BF59@wescap.com> Message-ID: <3B07D3F9.D82A0374@qwest.net> Kathleen, The tree form is not the natural shape of this plant, so perhaps it is the previous owners that trained the growth in this fashion. If you want it to revert to a shrub, you could try letting trunk growth go in the next few growing seasons. As to the other newer plant, I don't think you missed the pruning period at all, which is recommended for June in Johnson's book. To maintain a bush form, he recommends removing lanky branches to control the size and create more flowering wood. Heavy pruning next month, to 4-6' above ground after the spring flowering slows, will clean up irregular growth and encourage fresh regrowth. Pruning advice is in our MG Manual at http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html I'm going on vacation for a few weeks. Direct any additional questions to my colleagues on the arid gardener server. Linda Guy, MG Kathleen Preble wrote: > Linda: > > Thank you for the information. One comment though...the yellow bird of paradise is in the shape of a tree because I've never pruned it. I have one that is just a year in the ground. If I were to cut that one back after the spring, which > I just missed, would it not grow as tall but just become fuller. How far back is it safe to cut. > > Kathleen Preble > > Linda Guy wrote: > > > With a growth habit of 8-10 feet high and 8-12 feet wide, your yellow bird of paradise is perhaps not quite at its full potential. Flowering is from March to about October, but slows up in the summer and the recommended time to do heavy > > pruning/shaping is just after that spring flowering cycle. Since you already have it formed as a tree, and I assume you want to keep this shape, your pruning will be to take out dead and crossing branches and long pieces that make the > > canopy irregularly formed. > > > > An excellent reference guide to add to your library would be Johnson's Pruning, Planting & Care for handling the pruning needs of your native plants. A good resource on the how-tos of pruning is the chapter of our online MG Manual at > > http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/pruning/index.html > > > > Linda Guy, MG > > > > oriley@wescap.com wrote: > > > > > I have a yellow bird of paradise that has never been trimmed and is approximately 8 feet tall. Since it grows more like a tree than a shrub, I would like to know the proper way to trim and shape. Some of the branches are top heavy. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From starlene@uswest.net Sun May 20 16:29:35 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:29:35 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mexican Hat or Firewheel flower was Unidentified flower References: <000001c0e0cf$60bb17a0$2e365bd1@together.net> <3B07D1C1.B811FAA2@qwest.net> Message-ID: <006901c0e14a$0f7306c0$75c8e13f@uswest.net> Hi all, I have recently joined this list, and am completely thrilled with it. I have spoken with Master Gardeners at the Cooperative Extension services in Phoenix on and off for the past few years, and know what a wealth of information they possess. Now to have this incredible asset at my fingertips, fantastic! Eventually I'll get around to posting some of my questions, but many of them have already been answered by searching the archives and previous posts (it sure would be nice if the webmaster could put in the subject line for the web site question page so we don't have to weed through all those Questions from Home-Hort WWW page) and many of the recent posts. I'm delurking today, because someone on this list recently suggested the webshots.com site as a source for wildflowers. You can also search this site, and I put in the words Mexican Hat to see what would come up. Interestingly, there was one photo of a flower that is called "Mexican Hat" and it looks like what I'd call a firewheel! It is red in the middle in a perfect circle and then yellow along the last half inch of the flower. More than likely the person who shot the flower on webshots misidentified it, but perhaps Scott could view the picture and confirm whether it is the one he is referring to, and then Linda or another Master Gardener can let us know the true identification of that flower. It can be seen here: http://community.webshots.com/photo/8978214/10652210BTYFBpXR cv Starlene Stewart, Phoenix AZ www.geocities.com/conscioustar/garden.htm mailto:starlene@qwest.net From retiredplc@aol.com Sun May 20 16:10:12 2001 From: retiredplc@aol.com (retiredplc@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:10:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105201610.f4KGACD11715@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Bottle trees are 'messy'(drops a lot of leaves). What makes this tree appear to be more 'messy' than most? I thought that most trees drop their leaves once/year. That maybe the difference is that bottle trees do it slowly vs. other trees that do it over a shorter time. 1. Is a bottle tree 'really' a more 'dirty' tree than others (in the Phoenix Valley) and why? 2. Is there documentation that talks to this? Why my question? There are many bottle trees in our neighborhood and people what to replace them with another variety. Putting aside the expenses involved, would we gain anything (relative to the mess)? Would very appreciate your response - thank you! Paul From mmayer@robsoncom.net Sun May 20 17:36:27 2001 From: mmayer@robsoncom.net (mmayer@robsoncom.net) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:36:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105201736.f4KHaRD17410@Ag.Arizona.Edu> we have purchased two cactus plants. Can you tell me anything about them. They are 1. pinecone cactus native to Bolivia and 2. golden torch cactus, native to Mexico. Thanks From sjbass@qwest.net Sun May 20 22:08:34 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 15:08:34 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Unidentified flower References: <000001c0e0cf$60bb17a0$2e365bd1@together.net> <3B07D1C1.B811FAA2@qwest.net> Message-ID: <3B084062.F886FF48@qwest.net> --------------3B413DE58798388FAAA0007E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.wfnirvana.com/prairie/gailpulc.html The above link will take you to a photo of Gaillardia pulchella. Common name Blanketflower, Indian Blanket, and Firewheel. See if this looks like the photo you are trying to identify. Sue Bass Master Gardener Linda Guy wrote: > I'm heading out on vacation and via copy, will post your question to > the arid gardener membership to see if someone can help you in my > absence. There is a flower called firewheel or blanketflower > [gaillardia pulchella]. Mexican hat is a large plant and wouldn't be > considered phlox-y looking. I'm hoping that one of my colleagues will > direct you to a website with photos of wildflowers. In the meantime, > try this one out > http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm > > Linda > > Scott Perry wrote: > >> Dear Linda--Ran across your name in a google search using Fountain >> Hills AZ flowers as the search criteria. We took a picture some >> years back, phlox-y looking plant, red flowers, my wife has a vague >> memory it might have been called Mexican Fire something-or-other. >> Now we're preparing a framed set of photos of desert scenes for a >> graduating college student, and we'd like to be able to identify the >> flower for her. Does my primitive description and my wife's vague >> memory trigger any identification thoughts for you? If so, we'd be >> grateful.Scott Perry > --------------3B413DE58798388FAAA0007E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit http://www.wfnirvana.com/prairie/gailpulc.html
The above link will take you to a photo of Gaillardia pulchella. Common name Blanketflower, Indian Blanket, and Firewheel. See if this looks like the photo you are trying to identify.

Sue Bass
Master Gardener

Linda Guy wrote:

I'm heading out on vacation and via copy, will post your question to the arid gardener membership to see if someone can help you in my absence. There is a flower called firewheel or blanketflower [gaillardia pulchella]. Mexican hat is a large plant and wouldn't be considered phlox-y looking. I'm hoping that one of my colleagues will direct you to a website with photos of wildflowers. In the meantime, try this one out http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/plants/plants-a.htm
Linda
Scott Perry wrote:
Dear Linda--Ran across your name in a google search using Fountain Hills AZ flowers as the search criteria. We took a picture some years back, phlox-y looking plant, red flowers, my wife has a vague memory it might have been called Mexican Fire something-or-other. Now we're preparing a framed set of photos of desert scenes for a graduating college student, and we'd like to be able to identify the flower for her. Does my primitive description and my wife's vague memory trigger any identification thoughts for you? If so, we'd be grateful.Scott Perry

--------------3B413DE58798388FAAA0007E-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 20 22:27:07 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 18:27:07 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle tree,messy ? Message-ID: <5b.162d8421.28399ebb@aol.com> The Bottle Tree is an evergreen and as such loses its leaves throughout the year as opposed to deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall. However either one will drop leaves if they are stressed and the most common stress to trees and plants here in the low desert is drought stress which is caused by inadequate irrigation. Yes seed pods can be messy on the Bottle Tree but they are quite easily picked up. Yes there are trees that are not quite as messy as the Bottle Tree. U of A Cooperative Extension has a bulletin with a list of trees and plants for poolside landscapes available for $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 which would be less messy than the bottle tree. Why not check out this website on irrigation to make sure that your trees are adequately irrigated : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 20 22:27:15 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 18:27:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grass for shady areas Message-ID: <9d.15a93806.28399ec3@aol.com> If you live in the low desert there are not many turf choices for deeply shaded areas. Tall fescue, although a cool season grass is about the only choice for deeply shaded areas. The bermuda must be first removed and then the tall fescue seeded in the fall. The fescue will require more water than bermuda and should be cut to 3 inches. You will find more info about tall fescue in the Master Gardener Manual chapter on Lawns at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From gravel22@yahoo.com Sun May 20 22:59:51 2001 From: gravel22@yahoo.com (gravel22@yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 15:59:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105202259.f4KMxpD11120@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am noticing my citrus leaves have a strange look lately. The leaf is green with blackish brown lines on the leaves. Should I be concerned? From tashthomp@aol.com Mon May 21 05:35:18 2001 From: tashthomp@aol.com (tashthomp@aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 22:35:18 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105210535.f4L5ZID13909@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I read an ad about turtle grass and unfortunately did not cut it out! It is a new hybrid that grows slow, needs the same water as bermuda but does not go dormant, thus no more overseeding in the fall. I have contacted several sod companies who know nothing of it. ever heard of it? thank you From labs5@home.com Mon May 21 14:38:20 2001 From: labs5@home.com (labs5@home.com) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 07:38:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105211438.f4LEcKN07503@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Any good ideas of how to get rid of and control an infestation of puncturevine (goatheads)? We have approximately an acre of property in the Payson area on which this weed is out of control. Thanks! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 21 15:31:11 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:31:11 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] puncturevine Message-ID: In my yard (much smaller than your property) I hoe out the young plants before they have a chance to flower and set seed. Mechanical control works well if you can eradicate the weeds when they are small. A preemergent would keep existing seeds from sprouting but it will keep ALL seeds from sprouting, perhaps not what you want. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: labs5@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 07:38:20 -0700 (MST) > >Any good ideas of how to get rid of and control an infestation of >puncturevine (goatheads)? We have approximately an acre of property in the >Payson area on which this weed is out of control. Thanks! > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 21 15:42:15 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:42:15 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] turtle grass Message-ID: The only turtle grass I have heard of is an aquatic grass growing in coastal waters off Florida. I don't think that is the one you are looking for. I guess I would use caution -- if it sounds too good to be true.. it probably isn't true. The hybrid bermuda grasses usually perform best in the arid southwest. They are dormant in the winter, but that means they use less water over a year. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: tashthomp@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 22:35:18 -0700 (MST) > >I read an ad about turtle grass and unfortunately did not cut it out! >It is a new hybrid that grows slow, needs the same water as bermuda but >does not go dormant, thus no more overseeding in the fall. I have >contacted several sod companies who know nothing of it. >ever heard of it? >thank you > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 21 15:46:41 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 15:46:41 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, brown lines on leaves Message-ID: I would suggest taking or mailing a sample of leaves to your nearest Extension Office for a positive identification. We are noticing a lot of thrip activity in Tucson. they usually show a white or light green line on the leaf. Nothing to be worried about and no control is necessary. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gravel22@yahoo.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 15:59:51 -0700 (MST) > >I am noticing my citrus leaves have a strange look lately. The leaf is >green with blackish brown lines on the leaves. Should I be concerned? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 21 16:59:02 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 16:59:02 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus ID Message-ID: Opuntia articulata inermis SPRUCE CONE CACTUS Cleistocactus strausii (or a related species) SILVER TORCH CACTUS or SNOW POLE good drainage, mild heat, strong light Look on the web for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mmayer@robsoncom.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 10:36:27 -0700 (MST) > >we have purchased two cactus plants. Can you tell me anything about them. >They are 1. pinecone cactus native to Bolivia and 2. golden torch cactus, >native to Mexico. Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 21 21:20:28 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 17:20:28 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Puncture vine Message-ID: <40.bc3a967.283ae09c@aol.com> Puncture vine can be killed with Roundup provided it is sprayed when it is young and actively growing. A tablespoon of Amonium sulfate per gallon of mix will often help the herbicide in killing the plant. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From casajps@aol.com Tue May 22 05:29:39 2001 From: casajps@aol.com (casajps@aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:29:39 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105220529.f4M5TcN23944@Ag.Arizona.Edu> i've recently found out my big patch of dead grass is infested with pearl scales. i see on this web site there is nothing i can do? help me please. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 22 15:06:23 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 15:06:23 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] pearl scale, lawn Message-ID: Information from Terry Mikel's column: How to control: 1. Make sure you have the scales. Inspect roots found near the edge of the spot for small (1/8th inch) cream colored 'pearls' attached to the roots. (****most important!!)**** 2. During a period from mid-May to July treatments are most effective. 3. Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control may go up to 60 to 70%. Not that great but as good as can be expected. 4. Applications must be made and watered in throroughly. 5. If the spots are small try digging out the grass down a foot and out from the spot 8 inches. Pile it all on a tarp and remove all the soil and roots. Replace with clean soil and either buy some more turf or cut plugs from the remaining lawn to replant. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azrepublic/pearlsc.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: casajps@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 22:29:39 -0700 (MST) > >i've recently found out my big patch of dead grass is infested with pearl >scales. i see on this web site there is nothing i can do? help me please. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From paul@hatclubusa.com Tue May 22 20:01:23 2001 From: paul@hatclubusa.com (Paul Stachel) Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 13:01:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle tree (Help) Message-ID: <001101c0e2f9$fd23f4a0$eecddd18@paul> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C0E2BF.4D65C500 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi, I have two bottle trees in my rear yard. They are approximately = 15 years old. One of them sits behind my pool and is much smaller and = lighter colored than the one just south of the pool. The one behind the = pool is shedding alot leaves making pool clean up a bear. The one to = the south is massive, green, and sheds less, but still is shedding its = leaves. I am planning on removing the one directly behind the pool. = The other one would be a shame to remove since it is so large and green. = What should I do about this larger one?=20 Am I going to continue to have shedding problems all year round from = this type of tree making pool clean up a daily chore? Can the large = tree be heavily pruned to reduce the branches that are hanging close to = the pool? Is there any concern that these roots can penetrate or damage = the pool or even the back wall of our property? What replacement tree might you recommend for behind the pool to = replace the tree I am definately removing. The space between the cool = deck and back wall is around 15-20 feet. Someone told me about a = Carolina Cherry. I appreciate your help. ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C0E2BF.4D65C500 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi, I have two = bottle trees in=20 my rear yard. They are approximately 15 years old. One of = them sits=20 behind my pool and is much smaller and lighter colored than the one just = south=20 of the pool. The one behind the pool is shedding alot leaves = making pool=20 clean up a bear. The one to the south is massive, green, and sheds = less,=20 but still is shedding its leaves. I am planning on removing = the one=20 directly behind the pool. The other one would be a shame to remove = since=20 it is so large and green. What should I do about this larger one?=20

Am I going to = continue to have=20 shedding problems all year round from this type of tree making pool = clean up a=20 daily chore? Can the large tree be heavily pruned to reduce the = branches=20 that are hanging close to the pool? Is there any concern that = these roots=20 can penetrate or damage the pool or even the back wall of our=20 property?

What replacement = tree might you=20 recommend for behind the pool to replace the tree I am definately=20 removing. The space between the cool deck and back wall = is around=20 15-20 feet. Someone told me about a Carolina Cherry.

I appreciate your=20 help.

------=_NextPart_000_000E_01C0E2BF.4D65C500-- From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 22 22:03:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 May 2001 18:03:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottle Tree shedding Message-ID: Yesterday I answered a similiar question with the following: The Bottle Tree is an evergreen and as such loses its leaves throughout the year as opposed to deciduous trees that lose their leaves in the fall. However either one will drop leaves if they are stressed and the most common stress to trees and plants here in the low desert is drought stress which is caused by inadequate irrigation. Yes seed pods can be messy on the Bottle Tree but they are quite easily picked up. Yes there are trees that are not quite as messy as the Bottle Tree. U of A Cooperative Extension has a bulletin with a list of trees and plants for poolside landscapes available for $1.00 at 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 which would be less messy than the bottle tree. Why not check out this website on irrigation to make sure that your trees are adequately irrigated : http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html The tree can be pruned to remove the lower limbs but you should not remove more than 15% at one time or 25% in one year. The roots of the Bottle Tree should not affect your pool unless the pool has a leak, however the roots do sometimes cause walks to heave. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From bakalaf@realty-advisers.com Wed May 23 19:03:07 2001 From: bakalaf@realty-advisers.com (bakalaf@realty-advisers.com) Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 12:03:07 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105231903.f4NJ36N08577@Ag.Arizona.Edu> why are the small oranges falling off the tree? The leaves seem to be a little whitish an some shrively. thank you From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 23 21:13:35 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 17:13:35 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oranges falling off the tree Message-ID: It is normal for a citrus tree to get rid of the fruit that it cannot handle. Also radical temperatures changes can cause a fruit drop as well as leaves. An insect called thrips can cause the leaves to look misformed, Do not be concerned the damage is only cosmetic. As for the whitish leaves, is the tree being watered adequately ? Check out this site for information on proper irrigation: www.ag.arizona.edu/pubs/crops/az1151 Have you fertilized recently ? A mature citrus tree requires one pound of actual nitrogen per year applied in three applications. Have you applied a weed killer near your citrus tree ? Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From dg.anderson@home.com Wed May 23 23:07:29 2001 From: dg.anderson@home.com (Douglas Anderson) Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 16:07:29 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) Message-ID: <002401c0e3dd$244a4aa0$96f80e18@phnx2.az.home.com> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0E3A2.77C23FC0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable My rye grass started dying out in patches a couple of weeks ago. I can = see where the bermuda is coming in but slowly. I have other areas where = the rye grass and the bermuda coexist. All areas get about the same = amount of water, all via sprinkler. I do not get irrigation. I have = gone from twice a week 20-minute soakings to adding 5-minute sprinklings = 3 times a day. It seems to get the bermuda going. My question is: = During the transition from rye to bermuda is it better to keep the top = of the soil moist or to deep soak to get the water to the bermuda roots? ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0E3A2.77C23FC0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My rye grass started dying out in patches a = couple of=20 weeks ago. I can see where the bermuda is coming in but = slowly. I=20 have other areas where the rye grass and the bermuda coexist. All = areas=20 get about the same amount of water, all via sprinkler. I do not = get=20 irrigation. I have gone from twice a week 20-minute soakings to = adding=20 5-minute sprinklings 3 times a day. It seems to get the bermuda=20 going. My question is: During the transition from rye to bermuda = is it=20 better to keep the top of the soil moist or to deep soak to get the = water to the=20 bermuda roots?

------=_NextPart_000_0021_01C0E3A2.77C23FC0-- From k.kentylera@verizon.net Thu May 24 02:08:08 2001 From: k.kentylera@verizon.net (k.kentylera@verizon.net) Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 19:08:08 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105240208.f4O288N14385@Ag.Arizona.Edu> IS THERE ANY SOLUTION FOR PIERICE'S DISEASE ON OLEANDER PLANTS. MINE ARE ALL DYING. THE DISEASE IS CAUSED BY THE GLASSYWINGED SHARPSHOOTER WHICH IS FOUND IN THE XYLEM TISSUE. (XYLELLS FASTIDIOSA0) CAUSES LEAF SCORCH AND DEATH From k.kentylera@verizon.net Thu May 24 02:10:30 2001 From: k.kentylera@verizon.net (k.kentylera@verizon.net) Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 19:10:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105240210.f4O2AUN14597@Ag.Arizona.Edu> IS THERE ANY SOLUTION FOR PIERICE'S DISEASE ON OLEANDER PLANTS. MINE ARE ALL DYING. THE DISEASE IS CAUSED BY THE GLASSYWINGED SHARPSHOOTER. WHICH IS FOUND IN THE XYLEM TISSUE. (XYLELLS FASTIDIOSA0) CAUSES LEAF SCORCH AND DEATH GLENN BOLDRIN From csmileyrun@qwest.net Thu May 24 13:37:22 2001 From: csmileyrun@qwest.net (csmileyrun@qwest.net) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 06:37:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105241337.f4ODbMN16295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I found two large caterpillars on my grapevines. The first is pale green with light colored spots, 3 inches long, 1/2 - 3/4 inch in diameter and has diagonal light colored stripes with one yellow dot inside the stripes, on the sides. It also has on the back end what appears like an "eye" or very small point, not quite a horn. The second one is almost the same except that it is 2" long, dark brown, black with white stripes that have one yellow dot inside the stripes. Both have voracious appetites. Could you please help me identify them please. From tdake@home.com Thu May 24 15:54:48 2001 From: tdake@home.com (tdake@home.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 08:54:48 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105241554.f4OFsmN04836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm not having much luck growing ocotillo. Only about 1 in 4 that I buy seem to survive. Is there a web page or other info that I can obtain that will give me the lowdown on how to get octoillo to grow? It seems like every nursery has a different answer - strip the roots, don't strip the roots, water after planting, don't water, etc. From ppierard@jbs1.com Thu May 24 17:09:38 2001 From: ppierard@jbs1.com (ppierard@jbs1.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:09:38 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105241709.f4OH9NN18770@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We're trying to figure out what little critter is eating our tomatoes, chilies, and peaches (minature peach tree). The plants are protected by chicken wire fences (1/2 inch mesh) and bird netting. Stems are broken off the plants and leaves and fruit knawed at --small bites -- over several days until consumed. We're thinking maybe lizards or a snake. Any advice? Thanks. From msmaxicat@aol.com Thu May 24 17:54:30 2001 From: msmaxicat@aol.com (msmaxicat@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:54:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105241754.f4OHsUN26804@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Help! According to the list of pathology symptoms in The Master Gardener on-line "Publication", I seem to have a white fig tree that probably has "Texas root rot" which seems to be a fungus disease. This "fits" as I have had to treat my orange trees nearby for fungus. The Orange trees are doing great, but this fig tree seems to be rapidly dying. It has lost many of it's leaves, and it's fruit tastes terrible. What do I do to treat the tree? Thanks for any and all help. Maxine Lyon, at: msmaxicat@aol.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu May 24 18:10:04 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:10:04 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105241554.f4OFsmN04836@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B0D4E7C.A6C02ACF@AuroraNow.org> You don't say how long you're giving your ocotillo before determining it "didn't survive." Ocotillos can take 2-3 years to re-establish after being transplanted. As long as the canes show some green and are flexible--you're probably fine (and you've probably by now pulled up live plants thinking they're dead!). My experience has been that the biggest problem for transplanted ocotillos is impatience. There are nurseries that sell ocotillos potted instead of bare-root which increases survival as well. If you're in Tucson, go to Desert Survivors (base of A Mountain on 22nd/Starr Pass). (I'm not a master gardener, so I guess I'm allowed to plug my favorite nursery :-) There was a similar question on the list recently with the following response: > I'd like to refer you to the following archived response concerning ocotillo care. Please go > to: > http://ag.arizona.edu/pipermail/arid_gardener/2001-March/006642.html > Here you will find a past response by Linda Guy and Mary Irish. Excellent information. > -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From s2@AuroraNow.org Thu May 24 18:20:17 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 11:20:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] caterpillars References: <200105241337.f4ODbMN16295@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B0D50E1.2731D600@AuroraNow.org> It's been eons since I was teenager with a butterfly "thing", and maybe the Master Gardeners will know native butterflies better than me, but: > The first > is pale green with light colored spots, 3 inches long, 1/2 - 3/4 inch in diameter > and has diagonal light colored stripes with one yellow dot inside the stripes, on the sides. > It also has on the back end what appears like an "eye" or very small > point, not quite a horn. Sure sounds like a monarch to me. > The second one is almost the > same except that it is 2" long, dark brown, black with white stripes that > have one yellow dot inside the stripes. Both have voracious appetites. Could you please > help me identify them please. And this sounds like a swallowtail, although I'd have no idea what species are native here in our low deserts. Sometimes its easier to ID these by their chrysallis or waiting for them to emerge as butterflies. If they're smooth (not fuzzy) they're butterflies. If they're fuzzy, they're moths. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From Edbrut@aol.com Thu May 24 20:16:50 2001 From: Edbrut@aol.com (Edbrut@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 16:16:50 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering Jacaranda trees Message-ID: I live in Surprise, AZ, and have a 5-month old Jacaranda that is on the same drip line system as a year-old Palo Brea. I was told by one landscaping company that in summer the Palo Brea needs only one hour of watering every 2 weeks (at 4 hrs./gal. rate) and that the Jacaranda needs watering once a week for 2 hours. The landscaper who put in the Palo Brea said it needs 1-2 hrs every 3-4 days at 4 gals/hr.in the summer. What do you recommend? Thanks in advance. Ed Brutman edbrut@aol.com From mcasper@quarles.com Thu May 24 21:06:29 2001 From: mcasper@quarles.com (mcasper@quarles.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:06:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105242106.f4OL6TN01757@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have three yucca rigada in my yard that are shooting new growth from the root rather than growing from the main stem. How do I stop the new shoots, which look like small plants, but upon further inspection are coming from the main plant? From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 24 22:19:56 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:19:56 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] tomatoes, chilis, peaches eaten Message-ID: The culprit probably is not a lizard or snake -- most of them eat insects or small birds and mammals. What about insects? Could you have caterpillars or beetles? They could eat small bits over several days. Do you see any frass (insect poop) on or around the plants? Is the enclosure secure enough that small birds cannot get in? (the sparrows love to eat my tomatoes). Cactus mice and other small rodents might be getting through the enclosure. Does the damage seem to occur at night? Sorry, no answers but a few other possibilities to check out. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: ppierard@jbs1.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 10:09:38 -0700 (MST) > >We're trying to figure out what little critter is eating our tomatoes, >chilies, and peaches (minature peach tree). The plants are protected by >chicken wire fences (1/2 inch mesh) and bird netting. Stems are broken off >the plants and leaves and fruit knawed at --small bites -- over several >days until consumed. We're thinking maybe lizards or a snake. Any advice? >Thanks. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 24 22:31:10 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:31:10 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus help Message-ID: Jay, I spoke with several people here regarding the symptoms on your pole cactus. What you describe might very well be a bacterial necrosis or fungal rot. Generally once cactus start to go with those symptoms there does not seem to be much chance of recovery. You could try cutting out the mushy part and treat with a weak bleach solution. I can send detailed information if you want to try this treatment. I would suggest you try to find someone locally to take a look at the plant and recommend treatment. Check for your county cooperative extension office or a local cactus gardening club. Linda Drew Master Gardener > >>From: Jay Wrobel > >>To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > >>Subject: [Arid_gardener] Cactus help > >>Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:27:48 -0700 (PDT) > >> > >>Hello > >> > >>I find your email on a Google search and I hope you > >>may be able to help. > >> > >>I have a pole cactus that is about 3' tall and > >>probably 2-3" across. It is a pot that is about 7" > >>high and 6" wide. it is the same pot it has been in > >>for years (probably 6 or more). I live in Illinois and > >>the cactus is always been indoors. > >> > >>Recently I noticed the top of the cactus is turning > >>dark green and getting mushy. The darkness seems like > >>it may be spreading down the cactus. I do keep the > >>cactus dry and avoid overwatering. > >> > >>Any ideas on how I can stop the rot or disease? > >> > >>Thanks in advance, Jay _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 24 22:40:00 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:40:00 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander Leaf Scorch Message-ID: Glenn, Where are you located? Oleander leaf scorch is found in southern California. I have heard cases have been reported in Arizona, but I have not been able to confirm where in the state. Here is some information I've found on the web: Symptoms can be seen year-round, although they may be more noticeable in late spring and summer; they develop more quickly in warm weather. Leaves on one or more branches may yellow and begin to droop; soon the margins of the leaves turn a deeper yellow or brown, and the leaves eventually die. As the disease progresses, more branches of the plant are affected. Oleanders affected by this disease decline and then die, usually within 3 to 5 years of the first symptoms. There is no known cure. Symptoms of this disease are often confused with those caused by drought. However, under limited water conditions leaves on all branches of a healthy plant yellow and droop at the same time. Drought-stressed leaves yellow uniformly or along the central leaf vein, whereas in leaf scorch disease yellowing of leaves progresses from the tip or margins of leaves inward. Also, unless the drought is severe, the plant recovers when watered. If salt toxicity is causing the symptoms, plants will improve if salts are leached through the soil and below the root zone, whereas no improvement will be seen in plants infected with leaf scorch bacteria. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: k.kentylera@verizon.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 19:10:30 -0700 (MST) > >IS THERE ANY SOLUTION FOR PIERICE'S DISEASE >ON OLEANDER PLANTS. MINE ARE ALL DYING. >THE DISEASE IS CAUSED BY THE GLASSYWINGED >SHARPSHOOTER. WHICH IS FOUND IN THE XYLEM >TISSUE. (XYLELLS FASTIDIOSA0) CAUSES LEAF >SCORCH AND DEATH > > GLENN BOLDRIN > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 24 22:51:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:51:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn care Message-ID: Lowered mowing height is critical to transition from winter rye to Bermuda lawn. Consistent watering to a depth of 12 inches is recommended. Bermuda grass growth resumes when night-time temperatures reach the upper 60s. To encourage the Bermuda grass, lower the mowing height to an inch or less after the nights warm up. This sets back the cool season grass, reduces shading, and warms up the Bermuda grass. Close mowing and lowered fertility to reduce the competition of the winter lawn, while maintaining good soil moisture, is the best practice. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: "Douglas Anderson" >To: "az ag" >Subject: [Arid_gardener] (no subject) >Date: Wed, 23 May 2001 16:07:29 -0700 > >My rye grass started dying out in patches a couple of weeks ago. I can see >where the bermuda is coming in but slowly. I have other areas where the >rye grass and the bermuda coexist. All areas get about the same amount of >water, all via sprinkler. I do not get irrigation. I have gone from twice >a week 20-minute soakings to adding 5-minute sprinklings 3 times a day. It >seems to get the bermuda going. My question is: During the transition from >rye to bermuda is it better to keep the top of the soil moist or to deep >soak to get the water to the bermuda roots? _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Thu May 24 22:59:03 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 22:59:03 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca rigida Message-ID: Blue yucca (Y. rigida) is generally single- trunked but occasionally has multiple stems. I don't think you can stop the new shoots. Check that the plant is not under stress that is causing it to grow this way. You may be able to cut off the new growth at the main stem, but I am not certain. Another member of this list may be able to better answer that question. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mcasper@quarles.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:06:29 -0700 (MST) > >I have three yucca rigada in my yard that are shooting new growth from the >root rather than growing from the main stem. How do I stop the new shoots, >which look like small plants, but upon further inspection are coming from >the main plant? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 24 23:13:14 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:13:14 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Turf watering Message-ID: It is always better to deep water plants whether it be turf or trees. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and wi;ll help flush the salts out of the root zone. By deep watering you should only have to water turf every 3 or 4 days. The weather page of your newspaper will tell you how much water to apply if you watered three days ago. If adequate water has been applied a 6 inch screwdriver blade will will insert easily full depth. Check out these sites on turf watering and care: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/lawnguid.html#LONG http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/lawns/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 24 23:13:16 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:13:16 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Fig tree with Texas Root Rot symptoms Message-ID: <106.595876.283eef8c@aol.com> Maxine, If you will bring a root sample of your fig tree to Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040 they will send the sample to the U of A Pathology Lab for a test to determine if the tree has Texas Root Rot. The root should be approximately 10 by 1/2 inch, do not wash it and bring it as fresh as possible. If the tree does have Texas Root Rot there is no way to treat it. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 24 23:13:15 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:13:15 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] watering Jacaranda trees Message-ID: Since the Jacaranda tree was recently planted it will require more frequent watering than the Palo Brea. Until the Jacaranda is at least one year old you will have to operate your irrigation frequency based on the Jacaranda tree. That frequency here in the low desert in summer should be every 5 to 7 days provided you are deep watering. Next year you will be able to extend that frequency. Check out this site for info on proper irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Thu May 24 23:13:17 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 19:13:17 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Grapevines eaten by caterpillars Message-ID: <6.1716bd31.283eef8d@aol.com> The insects you describe sound like the tomato horn worm and the grapeleaf skeletonizer. Both can be controlled by an organic product called BT which should be available at most nurseries. Don't wait because those caterpillars are very hungary. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From Theblcknite@aol.com Fri May 25 04:29:46 2001 From: Theblcknite@aol.com (Theblcknite@aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:29:46 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105250429.f4P4TkN03967@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My 2 year old grapefruit tree hasen't looked its best lately. The tree is planted on the south side of my house in Tucson and is around 7 feet tall. The bottom half of the tree looks great-big, dark green leaves loaded with fruit-golfball size already. The top of the tree and especially the south and west side have much smaller leaves that are sort of yellow and brown. Also, several branches have few or no leaves of them. I have a thick layer of mulch under the entire branch spread and have fertilized in February and again in early May. I used iron chelate in April. The tree is watered once a week for four hours with drip. Is there something I can do to green it up? Thank you. From agatts@aol.com Fri May 25 15:02:42 2001 From: agatts@aol.com (agatts@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:02:42 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105251502.f4PF2gN05421@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When you cut down a eucalyptus tree and leave the stump in the ground, is that a greater attraction for termites? In other words, does that mean more termites are going to fest that area than normal? If so, how much of a circumference does that "attraction" area cover? Thanks... From steve.sheard@motorola.com Fri May 25 16:48:25 2001 From: steve.sheard@motorola.com (Stephen Sheard) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 09:48:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Yucca rigida In-Reply-To: Message-ID: My Yucca does the same thing. I look at it as a plus. I break off the new growth when it gets a few inches long, put it in a pot and "bingo" I have lots of little give away gifts for teachers etc. Regards Steve -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2001 3:59 PM To: mcasper@quarles.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Yucca rigida Blue yucca (Y. rigida) is generally single- trunked but occasionally has multiple stems. I don't think you can stop the new shoots. Check that the plant is not under stress that is causing it to grow this way. You may be able to cut off the new growth at the main stem, but I am not certain. Another member of this list may be able to better answer that question. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: mcasper@quarles.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 14:06:29 -0700 (MST) > >I have three yucca rigada in my yard that are shooting new growth from the >root rather than growing from the main stem. How do I stop the new shoots, >which look like small plants, but upon further inspection are coming from >the main plant? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From RkBetu@aol.com Fri May 25 19:35:48 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:35:48 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sterile citrus? Message-ID: <3c.c4ca2df.28400e14@aol.com> I have a grapefruit tree that is about 6-7 years old. It came up from seed (where I used to toss out pulp). It is about 8' tall and looks very healthy. It gets regular watering (deep soak every 2-3 wks and fertilizing. It is also in partial shade about half the day.It has never bloomed, or, of course, produced any fruit.Any ideas as to why? Rocki From Beverlyfz@aol.com Fri May 25 20:08:03 2001 From: Beverlyfz@aol.com (Beverlyfz@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:08:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Javelina Message-ID: <9f.15e35155.284015a3@aol.com> These are really ugly pigs and they come in the night and push my flower pots off the porch and dig out and eat the roots. They take all the buds and blooms off my roses and tear off the branches. Ate all my squash. What I want to know is if I had a motion detector light out back if they would leave when they set it off? I don't want to fence my desert property and chicken wire (only effective deterrent) looks gross around my roses. thx B From RodMcQ6@aol.com Fri May 25 21:07:00 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:07:00 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Jaracanda Tree Message-ID: <7c.164f147a.28402374@aol.com> Dawn, I have two Jacaranda trees, and yes they do drop lots of blossoms when they are in bloom. I suspect that there may be aphids on the tree which are dropping all the honeydew, the sticky substance on cars and the walk. Sorry but I don't know of a way to eliminate the blooms on the Jacaranda unless you cut it down. The Jacaranda is so beautiful when in bloom that I certainly would hesitate recommending removal. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From aekozmiuk@hotmail.com Fri May 25 22:47:03 2001 From: aekozmiuk@hotmail.com (aekozmiuk@hotmail.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:47:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105252247.f4PMl3N12193@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a lot of pine needles, Can these be used for mulch and what types of plants and what problems may occur with using them? From kyklas1@aol.com Sat May 26 00:57:28 2001 From: kyklas1@aol.com (kyklas1@aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:57:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105260057.f4Q0vSN27333@Ag.Arizona.Edu> HELP! I may not have the right department, but I really need help on controlling flies. For what ever reason, I am over run and over whelmed with flies this year. I have a couple of house dogs,a cat and birds, a pool,and a fish pond. Yard is kept clean, patio kept clean, garbage out, but the flies are driving me crazy. The only other time I have seen flies like this was when a tenant died in a mobil and we didn't know it for a few days. I have evaporative cooling, left the patio door cracked today and kitchen window and when I returned home, flies covered more than a third of the door and window. I've been using a product called CV-38 to repel them away from the door and window. If anything, it seens to be attracting them. With the animals I'm very reluctant to use chemicals, and have always been able to handle it with clean. However, not this year. I have put up a wee-stinky and have sprayed my plants in the yard. Both neighbors behind me have dogs, and I can't say as to how clean their yards are, the one has a pool that is often not swimable. I don't know where to turn or what to do. In the hour that I've been home I've probably killed 200 flies in the house. And it seems as fast as I kill them the ants are in to scavange the bodies. And they have become a problem too. Any information that you can give me as to what to do or who to talk to will be greatly appreciated. And as quickly as possible, please. Thank you. Mary Ann From rlblizz@cox-internet.com Sat May 26 03:14:35 2001 From: rlblizz@cox-internet.com (rlblizz@cox-internet.com) Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 20:14:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105260314.f4Q3EZN09697@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have 2 flame grapes vines. I beleive I have about 40% BOTRYTIS BUNCH ROT. 1st dose of liquid fungiside. Directions say(3 tbsp per 5-15gal of water for vegetables- 7-10day intervals) I am using 1 tbsp for 1 gal of water has stopped the disease. How much liquid fungicide is to much and how safe are the grapes(eat) when ripe eventhough there might still evidence of Botrytis bunch rot. Thanks Robert from Austin, TX From markrenl@earthlink.net Sat May 26 15:05:55 2001 From: markrenl@earthlink.net (Mark & Karen LaLone) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 08:05:55 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What's happening to our peppers? Message-ID: In February our family had planted five Bell Peppers plants in our raised garden bed, from small sprouts provided by a local nursery. Our garden is in north phoenix and on the west side of our house which gets partial sun and shade. One plant is doing great, already it is bearing a large pepper. However, the other four have developed black areas on the base of each branch where the flower stems from causing the flower or early forming pepper to drop. What might be the couse of this and is there anything we can do to stop this from happeing? By the way, in the same patch are green beans and corn and they're doing fine. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated! Mark & Karen From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 26 19:41:45 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 19:41:45 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] flies Message-ID: Quick researching found a few things to try: 1) mix an egg yolk with 1 tbsp. molasses and 1 tbsp. black pepper in a saucer and set on windowsill (fly killer) 2) mix equal parts of melted resin and castor oil, spread over long strips of stiff paper with a knife warmed in hot water. Thread string through one end and hang near windows (flypaper). 3) check with supplier of biological controls for fly parasites and solar fly traps. One source is www.goodearthmarketplace.com I'm assuming these are houseflies, but you may want to try and get a positive ID -- hard to fight if you don't know what they are. good luck! Linda >From: kyklas1@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 17:57:28 -0700 (MST) > >HELP! I may not have the right department, but I really need help on >controlling flies. For what ever reason, I am over run and over whelmed >with flies this year. I have a couple of house dogs,a cat and birds, a >pool,and a fish pond. Yard is kept clean, patio kept clean, garbage out, >but the flies are driving me crazy. The only other time I have seen flies >like this was when a tenant died in a mobil and we didn't know it for a few >days. I have evaporative cooling, left the patio door cracked today and >kitchen window and when I returned home, flies covered more than a third of >the door and window. I've been using a product called CV-38 to repel them >away from the door and window. If anything, it seens to be attracting them. > With the animals I'm very reluctant to use chemicals, and have always >been able to handle it with clean. However, not this year. I have put up a >wee-stinky and have sprayed my plants in the yard. Both neighbors behind me >have dogs, and I can't say as to ! >how clean their yards are, the one has a pool that is often not swimable. >I don't know where to turn or what to do. In the hour that I've been home >I've probably killed 200 flies in the house. And it seems as fast as I kill >them the ants are in to scavange the bodies. And they have become a problem >too. Any information that you can give me as to what to do or who to talk >to will be greatly appreciated. And as quickly as possible, please. >Thank you. >Mary Ann > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From bkh@uswest.net Sat May 26 19:55:24 2001 From: bkh@uswest.net (bkh@uswest.net) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 12:55:24 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105261955.f4QJtON22595@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have citrus trees that had a high yield last winter. I think the trees are heavy & dense & need trimming. When is the time to trim them & how do I clear out the middle some? thank you From dolphin11847@cs.com Sat May 26 20:11:31 2001 From: dolphin11847@cs.com (dolphin11847@cs.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 13:11:31 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105262011.f4QKBVN24121@Ag.Arizona.Edu> do you have any information on rain barrel drip watering system? I am trying hard to keep new plants alive and live in spring hill florida..we are in a drought. I did plant dry climate plants and am minimizing lawn space by cutting out large areas for gardens with plenty of mulch..I also chose dry climate large plants to plant behind shade required plants but I cant keep up with plant growth help any suggestions? From dolphin11847@cs.com Sat May 26 20:12:21 2001 From: dolphin11847@cs.com (dolphin11847@cs.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 13:12:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105262012.f4QKCLN24210@Ag.Arizona.Edu> do you have any information on rain barrel drip watering system? I am trying hard to keep new plants alive and live in spring hill florida..we are in a drought. I did plant dry climate plants and am minimizing lawn space by cutting out large areas for gardens with plenty of mulch..I also chose dry climate large plants to plant behind shade required plants but I cant keep up with plant growth help any suggestions? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sat May 26 21:00:30 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 17:00:30 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning Citrus Message-ID: <14.14c81603.2841736e@aol.com> Do not even think about pruning citrus this time of year, it is very easy to remove too much and subject the tree to sunburn. A sunburned tree invites all kinds of problems. If you must prune then do it in the winter time. Never remove more than 15% at one time, remove only dead or crossing branches and if you have a stray that is growing out of bounds. Each time you remove a leaf from a tree you are removing food manufacturing capability. You said that the tree looked great, don't touch it. If the fruit crop is too heavy the tree wi;ll take care of that by dropping any fruit it cannot handle. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From s2@AuroraNow.org Sat May 26 21:16:10 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 14:16:10 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] attracting beneficials References: Message-ID: <3B101D1A.B1815E0D@AuroraNow.org> Hi all, We were on the topic of attracting ladybugs and other beneficial insects some time ago, and I had recalled using a silver tag on plants in my former Michigan garden. I finally got the old garden center to remember the product, called Ladybug Lures that uses theramones (sp?) [scent] to attract the beneficials. In Michigan, they SAVED my vegatable and herb garden and I always had a plethora of ladybugs and mantis around. The manufacturer is Surefire (it's a "Safer" product which I think just means its organic/environmentally sound). I ordered 2 packets from my old garden center in MI (she had to dig them up hiding on a back shelf--probably ordered years ago when I used to purchase them regularly) and am going to try to get local places to carry it. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From armerrill@compuserve.com Sat May 26 21:57:04 2001 From: armerrill@compuserve.com (armerrill@compuserve.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 14:57:04 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105262157.f4QLv4N01696@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Has anyone had any luck with killing pearl scale in the yard grass? Do you need to take that section of the grass out and replace? I have been having it sprayed but have not seen any improvement. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 26 23:49:52 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 23:49:52 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: >Information from Terry Mikel's column: How to control: 1. Make sure you have the scales. Inspect roots found near the edge of the spot for small (1/8th inch) cream colored 'pearls' attached to the roots. (****most important!!)**** 2. During a period from mid-May to July treatments are most effective. 3. Sulfur or a sulfur bearing product gives some control by itself. Couple it with an insecticide designed for soil applications on lawns and the control may go up to 60 to 70%. Not that great but as good as can be expected. 4. Applications must be made and watered in throroughly. 5. If the spots are small try digging out the grass down a foot and out from the spot 8 inches. Pile it all on a tarp and remove all the soil and roots. Replace with clean soil and either buy some more turf or cut plugs from the remaining lawn to replant. http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azrepublic/pearlsc.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: armerrill@compuserve.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 14:57:04 -0700 (MST) > >Has anyone had any luck with killing pearl scale in the yard grass? Do you >need to take that section of the grass out and replace? I have been having >it sprayed but have not seen any improvement. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sat May 26 23:58:28 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 23:58:28 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] water harvesting Message-ID: Here is a copy of a previous response from Mike Todd: "One Place to start is the Water Resources Research Center (WRRC) web site. They have an online document from their publication _Arroyo_ that discusses some of the issues involved in graywater use and rainwater harvesting. The URL for the document is the following:" http://ag.arizona.edu/AZWATER/arroyo/071rain.html Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: dolphin11847@cs.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 13:12:21 -0700 (MST) > >do you have any information on rain barrel drip watering system? I am >trying hard to keep new plants alive and live in spring hill florida..we >are in a drought. I did plant dry climate plants and am minimizing lawn >space by cutting out large areas for gardens with plenty of mulch..I also >chose dry climate large plants to plant behind shade required plants but I >cant keep up with plant growth help any suggestions? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From rye@theriver.com Sun May 27 00:04:14 2001 From: rye@theriver.com (rye@theriver.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 17:04:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105270004.f4R04EN11989@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I live at Roosevelt lake and over the past two years have planted 50+ fruit, nut, and shade trees. All are on a drip system. I water evry few days for several hours. It is over 100 degrees and the wind always blows. My question is: Should I water during the day when the trees really need it or at night. There seems to be two different schools of thought. Thank you for your input. Brett Rye From RodMcQ6@aol.com Sun May 27 00:04:54 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 May 2001 20:04:54 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pearl Scale Message-ID: <10f.49c46a.28419ea6@aol.com> The latest on Pearl Scale control is available in an article by Terry Mikel at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azrepublic/pearlsc.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From bkh@uswest.net Sun May 27 17:18:28 2001 From: bkh@uswest.net (bkh@uswest.net) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 10:18:28 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105271718.f4RHISN23844@Ag.Arizona.Edu> What should I do with my strawberry plants? They are in a garden & look great but didn't produce much this year. Isn't it going to get too hot for them soon? Will they come up again next year if they burn down? Or do I have to do something to preserve the plants? Also, I plantedd corn seed a couple months ago & nothing sprouted. What's up w/ that? Is it too late to try a short season variety? Thanks From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:26:53 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:26:53 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Strawberries Message-ID: Here is a copy of an answer from Linda Guy: Strawberries will grow in our county, but do require good care as they are an acid-loving plant and our soils are alkaline. As you already noted, variety selection is key. There are two types: June-bearing or one crop per year types (Sequoia, Tioga, Lassen, Shasta, & Tufts) and everbearing types (Douglas, Chandler, Gem, Streamliner & Ozark Beauty). June-bearers are thought to do better than everbearing types, but these are often allowed to fruit for one year and then are replaced the following fall for maximum production. (Strawberries have to be coddled in our intense summers.) We have a good, four-page publication 8665 Strawberries for Home Gardens that describes site considerations, soil prep, planting, varieties, culture and treatment of problems. I would recommend you get a copy. Most public libraries have a reference copy of our horticulture pubs, but you can also send $1 to (or go to the office to pick it up for free at): Home Horticulture Publications University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 East Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040 Watch out for those birds which may well beat you to your crop! Linda Guy Master Gardene >From: bkh@uswest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 10:18:28 -0700 (MST) > >What should I do with my strawberry plants? They are in a garden & look >great but didn't produce much this year. Isn't it going to get too hot for >them soon? Will they come up again next year if they burn down? Or do I >have to do something to preserve the plants? >Also, I plantedd corn seed a couple months ago & nothing sprouted. What's >up w/ that? Is it too late to try a short season variety? >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:30:55 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:30:55 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] corn Message-ID: You can try planting short-season corn in mid-July (monsoon garden) for a late summer harvest or in mid to late August for a Thanksgiving harvest. Corn is a heavy feeder, so be certain you plant them in good soil with good drainage. Corn needs to be kept evenly moist until it sprouts and second leaves appear in my experience. The sprouting seeds die if they dry out. >From: bkh@uswest.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 10:18:28 -0700 (MST) > >What should I do with my strawberry plants? They are in a garden & look >great but didn't produce much this year. Isn't it going to get too hot for >them soon? Will they come up again next year if they burn down? Or do I >have to do something to preserve the plants? >Also, I plantedd corn seed a couple months ago & nothing sprouted. What's >up w/ that? Is it too late to try a short season variety? >Thanks > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:34:14 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:34:14 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Mulch, pine needles Message-ID: Here is a copy of a recent response: Dawn G Kazmer (dgkazmer@juno.com) Fri, 9 Jul 1999 07:01:28 -0700 Pine needles are excellent mulch for strawberries and other plants especially in the desert where our soil is very alkaline. Pine needles tend to be an acidic mulch. Rejoice, it you like the way they look, you've got some great mulch! >From: aekozmiuk@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:47:03 -0700 (MST) > >I have a lot of pine needles, Can these be used for mulch and what types of >plants and what problems may occur with using them? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:44:21 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:44:21 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Javelina Message-ID: Javelina can be difficult to control; if the food is tempting enough I don't think a light would deter them for long. If you could trigger a recording of a barking dog with the light, that might be more effective (But your neighbors may not appreciate it) Here are some references that might help: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-wld.htm Arizona Game & Fish Department. (1996) Urban Wildlife Public Information Manual. Phoenix: Urban Heritage Fund. (Available from The Arizona Game & Fish Department, 2221 W Greenway, Phoenix, AZ 85023, (602)942-3000) Provides procedures for handling specific problems including description of animal, problem diagnosis, self help strategies, when to seek professional assistance, and pertinent laws and policies. Covers Big Game,Other Mammals, Birds, Reptiles & Amphibians, and Fish; Includes description and contact information for Agencies and Organizations that assist with wildlife management problems; General Information; and Policies and Procedures of the Arizona Game and Fish Department. Hygnstrom, S., Timm R. M., Larson, G.(1994) Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage Lincoln: University of Nebraska Cooperative Extension, USDA_APHIS-Wildlife Services Animal Damage Control, and Great Plains Agricultural Council. (Available from Wildlife Damage Handbook, 202 Natural Resources Hall, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE 68583-0819 Contains sections on Damage Identification, Rodents, Carnivores, Other Mammals, Birds, Reptiles & Amphibians, etc., Vertebrate Pesticides, Supplies and Materials, Index of Manufacturers and Suppliers, and Index of Product and Trade Names. Sample chapters in pdf format: (note: very slow to load but worth the wait):deer, tree squirrels, cottontail rabbits and pigeons available on the web. Tim McGill, distribution coordinator: (402) 472-3023 Hoffa, R. L. (1996) Coexisting with Urban Wildlife: A guide to Central Arizona Uplands. Prescott, AZ:Sharlot Hall Museum Press A "Good Neighbor Guide", filled with practical information about the needs of wildlife along with methods for encouraging or discouraging animal visits and ways of avoiding or solving animal problems. This book will help you to identify, understand, and appreciate the animals of this area. ISBN 0-927579-07-3 Salmon, T. P. and Lickliter, R. E. (1984) Wildlife Pest Control Around Gardens and Homes.Oakland:University of California. Overview; Quick Identification Guide for Birds and Mammals; Management Strategies for: Birds, Deer,Ground squirrels, Meadow Voles, Moles, Pocket Gophers, Rabbits, Rats and Mice, and Tree Squirrels; and Glossary. ISBN 0-931876-66-4 Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Beverlyfz@aol.com >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Javelina >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 16:08:03 EDT > >These are really ugly pigs and they come in the night and push my flower >pots >off the porch and dig out and eat the roots. They take all the buds and >blooms off my roses and tear off the branches. Ate all my squash. What I >want to know is if I had a motion detector light out back if they would >leave >when they set it off? I don't want to fence my desert property and chicken >wire (only effective deterrent) looks gross around my roses. thx B >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:47:57 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:47:57 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sterile citrus? Message-ID: Perhaps the citrus is still young to bloom. Container plants (already a few years old) may not produce fruit for the first 3 or 4 years after they are planted. I wouldn't give up on it yet, especially if it looks good and provides shade. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: RkBetu@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sterile citrus? >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 15:35:48 EDT > >I have a grapefruit tree that is about 6-7 years old. It came up from seed >(where I used to toss out pulp). It is about 8' tall and looks very >healthy. It gets regular watering (deep soak every 2-3 wks and fertilizing. >It is also in partial shade about half the day.It has never bloomed, or, of >course, produced any fruit.Any ideas as to why? >Rocki >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:55:09 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:55:09 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites Message-ID: Here is a related reply from Linda Guy. I don't think you will "attract" termites. They are a natural part of our desert, feeding on dead plant material and usually doing no harm. The subterranean termites that might cause house problems need moist soil -- an idea is to avoid foundation planting in the desert. "I am by no means an expert, but since your question appears to have been around some time, I thought I read up in our publications in an effort to learn a little more and help you out at the same time! It appears there are dry-wood and subterranean termites. The latter feed on wood that is buried or in contact with the ground. Because they must maintain contact with moist soil, they construct long tubes of dirt and wood chips from the soil surface to places where wood is found. These tubes are typically found around the foundation of your house, at windows and door frames or hanging down from ceilings. This suggests that the tubes in your lawn may not be termites.Tubes are also found on fences and trees, because termites are a natural part of the environment removing dead or decaying wood materials. They do not attack living plant matter. If you are able, you could bring a specimen and description of your problem to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. Someone will phone you within a week usually. We also have some publications you can order regarding termites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects notably MC 39, MC 40, MC 80, MC 81." Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: agatts@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:02:42 -0700 (MST) > >When you cut down a eucalyptus tree and leave the stump in the ground, is >that a greater attraction for termites? In other words, does that mean more >termites are going to fest that area than normal? If so, how much of a >circumference does that "attraction" area cover? Thanks... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 18:59:10 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 18:59:10 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus, grapefruit Message-ID: I don't think anyone has responded to your question. Perhaps the tree is getting some sun scorch since it is still young and getting south and west exposure. I would advise you keep the tree well-watered and provide some afternoon shade. Do not prune. You can call the Pima County Plant Clinic at 626-5161 for more information. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Theblcknite@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Thu, 24 May 2001 21:29:46 -0700 (MST) > >My 2 year old grapefruit tree hasen't looked its best lately. The tree is >planted on the south side of my house in Tucson and is around 7 feet tall. >The bottom half of the tree looks great-big, dark green leaves loaded with >fruit-golfball size already. The top of the tree and especially the south >and west side have much smaller leaves that are sort of yellow and brown. >Also, several branches have few or no leaves of them. I have a thick layer >of mulch under the entire branch spread and have fertilized in February and >again in early May. I used iron chelate in April. The tree is watered >once a week for four hours with drip. Is there something I can do to green >it up? Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From umiller@azdps.com Sun May 27 20:28:47 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 13:28:47 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Linda - I have a question about this. When you mention 'foundation planting' - what does that mean? Does that mean that there should be no bushes close to the house that are watered with a drip system? Ursula Miller -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of Linda Drew Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2001 11:55 AM To: agatts@aol.com; arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] Termites Here is a related reply from Linda Guy. I don't think you will "attract" termites. They are a natural part of our desert, feeding on dead plant material and usually doing no harm. The subterranean termites that might cause house problems need moist soil -- an idea is to avoid foundation planting in the desert. "I am by no means an expert, but since your question appears to have been around some time, I thought I read up in our publications in an effort to learn a little more and help you out at the same time! It appears there are dry-wood and subterranean termites. The latter feed on wood that is buried or in contact with the ground. Because they must maintain contact with moist soil, they construct long tubes of dirt and wood chips from the soil surface to places where wood is found. These tubes are typically found around the foundation of your house, at windows and door frames or hanging down from ceilings. This suggests that the tubes in your lawn may not be termites.Tubes are also found on fences and trees, because termites are a natural part of the environment removing dead or decaying wood materials. They do not attack living plant matter. If you are able, you could bring a specimen and description of your problem to the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension Office at 4341 E. Broadway Road Phoenix, AZ 85040. Someone will phone you within a week usually. We also have some publications you can order regarding termites at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Insects notably MC 39, MC 40, MC 80, MC 81." Good luck! Linda Guy Master Gardener >From: agatts@aol.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Fri, 25 May 2001 08:02:42 -0700 (MST) > >When you cut down a eucalyptus tree and leave the stump in the ground, is >that a greater attraction for termites? In other words, does that mean more >termites are going to fest that area than normal? If so, how much of a >circumference does that "attraction" area cover? Thanks... > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Sun May 27 22:45:22 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 22:45:22 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Termites Message-ID: Ursula, My understanding is to avoid planting close to the house and regularly irrigate that area in a desert climate. Linda _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From sjbass@qwest.net Sun May 27 23:12:41 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:12:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] re: What's happening to our peppers? References: Message-ID: <3B1189E9.B82AD4F9@qwest.net> The following page may be helpful to you http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/pathology/pepper.html It is a pathology key for peppers. Another is: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/vegetable/peppers.html This contains information on growing peppers. Also, the following page: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/application.html provides information on fertilization. One more site for you: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/controldiseases.html Information on identifying and controlling diseases. Our early, high temperatures could be causing the peppers to abort their blossoms. Sue Bass Mark & Karen LaLone wrote: > In February our family had planted five Bell Peppers plants in our raised > garden bed, from small sprouts provided by a local nursery. Our garden is in > north phoenix and on the west side of our house which gets partial sun and > shade. One plant is doing great, already it is bearing a large pepper. > However, the other four have developed black areas on the base of each > branch where the flower stems from causing the flower or early forming > pepper to drop. What might be the couse of this and is there anything we can > do to stop this from happeing? By the way, in the same patch are green beans > and corn and they're doing fine. Any advice or help would be greatly > appreciated! > > Mark & Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun May 27 23:19:59 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:19:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pepper Plants not setting fruit? References: <5.1.0.14.0.20010514122940.026e5b00@usscreen.com> Message-ID: <3B118B9F.C55097B7@qwest.net> Mishelle: The following is some information I located at a site called PLANTanswers: If you notice blossoms dropping of your pepper plant, temperature may be the reason. The pepper is a warm season vegetable. It grows and produces fruit when the soil and air temperatures are warm. The temperature range for fruit set is quite narrow. When nighttime temperatures fall below 60 degrees F. or above 75 degrees F., blossoms are likely to drop and fruit will not set. Daytime temperatures above 90 degrees F. will also inhibit fruit set, but fruits will again begin to form when cooler daytime temperatures appear. We have been seeing some extreme heat these past few weeks, quite a sudden shock on most plants and people! Sue Bass Master Gardener Mishelle Fresener wrote: > Hello, > > My Jalapeno plants are flowering but not setting any fruit. I'm getting > frustrated as everything else looks great. What am I doing wrong? > > Thanks, > > Mishelle in Tempe > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun May 27 23:25:38 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:25:38 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Irrigation References: <200105270004.f4R04EN11989@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B118CF2.4D3CBCFC@qwest.net> Two sites with good information on irrigation are: http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/irrigation/index.html from our Master Gardener Manual. and from the City of Phoenix: http://www.ci.phoenix.az.us/WATER/treeshrb.html Sue Bass: rye@theriver.com wrote: > Hi, > > I live at Roosevelt lake and over the past two years have planted 50+ fruit, nut, and shade trees. All are on a drip system. I water evry few days for several hours. It is over 100 degrees and the wind always blows. > > My question is: Should I water during the day when the trees really need it or at night. There seems to be two different schools of thought. > > Thank you for your input. > > Brett Rye > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Sun May 27 23:41:59 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:41:59 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Uzbek Melon References: <200105100041.f4A0fhb24218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B1190C7.5DFDFD3C@qwest.net> Allen: I have had no luck locating any information on Uzbek melons. I did find the name of a company in Texas that sells exotic and unusual seeds from around the world. You may want to contact them and see if they can point you in the right direction. They are: http://www.seed-man.com/ Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu wrote: > Can you tell me where I can obtain Uzbek melon seeds? A few years back, Smitty's markets carried the melons for two years running, but I haven't seen them since, and I suspect that our climate ought to be suitable for Central Asian crops. > > Many thanks for your help, > > Allen Meyer > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From twozonies@aol.com Sun May 27 23:52:33 2001 From: twozonies@aol.com (twozonies@aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 16:52:33 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105272352.f4RNqXN22221@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My Mexican bird of pardise is growing like gangbusters, green and fluffy. BUT the leaf tips keep turning black and cripsy, as if they have been burnt up! No indication of anything spilled or sprayed on it and I see no evidence of pests. It's on a drainage where we backflush the pool, but it's been there 3 years without a problem and we haven't changed the chemicals. From daletate@swbell.net Mon May 28 02:52:14 2001 From: daletate@swbell.net (Dale Tate) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:52:14 -0600 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Corn Roast Message-ID: Hello, I garden at a senior citizen's community garden sponsored by the City of El Paso Parks and Recreation Department along with 89 other gardeners. I have approximately 230 stalks of sweet corn at about 5% brush silk stage so will start corn ear worn control tomorrow. Providing I can keep the worm out of the corn, I would like to provide a corn roast for approximately 100 friends, neighbors, and associates on or about 6 P.M. on June 23rd, 01. I am aware that "Annual Corn Roast " are popular events in many parts of the country, usually fund raising affairs, however, My problem is that I have no experience in roasting corn or staging a "Corn Roast". Neither does anyone else in or around El Paso that I can find. Are there any of you with experience to share? All on this list are invited - RSVP by e-mail if you plan to join us in this learning experience and I will keep you informed as to details. Thanks Dale Tate http://daletate.tripod.com/homepage.html From Pincher62@msn.com Mon May 28 03:44:19 2001 From: Pincher62@msn.com (Pincher62@msn.com) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:44:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105280344.f4S3iJN10602@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My Italian Cypress had spider mites but the problem has been taken care of but now the braches on my cypress are all drooping bad. The tops are also not growing straight and look deformed. Any Ideas? Thankyou Mike From sjbass@qwest.net Mon May 28 03:49:54 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 20:49:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Corn Roast References: Message-ID: <3B11CAE2.8A5BD7A9@qwest.net> Dale: I'm sure you will get other responses (I hope!) but I did find the following information at Ask Jeeves: http://askjeeves.com/main/metaanswer.asp?metaEngine=directhit&origin=0&MetaURL=http%3A%2F%2Fask%2Edirecthit%2Ecom%2Ffcgi%2Dbin%2FRedirURL%2Efcg%3Furl%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ewchstv%2Ecom%2Fgmarecipes%2Fgrillroastedcornoncob%2Ehtml%26qry%3DHow%2Bdo%2Byou%2Broast%2Bsweet%2Bcorn%253F%26rnk%3D2%26cz%3D5d3c238bb7aa4270%26src%3DDH%5FAsk%5FSRCH&qCategory=food&metaTopic=GMA+Recipe%3A+Grill%2DRoasted+Corn+on+the+Cob&ItemOrdinal=1&logQID=561B793F7AC31D42A1938BE55EB090A2&sv=215&back=http%3A%2F%2Faskjeeves%2Ecom%2Fmain%2Faskjeeves%2Easp%3Fask%3DHow%2Bdo%2Byou%2Broast%2Bsweet%2Bcorn%253F%26x%3D11%26y%3D12&ask=How+do+you+roast+sweet+corn%3F Sue Bass Dale Tate wrote: > Hello, > > I garden at a senior citizen's community garden sponsored by the City of El > Paso Parks and Recreation Department along with 89 other gardeners. I have > approximately 230 stalks of sweet corn at about 5% brush silk stage so will > start corn ear worn control tomorrow. > > Providing I can keep the worm out of the corn, I would like to provide a > corn roast for approximately 100 friends, neighbors, and associates on or > about 6 P.M. on June 23rd, 01. > > I am aware that "Annual Corn Roast " are popular events in many parts of the > country, usually fund raising affairs, however, My problem is that I have no > experience in roasting corn or staging a "Corn Roast". Neither does anyone > else in or around El Paso that I can find. > > Are there any of you with experience to share? All on this list are > invited - RSVP by e-mail if you plan to join us in this learning experience > and I will keep you informed as to details. > > Thanks > > Dale Tate > http://daletate.tripod.com/homepage.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Mon May 28 04:13:50 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Sun, 27 May 2001 21:13:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Sweet Corn Roast References: Message-ID: <3B11D07E.F8B540B1@qwest.net> Dale: In addition to that recipe I sent, you might want to contact the folks in Olathe, CO The following link will take you to the page regarding their annual sweet corn festival. At the bottom of the screen they have a "contact us" section. Perhaps they could give you some pointers on setting up your own festival. Just a thought. Here is that link: http://www.olathesweetcornfest.com/ Sue Bass Master Gardener Gilbert, AZ Dale Tate wrote: > Hello, > > I garden at a senior citizen's community garden sponsored by the City of El > Paso Parks and Recreation Department along with 89 other gardeners. I have > approximately 230 stalks of sweet corn at about 5% brush silk stage so will > start corn ear worn control tomorrow. > > Providing I can keep the worm out of the corn, I would like to provide a > corn roast for approximately 100 friends, neighbors, and associates on or > about 6 P.M. on June 23rd, 01. > > I am aware that "Annual Corn Roast " are popular events in many parts of the > country, usually fund raising affairs, however, My problem is that I have no > experience in roasting corn or staging a "Corn Roast". Neither does anyone > else in or around El Paso that I can find. > > Are there any of you with experience to share? All on this list are > invited - RSVP by e-mail if you plan to join us in this learning experience > and I will keep you informed as to details. > > Thanks > > Dale Tate > http://daletate.tripod.com/homepage.html > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From aliceh2000@hotmail.com Mon May 28 15:35:32 2001 From: aliceh2000@hotmail.com (aliceh2000@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 08:35:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105281535.f4SFZWN10989@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have been growing a dwarf navel orange tree in a large (24 inch) container for about 18 months. It is now about 3 feet high, has lots of new growth and seems to be doing well. I had one small orange develop, but it fell off when it was about a quarter size in diameter. I feed it with citrus fertilizer according to the label directions. I have two questions. What can I do to encourage fruit? Also, what do I need to do to ensure that the fruit rind is not thick and the fruit is sweet? Any suggestions you have would be apprectiated. From aliceh2000@hotmail.com Mon May 28 15:46:57 2001 From: aliceh2000@hotmail.com (aliceh2000@hotmail.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 08:46:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105281546.f4SFkvN11785@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I am growing roses in containers. They are facing west. I water them about twice a week for about 3 hours each time with a soaker hose and fertilize with Miracle Grow every other week. I have been spraying them with Immunox by Spectracide every 2 weeks which is supposed to prevent and cure various diseases on roses. Despite that, one of the roses has developed browning on the leaves. The entire leaf turns browns as if it is burned. What am I doing wrong and what can I do to get it healthy again. Thank you. From garryb19@home.com Mon May 28 16:09:20 2001 From: garryb19@home.com (garryb19@home.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 09:09:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105281609.f4SG9KN13693@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have bermudagrass heavily infested with spurge. Scotts Turf Builder plus weed control was used about 2 months ago with little effect. Email on the subject with Scotts brought a reply suggesting Ortho Weed-Be-Gon. Because we have ducks and geese feeding on our lawn daily I would like some reassurance that this chemical is not harmful to wildlife. If not I will use it. If it is then I ask your suggestions for ridding the lawn of spurge without harm to wildlife. Thanx From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 28 17:44:47 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 13:44:47 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Watering, Day or Night Message-ID: <7e.159c5133.2843e88f@aol.com> Brett, During the hot weather it is better to water at night or very early morning to minimise the amount of water lost to evaporation. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 28 18:03:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:03:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lawn, spurge weeds Message-ID: The ducks and geese eat the plant material, so I would be cautious in applying herbicides. Contact Ortho for details on the product's harm to birds. Since spurge is an annual weed that grows from a single taproot, I would try digging out as many plants a you can (one plant can cover a big area). Then keep the lawn as healthy as possible. A healthy lawn will crowd out weeds. I think the ducks and geese might eat the spurge as well. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: garryb19@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 09:09:20 -0700 (MST) > >I have bermudagrass heavily infested with spurge. Scotts Turf Builder plus >weed control was used about 2 months ago with little effect. Email on the >subject with Scotts brought a reply suggesting Ortho Weed-Be-Gon. Because >we have ducks and geese feeding on our lawn daily I would like some >reassurance that this chemical is not harmful to wildlife. If not I will >use it. If it is then I ask your suggestions for ridding the lawn of spurge >without harm to wildlife. > >Thanx > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Mon May 28 18:07:23 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 18:07:23 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses Message-ID: I don't grow roses, so I hope someone with more information will also answer. The symptoms you describe sound like salt burn. I would cut back on fertilizing and Spectracide for now. Keep the plants well- watered during the hot summer months. Our rose people have told me they water their container roses twice a day in June, but I don't know the size of your containers or how much the soil dries out between watering. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: aliceh2000@hotmail.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 08:46:57 -0700 (MST) > >I am growing roses in containers. They are facing west. I water them about >twice a week for about 3 hours each time with a soaker hose and fertilize >with Miracle Grow every other week. I have been spraying them with Immunox >by Spectracide every 2 weeks which is supposed to prevent and cure various >diseases on roses. Despite that, one of the roses has developed browning on >the leaves. The entire leaf turns browns as if it is burned. >What am I doing wrong and what can I do to get it healthy again. >Thank you. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From rcdemark@aol.com Mon May 28 18:34:25 2001 From: rcdemark@aol.com (rcdemark@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 11:34:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105281834.f4SIYPN26829@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is there a special thing about Vinca? I can transplant everything else, but with Vinca they seem to die a few days up to a few weeks. How about the watering also? From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 28 19:23:18 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:23:18 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Spurge, getting rid of Message-ID: <99.1579b665.2843ffa6@aol.com> Since Scotts recommended Weed-be Gon to kill spurge I would suggest that you ask them if the product will be harmful to animals. Spurge is difficult to kill, I use a preemergent weed killer that is applied in late winter which helps but isn't 100%. Then I start pulling. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 28 19:23:23 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:23:23 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Citrus not bearing fruit Message-ID: <43.15d895a8.2843ffab@aol.com> Citrus typically do not bear fruit until they have been in the ground for four to five years. The fruit will be less sweet if the tree is over fertilized and or over watered. A bulletin on Care of Citrus in the Home Garden is available for $1.00 from Maricopa County Cooperative Extension, 4341 E. Broadway, Phoenix 85040. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 28 19:23:25 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:23:25 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Red Bird of Paradise Message-ID: I would suspect that the chemicals in the pool water are causing the burned leaf tips on your Red Bird of Paradise. There are many plants that cannot handle pool water. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Mon May 28 19:23:22 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 15:23:22 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Roses with brown leaves Message-ID: Alice, If you are appling the Miracle Grow and or the Immunox any time except very early in the morning and about sundown the leaves could get burned. It is no longer necessary to apply the Immunox now that the temps are mostly over 100 degrees. Immunox is a fungicide used to prevent powdery mildew and fortunately for us when the temps are over 100 the mildew is no longer a problem. I would suggest that you use a granular rose fertilizer such Organo Rose Food every six weeks in addition to the Miracle Grow. The Miracle Grow works fine but it is flushed out of the root zone quite quickly. The brown leaves could be caused by salt or sun and wind burn. About once a month I would suggest doubling the amount of water for the roses to flush the salts out of the root zone. If we encounter temps that are in the 110 range increase your watering frequency to three times a week. Spider mites could also cause the leaves to brown. Hold a white sheet of paper under a cane while shaking it, if spider mites are present they will show up on the paper. Washing down your roses at least weekly with a strong spray of water will not only help to eliminate the mites but will help the roses through the hot weather. If that fails to dislodge the mites then you should use a mitecide. I'm enclosing an article that I coauthored recently on summer rose care. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Consulting Rosarian Roses by Marylou Coffman and Rod Mckusick The summer months are especially tough on roses, however, here are some tips to help them survive our hot weather. Roses need to be watered frequently and deeply. Water at least twice each week, and if they look stressed, water again. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also flush the salts below the root level. Roses in containers will have to be watered several times a week. As long as you have good soil, a combination of one-third native soil, one-third mulch and one-third sand, perlite, peat moss or pumice, you’ll have good drainage and you won’t over water. Roses also need to stay cool. Use three to four inches of good mulch around each rose bush. You can use compost, peat moss, forest mulch, straw or bark chips. This will not only keep the root’s cool, it will also conserve moisture, cut down on weeds and help too built a good healthy soil structure. Roses are heavy feeders and need some fertilizer during the hot summer. A slow release granular fertilizer is best. A slow release fertilizer usually last about six weeks. Use one-third to one-half cup for each standard size bush. Scatter the fertilizer around the drip line. Water well before and after each application to prevent burning the roots. You can also use a water soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle Grow, Peters or Magnum Grow, but this will need to be applied every two weeks. In the summer, use one-half the amount you would normally use. Again, water well before and after applying the fertilizer. Roses slow down during our hot months and produce smaller and fewer blooms. Cut off spent blooms, cut back to the first five-leaflet set, leave as much foliage as possible. The foliage will help to shade the bush. Watch for sucker growth, these are canes that come from below the bud union. They appear different from the other canes. Cut them off below the bud union. The hot dry weather will bring a variety of insects and diseases. Watch the lower leaves for spider mites. The lower leaves will be lighter and have a fuzzy appearance. The underside of the leaf will feel like sandpaper. The spider mites suck the juice from the underside of the leaf. To control them, remove the damaged foliage and use a strong spray of water every other day. If this does not take care of them, there are several effective miticides on the market. Remember to read and follow directions on the container. Aphids are the most common of the insects affecting roses. They can be green, brown or reddish brown. They suck the juices from the bush and leave a shindy sticky substance on the leaves. To get rid of them use a strong spray of water every day. Thrips are probably the most damaging of the insects. They are tiny, brownish yellow winged insects. You can barely see them. They enter the bud and eat on the flower petals, causing them to turn brown. The only way to control them is to spray the buds before they open with a good insecticide. Be sure to read and follow directions on the package. Leaf cutter bees will make semicircles in the rose leaves. They use the leaf circles to build their nests. The damage to the plant is minimal, and the bees important pollinators, so there is no need for control. Other problems to watch out for are nutrient deficiencies. The most common is iron deficiency. The leaves will be pale green or yellow with dark green veins. Add chelated iron (FE 138) according to package directions. Nitrogen deficiency is characterized by yellowing of the leave, reduced growth, weak and spindly stems. With a Potassium deficiency the older leaves will turn yellow and then brown, sometimes purple. New shoots will harden and stunted and flower buds may become distorted. Phosphorus deficiency will cause older leaves to drop without turning yellow, leaves appear dull grey-green and may cup down. Manganese deficiency is similar to iron chlorosis in that there is interveinal chlorosis. The small veins remain green with a netted appearance. Zinc deficiency causes new growth to stop and also causes distorted chlorotic leaves. These problems can all re corrected with a good rose fertilizer. Maintaining a good soil PH of 6.0 to 6.5 is ideal for growing good roses. The best way to take care of your roses this summer is to make sure they have enough water, mulch, light fertilizer and wash off the leaves and stems in the early morning with a strong spray of water at least twice a week. Be sure to get the underside of the leaf. This will keep the roses clean, increase the humidity and will help to control insects before they can cause any damage. Watch your roses throughout the summer. Keep them cool and well watered and they will reward you with beautiful blooms this fall. Marylou Coffman Master Gardener Consulting Rosarian Rod McKusick Master Gardener Consulting Rosarian Lucy K. Bradley Extension Agent, Urban Horticulture Maricopa County The University of Arizona Cooperative Extension 4341 E Broadway Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85040-8807 Phone: (602) 470-8086 ext 323 Fax: (602) 470-8092 email: BradleyL@ag.arizona.edu From k.bell@tesco.net Mon May 28 20:31:36 2001 From: k.bell@tesco.net (k.bell@tesco.net) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 13:31:36 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105282031.f4SKVaN07044@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Dear All, i live in the South West of England and have just bought a small Olive tree.Although i realise England is perhaps not the "ideal" location i'd very much appreciate it if anyone could point me in the right direction to find info on how to plant, care for and hopefully harvest some olives from my tree. At the moment the tree is about one foot high and has some very small fruit on it, i believe the variety is L'ALBERO DELLA PACE. Yours hopefully, K.Bell From lynn.newman@asu.edu Mon May 28 23:43:35 2001 From: lynn.newman@asu.edu (lynn.newman@asu.edu) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 16:43:35 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105282343.f4SNhZN22718@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have two questions. 1. I have planted a naval orange and a ruby red grapefruit plant in the yard. They have been in the ground for about 2-3 months. They are both showing new growth and both have some fruit. The leaves on the old growth have turned yellowish primarily down the center of the leaf or on one side and not the other. It is not chlorosis (I know what that looks like). The leaves have not been turning completely yellow, nor are they dropping any leaves. Can the leaves be affected by too much sun? 2. I have a couple of Bougainvillea that have very curly, almost shriveled leaves and flower bracts. Some of the growth on the plant looks normal. This seems to be affecting two of my 6 plants in the yard. One is near Oleanders and shaded a bit, but the other is not near Oleanders and gets plenty of sun. What is happening to my plants? Thanks for your help, Lynn Newman Scottsdale, AZ From johnsonkm@home.com Tue May 29 00:36:11 2001 From: johnsonkm@home.com (johnsonkm@home.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 17:36:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105290036.f4T0aBN26531@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have a fungus growing in the grass in our yard. It looks like a mass of sour cream and is cream colored with a tint of rust. When it dries, it has a black interior (spores?). What is this fungus and how do we get rid of it? Is there a way to keep the spores from germinating? Karl & Marilyn Johnson From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 29 01:20:19 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 21:20:19 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Vinca dying Message-ID: <89.7568a25.28445353@aol.com> Vinca is host to one of the water molds which cause the stem at the soil line of the vinca to shrink which shuts down the plant circulation system. It is not advisable to plant vinca in the same bed year after year or to follow pansy and petunias which are affected by a similiar fungi. There are chemical controls but are very expensive. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 29 01:33:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 21:33:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Pearl scale Message-ID: The latest on Pearl Scale control is available in an article by Terry Mikel at: http://ag.arizona.edu/gardening/news/azrepublic/pearlsc.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From starlene@uswest.net Tue May 29 14:15:32 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 07:15:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Please help identify this plant Message-ID: <001a01c0e849$d34142a0$5d8db4d1@uswest.net> http://www.geocities.com/conscioustar/leaf.html Can you help me identify this plant? The leaf is not this large, it is actually about 2"x 2". The plant looks like a huge bush. My neighbor cuts it down to just a stump at least twice a year and within 2-3 months it is taller than his mobile home. I would really love to know what it is, so I could get a few for my own yard for privacy. It looks like a mulberry leaf to me, but have never seen a mulberry bush. I live in the Phoenix area. -- Starlene mailto:starlene@qwest.net From naturopathicphy@pol.net Tue May 29 14:28:23 2001 From: naturopathicphy@pol.net (naturopathicphy@pol.net) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 07:28:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105291428.f4TESNB04900@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Your informnation on Chlorosis is informative but I am confused regarding the last two sentances under Management. It is stated that it is difficult to raise the pH in the soil. I thought one needed to lower the pH to make the availability of iron increase. Please confirm either your statement or my understanding. Thank you for your time and effort in making such a wonderful website available to we home gardeners. From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 29 14:35:23 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 14:35:23 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Plant ID, mulberry Message-ID: This looks like a mulberry to me. Linda >From: "Starlene Stewart" >To: Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Please help identify this plant >Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 07:15:32 -0700 > >http://www.geocities.com/conscioustar/leaf.html > >Can you help me identify this plant? The leaf is not this >large, it is actually about 2"x 2". The plant looks like a >huge bush. My neighbor cuts it down to just a stump at least >twice a year and within 2-3 months it is taller than his >mobile home. I would really love to know what it is, so >I could get a few for my own yard for privacy. > >It looks like a mulberry leaf to me, but have never seen a >mulberry bush. > >I live in the Phoenix area. > >-- >Starlene >mailto:starlene@qwest.net > > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 29 15:00:58 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:00:58 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Chlorosis, soil pH Message-ID: Iron is more readily available in soils that are not highly alkaline. Could you tell me which document you are referencing? I think you are correct that lowering the pH would make iron more available. Chelated iron is often recommended because it is more effective in alkaline soil. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: naturopathicphy@pol.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 07:28:23 -0700 (MST) > >Your informnation on Chlorosis is informative but I am confused regarding >the last two sentances under Management. It is stated that it is difficult >to raise the pH in the soil. I thought one needed to lower the pH to make >the availability of iron increase. Please confirm either your statement or >my understanding. Thank you for your time and effort in making such a >wonderful website available to we home gardeners. > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 29 15:04:17 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:04:17 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] slime mold Message-ID: This sounds like it could be slime mold, but if you can bring a sample to your nearest Extension Office it can probaly be positively identified. http://www.nps.gov/olym/microfauna/slimemold.htm "Slime molds possess both animal and plant like characteristics. They form three main groups, none of which are closely related. Most of their lives are spent as microscopic amoebas, some with flagella, roaming independently through the forest feeding on organic matter, bacteria, and other microscopic morsels. During food shortages, slime molds swarm and aggregate into an enormous single cell." http://plantclinic.cornell.edu/mushroom/slimemold/slimemold.htm "Slime molds belong to a class of fungi, the Myxomycetes, that is characterized by the production of relatively large, single-celled, multinucleate bodies called plasmodia (singular = plasmodium). Plasmodia are the feeding stages of slime molds, and they are frequently seen on lawns, small plants, mulch, and decaying wood in late summer. Slime molds are not plant parasites, but they may injure plants by covering and shading them." Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: johnsonkm@home.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Mon, 28 May 2001 17:36:11 -0700 (MST) > >We have a fungus growing in the grass in our yard. It looks like a mass of >sour cream and is cream colored with a tint of rust. When it dries, it has >a black interior (spores?). > >What is this fungus and how do we get rid of it? Is there a way to keep the >spores from germinating? > >Karl & Marilyn Johnson > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 14:55:03 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 07:55:03 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Uzbek melon seeds Message-ID: <007201c0e851$ad05b000$4551530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Please help identify this plant >Can you tell me where I can obtain Uzbek melon seeds? >A few years back, Smitty's markets carried the melons for two >years running, but I haven't seen them since, and I suspect >that our climate ought to be suitable for Central Asian crops. >Many thanks for your help, >Allen Meyer There is an exotic seeds newsgroup at http://www.seedman.com/exoticseeds/wwwboard.html might try posting your question there. Note it isn't the same site Sue Bass Mention (sideman not hyphenated) Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 15:01:06 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 08:01:06 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf References: <001a01c0e849$d34142a0$5d8db4d1@uswest.net> Message-ID: <007301c0e851$b1705d20$4551530c@j0r9501> Might be castor bean but it usually has larger leaves. See photo at http://chili.rt66.com/hrbmoore/Images/P-R/Ricinus_communis.jpg Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Starlene Stewart" > http://www.geocities.com/conscioustar/leaf.html > > Can you help me identify this plant? The leaf is not this > large, it is actually about 2"x 2". The plant looks like a > huge bush. My neighbor cuts it down to just a stump at least > twice a year and within 2-3 months it is taller than his > mobile home. I would really love to know what it is, so > I could get a few for my own yard for privacy. > > It looks like a mulberry leaf to me, but have never seen a > mulberry bush. > > I live in the Phoenix area. > > -- > Starlene > mailto:starlene@qwest.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 15:25:14 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 08:25:14 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: pH for Iron References: <200105291428.f4TESNB04900@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <007901c0e853$97f63ac0$4551530c@j0r9501> Iron is generally not available as a plant nutrient at soil reactions above pH 8 and availability increases as the pH is reduced. Availability is best at pH 6 or less. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 7:28 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page > Your informnation on Chlorosis is informative but I am confused regarding the last two sentances under Management. It is stated that it is difficult to raise the pH in the soil. I thought one needed to lower the pH to make the availability of iron increase. Please confirm either your statement or my understanding. Thank you for your time and effort in making such a wonderful website available to we home gardeners. From hmack1927@aol.com Tue May 29 18:57:22 2001 From: hmack1927@aol.com (hmack1927@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 11:57:22 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105291857.f4TIvMB00755@Ag.Arizona.Edu> When and how do you prune artichokes following harvest? From yasmin.yamat@sfx.com Tue May 29 19:25:05 2001 From: yasmin.yamat@sfx.com (yasmin.yamat@sfx.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 12:25:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105291925.f4TJP5B05985@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have trees in our complex that seem to shower our cars with sap. I'm thinking its a spring time occurance as it hasn't happened since we moved into our place last summer. How long can I expect to have a shower of sap fall on our cars? From sturico@home.com Tue May 29 20:20:01 2001 From: sturico@home.com (sturico@home.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:20:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105292020.f4TKK1B16091@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can I irrigate my lawn or any plants with backwash water from our swimming pool? From Silvirado@aol.com Tue May 29 20:37:21 2001 From: Silvirado@aol.com (Silvirado@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 16:37:21 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Arid_gardener digest, Vol 1 #118 - 19 msgs Message-ID: I was very surprised to read your recommendation of even 1/2 strength Miracle Grow in the summer months. I was under the impression that Miracle Grow would cause severe leaf burn in heat above 90 degrees. I just moved here from SoCal, where ARS members do not recommend Miracle Grow type fertilizers be applied in the heat, and the local Arizona chapter that I attended seemed to back up this advice. I am curious as to how long you have been doing this and are you growing your roses with shade cloth or in full sun? Ht type roses or OGR's? I do not post the above for the sake of argument, just want to grow the best roses that I can in the desert! Suzanne Silvir Gilbert From starlene@uswest.net Tue May 29 21:07:25 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 14:07:25 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf References: <001a01c0e849$d34142a0$5d8db4d1@uswest.net> <007301c0e851$b1705d20$4551530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <004d01c0e883$5e67e1c0$76cae13f@uswest.net> Hi Olin and Linda, thanks for the responses. I have a question, if it were castor bean, wouldn't it produce castor beans? Ditto on the mulberry, wouldn't there be mulberries whether a male or female tree? I've never seen anything but leaves on it. Could that be because the guy cuts it down so often? And it's not like any tree I've ever seen. Thanks again, Starlene ----- Original Message ----- From: "olin" To: "Starlene Stewart" ; "Arid_Gardener List" Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:01 AM Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf > Might be castor bean but it usually has larger leaves. See photo at > http://chili.rt66.com/hrbmoore/Images/P-R/Ricinus_communis.j pg > Olin > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Starlene Stewart" > > > http://www.geocities.com/conscioustar/leaf.html > > > > Can you help me identify this plant? The leaf is not this > > large, it is actually about 2"x 2". The plant looks like a > > huge bush. My neighbor cuts it down to just a stump at least > > twice a year and within 2-3 months it is taller than his > > mobile home. I would really love to know what it is, so > > I could get a few for my own yard for privacy. > > > > It looks like a mulberry leaf to me, but have never seen a > > mulberry bush. > > > > I live in the Phoenix area. > > > > -- > > Starlene > > mailto:starlene@qwest.net > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > From cenalmor@yahoo.com Tue May 29 20:49:31 2001 From: cenalmor@yahoo.com (Barbara Cenalmor) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 13:49:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Arid_gardener] ID tree Message-ID: <20010529204931.69096.qmail@web13902.mail.yahoo.com> I was wondering if anybody could tell me the name of a tree I saw yesterday on Dobson rd. I didn't get a chance to see the shape of the leaves since I was driving, but the flowers look just like a lavender plant, and so does the color of the flowers. Any idea? Barbara __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 21:55:00 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 14:55:00 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf References: <001a01c0e849$d34142a0$5d8db4d1@uswest.net> <007301c0e851$b1705d20$4551530c@j0r9501> <004d01c0e883$5e67e1c0$76cae13f@uswest.net> Message-ID: <001601c0e88c$33775d20$a550530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Starlene Stewart" >... > > I have a question, if it were castor bean, wouldn't it > produce castor beans? Yes - Given enough time. > Ditto on the mulberry, wouldn't there > be mulberries whether a male or female tree? Not necessarily - there ae fruitless cultivars. Not to belabor the obvious. But have you asked your neighbor what it is? Olin > > I've never seen anything but leaves on it. Could that be > because the guy cuts it down so often? And it's not like > any tree I've ever seen. > > Thanks again, > Starlene > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "olin" > To: "Starlene Stewart" ; "Arid_Gardener > List" > Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2001 8:01 AM > Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf > > > > Might be castor bean but it usually has larger leaves. > See photo at > > > http://chili.rt66.com/hrbmoore/Images/P-R/Ricinus_communis.j > pg > > Olin > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Starlene Stewart" > > > > > > http://www.geocities.com/conscioustar/leaf.html > > > > > > Can you help me identify this plant? The leaf is not > this > > > large, it is actually about 2"x 2". The plant looks like > a > > > huge bush. My neighbor cuts it down to just a stump at > least > > > twice a year and within 2-3 months it is taller than his > > > mobile home. I would really love to know what it is, so > > > I could get a few for my own yard for privacy. > > > > > > It looks like a mulberry leaf to me, but have never seen > a > > > mulberry bush. > > > > > > I live in the Phoenix area. > > > > > > -- > > > Starlene > > > mailto:starlene@qwest.net > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Arid_gardener mailing list > > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener > > > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 22:02:23 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:02:23 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page References: <200105291857.f4TIvMB00755@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <001701c0e88c$37f459c0$a550530c@j0r9501> Cut off at soil level when the leaves die back, then cover with mulch. See also http://www.artichokes.net/allabout.html Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: > When and how do you prune artichokes following harvest? From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 22:15:01 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:15:01 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Trees Dropping Sap References: <200105291925.f4TJP5B05985@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <003101c0e88d$368e44a0$a550530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > We have trees in our complex that seem to shower our cars with sap. I'm thinking its a spring time occurance as it hasn't happened since we moved into our place last summer. How long can I expect to have a shower of sap fall on our cars? What kind of trees? Pecan trees, for example, will drop sap from aphid infestation when there are succulent leaves on the tree and the pest is not controlled. -Olin From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 29 22:17:48 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:17:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Water From Swimming Pool on Lawn References: <200105292020.f4TKK1B16091@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <003201c0e88d$3ae9af80$a550530c@j0r9501> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Can I irrigate my lawn or any plants with backwash water from our swimming pool? Probably not a good idea due to high chlorine content of pool water. -Olin From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 29 22:24:04 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:24:04 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] ID tree Message-ID: <9e.1519b56f.28457b84@aol.com> Barbara, Chances are good that the tree with the lavender flowers is a Jacaranda. Desert Willow and Vitex are also in bloom now but neither are as colorful as the Jacaranda. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Tue May 29 22:24:06 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 18:24:06 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] pH effect on soils Message-ID: <82.b3a07ca.28457b86@aol.com> The Master Gardener Manual chapter on Soils has an excellent discussion on the effect that the pH has on the availability of many nutrients including a chart that shows that the availability of iron decreases below a pH of 5.0 and above 7.0. All this is on line at: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#soil http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/index.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From sjbass@qwest.net Tue May 29 22:26:50 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 15:26:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] vitex agnus-castus (monk's pepper tree) References: <20010529204931.69096.qmail@web13902.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B14222A.13AE3A85@qwest.net> Perhaps what you are seeing is a Vitex agnus-castus, also known as Monk's Pepper Tree or Chaste tree. You can view a picture of the flowers and a description at: http://www.streetside.com/plants/floridata/ref/v/vitex_a.htm Sue Bass Master Gardener Barbara Cenalmor wrote: > I was wondering if anybody could tell me the name of a > tree I saw yesterday on Dobson rd. I didn't get a > chance to see the shape of the leaves since I was > driving, but the flowers look just like a lavender > plant, and so does the color of the flowers. > Any idea? > > Barbara > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From starlene@uswest.net Wed May 30 00:25:16 2001 From: starlene@uswest.net (Starlene Stewart) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 17:25:16 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: ID Plant From Photo of Leaf References: <001a01c0e849$d34142a0$5d8db4d1@uswest.net> <007301c0e851$b1705d20$4551530c@j0r9501> <004d01c0e883$5e67e1c0$76cae13f@uswest.net> <001601c0e88c$33775d20$a550530c@j0r9501> Message-ID: <001f01c0e89f$00caaae0$dc84b5d1@uswest.net> Hi Olin, > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Starlene Stewart" > Not to belabor the obvious. But have you asked your neighbor what it is? LOL, yes I have. When I asked for the leaf the other night he told me if I found out what it was I had to tell him. Ironically, he owns his own landscaping business... Thanks again, Starlene From kiheikarin@aol.com Wed May 30 02:34:53 2001 From: kiheikarin@aol.com (kiheikarin@aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 19:34:53 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105300234.f4U2YrB14858@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Aloha, We are relocating from the Hawaiian islands on June 25 and will be moving to Maricopa county. My husband has worked in the landscaping industry for the past 22 years and we are trying to secure a job for him before we get there. I am attaching his resume if you would be so kind as to forward it to a few of the major local landscape companies I would appreciate it so very much. Or, if you can just point us in the right direction as to who might be hiring a landscape foreman / supervisor with a lot of experience. I thank you so much, Karin McLeod PHILLIP MCLEOD OBJECTIVE I am seeking a full time position as a Landscape / Irrigation Supervisor with a well established company. I am very willing to relocate within the United States. I have been in the landscaping business for 22 years and have owned and operated my own landscape company with personnel.. I am highly knowledgeable about all phases of landscape construction,, including; design, irrigation, planting, lighting, landscape pest control, and commercial and HOA maintenance. EXPERIENCE 2 / 2001-present Kahana Sunset Lahaina, Hawaii Landscape Supervisor  All aspects of Landscape construction including irrigation, planting, maintenance and resort beautification 1978�2001 McLeod Landscape Oceanside, California Landscape Contractor  All aspects of Landscaping including irrigation, design and reading of blueprint plans, planting, maintenance, concrete, patio covers, lighting, and much more  Have performed all Landscape estimates and sales  Have maintained large HOA housing communities, condominiums, and commercial properties  I have done a great deal of work for large property management companies  Have also handled government contracts ADDITIONAL PROFESSIONAL CREDENTIALS In 1991 I became a professional business owner. I acquired my California State Contractors License , and also obtained a license in Landscape Pest Control . I can provide as many references as you would need, business and personal. INTERESTS 16 PUAMANA PLACE � LAHAINA, HAWAII -96761 � PHONE (808) 665-1418 I thoroughly enjoy my work. I like working outside and working with the land. The most important thing in my life is my wife and my boys. I am involved with our Church, and I am Assistant Pack Leader for my boys cub scout pack. I love to fish, surf, and go camping with my family. E-MAIL KIHEIPHILLIP@AOL.COM From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 30 15:21:54 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 08:21:54 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Job Opportunities References: <200105300234.f4U2YrB14858@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3B151011.C1A0DFAF@qwest.net> Karin: I wish I could help you but this list is strictly for answering homeowner's gardening questions. I can point you to a page on our website which lists job opportunities. You and your husband may want to take a look there. You can visit this site by going to: http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pros/pro.htm Good Luck! Sue Bass Master Gardener kiheikarin@aol.com wrote: > Aloha, > We are relocating from the Hawaiian islands on June 25 and will be moving to Maricopa county. My husband has worked in the landscaping industry for the past 22 years and we are trying to secure a job for him before we get there. I am attaching his resume if you would be so kind as to forward it to a few of the major local landscape companies I would appreciate it so very much. Or, if you can just point us in the right direction as to who might be hiring a landscape foreman / supervisor with a lot of experience. I thank you so much, > > Karin McLeod > > PHILLIP MCLEOD > > OBJECTIVE > I am seeking a full time position as a Landscape / Irrigation Supervisor with a well established company. I am very willing to relocate within the United States. I have been in the landscaping business for 22 years and have owned and operated my own landscape company with personnel.. I am highly knowledgeable about all phases of landscape construction,, including; design, irrigation, planting, lighting, landscape pest control, and commercial and HOA maintenance. > EXPERIENCE > 2 / 2001-present > Kahana Sunset Lahaina, Hawaii > Landscape Supervisor >  All aspects of Landscape construction including irrigation, planting, maintenance and resort beautification > 1978�2001 > McLeod Landscape Oceanside, California > Landscape Contractor >  All aspects of Landscaping including irrigation, design and reading of blueprint plans, planting, maintenance, concrete, patio covers, lighting, and much more >  Have performed all Landscape estimates and sales >  Have maintained large HOA housing communities, condominiums, and commercial properties >  I have done a great deal of work for large property management companies >  Have also handled government contracts > ADDITIONAL PROFESSIONAL CREDENTIALS > In 1991 I became a professional business owner. I acquired my California State Contractors License , and also obtained a license in Landscape Pest Control . I can provide as many references as you would need, business and personal. > INTERESTS > 16 PUAMANA PLACE � LAHAINA, HAWAII -96761 � PHONE (808) 665-1418 > I thoroughly enjoy my work. I like working outside and working with the land. The most important thing in my life is my wife and my boys. I am involved with our Church, and I am Assistant Pack Leader for my boys cub scout pack. I love to fish, surf, and go camping with my family. > > > E-MAIL KIHEIPHILLIP@AOL.COM > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 30 16:10:53 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 09:10:53 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Re: pH for Iron References: <200105301333.JAA23874@web1.po.com> Message-ID: <006501c0e923$1fa666a0$7c51530c@j0r9501> Not. Are we reading the same post? I do not see anything in the post about altering pH, only the condition for optimum iron absorption. Our unamended desert soil tends to be about pH 7.5 or higher. Therefore the pH must be lowered for non-native plants to absorb iron effectively. About the lowest you can get here with reasonable effort is pH 7 to 7.5 where iron absorption is reasonably good, but you can get it down to some lower pH if you work at it. Optimum pH range nutrient absorption and growth for most non-desert plants is acidic - pH 5 to pH 7. But our native desert plants do okay at alkaline pH up to and above 8.0. My comments regarding nutrient availability as a function of pH are based on a graphic in the "Western Fertilizer Handbook" referenced at http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/library/ref-grdn.htm which shows maximum availability at pH 6 and less and tapering down to nearly zero at pH 8.5 There are also similar online graphics such as the one at http://www.pedosphere.com/contents.cfm#7 (click on " 7.7 Nutrient Availability"), q.v. which also shows Fe availability is best at lower pH. But none of the graphics show scaling - only relative availability. There is also a graphic in the MG Manual http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/soils/images/p19large.gif which shows the optimum availability for Fe between pH 5 and pH 7. It may be interesting to discuss nutrient availability at medium and strong acid pH below 5.0 and 6.0 in which case it would be necessary to raise the pH, but it is not a situation one is likely to encounter in the low desert Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Gear Jr." To: "olin" Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 6:33 AM Subject: Re: Re: pH for Iron > Thank you for your clarification regarding my understanding. I > suggest you rewrite the sentances in question as they are currently > written stating pH must be raised to make iron more available. > > > > ------------------ Reply Separator -------------------- > Originally From: "olin" > Subject: Re: pH for Iron > Date: 05/29/2001 08:25am > > > Iron is generally not available as a plant nutrient at soil reactions > above > pH 8 and availability increases as the pH is reduced. Availability is > best > at pH 6 or less. -Olin From gnk@futureone.com Wed May 30 17:22:19 2001 From: gnk@futureone.com (gnk@futureone.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:22:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105301722.f4UHMJB29837@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can anyone tell me if it is possible to clip an Oleander stem and rest it in water and have it grow roots? You know, like you can with some plants? I've not known of this to be possibel, however; my neighbors and I just clipped some today and are going to try it. I just I'd ask in case anyone knew we were waisting our time. Thanks a bunch, Littlefoot From phg@citieswestpub.com Wed May 30 18:02:21 2001 From: phg@citieswestpub.com (phg@citieswestpub.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 11:02:21 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105301802.f4UI2LB07194@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I bought some waxleaf privet for the front on my house, which has a northern exposure. In winter the area gets very little sun, but in summer, it seems to be sunny almost all the time. Will this be too hot a location for it? If yes, where would be the best place to plant waxleaf privet? From paddyb1@home.com Wed May 30 19:16:44 2001 From: paddyb1@home.com (paddyb1@home.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 12:16:44 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105301916.f4UJGiB20425@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I'm a UofAz alumn - class of '69; my younger son is class of '99. I grow tomatoes. I've had best luck w/Early Girl, Cherry & Sweet 100's here. However, I remember years ago, there was some research that was going on to develop more drought-resistant varieties of tomato plants for here in the desert. Are there any varieties which do better in the valley than the above? If so, where can I buy some for next year? Thanks - Go 'Cats!!! From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 30 20:04:16 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:04:16 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander cuttings Message-ID: I have not tried rooting oleander cuttings. I checked a couple of reference books and sounds like it is possible. One suggests rooting 3-inch greenwood cuttings directly in pots in a humid environment. Bottom heating speeds rooting, in 3-6 weeks. Cuttings also root in water. Good luck!! Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: gnk@futureone.com >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 10:22:19 -0700 (MST) > >Can anyone tell me if it is possible to clip an Oleander stem and rest it >in water and have it grow roots? You know, like you can with some plants? >I've not known of this to be possibel, however; my neighbors and I just >clipped some today and are going to try it. I just I'd ask in case anyone >knew we were waisting our time. Thanks a bunch, Littlefoot > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Wed May 30 20:24:27 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 13:24:27 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander cuttings References: Message-ID: <3B1556FB.79EC1EB0@AuroraNow.org> > One suggests > rooting 3-inch greenwood cuttings directly > in pots in a humid environment. I haven't tried oleander, either, but I've had good luck with other greenwood/softwood cuttings using regular cactus mix as the medium (good drainage is important for cuttings). I dip the end in a rooting hormone, stick it in the medium then put a plastic bag (like a gallon-size zip loc) over the top to keep the moisture in and keep soil damp until established (when new growth starts appearing). I had to prune off a couple odd branches from a bottle brush and they're still green and happy after 2 weeks, so I'm hopeful for them, too. Never did get my brittlebush cuttings to take, though. My mother had heard something about doing cuttings on gray/green desert-adapted leaf plants, that one needs to use a specific type of rooting hormone (it was a number, like #3 or #5 rooting hormone?). I've only seen the regular stuff. Does anyone know anything about this? -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: (520) 578-2801 || on AOL Instant Messenger: AuroraS2 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 30 20:51:31 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:51:31 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Olives, growing in England Message-ID: <66.f8f9545.2846b753@aol.com> Olives are native to Asia Minor and thrive in countries around the Mediterranean as well as California and southern Arizona. I suspect that your climate is much too cool to grow the olive tree. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 30 20:51:34 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:51:34 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Italian Cypress with drooping branches Message-ID: <43.15f3dca0.2846b756@aol.com> Mike, The Italian Cypress doesn't require much water, but if you live in the low desert I would suggest deep watering at least once a month. Lack of adequate water may be your problem. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From shirley35@gilabend.net Wed May 30 21:11:01 2001 From: shirley35@gilabend.net (shirley35@gilabend.net) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:11:01 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105302111.f4ULB1B12098@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Lizards are eating the flowers in my flower bed. How do I stop this damage? From margi@ukgateway.com Wed May 30 21:33:10 2001 From: margi@ukgateway.com (margi@ukgateway.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:33:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105302133.f4ULXAB16549@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is it true that someone could kill a tree with a copper nail? if not, how could one do this? From millero@worldnet.att.net Wed May 30 21:51:31 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:51:31 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: Tomatoes Varieties for the Valley References: <200105301916.f4UJGiB20425@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <006e01c0e952$b2aac520$b150530c@j0r9501> The 3 types you mention are all still pretty reliable but Early Girl seems to have lost some of its vigor the past few years. Most cherry tomatoes are good producers. Sungold, a relatively new indeterminate cherry type is exceptional but rather small. Last year it was still producing tomatoes in July. As of right now, it is still forming new blossoms and setting fruit (under 50 % shade cloth) although conventional wisdom tells us fruit set stops at daytime temps above the low to mid 90s. Celebrity often produces nice, large tomatoes if the growing season is long enough - it's considered a mid season variety. Roma, a determinate paste type, is also pretty reliable. Patio, a 2-inch tomato does well in containers as well as in the garden. Heatwave has been touted as a hot weather variety but results have been disappointing. You can also get a few large tomatoes from the Big Boy, Big Girl, Better Boy, Whopper types but fruit set is usually pretty thin. Timing the planting is very critical for tomatoes. The spring planting window is only about 2-4 weeks and it moves a bit depending on whether it is an early or late spring. And the length of the spring growing season, which is always short, may also vary by a month or more. Thus tomato varieties that performed well one year may bomb out the next year and vice versa. I'd suggest perusing seed catalogs (look for short season types) from reliable companies like Tomato Growers Supply or Johnny's or Chuck Wyatts online catalog at http://www.heirloomtomatoes.net/Hotweth.html I am not aware of the results of any controlled research to identify adapted varieties nor am I aware of any farms growing tomatoes commercially in the valley. Maybe someone else could add to this. Olin ----- Original Message -----From: > I'm a UofAz alumn - class of '69; > my younger son is class of '99. > I grow tomatoes. I've had best luck > w/Early Girl, Cherry & Sweet 100's here. > However, I remember years ago, there > was some research that was going on > to develop more drought-resistant > varieties of tomato plants for here in > the desert. > Are there any varieties which do better > in the valley than the above? > If so, where can I buy some for next year? > Thanks - Go 'Cats!!! From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 30 22:01:01 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:01:01 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Oleander cuttings Message-ID: I've had excellent luck starting oleanders from cuttings. Just follow the instructions others have given you on line. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 30 22:01:03 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 18:01:03 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Wax leaf Privet Message-ID: Wax leaf Privvet is not a good choice for full summer sun in our low desert. Not only that but it is very susceptable to Texas Root Rot. Plants for Dry Climates says to avoid intense reflected heat and mid day sun. If you must plant it the east side of the house would be the best location where you would have afternoon shade. Good luck Rod McKusick Master Gardener From drew_linda@hotmail.com Wed May 30 23:12:07 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 23:12:07 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Lizards Message-ID: iguana lizards are vegetarians (eat plants), almost all other lizards feed on insects, spiders and worms. Lizards are great to have in your garden because they help control insects. I suspect that something else is eating the flowers and that the lizards are on patrol doing insect control in the garden. Can you give us more information about how and when the flowers are being eaten? A number of birds eat flowers; some insects eat flowers. Let's try and figure out what is causing the damage. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: shirley35@gilabend.net >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page >Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 14:11:01 -0700 (MST) > >Lizards are eating the flowers in my flower bed. How do I stop this >damage? > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From mishelle@usscreen.com Wed May 30 23:51:41 2001 From: mishelle@usscreen.com (Mishelle Fresener) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 16:51:41 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Different Cantaloupes on one plant? Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20010530164515.026d0c00@usscreen.com> Hello, I have three Cantaloupe vines, all have produced fruit and are doing well. One vine has three different looking fruits on it. One has the "netting" look I'd expect. One is much larger (although it started growing last) and while ribbed, it is smooth with no netting and light green while the others are dark. The last is smaller and smooth with no netting, but dark. I think this is just plain weird. Anybody have any type of explanation? Thanks, Mishelle in Tempe From GrdnrnAZ@aol.com Thu May 31 03:57:14 2001 From: GrdnrnAZ@aol.com (GrdnrnAZ@aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 May 2001 20:57:14 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105310357.f4V3vDB06642@Ag.Arizona.Edu> My citrus has looked sort of yellow lately-some from sunburn, some from what they tell me is chlorosis. I applied Iron Chelate last month and have been told that lowering the ph would also be helpful. Whick is better in lowering ph -dry soil sulfur or that stuf called dispersul? They carry soil sulfur at the hardware store, but where do they carry dispersul and how long do either of them take to work? From wimpy@epix.net Thu May 31 12:25:03 2001 From: wimpy@epix.net (wimpy@epix.net) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 05:25:03 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105311225.f4VCP2B21629@Ag.Arizona.Edu> how to control cut worm in mid-east? From jennaz31@aol.com Thu May 31 14:45:40 2001 From: jennaz31@aol.com (jennaz31@aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 07:45:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105311445.f4VEjeB03899@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I have 2 Pindo Palms in my backyard. They have been in the ground for nearly a year and are producing new foliage; my problem is that one is a beautiful dark olive green color and the other is more of a spring green color. I have read the article on desert palms, I have applied a specialized palm fertilizer as well as chelated iron and I cannot get the lighter colored one to darken in color. Does any one have any suggestions? I am watering 5 hours once every 7 days. Thanks in advance. Jenn From rspaxson@worldnet.att.net Thu May 31 15:40:27 2001 From: rspaxson@worldnet.att.net (rspaxson@worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 08:40:27 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105311540.f4VFeRB12056@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have been in AZ only 10 months and have received different information on when to prune my plants and schrubs. I have two types of sage plants and also oly anders , and bogies. I apologize but dont know how to spell boguanvila(?). I can not put my hands on the 2 plant books I purchased for this area at the moment to look up the spelling. Hope this is close enough. Unfortunately the books I have do not cover plant problems or prunning. I did prune my sage plants in Oct but they struggled through winter and lost three of them this Spring. Thank you for your help. From rjezeski@aol.com Thu May 31 19:00:29 2001 From: rjezeski@aol.com (rjezeski@aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:00:29 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105311900.f4VJ0SB18048@Ag.Arizona.Edu> a few weeks ago I had all kinds of small grapefruit growing on my tree, today when I looked there was only a few left,there was a lot of small dark hard shells left. what happened and must I do something to prevent this problem. the tree is in the ground for two years and was four years old when planted i also have a wrap around the trunk and fertilize three times a year and deep water twice a month thank you From shbhanda@wharton.upenn.edu Thu May 31 19:58:30 2001 From: shbhanda@wharton.upenn.edu (shbhanda@wharton.upenn.edu) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 12:58:30 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105311958.f4VJwUB29442@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hi, I was looking for a comprehensive list of community gardens in the phoenix area. I know there is one on this web site, but it is over two years old and i don't think it has most of them. Thanks. shawn From umiller@azdps.com Thu May 31 23:48:32 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 16:48:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Pruning In-Reply-To: <200105311540.f4VFeRB12056@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: According to Johnson's Guide to Pruning and Planting in the Arid West, you can prune oleander during warm weather - "This exposes interior of plants to sunlight, stimulating new flowering wood. Do not prune into globes or squares. Avoid shearing." bougainvillea (I used to win spelling bees) - should be pruned 2-3 times a year to keep it under control. February and July are good months, but make sure that danger of frost has passed when you prune it in February. Sage - depends on the type. What kind do you have? Ursula Miller Not a Master Gardener -----Original Message----- From: arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu [mailto:arid_gardener-admin@Ag.Arizona.Edu]On Behalf Of rspaxson@worldnet.att.net Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2001 8:40 AM To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page I have been in AZ only 10 months and have received different information on when to prune my plants and schrubs. I have two types of sage plants and also oly anders , and bogies. I apologize but dont know how to spell boguanvila(?). I can not put my hands on the 2 plant books I purchased for this area at the moment to look up the spelling. Hope this is close enough. Unfortunately the books I have do not cover plant problems or prunning. I did prune my sage plants in Oct but they struggled through winter and lost three of them this Spring. Thank you for your help. _______________________________________________ Arid_gardener mailing list Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From umiller@azdps.com Tue May 1 02:30:11 2001 From: umiller@azdps.com (Ursula Miller) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 19:30:11 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Drooping Oleanders Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0D1AB.F922E3C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I posted the question abut drooping oleanders a while ago and there was some discussion, but nobody seemed to know exactly why oleanders might do this - if they're given adequate water. So I went on the web and found another poor soul somewhere out there who had posed the same question on another gardening group. She said that she was told that the plant might have been in the pot too long at the nursery and was deprived of nitrogen which would have caused the plant to become leggy and droop. Does this make sense? I ended up cutting back the droopy canes and they are now sprouting new growth which will make the plant bushier, I hope, and should actually make it look nicer. But I wonder about the nitrogen story. Ursula Miller ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01C0D1AB.F922E3C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="Windows-1252" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does this make = sense? =20

Ursula Miller

	Recently, I bought a while calla lily in a pot and was surprised to read on the care instructions that it is a bog plant. To test this out, I put it on a ledge in my pond and it is doing well, blooming almost constantly. I believe the Sunset Western Gardening Book also give the info that it is a bog plant so the person having a problem with her calla might want to try more water. Pat

So I decided to call the DBG hotline, only to speak with someone who had just killed hers! Talk about getting some great advice from not so master gardeners!

The source at the DBG chuckled when she opened her ultimate book on euphorbias and read something along the lines of 'everyone wants a magic formula for watering euphorbias.'

Good luck, and sorry it took so long for me to track this down for you. I just always seem to be with a client during the one hour per week day when the DBG takes calls from the public!

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener

June_Harris wrote:

Can you help me find out more on how to care for and propogate my euphorbia trigona? Any help or direction to help would be very much appreciated. June HarrisJune_Harris@MSN.com

There is a= very large saguaro in our neighborhood in NW

Tucson tha= t is leaning over quite heavily, and looks like it

is in dange= r of falling over - a hazardous situation since

it is on a str= eet corner. Is there someone in Tucson to

call for saguaro res= cue in such a situation?

Don Ga= rnett

G= et your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com

Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at >http://explorer.msn.com

Sue Bass

Master Gardener

j.wildenbud@worldnet.att.net wrote:

How do I plant sweet potatoes,special tips,fertilizer etc. Thanks June
_______________________________________________
Arid_gardener mailing list
Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu
http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener

--------------2A00AD3EE22798162C569A13-- From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Mon May 7 21:36:12 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 14:36:12 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? In-Reply-To: <200105071909.f47J9cb27973@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, from 30 to 80%.) jk From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 01:39:51 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 01:39:51 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? Message-ID: I have always heard 62% to 68% shade cloth for summer gardens. I'm interested in what others recommend. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Jonathan Kandell >To: >Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? >Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 14:36:12 -0700 > >What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes >during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, >from 30 to 80%.) > >jk > >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From vochopz@prodigy.net Tue May 8 03:22:40 2001 From: vochopz@prodigy.net (vochopz@prodigy.net) Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 20:22:40 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105080322.f483Meb18988@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I own a yucca strata. It is not looking healthy at all. It is slowly turning brown and loosing its lower fronts. It is planted in a pot. Does this has anything to do with it? Please respond back. I do not want to lose it, it is a very nice one. From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue May 8 04:01:13 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:01:13 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] a couple oddities. References: Message-ID: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> Hi all, I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base (mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From millero@worldnet.att.net Tue May 8 05:09:52 2001 From: millero@worldnet.att.net (olin) Date: Mon, 7 May 2001 22:09:52 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? References: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <009301c0d77f$7b30fb80$8151530c@j0r9501> I use 50% for tomatoes in NW Phoenix. Sometimes also shade peppers. Don't know if that would also be appropriate for Tucson. -Olin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonathan Kandell" > What percentage rating for shade cloth do I use to shelter my tomatoes > during June and July in Tucson AZ? (It comes in different percentages, > from 30 to 80%.) From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 13:26:05 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 13:26:05 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? Message-ID: Sherryl, I noticed bugs on my brittlebush, too. When I checked them out they appear to be lace bugs (not the green lace wings, but a scking insect that starts out dark and turns white as it matures. Never seen them on this plant before. Linda Drew Master Gardener >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >Subject: [Arid_gardener] a couple oddities. >Date: Mon, 07 May 2001 21:01:13 -0700 > >Hi all, >I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of >variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it >is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe >started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base >(mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this >mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it >since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 >small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. > >Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* >seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really >tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just >some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). > >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. > >Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller >_______________________________________________ >Arid_gardener mailing list >Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu >http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From drew_linda@hotmail.com Tue May 8 14:54:29 2001 From: drew_linda@hotmail.com (Linda Drew) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 14:54:29 -0000 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? Message-ID: Sherryl, Lace bugs have the potential to weaken the plant. I'm just watching mine at the moment to see if any beneficial insects show up. My books recommend spraying with a superior horticultural oil such as Sunspray Ultrafine Oil. (2 1/2 tablespoons of oil mixed with water to make one gallon; irrigate plants well before treatment; don't apply at temps above 85; slightly toxic to humans and other mammals). Linda >From: Sherryl Stalinski >To: Linda Drew >Subject: Re: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? >Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 07:13:31 -0700 > >Linda, >do you think these little white suckers (!) are something I should worry >about? Should I spray the plants do you think? >-- >Sherryl Stalinski >Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org >For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological >community. > >Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 >===================================================== >"I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From s2@AuroraNow.org Tue May 8 15:03:32 2001 From: s2@AuroraNow.org (Sherryl Stalinski) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 08:03:32 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] lace bug? References: Message-ID: <3AF80AC4.2FB5F04B@AuroraNow.org> > don't apply at temps above 85; Ha! Well that will be around October, so I guess I'll just watch them and wash 'em off occasionally. I've noticed, by the way, that my 3 tecoma stans seem to be ladybug magnets. I see at least 2-3 ladybugs a day on them... but they haven't hopped over to the brittlebush to help it out. Maybe I should start some sweet peas to get some mantis' back in the loop. -- Sherryl Stalinski Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological community. Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 ===================================================== "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " --R. Buckminster Fuller From jkandell@email.arizona.edu Tue May 8 16:41:49 2001 From: jkandell@email.arizona.edu (Jonathan Kandell) Date: Tue, 08 May 2001 09:41:49 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] What % shade cloth? In-Reply-To: <009301c0d77f$7b30fb80$8151530c@j0r9501> References: <4.2.2.20010507143447.01a38100@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010508093936.0182f660@jkandell.inbox.email.arizona.edu> >I use 50% for tomatoes in NW Phoenix. Sometimes also shade peppers. Don't >know if that would also be appropriate for Tucson. -Olin Thanks Olin. By the way, why is it that peppers are so much more sensitive to heat than tomatoes? I would thought the opposite, but I've needed to water my peppers almost every day, whereas tomatoes still getting by with weekly. Leaves of pepper almost always seem to be wiliting, and they suffer immediately from lack of water. jk From auntiekoo@home.com Tue May 8 21:07:25 2001 From: auntiekoo@home.com (auntiekoo@home.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 14:07:25 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105082107.f48L7Pb07275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Hello -- we are new Arizona vegetable gardeners! Also, we want to participate in the plant a row for the homeless program. What, if anything, can we grow in the summer? We've got partial sun and full sun areas. Thanks for any information, Karen From Krulich@aol.com Wed May 9 01:47:51 2001 From: Krulich@aol.com (Krulich@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 21:47:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleander problem Message-ID: <64.ddd16cf.2829fbc7@aol.com> I have a question regarding my oleanders. They are looking really bad right now. A lot of the leaves are turning yellow, which I know happens every year and I get nervous every time it happens. ;) It seems like only my oleanders are looking bad right now. The ones in town look great, full of green leaves and flowers. Am I not watering them enough? I last watered them a little more than a month ago, and maybe again a month and a half before that. They are really large, old oleanders. They're not dying, they just don't look good. What gets me is that I have a few oleanders that I haven't watered since...maybe August 2000 and they actually look better than the ones they I water regularly. They're not getting water from any other source either, and they've got quite a few flowers. Any ideas what's going on? Thanks, Tom From cbp87@home.com Wed May 9 03:26:20 2001 From: cbp87@home.com (cbp87@home.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 20:26:20 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105090326.f493QKb07624@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I just bought some beans at the produce store called, 'maricopa beans." Have you ever heard of them? Are they called something else? I can't find out anything about them. From srwcrypto@aol.com Wed May 9 06:51:58 2001 From: srwcrypto@aol.com (srwcrypto@aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 May 2001 23:51:58 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105090651.f496pwb28223@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Is There any way to keep the Australian bottle tree from dropping popcorn (flowers) all over the place this time of year? From RkBetu@aol.com Wed May 9 16:17:56 2001 From: RkBetu@aol.com (RkBetu@aol.com) Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 12:17:56 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Ailanthus trees dying Message-ID: Thank you for your replies. I know my ailanthus are on the edge of their tolerance zone and have started watering more thoroughly. I have another question regarding them. How are they reproducing? None of mine have ever gotten seed pods - all males? I know they put up shoots from the roots, but I have dug out many that were not attached to any roots. Some are on the other side of the house, some 50+ feet away from the larger trees.It took the 2 original trees over 10 yrs before others started sprouting. Rock Betu From jcp5@mindspring.com Wed May 9 16:22:10 2001 From: jcp5@mindspring.com (jcp5@mindspring.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 09:22:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105091622.f49GMAb22849@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We have small hopping bugs by the hundreds in our grass lawn, they leave large brown areas in our lawn and then start in another spot on the Bermuda. The birds are loving them, but we don't. We don't want to use a pesticide that will harm either our pets or the birds. What should we do to eliminate this problem? From sjbass@qwest.net Wed May 9 16:59:48 2001 From: sjbass@qwest.net (Sue Bass) Date: Wed, 09 May 2001 09:59:48 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Summer vegetables References: <200105082107.f48L7Pb07275@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Message-ID: <3AF97784.96090F10@qwest.net> Karen: The following link will take you to a publication (AZ1005) that you can view online. It is a vegetable planting calendar for Maricopa county. http://ag.arizona.edu/maricopa/garden/html/pubs/pubs.htm#Vegetable In general, warm season vegetables are those that produce a fruit. Peppers, eggplant, etc. Sue Bass Master Gardener auntiekoo@home.com wrote: > Hello -- we are new Arizona vegetable gardeners! Also, we want to participate in the plant a row for the homeless program. What, if anything, can we grow in the summer? We've got partial sun and full sun areas. Thanks for any information, Karen > > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From rodgerrung@aol.com Wed May 9 21:54:57 2001 From: rodgerrung@aol.com (rodgerrung@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 14:54:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105092154.f49Lsvb25392@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I have a Lemon bush and Navel orange tree. The Lemon is on it's third year and the Navel is on second. The problem I have is they both have lots of blossoms and fruit sets on only to drop off, resulting in no fruit. Is there anything I should be doing? I fertilize and deep water. Also my Lemon bush has grown to about 8 feet, should I cut it back? I live in Gilbert and the house is built on previous farm land. Thank you, Rodger From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:44 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:44 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Young citrus not bearing fruit Message-ID: Roger everything is normal with your citrus trees, they do not typically bear fruit until they are 4 to 5 years old. The lemon tree grows very vigorously and may need to be pruned to keep it with in bounds, but this is not the time of year to prune it. One must be very careful when you do prune the lemon to not take off too much and expose either the trunk or the limbs to the sun for they will sunburn. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:49 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:49 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Bottletree litter Message-ID: <71.d3b86d1.282b27c5@aol.com> Sorry but flowers and seeds are natures way of reproducing and we don't know of a way of stopping that nor do we want to. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:51 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:51 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question: Oleander problem Message-ID: <57.15bed55d.282b27c7@aol.com> Tom, I suspect that you are not watering often enough which is one cause of yellow leaves. Check out this site on irrigation: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener From RodMcQ6@aol.com Wed May 9 23:07:53 2001 From: RodMcQ6@aol.com (RodMcQ6@aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 19:07:53 EDT Subject: [Arid_gardener] Re: [MG] Palo Brea Trouble Message-ID: <33.14afe450.282b27c9@aol.com> Dave, Sounds as if the tree is being watered adequately now, but did the home owner start watering soon enough. You might also investigate how the tree was watered when it was planted. The Palo Brea doesn't have many problems so that is why I would look to adequate irrigation. Are you aware that we have the whole Master Gardener Manual on line which is a marvelous resource. There is a great chapter on irrigation at: http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/garden/mg/arboriculture/watering.html From there you can pick up the index and browse through the whole book on line. Good luck. Rod McKusick Master Gardener and Arborist From cactusmaxson@compuserve.com Thu May 10 00:09:19 2001 From: cactusmaxson@compuserve.com (cactusmaxson@compuserve.com) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:09:19 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100009.f4A09Ib20265@Ag.Arizona.Edu> We planted corn in February and it is already tasseling at about 3 feet. What are we doing wrong? Also, often our lettuce tastes bitter, even when planted during winter, cooler months. Thank your for your help. From ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu Thu May 10 00:41:43 2001 From: ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu (ameyer@mail.mc.maricopa.edu) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 17:41:43 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100041.f4A0fhb24218@Ag.Arizona.Edu> Can you tell me where I can obtain Uzbek melon seeds? A few years back, Smitty's markets carried the melons for two years running, but I haven't seen them since, and I suspect that our climate ought to be suitable for Central Asian crops. Many thanks for your help, Allen Meyer From vochopz@prodigy.net Thu May 10 01:14:05 2001 From: vochopz@prodigy.net (vochopz@prodigy.net) Date: Wed, 9 May 2001 18:14:05 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Arid_gardener] Question from Home-Hort WWW page Message-ID: <200105100114.f4A1E5b27586@Ag.Arizona.Edu> I own a yucca strata, is planted in a pot. There is some browning ocurring throughout the plant. It is easy to see if compared with the other yucca stratas next to it. Drainage is good, no pest have been seen, and some water is added every so often. Please help me with it, or call me at (602) 763-6807. I greatly appreciate your cooperation. PACO From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 13:33:50 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 06:33:50 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] A couple oddities. References: <3AF76F89.254C7875@AuroraNow.org> Message-ID: <3AFA98BE.15D1B922@qwest.net> Sherryl, When I've experienced this phenomenon before, also on aloes that looked like tigers [don't know, I often scrounge tossed out plants in the alleys], it didn't end up being a pup, just a few leaves that eventually became somewhat scraggly. I tossed the whole stalk out after bloom and the leaves never did establish themselves like pups at the base of the plant. Linda Sherryl Stalinski wrote: > Hi all, > I have the most interesting thing. On one of my aloes (not sure of > variety--very similar to tiger aloe, but I'm not sure that's what it > is), like right in the middle of the flower stem, a new baby aloe > started growing. I've seen pups sprout in the ground around the base > (mine usually give me 4-5 new pups each every spring), but this > mid-flower-stem baby is a new one on me?! What the heck do I do with it > since it's attached to the flower stem and not a root runner? It has 4-5 > small (1/2-1") leaf pads growing right out of a bend in the flower stem. > > Also, I have tiny white bugs on several of my brittlebush. I've *never* > seen these (or any natives, really) bothered by bugs. I can't really > tell if they're doing any harm so I'm not sure if I should worry (just > some tiny residue that I'm assuming is some sort of bug doo-doo). > > -- > Sherryl Stalinski > Aurora Now Foundation -- http://www.auroranow.org > For the research, education and celebration of human and ecological > community. > > Office: 1981 N San Joaquin, Tucson AZ 85743 || (520) 578-2801 > ===================================================== > "I became convinced that we're here for each other. " > --R. Buckminster Fuller > _______________________________________________ > Arid_gardener mailing list > Arid_gardener@Ag.Arizona.Edu > http://Ag.Arizona.Edu/mailman/listinfo/arid_gardener From lindaguy@qwest.net Thu May 10 13:40:17 2001 From: lindaguy@qwest.net (Linda Guy) Date: Thu, 10 May 2001 06:40:17 -0700 Subject: [Arid_gardener] Information on aquatic plants References: <00d301c0d8ee$477f1220$1ec30e3f@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <3AFA9A41.D6D685BB@qwest.net> --------------3A544BA80BCC577B2BF8A19A Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am partial to Sylvia DeVisme who has been in the business longer than even she cares to remember. She lives in the neighborhood behind the old Tower Plaza in East Phoenix, and her PN is 602/273-1805. Her business, the Lily Pond, is run out of her home [appts only] and she has been there so long the city grandfathered her in under the zoning laws.... Linda Guy, Master Gardener jkasko wrote: > We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland plants for our area > (Phoenix). We have plant names but don't have the particulars on > them. Does anyone know of any good resources (book titles, people, > etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, propagation, > etc.? Thanks for any info. joanne kasko --------------3A544BA80BCC577B2BF8A19A Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I am partial to Sylvia DeVisme who has been in the business longer than even she cares to remember. She lives in the neighborhood behind the old Tower Plaza in East Phoenix, and her PN is 602/273-1805. Her business, the Lily Pond, is run out of her home [appts only] and she has been there so long the city grandfathered her in under the zoning laws....

Linda Guy,
Master Gardener

jkasko wrote:

We are looking for information on aquatic/wetland plants for our area (Phoenix). We have plant names but don't have the particulars on them. Does anyone know of any good resources (book titles, people, etc.) where I could research about growth patterns, propagation, etc.? Thanks for any info. joanne kasko

Next would be to use an insecticidal soap that most nurseries carry. Follow label's instructions.

For identification, check out the chapter on 'bugs' in the online Master Gardener Manual. http://ag.arizona.edu./pubs/garden/mg/

I'm sorry, I don't know the growth habit of the plant and do not know why you experience different shapes. Are there different light exposures or watering sources?

Linda

choward wrote:

I have 6 golden arborvitaes & 2 of them are turning brown, when I put a white piece of paper under them & shake them , there is hundreds of tiny things crawling on the paper. What do you suggest I do for them? Also I bought all 6 of them at one time, last april, one of them is rounding off, the others are pointing, are there different shapes in these? Thanks C. Howard